Burgundy 2009 en primeur - top wines - Chablis

Many seem very happy with 2009 (writes Rosemary George MW), but it does lack acidity compared to 2008. As Didier Séguier, the talented winemaker at Domaine William Fèvre, explained, there had been a bit of millerandage in 2009, thanks to cool weather at flowering, so yields were lower than average, and the harvest was relatively early following a warm summer. It was a question of picking early to retain acidity. The grapes were very healthy and unaffected by rot or rain, and a couple of summer storms had provided water at the right moment. Amongst the full range of William Fèvre, Vaulorent ler Cru was the star to my mind. At Domaine Simonnet-Febvre, winemaker Archimbaud approach has gradually evolved towards less oak ageing and longer time in vat and barrel before bottling. The premiers crus are aged in vat alone. Flint Wines made available a pair of Chablis from Domaine Bernard Defaix; Howard Ripley, a selection of Chablis from Jean-Paul Droin, Louis Michel and more William Fèvre, while Domaine Vincent Dampt came courtesy of Corney & Barrow.Chablis. At Justerini & Brooks, I caught up with domaines Laurent Tribut and Moreau-Naudet (J&B will have Vincent Dauvissat in due course). Brother-in-law and ‘pupil’ of Vincent Dauvissat, Laurent Tribut has turned out finely crafted wines with just the right amount of oak élevage. Then on to Lea & Sandeman who were showing Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin, but who will also have Moreau-Naudet and Denis Pommier.

Wine name Producer Country Region Vintage

Domaine William Fevre, Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru

Ste du Vignoble William Fevre France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Laroche, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru

Domaine Laroche [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Long-Depaquit, Moutonne, Chablis Grand Cru

Domaine Long-Depaquit [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Jean Collet & Fils, Valmur, Chablis Grand Cru

Domaine Jean Collet et Fils [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Gerard Tremblay, Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru

Gerard Tremblay [Dom des Iles/Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine William Fevre, Vaulorent, Chablis 1er Cru

Ste du Vignoble William Fevre France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Simonnet-Febvre, Montmains, Chablis 1er Cru

Simonnet-Febvre [Chablis/Louis Latour] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Bernard Defaix, Chablis

Domaine Bernard Defaix [Milly-Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Louis Michel, Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru

Louis Michel et Fils [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Jean-Paul Droin, Vaillons, Chablis 1er Cru

Jean-Paul Droin [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Vincent Dampt, Cote de Lechet, Chablis 1er Cru

N/A France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Laurent Tribut, Chablis

Domaine Laurent Tribut [Poinchy] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Laurent Tribut, Montmains, Chablis 1er Cru

Domaine Laurent Tribut [Poinchy] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, les Forets, Chablis 1er Cru

Moreau-Naudet et Fils [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Les Pargues, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis

Moreau-Naudet et Fils [Chablis] France Burgundy 2009

Domaine Adhemar et Francis Boudin, Fourchaume, Chablis 1er Cru

N/A France Burgundy 2009