Tahbilk Vertical: Museum Tasting - 1927 Vines Marsanne
A second white flight of five vintages (2002 through to 1998) of Tahbilk's '1927 Vines' Marsanne. Only 300 cases of this wine are made each year and it's released as a 10-year-old because, as Tahbilk winemaker Alister Purbrick puts it, 'it takes that long to get anything interesting out of it'. The oldest wine in the flight, the pale gold 1998, had a host of aromas - acacia, quince, honey, nut and citrus - and a round opulent structure, with mineral backbone, that opened up massively in the glass. In contrast, the 2000 was tightly closed, undeveloped, with lemon pip flavours and flint on the finish, while the bone-dry 2001 was equally restrained but long and beautiful without a hint of flint. My favourites: the 2002 and 1999.