Tahbilk Vertical: Museum Tasting - Marsanne
If laying down is your thing, these are certainly some of the best value whites out there today. I can't think of any other wine at the entry-level Marsanne's price point that offers such value for longevity. The wines matured over the course of the seven vintages - 2009, 2007, 2002, 1992, 1982, 1979 and 1973 - transforming from pale and unyielding with citrus, crisp, flinty notes (notably the 2007; the 2009 was riper, juicier) into smoky, nutty tipples that expanded progressively both in texture and complexity, becoming oily, golden wines of tobacco leaf and oak-like vanilla, rather like classic Hunter Valley Semillon styles after
10 years in the bottle. It's true that the 1973, with its Madeira-like aromas, was showing signs of oxidisation but it was by no means past it, and the riper 1979 was still long and fresh, more so indeed than the riper, warmer vintage 1992. The 1982 and 2002 to my mind stood out.