Steven Spurrier's Christmas cellar vintage guide

Rhône

Both north and south have gained many followers and while prices from top estates have rocketed, the reds from both regions still offer great value.

From the 1990s, 1995 is the star, with ‘98 from the south and ‘99 from the north both superb now. 2000 is full of charm, if lighter, and 2001 is best in Côte- Rôtie and Cornas.

2002 was rained off and the heat of 2003 was too much for the region, while 2004 is showing well – the best of this poor trio. 2005 is a good choice in the south, thanks to ripe fruit and refreshing tannins, but is still backward in the north.

2006, as in Bordeaux, is a better version of 2004, elegantly attractive now, while the explosively fruity (and high alcohol) 2007 southern wines can be broached, the northern wines kept.

2008 (unremarked at the time) is one to follow for mid-term drinking. Chez Spurrier, it will be Clos des Papes Châteauneuf 1998 with the turkey.