Steven Spurrier's Christmas cellar vintage guide: Burgundy

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Fiona Beckett’s tasting (in the January 2012 Decanter issue) came up with white Burgundy as the best match for Christmas turkey. I tend to cellar white Burgundies, except for the Mâconnais, and am now finishing my 2004 Chablis (mostly 1er cru), moving on to 2005/6/7 next year.

From the Côte de Beaune: the 2002 whites are still lovely; 2004 very expressive; 2005 riper and broader; 2006 seductively ready; 2007 with more depth; 2008 tighter and more elegant, not ready yet.

For reds: 1990 and 1995 are wonderfully mature; 1996 never, for me, lost its leanness; 1997 (supple, fruity), 1998 (firm structure), 1999 (super classic) represent a classy trio; 2000 is still holding up; 2001 nicely concentrated; 2002 a ripe vintage and good now; the non-acidified 2003s are wonderful; 2004 lacks flesh; 2005 needs time; and 2006 and 2007 are opening up well.

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