Clare Valley, South Australia
Jeffrey Grosset (pictured) is Australia’s Mr Riesling. This fastidious grapegrower and winemaker produces two sensational dry Clare Valley Rieslings each year, a fuller Watervale wine now labelled Springvale – from calcareous soil – and the more nervy Polish Hill, grown on the slate soils of the higher-altitude Polish Hill River sub-region. In 2010 these were joined by a wine labelled Off-Dry, which is barely off-dry and crafted in the same restrained, refined, delicate style as the other two. It’s destined to be another classic. Occasionally, in suitable seasons such as 2011, there’s a rivetingly powerful Noble Riesling made from botrytised grapes. Grosset’s Piccadilly is a superbly taut, ageworthy Chardonnay from that Adelaide Hills locality, and his Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend deftly combines Clare Semillon with Adelaide Hills Sauvignon. Mesh, of course, is his superb Eden Valley adventure, jointly produced with Yalumba..
Grosset, Off-Dry Riesling 2011
Fresh, fragrant, young-wine aroma of floral notes and green apples. A pristine wine, very delicate and fragrant in the mouth, with the barest minimum of sweetness. Fine and long, taut and balanced; a lovely wine with a big future.18.5pts/20
Price: £17.30–£20 Noel Young, Selfridges, Slurp, Swig, Vineking