There’s a stretch of road I always dread when I’m on my way to Rioja from Castilla y León.

As the highway approaches Burgos, hundreds of trucks snake their way from the south of Spain towards the Basque Country, heading to the north-coast port of Bilbao.

Weaving in and out of this endless queue is exhausting. But exit 57 towards Pancorbo offers much welcome relief. The N232 meanders through the province of Burgos before giving way to La Rioja as the valley sweeps into view.

The road is quiet and gently winds its way eastwards, in the shadow of the rocky Cantabrian mountains to the north and the Sierra de la Demanda in the south.

In spring, a patchwork of green and yellow covers the valley floor as bud burst awakens the vines and vibrant rapeseed flowers come to life, and in autumn the fiery red and amber of the vine leaves form a kaleidoscope of colour.

It’s a majestic landscape, rooted in permanence yet alive with renewal.

Given its centuries of viticultural heritage, Rioja presents a somewhat surprising sense of dynamism and energy rarely found in the world’s most traditional regions.

A new wave of small growers and a younger generation are making vineyard-focused wines; indeed, a tasting in March in Madrid by VIR (Viticultores Independientes de Rioja) offered a diverse and fascinating overview of these producers.

Many of these wines fall outside the traditional classification system (Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva), many simply defaulting to the catch-all Genérico designation and embracing the new geography-based Rioja classification pyramid.

Yet in the broader market, both domestically and internationally, it’s often the larger, well-established or historic Rioja houses through which most consumers get to know Rioja.

Historic wineries such as Marqués de Murrieta, CVNE and Marqués de Riscal boast histories that date back well over 100 years.

In the 1980s, Roda became a new member of the band of bodegas in the old Barrio de la Estación in Haro and has helped build brand Rioja alongside its neighbours La Rioja Alta and Muga.

Staying relevant

So how do you adapt to changing tastes and a shifting wine scene?

Many wines have already achieved a high level of success through recognisable styles and critical acclaim.

For Victor Urrutia, owner and CEO of CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España), the key is remaining relevant.

‘For us, it means perfecting the old, for instance our Gran Reservas, and inventing the new,’ he explains. ‘It sounds dramatic but it is quiet work, interpreting our vineyards as faithfully as possible, and through a different lens. That is how Contino got started 50 years ago as Rioja’s first single vineyard.’

And what is today’s fresh, modern interpretation of those vineyards?

Contino, Don Vicente is a single-varietal wine made from a single plot of Mazuelo. It’s one of only a few wines in Rioja made solely from this variety, which producers are finding to be well suited to the changing climate.

As a late-ripening grape that retains acidity and is quite sturdy in the face of drought, Mazuelo offers potential beyond its classic blending capabilities.

Don Vicente 2021 is only the fourth vintage released and offers something surprising under the reassuring umbrella of the Contino brand.

‘So in effect,’ says Urrieta, ‘we side-step the issue of changing a well-established reference.’

It’s a similar story for Torre de Oña, part of the group of wineries belonging to La Rioja Alta, which has now produced two vintages (2021 and 2022) of El Camino, a refreshing, elegant wine with serious poise and a chalky texture from parcels in Elvillar, far removed from the very recognisable, classically oaked styles of Viña Ardanza 890 and 904 from La Rioja Alta’s iconic range.

‘For a winery like La Rioja Alta, to innovate is not a challenge but a necessity,’ says head winemaker Julio Saénz. ‘To keep defending a style means you have to adapt to new situations like climate change. In the case of El Camino, the vineyard determined the style.'

Rooted in change

For Luis Hurtado de Amézaga (pictured, above), technical director of Marqués de Riscal and sixth-generation of the bodega’s founding family, the future of his winery and the region lies in its soils.

Founded in 1858, the winery has a storied tradition of producing fine wines and impressive stocks of old vintages in its underground cellars, but for Hurtado the key to the future lies in its vineyards: ‘Only a living soil is capable of reflecting the personality of the terroir in the wines and enhancing their varietal character.’

Hurtado has overhauled the winery’s viticultural practices with a ban on herbicides, a new regime of cover crops, organic compost and a keyline planting system to combat erosion and improve access to water on both their own terraces and those of their partner suppliers.

‘It’s all about improving the biodiversity and microbiology of the soils,’ he explains. ‘In this way, old vines can be maintained for much longer with viable yields and the ability to produce high-quality wines.’

A paler shade of Rioja

Developments in the vineyards also extend to a shift in colour.

Whites have always been planted in Rioja, often playing an important role in old, co-planted vineyards (in which different varieties grow beside each other) exploited by some of the most historic wineries.

But the success of Rioja’s reds in export markets saw the area of white vineyards decline dramatically: in 1985, there were 9,094ha of white vineyards; by 2005, just 4,645ha remained.

That year, the Rioja consejo regulador (‘regulatory board’) authorised the planting of new white vines and now there are about 6,000ha producing some of Spain’s most thrilling white wines.

One of Rioja’s most recognisable estates, Bodegas Muga introduced a new white into its portfolio with the 2018 Flor de Muga Reserva Blanco. Now in its fifth release, it’s a modern approach to an oak-aged white that blends Viura with Garnacha Blanca and Maturana Blanca.

Fruit-focused, the wine reflects a wider trend in the region towards serious whites that combine classic cues with a contemporary focus on freshness.

At the forefront of this movement was another foundational bodega of the Barrio de la Estación, Gómez Cruzado (founded in 1886), which released its first vintage of Montes Obarenes in 2013.

The 2021 vintage is a blend of Viura with Tempranillo Blanco, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca and Calagraño. It continues to be one of the most characterful white wines of Rioja.

Another Haro winery, Bodegas Roda, has also introduced a white wine to its range – Roda I Blanco – launched in 2022 with the 2019 vintage.

But it has also joined a growing number of producers championing serious, ageworthy rosés with the debut this year of Roda, Perdigón Reserva Rosado 2023 (see recommendations, below), a single-vineyard wine made from Tempranillo and Garnacha, and aged in French oak.

Beyond barrels

Oak has always been an important part of Rioja’s wines and continues to be the ageing vessel of choice, but the reliance on wood as the driving characteristic of the wines has certainly diminished.

Marqués de Murrieta is one of Rioja’s oldest and most prestigious wineries, so even its most subtle stylistic shifts merit scrutiny.

The mainstay of the estate, the red Reserva is more elegant and finer in its current incarnation than ever before.

The completion of the new winery in 2021 has allowed for a more precise and careful treatment of individual parcels, including fermentation in concrete and ageing in a custom-built barrel room designed for detailed and delicate evolution.

The move to a prettier and more refined style is perhaps even more noticeable in the Dalmau cuvée, which hasn’t lost any of its concentration but now offers supple tannins and an inherent minerality that points to its freshness and lighter touch.

The new classics

So, who is fanning these winds of change? Are smaller growers and modern wineries shaping future trends or are historic producers with established reputations leading the innovation race? Perhaps the answer is yes and yes!

There’s energy, experimentation and a sense of renewal across the whole region.

But it’s certainly important that these prestigious, world-renowned wineries are adapting and challenging norms – they have the trust of their customers and often the means to market these changes.

Regions evolve and adapt to changing circumstances.

‘To maintain a style doesn’t mean always doing the same thing,’ explains Julio Saénz. ‘It’s one thing to be resistant to change, but another to maintain a style.’

As he acutely observes: ‘All the innovation that we are undertaking today in La Rioja Alta – in 10 years it will be seen as tradition.’

The new, modern wines of today will surely become the classics of tomorrow.

Classic Rioja producers shaping the future: Willard’s pick of six

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Humans have a strange predilection for new, young, unblemished things.

In viticulture, economics tends to reward a focus on productivity and efficiency. Visually, this is easy to recognise: uniform rows, immaculate canopies and vines farmed for quick returns.

‘A young vineyard reminds me of an army, where everyone looks the same, trained for a mission,’ says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking at Turley Wine Cellars and the winemaker behind his own label, Sandlands, in California, two brands with an explicit focus on historic vineyards.

In a recent conversation with Passalacqua, he reached for a copy of Scottish-American naturalist and writer John Muir’s My First Summer in the Sierra, where Muir writes about his observations on pines and how, while young trees are ‘very straight and regular in form,’ by 50 to 100 years they ‘begin to acquire individuality, so that no two are alike in their prime or old age.’

Old vines, Passalacqua says, do the same. Each grows to express something different from where it is planted, which, among other reasons, is what makes old vines matter and the very thing modern winegrowing was built to erase.

‘That’s the difference between agriculture and agribusiness,’ he says.

Not just the romance

The case for old vines isn't only about romance. Science is slowly supporting the claim that they can produce higher-quality wines with greater aromatic complexity and phenolic structure.

In the United States, old vines are also a living record of American wine history: the field blends planted by immigrants; the vines that survived phylloxera and Prohibition; the foundational plantings that helped establish whole regions.

Still, there’s no legal definition of ‘old vine’ in the US. The Historic Vineyard Society draws its line at 50 years for currently producing California vineyards, with at least one-third of productive vines traceable to the original planting.

The International Organisation of Vine and Wine defines an old grapevine as at least 35 years old. Either way, there isn't much left – America has only a thin and shrinking stock of truly old vineyards, and almost nothing protecting them beyond the goodwill, stubbornness and love of their growers.

Passalacqua sees old vines as a kind of measuring stick. ‘One of the important factors of old vines is they're very educational,’ he says.

‘There's something the farmers and winemakers can learn from them that you might not learn as easily from young vines.’

He also argues that much of the winemaking that exploded in the 1990s in America was built to meet a specific market demand rather than to explore terroir, and that mindset still lingers in much of the industry.

‘Modern winemakers and modern wine drinkers know what they want it to taste like,’ he says.

‘They're not embracing the character of the site. But with old vines, it's really hard not to.’

Not automatically better, but...

In a different conversation, Shauna Rosenblum, winemaker at Ridge Vineyards' Lytton Springs estate, where vines are over a century old, says old vines have ‘soul.’

It isn't only poetry. If you take Ridge’s old Zinfandel vines, interplanted with Petite Sirah, Carignane, Mataro and other varieties, the wines have a character that comes not from a single grape or uniform ripeness but from the tension of a historic field blend.

Rosenblum also notes the resilience older vines can develop. At Ridge, Rosenblum has watched century-old vines test positive for a disease like red blotch and simply carry on – ripening, producing – while the same virus forces young vines out of the ground.

'When you taste younger vines planted in the '90s next to old vines from 1901, there's more to it,' she says.

The vines that have come through something, in her opinion, are the more interesting ones, like people shaped by hardship and 'in it for the long run.'

Old vines are not automatically better, but time can offer something you can't manufacture: identity. And that happens to be what a lot of younger drinkers now say they want – specificity, unusual grapes, a wine with a story rather than a target flavour.

‘When you first begin your wine journey, do you care that you're drinking old vines?’ asks Rosenblum. ‘Maybe not, but then you taste the difference.’

A growing number of American winemakers are betting their reputations on old vineyards.

Labels like Bedrock, Desire Lines and Sandlands have built devoted followings, producing serious wines from grapes most drinkers couldn't name a decade ago.

They're not only preserving old vines but also perhaps teaching a generation to look beyond famous varieties and taste what old vines offer.

The eight wines below offer an entry point into dynamic and delicious bottles from old-vine vineyards in California, where most of America's old-vine acreage is planted.

Eight US wines from old vines

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With the Round of 32 matches all finished up, we're getting into the dark heart of the knockouts now as teams compete for a place in the quarter-finals and a chance at a dash to the championship game itself.

France and England have both secured their place in the quarters; France with a rough and tumble match against a rather malicious Paraguayan side, and England with a gloriously action-packed match against Mexico in the dreaded Azteca cauldron in the early hours of Monday morning.

In action this week we have a wine nation super-smash as Spain and Portugal go head-to-head, the USA face off against Belgium, Argentina survived a Cape Verde scare to take on Egypt, and Switzerland will take their chances against Colombia.

We've also said goodbye to two more of the winemaking nation teams we've been tracking:

Australia: A spirited performance against Egypt that took them all the way to extra time and the heartbreak of a penalty shootout.

Canada: The first of the host nations to fall. They played a last 16 spirited game against Morocco and were unlucky not to score before the North Africans hammered home three goals late in the match for a slightly unfair final score.

And if you feel the need for some... actual football analysis during this World Cup, do check in on our friends and colleagues over at FourFourTwo for all their updates and coverage.

Ines: Spain & Portugal

Spain vs Portugal: Ok, here we go. Now we get a glimpse of how La Roja can make it to the final.

In its first knock out-stage match, Spain won, decisively and clinically, against a very tame Austria, thus remaining – along with Mexico – the only team yet to concede any goals in this World Cup.

Next up is its Iberian neighbour, and historical rival.

Portugal beat Croatia in a rather painful manner, and more than a few contested referee decisions.

Its over-reliance on Cristiano Ronaldo is starting to show… But we’ve seen Portugal’s back benchers surprise before – in football as in wine!

Just look at this gorgeous oak-fermented and aged Arinto from the very underestimated Tejo region, produced by big-hearted maverick Hugo Mendes. Spain beware.

Spain has its own cats in the hat though. Have you ever tasted Escursac, a quasi-forgotten variety indigenous to Mallorca?

Soca-Rel’s chillable iteration is a good place to start.

It’s time to try it all and make it to the quarter-finals!

Mark: USA & Switzerland

USA (vs Belgium): Belgium somehow live to fight another day following their last-minute heroics (or rather drawing a most fortuitous get-out-of-jail-free card) against Senegal.

They’ll have to ramp it up against a US team that has found its groove, and regained its top scorer, Folarin Balogun – after apparent political pressure from the White House.

But let's focus on a wine and food pairing we can all get behind.

Moules-frites is a Belgian national treasure, and when it comes to a wine that can shine alongside glorious, garlic-infused mussels and cut through mayonnaise-dipped frites, the 2024 Flora Abeille, Albariño from Lodi should do the trick.

Available for £15 at Majestic, it garnered an admirable 89 points at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards, where the judges remarked: ‘Delicate nose of restrained pear and peaches, slightly creamy and rounded acidity.’

Switzerland (vs Colombia): In the previous round, Switzerland comfortably kept a meek Algeria at arm’s length. Next up is a Latin dance with Colombia.

Vancouver plays host, a city that has become a home from home for the Swiss, so let’s go full bore and dust off the fondue set. Nothing overly complex is necessary, although acidity is a pre-requisite to cut through the wonderfully fatty, unctuous cheeses.

Chasselas is an obvious go-to, although Riesling would prove a fine substitute, as would Räuschling, should you be able to track one down.

Once wildly popular and widely planted, Räuschling – a cross between Gouais and Savagnin – suffered a pronounced fall from grace, and is now only found in German-speaking areas of Switzerland, such as St-Gallen, from where hails the 2023 Weingut Höcklistein, Äfenrain Räuschling.

A Gold medal winner at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards, our suitably impressed judges remarked: ‘An untamed spectrum of yellow fruit, mesmerising basil and tarragon fragrance. Lightly textured with a fine seam of acidity perpetuating the long finish.’

Julie: Argentina

Argentina (vs Egypt): Argentina made a clean sweep through Group J with three wins, before edging out Cape Verde 3-2 in extra time during the Round of 32.

Now the reigning champions are heavily favoured to beat Egypt’s Pharaohs in the Round of 16, though with star players Lionel Messi and Mo Salah on the field in Atlanta Stadium, this will very much be a match worth watching.

Whether you’re taking comfort in Egypt's carb-loaded national dish of koshary, with rice, lentils and chick peas, or keeping things simple with a signature Argentine steak, go for the food-friendly Kaiken Disobedience by Francis Mallman 2021, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, created in association with Argentina's star chef.

An easy-drinking, soft and savoury red – with enough structure for the table – it delivers juicy black fruit laced with notes of violets, sage and thyme.

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Get me a glass of Malbec.’ ‘Add a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to the shopping list.’ ‘I love a good Cabernet.’

Grape varieties have become shorthand for the wines we feel like drinking, sometimes not really giving much thought to their origin or producer.

Sure, the Malbec will be from Argentina. The Sauvignon Blanc? Maybe from Chile – or New Zealand, or the Loire.

The ubiquity of varietal-labelled wines has created an easy way to communicate with consumers. At the same time, however, it has also hindered an engagement with the beautiful, sometimes messy, reality of the vines and people behind them.

This is particularly true in South America, where the development of viticulture is woven into the complex narrative of colonisation.

Single-varietal wines stood for a sense of modernity that seemed to overcome a fractured, contentious past. But things have been rapidly changing in the last decade, as both viticultural and geopolitical heritages are reassessed.

‘South America, and Argentina in particular, followed the Californian [variety-based], rather than the European [origin-based] model, of marketing wines,’ explains 2024 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient Susana Balbo, who, in addition to leading her successful winery, served three terms as president of Wines of Argentina between 2006 and 2016.

‘When we were looking at how to raise our profile in export markets, we did a number of studies and that was the direction that was chosen. In many ways it worked; Argentinian Malbec became a success all over the world. But now we need to overcome that success. We were very comfortable [with the varietal focus] for 20 years, but luckily we’re being forced out of our comfort zone.’

Injecting creativity

Overcoming that success, Balbo and others argue, means engaging with the nuances of terroir and the diversity of grape varieties that make the South American landscape and history both diverse and unique.

Signs of this change in perspective are palpable and have yielded South America’s ‘white wine revolution’ and ‘Criolla revival’. Underpinning these ‘movements’ is a slow but sure shift from single-varietal wines to blends – from prescriptive, technical winemaking to a creative, personal response to terroir.

‘Blends force you to think and speak about wine differently,’ continues Balbo. ‘They inherently tell stories and individual perspectives, rather than “packaged” messages about grape varieties. This is particularly important because we need to champion our heritage – now more than ever.’

Balbo has put this philosophy into practice. As the creator of South America’s first fine white blend based on the Criolla variety Torrontés (her Signature White Blend), she tapped into and, in a way, catalysed many of the ongoing changes.

Blends also bring to the forefront the incredible wealth of old vineyards that South America is home to, and the diverse genetic material that they contain.

Sisters Laura and Adrianna Catena have been fierce advocates for this stock of massal selections (vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing vine stocks), which they argue calls into question the notions of Old versus New World that structure orthodox wine discourses.

‘People often think of Europe as the classical source of old grapes, and therefore fine wine,’ says Laura Catena.

‘Without knowing that in fact most of Europe’s vineyards are mono-clonal, relatively new plantings. Meanwhile, in South America we have these incredible, truly old and in many cases ungrafted, massal selections.’

The sisters argue that not only does this bring a different kind of complexity to the wines, but it also lends them a symbolic value that goes well beyond what’s in the glass.

They echo Balbo’s view that heterogeneity forces a different way of talking and engaging with wine, focused on narrative rather than labels.

From California to Bordeaux

In counterpoint to the varietal focus that informed export-growth strategies, as South America’s producers began to toy with the idea of fine wine during the 1990s, Bordeaux was undoubtedly the role model.

Star consultants such as the late Michel Rolland, Paul Hobbs and Alberto Antonini were brought in to produce Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends in Chile and Argentina, only to be surprised by the allure of extreme terroirs that yielded particular expressions of the classical varieties.

If some (Rolland, for example) remained faithful to a signature framework, most winemakers were taken in by the idiosyncrasies of the South American landscapes, laying the groundwork for truly South American classics such as Seña and Nicolás Catena Zapata.

The emergence of a new generation of extremely talented and globally well-travelled local winemakers only helped these wines to evolve into a character of their own, rather than being derivative, Bordeaux-informed iterations.

This also meant, almost inevitably, that Cabernet’s protagonism began to be questioned, not least because varieties such as Tannat and Carmenère found such a strong – and arguably more alluring and nuanced – character away from French climes.

Again, their interpretation has changed significantly over the past few years, increasingly attuned to place and to the synergetic potential of blending.

Santiago Deicas, third generation at the helm of his family' eponymous Uruguayan winery, explains the evolution through two Tannat-based blends produced by Deicas.

‘Preludio [Gran Vino de Corte] was born from my father’s urge to produce a fine, classical, Bordeaux-inspired blend,’ he says.

‘With [Extreme Vineyards] Subsuelo Corte Unico, I really want to convey the essence of our vineyards.’

Reclaiming Malbec

The way in which Deicas discusses his wines is symptomatic of the overall change of mindset to which Balbo alluded.

‘Blends change the tone of the conversation,’ Balbo says. ‘They evoke an identity and individual expression. They challenge [the consumer], while creating possibilities and more intrigue. There’s no script. If you can’t talk about the Malbec or the Tannat or the Chardonnay, you’re forced to talk about your feelings and perception.’

This is true for consumers as much as for producers, whose terroir and blending explorations have actually allowed for a better understanding of each variety – not least the mighty, and so often misunderstood, Malbec, which is in many ways being rediscovered through the lenses of terroir on the one hand and stylistic plasticity on the other.

The latter has seen producers experiment with fermentation vessels, ageing regimes and maceration times, focusing less on extraction and power, and instead seeking more purity, focus and drinkability.

In the pursuit of balance, the genetic diversity of old massal selections has proven an invaluable asset, ultimately highlighting the potential of blending – either in the vineyard or in the cellar.

This is arguably allowing for Malbec to be reclaimed as a variety rather than a ‘brand’.

Singular identities

‘The history of South American wine is a history of blends,’ says Jimena López, head winemaker at Bodega Andeluna, Mendoza.

‘It’s the story of settlers and of the different grapes they brought with them.’

It’s also the history of serendipitous crossings, new varieties and pioneering experimentation – creativity led by necessity and opportunity.

Among the most dramatic contributions to the reappreciation of old vineyards and overlooked terroirs has been the revival of Criolla varieties.

This family of grapes encompasses both those initially brought by Spanish settlers (of which País/ Listán Negro/ Criolla Chica and different Moscatels are perhaps the most important) and the different crossings that have originated in South American soil.

Among the latter are Criolla Grande and Torrontés, two very different crossings of País and Moscatel of Alejandría.

Known as ‘the queen of Torrontés’, Balbo has long championed the variety – which is the main component in her Signature White Blend.

‘Finally, we’re seeing these varieties for what they truly are and for all the beautiful wines they can make,’ she says.

She’s currently planting Torrontés on high-elevation sites in the heart of Gualtallary – mirroring what’s being done with Malbec in response to climate change – determined to give it equal, noble standing in the most privileged terroirs.

Playing the field

Across Argentina and Chile, producers are also tapping into old field blends. Once seen as a source of lesser-quality, natural-leaning wines, they are now considered a treasure trove in which nuance and complexity are effortlessly achieved while at the same time facilitating conversations about history, heritage and identity.

As is often the case in South America, contradiction lies at the heart of the ongoing vinous transformation.

It’s both puzzling and fascinating that to truly reclaim its viticultural identity, the continent is having to look back at its colonial past and acknowledge how, in trying to distance itself from it, it promoted a different kind of conquest (the California- and Bordeaux-inspired models) that at the same time built and eroded the continent’s modern viticultural history.

Above all, however, Balbo says that these changes of focus should make wine more fun, for consumers and producers alike.

‘Blending is the art of true expression and creativity in oenology,’ she says. ‘There’s such pleasure in the [blending] exercise.’

Meanwhile, the resulting wines are more dynamic, living entities in which different players playfully fight for centre stage.

‘As the wine evolves – in the glass and in the bottle – different elements and varieties reveal themselves. You never get bored and are often surprised.’

Untangling history

South America is, in its very essence, a continent of mixtures and unexpected encounters, of radically different traditions meeting, clashing and eventually yielding something new, unexpected and at the same time ancestral.

It is, and always has been, a place of intense, at times chaotic but always fascinating, creative energy, catalysed by extreme landscapes and ardent feelings. Its viticultural heritage is no different.

Each of the blends featured here untangles a bit of winemaking history. Meanwhile, Balbo is already working on a new white blend.

‘White blends are the next step of this revolution,’ she says. But which of the many revolutions is she referring to?

Maybe they’re all part of a single quest: claiming the beautiful, creole soul of South America’s fine wines.

South American blends

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Tomioka in Fukushima is unlikely to appear on most travellers’ Japan itineraries, but the winemakers behind Tomioka Winery hope that, within a generation or two, it will be.

Fifteen years ago, this coastal town was devastated by the tsunami that followed the Great East Japan Earthquake and was entirely evacuated after the subsequent nuclear disaster at Fukushima Daiichi, just five kilometres away.

A curious spot for a vineyard, but Tomioka Winery’s founder and president, Shubun Endo, is determined to build the foundations for a more prosperous future for the next generations.

His ambition to start a winery in Tomioka predated 2011, catalysed by his world travels and a growing appreciation for wine culture. The disaster only strengthened his resolve.

‘After the earthquake, I came to feel even more strongly about the importance of the region’s revitalisation, and my desire to establish wine as a permanent part of the community grew,’ he says.

‘This region has sea, mountains, and rivers, each with its own culinary potential. I believed wine could serve as the link connecting them all.’

The journey to opening Tomioka Winery hasn’t been smooth. ‘As we moved forward with preparations, we spoke with and consulted Tomioka Town Hall staff, residents, acquaintances, and friends about making wine in Tomioka. However, most people were sceptical.

'We were constantly bombarded with reasons why it couldn’t be done. “Grapes won’t grow near the ocean,” people said. Others doubted anyone would drink wine made on land associated with radiation contamination.’

Facing the challenges

Despite the challenges ahead, Endo felt a sense of duty to push ahead.

His family is prominent in Tomioka, with 300 years of history in the town. His father was serving as mayor during the disaster on 11th March 2011 and led the town’s evacuation. These roots gave Endo a sense of purpose to rebuild the town.

‘I never once considered the option of not returning. I’d heard since I was a child that my Endo family ancestors spared no effort for the sake of the community, and that I had inherited that spirit,’ he says.

‘This compound disaster – a combination of natural disasters like the earthquake and tsunami with a nuclear accident – was something no country in the world had ever experienced. It was an extremely difficult mission, but it felt like destiny to me. The example set by my late father, who risked his life to protect the townspeople, was a major factor.’

The winery’s location, right by the Tomioka Station, seemed appropriate; it’s accessible, it is the welcoming face of the town, and it’s right beside the only Endo family property not destroyed by the tsunami – a storehouse that dates back around 80 years.

The building is now a symbol of the winery, incorporated into the logo. The metal rails on its window, bent and pummelled by the waves (see above picture), are part of the story of the town.

Endo assembled a team, including Junichiro Hosokawa, a seasoned sommelier and winemaker, who relocated to Tomioka in 2022.

‘The evacuation order had not yet been fully lifted, and I was shocked at the scene. A nearby Fashion Center Shimamura looked as if time had stood still since the disaster, with clothes in the store windows torn and strewn on the ground,’ he says.

‘We were starting a winery from scratch in Tomioka, a place with no track record or expertise in grape cultivation, so every day was spent exploring grape variety selection and cultivation methods suited to Tomioka’s proximity to the sea. I felt a sense of purpose that came from knowing we were undertaking a disaster recovery effort through wine.’

Perhaps the biggest challenge the team faced in turning this desolate space into a winery was to prepare the soil. They removed the topsoil, which had been ravaged by the tsunami, and replaced it with soil with a profile similar to the original – river sand from the Natsui River in Iwaki City and soil sourced from the Abukuma mountain range, about 45 minutes away.

‘By using topsoil from the same origin as the original soil, we believe that Tomioka’s terroir has been restored,’ says Hosokawa.

In April 2016, while the entire town was still under evacuation orders, Endo planted the first grapevines in Tomioka Town.

First Harvest

The first few years were challenging, with vine diseases and insects affecting the harvest. Endo, Hosokawa, and a team of volunteers had little success until 2019.

‘That year (2019), we were able to harvest the grapes and produce our first 57 bottles of wine,’ says Endo.

‘I felt that the volunteers’ mindset had shifted significantly. It was the moment when the impossible became possible, and I believe that was a major turning point.’

The winery now employs 12 people in its restaurant, shop and vineyards, which span around 60,000 square metres and grow 16,000 grapevines, serendipitously matching the pre-2011 earthquake population of Tomioka.

Tomioka Winery doesn’t yet produce enough grapes for the 10,000 bottles it produces annually, so production is supplemented with grapes from other prefectures.

Within five years, it will have the infrastructure to produce 30 to 40,000 bottles, including Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Koshu.

Endo enjoys a whimsical approach to winemaking. Taking inspiration from winemakers who believe the sound vibrations in music can influence fermentation, he plays Debussy’s La Mer all day, every day in the cellar.

‘A lot of winemakers choose Mozart, but it didn’t work well here. We needed something better suited to the sea breeze, music that reflected the ocean,’ he says.

Endo has even taken inspiration from a soy sauce factory he visited in Nagoya, which had a sticker reading ‘Arigatou’, meaning ‘thank you’ in Japanese, to honour the living bacteria.

Endo has added a sticker of thanks in the languages of each of the countries that have inspired his winemaking journey: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, and Ukrainian.

Safety Concerns

Major recovery efforts in the region, including topsoil removal, demolition of buildings and extensive cleaning, have reduced contamination. As a result, most evacuation orders have since been lifted, although only around 1,300 of Tomioka's 16,000 residents have returned.

Before moving to Tomioka, Hosokawa had some reservations. ‘Since this is an area affected by the nuclear accident, I was worried that radiation levels might be high. However, I was reassured when I checked the radiation monitors in town and saw that the levels were not high,’ he says.

‘Rather than dwelling on the past, I felt a stronger sense of anticipation about being involved in efforts to build the future.’

Endo knows that Tomioka's road to recovery is long. ‘The area still carries a negative image,’ says Endo.

‘But reconstruction is not only about infrastructure. Local people have to create excitement again, to build something others want to come and experience. I want Tomioka to be a place where people can think about what truly matters, and imagine what this region could become 100 years from now.’

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The eye traces the Loire from its mouth in Muscadet to Sancerre in the east. Pulled into Burgundy’s current, we’re soon adrift in Beaujolais, forgetting that France’s longest river bends sharply south to its origins in the volcanic heart of the Massif Central.

The Côtes du Forez lies on the slopes of this ancient landscape, almost off the map – yet nearest to where the river begins.

The smallest of the four appellations that make up the Loire Volcanique – a collective whose origins date back to a 2014 tasting entitled Ici Commence La Loire (‘Here the Loire Begins’) – Forez covers just 150ha of vines.

Its vineyards sit above the headwaters at elevations of 400m-600m, on granite and basalt soils derived from volcanic activity millions of years ago.

Narrow river-carved valleys – les gouttes – divide Forez into a patchwork of scattered hillside vineyards, mixed with pasture and forest.

Gamay is the sole grape permitted under the Forez AP, and the 11 domaines within the appellation mostly work with Gamay St Romain, a local biotype adapted to this upland terrain over centuries, producing wines of fine tannins, spiced red fruit, pepper and smoky minerality.

The Gamay connection invites associations with Beaujolais, but Forez’s higher elevation, shorter growing season and St Romain variant make for an edgier, more savoury expression.

Mostly unoaked, the wines manage to be dark yet light, mercifully registering around 12% alcohol.

Beyond Gamay, the vignerons of Forez bottle everything from volcanic Viognier and Chenin to Syrah under the IGP Urfé designation.

From the 1960s until the establishment of the Forez AP in 2000, virtually all local wine came from a single cooperative.

It was a long fall from grace: vines flourished here through the Middle Ages, and by 1883, there were more than 5,000ha under vine, fortifying the local mining industry and sending wine up the river.

Economically decimated by the phylloxera bug and two world wars, Forez was all but forgotten until a few local patriots brought it back from the edge.

Basalt crags and mountain Gamay

I arrived on a green-grey April morning with a cadre of curious Parisian sommeliers and wine merchants.

The vignerons greeted us at Château de Marcoux, perched on a basalt crag above the valley, and we tasted these mountain Gamays over a hearty lunch – charcuterie, Fourme de Montbrison cheese and a steaming pot of potatoes in cheese, cream and butter. I was grateful for the wines’ cleansing acidity and spicy profile.

Forez’s Gamays on granite, I found, tend toward richer, fruit-driven wines, whereas the basalt expressions are more mineral and ethereal.

Among the first to make wine outside the co-op were the Logel family. Today, cousins Maxime Verdier [Gillier] and Julie Logel carry the torch, having returned to Forez – Maxime from city life, Julie from development work in Cambodia.

I heard their colourful story – and those of fellow vignerons Stéphane Réal and Gilles Bonnefoy – over dinner at Château de Goutelas, where the menu was prepared chef Jacques Marcon of Michelin three-star Restaurant Régis & Jacques Marcon in St-Bonnet-le-Froid.

Famous for his use of wild mushrooms – gloriously in season at the time – Marcon served one of the finest meals I’ve had in France, and Forez’s volcanic Gamays rose to every course.

Pulsing with life

It’s easy to assume that places such as Forez – almost off the map – are provincial backwaters. But as I find time and again, there’s both natural beauty and cultural vibrance in forgotten France.

Medieval Château de Goutelas, part hotel, part progressive cultural centre, hosts artist residencies and music events – from raves to baroque ensembles. Perched in a forest among vines on the side of an extinct volcano, it pulses with life.

The Loire, like practically every river, has a hyporheic zone – an underground flow that extends far beyond its visible banks.

When we think we’re standing alongside a river, we are in fact often standing above it, unaware of what moves beneath.

Virginia Woolf, that most deliquescent of writers, put it best: ‘The past only comes back when the present runs so smoothly that it is like the sliding surface of a deep river.’

The eye traces these glistening surfaces, but to go beneath, we must travel to the source.

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Wine thrives in the picky bits flavour matrix

There’s a magic to summer eating that resists formality. It’s less about specific courses and more about moments: sun-warmed tables, clinking glasses and that irresistible sprawl of picky bits that somehow becomes the entire meal.

And if there’s a drinks partner that truly rises to the occasion every time, it’s wine. Not in a stiff, ceremonious sense, but as a fluid, flavour-led companion to the joyful chaos of grazing.

In my latest book The Picky Bits Sommelier, I explore a diverse and flavoursome array of wine styles and their perfect savoury counterparts.

It’s a journey in which I endeavoured to plot some of the much-loved classic picky bits – everything from mini pork pies, Cornish pasties and Scotch eggs to tempura prawns and vegetable samosas – into a distinct, four-part flavour matrix, making wine pairings a more enjoyable and accessible experience.

Picky bits, by their very nature, invite diversity. A grazing platter might swing from ‘Simple & classic’ – salted crisps, olives, chunks of cheddar and fish goujons – to ‘Complex & spicy’: harissa hummus, chorizo in oil and chicken satay skewers.

Then there’s the irresistible push and pull between ‘Salty & savoury’ and ‘Tangy & sweet’: cornichons, cured meats and ripe sundried tomatoes against creamy burrata, onion rings and barbecue hot wings.

It’s a flavour matrix that’s less linear, more kaleidoscopic – and that’s precisely where wine thrives.

Keeping it simple and classic

Start at the simpler end of the spectrum. Classic, uncomplicated snacks call for wines that refresh rather than overwhelm.

A bright Sauvignon Blanc works beautifully with mini goat’s cheese tarts; a zippy Albariño pairs beautifully with sweet and sharp pickled onions or gherkins.

The acidity cuts through salt, resetting the palate and helping to keep things lively. It’s the vinous equivalent of a sea breeze: clean, invigorating and quietly addictive.

Getting more complex: Think chilled reds or rosé

As things get a little more complex – say, grilled prawns, herby dips or charcuterie – you can begin to layer in wines with a touch more texture and nuance.

Think a chilled, light-bodied red such as a Pinot Noir with meatier picky bits, including pork pies, or Gamay with a classic melted camembert, straight from the oven and ready to dip with hunks of fresh bread.

Conversely, a dry rosé will have enough backbone to handle meat, shellfish and veg.

These wines bridge gaps effortlessly, weaving between flavours without stealing the spotlight, working with anything from prawn lollipops to tomato and mozzarella arancini.

Fresh, fruity wines to match picky bits with spice

Then we arrive at spice. Summer loves a bit of heat, whether it’s smoky paprika, chilli oil or a punchy salsa.

Here’s where many wines falter, but the trick is to dial down tannin and lean into fruit and freshness.

Off-dry Riesling is a classic for a reason: a whisper of sweetness soothes spice, especially when paired with vegetable samosas, while its acidity keeps everything in balance.

Alternatively, a juicy, low-alcohol red served slightly chilled can take the edge off heat while amplifying flavour.

Wines for salty & savoury picky bits

The ‘Salty & savoury’ quadrant is where indulgence really kicks in. Anchovies, cured meats, hard cheeses – these demand wines with either cleansing acidity or bold structure.

Fino Sherry, if you’re feeling adventurous, is sensational here, its saline tang echoing the food.

Otherwise, a mineral-driven white or a structured red such as a young Tempranillo will do the job with aplomb.

Pairing wine with 'tangy and sweet' elements

And let’s not forget the ‘Tangy & sweet’ elements: the pickles, chutneys, sun-ripened tomatoes and peppers that punctuate a summer spread.

These can be tricky to pair with, but also thrilling. Sparkling wine is a brilliant all-rounder: its acidity and bubbles dance happily with both sweetness and sharpness.

Sparkling rosé brings zest and zing to crispy tempura prawns. A lightly sweet Moscato or a fragrant Gewürztraminer can elevate more Asian-inspired cuisine, such as hoisin duck spring rolls, without feeling heavy.

Spirit of exploration

Ultimately, wine and picky bits are the perfect summer indulgence because they embrace informality without sacrificing pleasure. There’s no rigid rulebook here, just a spirit of exploration.

Whether you’re sprawled on a picnic blanket or hosting a garden gathering that drifts lazily into dusk, the combination invites sharing, discovery and a little bit of delicious excess.

And really, what more could you want from summer?

Wine with picky bits: Top pairings to try

Provolone cheese & smoked prosciutto rollitos

Pair with: Prosecco

The light, crisp notes and charismatic green orchard fruit strike a chord here.

Olives with rosemary & black pepper

Pair with: fino or manzanilla Sherry & tonic

The Sherry brings out the touch of sweetness in the olives and blends superbly with the warmth of the black pepper.

Caperberries / cocktail cornichons

Pair with: Albariño

A great Albariño brings additional intensity to the pairing: it will bring out sweetness in anything pickled.

Bocconcini mozzarella balls and/or Serrano ham croquettes

Pair with: Chardonnay

The creamy oakiness and subtle spices enhance the richer flavours of cheese and that touch of smokiness in the ham.

Cream cheese-stuffed cherry peppers

Pair with: Sangiovese

The fresh fruitiness of the peppers is accented beautifully by the softer red fruit in the wine.

Barbecue chicken wings

Pair with: Zinfandel

The stickiness of the wings and their sweet and sour sauce are the perfect playground for a big, bold Zin.

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Amid a sea of bad news for the wine industry, the white wine category is having a moment.

According to the 2025 SVB State of the U.S. Wine Industry report, white wine has positive growth rates by volume and now has better sales growth rates than red wine.

Similarly, data from WSWA’s SipSource revealed that, despite a broader market decline, multiple white wine categories demonstrated modest growth.

For a wine region like Paso Robles on California's Central Coast, where only 15% of the grapes planted are white, this is pertinent news.

But, despite the region being known for big, bombastic red wines, a quiet few are putting out quality white wines that are fresh, interesting, and challenging the status quo.

Going their own way

'When I started to make wine, people said to me that to succeed, you have to make red wine,' says Nancy Ulloa, owner and winemaker of Ulloa Cellars, a white wine-focused brand.

Fresh whites might not come to mind in Paso, which is notorious for its high temperatures.

This was especially apparent during the 2022 vintage, when a relentless 10-day heat spike over 40 degrees Celsius dominated the region at harvest time.

If grapes (especially white) were not picked before this spike, quality suffered. And, being so well-known for full-bodied red wines, there was historically little stylistic demand for white wines, let alone fresh ones.

Still, Paso producers are finding ways to craft wines of this style. It comes down to grape varieties, picking decisions, and winemaking technique.

Stephy Terrizzi, viticulturist and co-owner of Giornata, says: 'We make picking decisions for white grapes based more on pH than brix levels. Lower-pH grapes (meaning higher acidity) will have fresher qualities and be more zippy on the palate. In the cellar, we do not add malolactic bacteria and currently use only stainless steel and amphora for fermenting and ageing.'

Ulloa relies upon pick times, different vessels, lees stirring, and varying combinations of yeast per lot.

Working together

These approaches are leading to notable success with white wines in Paso. Giornata, with a focus on Italian varieties, is currently producing more white wines than red wines.

Dave McGee, winemaker at Monochrome, a white wine-only winery, says: 'Many customers come to our door because they are excited to try something different and new. They mention they have a stash of reds at home, but no whites.'

He also talks about Paso’s evolving culinary scene, which includes two Michelin-starred restaurants.

'White wines often pair better with the elegant, nuanced courses being offered by the top new restaurants than do the traditional big Paso reds,' he adds.

Rhône variety-focused Tablas Creek has been a pioneer in the 'lighter side' of Paso Robles since its inception in 1989, with its Patelin Blanc and Esprit Blanc consistently earning both critical acclaim and commercial success over the years.

Now, says Terrizzi: 'Paso Robles winemakers have put thought and energy into making more serious white wines that are complex and sometimes age-worthy, like Fiano and Chenin Blanc.'

McGee agrees that: 'More winemakers are now putting the same level of effort, passion, and attention to detail into their whites that they had previously reserved only for their top reds.'

And as consumer trends shift, this new-found focus is paying off.

10 fresh, summer white wines from Paso Robles

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If there's one cuvée every Champagne lover dreams of tasting at least once in their life, it's Salon. So imagine the chance to taste not one, but five vintages of this legendary wine, produced only 45 times since the house was founded in 1905.

And what an opportunity to enjoy these five wines alongside five more Blanc de Blancs cuvées from Champagne Delamotte, Salon's sister house.

This was the exclusive opportunity afforded some 80 lucky attendees who got tickets to this sold-out masterclass – the first one of the day at the 2026 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York City, held on Saturday 6 June in the beautiful surrounds of the Manhatta on the 60th floor.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the 10 Salon and Delamotte Champagnes at the DFWE NYC 2026 masterclass

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs NV (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2018 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2014 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2012 (magnum)

Delamotte, Collection Blanc de Blancs 2008 (magnum)

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2015

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2013

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2012

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2007

Salon, Cuvée S, Edition 2020, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 1997

Sister houses with distinct identities

Hosted by Cristian Rimoldi, the export director for both Delamotte and Salon, which have been part of the Laurent-Perrier group since 1988, this rare and exceptional tasting was a deep-dive into the complex and nuanced language of Chardonnay and the grands crus of the Côte des Blancs through the lens of these iconic sister houses

Through 10 remarkable and defining expressions of these outstanding terroirs, Rimoldi illustrated the commonalities between the two house’s approaches, as well as their distinct identities.

As background for the attendees, Rimoldi explained that the same technical teams are in charge of both houses, from viticulture to marketing. This allows for a nuanced understanding of the Chardonnay profile – from both owned and purchased vineyard plots – and subsequent decisions, particularly regarding the decision to release vintage cuvées.

For both houses, the wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks, but each has a different regimen regarding malolactic fermentation. It is done at Delamotte, while it is not encouraged – indeed prevented – at Salon, in order to preserve the delicate tension of the grape variety and terroir.

The dosage, made with cane sugar, is determined on a case-by-case basis, yet ranges between five grams per litre and 7.5g/L, with the exception of late disgorgements (Delamotte's Collection cuvée, and the ‘editions’ for Salon), which are brut nature, the extended bottling time providing the desired balance on the palate without the addition of sugar.

Champagne Delamotte

The first part of the tasting focused on Delamotte. One of the oldest houses in the Champagne region, founded in 1760, it specialises in Chardonnay, the grape variety at the heart of its four cuvées, where the average age of the vines is 40 years.

Champagne Delamotte also has HVE certification, which verifies its commitment to sustainable viticulture, and is moving towards organic farming trials

While it draws on the exceptional terroir of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Delamotte's philosophy, as Rimoldi told his audience, is the blending of the great crus of the Côte des Blancs. For the Blanc de Blancs NV, Avize and Oger are added to Mesnil, and for the pair of Blanc de Blancs Vintage cuvées, it is the three aforementioned crus plus Chouilly, Oiry, and Cramant.

‘We are the only house offering a blend of all six crus of the Côte,’ he emphasised. Added from 2008 onwards, Chouilly and Oiry ‘bring acidity, but also a structure similar to that of a Pinot Noir’.

The Blanc de Blancs NV is designed to be approachable, with the base vintage joined by 30% of reserve wine from the two preceding vintages, a 48-month aging period, and a more ‘inclusive’ dosage of around 7g/L.

The vintage cuvées, meanwhile, are crafted for complexity and ageing potential, and are undoubtedly the flagship of the house – albeit a discreet flagship, noted Rimoldi, often overlooked or little known by Côte des Blancs enthusiasts.

Contrasting vintage profiles

This was confirmed by comparative tastings of the 2018, 2014, and 2012 vintages. Their distinct identities were clearly identifiable – the ripeness of the 2018, the cool tension of the 2014, and the robust structure of the 2012 – especially since they were tasted in magnums. (They, like all 10 wines in the tasting, were aged under screwcap).

‘In terms of pH and ripeness, 2018 is similar to 1982,’ said Rimoldi when the topic of climate change was raised, along with its potential impact on a style as intense as Delamotte and Salon.

‘We need to take a step back and look at cycles,’ he explained. ‘We are obviously very aware of this issue. One advantage, however, is the improved health of the grapes compared to harvests that were previously very late and more complicated.

‘And we are fortunate to be on exceptional chalky terroirs with their water reserves, which are so important for the vines.’

The fact that the 2014 and 2012 were also in a period of post-disgorgement development highlighted the contrasting profiles of these vintages, both in terms of volume and aromas.

The comparison became even more interesting with the 2008 Collection. Delamotte offers late disgorgements for its Brut Vintage (dating back to 1964) as well as its Blanc de Blancs (1970, 1985, 1988, 1991, 1999, 2000, 2008).

Disgorged and then aged for barely a year, with no added dosage, the 2008 had the aromatic profile of a great Chardonnay, but with surprising power and density for a Côte des Blancs wine. A wine showing that Delamotte's vintage Blanc de Blancs is a benchmark, offering real value for money.

Champagne Salon

The second part of the tasting was devoted to the truly unique Salon Champagne. While its aesthetic – a single terroir (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger), a single vintage, a single grape variety – is no longer particularly striking today, Rimoldi reminded attendees that ‘Aimé Salon, a great lover of Burgundy, had this idea in 1905!’

Moving from the magnum format of the five Delamotte wines to the 75cl format for Salon – as well as going from the mature, brut nature 2008 Delamotte Collection to a young 2015 Salon, required particular concentration from the guests and was a true exercise for the palate.

But Rimoldi started with this latest vintage release followed by 2013, 2012, 2007, and 1997 in its 'second edition' version from 2020.

‘There is only one disgorgement when we release a vintage, and we do not indicate the date on the bottle,’ he told the masterclass.

‘However, we have decided to offer late disgorgements which we call Editions, in which case the disgorgement dates are mentioned. In terms of dosage, we are still around 5g/L to 7g/L grams, as for Delamotte, except for these late disgorgements, which are brut nature, as for Delamotte Collection.’

Making history

Only 45 vintages of Salon have been released since 1905 – 37 during the 20th century, but already eight since 2000.

Symbolic of the climatic consequences, 2015 was a sunny vintage so required less bottling time than 2014. This vintage has needed a longer time on the lees (tirage) and is still ageing ‘at a glacial pace’.

This is only the second time in Salon’s history it has made a non-chronological release. And once 2014 is out, it will also be only the second time that four consecutive Salon vintages (2012-13-14-15) will have been made, after the quadrilogy of 1946-47-48-49.Undoubtedly, the 2015 benefited from the water-retaining quality of the Mesnil chalk, mitigating the stress experienced by the vines in other Champagne areas, which can lead to vegetal bitterness on the palate.

The 2013 and 2012 vintages were remarkable examples of the Salon style, but very different profiles: 2012 with its mature, slightly more evolved structure, and 2013 with its crisp, chiselled freshness.

Salon has a reputation for closing up after a few years in the bottle and then reopening. This seems to be more the case with 2012 than 2013. The 2007, with a profile similar to the 2014, also benefited from a longer tirage period (11 years compared to the average of nine), and is now at its peak, deserving its nickname of ‘shining light’.

The masterclass concluded with a truly great 1997 (edition 2020), aged for 23 years and with no added dosage. Confirming again the importance of lees in defining texture and revealing density, the wine is surprisingly expressive.

Champagne Delamotte and Salon masterclass: 10 Blanc de Blancs cuvées

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By the time the Continental Congress formally approved the Declaration of Independence on 4 July 1776, winemaking in North America already had a relatively long and uneven history.

The earliest attempts date back to the early decades of European settlement and involved experiments with native grape species.

Typically characterised by high acidity, lower sugar levels, and distinctive flavour profiles, these native grapes produced wines markedly different from their European counterparts, prompting repeated (and often unsuccessful) attempts to establish plantings of Vitis vinifera imported from the Old World.

One of the most notable of such attempts was undertaken by Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States and passionate wine enthusiast, who planted European grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at his Monticello estate in Virginia.

Despite more than three decades of stubborn experimentation, Jefferson never succeeded in producing a reliable vintage from these vines.

Vitis vinifera’s failures in North America were long attributed to factors such as unfavourable climate, soil conditions, or poor vineyard practices, but a far more significant element at play was likely the presence of phylloxera.

This microscopic root-feeding pest native to North America that would later decimate European vineyards once inadvertently introduced there in the 19th century.

More substantial viticultural progress came with the arrival of Franciscan missionaries in the American southwest, who cultivated the Mission grape, a variety imported from Spain – via Mexico – and later identified as Listán Prieto.

This grape became the foundation of California’s early wine industry, demonstrating the region’s capacity for sustained viticulture.

Indeed, while wine production expanded across the United States, it was California that laid the groundwork for what would become the epicentre of American winemaking, driven in large part by European immigrants bringing both technical expertise and commercial ambition.

Among them were Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian who established Buena Vista in Sonoma in 1857, and German immigrant Charles Krug who founded his namesake winery in Napa Valley in 1861.

Prohibition: Time for a reset

As Europe grappled with the devastation of phylloxera towards the end of the 19th century, the United States was laying the groundwork for a constitutional alcohol ban.

Nationwide prohibition officially began in January 1920. Its impact on American wine was immediate and severe.

Most commercial wineries ceased operations altogether, bringing what had so far been a growing and increasingly ambitious industry to an abrupt halt.

Wine production, however, did not disappear entirely. Wineries such as Beaulieu Vineyard and Beringer were able to survive the dry years by producing sacramental wine for religious institutions.

At the same time, a legal loophole created a parallel informal economy centred around domestic winemaking, particularly in immigrant-heavy urban areas like New York, Chicago, and Boston.

By the time Prohibition was repealed in December 1933, only a small fraction of America’s wineries were still operational.

The industry’s entire commercial infrastructure – vineyards, distribution networks, oenological expertise, and consumer culture – had to be rebuilt almost from scratch.

California Chablis, jug wine and post-Prohibition rebirth

For much of post-Prohibition America, wine was primarily an inexpensive intoxicant, often sweet, and produced in ‘Port’ or ‘Sherry’-style expressions that bore little resemblance to their Old World counterparts.

Yet, beneath these high mass-market volumes, some producers began investing seriously in quality and in the long-term potential of American wine.

One of the most transformative moments came in 1938 with the arrival of Russian-born winemaker André Tchelistcheff at Napa’s Beaulieu Vineyard.

Widely regarded as one of the founding architects of modern Californian wine, Tchelistcheff introduced a new level of scientific rigour and technical precision to viticulture and winemaking, drawing heavily on European high standards while adapting practices to Californian conditions.

Through direct mentorship and broader industry influence, Tchelistcheff helped shape a new generation of winemakers, including figures such as Robert Mondavi, Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich of Grgich Hills, who would play defining roles in the rise of modern American wine.

Robert Mondavi, in particular, proved instrumental in reshaping the narrative surrounding Californian wine.

Rather than relying on (then common) European-inspired names such as ‘California Chablis’ or ‘Napa Burgundy’, he championed varietal labelling, placing grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay front and centre.

Mondavi also promoted wine as part of a broader cultural lifestyle connected to gastronomy, music, art, and conviviality, helping (re)position it as an aspirational product rather than a merely functional one.

By the 1970s, the United States was producing wines capable of competing with the world’s finest.

British wine merchant Steven Spurrier was sufficiently convinced of such progress that, in 1976, he organised a blind tasting in Paris pitting leading Californian wines against some of France’s most prestigious labels.

The outcome of what would become known as the Judgment of Paris stunned the audience, the jury, and the industry as a whole: Californian wines triumphed in both the white and red categories, defeating celebrated Burgundies and Bordeaux.

The tasting marked a watershed moment for American wine, securing its place on the global fine wine map and fundamentally altering international perceptions of what the country was capable of bottling.

Napa Cab and The Critics

In the years that followed this landmark moment, Californian winemaking increasingly shifted towards a style defined by power, ripeness, and opulence, producing wines marked by intense fruit concentration, elevated alcohol levels, deep extraction, and generous use of new French oak.

This evolution was strongly shaped by the rise of influential critic Robert Parker Jr, who tended to favour this bold, ripe stylistic approach, rewarding it with higher marks in his influential 100-point scoring system.

This philosophy gradually spread beyond California, in a phenomenon referred to, sometimes critically, as Parkerisation.

From Bordeaux to Tuscany and Rioja, producers increasingly embraced riper fruit, softer tannins, later harvesting, and more assertive oak regimes.

They often sought input from influential international consultants such as Michel Rolland, in pursuit of the high critic scores they felt could elevate reputation, demand, and revenues almost overnight.

As the 20th century drew to a close, the United States had entered an entirely new phase of its wine history.

No longer a country merely striving to prove its legitimacy to the global wine establishment, it had become one of the principal forces shaping its direction, aesthetics, and economic dynamics.

A multi-layered landscape

Modern American wine is a remarkably nuanced landscape, one that mirrors the equally complex history of the country itself and the multitude of cultures, migrations, and traditions that shaped its social fabric.

California continues to dominate both production volume and the premium sector, but has become far more stylistically diverse than the blockbuster Cabernet stereotype often associated with it.

Powerful Napa Cab still occupies a central place in the state’s identity, yet California today produces an extraordinary range of styles, from refined coastal Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Mediterranean varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Vermentino.

Zinfandel (arguably America’s most emblematic grape) is also being reinterpreted in more nuanced and site-specific ways.

Meanwhile, fellow West Coast states have, over the past few decades, firmly joined the race for quality wine production.

Oregon has established itself as a leading cool-climate region, particularly for elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while Washington State has earned acclaim for structured Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhône varieties, and vibrant Riesling.

On the East Coast, New York’s Finger Lakes region has steadily built a reputation for refined, high-acid, cool-climate wines, particularly Riesling and Cabernet Franc.

Centuries after Thomas Jefferson’s failed experiments, Virginia has also finally found its winemaking identity, acclaimed for Cabernet Franc and Viognier, grapes well suited to the state’s humid continental climate (though producers are successfully working across a wide range of styles and varieties).

Beyond these, quality wine is produced in almost every American state, from the Mediterranean varieties of Texas to the cool, fresh, and unexpectedly refined whites of Michigan.

Across the country, winemakers now express a striking diversity of approaches and philosophies, with an increasing emphasis on regional identity over homogenised stylistic consistency.

The story of American wine may have begun as a matter of trial and – significant – error, but in the span of a semiquincentennial it has morphed into a deliberate, confident, and increasingly self-assured expression of place, as diverse and expansive as the country itself.

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When whisky meets orange wine...

The latest limited-edition release from Highland distillery Deanston, 17 Year Old Orange Wine Cask Finish (Alc 53.6%, £89.95-£95/70cl Spirited, The Whisky Exchange) is a single malt that has been matured for 15 years in ex-bourbon casks before a further two-year finish in casks previously used to make vino de naranja – a fortified wine from Andalucía made with bitter orange peel.

It’s bold and rich, with orange zest and orange oil aromas, honey, camomile and marmalade on toast, plus nuttiness and woody spice.

In the mouth, Deanston’s signature waxiness joins an intense bitter citrus character, with notes of blood orange, dried apricots, sultanas, honey, brown spice and malted milk biscuit.

Make a Colomba cocktail

From: Paper Plane, San Jose, California, USA

Words by: Vicki Denig

What is a Colomba cocktail?

This Italian twist on a summery Paloma cocktail was created by Ryan Ota, director of beverage operations for MO-Hospitality, which owns Paper Plane in downtown San Jose.

‘I’ve always loved bitter cocktails and liqueurs, and I look for any opportunity to share that preference with others,’ he says.

‘The Colomba is designed as an accessible Paloma riff; it features a full ounce of Campari but balances the bitterness with tropical passion fruit.

The name Colomba is the Italian word for dove, mirroring the meaning of the Spanish Paloma. The result is a refreshing cocktail that carries the pleasant, sharp bitterness of biting into a fresh grapefruit.’

Ota prefers to use Squirt grapefruit soda (£2.99/355ml Mexican Mama) and adds: ‘Be sure not to over-shake this cocktail; you want to leave enough room in the glass to top it off with the Squirt.’

Ingredients: What you'll need

• Glass: Highball
• Garnish: Orange twist
• 40ml blanco tequila
• 40ml Campari
• 30ml passion fruit syrup
• 30ml lemon juice
• 60ml grapefruit soda (to top)

Method

• Add all ingredients except the grapefruit soda to a shaker filled with ice and shake until your hands are cold.
• Strain into a highball glass filled with ice cubes.
• Top with soda and garnish.

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The Round of 32 matches are now well underway and will blend into the Round of 16 over the weekend.

With France and Canada in action on Saturday we thought we'd bring you our recommendations for their matches now and our pairings for the remaining wine teams (including England, Spain and Portugal) on Monday.

This round has also claimed a few more victims, with some of our wine nations falling by the wayside.

Germany: Despite many exquisite wine recommendations, Germany slump to another relatively early exit, this time against Paraguay. Don't worry Riesling fans, you can always drink some from Alsace while cheering on France.

Croatia: A big wine clash with Portugal eventually saw Croatia succumb after a frenetic second half and a match with goals disallowed left and right. Hopefully readers made some wine discoveries along the way.

Austria: We said their game against Spain was go big or go home for Austria. And, well, they're going home, but hopefully fans at least won in the wine stakes if they opened something suitably magnificent.

And if you feel the need for some... actual football analysis during this World Cup, do check in on our friends and colleagues over at FourFourTwo for all their updates and coverage.

Tina: Canada

Canada (vs Morocco): It’s a ‘home’ game for Team Canada at the Houston Stadium, hopefully packed out with enough visitors from the north to holler on their boys in red.

The other boys in red – with a green star, not a maple leaf – are ranked sixth in the world, and will be overwhelming favourites in this match up, no matter how inspiring the speech (or entertaining a goal celebration) from Canada’s manager Jesse Marsch.

Based on the kits, it looks like a red should be the wine choice, but I’m going for a crisp, herbal Cabernet Franc rosé to cool things down, both in the temperature stakes and the fiery on-field play.

Plus, it would be a great pairing for a classic chicken, green olive and preserved lemon tagine served with fluffy couscous.

The Fourth of July is America’s national day, but it comes only a few days after Canada Day (1 July), so maybe a victory in Houston is cause for united celebration?

Rupert: France

France (vs Paraguay): After a scintillating performance against Sweden, France have become this competition’s hottest team and most talked-about team.

Now they face the surprise vanquishers of Germany – Paraguay – in the city of brotherly love (Philadelphia) in what will be sweltering conditions.

You, of course, may be a connoisseur of Paraguay’s distinct and varied cuisine, but many of us may find it easier to throw together a classic sandwich like the Philly Cheesesteak.

Sliced beef, some onions, cheese, throw it in a hoagie roll; make it fancy or keep it simple, add your own twist on the classic. But what to pair it with?

There’s not a clear answer here but something red and with the kind of silky oomph that Kylian Mbappé puts into one of his strikes from outside the box.

Cabernet Franc from the Loire would work well with its juicy red-black fruit and savoury touch, or perhaps head southwest and match with a more fruit-forward but still meaty Cahors Malbec.

But what about this Mourvedre-driven bottle from Terrasses du Larzac in the Languedoc.

‘Sweet-fruited, concentrated and endlessly fluid,’ wrote reviewer Natalie Earl, sounds rather like this French attack. Allez les bleus!

Izzy: England

England (vs Mexico): The country is feeling extremely grateful for Harry Kane after he rescued England in a much nervier than anticipated knockout match against DR Congo, with the Lions beating the Leopards 2-1 in the end.

The team is now heading to Mexico for the first time in the competition, where they’ll need to adjust quickly to the 2,200m altitude of the Azteca Stadium, a tough task.

England’s certainly not famous for high altitude wines – not many of the country’s vineyards sit above about 100m.

From the best of our low-lying vines, though, come this year’s DWWA winners – try this silver-winning Sauvignon Blanc from Gloucestershire.

Light and zingy, it would make a lovely pairing for fish tacos, and notes of jalapeños feel more than appropriate for a match against Mexico…

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While cooler-climate regions in the US, such as Oregon’s Willamette Valley, are better known for sparkling wine, a growing cohort of Washington state winemakers have been producing fizz worthy of fireworks.

The state’s principal appellation, the Columbia Valley, is larger than the country of Belgium and a growing region of extreme diversity.

Across its microclimates, sub-appellations, and high-elevation vineyards, traditional sparkling varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir seem to grow as well as the human talent required to transform those grapes into premium wines.

As US wine drinkers prepare to celebrate the nation’s 250th birthday on the Fourth of July, here are five reasons to consider a bottle of Washington state fizz for the festivities.

Five sparklingly good reasons to choose Washington state fizz for your Fourth festivities

1. A range of prices puts Washington bubbly in reach of most buyers

Entry-level, traditional-method bottles from established Yakima-based producers such as Treveri start below $20. Newer upstart brand Tirriddis prices its value House line at just over $20 a bottle.

Gabriel Crowell, co-founder and director of winemaking at Tirriddis in Prosser, attributes this competitive edge to the state’s established agricultural infrastructure and what he calls the ‘pursuit of flavor’.

‘What makes sparkling so unique is that you have the option of flavor, but you have the possibility of being able to actually produce enough cases to get a traditional-method Pinot Gris to St Louis, Missouri.’

2. Cool-climate varieties are grown with success across the state

‘I’m always looking for the coolest spots,’ says Chris Sherry, who crafts traditional-method sparkling wines for his brand Elentone in the Woodinville wine district north of Seattle.

He sources fruit from higher-elevation vineyards within the rugged Columbia Gorge.

His preferred sites, such as Celilo on Underwood Mountain and nearby Rainmaker in White Salmon, are further west in the Gorge appellation.

These areas are closer to maritime influences from the Pacific Ocean, and benefit from more moderated temperatures as well as an extended growing season.

‘It just helps things ripen a bit more evenly,’ says Sherry.

3. Styles are suited to every taste

From natural, low-intervention styles, to extended lees ageing, or bottlings made using non-traditional grape varieties, there is something for everyone on Washington’s sparkling spectrum.

Grosgrain winemaker Matt Austin, who helped popularize pet-nat (pétillant naturel) in the state with his Red Mountain Lemberger, now produces a traditional-method wine from the variety, albeit in a largely hands-off style.

‘We still make that wine in a fairly natural way, with no fining, filtration, or cold stabilization, to keep it a little more wild and textural,’ Austin says.

4. Washington fizz is fantastically food friendly

Picnic salads, corn on the cob, burgers, barbecue: few wines are better with a variety of traditional cookout foods than Washington’s many high-acid bubblies.

In Walla Walla, Kinhaven winemaker Kasey Davenport suggests seafood with her fizz, The Four Stars.

‘We love it with oysters, Dungeness crab pasta salad, or a lobster roll.’

5. You can toast to the promise of a brighter tomorrow (like a State official)

Second-generation winemaker Christian Grieb of Treveri in Wapato, Washington, says his brand’s Blanc de Blancs Brut Zero has made its way to the nation’s capital more than once.

‘We’ve been served at the State Department on several occasions,’ Grieb says.

‘We love its mission, which is American diplomacy through American food and wine.’

10 great Washington state sparkling wines to try

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Top medals for English producers at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2026 show there has never been a better time to dive into the country’s rapidly developing vinous landscape, from vintage fizz to terroir-driven still wines.

Newly released results add a fresh chapter to UK winemakers’ blossoming success story. For the second consecutive year, a magnum of English sparkling featured in the top 50 Best in Show selection, which at DWWA 2026 represents just 0.3% of all wines tasted.

Meanwhile, still wines continue to assert themselves on the global stage. Chardonnay led the way at DWWA 2026, including via a coveted Platinum medal.

Simon Field MW, encouraged wine drinkers to ‘be adventurous’. DWWA’s rigorous judging process, involving many world-leading experts, means buyers can explore with the utmost confidence.

Top awarded English wines at DWWA 2026

Balfour, Blanc de Blancs, Kent, England 2018 (magnum)

Best in Show, 97 points
£120/magnum Balfour Winery
For the second year in a row, the sparkling wine that most impressed our GB & Ireland panel was one bottled in magnum. In contrast to last year’s Sussex blend, though, the 2026 laureate was a blanc de blancs wine from Kent. It was a much younger wine, too – a 2018 rather than last year’s 2009. A youthful style, then, with a see the of fine-beaded bubbles and incision to the fore in its sensual profile? Absolutely. But remember what a generous summer the UK enjoyed in 2018. The aromas of this pale sparkler sing: poised lemon cream, sourdough and cut stone tease and linger in the glass. While the palate is bracing, mouthwatering and impactful, that splendid season is evident in its length and resonance. The extra-dry style throws the spotlight on the wine’s fruit qualities (orchard fruits as well as lemony citrus) and the quality of its acidity (dominant, taut yet unquestionably ripe – as you can detect in the wine’s latent aromatics). This is an English wine magnum with a long future ahead if well stored. Alcohol 12%

Winding Wood, Rosé Brut, Berkshire, England 2022

Platinum, 97 points
£38 (ib)-£42.50 Carte Blanche Wines, Winding Wood Vineyard
Rose garden and strawberry aromatics with red apple notes. A plush, toasted brioche core. Beautifully fresh with a gentle mousse and a long finish. Alc 12%

Tidebrook, Staddle Stone Chardonnay, Sussex, England 2023

Platinum, 97 points
£34-£36 George Hill Grocers, Mousehall, The Whisky Exchange
Lush lemon curd and stone fruit underscored by the cool-climate tension of chalky minerals. Racy acidity ripples through a sheen of creamy oak complexity and garnishes the long finish. Alc 12.5%

Chapel Down, Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée Extra Brut, Kent, England 2016

Gold, 96 points
£120-£130 Chapel Down, Hedonism, The English Wine Collection, The Whisky Exchange
Deliciously evolving aromas of ripe apple, quince, caramel and bread fill out the plump structure and settled mousse, quenched by the tapering, lemon tonic acidity. Alc 12%

Hundred Hills, Hillside No3, Oxfordshire, England 2019

Gold, 96 points
£116.34/magnum Hundred Hills
In magnum. Vivid citrus, biscuit and chalky mineral elegance harmonise with the ample texture and plush, creamy mousse. Very complete, long and sizzling with energy. Alc 12%

Wiston, Blanc de Blancs Brut, South Downs, England 2018

Gold, 96 points
£54-£65 All About Wine, Hedonism, London End Wines, Must & Lees, Wiston Estate

Tropical fruit and floral aromas over frothy, mouthfilling bubbles. Subtle acidity brings the fine-tuning. Savoury, creamy notes gather at the end. Alc 12%

Bluestone, Premier Reserve Brut, England 2018

Gold, 95 points
Bluestone Vineyards
Smouldering smoky matchstick characters pair admirably with a fine veneer of lemon tart, brioche and apricot jam. A plush opulence cushions the pervading acidity. Exceptional. Alc 12%

Hambledon, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Hampshire, England NV

Gold, 95 points
£54-£62 Berry Bros & Rudd, Hambledon Vineyard, The Champagne Co, Vinvm
Exemplary English character: floral, green cow parsley and vanilla cream aromas fold into the exuberant lemon-pith mousse and racy acidity. Very long and compelling. Alc 12%

Hambledon, Classic Cuvée Brut, Hampshire, England NV

Gold, 95 points
£95/magnum Hambledon Vineyard
In magnum. Splendid golden apple, pear and zingy lemon fragrance softly draped over a backdrop of baked caramel biscuit. Poised and stirring, with silky bubbles and mineral length. Alc 12%

Sugrue South Downs, Cuvée Dr Brendan O’Regan Brut, Sussex, England NV

Gold, 95 points
£125-£135 Grape Britannia, Hennings, Indigo Wine
Layers of apple, citrus and floral notes grace the refined effervescence and gentle acidity. A delightful honeyed, bready character unfolds towards the end. Alc 12%

Wiston, Blanc de Noirs Brut, South Downs, England 2018

Gold, 95 points
£58-£68 All about wine, Drinks Direct, Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism, The Wine Engine, Wiston Estate
Dark berry and toffee apple notes weave into the generous texture and bright, elevating acidity. Well crafted and pure. Alc 12%

Coolhurst Vineyards, Lady Elizabeth Rosé, Sussex, England 2018

Gold, 95 points
£45 Coolhurst Vineyards
Attractively composed fresh strawberry, raspberry, cherry and red apple allied with sumptuous brioche and savoury saline charm. Weighty and structured with supple mousse. Alc 12%

Gusbourne, Boot Hill Vineyard Chardonnay, Kent, England 2022

Gold, 95 points
£55 Gusbourne
Assertive aromas of baked apple, pear and creamy oak sit regally over the luxuriant structure and ease gently towards a deceptively long finish. Perfectly expressed Chardonnay. Alc 13%

Harrow & Hope, No10 Reserve Brut, Buckinghamshire, England NV

Silver, 94 points
£33-£35 Abingdon Fine Wine, Grape Britannia, Jeroboams, Laithwaites, The English Wine Collection, The Oxford Wine Co
Toasted hazelnut, walnut and honeysuckle aromas. Concentrated lemon curd and pastry notes. Alc 12%

English Oak, San Gabriel Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Brut, Dorset, England 2019

Silver, 93 points
£60 English Oak Vineyard
Nougat, fig and spice on the nose. Creamy pear and stewed apple flavours, bright acidity and hints of toffee apple. Alc 12%

Search all DWWA 2026 winners

Provence rosé, Picpoul de Pinet, Muscadet, Albariño, Vinho Verde: all familiar wine styles that make for perfect summer drinking, wines with high refreshment value that have become deeply associated with sunshine, outdoor dining and conviviality.

Classics are classics for a reason, yet there are lots of wines beyond the obvious picks that are waiting to be opened at your next summer gathering – and are also lots of fun to try out.

To get the most enjoyment out of your wine choices this season, here are five summer drinking hacks and 20 wines to seek out.

Summer isn’t all about rosé… but don’t underestimate its ability to get spirits in the pink

Coral, onion skin, fucshia, raspberry or petal pink, colour is an important factor for many people when choosing rosé.

But regardless of the hue, rosé still needs flavour if it’s going to please a crowd.

Beyond Provence, look to northern Spain, Greece, Tavel (Rhône) and Pays d’Oc for rosés of real character.

Reds deserve their place in the ice bucket, too

Don’t be afraid to treat some red varieties like whites.

Reds that are unoaked, light in body and tannin, and fresh in aroma and acidity will love a moment in the fridge.

Gamay, Cinsault, Grenache, Poulsard and País are grapes that often work chilled.

Try orange this summer

You might be surprised at how versatile and accessible orange wine can be, with many examples offering up summery flavours and great food-pairing potential.

Is sparkling red the next big summer drink?

Fruity in flavour, bubbly and rounded in texture, great with food – and served refreshingly chilled, there’s no reason why sparkling reds couldn’t be your next summer wine crush.

Don’t overthink it

Keeping things cool is your only major concern when it comes to enjoying wine in the summer months.

Beyond that, focus on trying different things, finding your style and sharing that experience with others.

If you want to pop an ice cube in your glass of rosé, just do it. If you forgot to put your fizz in the fridge, chuck it in the freezer for 30-40 minutes and crack open the red first – never mind the tasting order.

There’s no better way to branch out and try new things than in the warm, comforting glow of great friends.

20 wines for perfect summer sipping

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Welcome to Decanter magazine's July 2026 issue

Choose Chiroubles

Leader by Amy Wislocki, Decanter magazine editor

I haven’t yet made it to Beaujolais, though I remember a colleague telling me years ago how surprised she was by the beauty of the landscapes.

I have been captivated by the beauty of its wines though, and had great fun tasting through a lineup of them at the launch party for Natasha Hughes’ book on the region (see contents list below).

Coincidentally, my favourite wine at that party happens to be the top-scoring wine in Natasha’s recommendations at the end of her compelling read on Chiroubles. And at a little above £20 a bottle retail, it is a bargain at the price.

Natasha tells the story beautifully of a Beaujolais cru whose wines are delicious, but which is struggling to remain financially viable due to the cost and toil involved in working its vertiginous slopes, the harsh weather that periodically destroys large portions of the crop, and the fact that it’s easier to sell other, better-known Beaujolais crus, such as Fleurie.

I hope that after reading Natasha’s piece, you might be inspired to seek out some Chiroubles and help spread the word!

In my glass this month

I was impressed by the Robert Mondavi, Reserve Fumé Blanc 2023 (£80 Enotria, from September), which contains a dash of Semillon, and uses fruit from the famous To Kalon vineyard.

In tastings held simultaneously in 12 cities around the world – to mark the opening of Mondavi’s new winery – attendees voted the Fumé Blanc ‘Wine of the Day’, with the 60th Anniversary release Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 runner-up.

Inside Decanter magazine's July 2026 issue

In focus

• 20 wines for summer Five tips for summer drinking from Natalie Earl, and Decanter team picks to stock up on
• South American blends Get to know the new and exciting blends coming out of the region with Ines Salpico
• Vintage report: Barolo 2022 Michaela Morris reports on a tricky vintage in Piedmont
• The lure of Italy Lisa Cardelli meets five winemakers who left Australia and New Zealand for a life in Italy
• Chiroubles This top Beaujolais cru is struggling despite the high quality of its wines, says Natasha Hughes MW
• Material benefit Winemakers are increasingly turning to inert vessels such as glass. Joel Hart explores the attraction, and the impact on the wines
• Forgotten France: Côtes du Forez Chris Howard on a little-known corner of the Loire where Gamay rules
• My other passion: Freediving Haysley MacDonald of te Pā Wines takes Marianna Hunt seafood hunting

Spirits

• Distilled Spirits news & cocktails
• Strong minded Carissa Chesanek samples higher-proof tequila blancos

Food & travel

• What to pair with picky bits Neil Ridley preps you for picnic season
• Travel: Western Slovenia wine tour on two wheels Chris Boiling hits the saddle (of an e-bike – it’s hilly!)

Learning

• Books etc Sophie Thorpe recommends Thirst by John Robins
• Wine wisdom Expert advice to help you on your ongoing wine journey

Buying guide

• Introduction
• Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings
• Panel tasting: North Italian Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigios with character, especially the ramato styles: 61 wines tasted, 3 rated Outstanding
• Panel tasting: Vintage Cap Classique South African traditional-method fizz with class, and often great value: 51 wines tasted, 2 rated Outstanding
• Expert’s choice: New Zealand aromatic whites Emma Jenkins MW picks out a varied selection of 18 great buys: Pinot Gris, Riesling and beyond
• Weekday wines Decanter’s tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink now and priced at £30 or less
• Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress
• DWWA 2026 Success for English wine at DWWA 2026 reflects the upward trajectory of the category

Collecting & investing

• Marketwatch Auction news and new releases
• Bordeaux 2025 en primeur Market reaction

Regulars

• Writing this month Meet four of the authors who contributed to this issue
• News The latest from the wine world
• The brief Ideas and inspiration
• Andrew Jefford’s column
• Katherine Cole’s column
• Guest column Ned Goodwin MW on tasting the last remaining bottle of Romanée-Conti 1899 (lucky guy...)
• The ethical drinker Natalie Earl on how a former British Gas MD helped set up an off-grid winery in Spain
• Decanter Wine Photography Competition 2026 Enter your best wine pics to win some amazing prizes
• Subscribe to Decanter
• On the rack: Sam Neill Lucy Shaw interviews the New Zealand-based Hollywood actor turned winemaker

Rioja Guide 2026

Welcome to Rioja

Leader by Ines Salpico, regional editor for Spain

Here we are again, one year on! Forget about Botox, Ozempic, vitamin B, retinol or hyaluronic acid – if you need an infusion of life-affirming, rejuvenating optimism and grit, book yourself a trip to Rioja.

I wouldn’t blame you if you asked what the point is of tasting 500 or more wines every year – without even knowing what they are. Well, less than the duty of reporting on a year’s worth of new releases, the colossal exercise allows us to reset our focus and energy levels.

We might get tired but we never get bored; tasting for our Rioja report is always fun, interesting and eye-opening.

Every year our sense of wonder is renewed. Wow, these folks are making great wines, working hard, questioning their own assumptions.

The sense of wonder is amplified and coloured by the equally interesting and passionate people we meet. Like 93-year-old Eladio (pictured above), whose joy and mischievous charm certainly made me feel old!

The world is a complex place to be alive in at the moment. But life can be so simple. It just takes passion, companionship and work ethics – characteristics that seem notoriously to be lacking among our current political classes, but can be found in abundance in the people behind each of the wines we tasted for this year’s Rioja report – from producers to winery staff and field workers.

Spending time with them is both a privilege and an inspiration. I invite you to explore our report and the various other features in this guide with this in mind.

In the end, land and people are all that matter. And all that we really have. Salud!

PS: A huge shout-out to photographer Abel Valdenebro, who spent an intense week accompanying me and my co-taster Beth Willard (see p12) on very different, but equally demanding assignments. His sense of humour and endurance might just have surpassed ours. Meanwhile, his talent and sharp eye are on full display on this guide’s pages.

See what's inside our Rioja guide 2026

• Welcome Decanter’s Spain Editor Ines Salpico on the joy that is Rioja
• A talented team A spotlight on four of this year’s contributors
• Four seasons in Rioja There are activities on offer here year round, says Noah Chichester – whether it’s skiing the slopes or spraying red wine around
• Latest release tasting report More than 540 wines were tasted by Ines Salpico and Beth Willard for this year’s report. Read their expert analysis and recommendations across all styles
• On top form Ines picks five standout performers from this year’s tastings
• Busy bees: A day in the life of a bodeguero Ines Salpico tries to keep up with two of the region’s leading winery general managers
• Sweet memories Noah Chichester meets Miguel Martínez, who revived an almost forgotten sweet style of Rioja
• The changing face of classic Rioja Beth Willard shows that the region’s historic names aren’t stuck in the past
• Seven days of Rioja, matched with dishes by José Pizarro The top chef suggests food matches for a week’s worth of affordable Rioja wines
• Stepping up Amaya Cervera on VIR, an exciting collective of small estates, and the groups that inspired them
• Where to stay in Rioja Fintan Kerr has options for every type of traveller

Subscribe to Decanter print magazine and enjoy great savings today

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Sunny summer days mean it’s time for seafood, but which wine to choose? Here are some golden rules – and refreshingly offbeat pairing suggestions.

How to choose a wine to pair with seafood: Advice from sommeliers

Remember the sauce

Chablis with fish, claret with meat – haven’t we come a long way since then? The seafood and wine pairings on offer from sommeliers these days range from Junmai Daiginjo sake to fino Sherry and from Georgian orange wines to bright, cherry-packed Sicilian Frappato.

There’s method in their madness, of course, with tried and tested matches adding another layer of complexity and flavour to your seafood feast, each enhancing the other – or at least that’s the theory.

There are some rules to follow, of course. There’s no point ruining a fine white Burgundy with a fat Hebridean scallop dressed with a vinegar-spiked beurre blanc when an off-dry Riesling will deliver just the right zingy balance, the sweetness riffing with the sauce.

So, there’s rule number one: match the wine with the sauce rather than the protein.

Think about acidity, weight and texture

Riffing with wine and food is something Fabio De Nicola embraces. The sommelier at Italian seafood restaurant Baccalà near London Bridge often likes to create balance through contrast.

‘For example, using high acidity to cut through richer or oily fish, or saline and mineral notes to highlight freshness and natural sweetness,’ he says, while pairing a vibrant yet creamy 2020 Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva from Casa Lucciola with a main of grilled prawns and squid with black lime and bitter greens.

Charlie Edwards agrees. Until recently the food and beverage director at Tom Brown at The Capital in London’s Knightsbridge, which was awarded its first Michelin star this year for its creative menu, Edwards believes you should always consider acidity when it comes to matching seafood and wine.

‘Acidity keeps things clean and bright,’ he says. ‘Shellfish and meatier fish often sit beautifully with wines that have a bit more body and mineral tension, like a Chardonnay from Burgundy, whereas lean white fish really shines alongside crisp, aromatic styles.

‘And look at the weight and texture of the dish,’ he adds. ‘Lighter, delicately cooked seafood tends to work best with fresh, precise wines that won’t overwhelm it, while richer dishes – whether that richness comes from the fish or the sauce – can take something with more depth.’

How has your seafood been cooked?

Another thing to consider is the cooking technique, says Marcello Colletti, sommelier at London’s swankiest new seafood restaurant opening, Lilibet’s in Mayfair.

‘If your fish is grilled, that introduces a smoky element, so think light reds such as Chilean País, Jura Poulsard or Oregon Pinot Noir. Or if the fish is pan-fried in butter, then look at rich Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc.’

Seafood with sake

And when you’re struggling to find that perfect match for your seafood dish? Consider sake, suggests Michele Orbolato head of wine and sake at London Japanese fine dining restaurant Luna Omakase.

‘Certain styles of sake contain umami, which gives them broader and more flexible pairing options with seafood,’ he says. ‘This allows sake to complement textures and flavours that can sometimes challenge wine.’

The preferred pairing for Luna’s ambrosial signature dish O-Toro tartare – bluefin tuna belly tartare, aged wasabi and caviar? A sparkling sake. ‘Masumi’s Origarami works beautifully with the dish, offering delicacy, freshness and gentle palate-cleansing qualities,’ enthuses Orbolato.

Keeping it simple

Want to keep it simple? Then stick to the well-trodden path of pairing coastal wines with seafood dishes – hello, Txakoli and the like. And if you’re stuck with what’s on offer at the local supermarket, there’s always good old Albariño – it works every time.

Five great wine and seafood pairings to try

Native oysters with vintage blanc de blanc Champagne

The richness of the Chardonnay matches the meatiness of the oyster, while the oxidative qualities of the ageing contrast with the salinity.

Fish & chips with manzanilla Sherry

You can’t beat a light, fresh manzanilla Sherry with fish and chips – served chilled, its bone-dry, salty, zesty profile cuts through the rich batter and even stands up to the vinegar

Grilled sardines with Assyrtiko

A punchy fish, especially when barbecued and doused in lemon, needs a punchy coastal wine with lots of citrussy acidity to cut through the oiliness and smoke – step forward Santorini Assyrtiko.

Turbot pil-pil with Godello

A recent discovery – high-acidity, minerally, aromatic Galician Godello easily stands up to the now-popular rich, garlicky Basque sauce.

Seafood platter with English sparkling wine

With its racy acidity and distinctive flinty minerality, English fizz shines served with towering tiers of simply cooked seafood.

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A celebratory July 1 Canada Day table in British Columbia is a sight to be seen.

There might be spot prawns piled onto a platter beside a bowl of strawberries. Cedar-planked salmon comes off the grill while someone else flips burgers.

Corn is rolled in butter. A bag of ketchup chips appears from nowhere. Later, there's a butter tart on a paper plate.

It's a chaotic menu by wine-pairing standards, but wines from Canada’s westernmost province of British Columbia (BC) handle it because of one thing: acidity.

Freshness has built BC's international wine reputation, and it's also what makes the wines useful at the table.

Canadian summer food tends to be rich, smoky, sweet, and salty, often all at once. Bright acidity doesn't fight those flavours, it keeps up with them.

'What goes together grows together,' says Okanagan Valley native Ned Bell, one of Canada’s best-known chefs and co-owner of Hatch Hospitality in Vancouver.

Across the board, 'BC's climate gives our wines an acidity and freshness that work beautifully with food,' Bell adds.

Seasonal food that hits the spot

Take spot prawns – the large Pacific Ocean crustacean prized for its lobster-like sweetness and delicate buttery texture.

For a few weeks each spring, they're the most anticipated ingredient on Canada's west coast – restaurants build menus around them, fishmongers sell out.

‘Wild BC spot prawns signal that summer is on its way,’ says Bell. ‘They kick off an incredible parade of seasonal ingredients, from strawberries and raspberries to sweet corn, cherries, apricots, and peaches, each arriving in its own perfect time.’

The excitement surrounding spot prawn season says something about Canadian summer food.

Despite the country's reputation for hearty fare, the best warm-weather meals are often built around fresh fish and produce; ingredients that taste best when they're barely touched.

BC wine matches that instinct almost exactly. ‘The focus is on style and texture, with acidity playing a key role across all wines,’ says Bram Bolwijn, guest and VIP experience manager with Iconic Wineries of BC.

That same acidity that flatters shellfish also holds up to the grill – and Canadian summer cooking loves a grill.

Open-fire grilling, fresh produce – and rosé

Cedar-planked salmon remains one of the country's most iconic warm-weather dishes.

The technique originates with Indigenous nations along the Pacific coast – including the Squamish, Tsilhqot'in, and Haida – who cooked salmon over open fire on cedar planks, drawing on cedar's deep cultural significance in coastal life.

Elsewhere, burgers, sausages, and steaks become the centrepiece of backyard gatherings.

Ask Joshua Bauerlein, estate chef at Liquidity Wines in Okanagan Falls, what a real Canadian summer meal looks like and his answer isn't particularly complicated.

‘Grilled game and burgers. Mixed with fresh seasonal produce like Okanagan peaches and sweet corn, and cold, refreshing sides.’

Bauerlein’s answer raises the obvious question: what wine goes with all of this? ‘Rain or shine, I love a good Cabernet Franc rosé,’ he says.

Rosé zeroes in on the middle ground. It has enough freshness for salads and seasonal vegetables, enough fruit for burgers, and enough character to stand up to smoky flavours.

‘Cab Franc's bright acidic and often herbal structure helps cut through the richness of game while highlighting the earthy and savoury notes from the grill,’ adds Bauerlein.

Diversity and freshness

That willingness to surprise is why other parts of the world are now paying attention to the wines from Canada’s west coast.

BC produces everything from traditional-method sparkling wine and aromatic whites to vast ranges in red wines and rosé, and let’s not forget ice wine. Few regions offer such a mixed bag while maintaining a consistent sense of freshness.

For international drinkers discovering BC wine for the first time, Bolwijn believes geography may attract attention, but it isn't what keeps people interested.

‘The Okanagan Valley's location begins the conversation: quality and the way we present our wines build our reputation, through a region that is defined by diversity.’

That diversity is particularly useful on Canada Day, when the menu rarely sticks to one theme. Seafood shares space with grilled meats. Farmers' market produce sits beside potato chips. Dessert appears long before anyone is actually hungry.

Wines that make sense

Which brings us to the butter tart: a uniquely Canadian dessert of brown sugar, often maple syrup and, yes, lots of butter, that tastes similar to pecan pie without the pecans.

Ice wine carries a reputation as a special-occasion pour – more likely to be offered to visitors than poured on a random Tuesday. Yet few wines make more sense alongside a butter tart.

The dessert is rich, intensely sweet, and unapologetically indulgent. A dry wine can feel harsh by comparison. Ice wine to the rescue; matching the tart where it is, while acidity prevents the pairing from becoming cloying.

That's the thing about BC wine. It doesn't need a carefully planned tasting menu to make sense.

Give it spot prawns, salmon, burgers, corn, or dessert. Give it the slightly chaotic spread that appears on Canadian tables every summer. More often than not, it finds a way to fit in.

10 BC wines to pair with Canadian summer dishes

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Costco's buying weight gives it access to everything from blue-chip Napa Valley estates to little-known labels sourced from coveted vineyards, and some great-value offerings we explore below.

We're all bargain hunters at heart. I might be the worst among you.

Because of my job, most of the 3,500-plus wines I taste each year are sent to me as samples.

So when it comes time to actually put my own money behind my recommendations, I'm keen to achieve three things.

The first is easy: I set my sights on a wine I know will be absolutely delicious. So delicious, in fact, that I can't rest until the bottle is empty.

The second is provenance. Where will this wine I'm buying come from? The winery itself? A retail shop? Online? A restaurant wine list?

Whatever the case, I need to know that the bottle has been properly cared for and protected from heat damage or years spent standing upright.

Finally, the price must match the quality.

I'll pay $100 for a Chardonnay. I'll spend more on Cabernet Sauvignon. I'll turn a blind eye to what I spend on Pinot Noir and Champagne.

But every now and then, I volunteer to battle the crowds for household essentials at my local Costco just so I can peruse the wine selection for a screaming deal of a wine, somewhere south of $50. Ideally, well south.

Inevitably, what happens is I’ll find those sub-$50, or sub-$25 deals, but on more occasions than I’d like to admit, I've walked out positively giddy over what I spent on bottles of Dom Pérignon, Cristal, and Château Pontet-Canet. Just as giddy over the six bottles of $12.99 Napa Sauvignon Blanc I bought.

Sworn to secrecy

Then there are the Napa Valley bargains that I know perhaps a little too much about — particularly the fruit sources.

All too often, when a producer is pouring a wine they believe will eventually land in a Costco bin, they'll quietly hint at the coveted vineyard source behind it, usually protected by a non-disclosure agreement.

My eyes nearly pop out of my head when I hear the price.

"Wait. That fruit, in that bottle, costs under $30? Under $20?"

"Yeah, but you can't tell anyone," is often the follow-up from the winemaker, vintner, or broker.

"Well, let me know when it hits the shelves," is usually my curt response.

This happens a lot in Napa Valley. There's simply too much of a good thing.

Great vineyards produce more fruit than the market can always absorb, and that fruit often finds its way into private labels or special bottlings made exclusively for Costco.

After all, Costco currently operates 923 warehouses, including 633 in the United States.

With that kind of nationwide footprint, they can buy at scale, creating ample opportunities for Costco to strike bargains it can pass along to consumers.

That even goes for some of Napa’s iconic labels that end up in the bins—blue-chip estates that even I’ve spotted at my local Costco in Novato, California, including a three-pack of Screaming Eagle, bottles of Opus One, and Shafer.

Or wines crafted by 100-point winemakers such as Thomas Rivers Brown (see the Caterwaul on my list below) and Benoit Touquette (Teeter-Totter).

So here's my suggestion: head to your local Costco and ask for the person who manages the wine inventory.

If you get them on the floor, tell them what styles of wine you typically enjoy and ask them to point you toward one of the best Napa bargains currently in the store.

The bottles on this list are wines I've found in Costco locations throughout the San Francisco Bay Area.

That doesn't mean you'll find every one of them at your local warehouse, and even if you do, they may not be there for long.

For now, see if you can get your hands on these eight bargains at a Costco near you. Happy hunting.

Cristaldi's Eight Napa value picks at Costco

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It’s a season where most of us will have at least one bottle of white chilling in the fridge. But while summer always sees an expected surge in white wine sales, the category maintains a surprisingly significant market share year round.

Sales data tracked by online retailer vino.com shows white wine volume share peaking at an average of 32% of total wine sales in July/August, but holding strong at 20% even in January.

Red wine, in contrast, plummets from a 52% share in January to 24% in July.

According to OIV data reported by Decanter in December 2023, white wine consumption grew by 10% globally over two decades – driven largely by an increased demand for sparkling wine – yet global red wine consumption had declined by 15% since its peak in 2007.

It also found that the US is the world's largest consumer of white wine. US white wine consumption rose by as much as 65% between 2000 and 2021, a trajectory that spans all four seasons.

So how well do you know your white grape varieties beyond the usual suspects?

A handful of dominant grapes rule the supermarket shelves, but they represent a fraction of what’s out there. We know that Decanter readers enjoy embracing new grapes and styles, so test your knowledge with our 12-question white grape variety quiz, and do us proud!

Take Decanter's white grapes quiz

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The 2009 Bordeaux vintage has lost none of its power to charm and captivate.

A recent tasting in Atlanta showed that most of these wines are still in their first blush of youth, and the best will live for decades.

The intervening years have only confirmed what we suspected even on release – this is among the epochal vintages from Bordeaux.

It represents a turning point in the wines of Bordeaux in so many ways – the warming climate, the changing styles, the fashion for the wines – yet 2009 stands alone.

The chance to revisit these wines was exciting for all the tasters. Michael Davis, principal at Hart Davis Hart auction house in the US, expressed it best when he said that for him 2009 was 'joyful and expressive'.

The alluring 2009 style

There were several top-flight vintages in the first decade of the new century, beginning with superb millennial vintage, the almost unbearably hot 2003 that delivered sybaritic delights; the monumental 2005, still tannic and not yet ready to drink, with the charming 2006 and 2008 just behind.

There are many wine lovers, however, who would argue that the finest vintage of the decade was 2009. The wines are voluptuous, accessible, and hedonistic, yet structured enough to last.

It occurred to me while tasting through these two dozen wines that 2009 resembles the wines from 1982, and I began to think of 2009 as an updated version of 1982 – almost a ‘1982.2’.

The wines in general are substantial and have abundant extract; lots of tannin yet no astringency; enough acidity to give definition but not so much as to make them hard or unyielding; and a sweet, ripe character to the fruit with no sense of it being baked or over-ripe.

The secret to the seductive nature of the fruit in 2009 is that the vines never shut down during the growing season, as they do in the face of excessive heat or drought.

There was just enough water in July and August to keep the vines ripening the fruit throughout the season, and while there were hot days (and plenty of sunshine), the grapes did not suffer the excessive heat spikes that they saw in 2000 or 2003.

The weather behind the magic

The year got off to an appropriate start with a cold, wet winter that plunged the vines into dormancy, refilled the water table, ensuring that budbreak didn't start too early.

There was no hint of spring frost, and although there was a hail storm on 11 May, it did not damage the best vines.

Flowering happened early and finished quickly, setting a large crop on the vines. Crucially, the growing season was hot and sunny, but not so much as to interrupt the grapes gentle ripening.

The region saw moderate rainfall on 18, 19, and 20 September, but there was no further rain until the harvest was complete.

The key to success was to wait until after the rain to pick the Merlot, and to wait until the Cabernet was fully ripe, beginning in mid-October.

Because of the gentle nature of the growing season, the vines ripened to levels not often seen in Bordeaux – mostly over 14% on the Left Bank and up to (and sometimes beyond) 15% on the Right Bank.

If picked at the right time, both Cabernet and Merlot were successful.

Because of the lush, forward character these conditions delivered, these powerful wines are beginning to open up now.

While it is not too early to pull some corks, the best of these wines should continue to improve for decades to come.

From boom to bargain: The market context

When the 2009 vintage came to market, the world was in love with Bordeaux wine. Demand was booming in Asia, and the 2008 financial crisis was disappearing in the rear window.

With consumers in the UK, US, and Hong Kong all avidly chasing top Bordeaux wines, the 2009 primeurs offers were optimistic, and prices seemed dear indeed.

In the intervening 15 years since this primeurs campaign, however, much has changed – Bordeaux wines have lost some of their shine, the global wine market is depressed, and producers are sitting on significant stocks.

As a consequence, prices for these sumptuous wines have not increased greatly, and are, in some cases, lower today than they were upon release.

For a buyer looking for immediate pleasure, long-term cellaring potential, and perhaps smart appreciation, the 2009 vintage represents a wonderful opportunity.

Standout performers

Among the delights of the tasting were second growths that were drinking like firsts, particularly Léoville-Las Cases, Léoville-Poyferré, Pichon-Baron and Gruaud-Larose (as well as perennial overachieving fifth growth Pontet-Canet).

There were also strong performances further down the price ladder like Poujeaux and Malescot-Saint-Exupéry.

Although were some disappointments – I felt that both Lynch-Bages and Pavie should have done better given the conditions – the best wines of the vintage are classics that will long outlive most of us, particularly Margaux and Lafite, with Cheval, Mouton, and La Mission Haut-Brion not far behind.

Bordeaux 2009: 24 top wines from this epochal vintage

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If you haven’t experienced the refreshing glory of a chilled Spanish red, you’re yet to fully understand some of the country’s most seductive, drinkable and authentic wines – and to fully discover the multifaceted, energetic essence of the country’s wine culture.

Before Spain’s wine industry was taken over by a necessary, but in some cases destructive, professionalisation, many Spanish reds were far removed from the deep, intense, long-lived, single-varietal examples for which the country has become known.

Crisp, juicy field blends – low in alcohol and full of flavour and energy – abounded.

These were true low-intervention wines, produced with little if any machinery, following the rhythm of the days and the whims of wild yeasts.

Most were wines made for own consumption – quenching pours that provided sustenance and a safe source of hydration throughout the working day, helping to soften the edges of a life of hard labour, poor living conditions and little if any pay.

They were often carried in botas (traditional leather wineskins) by field workers and cosecheros (harvesters), and enjoyed alongside a simple lunch of bread, olives and charcuterie.

And small glasses were poured direct from the barrel (properly chilled at cellar temperature) when neighbours stopped by for an evening chat – before heading next door for more wine and more gossip.

Back to the future

Not merely a style, lighter Spanish reds evoke another time, another pace of life, another way of socialising; one that’s more in tune – financial and social hardship notwithstanding – with the rhythms of nature and of oneself.

They also evoke a scenery that isn’t dominated by large swaths of mono-clonal vineyards, instead formed by a patchwork of co-planted indigenous varieties, where red-, white- and pink-skinned grapes coexisted.

Today, there’s renewed interest in these wines, whose levity appeals to those seeking elegance, freshness, immediate appeal and lower alcohol, as well as a more complete, layered understanding of Spanish wine history, where small growers, old vineyards and maverick producers play central roles.

Discovering the crunchier, quenching side of Spanish reds is an opportunity to engage with a palette of grape varieties and winemaking approaches that preceded the modern understanding of Spanish (commercial) winemaking.

They’re important symbols of the movement that, since the turn of the 20th century, has upended simplistic beliefs of what Spanish wine should be, forming the different swells of ‘New Wave Spain’: from the great Garnacha revival to the fascination with the volcanic-spirited wines of the Canary islands, by way of the recovery of quasi-abandoned, gnarly field blends and the renewed enjoyment of so-called cosechero wines – the carbonic maceration reds that nurtured harvesters and fuelled harvest fests.

What was old is new

More than catering to a different, predominantly younger demographic, these wines also offer clues to the future of Spanish wine from a technical standpoint.

With climate change looming large, the grapes that were once difficult to ripen are now the key for lower-abv, fresher wines; the ancient, low-yielding vines – once neglected in favour of newly planted, mechanised vineyards – are now important assets that offer lessons on drought and virus resistance.

But beyond any historical or scientific arguments, these wines deserve attention (and fridge space) first and foremost because they’re delicious, alluring and extremely versatile.

By playing with serving temperature you’ll get different textures and dominant aromas, with different presentation of tannins suggesting alternative food pairings.

Chillable Spanish reds

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With the group stages finished we're into the real hurly-burly of the World Cup and its knockout stages.

Unlike a few occasions in this much larger competition, from now on every goal, every game – and every wine recommendation – carries the sweet tang of jeopardy.

We've already said goodbye to a few of our 'wine teams', notably:

Uruguay: A rather flat-footed finish for the Uruguayans who exit in round one despite Ines' excellent wine proposals.

Turkey: Izzy tried her best but it was a frustrating experience for the Turks who only won when they were already eliminated.

New Zealand: Great wine country as Natalie endeavoured to show, but a little lacking in the football department. Early doors for the All Whites who'll have to drown their sorrows with Sauvignon Blanc back home.

South Africa: James' fine South African recommendations undoubtedly lifted Bafana Bafana into the knockouts but – without a wine pairing due to the scheduling – they fell at the first hurdle against Tina's wine team, Canada.

However, although we are down a few teams, all of our participants are still in the game with at least one wine team still active and in with a chance.

An uptick in the footballing stakes means a corresponding uptick in skilful wine pairing and selections as well.

In this round of 32 there's everything from Argentine Semillon to a high-class Douro Valley red, and a sweet Swiss wine, we pair earthy Burgundian Pinot Noir with meatballs, and go back to classic German precision and a slightly more unusual Australian red...

And if you feel the need for some... actual football analysis during this World Cup, do check in on our friends and colleagues over at FourFourTwo for all their updates and coverage.

Ines: Spain

Spain (vs Austria): Right, there’s no more room for hesitations and mistakes.

Spain meets Austria at the gates of the knock-out stage – after a narrow win against Uruguay – without the shimmering assurance with which it glowed when it arrived at its base camp in Chattanooga, Tennessee in early June.

If La Roja wants to get back on the likely-champion track it needs to step up the game and not underestimate its opponents.

People once underestimated Austrian wines and look at them now, with pride of place on the world’s coolest wine bars and lists. There’s a lesson there for Spanish footballers.

But Spain also knows a thing or two about overlooked, hidden gems and unexpected excellence.

The Spanish team will be fine if they perform as well as Stratum Wines’ El Cerrico, a truly superb white from a region (Jumilla) underestimated by most and unknown by many.

A take of the unassuming Airén that is confident, characterful and technically exact – just what a champion needs to be.

Julie: Argentina & Australia

Argentina (vs Cape Verde): Plucky underdogs Cape Verde have been one of this World Cup’s great stories but their run must surely end against a very strong Argentine side.

Having jogged through the group stages, Messi & co will no doubt stay clinical and efficient in muggy Miami.

Matching the complexity of the brilliant striker’s footwork and staying cool in the process, tuck into one of Argentina’s most underrated assets – its white wines.

The El Enemigo Semillon from the province of Mendoza is ‘another little gem in the Tesco range’, available for under £20 and shows all the same complexity, richness and capacity to age as Lionel himself.

Australia (vs Egypt): The Socceroos’ faintly scattergun performance in the group stages was enough to see them through and now they get to meet Egypt, the group-stage foe of their fellow Antipodeans the Kiwis.

The Pharaohs saw off New Zealand 3-1 in Group G, can Australia provide more of a contest? It’s going to take pace, power, a bit of grit, and maybe something just a little bit unexpected.

Why not, therefore, a bottle of incredibly moreish Australian Montepulciano?

That’s right, not a Shiraz or a Cab or a Grenache but this Italian variety, its fresh fruit ‘tinged with dried rose petal and savoury herbs’ and just ‘a hint of liquorice spice’.

James: Portugal

Portugal (vs Croatia): Portugal and Croatia clash at Toronto Stadium in what will potentially be the most emotionally charged fixture in the first knockout round.

Portugal missed out on the top spot in Group K after only managing a draw against Colombia. Meanwhile, Group L runners up Croatia rallied to defeat Ghana 2-1, dragging themselves up from what was looking like a third-place finish in England's group.

Facing off against each other in this match are superstars Cristiano Ronaldo (41) and Luka Modrić (40), former Real Madrid teammates who will each stop at nothing to see their respective teams make it through to the next round of the World Cup, where they will face either Spain or Austria.

Prats & Symington's 'Chryseia' from Portugal's Douro Valley is a layered and complex wine that mirrors the finessed football you're bound to see on your screens during this fixture.

Deep and gently smoky, it's a perfect match for all sorts of grilled meats and root vegetables.

Natalie: Germany

Germany (vs Paraguay): With their knockout berth already guaranteed, Germany looked a little sleepy and lacklustre in a surprise loss to Ecuador in their last group game.

Time to sharpen up now against another South American opponent, and with a potential clash against France on the cards next, die Mannschaft need to get their heads back in the game.

And what better way than going back to a tried and tested classic? This Mosel Riesling from Fritz Haag delivers timeless German precision, delicately balancing a natural sweetness and rich, tropical fruit flavours with a refreshing acidity.

Deft, assured and impressive, so wie der wein, so wie der fußball.

Tina: Croatia & Canada

Croatia (vs Portugal): Croatia haven’t made it easy for themselves so far, with an opening loss to England and then a lacklustre win against Panama.

But they showed some tenacity and flair in their final game against Ghana, thanks to Man of the Match Petar Sucic and a last-gasp winner from Nikola Vlasic to take them to second in Group L.

This wine nation head-to-head against Portugal requires all that persistence and finesse, and then some.

So for that, let’s go for a Malvazija from Istria. Or how about a Platinum-winning brace from this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards, if you think that’s what the winning margin might be?

Bastiàn’s 2023 Marchiori is described as ‘thrilling’ and ‘elegant’, but I’m leaning towards Bruno Ferenac’s 2024, which has ‘striking’ acidity and ‘great ageing potential displayed’.

That’s Luka Modrić right there!

Rupert: France & Austria

France (vs Sweden): France cruised past Norway in their final group game, with the Norwegian manager choosing not to put up much of a fight and benching most of his top players.

France get another crack at a Scandinavian opponent in the knockout round though, against Group F’s third-place finisher Sweden. And playing Sweden in New York means only one thing – meatballs (with a chance of football)!

Now, like many wine pairings, it’s the sauce that we’re really trying to match. Italian-style meatballs with their rich tomato sauce require a red wine with matching acidity – a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley would be a solid choice.

However, Swedish meatballs have a cream sauce which really calls for a Pinot Noir.

It’s still a little early to be really pushing the boat out on Burgundy but Denis Carré’s La Perrière from the Hautes Côtes with its ‘hints of earth, spice, and smoke’, and a silky but solid structure sounds like a very good match-up.

Austria (vs Spain): Austria showed they were capable of dishing out goals in the group matches but they struggled against top-class competitors Argentina.

Now they’re up against Spain, who didn’t seem quite as on-pace as many expected pre-tournament.

If Austria can unfurl its goal-scoring potential maybe a shock upset could be on the cards…

And nothing in Austrian wine is more unfurled than the splendidly baroque labels of Emmerich Knoll.

Maybe it's a little too soon to be cracking into a magnificent Smaragd Riesling but this is definitely a winner takes all game from Austria's point of view so it's fitting to go all in on a wine with the requisite 'spice and flair' for the occasion.

Mark: USA & Switzerland

USA (vs Bosnia & Herzegovina): The San Francisco Bay Area Stadium boasts a capacity of 68,500, a suitably impressive arena for a raucous atmosphere and a USA team that seems to have discovered a higher gear.

Bosnia-Herzegovina have already gone further than in their previous and only World Cup appearance in making it out of the groups, but they will be up against it.

Bosnia-Herzegovina’s cuisine is a glorious mish-mash, although stews feature heavily, so it shouldn’t be too challenging rustling one up in their team’s honour and enjoying the result (Team USA!) with a glass or two of the 2023 Clos du Val Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, full of ‘dark purple fruit and black cherries, seasoned by vanilla and coffee’, and a 90-pointer at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards.

Switzerland (vs Iran): The Swiss keep on truckin’, this time laying their hat at BC Place Vancouver in Canada. Here they face Algeria, the two-time African champions making their fifth World Cup appearance and whose manager, Vladimir Petković, previously coached the Swiss – a delicious twist.

Couscous-accompanied stews run through Algerian cuisine, but the country is also renowned for its honey-soaked pastries.

If you’re angling towards the latter, therefore, consider tapping into Switzerland's wonderful reputation for sweet wines, such as the Jean-René Germanier, Mitis Réserve De Vétroz Amigne, Balavaud 2022 from the Valais.

Recently awarded 95 points at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards, and praised for ‘amassing pineapple, mango, passionfruit and papaya on the nose, and binding creamy cardamom and pastry around the delectable palate’.

Izzy: England

England (vs DR Congo): And to the knockouts! England’s first match in this next stage of the competition will be against DR Congo, who have so far put in an impressive performance in their first entry to the World Cup in 52 years, particularly in a 1-1 draw against Portugal.

For a wine to pair with DR Congo’s national dish, hearty tomato stew Moambe chicken, try Mark’s and Spencer’s English Orange wine, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Ortega.

Fermented on skins in a mixture of stainless steel, oak and amphora, this wine has the acidity to cut through the richness of the stew, but with Vermouth-like notes to complement its peanut butter and spicy flavours.

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Old-school or contemporary? Chianti Classico’s wineries argue that 2024 is both.

‘They recall the Chianti Classicos produced in vintages of yesteryear,’ says Monteraponi’s Alessandra Deiana, who describes them as elegant, fine boned and lively.

At the same time, wineries are hopeful that these chillable, chuggable reds will appeal to today’s tastes. ‘It’s what wine drinkers are looking for now’, asserts Paolo Paffi at Casa Emma.

What is the 2024 style?

Stylistically, the 2024 Chianti Classico annatas are slender and frisky, with modest alcohols typically hovering between 12-13%.

Quality, however, is mixed. Those that shone are vivacious, agile and refreshing, exhibiting lovely perfumes and extraordinary lightness with satisfying flavour.

Some are less charming, even a bit angular, while the weakest examples reveal lean and diluted wines with green, unripe tannins.

Embodying the beauty of 2024, Badia a Coltibuono is my top annata. Other highlights include Monteraponi, Jurij Fiore & Figlia’s unoaked Sonocosì, and Principe Corsini’s Villa Le Corti for value.

Viticcio spent less time in wood to allow for an earlier release and is all the better for it. Both San Giusto a Rentennano and Poggerino show a bit more density and structure relative to their counterparts without forsaking the identity of the vintage.

While the annata category is often a treasure trove of wines that overdeliver, this is less prevalent in 2024. Even so, most sit comfortably and modishly within their station.

I am less inclined to put away a few bottles ‘for science’ as I often do; instead, it is a vintage for immediate and uninhibited drinking.

For those – like me – who love lithe sprightly reds, the vintage’s successes are worth buying. Who knows when a profile like 2024 will come around again?

Clinging on to organics

Chianti Classico 2024: Vintage in depth

The 2024 vintage of Chianti Classico is certainly unlike any other in the last decade. A wet spring, followed by the dry and progressively hot summer somewhat resembled 2023.

September and October, however, were marked by cool temperatures and unremitting rain, the likes of which growers had not seen in years.

‘That extended ripening cycle gave us lower alcohol, brighter acidity, and a freshness and luminosity in the wines that I find genuinely exciting,’ raves Roberto Stucchi at Badia a Coltibuono.

While many echo his enthusiasm, others are less convinced. Matteo Buccerelli at Antico Podere Casanova decided against bottling a Chianti Classico altogether, claiming that the wine is ‘too thin’.

By all accounts, the growing season was gruelling. The wet spring brought high disease pressure, and after devastating losses to peronospora (downy mildew) in 2023, agronomist teams were extra vigilant about staying on top of spraying.

The vines rebounded from the low yields of 2023 with a bumper crop. The Chianti Classico consorzio reports a total production of 305,000 hectolitres in 2024, which is 50% more than 2023, and the highest since 2019.

At San Giusto a Rentennano, Luca Martini di Cigala says that green harvesting was ‘fundamental’ to achieving full ripeness.

He dropped 25-30% of bunches between July and August, and another 10-12% at the beginning of September. ‘Too often, grape thinning is done too late or not at all,’ he emphasises.

The heavy loads were exacerbated by the rain in September, which plumped up berries and slowed ripening, particularly in areas with less sun exposure. The once common practice of deleafing became vital again.

According to several growers, achieving phenolic ripeness was a challenge, especially in vineyards where the summer heat had blocked photosynthesis. However, waiting for ripeness increased the risk of rot.

The long and onerous harvest lasted well into October and required multiple passages in between downpours.

Thin, delicate skins demanded gentle vinifications. Winemakers cited everything from less pumping over, avoiding punching down and shorter macerations.

The latter was also due to logistics, as there were just so many grapes to vinify – estates scrambled to get their hands on more vats to deal with the surfeit.

‘2024 was undoubtedly difficult to manage, and costlier compared to other years,’ says Angela Fronti at Istine. ‘Nevertheless, it was highly rewarding in the end.’

Read the rest of Michaela's Chianti Classico analysis:

Late release – A look at the 2023s

Michaela's pick of Chianti Classico 2024 (& late releases)

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Elevated from Riserva to Gran Selezione for the 2023 vintage, Maurizio Alongi’s standout Vigna Barbischio proudly touts the UGA (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive) of Gaiole – one of eight subzones now permitted on Gran Selezione labels.

Similarly, Cigliano di Sopra has debuted its first ever Gran Selezione, from a single vineyard in San Casciano planted in 2016.

Maddalena Fucile admits that it’s unusual to declare this lofty status for fledging vines – for context, the estate’s Riserva features 50-year-old plantings.

‘If a vineyard is born with the right stuff, it can be a Gran Selezione even from its youth,’ she reasons.

I was also charmed by Il Poggiolino’s resinous Le Balze and Poggio al Sole’s glossy Casasilia. Both hail from San Donato in Poggio and offer satisfying drinking over the next decade.

As the majority of 2023 Gran Seleziones won’t be released until at least next year, I will reserve final judgement for now – however, several estates including Tregole and Castello di Ama have already indicated that they will skip the vintage for their Gran Selezione.

And while Rocca delle Macìe did produce its Fizzano Il Crocino label, the family chose to use the fruit from their prized plot usually destined for their flagship Sergio Zingarelli bottling in the Riserva instead.

2022 and 2021: Perfect scores and changing rules

The 2022 and 2021 Gran Selezione releases cast a brilliant spotlight on the classification, offering cellarworthy gems promising 10 to 15 years of evolution.

Notably, Castello di Ama’s magnificent Bellavista 2022 earns the distinction of receiving my first ever 100-point score for a Chianti Classico.

Enjoy its longstanding signature blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Malvasia Nera while it lasts, as it will soon be tweaked to conform with revised regulations due to come into effect for the 2027 vintage, which stipulate a minimum of 90% Sangiovese.

Furthermore, because the updated protocol for Gran Selezione will prohibit Merlot altogether, the estate has withdrawn its La Casuccia bottling from the Chianti Classico denomination as of the 2022 vintage.

An 80/20 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, it is now labelled as a Toscana IGT.

Marco Pallanti, who launched the wine in 1985 and was instrumental in establishing the Gran Selezione category, expresses regret.

‘I have always believed that the best wines of the zone should be Chianti Classico,’ he states. While a loss for the denomination, La Casuccia will find itself in good company among the region’s exceptional Super Tuscans.

The majority of Gran Seleziones today are made exclusively from Sangiovese, having been conceived relatively recently or evolved with foresight of the category’s direction.

Castello di Fonterutoli’s Badiòla is one such example, and rings out in 2022 as a clear reference point for Radda’s cool, radiant and racy profile.

Expanding horizons & new projects

Fully embracing the UGA endeavour, Antinori’s new trio of Gran Selezione from San Casciano, Castellina and Gaiole shine for the second consecutive year.

In other news, the company announced that it has taken over management of Castello di Cacchiano, a historic property once part of the original Ricasoli empire. Expect a facelift there.

With the 2022 vintage, Fèlsina marks its 60th anniversary. Throughout this time, the Poggiali family have been steadfast champions of Sangiovese.

Their Colonia wonderfully captures the wild, earthy sunbaked allure of Castelnuovo Berardegna.

From the same UGA, San Felice’s second vintage of La Pieve combines structural and fruit richness in an approachable package.

Now under the direction of Carlo De Biasi, San Felice is embracing regenerative agriculture. Through the LIFE VitiCaSe project, they have established four pilot vineyards, in collaboration with Castello di Albola and Tenute Ruffino, serving as an educational hub for improving soil health and increasing carbon capture capacity.

Other noteworthy nascent Gran Selezione bottlings from 2022 include Castello di Gabbiano’s Vigneto Cerbaiola, sourced from a single parcel in San Donato in Poggio, and Pomona’s Vigna del Termine.

The latter will eventually bear the UGA of Vagliagli – one of three additional subzones permitted from 2027.

Don't forget the 2022s

Not to be outdone by the 2022s, the late-release 2021s offer as much pleasure as cellaring potential.

Among my personal highlights, Castagnoli’s transportive Salita and Nardi’s effusive Vigna del Pino both wave the flag for the Castellina UGA.

Built for the long term, Castello di Monsanto’s celebrated Vigna Poggio from San Donato in Poggio is outstanding. Likewise, Panzano-based Le Cinciole comes out with its best ever vintage of Aluigi.

Finally, after years in the making, Querciabella has released three new Gran Selezione representing Greve, Radda and – another UGA-in-waiting – Lamole.

‘This was Sebastiano’s dream,’ says long-time winemaker Manfred Ing. However, Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni ceded ownership of the winery to his sister Mita Castiglioni and her son Andrea before seeing the project reach fruition.

The wines are a stunning testament to his legacy, with the Radda bottling getting my top vote.

Ultimately, no single subzone triumphs above the others. Instead, the exciting and diverse wines emanating from across the region serve to reinforce the UGA project, cementing the ongoing commitment of Chianti Classico's top estates to the Gran Selezione category.

Read the rest of Michaela's Chianti Classico analysis:

Michaela's top Gran Selezione released this year

Gran Selezione: Best of the rest

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With a young generation embracing it, and historical estates continuing to defend it, Chianti Classico Riserva remains resilient to the vagaries of vintage, climate and trends.

Even as former Riservas continue to be upgraded to Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico's middle tier is still seeing its share of new wines.

Sofia Ricasoli, who represents the 33rd generation of the region’s most legendary wine family, has chosen Riserva for her one and only Chianti Classico made under her own label.

‘It’s a more historical category than Gran Selezione’, she rationalises. Launched with the 2021 vintage, Innesto means ‘graft’ and references a return to her deep roots after studying and practising law, while at the same time looks toward the future.

Challenges aplenty

Aware but undeterred by the myriad of challenges facing the wine industry today, Ricasoli asserts, ‘The greatest is climate change – more so than market or economic conditions.’

Indeed, climate challenges were front and centre in 2023, with a significant reduction in quantities due to peronospora (downy mildew), hail and drought.

After losing 80% at his Monte Bernardi estate, Michael Schmeltzer essentially folded what are typically three separate bottlings into a single soulful Riserva. Other estates didn’t bottle a Riserva at all.

The Riserva 2023s that were bottled reveal some issues managing ripeness and volatile acidity. Several examples were already fully evolved, contradicting the spirit of the category.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, my top picks come from the region’s cooler pockets: Castello di Querceto in the upper reaches of Greve, Castello di Volpaia in the fresh, forested subdistrict of Radda, and Castellaccio’s Lama dei Cortacci above the hamlet of Lamole at a lofty 700 metres.

I would recommend drinking these over the next five to eight years. San Giusto a Rentennano’s reliably excellent Le Baròncole is an exception and needs more time in bottle.

Chianti Classico's up-and-comers

Read the rest of Michaela's Chianti Classico analysis:

2022 and other late releases

2022 is shaping up to be a far more consistent vintage than 2023. Revisiting some 2022s released last year alongside some 2022s debuting this year reveals a highly successful cohort.

Combining density with grip and zip, they offer a solid decade of drinking potential. Among this year's releases, L'Erta di Radda and Val delle Corti are highlights, while Podere Ferrale is yet another promising new name.

Meanwhile, the category's stalwarts continue to live up to their formidable reputations, highlighted by Castello di Monsanto’s vivacious 2022, Badia a Coltibuono’s refined 2021, and Castell’in Villa’s intricate, age-worthy 2020.

Michaela's pick of Chianti Classico Riserva

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Both 2023 and 2024 had their challenges for winemakers, but that doesn’t mean these vintages are void of great value-for-money wines.

This year’s value picks focus on chillable, quaffable annatas rather than bottles which rise above their station.

But as a reminder that Chianti Classico offers amazing value throughout its ranks, in addition to the entry-level annatas I've also included one Riserva and one Gran Selezione that won’t break the bank.

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I arrived in Burgundy for a two-month stint in late spring of 2024 with only a limited understanding of the region, and even less sense of how to navigate it.

It wasn’t until a couple of weeks into living in Chalon-sur-Saône that I went to Beaune for the first time.

I soon realised that the key to enjoying Burgundy at its best was to think – and drink – like a local.

Burgundy is small enough, and its wine community close enough, that it doesn’t take long to notice how everyone is connected – winemakers, importers and friends-of-friends all circle back to the same handful of addresses.

Spend just a few evenings in Beaune’s wine bars and that web starts to reveal itself.

Get to the beating heart

The centre of that web is Beaune’s Saturday market – and more specifically, the Saint Romain Coffee cart in front of the giant panda statue.

Matt McClune, an artist from Boston, moved to France in 2004 with his wife, eventually landing in St-Romain, where he started a coffee roastery.

Saint Romain Coffee fuels the wine world in Burgundy and beyond. The coffees, which are all sourced from independent farms in Ethiopia, are carefully roasted in small batches at Matt’s shop, located in a cellar-like space on a steep hill just above a sea of vines.

The shop is open Mondays and Tuesdays, but it’s best to find Matt on Saturdays, pouring perfectly extracted espresso into ceramic mugs among a swarm of winemakers and market-goers.

It’s from this point that the world of Burgundy – its goings-on, its stories, its secrets – opens up.

Ease into local life

The market itself is one of the region’s best. Stalls of spices, cheese, fruit, bread, vegetables and cured meats roll into town before sunrise and take over every street, only to roll out again by midday.

Beaune’s narrow cobbled roads buzz with food and wine lovers.

Afterwards, with bags of Comté and produce in hand, locals retreat to Beaune’s brasseries for lunch. Crème Comptoir, an all-day café and wine bar on Rue Paradis, is a favourite – an easygoing spot, where bar seating wraps around an open kitchen.

Here Saturday afternoons reliably draw a crowd of local winemakers and wine professionals catching up over a bottle.

Listen in for long enough and you’ll pick up on the region’s rhythms. The Côte d’Or’s large expat community makes it an easy place to navigate without French, and postings for local wine and food fairs and concerts are usually pinned in the window.

In Burgundy, it’s nearly impossible to turn over every stone in a single visit – there is always another producer, another café, another thread to follow.

What remains constant is the promise of a region that opens itself up to those patient and curious enough to seek out its local community, not just its cellar doors.

Knowing where to begin is the hardest part – and that’s exactly what this guide, and the recommendations below, are designed to help with.

Many of the villages in Burgundy are accessible by train – the same line that carries you south to Lyon and north to Paris.

Having a car isn’t really necessary, but it’s helpful for organising vineyard visits and exploring the region beyond its towns.

Wineries to visit

The wineries listed here are a great start to discovering the wines of the region. Always try and book in advance, some wineries are open by appointment only.

Where to stay

Boutique hotels and guest houses are the perfect place to base yourself when travelling in Burgundy. Many of them marry historic touches and original features with contemporary decor and a sense of understated luxry.

Alfred Hotels, Beaune

A boutique hotel on the edge of Beaune that opened in early 2026, its 49 rooms are the perfect jumping off point for exploring the local town and the region beyond.

It seamlessly blends old and new, offering a comfortable stay while remaining enmeshed in Beaune’s historic landscape.

Maison du Colombier, Beaune

A historic guesthouse in Beaune’s city center with five independent apartments and a great wine bar that opens onto the iconic cobblestone streets.

Maison le Chevreuil, Meursault

Luxury 10-room inn and restaurant surrounded by the beautiful vineyards of Meursault.

Papotte, Bligny-sur-Ouche

A series of four design-forward homes and apartments located around a beautiful mill, offering longer-stay rentals. There is also a beautiful café.

Côté Park, Givry

An 18th-century château converted into four distinct guest rooms which overlook a quiet courtyard.

Ô Cœur de Chalon, Chalon-sur-Saône

There are some amazing homes for rent in downtown Chalon-Sur-Saône, and this is a great option for something central.

What to do

Where to eat and drink

Unsurprisingly good wine is not hard to come by in Burgundy, but the suggestions for restaurants and wine bars below offer something a cut above the rest; a well-measured combination of excellent wines, thoughtful and sensitive food and great atmosphere.

Crème Café, Beaune

All-day café and wine bar serving seasonal fare in a laid back setting.

La Dilettante, Beaune

Wine bar serving natural wine and French classics with a Japanese influence.

Caves Madeleine, Beaune

Often considered one of the best restaurants in Beaune for its hyper-local classic cuisine and amazing wine list. Make a reservation far in advance to get a seat.

The Publican, Beaune

Local evening haunt serving great local wine and beers on draft.

Le Soleil, Savigny-les-Beaune

A quaint inn and bistro set inside a gorgeous, sun-yellow home. Both the food and wine menus rotate daily – farm to table takes on a new meaning here, with deliveries being made by local farmers and winemakers at all hours of the day and night.

La Cave du Centre, Chagny

Opened in 2024 by wine writer Aaron Ayscough, it serves foremost as a wine shop offering unique and fan-favourite bottles alike, alongside a menu – written on the mirror of course – of classically French small bites.

Colette, Chassagne

Set among Chassagne’s beautiful vineyards, this is a wine bar, wine shop and coffee shop from Clément Colin-Morey – son of local legendary winemaker Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey – and his partner Emma.

Le Petit Chêne, Chassagne

One of the region’s best boulangeries and chocolate shops.

Le Soufflot, Meursault

Located in a former winegrower's house in one of Burgundy’s most iconic villages, the atmosphere here is relaxed and comfortable, but the food is refined and delicate, paired with an excellent wine list.

Haïka Coffee, Chalon-Sur-Saône

A great local roastery in the town center with a lovely terrace where you can catch the goings-on of the town while you sip.

La Maison Romane, Nuits-St-Georges

Restaurant, bakery, brewery and cellar, La Maison Romane is a true hub for community and connection in Burgundy, founded by Oronce de Beler, who decided to leave Paris in 2004 to learn winemaking.

Bruno, Dijon

An intimate wine bar helmed by Bruno himself, a local legend in Dijon, who has curated one of the most refined wine lists in Burgundy, serving charcuterie, cheese, anchovies and other great delicacies to regulars and tourists alike.

Cibo, Dijon

A new-wave bistrot serving refined seasonal fare inside of a stunning 17th-century stone building in downtown Dijon.

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Romano dal Forno was born in 1957, the only son of a family of small vineyard owners in the valley of Ilasi, in the east of Valpolicella.

Like many families in the valley, the Dal Fornos had always produced wine for their own use and sold the bulk of their grapes to the local cooperative. Romano was the first to bottle and sell wine under his own name.

When I first met Romano towards the end of the 1980s, we spoke at the kitchen table of his family home.

A flight of rickety steps led from the kitchen to the tiny underground cellar where Romano’s entire production was ageing in traditional casks.

A single light bulb dangled from the ceiling of the cellar – the scene was one which you would have found in the homes of countryside families the length and breadth of Italy in those days.

Passing in front of the Azienda Agricola Romano dal Forno today, the company headquarters could easily be mistaken for a rather grand 17th-century Venetian villa from the outside.

The architecture, along with the decor of the reception areas are of the era, however the grape-drying and vinification facilities are high-tech, with an array of equipment designed to the company’s own specifications.

The cellars go down three levels, and the vaulted barrique cellar alone extends for an area of 1,392m².

Valpolicella's best-kept secret

The vineyard area has grown from the original 7.5 hectares to 35ha, and production from 5,000 bottles a year to an average of 50,000.

The wines – which for most of the 1980s were Valpolicella’s best-kept secret – today enjoy iconic status.

The transformation of the azienda has something of a fairytale story about it, and in fact Romano himself says: ‘Sometimes, when I’m on my own in the winery, I wander around and I think to myself, how on earth did I manage all this?’

Romano made his first official vintage in 1983. He was 26 years old and recently married.

Bursting with energy, he was idealistic and galvanised by the dream of making quality wine. But breaking with the local cooperative was a giant step.

When Romano told his father he wanted to start his own production, his father took it badly. Where was the sense in setting up in competition with the cooperatives?

In the end his father acquiesced, but looking back now, Romano has to admit that he was right to be sceptical.

‘In the 1980s, the word “quality” did not exist in the Italian language. You had to produce quantity to get ahead’.

Learning from a legend

It was about that same time that Romano met Giuseppe Quintarelli, with whom he formed a lasting relationship.

The legendary Amarone producer was an inspirational figure for Romano, but when it came to making wine, he was determined to do it his way.

‘I didn’t want to be a copy of Quintarelli… I wanted to stand on my own two feet’, he says, continuing, ‘Giuseppe always used to say, “We have always made wine the way tradition commanded, and how it always has been”, but that jarred with me’.

Romano could not relate to a tradition that was not a part of him, but there was one instance at the start of his career when following Quintarelli’s advice proved to be a game-changer.

Quintarelli had suggested that Romano thin out the crop, which he did – not by removing whole bunches, but by cutting away the bottom of the bunch to leave only the wings, known as the ‘ears’.

‘I saw immediately that this was a good thing to do, but also very risky,’ he recalls. ‘The results were great when the weather held, but in years when it rained it was a disaster’.

Despite the risks, with this extremely rigid selection using only tiny bunches of the very best fruit, Romano was able to produce high quality wine.

This attracted the attention of an American importer and enabled him to enter the US market at the end of the 1980s, commanding prices well above the average for the period.

At this stage, no more than 5,000 bottles were being made from his 7.5ha of vineyard – around 3,500 bottles of Valpolicella and 1,500 of Amarone.

These drastically reduced yields and hyper-selection became hallmarks of the estate, but Romano knew that castigating the vines in a vineyard which was not designed for low yields was a compromise.

Following visits to France to study high-density planting, Romano planted a vineyard with 11,000 vines/ha in 1996, and over the next 10 years, between new acquisitions and the replanting of existing plots, he converted the entire estate to hyper-density, resulting in revolutionary low yields unheard of in the Veneto at that time.

Rethinking the process

The vineyard is the starting place, but it does not stop there. Romano likes to cite the late Carlo Petrini’s dictum that, ‘From great grapes you can also make excellent vinegar’, and the refinement of the vinification processes has played a crucial role in the evolution of the winery.

The distinctive features of Dal Forno’s wines – the purity of fruit, the dry elegance, the finesse of the tannins, and the extreme technical precision – can all be traced to specific innovations in winemaking over the course of time.

The fruit quality comes from the rethinking of the grape drying (‘appassimento’) process.

Romano recounts that in the first years: ‘Clients used to come to visit... and I would proudly show them grapes still laid out to dry in April. When I think about it now, I think, how stupid I was’.

The concentration that comes with appassimento is indispensable to Amarone, but over-long drying compromises the purity of the fruit, introducing notes of advanced evolution.

‘Appassimento isn’t like sending a school kid to do cramming lessons to make up for what he didn’t learn at school’, Romano notes. ‘It’s that extra bit of study that helps him to excel’.

Reducing the length of appassimento meant going back to the vineyard and picking later to have levels of ripeness which offset a shorter period of grape drying.

Grapes for Amarone now dry for no more than 60 days, and since 2001 the fruit for Dal Forno’s Valpolicella is pressed after 30 days.

Since 2020, production has been managed by Romano's son, Marco.

The second milestone in the forming of the house style was the development of a drier style of Amarone.

‘Amarone is an opulent wine; if it’s not opulent it’s not Amarone, but that opulence has to be supported by a freshness and sapidity that make it inviting to drink’.

Final tweaks

Obtaining the elegance of the style he was looking for meant reducing the residual sugar, but up until 1993, when he moved into new, purpose-built cellars, fermenting all the sugar out of musts with the massive concentration of partially dried grapes was problematic.

He says: ‘I remember that in the early years, not having the technology, nor the understanding of how to solve the issue, many vintages ended up with residual sugar. Perhaps some clients liked the old-fashioned style, but I didn’t.

'Amarone should have three or four grams of residual sugar, maximum five, but sometimes it used to go up to eight, nine or even 10 grams. They might have drunk all right when they were young, but with age those wines became fat and sticky’.

The ability to control the temperatures in the final stage of fermentation through underfloor heating in the new cellars was the piece of the jigsaw that completed the picture.

From the first vinifications in cement vats in the old family cellar, in order to get the textures he was looking for, Romano has always experimented with crushing, fermenting and punching down together in the same vessels.

When he moved into the new cellars he started experimenting with vinification in barriques.

‘I found out later that in France, Château Le Pin was vinifying in the same way, but I didn’t know that when I started,’ he recalls.

Romano was not satisfied with the initial results, but he learned from the experience.

‘In 1995, I constructed the prototype of a vat that reproduces the vinification in barriques, and from then on, it was plain sailing.’

Defending identity

I put it to Romano that there is great stylistic diversity in the Amarones produced today, and I asked for his views on the direction it should take in the future – should it try to accommodate modern tastes, or remain faithful to its origins?

His reply left no doubt about his convictions: ‘There is a theory among some producers that Amarone should become a wine to drink throughout the meal… but it has no sense.

‘Amarone is not an everyday wine. We are talking about wines with 16-17 degrees of alcohol. I can’t imagine an Amarone with 14 degrees. To go under 16% you lose concentration, you lose substance… If we turn Amarone into a vinello ('a little wine') what have we achieved? We’ve lost that identity that has brought us to where we are today.

‘When we begin to put into question emblems, Amarone and Recioto… we are destroying our history’.

Dal Forno Amarone in some vintages, such as the great 2011, has touched 17% abv and perhaps even a half a point higher, but the wines have always maintained that characteristic. The current aim is to stabilise at 16%, but not to go under.

Romano believes that accommodating Amarone to perceived commercial demand for wines to drink throughout a meal is a betrayal of its true character.

‘Reducing the alcohol, you have to press earlier and then you lose concentration and substance'.

A taste of precision

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There's no shortage of great Pinot Noir in the world.

Obviously it all starts with Burgundy. But, equally, there are a lot more countries and regions getting their due now too.

Everywhere from New Zealand and Australia to Germany, South Africa – and the US, especially Oregon's Willamette Valley and Sonoma in California.

And as Burgundy is increasingly out of reach for most wine drinkers, these other sources of high-quality Pinot are really coming into their own.

There are exciting things happening all around, but I want to focus in particular on Sonoma.

And what I can tell you is that Sonoma not only delivers excellent Pinots but does so in a range of styles.

While this caters for many palates, it also makes Sonoma difficult to understand. But that’s precisely its appeal.

That Sonoma is large is hardly breaking news. Less obvious is how much more clearly its differences have come into focus over the past two decades, as a growing number of the county’s producers have become a lot more invested in showing just how little sense a one-size-fits-all idea of Pinot Noir makes at this scale.

Shifting styles

There has been a gradual move away from making wines that follow imported styles to a commitment to sustainable farming suited to each site.

In the cellar, there’s often a more deliberate touch, less interventionist in some cases.

The idea is not terribly complicated: a healthy, expressive vineyard plus less new oak and other manipulations means winemakers can be a lot more confident in letting the wines reflect where they come from.

Ensuring fruit is not picked overripe, and the increased use of whole bunches in fermentations to enhance freshness has also been a turning point.

Within the 19 AVAs of Sonoma, you’ll see anything from cold and fog-bound coastal vineyards to dramatic high-elevation mountain sites, warm inland pockets, windy corridors, and a remarkable variety of soils and geologic formations.

There are differences so nuanced they can sometimes be noticed just a mile apart by producers sharing the same fence line.

Which might explain the growing thirst for vineyard-designated Sonoma Pinot bottlings.

In the glass, Sonoma Pinot serves a palate looking for saline, savoury, and almost electrically tense wines, as well as generous, plush, and fruit-forward ones, through to darker and more structured versions, and a lot more in between.

Cast assumptions aside

In any case, long-held assumptions about what Sonoma Pinot Noir should taste like are worth revisiting, as the wine styles and identities are as diverse as the county is large.

That seems to serve an eclectic market quite well, with consumers always on the hunt for different things, making Pinot a ‘democratic’ grape in Sonoma.

The same region that produces wines to make collectors queue for allocations each season, also produces bottles that are just easy and delicious.

'West Sonoma Coast producers tend to draw wine collectors and more intellectually curious drinkers,' says Alex Sarovich, sommelier and wine educator.

'When it’s juicy, fruit-driven, and not overly tannic, Pinot Noir is a really good grape for easing people into the drier styles of wine,' she adds.

Trying to make a list in this context feels daunting. The wines selected here are excellent – among the best Sonoma has to offer right now – but they are not the full picture.

No list of 10 bottles could hope to capture a region this large, but together they offer a glimpse into what makes Sonoma such a compelling place to explore through Pinot Noir: a collection of exciting and often contrasting expressions.

10 Sonoma Pinot Noirs

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Just south of medieval Chambéry in Savoie, in eastern France, Apremont takes its name from either the Latin asper montis (‘rough mountain’) or the French après mont (‘after the mountain’).

That mountain is Mont Granier, whose imposing limestone wall dominates the Combe de Savoie, a 40km valley that runs southwest to northeast across the centre of the Savoie region.

Granier’s story is one of catastrophe and renewal, and the alpine wines from its slopes express its layered history.

On the night of 24 November 1248, a massive section of Mont Granier’s limestone cliff face collapsed – one of Europe’s largest recorded landslides. Five villages were buried beneath millions of tonnes of rock, with one account from a travelling monk claiming 5,000 perished.

For centuries, the landscape remained a mostly barren pile of rubble. Eventually, Savoyard farmers found that grapes – especially the native white Jacquère – were the only crop that would take root in the stony soil.

Today, Apremont’s vineyards grow atop the remnants of the mountain and the villages buried beneath.

Jacquère, Savoie’s little-known white workhorse, is grown across the region but is the signature grape of Apremont, where it produces pale, crystalline whites with delicate floral notes, a whisper of gunflint minerality and bright citrus and lychee – all carried by an airy, saline freshness.

If you love Muscadet’s oyster-shell minerality or crisp Chablis, Apremont offers something similar but distinctly alpine.

The better expressions taste like melted snow scraped from a mountain crag, with a squeeze of lemon and a scattering of white flowers.

Pale green, they’re light but not watery, with a mineral texture and a clean, salivating finish. Like most Savoie wines, they naturally hover around 11% alcohol.

Time travel

I first fell for Apremont on a summer trip to lake Annecy, a jewel of the French Alps.

After days hiking above and swimming in the turquoise waters (it’s the cleanest lake in Europe), we enjoyed the local whites with Savoie’s signature cheeses: Reblochon, Beaufort and Tomme de Savoie.

I soon developed an affinity for Apremont’s minerally whites, which are very affordable, unpretentious and speak clearly of time and place.

The affinity grew when I returned to visit the hillside vineyards and villages, which feel like stepping back into both old France and geological time. Apremont is Savoie’s largest sub-regional designation, yet it remains little known beyond the region – or even within France.

But that’s changing as wine lovers seek lighter styles and indigenous varieties, with Savoie being touted as ‘the next Jura’.

These wines pair brilliantly with the region’s famous alpine dishes – fondue, raclette, lake fish – but they’re equally at home with oysters and grilled seafood, or simply as an aperitif.

The story of Apremont reminds us that beauty and renewal can emerge from disaster. It also reminds us how fragile everything is – how a mountain can fall, how quickly life can change.

Where catastrophe once struck, vines now thrive, producing some of France’s most delicate and distinctive whites.

Born on a fallen mountain, these are wines shaped by stone and best enjoyed with a feeling of gratitude.

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‘I’m a baby of the climats de Bourgogne,’ says Hombeline Guyon, the third generation, after her father Dominique and uncle Michel, to take the reins at Domaine Antonin Guyon in Savigny-lès-Beaune, just north of Beaune.

It transpires that she was instrumental – alongside Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Aubert de Villaine – in the successful bid to have Burgundy’s climats (its many long-established and specifically defined parcels of vines) inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015, heading up the communications and engaging local stakeholders.

‘It was a truly transformative experience,’ she says. ‘Witnessing the collective effort to protect and recognise our land gave me a profound sense of purpose.’

But she has been deeply shaped by this land in other ways, too.

The Guyon family has 48ha of vineyard holdings in 25 appellations across the Côte d’Or – unusually extensive for a family-owned domaine in Burgundy. She reels them off fluently, from north to south.

Hombeline’s grandfather Antonin built his eponymous domaine in the 1960s. Over 10 years, he amassed impressive holdings, from Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny down to Corton, Volnay, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.

When Dominique joined in the 1970s, he carried out his own remarkable feat – buying up 350 plots, from 80 different owners, to create a single, 22ha block of vines on a south-facing hillside in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.

This was the start of an additional domaine, Domaine Dominique Guyon, an early pioneer in what was once an overlooked sub-region.

An uncertain path

As an only child raised by her father, Hombeline spent much of her youth alone with him – at the domaine, out at restaurants, listening deeply and observing intently.

‘He spoke to me all the time, about everything,’ she says. ‘I knew everything about the domaine, everything about what he wanted to do.’

She absorbed it all. She knew that he wanted her to join the domaine eventually, but he didn’t lay down a path for her, or tell her how to go about it; it was never prescriptive. ‘I had to figure it out on my own, and I feel stronger for that,’ she says.

She travelled to Japan, China and the US, working across different areas of the wine business, before returning to Burgundy and eventually joining the domaine in 2014.

Although it was far from easy at the beginning – ‘My father is very smart, elegant, charismatic, with a strong personality, but he didn’t show me how to do things’ – there is now a mutual recognition of each other’s talents and strengths.

Alongside her father and long-time cellar master Vincent Nicot, who retired last year, Hombeline began to draw a more open exchange out of these two smart, sensible, but traditional men.

She says that they began to take much more time for tasting – more frequently and for longer periods – and she feels that the three of them learning (or re-learning) how to taste together, and to listen to each other, made them a stronger team.

Hombeline also feels that she has brought a lightness of touch to the wines, with less extraction (fewer pumpovers and more rack and return).

They’ve reduced the percentage of new oak and are being less formulaic in their vinification and maturation, and more reactive and precise.

Supporting creativity

Despite her entry into the domaine not being completely laid out for her, and despite being a woman in a male-dominated sphere, Hombeline feels that no one should have to fight to find their place.

She says it’s more about recognising each individual’s talents, and that ultimately people want to feel secure and recognised.

She’s also conscious, as a mother of three herself now, of what it meant for her father to raise a daughter alone while running an estate.

She carries her inherited responsibilities lightly, but there might have been another path: being a journalist, drawn from her love of people and sense of justice.

But running the domaine offers something equally enriching, allowing her creative side to bloom, ‘which is good for the wines and the domaine, but also for me – as a woman, a mother and a daughter’.

She feels that this is a job that requires much humanity and humility.

‘You have to be humble with nature; you have to think with your heart,’ she says, embracing and embodying the multifaceted role of daughter, mother, woman – and child of Burgundy.

One Guyon to try

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An hour from the hubbub of Melbourne’s Central Business District, turning off the freeway and heading into rolling hills, the suburban sprawl falls away in the rear view mirror and the Yarra Valley opens before you like an oil painting.

The landscape is bucolic, the terrain undulates as it does in Tuscany, and birdsong supplants the distant din of the metropolis.

Not only is the Yarra Valley one of Australia’s most celebrated wine regions, chiefly famed for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it is also one of its most accessible, with more than 80 cellar doors, award-winning restaurants and accommodation to suit most budgets, all a short hop from the country’s second biggest city.

Officially a cool climate region, there’s an abundance of varieties, from Italian grape émigrés to Bordeaux blends and a fresh, modern style of Shiraz.

The Yarra Valley is Victoria’s oldest wine region, but it has succumbed to the vagaries of fashion over its history.

Vines were first planted in 1838, but less than a hundred years later they had all gone, falling victim to the trend for fortified wines from warmer climes and making way for more lucrative crops.

The region’s renaissance began in the early 1960s, with the revival of heritage properties like Yeringberg, alongside new wave wineries including Yarra Yering.

Broadly divided into the Upper and Lower Yarra, based on the path of the Yarra river, the relaxed pace, Mediterranean flavour and spectacular scenery reward a few leisurely days touring, though it is perfectly possible to make a day trip from Melbourne, should time dictate.

Once in the valley, distances between wineries are short and there are handsome small towns, such as Healesville and Yarra Glen, to while away time over a flat white.

Wineries to visit:

Giant Steps

Established in 1997 by drinks industry pioneer Phil Sexton and named after his favourite John Coltrane album, Giant Steps has forged a reputation for single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that showcases a profound sense of place.

The tasting room sits on the main street in Healesville, the team are lovely, booking is encouraged, though walk-ins are welcome.

Yarra Yering

A pioneer of the Yarra Valley renaissance, established in 1969 by an eminent botanist, Dr Bailey Carrodus, the winery’s first Merlot cost more than Penfold’s Grange at the time of its release.

These days the winemaker is Sarah Crowe, who crafts a mostly Bordeaux-inspired portfolio of wines that balance power, structure and understated finesse.

Ten minutes from Healesville, the tasting room is cosy so book ahead.

De Bortoli

The Yarra Valley outpost for a family-owned winery, run by Leanne De Bortoli and her winemaker husband Steve Webber.

The portfolio is impressively broad, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir rubbing shoulders with newer arrivals such as Gamay and Grenache.

Located at Dixon’s Creek, there’s a large tasting room with commanding views and a popular Italian restaurant, ‘Locale’.

Levantine Hill

If money is no object then you can choose to fly to this state-of-the-art winery by helicopter from central Melbourne.

Most will choose to drive the 10 minutes from Healesville for a tasting flight or classy wine-paired lunch.

Veteran winemaker Paul Bridgeman oversees a prestige portfolio showcasing the elegance and finesse that defines the Yarra Valley’s fruit.

Soumah

Set up by a hospitality veteran, Brett Butcher, the theme is Mediterranean, the colour scheme a blazing azure, while every detail seems to have been meticulously thought through.

The wines are an eclectic and compelling range of mostly Italian varieties, including some Decanter medal winners and there’s a top notch trattoria, so food pairing is a no-brainer.

My perfect day in the Yarra Valley:

Start the day the Aussie way, with a flat white. It’s almost impossible to find bad coffee in these parts, but I’d recommend Montesanto Coffee Roasters in Healesville, where owner Mario knows his beans.

For the best introduction to what the Yarra Valley has to offer, head across the road to Giant Steps for a plot-specific, premium tasting flight, focused on the region’s signature varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

A short drive along the Maroondah Highway, treat yourself to an al fresco lunch at Levantine Hill Estate, with a Mediterranean-inspired menu and paired wines against the backdrop of the valley’s rolling hills.

Book an afternoon tasting at Yarra Yering, just five minutes away, to experience some of the region’s modern history and award-winning cuvées in its homely tasting room.

For a brief diversion, head back into Healesville for a tasting and tour at the famous Four Pillars gin distillery on the edge of town.

Continue the Yarra-meets-the-Med theme with delicious pasta or wood-fired pizza at Soumah, an Italian specialist nestled on a knoll in the Warramate foothills, and stay the night in one of its well appointed vineyard cottages.

Where to stay:

Soumah: Four luxurious cottages and the four bedroom Villa Sophia sit alongside the vines at this Italian-inspired winery near Gruyere.

Chateau Yering: Step back in time at this grand Victorian mansion set amidst a 250 acre estate, with stunning views over the Yarra Valley and 32 suites.

Yarra Gables Motel: A restored farmhouse-turned-motel, with friendly, wine-loving owners, set in beautiful manicured gardens on the edge of Healesville.

Where to eat:

Jayden Ong: Locally-sourced dishes are served alongside the barrels at this Healesville winery and restaurant, which also has a seasonal outdoor barbecue.

Soumah: The culinary theme is Italian at this relaxed trattoria tribute featuring a pizza oven and pasta, while the vineyard views are sublime.

Levantine Hill: High end Mediterranean cuisine, with wine pairing, in a swish restaurant boasting beautiful views of the Yarra Valley from the outdoor terrace.

How to get there:

Melbourne is the nearest international airport, served by Qantas and (from January 2027) by British Airways, around one hour’s drive from the Yarra Valley.

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On a quiet road in St-Emilion, two tall stone pillars mark the entrance to small, idyllic, grand cru classé Château Corbin.

Turn in and follow the gravel drive lined with old horse-chestnut trees. You’ll come to an iron gate that opens to a courtyard and a white-shuttered 18^th century château of cream-coloured stone, complete with romantic tower.

Outbuildings on either side hold the vat cellar and the office; the surround is well-tended Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines, the main grapes of St-Emilion.

This elegant property is one of my favourites in Bordeaux. Unlike the left bank’s grand, imposing châteaux with shiny new chais designed by famous architects, Corbin feels intimate, charming, jewel-like.

You fantasise about living there. And it has a tradition of being run by talented women.

The latest is Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet, who took over in 1999, and did that year’s harvest with a baby in her arms, she tells me as we tour the vines and cellar.

Now she’s wearing fashionable black sunglasses and boots, black slacks, and a man’s Rolex.

Since just before the 21^st century began, she’s been revamping this beautiful estate and perfecting its wines.

As she began, a Right Bank group of rebels called garagistes dominated the conversation in St-Emilion with their controversial, flamboyant, oaky reds that achieved cult status thanks to the enthusiasm of critic Robert Parker.

But Cruse-Bardinet’s goal from the beginning was different: to hone a wine style that’s all about elegance, purity, and Corbin’s terroir. And her recent vintages are the best yet.

A long history, and trailblazing women

In the 13^th century, Corbin’s land was the central part of a large fiefdom belonging to local lord Arnaud de Corbin.

One later owner, it’s believed, was the son of King Edward III of England, known as the Black Prince who was, for a short while, direct ruler of Gascony and lived in Bordeaux.

Time saw the eventual breakup of the huge property. A map dating to 1811 shows five châteaux that include ‘Corbin’ as part of their names, but Château Corbin is the original one.

By the 19th^th century Corbin belonged to négociant Jean Chaperon-Grangère, mayor of Libourne, and his death started a tradition of women managing the estate, his widow Marguerite taking charge from 1832 to 1845.

Jean-Paul Chaperon, the distant cousin who inherited next, combined Corbin with neighbouring Château Jean Faure for some 50 years.

Cruse-Bardinet’s great grandparents, négociant Joseph Guiraud and his wife Yvonne, who bought Corbin in 1924 ushered in a new era.

During the Second World War, their daughter, Marie Joseph, took over when her husband was made a prisoner of war. She was the second woman to run the estate.

Later, her parents purchased Chateau Certan-Guiraud in Pomerol, which also came under her purview and she ran both for decades.

And when the St-Emilion classification system was established in 1955, Corbin was ranked grand cru classé. Her eventual consultant? Michel Rolland.

Anabelle, born in 1967, is the third woman to shape the estate’s fortunes. You could say that winemaking and Corbin were her destiny.

She’s a member of the Cruse family – her cousin is Emmanuel Cruse of Château d’Issan – major players in the Bordeaux wine trade for seven generations.

She grew up at Château Laujac, a 400-hectare estate in the north Médoc where her winemaking father farmed a 70 hectare vineyard and managed a herd of 500 cows.

But during her childhood she also spent a month each year during harvest at Corbin, owned by her mother’s family.

‘It was more important than school,’ she says. ‘A retired teacher came to the château to teach us every day after we picked grapes.’

Corbin's call

Cruse-Bardinet’s first job after studying oenology at University of Bordeaux was at Château Branaire-Ducru, and she worked in California at Sterling Vineyards, and for several years at Laujac.

But her grandmother, who wanted her to take over Corbin, frequently requested her help, and eventually the estate’s charm seduced her.

As in so many Bordeaux wine families, a tangle of family ownership conflicts reigned for many years.

The fighting was resolved in 1999, when one part of the family took control of Certan-Guiraud and sold to Christian Moueix, who renamed it Hosanna.

Cruse-Bardinet, her sisters, and grandmother retained Corbin until 2007, when Cruse Bardinet and her husband Sebastien were able take complete ownership.

The rise of women was just beginning in Bordeaux when she took on the winemaking role at Corbin.

The challenges required immediate judgment and investment. Luckily, she jokes, her parents educated her on the value of work.

The vineyard, which surrounds the château, wasn’t in bad shape, but needed a new drainage system.

Revamping the estate

Lying on the border of Pomerol, the terroir is completely different from the famous limestone plateau surrounding St-Emilion village.

The six hectares on the Pomerol side of the vineyard are clay; the other seven hectares are ancient sandy gravel over an iron-rich clay subsoil.

A study of the terroir pointed to new rootstocks, clones, and replacing the vines in many plots.

There was no crush pad for the picked grapes. They lacked a sorting table and decent crusher and had to upgrade the cellar with new temperature-controlled vats.

The château itself hadn’t been lived in for years and required renovation. Michel Rolland’s consulting team helped advise on vinification.

The wines improved quickly, and the 2009 hit the jackpot, with international praise for its deep, ripe, generous fruit, sumptuous texture and oh-so-reasonable price.

A few years later came an office rebuild and space for visitors, and eventually a new vat room, finished just in time for the great 2016 vintage. Finally, everything was complete.

Or so she thought.

2017: The turning point

At the end of April in 2017, a severe frost wiped out Corbin’s crop. Cruse-Bardinet says she felt like she was as dead as the vineyard. But gradually she saw the year with no wine as an opportunity to rethink everything she had been doing.

‘We will never fight against mother nature,’ she says. ‘Adapting to what she gives means changing the way we make wine.’

In other words, a style revolution.

The first thing was to recognise you couldn’t just follow traditional production rules. In 2018, she brought in a new cellar master, and started picking earlier, plot by plot.

‘Even a day can make all the difference,’ she says. Using plot by plot vinification, she favoured infusion rather than pump overs for less extraction.

Having sold the barrels intended for the 2017 vintage, she bought fewer, using only 50% new and discovered the richness of her wine in those not aged in new oak.

In 2019, she tried glass wine globes, a round-shaped glass vessel, for ageing the Cabernet Franc to showcase the Corbin terroir and bring out more pure fruit flavours.

In 2020, she started fermenting without sulfur and expanded wine globe experiments. In 2021, she added densimetric sorting, a way to move grapes through water and select only those with greater density. In the vineyard she switched to only organic products.

And she enlisted a new consultant, rising star Thomas Duclos of Oenoteam, noted for helping châteaux find a fresher, more balanced, nuanced wine style.

‘I’m on the way of Corbin and its terroir now,’ she says. ‘Finally, the wine and estate are what I want. And now my aim is to transmit all this to the future.’

Ten vintages of Château Corbin

Wines are listed by vintage, oldest to youngest

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The final masterclass of the day at the 2026 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York began at 4pm.

Despite a full day of tasting already behind them, attendees packed the room for a retrospective look at Heitz Cellar hosted by Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy, president and CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, which owns this benchmark Napa Valley winery, among others.

The lineup of wines spanned nearly five decades, and guests were encouraged to taste while McCoy and I discussed the history of this iconic producer.

One of the more interesting topics was how little the winemaking itself has changed over the decades.

McCoy explained that Heitz continues to ferment its Cabernet Sauvignons in large neutral wooden tanks, blocks malolactic fermentation in the reds, and ages wines in large oak foudres.

The objective, he said, is to preserve freshness and 'express site character above all'.

While some American oak was used in the first few decades of Heitz’s founding, today, it’s French.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the 10 Heitz Cellar wines at the DFWE NYC 2026 masterclass

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 1979

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 1985

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 2010

Heitz Cellar, Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville 2021

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 1999

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2013

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2021

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2015

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2016

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 2021

Standouts from the line up

It was a rare opportunity for Masterclass attendees to experience mature and current Heitz releases side by side, including the 1979 and 1985 Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons.

I've tasted the 1979 Martha's Vineyard on three separate occasions, and it continues to impress for its freshness, complexity, and unmistakable aromatic profile.

The bay laurel, mint, and eucalyptus notes that have become synonymous with the wine remain remarkably vivid nearly 50 years after harvest.

Two of the three oldest wines stood out on the day: the aforementioned 1979 Martha's Vineyard as well as the 1999 Trailside Vineyard.

The 1985 Martha's Vineyard, poured from magnum, showed a touch of cellar funk on the nose, but broadened beautifully across the palate.

The younger wines were equally compelling, though still firmly in their developmental phase.

Martha's Vineyard

Located in Oakville, Martha's Vineyard remains one of Napa Valley's most famous Cabernet Sauvignon sites.

When founder Joe Heitz first put ‘Martha’s Vineyard’ on the label of his 1966 bottling, it was the first time in Napa that the name of a site appeared on a wine label.

Martha's Vineyard takes its name from Martha May, the wife of vineyard owner and grape-grower Tom May.

The Mays purchased the Oakville property in the early 1960s. The roughly 34-acre (13.7ha) vineyard is known for producing wines marked by freshness, structure, and the distinctive bay laurel and eucalyptus character that has become its hallmark (eucalyptus trees line the perimeter).

While the fruit from Martha’s was exclusively sold to Heitz for decades, McCoy revealed that, for the first time in the vineyard's history, Heitz will not purchase the entire crop from Martha's Vineyard.

'I'm excited to see what other producers do with this exceptional fruit,' he said.

Trailside Vineyard

Purchased by Heitz in 1984, Trailside Vineyard is planted to 85 acres (35.3ha) in the Rutherford AVA, divided into 16 distinct blocks, based on a diversity of soil types, of gravelly loam and clay-loam.

The site is farmed organically, with biodynamic inputs. Several Cabernet Sauvignon clones are planted, along with Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Musque clones.

Trailside often shows a rusticity and dusty mineral character of red fruits, plus notes of sage, dried herbs, and fine tannins.

The 1999 Trailside, from a small, concentrated crop, showed the power and intensity possible from the site. Judging the wine on colour alone, you would think it was produced in the last five years.

The flavours, though, were so profoundly layered with loamy earth and tobacco nuances, along with the site’s characteristic freshness, that, save for those emerging secondary notes, it was almost hard to believe the wine was 27 years old.

Linda Falls Vineyard

Linda Falls represents Heitz's mountain-expression Cabernet Sauvignon.

Purchased and planted in 2002, at 1,500 feet (457m) elevation on Howell Mountain near the Linda Falls Preserve (a popular hiking destination with locals), only seven acres of the 42-acre (16.9ha) property are planted to vines.

The volcanic soils and higher elevation produce a markedly different profile from the valley-floor vineyards.

Dark fruit, conifer accents, crushed-stone minerality, and a firmer, more robust tannic structure define the wine, marked by the freshness so characteristic of Heitz and perfectly in place with the wines, thanks to the deft cellar work of winemaker Brittany Sherwood.

The library vintages across all three vineyard sites tasted in this Decanter Masterclass offered a compelling look at the longevity of Heitz Cellar’s iconic Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Heitz Cellar masterclass: Five decades, back to 1979

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Since I started this monthly column, I’ve had a number of people ask me when I’m going to cover alcohol-free wine. For a long time, I rejected the idea that the NoLo category, especially de-alcoholised wine, was even relevant to this column slot.

Is there an assumption that abstaining from alcohol is inherently ethical? Does it stem from the noise around the (contested) World Health Organisation guidelines that state that ‘no level of alcohol consumption is safe’? Is avoiding wine – and alcohol in general – more sustainable? I suppose that these questions are worth interrogating.

I haven’t picked up my pen to write about the best NoLo wines to try (in my opinion, there aren’t any; and anyway, Andrew Jefford poked at NoLo wine in his January 2026 column), or even to comment on the concept of drinking in moderation – my colleague Ines Salpico unpicked this eloquently in the June 2025 issue in her ‘Wine, moderation & pleasure’ article.

Instead, I want to discuss something that I think a lot of discourse around the NoLo category misses, which is real scrutiny of the products themselves.

Is the bottle unnecessarily heavy? Where has the liquid itself come from? If it’s originally made from grapes, or even if it’s made from other plants, how were they farmed? Who picked them? How far has it travelled? How much energy does de-alcoholisation consume? What is the terroir?

I recently spoke with Camille Vidal, founder of mindful drinking consultancy La Maison Wellness. Her work centres on training the trade to offer more and better choices to people who, for whatever reason, want to drink less – or no – alcohol.

She came to this, she tells me, ‘through being an industry professional seeing consumer behaviour changing and a desire to drink differently, within an industry that wasn’t providing this’.

The industry was lagging behind its own customers – is it still?

Camille is clear-eyed about the category’s shortcomings. There are plenty of NoLo products on the market, she says, ‘that are just cutting corners – badly made in a lab, full of artificial flavourings and preservatives’.

But she also makes the point that NoLo products are legally required to declare every ingredient on the label; wine isn’t.

What she wants – and what we should also be demanding – is ‘more’: ‘I want more storytelling. More origin and terroir. More amazing ingredients and fermentation techniques.’ In other words, the same things we demand of a serious bottle of wine.

Enter Gut Oggau. This renowned Austrian biodynamic estate has launched Gut Feeling, a 0% alcohol botanical drink that’s everything most NoLo products aren’t.

Revered around the world for transmitting the very essence of their Burgenland landscape into the glass, Eduard and Stephanie Tscheppe have built a cult following not just for their commitment to biodiversity and nurturing the vineyard ecosystem, but for their ability to inspire others through it.

Gut Feeling follows the same logic, made from herbs and other plants, including nettle, camomile, yarrow, dandelion and wormwood, that grow around their vineyards. Terroir and authenticity. This is exactly what this category needs.

A handful of other NoLo options that come close to this idea are Botivo, Everleaf, Mother Root, Muri, Osco and Saicho.

The most successful NoLo stories will be those where producers are building their product from the ground up – taking the best ingredients and creating a liquid that doesn’t yet exist in alcohol form, and tastes amazing.

The questions we ask of wine, about provenance, environmental credentials, terroir and social responsibility, are the same questions we should be asking of every NoLo product we pick up.

Right now, too few of them have satisfying answers. As wine lovers and conscious consumers, it’s on us to keep demanding that they do.

Sip to make a difference

A delicious, organic non-alcoholic drink that cuts no corners on flavour and complexity! Vertu (£17.50 Clapton Craft, Gnarly Vines) is from biodynamic Bordeaux estate Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours. Crucially, it’s not dealcoholised wine. It’s a blend of 65% herbal tea, 30% Merlot grape juice and a splash of verjus, carbonated for a light sparkle.

It smells reassuringly herbal, with notes of ginger, menthol, fig and grape. It’s sweet, but that deep, warm herbal character is balancing and soothing. Love it.

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I’ve been lucky enough to meet David Ramey, the rightly lauded California winemaker, a master of utterly delicious Chardonnay, several times.

I vividly remember watching him and the late Jim Clendenen at a masterclass – the room entirely captivated by these two heavyweights of California wine verbally sparring, both opinionated, talented, intelligent and witty.

It seems a bit unjust to introduce Alan Ramey’s debut book Pressing Matters (£20 Académie du Vin Library, April 2026) by talking about his father, but I do so merely to point out that brilliance clearly runs in the family.

'A real treat'

This compact book is a real treat – one that I’d urge you to invest in (and ‘invest’ seems an exaggeration given its reasonable price).

Ramey sets out to tackle ‘the debates, controversies and mysteries that have shaped the world of wine’ – with chapters covering terroir, appellation systems, organics, biodynamics, climate change, quality, value and natural wine.

It’s one of several recent books that take a multidisciplinary approach, and it does so brilliantly.

As he explores each of these topics, Ramey talks to a host of experts and characters both inside and outside the world of wine to help shed light on them.

He discusses rather than opines, underscoring the fact that the answer to almost everything ever is ‘It depends’, and laying out the world of wine in all its glorious shades of grey, highlighting the complexity and nuance that, for me, make wine so fascinating.

Unlike so many wine books, Pressing Matters is genuinely readable – so much so that I devoured it in a matter of days.

Ramey comes across as wonderfully intelligent, yet not at all a bore, with pleasing displays of wit sprinkled throughout. It’s not a light read, but nor is it impenetrable.

And, at just 185 pages long, excluding the comprehensive endnotes, it’s a book that won’t just sit on your shelf – it’s one you’ll actually read.

In Ramey’s concluding chapter, he writes: ‘In my conversations... it became clear that at least part of [people’s] fervour was derived from not having taken the time to meet and intellectually question a person who held a disliked belief. Those conversations by no means have to lead to changing one’s views – in many cases they should not – but at least they lead to better understanding of human values.’

That, I’m sure you’ll agree, is something that holds true far beyond the world of wine.

Listen: Earth sounds

BBC Rare Earth on the 'joy of soil'

The other day I was pottering about in my kitchen with the reassuring sounds of Radio 4 in the background when a program caught my ear (as so often happens).

It was an episode of the series Rare Earth, entitled ‘The Joy of Soil’ – and what a joy it was. It’s not wine-focused, but for anyone interested in the power of mere earth and why the way in which we farm matters, it’s brilliant – and so is much of the rest of the series. Catch it on BBC Sounds (wherever you are in the world).

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Dana Nigro is an experienced wine journalist based in New Jersey, with extensive knowledge of, and contacts in, the North American wine industry.

She will work closely with Decanter's network of correspondents and contributors to deliver authoritative reporting, expert analysis and trusted wine recommendations for Decanter's global audience.

'I am thrilled to be joining Decanter, a brand I have long admired for its rich legacy, trusted expertise and commitment to providing consumers with reliable, timely wine education and buying advice,' said Nigro.

'I look forward to working with Decanter's talented team of editors and correspondents to build on its strong presence across North America, showcasing the diversity of the wine scenes in the US, Canada and Mexico, while bringing the latest developments in the region to Decanter's global audience and introducing even more North American readers to the brand's award-winning content, events and experiences.'

Jonny Sullens, Managing Director of Decanter, added: 'Dana understands both the traditions that make wine journalism valuable and the evolving ways audiences discover and engage with content today.

'North America remains one of the most dynamic and influential wine regions in the world, and Dana's extensive network, reporting experience, and passion for the subject make her exceptionally well positioned to lead Decanter's coverage.'

Jonathan Cristaldi, who served in an ambassadorial role as Acting North America Regional Editor from April until Nigro’s appointment, remains as Decanter’s Napa Valley correspondent, a position he has held since 2021.

Riesling, sustainability… and scuba diving

Nigro spent more than 25 years with Wine Spectator in New York City, where she started as news editor, then became a senior editor for the magazine and the digital managing editor – responsible for the website, social media and apps.

She fell in love with wine while studying magazine journalism in New York’s Finger Lakes wine region, where she took advantage of the excellent wine program at Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration.

As a result, one of her passions is Riesling. Another is sustainability in wine – from the vineyard soil to the winery buildings to the bottles (and boxes).

While reporting on US wine, Nigro reported on major developments, such as the battle to legalize direct shipping up through the US Supreme Court decision in Granholm v Heald, the rise of women in California’s wine industry, and the evolution of West Coast winegrowing from its early sustainability certifications to its movement toward regenerative farming.

Before her wine career, she worked at a fine-dining restaurant, served as a reporter covering local news and the international travel industry, and taught scuba diving.

Nigro can be contacted at teamusa@decanter.com

For decades, Languedoc-Roussillon has been France's viticultural engine room. Stretching from Provence to the Pyrenees, this sultry southern sweep of vineyards produces around a third of the country's wine, much of it historically destined for volume rather than distinction. That reputation has been slow to shift, but the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) results suggest it is now shifting – and fast.

France led the medal charts once again at the world's largest wine competition and its prestige regions delivered as expected, with Burgundy alone claiming five Best in Show wines from Premier and Grand Cru sites. But one of the most compelling French stories of the year came from much further south, where Languedoc-Roussillon recorded its best-ever Gold tally, 31 in all, alongside two Best in Show wines and three Platinums.

The signature of Pic Saint-Loup

Stand in a vineyard below Pic Saint-Loup, the jagged tooth of limestone that gives this corner of the Languedoc its name and take a moment to crush a sprig of wild thyme between your fingers. That scent, the resinous tangle of thyme, rosemary and sun-baked stone the French call garrigue, hangs in the air, settles in the soil and the region's winemakers will tell you, finds its way into the wine itself.

One of the Languedoc's top-scoring red wines is Bergerie du Capucin's Dame Jeanne, a Syrah-led 2023 from this very appellation, the cool, high ground tucked against the foothills of the Cévennes.

For owner Guilhem Viau, the secret is the weather. 'Our northern location, at the foothills of the Cévennes, creates a unique microclimate,' he says, one of cold winters, wide swings between day and night, and far more rain than the parched coast. The result, he explains, is closer to the Northern Rhône than to the Mediterranean: 'fine, elegant tannins and a touch of natural acidity', with the peppery, violet-scented lift that marks the appellation out. The judges agreed, calling it a 'supremely classy wine' of 'resolutely pure and unadulterated fruit'.

Pic Saint-Loup underlined its growing reputation with a Platinum for Château Lancyre's Grande Cuvée 2022. Here it is the surrounding scrubland that leaves its fingerprint, says the estate's owner Régis Valentin, lending the wine 'those characteristic notes of garrigue, thyme, rosemary, menthol, that are the signature of Pic Saint-Loup'.

Beyond a single appellation

What gives the region's year real weight is that the quality extends well beyond Pic Saint-Loup. The second Best in Show went to Les Coins Perdus Du Midi's playfully named Bong Ving Putaing Cong, a Grenache-Carignan-Syrah blend from Maury Sec, the young dry-red appellation created in 2011 on the dramatic Agly Valley sites long associated with Maury's dark, sweet fortified wines. It was a first for the appellation at this level and, at 15.5%, hardly a shy wine, but the judges found more than power, praising its 'great complexity and sense of place' and calling it 'a stunning debut for Maury Sec at the highest levels of our competition'.

Inland, Terrasses du Larzac, one of the Languedoc's most closely watched young appellations, took a Platinum for Mas de la Séranne's Antonin et Louis 2023. For winemaker Amandine Venture, the high, cool plateau does the work:

The third Platinum came from the broad IGP Pays d'Oc, for Domaine de Castelnau's L'Etendoir des Fées 2023, a pure Syrah the judges praised for its 'sensational tapenade, black pepper and herb aromas' and 'amazing typicity'. Between them, the three wines map the region's range, from a named cru against the Cévennes to a rising plateau appellation to a humble regional IGP, all reaching the same rarefied tier.

A dynamic region

For all its reputation as red-blend country, the region's 2026 results tell a broader story.

Down in the Roussillon, the southern half of the region, William Jonquères d'Oriola took a Top Value Gold for his Villa d'Oriola Chardonnay 2025, a white from a family that has made wine at the Château de Corneilla, by his account, 'from father to son since 1485', some 27 generations. He sees a region remaking itself. 'Today the Roussillon is becoming a very dynamic region for whites,' he says. 'For a long time, we were known for fortified wines and reds.' The key, he believes, is the sea: hot days tempered by a cooling Mediterranean wind that 'brings freshness and a beautiful balance'.

That appetite for the new runs right through the region's results. Among the Gold medallists were a steely Roussanne-Marsanne blend from Minervois and a bright, thyme-flecked Vermentino, proof that the south's whites are catching up fast with its reds. Add the region's leading showing in France's orange-wine medals and unexpected successes with Spanish grapes, including an Albariño and even a sparkling Verdejo, and you have the sound of a region with nothing left to prove on volume, and everything to gain by exploring.

Crush that sprig of thyme again. The garrigue has been here all along. What has changed is the wine being made among it, and a region once measured by the litre is now, finally, being measured by the glass.

DWWA 2026: Top-scoring Languedoc-Roussillon wines

Bergerie du Capucin, Dame Jeanne, Pic Saint-Loup 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
This is the third time Pic St Loup has featured in our Best In Show selection out of a total of six Languedoc appearances, underscoring the potential of the pure limestones and ever-changing orientations of this eastern Languedoc zone. 'The Pic' is also a little cooler and a little moister than other Languedoc appellations, meaning that it is one of the spots in this vast region where Syrah still feels comfortable and at ease. All of this was evident to our judges as they tasted this 'supremely classy wine' with its 70% Syrah component, entirely aged (for an unhurried two years) in concrete. Everyone fell in love with its herbal, floral nose, and applauded the fact that there was no oak to get in the way; the 'resolutely pure and unadulterated fruit' on the palate brought great pleasure too, 'totally open and pure-hearted', and the 'silky but persistent tannins' were much admired. It's not a wine you need to wait for, and anyone who might doubt the refreshment potential of a great Languedoc red should take a look at this Pic performance. Alcohol 14%

Bong Ving, Putaing Cong Grenache-Carignan-Syrah, Maury Sec 2025
Best in Show, 97 points
The Maury Sec appellation came into being in 2011, covering the same magnificent Agly Valley sites that have long been used for the dark, sweet and chocolate-friendly fortified wines of the Maury appellation alone. The potential here to make dense and almost shockingly rich dry red wines lent profundity by their mineral charge is enormous, and this is the first wine of this sort that we've seen emerge into the bright sunlight of our Best In Show selection. Our judging panel was hugely impressed: 'Authentic, traditional terroir-styled wine with great complexity and sense of place' summarised one. Like our Croatian Plavac Mali, at 15.5% it's not a wine for the faint-hearted and would be best served in the depths of winter, when you need reminding of summer's solar force. It's dark purple-red in colour, sending a billow of beautiful blackberry fruit up from the glass. The weight in the mouth is splendid, and the wine perfectly illustrates the way in which great tannins can be both flavoury as well as textured. Those blackberry fruits are everywhere, given lift by sappy acidity and without any oak noise to spoil the party; such oak as the wine has had is simply there to tame youthful exuberance, and the longer you spend with the fruit the more you realise that it is packed with herbal and stone complexities, too. A stunning debut for Maury Sec at the highest levels of our competition. Alc 15.5%

Domaine de Castelnau, L'Etendoir des Fées, IGP Pays d'Oc 2023
Platinum, 97 points
Sensational tapenade, black pepper and herb aromas lead the charge, colliding diligently with the blackberry juice intensity that flows liberally through to the finish line. Such amazing typicity, the sort of wine to dive right into. Alc 14.5%

Château Lancyre, Grande Cuvée, Pic Saint-Loup 2022
Platinum, 97 points
Lashings of black forest fruit and aromatic Mediterranean herbs brim under the nose, empowered by a robust structure, complete with pencil-shaving tannins and vibrant acidity. Very long with savoury persistence, carrying a calming persona in tow. Alc 14%

Mas de la Seranne, Antonin et Louis, Terrasses du Larzac 2023
Platinum, 97 points
An enticing tapestry of blackberry, plum, thyme and lavender is sewn effortlessly into the flattering oak structure, sustained by plush texture, velvet tannins and melting acidity. Elegant and composed with a phenomenal garrigue-scented finish. Fabulous. Alc 14.5%

Château Estanilles, Clos du Fou, Faugères 2023
Gold, 96 points
Darkly demure, exhibiting black cherries, violets and wild herbs that gather over the glossy texture and swirl through the pristine acidity. Sweet liquorice varnishes the length. Alc 14.5%

Maison Castel, Séries Limitées chap.vii L'équilibriste, Terrasses du Larzac 2022
Gold, 95 points
Evocative terroir-driven notes of thyme, garrigue, bay leaf and black cherry funnel through the lively mineral vein, clothing the silky tannins and pure acidity. Remarkable. Alc 14.5%

Mas Nicolas, Coingtessence, Faugères 2023
Gold, 95 points
Vivid blueberries, blackcurrants and wild herbs define the nose, whilst woody spice and cured meats furnish the palate. Silky and structured with a delicious length. Alc 14.5%

Domaine de L'Ostal, Grand Vin Blanc, Minervois 2023
Gold, 95 points
Fetching aromas of hazelnut, baked almond and honeyed pear with a soupçon of white flower ardour. Steely and sapid with a savoury Marmite tang to end. Alc 13.5%

Château La Villatade, V, Minervois 2025
Gold, 95 points. Vibrations of fruit salad: peach, nectarine, pear and pineapple with flickers of dried thyme and yellow flowers. Perky and bright with a long, cooling finish. Alc 12.5%

Discover all winners at awards.decanter.com

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It's game three of the group stages which means it's crunch time for a number of teams.

For many of our wine teams, a place in the next round is already assured. For a few more this game will decide a) if they get to progress and b) in what position. With third place qualifications being allowed this time, it's all to play for for a hopeful few.

And, sadly, for a couple of our teams it's already looking like an early exit and back home to try again in four years' time.

But, whether you're able to watch your team's final match in comfortable ease or on tenterhooks or with thwarted ambitions, we hope we can offer a few wine choices to match, with this week's pairings including a sparkling Canadian icewine, a pairing of Zweigelt and couscous, a crisp Vinho Verde and a trans-Atlantic battle of Mencías.

And if you feel the need for some... actual football analysis during this World Cup, do check in on our friends and colleagues over at FourFourTwo for all their updates and coverage.

Ines: Spain & Uruguay

Spain vs Uruguay: Well, things are definitely not going according to plan for Spain. La Roja was stunned by a surprisingly effective Cape Verde and their overnight-star goalkeeper Vozinha.

The European champions went into the game thinking it would be an easy win but the first-time-qualified Cape Verdians bravely held them to a draw.

Saudi Arabia, on the other hand, gave Spain enough space to show its true colours.

Meanwhile, Uruguay has been irregularly regular with two draws but very different performances, leaving fans at once hopeful and concerned.

It’s safe to say that both need to focus and chill out! As they prepare to face each other, it’s not a bad idea if they pick up a chillable bottle of red and find some invigorating, chiseled energy.

Maybe a battle of Mencías? Telmo Rodriguez’s Gaba Mencía has a good match (all puns intended) in Marichal’s Creatura – the same grape, the same ocean, two very different ways of interpreting both.

Classicism vs creativity; precision vs. mischief. Signs of things to happen on the field?

Julie: Argentina & Australia

Argentina (vs Jordan): With six points under its belt after defeating Austria and Algeria, Argentina has already qualified for the final 32, ahead of its final Group J match against Jordan.

What’s more, Lionel Messi is now the top goalscorer in the 2026 competition and became the World Cup's all-time record goalscorer as his double against Austria took his count to a phenomenal 18 goals.

So whatever the outcome of the Jordan match, it's cause for celebration with a bottle from one of Argentina’s leading sparkling producers, Cruzat.

Finca La Dama NV is a single-vineyard cuveé from Vista Flores in Uco, with chalky minerality and precise acidity giving complexity and finesse.

Australia (vs Paraguay): The Socceroos are currently sitting second in Group D, as their initial 2-0 victory against Turkey was countered with a 2-0 defeat to the United States.

So now it's everything to play for, as a win or a draw in their final group match against Paraguay in San Francisco would take them through to the knockout stages.

Fans attending the match may well be fuelling up on one of the city’s famous Mission-style burritos.

Pair it with Shaw + Smith Shiraz 2021 from the Adelaide Hills, packed with plum and black cherry fruit framed by savoury black olives and smoked charcuterie; well balanced with a fresh and lively finish.

James: Portugal & South Africa

Portugal (vs Colombia): Miami Stadium is expected to turn into a sea of yellow for this blockbuster match against Colombia.

It’s likely to be a fiery face off full of energy and emotion.

Pick up a bottle of Cozs’ ‘Pop Branco’ white and settle down with bowls of salty snacks to comfort you as you sit on the edge of your seat.

South Africa (vs South Korea): Will underdogs South Africa be able to absorb the Korean pressure and make it out of the group stage?

Sit down and enjoy the clash with Riebeek Cellars’ ‘A Fistful of Shiraz’, a delicious pairing for Korean fried chicken with a soy and garlic glaze thanks to its precise and crunchy dark fruits.

Natalie: Germany & New Zealand

Germany (vs Ecuador): Germany arrive in New Jersey on Thursday 25 June after putting nine goals past Curaçao and Ivory Coast combined.

Ecuador, meanwhile, have zero goals to their name so far this tournament.

Nagelmann’s team should complete this stage with minimum fuss, as they cruise into the next round.

Pour something equally unfussy and joyful with this thirst quenching Rheinhessen Riesling from Waitrose :

New Zealand (vs Ivory Coast): New Zealand may be a more established wine region than Belgium, but it's the opposite when it comes to football.

New Zealand are going to need more than their reputation for great Sauvignon Blanc to see them through their next match and salvage any chance of staying in the competition.

Maybe they can try with something a bit more left field, like this rosé made from Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot.

Tina: Croatia & Canada

Croatia (vs Ghana): These two nations face each other in Philadelphia for the last match of their Group L campaigns.

And it promises to be a juicy affair if the vibrancy of their young stars (Ghana’s Caleb Yirenkyi, aged 20, and 19-year-old Luka Vuskovic of Croatia) show what they are made of.

Whether they do or they don’t, you’ll still get all the youthful exuberance and bold, juicy character in this Teran from Istria which, like these young stars, is impressive now but has a long future ahead.

Canada (vs Switzerland): The final game for these two Group B nations again plays out at BC Place Stadium in Vancouver.

With Canada one of the joint hosts, and playing before a home crowd, I’m banking for a win (ok, I’ll settle for a draw) to advance them to the final 32.

To manifest success, I’m going with winners from the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards.

For a local Okanagan Valley white, I’d go for this 96-point Chardonnay Gold from Cedar Creek but to toast a sparkling performance and sweet victory, it has to be this Platinum-winning Vidal Blanc Icewine.

Rupert: France & Austria

France (vs Norway): The last time France faced the vikings it led to the creation of Normandy.

And France’s back four are going to have to form an impenetrable shieldwall against Norway’s line-breaking striker Erling Haaland in this deciding clash for control of the group.

Like their forebears, Norway’s team no doubt powered by copious amounts of fårikål – mutton and cabbage stew.

A hearty dish, it calls for an equally hearty wine to suit a meaty game, so why not grab a bottle of something from Bordeaux’s right bank – like this 100% Merlot from Lussac St-Emilion with notes of sweet blackberry jam, cedar and smoky spice.

Austria (vs Algeria): Has anyone ever paired Austrian wine with couscous before?

Maybe now’s the time to start in this Group J decider.

Algeria’s emblematic dish of rice with a stew of spiced vegetables and meat normally calls for a good fruity red and I reckon Austria’s Zweigelt is an ideal choice.

Try something like this from Burgenland with its soft, ripe cherry, plum and blackcurrant fruit and a twist of peppery spice.

Mark: USA & Switzerland

USA (vs Turkey): Turkish cuisine is a melange of influences from around the world. In this weather you may well be breaking out the barbie, and laying on a few kebabs would be a fine idea.

A lighter Zinfandel would be dextrous enough to cope with the style of kebab that you prefer, and the wildly unconventional’ Arnot Roberts, Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel from Lodi with its ‘fresh red and blue fruits’ would suit just fine

Switzerland (vs Canada): The pair are joint top of their group and almost dead certs to progress to the next round, so this might turn into a glorified friendly.

Perhaps take a similar approach to your wine pick, something that possesses an easy personality.

Chasselas is arguably Switzerland’s signature white grape and is renowned for its light body and low alcohol.

A recent standout example from the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards is the 90-pt Domaine Du Feuillerage, Perroy Chasselas.

Just 11.8% alcohol, and praised for its ‘inviting nose of yellow apple, pear and orchard fruit; juicy apple and a crisp acidity on the vibrant palate’.

Izzy: England & Turkey

England (vs Panama): Despite putting in a rather pedestrian performance in their goalless draw against Ghana, England shouldn’t need to worry too much going into their final first-round match, their spot in the knockouts all but guaranteed.

For a refreshing, easy-drinking sparkling rosé that will go down well in the heat (and the UK has been hotter than Panama recently!) try The Grange’s Pink Brut.

‘Feather-light’ and bursting with red berries, it rated highly in a recent panel tasting and will make a delightful accompaniment to the match on Saturday.

Turkey (vs USA): Turkey’s final first round match will be against hosts USA in Los Angeles’ Inglewood Stadium, but they're only playing for pride at this point with two losses putting them out of the competition.

For a wine that punches above its weight in value and which would certainly impress your hosts, try this refined and smoky Oküzgözü.

The winery, Doluca, celebrates its centenary this year – let’s hope it can find something else to celebrate other than the Turkish team's performance.

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Susie Barrie MW, Matt Hodgson and Dror Nativ MW tasted 66 wines, with 11 Outstanding and 40 Highly recommended

English sparkling wine: Panel tasting scores

66 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 11

Highly recommended 40

Recommended 14

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release brut or drier-style white, rosé or red traditional-method sparkling wines, single varietals or blends, produced in the UK using a blend of multiple vintages and labelled as non-vintage or multi-vintage

It was the year of the London Olympics, not to mention Queen Elizabeth ll’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations.

But for UK wine, 2012 was an annus horribilis on a scale hitherto unseen in the modern era.

When a vintage that bad comes along, having a stock of reserve wines to draw on is an essential blending tool in any traditional-method sparkling winemaker’s arsenal.

Sadly, given the nascency of the UK industry at that time, very few wineries had a reserve wine programme.

But as Hattingley Valley’s then head winemaker Emma Rice said: ‘2012 spurred us on to do it’.

Fast forward to today and the industry has evolved from producing largely single-vintage wines to one where non-vintage (NV) and multi-vintage (MV) bottlings play a growing role.

Hence this panel tasting, which also perfectly demonstrated how quality is rising seemingly exponentially.

As Dror Nativ MW stated: ‘If you consider the number of high scores we gave today, there’s really smart, consistent winemaking in England.’

Depth of flavour

Matt Hodgson concurred, adding: ‘I think non- and multi-vintage is the right direction of travel for the English wine industry’, and all the judges agreed that the wines containing higher levels of reserves (or just based on older vintages) delivered greater complexity and depth of flavour.

It’s also worth mentioning that almost all the wines we rated Outstanding (95 points or more) had seen oak and spent considerable time on lees, which added further layers of flavour.

One noteworthy observation was the way in which the whites outperformed the rosé wines (of the 30 wines scoring 93-96pts, only eight were rosé).

Hodgson commented: ‘We’ve always been big advocates of English sparkling rosé [at retailer Grape Britannia] and they were great – it’s just the whites were even better.’

Beyond quality, what I find exciting is that, in the key sweet spot of £30-£50, the best UK wines offer excellent value.

As Nativ said: ‘Based on the tasting today, we saw brilliant value compared to either Champagne or any worldclass sparkling wines.’

I couldn’t agree more.

See all notes and scores from the UK sparkling wines tasting

The judges

UK sparkling wines panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Drive through the Kent countryside today and, between the apple and pear orchards, you'll catch sight of something that would have raised eyebrows not so long ago: long rows of vines, combed neatly across the chalk soils. This was cereal and hop country once. Now the region grows some of the most talked-about wines in the world.

The change has been astonishingly quick. In 2005, the UK had fewer than 800 hectares of vines. By 2024, it had more than 4,800 - a rise of over 500% in under two decades. Warmer, longer summers explain part of it. Average temperatures across the main wine regions have risen by roughly 1°C in recent decades, helping grapes ripen where they once struggled.

But the climate is only half the story. Investment has flowed into land and wineries, cellar doors have become weekend destinations, and a new generation of growers has decided England is worth the gamble.

That bet is paying off. At the 23rd edition of the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), the world's largest wine competition, the UK's 2026 results show that a new era has dawned for local winemakers.

While bubbles still lead the way, still wines, new counties and even Welsh vineyards are stepping up onto the podium.

Bubbles still set the pace

For the second year running, the UK's sole Best in Show, the rarest accolade the competition awards, went to a sparkling wine in magnum: Balfour's Blanc de Blancs, Kent 2018, a pure Chardonnay that spent years on its lees before release.

For Balfour's Fergus Elias, the secret is the big bottle itself. A magnum ages more slowly, he explains, which 'helps preserve freshness while allowing the wine to build texture, depth and complexity over time'. The reward is a wine that keeps 'the purity and drive of the fruit, but with more breadth, softness and savoury character'. He puts it more plainly, too: 'I bloody love magnums!’

Still wine stirring

Still wine is stirring too. Tidebrook's Staddle Stone Chardonnay, Sussex 2023, became the first English still Chardonnay ever to achieve a Platinum, scoring a remarkable 97 points.

Behind it is an unusual story. Winemaker Christy Jordan's family spent almost four decades running Jordan Wine Estate in South Africa before turning their attention to Sussex.

Reds are joining the conversation, too. A still Pinot Noir from Higham Vineyard earned Suffolk its first red medal DWWA 2026, a small but telling sign that English ambitions now stretch well beyond fizz.

The map is still being drawn

One of the most exciting headlines from this year’s awards is that England's wine country is spilling well past the traditional areas of Kent, Sussex and Hampshire.

Berkshire, a historic county situated west of London, landed its first-ever Platinum for Winding Wood's Rosé Brut 2022. 'What an accolade for West Berkshire,' says owner Christopher Cooke, who farms a boutique plot where, by his own account, he is 'on first-name terms with my vines'. His point is simple, and increasingly true across the country: 'Small can be beautiful.'

Oxfordshire broke new ground as well, claiming its first Gold for Hundred Hills' Hillside No. 3 2019, another magnum. Winemaker Stephen Duckett credits the land itself, those 'thin, nutrient-deficient chalk soils and cool, dry, maritime microclimate', worked by hand with near-obsessive care. Elsewhere, counties from Rutland to Shropshire appeared on the medal roster for the very first time.

Then there is Wales. Burgeoning and built on a handful of passionate micro-producers, but definitely making its mark. White Castle Vineyard in Monmouthshire took a Silver for its Pinot Noir Précoce 2023. 'Wales, so often overlooked, is emerging as a gem in the UK wine industry,' says owner Robb Merchant MBE, 'proving that something truly special can flourish in areas thought to be challenging.'

Sparkling may have built the UK wine reputation. Now, still wine is broadening it. And from the chalk of Berkshire to the hills of Monmouthshire, the message is the same: do not underestimate what can grow here.

DWWA 2026: Top-scoring UK wines

Balfour, Blanc de Blancs, Kent, England 2018 (in magnum)
Best in Show, 97 points
For the second year in a row, the sparkling wine which most impressed our GB and Ireland panel was one bottled in magnum. In contrast to last year’s Sussex blend, though, the 2026 laureate was a Blanc de Blancs wine from Kent. It was a much younger wine, too – a 2018 rather than a 2009. A youthful style, then, with a seethe of fine-beaded bubbles and incision to the fore in its sensual profile? Absolutely. But remember what a generous summer the UK enjoyed in 2018. The aromas of this pale sparkler sing: poised lemon cream, sourdough and cut stone tease and linger in the glass. While the palate is bracing, mouth-watering and impactful, that splendid season is evident in its length and resonance. The extra-dry style throws the spotlight on the wine’s fruit qualities (orchard fruits as well as lemony citrus) and the quality of its acidity (dominant, taut yet unquestionably ripe -- as you can see in the wine’s latent aromatics). This is an English wine magnum with a long future ahead if well stored. Alcohol 12%

Tidebrook, Staddle Stone Chardonnay, Sussex, England 2023
Platinum, 97 points
An exquisite synchronicity of lush lemon curd and succulent stone fruit underscored by the cool climate tension of chalky minerals. Racy acidity ripples through the sheen of creamy oak complexity and garnishes the long finish. Alc 12.5%

Winding Wood, Rosé Brut, Berkshire, England 2022
Platinum,97 points
Ethereal rose garden and subtle strawberry and red apple aromatics weave into the plush toasted brioche core. Beautifully fresh with a gentle yet persuasive mousse and a long, allusive finish. An allegory of national intent. Alc 12%

Chapel Down, Kit's Coty Coeur de Cuvée Extra Brut, Kent, England 2016
Gold, 96 points
Deliciously evolving aromas of ripe apple, quince, caramel and bread fill out the plump structure and settled mousse, quenched by the tapering lemon tonic acidity. Alc 12%

Hundred Hills, Hillside No. 3, Oxfordshire, England 2019 (in magnum)
Gold, 96 points
Sizzling with energy; comprising vivid citrus, biscuit and chalky mineral elegance that harmonises with the ample texture and plush creamy mousse. Very complete and long. Alc 12%

Wiston, Blanc de Blancs Brut, West Sussex, England 2018
Gold, 96 points
Ebullient tropical fruit and floral aromas thrive over the frothy, mouth-filling bubbles with a subtle acidity finely tuning. Savoury, creamy notes gather at the end. Alc 12%

Bluestone, Premier Reserve Brut, England 2018
Gold, 95 points
Smouldering smoky matchstick characters pair admirably with a fine veneer of lemon tart, brioche and apricot jam. A plush opulence cushions the pervading acidity. Exceptional. Alc 12%

Coolhurst Vineyards, Lady Elizabeth, Sussex, England 2018
Gold, 95 points
An attractive composure of fresh strawberries, raspberries, cherries and red apples allied with sumptuous brioche and savoury saline charm. Weighty and structured with supple mousse. Alc 12%

Gusbourne, Boot Hill Vineyard Chardonnay, Kent, England 2022
Gold, 95 points
Assonant aromas of baked apple, pear and creamy oak sit regally over the luxuriant structure and ease gently towards the deceptively long finish. Perfectly expressed Chardonnay. Alc 13%

Hambledon, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Hampshire, England NV
Gold, 95 points
A paradigm of English character: floral, green cow-parsley and vanilla cream aromas fold into the exuberant lemon-pith mousse and racy acidity. Very long and compelling. Alc 12%

Discover all winners at awards.decanter.com

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In general, fine wine prices have continued to stabilise in 2026. ‘Prices have stopped going down and in little niches they have gone up a bit,’ said Geraint Carter, of international merchant Bordeaux Index and the LiveTrade online trading platform.

Major indices at Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, were broadly flat in the four months to 30 April.

Its Fine Wine 50 index, tracking Bordeaux first growths, performed best, rising 0.7%. Miles Davis, market expert at Vinum Fine Wines, with offices in the UK and Asia, reported strong wealthy buyer interest in ‘high octane, rare’ wines, plus resurgent demand in China, despite a ‘dreary’ overall market.

Vinum also sold more Pontet-Canet 2025 than expected as Bordeaux en primeur got underway. Carter characterised the market as ‘challenging’ with bursts of activity.

Top sellers include five-star Bordeaux and middle-aged Champagne (see box, below).

Some LiveTrade bidders have found willing sellers below market prices, yet Bordeaux Index has also sold large format, ex-château stock at surprisingly high prices.

Global consultancy group Knight Frank highlighted a rising thirst for visually appealing, large-format bottles over the past decade.

‘The growing prevalence of glass-fronted wine rooms in prime homes is influencing what collectors buy,’ said its 2026 Wealth Report, citing Liv-ex as a data partner.

Some auction houses have been enjoying a purple patch. Nick Pegna, global head of wines and spirits at Sotheby’s, said: ‘We have really seen a change from September last year onwards. For the year so far globally, we’ve sold 96% of the lots that we’ve offered, which is stronger than we’ve seen for a number of years.’

Collectors are currently seeking out mature, ready-to-drink fine wines at a range of different price levels, he said.

‘There are people happy to buy a £150 bottle of mature Pichon Comtesse, as well as people spending 200,000 [US] dollars on 1870 Lafite, and everything in between.’

However, looking ahead, Pegna echoed other trade members in expressing caution regarding a turbulent geopolitical and macroeconomic environment.

The Bordeaux Index view

Fine wine & spirits specialist Bordeaux Index kindly sponsors this section of Decanter, and provides its view on the market here every issue. It can be found at bordeauxindex.com

First among equals?

Bordeaux’s relative decline in the fine wine market over the past 15-20 years has felt almost inexorable.

In 2010’s China-led buying frenzy, it formed close to 80% of our trade by value; today that figure is nearer 40%.

To traditionalists, this can seem faintly apostatic, but it simply reflects the habits of modern consumers.

The world of fine wine has broadened hugely. Burgundy, Champagne and Tuscany have all improved dramatically in quality, consistency and market prominence.

Consumers now have access to a far wider range of great wines than ever before, and Bordeaux’s dominance was never going to survive unchanged.

Ironically, Bordeaux itself has never been more technically accomplished; the region is producing more delicious and consistent wines across all price levels.

Yet modern tastes aren’t driven solely by quality. Long ageing windows, overt brand orientation and an overall air of seriousness can feel out of step in an age infatuated with immediacy, personality and narratives.

Still, Bordeaux retains unrivalled scale, liquidity and recognition, and a habit of producing extraordinary wines in great vintages. In many respects, it feels less like a fallen empire, more like a ‘first among equals’.

As en primeur rolls on with reduced traction, the challenge is less about reclaiming dominance than showing why the system still deserves consumers’ attention.

Andrew Lloyd Webber and ‘immortal’ Bordeaux lead auction scene

Celebrated composer and musical impresario Andrew Lloyd Webber has auctioned wine cellar treasures via Christie’s in London, raising £517,910 for musical instruments and tuition in schools.

Every lot sold, with a bottle of Château Margaux 1900 fetching £35,000, including buyer’s premium, outpacing a pre-sale high estimate of £7,000. Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti delivered the highest price in the sale, however.

A three-bottle lot of Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 2005 sold for £56,250, including buyer’s premium (high estimate: £45,000).

All hammer proceeds will go to the Andrew Lloyd Webber Programme, which is administered by the Music in Secondary Schools Trust.

It has been another busy period for high-profile auctions generally. In New York, a Sotheby’s auction of ‘immortal’ Bordeaux vintages also saw every lot find a buyer.

Total sales hit $2.1m (£1.55m), $800,000 above the pre-sale high estimate. Flagship lots included two magnums of Lafite Rothschild 1870, a hallowed vintage.

Both came from a well-preserved cellar at Scotland’s Glamis Castle more than 50 years ago. While the first magnum fetched $106,250, including buyer’s premium, the second sold for $200,000 – four times its pre-sale high estimate, Sotheby’s said.

In the UK, Dreweatts auctioned Lord Rothschild’s Stowell Park cellar and again, all lots sold.

A double magnum of Lafite Rothschild 1975 fetched £2,100 (hammer price; high e: £1,500). A six-litre imperial of d’Yquem 1994 fetched £1,250 (hammer price; high e: £800).

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I was chatting to a winemaker recently over dinner, and I confided in him an insecurity of mine.

I explained that while I didn’t normally find it difficult to describe the style of any given Rhône vintage, I found it peculiarly challenging to succinctly summarise that of 2022.

‘Don’t worry,’ he said. ‘I feel the same way.’ It helped put my mind at rest. But I’m still determined to get to grips with this slippery customer.

In any given year, wines tend to perform rather like flocks of birds or shoals of fish: there might be smaller sub-groups or individual outliers, but the majority move in the same direction to create a general vintage style.

The 2022, however, is unusually chaotic.

The season

Lewis Bungener of Clos de Caveau says ‘2022 was a very particular vintage – one that initially caused real concern.’

Between 15 October 2021 and 1 September 2022, just 300mm of rain fell in the southern Rhône, compared to an average of 600mm.

Combined with the intense heat (it was the hottest May on record) many vines simply shut down and stopped growing in order to conserve water.

‘The rain that eventually came in late summer changed everything,’ says Bungener.

‘The effect was extraordinary: what had threatened to become heavy wines with dry, harsh tannins found an incredible balance, gaining freshness and definition. That said, producers who misjudged maturity timings did still suffer.’

Cécile Dusserre of Domaine de Montvac agrees, saying: ‘We had two nights of rain on 7 and 8 September, and we finished harvesting on 14 September.’

Rain at harvest can cause grapes to rot, but conditions had been so hot and dry, the water was welcome.

‘It allowed for a more relaxed juice and lowered the concentration of the berries,’ says Dusserre.

Though controlled irrigation is permitted in Vacqueyras, it was gratifying to see that some of the best wines this year were produced by estates that don’t water their vines, such as Domaine de Montvac, Domaine Montirius and Domaine la Monardière.

It proves that even in very dry years, Vacqueyras can still produce excellent wines, which bodes well for an uncertain future.

The tasting

These extreme conditions created a series of obstacles and pitfalls that vignerons were forced to navigate. Not everyone succeeded.

The year started with a huge abundance of grapes. Those who failed to drop fruit often struggled to eventually ripen all their berries, ending up with green, unripe flavours.

The lack of rain during the growing season produced very small berries, with little juice but thick skins. For some, excessive extraction led to tough tannins.

Intense heat can cause many problems, and some wines suffered from high alcohol – though not as many as I expected. Instances of low acidity or pruney fruit were thankfully rare.

And finally, some wines failed to make the grade simply due to excessive oak. Layering oak tannins on top of robust fruit tannins produced some inelegant, clunky wines.

But many producers managed to sidestep some or all these potential snares to create wines of balance and drinkability.

The verdict

Having had a few years in bottle to come together, many are now looking better than they did from barrel – both whites and reds.

I felt happy to recommend around half the wines I tasted, and they are featured below.

And many of those who did succeed really excelled.

As Bungener says: ‘The vintage across the region produced a mixed picture but for those who managed the conditions well, 2022 produced wines of real distinction: a rare combination of richness and fullness alongside finesse and freshness.’

This tasting helped me to understand this confounding year. The key is this: the best wines excel despite the vintage, not because of it.

The best Vacqueyras 2022 wines in bottle

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Fortified wines get forgotten in the summer. As temperatures rise, we instinctively reach for crisp whites, rosé, or beer, while bottles of Port, Sherry, and Madeira remain firmly associated with winter indulgence.

Yet this broad and diverse category extends far beyond rich, sweet after-dinner wines.

Many of its finest expressions are dry, savoury, and refreshingly high in acidity, making them ideal aperitifs and remarkably versatile partners at the table.

Unsurprisingly, most originate in some of Europe's hottest wine-growing regions, where locals have long enjoyed them alongside simple seasonal dishes.

Here's where to start.

White Port, Portugal

Cocktail lovers would do well to rediscover White Port. Produced in Portugal's Douro Valley from indigenous grape varieties such as Gouveio and Malvasia Fina, fermentation is stopped by the addition of aguardente, a neutral grape spirit, preserving natural grape sugar and raising the alcohol to around 20%.

The result is a wine with ripe stone fruit flavours, dried herbs, and subtle nutty complexity from barrel ageing.

Served chilled, it makes an excellent aperitif in its own right.

Better still, try the Porto Tónico, Portugal's favourite summer serve.

Mix one part White Port with two parts tonic water over plenty of ice, then garnish with a wedge of citrus, a slice of peach, and a sprig of mint.

Refreshing, aromatic, and effortlessly elegant.

Sercial Madeira, Portugal

Madeira deserves serious attention in the warmer months.

Produced on the subtropical Atlantic island of the same name, these fortified wines are renowned for their complex, oxidative character and remarkable acidity.

Sercial is the driest of Madeira's styles and is particularly refreshing in warm weather. Served cold, it offers flavours of lemon peel, toasted nuts, and dried herbs, balanced by a searing acidity that keeps you coming back.

Pair it with salted pistachios, charcuterie, and tangy goat's cheese, and it becomes the ultimate sundowner.

Fino & Manzanilla Sherry, Spain

Head to Jerez in southern Spain and you'll find Fino and Manzanilla, summer drinking at its finest.

Made from Palomino and aged beneath a layer of living yeast known as flor, they develop wonderfully savoury flavours of bread dough, almonds, sea spray, and a briny quality reminiscent of a dirty martini.

At just 15% ABV, Fino is among the lightest fortified wines available. Serve it ice cold and drink it fresh, as this is not a wine to keep in the cellar.

Lay your table with olives, anchovies, salty crisps, and a free-poured Fino, and you'll be transported straight to a balmy evening in Andalucia.

Marsala Vergine, Sicily

Sicily's famous fortified wine is too often dismissed as a cooking ingredient. In reality, the wines are incredibly complex and age-worthy.

The finest dry examples, such as Marsala Vergine, are serious yet refreshing wines. Serve chilled alongside bottarga pasta or grilled fish with spiced couscous.

The combination of nutty depth, bright acidity, and savoury character makes it an unexpected and sophisticated dinner companion.

The golden rule for summer fortified: go dry, serve cold, pair with something salty, and drink in the sun.

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Other than the island of Corsica, I barely knew where I was. A last-minute invite, a skimmed itinerary.

All I knew was: if you're invited to the Île de Beauté – in January or any time of year – you say yes.

Flying south, I left the torpor of a Paris winter and arrived in Bonifacio. It sounds Italian because Corsica was indeed part of Italy far longer than France.

At the airport I received a text from my brother in LA: ‘Just watch your back,’ with a link to some breaking news.

Earlier that day, a Corsican man was taken out by a sniper while attending his mother’s funeral at a village church.

A member of a rival mafia ring, he'd been living in exile in Nicaragua, and only travelled back for the funeral. The Île de Beauté is as edgy as it is beautiful.

Edges, after all, are where the drama of life happens. Where one thing ends and another begins, where exposure is total and forces intersect.

A landscape of rock and wind

On the island's southern tip, wind blasts this mountain in the sea from three sides.

At the Bouches de Bonifacio, the narrow strait separating Corsica from Sardinia, wind is not a passing weather event so much as a permanent condition.

Leaning into it atop the limestone cliffs that plunge into the azure sea, you sense the same elemental energy that flows through the wines of Corsica's wild edge.

Corsica is less an island than a granite rock emerging from the sea. The strait of Bonifacio is the windiest stretch of the Mediterranean, and the luminous island rivals anywhere in France for sunshine.

Almost a quarter of the island sits above 1,000m, with more than 20 peaks exceeding 2,000m.

This extreme juxtaposition means you could swim in the morning and ski in the afternoon.

Vines trace the valleys and steep slopes of granitic, schist and limestone soils, amid native cork oaks, olives and the dense, fragrant maquis – Corsica's version of southern France's garrigue.

Herds of handsome, bell-clanging Corsican goats roam the craggy hills, kept in check by magnificent local dogs called Cursinu.

Hawks and seabirds ride the currents of deliciously fresh, salt-laden air.

Although tired when I arrived, I was immediately energised by the bright sun, 20-degree mid-January temperature and almost unbearable beauty.

Part of it, too, was an oceanic atmosphere charged with negative ions.

The chemistry of the sea

Southern Corsica's constant sea breeze not only tempers the sun and heat exposure of the vines, the air circulation keeping them free of disease and allowing almost every vineyard to be organic, but also carries an abundance of negative ions – atoms or molecules with more electrons than protons – generated as the chemical bonds of water molecules are broken through the crashing of waves, the endless movement of the sea, and the dispersion of saltwater by the wind.

Similar to the refreshing sensation experienced near waterfalls, or even a good shower, coastal air is charged with these particles, which a substantial body of scientific research demonstrates has health benefits such as improved mood and increased energy levels.

A walk on the beach or dip in the sea is nature’s best anti-depressant.

More than terroir

In wine, we spend too much time looking down, limiting the discussion of terroir to what's underground.

In Corsica, the eye is inevitably drawn up and out.

Here, the landscape itself argues that airoir and méroir – the elemental forces of air and sea – deserve a place in the conversation alongside soil and sun.

Oceanic influences, arriving from three sides, are clearly imprinted on Corsica's three southern appellations – Corse Porto-Vecchio, Corse Figari and Corse Sartène. Here you don't find sun-baked Mediterranean wines, but those with edge.

The appellations of southern Corsica

In Corse Porto-Vecchio, Corsica's smallest appellation, vines cling to arid limestone and granite hillsides, facing the sea and battered by the winds.

At Domaine Torraccia, the flagship Oriu rouge – a blend of Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu – marries power and precision.

The Alligria Blanc – a barrel-fermented Vermentinu – nods toward white Burgundy yet speaks its own tongue.

Domaine de Granajolo's Le J cuvée takes a similar path – structured, textural Vermentinu built to last.

At Domaine de Solenzara, mother and daughter Fabienne and Victoria Lucchini make wonderfully salty, electric Vermentinu and rosé from granite hills that drop into the sea.

Moving south to the Corse Figari appellation, the landscape becomes more open and exposed, the cork oaks, olives, maquis and vines appearing as wind-sculpted bonsais.

Planted five centuries before Christ, it's Corsica’s oldest winescape, still home to forgotten varieties that thrive on limestone and granite despite the harsh conditions.

The quality level is extremely high across the nine producers in the appellation – Domaine de Tanella, Domaine de Peretti della Rocca and Domaine Nicolai among the standouts.

But Clos Canarelli is the revelation of the south – perhaps of all Corsica.

The crispy-crunchy grape

East of Figari, the star of the Corse Sartène appellation is the grape called Sciaccarellu, whose name means ‘crispy-crunchy between the teeth’.

These pale ruby reds display extraordinary aromatic intensity: concentrated red berries, white pepper, wild herbs.

Sartène's granite soils lend structure and depth to the grape’s natural silkiness, producing graceful, age-worthy island reds.

The rosés are equally compelling – vibrant, precise and beguilingly aromatic, made mostly from Sciaccarellu with occasional additions of native whites such as the rare Genovese or Biancu Gentile.

Standout producers include Domaine Castellu di Baricci and Domaine Saparale.

My Parisian neighbours told me 'everything the Corsicans touch turns to gold' – and the vineyards, wines, and wineries of the south speak to that.

As does the charcuterie they pride themselves on, and even the incredible oranges they serve as dessert.

With its own grapes, culture and conditions, Corsica isn’t trying to be Burgundy or Barolo – it’s not quite France, not quite Italy, but an island unto itself.

An island where wind sings through elemental wines from the wild edge of a mountain in the sea.

The producers to know in southern Corsica:

• Buzzo Bunifazziu
• Clos Canarelli
• Domaine Andriella
• Domaine Castellu di Baricci
• Domaine de Granajolo
• Domaine de Peretti della Rocca
• Domaine de Piscia Finidori
• Domaine de Solenzara
• Domaine de Tanella
• Domaine Nicolai
• Domaine Saparale
• Domaine Torraccia

11 wild Corsican wines to try

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C yril Henschke took the extraordinary step in 1952 of citing the source vineyard on a wine label: Mount Edelstone Shiraz.

It was unheard of in Australia at the time, but Henschke realised that this 16ha site in South Australia’s Eden Valley produced Shiraz grapes that stood apart from its neighbours and deserved to be celebrated as a unique entity.

Mount Edelstone Shiraz, which celebrates 70 vintages in 2026, provides an important landmark for Australian wine by identifying site and terroir as a defining feature.

While other famous wines capture a distinctive Australian character through multi-regional or multi-variety blends – such as Penfolds’ Grange, Yalumba’s The Signature, Hardy’s Eileen Hardy and Wendouree’s wines – the action that Cyril Henschke took to highlight a single vineyard introduced a new, rarefied Australian fine wine story.

Within two years, Henschke had issued a second single-vineyard Shiraz – from the 4ha Hill of Grace Vineyard, planted in 1860 – which commanded a higher price because of its extremely limited production.

It declared a powerful statement that linked prestige to place. By the early 1980s, key vineyards that provided integral components to famous brands were being mentioned on the labels of a number of elite Australian wines – including Orlando’s St Hugo (from Coonawarra), Centenary Hill and Steingarten (both from Barossa), and St Hallett’s Old Block Shiraz (also from Barossa).

It placed great value on a league of century-old vineyards and their specific characteristics.

Singing their praises

By the 2010s, more Australian winemakers believed these deserved to be vinified and issued as single-site wines, rather than being labelled as ‘Reserve’ wines – a movement that underlined growing ambition to earn more plaudits on the world stage.

Talent and ideas matched this ambition, signalling the emergence of a ‘grand cru’ status in Australian wine – an important refocusing on specific sites that highlights the continuing maturity of Australian winemaking and wine marketing.

Recent historical tastings reveal the distinct personalities of superior locations – most notably Yangarra’s examination of all 15 vintages of its High Sands Grenache, vindicating the winery’s decision to reserve this extraordinary parcel, which defines the best of elite Australian Grenache.

Plenty of flagbearers are capturing specific aspects of the best old vineyards to produce wines of specific character.

Beyond the 10 sites listed here, Cullen’s 1971-planted Margaret River vineyard stands as a leading light of biodynamic viticulture. Brokenwood’s Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz provides a definitive Hunter Valley wine expression.

And also in Margaret River, the Vasse Felix home vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec produce the exemplary Tom Cullity.

Sites in the spotlight

More winemakers are being inspired to pursue single-site expressions of excellence, and to place renewed focus on historic sites in prime locations.

Toby Bekkers spent five years reviving a Clarendon vineyard (planted between 1842 and 1848) that had been the initial poster-site of South Australian wine, but since the 1970s had become derelict through neglect.

Now Bekkers Wines is producing single-site Clarendon Vineyard Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache of outstanding quality.

Sites are flourishing after careful research to maximise the potential of superior terroir. Shaw & Smith’s Lenswood Vineyard introduced intensive vine planting (about 4,800 vines per hectare) to naturally reduce crop load, resulting in exceptional Chardonnay.

In Western Australia’s Franklin River region, Swinney’s bush-vine Mourvedre is planted alongside Grenache and Shiraz on an ironstone gravel hilltop at the family’s Powderbark vineyard – and winemaker Rob Mann is producing three single-variety wines of extraordinary finesse.

Such celebrated outcomes don’t happen by accident. Meticulous, intelligent viticulture and vine health and soil restoration programs ensure these vines continue to produce extraordinary fruit that sits in idyllic balance – many in better shape now than ever.

The best is probably still ahead of us.

Henschke Mount Edelstone Vineyard

Eden Valley, South Australia

The 16ha Mount Edelstone Vineyard was an anomaly when pastoralist Ronald Angas planted only Shiraz vines on its rocky red loam soils in 1912, rather than follow the Barossa tradition of mixing several varieties.

His neighbour Cyril Henschke recognised the unique characteristics of this east-facing, 400m-high site when he started making wine from these grapes in the 1950s, and purchased the vineyard in 1974.

Now, viticulturist Prue Henschke nurtures the network of 1,300 old vines with biodynamic practices that have dramatically improved fruit quality from its 11 blocks – with Blocks G and H in the lower southeast portion of the vineyard being the winemakers’ favourite parcels.

From 1989, Prue introduced an upright trellis system to allow more even light onto ripening fruit.

‘This had an immediate effect on the wines,’ she says. ‘It amplified colour and brought great clarity and purity to the fruit flavours and subtle aromas. Vineyard attention led to sharper wine definition.’

This ensures great acid retention in the grapes and promotes an earthy savouriness to the palate, evident during Henschke’s February 2026 tasting event, hosted at the historic cellars in Keyneton, Eden Valley to examine key Mount Edelstone vintages between 1952 and 2022.

Highlights included the sprightly, lean 1958, sustained by the Mount Edelstone vineyard’s characteristic gentle tannins; and the recurring terroir hallmarks that showed off the vineyard’s twin personalities, with warmer vintages showing red earth and red spice as prominent features, and cooler vintages revealing lively sage and bay leaf herbal aromas over lush blackberry and black pepper.

Henschke Hill of Grace

Barossa, South Australia

Success for Mount Edelstone Shiraz inspired Cyril Henschke to elevate another single-site wine, this one produced from an even more precious vineyard resource – the small Hill of Grace Vineyard, with its gnarled Shiraz vines from the 1860s.

Planted on original rootstock, these fragile sentinels are among few surviving ancient relics to have avoided the impact of the destructive vine-root louse phylloxera – and they produce fruit of extraordinary intensity and unique character.

Dry-grown on clay-rich alluvial soils overlain by a layer of fine, sandy-silty loam, Shiraz from a 4ha portion of the Hill of Grace vineyard is treated with reverential care, benefiting from careful organic composting and mulching to ensure maximum microbial activity in the soil and optimal vine health.

Each portion of the vineyard is handpicked at different times around the full moon at Easter (significantly later than neighbouring Eden Valley and Barossa vineyards), yielding only about 2.5 tonnes of tiny berries per hectare, compared to 4 tonnes or so at Jim Barry’s Armagh vineyard, one of South Australia’s elite Shiraz sites.

It provides coiled power in a dark, inky wine that unfurls slowly over time in the cellar to scale monumental peaks.

These include the phenomenal 2010 and 2015 vintages, which best capture characteristic Hill of Grace signatures of dried sage, Chinese five spice and black pepper notes atop vibrant blackberry, dark plum and juicy cranberry.

Tolpuddle Vineyard

Coal River Valley, Tasmania

Soon after Tolpuddle Vineyard in Tasmania’s Coal River Valley was planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines in 1988, it was commanding respect as one of Australia’s elite cool-climate sites, yet Michael Hill Smith MW and Martin Shaw saw potential to do a whole lot more when they purchased the vineyard in 2011.

‘It has that special something,’ says Hill Smith, who is also one of the five Co-Chairs at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

‘Tolpuddle has very deliberate focus – but we felt it could be significantly better.’

The revitalisation programme saw a dam installed to help manage frost, ripping of the soil between vine rows to alleviate compaction of the silica-rich, stony ground, and new clones introduced within more intensive vine plantings to increase diversity and complexity of grape flavours and textures.

Through this focused attention to detail, Tolpuddle Chardonnay won immediate acclaim, but careful patience has also seen Pinot Noir flourish, as the influence of clonal diversity from new vines across the site has reached maturity.

‘Pinot Noir is capricious,’ says Shaw. ‘It reacts so sensitively to vintage and yield differences that it took time for Tolpuddle Pinot Noir to show site familiarity, but we have now arrived at a very strong place.’

Distinctive, prominent acidity comes as a consequence of the site’s typically very cold, very dry ripening season – an asset that gives these wines sharp flavour definition and extraordinary longevity.

Yangarra High Sands

McLaren Vale, South Australia

When Yangarra winemaker, the late Peter Fraser, identified as a result of the 2010 vintage that the specific terroir of this site – with Grenache bush vines planted in 1946 on a 1.7ha block of deep, ancient sand at Blewett Springs – produced a parcel of exceptional fruit with unusual delicacy and intensity, he boldly argued that it should be vinified separately and promoted as an elite, single-location Grenache expression.

No one else in Australia at that time had considered elevating Grenache to such a lofty pedestal, but Fraser’s astute observation set in place a movement that has rightly brought a league of superb McLaren Vale Grenache to international attention.

Yangarra High Sands remains the standard bearer for elite Australian Grenache, and a 15-vintage retrospective tasting demonstrated that its fragile beauty captures vintage variation with keen subtlety.

‘I always knew this block was very special. I had something that everyone else wanted, so I gave it my very best attention,’ said Fraser at the tasting.

The site provides fruit of exquisite purity, but minimal-intervention winemaking deserves praise for exercising poise and bringing every component into ideal balance – a talent amplified in more recent vintages, especially the magnificent 2024 High Sands Grenache.

It’s easy to be immediately seduced by its waft of wild herbs framed by fresh plum and wild raspberry, but it’s the lean muscle of a complex mid-palate that marries beauty with power, with its fine-boned frame carrying extraordinary persistence of pure flavours.

Alkina Estate Vineyard

Barossa, South Australia

When Chilean soil expert Dr Pedro Parra examined Alkina vineyard in the Barossa’s Greenock subregion, soon after Argentina’s Alejandro Bulgheroni bought the site in 2015, he confirmed its excellent pedigree – but also dug pits that identified a series of different soil outcrops within the 43ha vineyard.

These ‘polygons’ became the source of tiny fruit parcels that have been vinified separately and delicately in concrete vessels, with no oak influence, to accentuate their different character.

Polygon 1 Shiraz – sourced from a mere six rows of 70-year-old vines planted in granite-flecked schist and iron-rich clay over limestone – shows Barossa Shiraz in a dazzling fresh light, slender and nimble, yet supported by subtle, supple tannins and a lick of savoury minerality that guides a long palate line of rare finesse and purity.

Polygon 1 shows but one facet of Alkina’s studied Shiraz and Grenache output, as there are now 20 polygons defined within the vineyard’s Old Quarter – and more new sections are being identified to produce a suite of exemplary ‘polygon’ wines.

‘These are all significant micro-sites, all with significantly different geologies that introduce vastly different characteristics in the wine,’ explains Parra, ‘and it would be a crime if they were not identified individually and celebrated.’

Bastard Hill Vineyard

Yarra Valley, Victoria

Surrounded by dense temperate rainforest in the remote upper reaches of Victoria’s Yarra Valley, the 13ha Bastard Hill vineyard earned its harsh nickname from the workers who toiled in the especially difficult terrain.

Planted in the 1980s by the region’s leading cool-climate viticulturist, Ray Guerin, this was regarded as one of the great Chardonnay sites in Australia, being a source for Eileen Hardy Chardonnay.

The clearing is flanked by towering eucalyptus trees and giant tree ferns, and scales up from 300m to 400m above sea level.

With vines planted on gradients of up to 32%, riding farm machinery here is fraught with danger. Such difficulty and high labour expenses saw previous owner Accolade lose interest in maintaining such a gnarly site to the highest standards.

When Giant Steps Wine, owned by Jackson Family Wines, purchased the vineyard in August 2022, extensive vineyard restoration work commenced.

Winemaker Melanie Chester didn’t expect the neglected Bastard Hill site to respond immediately to viticultural attention and produce fruit of a standard befitting Giant Steps’ esteemed suite of single-vineyard wines.

But an exceptional 2023 Bastard Hill Chardonnay won immediate accolades, and the quality keeps improving.

A key factor is a rare soil type – rich red basalt that points back to the region’s volcanic activity of 500 million years ago – which produces fruit with an exciting concentration of flavours without sacrificing strident natural acidity.

Jim Barry Wines Florita Vineyard

Clare Valley, South Australia

Racy, citrus-driven Clare Riesling is now a globally recognised style, built on the historical success of the famed Florita Vineyard.

Pioneer wine merchant Leo Buring bought land at Watervale in 1946 and called the site Florita (Spanish for ‘little flower’) because he initially planted Palomino and Pedro Ximénez grapes to make fino-style ‘sherry’.

He then planted Riesling vines in 1962 and his winemaker John Vickery created a benchmark style, winning 50 trophies and 400 gold medals over subsequent decades.

Jim Barry Wines purchased the 32ha Florita site from corporate owner Philip Morris in 1986, but although the Barrys immediately began making superior wines with this stellar resource, they couldn’t use the trademarked Florita name for another 18 years.

‘It was maddening that we couldn’t use the name for so long, because we wanted to shout from the rooftops that we had the most famous Riesling vineyard in Australia,’ says retired managing director Peter Barry.

Jim Barry Wines finally issued its own Florita Riesling in 2004. In this wine, the site’s shallow, loamy soils provide a delicate floral beauty coupled with a rich citrus line, firm acidity promoting sharp, clean flavours with unusual length and persistence.

It boasts the unusual dichotomy of being both pretty and fragile, yet resolute and sturdy – factors that amplify with age.

To highlight this, Jim Barry has been issuing a 10-year-old cellar release of Florita, with the recently reissued 2015 showing gorgeous, developed honeysuckle, toasted cashew and lime marmalade characteristics, without sacrificing the primary citrus zestiness that defines Watervale Riesling.

Grosset Polish Hill River Vineyard

Clare Valley, South Australia

The single-minded pursuit of purity in Riesling expression is Jeffrey Grosset’s winemaking obsession, which led him to plant three different Riesling clones (two German and one rare local variety) on an 8ha vineyard in the stony, austere Polish Hill River region of Clare in 1996.

The site’s 500 million-year-old bedrock of blue slate produced a distinctive type of Riesling wrapped in dark, pensive flavour tones and spiky minerality – far removed from the neighbouring Watervale district’s lively lemon-lime characteristics.

Its austere personality reflects the struggle endured by such close-planted vines on tough soils, with each producing just two bottles of wine per vine.

‘I saw such particular attributes in the fruit from each site that I saw no point blending them together. I wanted people to see them side by side, so I just went ahead and bottled the Rieslings from both sub-regions separately,’ says Grosset.

This started a new, serious conversation about Riesling in Australia, which Grosset escalated as he honed more fine-chiselled flavour profiles after adopting organic viticulture principles, then achieving biodynamic certification in 2019.

Pursuit of this painstaking vineyard-care model has seen Grosset applauded as an early adopter of sustainability practices, but he simply points to the finished wine, and its extraordinary cellaring life, as his raison d’etre.

‘Quality over quantity,’ he says with an earnest stare, ‘is always the answer.’

Brokenwood Oakey Creek Vineyard

Hunter Valley, New South Wales

Semillon from the Hunter Valley carries unique characteristics that relate directly to site.

As Australia’s most northerly fine wine location, within a sub-tropical zone but also influenced by coastal breezes, the Hunter has produced Semillon for almost 200 years.

Its modern-day expressions of this grape variety combine seemingly disparate elements of bright, citrus-driven fruitiness with steely acidity that allows flavours to develop over time in bottle.

Semillon has thrived thanks to being planted in exactly the right locations – and Oakey Creek Vineyard, from which Brokenwood has sourced Semillon grapes since the early 1990s, ranks among the best.

In 2021 Brokenwood moved decisively to purchase the vineyard from the Drayton family, who planted it in 1982 on free-draining but fertile alluvial soils located close to the creek.

This vineyard is a primary source for Brokenwood’s elite ILR Reserve Semillon (first produced from the 1992 vintage, and released after six years of bottle age) – yet incredibly Brokenwood had never owned a Semillon vineyard.

‘We had always relied on local growers, so to take control of such an important vineyard gives us an opportunity to improve and invest in the vineyard’s future,’ explains chief winemaker Stuart Hordern.

He believes the importance of this vineyard will be more vigorously promoted, suggesting ILR will be labelled as a single-source wine, in addition to the Oakey Creek Semillon as a current-vintage expression.

‘It’s unmistakable where this wine comes from – and that’s rare.’

Giaconda Estate Vineyard

Beechworth, Victoria

The emergence of Giaconda, with its distinctive mineral-driven personality, proved pivotal in shaping the understanding that the best Australian Chardonnay should be defined by site rather than style.

When winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner left Brown Brothers Wines in 1981, he chose to plant his own vineyard on a tiny outcrop of 450 million-year-old granitic loam over clay and decomposed gravel near Beechworth in northern Victoria’s elevated sub-alpine region.

He had a specific goal – to produce rich but balanced Chardonnay in a powerful Burgundian style – but he needed to locate the right geological site. He found exactly what he wanted.

Chardonnay is planted on a relatively cool south-facing slope at more than 400m, providing a slow ripening period, enhanced flavour complexity and elevated natural acid levels.

It provides Giaconda Chardonnay with a robust frame, yet also unique poise and dignity.

Kinzbrunner remains a staunch advocate for a low-intervention winemaking style – pressing the grapes in a basket press, fermenting the must in oak, using no cultured yeasts, and not fining or filtering before bottling.

He believes this ensures the most accurate and authentic representation of his organically managed vineyard.

This supports a confident wine style that hasn’t changed with fashion, showing its personality with pride.

10 great Australian wines from 10 great Australian sites

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Georgie Hindle, Arthur Coggill and Tom King tasted 147 wines, with 3 Exceptional, 32 Outstanding and 98 Highly recommended.

147 wines tasted

Exceptional 3

Outstanding 32

Highly recommended 98

Recommended 14

Commended 0

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their grand vin Pomerol and St-Emilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé or 1er Grand Cru Classé wines from the 2020 vintage

'There wasn’t a wine I didn’t like,’ remarked Tom King after what proved to be one of Decanter’s most successful panel tastings in recent memory, with an extraordinary 35 wines rated Outstanding or above from 147 tasted – clear evidence of the strength and consistency of the 2020 vintage in St-Emilion and Pomerol.

The two-day blind tasting confirmed the quality across the board. Arthur Coggill summed it up neatly: ‘2020 is a homogeneously good vintage in Bordeaux – these are wines you can go and buy with confidence.’

The judges found no outright failures; ‘We didn’t actually find a bad wine,’ he added.

The growing season in 2020 was defined by an unusually early start, extreme heatwaves and the driest summer since 1959 (until the 2022 vintage).

Merlot, the dominant variety on the Right Bank, ripened beautifully under these conditions, yet the wines showed surprising restraint.

Alcohol levels and oak influence were far more moderate than the judges had feared; there were no overworked wines, instead freshness and balance prevailed. Differences between the appellations stood out clearly.

Pomerol offered greater consistency, especially at the lower end, producing plush and fleshy wines that remained faithful to their charming, fruit-forward signature.

‘Pomerol is just a bit more generous,’ observed Coggill. St-Emilion was more diverse and patchy at the entry level, with ‘more mediocre, but not necessarily bad wines’, Coggill noted – largely a reflection of its greater size and varied terroirs.

Yet at the top end, its wines frequently displayed superior elegance and finesse, outperforming Pomerol in poise and length.

St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé estates performed strongly, as expected, but Pomerol’s broader success across all price tiers was particularly striking.

Ready to go

The drinkability of these wines is a major strength. Many are already highly approachable – ‘happy wines’, as King put it, that will perform well by the glass in restaurants or on the table at home today.

The judges agreed that roughly half the wines felt ready to drink now, while the remainder offer excellent cellaring potential thanks to bright acidity, concentrated fruit and structured tannins.

King highlighted the ‘velvety’ texture of the Pomerols and their surprising accessibility: ‘There was not much in Pomerol at least that I would say has to be kept.’

Prices reflect the fine-wine status of these appellations; very few of the top-scoring bottles sit comfortably under £30, even in bond (before duty and VAT), indeed the very best top £50.

Yet within this category many represent excellent value, offering the immediate pleasure of a great vintage alongside the structure to evolve magnificently over the next 20-30 years.

Overall, the judges described 2020 as a ‘cracking vintage’ of good-to-excellent wines that offer a combination of generosity and restraint.

For drinkers seeking reliable, characterful Right Bank Bordeaux that can be enjoyed young or cellared with confidence, 2020 delivers in spades.

See all the notes and scores from the St-Emilion and Pomerol 2020 tasting here

The judges

St-Emilion & Pomerol 2020 tasting results

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Winemakers are trained to think in grapes and, almost always, only grapes. Most will spend their entire careers relentlessly working within that single medium, fully aware that the craft is both exciting and unforgiving.

‘In wine, you get one harvest a year. Maybe 50 in a lifetime if you’re lucky,’ says Nick Gislason, winemaker at Screaming Eagle in Napa Valley’s Oakville AVA, who has taken on beer as another pillar of his creative outlet.

The built-in limits of winemaking, including the once-a-year window to make decisions in the cellar that will define an entire vintage, don’t exist in the same way in other beverage crafts.

Beer, for example, operates on an ongoing production cycle rather than a single seasonal window, with far more room to adjust and repeat in real time.

‘[Beer] makes you better at fermentation, because we’re working with yeast every single day,’ says Gislason. Even if the grains are harvested seasonally, like grapes, beer doesn’t unfold in a single moment. One batch is fermenting while another is being brewed.

An advantage over wine, he recognises, but one that makes it a complementary craft. ‘You learn how to manage air, temperature and timing in a more dynamic way. That absolutely feeds back into winemaking.’

From grape to grain: Hanabi Lager Co

Gislason created Hanabi, a small lager-focused beer label, around 2015.

For him, beer is not a side project, but another way of thinking through the same questions: how to grow grains for flavour, how to work with fermentation, how far one is willing to push risk in pursuit of something truly high quality.

Hanabi is an absurdly serious label. Unlike most brewers, Gislason is also a farmer, and he applies the same seriousness in viticulture as to grains, farming each variety differently, paying growers regardless of yield, going as far as reintroducing an ancient, almost extinct barley used in the first-ever Pilsners as Hanabi's flagship.

'For us, flavour is number one – even if the grain costs four times more or yields less,’ he says.

The label found its first audience among wine drinkers and sommeliers – The French Laundry and Single Thread, both Michelin-starred restaurants in northern California, were early placements – where Gislason's wine background likely carried weight.

These days, however, most of its consumers (it is distributed in six different states in the US and exported to Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Japan, Taiwan and China, about 25% of its total production) are serious beer drinkers who, as he notes, ‘often have no connection to wine’.

'Beer and wine, to me, are like different instruments. Like in music, you can play to people in a wider way if you use more than just one instrument.'

Reaching a wider audience

Dan Petroski of Massican, in Napa’s St Helena, also went on to play a whole new set of instruments to reach a wider audience.

Over the course of a decade, he explored making vermouth, beer and even gin alongside his wines, building by 2019 what he called 'world Massican': a universe he wanted to open to everybody, 'not just people who love white wine'.

The vermouth came to be almost as an accident, a result of wine barrels that didn't make the final blend: juice with nowhere to go. 'You cover the flaws. You aromatise it, sweeten it, fortify it,' Petroski says. His own version of ‘when life gives you lemons’…

'I then started to build this picture of myself as the guy who knew everything about aromatising alcohol beverages,' he says.

An earnest vision. But Petroski hadn't fully anticipated how separate the concert halls were. Wine, beer and spirits, it turns out, don't share the same road to the consumer.

At the time, managing three distribution networks proved one too many for a producer like Massican. The vermouth program ended in 2022. The beer and the gin did, too.

Since then, the brand has been acquired by Gallo (2023), and the infrastructure roadblock may no longer exist, so Petroski hasn't ruled out a return: 'I love the idea of doing it again,' he says – especially now, as 'the world is drinking slightly differently'.

Vermouth, however, remains very much alive at Matthiasson Wines in Napa Valley, where Steve and Jill Matthiasson have produced their farmhouse-style version since 2011 — now distributed across the US and exported to several countries, with Japan as its largest market.

While the couple had long been fascinated by apéritifs, their vermouth also began with a wine that fermented too far. Instead of discarding it, they transformed it using botanicals, fruit and bitters grown on their property.

In many ways, it feels connected to how they think about farming and wine — just another way of telling the same story.

Whiskey and wine

At Jackson Family Wines, which owns dozens of wineries and operates its own distribution channel, the infrastructure problem doesn't exist.

With Regal, one of California's largest wine distributors – an unusual position in a system designed to keep producers and distributors apart – the company operates on both tiers.

'Having the ability to represent high-quality spirits does serve a commercial or strategic purpose,' says Christopher Jackson of Stonestreet Wines in Healdsburg, Sonoma County, which produces Stonestreet Bourbon within the Jackson Family portfolio. 'I think it's smart to talk to the consumer across multiple different beverage platforms.'

The company released two bourbons in the past two years: Stonestreet, in 2024, which it sees as a more accessible whiskey, and Mt Brave in 2025: a cask-strength, vintage-dated expression made with collectors in mind.

For Mt Brave in Napa’s Mt Veeder, winemaker Chris Carpenter approaches whiskey blending the same way he does his wines.

‘A lot of the blending is layering flavours so none are lost, but they accentuate one another,’ Carpenter says.

‘When I'm matching different wine lots to the barrels, I’m thinking about how that barrel is going to contribute to the expression of wine. I'm thinking about those same things when I'm putting these whiskeys together.’

There's a longer game, by design, being played about how credibility travels in both directions here: a wine drinker who trusts Carpenter's palate has a reason to try the bourbon, while a bourbon drinker who respects the whiskey might feel compelled to try the wines.

Blurring boundaries

Tequila, too, has begun attracting the attention of prominent winemakers.

Bordelais consultant Philippe Melka recently released the first batch of a new tequila project, Felicente, in partnership with Vincent Garry, a veteran in the barrel business, after becoming fascinated by what he describes as a moment in the category that reminded him of California wine in the 1990s: smaller producers experimenting, challenging industrial styles, and trying to redefine quality.

Still in its early stages, the project focuses on organically farmed, high-elevation agave and uses winemaking techniques to produce three styles of tequila, currently distributed across Nevada, Arizona, Georgia, Texas, and California, with plans to expand starting next year.

It’s another sign of how fluid the boundaries between premium beverage categories have become.

Learning curves

But not every beyond-wine project is driven by commercial strategy. In a more modest way, Jamie Kutch added a new line to his Kutch Wines portfolio to address a byproduct problem: wine lees that, if dumped carelessly, could poison rivers and streams.

'It clogs up and kills the fish,' he says. 'This is a sustainable way to use them.'

Kutch distills a brandy from Pinot Noir lees, aged five years in neutral Chardonnay barrels. He makes just 90 bottles a year, sold out each release, including for at least one customer who has never bought his wine.

Winemakers usually don't set out to be anything other than winemakers, and most consumers don't turn to a winery looking for anything other than wine either.

But when something else appears, it often carries the same level of care – sometimes more – than most standalone products across other beverage categories.

Winemaking standards don't end with grapes. And it turns out the exchange goes both ways. 'Every time I'm in a new project, I learn something that I bring back to my primary project,' says Chris Carpenter.

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