The growth in alcohol-free drinking has mostly been driven by 0% versions of alcoholic drinks, such as dealcoholised wine or non-alcoholic beer. But now, a growing number of drinks are being created that have no direct alcoholic equivalent.

Tea is a common base (think kombucha or sparkling teas), but so, too, are shrubs. Also known as switchels, shrubs might seem to be a new phenomenon, but in fact they have a history that goes back centuries.

Shrubs are based on vinegar – usually apple cider vinegar – which sounds like an unpromising starting point for a drink, but actually has several advantages. For starters, drinks without alcohol (or man-made preservatives) eventually go off, but vinegar is a natural preservative. It’s also a very good transporter of flavour, which, again, is a big advantage when there’s no alcohol to do that particular job.

‘Alcohol brings so much to the table – body, mouthfeel and texture,’ says Sam Paget Steavenson at non-alcoholic drinks company Botivo (£27.50/50cl botivodrinks.com, Waitrose). ‘It is also an incredible extractor of flavour and the ultimate preservative. I needed a base that served the same purpose.’

Sustainable serves

Historically, shrubs were made by macerating fruit, sugar, even vegetables in apple cider vinegar to form a concentrated, highly flavoured and very stable syrup solution. They were a way of using up leftover ingredients – the original sustainable adult soft drink – at a time when there was no refrigeration to keep things fresh.

Now, drinks producers are taking the basic shrub premise and playing with it to create all manner of drinks. Botivo uses wild flower honey plus fresh and dried botanicals to create a unique herbal aperitif with serious depth, complexity and balance.

Wine writer Matthew Jukes uses fruit, herbs and vegetables in a slow cold-extraction process to create his Cordialities (£3-£5/250ml can jukescordialities.com), a range of still and sparkling drinks with bright flavours, a savoury mid-palate and bustling acidity. Though they aren’t wine, they’re absolutely doing the same job.

In Suffolk, Henry Chevallier Guild of the Aspall cyder- and vinegar-making dynasty uses just cider vinegar, a concentrate made from bittersweet cider apples and cardamom extract to make a joyfully approachable shrub under the brand name Nonsuch (see ‘One to try’, below). Shake 25ml in a sour with 50ml of apple juice and 25ml of egg white and people don’t even realise it’s alcohol-free, Chevalier Guild says.

‘You know you’ve won people over when they say, “I love that, but I can’t have any more because I’m driving,”’ he says with a laugh.

One to try

Nonsuch Bittersweet Apple & Cardamom Shrub

Intense flavours of honey, citrus and apple compote burst onto the palate in a plush rolling wave. Natural fruit sweetness is balanced by the shiny zip of the vinegar and bright pinpoints of cardamom. Hugely moreish and very concentrated, so if drinking it long, mix it 1:8 with soda. Alcohol 0%

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Lessons in chemistry: Aureus Vita

The so-called Golden Ratio of roughly 1:1.618, is found across the natural world – and has been applied to everything from music to art. But what about drinks?

That was the question asked by chemist-turned-Master Distiller John Hall, who decided to use the ratio at every stage of production for his new gin: from still design to botanical proportions to dilution.

The result is Aureus Vita (Alc 61.8%, £169-£170 per 70cl, Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism), distilled once a year in tune with the harvest of its signature botanicals: juniper and baobab pulp.

Tasted neat in a No-Add Martini (75ml of frozen Aureus Vita stirred over ice for 25 seconds) it’s noticeably textured, with detailed, harmonious aromas of camomile, oatmeal, citrus, pine and liquorice. It also makes a delicious AV & Tonic (one part gin to two parts tonic), with that same luxurious richness of texture and a lingering finish laced with blackcurrant leaf, vanilla and rounded earthy notes.

‘Aureus Vita has been created to challenge. I wanted to give people something they could enjoy, yet push boundaries at the same time. Something new. Something that defies everything you thought that gin could be,’ says Hall. We think he’s succeeded.

Drink Dictionary: Jigger (Noun / JIG-uh)

A small bar tool used for measuring and pouring alcohol, featuring two conjoined cups of different sizes.

What to drink now: Pine Martini (Alcohol Free)

The Fat Duck, Bray, UK 

Perfect for Dry January, this nonalcoholic version of The Fat Duck’s vodka-based Pine Martini delivers plenty of flavour but without the booze.

Sommelier Melania Bellesini says: ‘This is a soft Martini with a twist of pine liquor that reminds me very much of alpine herbs.’ She uses a house-made pine syrup, but Highland Boundary’s Scots Pine Wild Botanical Syrup (£9/250ml Highland Boundary) is a great option if you’re making this at home.

Ingredients: 70ml Everleaf Marine | 15ml Seedlip Spice | 9ml Seedlip Garden | 6ml pine syrup.

Glass: Martini

Garnish: Rosemary sprig

Method: Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing glass, add ice, stir and strain into a chilled Martini glass.

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It’s now a decade since the first alcohol-free spirit launched in the UK. Seedlip went on sale in Selfridges, London on 4 November 2015 – and sold out in three weeks. There was clearly a thirst for drinks with no alcohol…

In the past 10 years this drinks category has blossomed. Not only are there more products, but there’s been huge innovation.

Alongside the drinks – like Seedlip or Tanqueray 0.0 – that mimic existing spirits, there’s been a resurgence of traditional alcohol-free sips; think shrubs, kefir and kombucha. But there are also completely new never-seen-before styles, created just for the zero alcohol market.

Growing movement

And more and more of us are drinking them. Research by the mindful drinking network Club Soda shows that almost half of UK adults have tried alcohol-free drinks.

According to Drinkaware, 87% of UK drinkers are now making changes that can help them cut back, or control, how much they drink. Many people are inspired to cut out booze by initiatives like Sober October and Dry January.

If you’re one of them this year, then you aren’t alone. Research by Alcohol Change UK, estimates that Dry January 2026 could well be the biggest on record, with an estimated 15.5 million of us – that’s 29% of British adults – planning to take part.

Getting started

Where should you start if you haven’t tried alcohol-free drinks before? If you’re a regular drinker, then choosing something that’s a straight substitute for your usual tipple is a safe bet. Fans of a Gin & Tonic could try Sipsmith FreeGlider or if you love an Aperol Spritz try Pavari 17 (see tasting notes below).

If you don’t want to lose the buzz of alcohol, think about trying functional drinks. These Mood-enhancing and wellness products contain adaptogens (which affect the body) and/or nootropics (which affect the mind).

These ingredients, which are regularly found in health food shops, are now being used to create drinks that can naturally lift your mood are a great alternative for people who don’t want the alcohol but still want to be sociable. Brands such as Smiling Wolf (see below) are designed to make drinkers feel more relaxed and uplifted.

Try before you buy

As with trying anything new, being brave and taking that first step – or sip – is crucial. If you don’t want to waste money on a product that you aren’t sure you’ll like, why not try it out at your local bar or restaurant first?

‘We’re seeing a steady increase in guests choosing low- or no-alcohol options, not only during Dry January but as part of a broader lifestyle shift,’ says Enrico Gonzato, bar manager at Kioku Sake Bar in London.

‘We’ve definitely experienced a rise in the consumption of non-alcoholic drinks,’ agrees Angelos Bafas, drinks consultant at Nipperkin bar. ‘I think this is a result of younger generations not consuming as many units as people used to in previous years; however it may also be a reflection on the increased prices of alcoholic beverages in general – perhaps a combination.’

Spoiled for choice

Today every bar, restaurant and pub will offer non-alcoholic options, making it easy to experiment and discover what you like. ‘When I started bartending back in the early 2000s, non-alcoholic drinks were almost never listed on menus,’ says Sebastiano Cristofanon, bar manager at Nightjar in London.

‘Today, the landscape has completely changed. Guests who choose a non-alc option expect the same quality, creativity and sense of occasion as any other drink on the menu. In recent years, non-alcoholic cocktails have become an essential part of every serious bar programme,’ he adds.

Creative cocktails

The same amount of care and creativity needs to be applied to non-alcoholic options as regular cocktails. ‘Alcohol brings texture, weight and length to a drink, so when it is not there you have to rebuild everything from the ground up,’ explains Jack Sotti, bartender at Archive & Myth. ‘We rely on products with real depth of flavour, like The Pathfinder and Opius, and we use ingredients such as koji to bring back that soft richness you normally get from alcohol,’ he adds.

Another challenge is getting flavour to travel. ‘Ethanol naturally carries aroma, so without it you have to work a little harder to keep the drink lively from the first sip to the last. We use layered acidity, different teas, ferments and hydrosols to keep the flavours moving,’ says Sotti.

‘There can often be challenges, particularly around texture and complexity, when creating non-alc drinks,’ adds Adam Montgomerie, general manager at Equal Parts bar. ‘But there are definitely ways around these, including using things like teas, shrubs, verjus, infused syrups, brines and homemade sodas – not to mention the incredible array of non-alc products that are now available.’

Play with flavour

Even if you’re not a trained bartender, you can easily create some interesting no-alc options at home. ‘Non alcoholic drinks at home are a great idea for social gatherings, or celebrations, but also for personal consumption when you want something more exciting than a fizzy drink or soda,’ says Bafas.

‘You’ll find lots of ingredients and items used in everyday cooking around the house which can be used as a great base for a non alcoholic drink, such as vinegar, juices and pickle brines,’ he adds.

‘Start simple and focus on balance,’ advises Gonzato. ‘Fresh citrus for structure, a quality tea or infusion for depth, and a touch of salinity can elevate the entire drink. Think in layers, not in alcohol substitutes. A good garnish also transforms the experience – aroma is essential,’ he advises.

Drinks for everyone

One thing is sure: sober sips are here to stay – and that’s a good thing for anyone who enjoys sharing a drink and good times with friends and family.

‘Not everyone enjoys alcohol, but it’s such a massive part of how we socialise as a culture,’ says Amy McQuarrie, co-owner of Mexican cocktail bar Cinco.

‘The rise of drinks that are sans-alcohol, but have had just as much love and creativity put into the creation as their boozy counterparts, is about inclusivity more than anything.’

The best alcohol-free spirits for Dry January: 10 to try

Bax Botanics Sea Buckthorn

Distilled in Yorkshire using organic, ethically sourced herbs and fruit. Packed with vibrant flavour, the no-sugar Bax range includes uplifting Verbena, laced with fresh, sappy, herbaceous notes. But my favourite is Sea Buckthorn: earthy, fruity, spicy, herbal and tangy, with a lip-smacking bitter finish. Pair with low-cal Lixir Ginger Ale for a refreshing, spicy alternative to a whisky highball. Alc 0%

Botivo

Made from a base of British apple cider vinegar, Botivo is a favourite that can always be found in my drinks cupboard at home. Small-batch, with no flavourings or preservatives, it’s infused with fresh botanicals – rosemary, thyme, gentian, wormwood and orange zest – balanced with wildflower honey, for a bittersweet herbal and citrus drink with plenty of depth and complexity. Mix 25ml with tonic over ice and enjoy. Also look out for the Botivo x Ottolenghi Limited Edition, a collaboration with chef Yotam Ottolenghi, featuring a selection of flavours that define his vibrant Middle Eastern cuisine: think pomegranate molasses, black lime, cardamom and rose. (Alc 0%, £32/50cl, Botivo). Alc 0%

Caleño White Coconut

Calling all rum fans… If you love tropical flavours, try Caleño, which is like a liquid Bounty bar, with nice viscosity on the palate, some coconut water sweetness and tingly spice on the finish. To make a delicious alcohol-free Piña Colada put 50ml Caleño White Coconut, 20ml agave, 80ml pineapple juice, 80ml coconut milk, 15ml lime juice in a shaker. Shake with ice, strain into an ice-filled highball glass and garnish with a slice of fresh pineapple. Or simply mix it with pineapple juice or cola over ice. No need to refrigerate and the open bottle keeps for three months. Alc 0%

Crossip Dandy Smoke

Mixologist Carl Anthony Brown created the Crossip range with bartenders in mind. One for fans of whisky and dark rums, Dandy Smoke is full-flavoured and richly textured. Intensely smoky aromas with dry black spices and a leathery/savoury undertone. The deep, complex, smoky palate is good enough to enjoy neat over ice, or simply paired with coke and a squeeze of lime. But Dandy Smoke is also a really versatile choice for cocktails. Try a delicious Dandy Sour. Put 35ml Crossip Dandy Smoke, 20ml lemon juice, 10ml apple juice, 5ml honey and 20ml aquafaba/egg white in a shaker without ice. Shake to mix, then add ice and shake again. Strain into a chilled Nick & Norah glass. Alc 0%

Everleaf Mountain

The excellent Everleaf range was created by Paul Mathew, a conservation biologist and bartender. As well as sustainably sourcing botanicals for flavour, plants such as acacia and seaweed are used for texture, mimicking the viscosity of alcohol. The range includes seaside-inspired Marine, earthy Forest and pretty pink Mountain, laced with cherry and rose hips. Mix one part Everleaf with three parts tonic to create a pale pink alcohol-free G&T. Or try it in a Violet Mountain Spritz with Artisan Drinks Violet Blossom Tonic. Alc 0%

Lyre’s Amaretti

If, like me, you’re a fan of an Amaretto Sour cocktail, then Lyre’s Amaretti should be in your drinks cupboard. With some tangy spice notes, it’s a well-balanced take on Amaretto, the Italian sweet almond liqueur. Sip it neat over ice or shake 75ml Lyre’s Amaretti with 15ml lemon juice, 5ml sugar syrup, 10ml egg white and three dashes of Angostura Bitters to create a delicious alcohol-free Amaretto Sour. A total treat for the dark days of January. Alc 0%

Pavari 17

A dead ringer for Aperol, with its vibrant orange colour and bittersweet taste, Pavari 17 is made from a base of alcohol-free white wine with an infusion of 17 Mediterranean botanicals including Spanish citrus. Pair it with a no- or low-alcohol sparkling wine to create a thirst-quenching spritz or serve with soda or tonic over ice. Also available in ready-to-drink Pavari Spritz cans. Alc 0.5%

Pentire Adrift

Packed with flavour, the Pentire range – Adrift and Seaward – is made by distilling botanicals found along the Cornish coast, including rock samphire, sea buckthorn, seaweed, woodruff and sage, as well as Cornish sea salt. Seaward has citrus aromas and flavours, noticeably pink grapefruit, which is a key botanical (and makes a great garnish in a No-G&T). Adrift is bursting with coastal freshness, bright and pure herbal notes and earthy spice. Alc 0%

Sipsmith FreeGlider

The dedicated Sipsmith team, creators of the excellent Sipsmith London Dry Gin, experimented with over 100 ingredients and 189 prototypes to create their alcohol-free spirit – and it was worth the effort. Woody, herbal aromas with uplifting freshness, lead to notes of grapefruit citrus, juniper, dry spice and eucalypt with a lingering pine sap note. Well balanced, it makes a super No G&T garnished with a slice of grapefruit. Alc 0.4%

Smiling Wolf Agave

Smiling Wolf’s range of functional drinks aim to mimic the social buzz of alcohol with plant-based nootropics. The spicy Agave expression is made from a base of the same Blue Weber agave that’s used to produce tequila, with the addition of caffeine and theanine (an amino acid found in green and black tea, which raises your levels of seratonin and dopamine). Enjoy it as a tequila substitute in cocktails: shake 50ml Smiling Wolf Agave with 25ml lime juice and 15ml agave syrup for a guilt-free Margarita. Alc 0.5%

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It started as a drop in the ocean. A solitary bottle of no-alcohol spirit appeared on my desk at the drinks magazine I was working on in 2015. It was called Seedlip. I can remember tasting it and saying: ‘It tastes OK – but who’s going to buy it?’

The answer to that question was: everyone. That drop in the ocean became a tidal wave, carried along by demand from drinkers who didn’t know they needed a quality alcohol-free alternative until they were given one.

They were joined by people who simply don’t want to drink alcohol as a lifestyle choice or because of their religious beliefs. And then there were people who needed to cut down or cut out for health reasons.

No booze is booming

Fast-forward two decades and not only is no/low an established drinks category, but it’s growing at an astonishing pace.

You can find no- and low-alcohol products in every supermarket and corner shop. Restaurants, bars and pubs list zero-alcohol options on their drinks lists. There are even dedicated alcohol-free drinking venues.

Research conducted last year by research body Kantar revealed that 22 million adults (45% of us) are attempting to moderate their alcohol intake (Alcovision, data to 30.06.2024). Of those people, 11% say they regularly choose no/low options. That’s double the number from five years ago (Alcovision, data to 31.09.2023).

Going global

This shift is reflected in figures from the No- and Low-Alcohol Strategic Study 2024, carried out by alcohol data analyst IWSR. It looked at drinking habits in 10 key markets: Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, Spain, South Africa, the UK and the US.

According to the IWSR, the total no/low alcohol segment grew by 47% in the UK from 2022 to 2023. Low-alcohol volume sales almost doubled in 2023 and the IWSR predicts further growth over the next few years.

Globally the no/low category had a value of over US$13bn (£10bn) in 2024. That figure is up from US$7.8bn (£6.4bn) in 2018.

This growth looks set to continue as well. The IWSR predicts that no/low volume will increase at a rate of 4% by 2028 in the key markets. Predictions for the UK are slightly ahead of the global figure at 8%.

Spoilt for choice

Clearly there are a lot of no/low drinks around – ranging from beer and cider to wine and spirits. In fact the choice can be overwhelming. So if you’re sober-curious, where should you start?

Well, there are three main types of booze-free drinks to choose from.

First are the bottles that are mimicking or inspired by alcoholic equivalents. This includes big names such as Tanqueray 0.0 and Beefeater 0.0. They’re a reassuring choice for people who usually drink alcohol and like the familiarity of dependable brand names.

Second are the traditional drinks styles that have always been alcohol-free. This category includes kombucha, kefir and shrubs.

Third are drinks that are totally different to anything that’s gone before. No/low is one of the most innovative categories out there. It’s being driven by creators outside the drinks industry, as much as by traditional distillers (for example Ben Branson, creator of Seedlip, was running a design agency when he had his eureka moment).

Time to explore…

As someone who writes about wines and spirits, I’ve been lucky enough to try zero-alcohol drinks in all of these categories. Whether I’m tasting a drink with or without alcohol, I’m always guided by flavour. I ask myself: does this bring my palate joy? Do I want another sip? A glass? A whole bottle? With the drinks I’ve chosen below, the answer is a resounding: Yes! So grab a glass and get stuck into some alcohol-free imbibing this summer.

The best alcohol-free drinks for summer to try

Agua de Madre Lemon & Ginger Kefir Water

£3.80/330ml Abel & Cole

Kefir is a fermented drink made with kefir grains, which are a culture of bacteria and yeast. This makes it probiotic, so as well as tasting great, it’s actually good for your gut! With its subtle lemon and ginger flavours, this has invigorating citrus-and-spice zing, making it a perfect pick-me-up on hot days. Even better, because it’s water-based it’s naturally light and thirst-quenching. Alcohol 0.5%

Bax Botanics Verbena

£16.99-£18.99/50cl Bax Botanics, Click N Drink, Field & Fawcett, Master of Malt

Bax is one of my favourite zero-alcohol drinks. It’s distilled in Yorkshire by Chris and Rose Bax, who use organic, ethically sourced herbs and fruit to create their drinks. Bursting with vibrant flavour, the no-sugar range also includes tangy Sea Buckthorn, but Verbena, with its bright herbal aromatics is a great choice for summer. Fresh and sappy, with grassy herbaceous notes of lemon verbena and sage; deeper hay notes linger on this finish with plenty of citrus freshness. Mix it with Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water (one part Bax, three parts tonic) and sip away.. Alc 0%

Botivo x Ottolenghi Limited Edition

£32/50cl Ottolenghi

Botivo Botanical Aperitivo is another favourite that can always be found in my drinks cupboard at home. This summer the Botivo team has joined forces with chef Yotam Ottolenghi for a delicious seasonal release. Made from a base of apple cider vinegar, the bittersweet aperitif features a selection of flavours that define Ottolenghi’s vibrant Middle Eastern cuisine: think pomegranate molasses, black lime, cardamom and rose. Mix 25ml with soda water or sparkling water over ice. Alc 0%

Drink Dffrnt Sacred Sprig

£48/12x330ml drinkdffrnt.com

South African Kate Attieh created the Dffrnt range of zero-alcohol drinks, using Cape botanicals, whole leaf teas and kombucha that she brews in the Channel Islands. Complex and dry, with flavours that will appeal to wine lovers, these sparklers can be enjoyed with or without food. Made using organic sencha tea and round-leaf buchu (a type of fynbos) Sacred Sprig is zingy and bright, with layers of fresh, leafy, herbal, citrus flavours and notes of elderflower: perfect for summertime. Alc 0%

Everleaf Mountain

£21.50-£23/50cl, Everleaf Drinks, The Great Wine Co, The Whisky Exchange

The excellent Everleaf range was created by Paul Mathew, a conservation biologist and bartender. As well as sustainably sourcing botanicals for flavour, plants such as acacia and seaweed are used for texture, mimicking the viscosity of alcohol. The range includes seaside-inspired Marine, earthy Forest and pretty pink Mountain, laced with cherry and rose hips. Mix one part Everleaf with three parts tonic to create a pale pink alcohol-free G&T. Or try it in a Violet Mountain Spritz with Artisan Drinks Violet Blossom Tonic. Alc 0%

ISH Paloma

£2.89/250ml The Alcohol Free Co, Wise Bartender

This cocktail-in-a-can, from Danish alcohol-free spirits producer ISH, won a gold medal at the World Alcohol Free Awards this year. Made from a base of ISH Mexican Agave Spirit – a great tequila substitute – with pink grapefruit soda, lime and salt, it’s zesty and refreshing, with a kick of peppery spice to mimic the alcohol burn. A perfect portable serve for picnics, parties and festivals. Alc 0%

Myth Coconut

£19.95-£22/50cl Club Soda, The Alcohol Free Drinks Co, Wise Bartender

Myth is a rather nifty rum alternative that’s perfect for creating summer cocktails. Based on sugar cane spirit, it’s very coconutty with hints of vanilla and citrus. Pair it with cola and a wedge of lime over plenty of ice. Or mix up a tropical Piña Colada (use two parts Myth and one part pineapple juice with a little coconut cream) to transport yourself to a Caribbean island… Alc 0%

Seedlip Garden 108

£21.50-£21.95/70cl Amazon, The Bottle Club, The Whisky Exchange

The world’s first zero-abv distilled spirit, Seedlip was inspired by a book of 17th-century herbal remedies. The different botanical expressions should appeal to lovers of spicy, citrus or herbal gins. Clove-laced Spice 94 was the first launch, followed by Garden 108 and lemony Grove 42. Garden, with its notes of thyme, sage and pea pods, gives a fresh, herbal-edged drink with a crisp finish perfect for summer sipping. Alc 0%

Sipsmith FreeGlider

£20/70cl Amazon, Majestic, John Lewis 

The dedicated Sipsmith team, creators of the excellent Sipsmith London Dry Gin, experimented with over 100 ingredients and 189 prototypes to create their alcohol-free spirit – and it was worth the effort. Woody, herbal aromas with uplifting freshness, lead to notes of grapefruit citrus, juniper, dry spice and eucalypt with a lingering pine sap note. Well balanced, it makes a super No G&T garnished with a slice of grapefruit. Alc 0.4%

Sober Spirits R 0.0%

£26.99/50cl, Amazon

Another gold medal winner at this year’s World Alcohol Free Awards, this rum alternative from French producer Sober Spirits is a great choice for Caribbean cocktails without the alcohol. Made from a base of French rum, it’s got the flavour profile of an aged spirit, with caramel, vanilla and tropical pineapple fruit, as well as rhum agricole-style grassiness. Use 50ml to mix up a Sober Margarita with the juice of half a lime, 15ml agave syrup, eight mint leaves and a splash of sparkling water. Alc 0%

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Church leaders were asked to consider allowing alcohol-free wine and gluten-free bread alternatives during the Eucharist ritual.

However, they ruled that using alcohol-free wine would break Church law, as the process of fermentation would be ‘nullified’.

They also decided that wheat alternatives such as rice flour, potato flour or tapioca flour cannot be used to make the bread or wafers taken during the ritual.

The Rt Rev Michael Ipgrave, the Bishop of Lichfield and chairman of the Church’s Liturgical Commission, said the Church was not prepared to overturn two settled positions.

‘First, that bread made with wheat and the fermented juice of the grape are the elements to be consecrated in Holy Communion; and second, that receiving Holy Communion in one kind in a case of necessity is not an “exclusion” but full participation in the sacrament, as often practised in the communion of the sick, or with children,’ he said.

‘Indeed, even believers who cannot physically receive the sacrament are to be assured that they are partakers by faith of the body and blood of Christ, and of the benefits he conveys to us by them.’

Holy Communion is a key sacrament of the Christian faith. Worshipers take bread and wine, which symbolise the body and blood of Christ. The service is a memorial of Jesus’ death and resurrection.

Canon law states that the bread must be made from the ‘best and purest wheat flour that conveniently may be gotten, and the wine the fermented juice of the grape, good and wholesome’.

However, some priests and congregants are unable to consume gluten and alcohol, so they cannot take the bread or wine.

A five-day meeting of the General Synod, the Church’s legislative body, is currently taking place in London. Ahead of the meeting, the Rev Canon Alice Kemp asked Church leaders to ‘enable the legal use of gluten-free and alcohol-free elements at the Eucharist to remove the injustice of this exclusion’.

However, Church leaders reiterated that the bread used in the sacrament must be made from wheat flour, while the wine must be the fermented juice of the grape.

The Legal Advisory Commission of the General Synod ruled that some alcohol can be extracted from the wine. However, it can only be ‘legally used’ if some alcohol remains.

The commission also said that low-gluten wafers can be used, but alternatives made from ‘rice flour, potato flour, tapioca flour, natural gum and water’ will not be permitted.

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It is a sign of the times that central Bordeaux recently gained a shop dedicated to ‘dealcoholised’ wine, and alcohol-free alternatives in general.

While the concept may not be to everyone’s taste, plenty of curious winemakers and consumers have been calling in at Belles Grappes since it opened in 2024.

‘We have all types of visitors,’ said co-owner Anne Kettaneh. ‘Each week, I have wine-growers who come into my shop to ask to try a new dealcoholised wine.’

Producers supplying Belles Grappes, which is located near the city’s St-André cathedral, include those in the wider Bordeaux vineyard region, as well as in Provence, Germany and Austria.

‘I have white, red and rosé, [and] I have some sparkling white and rosé, too,’ said Kettaneh.

Similar shops exist elsewhere in France, and Kettaneh said she has been contacted by people interested in establishing their own businesses in other towns.

Research suggests more consumers are joining the no/low party, at least some of the time. 

In the UK, 38% of adult drinkers told a survey by Yougov and industry body Portman Group they consume no- and low-alcohol alternatives semi-regularly.

Spanish wine producer Familia Torres recently announced it was investing €6m (£5m) in a new non-alcoholic wine cellar.

European Union policymakers are watching, particularly because declines in domestic wine consumption have contributed to surplus stocks. France’s government said recently it would pay more than €100m to ‘grub up’ vineyards.  

The European Commission (EC) approved the terms ‘dealcoholised’ (up to 0.5% abv) and ‘partially dealcoholised’ for wine in 2021, under certain conditions.

Late last year, the EC also established a ‘high-level group’ to analyse challenges faced by the EU wine sector.

In December, this group recommended more action to help winemakers deliver ‘grapevine products more attuned to new consumer demands… especially fully and partially dealcoholised wines, and non-dealcoholised low-alcohol wines, while preserving the integrity of the sector’.

Ignacio Sánchez Recarte, secretary-general of trade body Comité Européen des Entreprises Vins (CEEV), welcomed the high-level group’s proposals. 

He told Decanter that next steps include defining more specific production rules for dealcoholised wines at the EU level. ‘Secondly…we want to complete the puzzle with further harmonised rules for the presentation of these new products.’

In France, Belles Grappes’ Kettaneh said producers were recently allowed to start putting ‘Vin de France Désalcoolisé’ – dealcoholised French wine – on bottle labels.

She said the category could happily live alongside wine, describing it as an opportunity rather than a threat for grape-growers. ‘If you can prove that there is a market, [growers] are fans of innovation.’ 

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On a spectrum ranging from agony to ecstasy, abstinence to excess, Dry January is… fluid, contrary to its title.

The practice – call it a tradition, a resolution, a balm – is a reliable source of cultural lore. Whether you’re going completely dry, damp, or wet, you will find yourself inundated with algorithmically related content: Articles outlining the benefits of abstaining, Instagram ads for non-alcoholic spirits, Twitter (X) jokes denigrating the ‘holier-than-thou’ practice.

The point is that everyone’s talking about it. And we mean everyone.

Not only have we monetised the hell out of the well-intended stint, but it’s become a cultural totem of the calendar year: The butt of the joke, the substance of topical fodder.

And not for nothing: ‘Social norms are a major factor in changing people’s drinking behaviour with increased and reduced drinking,’ explains Dr Kenneth Leonard, PhD, director at the Research Institute on Addictions, University at Buffalo. ‘Dry January provides a social opportunity and social rewards to individuals who drink in less harmful ways… or stop completely.’

In other words, we replace peer pressure to drink with peer pressure to abstain. Influence is king, etcetera, etcetera.

In any case, there’s no flippancy to be had about addiction or substance abuse. And while Dry January can certainly provide a casual (insensitive) platform for impertinent joking about alcohol dependency, it can also spur actual change.

‘Dry January provides a permissive norm for exploring socialising without alcohol,’ says Dr Leonard. According to data he cites from a 2024 report in the National Library of Medicine, the prognosis is optimistic: ‘50% of those who participate continue with reduced drinking afterwards, and 15% abstain,’ he references.

If the goal is to eliminate (or, at least, shapeshift) drinking habits in the long term, it’s not not within reach.

‘We definitely see a spike in sales in Dry January,’ adds Mélanie Masarin, the woman behind the viral alcohol alternative Ghia. ‘A lot of people try Ghia for the first time in January, but 90% of our regular customers identify as alcohol drinkers but are seeking moderation… meaning they keep up the habit after their break.’

Then again, beyond the hedonistic pleasure that comes with drinking something (hopefully delicious) as a meal accompaniment or a social lubricant, alcohol can also act as a balm to pain, stress or anxiety. Addictive behaviour aside, abstaining is hard – especially in the throes of a month that’s so pointedly cold and dark (i.e. grim) for much of the Northern Hemisphere. In 2021, Jimmy Fallon stated on live television: ‘Thank you, news this week, for turning my “Dry January” into “We Tried January”.’

Mind you, that was just eight days into the month – a fairly standard run, as far as dry spells go. ‘For the past 14 years, it’s always the same: For the first two weeks, NO ONE drinks alcohol,’ says Tamy Rofe, who helms beloved Brooklyn restaurant Colonia Verde with her husband. ‘But, starting the third week of January, it’s almost like a collective “f*** it” takes place.’

Moreover, drinking habits are shifting substantially across generations. We’ve seen countless inflammatory headlines about declining wine sales among millennials (Gen X seemingly held its own), and now, Gen Z, the sober-curious generation, is driving that down-trend even further (while redirecting funds into a host of adaptogenic, root-based, magic-dust-infused beverages, not just during January, but year-round). ‘Year-long moderation dampens Dry January participation,’ reads one 2023 Food Business News headline… not even satirically.

At bottom, there’s no real danger for the industry here, financially speaking. Most bars and restaurants offer comprehensive non-alcohol programmes, and blow-out sales in December to leave wiggle room for leaner profits in January. ‘November and December are months of such indulgence and overspending that people need a reset, if you will. And also… “resolutions”,’ says Spenser Payne of Neighborhood Wines – a popular staple shop in Boston.

The upshot? Dry January has calcified into a household term. It’s recognised even by those choosing not to participate, thus encouraging shop owners to carry non-alcohol options and bars to up the ante on their mocktail programmes. Sobriety or not, it’s a month of more mindful, or at least self-aware, drinking for both consumers and purveyors.

Down the line, habitual moderation might just eliminate the whole foundational need for a commitment like Dry January entirely. But, either way, we need not achieve complete abstinence to see the merit in the attempt.

‘Hey team, really unfortunate update,’ begins one TikTok tagged #DryJan. ‘I’m doing Dry January, and I feel amazing.’

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‘Evidence tells us that alcohol is one of the deadliest drugs in the world. Four studies that have already been published and one about to be published have carried out an analysis of the comparative harms of different recreational drugs. All show that alcohol is the most harmful drug. Not because it’s the most harmful to the user, but because it’s the most commonly used drug, so the most harmful in terms of harms to other people.

‘But that doesn’t mean that I don’t enjoy alcohol. I have moderated in recent years, but I very much enjoy drinking wine, at weekends and on special occasions. I even helped my daughter set up a wine bar. I do have memories though of being an undergraduate and witnessing the profound effect that alcohol can have on the brain, making grown men weep and wail. Since then I’ve been fascinated by the effect of alcohol on brain function.

‘Today’s younger generation is far more cautious in its approach to alcohol than my generation. I think there are a number of factors. It’s partly rebellion – not wanting to do things the same way their parents did. Many of them are more mindful of their health, because they’re better educated about it than our generation. The narrative about alcohol has changed in my lifetime. We knew it was harmful, but there wasn’t a great discourse about it. And there was a belief back then that alcohol could bring health benefits. Now most people know there aren’t really any physical benefits. Phones and social media are also behind the shift. Firstly, they are occupied in a different way. But more significantly, they are aware that every indiscretion could potentially be recorded, with damaging consequences.

‘There needs to be a societal shift in attitudes, given that alcohol is one of the major causes of health harms. There’s an obsession with lowering cholesterol – why isn’t there a focus on reducing alcohol intake, in the same way? There’s still a lot of turning a blind eye. Partly I think because alcohol has had a privileged role in society.

‘On an individual level, it’s possible to still enjoy alcohol, but more mindfully. Firstly, know your number: it’s as important as knowing your weight. By that I mean know how much you are drinking, and then try to keep within the recommended level. Secondly, make sure you only drink when you get a benefit from it. Most alcohol is consumed when people are already drunk and are not really feeling the benefits any more. Don’t drink alcohol every day of the week. And when you’re out, consider “zebra drinking”: alternating alcoholic drinks with non-alcoholic alternatives, such as Sentia.

‘Sentia is the result of 40 years of research and five years of product development. We wanted to offer a choice beyond alcohol and alcohol free, aimed at the sober-curious and health-conscious consumer – the mindful drinker who appreciates the benefits of alcohol but doesn’t want the compromises that come with it. We realised it was possible to isolate the mechanism we associate with the desirable effects of alcohol – relaxation, increased sociability, improved mood – from the negative effects. Sales have doubled year on year since we launched the first version three years ago.

‘What we have created here is a botanical spirit made of all-natural plant ingredients that enhance the Gamma-Aminobutyric Acid (GABA) neurotransmitter. GABA is a compound found in nearly all forms of life on earth. It has many functions in the human body, but in the brain acts as a neurotransmitter. It acts as a natural moderator of brain and central nervous system activity, causing feelings of relaxation and calmness. You can’t replicate alcohol, but you can give what most people want from it in terms of sociability and conviviality. It offers that “two drinks sweet spot”.

‘There are three versions: Red, Black and Gold. They each use different natural botanical ingredients that enhance GABA, and each is designed to give a different taste experience. Most people drink it with a mixer, but some drink it neat. I generally use tonic, but you can use any favourite mixer. Red goes well with fruit juices; Black with cola; and Gold with soda water for a Prosecco effect. Next year we’re planning to launch RTD versions, aimed at the Gen Z audience.

‘At the same time, we’ve been working on Alcarelle, a new molecule that we intend to launch as an ingredient to the global drinks industry to use in place of alcohol. We’re getting close in terms of prototypes – we’re evaluating the final series and will be deciding which to take through food safety.

‘At the end of the day, we’re not looking to dominate the market and compete with the drinks industry. We want drinks companies to adopt our science, and to buy Alcarelle to use in their own products.’

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The first point to make is that there is a difference between ‘lower alcohol’ wines (say 9% abv) and non-alcoholic. The former can be created by using ‘normal’ winemaking techniques and playing with things like earlier picking times (so less sugar to turn into alcohol), and ‘lazy’ yeast strains to generate a lower-alcohol end product.

But when it comes to wines below 0.5% abv (the level at which it’s generally accepted that there is no danger of intoxication) then the only way to do that is by de-alcoholisation.

The key concept to removing alcohol from wine is that ethanol has a lower boiling point (78°C) than water. So if you heat up the liquid, there will come a point when the alcohol evaporates off, leaving behind a 0% abv drink.

Before you decide to try this at home in a saucepan, it’s worth pointing out that there are two problems. The first is that wine doesn’t respond too well to being heated up to these kind of temperatures, and secondly, at about the same temperature as you’re boiling off the alcohol you’re probably also removing all of the volatile flavour compounds that give the wine its taste.

So unsurprisingly, the processes used to create alcohol-free wine are somewhat more scientific than that.

‘Reverse osmosis’ – essentially, forcing the wine through a membrane at pressure, is well established in the wine world. It separates the (larger) flavour molecules from the smaller water and alcohol ones, and is cheap to set up.

But this technique is only used to lower alcohol levels by a few percent (say, from 16-14%). To get to levels like 0% or 0.5%, companies use vacuum distillation.

Distillation is basically heating something until it starts to evaporate. And if you do it in a vacuum, it has the huge advantage that boiling points are a lot lower.

Typically, this is around 35-40°C, though some companies now have vacuum distillation columns which operate at below 30°C – not much above room temperature.

Vacuum distillation is a well-established technique, invented by Carl Jung in Germany back in 1907. And though there have been improvements and additions to the system since then (most notably the introduction of Spinning Cone Column technology – a flavour extraction system originally designed for the food industry), the fundamental principle remains the same.

Heating wine under pressure at lower temperatures allows for a precise and relatively gentle way of splitting the drink into three elements: the alcohol, the flavour compounds (some people call them ‘essence’) and water.

These are collected separately. The alcohol is sold off (usually for quite good money!) and the other two elements blended back together.

So, is this de-alcoholised flavour/water mixture ready to drink?

The answer is ‘generally no’. There is one more crucial stage to go through first – and that is ‘rebalancing’.

Alcohol is a big part of a standard bottle of wine. It might only be 13% of the original product, but it transports flavour and – equally crucially – provides mouthfeel.

So removing it changes a drink a lot. Acidity seems sharper, tannin more pronounced and mid-palate somewhat thin. Some flavours get lost, others become more concentrated.

To iron out these problems wineries often add small amounts of flavouring and/or some of the original must (grape juice pre-fermentation). These can put back missing flavour compounds and ‘fatten out’ the palate with a little natural sweetness.

But every winery has a different strategy.

Torres in Spain, selects grapes with de-alcoholisation specifically in mind, so they won’t need any further alteration. An original wine with plenty of fruit, high aromatics and low tannin and acidity is more likely to be naturally balanced post de-alcoholisation.

Giesen in New Zealand has a different approach. The producer uses the same parameters when selecting fruit for its range of alcohol-free wines as for its full-strength bottles. ‘To make a good 0% wine you must start off with a good quality full strength wine,’ says Giesen’s alcohol-free winemaker, Reinier van Greunen.

As to where the industry goes next, there are three areas that are constantly being worked on.

Firstly, new technology is being developed all the time. Anything which allows for a quicker process and a lower temperature with higher flavour capture will improve the quality of the end product.

Secondly, there’s a growing recognition that quality of fruit matters just as much for de-alcoholised wine as it does for its alcoholic cousin. To put it bluntly, if you put bad wine through a vacuum distillation you’ll get a bad alcohol-free wine out the other side.

‘The higher the quality of the wine, the better the result,’ says Irem Eren of de-alcoholisers BevZero.

Finally, work is ongoing as to how to replace the lost mouthfeel provided by alcohol, without simply using sugar.

‘The sweetness of the alcohol does a lot to soften tannins and smooth out acidity,’ says Aaron Milne of Aussie alcohol-free winery Edenvale. ‘It’s a big hole we are trying to fill.’

More and more producers are trying to do it without overt sweetness, too. Wines are by and large getting drier.

‘Structure is by far the biggest challenge,’ says Bérenger Vaysse, CEO of the French alcohol-free producer Inspire, ‘but sugar is not the solution.’

Whoever can find a solution to the Great Mouthfeel Challenge will become very rich very quickly.

Technology has already evolved to the stage where white wines in particular exhibit varietal typicity. In the next five to 10 years, producers are confident that better fruit and better technology mean we’ll start to see regional differences emerge.

But how about terroir – wine’s holy grail?

It may not be on the horizon just yet. But there’s so much research money and brainpower being invested in this area, it’s probably only a matter of time.

Alcohol free: Legal definitions

As reported by Decanter in 2023, the UK government plans to lower the minimum abv on all wine to 0%. Under the current regulations, most wine needs to have an abv of at least 8.5% to be labelled as such in UK retailers and bars. There are some exceptions for wines produced in certain regions, which only need to have a 4.5% abv to be marketed as wine. Anything below that level must be sold as a ‘wine-based drink’. 

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No alcohol doesn’t mean no fun. The n0/low drinking scene has undergone a revolution, with a boom in new products packing serious flavour punch – minus the corresponding abv. With so many of them to choose from – from dark spirit doppelgangers to booze-free bitters – there’s never been a better time for non-alcoholic cocktail making, either.

‘A non-alcoholic cocktail is not a mocktail,’ says Nicolas Medicamento of no/low shop and bar Club Soda in London. ‘A mocktail is basically fruit juices mixed together, and it’s one-dimensional. Cocktails have texture, mouthfeel, complexity, length – a journey. It’s about creating perfect balance, with or without alcohol.’

But for a home bartender new to NoLo, creating that balance can be daunting. no/low components taste different to alcoholic versions, are made in different ways and have different properties. You can’t just make a direct swap – say a non-alcoholic gin for regular gin in a Gimlet – because you’re lacking the ethanol that normally adds both flavour and body. More creativity is needed.

In the mood

Federico Pavan, director of mixology at The Donovan Bar in London – which serves excellent alcohol-free versions of many of its cocktails – suggests starting with the occasion or mood you want to evoke rather than a specific recipe. ‘If you want a feeling of escape, maybe try a tiki cocktail. You can use familiar flavour cues like pineapple, mango and coconut to get your brain making a connection to something like a Piña Colada. If you want an aperitif, think about bitter or dry drink elements that stimulate the appetite.’

Put strict rules to the side in favour of trial, error and flexibility. Be conscious to include acidity, sweetness and sourness but think outside the box in terms of combinations. ‘For example, you don’t need coffee liqueur in an Espresso Martini,’ says Medicamento. ‘You can deliver that sensation with two or three other ingredients. We use non-alcoholic stout to add a chocolate note, often found in coffee.’

Medicamento also suggests adding a little sugar or honey to your drink to help beef up that often-lacking density and mouthfeel. ‘Too many people leave it out in home cocktail-making,’ he says. ‘Don’t shy away from sugar!’

Find your flavour

There are now hundreds of no/low products out there to choose from, made in myriad different ways, from dealcoholisation to fermentation. While you shouldn’t expect the same flavours as in your alcoholic favourites, many come with similar overarching profiles. By finding a star product that echoes the qualities you enjoy in traditional spirits, you can build a portfolio of mixed drinks to suit your palate.

For example – rated both by Pavan and Medicamento – fresh Everleaf Marine might appeal if you like white spirits such as gin or tequila; while Everleaf Forest could suit if you love darker spirits such as rum. Wavelength’s smoky Amber Digestif has a bitter quality that works well in a Negroni, or in other cocktails that normally feature red vermouth. Meads or beers can add flavour or sparkle to drinks, while Nonsuch Shrub can lend acidity.

Finally, consider presentation. Serving temperature is important – normally ethanol gives drinks viscosity, but keeping NoLo products chilled creates a similar sensation. Medicamento suggests keeping bottles in the fridge and using plenty of high-quality ice when mixing. Meanwhile, Pavan insists on finding the right glassware and garnish to create a sense of occasion. ‘Visual impact is very important,’ he says. ‘If you serve Seedlip in a beautiful Martini glass, your imagination will see it as a Martini. Even if the flavour is not exactly the same, you’ve already done half the job.’

Non-alcoholic cocktail recipes to try at home

The Martini:

I Just Called to Say I Love Brew

A non-alcoholic version of the cult classic from no/low shop and bar Club Soda in London. You can buy a Perfect Alcohol-Free Espresso Martini Gift Box containing the ingredients from the Club Soda website, £48.

• Ingredients: 50ml Good Koffee Kakao, 50ml Big Drop Galactic Stout, 50ml Three Spirit Social Elixir
• Glass: Martini
• Garnish: Coffee beans (optional)
• Method: Put all three ingredients into a shaker with a handful of ice. Shake until the outside of the cocktail shaker feels icy cold. Strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with two or three coffee beans.

The Aperitif:

Comfort Zone

A fresh serve from Federico Pavan and Salvatore Calabrese at The Donovan Bar in London.

• Ingredients: 50ml Seedlip Garden, 30ml celery juice, 15ml Mirabelle plum purée, 15ml elderflower cordial, 1g citric acid, 5 drops Ms Better’s Miraculous Foamer Bitters
• Glass: Coupette
• Garnish: None
• Method: Begin by combining the celery juice and citric acid until mixed well. To make the cocktail, put the acidified celery juice and all the remaining ingredients into a shaker with ice. Shake until your hands are cold, then strain into a coupette and serve.

The Sour:

Ringkobing

A 0.5% Amaretto Sour from alcohol-free wine and bar group Tørstigbar, which has a branch in Brighton and during January 2024 is popping up in London’s Hoxton as the Official Bar of Dry January.

• Ingredients: 50ml Lyres Amaretti, juice from ½ lemon, juice from ¼ orange, All the Bitter Orange Bitters, dash of agave syrup, 2 barspoons aquafaba, orange peel
• Glass: Rocks
• Garnish: Maraschino cherry or fresh orange
• Method: Dry shake (without ice) the amaretti, lemon juice, orange juice, bitters, agave syrup and aquafaba in a shaker. Add ice and shake again until cold. Garnish with a maraschino cherry or fresh orange. Spritz the rim of the glass with orange peel and serve.

The Spritz:

Our Farm Spritz

A simple, fruit-forward drink from Andreas Grammatikopoulos at Simon Rogan’s Henrock restaurant near Windermere in the Lake District.

• Ingredients: 100ml homemade rhubarb syrup, 150ml soda water or sparkling water
• Glass: Highball
• Garnish: Rhubarb sliver, fresh dill
• Method: To make the rhubarb syrup: put 500ml water and 500g caster sugar in a pan and dissolve over a low heat. Add 1.1kg of fresh rhubarb cut into 1-2cm chunks and 120g dill. Gently simmer with the lid on the pan until the rhubarb softens. Allow to cool and then place in the fridge to chill. Once cooled, strain the syrup mix through a coffee filter, add 7.5g citric acid and stir to gently combine.
  To make the cocktail: add ice to a tall glass. Pour 100ml of the rhubarb syrup and around 100ml soda water over the ice and stir to combine. Garnish with a sliver of rhubarb and a sprig of fresh dill.

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There are many reasons why you might be planning for alcohol-free or alcohol-limited celebrations and an increasing number of consumers are indeed decreasing their alcohol consumption as part of wider wellness and lifestyle trends. The ‘sober curious’ are driving the increasing demand for the no/low category, leading some of the UK’s foremost retailers – such as Waitrose and The Wine Society – to ramp up their offering in both quality and diversity.

But do the available alternatives stand up to their boozy counterparts? Can they underscore merriment and conviviality in the same way? There’s a growing number of appealing alternatives that deliver in both drinking pleasure and food pairing possibilities.

Beer – low in alcohol but not in flavour

Low-alcohol beers have been around for centuries, having played a key role in the diet (and survival) of many western countries since times immemorial. When clean drinking water was unavailable, low alcohol beer provided a safe, storable alternative; the management of fermentation to arrive at a moderate alcohol level has long been mastered. It didn’t take much, therefore, for brewers to put the latest technologies (such as cryogenic fermentation) at their service to arrive at even lower levels without – unlike alcohol-free wine; more on this below – significant loss of flavour or body. It’s easy to find superb alternatives – of which the below are just two examples among many – that comfortably measure up against boozy brews.

Spirited away

One of the flashiest and most diverse sub-categories in the no/low scene is alcohol-free spirits. Technically not all these drinks are spirits to which alcohol has been removed; many are herb & spice mixes and elixirs that never started as an alcoholic product. Relying on the same botanicals and spices that shape the profile of the alcoholic products they stand in for, these concoctions are worth exploring.

The absence of alcohol might make it a bit challenging to enjoy no/low spirits neat as they could feel a bit thin and lacking in depth. But as the alternative components in mocktail recipes they can provide the basis for delicious, warming and very festive drinks. Outstanding branding and packaging add to the sophistication and respectability with which these products have claimed their corner in bar shelves across the world.

Dealcoholised wine?

Perhaps the least exciting of the no/low subcategories is dealcoholised wine – especially if you’re looking for a drink with gastronomic appeal. The challenges of producing a complex and balanced alcohol-free wine are many. The dealcoholisation process removes important flavour and structural components (aroma compounds, tannins etc) along with the alcohol. And the latter is itself a good bonding agent, vehicle and preservative for such components, meaning that, in its absence, they are not likely to remain or be as expressive in the final product. Producers are investing in new and better technology but alcohol-free wines still pale in comparison with the base product.

If you’re staying away from alcohol as a part of a general effort to build a healthier lifestyle, you should also consider that alcohol-free wines and spirits are significantly processed products to which artificial sugars (and other additives) are often added. So perhaps you are better off enjoying the health benefits of moderate drinking? Something to consider ahead of your New Year resolutions.

Alternative ferments

It’s also worth exploring the no/low alternatives that do not rely on dealcoholisation and/or emulation of an obvious alcoholic twin. Where before there was not much more than juices and kombucha, you’ll now find complex and flavourful creations, favoured by sommeliers in virgin pairing flights.

Among them are sparkling teas, often – but not necessarily – made bubbly through fermentation with kombucha cultures. While tasting for this piece these truly stood out for their structural and flavour complexity. Not least as they are the only non-alcoholic alternatives offering something that will appeal to wine lovers: natural tannins.

So dive in and explore; there are plenty of ways to enjoy an alcohol-free Christmas without boredom or disappointment. The key is to think differently, not trying to find the alcohol experience where it cannot be.

Eight alternatives for alcohol-free festivities:

Saicho Hojicha

Cold-brewed sparkling tea – 0% abv

The brainchild of husband-and-wife and fellow Food Science doctorates Charlie and Natalie, Saicho is a superb collection of cold-brewed sparkling teas. The project was catalysed by the couple’s love for food and fine dining and Natalie’s severe intolerance to alcohol. The pair embarked on a research project to find suitable non-alcoholic pairing alternatives.

The three labels in the range are all balanced, nuanced and sophisticated, underpinned by the quality and natural complexity of the teas used. I was particularly taken by the refined tannic structure and delicious umami character of the Green Sencha tea-based Hojicha. Complex and persistent, it is the perfect pairing for festive seafood spreads.

£15.75 (75cl) from The Whisky Exchange

L.A. Brewery Sparkling English Rose

Sparkling tea-based kombucha – 0% abv

One for lovers of aromatic, fruit-driven white wine, this Kombucha-fermented blend of black and green eea is infused with organic rose petals for a fragrant and delicate nose. Aromas of rose, jasmine and apple blossom mingle with zesty lemon and lime, ripe Asian pear and melon. A hint of elderflower and gooseberry gives it a Sauvignon Blanc-like edge. Pair with poultry, smoked salmon or quiche Lorraine.

£10 (75cl) from L.A. Brewery and Ocado

REAL Royal Flush

Fermented sparkling tea – 0% abv

Another sparkling tea of note, equally enjoyable on its own, as an aperitif, or alongside grilled fish, smoked mackerel, charcuterie & cheese platters or tapas. Lovely nose, bursting with ripe stone fruits, red apple fruits and crunchy blackcurrants. The first flush Darjeeling used as a base adds umami and smoky nuances. The palate is refreshing, with rhubarby sourness, fleshy peach and pink grapefruit zestiness.

£9 from Waitrose

Small Beer Dark Lager

Beer – 1% abv

From its small brewery in Bermondsey – the London epicentre of all things cool in craft beer, cheese, wine, coffee and beyond – Small Beer brewery produces one of the most interesting ranges of low-alcohol beers in the market. Having researched traditional brewing techniques and created a bespoke brewing kit, the company seems to have nailed it, delivering in flavour, complexity and typicity. Velvety, toasty and malty, this is a proper dark lager that reflects the quality of the brewery’s wider range. Perfect pairing for turkey, roast beef and shepherd’s pie. Yum.

£3.25 (35cl) from The Wine Society

Lucky Saint Unfiltered Lager

Beer – 0.5% abv

Founded only a few years ago by Luke Boase, Lucky Saint quickly became one of the alcohol-free beers of choice among UK’s sommeliers and pub owners. The Bavaria-inspired unfiltered lager has a lovely weight and balance. It delivers what any lager would: biscuity deliciousness, orchard fruit crunch and ripe citrus zestiness. It’s a lovely beer, regardless of any alcohol level considerations.

£18 (12 x 33cl) from Majestic

Torres Natureo Rosé

Dealcoholised wine – 0% abv

The most accomplished of all the dealcoholised wines tasted for this piece, Torres’ Natureo Rosé preserves an interesting crispness and food-friendly crunch. Refreshing and lifted, with juicy softness. Aromas of cranberry and rhubarb dominate, with a streak of pink grapefruit underneath. Soft and fruit-forward but with a lovely tail of coriander. Will not disappoint fans of fruit-forward, soft rosés. A great aperitif that will also pair well with canapés, tapas or fresh seafood.

£6 (75cl) from Tesco

Three Spirit Nightcap

Botanical and herbal elixir – 0% abv

A smart, spicy concoction with a very wintery and festive soul. The warming combination of sweet and savoury spices lifts, with fiery vibrancy, a luscious core of maple syrup and chestnut honey. Smoky nuances of tobacco, cedar and sandalwood add depth. Very enjoyable on the rocks, as a digestif, mixed with tonic or ginger ale for a flavourful aperitif, or as a stand-in for whisky and cognac in cocktail recipes.

£25 (50cl) from The Wine Society

Sipsmith FreeGlider

Dealcoholised gin – 0.5% abv

Sipsmith is one of the leading brands in the alcohol-free spirits category, and this FreeGlider helps to understand its success. The beautiful, evocative packaging allows it to sit proudly on any bar display, for a sophisticated mocktail experience. Very classical gin nose, with juniper, lemon balm and white grapefruit zest. The palate, while lacking the vividness and energy of an alcohol-full gin, has all the flavour needed to use it as an alternative in a classic G&T.

£17 from Majestic

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Under the current regulations, most wine needs to have an abv of at least 8.5% to be labelled as such in UK retailers and bars.

There are some exceptions for wines produced in certain regions, which only need to have a 4.5% abv to be marketed as wine.

Anything below that level must be sold as a ‘wine-based drink’, which has led to confusion among consumers.

Those naming rules – which were inherited from the EU – do not apply to other drinks categories. For example, 0% abv and 0.5% abv drinks can be marketed as beer or cider.

Following a public consultation, the UK government now plans to lower the minimum abv on all wine to 0%. That will allow alcohol-free options to be marketed as wine for the first time.

The government said that Brexit presents a ‘unique opportunity’ to review ‘overly complex’ EU-era regulations governing the wine trade.

The Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA), an industry group, has offered to work with the government on new labelling rules to ensure drinkers are fully informed.

It is part of a wider set of reforms laid out by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) following a public consultation. The reforms will come into effect next year.

The UK government will also scrap the requirement for imported wines to display an importer address on the label. That removes a great deal of red tape for the industry, so the news was celebrated by importers and retailers alike.

The overhaul will also end the mandatory use of mushroom-shaped stopper and foil sheaths on sparkling wine bottles, a move designed to reduce ‘unnecessary waste and packaging costs for businesses’.

Rules governing bottle shapes have also been axed, while a ban on the blending of imported wines will be scrapped too.

Meanwhile, producers will be permitted to use designations of origin (PDO) for wines produced using hybrid grape varieties.

‘This will increase their resilience in the face of climate change and disease and provide greater choice for consumers,’ said Defra.

WSTA chief executive Miles Beale said: ‘Removing the restrictive rules on importer labelling will significantly reduce the post-Brexit impact of having to have a unique UK label.’

He added that having one common label for both UK and EU markets will ‘maintain the UK as an attractive destination market and support our aim for UK consumers to continue to have access to the widest possible choice of wine from around the world’.

‘At a time when businesses are doing all they can to minimise packaging waste, changes to packaging rules will be good for business, the environment and consumers,’ said Beale.

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What to drink now… White Russian

Belgian bartender Gustave Tops invented both the White Russian and its sister cocktail, the Black Russian, at the Hotel Metropole in Brussels, in 1949. The ‘Russian’ moniker refers to the vodka used in both drinks, along with coffee liqueur and in the case of the White Russian, milk or cream.

The White Russian saw a huge surge in popularity with the release of cult film The Big Lebowski in 1998. The Dude, played by Jeff Bridges, drinks White Russians constantly through the film; if you want to follow in his footsteps try Black Cow Vodka (Alc 40%, £23.99-£25/70cl), a creamy vodka made from milk, with notes of vanilla, coconut and liquorice root.

White Russian

Ingredients: 60ml vodka, 30ml coffee liqueur, 30ml single cream

Glass: Rocks

Garnish: Freshly grated nutmeg

Method: Pour the vodka and coffee liqueur into a mixing glass with ice and stir gently to mix, until the outside of the glass is very cold. Strain into a rocks glass filled with ice and float the cream over the top. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg to garnish.

Low-alcohol gin

Two new low-alcohol gins are proving that small is beautiful, with products that are little in size but big on taste. Smidgin, launched by Suffolk-based distillery Adnams, is distilled with 10 times the amount of botanicals used in a regular bottle of gin. This means that you only need 2.5ml (half a teaspoon) mixed with 200ml of tonic to create a full-flavoured G&T with just 0.6% alcohol.

Offering up warm spiciness and creamy florality, botanicals include coriander seed, cardamom pods, orris root and hibiscus, alongside plenty of classic juniper character. Inginious from Sloemotion Distillery in North Yorkshire, is made in the same way, but with more citrus botanicals, including lemongrass, grapefruit and lime. A 5ml serve with 150ml of tonic gives a G&T with only 0.2 units of alcohol.

The newcomers follow in the innovative footsteps of Hayman’s Small Gin (Alc 43%, £22.95/20ml Amazon UK), which was launched in 2019.

Smidgin – Alc 50%, £26/20cl adnams.co.uk

Inginious – Alc 43%, £26/20cl inginious-gin.co.uk

How to… make sugar syrup

Many cocktail recipes call for sugar syrup as an ingredient.

You can buy this: try Monin Gomme Syrup. But it’s also easy to make at home: dissolve one cup of caster sugar in one cup of water over a very low heat – do not let it boil. Leave to cool, then pour it into a sterilised bottle.

It will keep in the fridge for up to a month. This is known as 1:1 sugar syrup and is more commonly used in American bars. European bartenders prefer a richer 2:1 syrup. Follow the same initial steps above, and when all of the sugar has dissolved, gradually add a second cup of sugar, stirring until it is all dissolved.

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There’s increasing interest in and demand for low- and no-alcohol beverages that might offer a good alternative to wine, beer and spirits in times of moderation. The category still causes confusion though, with consumers puzzled by the terms used and the processes involved in the production of alcohol-free products.

When it comes to alcohol-free wine the fundamental question is whether it is even wine at all. Ask Decanter answers below.

It all starts as wine

Alcohol-free wine starts its life as a regular wine.

Grapes are harvested, pressed, juice is separated from the skins (if applicable – note that red and orange wines are fermented on the skins), and fermented. During the fermentation process the sugar is transformed into alcohol, aroma and flavour compounds are integrated, and tannins and colour are extracted. The beautiful alchemy of all these elements combined is what we call wine.

An alcohol-free wine is produced through the removal of alcohol from a base wine which results, as described above, from the alcoholic fermentation of grape juice. It should not be confused with other alcohol-free beverages, notably fresh (i.e. unfermented) grape juice, whose production does not actually involve the production of wine at any point.

From a legal point of view ‘alcohol-free wine’ is not defined as a category or product in itself. Confused? You are not alone.

The term “wine” can only be used on products resulting from the alcoholic fermentation of grape juice, with an alcohol content of 8% abv or more (except for specific PDO, Protected Designation of Origin, where the minimum is below 8% abv).

Low and non-alcoholic products may be referred to as a “wine based drink”, used alongside one of the descriptors:

• Alcohol-free – can only be used to label a drink from which alcohol has been extracted and contains no more than 0.05% abv
• De-alcoholised – term used to label a drink from which alcohol has been extracted and contains no more than 0.5% abv
• Low-alcohol – the drink must be 1.2% abv or below and the label needs to indicate clearly the maximum abv.

Note that non-alcoholic cannot be used in conjunction with a name commonly associated with an alcoholic drink, in this case wine. (There is an exception, however, for non-alcoholic ‘wine’ derived from unfermented grape juice used solely for sacramental uses.)

Removing alcohol from the base wine

After the wine has been produced, following all the usual vinification steps – including, in some cases, ageing – alcohol needs to be removed.

There are three main processes through which this is commonly made:

• Vacuum distillation – High temperatures can severely damage flavour and aroma compounds. With vacuum distillation (distillation conducted within a vacuum chamber), the heat needed to remove the alcohol is considerably lower, therefore causing less damage to flavour and aroma. Still, most of the more delicate aroma compounds do volatilise along with the evaporating alcohol. Most alcohol-free wines made through this process notably lack the more subtle, floral aromas.
• Reverse osmosis – This is in fact a combined process of filtration followed by distillation. First, the aroma compounds and phenolics are filtered effectively creating a wine concentrate. The alcohol is then distilled from the liquid. Finally, the water (i.e. the liquid from which alcohol was removed) is added back to the wine concentrate. This is a laborious process and it can take up to four passes for all the alcohol to be removed.
• Spinning cone – the basis of this technology is breaking the wine’s multiple components apart and then reassembling them without the alcohol. Again, quite a complex process that needs to be handled carefully and involves different, consecutive steps. Repeated evaporation and condensation cycles at low temperatures using inverted cones and centrifugal forces separate the constituent elements in iterative steps. They are then blended together again (without the alcohol) in a process very much akin to making a wine’s final blend, to retrieve the balance of sugar, acidity, weight, texture and flavour.

For balance to be achieved, some elements are sometimes added after dealcoholisation, in an attempt to compensate for the loss of aroma, flavour and texture. Sugar (usually concentrated grape must), botanicals and tannins (either synthetic or from, for example, tea leaves) are among the most common.

But why is it so expensive?

Alcohol-free wine is not categorised as an alcoholic beverage and therefore not subject to alcohol duty.

On the other hand, the equipment and technology used to remove alcohol from wine are complex and expensive. The economy of scale is not there either, at least yet. While a winemaker might produce thousands of bottles of a given wine, only a small percentage will be used to produce an alcohol-free version, which will then be packaged and marketed separately.

The additional costs of the dealcoholisation process, logistics and dedicated marketing significantly surpass the alcohol duty. So you can easily expect to spend more, rather than less, for a low or no-alcohol wine.

Passing the taste test

One of the main issues raised by consumers has been that alcohol-free wine simply doesn’t pass the taste test.

This is not because it is, necessarily, a lesser quality product. But the fact is the processes through which alcohol is removed also extract aroma, flavour and textural components, thereby affecting the complexity and depth of our final, alcohol-free drink. Even distillation at a very low temperature will cause the subtler, most volatile aromas to be extracted along with alcohol. The initial filtration process in reverse osmosis, on the other hand, removes tannins and other bigger phenolic molecules which are key elements

This is undoubtedly one of the biggest challenges for the production and market-placement of dealcoholised wine. Existent technology, albeit much more advanced than a few years ago, still doesn’t allow the production of a drink that is as complex and deep, but simply free of alcohol.

Moreover, alcohol plays a key role in how we experience all the other components in wine. As it evaporates in the glass it acts as a vehicle for aromas. It also adds body and texture, while giving structural support to other textural elements, such as phenolic compounds.

Producing a good alcohol-free ‘wine based drink’ is not an easy task and certainly comes at a cost for both producers and consumers.

You can read the complete legal guidelines on low-alcohol descriptors on the UK Government’s website. 

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Rising trend: Low alcohol and alcohol free wine

According to the latest drinking trends, more and more of us are choosing to go without alcohol or at least cutting down our intake. The third annual YouGov survey looking at low- and no-alcohol alternatives, commissioned by the Portman Group, found that two-thirds (62.5%) of all UK adults had at least tried a no- or low-alcohol product.

Meanwhile figures from IWSR Drinks Market Analysis indicate that sales in the so-called NoLo category are expected to grow by 17% in the UK this year, with a value of £558m. Last year the NoLo category gained a 3% share of the total beverage alcohol market, and total volume is forecast to grow by +31% by 2024, according to IWSR’s No- and Low-Alcohol Strategic Study 2021.

This increase was no doubt fuelled by the launch of some big-brand no-alcohol alternatives this year, including Tanqueray Alcohol Free. However smaller brands are also seeing exponential growth. Pentire, which produces a range of two alcohol-free botanical spirits – Adrift and Seaward – reported a 200% increase in year-on-year sales to 13 December, with consistent growth month-on-month.

For drinks lovers, these figures translate into an exciting array of new products to try. Arguably low- and no-alcohol is the most exciting category at the moment, and it’s certainly the one where most innovation is happening.

If you’re keen to explore further, Pourwell is an alcohol-free subscription cocktail club. Subscribe to receive a box that contains: a full-size bottle of alcohol-free spirit, mixers, garnishes, sweet and savoury snacks, a NoLo taster and a recipe card – enough to let you make six cocktails. Boxes cost £34.99 and can be ordered monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly.

Meanwhile to get you started, here are a few of my favourite bottles from recent tastings, with flavours that I think will work best over the festive season – from oranges and Christmas spices to fresh pine and smoky, woody notes. Enjoy!

Best alcohol-free spirits for Christmas

Æcorn Aromatic

Æcorn is a range of herbal aperitifs based on grapes – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier – infused with botanicals including oak, hence the name. Aromatic is a good choice for cold winter nights, thanks to its spicy berry aromas – like mulled wine. Try it over ice with soda, to open up smoky bitter woodland notes, like a winter bonfire, with dark spices and a burnt caramel edge, plus vanilla and orange citrus. Or make a warm Mulled Cup: mix 300ml Æcorn Aromatic, 210ml apple juice and 90 ml cinnamon syrup in a pan and heat gently. Alcohol 0%

BUY: £19.99/50cl, Amazon

Bax Botanics Sea Buckthorn

Distilled in Yorkshire by Chris and Rose Bax, who use organic, ethically sourced herbs and fruit to create their drinks. Packed with vibrant flavour, the no-sugar Bax range includes uplifting Verbena, laced with fresh, sappy, herbaceous notes. But my favourite is Sea Buckthorn: earthy, fruity, spicy, herbal and tangy, with a lip-smacking bitter finish. Pair with low-cal Lixir Ginger Ale for a refreshing, spicy alternative to a whisky highball this Christmas. Alc 0%

BUY: £18.99/50cl, Amazon

Everleaf Forest

The excellent Everleaf range was created by Paul Mathew, a conservation biologist and bartender. Sustainable botanicals include plants such as acacia and seaweed, used to mimick the viscosity of alcohol. The range includes seaside-inspired Marine and cherry-laced Mountain. But I love the rich earthiness and spice of Forest, with aromas like tramping through a wood after the rain. There’s also a touch of smokiness that continues on the complex, mellow and textured palate. Vanilla, woodsmoke, earthy spice, orange citrus, candied peel and a hint of saffron. Mix one part Everleaf with three parts tonic or ginger ale over ice for a mellow festive sipper. Alc 0%

BUY: £18/50cl, Amazon

New London Light Midnight Sun

From Devon’s Salcombe Distilling Co, the low-calorie NLL range has recently been expanded to include new flavours Aegean Sky and Midnight Sun, the latter inspired by flavours from the Nordic coast. Botanicals include kelp, samphire, sea buckthorn, lingonberries and pine, conjuring up evocative flavours and aromas that make me think of foraging on a fresh coastal walk. There’s berry sweetness, with a hint of tartness, plus pine resin and a some breezy salinity. Pair one part Midnight Sun with three parts tonic over ice in a highball glass and garnish with raspberries and cranberries for an eye-catching Christmas serve. Alc 0%

BUY: £27.50/70cl, Amazon

Tuscan Tree

With its bright orange colour, reminiscent of Aperol, Tuscan Tree falls neatly into the Italian aperitivo category. Created by the team behind Kvîst alcohol-free spirit, this good value option is made with botanicals including cardamon, cinnamon bark, orange peel and pimento, then infused with Tuscan blood oranges, creating a bittersweet character. Ripe orange fruit is balanced by notes of dry Middle Eastern spices and black tea. Serve it spritz-style in a balloon glass, with Fentiman’s tonic, plenty of ice and slices of fresh orange. Alc 0%

BUY: £10.99/70cl, Amazon

Wilfred’s Non-Alcoholic Aperitif

Chris Wilfred Hughes took inspiration from familiar ingredients – fresh rosemary from his mother’s garden and bitter oranges in his father’s homemade marmalade – to create this zero abv aperitif. You’ll also find notes of tangy rhubarb and plenty of Christmassy clove spice. Pair it with The Artisan Drinks Co’s Pink Citrus Tonic (one part Wilfred’s, two parts tonic) over ice for a refreshing festive spritz. Alc 0% 

BUY: £19.50/50cl, Amazon

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Low-alcohol and alcohol-free wine

No one should drink more than the equivalent of a small glass of wine per day, but everybody needs more than one alcohol-free day per week, according to the first full review of official alcohol guidelines in England and Wales for 20 years.

New UK alcohol guidelines

England’s chief medical officer, Dame Sally Davies, has effectively rubbished studies on the potential health benefits of drinking red wine, following new government guidance that there is no safe level of drinking.

Risks outweigh any potential gain, according to the first full review of alcohol guidelines for England, Wales and Northern Ireland since 1995. Scotland also set the same limit.

On the assumption that most people will not go tee-total, the review also cut its guidance on the maximum amount people should drink in a week, to 14 units. This should be spaced out, it says.

A 175ml glass of wine at 13% abv is 2.3 units, according to the Drinkaware charity.

• GRAPHIC: Drinking limits around the world

It is the first time the drinking limit has been set at the same level for both men and women. Men previously had a limit of three to four units per day, and women two to three units.

Government advice also says that everyone should have some alcohol-free days per week.

Dame Sally Davies said the link between drinking and certain cancers was now better understood than in the 1990s. Those drinking no more than 14 units in a week have a low chance of alcohol-related disease, she said.

• READ: Is dry January beneficial?

The drinks industry’s self-regulatory body, The Portman Group, criticised the new advice.

‘What is surprising is that the UK is breaking with established international precedent by recommending the same guidelines for men and women,’ said the industry-funded group’s chief executive, Henry Ashworth.

‘It also means that UK men are now being advised to drink significantly less than their European counterparts.’

Ashworth said guidelines were important for consumers to make informed choices, but said, ‘More than four in five adults drink within the current lower risk guidelines.’

In an article published in the February issue of Decanter magazine, Dr Michael Apstein – a gastroenterologist and wine writer – argues that the effects of alcohol on the body vary depending on the individual and the context.

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January draws to a close. For a few of my friends, that means the end of an abstemious, alcohol-free month.

Others will chose to wait until Lent begins on February 22nd to hang up the corkscrew (or leave the screwcaps intact). Some try to have an alcohol-free day or two every week; my own strategy tends to mean leaving abstention to fate, but to welcome it when it happens. Any habit is best repudiated once in a while, if for nothing else than the view it gives of a changed world. I’m sure that time spent away from wine, too, can sharpen one’s tasting abilities on return.

You might, of course, regard any kind of restraint as wimpish and contemptible. “Un repas sans vin est un jour sans soleil” (‘a meal without wine is a day without sunshine’), Louis Pasteur is reputed to have said, and some wine lovers enthusiastically agree. Medical opinion, moreover, can usually be found to back up almost any personal alcohol strategy other than that of unmitigated excess.

Individual practice is one thing; debate and lobbying another. When those involved in wine production, sales or promotion discuss restraint or abstention, an element of self-defensiveness seems to sharpen the tone. This is particular evident when the restraint is being urged by governments on citizens for their own benefit (as with the current debate regarding minimum alcohol pricing in the UK).

I’ve spent my working life writing about (and thus in some sense promoting) fine alcoholic drinks including wine, and I’m in no doubt of their beauty, intrigue, cultural depth and civilising qualities. I’ve often witnessed and experienced the beneficial effects of moderate alcohol consumption in lifting the spirits and bringing people closer to one another. A little wine brings spiritual music to secular life. Without alcohol, wine wouldn’t do that. Without alcohol, wine does not exist.

Drunkenness and alcohol dependence, though, are pure horror, both to experience and to witness. I’ll never forget the boiling rage of someone’s aunt, banging the table next to me at a friend’s wedding because the serving staff were slow in uncorking the bottle she was clutching, nor the sense I had of peering into an abyss as I imagined the life she and her mortified husband lived out together. One of the reasons I relish no longer living in the UK is that it’s rare, closer to the Mediterranean, to observe roaringly drunk males sow discord in public places, though you don’t need to be particularly observant to see (and smell) the less ostentatious forms of drunkenness here. Set against these excesses, the calm and serenity of abstention is indeed beautiful.

It’s admirable to drink moderately, and to celebrate and propagate the richness which wine’s long culture has brought to human existence — but it’s admirable not to drink, too. Beneficial moderation, after all, is defined by intermittent abstention. Dionysus, as Euripides wrote in the Bacchae, is most gentle yet also most terrible to mankind. It’s in our greater interest to maximise the gentleness, and minimise the terrible episodes.

When those in power try to bring this about, it seems to me that they deserve the support of moderate drinkers. (This, of course, is not an argument for prohibition: we would then miss out on the beneficial gentleness.) Those whose livelihoods are articulated around alcoholic drinks should also take a long view.

Between the adoption of the Loi Évin in France in December 1990 and 2008, alcohol consumption fell by 20% — yet those producing France’s good wines and its fine wines prosper today as never before. Governments don’t always get it wrong. Minimum alcohol pricing in the discount-addicted UK would principally target the cheapest and most alcoholically corrosive drinks: those favoured, in other words, by those in thrall to the terrible Dionysus rather than the gentle one. It’s a sound policy.

Written by Andrew Jefford