‘Everyday drinking’ is an important concept, but what, exactly, do we mean?

A topic such as this should write itself, yet I found the subject slippery while actually writing it.

Part of the reason is that it is necessarily a moving target, changing with the seasons and the weather, where one is located, and with whom one is dining.

The other difficulty is that one is spoiled for choice – how can the topic be narrowed to a reasonable scope if each day brings an exciting new possibility?

Below are my coups de cœur (heart throb) Burgundy producers, as the French would say; the vignerons I turn to for excellent mid-week drinking.

These personal choices are made on impulse rather than logic, and they are organised geographically for simplicity's sake.

The necessary criteria are quality, availability and price. To qualify for everyday drinking, it must be good, readily available in shops or restaurants, and at least reasonably affordable.

Chablis/Auxerrois

A quick look at my personal website reveals a profusion of Chablis. Once ridiculously undervalued, Chablis in recent years has taken off in renown, and in price, yet northern Burgundy still holds surprising value.

Domaine Jean-Hugues & Guilhem Goisot is not as well-known, particularly to anglophone drinkers, as the best Chablis producers, but it also sits at the top of the hierarchy.

It is based in the charmingly obscure town of St-Bris, where the appellation wines are Sauvignon de St-Bris, a close Kimmeridgian cousin of Sancerre.

The Goisot clan produces perhaps the most expressive versions available of this appellation (often on north-facing slopes, sometimes co-planted with Sauvignon Gris), but when the exposure or soils are better suited to Chardonnay (east-facing) or Pinot Noir (south-facing) these grapes are grown and bottled as Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre.

At an extraordinarily reasonable price point, they also produce a winning Aligoté that is widely available.

Côte de Nuits

The Côte de Nuits is the land of grand cru Pinot Noir and one might imagine a struggle to find everyday wines. Luckily, this is not the case at all.

Even top producers can still make wines here that are beautiful and affordable, and Domaine Trapet must surely be at the front rank.

Given the quality here, all the wines could qualify as reasonably priced, but the Passetoutgrain à Minima, a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir from the ‘wrong side of the tracks’ in Gevrey, is a true bargain, as are the Gevrey village-level cuvées 1859 and Ostrea.

These are cuvées produced by Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, formerly directed by Jean-Louis Trapet, whose sons Pierre and Louis are now at the helm.

They have also launched their own label, Pierre & Louis Trapet, where they produce classic styles and some more experimental bottlings.

Worthy of note, the wines from Trapet’s cousin domaine, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, are also of extraordinary value from superb terroirs.

For the summer months it may be useful to highlight Burgundy’s only ‘cru’ rosé from Marsannay. I often mark the beginning of summer by buying in a case of pink for hotter weather.

The classic producer is Domaine Bruno Clair, whose careful combination of direct press and maceration on the skins produces a delightfully elegant summer rosé.

Bruno’s cousins at Domaine Bart and his neighbour Sylvain Pataille also offer worthy renditions.

Côte de Beaune

The wines of Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson are among the most frequent weekday visitors on my dinner table. The domaine is located in St-Romain, where they farm 19ha of certified organic vineyards.

Although the family has lived in the village since the 12th century and trace their work as vignerons to 1758, they have bottled wine under the family name only since 1947, the year in which the village received its own appellation.

Before 1947, St-Romain was considered part of the Hautes-Côtes, tucked away in a valley behind Meursault in the region’s upper slopes, which is why the village is less well-known to many.

The higher elevations meant that in the past the grapes ripened with difficulty, but with a changing climate, St-Romain has come into its own to produce wines with lush, forward fruit that still retain plenty of structure, making them excellent companions to food.

The vineyard-designated St-Romain wines are the star of the show at Buisson, but the red and white Bourgogne-level wines are delicious as well at an eminently affordable price.

Côte Chalonnaise

The Côte Chalonnaise is home to many diverse wine styles. One producer has mastered several: Bruno Lorenzon is producing some of the finest wines anywhere in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Although he is based in Mercurey, known for red wines, his 30 years at the family domaine have given him the experience to produce stunning wines in both colours.

He now produces wines from 9ha of vines, six in Mercurey and three in Montagny. As he noted: ‘I’m a white wine guy who makes Pinot Noir in a Chardonnay way.’

He sometimes delights in running counter to received wisdom, deriding the early-picked, reductive style currently in fashion for Chardonnay in very amusing terms, quoting Henri Jayer: ‘A wine must be good from the beginning’.

He presses whole bunches of Chardonnay delicately and vinifies in a minimalist way without chaptalising, acidifying, or adding sulphur, to sublime results.

In either colour or terroir, the master of Mercurey delivers beautiful wines of precision and impressive depth of flavour.

Mâconnais

The Mâconnais is a fertile hunting ground for the everyday value wines that often appear at my house.

The region is broad and varied, and numerous producers are making great wine at great prices.

Across the appellations of the Mâconnais, from Pouilly-Fuissé premier cru to Mâcon-Villages and beyond, however, the style pioneered by Jean-Marie Guffens and Julian Desplans at Maison Verget consistently delivers satisfaction.

They adapt the winemaking style to each cuvée across a broad range, but in general, the wines are concentrated and aromatic, with a slightly smoky, reductive edge imparted by the winemaking.

Despite picking fairly ripe fruit, the wines never lose their balance and retain a lively freshness that makes them refreshing even in a warm vintage.

Even in an era of skyrocketing prices, these producers show that Burgundy still offers abundant choices for everyday drinking.

Favourite Burgundy producers for everyday drinking

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French sparkling wines designated as Crémant are produced using the traditional method as practised in Champagne, involving a second fermentation in the bottle, and Crémant de Bourgogne is the leading example in this important sector.

Across France, more than 100 million bottles of Crémant are produced each year, in eight regions: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die (in the Rhône), Jura, Limoux, Loire and Savoie.

Crémant de Bourgogne is the closest in style to Champagne, mainly due to the use of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the key varieties (although Aligoté plays a significant role in many blends).

Scroll down for 10 top Crémant de Bourgogne

Appellation rules also permit the use of Gamay (up to a maximum of 20%) as well as Melon and Sacy, although the last two are rarely encountered.

Crémant de Bourgogne is produced over a vast geographical area, ranging from the Yonne department in the north, through the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais to Beaujolais in the south.

Annual production in 2023, according to the national growers’ and producers’ association, was nearly 33.9m bottles, with 46% exported.

Latitude plays a role in determining style, with the wines produced further south having a slightly riper, softer feel to them.

The Crémants from Grand Auxerrois, around Chablis, are grown in similar conditions of climate and geological structure to those of the Aube region in Champagne, not surprisingly resulting in wines with freshness and mineral characters to the fore.

Estates pushing quality

Achieving appellation status in 1975, Crémant de Bourgogne has long been dominated by important (and high-quality) cooperative wineries such as those in Prissé, Lugny and Viré in Burgundy’s south.

Further north, in the Grand Auxerrois, the driving force has been Caves Bailly Lapierre, based in underground cellars that historically were a quarry that supplied stone for the Pantheon in Paris, as well as providing secure housing for German Messerschmitt fighter aircraft during World War II.

Although these larger producers make good- quality sparkling wines, it could be argued that some Crémant de Bourgogne lacks the individuality and excitement of the best Champagne.

In recent years, more estate Crémants (often vintage-specific) have been produced and these are undoubtedly raising the bar.

Look out for wines from Clotilde Davenne in the Auxerrois, Domaine Stéphane Aladame and Famille Vincent (Château Fuissé) in the Chalonnaise/Mâconnais, and Domaine Jean-Noël

Gagnard in the Côte d’Or.

Today, Crémant de Bourgogne is an exciting category with a lot of change taking place, making this a great time to explore the wines.

Andy’s top 10 Crémant de Bourgogne picks

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Looking for value in Burgundy? There’s no doubt, it’s a challenge.

‘In the grand scheme of the world of wines, value is pretty much nonexistent from Burgundy at this point,’ says Jonathan Eichholz MS, co-owner of New York City restaurant pop-up Aftergold and educator at GuildSomm International.

Indeed, a decade ago, stellar expressions of Burgundy’s top sites and winemakers could be found in the $30-$50 (£30-£38) range from US merchants.

Today, says Eichholz, prices for quality Burgundy begin at $60-$80, a reflection of both skyrocketing demand and scarcity.

Nonetheless, you can still find relative value in Burgundy. Lesser-known villages in the shadow of the Côte d’Or’s star appellations still offer reasonably priced wines, particularly in the outer fringes, where the warming climate has widened the margins for fine winemaking.

The region’s historic négociant networks and large domaines provide opportunities to find value, too.

And according to Arnaud Tronche, director of Paris wine store and restaurant Legrand Filles et Fils, a new wave of boutique producers and micro-négociants also offer potential contenders.

Here are 10 tips for discovering the value that still exists in Burgundy today.

1: Head for the heights

The warming climate has made thrillingly mineral, fresh-fruited wines a hallmark of the higher-altitude Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, appellations that extend to the west above the Côte d’Or.

An influx of prominent producers such as Méo-Camuzet, Olivier Leflaive and Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair gained early attention.

Since then, young independent wine-growers and micro-négociants such as Chanterêves, Maison A&S and Marthe Henry Boillot, drawn here by the affordable, distinctive terroir, have brought new energy to this evolving region, says Tronche.

2: Hone in on Chablis and Grand Auxerrois

‘Barring famous names like Dauvissat and Raveneau, Chablis remains quite affordable,’ says Eichholz. Indeed, excellent premier cru Chablis can still be found for less than a basic Bourgogne from top producers.

Outside Chablis, climate change has elevated wines from the Grand Auxerrois (for more detail, see our recent feature on the Grand Auxerrois), particularly village appellations such as Irancy for Pinot Noir or Vézelay for Chardonnay.

Regional bottlings of Coteaux Bourguignons, Bourgogne Chitry and Bourgogne Tonnerre offer further value. Eichholz highlights Domaine Louis Michel & Fils for classically steely Chablis, or William Fèvre for a richer style, while properties such as Domaine Alice et Olivier De Moor represent ‘an exciting new school of Chablis’, he says.

In the Kimmeridgian limestone soils of Irancy, producers such as Gabin and Félix Richoux, and Christophe Ferrari at Domaine St Germain are standouts. In Vézelay, Domaine de la Cadette excels.

3: Delve into the fringes of the Côte de Nuits

Marsannay and Fixin, the northernmost villages of the Côte d’Or, along with the Côte de Nuits Villages, a regional appellation that encompasses the southern and northern edges of the Côte de Nuits, offer rare value within this otherwise pricey part of Burgundy.

Marsannay, still without any premier cru vineyards despite long-promised promotions, remains a great source of value.

Just north of Gevrey-Chambertin, Fixin boasts not only a similar geology but also a structured, focused style reminiscent of its more famous neighbour (see our ‘Burgundy’s underrated premiers crus’ feature).

Sylvain Pataille, renowned for his Marsannay, whether red, white or rosé, is a top pick for Eichholz, along with Bruno Clair, who has deep roots in Marsannay, too.

In Fixin, Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet is a standout, along with Domaine Denis Mortet and Méo-Camuzet for excellent entry-level wines throughout Marsannay and Fixin. Look out for Côte de Nuits Villages bottlings from Didier Fornerol and Camille Thiriet.

Tronche’s tips #1

Bypass the huge markups that have inflated prices in foreign markets by buying and enjoying Burgundy in France.

4: Look beyond Volnay and Meursault

Similarly overlooked, due to the star power of neighbouring Volnay and Meursault, are Monthélie, Auxey-Duresses and St-Romain, a trio of villages that extend to the west of Meursault in the Côte de Beaune.

Monthélie (bordering both Volnay and Meursault) is best known for Pinot Noir with a floral, supple character reminiscent of Volnay. Auxey-Duresses produces both white and red wines that echo Volnay and Meursault, but are leaner and nervier in style.

Here, too, particularly for the higher-elevation St-Romain, the warming climate has allowed for reliably riper wines.

Standout producers include Douhairet-Porcheret in Monthélie, Domaine Lafouge Jean & Gilles in Auxey-Duresses and Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson in St-Romain.

5: Uncover villages in Corton’s shadow

Off the beaten path in the shadow of the grand hill of Corton, the villages of Savigny-lès-Beauneand and Pernand-Vergelesses offer rare value in the heartland of the Côte d’Or.

In cooler times, these neighbouring appellations were known for rustic, often unripe wines.

Today’s warmer climate and the influence of some of Burgundy’s most dynamic wine producers – including Simon Bize, Chanterêves and Domaines Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot, Chandon de Briailles and Guilbert-Gillet (Tronche’s pick, particularly for masterful Aligoté) – have flushed the regions with wines of increasing finesse and pleasure.

6: The secret’s out on St-Aubin

St-Aubin, tucked away behind Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, was once a hidden gem for fans of white Burgundy seeking top-tier quality without top-tier pricing.

At its best, St-Aubin delivers wines of stony intensity and opulence that rival those of its more famous neighbours.

But St-Aubin hasn’t been a secret for well over a decade now and prices for star producers such as Marc Colin, as well as his sons Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and Joseph Colin, have soared.

Jacques Bavard and Domaine de Montille offer more approachably priced options.

7: Chalonnaise

With no grand cru appellations, the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte de Beaune, was known historically for easy-drinking, fruity wines.

But quality has surged in recent decades, particularly in the prime villages of Bouzeron, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny, which share the limestone soils of the Côte d’Or.

Mercurey and Givry in particular offer perfumed, seductively spiced Pinot Noir with longevity that can rival that of better-known appellations.

For Chardonnay, Montagny offers accessible options for premier cru bottlings. Bouzeron is the only village in Burgundy devoted to the Aligoté grape.

Domaine de Villaine, based in Bouzeron, is a star of the region, but producers such as Camille Giroud, Olivier Leflaive and Faiveley offer consistent value.

Domaines Feuillat-Juillot and Berthenet are noteworthy in Montagny, as is Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry.

Tronche’s Tips #2

Generic Bourgogne bottlings, typically blends sourced from across the region, can provide accessible introductions to a producer’s or négociant’s house style.

Look to classic domaine producers such as Lafarge or négociants such as Bouchard Père & Fils, Maison Joseph Drouhin or Louis Jadot for honest expressions of unique terroir at fair prices, or seek out small producers from lesser-known and emerging regions, and micro-négociants such as Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne and Les Horées.

8: Mâconnais

‘The search for inexpensive white Burgundy is an endless game of Whac-a-Mole,’ says Eichholz. ‘Discover an unknown village or producer and prices skyrocket the next day.’

Amid this struggle, the Mâconnais, the southern gateway to Burgundy, has become a bastion for terroir-focused value alternatives to Meursault or Chassagne.

Indeed, its exceptional terroir has made the Mâcon one of Burgundy’s most dynamic regions, attracting renowned producers such as Puligny-Montrachet’s Domaine Leflaive.

Eichholz points to the Bret Brothers/La Soufrandière as a source for extraordinary bang for your buck.

9: Explore the southern fringe of the Côte d’Or

Santenay, at the southernmost edge of the Côte de Beaune, was historically a source for easy-drinking but rustic wines, typically blended into inexpensive Bourgogne.

But the appellation can produce lavish, perfumed Pinot Noir of substance and charm – especially from its 12 premiers crus – that still delivers excellent value.

Notable producers abound in Santenay, including Caroline Morey, David Moreau and Domaine Bachelet-Monnot.

Meanwhile, Bachelet-Monnot and Tronche’s pick, newcomer Domaine de Cassiopée, are among the many young, innovative wine producers who’ve made Maranges, a little west of Santenay, a recent hotbed.

10: Outside the box: Aligoté and Passetoutgrain

Far more than a forgotten cousin, Aligoté is ‘an open, aromatic grape with distinct varietal character – a more extroverted version of Chardonnay’, Eichholz says.

While still a relative bargain, it’s increasingly prominent across Burgundy. Standouts include Sylvain Pataille’s single-vineyard expressions from Marsannay and Ramonet’s Bouzeron.

A more approachable option, however, is Michel Lafarge’s Bourgogne Aligoté Raisins Dorés.

For juicy, uncomplicated reds, the regional Bourgogne Passetoutgrain appellation, with its blends of Pinot Noir and Gamay, often co-planted and co-fermented, can be delightful.

‘Emmanuel Rouget is an especially fancy producer who makes the best Passetoutgrain in all of Burgundy,’ says Eichholz, but producers such as Lafarge, Domaine Robert Chevillon and Domaine Marquis d’Angerville make consistent, more-affordable examples, too.

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The Grand Auxerrois describes a large area in the Yonne department surrounding Chablis in the north of Burgundy. More than a century ago, this was one of the most important wine-producing areas in France, before it was devastated by the phylloxera bug and changing economic conditions.

In the mid-19th century, there were more than 40,000ha of vines, but by 1980, this had fallen to less than 3,000ha (of which Chablis accounted for more than half).

Today, there are a little more than 7,000ha under vine in all. Chablis remains the dominant force in the Yonne and, with the continued rise in prices for wines from the Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and the Côte d’Or, is still one of the few major Burgundian appellations where prices remain affordable.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of 10 fantastic wines from the Grand Auxerrois

But, with continued strong demand, even that is changing, so the areas around Chablis are receiving greater attention as sources of high-quality, terroir-driven wines from Burgundy’s northern extremities.

Geographically, the Grand Auxerrois is closer to Champagne than the Côte d’Or, with many of the appellations situated on Kimmeridgian/Portlandian soils and bearing similar characteristics to those of Chablis and Champagne’s southerly Aube region.

Although frosts remain a major threat, in recent decades the changing climate has had some positive impacts, with warming temperatures enabling Chardonnay, Aligoté and, particularly, Pinot Noir to ripen more fully.

Vincent Wengier in Chablis, says that, ‘global warming has been very beneficial for our region’, while Maison Simonnet-Febvre general manager Paul Espitalié observes: ‘Over the past 15 years, climate change has been very important, particularly for the reds.’

Lay of the land

The Grand Auxerrois comprises four key zones. West of Chablis and south of the town of Auxerre are the appellations of Irancy (the region’s best Pinot Noir), Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Côtes d’Auxerre, Chitry and St-Bris (Burgundy’s sole appellation for Sauvignon Blanc). East of Chablis is the Tonnerrois area, with the two appellations of Epineuil and Tonnerre.

Northwest of Auxerre lies the town of Joigny, home to the tiny, historical appellation of Côte St-Jacques. The fourth sector – Vézelay – is situated 50km southeast of Auxerre.

Here the geology and climate are different to those further north, although the appellation has a deservedly high reputation.

Within the Yonne department, other permitted appellations include Bourgogne Rouge, Rosé and Blanc, together with Coteaux Bourguignons Rouge (for which César and Tressot varieties are also permitted: see below) or Blanc (Sacy).

As with most of Burgundy, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the key grape varieties (with limited use of Pinot Gris for some rosé wines).

Some appellation rules permit the use of Sacy (a white grape mostly used as part of a Crémant de Bourgogne blend), Tressot (an historical but virtually extinct red grape) and César – a tannic, rustic red variety sometimes used to add structure and colour to Pinot Noir.

The Sauvignon Blanc of St-Bris has a markedly different character to those from Italy, South Africa and the New World. In St-Bris the restrained style bears more similarity to Chardonnay in Chablis, and Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre.

Aligoté is another surprise. The grape has a reputation further south for uncomplicated, sometimes overly acidic wines, so it might be assumed that in the cooler climate of the Grand Auxerrois,

Aligoté would become even more strident. Yet here, Aligoté is treated as a high-quality grape, often planted on the most favourable sites with fine exposition, combining with old vines and low yields to give wines that are ripe, rounded and complex.

Clotilde Davenne, one of the area’s most dynamic producers, is a big fan: ‘The Aligoté is filled with sunshine and always ripens at the right time to make wines of beautiful regularity and freshness.’

Wengier agrees, noting: ‘Aligoté surprises me every year with its aromas. It is a sponge which captures both the soil where it was planted and the climate of the harvest year.’

Guide to the appellations of the Grand Auxerrois

Regional appellations

Bourgogne Epineuil

Close to Tonnerre, this appellation includes red and rosé. Red wines must be 100% Pinot Noir and tend to be lighter, red berry in character, with smoky, peppery notes to finish.

Rosés can be made from Pinots Noir or Gris. Epineuil has white pebbly soils similar to those of Chablis.

Bourgogne Tonnerre

Located northeast of Chablis, this appellation is 100% Chardonnay. Vineyards are located on the river Armançon, on clay-limestone soils, with many small valleys providing different expositions. Dry, fruity and aromatic.

Bourgogne Chitry

Chitry is a very close neighbour of Chablis and, with Kimmeridgian soils, it is no surprise that the white wines bear a strong similarity. The appellation includes red, rosé and white wines.

Reds have more pronounced tannins and cherry/red-berry fruit while whites are floral with citrus and gunflint notes.

Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse

Located south of Auxerre on the left bank of the Yonne, Coulanges is an appellation for red, rosé and white wines.

Red wines from Pinot Noir dominate, although some César is permitted in the blend. Coulanges wines are lighter than those from Irancy.

Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre

An important appellation for red, rosé and white wines. Only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are permitted. Expect lighter, velvety reds and mineral-charged whites.

Located on both sides of the Yonne river, on Portlandian and Kimmeridgian soils.

Bourgogne Côte St-Jacques

Home to the most northerly vines in the Bourgogne region, planted on slopes facing southeast and overlooking the town of Joigny.

Red, white and rosé wines are produced predominantly from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a little Pinot Gris.

Soils are chalky, with some flint lower down the slopes. Red wines tend to be fruity and delicate, and the whites and ‘gris’ style rosés fresh and fragrant, ideal as accompaniments to snacks, starters or lighter dishes of all kinds.

Village appellations

Irancy

An appellation since 1999, on the right bank of the river Yonne and 15km southeast of Auxerre. Irancy can include up to 10% César, which adds tannins and colour.

Home of the Auxerrois’ best Pinot Noir, an amphitheatre of vineyards surrounds the village on all sides giving ideal exposure. Lying at 130m-250m, the soils are mostly Kimmeridgian marls together with some brown limestone.

The top estate is Richoux (see ‘names to know’, below), while revered Chablis producer Vincent Dauvissat makes a fine Pinot Noir here.

St-Bris

The only Burgundy appellation that permits Sauvignon Blanc, the appellation St-Bris was established in 2003, replacing that of Sauvignon de St-Bris.

Given the popularity of this grape worldwide, perhaps this was a retrograde step? Jurassic soils of Portlandian/ Kimmeridgian, together with some alluvial deposits, result in a distinctive style offering exotic fruits combined with blackcurrant leaf and mineral notes.

Vézelay

Located 50km south of Auxerre, on both sides of the Cure river – a tributary of the Yonne – the soils of Vézelay are formed from Jurassic marls and limestone, with vineyards facing south/southeast at 190m-330m.

Citrus and mineral on the palate, with stone fruit and notes of acacia and nuts. 100% Chardonnay.

Emerging talent

Espitalié points to the opportunities emerging in the Grand Auxerrois, with the area providing many options for a new generation of young winemakers to find suitable (and affordable) land.

‘Chablis is virtually 100% planted, so in the Auxerrois we are seeing completely new vignerons and estates,’ he says.

He believes the most exciting appellations are those of St-Bris – ‘very good value, fresh and interesting wines from Kimmeridgian or Portlandian soils’ – and Irancy, which he sums up as: ‘The best appellation in the Grand Auxerrois – while it used to be tannic and rustic, now it is fruity, balanced and rounded.’

Today, the major concern for Burgundy drinkers is not the quality or diversity of wines coming from the Grand Auxerrois. Climate change seems to have had some positive benefits here and prices remain very attractive.

More of a challenge is finding a good range of wines from the different appellations. Searching at specialist, local retailers should provide some exciting opportunities.

Eight Grand Auxerrois names to know

Clotilde Davenne

A force to be reckoned with in the Grand Auxerrois, Clotilde Davenne first planted vines in 1992 at what later became her own estate: Les Temps Perdus.

Graduating in oenology, she worked in Beaujolais and California before returning to Burgundy. Davenne worked as winemaker at Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard until 2005 before focusing on her own operation.

The estate now totals more than 30ha across Irancy, St-Bris and Chablis. Davenne produces one of the region’s best Aligotés but also has a particular fondness (and reputation) for Sauvignon from St-Bris.

Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen

Céline (daughter of JM Brocard) and Frédéric (ex-winemaker at Domaine Durup and Brocard) established their own Chablis estate in 2013, now totalling 36ha with vines in Chablis, Chichée, La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne, St-Bris and Irancy.

Since 2015, only organic vineyard practices have been employed. The Gueguens are a dynamic duo with a tasting venue in the centre of Chablis and smart rental apartments.

Domaine Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot

A leading St-Bris estate. Jean-Hugues (known as ‘the Pope of St-Bris’) started to work at the domaine aged 16, and his son Guilhem joined in 2005.

Working organically since 1993 and Demeter-certified biodynamic since 2001, the Goisots believe in the importance of a healthy vineyard, the primacy of terroir and harvesting as late as possible.

The estate (now 30ha) produces some of the finest Bourgogne Aligoté in the Yonne, as well as Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and a small amount of Sauvignon Gris.

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard

Now working with son Julien, Brocard has built this Préhy-based estate into one of the most influential in Chablis.

The Brocards champion biodiversity and organic principles, and have a growing range of wines from other appellations in the Auxerrois.

Domaine Richoux

Acclaimed as the finest producer in Irancy, Thierry Richoux (now with sons Gabin and Félix at the helm) makes stunning Pinot Noirs which compete with the Côte d’Or’s finest.

The family has been working the slopes of Irancy since 1620. It’s now a 19ha estate, and a new winery was set up in 2019.

The Richouxs use natural yeasts, minimal sulphur and prefer to de-stem, with ageing in foudres and large oak barrels.

Domaine Verret

Domaine Verret has been cultivating vines and making wine for five generations. Bruno Verret now runs the family business of 66ha in St-Bris, Irancy and Chablis, producing some 350,000 bottles every year.

Verret adopts as natural an approach to wine-growing as possible, promoting biodiversity. The estate produces Chablis, Côtes d’Auxerre red and white, Aligoté, Irancy and Coteaux Bourguignons red and white.

Domaine Vincent Wengier

The 27ha family estate of Vincent Wengier is located in Préhy. Vincent and Sophie are the fourth generation, although they only put their own names to the wines from 2018.

The Wengier’s have a strong focus on respect for the environment, gaining HVE (high environmental value) certification in 2019, and organic certification from 2023.

Soils are Kimmeridgian clay-limestone with the estate producing Chablis and Petit Chablis in addition to Bourgogne Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Aligoté.

Maison Simonnet-Febvre

Established in 1840, Maison Simonnet-Febvre owns estates across Chablis and the Auxerrois. In 2003, it was acquired by Maison Louis Latour.

Simonnet-Febvre has extensive holdings in Chablis, as well as producing Grand Auxerrois wines from Irancy, Epineuil, Chitry, St-Bris and Vézelay.

Further to the southwest of Chablis, Simonnet-Febvre is now setting out to reinvigorate the vineyards of the lesser-known IGP Coteaux de l’Auxois.

Discover Grand Auxerrois: Howard’s pick of 10 to try

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Aligoté gets no respect. While Chardonnay is extolled as giving a wine of elegance, finesse, complexity and length, and has been called the world’s finest white wine grape, Aligoté is often considered inferior: Anthony Hanson MW noted in his influential 1982 work Burgundy (Faber & Faber), ‘…its wine has higher acidity and less length, flavour and roundness than that of the Chardonnay’.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 26 of the finest Aligoté wines

Despite its comparative lack of finesse, Aligoté is fun, and today a generation of young winemakers is experimenting with Aligoté, with delicious results. It provides a lively, aromatic wine and is often very reasonably priced, in contrast to the more reserved, almost neutral aromas of Chardonnay and its increasingly hefty price-tag.

If there were an Oscar for Best Supporting Grape Variety in Burgundy, it would certainly go to Aligoté.

On the sidelines

Aligoté offers advantages to the wine-grower as well. The grapes are large and juicy, and the yields often higher than Chardonnay. The grapes have high natural acidity, which they retain until late in the ripening cycle – with global warming, this is one of its most attractive features. However, yields must be held in check, because if there are too many bunches on the vine, Aligoté can produce flavourless, mildly tart juice with little character. Producing wine that’s less expensive than Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, Aligoté is less profitable and thus often relegated to lesser sites too high on the slope or in the deep soils at its base, where it can make an insipid wine.

The grape was granted the appellation Bourgogne Aligoté in 1937. However, according to Burgundian historian Guillaume Grillon, the first written records of Aligoté date to the 18th century. By the 19th century, it was planted alongside Chardonnay in Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne, and grower Jérôme Galeyrand speculates that it may be allowed back into more village sites and even in grand cru sites in years to come.

Aligoté can produce beautiful, long-lived wines when the grape is given a foothold in a top-quality site. Domaine Ponsot has been a supporter of Aligoté for more than a century, beginning with William Ponsot in 1911, who replanted his Clos des Monts Luisants after phylloxera to the same grape variety – Aligoté – that had existed there before. Ponsot’s vines are unique today since they are classified as premier cru Morey-St-Denis: the only climat in Burgundy to produce premier cru wine from Aligoté.

Golden opportunity

Although most Aligoté is still bottled with the regional appellation Bourgogne Aligoté, there is also a village appellation devoted to Aligoté: Bouzeron. It was recognised that this commune at the northern tip of the Côte Chalonnaise region produced exceptional Aligoté, chiefly from the superior Aligoté Doré clone. As the name indicates, this vine produces ripe, golden fruit that can age and improve for years, and the best sites in Bouzeron, such as Clos de la Fortune and Les Clous, are now seen as premier single-vineyard sites within this appellation. Pierre de Benoist, director of Domaine de Villaine, notes that this is only seen in the wine with time: ‘You have to wait four to six years before really tasting the quality of the terroir.’

Aligoté covers nearly 2,000ha of Burgundian vineyards, 6.5% of the total. Most is still bottled with the regional Bourgogne Aligoté appellation, and it is also an allowed variety in AP Crémant de Bourgogne. The grape is found from the northern Auxerrois near Chablis to the southern reaches of the Mâconnais. It is produced in a profusion of still and sparkling styles, tank-fermented and barrel-aged, from light, crisp, refreshing wines for current drinking, to dense, rich white Burgundy eminently worthy of ageing.

This grape’s crisp, approachable nature makes it certain that its popularity will continue to grow. Galeyrand certainly endorses it: ‘I love Aligoté for its moderate alcohol, its aromatic profile, and natural freshness when ripe, and its capacity to age without heaviness, a bit like Riesling. The vine is interesting to grow – being slightly rustic, it is less fragile, resists disease, and comes back better than other grapes after a frost. It ripens well, but doesn’t climb too high in alcohol. Aligoté is the wave of the future, because it’s the cool, drinkable and affordable wine of Burgundy.’

Aligoté: Five names to know

Chantereves

The husband-and-wife team of Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott are passionate exponents of Aligoté. They collaborate in their garage to produce beautiful, complex, approachable and wonderfully drinkable wines. Until recently, Bott had a day job making the white wines at Domaine Simon Bize while he and Tomoko produced their own label from purchased grapes.

In 2020, they began to acquire their vineyards, mainly in the Hautes-Côtes, and now both are all-in on their own project. The viticulture is organic, and the grapes are gently crushed before fermentation in large, neutral casks with minimal intervention. These slightly quirky wines will intrigue and delight lovers of modern-style wines. @chantereves

Domaine A&P de Villaine

Bouzeron was first recognised in 1979 with the regional appellation Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron, upgraded to AP Bouzeron in 1998. This evolution was primarily due to the influence of Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, who settled in Bouzeron in the 1970s. Domaine de Villaine is based in Bouzeron, just south of the Côte d’Or at the northernmost end of the Côte Chalonnaise.

Today, the estate is run by Aubert’s nephew, Pierre de Benoist, and produces a revelatory old-vine Bouzeron. The vines have been certified organic since 1986 and are farmed according to biodynamic principles. The wine is fermented in large wood casks after a pre-fermentation maceration in steel, and is aged in cask on the lees without stirring for about a year to produce subtle wines of great complexity.

Jérôme Galeyrand

One of the founders of the growers’ group Les Aligoteurs, Jérôme Galeyrand is a Loire valley native and former cheesemaker who now makes wine from his base in Gevrey-Chambertin. Galeyrand produces various Aligoté wines from several terroirs, ranging from the Côte de Beaune to Bouzeron and elsewhere in the Côte Chalonnaise. Galeyrand farms organically and uses a vertical press before fermentation in older casks and a relatively short ageing with minimal sulphur added before bottling. The style is limpid and pure; engaging on release, the wines do benefit from a bit of age.

Maison Chanzy

Among the notable producers of Bouzeron, none produces more single-site expressions than Maison Chanzy. The house is the proprietor of the only enclosed vineyard in the village: Clos de la Fortune. Chanzy farms nearly 25% of the appellation’s total surface and produces a classic and elegant style of wine using cool-temperature fermentations and ageing in tank, large demi-muid casks, and large wooden foudres to preserve the crisp, refreshing character of Aligoté.

It also makes lieu-dit designates from Bouzeron Les Clous, Les Cordères and Les Corcelles, as well as one that is a blend of several lieux-dits.

Sylvain Pataille

Long a champion of the Aligoté grape, Sylvain Pataille was instrumental in the foundation of the group of growers known as Les Aligoteurs. He explains: ‘The alligator is an animal that wants to fight, wants to be alive – like Aligoté.’ Pataille produces a profusion of single-vineyard expressions, from Chenôve in the northern Côtes de Nuits to the cool, west-facing slopes of the Corcelles lieu-dit in Bouzeron.

He explains that the warmer, well-drained stony soils, such as Champ Forey in Marsannay, produce rich, exuberant wines, while cooler terroirs with more clay, such as La Charme aux Prêtres, produce more reserved wines with more freshness. He uses an old-fashioned vertical press and ferments with most of the lees to encourage some reduction. These are powerful, complex wines that deserve serious attention. +33 (0)3 80 51 17 35

Exemplary Aligoté: 26 of the best across Burgundy

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Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is one of the leading producers of red wines in the Côte de Beaune, owning 11.5ha of premier cru climats out of the 110ha designated within the appellation, many situated in Volnay’s best-known crus including Taillepieds, Champans, Caillerets and Clos des Angles.

Perhaps its most famous is the historical monopole Clos des Ducs – a south-facing climat on steep slopes right next to the village, marked by excellent drainage and stony soils.

Although this may be d’Angerville’s most notable cru, Taillepieds (located to the south of Volnay and adjacent to Meursault) is clearly capable of matching (and sometimes exceeding) it.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 17 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville wines

Guillaume d’Angerville (the sixth generation in charge of the family estate) took over at the domaine in 2003 following the death of his father, Jacques.

2021 represents his 18th vintage and it was one which Guillaume characterises as ‘the odd one out’, going on to explain, ‘for the younger generation of winemakers, they have seen nothing like this in 20 years.’

2021 was undoubtedly a difficult vintage, but modern winemaking techniques have played a key part in making these wines such fine expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Guillaume compared the vintage to those from previous decades: ‘2021 is like the vintages of the ‘70’s and ‘80’s but without the defects,’ and described the end result as ‘bright, joyous and crystal clear’, observing that 2021 was ‘salvaged by three beautiful weeks in September, bright light and a strong northerly wind.’

The cooler nights in September were also important. ‘Harvesting in September is much better, as there is just a gradual increase in sugar content, compared to harvesting in August,’ says Guillaume.

Despite the benefits derived from the fine September weather, volumes were still significantly reduced with the usual production of 12 barrels of Clos des Angles reduced to just two. Only one barrel of Caillerets was produced, compared to the normal volume of six.

The estate has been biodynamic for many years and utilises 100% destemming. Pumping over is favoured rather than punching down, with rarely more than 20% new barrels used.

The emphasis is clearly on finesse and restraint, a character exemplified in 2021. Acidity is pure and laser-like, and the top wines will undoubtedly age beautifully for many years.

Alongside the 2021s, a bottle of 2020 Champans Premier Cru provided a fascinating contrast, confirming the difference in character between these two years.

While 2021 was light in colour, lifted and floral, the 2020 displayed the deep purple hue typical of the year, with extra ripeness and concentration on the palate. Both vintages of Champans are high-class wines and it will be fascinating to see how these develop over the next few decades.

As well as the range of premier crus, Guillaume d’Angerville also showed a pure, precise Bourgogne Passetoutgrains and a Bourgogne Rouge, with the latter providing a great introduction to the style of the domaine.

White wines were represented by a 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Blanc and two vintages of Meursault Santenots Premier Cru. The Aligoté was rather dominated by acidity at the moment, although the Meursault Santenots displayed the concentration and finesse hoped for.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is certainly one of the leading red-wine estates in Volnay, and one which opts for understated elegance rather than power. Quizzed on his vintage preference, Guillaume noted: ‘I have a very soft spot for 2021.’ Regardless, these are the sort of wines I love to drink.

17 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville wines tasted and rated

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In the wider context of the wines of Burgundy, the 55 hectares which comprise the whole of the Bouzeron AOP may not seem particularly significant. When one considers that the key attribute of this small, recently created appellation is the less fashionable Aligoté grape, you might think there is not much here to pique the interest of white Burgundy fans.

Perhaps now is the time to think again.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Maison Chanzy wines

Bouzeron AOP came into existence in 1997 but this area, situated within the Côte Chalonnaise, has been renowned as an ideal place to cultivate Aligoté since the seventeenth-century.

In this area, relatively high altitudes, combined with varied soils of limestone and blue marl on the higher slopes and clay soils lower down, provide a freshness and crispness to the grapes which augur well given the challenges of warming climate.

Aligoté is sometimes referred to as Burgundy’s ‘other white grape variety’ but plantings are small (around 2,000ha in all of France in 2008). The variety, particularly if over-cropped, can produce very tart, harsh wines which are designed for early-drinking, and are often considerably improved by the addition of crème de cassis and served as a kir.

But, planted in the right area, with reduced yields giving additional concentration, Aligoté is showing some dramatic quality improvements.

Maison Chanzy showed the potential for Aligoté at a recent tasting, with three different slants on the distinctive Bouzeron terroir.

History

Chanzy is a relatively new name, with the origins of the estate dating back to Joseph Sordet at the beginning of the twentieth-century, under the name Domaine Sordet.

Originally 6ha in area, the estate saw several changes of owner before being taken over in 1974 and becoming Domaine Chanzy. By then, the estate comprised 37ha of Aligoté, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir planted in the Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.

Further expansion took place after the sale of Chanzy to the OLMA investment group in 2013, with the estate now totalling 80ha (with 66ha under vine).

Chanzy continues to evolve. The domaine is one of the few Burgundian producers to hold the Haute Valeur Environmental 3 certification, and has strengthened its winemaking and commercial operations.

Max Blondelle, who worked for 14 years at Domaine Chanson in Chablis, is now in charge of winemaking and has brought a greater focus on individual terroir, together with subtle changes to oak-ageing regimes. There is certainly a Chablis ‘feel’ to some of the wines, with very little oak influence and crisp acidity allied to a mineral finish.

Xavier Badinand, Director-General, explained some of the key reasons why the quality of Bouzeron Aligoté has improved so much. ‘In the past, Aligoté was picked first and now it is picked last.’ he says. Despite having south/south-east exposure the Bouzeron vineyards of Chanzy benefit from the altitude and this, combined with low-yields, gives concentrated, plush wines with plenty of ageing capacity. To add cassis to these would be a mistake.

There have also been subtle shifts in oak regime with the previous emphasis on 700 litre vessels now adapted to 500l/300l and 228l barrels. No more than 15% new oak is used.

The wines

Les Trois is a blend of three separate plots primarily matured in steel tank with a small element of oak maturation. An ideal introduction to the Bouzeron AOP. Chanzy also own the only Monopole within the AP – Clos de La Fortune – and bottle this as a ‘straight’ monopole wine, together with a very limited production ‘Vielles Vignes’. In the 2020 vintage, just 854 bottles of the latter were produced and these are only available en-primeur.

In addition to the Bouzeron Aligoté, Chanzy also showed a Rully Blanc Le Cailloux, with plenty of mineral character allied to good ageing potential. They also own vineyards in Mercurey and Maranges, with Pinot Noir from these two APs showing distinct terroir-driven style.

The Maranges was decidedly more earthy with firm tannins but also showing plenty of dark cherry and berry fruit, whilst the Mercurey 1er Cru had poise and elegance, together with refined tannin and a delicacy which emphasises how wine quality is on the up in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Chanzy’s Aligoté bottlings are very fine for this grape variety, and show the potential available given good site selection, later harvesting and reduced yields. They are wines which still retain an unmistakable white Burgundy character whilst providing something quite different to the region’s other white wines.

Andy Howard MW’s Maison Chanzy notes and scores

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Domaine Jacques Carillon

Burgundy 2021: What to expect

Wine lovers in the US, UK and several other major markets appeared to show greater interest in Burgundy Crémant wines in 2019. 

Burgundy’s wine council, the BIVB, reported that exports of Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wines to the US rose by nearly 23% in both volume and value in 2019. 

Exports to the UK rose more quickly, by nearly 67% in volume and 42% in value, although the BIVB added that Crémant only makes up 3% of Burgundy’s wine shipments to the country. 

Merchants in Japan also bought significantly more Crémant wines last year, with exports up by nearly 40% in volume and 23% in value. 

Sparkling wines have become increasingly popular around the world, and the BIVB figures highlight how French Crémant sparkling wines in general may pose fresh competition for more established names, such as Prosecco or even Champagne in some price categories.

However, a relatively small 2019 harvest in Burgundy meant that producers have been forced to use reserve wines to maintain Crémant supply, said the BIVB. 

Without the reserves, the 2019 harvest for Crémant sparkling wines would have been 21% down on the five-year average, and around 42% lower than 2018, said the BIVB. 

Record Burgundy exports in 2019, but concerns linger for 2020

Higher demand for Crémant helped to cement a record year for overall Burgundy wine exports in 2019, with shipments hitting nearly €1.04bn. That’s a 10% increase on the previous year, and it also reflects the bigger 2018 harvest in the region.  

But, as previously reported, the recently-introduced US import tariffs on still wines at 14% abv or below caused a drop-off in French wine exports in the final months of the year. 

These tariffs are set to continue until at least August 2020, and there are naturally also concerns around the challenges posed by the outbreak of coronavirus strain Covid-19. 

Both of these issues have, however, put ongoing uncertainty over Brexit in a degree of context, according to the BIVB. 

‘Brexit had long been a subject of concern for the French wine industry, but now appears less troubling compared to the Trump tax [US tariffs] or the economic fallout of the coronavirus Covid-19 epidemic in China,’ it said.

See also:

Andrew Jefford’s guide to Crémant de Bourgogne

If you own land under vine on Burgundy’s legendary Côte d’Or, don’t expect many commiserations. Prices for grand cru vineyards have doubled in a decade and you can probably sell every drop you bottle, twice.

All you need do is exactly what your predecessors did, give or take a few winery improvements and perhaps a more careful attitude to chemicals on the vines.

Scroll down for Nina Caplan’s pick of the world’s best Aligoté

Of course, you’re worried about climate change and you fret about frost and hail. But as a winemaker in one of the world’s best-loved wine regions, you probably encounter pity only slightly more frequently than you see Cabernet Sauvignon vines.

But that’s all right: Burgundy’s best young winemakers aren’t looking for pity, except perhaps from the heavens in the matter of late spring frosts. What they want is something even less in evidence: a chance to remake the world. It’s all very well doing things just as your fathers did (and, usually, it was fathers – or at least the men took the credit).

But it is not how the next generation likes to operate. Which may be one reason for an obsession their forefathers certainly didn’t share: with Aligoté, a grape as underrated and misunderstood as any teenager.

‘Aligoté is high in yield,’ wrote one commentator in 1841 (as quoted by Pierre Rézeau in his Dictionnaire des noms de cépages de France). ‘The new wine has a particular, rather disagreeable flavour, which disappears after a few weeks.’ Charming.

Aligoté is still viewed as a boring, acidic white grape, good only for sweetening with cassis to make kir or persuading to bubble as Crémant de Bourgogne. And there’s plenty of mediocre Aligoté around, but that’s true of Chardonnay too. Are Aligoté’s problems a fair judgement on the variety, or is it a matter of winemaking, terroir and tradition?

Expensive indulgence

I visited the Côte d’Or to enquire and found a bunch of friendly fanatics. All of them make their living from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, because buyers ‘want something they already understand’, says Laurent Fournier of Domaine Jean Fournier. The obsession with Aligoté is an expensive indulgence, since it involves planting the better terroirs with a variety that sells for far less than Chardonnay. But they are unrepentant. ‘Aligoté is almost more expressive of terroir than Chardonnay is,’ says Sylvain Pataille of Domaine Sylvain Pataille, whose Marsannay reds have won him praise that would distract a lesser man from Aligoté. The two white varieties are close relations – both offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, both probably native to this region. One is revered (on the Côte d’Or at least), the other despised. What happened?

Phylloxera is part of the answer. There were Aligoté vines blended in with the Chardonnay before the louse arrived in the 19th century, and afterwards many were not replaced, as Chardonnay was deemed more valuable. But Aligoté had been mistrusted before that, as that grumpy 1840s quote indicates, possibly as it requires more work in the vineyard to show its full potential.

Not everyone agreed: there was still Aligoté on premier cru hillsides after World War II; some was pulled out of the grand cru Corton-Charlemagne vineyards in the 1970s. Domaine Ponsot makes Le Clos des Monts Luisants, the only premier cru Aligoté, thanks to a bloody mindedness that refused to accept 20th-century rules devaluing the grape. Surely, if one great terroir can make top-calibre Aligoté, then others can too.

Fan club

Fournier thinks so. ‘I had some old vines and I wanted to make a serious, gastronomic Aligoté, but nobody was interested,’ he says. At a Parisian restaurant, a few Aligoté fanciers found a dozen Aligotés on the list: ‘We couldn’t believe it,’ recalls Pataille. So he ordered them all. It may have taken the proprietor, Philippe Delacourcelle, a few moments to realise that his customers (who had not requested a spittoon) were connoisseurs rather than drunkards, but then their shared passion became the root of a deep friendship.

Now, Delacourcelle has built Boisrouge, a beautiful restaurant and five-bedroom guesthouse in the woods near Flagey-Echézeaux, and serves as president of an informal organisation known – with a wink to both auteurs and reptiles – as Les Aligoteurs.

At first, they were just a handful of younger free-thinkers, including Pataille and Fournier, who were childhood friends; Nicolas Morin, a négociant in Nuits-St-Georges; Pablo Chevrot in Maranges; and Anne Morey in Meursault. Pierre de Benoist, nephew of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Aubert de Villaine and overseer of his property at Bouzeron, has become very involved too. ‘Aligoté needs a champion,’ he says.

Well, now it has 51 of them, with a successful salon in 2018 under their collective belt. There is big demand to join the Aligoteurs, Fournier says: ‘But we don’t want to get too big. We want to make great wine and achieve recognition for it without taking ourselves too seriously.’ They don’t insist on organic practice; they don’t insist on much. ‘We want to respect everyone’s choices. But we do want people who will open a few bottles – you can’t just say you have nothing to sell; that’s not our philosophy.’

Seriously good

You can say that again. During my day with the Aligoteurs I think I tasted close to 100 Aligotés, some seriously good. Many had a delicate, lemony minerality and a lick of salt. Some were creamier, thanks to time in oak; most registered the acidity for which Aligoté is best known – a quality that should make ageing perfectly possible. And, in fact, the oldest wine I tried, a Domaine Chevrot 1986, had lovely flavours of honey and quince paste, despite being past its best.

‘People don’t really talk about Aligoté,’ says Damien Colin of Domaine Marc Colin, who isn’t an Aligoteur but has a similar outlook; ‘They forget it’s a noble Burgundian variety.’ He grows his Aligoté on clay soils in St-Aubin and Puligny-Montrachet and leaves it in old oak for 13 months (the Chardonnay gets 18 months). It ages well, he tells me, and he likes the fact that he can sell it far cheaper than his Chardonnay – ‘otherwise my countrymen will never get to taste my wines’.

Aligoté ripens later than Chardonnay – an advantage, given climate change – and buds early, which makes it more resistant to cold. It’s less susceptible than Chardonnay to several diseases, including powdery mildew and grey rot. Nonetheless, when the AC system was created in 1937, Aligoté was only awarded the lowly classification Bourgogne Aligoté.

In 1979 Bouzeron gained its own village appellation, and is very proud of its Aligoté Doré, which is now propagated through massal selection and is believed to be a richer, higher quality clone than the more common Aligoté Vert. Then in 1997, Bouzeron was recognised as an AC, largely because here the Aligoté is planted on the better, higher slopes.

Wine and laughter

They’re lovely, those slopes, their dark soil littered with crumbled chunks of limestone and tiny purple wildflowers. Benoît Pagot takes us to his tiny Domaine Gouffier winery; de Benoist shows off the conservatoire where he is preserving the variety’s genetic diversity. Pataille points to 7ha that Bouchard recently sold, to 13 producers – although for now he

himself is not one of them. His four parcels of Aligoté are elsewhere; the largest is 0.3ha. He vinifies and bottles each individually, despite the fact that this is economic insanity.

‘We don’t grow Aligoté to get rich,’ agrees Fournier, and even de Benoist, with the world-famous name of de Villaine on his bottles and vines up to 115 years old, sells his Aligoté for about €15 and sometimes gets asked why it costs so much.

Back at Boisrouge, Delacourcelle brings out gougères (Burgundian cheese puffs) and white asparagus, both excellent with the bottles of Aligoté that litter the table. The Aligoteurs drink, eat and laugh – the former president Jacques Chirac would have made a fine winemaker, someone cracks, ‘because in 12 years he did almost nothing!’). Getting rich feels like a poor alternative.

Others are interested in Aligoté, too: it’s France’s 10th most widely planted white grape, very popular in Eastern Europe, and Château des Charmes even makes one in Ontario. Hickinbotham and Garagiste, two wineries in Australia’s Mornington Peninsula, both turn out impressive versions.

Back in France, a second gathering awaits in Paris on 2 December. There will be much wine and more laughter. Doors will be closed to the closed-minded; everyone else is welcome.

Nina Caplan is an awarded journalist, writer and editor. She writes a column for the New Statesman, and was the Louis Roederer International Food & Wine Writer of the Year 2016

See Nina Caplan’s pick of the world’s best Aligoté

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