Get me a glass of Malbec.’ ‘Add a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to the shopping list.’ ‘I love a good Cabernet.’

Grape varieties have become shorthand for the wines we feel like drinking, sometimes not really giving much thought to their origin or producer.

Sure, the Malbec will be from Argentina. The Sauvignon Blanc? Maybe from Chile – or New Zealand, or the Loire.

The ubiquity of varietal-labelled wines has created an easy way to communicate with consumers. At the same time, however, it has also hindered an engagement with the beautiful, sometimes messy, reality of the vines and people behind them.

This is particularly true in South America, where the development of viticulture is woven into the complex narrative of colonisation.

Single-varietal wines stood for a sense of modernity that seemed to overcome a fractured, contentious past. But things have been rapidly changing in the last decade, as both viticultural and geopolitical heritages are reassessed.

‘South America, and Argentina in particular, followed the Californian [variety-based], rather than the European [origin-based] model, of marketing wines,’ explains 2024 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient Susana Balbo, who, in addition to leading her successful winery, served three terms as president of Wines of Argentina between 2006 and 2016.

‘When we were looking at how to raise our profile in export markets, we did a number of studies and that was the direction that was chosen. In many ways it worked; Argentinian Malbec became a success all over the world. But now we need to overcome that success. We were very comfortable [with the varietal focus] for 20 years, but luckily we’re being forced out of our comfort zone.’

Injecting creativity

Overcoming that success, Balbo and others argue, means engaging with the nuances of terroir and the diversity of grape varieties that make the South American landscape and history both diverse and unique.

Signs of this change in perspective are palpable and have yielded South America’s ‘white wine revolution’ and ‘Criolla revival’. Underpinning these ‘movements’ is a slow but sure shift from single-varietal wines to blends – from prescriptive, technical winemaking to a creative, personal response to terroir.

‘Blends force you to think and speak about wine differently,’ continues Balbo. ‘They inherently tell stories and individual perspectives, rather than “packaged” messages about grape varieties. This is particularly important because we need to champion our heritage – now more than ever.’

Balbo has put this philosophy into practice. As the creator of South America’s first fine white blend based on the Criolla variety Torrontés (her Signature White Blend), she tapped into and, in a way, catalysed many of the ongoing changes.

Blends also bring to the forefront the incredible wealth of old vineyards that South America is home to, and the diverse genetic material that they contain.

Sisters Laura and Adrianna Catena have been fierce advocates for this stock of massal selections (vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing vine stocks), which they argue calls into question the notions of Old versus New World that structure orthodox wine discourses.

‘People often think of Europe as the classical source of old grapes, and therefore fine wine,’ says Laura Catena.

‘Without knowing that in fact most of Europe’s vineyards are mono-clonal, relatively new plantings. Meanwhile, in South America we have these incredible, truly old and in many cases ungrafted, massal selections.’

The sisters argue that not only does this bring a different kind of complexity to the wines, but it also lends them a symbolic value that goes well beyond what’s in the glass.

They echo Balbo’s view that heterogeneity forces a different way of talking and engaging with wine, focused on narrative rather than labels.

From California to Bordeaux

In counterpoint to the varietal focus that informed export-growth strategies, as South America’s producers began to toy with the idea of fine wine during the 1990s, Bordeaux was undoubtedly the role model.

Star consultants such as the late Michel Rolland, Paul Hobbs and Alberto Antonini were brought in to produce Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends in Chile and Argentina, only to be surprised by the allure of extreme terroirs that yielded particular expressions of the classical varieties.

If some (Rolland, for example) remained faithful to a signature framework, most winemakers were taken in by the idiosyncrasies of the South American landscapes, laying the groundwork for truly South American classics such as Seña and Nicolás Catena Zapata.

The emergence of a new generation of extremely talented and globally well-travelled local winemakers only helped these wines to evolve into a character of their own, rather than being derivative, Bordeaux-informed iterations.

This also meant, almost inevitably, that Cabernet’s protagonism began to be questioned, not least because varieties such as Tannat and Carmenère found such a strong – and arguably more alluring and nuanced – character away from French climes.

Again, their interpretation has changed significantly over the past few years, increasingly attuned to place and to the synergetic potential of blending.

Santiago Deicas, third generation at the helm of his family' eponymous Uruguayan winery, explains the evolution through two Tannat-based blends produced by Deicas.

‘Preludio [Gran Vino de Corte] was born from my father’s urge to produce a fine, classical, Bordeaux-inspired blend,’ he says.

‘With [Extreme Vineyards] Subsuelo Corte Unico, I really want to convey the essence of our vineyards.’

Reclaiming Malbec

The way in which Deicas discusses his wines is symptomatic of the overall change of mindset to which Balbo alluded.

‘Blends change the tone of the conversation,’ Balbo says. ‘They evoke an identity and individual expression. They challenge [the consumer], while creating possibilities and more intrigue. There’s no script. If you can’t talk about the Malbec or the Tannat or the Chardonnay, you’re forced to talk about your feelings and perception.’

This is true for consumers as much as for producers, whose terroir and blending explorations have actually allowed for a better understanding of each variety – not least the mighty, and so often misunderstood, Malbec, which is in many ways being rediscovered through the lenses of terroir on the one hand and stylistic plasticity on the other.

The latter has seen producers experiment with fermentation vessels, ageing regimes and maceration times, focusing less on extraction and power, and instead seeking more purity, focus and drinkability.

In the pursuit of balance, the genetic diversity of old massal selections has proven an invaluable asset, ultimately highlighting the potential of blending – either in the vineyard or in the cellar.

This is arguably allowing for Malbec to be reclaimed as a variety rather than a ‘brand’.

Singular identities

‘The history of South American wine is a history of blends,’ says Jimena López, head winemaker at Bodega Andeluna, Mendoza.

‘It’s the story of settlers and of the different grapes they brought with them.’

It’s also the history of serendipitous crossings, new varieties and pioneering experimentation – creativity led by necessity and opportunity.

Among the most dramatic contributions to the reappreciation of old vineyards and overlooked terroirs has been the revival of Criolla varieties.

This family of grapes encompasses both those initially brought by Spanish settlers (of which País/ Listán Negro/ Criolla Chica and different Moscatels are perhaps the most important) and the different crossings that have originated in South American soil.

Among the latter are Criolla Grande and Torrontés, two very different crossings of País and Moscatel of Alejandría.

Known as ‘the queen of Torrontés’, Balbo has long championed the variety – which is the main component in her Signature White Blend.

‘Finally, we’re seeing these varieties for what they truly are and for all the beautiful wines they can make,’ she says.

She’s currently planting Torrontés on high-elevation sites in the heart of Gualtallary – mirroring what’s being done with Malbec in response to climate change – determined to give it equal, noble standing in the most privileged terroirs.

Playing the field

Across Argentina and Chile, producers are also tapping into old field blends. Once seen as a source of lesser-quality, natural-leaning wines, they are now considered a treasure trove in which nuance and complexity are effortlessly achieved while at the same time facilitating conversations about history, heritage and identity.

As is often the case in South America, contradiction lies at the heart of the ongoing vinous transformation.

It’s both puzzling and fascinating that to truly reclaim its viticultural identity, the continent is having to look back at its colonial past and acknowledge how, in trying to distance itself from it, it promoted a different kind of conquest (the California- and Bordeaux-inspired models) that at the same time built and eroded the continent’s modern viticultural history.

Above all, however, Balbo says that these changes of focus should make wine more fun, for consumers and producers alike.

‘Blending is the art of true expression and creativity in oenology,’ she says. ‘There’s such pleasure in the [blending] exercise.’

Meanwhile, the resulting wines are more dynamic, living entities in which different players playfully fight for centre stage.

‘As the wine evolves – in the glass and in the bottle – different elements and varieties reveal themselves. You never get bored and are often surprised.’

Untangling history

South America is, in its very essence, a continent of mixtures and unexpected encounters, of radically different traditions meeting, clashing and eventually yielding something new, unexpected and at the same time ancestral.

It is, and always has been, a place of intense, at times chaotic but always fascinating, creative energy, catalysed by extreme landscapes and ardent feelings. Its viticultural heritage is no different.

Each of the blends featured here untangles a bit of winemaking history. Meanwhile, Balbo is already working on a new white blend.

‘White blends are the next step of this revolution,’ she says. But which of the many revolutions is she referring to?

Maybe they’re all part of a single quest: claiming the beautiful, creole soul of South America’s fine wines.

South American blends

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On April 17, wine lovers will raise a glass of full-bodied red in honour of Malbec’s remarkable rise to prominence. This popular grape was in danger of fading into obscurity in France, but it crossed the globe and reinvented itself as Argentina’s flagship variety. Malbec is now flourishing around the world, from California to China, while it continues to go from strength to strength in its Mendoza heartland.

Why April 17?

On April 17, 1853, President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento of Argentina hatched a plan to modernise the country’s wine industry. He hired French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget, who brought a series of European vine cuttings across the Andes. Pouget experimented with a bunch of French varieties, but it was Malbec that thrived in Argentina’s diverse terroirs.

In 2011, Wines of Argentina launched World Malbec Day to celebrate the anniversary of the grape’s reinvention. It’s a popular event in Argentina, but Malbec World Day has spread around the world, with a busy schedule of tastings and events.

From French châteaux to the Andean foothills

Malbec originated in the French region of Cahors in around 150 AD. It proved popular with Europe’s elites in the Middle Ages, especially with Eleanor of Aquitaine. However, the grape – known locally as Côt – faded in the ensuing centuries. A devastating frost in 1956 then wiped out around three-quarters of France’s Malbec vineyards.

On the other side of the world, Malbec was beginning to shine. In Mendoza’s sun-drenched, high-altitude vineyards, the grape found conditions it could only dream of in France: dry air, intense sunshine, dramatic day-to-night temperature swings and virtually no rot.

Malbec responded by producing deeply coloured wines with velvety tannins, ripe dark berry flavours and its signature floral lift. Today, Argentina is home to around 85% of the world’s Malbec plantings, and the variety’s expressions range from the rich, concentrated reds of Maipú’s older vines to the elegant, mineral-driven wines emerging from the cooler, higher reaches of the Uco Valley and Salta’s vertiginous vineyards.

Scroll down to discover top-scoring Malbec wines from DWWA 2025

A versatile variety

Malbec’s appeal lies in its versatility. The grape delivers approachable, fruit-forward wines at everyday price points, but it can also produce age-worthy wines that perfectly express the local terroir, rivalling the world’s finest reds. It takes beautifully to oak, developing notes of chocolate, vanilla and tobacco, and it also works well in blends.

Beyond Argentina, it continues to thrive in Cahors – where it is enjoying a renaissance – and Malbec is also gaining ground in Chile, Australia and Californian regions like Napa and Paso Robles. They’re even making high-quality Malbec in China’s Ningxia region.

This April 17, whether you opt for a bold Mendoza classic or a brooding Côt from Cahors, pull the cork and raise a glass to one of wine’s great reinventions. Few grapes have travelled so far and come back with such a good story to tell.

Argentina

Durigutti Family Winemakers, Proyecto Las Compuertas 5 Suelos, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Multitudes of cherries, blackberries, plums and blueberries entangled in a lavish sage and lavender fragrance. Silky smooth and finely textured with svelte tannins whilst retaining a vigour and verve which flows unswervingly to the finish line. Alcohol 13%

Etchart, Single Vineyard, Cafayate, Salta 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Archetypal high-altitude Malbec exuding all the classic hallmarks: plums, blackberries and cherries underpinned by a lively herbal core. Snappy and energising, a spicy balsamic character saunters over the palate and conjoins with a stony mineral note to end. Alc 14%

Finca Flichman, Microterroir Gravel & Stone, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021
Platinum, 97 points
Incomparable splendour and sophistication emanates with layer upon layer of violets, blueberries, liquorice and dark chocolate which infuse with the rapturous tannins and bracing beam of acidity. Ample and mouth-filling with a refined mineral length. Alc 14%

Domaine Bousquet, Finca Lalande Organic, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Brilliant blackberry and sweet cherry fruit with rippling graphite and savoury spice notes. Ripe tannin, zesty acidity and a very long finish maintain the bright focus to the last. Alc 14%

Finca Sophenia, E's Vino, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Rippling with succulent blueberry fruit and violet, floral perfume with an energising palate of plump fleshy tannins and zingy acidity, concluding with a balsamic twist. Alc 14%

Huichaira, Cielo Arriba, Jujuy 2022
Gold, 95 points
The epitome of a wine from incredibly high altitudes; layers of blackcurrant, sweet spicy herbs and florals are enmeshed in satin texture and tannins with breath-taking acidity to boot. Alc 14%

Majestic, Zuccardi Definition, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022
Value Gold, 95 points
Tenacious ripe blackberries, blueberries and cherries rumble over the savoury spice and smoky oak core. Firm and powerful with bold, grippy tannins and a peppery finale. Alc 14.5%

Marks & Spencer, Collection Susana, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Splendid blue fruit and violet perfume interweaves nicely with the plush tannins and densely structured palate, with a bite of mineral fresh acidity to finish. Alc 14%

Santa Julia, Family Reserve, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Abundant red and blue fruits with hints of violet and mint. Richly structured with chalky tannins, cocoa notes to fill out the fruit and vivacious acidity: generous Mendoza classicism. Alc 13.5%

Viñalba, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
A buoyant parade of damsons, plums and cherries with a fresh herbal energy kept in check by the soothing acidity and softening tannins. Charm personified. Alc 13.5%

Chile

Viña Undurraga, Red Field Blend, Maule 2022
Gold, 95 points
Aromatic blackberry, violet petals and pink peppercorn notes provide interest and intrigue with a mouth-watering juiciness driving through the palate. Soothing, smooth and reassuringly long. Alc 14.5%

China

Mountain Wave, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
Gold, 96 points
Hugely concentrated damson florals, black cherries and plums with a bewitching clove and vanilla aspect. Stylish and plush with silky tannins and a lofty, lingering acidity. Superb! Alc 14%

France

Château de Haute-Serre, Grand, Cahors, Southwest France 2023
Platinum, 97 points
A spine-tingling drive of energy and allure: sweet damsons, red berries and fragrant spices permeate the impeccably structured palate, complete with sleek tannins and an inviting acidity. Attractive and beautifully fresh with a moreish finish. Alc 14%

Clos Triguedina, Cahors, Southwest France 2021
Gold, 95 points
Towering with intense black fruit, black pepper and sweet oak spice which unfolds over the velvety structure and confident tannins displaying great typicity and charisma. Alc 13%

United States

Clos du Val, Stags Leap District, California 2022
Gold, 95 points
A powerhouse of crushed blackberries, plums and blueberry vanilla compote with a slick smoky cedarwood persistence. Structured and bold with decisive tannins and a lively finish. Alc 15%

Search all DWWA 2025 results

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About Dr Laura Catena

Dr Laura Catena is a fourth-generation Argentine vintner, author and a physician, with a medical degree from Stanford University. As MD of family winery Catena Zapata and founder of Luca Wines, she has spearheaded Argentina’s rise on the international wine stage. She is founder of the Catena Institute, writes regularly on wine and health-related research and has won several awards, including an ‘Old Vine Hero Award’ from The Old Vine Conference.

Dr Catena will be hosting a lunch at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2026 with a special selection of wines, including from acclaimed South American 'grand cru' the Adrianna Vineyard.

Perfect pairings: 'Wine First'

Travel tips: From New York to Mendoza

Argentina's wine future

Meet Dr Laura Catena and taste a special selection of Catena Zapata wines at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2026 on 6 June.

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For many, ‘light South American reds’ will sound like an oxymoron. The continent is mostly associated with – and celebrated for – assertive reds with muscular tannins, plush fruit and considerable ageing potential.

And yet, the evolution and diversity of wines produced from red-skinned grapes across South America makes the case for looking beyond the lauded expressions of Malbec, Carmenère, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon.

While these have consolidated South America as a source of some of the world’s most exciting wines, the real excitement is perhaps elsewhere, in the rediscovery of grapes and terroirs that produce lighter shades of red.

Spoiled for choice

Tasting wines for this piece was an embarrassment of riches. We could easily have featured twice as many examples of equal quality and character.

To frame this selection I first had to answer the question my friend Nacho Campos (former sommelier extraordinaire now working for UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene) asked when I told him I was writing this piece: ‘But how light is a light red?’

The pursuit of levity, detail, purity and elegance – at the service of varietal and terroir expression – is now a major preoccupation among South American winemakers, reflected across their ranges, not least the Malbecs, Tannats and Cabernet Sauvignons.

But that would be another (interesting!) feature entirely.

Here we focus on truly light-bodied reds, not just a technical premise but also as an opportunity to emphasise the changing landscape (pun intended) of South American red wine production and its wider palette of red varieties.

Producers are rediscovering old vineyards and exploring their vines, engaging with the complex yet fascinating history of their countries and decolonising wine discourse – rightfully placing the local farming traditions of yore alongside the European-informed canon.

Refreshing complexity

Engaging with history in all its beautiful if troubled complexity has expanded South American producers’ wine lexicon and geographical reach – often to surprising extremes.

Featured here are wines from regions that range from the Atacama desert, in northern Chile, to the southern extremes of Patagonia by way of secluded corners of Mendoza (Lalande), San Juan (Calingasta) and the oceankissed Atlántida (Canelones, Uruguay).

Some of these wines do indeed have an aura of mysticism to them – evocative of a time lost and unburied.

This exploration of secluded terroirs goes hand in hand with the ongoing reappreciation of Criolla varieties (on whose revival Amanda Barnes MW reported for our September 2025 issue) and old vineyards bearing early plantings of European grapes that have since fallen into disfavour.

Did you know that there are centenary Cinsault vineyards growing on granite in Itata Valley?

Or that Garnacha can produce ethereal iterations of Mendoza?

That a spontaneous crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Listán Prieto resulted in a variety called Moscatel Tinto?

Or that Bastardo/Trousseau has a long history in Argentine Patagonia? Now you do.

Fridge door-ready

How does this all translate into drinking pleasure? Very well indeed.

History and technicalities notwithstanding, the lighter reds of South America are straightforwardly fun and interesting – a perfect reflection of the winemaking community and ebullient wine scene of which they’re a product.

If you want proof of the continent’s technical evolution, spectacular creativity, inspiring confidence – and historical reckoning – look no further, one refreshing sip at a time.

Make space in the fridge!

18 judiciously crafted South American reds:

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Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Eugenio Egorov and Roger Jones tasted 112 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 64 Highly recommended

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting scores

112 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 64

Recommended 37

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, minimum 85% Cabernet Franc wines from single, designated vineyard sites anywhere in the southern hemisphere

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting

Expectations exceeded

There’s so much history associated with Cabernet Franc. The monks at Bourgueil abbey in the Loire valley began cultivating the grape in the 11th century. By the 18th century, it was renowned for producing exceptional wines in Bordeaux.

Fast forward to today and, following our tasting of 112 examples from the southern hemisphere, Eugenio Egorov could hardly contain his enthusiasm: ‘This tasting was a revelation; there were so many great wines.’

The statistics support his excitement. Ten wines were rated Outstanding and 64 wines Highly recommended – an impressive performance, especially for a variety that historically often played a supporting role in blends.

Roger Jones concurred: ‘In the past, Cabernet Franc was herbaceous, rustic and challenging. However, this new wave of styles from the southern hemisphere is exciting.’

Latin American renaissance

As illustrated by the number of submissions, South America has enthusiastically embraced the variety, with Argentina leading the way. In a country dominated by and best known for Malbec, Cabernet Franc is increasingly prized for its perfume, harmony and freshness.

‘Producers should follow the lead of those in New Zealand and South Africa, who travel frequently in search of knowledge,’ said Jones.

The results for the latter underline his point: of 13 entries, four were rated Outstanding and seven Highly recommended.

Cabernet Franc’s journey across the southern hemisphere has revealed its adaptability in the vineyard, versatility in the cellar and ability to make delicious, refreshing wines with complex, distinctive aromatic profiles.

The results of this tasting reveal that there has never been a better time to explore Cabernet Franc, a variety with a strong heritage and so much to offer.

What to eat with southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, by Fiona Beckett

When it comes to southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, it’s best to put out of your mind the idea that it’s a variety that produces light, crunchy, herbaceous reds.

Examples from countries such as South Africa and Argentina are far more typically full-bodied, Bordeaux-style wines to drink with classic red meat dishes – from grilled butterflied lamb to beef or venison Wellington. (The latter not least because mushrooms are a good match with it, particularly with older vintages.) They should also be able to handle a touch of spice, even a lamb curry.

Drink them when you’ve bought a beautiful piece of beef, save it for friends who enjoy a generous red, treat the family to a bottle when you’re cooking a classic Sunday roast or a homemade steak or ox cheek pie – the joy of these Cab Francs is just how enjoyable they are, and how affordable.

With their ripe fruit and supple tannins, they’re also good wines to bring out with a cheeseboard, even taking washed rind cheeses and blue cheeses in their stride. They’re definitely food-friendly.

See all notes and scores from the southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc tasting

The judges

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, educator and consultant working around the world. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors, qualifying in 2008 as the first Master of Wine from Brazil

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Smooth, creamy, with luscious black fruit, Bonarda is a kitten that just wants to be petted.

And there is no shortage of Bonarda kittens in Argentina: it’s the third-most planted grape variety in the country – the first is Malbec, the second Cereza (one of the historic Criolla varieties) – and one of Bonarda’s main, grower-appealing characteristics is its generous yields.

It’s especially the case in the warm, sunny vineyards of eastern Mendoza, where its many bunches can ripen to deliver that dose of creaminess and sweetness that are Bonarda’s trademark.

Scroll down to see Patricio Tapia’s pick of Argentina’s Bonardas

Opaque origins

Although Bonarda has been part of the Argentine wine landscape since the beginning of the last century, it wasn’t entirely clear where it came from or what it was.

Bodega Nieto Senetiner’s winemaker Roberto González (pictured, above), a Bonarda expert, explains: ‘In 2008, DNA studies were conducted and determined that Bonarda originates in Savoie and is [the same as] Douce Noir/Corbeau.’

González has been vinifying Bonarda at Nieto Senetiner since 1999 and is responsible for the first attempt at making a truly great Bonarda.

In 2000, the winery launched Edición Limitada (now called Las Tortugas Estate – see recommendations), a Bonarda that at the time was a giant in terms of ripeness and extraction, but has since been substantially refined and now even shows signs of freshness – a detail that’s uncommon in the grape.

Freshness in his Bonardas is what winemaker Alejandro Vigil, a partner in the El Enemigo winery, has been searching for.

Vigil has been studying Bonarda’s behaviour and experimenting with different soils in eastern Mendoza, all planted with very old Bonarda vines.

And from there, he’s developed a series of four single-vineyard bottlings that are among the best examples of the variety today.

‘The main challenge I face is getting the grapes to ripen without excessive alcohol, which would give them too much sweetness,’ says Vigil.

‘And I’ve found [better balance] in clay soils, which have better water retention. In sandy or very stony soils, what I get is peach jam.’

And nothing against peach jam, but what Vigil wants to demonstrate is that Bonarda can also be fresh and elegant; as is the case with one of these four single vineyards called El Mirador (see recommendations), which offers an expression of Bonarda with an unusual, firm tannic structure and freshness, rich in red fruits and herbs.

Reaching new heights

Sebastián Zuccardi, winemaker at the Zuccardi Uco Valley winery, has taken it a step further.

For Emma, the house’s top Bonarda (above), he uses vines planted in Altamira and San Pablo, cool, high-elevation areas where the variety should have problems. Does it?

‘The first versions of Emma came from the east, but in 2013 we decided to explore new areas in search of higher quality. And what we found was a different Bonarda,’ he explains.

‘The chalk in those soils gave them a firmer tannic structure, and the elevation gave them redder, fresher fruit. But in those cooler areas, like San Pablo, Bonarda takes much longer to ripen. In fact, it’s the last variety we harvest, and with low alcohol levels, sometimes at less than 12%.’

The new versions of Emma are Bonardas with sharp tannins, but they maintain that ripe, juicy, fruity side that is the hallmark of the grape and the reason why it’s so lovely to drink.

18 top-of-their-game Bonardas from Argentina:

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• Decanter’s Dream Destination: Entre Cielos, Mendoza, Argentina

Right in the heart of Vistalba’s wine route, Entre Cielos sits a stone’s throw from some of Argentina’s most revered wineries and offers the ideal place to unwind after a day of tasting.

Vineyard views, the towering Andes on the horizon, and imbibing a glass of chilled Torrontés by the serene pool are all part of Entre Cielos’ countryside charm.

Soak in a tub of Malbec

But its real distinction is the hammam – the first in Latin America and still the finest spa in Mendoza. If you want nothing more than to soothe tired muscles or revive parched skin after a day in the vineyards, the series of warm waters, steam chambers and local olive oil scrubs will leave you instantly renewed.

For those who like their wine inside and out, spa treatments use grape seeds as exfoliants – and even include a Malbec bath.

The hammam is an indulgence that fuses East and West, incorporating the rituals of Morocco with the ingredients and natural resources of Mendoza.

In September it was named Best Accommodation in Mendoza at the regional Great Wine Capitals Awards – the second time it has been crowned with that accolade – and it is easy to see why Entre Cielos’ appeal remains strong since first opening in 2009.

Try your hand at harvest

Mendoza’s wine regions are vast, so choosing the right base is essential. Entre Cielos offers the perfect balance: surrounded by vineyards, with several wineries within walking distance and the rest of Luján de Cuyo a short drive away. The Uco Valley is still about an hour by car, and Mendoza city under 30 minutes, but you’re also just minutes from leafy Chacras de Coria with its lively mix of restaurants and bars.

The estate’s vines are vinified by neighbouring Nieto Senetiner and contribute to the prized DOC Malbec – Luján de Cuyo is one of only two DOCs in Argentina. The vines weave their way through the property, inviting you to get up close and cosy; and each March guests can even join in the harvest and pick grapes alongside the team.

Sleep and sustenance

But for those who prefer to keep a cool distance from getting their hands dirty, perhaps the best way to appreciate the grapes is from above – while sleeping in one of the vineyard lofts. Alongside 15 rooms in the central hotel, which is set among the gardens and pool, nine lofts float above the vines on stilts. The Limited Edition Loft Suite even comes with a private jacuzzi above the vineyards, so you can soak in the stars above – and hear the rustle of the vines beneath (you might have to momentarily turn off the bubbles to hear the vines!).

At your doorstep lie some of Mendoza’s top tables, including four Michelin-star restaurants – Brindillas, Zonda, Riccitelli Bistró and Angélica Cocina – with two more not far away, as well as plenty of casual options.

Closer still is Entre Cielos’ own Nube restaurant, a sumptuous space serving fusion cuisine from local ingredients. Burrata with pistachio hummus; roasted sweetbreads with grape syrup and pickled pomegranate; and fillet steak with coffee and cauliflower purée are just a few of the imaginative culinary creations coming from Nube’s kitchen. At least once a week, the terrace comes alive with a traditional asado (barbecue) experience, where you’ll learn the secrets of Argentina’s cuts – and become savvy about deciphering your vacio from your entraña.

The wine list spans Argentina’s icons and off-the-beaten-path finds, with enough variety to keep you exploring for weeks. Paired with the glorious Mendoza sunshine and vineyard views, it’s all too easy to linger at Entre Cielos a little longer.

For further information, see the Entre Cielos website.

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Amanda Barnes MW, Florencia Gomez and Benjamin Gubbins tasted 150 wines, with 17 Outstanding and 99 Highly recommended

South American premium white: Panel tasting scores

150 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 17

Highly recommended 99

Recommended 31

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were requested to submit their dry white wines from any South American country and region, including all Geographical Indications, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$20. Skin-fermented wines from white varieties were also welcome.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our South American premium white panel tasting

While South America is still best known for its reds, this tasting proved just how exceptional the continent’s white wines have become.

What made the tasting so exciting was its wide scope, highlighting the remarkable diversity of styles, varieties and terroirs shaping the continent’s white wine scene.

Of the 17 Outstanding wines, seven were Chardonnay, reflecting growing refinement in the variety. As Flor Gomez noted, the best examples were ‘modern, without ever lapsing into excess’.

Another standout category was Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, which scooped several top scores. ‘They were a real revelation,’ said Benjamin Gubbins, ‘with outstanding quality and character.’

White blends with Rhône and Criolla varieties also shone, as did several Uruguayan Albariños, which Gomez described as ‘full of varietal precision and charm, deserving of a spot on any serious seafood restaurant’s list’.

Beyond the varietal and regional spread, the tasting reflected impressive creativity in the cellar. More than a dozen of the wines showed some flor influence (biological ageing under a surface layer of yeasts), lending a saline edge and linear drive – a quality I think particularly benefits these sunny climates.

Others embraced long ageing in oak foudres or clay amphora. ‘It was a dynamic, wildly enjoyable flight that showed technical mastery and adventurous spirit,’ added Gomez.

Gubbins agreed, noting the relative absence of duds: ‘My overall impression was one of consistent quality and refinement – and no shortage of creativity!’

We were delighted by the combination of classics and wines with individuality and flair. There was not only breathtaking diversity, but also remarkable value for money.

As the high scores reflect, South America’s premium whites are definitely worth getting excited about.

What to eat with South American white wines, by Fiona Beckett

So many different styles of wine scored highly in this tasting that it’s impossible to suggest matches for them all, so let’s take a look at some of the less common ones.

Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon blends, for instance, might well be the ones to turn to with Peruvian-inspired cooking, which often blends Japanese and other Asian influences with local seafood and other indigenous ingredients.

Scallops would be a particularly good pairing. Albariño is also a reliable go-to with seafood (try it with moqueca, Brazil’s iconic seafood stew), while aromatic Torrontés comes in useful with ceviche (better, typically, than with citrussy whites such as Sauvignon, which can clash with the citrus in the marinade).

Wines that exhibit some flor influence generally develop an umami character that works well with Japanese food, while amphora-aged and other skin-contact wines could well be ones to sip with empanadas.

There’s so much creativity in these wines, you can afford to be experimental with the pairings.

See notes and scores for more high-scoring wines from our South American premium white tasting

South American premium white panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes MW is a wine writer, presenter and consultant. Author of the awarded South America Wine Guide (£35 southamericawineguide.com), she is a regular Decanter contributor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile

Florencia Gomez is the founder of London-based wine brand marketing agency Grand Crew Studio. A qualified and internationally experienced winemaker, she is also a DWWA judge across South American categories

Benjamin Gubbins is general manager at Vagabond Wines and heads its WSET education programmes in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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Nothing marks the end of summer like the school’s re-opening and the start of the annual September releases campaign.

This is the second tranche of international releases, or ‘Hors Bordeaux’, following the 50+ wines launched by négociants in March.

SCORE TABLE: All the Place de Bordeaux September releasesScroll down for Georgie’s ‘ultimate autumn case’

It’s no secret that the fine wine market is struggling at the moment, amid a backdrop of lingering US tariffs, a subdued Chinese market, and broader economic headwinds.

However, the 2025 campaign underscores the resilience, perseverance and prestige of La Place delivering a crafted – and increased – number of fine wines from around the world.

The autumn releases also present a joyous and fascinating moment to check in on both new and old vintages from some of the world’s most iconic and reputable estates. And this year’s cohort is a bounty of beautiful wines waiting to be explored.

The campaign, that technically kicked off on 28 August with Domaine de Baronarques, will run through to the end of September (with some extensions into October) and features more than 130 wines from 12 countries including: Italy, Spain, the US, Germany, Chile, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Hungary, South Africa and France.

The calendar of releases takes on a clearer structure than in previous years with the coming days seeing the release of starry names like Opus One (1 September), Masseto today (2 September), Almaviva (3 September), Solaia (4 September), and Penfolds Grange (8 September), alongside Bordeaux gems such as the historic re-releases from Latour (2012) and Palmer (2015).

The releases will be split by region giving each country the limelight – Australia, Spain, Italy, US, France then South America – with a dedicated Riesling week in October like last year.

New and exciting wines

Akin to last year’s flurry of German Rieslings entering La Place, this year is the first time wines from the Loire Valley will be included alongside other French bottlings. It’s an exciting development that seeks to not only present the best of France all in one accessible place but also offer more white wines satisfying current market trends and demand.

The number of wines due to be released may also give way to a potential dedicated ‘Loire week’ within the campaign.

Jean-Quentin Prats, CEO of Joanne Rare Wines which manages more than 100 ‘Hors Bordeaux’ wines, captures this strategy: ‘We want to focus on establishing what we already have however if there was one area we could increase, it was white.’

Indeed there are five new white wines on offer this autumn. ‘[There is an] increase in French whites, and one area is the Loire Valley where you have very high-quality products, old vines on amazing soils and great know-how. And there is a demand in the market for that,’ Prats added.

Alongside the Loire wines including; Domaine Delaporte (three cuvées from Sancerre), Domaine Sébastian Brunet (old-vine Chenin in Vouvray) and Luneau-Papin (biodynamic wine from Muscadet), are new wines from Adega Algueira (Cornamuse Godello from Ribeira Sacra), a sublime Chardonnay from Zuccardi (Gualtallary), the excellent House of Arras Late Disgorged Grand Vintage 2008 (Tasmania), an 18-year-old Riesling from Jim Barry (Clare Valley) and a red and white from Sonoma’s Flowers Winery.

Despite global challenges – declining wine consumption, tariff-driven price hikes, and shifting demand – La Place remains a dynamic stage for producers’ unwavering commitment to excellence and the increase in wines showcases that.

This campaign is a heartening reminder of the resilience of wineries and merchants striving to spotlight world-class wines (at a mixture of price points), in a turbulent market.

My highlights

Australia

There are several superlative wines in the mix this year starting with the 100-point Cloudburst Chardonnay from the 2023 vintage. It was tasted at the end of a 10-year-vertical, which will be coming to Decanter Premium this month, and showcases the very best of what owner and winemaker Will Berliner can achieve with his vineyard-come-garden. A sublime wine.

More white Australia gems come in the form of aged Tasmania sparkling House of Arras 2008 which was utterly delightful, Giaconda’s Chardonnay is another knockout by winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner and Jim Barry’s Florita Riesling 2015 is well worth seeking out.

For the reds, Penfolds Grange is absolutely top class as is Jim Barry’s The Armagh – exceptionally captivating and great quality.

Argentina

I completely fell in love with Sebastian Zuccardi’s Finca Canal Uco stopping just short of 100-points. It’s an amazingly fresh and focussed Malbec from high-altitude vineyards in Paraje Altamira. I’ve met Sebastian a few times in Bordeaux to taste through his ever-expanding range of wines and I adore his approach and sensitivity to the cuvées he creates.

The accolades continue for Argentina with a brilliant Cheval des Andes and fabulous Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard.

Austria

How lucky we are that Gerhard Kracher’s wines are now on the Place de Bordeaux. It’s a little tricky keeping up with the dozen or so Trockenbeerenauslese cuvées he produces (among lots of others) each year of which a selection are chosen to present to La Place.

This year there are five wines – numbered in order of sweetness – the denser a wine, the higher the number. If you haven’t tried these wines before don’t hesitate. They’re all excellent with numbers two, three and five standouts among the impressive range.

Chile

Ever since I visited Chile – and all of the La Place producers bar Vik in 2022 – I’ve been captivated by what’s being produced there.

Seeing the magnificent vineyard vistas and getting to know the viticulture and terroir helped me understand the efforts that are going on in the country to create world-class wines.

Seña this year is absolutely incredible – a must-buy if you can, but Almaviva and Santa Rita are also excellent. I also love the work Sebastian Labbé is doing at Viña Santa Rita wtih Casa Real. Such attention to detail is showcased in the wines.

France

The French contingent is strong and varied this year with everything from Champagne to Burgundy to Bordeaux as well as the Loire Valley providing plenty of enjoyment and value – particularly for two first timers.

Cuvée Eugenie, the Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Lebrun delights with richness and juiciness while the benchmark producer Domaine Luneau-Papin, with ninth generation Pierre-Marie and daughter-in-law Marie at the helm, have produced a lovely and very drinkable biodynamic Gula Ana 2023 for its first outing on La Place.

There are eight Champagnes being released this month spanning six different vintages giving fizz lovers plenty to get stuck into.

My personal favourite was Philipponnat’s mature Clos des Goisses 2000 which is in its peak drinking window, but Leclerc Briant’s organic Château d’Avize 2015 is also captivating, with amazing acidity.

Clos Lanson’s 2011 is accessible and easy to drink and sits well within the list of back vintages, all tasted together in July (2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007 and 2006). The vertical will be written up in a dedicated article on Decanter Premium later this month.

In Bordeaux, the new vintage of Château Cheval Blanc’s Le Petit Cheval Blanc is as good as it’s ever produced – even more evident after tasting back vintages to 2018 – another tasting that will appear on Decanter this month.

Always anticipated, Château d’Yquem’s off-dry ‘Y’ 2023 is stunning as is Château Rieussec’s 2023 vintage. Bordeaux’s sweet wines might not always get the limelight – and these are just two of the varied options coming from the lauded appellation – but it’s a great reminder of the enjoyment that these wines can bring whether you drink them young or old.

I tasted a 1975 – 50-year-old Rieussec at the estate last week and it was utterly delicious.

I have yet to taste Château Palmer’s 10-year-on release or Château Latour’s 2012.

Château d’Aussieres, the Languedoc estate from Lafite Rothschild, is packed full of flavour but silky and smooth with lots to like. Great drinkability and value.

Germany

I missed Germany entry onto La Place last year as I had just given birth, but there are some stunning wines that deserve greater visibility and appreciation.

Sweet, or even off-dry, wines don’t always have the best reputation, and can often be a hard sell ,but there’s something magical when sweetness and richness meet racy acidity, energy and vibrancy like several do in the list.

Heavyweights Ernst Loosen, Schloss Johannisberg, Steinmetz and Domäne Serrig are all represented this autumn.

I loved Ernie’s Riesling Auslese and Domäne Serrig’s Grosse Lage – both excellent quality and with interesting, historical stories behind them. Seek them out.

Italy

Most of the Italian wines were tasted by both myself and Decanter’s Italy editor James Button who came to Bordeaux for the tasting.

Standouts come in the form of Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta and Colore, both brilliant and worth getting hold of.

Antinori’s Solaia and Masseto’s grand vin deliver once again, both with 98 points and one of my favourite wines ever Allegrini’s Fieramonte is un-put-down-able.

I also tasted the new trio of impressive Caiarossa wines which offer great value as well as a mini-vertical of Gianni Mazzei’s Concerto which was extremely impressive. The new vintage doesn’t quite reach the heights of last year but there’s a wonderful signature to this wine with extreme drinkability.

Spain

Telmo Rodriguez’s Yjar (Rioja) and Matallana from Ribera del Duero are both worth trying to get hold of, as is the new complex and enjoyable wine from Adega Algueira – Cornamuse from Ribeira Sacra.

Despite the challengingly hot conditions, CVNE has produced a concentrated but balanced and finessed Real de Asúa Carromaza 2022.

USA

North American wines make up the bulk of the releases, many from the hot and dry 2022 vintage of which several were covered by Jonathan Cristaldi in his Napa Valley vintage 2022 report.

Highlights for me include the ever-brilliant Dalla Valle Vineyards Maya 2022 and an exceptional Quintessa 2022.

I also loved Luc Morlet’s slightly older 2018 vintage of Coeur de Vallée Cabernet Sauvignon and all three Verité wines from Sonoma.

The final La Place vertical to accompany this report will come in the form of 10 vintages of Inglenook’s Rubicon. I was lucky enough to attend a masterclass with winemaker Philippe Bascaules in July where we tasted vintages back to 2013.

This wine is really hitting its stride with a wonderful energetic quality to the wine despite the tough conditions.

Where value and interest lie

In a market favouring affordability, look to under £40 releases from Spain (Dolio) and southern Italy for everyday luxury as well as some of the German Rieslings which have incredible quality to price ratios. The wines from the Loire and Languedoc also provide excellent value.

Given the nature and prestige of some of these wines, prices can be on the very high side with the most expensive likely to top US$400-500. That said, if money were no object these would be my top 12 picks.

Which wines should you buy? My ultimate case of 12:

Ordered by style and score; sparkling, white, red, sweet.

House of Arras E.J. Carr 2008 (97-points): Vibrant Tasmanian fizz.

Philipponnat, Clos de Goisses LV Extra Brut 2000 (98-points): Mature and mouthwatering.

Cloudburst, Chardonnay 2023 (100-points): Sublime, vibrant, and complex.

Château d’Yquem, Ygrek 2023 (96-points): Fresh, succulent and moreish

Bibi Graetz, Colore 2023 (99-points): Nuanced and spectacular.

Jim Barry, The Armagh Shiraz 2022 (99-points): Bottled happiness.

Seña 2023 (99-points): Incredible Bordeaux-style blend.

Quintessa 2022 (99-points): Classy and energetic.

Zuccardi, Finca Canal Uco 2022 (99-points): Fresh, focused Malbec.

Dalla Valle Vineyards, Maya 2022 (98-points): Seductive and bold.

Kracher, Nummer 3 TBA 2022 (98-points): Exotic and zingy.

Dr Loosen, Riesling Auslese 2019 (98-points): Dense yet invigorating.

History of the releases

Beginning as a niche extension to Bordeaux’s en primeur system, the twice yearly ‘Hors Bordeaux’ releases have grown into a global fine wine powerhouse providing international producers access to premium markets via the region’s efficient distribution network.

Collectors can secure allocations at ex-cellar prices, often with ageing potential that drives secondary market value. These releases, many of which are actually back vintages, will test the market sentiment post a lacklustre Bordeaux 2024 en primeur campaign that failed to ignite serious enthusiasm despite some heavy discounts on 2023 release prices.

Generally a good indicator of enthusiasm is the appeal for Opus on the 1st of the month, this year releasing at a recommended UK onward selling price of £235 (8% down on the 2021 / 6% down on the 2019 according to Wine Lister.

It comes to the market below all recent back vintages. The consulting, data and analytics company said: ‘As one of September’s perennial best sellers, if any release has a chance of seeing demand in this difficult market, it’s Opus One.’

One courtier noted: ‘Everyone is waiting to see what the release prices for Opus and Almaviva will be – if they’re good for the market and people buy it will create a dynamic demand’.

It’s not just about price however, similar to the Bordeaux 2024s. There will be brands who have to decrease and some who will hold firm from strategy or lack of increase over the years. Let’s hope there’s some rebounding for this collection of wines.

Yet to be tasted

• Pym Rae, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2021
• Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, 2022
• Quintessa, Illumination, Sonoma County, 2024
• Flowers, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2023
• Château Palmer, Margaux 3éme Grand Cru Classe, 2015
• Château Latour, 1er Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 2012

Additional tasting notes for this report were done by Tina Gellie, James Button, Ines Salpico, Jonathan Cristaldi. In some instances there may be two tasting notes.

SCORE TABLE: All the Place de Bordeaux September releases:

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Covering the austral section of South America, spanning the southernmost areas of Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is a region of extreme, diverse landscapes.

Strong winds and wide diurnal temperature ranges make it a challenging yet appealing place for viticulture – it’s certainly not for the faint of heart.

The region’s breathtaking terroirs yield both singular expressions of the countries’ more popular grapes and unlikely South American iterations of varieties mostly associated with classic cold-climate regions.

Without the sheltering effect of the Andes mountains, strong winds blow unhindered. Meanwhile, high latitudes expose the vines to intense UV radiation throughout the growing season’s long days.

These conditions tease grapes into producing thicker skins while developing diverse aromatic compounds, and the bitterly cold nights help to preserve acidity.

Put it all together and you have a winemaker’s dream – for those willing to embrace the challenge.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 12 polished wines from rugged Patagonia

Precocious complexity

Due to its trying natural conditions, as well as its remoteness, Patagonia is a geography in which viticulture at scale isn’t easily profitable – or, in some areas, even possible.

Hence the region draws winemakers with an appetite for the unique, the unusual and the hard-won.

The singular, world-class wines the region produces have made it one of South America’s most alluring.

But the attention it draws is in inverse proportion to its area under vine, representing less than 2% of Argentina’s vineyards (data for Chilean Patagonia aren’t available).

‘Many ask me whether I see a great future for Patagonia wines. My reply is: no,’ says Felipe Tosso, who, as chief winemaker at Ventisquero, has led the inception of Kosten, the Chilean group’s foray into Patagonia and, at 46.3°S, the world’s southernmost vineyard (at Chile Chico on the southern shore of Lake General Carrera, and right next to the border with Argentina).

‘There is a tiny – but fantastic – future: outstanding wines from small projects. In such dramatic terroir, the vines achieve a superior potential, even at a young age.’

Juan Pablo Murgia, of Otronia, concurs: ‘We see the balance of old vines in young plants. The way vines adapt to the Patagonian conditions is incredible.’

Preserving memory

Most of Patagonia’s vineyards are located in the Argentine provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén with 3,341ha split between the two. Further south, over and beyond the 45th parallel, the province of Chubut accounts for a mere 117ha.

Extreme viticulture notwithstanding, some of the biggest challenges of making wine in Patagonia are operational.

Far away from the main viticultural and commercial hubs, it’s not easy to consolidate resources or find skilled staff.

Many projects are, therefore, intriguing offshoots of established brands based in better-known regions – wines that reflect a desire to explore other realms of possibility, articulate a different oenologic vocabulary and acknowledge a more diverse past… and future.

For Matías Riccitelli, the maverick winemaker best known for his namesake project in Mendoza’s Luján de Cuyo, making wine in Patagonia emerged as a way to harness a unique and overlooked ‘climatic and patrimonial potential’.

As Mendoza established itself as Argentina’s wine-producing core and settlers stopped producing wine for self-consumption, the vineyards of northern Patagonia lost their appeal, resulting in a patchwork of old, ungrafted plots of myriad varieties.

Riccitelli sees his Patagonian range as part of an effort to preserve an important part of South American wine heritage, as well as a unique genetic diversity: ‘We have inimitable terroirs with a singular climate and incredible clonal diversity of different varieties (and also field blends) with a long – sometimes forgotten – history here. They produce wines with a particular expressiveness.’

Beyond known limits

Further south, in Chubut and Chilean Patagonia, winemakers are pushing the known limits of viticulture, planting in areas never before considered suitable for vines.

Murgia (pictured, above), head winemaker at Mendoza’s Bodega Argento, was forced to question his experience and learnings when leading the establishment of Otronia, a sibling project in Sarmiento, Chubut, at 45.6°S, more than 1,100km south of Patagonia’s northern edge.

‘I had to learn a new type of viticulture – of cold and winds,’ he says.

Since its first commercial vintage in 2017, Otronia has been consistently producing award-winning wines. Murgia unassumingly attributes the quality of the wines to the outstanding, if relatively meagre, fruit Patagonia yields.

‘Patagonia is synonymous with beauty and singularity, which translate into the unique character of the wines,’ he says.

‘This, along with the many challenges of wine production [in the region], means that there’s little sense producing anything but top wines.’

Tosso echoes this feeling and admits that succeeding in Patagonia immediately puts winemakers in a different league.

‘Making wine in such challenging conditions is hard and expensive. To see our efforts validated by the quality of the wines feels like a great achievement,’ he concludes.

Tosso likewise stresses the focus and self-assurance needed to grow grapes in Patagonia.

While he can plan for harvest with a degree of comfort for other Ventisquero wines, at Kosten, experience and planning only go so far: with frost always imminent, decisions need to be made quickly and determinedly – and often remotely.

Patagonia’s wines might be hard-won for producers and consumers alike, but, like the region’s landscapes, they afford experiences that are worth the willingness to embark on an unexpected, memorable journey.

Taste of the wild: A fascinating 12 from Patagonia

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In the rugged, windswept plains of Patagonia, where vineyards cling to the banks of the snaking Río Negro, an unlikely partnership has flourished.

Jean-Marc Roulot, a sixth-generation vigneron from Meursault in Burgundy, and Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, grandson of the visionary behind Tuscany’s legendary Sassicaia, came together in Argentina to craft world-class Chardonnay.

Their collaboration, rooted in friendship and a shared sense of adventure, blends centuries of tradition with a bold leap into the unknown.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of five exquisite Bodega Chacra Chardonnays

While their family legacies precede them – the mastery of Burgundy whites passed down to Jean-Marc and Piero’s inheritance of Tuscan innovation – this partnership brings a surprising twist: a commitment to making some of the world’s finest Chardonnay in the uncharted terroir of southern Argentina.

They make a compelling duo. Piero is an extrovert, brimming with Italian charisma and charm, while Jean-Marc is thoughtful and introspective, his responses shaped by decades of careful observation as a renowned stage and screen actor.

Yet, their differences complement one another, united by a shared hunger for discovery and an unwavering pursuit of perfection.

The story of how these two wine-world titans found themselves in Patagonia is as captivating as the wines themselves.

Forging a new friendship

Piero’s and Jean-Marc’s paths first crossed in the early 2000s. At the time, Piero was living in New York, immersed in its vibrant wine scene.

Having befriended many of the top sommeliers, he often joined them on buying trips to Burgundy. By then, Jean-Marc had already solidified his reputation as one of Burgundy’s most celebrated vignerons.

After taking over Domaine Roulot in 1989 following his father’s untimely death, he transformed it into one of Meursault’s most prestigious estates, renowned for its pure, expressive Chardonnays.

Unsurprisingly, Roulot’s wines were high on the wishlists of US sommeliers, and it wasn’t long before Piero and Jean-Marc formed a bond.

‘We became friends because of our shared family wine heritage and, of course, the common language,’ recalls Piero, a polyglot fluent in four languages.

While Jean-Marc was deeply rooted in Burgundy’s storied vineyards, Piero was forging a very different path. Eschewing the familiar comforts of Tuscany, he ventured to Patagonia, where he acquired an abandoned estate in the Río Negro valley.

It was a daring move, reviving old Pinot Noir vines in one of the world’s most remote winemaking regions – a gamble that didn’t go unnoticed by Jean-Marc.

‘When I tasted Piero’s Pinot Noir from Patagonia, I could see he was doing the opposite of what I expected from a Pinot Noir from South America,’ says Jean-Marc. ‘I trusted his focus from the start.’

See Amanda Barnes MW’s notes and scores for Bodega Chakra’s latest-release Pinot Noirs

A proposition

Their friendship took an unexpected turn over a wine-fuelled dinner with friends. When Piero casually mentioned his desire to produce Chardonnay at Chacra, Jean-Marc jokingly replied, ‘Why don’t you ask me?’

What began as a quip quickly became a serious proposition, spurred on by mutual friends encouraging them both to take the leap.

‘I wasn’t ready,’ Piero admits. ‘It was one thing having Jean-Marc visit Sassicaia, an already illustrious vineyard, but the idea of bringing someone of his calibre to Chacra was daunting. I felt an enormous responsibility. Were we good enough?’

Jean-Marc, on the other hand, was ready. Having already broken conventions in Burgundy, he was eager for a new challenge. Though deeply rooted in Meursault, he had begun to entertain the idea of making wine beyond his estate.

Offers from other regions, including Mâcon, had come his way, but none truly captured his imagination.

‘To make wine in Mâcon wasn’t an adventure – of course it would have been different, but it was too close to home. Patagonia, on the other hand, was something completely different. It was an adventure.’

By 2016, the project was underway. Chardonnay was grafted onto old Merlot rootstocks at the Mainqué estate and Jean-Marc officially joined the partnership. The following year, Bodega Chacra had its first vintage of Chardonnay.

On the edge of the world

The distance between Meursault and Mainqué spans 11,926km – and the two are worlds apart in winemaking realities.

Mainqué, nestled in the Río Negro valley, boasts a unique terroir of old vines and cool desert winds, offering an environment as untamed as it is promising for fine Chardonnay. But Patagonia’s isolation presents undeniable challenges.

‘In Beaune, you have everything you need at your fingertips,’ Jean-Marc notes. ‘In Mainqué, you have nothing – if the press breaks, the harvest stops.’

This reality became painfully clear during their first harvest together when the electricity cut out, bringing everything to a standstill. For Jean-Marc, who places meticulous importance on press techniques, it was nothing short of catastrophic.

‘He asked me when it was coming back. I said, “I have no idea, we just have to wait!”,’ Piero recalls with a nervous laugh. By the next harvest, Piero had a generator waiting for Jean-Marc’s arrival – a precaution that has since expanded to three generators on the estate.

Learning curve

It has been a learning curve for both winemakers, but one they’ve embraced as a journey of discovery, driven by their shared commitment to organic viticulture and a deep respect for the land.

‘Every year, we change something – brick by brick,’ Jean-Marc reflects, clearly relishing the challenge. ‘I think it takes at least 10 vintages to become comfortable. I couldn’t just copy and paste my Chardonnay programme from Burgundy, but with time, I have felt more confident with how to approach this terroir’s wines.’

Now, eight vintages in, the wines reflect Jean-Marc’s growing confidence in Patagonia, where he spends a month each year working closely with Piero and the team.

The Mainqué range offers vibrant, approachable wines with tangy salinity and verve, balanced with appealing, fresh fruit that makes them enjoyable now.

The Chacra line, on the other hand, is more complex, with powerful length and textural layers that hint at its ageing potential, teasing you for opening the bottle too soon.

The precision and purity already in the bottle are a remarkable testament to the evolving synergy between the winemakers.

A human adventure

For Piero, having Jean-Marc’s experienced palate at Chacra is invaluable. ‘The feedback he provides is irreplaceable,’ Piero says.

For Jean-Marc, Chacra has offered something equally profound – it has rekindled a connection to nature that he feels that Burgundy has lost. ‘In Chacra, nature is still working – you feel it,’ he says. ‘The light, the air, the animals. It’s a reminder of what we once had in Meursault. We need to learn to reconnect.’

The wines, too, reflect this special connection that both Jean-Marc and Piero feel with the rugged landscapes of Patagonia and with each other.

‘It’s rare to find a peer you can work with in this way,’ Piero reflects. ‘This partnership is about trust, friendship and laughter – a lot of laughter. It’s about the enrichment that comes from truly working together.’

Their unexpected partnership proves that great wine is not only a product of the land – it’s the result of shared dreams, respect and a touch of adventure. As Jean-Marc puts it, ‘It’s not just about the wine. It’s about the human adventure behind it.’

Patagonian partnership: The Chacra style in five Chardonnays

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The Michelin constellation shines ever more brightly in Argentina following the release of the country’s second report. The gastronomy guide, which included 25 new entries across categories – three new flagship stars, three Bib Gourmands, three green stars and 16 recommended – confirmed that Buenos Aires and Mendoza, the two regions covered by the guide, take sustainability and eco-responsibility seriously. The up-and-coming generation of chefs and sommeliers also proved their mettle.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guide, noted the inspectors had been enchanted by the local gastronomy scene. ‘They continue to discover that Argentina emphasises each establishment’s personality, signalling great professionalism, growing concern for eco-responsibility and renewing the value of Argentina’s best products,’ he said.

Excellence consolidated

The Michelin Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2025 was unveiled at an event held at Susana Balbo Wines, in Perdriel, Mendoza. A total of 80 venues – 56 in Buenos Aires and 24 in Mendoza – made the cut, boosted by the exciting line up of new entries.

All of the six restaurants awarded one Michelin star in 2024 breathed a sigh of relief s their names were announced again.

They were joined by three new one-starred establishments.

Known for its oyster bar and seafood-driven menu, Crizia, the Buenos Aires restaurant led by husband-and-wife team Gabriel Oggero and Geraldine Gastaldo, followed up 2024’s green star with a red one – a fortunate recognition as the venue celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

Oggero’s former head chef Juan Ventureyra attained the same honours in Mendoza at Riccitelli Bistró, at Matias Riccitelli Wines, in Las Compuertas.

Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, led by dynamic young duo Josefina Diana and Juan Manuel Feijoo, also upped its game with its own set of green and red stars. Alongside Casa Vigil, which also falls under the Catena umbrella, Angélica Cocina Maestra has taken the renowned winery’s haul to four stars, the most of any group.

The full list list of one-starred restaurants in Argentina is now as follows:

• Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, Mendoza
• Azafrán, Mendoza
• Brindillas, Mendoza
• Casa Vigil at Bodega El Enemigo, Mendoza
• Crizia, Buenos Aires
• Parrilla Don Julio, Buenos Aires
• Riccitelli Bistró, Mendoza
• Trescha, Buenos Aires
• Zonda Cocina de Paisaje at Bodega Lagarde, Mendoza

Lonely at the top

Meanwhile, Aramburu, located in Buenos Aire’s Recoleta neighbourhood, renewed its lonely two-star status. Chef Gonzalo Aramburu’s 18-course tasting experience impressed inspectors again with a combination of technical ability, dramatic presentation and outstanding ingredients.

Young age, mature talent

In the individual categories, young talent cleaned up and confirmed a bright future for the Argentine wine & dine scene. Nicolás Tykocki of Ácido was, at the tender age of 27, named Best Young Chef for his daring and skilful approach, merging international influences, including Korean, Lebanese, Turkish, Chinese and Spanish.

The sommelier duo Elena Cabrera and Leonel Castro Ortiz jointly received the Michelin Sommelier award for their enthusiastic work at one-star Trescha, underscoring Chef Tomás Treschanski’s ‘test kitchen’ philosophy..

Capital value

The coveted ‘great value’ Bib Gourmand nods continue to elude Mendoza establishments and were solely awarded in Buenos Aires. With the addition of Ácido, Ajo Negro and MN Santa Inés, the capital’s total Big Gourmand roster rose to 10.

MN Santa Inés, led by chef Jazmín Marturet, was a welcome surprise. Operating out of a former industrial bakery, in Buenos Aires’ offbeat Paternal neighbourhood, that Maruret renovated with her father, MN Santa Inés offering was singled out by inspectors ‘for its international and eclectic flavours’.

16 other venues, including a host of 2024 openings, were added to the guide’s ‘selected restaurants’ list. These include Ultramarinos, in a second Michlin nod for chef Maxi Rossi of Picarón fame; Michel Rolland Grill & Wine, a concept built around the cellar and tasted of the renowned oenology consultant; La Vid at Bodega Norton; and Martino Wines, at the eponymous winery in Mendoza. Osadía de Crear at Susana Balbo Wines added a green star to its guide entry.

The growth and diversity of this year’s edition attests to the vibrancy and evolution of the Argentine hospitality industry, consolidating its status – alongside fierce competition from some of its neighbours – as a culinary powerhouse.

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

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Argentina’s winemaking story is one of reinvention, passion and extraordinary diversity. While Malbec remains its global flagship, Argentina’s varied terroirs, high-elevation vineyards and innovative producers offer wines that push the boundaries of excellence.

Cabernet Franc, once an understated variety, now commands the spotlight in Argentina’s higher regions. The expressive aromas and poised structure of Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 top-50 Best in Show winner Altaluvia, below, exemplify the variety’s potential to redefine elegance. ‘Argentina is showing this grape like no other country does,’ says renowned sommelier and DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina, Paz Levinson.

Reds such as Bemberg’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Domaine Bousquet’s Organic Cabernet Sauvignon further highlight Argentina’s ability to craft world-class alternatives to Malbec.

Scroll down to discover DWWA 2024 awarded wines from Argentina

Argentina’s whites are equally compelling. Torrontés, with its heady floral aromas, continues to intrigue, while Chardonnay from elevated regions such as Gualtallary delivers balanced minerality.

Bemberg’s Platinum-winning El Tomillo Chardonnay 2021 is a mouthwatering example. Characteristic styles complete Argentina’s repertoire. Bonarda offers juicy charm, as seen in Colomé’s Lote Especial Bonarda 2023, while Patagonia’s cool-climate blends, such as Otronia’s Corte de Blancas 2021, add a fresh dimension.

‘Argentina is a land of diversity,’ Levinson concludes. Whether exploring Cabernet Franc, Bonarda or high-elevation Chardonnay, Argentina’s wines promise an adventure into terroir, creativity and boundless potential.

Discover DWWA-rated favourites beyond Malbec below, with more to be discovered at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Altaluvia, Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2019

Best in Show, 97 points

£30.95 The Vine Whisperer

This is the third Argentinian Cabernet Franc to win a DWWA Best in Show award, underscoring how well suited this variety can be for high-elevation Andean viticulture. It’s dark and warmly scented with loganberry and plum. Balanced and poised, with the fruit deft and singing – very much a tenor rather than a bass. More soft loganberry dominates the palate, with both tannins and acids in supportive rather than dominant roles. Alcohol 14.9%

Whites

Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No1 El Tomillo Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Platinum, 97 points

POA £ Top Selection

Striking Gualtallary character of luminous pear, apple and lime fruit cascading over a flinty, wet-stone mineral core. Alert and intense with a fine bead of succulent acidity and a very long, stylish finish. Alc 13.5%

Alta-Yarí, Gran Torrontés, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Gold, 95 points

bodegaaltayari.com

Oozing glorious tropical fruit and pomelo citrus with an undertow of honeyed florals that persist and entwine around the bustling acidity and creamy texture. Energetic and long. Alc 13.5%

Altaluvia, Riesling, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Gold, 95 points

£30.95 The Vine Whisperer

A delightful wealth of lime curd, blossom and honeyed white fruit bathed in a cleansing mineral freshness which steers toward a sizzling sea salt finish. Alc 13.3%

Otronia, 45 Rugientes Corte de Blancas, Sarmiento, Chubut, Patagonia 2021

Gold, 95 points

£32.99 92 or More, Liberty Wines

An exciting blend showing a breathtaking array of white blossom, ginger and white pepper with an enticing oiliness tempered by the pulsating acidity. Youthful and joyous. Alc 13%

Trapiche, Terroir Series Finca El Tomillo Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2022

Silver, 94 points

POA £ Enotria&Coe

Lovely lavender on the nose, some baking spices and appealing oak over generous pineapple and lime aromas. Round and fresh. Alc 14%

Reds

Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No19 Las Mercedes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cafayate, Salta 2019

Platinum, 97 points

POA £ Top Selection

Sultry tones of pencil shaving, liquorice and crushed black pepper are engulfed by rapturous strawberry, blueberry and blackcurrant swirling across the plush tannins, fine acidity and silky texture. Softly evolved and remarkable. Alc 14%

Etchart, Single Vineyard Petit Verdot, Cafayate, Salta 2023

Gold, 96 points

bodegasetchart.com

Earthy, peppery notes enhanced by mesmerising ripe red fruits alongside appetising acidity and polished tannins, providing a unique fluidity and depth. Long and sustained. Alc 14%

Domaine Bousquet, Ameri Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Gold, 95 points

POA £ Vintage Roots

Dense, tightly packed with quintessential blackcurrant, cherry and plum atop a lavish spectrum of smoky oak and tingling espresso. Fleshy and vivacious with sleek tannins. Alc 14.5%

Trivento, Golden Reserve Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022

Gold, 95 points

£16 Concha y Toro UK

Varietal typicity with wonderful high-elevation concentration. Expressive lavender and thyme aromatics meld with red fruits and the granular tannic core keeps things fresh. Alc 14.5%

Finca Sophenia, Altosur Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Silver, 94 points

£13.50-£13.99 Highbury Vintners, JN Wine, The Vintage Wine Merchants Antrim

Herbal nose with notes of blue fruit, forest floor, black tea leaves and black pepper. Muscular on the palate with tense tannins. Alc 14%

Luigi Bosca, De Sangre Red Blend, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2022

Silver, 94 points

luigibosca.com

Elegant and expressive with aromas of spices and tobacco leaves, full of ripe fruit. Very friendly structure, long and rich. Alc 14.3%

Colomé, Lote Especial Bonarda, Calchaquíes, Salta 2023

Silver, 93 points

£24.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Liberty Wines, NY Wines, Shelved Wine

Generous jammy fruit nuances on the nose, concentrated. Appealing, fine tannins, with fresh acidity supporting the fruit. Alc 14.5%

Kaiken, Obertura Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021

Silver, 93 points

£34.99 (2020) Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Dé Wine Co, Liberty Wines, North & South, Simpy Wines Direct, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm, Winedirect

Herbaceous nuances on the nose with well judged spicy oak and tobacco notes. Peppery and broad palate, with a long finish. Alc 14.5%

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

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Few winemakers have the opportunity to be pioneers in new regions and fewer still in regions of extreme terroirs, where textbook viticulture doesn’t apply. Perhaps none see such groundbreaking efforts yield world-class wines in less than a decade.

However, all of this is true of Juan Pablo Murgia, who, as head winemaker of the Avinea group, led the inception of its limit-defying Otronia project in Argentine Patagonia (see below).

But Murgia’s trajectory has been defined foremost by consistency and commitment rather than the exceptional opportunities he’s had – and that he has embraced with a calm, assertive focus.

Son of Mendoza

Born in Luján de Cuyo, in the heart of Mendoza, Murgia grew up among Malbec vines. The grandson and son of grape growers, he went on to study oenology and started his career at the local research outpost of the Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Agropecuaria.

After two seasons at different wineries, he joined Carlos Pulenta’s Bodega Vistalba, located in the town of the same name, staying for seven years.

While Murgia was there, the prolific entrepreneur Alejandro Bulgheroni became involved in the venture, taking a 50% stake to add to his growing portfolio of estates, which would eventually come to include properties in Argentina, Bordeaux, Italy, Napa and beyond.

The relationship with Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards (ABFV) flourished, and in 2010, Murgia became engaged in earnest in the development of its concerns in Argentina, under the umbrella of Grupo Avinea.

Its flagship projects – Bodega Argento (Mendoza), bought by Bulgheroni in 2012, and Otronia (Patagonia) – projected Murgia as a rising star on the Argentine wine scene.

Blank slate

When it changed ownership, Argento already existed as a volume brand. Murgia’s brief was to turn it into a fully fledged estate delivering organic-certified wines, working primarily with estate-owned fruit.

He oversaw the planting of vineyards in Alto Agrelo (232ha), Ugarteche (22ha), Altamira (21ha), Cruz de Piedra (12ha) and Carrizal (99ha).

During Murgia’s tenure – and under the guidance of winemaker Alberto Antonini, who consults across ABFV’s portfolio – Argento has become Argentina’s largest organic-certified producer.

The evolution of Murgia’s career overlaps with that of his relationship with Antonini, whom Murgia considers both his master and friend.

It’s easy to see a lineage: Murgia’s demeanour and approach echo Antonini’s matter-of-fact elegance, poised precision and relentless focus on terroir.

Yet Murgia has a personal attachment to his role that brings a cerebral viscerality to his words while also defining the stylistic thread that runs through his wines.

To the extreme

It was Otronia that forced Murgia to fully flex his viticultural muscles and to reconsider his classroom knowledge. The project’s inception happened alongside Argento’s, but it took longer for the vines to become fully productive, with the first wines released from the 2017 vintage.

Located on the shores of lake Musters in Sarmiento, in Chubut province, Patagonia, straddling parallel 45° 33’, the 52ha of vines grow on an extreme terroir defined by relentless winds, intense light and brutal temperature fluctuations.

‘[The border of] Patagonia is 1,000km from my home [in Mendoza]. Sarmiento is another 1,000km further,’ Murgia explains, giving context to what it means to work in the world’s southernmost wine sub-region.

‘It’s a singular landscape – almost untouched and extremely powerful.’

Two Juan Pablo Murgia wines to track down

Otronia, Chardonnay, Chubut, Patagonia, Argentina 2022 94pts

Focused and layered, with expressive smoky notes of flint and gunpowder over intense lemon zest, white grapefruit, crunchy pear and camomile notes. Juicy citrus drives an unctuous palate. A strong, assertive acid line held by a mineral backbone. Long, with lingering white grapefruit, wet stone and aniseed notes. Organic.

Argento, Single Block Block #1 Malbec, Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2021 94pts

Complex and characterful, with an alluring, fresh nose weaving together wet stone, petrichor, red cherry, plum, redcurrant, wild rocket and tomato leaf. Very pure fruit on the palate, supported by a beautiful tannic framework – fine and mineral yet muscular. The fleshy fruit fills the palate, held by a crunchy, textural grip. Long on the finish, with lingering tomato leaf and cherry pit notes. Organic.

Nature and nurture

Bulgheroni’s idea to explore (and push) the southern limit for viticulture came with good expectations. ‘But the team did not anticipate the qualitative level we’ve achieved,’ confesses Murgia. ‘The ambition was there – that’s why [at Otronia] we’ve taken precision viticulture and the concept of micro-terroir to the extreme.’

The vineyard is divided into 52 parcels, planted at high density with specific clonal and rootstock selections and harvested and vinified separately. ‘But for all our efforts and strict working philosophy – organic and now incorporating biodynamic practices – it’s also a function of the energy and magic of the place,’ Murgia concludes.

‘Respect for a place, precision viticulture and a superior terroir – that’s what makes special wines.’

There’s an interesting analogy here with Murgia himself, with his unassuming combination of technical expertise and visceral connection with the projects he’s involved in.

He evokes his childhood memories without losing sight of the inevitable technical demands of his work or taking any achievements for granted – and acknowledging the role others have had in shaping his opportunities and career.

At 41, with 20 (professional) harvests behind him, Murgia is a son of Mendoza, as a man as well as a winemaker. On the other hand, he has become the father of a new, unlikely terroir, whose Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and Merlots now regularly feature among South America’s best – not least in Decanter’s tastings.

A product of nature but also, no doubt, of knowledgeable nurture.

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Whether you’re looking to fête the start of 2025 in the utmost style or still planning this year’s calendar, we’ve pulled together some of the most decadent ways to celebrate the end of the winter season and beyond – because why should the party stop after New Year’s Eve?

If you’re still trying to find a gift for that family member whose wine collection has it all, we’ve got the perfect collector’s set from Bordeaux.

And what could be a more memorable experience for your gastronomic friends than a trip to Mendoza with legendary South American chef Francis Mallmann?

From cocktail pop-ups in chic ski cabins in Japan, to Champagne-fuelled dinner parties in three Michelin-starred restaurants and a new countryside chic hotel on Burgundy’s wine route, 2025 is gearing up to be a banner year for luxury.

Dine with iconic winemakers during a private tasting experience at three Michelin-starred Mirazur in the French Riviera

Housed in a glass-encased, 1930s rotunda watchtower perched over the Mediterranean on the French Riviera, chef Mauro Colagreco’s three-starred Mirazur is the definition of destination dining.

Surrounded by five hectares of permaculture and biodynamic gardens planted with more than 1,500 varieties – which includes 70 types of tomatoes alone – Mirazur has revived forgotten species while also introducing new ones.

The garden’s produce is the highlight of the plates during the carte blanche menu dubbed Univers, which looks to the movement of the planets and basics of biodynamics to guide the dishes.

This season, Mirazur wrapped up its first edition of exclusive winemaker dinners hosted in the private La Puerta space, where up to 15 guests dine table d’hôte-style at a communal table alongside the chef de cave or winemaker from lauded wine and Champagne houses.

This year’s standout lineup: Domaine Jacques Selosse, Artémis Domaines’ Bouchard Père et Fils and Domaine d’Eugénie, and Château d’Yquem, to name a few.

Watch Colagreco’s team in the open kitchen as they prep the nine-course tasting menu designed specifically around the latest and most iconic vintages from guest wineries.

The second edition will pop up throughout 2025 (dates yet to be announced).

Join chefs Francis Mallmann and award-winning pitmaster Aaron Franklin for a masterclass in Mendoza, Argentina

If you’re trying to decide what your first international trip of 2025 should be, we have the perfect pick to add to your calendar.

South America’s superstar chef Francis Mallmann is teaming up with award-winning chef Aaron Franklin, of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, for the five-day Smoke & Fire masterclass, taking place 12-16 February at The Vines Resort & Spa in Mendoza, Argentina.

Argentine asado meets traditional Texas barbecue as you learn the art of grilling and smoking alongside these masters in the Uco Valley.

Franklin, who is building a custom smoker for the special occasion, will cover everything from smoking techniques to perfecting his famous sauces and sides, while Mallmann will guide you through the art of cooking over open flames – with fireside chats, local boutique wines, and tango thrown in between.

The trip (not including airfare or transfers) starts at US$14,690 for members or US$34,020 for guests in a one-bedroom deluxe garden villa (single occupancy).

Indulge in decadent aprés-ski wine pairing dinners during The Little Nell’s Chefs & Somms Series in Aspen

Aspen’s The Little Nell, whose wine programme counts more than 20,000 bottles (led by wine director Chris Dunaway), is kicking off the new year with an impressive lineup of culinary creatives and world-renowned sommeliers during its Chefs & Somms Series, which coincides with ski season.

The mini world tour will bring everyone from Michelin-starred chef Egon Heiss of Castel Fragsburg to Australia’s first Master of Wine, Michael Hill Smith, and chef Mark Lundgaard of two-starred Kong Hans Kælder in Copenhagen, who will helm a special collaboration dinner with Krug x Flower on 15 February.

Reservations here

Journey through a bespoke Champagne tasting at L’Assiette Champenoise

Champagne Rendez-Vous’ Fiona Perrin has curated an immersive Champagne experience of esteemed growers and more under-the-radar gems to pair alongside an eight-course tasting menu at L’Assiette Champenoise near Reims, in the heart of Champagne.

From the six-seat chef’s table, glimpse into the kitchen and watch as three Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Lallement and his team prepare dishes designed around four cuvées from Champagne Rendez-Vous, with Perrin guiding the journey through her selection of exceptional bubbles.

Available for lunch or dinner with a one-night stay at L’Assiette Champenoise (reservations here); 595€ per person.

Step into the newly opened, crystal-draped Ducasse Baccarat in Paris

Celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse – one of only two chefs to hold 21 Michelin stars throughout his career – has joined forces with haute French fine crystal house Baccarat, transforming the historic hôtel particulier in Paris’ well-heeled 16th arrondissement into a combined artist residency, cultural centre and gastronomic culinary experience.

Each element of Maison Baccarat is designed to be immersive. From pieces of Baccarat’s heritage collection on display, to a ‘chapel of light’ installation by stained-glass artist Pierre Tatin, which will guide you to the Jérémie Attali-designed garden, debuting in 2025.

Another highlight: the Tuzla chandelier – composed of 157 lights and 9,000 crystal pendants – illuminating the main staircase (pictured).

As for the signature Alain Ducasse Baccarat restaurant, start with a cocktail by Margot Lecarpentier (the mastermind behind one of Paris’ top cocktail bars, Combat) at Bar Midi-Minuit, which is paired with four bites created by the restaurant’s gastronomic trio of chefs: Alain Ducasse, Christophe Saintagne and Robin Schroeder.

Then, make your way to the restaurant swathed in raw oak screens by sculptor Jean-Guillaume Mathiaut and Baccarat artisan-crafted blown crystal drops hanging from the fresco-painted ceiling.

The collection of impressive artwork extends to the upstairs tasting cellar, where you can sip wines selected by Groupe Ducasse’s head sommelier, Bernard Neveu, while admiring a canopy illustration by painter Gérard Garouste that expresses the four elements essential to the alchemy of crystal: water, earth, air and fire.

Sip craft cocktails at Niseko Confidential’s alpine-chic cabin in the Japanese ski village of Hirafu

Award-winning cocktail bar Tokyo Confidential is bringing a taste of the Japanese capital to the slopes this season with a winter pop-up dubbed Niseko Confidential, taking over an alpine cabin in the heart of Hirafu.

Tokyo Confidential’s eclectic art collection like retro Godzilla posters and a giant inflatable maneki-neko (the Japanese ‘fortune cat’) will brighten the traditional rustic interiors.

You can warm up with après-ski-inspired cocktails like the Gingerbread Old Fashioned (pictured), a blend of bourbon, gingerbread and bitters, or the Pumpkin Spiced Latte for Grown-Ups, a mix of autumn spiced tea, Cognac and cream.

Menus start at $261; reservations here.

Spend the night at Burgundy’s newest address, the plush Bellevigne

The first of Les Hôtels (Très) Particuliers’ properties to debut on the French wine routes, 37-room Bellevigne Bourgogne sits at the foot of a church tower in the wine village of Chambolle-Musigny in the Côte de Nuits, halfway between Beaune and Dijon.

Wine-inspired décor and antique furniture are scattered across the old manor home, where terraces perch over the garden, original wooden beams extend across high ceilings, and the design elegantly embraces countryside chic with canopied beds and claw-foot standing tubs.

In the tasting room and centuries-old vaulted cellars, you’ll find more than 1,000 wine references, including exclusive allocations and lesser-known producers.

A private lounge features a fresco highlighting Burgundy’s climates; terroir-themed fare is served in the oenophile library and out on the patio.

And the Tannin Spa offers everything from an outdoor pool, sauna and hammam to treatments featuring French organic line Absolution.

Visit Maison Ruinart’s experiential 4 Rue des Crayères in Reims

Champagne is known for its reservation-only policy when it comes to visits and tastings, but Maison Ruinart’s latest project, 4 Rue des Crayères, offers a first-of-its-kind sensory experience in Reims.

Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto, interior designer Gwenaël Nicolas and landscape artist Christophe Gautrand spent the past three years transforming the centuries-old Champagne house’s estate.

A sculpture garden championing local biodiversity encases the new stone-and-glass Nicolas Ruinart Pavilion, designed from natural, bio-sourced materials and constructed with the help of local artisans and skilled stonemasons.

‘Shape is important and the maison is very symmetrical, so I wanted to bring some kind of positive imperfection,’ said Fujimoto during the debut this fall.

‘The beautiful curvature creates a nice harmony and contrast with the existing maison’s [19th-century facades].’

At 4 Rue des Crayères, you can dine and drink at the Bar by Ruinart, which serves a selection of champagne cocktails designed by Maison Cravan, like the Royal Shiso with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and green shiso leaves, as well as a selection of Ruinart cuvées.

On the opposite side of the expansive, light-drenched space, pick up a bottle (or a few) at the boutique, which also features gorgeous housewares like candle holders made from vine cuttings.

‘The building, when you see it, is like a projection of Ruinart in the future—we’re creating a new history for Ruinart,’ said Nicolas.

‘We took elements like a carafe and created a sculpture of upside down bottles as a metaphor of how champagne comes from the past. Everyone was surprised, expecting to see a château, and instead you see a sculpture.’

Join We Are ONA’s new pop-up series for 2025

After a pop-up in a train station during Art Basel Paris, creative culinary studio We Are ONA returned last month in partnership with multidisciplinary artist, artistic director, architect and designer Alexandre de Betak.

Taking over a Haussmannian apartment under construction on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, overlooking the Tuileries Garden, the week-long pop-up (running from 10-16 December) offered a peek of what’s to come in the scaffolding-filled space.

At the helm of the cuisine for this edition: Alexis Bijaoui (pictured below), who cut his teeth at now-closed Relæ in Copenhagen and L’Arpège in Paris before co-founding L’Auberge de La Roche in the village of Valdeblore, in France’s Mercantour National Park.

Culinary pop-ups will continue throughout 2025 (dates yet to be announced).

Look out for future reservations here

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That Susana Balbo has been a pioneering force in Argentine (and South American) wine goes without saying.

Her talent as a winemaker, entrepreneurial spirit, resilience in the face of many challenges and the way in which she has reframed the possibilities for women in the wine industry make her one of the sector’s most respected names.

Which explains her worthy inclusion in Decanter’s Hall of Fame in 2024.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Susana Balbo’s eight vintages of Signature White Blend

Landmark year

Serendipitously – and rather symbolically – the bestowment of Decanter’s lifetime achievement award coincided with the 25th anniversary of Balbo’s eponymous project, founded in 1999 as Dominio del Plata. Her winery and range now bear her name – appropriately, for hers are wines with a very personal imprint.

Beyond the Hall of Fame recognition, the quarter-century anniversary was marked by the release of a special library edition of Cabernet Sauvignon from the flagship Nosotros range.

However, rather than merely celebrating her achievements, Balbo used the landmark year to consider the evolution of one of her now best-known – and itself pioneering – wines, the Signature White Blend.

A vertical tasting of all vintages since the inaugural 2016 provided an opportunity to consider the wine’s evolution and potential, as well as its meaning for South American wine more broadly.

Indeed, if South America has now firmly established itself as a safe source of fine red wine – of consistent quality, expressiveness and collectability – the full potential for premium whites is yet to be fully unleashed. But a revolution is afoot, with Balbo’s Signature White Blend a strong step forward – for the path it has opened and questions it has raised.

Balbo herself recognises that the Signature White Blend is a work in progress; a journey of learning – as ever – and discovery that shows a humble recognition of work yet to be done.

Embracing the challenge

The genesis of a Bordeaux-inspired white blend was a visit by Tim Atkin MW to Balbo’s winery in Mendoza.

‘Chatting to Susana Balbo one day, I bemoaned the relative shortage of good white blends in Argentina,’ explains Atkin.

Wouldn’t there be potential to produce an age-worthy wine, Argentine in its essence, to rival the world’s best whites and match the country’s great reds? ‘So a week later, we sat down with a Sémillon from Mendel, a Sauvignon Blanc from Giuseppe Franceschini and her own Torrontés and played with some components for fun.’

Not one to shy away from a good challenge and always driven by great curiosity (creative as well as technical) Balbo set out to add the experiment to her aptly-named Signature range.

‘Little did I imagine that she would go ahead and make a wine based on our cuvée. Not only that, she improved on it,’ Atkin continues.

Queen of Torrontés – and much more

Having started her career in the cradle of Torrontés Riojano, in Cafayate (Salta), and often referred to as the ‘Queen’ of Argentina’s flagship white variety (see latest releases of her Signature Barrel Fermented and Late Harvest iterations for proof), Balbo was well placed to make the best of the variety’s aromatic and textural potential, alongside classical French counterparts.

Balbo says that blending is the winemaker’s greatest skill; the ability to produce something that is more than the sum of its parts. The signature White Blend indeed shows how Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon can work to each other’s benefit: the florality of Torrontés outlined by Sauvignon’s herbaceousness; the woolly weight of Sémillon (especially with some years in bottle) lifted by the aromatic vividness of its counterparts; the zesty scalpel of Sauvignon softened by the barrel-aged Torrontés and unctuous Sémillon.

‘Textural’ is a word often used to describe this wine. Texture is indeed central to the identity of the wine, a product of multiple, complementary factors. The Sémillon and Sauvignon grapes undergo pre-fermentative maceration; Sauvignon and Torrontés are fermented in oak, where they are kept on the lees for two months; the final blend ages for up to six months in barrel (60% of which new).

The subtle phenolic grip at the core of this wine is key to its medium-term development, showing particularly well in vintages 2018 to 2020.

Vintages 2016 and 2017, with the weighty, nutty depth of Sémillon emerging more vividly, suggest there’s great potential for this to become a wine designed to be drunk with even more time in bottle.

Leveraging further potential

Which left me wondering whether Balbo is treading too carefully. Could Torrontés be brought to the forefront, especially in vintages where Sauvigon Blanc tends to dominate the aromatic palette and the wine therefore seems a bit more removed from its place? Is there perhaps potential for more ageing in barrel?

Some vintages seem to suggest that the marrying of the blend and the textural potential would benefit from a bit more wood. And moving the dial into slightly more oxidative territory might add an interesting depth of field. If so, more extended macerations might add complexity without loss of elegance.

Such questions would not be asked, however, if the wine did not show, already, the character, poise and evolution potential of a great white. Atkin says that since its first vintage, the Signature White Blend ‘has gone on to become one of South America’s finest and most distinctive whites’.

‘The first one was good, of course, but since then she’s refined the blend and improved the quality. I’m proud to have inspired her to make something so good.’

Curiosity and anticipation is how we’ll wait to see how Balbo takes it further.

Susana Balbo Signature White Blend – all released vintages scored and tasted:

Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. 

Related articles

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Decanter’s expert writers and contributors awarded 95-points or more to almost 3,000 wines in the 12 months to October 2024.

While they have all appeared in the pages of Decanter magazine and online on Decanter Premium and in our decanter.com database, there were too many to reproduce here for a seasonal wrap-up.

So, in a somewhat unfair and very challenging task, we asked each of our Regional Editors to select just five wines from each of their key areas of expertise to highlight the bounty and diversity on offer across the world wine map.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the South American Wines of the Year 2024

The many wines tasted and producers met throughout 2024 confirmed that South America is – and will surely remain – the source of some of the world’s most exciting wines across various styles and prices.

Unique – in some cases extreme – terroirs and a growing pool of talented winemakers explain the phenomenon.

One of this year’s most exciting discoveries, Otronia’s Block I Pinot Noir, produced by Juan Pablo Murgia in Sarmiento, Patagonia, is a perfect example of this fortunate combination.

Another key factor is the productive synergy between generations.

Younger faces, armed with technical knowledge, instinct, personality and worldly awareness, alongside established names whose nothing-left-to-prove status allows them the freedom to take risks and question assumptions – not least about themselves – with confidence.

This cross-generational energy is reflected in producers Catena Zapata and Zuccardi’s enduring ability to deliver true modern classics that once again stood out among the September releases on the La Place de Bordeaux marketplace.

Likewise at PerSe, where Santi del Popolo has joined his father, the renowned viticulturist Edy del Popolo, and winemaker David Bonomi to produce some of the most elegant wines coming out of Mendoza at the moment.

The latter also reflects another important trend: smaller, low-intervention, personal projects (such as the eponymous venture of Francisco Beattig, of Viñedos Chadwick and Seña fame) where a group of talented winemakers are exploring micro-terroirs and reinterpreting tradition.

Quick links:

See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Bordeaux & Burgundy | Champagne, Rhône and regional France | Italy | Spain & Portugal | The US | Australia, New Zealand & South Africa | Rest of the World

Wines of the Year 2024: South America

Wines are listed white then red, in score order

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The new range includes a Syrah and a Primitivo, which were created in partnership with Switzerland-based MM Winemaker. These limited-edition wines are on sale for €60 (£50) per bottle at the MM Winemaker site. Messi is often referred to as the GOAT (greatest of all time) after breaking all manner of records throughout his glittering career.

The 37-year-old forward has won the World Cup, two Copa América titles, four Champions League titles, 10 La Liga titles, two Ligue 1 titles and all manner of cup competitions.

He has also won the Ballon d’Or, the annual award given to the world’s best player, a record eight times.

Some football fans would argue that Pelé, Diego Maradona, Ronaldo Nazário, Cristiano Ronaldo, Zinedine Zidane or perhaps Johan Cruyff would be more deserving of the GOAT tag, but most pundits agree that Messi is the greatest ever to play the game.

Messi, who has worn the number 10 on the back of his shirt throughout his career, announced the limited-edition GOAT 10 wines on Instagram. He referred to them as ‘two premium wines with collectible bottles that you simply cannot miss’.

This is not his first foray into the winemaking world. Messi previously teamed up with MM Winemaker to launch the Lionel Collections, which included Pinot Grigio, Nero d’Avola, Grillo, Chardonnay, Primitivo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

MM Winemaker, which has close ties to Italy, said the collection ‘pays tribute to a true legend and combines exceptional quality with our rich winemaking heritage’.

Former Barcelona teammate Andrés Iniesta also spearheads his family’s winery in Spain, which is called Bodega Iniesta. David Silva, Andrea Pirlo, Gianluigi Buffon, Ronaldinho, Roberto Carlos, Andrea Barzagli and Franz Beckenbauer are just some of the other football stars with their own wine brands.

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The stellar reputation of South America’s premium red wines has been built on the region’s iconic varietal wines: Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, and Uruguayan Tannat.

Yet these wines are a relatively recent phenomenon, only really gathering pace in the 1980s when South American wineries – their sights set on export – joined the wave of varietally labelled wines emerging from the New World.

Prior to this shift in focus, South American winemakers had been more interested in producing European-style blends – and Bordeaux blends in particular. This was a reflection of the early French and other European influences on the local wine industry.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 premium South American red blends

Blending traditions

The first South American vineyards were planted by Spanish settlers and missionaries in the 1500s, but it was the wave of European immigration in the late 1800s and early 1900s that had the most significant impact on the development of the modern South American wine industry.

Many wineries were founded or advised by French vignerons, and mass immigration from wine-producing regions of Spain, Italy and France in particular ensured that European varieties and sensibilities took hold. European blends found a new home in South America.

Varietal Malbec, Cabernet, Carmenère and Tannat moved into starring roles on the world stage in the decades following the 1980s surge, and since then top winemakers have continued to evolve their premium blends behind the scenes.

The best Bordeaux-style blends are far from mere imitations of Bordeaux. South America’s winemakers are creative, blending in the local heroes Malbec, Carmenère and Tannat.

Other European varieties such as Syrah and Cabernet Franc are also adding refinement, with winemakers seeking to balance tradition and innovation.

Meanwhile, the emergence of new geographical indications (or GIs – delimited areas indicating the origin of a wine, which may be stated on labels), such as the sub-regional GIs of the high-elevation Uco Valley, is encouraging experimentation with new grape varieties, such as Rhône-style blends based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

The character of local terroirs and individual vintages is being given increasing weight, too; good vintages such as 2018, 2019 and 2021 have seen quality elevated to new heights.

Greater finesse

The line-up of premium South American red blends from which I made this selection included some truly world-class wines. Perhaps the most revealing aspect of the tasting was an evident stylistic shift towards greater finesse – these will always be wines of body and opulence, but they are increasingly elegant and vibrant, too.

And although these are wines built to last another decade – or longer – in the cellar, you’ll find that many are drinking beautifully already.

It’s no surprise that many of these wines are earning recognition in prestigious markets, including La Place de Bordeaux (since the 17th century used as a central distribution network for Bordeaux wines, but which in recent years has developed into a platform to sell elite wines from around the world).

Cheval des Andes became the first Argentinian wine to be sold through La Place in 2003.

Premium red blends have played the role of understudy in South America for decades, but they are steadily now moving into the spotlight – it’s time to take a fresh look.

Notes and scores for 18 top South American red blends

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Andy Howard MW, Christine Allen and Eugenio Egorov tasted 131 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 71 Highly Recommended.

Sparkling wines of the Americas: Panel tasting scores

131 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 71

Recommended 55

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release sparkling wines from any recognised appellation in the Americas, north or south – vintage or non-vintage, of any colour white, rosé or red, and produced according to the traditional or ancestral methods (ie, respectively, secondary fermentation in bottle or a single fermentation in bottle.

The judging panel were impressed by the outright quality on show in this tasting, from areas as diverse as the Niagara Peninsula and Nova Scotia in Canada down to the southerly extremes of Patagonia. At the end, Eugenio Egorov enthused about ‘the rise of American sparkling wine – a New World of bubbles’.

He observed: ‘A quiet revolution is underway across the Americas, and the results are nothing short of impressive.’ Andy Howard MW agreed: ‘The quality came as a surprise, with fantastic balance and precision in the top-scoring wines.’

Scroll down to see the top results from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Six nation tasting

This six-nation tasting traversed Canada, the US, Brazil, Uruguay, Chile and Argentina. It was no great shock that many US wines did well, with the long-established Chandon performing strongly.

And no surprise, either, that the Racines Grand Reserve Chardonnay gained a score of 94, given the involvement of Rodolphe Péters (of Champagne Pierre Péters) and Etienne de Montille and Brian Sieve (Domaine de Montille in Burgundy).

What did bowl the panel over was the quantity and quality of wines from Canada. Of the 79 Canadian wines tasted, three were deemed Outstanding, 37 Highly recommended.

Availability may be a challenge in the UK, but those in North America should celebrate the quality on offer in their backyard.

Ultra-cool climate Nova Scotia performed well (with the highly distinctive hybrid L’Acadie Blanc grape displaying its benchmark acidity in one of Blomidon’s wines.

But it was Ontario that provided the greatest excitement.

Two Niagara estates took top honours, with York Vineyards a particular shock as its first releases were yet to hit the market (due July/August 2024) at the time of tasting. These wines show the potential of this region.

York Vineyards is currently the only estate in Ontario (and perhaps in Canada) known to be focusing entirely on traditional method sparkling wine; barrel fermentation/ maturation and extended lees ageing here have resulted in some excellent wines.

See all the wines from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Bright future

South America didn’t perform quite as strongly, perhaps a reflection of the market driven, sharper price limitations on producers in Chile, Uruguay and Brazil.

Many of the wines are Recommended (86-89pts), but fewer shone as brightly as those from the US and Canada.

The developing ‘frontier’ regions of Limarí (Chile) and Chubut (Argentinian Patagonia) did show great potential.

The Otronia estate in Chubut was a great discovery. In the extreme south of Argentina (45’33’’) where the climate is cold and hostile, the first vines were planted in 2010.

The results for such youthful wines are impressive – great focus, purity and energy.

Egorov summarised the potential for the sparkling wines of the Americas: ‘As the global demand for sparkling wine continues to rise, and prices in traditional regions like Champagne and Italy climb ever higher, American producers are stepping up to offer exciting alternatives with more accessible price-tags.’

He concluded: ‘The future of fizz is looking bright on this side of the Atlantic.’

Sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Christine Allen is marketing director for distributor Maisons Marques et Domaines, particularly focusing on Old World regions, Champagne and sparkling wine. She has years of experience across sales, marketing and buying in the fine wine market, and is a DWWA judge.

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester.

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Pioneering Argentina-based winemaker Susana Balbo is the recipient of the prestigious Decanter Hall of Fame award for 2024, joining a roll-call of great names who have made outstanding contributions to the wine world.

Balbo has been instrumental in enhancing Argentina’s international reputation for top quality wines, and is known as the ‘Queen of Torrontés’ for her work with this grape variety.

Presiding over her eponymous Susana Balbo Wines today, she was the first female winemaker in South America. 

‘Susana Balbo didn’t just break the glass ceiling for women in South America, she completely shattered it, becoming a role model for generations to follow,’ writes Amanda Barnes in a special feature in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue. 

‘And regardless of her gender, she has masterfully achieved exceptional milestones – facing often unfathomable challenges along the way.’

Balbo had initially intended to study nuclear physics, but circumstances led her to winemaking and she finished top of the class, writes Barnes, who is author of the South America Wine Guide.

After beating 88 male applicants to secure a first job, at Michel Torino, Balbo moved to the remote mountain village of Cafayate and revolutionised the wines – personally transporting materials across the treacherous Andean pass when lorry drivers refused.

‘She was always challenging herself to move forward, and continues to drive forward today,’ said Mariano di Paolo, who worked with Balbo at Bodegas Esmeralda (now Catena Zapata) in the early 1990s. 

‘It is only when you are challenged in life that you can realise certain talents,’ Balbo told Barnes in an interview. ‘I believe things happen for a reason.’

While Balbo contributed greatly to premium white wines in Argentina, she is a big fan of reds and named Cabernet Sauvignon her favourite grape variety to work with – even above Malbec.

Alongside winemaking, she has been president and vice-president of trade body Wines of Argentina. She also served as a Congresswoman for Mendoza, and was chair of W20 (Women20) for the G20 summit in 2018.

Part of Balbo’s work is now to ensure that the family business can be handed over to her children, Ana and José, and the wider team, in order to continue to thrive. 

‘I feel very privileged to have grown up being taught by her that there are no limits to what you can do,’ said Ana, who manages tourism at the group’s winery, three restaurants and luxury hotel. 

‘But she also taught us to focus on others – if the community doesn’t grow around the winery, there is no point to it.’ 

Read Amanda Barnes’ full article on Hall of Fame 2024 award winner Susana Balbo

Pascaline Lepeltier: Decanter Rising Star 2024

Decanter has also announced that this year’s Rising Star award goes to Pascaline Lepeltier, the talented sommelier and author working to improve wine’s environmental and social impact. 

Lepeltier is the fourth recipient of the Rising Star award, which was created to recognise up-and-coming wine world talent.

She is already one of the world’s top sommeliers and has recently authored her first solo book, Mille Vignes, as Christina Rasmussen reports in a special feature article in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue.

The English translation, One Thousand Vines, is due to be released in the UK in October (£45, Mitchell Beazley). 

Decanter contributing editor Andrew Jefford said: ‘Mille Vignes is a wonderful compendium of knowledge – not only about wine but around wine, presented with encyclopaedic intent and academic refinement: she’s chased up every reference, every thread. 

‘Pascaline has given us the breadth of her own remarkable knowledge, in a spirit of generosity very typical of her. I find it a hugely enjoyable, exciting and original book on wine – a real achievement from an outstanding member of the global wine community.’

Lepeltier studied philosophy at Nantes University in France, but subsequently developed a fascination with wine after meeting Patrick Rigourd, the head wine merchant at Des Halles et des Gourmets, in Angers.

This led to a second Master’s degree, in hospitality management, and a sommelier diploma, alongside an internship at chef Jacques Thorel’s L’Auberge Bretonne.

‘Growing up, I didn’t go to restaurants with my parents; I discovered the world of gastronomy during my internship,’ Lepeltier told Rasmussen in Decanter magazine. 

‘I became fascinated by taste and the power of the palate, and really saw it as an anthropological study.’ 

Vineyard work with winemakers Mark Angeli, of Ferme de la Sansonnière, and Nicolas Joly helped to ignite Lepeltier’s passion for organics and biodynamics. 

Lepeltier devised one of the world’s most celebrated wine lists after becoming beverage director for Rouge Tomate in New York in 2009, writes Rasmussen.

She also went on to create the chëpìka label with winemaker Nathan Kendall, sourced from New York state’s historical hybrid varieties Delaware, Catawba and Concord.

Lepeltier was named Best Sommelier of France in 2018 and plans to compete in the International Sommelier Association’s (ASI) Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa & Middle East in November 2024, having come fourth in the ‘World’ contest last year.

Read the full article on Pascaline Lepeltier in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue 

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Susana Balbo is not a woman you easily forget. Visionary, pioneering, courageous, perseverant and strong are just a clutch of the adjectives regularly used to describe her. But if you meet Susana, it’s her silent command of a room and her steady, focused gaze that will stop you in your tracks.

Although elegant in appearance and petite in stature, Susana has a formidable presence. The tremendous respect she commands today, now in her late 60s, is both hard earned and hard fought.

This year’s recipient of our Decanter Hall of Fame Award, the latest in a roll-call of great names in the wine world, Susana Balbo didn’t just break the glass ceiling for women in South America, she completely shattered it, becoming a role model for generations to follow.

And regardless of her gender, she has masterfully achieved exceptional milestones – facing often unfathomable challenges along the way.

Scroll down to read more about Susana’s extraordinary career

Intuition for innovation

Susana’s winemaking story has an unlikely start. Although she was born in Argentina’s wine capital – the mountain city of Mendoza – her parents worked in textiles. Her aspiration as a young adult was to study nuclear physics; wine wasn’t part of the plan.

But fate intervened, in the way it often does, and the economic turmoil and political unrest of late-1970s Argentina scuppered her plans to study further afield. Instead, she signed up for the most science-driven course she could take locally: winemaking.

Although other women started the course with her, Susana was the lone female to make it to the end. Her perseverance set a new precedent – she became the first female winemaker in South America. She also graduated top of her class.

None of which made the reality of being Argentina’s only female winemaker any easier. To make things worse, the country was still in crisis and jobs were particularly hard to come by. She spent months experiencing rejection as she looked for work.

‘I was one of 89 applicants for Michel Torino,’ says Susana of the job she eventually pipped 88 men to the post for. ‘We spent three months interviewing. There were so many tests – even psychological ones!’

The owners picked Susana as their first choice, but not without warning her that women were either ‘very good, or very bad at their jobs – never in the middle’, as she recalls. She was given a trial period of one month in which to prove herself.

And prove herself she did. The then 25-year-old moved more than 1,000km from her home to the remote mountain village of Cafayate. After days travelling on winding mountain roads, she arrived at an outdated, decaying winery with no electricity and a cellar full of oxidised wines.

‘The wines tasted horrible!’ she says, recoiling in horror even now. ‘There were so many problems.’

Her smart, rebellious streak kicked in. She called the regulatory body and begged them not to visit her for three months. ‘I knew what I had to do, but 90% of the winemaking processes were forbidden. It was the only way I could save the wines!’

Using her aptitude for science and enthusiasm for technology, she salvaged the wines and put a plan in place to ensure the same mistakes would never be committed again.

She brought stainless steel tanks along the mountain roads and when truck drivers refused to ferry materials from Mendoza across the treacherous Andean pass, she learned how to modify her car and did it herself. Susana was unstoppable.

Although she revolutionised the red wines, it was her transformation of the region’s principal white grape that earned her the moniker ‘Queen of Torrontés’.

‘I didn’t have much choice – 70% of the vineyard was Torrontés!’ she says with a laugh. But in reality, Susana took what was an unloved variety, infamous for being bitter and bland, and chiselled it into a crisp, fragrant white wine – in the process making it a bona fide Argentinian icon.

Susana Balbo at a glance

Born: 9 April 1956, Mendoza

Studied: Winemaking at Don Bosco technical college (graduated 1981)

Wine career: Michel Torino (1981- 1989); Lovaglio Balbo (1990-1994); consultant winemaker (1995-2001); Martins Winery production director (1996-1998); Bodegas Esmeralda (1999-2002); Susana Balbo Wines, formerly Dominio del Plata (1999-today)

Political career: President of Wines of Argentina (2006-2008, 2008-2010, 2014-2015); WofA vice-president (2010-2012, 2012-2014); congresswoman for Mendoza (2015-2019); chair of Women20 Summit

Family: Two children, José Lovaglio (age 40) and Ana Lovaglio (38)

Interests: Reading, travelling, horse riding, time with her grandchildren

Up for the challenge

In the early days, she bucked the trend for carbon fining of white wines and carried out Argentina’s first experiment with enzymes – clarification enzymes used in the production of apple juice, as they were the only ones available – instead. ‘It was a big risk,’ she admits, ‘but it worked!’

Susana continues to transform and push the quality of Torrontés, notably planting it in the Uco Valley and ageing it in untoasted oak barrels for the top wines of her eponymous brand today.

‘Torrontés is just one example of her brilliant winemaking, and she has made the finest I have tasted,’ says Toby Morrhall, a UK wine buyer who began working with Susana in 1996. ‘Torrontés is sometimes excessively aromatic and not easy to drink. [But Susana achieves] beautiful essential oil-like aromas, as found in orange peel, without astringency.

This is a superb technical achievement that transcends the limitations of the Torrontés variety. She has a relentless thirst for the latest research and technology, and her ability and determination are transparently obvious.’

She has been at the forefront of Argentina’s new premium white wine movement and while she admits she has a special fondness and is ‘grateful to Torrontés, as it put me on the map’, Susana is actually far more of a red wine woman. Cabernet Sauvignon is her favourite grape variety to make – even above Argentina’s signature Malbec.

Why Cabernet? ‘I guess I like the challenge… There are many great Cabernet Sauvignons all over the world, whereas we have no competitors with Malbec.’ Never afraid to throw down the gauntlet, she adds: ‘I like to challenge myself to make a wine that can stand up to other wines of the world.’

Skills beyond the cellar

Susana’s tenacity and skill as a winemaker gained her prestigious winemaking posts in Argentina and as a consultant abroad. But she never stayed in her comfort zone for long, instead challenging herself to take on greater responsibility, venturing bravely into the business of wine and becoming one of Argentina’s first female winery founders.

What makes these achievements even more impressive are the hurdles she overcame to reach them. Her time in Salta ended in frustration and deprivation after the then-new owners ‘didn’t pay me a whole year of my salary’, which Susana says forced her to move back to Mendoza, babes in arms, to start again.

She experienced painful personal rejection when her parents founded a winery with her brother, leaving her out of the family business.

And Susana has had to pick up the pieces from her own two wineries – one with her first ex-husband, which went under after they were scammed in 1994 during Argentina’s period of hyperinflation; and subsequently having to buy out her second ex-husband when their differences became too great to work together, as a result of which she took on the winery single-handed. Put simply, Susana doesn’t give up.

‘I have had some traumatic experiences and challenges,’ she reflects. ‘But I am a positive person. It is only when you are challenged in life that you can realise certain talents. I believe things happen for a reason.’

This attitude and drive is what her closest colleagues recall. ‘Susana has always been a woman of strength and great confidence,’ affirms Mariano di Paolo, who worked with her at Bodegas Esmeralda (now Catena Zapata) in the early 1990s. ‘She was always challenging herself to move forward and continues to drive forward today.’

Susana herself attributes this drive to her great faith – as a devout Catholic. ‘My life has had its ups and downs, but my faith has driven me,’ she says. ‘I think God never gives you more challenges than you can handle. You should never surrender.’

Four women Susana admires

Mother Teresa

‘She’s a saint and gave everything to people who had absolutely nothing. The generosity and empathy she had for other people is incomparable.’

Indira Ghandi

‘When she needed to solve the problems she had, the United Nations left her alone to solve the problems – and she did.’

Jancis Robinson MW

‘She settled herself as an authority in the wine world.’

Helen Turley

‘She was the first to change the style of Zinfandel, and in some way I identify myself with her journey.’

Ambition for change

Another of her callings has been in the political arena – bringing change to the wine industry, for Argentina and for women. She campaigned hard to become the first female president of Wines of Argentina (WofA): ‘Nobody wanted to vote for me… The big wineries all tried to convince me not to do it. But I have never been afraid of what other people think about me.’

Instead, she went to the small growers, listened to their concerns and gained their trust. She won the presidency.

By the end of her term, she had left such an impression that she was voted in unanimously as president twice more.

In her time as president, Susana tripled membership, profoundly grew WofA’s international presence and, most importantly, helped to ‘sell Argentina’ – with a series of visionary marketing campaigns that not only showed the beauty of the wine regions, but the culture of Argentina: its tango, mountains and gastronomy.

‘We made Argentina exist as a category internationally!’

Helping to open eyes to Argentinian wine is clearly one of the greatest sources of pride for Susana, but her political ambitions didn’t stop there. From 2015, she served as congresswoman for Mendoza – following another hard-fought campaign.

She started with grand ambitions, but the stagnant, corrupt nature of the political arena saddened her: ‘I thought in politics I could do what we did with WofA, but I realised it was impossible – politicians only work for themselves.’

She did, however, at the request of then President Mauricio Macri, stay on to take on the role of chair of W20 (Women20), as part of the G20 Summit in 2018. ‘I was really proud of what we did in that time.’ It was one of the highlights of her life, she says, ‘to fight for women’s rights, without being a feminist’.

Securing the future

Susana’s desire to have an impact resonates at all levels. ‘Susana is a strong woman, as everyone knows,’ says Edy del Popolo, who has been working closely with her for more than a decade as general manager of Susana Balbo Wines, which employs more than 110 people today and produces two million bottles annually.

‘But along with her courage, she also has great sensitivity and is very generous. These are characteristics that many people don’t know about Susana. It perhaps feels like a contrast to her strength, but she takes care of her employees in a way you wouldn’t believe.’

Part of this care is now to hand the family businesses over to her children, Ana and José, as well as her trusted team, so the businesses can continue to thrive in the future.

‘She has always taught us that there is no shortcut, nor an easy path – that success is 99% sweat and 1% inspiration,’ says daughter Ana, who manages tourism at their winery, three restaurants and luxury hotel.

‘I feel very privileged to have grown up being taught by her that there are no limits to what you can do. But she also taught us to focus on others – if the community doesn’t grow around the winery, there is no point to it.’

It’s this tender side of the formidable Susana Balbo, a professional I’ve had the pleasure of interviewing several times over the past two decades, that radiates most vibrantly today. At peace enjoying her family and confident in her legacy.

Her gaze is still strong, her presence is still commanding, and Susana Balbo is utterly unforgettable. She is a true legend of South American wine, who did it her way.

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Malbec and Carmenère may have become South America’s most emblematic red varieties, but in keeping with the rest of the wine world, the most-planted wine grape is actually Cabernet Sauvignon. With 50,677ha of vines in Chile and Argentina alone (2022), according to government data, this Bordeaux variety has been the darling of the continent since its arrival some 180 years ago.

In the newly independent South American republics in the mid-19th century, the wealthy elites had a penchant for European fancies. It became a rite of passage to take a ‘Grand Tour’ around Europe, during which many developed a taste for the wines of Bordeaux.

This was the catalyst for developing the wine industries of Chile and Argentina – to recreate the sophisticated flavours experienced abroad. The native Criolla grapes growing at home were fine for jug wine and brandy, but didn’t come up to the standards of the colour and structure of the red wines of Bordeaux.

In a bid to get closer to the wines they so admired, a handful of wealthy vignerons started an import programme in the 1840s and 1850s – importing not only French vines but winemakers, too.

‘The French paradigm completely changed the style of wines here,’ says leading Chilean historian Pablo Lacoste, ‘and more and more people demanded these styles as time went by.’

22 great South American Cabernet Sauvignons listed below

All in the timing

The love affair with Bordeaux has run hot ever since. Although there’s a medley of international influences in South American wines today, it can be argued that Bordeaux has been the single most significant, bringing in knowledge, investment and vine material key to the development of South America’s Cabernet Sauvignon.

The timing of Cabernet Sauvignon’s arrival from France in the mid-1800s was fortuitous. Not long after the vines had crossed the Atlantic and been planted in South American soil, phylloxera swept across Europe, the pest devastating the vineyards of France, including those in Bordeaux. South America was suddenly a treasure trove of phylloxera-free European vine cuttings.

As such, Chile and Argentina’s massal selections – vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing stock of ‘mother vines’ on an estate – of Cabernet Sauvignon are living relics, offering great genetic diversity.

These are some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the world. Centenarian vines still producing wines can be found in Colchagua, Curicó and Maule in Chile, with the oldest believed to be the ungrafted vines of Neyen in Apalta, planted in 1889.

Meanwhile, in Argentina, many old vines can be found around the regions of Mendoza, but the oldest are believed to be held by Colomé in Salta in northern Argentina – at 2,300m, a field blend of ungrafted vines including Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with Malbec and other Bordeaux varieties, planted circa 1856.

Shaking off the past

Winemaking evolved with a Bordeaux accent, and Bordeaux blends emerged as ‘icon’ wines in the 1980s and ’90s, such as (Santa Rita) Casa Real, (Montes) Alpha M, (Errazuriz) Don Maximiliano, (Concha y Toro) Don Melchor and Almaviva from Chile, and Nicolás Catena Zapata and Cheval des Andes in Argentina. Wine styles also fluctuated with international tastes – South American Cabernets weren’t immune to the 2000s trend towards riper, heavily oaked wines.

Now, South American producers favour a more terroir-driven, local approach. In the vineyards, the hydric stress (aiming to reduce berry size and yields, to increase intensity of flavours) and major leaf plucking (to expose bunches to more sunlight and air) promoted by Bordeaux consultants in the 1990s are going out of vogue.

These techniques may have reaped benefits back in the rainier climate of France, but in the sunny, dry climates of Chile and Argentina, they can leave grapes raisinated and overripe.

Chilean winemaker Francisco Baettig, a key figure in developing the profile of luxury Chilean Cabernet, says: ‘The challenge now is preserving acidity and freshness, the juiciness of the fruit and elegance, with moderate alcohol. We’ve changed our viticulture to reflect that – we don’t stress the vines any more, and we harvest earlier.’

Winemakers are eschewing overt ripeness and concentration and aiming for balanced wines, with higher, more refreshing acidity, preferring a lighter hand in the cellar and less oak influence. This also means the Cabernet Sauvignon map has expanded to include cooler growing regions that produce fresher styles.

Coming of age

‘When I started as a winemaker, we were told that the Uco Valley was too cool for great Cabernet Sauvignon,’ says Juan Pablo Michelini, whose Altar Uco Cabernet eschews oak ageing in favour of concrete. ‘But we have had a revolution in our winemaking, and now I understand that we can make great Uco Cabernet when we seek elegance. It can be really interesting – not overly exuberant, nor austere; textural but not heavy.’

Contemporary styles of top South American Cabernet are focused and fresh, and although there are still many French hands and purse strings attached to the variety, this shows there’s an ever-increasing commitment to making wines that reflect South America’s own terroirs and winemaking journey. Cabernet Sauvignon from South America has finally come of age.

Top South American Cabernet terroirs

Cabernet Sauvignon is planted in each of South America’s wine countries, from the best known to Ecuador and Paraguay. But it’s not always a good fit. Although there are some promising regions in Uruguay and Brazil (in particular Rivera in the former and Campanha in the latter), the rainy and/or humid climates result in variable vintages.

Cabernet hasn’t made much of a dent in terms of quality wines in Peru or Bolivia, either. It’s in Chile and Argentina that Cabernet Sauvignon has thrived.

Chile

In Chile, Cabernet is king. Here it’s the most-planted variety – with some 37,000ha in the ground, according to SAG, the country’s agriculture and livestock service – and it produces superb wines. Cabernet Sauvignon put Chile on the fine-wine map.

At the heart of this great rise is the multitude of suitable Cabernet terroirs in the centre of the country. Just south of Santiago, Maipo has always been the undisputed heartland of Cabernet Sauvignon – largely influenced by its proximity to the wealth of the capital and within sight of many Bordeaux-obsessed vignerons.

The topography and climate of Maipo lend themselves to top-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The region’s vineyards follow the meandering paths of rivers that have brought stones and silt down from the Andes mountains, leaving terraces of river gravel similar to those seen in Bordeaux. With excellent drainage and access to water, these gravelly soils are ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives during the sunny, dry summers.

In the central part of Maipo, including the Isla de Maipo region, temperatures are more moderate and often cooler on average than in the rest of Maipo, offering gentle red-fruit expressions and softer tannins. The most celebrated terroirs are higher into the Andes foothills, where elevation increases the diurnal range – cooler nights and warmer days – leading to wines of structure and concentration, but also freshness.

Puente Alto, a sub-region of Alto (Upper) Maipo, is considered by many to be the holy grail of Chilean Cabernet terroirs. The three main properties there are arguably the country’s most famous: Viñedo Chadwick, Don Melchor and Almaviva.

However, there are also equally exciting and ageworthy expressions coming from the nearby sub-region of Pirque, as well as Buin, Peñalolén and the Santiago suburb of Macul. A hint of spearmint meddled with juicy cassis and an edgy minerality is typical of Cabernet from Alto Maipo.

There is also Cabernet Sauvignon aplenty to the north in Aconcagua and further south in Cachapoal and Colchagua. The warmer overall temperatures in the central Entre Cordilleras regions (between the eastern coastal mountains and the Andes to the west) make for riper, denser wines, which can often benefit from blending.

There are some notable varietal wines from the Andes regions, too, especially Colchagua’s Los Lingues. Here the higher altitude keeps the wines linear and refreshing, while retaining that trademark core of dense black fruit.

Even further south, Curicó and Maule are often overlooked, but there are some exceptional vines, from the ungrafted 122-year-old vineyard of Miguel Torres to Baettig’s Cabernet, grafted onto 100-year-old País vines half a century ago. The best wines here are nuanced and seductive.

Argentina

Over the Andes in Argentina, Cabernet Sauvignon became more popular in the 1990s but didn’t take off as Malbec did. There do, however, remain several Cabernet strongholds – the most notable being Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza. The Luján de Cuyo districts of Agrelo, Perdriel and Las Compuertas in particular are known for their rich, structured Cabernet wines.

An increasing number of premium Cabernet Sauvignons are coming out of the higher-elevation Uco Valley. Here, a fresher, spicier style is emerging, particularly from Gualtallary, at the valley’s northern end. The Cabernets that really trump the spice game though are those of Salta, in far northern Argentina, at even higher elevation.

These are the most peppery of all, as well as being heady with ripe fruit.

Benchmark Cab: the names to know and wines to seek out

Chile

Baettig

With his enviable flair for elegant Cabernet, Francisco Baettig has been reviving the overlooked region of Maule with a beautiful duo of Cabernet Sauvignons from his eponymous label. Grafted onto centenarian own-rooted vines of País, which provide wisdom and depth – as does this highly talented winemaker.

Carmen

Founded in 1850, Carmen is one of Chile’s oldest wineries and Cabernet has always been a strength. In recent vintages, Carmen Gold has been a star performer of Maipo, with a focus on fresher, floral expressions.

Concha y Toro, Don Melchor

Now celebrating its 35th vintage, Don Melchor is a well-established icon of Chile. For this wine, winemaker Enrique Tirado selects the cream of the Cabernet crop from Concha y Toro’s 12ha vineyard in Puente Alto. Terrunyo, a benchmark everyday Cabernet, comes from vineyards in nearby Pirque.

Cono Sur

Cono Sur is based in Colchagua, but Silencio, one of the top wines in the portfolio, comes from prime plots a little further north in Maipo Andes. The producer’s second label, 20 Barrels, includes a Cabernet Saivignon and is more widely available, particularly in the US, offering a more accessible glimpse into Cono Sur’s rich collection of Cabernet wines.

De Martino

From vineyards in the heart of Isla de Maipo, De Martino’s Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved from the riper style of the 2000s into a stripped-back, classy and understated style. Cuvée is the new icon, while La Cancha remains a classic.

Miguel Torres Chile, Manso de Velasco

One of the most prized vineyards that Spanish winemaking pioneer Miguel Torres discovered when establishing his Chilean outpost from 1979 (the vineyard was purchased in 1984). Winemaker Eduardo Jordán has now divided the ungrafted vineyard planted in 1902 in Curicó into terroir blocks – resulting in a top wine of greater finesse and precision.

San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos

One of the top wines of Viña San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos first came onto the premium scene in 1994. Gabriel Mustakis has been winemaker since 2018 and the most recent vintages are the most exciting, showing brightness and balance.

Santa Rita, Casa Real

Casa Real was one of the early ‘icon’ wines of Chile and has been one of the most admired since its first vintage in 1989. The majority of the fruit comes from old vines planted in the 1970s in Santa Rita’s Alto Jahuel vineyard.

Undurraga

Winemaker Rafael Urrejola makes wines all over Chile and has a special affinity with Cabernet Sauvignon. Top wine Altazor comes from 35-year-old vines in Pirque and has become increasingly refined over time. Terroir Hunter (TH) is one of the best-value Cabernets in Chile.

Viña Quebrada de Macul

A cult Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Chile, this boutique winery is one of the better-kept secrets of Macul. The hillside vineyard was planted in 1970 and French winemaker Jean Pascal Lacaze makes classic, ageworthy wines, including the flagship Domus Aurea and seductive second label Stella Aurea.

Viñedo Chadwick

When Eduardo Chadwick convinced his father to plant over his treasured polo field with vines in 1992, it was a risky move. But the gamble paid off, as this 15ha vineyard now produces one of Chile’s best, increasingly elegant and refined Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Argentina

Altar Uco

Juan Pablo Michelini has spent most of his winemaking life exploring the Uco Valley and Gualtallary. Altar Uco, launched in 2014 with Daniel Kokogian, is his passion project – these are understated yet vibrant wines, with evident mountain freshness.

Bemberg

This is the crème de la crème of the varied vineyard estates of the Bemberg family, owners of Argentina’s largest wine producer Grupo Peñaflor. Winemaker Daniel Pi has selected the best terroirs for each variety; the Cabernet from Cafayate embraces the spicy typicity of the north.

Casarena

Specialising in single-vineyard expressions from Luján de Cuyo, Casarena is refreshing in its vision. The Owen vineyard is an old-vine treasure – 20ha of parral-trained (on pergolas) Cabernet Sauvignon that’s more than 90 years old.

Susana Balbo Wines

Known as the Queen of Torrontés, Susana Balbo is also a long-time disciple of Cabernet Sauvignon. Her winery remains in Luján de Cuyo, but the wines have gradually transitioned to the Uco Valley and to spicier, more nimble, livelier reds.

Viña Cobos

One of Argentina’s first flying winemakers, Paul Hobbs has long been a believer in Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon; although his successes with Malbec and Chardonnay have perhaps obscured that. Nevertheless, he remains one of the top producers in Agrelo, making ageworthy wines.

And the wines… Amanda Barnes reviews 22 benchmark South American Cabernets:

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‘When it comes to Vitis vinifera genetic diversity, the New World could save the Old World.’ This dramatic statement was made in 2023 by Dr Etienne Neethling, a South Africa-born viticulture researcher now working in France.

This view may be surprising, considering the country that’s home to the largest number of native vinifera grape varieties is Italy. But in general, there has been a dramatic reduction in genetic diversity within many of the ‘noble’ grape varieties over the last century.

Today it’s rare to find a commercial vineyard with more than three or four clones of a variety such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

The situation is different in the wine-growing nations generally still referred to as the New World. Argentina, in particular, has remained a sort of Galapagos Island for same-variety Vitis vinifera genetic diversity – for Malbec and a few other varieties.

This is partly due to its economic and political isolation throughout the second half of the 20th century. But it is also because Argentina has continued to plant vines ungrafted, by massal selection – propagating new vines by taking cuttings from the best-quality vine stock – while most of the world moved to grafted clones.

According to Argentina’s national institute for viticulture INV (Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura), about 89% of Argentina’s vineyards are ungrafted and massal-selected; indeed there could be more than 150,000 hectares of ungrafted, massal plantings in Argentina, according to anecdotal evidence from researchers.

If true, this would make Argentina the country with the largest area of ungrafted, massal vineyards in the world.

While France and Italy have begun efforts to preserve massal selections – in some cases even ungrafted massals – even combined they have fewer plantings than Argentina. There are also old vineyards with ungrafted massals in Chile, South Africa, Greece, the Canary Islands, Portugal, Australia, the US and more – but there is no official registry of their surface area.

Grapevine propagation: key terms

Variety: A variation within a species, either naturally (through genetic mutations, natural selection or geographic isolation), or by human design (through long-term selection and propagation). For example, Cabernet Sauvignon is a variety of the species Vitis vinifera.

Clone: A specific iteration of a variety that is vegetatively propagated (through layering or grafting) because of its desirable traits (better taste, disease-resistance, etc) in a given environment. Genetically, clones are identical to the mother vine. 

Clonal selection: A method of vine propagation in which individual grapevines with desirable traits are selected and multiplied by vegetative propagation. A clonally selected vineyard will contain genetically identical vine material. 

Massal selection: A method of vine propagation in which cuttings are taken from a selection of best-performing vines and multiplied through vegetative propagation. A massal-selected vineyard will contain genetically diverse vine material.

Attack of the clones

How did Argentina come to hold so many ungrafted, massal vines? Until the early 2000s, little genetic material entered the country from abroad. In fact, many of the vines planted in Argentina are the descendants of vines imported from France (via Chile) during the 19th century, before the phylloxera bug pest spread out from northern America to devastate vineyards across Europe and eventually the world over.

It was only Argentina’s emergence as a major wine exporter during the 21st century – which prompted the arrival of foreign investors and flying winemakers, coming in from other countries as consultants – that resulted in the importation of modern clones (see above).

I became aware of the dominance of clonal plantings outside Argentina in the early 2000s, due to a chance encounter with Aubert de Villaine of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti at the Naples Wine Auction in Florida. I mentioned that I had been making Luca Pinot Noir in Mendoza since 1999.

He politely enquired: ‘Have you planted the Dijon clones?’ I proudly rattled off: 115, 777, 667, Pommard… He replied that his vineyards were planted with massal selections of Pinot Noir and not with Dijon clones.

Now, massal selection: that was something I could really talk about! It had been our family’s method of planting since my Italian great-grandfather grew his first vines in Mendoza in 1902. What followed was one of the most crucial conversations of my life.

When he heard that we had hundreds of thousands of hectares of massal vineyards in Argentina, de Villaine convinced me that this was extremely special. He wished that he could have massal Pinot Noir vineyards in Burgundy, like we have for Malbec in Argentina.

Natural selection

So how did this situation arise? It started like many other human endeavours, with people trying to improve on nature. Selection of the most productive crops for farming dates back to Neolithic times when early humans transitioned from hunting and gathering to farming.

Plants and seeds were selected with desirable traits such as higher yields, better taste or disease resistance.

Possibly as far back as 10,000 years ago, grape cultivation used massal selections. By the late 1800s, after the initial damage of the phylloxera crisis, American and European viticulturists saved their winemaking regions by grafting Vitis vinifera varieties onto the phylloxera-resistant rootstocks of American vine species.

Grafting required significant technical expertise. The art of massal propagation – whereby a year’s pruning materials would be planted in pots and used to create a new vineyard – was substituted by vine nurseries and a more controlled form of propagation.

In this setting, it made sense to reproduce just a few select clones – qualitative clones that would all ripen at a similar time – of leading varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

From the mid-20th century, planting by massal selection was mostly abandoned and the popular ENTAV clones (standing for Etablissement National Technique pour l’Amelioration de la Viticulture, ENTAV is the globally used French agency set up to identify and administer approved vine clones), including the Pinot Noir Dijon clones, became the symbol of the highest-quality vineyards in the world.

Lack of diversity

After the identification of vineyard viruses around this time, institutions such as FPS (Foundation Plant Services) in the US and INRA (named INRAE since a 2020 merger) in France developed certification programs for single-variety clones.

Virus testing and virus-cleaning of plant material is a complex and expensive endeavour, and it made economic sense to undertake these procedures only for the best clones of each variety. Sadly, virus-infected plant material was often discarded, which means that we have already lost much of the diversity for noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

At the same time, government research institutions around the world began to collect and identify individual cuttings of Vitis vinifera varieties to preserve in regional vine nurseries, taking precautions to keep them free of viruses.

I often refer to these government nurseries as ‘plant zoos’ because the diverse genetic material is preserved in small quantities – maybe six plants per genotype (that is, a particular genetic iteration of a grape variety).

In summary, the ‘clonal era’ of this last century has resulted in the world’s commercial vineyards being planted with a reduced population of individual clones, as opposed to what we have in Argentina – namely thousands of hectares of genetically diverse, ungrafted massal vineyards.

Such a viticultural environment is not without its challenges. In Argentina, threats to production from nematodes and water scarcity may compel producers to replant with virus-free clones and rootstocks. So how can these precious, genetically diverse vineyards and the traditional method of planting by massal selection be preserved?

A special case

Studies by the Catena Institute of Wine have shown that Argentina’s ungrafted, massal Malbec vineyards are special. Their yields are on average 75% lower than those produced by the ubiquitous Côt clones commercially available outside Argentina.

Grown in special places like our Adrianna Vineyard at 1,450m elevation in Gualtallary Monasterio, massal Malbec produces an ageworthy, floral, dark wine, with mineral notes and a unique combination of both rough and silky tannins.

In 1995, the Catena Institute of Wine undertook a selection of 133 Malbec cuttings – 120 from our own Angélica Vineyard (planted in 1924) and 13 from public collections at INTA (Argentina’s national institute of agricultural technology) and the Faculty for Agrarian Sciences – which we have studied and reproduced. We have found that yields can vary by as much as 10 times between the most and least productive Malbec cuttings.

Sugar ripeness in grapes at harvest time can vary by 4° Brix, which could mean a monumental two-point difference in the final alcohol level of the wine made. Veraison time (the onset of ripening, when colour begins to change in black grapes) can differ by up to eight days for two different cuttings in the same terroir.

In difficult vintages, our genetically diverse massal plantings are the most resilient, because a spring frost will result in less damage to vines if they are at different stages of ripening. So it is no surprise that our best Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda wines come from ungrafted, massal vineyards.

Research, current and feature

Other areas of study include the impact of viruses on grafted versus ungrafted vineyards. We’re also considering flavour profile, quality and ageability of wines from massal and clonal vineyards in different terroirs, and researching the epigenetic response (how internal or external stimuli affect genetic response) of vine cuttings to high-altitude terroir.

Our massal vineyard cuttings are unique in both their pre-phylloxera status and in their epigenetic adaptations to our high-altitude climate. It’s also important to consider the wider implications of preserving intra-varietal genetic diversity in the face of climate change – this includes the feasibility of ungrafted vineyards to cope with water scarcity.

Our plans for the future include the Nicolás Catena Viñedo Supersónico. In this isolated, virus-free vine nursery we are preserving genetically diverse selections of Malbec, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Criollas, as well as some specific clones of these and other varieties.

Viejito de Rivadavia Vineyard is another isolated site where we preserve massal selections from old vines rescued from vineyards that are being replanted or pulled out because the land is being sold for housing (sadly, this is an increasingly frequent situation).

This vineyard is purposely not virus-free. As a scientist I am convinced that within the next decade, virus testing and cleaning will become much less expensive; therefore our current priority is to preserve the largest amount of genetically diverse vines rather than clean material.

Finally, we are collaborating with the district of Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, on the 100-year-old vineyards project. Luján de Cuyo boasts the largest concentration of centenarian vines in Argentina, with 150 vineyards covering approximately 1,000ha, according to the INV institute for viticulture.

Together with local researchers, we are working to preserve massal selections of Malbec from these old vineyards that are at significant risk of disappearing. We sign an affidavit with all vineyard owners who are providing us with vine material, stating that if a future generation of their family wants to plant a vineyard, we will provide the cuttings for them.

On becoming a vine doctor

As a young woman studying science, I felt that the best way to help the world using science would be by becoming a medical doctor – which I did, specifically an Accident & Emergency doctor, a profession which I practised for 27 years in the US while at the same time working at the Catena family winery in Argentina.

Today, I am committed to helping to preserve the nature that surrounds us, which includes genetically diverse vineyards that are more resilient to climate change. In this way, I am convinced that I can continue to help people, as a vintner.

It’s my belief that wine in moderation can make our lives more joyful and interesting, and perhaps help alleviate the current loneliness epidemic, by encouraging joyful companionship at the table.

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Dror Nativ MW, Ben Gubbins and Andy Howard MW tasted 52 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 19 Highly Recommended.

South American Merlot: Panel tasting scores

52 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 19

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still red wines labelled as single-varietal Merlot, from any recognised appellation in South America and consisting of a minimum 85% Merlot

Merlot rarely gets the limelight. This is particularly true of Merlot from South America, where signature regional varieties – Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, Uruguayan Tannat – dominate. Merlot is often overlooked, or blended with other varieties.

However, this panel tasting of 52 wines demonstrated that Merlot has the capability to surprise and delight, particularly when sourced from the continent’s cooler regions.

While Tannat accounts for more than a quarter of plantings in Uruguay, Merlot at 615 hectares accounts for about 10%, the third most-planted (INAVI, 2023). Of the six Uruguayan Merlots tasted, the three Highly recommended wines all hail from Maldonado, where cool Atlantic breezes seem to work their magic on this variety.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the South American Merlot panel tasting

The powerhouse

Argentina may be known as a Malbec powerhouse, yet five of the 11 Argentinian Merlots tasted were rated 90-points or more. Two Outstanding wines emerged from the cool south of Patagonia.

Ben Gubbins noted that the Merlots from this region showed a distinct blue-fruit profile. Riccitelli Old Vines Merlot from the Patagonia sub-region of Río Negro stood out for its likeness to cool-climate Syrah, showing beautiful aromas of violets and crushed black pepper. The Otronia 45 Rugientes comes from Patagonia’s wild and windswept Chubut sub-region; its racy acidity and refined style breaks the Merlot mould.

Not unexpectedly, Chile dominated the tasting. At 10,651ha, Merlot is the third most-planted variety here (8.3% of plantings, according to SAG data for 2022), after Cabernet Sauvignon (28.8%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11.2%). The country fared well, with 43% of the 35 Chilean wines scoring 90pts or above.

Two Outstanding Chilean Merlots were uncovered. Cousiño Macul’s Jardín de Macul was celebrated for its combination of hedonistic opulence and ageworthy concentration, dubbed by Andy Howard MW ‘a fine advert for Maipo Andes’ in the inland east of the region.

The Bournet Lapostolle family’s Cuvée Alexandre also impressed the judges with its structure and ageability.

See all the wines from the South American Merlot panel tasting

Cellarworthy

In fact, the capacity of Chilean Merlot to age, alongside its remarkable value, was what most astonished the panel. Gubbins noted: ‘There is definitely something to be said about the ageability of these wines.’ And Howard agreed: ‘I think you can keep them longer than you might suspect.’

Eleven of the Chilean wines tasted were from the 2018-2020 vintages and more than half scored 90pts and above. Incredibly, at the time of tasting, seven were available at less than £15 a bottle: an impressive, and rare, ratio of value to ageworthiness.

South American Merlot may be less fashionable, but in terms of drinkability, ageability and value, it compares very favourably to Merlots from more established regions around the world.

South American Merlot panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Dror Nativ MW is a wine buyer for major retailer Marks & Spencer, responsible for South America as well as Bordeaux, Burgundy, England, Champagne and sparkling wine. Having begun his career in the hospitality sector, he has also worked in varying roles at Hayward Bros, Spar and Sainsbury’s.

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Related articles

• US Merlot: Panel tasting results
• Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2023
• South America’s new flying winemakers plus 12 wines to try

Inside the September 2024 issue of Decanter magazine:

FEATURES

• South America’s great Cabernets The continent’s wine heritage owes much to this popular red grape, as Amanda Barnes reports
• Massal vineyards in Argentina Dr Laura Catena on a unique genetic resource with global significance
• Carmenère in Chile The surprise discovery that sparked a vinous love affair. By Amanda Barnes
• Interview: Leo Erazo The Chilean magician speaks to Patricio Tapia
• Ten reasons to discover Uruguay This little-visited gem has much to offer the travelling wine lover, according to Amanda Barnes
• Vintage report: Napa Cabernet 2021 Jonathan Cristaldi selects 60 top Cab Sauv-based wines from an already legendary Napa vintage
• Roussanne around the world Get to grips with this ‘baffling’ white grape variety, with Matt Walls
• Ribera del Duero This northwest Spanish region is increasingly using the past as a roadmap for its own future, reports Ines Salpico
• Malvasia: a buyer’s guide Caroline Gilby MW unpicks the complex and confusing world of the myriad grape varieties known as Malvasia
• Field blends Marisa Finetti on the joys of mixed-grape vineyards

LEARNING

• Wine wisdom Including our new monthly column on sustainable wine, ‘The ethical drinker’

SPIRITS

• Distilled Spirits and cocktail insights – plus five of the best vodkas for an espresso Martini
• Clear contenders Colourless tequilas are enjoying their day in the sun, reports Clinton Cawood

GOOD LIVING

• Perfect pairing: Fig anchoïade A fruity take on a Provençal classic
• Travel: Provence by train & bike The south of France offers the best ingredients for a low-impact holiday, writes Ben Bernheim
• Travel: São Paulo wine lover’s guide The wine scene in Brazil’s most populous city is flourishing, reveals Sorrel Moseley-Williams

BUYING GUIDE

• Editors’ picks Tasting highlights
• Panel tasting: Sparkling wines of the Americas Our experts found plenty of quality and variety in a wide-ranging bubbly deep dive
• Panel tasting: South American Merlot Still a great choice for excellent-value and fruit-filled reds, including four Outstanding
• Expert’s choice: South America’s premium red blends Alejandro Iglesias recommends 18 blended wines from a continent better known for its single-varietals
• Weekday wines 25 top wines under £20, chosen by the Decanter team
• Weekend wines Priced £20-£50, seven standout buys to impress

COLLECTORS

• Marketwatch investment news Auction news; La Place de Bordeaux; Golden Vines 2024

REGULARS

• Meet the experts Decanter’s authors
• Uncorked News, views & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column The changing face of the Sherry world
• Guest column Melody Wong on life as a female sommelier
• Wine to 5: Ron Scott Wine-industry chief technical officer, at the cutting edge of AI in wine

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The European import Listán Prieto, known in Argentina as Criolla Chica, joined the cast of quality red grapes approved by the country’s Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (INV) in legislation published on 16 August.

It joins better-known counterparts, such as Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Bonarda, in the list of varieties approved for the production and labelling of quality red wine, and can include Geographical Identification (IG) or Denomination of Origin (DOC) classification. All Criolla grapes were so far on the list of approved rosé varieties preventing Argentine producers from producing a lighter style of red, labelled as such. The resolution opens the doors for Argentine wineries to present and export fresher, lighter-hued red for which there is increasing demand.

Timely renaissance

A member of the criolla (creole) family that includes multiple varieties – Cereza, Criolla Grande, Pedro Gimenéz and various Moscatels and Torrontés – commonly grown in South America following the conquista – the pale-skinned big-berry grape has been cultivated in Argentina since the 17th century. From Quebrada de Humahuaca, at 2,600 metres above sea level, to the provinces of Catamarca, San Juan and Mendoza, the variety’s ability to express terroir is appreciated by winemakers. The grape also appeals to a new generation of consumers seeking fresh, lighter wines.

Criolla Chica (also known as País in Chile and Mission in California) has, along with other varieties of the criolla family, experienced an exciting renaissance in the last decade. The Cara Sur project, founded in 2011 by husband-and-wife teams Sebastián Zuccardi and Marcela Manini and Pancho Bugallo and Nuria Año Gargiulo, played a central and pioneering role. ‘After visiting old vineyards around the world, we understood the diversity they bring to viticulture,’ said Bugallo. The two couples started rescuing ancient vines in the Calingasta Valley in 2011; in 2014 Cara Sur bottled its first Criolla Chica from 100-year-old vines in Barreal, and today produces 50,000 bottles.

In 2016, Matías Michelini of Passionate Wines embarked on the same quest after unearthing an 80-year-old trellis vineyard in Uco Valley. According to Michelini, preserving culture and tradition is fundamental. ‘Rescuing vines so old that they are like trees maintains our heritage and honours our forebears,’he says. ‘In these wines you can truly savour the wisdom of the passage of time.’ Michelini has also partnered with winemaker Pancho Lavaque to save historical plots in Calchaquíes Valley, and with Bodega El Bayeh in Quebrada de Humahuaca.

About a decade ago, the Mendoza branch of the National Agricultural Technology Institute (INTA) began recovering criolla varieties. Fast forward to this year and to a collaboration between producers, the INV and the INTA which helped drive the new legislation forward. ‘We’ve been testing the use of Criolla Chica for the production of still and sparkling wine, using different clones,’ explains Jorge Prieto, researcher at the INTA. ‘Several months ago, some producers asked the INV for its records and began gathering more data, until the resolution to incorporate Criolla Chica into IG and DOC was granted.’

Enthusiasm for Criolla Chica has grown slowly but surely, somewhat hindered by the challenges it poses for winemakers accustomed to producing full-bodied reds and unsure how to deal with high tannins in the absence of colour. For others this is what makes the variety so appealing. ‘Its naturally high tannic structure makes it very interesting,’ says Zuccardi. ‘The grapes have but a red blush, but their tannins give them texture.’

Ongoing quest

Criolla Chica is being championed by a growing number of producers – mavericks as well as well-established names.

Cara Sur and Michelini started planting new vines with others following suit. ‘It’s important to preserve genetic information, and these vineyards are amazing living germplasm [genetic resources preserved for breeding, research and/or conservation] banks,’ said Bugallo.

In Paraje Altamira (Uco Valley, Mendoza), Rocamadre’s Juanfa Suárez has been making Criolla Chica aged for six months in used French oak since 2019. His aim is to further explore the variety’s full potential. ‘This spring I’ll be planting Criolla Chica on granite and limestone soils in Altamira. I want to push it to complex, undiscovered heights,’ he said.

In the Uco Valley, Bodega Lagarde, Riccitelli Wines and Cadus harvest the variety in, respectively, Tupungato, Los Chacayes and Vista Flores; Matías Morcos in San Martín and Catena Zapata in Rivadavia lead the movement in Eastern Mendoza, while, further south, Bodega Chacho works with fruit from San Rafael.

To the north of the country, Tacuil and El Esteco produce Criolla Chica in the Calchaquíes Valley IG. Meanwhile, Bodega El Bayeh (with Matías Michelini consulting) and Bodega Kindgard source grapes from vines owned by local families in Quebrada de Humahuaca.

The new legislation has been published and is available in the Argentine government’s official bulletin.

Related articles

•  Tasting South American wine history: The ‘Criolla’ revival
• Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2023
• Exploring the potential of País in Chile plus 10 top bottles to seek out

When the very first vintage blend was finalised for Pangaea – a wine not of any singular terroir, region, or varietal expression but one that is a true global red blend – its founders paused and reflected on the magnitude of what they had created.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for all five vintages of Pangaea

The inception

Before them, spread out amid the blending table were portions of Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa, Merlot from Bordeaux, Petit Verdot from Spain, Cabernet Franc from South Africa, and Malbec from Argentina. Blended altogether, they amounted to a wine much greater than the sum of its parts – a wine that encapsulated a terroir-expression of Earth.

Who in their right mind could imagine such an idea? Blending wine from four different continents and five separate countries? The logistics alone are enough to deter 99.9% of the dreamers and darers. Save for two people – Travis Braithwaite and the maestro of master blenders, Michel Rolland.

‘My job, all my life, has been to create blends between different parcels and varieties, certainly not different countries’, Rolland told me, ‘but it was an idea that I had a long time ago’.

Rolland darts from one blending session in Argentina to one in Bordeaux on the same day, or from Bordeaux straight to Napa Valley. At times, he couldn’t help but imagine if he could take a sample of wine from France and blend it with a component from Napa.

Would it make for a more complete wine?

The conception

When, therefore, Braithwaite rang his office to suggest his own take on the idea, Rolland told him flatly: ‘Blending is no problem; I will do it, but please handle the logistics. The logistics are terrible.’

Braithwaite’s connection to wine is entirely due to his upbringing. Born in Toronto to South African parents who decided to raise him in Stellenbosch, ‘All our friends were winemakers or farm owners,’ says Braithwaite.

After their initial discussions, Braithwaite and Rolland first met in Argentina at Clos de Los Siete, and talked through the idea in more detail.

‘I told Travis that if the wine is average or not good enough, then, we will stop there. A blend needs to be better than all the components,’ Rolland said.

Braithwaite painstakingly gathered samples from around the world, and he and Rolland met again, this time in South Africa. ‘I remember sitting there being so nervous. Theoretically, it should work,’ he recalls.

They spent the day creating different blends and then, as Braithwaite tells it: ‘Finally, we arrived at quite a nice wine.’

Rolland agreed, saying: ‘It’s not just a good wine. It’s an original wine with high marks of quality.’

Braithwaite says he remembers Michel’s exact words: ‘I never thought in my lifetime I would see all these countries in one bottle.’

The world in a bottle

Given the grape sources, ‘everything fluctuates and changes,’ explains Braithwaite, ‘and obviously, we try to represent the strongest wine we can. We harvest all year round, so we have different climactic conditions in five countries to deal with. The strongest varieties will often shine through the wine. So the blend best represents what we get in every vintage.’

It’s hard for consumers to wrap their heads around a global blend at tastings. ‘You’ve never tasted something like it. So what category do you put it into?’ Braithwaite wonders aloud.

First, each wine is made in its own country – harvested, fermented, and barrel-aged. Ageing is anywhere from 12 to 26 months, with wines from the northern hemisphere typically aged longer than those from the southern hemisphere.

When a wine is ready for blending, it is racked into stainless steel barrels and then transported under temperature control by boat or air to a winery in Napa Valley.

Before a wine ever leaves its country of origin, Rolland receives around three samples per variety, per vintage to narrow down the blending components and streamline shipping requirements.

Once gathered in Napa, the final blends are put together by Rolland, Braithwaite, and consultant winemaker Jean Hoefliger (formerly Newton and Alpha Omega, presently AXR, The Debate, Denali, et al.).

Seven vintages and counting

So far they have produced seven vintages – 2015-2023, but did not make wine in 2020 due to the fires in Napa Valley.

The first vintage produced, the 2015 Pangaea, was bottled in September 2017 and released in 2022. Braithwaite says: ‘We have an extended bottle ageing period because, as you can imagine, each variety is so competitive that it takes a while for everything to integrate.’

In 2015, 3,283 bottles were produced, 3,360 in 2016, and 5,000 in 2017 – though smaller volumes were actually released commercially. With the 2018 bottling, some 12,000 bottles were made – half of the blend was Malbec from Argentina. In 2019, production was 9,000 bottles. Braithwaite says production will hover between 8,000 and 12,000 annually.

The wine is only available in packs of three, priced at $1,500 per pack. Single bottles are available for restaurants. Braithwaite says there is a strong direct-to-consumer presence in Germany, Switzerland, Spain, South Africa, Singapore, and now the US, with a growing 10-15% going to wholesale in the on- and off-trades.

When pressed about the challenges, like issues with climate change and mitigating factors for so many harvests, and why go through it all for a wine, Rolland says that after many decades of blending, he needed a good challenge. ‘And Travis is a young guy who tastes wine quite well and has the energy to do this. He wanted to do something totally original.’

The first five vintages of Rolland’s world blend Pangaea

Related articles

• How to blind taste Bordeaux
• Napa Cabernet 2020: Vintage report and top recommendations
• Premium Argentinian Malbec: Panel tasting results

Vino is integral to Argentine culture. Imports can be prohibitively expensive, but – despite Argentina’s volatile economy – domestic wine consumption remains steady. Local wines are even more affordable for international visitors and many vinotecas (wine shops) hold tastings in both English and Portuguese (as well as Spanish, of course).

Over the past five years, many sommeliers have flown their restaurant coops and launched solo projects. These new vinotecas offer expert advice and stock interesting, hard-to-find wines from smaller Argentinian producers whose wines don’t usually reach the larger wine retailers (such as Ligier).

Porteños (as Buenos Aires residents are known) have been particularly captivated by the development of hybrid vinoteca-restaurants – offering wines at retail prices, alongside food. Aldo’s Vinoteca led this initial charge in 2011; Naranjo Bar (@naranjo_bar), a hipster haven serving small plates and eye-catching labels, followed suit in 2020 and a movement has since spawned, including Diviiino’s three locations and Veredita de Vinos. Other worthy mentions include Vinoteca SOIL in Recoleta, Ozono in Parque Patricios and Lo de Joaquín Alberdi in Palermo Soho.

Buenos Aires wine shops: 10 of the best

Anchoíta Cava (@anchoitacava)

Grab a takeaway bottle or be lured inside this compact vinoteca and bar that’s bursting with energy. Renowned sommelier Valeria Mortara leads the dynamic team here (and at sibling restaurant, the Michelin green-star Anchoíta, a block away), serving more than 50 wines by the glass, in-house cured charcuterie and more than 100 cheeses. The street-side tables are bustling with sommeliers keen to hone their palates on Achoíta’s stock of hard-to-find (at least in Argentina) international wines. Pull up a stool inside for a more relaxed vibe. Anchoíta Cava opens from midday, Tuesday to Sunday. No bookings.

La Cava de Lucia

During the pandemic, newly minted sommelier Lucia Cordera curated mixed cases of wines for consumers. She was so successful that she opened a bricks-and-mortar store in 2022 – a stunning, modern space in Las Cañitas, adorned with beautiful artwork and minimalist, Scandi-style furnishings. Cordera organises weekly tastings for consumers, with both boutique producers and traditional wineries. All are paired with cheese and charcuterie, served at an enchanting communal table.

La Cueva de Musu (@mr.wines)

In 2014, wine aficionado Fernando ‘Musu’ Musumeci converted a launderette in the offbeat Caballito neighbourhood and opened La Cueva (the cave), quickly garnering a dedicated following through word of mouth. Musumeci introduced drinkers to a bold new wine world, attracting those who had tired of supermarket offerings. He keeps an eagle eye out for bargains as well as interesting wines from smaller producers, and the lesser-known side projects of winemakers from larger bodegas.

Lardito

Behind the floor-to-ceiling street-side window, lies one of Buenos Aires’ hippest vinotecas, that doubles up as a casual restaurant. Since opening in April 2022, Lardito has inspired a new generation of wine lovers. Book a spot at the impossibly long communal table – made from polished granite and adorned with towering vases of gerberas – or sip on the outdoor patio. The 150-strong selection has been expertly curated by sommeliers Pipe Colloca, Julián Palomieri and Lourdes Calo. ‘Put simply, we stock wines we like – both conventional and unconventional,’ says Collaca. Star dishes for sharing include Japanese tataki and xiaolongbao (Chinese steamed buns).

La Vinícola (@la.vinicola)

La Vinícola is one of (Catena Zapata winemaker) Alejandro Vigil’s many side projects. Stocking more than 1,500 wines, from Argentina’s largest bodegas to small-scale independent projects, it’s located in the heart of trendy Palermo Soho. (There’s also a store in Mendoza.) Led by a team of four sommeliers, it’s directed by Paola Mattera, who always asks aficionados ‘what exactly do you like?’ Try before you buy, enjoying a glass outside on the deck with a plate of cured meats.

Nilson (@nilson.une)

Tucked away in the southern side of the legendary Mercado de San Telmo, this trusted wine shop and bar allows curious punters to soak up the market’s ambience with a glass of something tasty in hand. Sommelier Samantha Nilson is determined to open drinkers’ minds to new styles and varieties. With a list of 20 wines available by the glass (changing weekly), it’s easy to traverse all the colours of Argentina’s wine rainbow here.

Pain et Vin

In a prime location in trendy Palermo Soho, Pain et Vin (Bread and Wine) caters to an international clientele who want to taste the diversity of Argentina’s terroir. Sommelier Eleonora Jezzi opened Pain et Vin in 2013 with her baker husband Ohad Weiner, who kickstarted the local sourdough movement. Keen to educate, Jezzi’s young sommelier team leads two tastings a day in both English and Spanish, delving into the 250-strong cellar selection. The by-the-glass list changes daily and there’s a substantial selection available via Coravin, too.

Tinte

Andy Donadio made a name for herself at Oporto Almacén restaurant a decade ago and was crowned Argentina’s best sommelier in 2022. During Covid, Andy teamed up with Oporto’s Rodrigo Colombres to create Tinte, an online wine store focusing on Argentinian wines. The 300-strong list covers everything from well-known brands such as Catena Zapata to next-gen Pielihueso’s El Gallo Clara, an innovative blend of red, rosé and skin-contact white wines. Tinte also hosts intimate in-person tastings for small groups (up to 12 guests).

Vino El Salvador

Guile Carnevali honed his service skills at top Buenos Aires restaurants including the former World’s 50 Best-ranked Tegui (now closed). He’s since launched Soma and Aurea, two distributors that spotlight small producers. Vino El Salvador (the playful name means ‘Wine is our saviour’), is the direct-to-consumer arm, stocking brands such as Finca Suarez and Onofri, as well as hard-to-find and collector wines. Look out for magnums from Bodega Chacra, Zuccardi and the new kid on the block, Raquis. The store also sources interesting verticals: for example, Noemia J Alberto Malbec (2018–2021), Casa Yagüe Sauvignon Blanc (2018–2021) and Ver Sacrum Geisha de Jade (2016–2022).

Vini Bar (@vini__bar)

Low-intervention labels are at the heart of Vini, a wine bar and store, with a 90-wine list curated by sommelier Luciano Sosto. Favourites include Bodega Chacra’s Syrah and Canopus’ cool-climate Pintom Pinot Noir. Take wines away, or enjoy a flight of whatever’s open that day, watching the world pass by from behind the sash window. Note that Vini is one of few vinotecas to open Mondays (closed on Tuesdays instead).

Winemakers Vinoteca – Bar de Vinos (@winemakers.vinoteca)

Winemakers Vinoteca hosts one of Buenos Aires’ best happy ‘hours’, from 5-8pm daily, offering two-for-one on a selection of 10 wines by the glass. Sommelier Juan Casarsa stocks more than 400 wines, focusing on small producers. The private salon in the back often sees oenologists leading guided tastings; recent guests included Gonzalo Tamagnini of Uco Valley’s Desquiciado Wines.

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Amanda Barnes, Madeleine Stenwreth MW and Dirceu Vianna Junior MW tasted 136 wines with 8 Outstanding and 74 Highly recommended.

Premium Argentinian Malbec: Panel tasting scores

136 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 74

Recommended 44

Commended 2

Fair 8

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release wines labelled as single-varietal Malbec, in which Malbec represents at least 85% of the blend, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$18

You would be surprised at how exciting it can be to taste nearly 140 Malbecs back-to-back. Far from any monotony, there was a compelling diversity of wine styles, regions and expressions in this panel tasting. Proving that premium Malbec remains at the forefront of the evolving face of Argentine wine, the tasting highlighted not only an ever-greater focus on terroir – particularly in the sub-regions of Mendoza’s Uco Valley – but also a quest for freshness and elegance.

‘The best examples displayed excellent varietal definition and a real sense of place,’ commented Dirceu Vianna Junior MW. ‘It is wonderful to see great premium Malbec emerging from all corners of the country, with especially high quality coming out of Mendoza’s Uco Valley and more specifically [Paraje] Altamira.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting

Distinctive regional expressions ranged from the powerful, dark-fruited and mineral examples from San Juan’s Pedernal Valley to the supple yet heady ripe fruits and roasted herb aromas of the Calchaquí Valleys in northern Argentina. Within Mendoza, there was also notable differences between the Uco Valley’s more floral expressions, filled with violets and fresh red fruit, and the inkier, richer wines of Maipú and the structured but bright wines of Luján de Cuyo.

While the Uco Valley dominated the tasting in terms of the number of entries, Madeleine Stenwreth MW was particularly excited by the wines from further afield: ‘There are traditional areas that can make beautiful wines even if they don’t always match the profile of what people expect from Uco… They might be different, but when they are at their best, they are absolutely gorgeous.’

A more restrained approach in the cellar, with less oak influence and fresher fruit expression, allowed the difference in these terroirs to come to the fore. As a panel, we collectively felt that the riper, oakier styles of wine – which were often the most expensive, too – overshadowed regional identity.

See all the wines from the Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting

‘A lot of the wines that are aiming for the higher-end price point are working the wine too hard – with heavy extractions and a lot of oak. You sort of expect that – but it’s boring,’ reflected Stenwreth. ‘Those that do it well hold back on extraction and oak, and allow the place to shine through.’

There were notable stylistic differences, too, from more perfumed and light-bodied expressions to richer, fruit-driven iterations. The differences in style often split us as a panel, eliciting some heated debate! However, what we all agreed on was that this heterogeneity is to be celebrated as it reflects the increasing diversity that wine lovers can expect from Malbec. Today, there’s undoubtedly an expression of Malbec for everyone.

A common thread running through all the wines, on the other hand, was the great drinkability of Malbec – especially in the most recent vintages (2019, 2020, 2021, 2022). ‘A unifying quality that premium Malbec possesses is drinkability,’ concurred Vianna. ‘The vast majority of the wines we tasted were juicy, smooth and easy to enjoy. This is why consumers rightly love Malbec.’

Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes is a writer and presenter specialising in South American travel and wine. A DWWA judge, she is author of the awardwinning South America Wine Guide (£35 www.southamericawineguide.com)

Madeleine Stenwreth MW is an international wine consultant based in Sweden. Prior to setting up her consultancy in 2010, she was quality & product development manager for a leading wine importer in the Nordic market, having also been wine buyer for South Africa and South America at Swedish alcohol monopoly Systembolaget

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant and educator. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors. After becoming a Master of Wine in 2008, he co-authored the awarded book Conheça Vinhos (‘Understanding Wine’, in Portuguese)

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Following record low yields for the 2023 harvest, there were high hopes for a stable 2024 vintage in Argentina – but nature had other plans. Erratic weather resulted in one of the most unpredictable seasons in recent memory.

The Zonda wind – the hot, dry gale that swoops down from the Andes – took an usual turn from September. Pablo Richardi, winemaker at Flechas de los Andes explains that ‘it wasn’t so much the intensity of the Zonda as its persistence. We had three days of wind when the vines were already vulnerable, with tender buds and leaves. The wind reduced the canopy and dried out plant tissues, making them less productive’.

The weather was cool and dry until mid-January when a heat wave saw temperatures hit 40 degrees, hastening ripening in vineyards all around the country. In some places the heat was so intense that vines shut down.

Low yields, but not as low as 2023

Vines were already fragile going into this tricky season, courtesy of the late spring frosts in the preceding vintage. ‘The 2024 harvest produced more fruit than last year, but it was still 15% below average,’ said Germán Di Césare, chief winemaker at Bodega Trivento.

A cool, dry spring in Mendoza and the rest of Cuyo saw significant snowfall accumulate in the Andes mountains. The subsequent snowmelt swelled rivers to a degree not seen in many years. This is significant in Argentina, where the majority of vineyards rely on irrigation.

Perfect balance

Alejandro Vigil, President of Wines of Argentina and the winemaking director at Catena Zapata, said, ‘The 2024 harvest was quite unusual. Although it was hot overall, we experienced “high lows” rather than extremely “high highs”. As a result, sugars that concentrated during the day were consumed overnight, with acidity retained, providing perfect balance. This vintage is extremely encouraging. The incredible whites and reds from high, cool areas remind me a lot of the extraordinary 2021 vintage.’

‘The incredible whites and reds from high, cool areas remind me a lot of the extraordinary 2021 vintage.’

Mendoza

Di Césare reported, ‘The vineyards all across Mendoza are remarkably healthy. Uco Valley sub-regions had their differences, depending on the impact of the preceding season’s frosts and how the vines bounced back. Overall, we saw low yields but excellent concentration among the reds.’

Pablo Durigutti, winemaker at Durigutti Family Winemakers, added, ‘Micro-frosts reduced yields in Las Compuertas in Luján de Cuyo, but we achieved good concentration and typicity in the Malbec. Cool, rainy days were good for ripening. We are seeing silky tannins and well-defined fruit.’

Richardi said, ‘After the January heatwave we expected an early harvest, but actually we were able to wait for just the right time. The first samples are showing moderate levels of alcohol and gentle, rounded, mellow tannins. Lower yields often mean better quality and I think this will be an excellent year, with easygoing, well-rounded wines.’

San Juan

‘In the Pedernal Valley in San Juan, a cold, dry winter was followed by the wind, impacting yields – but not quality. Both whites and reds, especially Malbec, look promising’, said Paula González, winemaker at Pyros Wines.

High-altitude vineyards

In the Calchaquí Valleys, ‘the changing climate and Zonda reduced yields by about 30%’, reported Alejandro Pepa, oenologist at El Esteco.

Thibaut Delmotte, winemaker at Bodega Colomé, said: ‘Early ripening produced fresh, healthy fruit for white wines and the February and March rains ensured balanced ripening for the reds, promising excellent quality and fantastic aromas.’

Patagonia

Down south in Patagonia, Hans Vinding-Diers, owner of Bodega Noemía, said: ‘The rainy winter and windy spring in Río Negro gave way to a roasting January but the harvest went smoothly. The Pinot Noirs in particular are showing surprising elegance and the Malbec and Cabernets appear to have developed perfectly.’

Juliana del Águila, from Bodega del Fin del Mundo in Neuquén, added, ‘the mild winter followed by a cool summer resulted in really healthy fruit. Yields were lower but we are seeing concentrated aromas, colours and flavours, with moderate to low alcohol. The standouts are the Semillón, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec and Syrah.’

The 2024 harvest in Argentina was once again extremely challenging. While quantities may be lower than hoped for, quality looks to be extremely high for both white and red wines.

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To understand the origins of Caro, the flagship wine of producer Bodegas Caro in Mendoza, we must go back to the previous century, when Argentina was just beginning to emerge onto the global wine scene.

Nicolás Catena, the head of Catena Zapata, was leading a local viticultural revolution when he happened to cross paths with Baron Eric de Rothschild, the president of Château Lafite and Domaines Barons de Rothschild (DBR), marking the beginning of a relationship that would merge two winemaking dynasties.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for wines from Bodegas Caro

The Baron was familiar with South America through his winery Viña Los Vascos in Chile but knew very little about Argentinian wines. However, he soon became fascinated with the high-altitude terroirs and century-old vineyards that Mendoza had to offer. After several tastings of Catena Zapata wines and visits to Mendoza, a joint venture was conceived.

The partnership was officially formed in 1999 and by the following year, the first Caro – the name is a combination of the first two letters of both partners’ surnames – wines were being bottled.

‘The idea was to make the best Bordeaux-inspired wine in Argentina, uniting two cultures and varieties, taking advantage of Rothschild’s famous expertise with Cabernet Sauvignon and our family’s speciality, Malbec,’ says Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolás.

The managing director at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2012, she is now in charge of Bodegas Caro alongside Eric’s daughter, Saskia de Rothschild.

The challenge was to produce great wines using grapes from old Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Las Compuertas, Vistalba and Agrelo in the department of Luján de Cuyo, as well as La Consulta, Altamira and Gualtallary, Uco Valley.

The Catena family shared its experience with Malbec and the high-altitude terroirs in Mendoza, while the team led by Eric contributed its savoir-faire with blending and barrel ageing, using its own Bordeaux cooperage, as well as its decades of experience with Cabernet Sauvignon.

However, the journey to winemaking greatness still had some way to go before it was to fulfil Nicolás and Eric’s vision for an authentic grand cru.

Saskia continues the story: ‘Caro was created by a pair of very strong personalities, two men of imagination and intuition, and when that happens, it’s never easy to establish a clear direction of travel, especially when they were both so enthusiastic. They made a great wine, but now we need to think of the future.’

Watershed moment

A quarter of a century after its founding, Bodegas Caro stands on the threshold of producing the grand cru the winery’s creators envisaged.

‘There were significant moments in the history of the winery that reaffirmed the commitment of each family,’ says Laura. ‘For instance, when we harvested the first grapes from the vineyard we planted in Altamira in 2009; or when we restored the family home, which is now Caro’s exclusive winery. However, I think that Saskia taking a leadership role in 2016 brought vital, definitive momentum.’

‘Ever since Laura and I took the reins at the winery, we knew that we needed to find Caro’s identity, meaning we needed a specific place, a team and a terroir,’ says Saskia, who in 2018 was named chair of DBR Lafite and assumed overall control of all the family wineries in France, Chile, Argentina and China.

To consolidate this new direction, in early 2019, Philippe Rolet (formerly at Bodega Argento, also in Mendoza) was appointed as Bodegas Caro’s estate manager and Pablo Serrano (formerly at Moët Hennessy Argentina and Bodega Piattelli in Salta) joined as winemaker.

The duo was tasked with building an exclusive team and finding a terroir that possessed all the characteristics of a grand cru. They received support from Olivier Trégoat, the technical director of all of DBR’s estates. This watershed moment wouldn’t just result in an oenological evolution, but also a passionate search for identity.

Prime territory

The first vineyard dedicated to CARO was Finca 99 in the Uco Valley’s Paraje Altamira, which was planted from scratch with 8ha of Malbec in 2009 (the 99 in the name refers to the birth of the Bodegas Caro project).

It was joined in 2021 by Numa Camille, also in Altamira, with 8ha of Cabernet Sauvignon, which Bodegas Caro purchased after having bought grapes from the original producer for a few years.

‘Although CARO has its own vineyards, we also use grapes from prestigious third-party producers,’ Laura explains. ‘But the Baron used to say to my father that one couldn’t make a grand cru with someone else’s grapes.’

That’s why the decision was made to seek out another terroir that would fulfil three criteria: availability of water, a high-altitude location with a relatively mild but cool climate, and soils that contained active calcium carbonate.

‘Five years ago, we started the search for a vineyard that would bring greater freshness and complexity to our blends,’ says Trégoat. ‘Which is why we focused our efforts on Gualtallary and San Pablo, areas of Uco Valley that are higher than our vineyards in Altamira.’

Eventually, between 2020 and 2021, the choice was made to narrow the search’s focus to the San Pablo Geographic Indication, a terroir that sits between 1,175m and 1,700m above sea level and receives an average annual rainfall of 500mm, twice the average in Mendoza.

Today, San Pablo is one of the most sought-after terroirs in Mendoza because it boasts the coolest, cloudiest and wettest climate in the province, as well as a remarkable variety of soils.

Vineyard for the future

In 2021, after much searching, a 60ha plot of land was bought and named Finca Désiré. The plans for the new vineyard required the taking of 100 separate soil samples, through which seven different profiles were identified.

This helped determine where best to plant the Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that would be key to the future of the winery’s flagship wine, alongside, unusually, Chardonnay.

‘I love white wines, even though I was raised by a father who only drinks reds,’ says Saskia. ‘Also, the conditions here are ideal for Chardonnay and the Catena family has extensive experience making mountain whites. Cabernet Franc grows wonderfully well in San Pablo and will bring plenty of freshness to future vintages.

‘We took climate change into consideration when choosing the location for the future vineyard of Bodegas Caro. A cooler climate allows us to plan for the next 30 years with a degree of confidence, although the resulting conditions can be challenging.’

In mid-November last year, Laura and Saskia planted the vineyard’s very first vines, although the stringent plant selection process means that only a total of 10ha of Malbec have initially gone into the ground.

A sustainable vision

Laura and Saskia share a concern for the environment and the impact of their activities on nature. ‘Finca Désiré is run on ecological lines. The soil is free of agrichemicals, the stakes for the vines are made from natural wood with no impregnated chemicals, and a micro-aspersion irrigation system with a very low environmental impact will be installed to protect against frosts,’ says Saskia.

On the 60ha estate, 25ha will be kept as native forest and biological corridors will connect the natural spaces with water reservoirs in order to preserve the agroecological balance.

In addition, the genetic material to be used at the plantation is the result of several clonal and massal selection processes. that placed an emphasis on organoleptic qualities, potential for adaptation to the terroir and perfect vine health.

Meanwhile, the remaining vineyards at Bodegas Caro are in the process of converting to organics.

‘We are artisans of nature, it is our duty to care for it. In line with initiatives we are implementing across all the DBR Lafite wineries, at Bodegas Caro, care for the environment and sustainability are a priority, and something of an obsession for me,’ says Saskia.

‘Sustainability is a feature that will also be reflected in our wines, as we’ve transitioned to lighter bottles. Even in our labels, we’ve refreshed the design to require fewer processes, thus contributing to a lower energy footprint,’ adds Laura. The pair hope that the Finca Désiré vineyard will also have a beneficial impact on the region.

‘By preserving a significant amount of native forest and adding low-impact vines, we will bring more carbon into the soils than is generally captured by the desert. We hope the estate will have a net positive effect on the ecosystem and soils of San Pablo,’ says Laura. ‘The quest for a Caro grand cru isn’t just an oenological journey, but also a sustainable mission, embarked upon in harmony with nature.’

The way ahead

Laura and Saskia take a long-term view. They both come from outstanding viticultural lineages whose names are synonymous with fine wines but also a place of origin: Bordeaux in Saskia’s case, and Mendoza, Argentina for Laura.

‘It’s very important to us to protect and preserve family legacy, and to do that we need to pay great attention to quality,’ says Laura. ‘It lies at the heart of everything we do: it makes the difference. Making wine is a huge part of my family’s life, and that’s also true of Saskia, and focusing on quality is the best way to protect that tradition.’

Saskia agrees: ‘The wine business is going to change a lot over the next few years. Consumers are drinking better wines and wines are improving across the board. The competition is going to get tough and to stay at the top we need to pursue the best wines we possibly can with sincerity and transparency. Wines are the result of creativity and science; winemaking is an art.

‘That is why we never rest on our laurels and are continuously carrying out new research and innovating. But in an authentic way, not chasing after the latest fad. We’re aware that we need to provide inimitable experiences, and we are known for delivering exactly that. In the case of Caro, our Argentinian side is always very genuine and creative.’

The winemaking process at Caro was always overseen by master winemakers such as Estela Perinetti, Fernando Buscema and Eric Kohler. They didn’t just bring the house’s flagship wine to life but also expanded the range with Petit Caro, Amancaya and Aruma, an unoaked Malbec from the Uco Valley.

‘You might say that after the 2018 vintage there was a notable change in the wines,’ says current winemaker Serrano.

‘We started to work with greater precision on the vinification of each component, looking to enhance the freshness and essence of the vineyards. In addition, the ageing process also required adjustments and we are always testing out innovations to polish and refine the wines still further. The important thing is that we now have a clear vision of the wines we want to bottle.’

‘We’re certain that Caro’s future will be extraordinary, we have great belief in our current oenological team, we have a wonderful winery and now a terroir that fulfils all our requirements for a grand cru,’ concludes Saskia.

The transformation that Caro is undergoing promises to produce wines that capture the essence of a long dreamed-of grand cru, driven by a talented team and the visionary leadership of Saskia de Rothschild and Laura Catena.

Bodegas CARO:

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Daniel Pi needs little introduction for anyone tapped into the wine scene of Argentina. For over 30 years he was at the helm of Grupo Peñaflor, Argentina’s largest wine producer. He has pioneered innovations in winemaking as well as putting new wine regions on the map, ranging from the heights of Catamarca’s Andes mountains to the chilly coastline of Chapadmalal near Buenos Aires. Tireless in his quest to explore and experiment, he is well respected among his peers in Argentina for his humble manner of doing so.

Since the pandemic, however, Pi decided to take leave of Peñaflor, prioritising time with his family and friends. ‘During the pandemic I realised that life is short,’ he confides, ‘and you have to take advantage of your time — it is the most precious thing you have.’ Today he is focused on his own family winery, Tres 14 (a play on pi, 3.14), which he started with his daughter.

But rather than leave Peñaflor completely, Pi agreed to continue on with one sole winery… a brand he built from its inception, in a rather serendipitous way.

Large and small

‘During my 30 years there were many changes in the group,’ Pi explains, looking back at his career. ‘The latest was when the Bemberg family bought Peñaflor in 2010.’ The Bemberg family is known for founding Quilmes – the largest brewery in Argentina – but had not previously been directly involved in Argentinian wine. After the sale, practically overnight, the Bembergs became the family with the most land under vine in Argentina — with an eye-watering 3,700ha of vines today.

‘In 2011 I started to show them effectively what they had bought,’ explains Pi. ‘But I wanted to show them something real rather than just figures… So I started making wines for them to share with family and friends, from the very best parcels of vines that they had.’

Pi had already been identifying the top plots of vines within all of the family’s different territories while working with the brands of Peñaflor. So he began setting aside certain microvinifications to make a collection for the family to get to know the wines of Argentina — and, more importantly, their wines of Argentina. ‘Peñaflor has vineyards from Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south… I made these wines as an imaginary tour through Argentina, using wine as the vehicle,’ he explains.

Pi’s magical wine tour for the family soon became its own diversion. The wines became the pride of the family, and by 2017 they decided to build their own separate family winery and sell the wines to more than just family and friends. Bemberg Family Wines was born. The mandate continued to be to show the best parcels of the family’s vast landholdings, but also to make wines that would stand with the best of the world — and therefore, wines that could age.

Built to last

Pi was one of the first winemakers to push single-vineyard wines in Argentina over 20 years ago, under Trapiche’s Grower Series (now called the Terroir Series).

Today there are many wineries that take you on a terroir tour of Argentina via Malbec. However, while Bemberg Family Wines also offers a convincing terroir tour, what makes Bemberg quite radical is the approach to ageing.

The new release is 2016… There aren’t many wine producers today – either in the New World or the Old — that hold their wines for seven years before release. Indeed all seven of the red wines on new release are the 2016 vintage, while the Chardonnay is 2018.

‘From the beginning, the family and I said that we had to make wines that were already bottle-aged, and capable of long future ageing too,’ says Pi. ‘It was a challenge at first, because I had to think about how the wines would be enjoyed after a few years, and I am also thinking about wines that can cellar for at least another 30 years. That’s the goal,’ he adds.

The wines of Bemberg show Pi’s quiet confidence; indeed these wines are in many ways the epitome of his winemaking experience over the past 30 years. Within the range we also see some of the terroirs that are particularly close to his heart.

Terroir tour

Pi is known for rejuvenating the fortunes of the underdog region of San Juan and his Malbec from Pedernal is nothing short of breathtaking: energetic, tense and succulent. Meanwhile the Malbec from the Chañar Punco vineyard, located at 2,000m altitude – a site he planted in 1998 – is wild and heady, reflective of the altitude and untamed landscape in Catamarca.

One of the standout wines from the new releases is from the north of Argentina: the old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon from Cafayate where Pi worked for many years with El Esteco.

After decades of trying to restrain the intense character of the Cabernet there, which is distinctively peppery and spicy, Pi finally gave in. Instead he came to appreciate that this is the way the terroir and these old vines express themselves. It is perhaps a ‘Marmite wine’ – people will love it or hate it – but for me it holds its head high with bold and vibrant flair.

In the Uco Valley, in particular, we see Pi’s deep exploration of Gualtallary, for both Malbec and Chardonnay, in the relatively new vineyard he planted where the Bemberg winery is built. Incidentally, Pi – an amateur architect – helped to design the winery, which is filled with a playground of winemaking vessels inside, but boasts a sleek and timeless design on the outside.

Pionero blend

Pionero is the top wine of the portfolio and made in tribute to Otto Bemberg, the first generation of the family that moved to Argentina in the 1850s. ‘I was studying what people were drinking in Argentina at that time, to imagine what Otto Bemberg would have drunk,’ explains Pi. ‘Did you know that Argentina was the second-biggest importer of Bordeaux after the UK in the 1860s?’

The wine is therefore his ode to the Right Bank wines of Bordeaux that Argentinians would have been drinking back then – most certainly with a significant amount of Malbec in the blend (before Malbec was replanted with Merlot). It currently feels so youthful that there’s doubt in my mind it will cellar well for another 30 years or more. It is an impressive, classy and subtle blend that will take time to unveil its full character — just as Pi had intended.

Daniel Pi might have started taking more time for himself since the pandemic, but he certainly hasn’t slowed down.

Bemberg: new releases tasted & rated

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Looking back over my tasting highlights of 2023, what really stands out is the growing mastery of South America’s winemakers with the goldilocks varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Limarí and Gualtallary are – in my opinion at least – bonafide ‘grands crus’ for these varieties. However Aconcagua Costa and Malleco are increasingly prevalent too. Tabalí, Reta, Catena Zapata, Errázuriz and Vinos Baettig are notable disciples.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2023

That being said, it was actually the rather more unusual locations that really caught my eye this year.

One of the best Chardonnays I tasted in 2023 came unexpectedly from a boutique producer in Brazil’s emerging Serra do Sudeste region. To the other extreme, deep in Argentinian Patagonia, the world’s southernmost commercial winery, Otronia, has been producing excellent Chardonnay since its first vintage, but it is the new 2021 vintage of Pinot Noir that I found to be a great surprise.

From Chile, I have thoroughly enjoyed drinking Rafael Tirado’s Pinot Noir, which offers excellent value for money and still begs the question as to why he is the lone producer in Maule’s Andes mountains. Another, which is not available outside of Chile yet, is JP Martin’s brilliant Pinot Noir from Huasco… made in the Atacama Desert no less!

Malbec shines

The other variety that has really shone this year is, perhaps less surprisingly, Malbec. I particularly enjoyed the distinctive expressions coming from old vines in Maule, with the wines of Reta and Miguel Torres’ Los Inquietos, as well as the tippy top altitude expressions of Humahuaca in northern Argentina with Cielo Arriba. We have also seen some real leaps in quality in the Uco Valley, which continues to drive forward Argentina’s top wines.

The long-awaited debut release from Altos Las Hormigas’ Jardin Altamira vineyard is one of the best wines I have tasted this year. It can sit proudly alongside the other noble Malbecs coming from Zuccardi, El Enemigo, Catena Zapata and PerSe. These wines reflect Argentina embracing a more Burgundian ethos, while also bravely showing their own distinct personality.

Old vine stars

Other varieties that are rightfully gaining more recognition are the humble, old-vine wines made from Cinsault, País and the Criolla varieties. The beautiful old vines and authentic wines from Chile’s Itata, Bio Bio and Maule Valleys continue to excite me, with producers such as Leo Erazo, Bouchon and Garage Wine Co leading the charge.

Meanwhile the Criolla revolution happening in eastern and northern Mendoza is giving new value to the under-appreciated old vines in the region. Radical bottles from La Cayetana, Lucas Niven, Mariana Onofri and Matias Morcos have kept my glass more than half full this year.

Coastal bottles

There is also a growing confidence and skill among winemakers for making refreshing but also profound maritime wines. Albariño continues to firmly put Uruguay on the vinous map and producers including Familia Deicas, Bouza, Garzón, Cerro del Toro and the edgy new project of Michelini i Mufatto are some of my favourites to look out for.

Meanwhile in Chile, the underdog variety of Syrah is really finding its feet in the coastal regions of San Antonio, Casablanca and Limari. The excellent top wine from Matetic proves how good these wines become with time, if you are patient enough to wait…

Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2023

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A total of 71 establishments made the cut in the Michelin Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2024, with Aramburu, located in the capital’s Recoleta district, awarded two stars for its excellent 18-course haute cuisine tasting menu experience conceived by chef Gonzalo Aramburu for the past 16 years.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guides, noted the high quality of cooks, in particular the up-and-coming generation. ‘Our inspectors were impressed to discover Argentina has a lot of talented and open-minded chefs – and many of them are quite young,’ he said.

The proof was in the pudding: of the six one-stars, two are helmed by sub-30 cooks. At the capital city’s fledgling Trescha, which opened last April, 25-year-old Tomás Treschanski’s experimental 14-course tasting menu is boosted by 740 labels and a 5,000-strong wine cellar that’s managed by head sommelier Pilar Carelli; Treschanski also won the Young Chef prize.

And in Mendoza, 30-year-old Augusto García of Zonda Cocina de Paisaje at Bodega Lagarde celebrates regional produce across four menus, cultivating many herbs and leafy vegetables in the restaurant’s own organic garden. The wine team has the luxury of dipping into the winery’s family cellar to select vintages such as the legendary 1942 Semillón, as well as magnums and double magnums: Zonda also picked up a coveted green star for its approach to sustainability.

Other restaurants headed by young sub-35 talents worth keeping an eye on include Mengano, Anafe, Reliquia, Chui, Niño Gordo, Na Num, Julia, Piedra Pasillo al Fondo, La Carnicería and Ácido in Buenos Aires – the former three given Bib Gourmand awards for good quality and good value – and Mendoza’s Quimera Bistró at Achaval Ferrer winery. Rather than cooking up elaborate tasting menus, they take a casual family-style approach, breaking away from the white-table cloth dining experiences for which Michelin’s inspectors are traditionally known to appreciate.

Mendoza

The guide’s launch proved bountiful for Argentina’s largest wine-producing province. Mendoza is now home to four one-star restaurants, three greens and 15 recommendations. At Casa Vigil, which, like Zonda, took home both red and green stars, chef Iván Azar creates a seasonal and regional menu served up in a vineyard setting, while head sommelier Joaquín Díaz and his 14-strong team browse winemaker Alejandro Vigil’s catalogue of vintages that span El Enemigo and Catena Zapata.

While Argentina is known for its delicious grilled meats, Juan Ventureyra at Riccitelli Bistró prefers to take inspiration from foraging to create a plant-led menu; his approach earned the restaurant a green star. Other winery-located restaurants tipped the Michelin wink included 2023 opening Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, 5 Suelos at Familia Durigutti, Osadía de Crear at Susana Balbo Wines, Fogón at Lagarde, Renacer, and Ruca Malen, all in Luján de Cuyo; Piedra Infinita at Zuccardi in Uco Valley; Espacio Trapiche in Maipú; and Abrasado at Los Toneles and 1884 Francis Mallmann at Escorihuela Gascón in Godoy Cruz.

Meanwhile, independent restaurants Azafrán and Brindillas both received stars, while just one hotel-based establishment, La VidA at SB Winemaker’s House, was recommended.

Buenos Aires

Back in the Argentine capital, 52 establishments received recommendations or stars, with many familiar faces among them. Known for its epic cellar that houses 50,000 wines spanning more than 1,500 labels, Parrilla Don Julio was awarded both green and red stars, while wine director Martín Bruno, a former national sommelier champion, won the Michelin Sommelier prize; sister establishment El Preferido de Palermo also took home a green accolade. Meanwhile, other restaurants with strong wine programmes include Roux, Sucre, Casa Cavia, Anchoíta and Crizia, the latter two green star winners.

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Winemakers in South America are embarking on a new era – one of quiet self-confidence and curious self-discovery, bringing forth some of the most exciting and individual wines yet.

Distinctive regional personality is at the core of this new movement and it highlights a strong departure from the varietal- and style-driven wines that dominated the South American wine scene in the early 2000s. As the role and influence of foreign consultants diminishes, there’s a new breed of ‘flying winemakers’ on the ascent – natives who are shaping the wines and industry in South America, and beyond.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 12 top South American wines

Early lessons learned

South America’s wine industry has been moulded by immigration and intercultural exchange for centuries, but the 1990s and early 2000s witnessed a seismic shift in winemaking technology and viticulture which brought it up to speed with the modernisation happening worldwide. Winemakers, advice, technology and investment poured in from France, Italy, Australia and California, and the wine styles dramatically changed.

The white wines became fresher and fruitier; and the red wines became denser, riper and far richer than ever before. The proliferation of the first small oak barriques in the 1990s quickly overtook the larger – often colossal – foudres and toneles, and the wines soon compared with the richly fruited, fragrantly oak-spiced styles gathering pace elsewhere in the New World and Old.

The formula for sweet, ripe fruit and toasty oak worked, and it is no coincidence that Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Uruguayan Tannat became kings of their respective realms in that same period. ‘The early 2000s were a moment of globalisation,’ says Argentinian winemaker Héctor Durigutti. ‘There was no talk of terroir [then]. We didn’t talk about different valleys, we just talked about Malbec and its recipe at the time: it needed colour, sweet tannins and oak.’

At the hand of numerous international flying winemakers, some being more prolific than others, foreign technology in the vineyard and winery had a monumental impact, and largely one for the better. But this uptake of outside advice was a double-edged sword: ‘In terms of viticulture, the Europeans knew nothing about ungrafted vineyards and we got all kinds of bad advice,’ admits Catena Zapata managing director Laura Catena, whose father Nicolás was a driving force for bringing in some of the first flying winemakers in a bid to elevate Argentina’s wine to compete on the world stage. ‘We were told to remove lots of leaves and advised against our traditional guyot vine training… The results were terrible! Eventually we realised that, for viticulture, you can’t really apply what works elsewhere.’

In Chile the shift was similarly dramatic. Although some positive gains were made in the wineries, as Casablanca winemaking pioneer Pablo Morandé points out, nuances of traditional viticulture and many of the country’s old vines were also lost: ‘I now realise we were wrong about that, and we lost a lot of the wisdom and knowledge of these old vineyards and our traditional, older viticulture techniques.’

The end of the noughties ushered in another shift in thinking – catalysed by the foreign travel experiences of Argentina and Chile’s winemakers and agronomists. South America’s geographical isolation in combination with the almost non-existence of wine imports meant that these trips abroad offered producers an invaluable insight into the greater world of wine.

The difference between being told how their wines fit in a global perspective by others, and the experience of tasting and witnessing the global perspective first-hand was transformative.

Global perspective

There are few winemakers who had a role quite as pivotal or who are quite as well-travelled as Chile’s Marcelo Retamal. Reta, as he is known, has taken an annual month-long sabbatical to visit new wine regions since 1996. ‘I would go to different regions to observe and taste,’ he explains, ‘not to copy from others but to learn about other wines and other traditions.’

After more than a decade of tasting wines in different regions all over the world, he realised that the prevailing trend of wine styles in Chile now left an insipid taste in his mouth.

‘We were making wines that were riper, with lots of alcohol and lots of oak. Even though we were spending more time in the vineyards and looking for new terroirs it didn’t matter – all the wines tasted the same. ‘By 2009, I wasn’t drinking any of the wines I made! I couldn’t bring myself to finish a bottle.’

Reta spearheaded another great shift in Chilean wine styles – one towards dialling down the oak, harvesting earlier for more varietal and regional definition, and interpreting each vineyard with a different understanding. Today, now under his own labels of Reta and Viñedos de Alcohuaz, his wines show incredibly distinctive expressions of Chile’s unique terroirs – from the rugged intensity and brightness in his red wines from high-altitude Alcohuaz to the saline tang and chalky minerality of Chardonnay from the cool coastal desert of Limarí.

Deeper exploration

The lightbulb moment for Catena Zapata also came through their own experiences abroad. ‘We had been advised to make Malbec in the same way as traditional Bordeaux winemaking, using long macerations,’ Laura Catena reflects. ‘But actually it was on a trip to Burgundy when it occurred to us that cool-climate Malbec, with all these floral aromas and soft tannins, was more like Pinot Noir.’

Catena Zapata winemaker Alejandro Vigil not only moved towards using gentler macerations and whole clusters for building complexity, but also restored older traditions and vessels in the cellar. ‘Ever since that trip to Burgundy, I’ve been experimenting with fermentations in neutral oak, so we don’t get any oak sensation in the wines,’ he explains. ‘In fact, I had a local cooper restore 100-year-old [Argentinian] toneles to be used again to make wine in.’

Today, many of the new generation of winemakers approach their wines with an entirely different vision from that offered by foreign consultants in the 1990s and early 2000s. The use of more-neutral vessels including foudres, toneles and concrete has come back into fashion – a far cry from the 200% new French oak (moving the wine from one new oak barrel to another) which was à la mode in the early noughties.

The new tendency towards lower alcohol and higher acidity levels – eschewing the previously widespread trend for achieving concentration through hydric stress of the vines, or the saignée method of ‘bleeding off’ a fraction of the wine during maceration – also harks back to pre-1990s.

The greater exploration that South American winemakers have made in other wine regions around the world has conversely initiated a deeper exploration of their own home terroirs and wine history. It also set the scene for a new wave of South American wine consultants.

On the road & in the air

If there were a prize for winemakers producing wines in the most extreme situations and vineyards in South America, it would surely go to Argentina’s Alejandro Sejanovich. Known as ‘Colo’, he can be found chewing grapes across the most diverse spectrum of Argentina’s vineyards – from the incredible heights of Humahuaca at 2,700m elevation in Jujuy, in the far north, to the virgin terroir of Uspallata just a stone’s throw from mount Aconcagua in Mendoza, to the many micro-terroirs of the Uco Valley. His latest chapter has taken him beyond Argentina to make wines in Spain’s Navarra and between the sand dunes of Ica, Peru. The name of his wine brand, Mil Suelos – meaning ‘a thousand soils’ – is certainly apt, if not an understatement, for the number of different terroirs he works in.

Today Sejanovich is a leading proponent of Argentina’s contemporary wine styles, consulting to projects across the country. Like the team at Catena Zapata, he had a lightbulb moment at the end of the noughties. After almost two decades making what he describes as ‘New World-style wines, where bigger was better’, he tired of style trumping regionality. When he started his own label with business partner Jeff Mausbach in 2010, he focused on a different approach. ‘We wanted to show the different places through the wines; to make wines that reflected places not grape varieties,’ he says.

When showing those first vintages, Sejanovich made a point of never talking about the vinification, only about the vineyard. ‘Buyers and journalists thought I was mad… they wanted to know if I had achieved concentration through saignée, or about the time spent in which type of barrel. But it wasn’t about that – it is all about finding the balance for the wine in the vineyard.’

Finding that balance is a combination of intuition, experience and regional wisdom. The 2023 vintage marked his 30th, but Sejanovich is humble about his journey of discovery on his home turf, clarifying that each vineyard demands a unique approach and teaches you something new. ‘To make high-quality wines we need detail,’ he explains, adding that he only makes wine somewhere if he has a local partner with eyes and ears constantly on the ground. ‘We need to know what’s happening with the climate every single day to make the right decisions together.’

His winemaking philosophy is about maximising the expression of the terroir in each wine. For him that means adding more from the vineyard and less from outside it. ‘The terroir is expressed in the grapes but also in the stems,’ he says. ‘When you have high-quality vineyards you get very high-quality grape stems, and the flavour of those stems changes depending on the place and the vintage. Each year I will make a decision about the proportion of the stems to include based on the flavours and aromas. It isn’t about following a recipe, it is about taking time to understand places and vineyards. And we have an advantage here in that we have some amazing terroirs to show.’

The focus on regionality is driving the wine scene in Argentina, and to a lesser extent Chile and Uruguay, today. Winemakers such as Sejanovich, Alejandro Vigil, Sebastián Zuccardi, Matías Riccitelli, Daniel Pi, Edy del Popolo and Martin Kaiser are at the forefront of distinguishing particularities of single plots. A cru, rather than château, concept is rising.

Philosophy of place

While the winemakers of this South American new wave are travelling more than ever before, it is much more than a game of collecting passport stamps. The thrilling project of Michelini i Mufatto – wines made by Andrea Mufatto and Gerardo Michelini with their son Manuel Michelini in Argentina, Uruguay and Spain – is a great reflection of this growing movement. Their philosophy to make wines in different countries is not about flying visits, but about feeling connected to each place and living there for part of the year. ‘Our philosophy as winemakers is the same as our philosophy as a family,’ explains Mufatto. ‘We live through the whole process – and so we choose only to make the wines in the places that we can comfortably live in, and be part of.’

Each of their three ‘homes’ – Tupungato in Argentina’s Uco Valley, Garzón in Maldonado, Uruguay, and Bierzo in León, northwest Spain – is in a rural area with a strong village life steeped in tradition and culture. ‘It isn’t really about the quality of the grapes, but about the quality of the life – the climate, the surroundings, the culture, the people,’ says Michelini. ‘We have to be there to be present and take the pulse of the place each year, to feel how the rain and weather has been and see how the flowering and vine leaves are.’

Since 2015, the family has been spending almost half the year in Bierzo and the rest in the Uco Valley. In 2020, they started making wines in Uruguay, too, as they were frequently there on summer holidays and fell for the ‘strength of the sea, and making saline, coastal wines’.

Michelini i Mufatto conveys a deep sense of intuition. Winemaking is stripped back and simple, using combinations of cement, oak barrels and foudres. They follow a minimal intervention philosophy in the cellar, relying on the quality of the grapes, moment of harvest and patience of ageing to lend character to the wines.

The experience of making wine abroad has profoundly changed them, and they credit the fine-tuning of their processes in each region to conversations with locals. ‘We never work to a formula,’ insists Mufatto. ‘Instead it is like a constant school of learning, through participating in and being part of the place, and talking to everyone in the village. We are learning from the older generations, who can teach you so much about their terroir.’

Looking back to go forward

Learning from elders in the village is also a concept Chilean winemaker Leo Erazo has taken at the core of his work. After several years of working on harvests and studying in Spain, France, Germany, Australia, New Zealand, California and South Africa, Erazo returned to South America and has been a winemaker on both sides of the Andes for more than 15 years. Although his work in Mendoza, now under his own label Tutu, has largely been with new vines and wine regions, in Itata it is the reverse – with vines that date up to 225 years old.

‘We used to learn or get taught a recipe for viticulture and winemaking – a “one size fits all” model,’ reflects Erazo. ‘But today I realise you can learn most from the people living in the vineyard. They are an incredible source of information.’ Combining local wisdom with his experience and research, Erazo is mapping out what he believes to be the top old-vine ‘crus’ in Itata. As reflected in his A Los Viñateros Bravos, though the winemaking can be the same, certain crus – whether planted to País or Cinsault or as field blends – have a certain finesse that stands out.

Erazo is one of a handful of South American winemakers inspiring a renaissance in artisanal wines from the plethora of old vines. Along with the likes of Marcelo Retamal, Pablo Morandé, Héctor and Pablo Durigutti, Eduardo Jordán, Roberto Henríquez, Lucas Niven, Germán Masera and Christian Sepúlveda, to name a few, it is South America’s own winemakers who have inspired a new appreciation of these long-overlooked wine regions and varieties. Lessons from ancestral viticulture are being reintegrated into the status quo, with a revival of ancient field blends and polyculture yielding particularly interesting results.

Whether it is in exploring old vines and historic regions, or pioneering new varieties and virgin terroirs, there is a self-confidence rippling through the South American wine scene which is scintillating. This era of intrepid introspection, with winemakers adventuring further to learn lessons from afar, but also foraging deeper in their own terroirs and history, is making the wines soar to new and thrilling heights. Perhaps most importantly of all, these wines taste like they couldn’t come from anywhere else.

New era, new wines: Amanda Barnes’ mixed dozen from South America

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There are said to be about 880 bodegas in Mendoza, ensuring that Argentina’s elevated western province has long been a destination of choice for wine lovers. Vineyards here range from about 430m to 2,000m altitude, and while Malbec rules the roost, an ever-growing cast of varieties such as Semillon, Pinot Noir and the Criolla grapes (principally Torrontés, Criolla Chica, Criolla Grande and Cereza) means there’s plenty for wine-curious travellers to savour beyond the headline-act red.

Whether it’s horseback riding over the Andes or matching chocolate with wine, 300 days of sun and exciting wine-related activities keep visitors returning to key wine regions Maipú, Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley. Late summer (early March) welcomes the arrival of the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia grape harvest festival, while in winter (peak season July to September) powder lovers can hit Las Leñas’ slopes, and après-ski on Malbec.

Mendoza: The facts

According to Wines of Argentina’s 2021 annual report, Mendoza produced 76% of all Argentinian wine across its 146,815ha, cultivating some 39,250ha of Malbec (20% of the national total). The other most widespread varieties included Bonarda (about 14,800ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (10,500ha) and the Criollas (12,500ha combined, mostly Criolla Grande).

Languid paired tasting menus have long tempted foodies, but Mendoza’s dining scene has rocketed over the past few years to claim the title of Argentina’s most diverse food region (after capital Buenos Aires). Celebrity chef Francis Mallmann (@francismallmann) has long been associated with Mendoza, his open-fire techniques creating a show of their own. While the asado (barbecue) experience is guaranteed t0 please, a new wave of chefs is captivating palates putting wine first and showcasing star local products such as heirloom tomatoes and Andean native potatoes; veggie-led menus are finally in fashion.

A slew of restaurants has opened – and not just in bodegas. The glorious Andes range lends itself to outdoor dining experiences at restaurants such as Cundo (@cundoaltamira) and Ruda (@ruda.cocina) in Uco Valley, and Chirivia (@_chirivia) in Potrerillos. But 2023’s most anticipated launch was Angélica – Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata.

There’s more good news given that this surge in dining spots is being matched by hospitality. Recent openings include acclaimed winemaker Susana Balbo’s SB Winemaker’s House & Spa Suites in Chacras de Coria and La Morada in the Uco Valley; these offer comfy accommodation to suit all budgets.

One of the global Great Wine Capitals network and the host in October 2022 of the World’s Best Vineyards awards, Mendoza should be high on your list of must-visit wine destinations. With the five-day guide that follows, travellers can visit both traditional and contemporary bodegas while soaking up the ultimate in wine lifestyle…

Day 1: Maipú

To the south of central Mendoza city, the eastern department of Maipú is where European varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec began to be cultivated in the mid-19th century, spurred on by a surge in immigration, particularly from Italy from the 1880s onwards: Maipú and Luján de Cuyo together are known as the Primera Zona (‘first zone’). While it’s usually considered that Mendoza produces mountain wines, Maipú is its lowest-elevated district, topping out at a relatively rather lowly 700m-940m above sea level.

While Maipú is often overlooked for being distant from downtown Mendoza, its quiet country roads lined with peach orchards, olive groves and vineyards are a breath of fresh air. Open farmlands mean wineries aren’t rubbing elbows; it can take half an hour to drive between them, so hire a car (Mendoza’s signage has come on significantly in the past three years), or even a driver, as taxis can be scarce. If you’re staying in Mendoza city, you can hop on the Metrotranvía tram; alight at Gutiérrez station – just across the road is the well-located Wine and Ride, where you can hire bikes and staff will help to plan a tour of local vineyards and wineries to suit your agenda. Another alternative is the hop-on, hop-off Bus Vitivinícola, which offers half and full-day options.

Among its cluster of at least century-old bodegas, just a handful in Mendoza still use foudres of 40,000 litres or more – close to the tram station, Bodegas López, founded in 1898, is one of them. Fourth-generation winemaking director Carlos López and his brother Eduardo, general manager, respect tradition by continuing to create cask-aged Bordeaux-style reds, while driving forward with a line of daily drinkers including Sauvignon Blanc.

A top seller is Montchenot, a range of old-vine blends dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with bottlings cask-aged for five, 10, 15, 20 years or more. A free guided visit makes for a fascinating history lesson, while other tour and tasting packages are available, from about £5-£50; for an additional class, visit the Museo del Vino y la Vendimia museum a short distance away along Calle Ozamis. Other top Maipú tastings include Bodega Trapiche, housed in its impressive 1912 Florentine-style building along Calle Nueva Mayorga, while Luigi Bosca, further out along Ruta 60, recently converted its centenarian Finca El Paraíso property into a restaurant, headed by chef Pablo del Río. Mil Suelos (@milsuelos) is also due to open a parrilla experience – cooking large cuts of meat on a metal grate over an open wood fire – later this year.

Santa Julia’s story is more contemporary but no less legendary. When José Zuccardi developed a new irrigation system, he began cultivating vineyards in eastern Maipú district Santa Rosa in 1963 to showcase it. Taking up the baton from his father, José Alberto began to cultivate high-quality grape varieties such as Tempranillo in 1982, naming that project after his daughter.

Today, Julia Zuccardi is responsible for tourism and hospitality, while her brother Sebastián is winemaking director at the certified organic winery. Aesthetes will enjoy browsing works by Mendoza-based artists, while the more active can tour the estate by bike. It counts two restaurants: enjoy a picnic or a full-blown asado experience at Casa del Visitante; its empanadas (filled pastry pockets) were named Argentina’s best in 2018. Meanwhile, Pan y Oliva uses extra virgin olive oil in every dish, the ideal vehicle to showcase Zuelo, youngest sibling Miguel’s line of liquid gold.

Where to eat

Choose from one of nine El Enemigo pairings to accompany a three-course lunch or dinner at Casa Vigil close to the Mendoza river near El Paraíso.

Where to stay

Well-appointed suites and log fires await at Hotel Club Tapiz, a delightful former governor’s home built in 1890.

Day 2: Luján de Cuyo

The western side of Primera Zona, Luján de Cuyo lends its name to one of two denominación de origen controlada (DOC) zones in Mendoza, while harbouring sub-districts including the Geographical Indications (GI) Agrelo, Las Compuertas and Vistalba. Its central hub is Chacras de Coria, former vineyards and farms gobbled up by private housing estates.

Regardless, Luján is home to a wide array of bodegas, such as vigneron Carmelo Patti’s authentically rustic cellar door on San Martín, where you can sample Bordeaux-style blends, or the recently opened Anaia Wines in Agrelo, about 20 minutes by road south on San Martín – here, in a tribute to the national tea drink, the producer has developed the first mate gourd-shaped concrete fermentation tanks.

Given the urban proximity, activities are located closer together, so those looking to burn off a few wine calories can pedal to tastings. Elevation is very gradual, so there’s no real need for a mountain bike; maps guiding you to the likes of Alta Vista, Clos de Chacras and Viamonte are provided when you rent from Vistalba Bikes on Embalse Potrerillos.

Luján is home to a second Mendoza bodega that focuses on traditional winemaking. Though its building was constructed in 1890, the Weinert family takes pride in the art of cooperage, restoring old casks at Weinert Bodegas y Cavas, which was founded in 1975. After visiting the red-brick cellars and beautifully crafted toneles casks, enjoy a vertical tasting that, if you’re in luck with your timing, could even include a 1977 Malbec.

At the other end of the winemaking spectrum you’ll find Riccitelli Wines in Las Compuertas on the western edge of Luján. Matías Riccitelli is both playful and serious, sourcing old-vine Chenin Blanc and Merlot from Río Negro, Patagonia, while also creating the low-intervention and pét-nat range Kung Fu, which gets snapped up by the Buenos Aires hipster drinking set. Book a tasting and a table at the bistro, helmed by passionate seed collector Juan Ventureyra, whose plant-focused lunch menu is a refreshing break from asado.

Recent restaurant-in-bodega openings include chef Francis Mallmann’s outdoor dining experience Ramos Generales at Kaiken off Roque Sáenz Peña; La Jamonería at Vistalba, nearby, further along the main road; and in the same area, new for 2023, enjoy charcuterie pairing at Mauricio Vegetti’s La Bodeguita at Lui Wines (@luiwines).

As many wineries only open for lunch, Brindillas restaurant in Chacras is great intel for a dinner date, while a 15-minute drive north in Godoy Cruz is Planta Uno. Here, Bodega Lagarde’s Sofía Pescarmona overhauled a former metals factory to create a well-curated indoor food hall that includes wine bars and small eateries, avoids big brand names and, importantly, opens until 1am.

Where to eat

At 5 Suelos – Cocina de Finca in Las Compuertas, chef Patricia Courtois recounts Argentina’s history paired with the Durigutti brothers’ wines on her 14-course Menú Historia.

Where to stay

A welcome massage and in-room sauna is the first step to relaxing bliss at SB Winemaker’s House & Spa Suites, Mendoza’s most illustrious 2022 hotel opening, which includes La VidA restaurant.

Day 3: Agrelo

Cross Ruta 7 – the road linking the Atlantic ocean with the Pacific – to Agrelo, in the southern part of Luján de Cuyo. Home to a host of big-name wineries located at about 950m elevation, take your pick of fabulous vintages in a vineyard-to-glass situation, because the options are numerous and the wineries again in relatively close proximity, mostly off Ruta 7. You can opt to tuck into a paired lunch at Ruca Malen, a picnic at Espacio Crios, farm-picked pistachios at Caelum, a bubbly bistro lunch at Chandon, or a biodynamic tasting at Chakana. Remember all bodegas require advance reservations.

Two Agrelo top guns are Viña Cobos and Catena Zapata – named World’s Best Vineyard 2023 – located a 10-minute drive away. There are two carefully curated tastings at Paul Hobbs-run Cobos, now on its 25th vintage: and now Angélica – Cocina Maestra gives it some architectural competition in the shape of a majestic Italian-style villa complete with watchtower and basement distillery. Throwing open its mighty glass and steel doors in February 2023, the Catena family’s many award-winning vintages take centre stage at its first venture into hospitality beyond tastings – fourth-generation managing director Laura Catena and winemaker Alejandro Vigil join forces to challenge chef Iván Azar to match dishes to wine.

Other recent Agrelo openings include Quimera (@quimerabistro), just off Ruta 7, from Achaval Ferrer, whose culinary approach combines a farm-to-table concept with fire. If you’re keen to squeeze in more tastings and eat on the hop, grab a home-cured ham sandwich at the food truck where Ruta 7 meets Cobos street. An unexpected experience is Las Palapas, housed next to vineyards and the scenic Potrerillos dam, a cool Sunday afternoon electronic music party that attracts internationally reputed DJs.

Where to eat

Enjoy a hands-on dining experience picking your salad and crimping empanadas before savouring the lunchtime fine dining menu at Zonda.

Where to stay

Book a luxurious villa among vineyards then chill at the spa after a hard day’s tasting at Cavas Wine Lodge, Mendoza’s only Relais & Châteaux property.

Day 4: Uco Valley

From Chacras de Coria, it’s a 60- to 90-minute drive south to Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos, the Uco Valley’s three principal departments, where snow-capped mountains dominate the landscape. Seeing the 6,570m-high Tupungato volcano means Uco is within reach and a chance to get closer to nature – and the Andes.

Grapes and orchard fruits have long been cultivated in the valley and Salentein was a pioneer in making wine at high elevation in Tunuyán in the late 1990s; located on Ruta 89, the bodega boasts majestic architecture to complement its world-class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Malbec. Within the estate, stop by Killka gallery, whose exhibits bring together Argentinian and Dutch artists.

A five-minute drive from Salentein is Domaine Bousquet, a certified organic bodega that also produces kosher Malbec; ask to sample it on the one-hour guided visit. As sustainability is Domaine Bousquet’s main philosophy, the seasonal menu at its restaurant, Gaia, is strictly organic, chef Adrián Baggio sourcing many ingredients from the winery’s orchard.

In nearby Gualtallary, winemaker Matías Michelini’s Sitio La Estocada is a lesson in biodynamic agriculture. Helped by grazing animals, Matías’ family tend the vineyards from which he sources grapes for his Passionate Wine range. An experiential gem is the lunar cycle dinner, on full and new moon nights.

Half an hour’s drive away on Ruta 94, The Vines of Mendoza has grown so exponentially since conceiving its private vineyard project – enabling members of the public to realise their dream of owning a vineyard and making premium-quality wine – it now houses successful spin-off winery projects spawned from the original idea, namely Corazón del Sol and SoloContigo. SuperUco, the joint Michelini brothers project, is also based here; all three are open to the public. A recent addition to the Vines project is Mitre Fortín distillery, the producer (in a different location) of Principe de los Apostoles, Argentina’s first premium gin brand.

A lovely wining and dining alternative is to mount a four-legged friend for a mountainous expedition. The gauchos from the Cabalgatas de la Quebrada del Cóndor (@quebradadelcondor) lead small groups through cattle pasture and into the Andes on relaxed steeds that might huff and puff on steeper slopes. The view from the top is incredible, proffering a true feel of the valley’s breadth. Ride it or trek it – if you’ve worked up an appetite, asado (and a glass of vino) awaits at the log cabin.

Where to eat

Breathe in fresh mountain air while clapping along to contagious live folk music, paired with empanadas, at the charming Bodega La Azul.

Where to stay

Luxury hospitality pioneers in Uco, many of The Vines of Mendoza’s spacious villas have fabulous Andean views; take your swimwear so you can enjoy a dip in the outdoor jacuzzi.

Day 5: San Carlos & Vista Flores

When a bodega picks up the World’s Best Vineyard prize three consecutive times, you ought to squeeze everything you can from it. That accolade went to family-run winery Zuccardi Valle de Uco in Paraje Altamira, San Carlos, between 2019 and 2021. It’s fair to say third-generation winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi improves with age: his Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal 2018 recently picked up 100 Parker points. Flavour-neutral concrete egg tanks let the vineyard parcels do the talking, while marvellous Andean views and succulent T-bone steaks are calling at Piedra Infinita restaurant; you can easily spend a day savouring a guided visit, tasting and paired lunch.

Another nearby estate where you can while away a day wining and dining is the Michel Rolland-founded Clos de los Siete, which houses the wineries of Flecha de los Andes, Monteviejo, Cuvelier Los Andes and Diamandes. An ambitious winery project, Clos de los Siete involves the four bodegas, run by four Bordeaux families and encompassing 850ha of vineyards, contributing elements to a single Bordeaux-style blend, while also making their own wines. And if you’re in need of 360° panoramas, drop Gabriel Dvoskin of Canopus Vinos a line. His low-intervention, cool-climate Pintom Pinot Noir and Y La Nave Va Malbec from El Cepillo have been exciting Argentinian sommeliers for years; given that he hosts sporadic yet intimate vineyard tastings – conducted with as little embellishment as his vintages – it’s worth getting in touch.

Where to eat

Whatever the weather, wrap up warmly for an al fresco lunch at Cundo, not far from Zuccardi just outside La Consulta, where chef Seba Juez prepares a classy six-course Uco-focused menu.

Where to stay

Check into a vineyard home at La Morada Lodge, just west of Vista Flores, where the cellars are stocked by top sommelier Andrés Rosberg, then toast the peace of Los Chacayes.

How to get there

There are numerous daily flights from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery in Buenos Aires to Mendoza. Flight time is around 90 minutes. Hire a car at Mendoza’s El Plumerillo airport; it’s a 30-minute drive to Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, 90 minutes to the Uco Valley.

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About 20 years ago, Argentina saw the first stirrings of what would become known as the ‘terroir revolution’. During this time, wineries began to carry out in-depth studies of their vineyards to gain a better understanding of the effect the local conditions had on their wines.

This meant that it became useful for labels to state an exact place of origin, to indicate what drinkers might expect of the terroir-imbued character of the wines.

In 1999, the National Institute of Viticulture of Argentina (NIV) began a programme of Geographic Indications (GI) based around existing political boundaries – namely provinces, departments and districts. However, those demarcations did not necessarily align with the natural boundaries responsible for lending wines their distinctive profiles.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 20 spectacular Paraje Altamira wines

Luis Reginato, head of vineyards at Catena Zapata, remembers: ‘We were enthusiastic about the idea of putting the exact origins of the grapes on the label. At the time, you could put “Mendoza, Argentina”, or maybe “Uco Valley”, but we knew that the Uco Valley has a range of diverse climates and soils, and so we started a study programme to gather information and knowledge that we’d never had before.’

During this process, Paraje Altamira GI was created, a milestone in the history of Argentinian wine – and one of the new and most exciting ‘grand crus’ in South America.

The Paraje Altamira example

‘The work we did to create the Paraje Altamira GI was essential. We’d never studied the climate, soils and geological origins of a specific place in such detail, and we worked in partnership with distinguished experts and institutions,’ says Hervé Birnie-Scott, estate director at Terrazas de los Andes.

The spur came in 2010, when the wineries Catena Zapata, Familia Zuccardi and Chandon (Terrazas de los Andes) invited the Universidad Nacional de Cuyo to run the research programme and present the results to the NIV. But there were further obstacles that needed to be resolved first.

‘Altamira had two issues that we had to deal with,’ says Sebastián Zuccardi. ‘ The name was registered as a trademark and we couldn’t use it. Also, it didn’t have any geographic boundaries; it was an area within the District of La Consulta (Department of San Carlos, Uco Valley).

The quality of the vineyards had earned them their own name among the locals: “Altamira”. We all knew that we needed to start promoting the place so we commissioned the most detailed studies possible to show the NIV that the region had its own distinctive characteristics.’

The studies included soil mapping, geological information, satellite imagery and the assaying of hundreds of soil samples to show that the area studied – designated as ‘Altamira’ – shared a set of characteristics that differentiated it from neighbouring areas. This would allow a new GI border to be drawn up. It was then that the leaders of the initiative came up with the idea of adding ‘Paraje’ (a local term for settlement or village) to differentiate it from the trademark.

Eventually, in 2013, the GI was approved and since 2014 it has been permitted to put the term on the labels of wines from the area.

Paraje Altamira GI: The facts

Location San Carlos Department, Uco Valley, Mendoza

Altitude 975m-1,097m

Total area 7,472ha

Cultivated area 2,733ha

Climate Continental, dry, sunny, significant thermal amplitude (Winkler III)

Soils Alluvial, heterogenous, stony soils rich in calcium carbonate

Main grapes Malbec 65%; Cabernet Sauvignon 15%; Chardonnay 6%; Pinot Noir 4%; Syrah 3%; Cabernet Franc 2%; Merlot 2%; Sauvignon Blanc 1,5% & Semillon 0.5%

Where is Paraje Altamira?

Paraje Altamira is a village located in San Carlos, a department to the south of the Uco Valley. It encompasses 2,733ha of vineyards in the southern alluvial cone of the Tunuyán River. This is what lends the area its defining characteristic: heterogenous, stony soils rich in calcium carbonate.

‘Paraje Altamira is the highest part of the alluvial cone of the Tunuyán River and also the highest part of La Consulta,’ says the geophysicist and educator Guillermo Corona, the author of the book Geografía del Vino (‘A Geography of Wine’).

‘The main difference between the two sectors is that in Altamira the stones coated in calcium carbonate are found closer to the surface, and so come into direct contact with the roots of the vines. That doesn’t happen in La Consulta, where the soils are deeper and are more sandy-loam based. The soils are the key factor, not the climate, because the slope is shallow and there’s not a great difference in height,’ he explains.

Reginato adds: ‘The vineyards in Paraje Altamira tend to be north-facing and so are more exposed to the sun. They’re planted at a height of between 975m and 1,097m, in dry conditions like the rest of the Mendoza, with a significant thermal amplitude; the temperatures plunge at night.’

Grape vines and other fruit have been grown here since the 20th century and were always famous for their quality. ‘A secondary factor is over a century of flood irrigation, which means that the soils have a greater amount of limestone on the surface. The vineyards planted in the last 20 years, in virgin soils, use drip irrigation in stonier soils. They also interact with the local flora,’ concludes Corona.

High-quality wines

‘The historic quality of the grapes and wines in this area was what motivated us to work on the creation of the GI,’ says Birnie-Scott. ‘Terrazas de los Andes regards it as a modern classic of the Uco Valley. Classic in the sense that it’s balanced and harmonious, delivering intensity and complex aromatic profiles with dark fruit and lots of spice, power and precise tannins in the mouth – and excellent ageing potential.’

Leading winemakers in the area include Sebastián Zuccardi and his Finca Piedra Infinita vineyard whose 38ha are divided into 36 parcels due to the vast range of soil types found at the foot of the Andes. ‘The Malbecs stand out for their red and blue fruit, but the most important quality is the chalky texture provided by the white layer of limestone material that covers the stones, which define the place’s elegant character,’ he says.

Although the greatest amount of surface area is dedicated to Malbec, ‘historically the Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Semillon have always stood out and account for the oldest vineyards in Paraje Altamira. New plantings of Cabernet Franc are another trend that is seeing really excellent results,’ says Andrea Ferreyra, head oenologist at La Celia, which has been in the region for over a century.

The future and legacy

Since it was first approved, the GI has been expanded to an overall surface area of 7,472ha, of which over one-third is under vine. Ten years after the original studies, some producers are exploring the possibility of future subdivisions, now that they have better knowledge of the soil profiles, exposure and altitude.

Whatever happens to Paraje Altamira in the future, it is important to note how its initial appearance changed the Argentinian wine scene.

The 2013 initiative established the minimum requirements for the GIs that followed, such as its neighbour Pampa El Cepillo, Los Chacayes and San Pablo in Tunuyán, and several more across the rest of Argentina. It has also inspired some of the existing GIs to implement new studies and draw up fresh maps for their own terroirs.

Paraje Altamira: 20 top wines to try

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Any discussion of viticulture in Argentina will inevitably include the Andes and the effect of high-altitude landscapes on the country’s wines, especially Malbecs. The intense, flavourful character that red wines develop in this South American country is a direct result of the arid, sunny terroirs that can be found in the Andean foothills.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 high-altitude Malbecs

Over the past 20 years, however, wine-growers and oenologists have been working hard to better understand the effects of high-altitude terroirs. This has led to a striking evolution in the wines being produced.

Many have come to the conclusion that vineyard plantings need to go even higher up the mountains to obtain fresher, more precise styles. Hence the term ‘High-Altitude Malbec’ has come into vogue, in order to differentiate the refined but vibrant wines made at these extreme heights.

High ambitions

For years, it was believed that the main determining factor at altitude was the intense solar radiation. It’s true that grapes receive more UV rays the higher you go – encouraging the development of thicker skins and thus more colour, tannic structure and body in the Malbecs. But it’s also the case that temperatures get cooler.For every 150m you go up a mountain, the temperature drops by 1°C.

Traditionally, the vineyards of Argentina were located in warm, arid, sunny areas. So it was inevitable that Argentinian Malbec’s association with the Andes is firmly established. But in recent years wine-growers are going even higher in their quest for freshness and precision. Our expert’s selection of top reds well illustrates the benefits of these high-altitude terroirs winemakers looking for cooler conditions that would help to create greater natural acidity would be tempted to go further up the slopes, pushing the boundaries ever higher.

That quest for the vibrant natural freshness that creates more elegant wines started in Mendoza – Argentina’s main wine-growing region – with the development of promising areas of the Uco Valley. Here, vineyards start at about 1,000m above sea level.

For example, in Gualtallary, Argentina’s star region right now, vines are being grown as high as 1,600m by Terrazas de los Andes to produce its Parcel El Espinillo Malbec, a red of uncommon tension. Meanwhile, in San Pablo, a region that ranges between 1,280m-1,700m, Salentein, Tapiz, Trivento and Zuccardi are taking on the challenges of the height and cold to produce some superb wines.

Elsewhere in the valley, a winery in Uspallata is growing Malbec at a height of nearly 1,900m and obtaining an exquisitely fluid, fruity and herbal character as a result. Over in the province of San Juan, plantings in the Pedernal Valley, at 1,400m above sea level, have transformed the reputation of Malbec from the area.

However, further to the north in Argentina, in the Calchaquí Valleys, viticulture has always begun at a height of 1,500m. In spots such as Luracatao, Pucará, Molinos, Cachi or Payogasta, in Salta province, and the Quebrada de Humahuaca in Jujuy, terroirs can be found set at between 1,980m and 3,080m above sea level. They are producing Malbecs with bewitchingly exotic, raw profiles.

While it would be foolhardy to try to apply a general description to all high-altitude Malbecs, producers are increasingly opting to bring out the fruity, floral and herbal qualities of the grape, supported by juicier, tarter palates. This is certainly true of the 20 labels I’ve selected, as follows.

20 top high-altitude Malbecs to try

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Susana Balbo is a winemaking force of nature. This was confirmed by a recent tasting in London of her premium barrel-fermented Torrontes wines.

Torrontes is one of those grapes which, along with South Africa’s Pinotage, many wine consumers shy away from. Yet Balbo is passionate in her belief that great Torrontes can be made to compete with fine Chardonnay from Burgundy, as well as Gruner Veltliner and Germany’s finest dry Riesling.

Up until now, I would admit to being in the group of wine-drinkers who found Torrontes initially ‘interesting’ and different on the nose; but I would rarely, if ever, go back for a second glass. As a result of Balbo’s groundbreaking work, I am now having to review that stance.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for seven top Susana Balbo Torrontes wines worth seeking out

The Susana Balbo Barrel Fermented Signature Torrontes is a refined, graceful and intriguing wine, with a hint of the vivid florality found in the variety but in a restrained style. The wine is 100% fermented in barrel, but the oak influence manifests itself purely in terms of a creamy, silken texture without adding any of the smoky, orange zest characters often imparted by time in wood. Acidity is precise and focused, with surprising concentration on the palate indicating that these are wines destined for ageing.

Falling for Torrontes

Balbo has many impressive entries on her winemaking CV. In 1981 she became Argentina’s first female oenologist (finishing top of the class) and proceeded to make an impact in what, at the time, was a hugely male-dominated industry. After struggling to find work in her home of Mendoza, Balbo accepted a job at Michel Torino in Cafayate, where she stayed for almost a decade.

It was at Cafayate where Balbo became intrigued by the Torrontes grape. ‘Torrontes from Cafayate is totally different to that at Finca Paraje Altamira’, explains Balbo, referring to the sub-region of Uco Valley.

‘Cafayate has a sub-tropical climate with the harvest normally taking place in mid-March, but the warmth is balanced by altitude, with vines planted between 1,600-2,700m,’ she continues.

Going solo

Moving back to Mendoza in 1990, Balbo spent several years consulting in Europe before returning to work at Catena Zapata. There she oversaw the construction of Catena’s iconic winery and married general manager Pedro Marchevsky.

The couple founded Dominio del Plata in 1999 in Lujàn de Cuyo, with Balbo initially focused on producing high-quality Cabernet – still very much a love of hers today. She divorced several years later and finally bought-out Marchevsky in 2012, before renaming the business Susana Balbo Wines.

In addition to her work in the winery, Balbo has been president of Wines of Argentina three times, as well as spending some time in politics. She has also become a figurehead for female empowerment across the country. She has been a driving force for sustainability whilst championing an organic approach to wine production.

New horizons

Having successfully established Susana Balbo Wines, Balbo decided to focus on additional projects – with a strong desire to show the potential of the Torrontes grape. She obtained cuttings from the best vineyards in Cafayate in 2003, planting a new vineyard in 2005 in Altamira.

Balbo notes: ‘Altamira is the same latitude as Bordeaux. The soils are limestone/calcareous and temperatures are on average 20-22℃. As a result, harvest here is usually at least a month behind Cafayate.’

Finca Paraja Altamira – the source of the Barrel Fermented Signature Torrontes – is planted at 1,150m and lies 128km south of Mendoza. The soils here are poor in organic content and free-draining. Sandy loam soil is interspersed with calcium carbonate deposits and colluvial stones of varying sizes.

Balbo explains that a key part of the philosophy behind making barrel-fermented Torrontes was driven by her own palate, which is particularly sensitive to bitter notes. ‘The extreme climate of Cafayate increases the bitterness in the grape,’ she says.

Barrel philosophy

Although Balbo knew that fermentation in oak would be a way to enhance texture and complexity, she was concerned that traditionally produced barrels would add additional levels of bitter, burnt characters to her wines.

The groundbreaking answer came when Balbo attended an Australian Wine Research Institute conference in the mid-1990s. One of the papers discussed treating wooden staves with extremely hot air (close to 200℃) as an alternative to using fire in the production of top-quality barrels. Balbo returned enthused, persuading a close friend who ran a Chilean cooperage to introduce this new technology to South America.

Despite being fermented in new 500-litre French barrels, there is virtually no discernible oak flavour in any of the Torrontes vintages. The palate feel is rounded and soft, with a beautifully silken texture. The wines bear a lot of similarities to top Rhône valley whites, but without the evident oak notes.

Balbo’s barrel-fermented Torrontes is certainly the finest example of the grape I have tasted. But there is an even more exciting project looming, from vines planted at the extreme limits of viticultural production in Gualtallary. This small-production Torrontes (known simply as Blanco de Gualtallary) may reach the UK in the autumn and will turn heads – partly for its high retail price but, more importantly, for the way it has elevated Torrontes to new heights.

Susana Balbo Torrontes: seven wines to try

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Three adventurous winemakers are braving unlikely regions – from French Polynesia and Patagonia to Sweden and Iran – to prove that some grapes can thrive against the odds. Welcome to extreme winemaking.

Winemakers have long been known and admired for their intrepid spirit; the willingness to push both boundaries and envelopes, creating wines in ways and locations that defy logic. Here is a trio of the very finest at work today…

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores of two fabulous, extreme wines

Otronia

Argentinian Patagonia

Story Amanda Barnes

Patagonia is itself extreme. The claw-like peninsula that unites Chile and Argentina at the fin del mundo (‘end of the world’), Patagonia remains one of the sparsest-populated regions on the planet.

Its pervasive climate, dramatic beauty and remote nature has made it the subject of adventures and pioneering tales for centuries. South America’s winemakers don’t lack thirst for adventure, either, and their pioneering projects in Patagonia make extreme viticulture feel like a sport.

Aurelio Montes’ new vineyard in the watery archipelago of Chiloé, a remote set of islands better known for whale-watching, is only reached by boat or air, while Fernando Alameda’s new project in Chile Chico breaks all records for southerly viticulture at 46° south.

On the Argentinian side of the border, new vineyards in Chubut province extend east from the Andean foothills to the coast. One in Bahia Bustamante has water lapping at its feet and rheas, penguins and sea lions as companions. These are just a handful of the extreme vineyards that are set to see fruit in the coming vintages.

Ferocious winds

One intrepid project, though, is already seeing results, and they are nothing short of thrilling.

Otronia is currently the world’s southernmost commercial vineyard and winery, at 45°33 south, beating all the vineyards of Central Otago in New Zealand. But it isn’t just the latitude that makes this 51ha vineyard at Sarmiento in the steppes of Argentinian Patagonia extreme.

The winds here can hurtle through at above 100kph. Extreme projects such as Otronia – in the far south of Chubut – require guts and, let’s be honest, money. The man with both is Argentinian billionaire and oil magnate Alejandro Bulgheroni.

His dream team of consultants – soil and terroir expert Pedro Parra and oenologist-producer Alberto Antonini – were sceptical when he asked them to plant there in 2011. But the vines not only survived, they surpassed all expectations.

‘Otronia’s terroir is extreme in many ways,’ explains winemaker Juan Pablo Murgia, who also manages Bulgheroni’s estate in Mendoza, Bodega Argento, some 2,000km away. ‘Our average annual temperature is just 11.5°C. We’re also in the heart of Patagonia, and winds sweep through with ferocity and frequency.’

Frost protection has been a major outlay, but a greater challenge lay in the wind breaks. After a couple of years of trial and error, defence lines of cherry trees and nets have made it possible for the vines to withstand the gales. Murgia sees that wind, now it has been tempered, as an asset: ‘It allows us to work organically, which is great.’

Brilliant south

While the team knew even before planting that the lakeside soils of clay, gravels, fragmented mother rock and sand would proffer distinctive wines, it is the luminosity that has been the greatest surprise.

‘At first we thought we would only be able to make sparkling wine here,’ admits Murgia. ‘But in fact, all varieties ripen well, even Merlot. We have a really high luminosity at this latitude, so despite the cold temperatures we get great phenolic maturation and alcohol levels.’

The Chardonnay is the perfect case in point – thrilling with its laser-like acidity, but ripe and full-bodied with an intensity rarely seen in cool climates. There’s nothing lean about it.

Otronia’s 45° Rugientes white blend of Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris is a far-flung doppelgänger for Alsace; and its Pinot Noir is resplendent in forest floor, floral and tart, red cherry nuances. The original hunch for good sparkling wine was also spot on, proved by an excellent duo of vibrant, traditional-method brut nature wines.

Otronia is no doubt extreme, but it is also quite brilliant. And it has set the benchmark for what looks to be a brilliant future for Patagonian wine. ‘The wines continue to surprise me,’ adds Murgia. ‘They are unlike any others, and have a unique personality which reflects extreme Patagonia.’

Vin de Tahiti

Tuamoto Archipelago, South Pacific

Story Anna Lee C Iijima

From the air, Rangiroa looks like a necklace of thin, cylindrical beads cast haphazardly into the ocean.

An hour’s flight from Tahiti or Bora Bora, Rangiroa is the largest atoll island of French Polynesia, best known for its pearl farms, scuba diving and coconut groves. It’s also one of the most unlikely winemaking regions in the world.

Atolls are the ring-shaped reefs of coral that form over millions of years along the periphery of oceanic volcanoes. After the ancient volcano recedes into the sea, the coral remains, forming a string of islets that circle a lagoon.

Vin de Tahiti, the only winery in French Polynesia, is situated on one of these narrow islets and is accessible only by boat. Its estate, Domaine Ampélidacées, is a patch of vineyards and coconut groves that nearly kiss the water at their fringes. The lagoon is just 100m away, the ocean only a little further at 400m.

The winery was conceived by Dominique Auroy, a French engineer who was sent to French Polynesia late in 1965 and settled there from the following year at the age of 23. Auroy’s entrepreneurial ventures extend from the production of hydroelectric energy in French Polynesia and Africa to wine imports, bottled water, wine and, most recently, rum.

Auroy ‘likes to do what’s impossible’, says Sébastien Thépénier, an oenologist and partner in the venture, who joined the domaine in 2002. ‘Dominique could buy grand cru Burgundy or Bordeaux, but he felt it would be even better to make wine here.’

Exceptional circumstances

Auroy began testing cuttings of European grape vines throughout the five archipelagos of French Polynesia in the early 1990s. Despite Rangiroa’s tropical climate, its relatively drier conditions make it one of the few places in French Polynesia suitable for viticulture. ‘There’s less humidity in the soil here and, while the climate is very hot, less sun.’

Key to Rangiroa’s viticultural viability is its exceptionally well-draining limestone soils – coral skeletons degraded over millennia into fine sand and rock. ‘We have perhaps the chalkiest soil in the world,’ says Thépénier, who came to Rangiroa from Burgundy after answering an online ad for a viticulturist. ‘In some ways, the soil resembles the Kimmeridgian marl of Chablis; you can taste a similar minerality.’

But beyond similar soils, Rangiroa could be a different planet from Burgundy. There’s no winter here. Temperatures rarely drop below 24°C, so vines ignore their normal vegetative cycle and remain evergreen instead of going dormant. New growth must be triggered by pruning, which is often done simultaneous with harvest. And harvest is every five months.

In the early days, vineyard workers battled wild pigs and land crabs that tunnel into the vineyard from the water table underneath to eat young vines and grapes.

The pigs have been culled by hunters, but the domaine has eased into coexistence with the crabs.‘Growing vines on an atoll seems crazy,’ says Thépénier. ‘I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I had to see for myself whether it was viable. If it wasn’t, I figured at least I’d get to visit Tahiti.’

The first commercial vintage, of just 600 bottles, was 2002. Today, the vineyard has doubled in size to 6ha, typically producing 35,000 bottles of white and rosé. Plantings are mainly Carignan, which is vinified as a white wine, along with Muscat Hamburg, also known as Black Muscat, and Italia – a cross of Bicane and Muscat Hamburg that’s popular as a table grape.

Harvests are timed early to maintain good acidity. ‘It’s a difficult balance in a tropical climate,’ says Thépénier, ‘but we’ve never had to acidify.’

Sustainability commitment

Many of the vines are now 20-25 years old, ungrafted because there is no threat of phylloxera in coral sand. Because of the low humidity ‘there’s no mildew, only a touch of oidium’, says Thépénier. ‘We don’t need many treatments because the environment is in a good balance.’

Viticulture on an atoll requires a deep commitment to ecological sustainability, suggests Thépénier, which is why the domaine began a conversion to organics in 2010. ‘The vineyard is not certified yet, but all the treatments are organic,’ he says. The soil is given structure by pruned grape vines that are shredded at the end of each harvest, and fertilised with seaweed and other organic enhancements.

Still, no wine region can totally escape the effects of climate change. Rangiroa and other atoll islands face the threat of marine flooding and coastal erosion as the level of both the sea and lagoon are rising.

Last year ‘the level of the lagoon rose by 1.5m’, recounts Thépénier. ‘Suddenly all the vines were underwater during their green cycle.’ The water receded a week later, he says, but the vines stopped growing, making it challenging to ripen grapes to maturity.

In response, the domaine planted a 200m barrier of vetiver, a perennial grass, and wheat. Thus far, it’s proving an effective defence against the flooding.

Vin de Tahiti is intentionally scarce beyond French Polynesia, with 90% of the wine marketed and consumed within the territory (so scarce in fact, that we were unable to source a sample in time to write a tasting note for this article – and sadly editorial budgets don’t stretch to a trip to Tahiti to try it). ‘Our priorities are local production and distribution,’ says Thépénier.

Drood

Persian wine made in Sweden

Story Åsa Johansson

Making wine in Sweden may seem crazy enough; making wine in Sweden with grapes from Iran even more so.

Meet Shahram Soltani, the owner of Drood, who makes Persian wine in Sweden – showing that crazy ideas can become a reality. ‘When I asked my brother in Iran to pick the grapes, freeze them and send them to Sweden, he thought I had lost my mind,’ laughs Soltani.

A petrol engineer by trade, he came to Sweden from Iran with his wife, who studied at the university in Kalmar, a city in southern Sweden. There is a great interest in wine production in Scandinavia currently – including several ambitious projects where Swedish wineries are cultivating mostly PIWI varieties (hybrid, with varying properties of resistance) – but one can’t help but wonder what sparked the idea of bringing grapes from Iran to Sweden.

Honouring tradition

‘I had opened a cafe in Sweden, but I started to dream about continuing my family’s – and country’s – winemaking tradition in some way,’ Soltani says.

He explains that, before the revolution in 1979, which transformed the country into an Islamic republic, the wine industry was thriving in Iran.

Today, wine production and consumption of alcoholic beverages are forbidden, and grapes are grown in Iran only for making raisins or grape juice. Consequently, many vineyards have been abandoned since 1979, as investment in the wine industry disappeared.

Soltani sources his grapes from the Zagros mountains in southwestern Iran, from high-altitude vineyards (2,000m-2,400m). The harvested grapes are loaded onto trucks, frozen to -25°C and transported to Sweden, a two-week journey. ‘We use native grapes including Samarghandi and Lorkosh, from pre-phylloxera old vines, to make two red wines, a white and an orange wine,’ Soltani explains.

Bureaucratic hurdles

There have been many challenges along the way. ‘Everyone thinks the hardest part has to do with the Islamic Republic, but we have no problems in Iran – we’re just exporting grapes to Sweden,’ Soltani says. However: ‘The biggest challenge has been the bureaucracy with the Swedish monopoly and the European Union.’

Grapes sourced from countries outside the EU but transformed into alcoholic beverages inside the EU cannot be called wine. ‘In the end, we decided to write “Winery of Persia” on the label, instead of “Persian wine”, and “alcoholic beverage made from grapes” instead of “wine”.’

The name Drood means ‘cheers’ in the Persian language, and the winery in Sweden is located in a former paper mill. ‘The owners wanted to taste our wine first, and luckily they liked it,’ Soltani says, smiling.

They aren’t the only ones. Since the first vintage in 2021, Drood has found its way onto wine lists at 30 restaurants in Sweden, primarily non-Persian, and into new export markets including the US and UK.

Soltani makes 20,000 bottles and has the capacity to make five times that. The wines are rustic, tasty and have character – and they are anything but mainstream. ‘To me, this project is a peaceful and silent resistance to what is happening in my country, showing that we will not let go of our traditions or freedom that easily,’ Soltani says.

See notes and scores for two wines which are setting new rules

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With most of the grapes safely in the wineries by the first week of April, Argentina brought an end to its 2023 harvest almost a month earlier than usual. The reasons for the haste date back to the early mornings of 31 October and 1 November, 2022, when frosts struck to determine the course of this unusual year.

Alejandro Vigil, the president of Wines of Argentina, director of production, vineyards and wineries at Catena Zapata and creator of El Enemigo Wines, sums things up. ‘We had an early harvest with low yields but with unprecedented balance between the malic acidity, pH and ripeness. We’re very optimistic about the wines we’ll be making this year.’

Interpreting the harvest

Following the polar cold front, which hit almost every wine-producing region in the country, expectations were low. Some were even gloomily predicting historic losses. Fortunately, however, many producers saw their vines recover in time with estimates of the eventual drop in yields falling between 25 and 30%. Meanwhile the grapes that were harvested were of excellent health and quality.

This was due to the fact that after the frosts, the spring was warm and dry as Argentina suffered from a historic drought that continued into the hottest summer in decades. Because of the heat and the lesser loads of fruit, the vines ripened more quickly.

Although by February temperatures were dropping – there was even an unprecedently early frost – the pace of ripening continued steadily, especially among the reds. In Mendoza and Patagonia, the grapes were generally harvested about three weeks earlier than normal.

‘This harvest required great precision when it came to deciding on the right moment,’ says Germán Di Césare, head winemaker at Trivento. ‘By the middle of February, we saw that everything was happening much earlier than usual, the grapes were small and not very fleshy but showed remarkable aromatic development and rising Brix degrees as well as pronounced malic concentration. By the end of February we had decided to bring the harvest forward.’

Mendoza

In the regions of Mendoza that concentrate more on quality than quantity such as the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, the expectations for premium wines remain unaffected, especially among the reds.

Meanwhile the whites, among which yields were lower, are already showing some promising Chardonnays, Semillons and Sauvignon Blancs. Following some rain and milder temperatures towards the end of February, the Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were able to settle down. As a result, many are now predicting reds with excellent ageing potential.

‘Overall, the hot summer was a major factor in forcing us to rethink our calculations about ripeness,’ says Gustavo Rearte, head winemaker at Achaval Ferrer. ‘Ripening happened much earlier than usual but remarkable natural freshness was maintained. The wines were fermented at low pHs, meaning excellent ageing potential and life expectancy we can’t wait to see come to fruition.’

Patagonia

Of all the regions, Patagonia was hit hardest by the frosts of 2022. Here, average losses reached as high as 50% in Río Negro and Neuquén, where 90% of Patagonia’s vineyards are located.

‘The autumn and winter of 2022 were cool and dry while the spring had higher than average temperatures that brought budding forward,’ says winemaker Marcelo Miras of Bodega Miras. ‘Then came the frosts, which were especially lengthy in our area and affected as much as 70% of output in some vineyards. The rest of the growing period was warm and dry.’

Lower fruit yields and higher temperatures speeded up ripening by 15 days, resulting in aromatic whites – Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay – with tart acidity. The reds – mainly Malbec and Cabernet Franc – had good aromas, intense colour, appreciable concentration and refreshing acidity.

Pinot Noir, the variety for which Patagonia is most famous, suffered more due to the fragility of the grape, but those that made it through to the harvest promise to be rich and intense.

San Juan

In San Juan – a province that accounts for 20% of Argentina’s output – the drop in yields was about 15%. Germán Buk, the oenologist at Finca La Moras, reports: ‘We had a warm harvest with more degree days than 2022 and a similar amount of rainfall. The frosts didn’t hit us as hard as other provinces, although we did get some hail.’

In general, the San Juan valleys saw the harvest brought forward by about 10 days due to accelerated sugar development with good levels of acidity and pH. In the Pedernal Valley, a cool, high-altitude region, the natural acidity and pH were notable, greater than last year, resulting in an enticingly fruity profile for the reds. The whites are showing good acidity and bold aromas.

High-altitude vineyards

Meanwhile, in the northwest, which boasts the highest vineyards in Argentina, the harvest was cooler than usual. But no significant drops in yield were reported in Cafayate, the hub of the extreme altitude winemaking scene.

‘Lower temperatures in spring led to some minor damage from frosts, from which the vines recovered during the growing cycle, so we had a normal year,’ says Jorge Noguera, winemaker at Bodega Amalaya in Cafayate. ‘The cool climate held back the harvest for about 15 days so we only started with the Riesling at the end of January, the Torrontés and Malbec at the end of February and had finished by April.’

The result was lower than usual potential alcohol levels, meaning subtler, fresher than average wines from the high altitude, sun-kissed terroir.

However, in the highest valleys of the northwest, where vineyards in Salta and Jujuy are generally planted above 1,980m above sea level, the frosts did affect yields. This was especially true in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, Colomé and Payogasta.

Overall, the drop in yields during the 2023 harvest was compensated for by healthy fruit with good concentration and acidity, a combination that is producing excellent quality in the initial musts. And so, the wineries of the largest wine producer in South America are breathing a sigh of relief, and looking forward to next year with renewed optimism.

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Pablo Rivero is the sommelier and owner behind award-winning Parrilla Don Julio steakhouse in Buenos Aires. He was named Latin America’s Best Sommelier 2022 in the inaugural prize by the World’s 50 Best in November 2022.

‘Like many Argentines, I have family in Mendoza, so wine was always on the table, at lunchtime and over dinner, at home.’

‘When I started working at Parrilla Don Julio as a 20-year-old, I fell in love with the ageing and cellaring of wines, processes that would transform them into something better: I love playing with the effects of time. And, as soon as sommellerie became a career option, I was part of the first class to study at the Escuela Argentina de Vinos in 2002.’

‘My earliest drinking memory is my grandfather giving me a glass of wine and soda to try, and watching him squirt the fizzy water into the glass. I’d watch those hypnotic and tempting bubbles and always remember that beautiful intense red colour.’ 

‘It’s an incredibly joyful moment for Argentine wine to have one of its own named the first Latin America’s Best Sommelier 2022 by the World’s 50 Best. While I’m the face of a large team, there are eight sommeliers as well as numerous wait staff without whom there would be little success. It’s hugely satisfying because it validates all the important work we do in the salon and it also serves as recognition of Argentine wine, which is precisely what our work is based upon and it’s wonderful to know that our efforts are worthy of this prize.’

‘Three memorable vintages are the 1959 Trapiche Broquel from Agrelo in Luján de Cuyo, a red made in a gigantic 70,000-litre oak foudre. It’s highly complex, with oxidative ageing and veil of flor; it still has plenty of life in it.’ 

‘Then there’s the Bodega Tupungato Gruta Azul 1969; it was the first wine to name the Tupungato district on a label, although the winery doesn’t exist any more.’

‘As for contemporary vintages, I’m really thrilled by Per Se La Craie 2019 by Edgardo del Pópolo and David Bonomi, which comes from Gualtallary. This Uco Valley region is the one that excites me the most right now, especially the wines coming out of El Monasterio and La Cautiva.’

‘At home I enjoy opening Criollas, Moscatels and Patagonian Pinot Noir, as well as Pinot Noir from other cool climates. I tend to go for lighter, more simple reds at home with my family and friends.’

‘Recommending wines to guests at Don Julio is the most entertaining part of my work. We pay attention to what a guest is after, through their words and gestures, and combine that with what they are going to order. We decipher what they want, consider the possibilities we have in the cellar, and return to the guests with their desire in a bottle or glass. That game, the back and forth, the decoding, the vertigo that each situation brings and whether we can satisfy it, is the most beautiful aspect of our profession, and I love it.’ 

‘One pairing I always enjoy is skin-contact Torrontés with a really medium-rare bife de cuadril (rump steak). It’s a lean and tasty cut, and is simply perfect with the grip this particular style has. I have a lot of fun with it.’

‘To ensure that our hospitality at Don Julio is always fantastic, I stick to three rules. The key being love for what we do; the second, collaborating with the guests who come to dine under our roof; and the third is the continual attention we accord every detail.’

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Early reports have suggested a significant frost impact in the Mendoza region, although producers were still assessing their vines. ‘We [are] talking about 10,000 hectares of vineyards affected,’ Mendoza’s sub-secretary of state Sergio Moralejo told reporters on Thursday, 4 November.

The Mendoza regional government has declared an agriculture state of emergency after temperatures plunged to as a low as -4 degrees Celsius on Sunday (30 October) and Monday (31 October). The Valle de Uco, Altamira, Cuyo and the Eastern and Southern regions of Mendoza were all impacted by the frost.

Vineyards in Patagonia and Salta were also impacted by the weather.

The regional authorities estimated that between 50% and 75% of Mendoza vineyards have been impacted by the freak weather, but in some cases producers fear they have lost their entire production.

On 1 November, Argentina’s Association of Wine Cooperatives (ACOVI), announced that at least half of the vineyards run by cooperatives in Mendoza had been damaged the frost.

‘This was a “black frost” caused by an out of season polar push,’ said Eduardo Soler, winemaker and founder of Ver Sacrum in Mendoza. ‘I have never seen -4°C in November.’

He told Decanter, ‘Most of the producers in Eastern Mendoza, Altamira and other parts of Uco Valley lost between 80% and 100% of their vineyards.

‘We fought for three nights in a row with burners in our vineyards in Los Chacayes and Maipu, so there is probably 10% of damage but we will have to wait and see.’

Many others were less fortunate as the frost was unexpected. It comes after Mendoza producers have been grappling with severe drought this year, which means less water has been available to irrigate vineyards – one of the methods producers employ to reduce the impact of frost.

‘The frost came out of the blue,’ Solano Pena-Lenzi, CEO of Hispamerchants, an importer of Argentinian fine wines in the UK, told Decanter.

‘Normally, there are frost forecasts; producers can reduce the impact of frost with irrigation and fires, but what was different this year, was that the frost was not anticipated.’

Pena-Lenzi has been communicating this week with the 10 Argentinian producers he works with. ‘Producers are assessing the damage and do not want to communicate the extent of the damage yet,’ Pena-Lenzi said.

Reports in Argentina have said the frost outbreak was the worst the country has faced in 30 years.

Juanfa Suarez, producer and owner of Finca Suarez in Paraja Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, said: ‘We have had 100% damage to our Finca Las Piedras vineyard and 80% damage at Finca Perico vineyard. I’m really worried about next year and the near future because there’s no material to prune and this can damage the plant’s balance.

‘For small terroir-driven producers it’s a real disaster. We don’t have any white grapes and we’ll harvest just a tiny amount of red. Finca Suarez will only be able to produce bottles for two to three cuvées out of eight,’ Suarez said.

Estela Perinetti winemaker at Las Estelas has reported the strong impact of frost in the Uco Valley’s Lujan de Cuyo and most regions of Mendoza, however she said the area of El Peral where her Finca Mangato is located was not badly affected due to slopes and higher temperatures.

Meanwhile speaking about Patagonia, Solano Pena Lenzi, CEO of Hispamerchants said: ‘The frost in Patagonia, which started around 10pm lasted much longer than usual, which made it harder for producers to fight against. Temperatures in Patagonia (-1°C and -2°C) did not fall as low as elsewhere, but the frost endured much longer.’

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Alejandro Vigil is director of production, vineyards and wineries at Catena Zapata, and was named president of Wines of Argentina in April. Besides leading the Catena family’s wine projects, he also runs Chachingo craft brewery and a slew of pubs and restaurants in Mendoza.

How did you get here?

My journey started at INTA [the National Institute of Agricultural Technology in Argentina] in 1996, when it opened a specialised soils department in Luján de Cuyo, and I really got to know about Argentinian viticulture. I met experts, technicians and winery owners around the country, which led to my crossing over to the private sector 22 years ago. I’ve been Catena Zapata’s head of oenology for 18 years. But it’s really about the people: I’ve worked with 80% of the vineyards in Uco Valley, and that’s a real swathe of knowledge.

What’s the best thing about your job?

I’m always encouraged by walking around a vineyard year round, sensing it and living with it, then expressing it year after year. Wine doesn’t come to life when you ferment grapes, it’s born each year when we prune. The best part is interpreting nature through wine. There’s a famous saying, ‘bottling the landscape’, and I love doing just that, capturing Argentina – La Pampa, Mendoza, Salta, everywhere I work.

And the worst?

What can’t be controlled in viticulture is nature. Hail and frost hurt me the most; when nature shows its strength there’s little we can do about it. I can mitigate most things but I can’t do anything about a -6˚C frost, or hail before harvest.

What’s the most common misconception about your job?

That my work begins and ends in the vineyard. In fact, the bodega is in the middle. And communication is key too. At Casa Vigil [Vigil’s winery and restaurant brand in Mendoza] I have many visitors, and it’s important to share the vineyard’s energy and make them feel part of it.

What are the challenges of leading Wines of Argentina?

We need to convince new drinkers as well as older ones to try Argentinian wine, because neither group really chooses wine from our country. Sales are growing slowly at 3% a year, which is small on a global level. It’s difficult when economies are slowing down and Argentina is dealing with inflation, so we need to work harder than ever.

How do you strike a work/life balance?

A personal life doesn’t exist outside viticulture, and my free time is invariably linked to the vineyard. Pruning, for instance. I do enjoy cooking with my family when I get time. On Saturday we made homemade pasta and on Sunday I walked around vineyards with my children. Quality time is essential.

You have Malbec and Cabernet Franc tattoos? Which other grapes are special to you?

Pinot Noir is so transparent that in a dry, sunny country, it can prove difficult – and I love that challenge. Also, Semillon, Chardonnay and Criolla. There’s plenty to be done with Mediterranean varieties too, such as Garnacha, Monastrell and Carignan, and in new regions such as Villa General Belgrano in Córdoba, or Tandil in Buenos Aires. If we want to grow in volume, we need to move down from the Andes. Catena is cultivating 120ha at Casa de Piedra in La Pampa; it’s a good starting point for low-elevation wines.

What do you drink at home?

I love red Burgundy and Spanish Garnacha, and peaty malt whiskies from Islay. Also beer, and gin; I make G&Ts with water, not tonic.

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