Tomioka in Fukushima is unlikely to appear on most travellers’ Japan itineraries, but the winemakers behind Tomioka Winery hope that, within a generation or two, it will be.

Fifteen years ago, this coastal town was devastated by the tsunami that followed the Great East Japan Earthquake and was entirely evacuated after the subsequent nuclear disaster at Fukushima Daiichi, just five kilometres away.

A curious spot for a vineyard, but Tomioka Winery’s founder and president, Shubun Endo, is determined to build the foundations for a more prosperous future for the next generations.

His ambition to start a winery in Tomioka predated 2011, catalysed by his world travels and a growing appreciation for wine culture. The disaster only strengthened his resolve.

‘After the earthquake, I came to feel even more strongly about the importance of the region’s revitalisation, and my desire to establish wine as a permanent part of the community grew,’ he says.

‘This region has sea, mountains, and rivers, each with its own culinary potential. I believed wine could serve as the link connecting them all.’

The journey to opening Tomioka Winery hasn’t been smooth. ‘As we moved forward with preparations, we spoke with and consulted Tomioka Town Hall staff, residents, acquaintances, and friends about making wine in Tomioka. However, most people were sceptical.

'We were constantly bombarded with reasons why it couldn’t be done. “Grapes won’t grow near the ocean,” people said. Others doubted anyone would drink wine made on land associated with radiation contamination.’

Facing the challenges

Despite the challenges ahead, Endo felt a sense of duty to push ahead.

His family is prominent in Tomioka, with 300 years of history in the town. His father was serving as mayor during the disaster on 11th March 2011 and led the town’s evacuation. These roots gave Endo a sense of purpose to rebuild the town.

‘I never once considered the option of not returning. I’d heard since I was a child that my Endo family ancestors spared no effort for the sake of the community, and that I had inherited that spirit,’ he says.

‘This compound disaster – a combination of natural disasters like the earthquake and tsunami with a nuclear accident – was something no country in the world had ever experienced. It was an extremely difficult mission, but it felt like destiny to me. The example set by my late father, who risked his life to protect the townspeople, was a major factor.’

The winery’s location, right by the Tomioka Station, seemed appropriate; it’s accessible, it is the welcoming face of the town, and it’s right beside the only Endo family property not destroyed by the tsunami – a storehouse that dates back around 80 years.

The building is now a symbol of the winery, incorporated into the logo. The metal rails on its window, bent and pummelled by the waves (see above picture), are part of the story of the town.

Endo assembled a team, including Junichiro Hosokawa, a seasoned sommelier and winemaker, who relocated to Tomioka in 2022.

‘The evacuation order had not yet been fully lifted, and I was shocked at the scene. A nearby Fashion Center Shimamura looked as if time had stood still since the disaster, with clothes in the store windows torn and strewn on the ground,’ he says.

‘We were starting a winery from scratch in Tomioka, a place with no track record or expertise in grape cultivation, so every day was spent exploring grape variety selection and cultivation methods suited to Tomioka’s proximity to the sea. I felt a sense of purpose that came from knowing we were undertaking a disaster recovery effort through wine.’

Perhaps the biggest challenge the team faced in turning this desolate space into a winery was to prepare the soil. They removed the topsoil, which had been ravaged by the tsunami, and replaced it with soil with a profile similar to the original – river sand from the Natsui River in Iwaki City and soil sourced from the Abukuma mountain range, about 45 minutes away.

‘By using topsoil from the same origin as the original soil, we believe that Tomioka’s terroir has been restored,’ says Hosokawa.

In April 2016, while the entire town was still under evacuation orders, Endo planted the first grapevines in Tomioka Town.

First Harvest

The first few years were challenging, with vine diseases and insects affecting the harvest. Endo, Hosokawa, and a team of volunteers had little success until 2019.

‘That year (2019), we were able to harvest the grapes and produce our first 57 bottles of wine,’ says Endo.

‘I felt that the volunteers’ mindset had shifted significantly. It was the moment when the impossible became possible, and I believe that was a major turning point.’

The winery now employs 12 people in its restaurant, shop and vineyards, which span around 60,000 square metres and grow 16,000 grapevines, serendipitously matching the pre-2011 earthquake population of Tomioka.

Tomioka Winery doesn’t yet produce enough grapes for the 10,000 bottles it produces annually, so production is supplemented with grapes from other prefectures.

Within five years, it will have the infrastructure to produce 30 to 40,000 bottles, including Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Koshu.

Endo enjoys a whimsical approach to winemaking. Taking inspiration from winemakers who believe the sound vibrations in music can influence fermentation, he plays Debussy’s La Mer all day, every day in the cellar.

‘A lot of winemakers choose Mozart, but it didn’t work well here. We needed something better suited to the sea breeze, music that reflected the ocean,’ he says.

Endo has even taken inspiration from a soy sauce factory he visited in Nagoya, which had a sticker reading ‘Arigatou’, meaning ‘thank you’ in Japanese, to honour the living bacteria.

Endo has added a sticker of thanks in the languages of each of the countries that have inspired his winemaking journey: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, and Ukrainian.

Safety Concerns

Major recovery efforts in the region, including topsoil removal, demolition of buildings and extensive cleaning, have reduced contamination. As a result, most evacuation orders have since been lifted, although only around 1,300 of Tomioka's 16,000 residents have returned.

Before moving to Tomioka, Hosokawa had some reservations. ‘Since this is an area affected by the nuclear accident, I was worried that radiation levels might be high. However, I was reassured when I checked the radiation monitors in town and saw that the levels were not high,’ he says.

‘Rather than dwelling on the past, I felt a stronger sense of anticipation about being involved in efforts to build the future.’

Endo knows that Tomioka's road to recovery is long. ‘The area still carries a negative image,’ says Endo.

‘But reconstruction is not only about infrastructure. Local people have to create excitement again, to build something others want to come and experience. I want Tomioka to be a place where people can think about what truly matters, and imagine what this region could become 100 years from now.’

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An old and young wine country

Starting from casual home brewing using sake-making equipment, modern winemaking in Japan started more than a century ago in Yamanashi, inspired by Western wine-drinking culture soon after the Meiji Restoration. However, quality-driven, site-specific winemaking didn’t really take off until about two decades ago.

Today, only about a quarter of wine produced in Japan is made from domestically grown grapes (or ‘Japanese Wine’ in the true sense of the term), according to statistics from Japan’s National Tax Agency (2022). That amounts to just 11,987kl – roughly 16 million bottles. To put things into perspective, Bordeaux alone produced around 503 million bottles of wine even in the low-yielding 2021 vintage.

Finding the sunny spot

Wine plantings are scattered along Japan’s long, crescent-shaped land stretching northeast and southwest, with Yamanashi, Nagano, Hokkaido and Yamagata being the top four wine regions by production volume.

Seasonal rain and typhoons during the growing season pose serious challenges for wine planting throughout the nation. Although wine grapes still thrive in some of the sunniest and driest spots – such as the mountainous ‘fruit kingdom’ Yamanashi north of Mt Fuji. Even here, producers see over 1000mm of rain (slightly higher than Bordeaux) in an average year, despite over 2,200 hours of sunshine.

To protect the grape bunches from rain and humidity, producers usually need to bestow various rain shields – sometimes in the form of overarching plastic sheets, some meticulously attach a wax paper hat to every single bunch of grapes – forming a rather iconic view if you visit Japanese vineyards in the harvest season. Needless to say, that extra manual effort also means increased costs.

Generally speaking, ample rain contributes to a relatively subtle flavour profile and lighter alcohol levels of Japanese wines, and chaptalisation (adding sugar to boost alcohol) is a common practice in some regions.

The signature grape: Koshu

The pinkish Koshu grape, also the ancient name of Yamanashi, is the most planted white grape in Japan and one we will most likely see in the western market.

It is the nation’s signature wine grape – DNA research revealed its genetic roots as a Vitis vinifera (the European wine grape species), believed to have travelled via the Silk Road, crossed with some Chinese local grapes during the journey, and settled in Japan more than 1,000 years ago.

One of its several discovery stories describes it as a divine medicine gifted by the Buddha of Medicine (Yakushi Nyorai in Japanese). Truth or not, it has been planted in the Yamanashi region for centuries, first enjoyed as a table grape and often occupying marginal hillside plots unsuitable for rice paddies.

Subtle and nuanced, with yuzu, stone fruit characters and fresh natural acidity – but not too harsh – Koshu is crafted in a wide range of styles in its Yamanashi heartland, from Chablis-like fresh whites to textured and lightly spiced orange wines alongside traditional method (similar to Champagne) sparklers.

Top reds and beyond

Among the various hybrids planted in Japan, Muscat-Bailey A is the most planted red grape. It is a cross of American hybrid Bailey and Muscat Alexandria.

With bright cherry fruits and soft tannins, Muscat-Bailey A is a charming partner for iron-rich sashimi and sweet soy-seasoned yakiniku (Japanese barbeque), with some examples best enjoyed slightly chilled.

Familiar international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are also found in Japan's key wine regions, particularly Nagano, which has a higher proportion of red wine production.

Producers such as Château Mercian (in its Kikyogahara Winery) and Manns (with its Komoro Winery, home of the Solaris range) are crafting delicate, ethereal expressions of these classic grapes in Nagano.

In the far north, the cool, less typhoon-prone Hokkaido is now gathering many young and ambitious winemaking forces from the nation and beyond. Many have high hopes for its potential for making cool-climate varieties such as Zweigelt and delicate, Burgundian-style Pinot Noir.

When and where to visit

Yamanashi – Perhaps the most famous, among the local wine events held during the year, is the annual Grape Harvest Festival on the first Saturday of October in Katsunuma, Koshu City. Visit the Daizenji Temple (aka ‘the Grape Temple’ – the rumoured place where Koshu was discovered), take part in walk-around tastings, join the traditional mikoshi parade, with fireworks and a mountainside torii-shaped bonfire as the finale in the evening.

Take the train from Shinjuku, Tokyo to Katsunuma Budokyo for a day trip or stay longer and enjoy an onsen (hot spring) stay and Ho-to noodles – a Yamanashi local specialty.　

Nagano – There are various wine events held across Nagano throughout the year, from the annual spring Shiojiri Wine Festa in the centre of the prefecture to the many activities organised by producers in the Chikuma River Wine Valley in the east.

In the north, visitors can even join a wine-themed excursion organised by Nagano Dentetsu (electric railway) through Kita-Shinano this summer, combining all-you-can-drink local wines, bespoke bento boxes and some of the region’s most scenic railway routes.

Hokkaido – The region hosts an annual food and wine event, ‘Hokkaido Wine Evening’ in early spring in Sapporo. The 2026 event – the 30th edition – saw a record-breaking 40 wineries taking part.

Six Japanese wines for sushi pairing

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Standout success for China and Japan at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025 showcases rich opportunities for discovery in both countries.

Two Chinese red wines from different regions won coveted Best in Show medals, marking China’s first appearance in DWWA’s Top 50 list since 2011. In a strong year for Asia, DWWA 2025 also saw eye-catching Gold medals for Chinese white wines and several top medals for Japan.

‘The 2025 results testify to significant leaps in quality in winemaking in both mainland China and Japan,’ said Dr Edward Ragg MW, judge at DWWA 2025 and Regional Chair for Asia at DWWA 2026 and co-founder of Dragon Phoenix.

‘Japan’s refinement of the Koshu variety is also compelling, with wines showing great purity of fruit, with or without lees influence.’ He noted the rise of ‘vibrant perfumed reds’, too.

DWWA’s rigorous judging process, underpinned by leading experts, offers a perfect route into these dynamic winemaking scenes.

See a selection of top DWWA 2025 medal winners below.

Best in Show

Changyu, Noble Dragon N188, Yantai, Shandong, China (mainland) 2022

Best in Show, 97 points
changyu.com.cn
This successful blend of 75% Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère) and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon is from the very particular coastal environment of the Shandong peninsula in eastern China. It confirms that China is capable of making not just fruity red wines (which many locations in the wine world do well), but structured reds in which rich tannins provide the bone structure that gives beguiling fruit flesh an inner seriousness of purpose. This is dark and searching, with plum-blackberry fruits. Depth and textural finesse on the palate are supported by tannins that play a key role in lending the fruit its dignity and gastronomic force. Alcohol 13.5%

Dongfang Yuxing, Geruihong Yeguangbei, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2022

Best in Show, 97 points
Though China is a relative newcomer to the world of wine, in many other respects its civilisation pre-dates that of Mediterranean Europe – and the Chinese made mixed alcoholic beverages even earlier than the Georgians made wine. This Ningxia wine is a cunning blend that few in Europe would have thought of: Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% of freshening Dornfelder and 6% of Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère). It works well. Fresh and alluring scents of blackcurrant and wild plum, then a seductive plunge of fruit and spice, settling on something more akin to dark chocolate but – and this is key – with the authority and detaining discipline only carefully extracted tannins can bring. It’s a revelation. Alc 15.6%

China (mainland)

Ningxia

Li’s Estate, Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East 2022

Platinum, 97 points
wineningxia.com
Aromas of blackberry compote and prunes, with touches of cedar, black pepper spice and herbs. Enveloping tannins and a lick of warming tar to finish. Alc 15.5%

Domaine Pu Shang, Marselan, Helan Mountain East 2022

Gold, 96 points
Waves of damson and blueberry fruit, earthy balsamic tones and an intoxicating violet fragrance. Bold and structured, with broad tannins and herbaceous acidity. Alc 15.5%

MountainWave Vinery, Mountain Wave Malbec, Helan Mountain East 2021

Gold, 96 points
Hugely concentrated damson florals, black cherry and plum with a bewitching clove and vanilla aspect. Stylish and plush, with silky tannins and a lofty, lingering acidity. Superb. Alc 14%

Dongfang Yuxing, Geruihong Marselan, Helan Mountain East 2024

Value Gold, 95 points
Deep and inky, cassis and peppery spice flowing from nose onto the palate. Juicy structure and silky tannins. A wine that shows both ageing potential and youthful appeal. Alc 13.2%

Pernod Ricard Ningxia, Helan Mountain Xiao Feng Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East 2020

Gold, 95 points
helanmountain.com
Morello cherry, blackcurrant and plum, framed by tightly packed tannins, elevating acidity and violet, enhanced by spicy toast characters from the oak. Alc 14.8%

Shandong

Mystic Island, Yihu Qiushan Reserve Chardonnay, Penglai 2022

Gold, 96 points
mysticwinery.hk
Floral charm of jasmine, white blossom and honeysuckle aromas leads into a mouthwatering lemony freshness, flowing with a wonderful smoky mineral quality. Alc 13%

Longting, Sea Breeze Reserve Chardonnay, Penglai 2020

Gold, 95 points
longtingvineyard.com
Beguiling white blossom, melon and peach perfumes brought together by invigorating citrus peel acidity and a mineral undertow, with an intriguing bitter almond twist at the end. Alc 12.5%

Japan

Chubu

Chateraise Belle Foret, Katsunuma Koshu, Yamanashi 2023

Gold, 95 points
koshuvalley.com
Layers of white peach, pear, cherry blossom and lemon zest with a stony mineral infusion. Crunchy and crisp with a playful minty green tea finish. Alc 12%

Shirayuri Winery, L’Orient Vigne de Nakagawa Koshu, Yamanashi 2024

Gold, 95 points
koshuvalley.com
Rose petal and lily scents, green apple and lime bring a sense of brightness and vitality. Lifted texture and a vibrant bite of acidity. Fresh and sustained. Alc 12%

Hokkaido

Grande Polaire, Zweigeltrebe, Yoichi 2022

Platinum, 97 points
sapporobeer.jp
Cherry, plum, prune and violet with a vibrant, minty undercurrent. Plush, velvety texture. Intense and engaging, with spicy interludes. Nicely rounded through to the finish. Alc 12.5%

Niki Hills, Chardonnay, Niki 2023

Gold, 96 points
Sublime yellow plum, pineapple and fresh flower aromas shot through with a subtle vein of vanilla oak. A crushed rock mineral character on the palate and a zesty finish. Alc 13%

Kyushu

Tsuno Wine, Makiuchi Private Reserve Koshu, Miyazaki 2024

Gold, 95 points
Pink-tinged and impeccably flavoured with rose petal florals, peach and pear fruits, and a sumptuous bite of almond nuttiness. Glowing with crisp apple acidity. Vivacious and pure. Alc 11%

DWWA 2026 results announced 17 June 2026.

Discover more at awards.decanter.com

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After my spotlight on sake books, the Japanese theme continues this month with a new guide to the country’s wines.

I stumbled across this self-published work on Instagram (a reward for my hours of mindless scrolling). Nick Rowan – aka @winefogg on the platform – isn’t an industry veteran, but has clearly fallen hard for the world of wine in recent years, undertaking WSET courses and setting up a blog.

And now, he’s published a book: Japanese Wine: History, Regions, Wineries (and Cheese) (£49 Wine Fogg, December 2025).

A true labour of love

Rowan, who previously lived in Japan, has put an extraordinary amount of thought and work into the book. A true labour of love, it’s a comprehensive guide to the wines of Japan (as well as a nod to the country’s nascent cheese industry), written with the tourist in mind.

It offers a broad-brush introduction to the country’s wines – the history, main grapes and styles, viticulture and winemaking – before diving into profiles of each prefecture and the producers; but you’ll also find shortlists of wine shops, bars and restaurants in every area covered, as well as useful travel tips. (A note for those who are as confused as I was at first: MBA doesn’t stand for Master of Business Administration, but Muscat Bailey A, otherwise Bailey A, an outstanding sibling for Melon B in the Spice Grapes band I’m compiling.)

The appendices include an array of additional information – from the estates with the best winery cats/dogs/goats/ chickens and statistics on wine production to a (very) brief guide to parsing Japanese.

'Ideal if you're planning a vinous tour of Japan'

Dear reader, you may be aware that I don’t always gush with praise when it comes to self-publishing – and it certainly comes with limitations.

Inevitably, there are a few more typos or formatting quirks than in traditionally published books; the design may leave a lot to be desired; and the imagery can be awful. Editors are generally very helpful in shaping a book – and can be sorely missed.

Rowan, however, has managed to dodge the worst of these potential pitfalls. His book is stripped back – text heavy, but for good reason. This isn’t a coffee table book, nor one you’re likely to read cover to cover, but rather a solid reference guide – and ideal if you’re planning a vinous tour of Japan.

An editor would likely have cut the best winery animals from the appendix; I’m glad there wasn’t one to do so. If you buy the book directly through Rowan’s site (rather than Amazon), you can add a custom wine stain, made with a specific Japanese wine of your choice – a curious yet creative way to tip an amateur author if ever I saw one.

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You’d be forgiven for not knowing that the world’s most valuable spirits brand is the Chinese baijiu producer Moutai. In fact, according to the Brand Finance report Alcoholic Drinks 2025, Moutai’s brand value is roughly equal to that of the top 10 spirits brands combined – a list that includes only four non-baijiu brands: Hennessy, Jack Daniel’s, Bacardi and Johnnie Walker.

In 2025, Moutai’s brand value alone was estimated at $58.4 billion, placing it 20th in the Global 500 rankings alongside companies such as Apple, Microsoft and Google, as listed in the Global 500 2025 report by Brand Finance.

Defined as a white spirit, baijiu is a category that remains remarkably underexamined and widely misunderstood. It is among the earliest distilled alcohols in the world, dating to the Ming Dynasty of 1368-1644; making China home to the world’s oldest continuously operating distillery – Luzhou Laojiao – founded in 1573. Yet despite these facts, baijiu remains little known outside China.

The baijiu champion

To understand why baijiu has remained so obscure internationally, it’s necessary to grasp the complexity of the category itself. Few people understand this better than Ben Salguero, a UK baijiu specialist and owner of Jaded Dragon bar in Bristol, home to Europe’s largest collection of baijiu.

Salguero has dedicated his career to bringing baijiu to Western consumers and educating them about the spirit, which he describes as ‘unlike anything else’ and predicts is ‘heading towards its heyday’, much as rum and tequila have over the past decade.

‘It’s bizarre that it’s 2026 and there’s this whole category of alcohol that is still unknown to most of the world,’ he says.

Understanding baijiu

Baijiu, commonly distilled from a cereal grain called sorghum, is the national drink of China and has 12 recognised styles, each distinct in production and character. The four principal ‘aroma’ categories are strong, light, rice and sauce.

Strong-aroma baijiu is associated with tropical fruit notes such as guava and pineapple, alongside unexpected flavours like bubble-gum. Sauce-aroma baijiu is deeply savoury and food-driven, with characteristics reminiscent of dark chocolate, Marmite and soy sauce.

Light-aroma baijiu commonly displays flavours of sesame, white chocolate, bell pepper and even Brussels sprouts. Rice-aroma baijiu, by contrast, can be likened to distilled sake, offering notes of seaweed, melon and gentle salinity.

For drinkers familiar with high-ester rum, baijiu can be understood through a similar lens. Rum contains a complex range of volatile compounds, with up to 184 distinct compounds identified. Sauce-aroma baijiu, by comparison, contains more than 500.

A matter of taste

‘That’s the intensity of flavour, the tasting is exciting. You’re tasting a memory, in a very romantic sense,’ says Salguero. ‘When we taste distilled alcohol – not whisky, where wood plays a role, but white spirits – we are tasting the esters carried through distillation,’ he explains.

‘Fundamentally, they come from fatty acids created during the fermentation of the original food source. Those acids themselves don’t have flavour, but when they hit your tongue, your brain recognises them. It recalls something you’ve tasted before. In that way, you are quite literally tasting memory at its core.’

Salguero says his customers’ reactions to baijiu have been largely positive, with the greatest resistance surprisingly coming from bartenders, many of whom express a ‘fear’ towards the category.

Meanwhile the general public are more open-minded. ‘Even if they decide they don’t like it, they’re still willing to try,’ says Salguero.

Brands and bottles

In the UK, more accessible baijiu brands include Ming River, known for its approachable and fruity profile, and Moutai, characterised by its intense savoury and nutty flavour. One persistent challenge, however, is labelling.

‘If you can’t read Chinese, you often don’t know what you’re buying,’ Salguero explains. ‘The bottles are very traditional. I’ll pick up a bottle I’ve never seen before and won’t know anything about it.’

This is why specialist bars such as Jaded Dragon play a crucial role. Traditionally, baijiu is drunk neat in small 15ml ganbei cups. However, Salguero believes cocktails are key to its Western adoption.

In this sense, baijiu occupies a unique position in the global spirits landscape. ‘It is simultaneously an ancient and a new spirit,’ says Salguero. Although obscure outside China, the category may now be entering a new phase of global recognition.

Modest beginnings

Malaysian food is essentially family food, with the nation’s beloved dishes derived from home-cooked recipes.

As this simple fare made the leap to restaurants, its robust flavours of coconut, chilli, shrimp paste and dark soy remained prominent, making it a challenging cuisine in the minds of many wine drinkers.

However, while most Malaysians instinctively reach for whiskey on ice or brandy at the dining table, wine is surprisingly sympathetic to Malaysian dishes – especially exotic styles, from sparkling red wine to Nebbiolo rosé.

In Australia, Malaysian flavours were a primary inspiration for the innovative fusion food scene born in the 1980s.

Chef Cheong Liew was instrumental in forging this cultural embrace at his seminal Adelaide restaurants Neddy’s and The Grange, combining ideas and techniques from his Chinese-Malay heritage with myriad other influences – which was seen as a unique crosscultural mix, to Liew’s surprise.

‘Malaysian food is fusion food already, because it’s such a melting pot of different cultures – Malay, Chinese, Indian, Nyonya,’ he says. ‘It’s all present in the favourite Malaysian dishes, and that’s why the flavours are so gutsy.’

Big flavours

Former MasterChef Australia contestant Emily Yeoh, who won a legion of fans for presenting Sarawak laksa in one of the rounds on the TV program, has found that many sommeliers incorrectly presume that her Malaysian dishes are difficult to pair with wine.

‘It’s not so complicated, and surprisingly versatile in which different wines work well with the big flavour combinations,’ she says.

At Emily Yeoh restaurant in Brisbane, she likes to match the peppery Sarawak laksa with Gewurztraminer or German Riesling (which blend a note of sweetness with a firm spine of acid), while luscious Malaysian curry laksa is better suited to a dry Grenache rosé.

She also suggests a few surprising matches, such as full-bodied and fruit-forward Chardonnay with chilli crab, and rich, complex Champagne (she likes Louis Roederer) with the thick and creamy Nyonya chicken curry.

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Exploring books on sake: literary escapism

It seems as though almost everyone I know is going on holiday to Japan – and I’m filled with envy.

I drool over their pictures of ramen and yakitori, ogle the backstreets of Tokyo and gape at the landscapes spied on their high-speed train journeys.

While I wait for someone to whisk me away (invitations are welcome, please and thank you), I’ve been making do with literary escapism – dipping a toe into the sake waters, looking for the best books about Japan’s national drink.

The Story of Dassai: The Art of Sake

Anthony Rose (who wrote the Classic Wine Library’s Sake and the Wines of Japan; £35 Académie du Vin Library, 2024) has recently published The Story of Dassai: The Art of Sake (£40 First Press Editions, October 2025).

While this is a producer-funded publication, and therefore has a certain PR angle, there’s an interesting story within, covering how the relatively modern brewer shifted its focus to quality and became one of Japan’s leading names.

Kanpai: The History of Sake

Last year, too, Eric C Rath published Kanpai: The History of Sake (£17.99 Reaktion Books) – the first history of the drink to make its way into English (kanpai equates to ‘cheers’).

Academic and a little heavygoing in places, this compact publication is nevertheless fascinating, tracing sake’s evolution over two millennia and its place in Japanese history – from why it was once made almost exclusively by women to how medieval samurai had their own version of ‘splitting the G’ (ensuring that the line between the head of a freshly poured Guinness and the beer beneath bisects the word Guinness on the pint glass after your first sip).

Sake: The Art and Craft of Japan’s National Drink

For the ultimate guide to sake, however, look no further than Yoshiko UenoMüller’s Sake: The Art and Craft of Japan’s National Drink (£50 Prestel, 2024).

It swept up awards on release (taking home a James Beard and Fortnum & Mason’s Debut Drink Book 2025, to name two) and it’s easy to see why. It’s stunning – beautifully designed, the text given space to breathe, with gorgeous photography (mostly from Markus Bassler) and serious paper with a mix of finishes that all combine to make it very coffee-table-esque.

This is much more than just a pretty book, however, with thoughtful, precise and evocative writing from Ueno-Müller.

It’s broken down into three main sections: Origins (covering a brief cultural history of sake, raw materials and production), The Country and the People (a look at the places and people that define sake culture today), and A Feast for All the Senses (a tasting and drinking guide, including pairing advice – how to appreciate and enjoy sake).

She brings life to the topic with profiles of real people – brewers, mainly, but also a rice farmer and barrel-maker, for example – in among all the reference material.

It left me desperate to go and buy a whole host of bottles – and maybe book those flights myself. Kanpai, indeed.

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Enchanting and idiosyncratic

The Kofu basin opens wide below, ringed by towering mountains that seem to hold the landscape in an embrace, while Mount Fuji watches quietly from beyond.

Above my head, intertwined vines stretch across pergolas, offering much-needed shade on one of the hottest days of 2025.

Below them, low-hanging grape bunches are each crowned with a paper hat, poised for the sudden arrival of rain and typhoons – this is certainly unlike any wine region I’ve visited before.

In the past, I had travelled to Japan for its temples and gardens, the food, sake and pop culture, but this time I’m here for the wine.

With global palates leaning towards lighter wine styles and Japanese fine dining enjoying a wider spotlight, it feels like the perfect moment to uncover the stories behind the delicate yet versatile Koshu grape and Yamanashi – the landscape it calls home.

The fruit kingdom

At the heart of Yamanashi prefecture, the Kofu basin is a west-east stretching river valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides – with Mt Fuji towering further south.

The inland basin is one of the sunniest areas in Japan, enjoying an annual average of more than 2,200 hours of sunshine (Japan Meteorological Agency, 1991-2020).

Local produce such as peaches and Shine Muscat, a popular table grape, commands eyewatering premiums.

Meanwhile, Yamanashi receives around 1,000mm of rain each year – the equivalent in Bordeaux is 944mm, according to Current Results data citing Météo France annual averages 1981-2010 (published by Futura, November 2024) – yet it’s among the driest regions in Japan; and much of it falls during early summer (‘tsuyu’).

Those tiny ‘hats’ on grape bunches – individually hand-fashioned from wax paper or plastic – and arching rain-covers over the trellises are crucial in countering ripe rot, a fungal disease common during ripening.

More than 1,000 years ago, a pinkish, thick-skinned Vitis vinifera, later named Koshu after Yamanashi’s ancient name, is believed to have travelled along the Silk Road via China and settled here, according to DNA research by Japan’s National Research Institute of Brewing.

One of the most famous stories of the grape’s discovery dates to the Nara era (710-784 CE), when monk Gyoki is said to have dreamed of the Buddha of healing, holding a bunch of grapes – and he soon found a vine near Daizenji temple, and promoted it as a divine medicine to the locals.

Dawn of modern winemaking

For centuries, Koshu was planted as a table grape across Yamanashi, much of it concentrated around Katsunuma, on the southwest-facing alluvial fan shaped by the flood-prone Hikawa river on the northeastern edge of the Kofu basin, as farmers filled steep or marginal plots unsuited to rice paddies with vines.

As fresh grapes don’t last as long as rice, farmers started making wine with converted soybean presses and sake barrels, storing the home-brew in Isshobin (1.8-litre sake bottles) and enjoying it from tea cups.

In 1877, Japan’s first modern winery – Dai-Nihon Yamanashi Budoshu Gaisha (Japan Yamanashi Wine Company) – was established in Katsunuma.

Two young men, Masanari Takano and Ryuken Tsuchiya, were sent to France to study viticulture and oenology. They came back with detailed notes on winemaking techniques, which became an invaluable reference for the region.

A subtle grape

In 2010, Koshu was officially registered by OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) and it now accounts for 67% of Yamanashi’s total wine grape production.

The disease-resilient grape is traditionally trained on a complicated X-shaped pergola – and more recently in a simpler tall cordon system – to limit vigour and encourage air circulation.

Chaptalisation (the addition of sugar to unfermented grape must to raise the potential alcohol level) is widely adopted – although producers such as Fujiclair insist on avoiding it, producing gentle, ethereal bottlings such as its Kyoutou and Ginka Koshu, at just 9% alcohol.

Grace Wine tackles the issue from the vineyard – fourth-generation owner Shigekazu Misawa pioneered the vertical shoot positioning (VSP) system for Koshu in the 1990s, with a growing number of producers now trialling the method.

The producer showed me a paper published in scientific journal Fermentation, which states that the approach results in ‘elevated sugar content and a favourable malic/tartaric acid ratio’, facilitating malolactic fermentation – not always achievable with Koshu – and delivering greater flavour complexity and improved texture.

Still, it’s not a variety beaming with personality. Delicate citrus and white fruits with a gentle line of acidity form its baseline, yet this is also where the versatility lies.

The many faces of Koshu

Lumière, founded in 1885, was among the earliest producers of traditional-method sparkling Koshu and today offers a broad range that includes orange and barrel-aged editions.

For everyday drinking, Manns of the Kikkoman group makes a popular Charmat Koshu range, Kobo-no-awa (‘bubbles of the yeast’).

Among the still wines, Château Mercian’s Kiiroka (‘yellow fragrance’) focuses on the grape’s pristine citrus character, while Katsunuma Jyozo’s single-vineyard Issehara Koshu (see recommendations) delivers a surprisingly aromatic nose, a character the producer attributes to its sandy floodplain site.

Barrel-fermented and aged examples such as Lumière’s Hikari Koshu and Kurambon’s N Koshu offer richer, sensual interpretations.

Many producers also explore skin contact to build texture – one highlight is cooperative Iwasaki Jyozo’s Tokiwa ni Moyuru (‘eternally aflame’), a satisfying orange wine with chewy yellow fruits and a long finish.

But can Koshu express terroir? Grace Wine’s site-specific bottlings from Akeno, Kayagatake, Toriibira and Hishiyama offer some early answers.

So, too, does ageability.

At a vertical tasting of the estate’s signature Misawa Vineyard Koshu (see recommendations) with Ayana Misawa – the century-old family winery’s first-ever female CEO (pictured, above) and Shigekazu’s daughter – I was immediately struck by the grape’s vintage variation.

Grown on volcanic clay soils of Akeno at 700m, the 11 vintages tasted range from shy and linear to generous and tropical – while the 2013 remains vividly alive 12 years on, marked by acacia honey, yellow fruit and dried camomile.

Beyond Koshu, 28% of the region’s harvest is Muscat Bailey A, an indigenous red hybrid of Muscat Hamburg and Vitis labrusca Bailey bred by Zenbei Kawakami in 1920.

Often seen as a cherry candy-scented food companion, it can also take on a more serious guise, revealing fine-boned tannins and elegant fruit.

International varieties, especially grapes of French origin, are found sporadically, while experimental bottlings are also made using hybrids such as Delaware, Kai Noir and Black Queen.

The warming basin

The ‘fruit kingdom’ is one of the rare agricultural regions where growing table fruit can be more profitable than making wine.

The meticulous vineyard work required, coupled with an ageing population, means local wineries face an ongoing challenge in securing supplies and persuading their grower partners to retain their vineyard plantings: a concern echoed widely across the region.

Adding to the challenge is the warming climate, says Kentaro Shinoda, chief winemaker at Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery.

Average night temperatures in late August have risen by around 2°C over the past decade, he explains, posing a serious concern for veraison (the point when berries on the vine change colour as they begin to ripen) and acidity retention during the ripening period.

The producer has been trialling a new pruning method that involves cutting the tips of early shoots and encouraging fruit set on secondary shoots, pushing the ripening season back by a month – when night temperatures drop.

Meanwhile, Suntory is increasing the proportion of late-ripening Petit Verdot in its flagship Bordeaux blend Tomi Red.

Heat-resistant varieties such as Tannat, Syrah and Tempranillo and higher elevation are also key to coping with the warming summers, says Dr Hironori Kobayashi, general manager of Château Mercian, citing the producer’s Tengusawa Vineyard (at 800m-850m), in the northeast of the Kofu basin.

Grace Wine set its sights on the sun-drenched, breezy foothills of Hokuto, in the northwest of the Kofu basin, as early as 2002 – and more producers are arriving.

Fujiclair, for instance, crafts its Momochi range in Akeno while developing an ambitious 40ha sparkling-wine project in Mukawa.

Terroir talk

Although more producers, such as Grace, are producing area-specific bottlings, tapping into the region’s rich variation in soil types, orientation and elevation, ‘it’s too early for us to speak about terroir, as quality winemaking only began around 20 years ago in Yamanashi’, says Shigekazu Misawa.

But the groundwork is already there – the pioneer showed me rolls of maps created in the 1960s by the Japanese government, meticulously charting the topography of this landlocked prefecture in preparation for earthquakes.

‘Matching these maps with the region’s winemaking activities will be my life’s work,’ he says.

The younger generation is in favour of a dedicated Katsunuma GI (geographical indication) beyond the existing Yamanashi GI, according to Burgundy-trained winemaker Takahiko Nozawa of Kurambon Wine, who is leading the initiative.

He points to Katsunuma’s unique position on an alluvial fan within the Shimanto accretionary belt, with granite carried down by the Hikawa river and underlying sandstone soils.

Wines made for ‘washoku’

‘We believe in making wines to pair with traditional Japanese food,’ I was told repeatedly by producers – a tradition in which washoku encapsulates concepts such as seasonality, freshness, harmony and presentation.

They are clearly on the right path: from local speciality hoto (miso-seasoned noodles) to sushi, tempura and Japanese curry, Koshu’s subtle fruit and gentle freshness pair seamlessly with the savoury, umami depth found in dashi (seafood and seaweed stock), soy sauce and miso – the backbones of Japanese cuisine.

The reds, with their ethereal tannins and elevated red fruits, make discreet companions to iron-rich maguro (tuna), while spicier orange wines sit comfortably alongside pickled ginger and uni (sea urchin).

The price tags, driven by the heavy manual labour involved, remain an obstacle for Koshu wines to reach wider shores, but as the global appeal of washoku grows, so too will that of these wines

The subtle flavours of Japan’s top wine: a taste of Koshu, and more...

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From junmai to daiginjo, nigori to koshu, the sake world has a unique glossary of terms – most of which refer to stylistic choices made by the brewer. One of the most commonly used phrases in this lexicon is ‘nama’. But what exactly is nama sake, and how does it differ from other types of the rice wine? That’s exactly what this article will explain.

Defining nama sake

The word ‘nama’ – signified by the kanji character 生 – means ‘raw’ or ‘living’ in Japanese. It’s often used to denote a fresh, uncooked or natural product in Japan. In the world of sake it refers to bottles that are unpasteurised.

Whereas most sakes will undergo heat pasteurisation twice – once after filtration and before storage, then again around the time of bottling – sakes labelled as ‘nama’ won’t have seen this process at all.

As with other unpasteurised products, nama sake (or namazake – 生酒 – in Japanese) contains active enzymes and live microorganisms. While this brings an added element to the drinking experience, producers must use extra care when making it. ‘That means colder, faster handling after filtration and strict cold-chain storage and transport,’ says Natsuki Kikuya, sake educator at WSET.

Because of the need for cold storage in preservation, nama sake has traditionally been made only during the winter months in Japan – typically from December to March – with bottles designed to be consumed quickly before summer heat spikes.

While modern technology now allows nama to be made year-round, most producers – particularly small ones who might lack the specialised equipment required – still release it only as a seasonal ‘fresh’ bottling over winter and early spring months.

How does it taste?

There is no single flavour profile associated with nama sake. As with other sakes, character is influenced by a combination of factors. These include the rice variety, growing conditions, koji mold used and local water, as well as other stylistic elements – for example, the rice polishing standard (ie honjozo, ginjo or daiginjo).

Nama can be made with any rice type, in any place. However, in general terms, nama sakes tend to be brighter, fresher and zingier than their counterparts.

‘Nama showcases more lift and zing, often sharper and more vivid aromatics, and sometimes a soft natural spritz or “alive” sensation,' says Kikuya. 'Its flavour profile can feel more immediate and energetic than pasteurised equivalents.'

Storing and drinking

Nama sake has to be drunk cold, insists Ryosuke Mashio, sommelier at Roketsu restaurant in London. ‘While other sakes can be enjoyed warm, or at room temperature, nama has to be cold to preserve its vibrancy and fragrance.’

Maintaining those delicate unpasteurised flavours requires careful storage, and consumption within six months of production date is often recommended. ‘Cellaring is key with namazake,’ says Mashio. ‘As low as possible, between 0℃ and 5℃ or even in minus temperatures.’ Each winter when he buys a dozen bottles for Roketsu, he ensures they are transported in cold storage and keeps them in a dedicated sake fridge.

Once open, even when kept refrigerated and away from light exposure, nama sakes can develop rapidly; which, of course, is part of what makes them interesting to drink. Kikuya recommends finishing any bottles within five to seven days, whereas other sakes may keep for up to two weeks.

New styles

While nama sake is typically designed to be drunk young and fresh, just as in the wine world, the space is seeing innovation.

‘Aged nama sake is a whole new territory,’ says Anthony Yukio, sake sommelier at Kioku in London. ‘When aged at low temperature, that wild character is tamed slightly, flavours concentrate on the palate.’ He points out that the same bottle served in Japan and London will taste entirely different due to individual storage conditions, and that’s part of what keeps the category exciting.

Certain styles of nama sake can be carefully stored at room temperature too, but this can be a risky business as it pushes things into a wilder, more oxidative and nutty state. It’s best to leave this kind of ageing to venues that know their stuff (like Kioku). Be wary of nama sake that appears too hazy or is unpleasant on the nose, as it may have gone too far.

Buying nama sake: tips

Because nama sake is easily perishable it’s important to buy from quality sources – for starters, somewhere that keeps its bottles in a fridge, notes Mashio. Also do consider when you are buying it. Unless you’re deliberately seeking out an aged example, if you pick it up in late summer or autumn there’s a chance it’s been sitting around a bit too long.

Nama is a specific style and producers will usually state it on the label. Saying that, most Japanese sake labels are written in kanji, and can be difficult for English-speakers to decode – particularly when they contain many other terms.

Memorise the simple kanji character for namazake – 生酒 – and you’ll instantly be able to recognise it. Just don’t be confused by similar kanji such as namazume (生詰め) or namachozo (生貯蔵), both of which refer to single pasteurisations (before and after storage, respectively), rather than nama sake’s characteristic zero-pasteurisation profile.

Six nama sake bottles to try

Kikunotsukasa Innocent 50 Junmai Ginjo Nama Sake

£49.90/720ml, Yutaka

Made in Iwate, in the northern part of Japan’s main island Honshu, Innocent is known for its slightly lower alcohol and easier-drinking style. Produced as a junmai – which means it’s free from added alcohol or sugar – as well as nama, this is richly rice-y and white peachy. Alcohol 14%

Masumi Arabashiri Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu

£TBC/720ml, The Whisky Exchange

A higher-alcohol form of nama sake, genshu (‘undiluted’) is bottled straight from the tank without added water. This one is made by Masumi in Nagano, which has roots dating to 1662, and its robust profile can stand up well to white meats and grilled fish. Notes of fresh plum, cherry and apricot. (This year’s edition had not been released at the time of publishing.) Alc 17%

Narutotai Gingo Nama Genshu

£30/720ml, London Sake

Vibrant, sweet caramel and nut notes meet a zippy fruitiness. Produced from Yamada Nishiki rice in Tokushima, on Shikoku Island, this namazake is bottled in UV-resistant aluminium to protect it from light damage. Fruity and generous in aromatics, yet dry. Alc 18%

Tamagawa ‘Red Label’ Yamahai Genshu Junmai

£35.99/720ml, London Sake

The Tamagawa range is made by Cornish expat Philip Harper, the first non-Japanese tōji or Master Sake Brewer. His ‘3U’ approach (unfiltered, undiluted, unpasteurised) means his range is all nama. The Red Label from Kyoto uses ambient yeasts and delivers a bold profile that can pair with meats and strong cheese. Alc 21%

Tsuji Honten Evolution

£30/720ml, Tengu Sake

Containing only heritage rice variety Omachi, and unfiltered, unpasteurised and undiluted, this experimental sake is brewed using the ancient bodaimoto technique – so it’s really one of a kind. Medium-bodied, rippled with ripe fruit flavour and flecked with nuttiness and sweet spice, it’s higher in acidity and very precise. Alc 16%

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Results for Chinese wines at the DWWA continue to establish its reputation as a quality-led wine producing country.

At the 2025 competition, China has a strong year, receiving 181 medals. With two Best in Show, one Platinum and 10 Gold medals, China’s wine-producing reputation is continuing to go from strength to strength.

Two red wines from Ningxia and Shandong respectively have been awarded the top accolade, Best in Show, at the 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) – marking a historic milestone for Chinese wine at the world’s biggest wine competition.

This is the first time Chinese wines achieved the Best in Show since its introduction in 2016, replacing the former top award, ‘International Trophy’. These two wines are also the only entries from Asia to reach the top 50 this year.

Scroll down to see award-winning Chinese wines from DWWA 2025

From Rkatsiteli or China’s ‘signature grape’, Marselan to Cabernet Sauvignon entries included a diverse array of styles, including sparkling and sweet wines.

To ring in the Chinese New Year on 17 February and highlight some producers to keep your eye on, we’ve selected 15 award-winning wines from the 2025 competition to try, each awarded 94+ points.

Whether familiar with Chinese wines or looking for where to start, discover benchmark examples of the quality wines China is becoming known for.

Chinese New Year: 15 award-winning wines to try

Best in Show

Changyu, Noble Dragon N188, Yantai, Shandong 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

Our second Chinese wine in this year’s Best in Show selection comes not from the inland, fiercely continental climate of Ningxia, but from the very different coastal environment of the Shandong Peninsula; it’s also a successful blend of 75% Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère) with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Despite very different growing conditions, the lesson is the same: China is capable of making not just fruity red wines (which many locations in the wine world do well), but structured red wines in which rich tannins provide the bone structure which gives beguiling fruit flesh an inner seriousness of purpose. This dark red-black wine is dark and searching, with plum-blackberry fruits. On the palate, those fruits show both depth and textural finesse, and the supporting tannins play a key role once again in lending that fruit its dignity and gastronomic force. These two wines constitute a remarkable debut for China in our Top 50. Alcohol 13.5%

Dongfang Yuxing Winery, Geruihong Yeguangbei, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

China is a relative newcomer to the world of wine, though in other respects its civilisation pre-dates that of Mediterranean Europe (and the Chinese made mixed alcoholic beverages even earlier than the Georgians wines). Perhaps we shouldn’t be surprised, then, both at the speed at which its wine creators are learning, and the level of their accomplishments. Both were on show this year with not one but two Best in Show wines. This wine from Helan Mountain in Ningxia is a cunning blend which few in Europe would have thought of: Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% of freshening Dornfelder and 6% of Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère). It works well. The wine is a dark, opaque black-purple with fresh and alluring scents of blackcurrant and wild plum. The palate offers a seductive plunge of fruit and spice, settling on something more akin to dark chocolate but – and this is key – with the authority and detaining discipline only carefully extracted tannins can bring. It’s a revelation. Alc 15.6%

Sparkling

Devo Winery, MV03 Brut Nature, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia NV

Gold, 95 points

Captivating red apple, lemon peel and stone fruits persist over a bedrock of biscuits and toasted brioche and swirl across the delicate mousse. Long and impressive. Alc 12.5%

White

Mystic Island Winery, Yihu Qiushan Reserve Chardonnay, Penglai, Shandong 2022

Gold, 96 points

Dizzy with floral charm: jasmine, white blossom and honeysuckle aromas lead to a mouth-watering lemony freshness and wonderful smoky mineral quality which flows towards the finish. Alc 13%

Longting Vineyard, Reserve Sea Breeze Chardonnay, Penglai, Shandong 2022

Gold, 95 points

Beguiling white blossom, melon and peach perfume prevails over the invigorating citrus peel acidity and mineral undertow, with an intriguing bitter almond twist at the end. Alc 12.5%

Chateau Summer Land, Bo Series Malvasia, Wuwei, Gansu 2023

Silver, 94 points

Lovely nuances of lemon peel freshness with nettle and yellow peach aromas, hints of guavas and dry herbs. Silky texture. Alc 14.5%

Helanhong Winery, Helan Hong Jiangnan Reserva White, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2022

Silver, 94 points

Water chestnuts and melons with plenty of vanilla and buttery sweetness mixed with nectarines. Juicy, fresh and attractive. Stony finish. Alc 14.5%

Tinnyu Winery, Mono Chard, Yunnan 2023

Silver, 94 points

Toasty nuances, with notes of clove and vanilla, hints of smoke and flint, lemon and red apple. Racy acidity. Alc 14%

Red

Li’s Estate, Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2022

Platinum, 97 points

A tantalising complexity of blackberry fruit compote and succulent prunes garnished with cedar and black pepper spice and hints of green herbs. Rousing and rich with immersive tannins and a lick of warming tar on the finish. Alc 15.5%

Domaine Pushang, Marselan, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2022

Gold, 96 points

Dive deep into the waves of damson and blueberry fruit, earthy balsamic tones and intoxicating violet fragrance; bold and structured with broad tannins and herbaceous acidity. Alc 15.5%

MountainWave Vinery, Malbec, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021

Gold, 96 points

Hugely concentrated damson florals, black cherries and plums with a bewitching clove and vanilla aspect. Stylish and plush with silky tannins and a lofty, lingering acidity. Superb! Alc 14%

Pernod Ricard Ningxia, Helan Mountain Xiao Feng Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2020

Gold, 95 points

Charismatic Morello cherry, blackcurrant and plum notes are framed by the tightly-packed violet tannins and elevating acidity, and fortified by the spicy toast characters from the oak. Alc 14.8%

Sweet

Hanxiang Liquor, Nabaifu Reserva Icewine Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning 2018

Gold 95 points

Luscious apricot, mango, pear and honeyed acacia sing across the exquisitely sweet palate which is enlivened by the satiating acidity and fascinating savoury twist at the end. Alc 11%

Sanhe, Cailonglin Jinding Icewine Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning 2020

Gold, 95 points

An explosion of apricots, peaches, mangoes and raisins coat the palate and are enriched by a vivid orange peel acidity to mystify and delight. Utterly delicious! Alc 12%

Tonghua Winery, Tonghua Glory Yasay Oak Aged Icewine Vidal, Tonghua, Jilin 2022

Silver, 94 points

The nose is pure and fruity with complex orange blossom, honey, ripe mango and pineapple. Intense on the palate, long and charming. Alc 11.5%

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Last August (2025), I started a whirlwind tour of four Indian wine regions as the monsoon was drawing to its end.

During the nine-day trip, I travelled nearly 3,000km domestically and tasted over 150 wines to assess the 2025 vintage and recent bottlings from previous vintages.

I also got to review another 30 wines from Bangalore and the southern region a few days before New Year’s Eve, en route home after another trip to India.

Overall, the 2025 vintage offers ripe, round and well-polished wines that are easily approachable if made for early drinking, or will likely mature into playful and smooth reds of fine structure.

With that context in mind, if you’re wondering what else there is to know about Indian wines, here are five key facts, presented in a non-textbook style.

Scroll down to find five Indian wines to try

Where flavourful reds shine

Indian reds generally offer rich, ripe flavours, because gradual improvements in vineyard practices have helped eliminate burnt rubber tones and overly greenish characters.

Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon may traditionally be the dominant grape varieties for red wine making, but Indian vintners are also crushing an increasing number of other black grapes, including Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Grenache and Cabernet Franc.

Despite the inclination to assume that there is no vintage variation to speak of, even just comparing the 2024 and 2025 vintages makes the case for paying attention to vintage when drinking Indian wines.

The ‘unthinkable’: Pinot & Chardonnay in a sub-tropical climate

Once considered notoriously difficult to grow, the tide seems to be turning for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Though trialled in the sub-tropical climate since the birth of the Indian wine industry, very low yields made Pinot and Chardonnay production uneconomical.

With rising viticultural knowledge, yields and fruit quality have improved, and seven producers now make Pinot Noir, while 17 cellars offer Chardonnay.

Stay & sip: Wine tourism at its best

Nashik, 180km north-east of metropolitan Mumbai, is the premier wine region in the country. Originally attracting visitors for its many temples and the Hindu pilgrimage of Kumbh Mela, held every 12 years, Nashik is now renowned as India’s wine country.

Producers, both small and large, offer a taste of the wine lifestyle, and travellers gladly imbibe in picturesque settings. The concept of wine tourism is central to the offering of nearly all producers in other Indian wine regions too.

Reliable staples of Indian wine

A handful of producers – Sula Vineyards, Grover Zampa, Fratelli Wines, Big Banyan and Chandon India – are household names amongst Indian wine consumers and produce labels now regarded as classics: The Source, La Réserve, Sette, Limited Edition and Chandon Brut.

All these labels reliably deliver quality and enjoyable wines from vintage to vintage.

New kids on the block

The Indian wine scene is relatively small. New producers, however, set up shop regularly. Here are three of the new kids worth noting. Plateaux Vintners, a tiny outfit created by Ajoy Shaw, formerly of Sula Vineyards, produces a few hundred bottles a year and focuses on orange wines from Chenin Blanc.

2018 was the first vintage I tasted from Nipha Estate Winery, a small family business with cellar-door sales only. Delicious pizza and excellent coffee are on offer from the entrepreneurial teenage daughters of proprietor Ashok Surwade.

Myne has been set up by Prashanth Nair to herald the quality and unique character of Indian wine. Having tasted Myne wines from the 2023 vintage onwards, the reds are the most impressive, with generosity of fruit and richness.

Five Indian wines to try

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If sake is an acquired taste, then the world is divided into two kinds of people: those who have acquired the taste and those yet to acquire it.

For wine lovers especially, you will find many familiar elements in sake – similar or slightly higher alcohol levels, fruitiness ranging from floral and citrusy to savoury, earthy and tropical (but with generally much milder acidity), and diverse styles that include vibrant sparkling to sherry-like aged versions.

Our ability to identify the flavours of wine and our understanding of how the final drink is shaped by the raw material – from grape varieties to rice varieties and polishing ratios – together with the delicate adjustments made by the winemaker or Toji (master brewer), put us in an advantageous position to explore and appreciate sake. Let’s begin the journey by briefly talking about the basics.

Scroll down for our sake recommendations

The basics

Sake just means alcohol (酒) in Japan, whereas the rice-based drink that we know as sake is in fact called ‘Nihonshu 日本酒’, Japanese alcohol made from rice. Derived from ancient China, rice-based alcohol beverages have been made in Japan for over 1,000 years.

Many (some say 100) varieties of rice can be used for sake production. The most widely used sake rice include Yamadanishiki 山田錦, Gohyakumangoku 五百万石 and Miyamanishiki 美山錦. These are deemed most suitable for making sake due to the large percentage of the ‘white heart 心白’ – or the starch in the core.

Sake generally weighs in at around 15–20% abv (so not too far from wine), depending on the style and production method. It has just a fifth of the acidity of wine. What it lacks in wine’s crisp, refreshing acid bite, however, it more than makes up for in texture, subtlety of flavour and diversity of style.

Polishing

Quality grades are determined by the polishing ratio, or ‘Semai Buai 精米歩合’. This ratio indicates how much of the rice grain is milled away, removing the protein and fat on the translucent exterior, before the starchy core is revealed and ready to be converted by the koji mould to fermentable sugar.

Generally speaking, sake gets more expensive when more rice is milled away (at a lower polishing ratio) and tends to showcase a more delicate, fruity aroma profile. However, it’s worth noting that the milling ratio isn’t necessarily an indicator of quality. The savoury, punchy rice flavours from protein and fat, which are considered an impurity, may well be the desired style for some producers.

Fermentation

Perhaps the most significant contribution to the style and flavour comes from the aims and techniques of the ‘Toji 杜氏’, the master brewer.

For the most common production method, the rice is first washed, steamed and cooled. A small proportion of the rice is then spread out on wooden tables, where the starch is broken down into fermentable sugar by the addition of koji mould spores. Subsequently, more steamed rice, yeast, and beneficial bacteria are added, allowing the simultaneous transformation of starch to sugar and sugar to alcohol.

More variations in flavour can also come from the method used to break the rice down into a sugary porridge, where slower, more traditional approaches and careful temperature control can lead to deeper and more savoury expressions.

By the end of fermentation, the brewer has the option to add alcohol to refine the flavour profiles or keep the sake ‘Junmai (purely rice or 純米)’.

Decisions at the bottling stage, such as whether to pasteurise, when to do so, and how many times, can also shape the flavour and the longevity of the final product.

Sake styles to know

Daiginjo 大吟醸 – Super premium sake with a 50% polishing ratio. Usually showcasing elegant fruity, floral perfume with great purity and finesse. If there is no indication of ‘Junmai’ on the label, it means the sake is polished by a splash of distilled alcohol.

Ginjo 吟醸 – Premium fragrant sake with a 60% polishing ratio, can have a slight hint of savoury complexity. Also contains additional alcohol if no mention of Junmai on the label.

Honjozo 本醸造 – The entrance to the premium category – made using rice polished to 70% and up to 10% alcohol – tends to yield an easy-drinking, ‘ricey’ and less aromatic sake.

Junmai 純米 – Literally, it means ‘purely rice’. It refers to sake made with nothing other than rice, water, yeast and Koji fungus. Junmai sakes, compared to styles made with added alcohol, tend to exhibit a richer mouthfeel and more savoury and complex flavours. The term, on its own, doesn’t indicate a milling ratio. When appended to Daiginjo and Ginjo, it suggests that the premium sake hasn’t been fortified with alcohol.

Futsushu 普通酒 – ‘Basic alcohol’. The basic table sake that is widely available. There are no limits to the milling ratio, the use of rice varieties, or the choice of additives (including alcohol and sugar). Quality sakes with a wide range of flavours and styles can be found in this category, and they usually offer great value.

Broadly speaking, Daiginjo and Ginjo, with their beguiling fruity and floral fragrances, tend to be popular as chilled drinks while Honjozo and generic Junmai sakes can often offer a broader range of flavour and versatility, especially when drunk with food, and can be served at a wider range of temperatures.

Our top sake picks

While a little learning can prise the gates to sake heaven ajar, only the taste will fling them open and convert you to the delights of Japan’s national drink.

Here we have listed 21 picks, fresh from the 2025 edition of the British Sake Association’s grand tasting and beyond, covering a wide range of styles and characters – all ideal for wine lovers beginning to explore the category. Kanpai!

*Prices accurate at time of publishing

Value tries under £25

Shichiken, ‘Yama No Kasumi’ Sparkling Sake

Made in the Champagne method, this is a cheerful crowdpleaser. Melon and green fruits lead the nose with a touch of steamed rice creaminess. Lightly citrusy and vibrant with generous bubbles, it is smooth in texture and light-hearted, showing plenty of honeydew melon and a hint of yuzu peel on the crisp finish. Perfect with a wide range of dishes.

£24.50 for half bottle at Amathus

Takara Shuzo, Sho Chiku Bai Shirakabegura, MIO Sparkling Sake

A cheerful, crisp sparkling sake with a polishing ratio of 69%. Blossom, melon, freshly squeezed pear juice and steamed rice perfume. Zesty citrus on the sweet and fruity palate, accompanied by notes of banana peel and egg tart. With an alcohol content of just 5%, it’s easily enjoyable. Chilling is a must.

£5.60 for 150ml and £9.90 for 300ml at Yutaka

Akashi-Tai, Junmai Sparkling Sake

The Junmai sparkling sake from Akashi-Tai was naturally fermented in the bottle to create fizz. It features aromas of freshly steamed sticky rice and jasmine blossom on the nose, followed by a crisp palate of citrus and ripe pear, with lovely acidity to balance. With alcohol content at a mere 7%, it’s easy to drink and cleansing, making it great for pairing with raw fish.

£15 for 300ml at Master of Malt

Lachamte, Sparkling Junmai Hideyoshi

This might not be one of those crisp all-rounders but it is packed with character. For anyone who prefers a more salty, earthy and lactic style of sake, this will be a treat. Extremely savoury on the nose with miso paste, soya beans, dried figs and bacon. Zingy red-berry acidity follows, with cranberry fruits, yogurt, red apple and soya leading to a lovely savoury depth on the finish. Maybe not for everyone – but at an affordable price it could be a fascinating new discovery for you.

£15 for 280ml at Suzune

Shimizu Seizaburo Shoten, ZAKU Junmai ‘Ho no Tomo’

The producer was founded in 1869 in Suzuka, Mie Prefecture, a region blessed by the springs of the Suzuka Mountains and top-quality rice from the Ise Plain. It crafts a brilliant, fruity Junmai sake with a 60% polishing ratio. Aromas of pear skin, melon, steamed rice and cereal greet the nose. The palate is smooth and sweet, reminiscent of pear drops with crisp freshness. A quaffable beauty perfect for everyday enjoyment.

£10 for 750ml at Kurashu

Sora Junmai Sake

An easy-drinking and affordable canned Junmai sake, perfect for those who’d like to give sake a try for the first time. Creamy rice porridge and yuzu zest on the nose and palate, smooth with a gentle hint of pepper, it finishes clean on the drier side. A delightful thirst cruncher at any occasion.

£6 for 180ml at Yutaka

Browse by style: Rice only (‘Junmai’)

Heavensake, Junmai 12

The Heavensake Junmai 12 marks the collaboration of Régis Camus – the acclaimed Champagne winemaker – and Hyogo-based family producer Konishi. Savoury on the nose with seaweed, salted caramel and honeydew melon. Fresh and dry on the palate with nutty umami depth and a clean finish. An affordable entry-level sake that offers an easy way to explore the range.

£29.95 for 720ml at DrinksOne

Shichiken, Junmai Ginjo Sake

A Ginjo sake at 57% polishing ratio from Yamanashi. Creamy citrus and melon with fresh blossom on the nose. The palate shows plenty of juicy melon and ripe peach with great purity and hints of savoury, ricey umami. Easy-drinking with a velvety texture (as the label ‘天鵞絨’ suggests), fresh acids and a clean finish with a touch of peppercorn. A refreshing, classic choice.

£33 for 720ml at Amathus

Nanbu Bijin, Tokubetsu Junmai

The Nanbu Bijin Brewery was founded in 1902 in Ninohe city, Iwate. This special pure rice sake has been pasteurised only once in the bottle to best preserve the complex aroma of the raw sake. With ripe yellow apple and a hint of savoury bacon on the nose, it is gentle and smooth on the palate, featuring sweet pear and melon flavours balanced by citrus peel bitterness and mild acidity.

£34.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Kay Sake, Junmai Daiginjo

A crisp, fresh Junmai Daiginjo from Niigata. Citrusy and floral with nashi pear on the nose and palate. Creamy rice pudding richness is refreshed by decent acidity, leading to a clean finish. An light-hearted, allrounder food sake.

£34.60 per bottle at Amathus

Urakasumi, Misty Bay Junmai

Established in 1724, the Urakasumi Brewery is located in the town of Shiogama on the east coast of Japan. Fresh citrus zing overlays a nose of sweet pear and peach in the ‘Misty Bay’ Junmai sake from Urakasumi. The sake uses rice milled down to 65%, featuring a pure and soft palate of sticky rice cake and mellow pear liqueur, with a lovely line of acidity to refresh. The finish is dry and clean, with umami notes lingering on.

£35.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Dassai, 39 Junmai Daiginjo

The number ‘39’ indicates the polishing ratio and also hints at the style of this classy, refined Junmai Daiginjo from Dassai. Delicate and fruity on the nose with creamy melon, mango, pear and white blossom. Sitting on the drier side, the 39 entices with lovely freshness on a silky, well-integrated palate of white and yellow fruits, finishing with a pinch of white pepper.

£42.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Daimon, Rikyubai Hanzaemon

At the summit of Daimon brewery’s Rikyubai range, the name ‘Hanzaemon’ pays tribute to the brewery’s founder – the ancestor of the current Toji. Banana peel, yogurt and a touch of peppermint on the nose. Generous and warm exotic fruits, rice pudding and some yellow fruits on the palate, dusted with hints of sweet spices. A Junmai Daiginjo with a polishing ratio of 50%.

£42.50 for 720ml at More Sake

Shirakabegura, Junmai Daiginjo

The Junmai Daiginjo sake is made using 100% Yamadanishiki rice (milled down to 45%) and the water of Miyamizu. Red berry candy and banana on the nose, followed by gentle, pure sweetness of steamed rice and honeydew melon, with a fragrant, lingering finish.

£42.99 for 640ml at London Sake

Akashi Tai, Junmai Daiginjo Genshu

A constant resident in my fridge – this is a comforting Genshu (undiluted) Junmai Daiginjo with fantastic purity and floral charm. With a milling ratio of 38%, it boasts ripe nashi pear, melon, yuzu citrus and yogurt on the nose. Lovely citrusy freshness sits behind a mouthful of honeydew melon, rice pudding and banana peel. A satisfying sipping sake that is enjoyable even for those who are not familiar with the category.

£25.95 for 300ml at Lea & Sandeman and £47.25 for 720ml at Master of Malt

Essence 5 by Chartier, Drunk Monkey

The ‘Essence 5’ range was created by aroma specialist François Chartier. The ‘Drunk Monkey’ was crafted in collaboration with Nagayama Sake using 100% Yamada Nishiki rice at a 40% polishing ratio. Fresh and fruity on the nose with citrus, green apple peel and jasmine blossom. Silky on the palate with ripe melon, refreshed by decent natural acidity. Easy-drinking purity with hints of umami toward the finish.

£48.90 for 500ml at Mai Sake

Essence 5 by Chartier, Yamazaru Aged Sake 2019

Most sakes are made for drinking fresh but some are also capable of ageing, as this one shows. Made by the same producer of the ‘Drunk Monkey’, the ‘Yamazaru (mountain monkey)’ offers a savoury, complex style derived from six years of ageing in steel tanks. Citrusy yogurt on the nose with pronounced savoury notes of salted caramel and butterscotch. Rich and rounded on the creamy palate with rice porridge, melon, banana peel and sweet spices, backed by fantastic freshness. Complex but clean.

£59.25 for 720ml at Mai Sake

Kanpai, ‘Tori’ Junmai Daiginjo

With only 500 bottles crafted by this London-based craft sake producer, this is a serious treat for enthusiasts curious about a UK expression of Junmai Daiginjo. Ricey, savoury notes are underlined by ripe yellow fruits with hints of yogurt. Smooth and juicy on the palate with lovely freshness. An abundance of rice pudding garnished with yuzu and green apple peel. Minerality is the key point of difference here – thanks to the mineral-rich water in the UK – which tends to result in more ‘aggressive’ fermentation, according to the producer.

£60 for 750ml at Kanpai London Craft Sake

Opt for the producer’s more affordable Honjozo ‘Hiro’ Genshu (undiluted sake) for a more savoury, drier, bolder and more spiced option – which the producer recommends enjoying over an ice cube.

£38.00 for 750ml at Kanpai London Craft Sake

Browse by style: Fortified with alcohol (‘Honjozo’ & ‘Ginjo’)

Hatsumago, Densho Kimoto Honjozo

First founded in 1893, the brewery adopted the name ‘Hatsumago’ (meaning ‘first grandchild’ in Japanese) in 1930 following the birth of the family’s first grandchild. The producer is known for the traditional Kimoto method of sake brewing. This is a funky, vinous Honjozo sake, featuring a nose of bruised apple, miso paste and sour berry candy, which follows to the mild palate, in addition to almonds and citrus zing. Complex and fun.

£29.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Konishi Shuzo, Hiyashibori ‘Konishi Silver’ Ginjo

The Konishi family first started making sake in 1550, even earlier than the Itami region developed the technique of making ‘clear sake’. This is a fresh, welcoming entry-level sake featuring Jasmine rice, white fruits and pear blossom. Mellow, smooth and easy-drinking, relatively dry on the palate with a cleansing finish. One for food.

£21 for 720ml at Tengu Sake

Tosatsuru, Azure Ginjo Sake

Bottled in an ocean blue bottle and made using Yamada Nishiki rice, the Azure Ginjo sake from Tosatsuru has a vinous nose backed by tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango, in addition to fresh citrus. Ripe peach and steamed rice sweetness are well balanced with limey acidity, followed by a savoury, warming finish.

£44.99 for 720ml at London Sake

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The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) returned to Singapore for its second year, welcoming wine lovers from far and wide. The stunning Shangri-La Singapore once again opened its doors, offering a luxurious setting for guests to explore and celebrate exceptional wines.

On Saturday 22 November almost 600 attendees flocked to the event, enjoying the elegant surroundings, from the grand ballroom to the beautifully curated masterclass room. Guests experienced wines from 52 world-class producers, including the delicate Koshu wines of Japan and the premium sake of Dassai. Masterclasses offered deep dives into iconic labels, from Henschke’s celebrated single-vineyard wines and Brunello di Montalcino, to the legendary Château Margaux.

A new highlight for this year was the Editors’ Lunch, giving guests an exclusive opportunity to connect with Decanter editors in an intimate setting – another memorable addition to a day celebrating the very best of fine wine.

Special thanks to all the producers and guests for another unforgettable day, and to our official DFWE sponsor Riedel.

Photo Credits: Colossal Productions

The Tower Ballroom awaits as anticipation builds in the empty corridors.

Decanting in progress for the day's Grand Tasting.

Devon Lochhead of Boschendal and Bellingham smiles as he sets up for the tasting ahead.

Glasses being prepared for the first masterclass of the day, Brunello di Montalcino.

The Grand Tasting in full swing.

Pouring this year’s DWWA winners at the dedicated tasting table.

A look at some of the wines being showcased by the Bodegas Muga team.

Decanter's Italy Editor James Button (left) and Gerald Lu, President of the Sommelier Association of Singapore (right), explore the wines of Brunello di Montalcino.

A guest taking a moment to enjoy the aromas of one of the wines.

A beautifully set table for the Editors' Lunch, where guests enjoyed welcome drinks before a three-course menu with wines chosen by Decanter editors.

A warm moment as Regional Editor Julie Sheppard speaks with guests before the lunch.

Guests enjoying a lighthearted moment at the producer's stand.

Leading the sold-out Château Margaux masterclass: Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos and Decanter's Georgie Hindle.

Engaged and smiling – an attendee taking in the masterclass experience.

A cheerful attendee enjoying the event.

Fabio Solenthaler of Château d'Esclans presenting Rock Angel.

Federica Mascheroni Stianti brings a taste of Tuscany to Singapore with Castello di Volpaia’s Coltassala Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017.

Curious moment of focus at the stand, with guests taking time to familiarise themselves with the wines on offer.

Johann Henschke takes guests through the family’s new-release 2021 Eden Valley single-vineyard wines.

Capturing the masterclass through a guest's lens.

Leaning in, a guest studies the wines side by side, tracing the subtle colour differences in the glass.

Koshu wines of Japan took centre stage, spanning three stands at the Grand Tasting.

Shared laugher captures the spirit of the event.

Meeting, greeting and sharing a passion for wine.

A moment of conversation and smiles after the Henschke masterclass.

Dassai makes its debut, offering premium sake, captivating attendees.

Family of Silver Oak: A snapshot with their special wine.

Keepsake – each Grand Tasting guest received a tasting glass to take home.

Glasses raised, spirits high – cheers to a memorable tasting.

The iconic Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) returned for its second edition at the luxurious Shangri-La Hotel in the heart of Southeast Asia in Singapore. The event welcomed hundreds of wine lovers and connoisseurs for a one-day celebration of the very best in fine wine.

At the Grand Tasting, attendees could explore an extraordinary array of wines from leading producers across the globe. For those wishing to delve even deeper, three insightful masterclasses were hosted, featuring exceptional wines from Henschke, Château Margaux and Brunello di Montalcino.

A crowd favourite, the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) Winners’ Table showcased over 35 wines awarded with Gold, Platinum and Best in Show medals. The selection featured a diverse range of styles and origins, including Spanish and Japanese sparkling wines, Italian whites, red wines from Australia and Armenia and a sweet wine from Greece.

Out of the Top 50 wines of the 2025 competition, four were presented at the table, including Soalheiro, Alvarinho, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal 2024 and Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi, Vin Liastos, Monemvasia-Malvasia, Peloponnese, Greece 2012.

Five Platinum-awarded wines, each scoring 97-points, were also available to taste and many more Gold winners, including Lionel Gosseaume, Les Marcottes, Touraine, Loire, France 2023, one of the 30 Top Value Golds of the competition (wines under £15 a bottle at the time of judging).

Discover below the full line-up of DWWA 2025 awarded wines featured at the Winners’ Table in Singapore, and find more event highlights here.

Sparkling

• Ruggeri, Brut, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze, Veneto, Italy 2023 | Platinum, 97 points
• Il Poggiolo, Metodo Classico Pinot Nero Blanc de Noir Pas Dosé, Vino Spumante di Qualità, Italy 2020 | Gold, 95 points 
• Hokkaido Wine, Traditional Method Hokkaido Type C Brut, Hokkaido, Japan NV | Gold, 96 points 
• Can Sala, Vinyes de Can Sala Brut Nature, Cava, Spain 2015 | Platinum, 97 points 
• Legras & Haas, Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru, Champagne, France 2018 | Gold, 95 points

Whites

• Soalheiro, Alvarinho, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal 2024 | Best in Show, 97 points 
• Zýmē di Celestino Gaspari, From Black to White, Veneto, Italy 2022 | Gold, 95 points 
• Jade Select, Parea 23 Tempranillo Blanco, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2017 | Silver, 92 points
• Ktima Gerovassiliou, Single Vineyard Malagousia, Epanomi, Macedonia, Greece 2024 | Best in Show, 97 points 
• Domaine de Métifiot, Les Baux-de-Provence, Provence, France 2023 | Platinum, 97 points 
• Ktima Biblia Chora, Ovilos, Pangeon, Macedonia, Greece 2024 | Gold, 96 points 
• Vignaioli Contra’ Soarda, Vignasilan, Breganze, Veneto, Italy 2017 | Gold, 95 points 
• Brokenwood, ILR Reserve Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia 2019 | Platinum, 97 points
• Dandelion Vineyards, Enchanted Garden Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia, Australia 2024 | Gold, 95 points 
• Ambar Estate, Lustral Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, Oregon, United States 2022 | Gold, 95 points 
• Wirra Wirra, The 12th Man Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia 2024 | Best in Show, 97 points 

Reds

• Lionel Gosseaume, Les Marcottes, Touraine, Loire, France 2023 | Gold, 95 points
• Khachen Wines, Areni, Vayots Dzor, Armenia 2023 | Gold, 95 points 
• Erste + Neue, Puntay Classico Superiore, Caldaro / Kalterersee, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy 2023 | Gold, 95 points 
• Guadianeja, Paraje Alto Hungrao Tempranillo, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain 2023 | Gold, 95 points 
• Cellers Unió, Perlat Garnatxa, Montsant, Spain 2023 | Gold, 95 points 
• Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa Gran Vinya Classificada, Priorat, Spain 2023 | Best in Show, 97 points 
• Trivento, Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina 2023 | Gold, 95 points
• Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Tuscany, Italy 2020 | Platinum, 97 points
• Château de Parenchère, Esprit, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, France 2022 | Gold, 95 points 
• Ernie Els, Proprietor’s Blend, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022 | Gold, 96 points 
• Avinodos, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, California, United States 2019 | Gold, 95 points 
• Heirloom Vineyards, A’lambra, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia 2023 | Gold, 96 points 

Sweet

• Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi, Vin Liastos, Monemvasia-Malvasia, Peloponnese, Greece 2012 | Best in Show, 97 points 

Search all DWWA 2025 award-winning wines 

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Held from 12–14 November at the Shanghai New International Expo Center (SNIEC), ProWine Shanghai 2025 attracted 21,590 professional visitors. This year’s edition featured a more diversified buyer profile and increased cross-regional interaction, reflecting the fair’s growing influence in the Asian market.

At the Decanter stand, visitors explored a broad range of medal winners from Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025, representing different styles, origins and medal categories. The line-up featured wines from eight countries and 18 regions.

Wines from well-established regions such as Bordeaux and Barossa were especially popular among attendees, while discoveries from regions including Vaud in Switzerland and Southwest France also generated strong interest.

China achieved its best-ever results at DWWA 2025, securing two Best in Show, one Platinum and ten Gold medals. To celebrate this milestone, Decanter hosted a dedicated masterclass featuring 11 of these top-scoring wines, all of which were also displayed at the stand throughout the fair.

The masterclass was led by Professor Li Demei — DWWA judge, DecanterChina.com columnist and director of enology engineering at Beijing University of Agriculture. He began by introducing the DWWA judging process and scoring system before guiding participants through an in-depth tasting of the featured wines. The line-up comprised:

• Devo Winery, Mv03 Brut Nature, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China NV
  Gold 95
• Mystic Island Winery, Yihu Qiushan Reserve Chardonnay, Penglai, Shandong, China 2022
  Gold 96
• Longting Vineyard, Reserve Sea Breeze Chardonnay, Penglai, Shandong, China 2020
  Gold 95
• Changyu, Noble Dragon N188, Yantai, Shandong, China 2022
  Best in Show 97
• Domaine Pushang, Marselan, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2022
  Gold 96
• MountainWave Vinery, MountainWave Malbec, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2021
  Gold 96
• Dongfang Yuxing Winery, Geruihong Yeguangbei, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2022
  Best in Show 97
• Li’s Estate, Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2022
  Platinum 97
• Pernod Ricard Ningxia, Helan Mountain Xiao Feng Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2020
  Gold 95
• Hanxiang Liquor, Nabaifu Reserva Icewine Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning, China 2018
  Gold 95
• Sanhe, Cailonglin Jinding Icewine Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning, China 2018
  Gold 95

The masterclass also featured the first appearance of Edward Regg MW as the new Asia Regional Chair. He shared insights from his experience at the DWWA 2025 judging week and introduced the key features of the DWWA results website.

The masterclass and stand showcase together highlighted the depth, diversity and growing recognition of DWWA medal winners, while reflecting the increasing enthusiasm of the Chinese market for high-quality wines.

Search all DWWA 2025 results

See below the list of all non-Chinese DWWA 2025 medal winners featured at the Decanter stand during ProWine Shanghai 2025.

Sparkling

• Blasi Cantina, 1742 Metodo Classico Pas Dosé, Vino Spumante di Qualità, Italy NV
  Bronze 87

White

• Tenuta Viglione, Herba, Puglia, Italy 2024
  Bronze 88
• Waterkloof, Circle of Life Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin Blanc-Semillon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2024
  Silver 91
• False Bay, Slow Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa 2024
  Silver 90
• Sother, Château De Malessert 1er Grand Cru Chasselas, La Côte, Vaud, Switzerland 2023
  Silver 92
• Sother, Château De Malessert 1er Grand Cru Chasselas, La Côte, Vaud, Switzerland 2022
  Gold 95
• Plaimont, Yura, Jurançon Sec, Southwest France, France 2023
  Platinum 97

Rosé

• Domaine Alône, Sable, Vin de France, Provence, France 2023
  Silver 92

Red

• Sother, Domaine de Manoir Assemblage Rouge, Vaud, Switzerland 2023
  Bronze 89
• Cimicky, Grenache, Barossa, South Australia, Australia 2024
  Silver 92
• Cellers Unió, Perlat Garnatxa, Montsant, Spain 2023
  Gold 95
• La Magdalena, Ramblilla Old Vines Bobal, Ribera del Júcar, Spain 2021
  Silver 90
• Bodegas Teofilo Reyes, Tamiz, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2024
  Silver 90
• Don Sancho De Londoño, Real De A 8, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2018
  Bronze 88
• Château de Parenchère, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, France 2022
  Bronze 88
• Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France 2022
  Silver 92
• Château De Parenchère, Esprit, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, France 2022
  Gold 95
• Ernie Els, Proprietor’s Blend, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022
  Gold 96
• Cimicky, Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia, Australia 2023
  Bronze 86
• Plaimont, Néo Mad, Madiran, Southwest France, France 2023
  Gold 95

Sweet

• Plaimont, Saint Albert, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, Southwest France, France 2022
  Gold 95
• Weingut Korrell, Paradies Riesling, Auslese, Nahe, Germany 2023
  Gold 96
• Blasi Cantina, Mammamia Passito, Umbria, Umbria, Italy 2008
  Gold 95

Search all DWWA 2025 results

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Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) Singapore 2025, on Saturday 22 November, was an even greater success than its debut last year, the event now a fixture on every wine-lover’s calendar in this vibrant city-state.

And in an expanded programme of events, the inaugural Editors’ Lunch joined the trio of exclusive Masterclasses and the flagship Grand Tasting itself.

More than 580 guests made their way to Singapore’s luxury Shangri-La Hotel, where 52 wineries from 13 countries were waiting to pour their wines in the splendid setting of the Tower Ballroom. Wines were shown off at their best in pristine glassware from Riedel, kind sponsors of the event.

Grand Tasting

The centrepiece of any DFWE, the all-day tasting offered guests the chance to enjoy wines from top estates from around the world, poured and presented by the names behind the labels.

A walk around the Ballroom provided an exciting tour of the classic regions of France, Spain and Italy, exciting discoveries from China, Hungary and Switzerland, and powerhouses from Argentina, Chile, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the US.

And there was particular excitement at the extensive range on show from Japan.

Dassai Sake from Yamaguchi poured three Junmai Daiginjo sakes, a Nigori Sparkling and a new environmentally responsible release called Future With Farmers, which utilises ungraded Yamadanishiki rice that would otherwise be discarded but which is polished to just 8%.

Next door, Koshu of Japan showcased 18 deliciously diverse wines from nine producers, including a red and rosé from international grapes amid the sparkling and still whites from the country’s main indigenous variety of Koshu.

Special wines

As with last year, each Grand Tasting producer was invited to bring a very special wine from their collection, straight from their cellar to Singapore.

These included show-stopping large-format bottles such as the five-litre jeroboam of the 2014 grand vin from Pauillac second-growth Château Pichon Baron, and double magnums (three litres) from a host of estates including Marchesi Frescobaldi (Tuscany), Arzuaga (Ribera del Duero) and Remírez de Ganuza (Rioja).

Other stands boasted rare older vintages, like the 2005s from St-Emilion grand cru classé estate La Tour Figeac and Ribera del Duero’s Félix Callejo (both in magnum) and a 2006 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay.

Tuscany’s Tenute del Cabreo even poured its Cabreo Il Borgo 1998 from double magnum, as did Clos Apalta from Chile with its Apalta 2004.

Several winery principals had flown in especially for the event, and enjoyed pouring their wine personally for visitors.

These included Marielle Cazaux, managing director and winemaker at Château La Conseillante in Pomerol, José Ramón Urtasun, owner and winemaker at Rioja’s Remírez de Ganuza and Jake Krausz, estate director for Arkenstone Vineyards in Napa Valley.

Meanwhile, a dedicated Decanter World Wine Awards table presented 37 winners from this year’s competition, all scoring 95 points or higher.

It was a proudly eclectic and global mix, including top Cava and Prosecco alongside Japanese sparkling, and grapes as diverse as Armenian Areni Noir and Italian Vespaiola and Schiava Gentile.

Highlights were the five Best in Show winners: a Vinho Verde, Adelaide Hills Chardonnay and Greek Malagousia and a brace of Spanish reds from Priorat and Ribeira Sacra.

DFWE Singapore 2025 Masterclasses

In addition to the main tasting, guests could purchase tickets to a series of exclusive tutored sessions (individual, detailed masterclass reports to follow).

The first masterclass of the day, Montalcino across Time, was co-hosted by Decanter’s Italy Regional Editor, James Button, and Gerald Lu, president of the Sommelier Association of Singapore.

Across two key vintages, 2010 and 2020, they explored the wines of four celebrated producers – Il Marroneto, Biondi Santi, Giodo and Col d’Orcia.

In the second masterclass, which was oversubscribed by 50%, Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos, CEO and co-owner of Bordeaux first-growth Château Margaux was joined on stage by Decanter’s Bordeaux Regional Editor Georgie Hindle.

Together they presented four vintages of the grand vin across four decades – 2009, 1999, 1989 and 1985. The class also showed two vintages of the estate’s first white wine Pavillon Blanc (2018 and 1996) and the second red wine Pavillon Rouge 2009, as well as the 2018 Margaux du Château Margaux, the estate’s third wine.

The event’s final masterclass welcomed Johann Henschke, the sixth-generation winemaker and viticulturalist of his family’s Henschke winery in South Australia, and co-host Tina Gellie, Decanter’s Content Director.

Attendees were treated to mini verticals (2021, 2015 and 2005) of the iconic Shirazes Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, but also the 2021 vintages of the other new-release 2021 Eden Valley single-vineyard wines Cyril Henschke and The Wheelwright.

New: Editors’ Lunch

Finally, in an exclusive new addition to Decanter’s events programme, making its debut at DFWE Singapore 2025, was the Editors’ Lunch.

Offered to only 12 guests, this was a unique opportunity to join members of Decanter’s editorial team for a relaxed, convivial meal and engaging behind-the-scenes conversation.

Hosted by Tina Gellie, James Button and Julie Sheppard, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, the sell-out lunch at the Shangri-La’s Origin Grill, featured a curated selection of wines from eight of their favourite producers attending the event, paired with a three-course meal.

After a welcome aperitif from Champagne Taittinger, two whites and a rosé were poured for the starter course, courtesy of Mazzei (Tuscany), Cloudy Bay (New Zealand) and Château d’Esclans (Provence).

Three reds followed with the main course, kindly provided by Leyda (Chile), Château Bélair-Monange (St-Emilion) and Ovid (Napa Valley), finishing with a Sauternes from Château Suduiraut.

Our table was a melting pot of cultures, spanning India, Malaysia, Australia, Russia, Poland, Britain and of course Singapore.

Some were starting their journey in wine, others had more expertise, but all were enthusiasts, eager to find out more about the stories behind the bottles being poured, as well as the editors who chose them.

It was a memorable experience for all involved and we look forward to meeting more passionate, curious wine lovers next year.

Look out for our photo highlights from DFWE Singapore 2025 shortly – if you attended, keep an eye out as you may be featured.

The next DFWE in our international programme will be New York on 6 June 2026. Look out for more information on this, as well as the announcement of our London and Singapore dates, on our Events page.

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Our three-day weekend itinerary in Singapore will have you exploring historic neighbourhoods and heritage eateries by day, and diving into the city’s dynamic dining scene by night. Wine offerings across town cater to every palate, from premium classics to environmentally conscious labels.

Don’t miss Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore 2025 – an unmissable celebration of world-class wine. Book your tickets today.

Friday

Morning

Start your day at Chin Mee Chin Confectionery, a century-old institution on East Coast Road known for its nostalgic, time-warp charm. The signature kaya toast set is the one to order – freshly-made buns slathered with rich homemade kaya jam (coconut jam), and a generous slab of butter. Pair it with a strong cup of kopi (local coffee brewed with condensed milk) or teh-tarik, Singapore’s signature pulled tea with a tannic backbone and creamy finish.

Take a cab to Joo Chiat Road for a leisurely wander past vibrant-hued Peranakan shophouses, colourful murals and quirky boutiques. Re-caffeinate at Common Man Roasters Coffee or opt for a refreshing lager. Nearby, French bakery Merci Marcel offers a casual setting and an approachable French wine list.

Afternoon

Escape the tropical heat with visits to one of two standout museums – the Asian Civilisations Museum and the Peranakan Museum. Both offer a glimpse into Southeast Asia’s layered cultural heritage. When ready for lunch, stop by Brasserie Astoria, a retro-tinged dining room with Nordic roots and European sensibility.

Opt for the butter-fried råraka, a Swedish potato rosti, or the heartier rigatoni à la pesto with parmesan foam. The wine list, curated by Tala Chalambari, leans European and food friendly with several picks available by the glass.

Evening

Friday night calls for a cocktail or two at one of Singapore’s many award-winning bars. Atlas offers glorious martinis in a glamorous 1920s surroundings. For an understated vibe, Cat Bite Club on Duxton Road serves expertly crafted margaritas and palomas.

Once a nutmeg plantation, Duxton Hill has transformed into a charming enclave complete with restored shophouses and a thriving culinary scene.

The OG wine bar Praelum is located just around the corner, where the list – designed by Gerald Lu and his team – is broad and democratic. Featuring over 400 bottles from wine-producing regions around the world, with approximately 30 or more available by the glass at any time. That said, the real joy lies in asking what’s off the list; Lu typically has another 30 or more hidden gems from a Coonawarra Cabernet to an Austrian Rotgipfler ready to pour.

Dinner choices abound here, but two worth seeking out sit within steps of each other. At Revolver, the focus is fire. This open-flame grill with a sharp, Indian and contemporary flair serves moreish kulchette and lamb chops with rogan josh sauce.

Alternatively, book a counter seat at Esquina, a Spanish tapas bar led by Carlos Montobbio, for smoked burrata with Thai tom kha gai broth or the on-point octopus drizzled with chorizo oil. The wine list, as you might expect, leans heavily Spanish with nods to France and Australia for breadth.

Saturday

Morning

Dress casually for a visit to Tiong Bahru, Singapore’s oldest housing estate, now a trendy lifestyle hub. Built in the 1930s, the neighbourhood blends heritage art deco blocks and local grocers with modern boutiques and tiny bookshops tucked in quiet lanes.

For breakfast, sample some local fare at Tiong Bahru Market. Jian Bo Shui Kueh has been turning out delicate, rich cakes topped with pickled radish for generations, while kway teow – dark, glossy, stir-fried noodles – remains a crowd favourite.

Just down Eng Hoon Street, Tiong Bahru Bakery offers a different kind of indulgence. The crisp-edged croissants can more than hold their own against their Parisian counterparts. Enjoy the celebrated Kouign Amann with a strong espresso.

Afternoon

Alternatively, skip breakfast and save your appetite for an opulent dim sum feast at Madame Fan. At weekends, chef Pak Chee Yit presents a decadent Cantonese spread of dim sum and barbeque Peking Duck. It’s all served with free pour Champagne, currently from Baron de Rothschild. Access to the main wine list, which focuses on classic regions and labels, is available upon request.

Evening

For a pre-dinner drink, make your way to Convivial on North Bridge Road, where Sommelier-founder Yeo Xi Yang has assembled a Champagne list of remarkable depth. Each major region is thoughtfully represented, with a particular focus on grower-producers and terroir-driven styles.

Dinner options nearby span both classic and contemporary. For something French, Nicolas, a Chinatown stalwart brasserie, serves classic French cuisine accompanied by Burgundy and Rhône-focused wines. If Korean cuisine is more your style, Cote Korean Steakhouse, a polished transplant from New York, offers elegantly executed cuts and a notable selection of half bottles.

To walk off the decadence, take a stroll along Marina Bay where the Merlion faces the water, framed by the city’s striking skyline and unmistakable outline of Marina Bay Sands. If there’s time for a final glass, Le Quinze Vins stays open until midnight, serving a selection of French cheese and wines.

Sunday

Morning

Ease into Sunday with a leisurely walk through the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where tropical orchids and fern-lined paths offer a serene start to the day.

Just a short cab ride away, Air CCCC in Dempsey Hill offers a contemporary Asian breakfast of homemade kombucha and Indonesian avocado toast. Set in a restored barracks complex, Air is one of the rare Singapore restaurants with a sprawling lawn and kitchen garden. Enjoy the morning sun with an espresso or two.

Afternoon

It’s time to tick off a few of Singapore’s must-try dishes. Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice at Maxwell Food Centre, Chinatown is a top contender for the national favourite chicken and rice dish. Expect tender poached chicken, fragrant rice and a punchy chilli sauce done just right.

Both Keng Eng Kee Seafood and Jumbo Seafood handle the messy, satisfying ritual of eating chilli crab – another national icon, rivalled by a more piquant preparation, black pepper crab. Prepare to wash it all down with a pint of local Tiger beer.

If you’re after something more wine-friendly, head to The Coconut Club (Beach Road and New Bahru are closest to town). This new-age establishment offers a polished take on local favourites like nasi lemak (fragrant rice, fried chicken and sambal), laksa, and beef cheek rendang. The tightly curated wine list, curated by Matt Lamb, complements the subtle spice.

Evening

Conclude your Singapore stay on a high note at the two Michelin-star Jaan by Kirk Westaway, where the chef artfully reinterprets British classics through a modern lens, using seasonal produce and precise techniques.

For something equally special, head to Cloudstreet, another two-star Michelin, on nearby Amoy Street. Here, chef Rishi Naleendra draws on his Sri Lankan heritage and Australian training to craft an elegant eight-course experience. Wines are masterfully selected by dual-qualified Benjamin Hasko MW MS. His 350-label wine list is progressive and esoteric, spanning benchmark producers and low-intervention growers alike.

Your penultimate option today is the three Michelin-star Odette; a modern French restaurant located at the iconic National Gallery of Singapore, helmed by Julien Royer. Odette’s plates highlight the finest expression of French cuisine with an Asian zest, seamlessly matched with a predominantly French wine list curated by Vincent Tan.

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Singapore is fast cementing its place as Asia’s new wine hub, with a dynamic restaurant scene that offers a true embarrassment of riches.

From classic regions of France and Italy to the emerging vineyards of China and from bold reds to skin-contact orange, wine lovers are utterly spoilt for choice.

Here we spotlight eight restaurants worth your attention but consider this just the beginning. There are plenty more to discover.

Best Singapore restaurant wine lists

Big Wine Freaks

Decked in rich fabrics, opulent lightings, Zalto glasses and Italian Ginori 1735 tableware, Big Wine Freaks walks a fine line between a natural wine bar, wine-focused restaurant and an exclusive club, complete with an in-house DJ spinning late into the night. It’s the first international outpost of the cult Moscow and St Petersburg venues, bringing the same irreverent, high-energy vibe to the table.

The food options feature raw seafood, bite-sized starters, and mains cooked over an open-fire grill. The wine list, designed by Advanced Sommelier Goh Kher Meng, features 500 labels and 2,000 bottles from buzzy new-wave producers, under-the-radar players from Hokkaido, and an extensive vertical from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Burnt Ends

Chef Dave Pynt has built a cult following with his elevated, open-fire Australian barbecue at one-Michelin-star Burnt Ends. Except for the Champagne, fortified wines, and sakes (the last we checked, there were 20 different sakes), the wine list, curated by Neil Simon Claudio, is unapologetically Australian.

Expect a blend of classics and young gun producers ranging from Clare Valley Assyrtiko to Penfolds’ St Henri Shiraz. Scroll to the back and you’ll find a serious collection of back vintages showcasing the who’s who of Australian winemaking: Wendouree, Giaconda, Grosset and more.

Don’t miss Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore 2025 – an unmissable celebration of world-class wine. Book your tickets today.

Forma

Located in the culturally rich neighbourhood of Joo Chiat in the city’s eastern suburbs, Forma occupies a restored heritage shophouse, a Singapore architectural relic. Here, self-taught pasta artisan Lee Yum Hwa crafts homemade pasta using a traditional Italian mattarello rolling pin. Each pasta is a regional specialty, and the same philosophy extends to the wine list, curated with precision by Ronald Kamiyama.

The list is predominantly Italian, thoughtfully organised by regions and key native varietals with a distinct focus on indigenous grapes. Kamiyama also includes a handful of Italian orange and skin-contact wines – still a relative rarity in Singapore – much to the delight of restaurant regulars.

Jin Ting Wan

Located atop Marina Bay Sands towers, Jin Ting Wan overlooks Singapore’s iconic skyline alongside a vibrant menu of Cantonese dishes. Chef Albert Li draws on traditions from Hong Kong and Guangdong to craft his vibrant plates, while head sommelier Joe Yang curates the wine list.

The list is notable for its focus on Chinese wines, featuring 100 labels across six key wine-producing regions, including Ningxia, Xinjiang and Yunnan. Wines are categorised by style, featuring a mix of well-known producers like Ao Yun and Silver Heights, alongside emerging names. It’s one of the most comprehensive Chinese wine lists in the city.

Le Bon Funk

The brainchild of chef-owner Keirin Buck and wine director Jos Kjer, the restaurant embodies a similar spirit to London‘s Noble Rot: cool, classy, yet unpretentious.

Since opening in 2018, Le Bon Funk has become a fixture on Singapore’s wine scene with two outposts in Club Street and Holland Village. Buck seasonal and produce-driven plates are rooted in simplicity and finesse. At the same time, Kjer’s wine list is anchored in natural expressions, from cloudy to clean, biodynamic to sustainably farmed, each bottle sourced from an artisanal maker deeply rooted in nature. The by-the-glass selection changes regularly, and on some days, the sommelier might just surprise you with an off-menu pour.

Le Clos Wine House and Restaurant

Champagne and Bourgogne fans will find much to enjoy at Le Clos, a French restaurant and wine terrace located in the new lifestyle destination, New Bahru. The expansive list features over 4,000 references, curated by founder Jean-Christophe Cadoret and general manager Geoffrey Leotot.

French wines take centre stage, producers represented from nearly every major appellation. Leotot says their strength lies in long-standing relationships with family-owned domains, including grower Champagne and fine wines sourced through Galiena Fine Wines, Cadoret’s own import and distribution company. The on-premises cellar and deli are also worth a look, offering a selection of hard-to-find cheeses and wines.

Somma

Established just a year ago, Somma offers an immersive, fine dining experience led by Mirko Febbrile, who brings authentic flavours of his native Puglia to the table. The wine programme is curated by Vincenzo Donatiello, formerly of three-Michelin-star Piazza Duomo of Alba.

A devoted Burgundy enthusiast, Donatiello also champions lesser-known gems such as Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, offering a platform to overlooked Italian varietals. His wine list is arranged with evocative flair that parallels the culinary narrative and leans heavily on Italy and France.

For those in a rush (dinner is a three-hour affair), the extensive list is available at the Somma bar upon request.

temper

temper is the latest addition to the Singapore dining scene. Located at the Mondrian Hotel in the hip Duxton Hill area, the Bauhaus-inspired space, rendered in warm ochre tones, is both contemporary and inviting. The showpiece is the striking glass-fronted wine cellar, which is home to 2,100 bottles spanning 30 countries.

At the helm of the programme is freshly minted Master Sommelier Roberto Durán, formerly the head sommelier at 67 Pall Mall Singapore. Durán’s list is rooted in terroir-specific and low-intervention wines, showcasing cult favourite like Domaine Ganevat from the Jura and Federico Graziani from Etna.

Despite the pedigree, markups are kept in check, and the atmosphere is refreshingly free of wine snobbery – deliberately designed to appeal to a broader audience. Durán also offers 250 wines by the glass, curated by terroir, appeal and approachability.

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The global rise of hallyu – Korea’s cultural wave – has enabled Korean cuisine to step confidently into the spotlight. Following the success of K-pop and K-drama, Korean restaurants are popping up in cities across the world, introducing diners to bold flavours and textures far beyond the now-ubiquitous kimchi.

‘Serendipitously… [this] has coincided somewhat with the huge surge in popularity of “natural” wines,’ says Duncan Robertson, chef-co owner of Korean restaurants Dongnae and Bokman in Bristol. ‘They are perfect bedfellows – the flavours of Korean food being so often formed by indigenous yeasts and wild fermentation.’

For Robertson, everyone ought to know about the beloved ritual of pairing samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) with refreshing shots of soju, but with high-quality versions of the spirit and other traditional Korean beverages hard to find in the diaspora, wine – and especially natural wine – has become ‘the obvious choice’, he says, over ‘second-rate soju’.

Don’t miss the ultimate wine experience – book your tickets now for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025

Pairing potential

Sommeliers previously working in modern European settings have had to adapt. Daniel Jeffs, general manager at modern Korean east London restaurant Calong, found pairing with sesame challenging, for instance. ‘It often overpowers subtle white wines and can create bitter flavours,’ he explains. But once past the initial learning curve, he found the best pairings came naturally: bright, aromatic whites for fish- and vegetable-led dishes, and chilled, fragrant reds for meat and poultry.

At Somssi in Mayfair, a Korean fine dining venue at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, led by chef Jihun Kim, sommelier Andres Ituarte starts by asking whether a dish leans towards spicy, sweet, umami or fermented flavours. Spicy dishes are the easiest, with a rich, fruity white such as Viognier, a savoury old-vine Assyrtiko or a restrained New World Syrah softening the heat. For sweeter meat dishes such as bulgogi, he recommends earthy reds with a bit of grip, like Burgundy, Nebbiolo or Rhône blends. For eonyang bulgogi (barbecued beef) wrapped in a shiso leaf with ssamjang (a thick, spicy dipping sauce), you want something juicy, like Bodegas Albamar’s Capitán Xurelo (2022, £30-£31 Cave Bristol, Cork & Cask); Rebecca Lewis, general manager at Dongnae, calls this Galician red blend of native Spanish varieties a ‘magical bottle’ that enhances everything.

Zing is the thing

For umami-led dishes or fermented foods, vibrant wines with good acidity – such as dry Riesling or Barbera – keep things fresh, while Sherries, skin-contact wines and Ituarte’s personal favourite, oxidative Jura whites, stand up beautifully. ‘The richness and nutty character cuts like a knife through the big flavours of kimchi or jangajji [pickled vegetables],’ Ituarte explains. Skin-contact wine, others agree, is a good all-rounder. ‘Some of the less familiar flavour profiles found in skin-contact wines work well with some of the bolder flavours in Korean cooking,’ says Jeffs, citing dishes such as Calong’s take on the classic pajeon (spring onion pancake) and the spicy seafood noodle soup jjamppong.

At Dongnae, Lewis likes to pair vibrant orange wines with dishes such as the lobster naengchae, a summery native lobster and peach salad with a creamy pine nut dressing.

As Korean food grows in popularity, high-quality Korean spirits and rice wines may come into the mix. In California’s modern Korean restaurants, artisanal makgeoli (a creamy, slightly spritzy rice wine), cheongju (a clear, refined rice wine often compared to sake) and soju already feature on drinks programs, such as at Baroo in Los Angeles, where guests can choose from a wine or Korean sool (alcohol) pairing, including Korean drinks produced in the Golden State.

Jeffs notes how, at Calong, they have already begun tasting artisanal soju and are keen to feature it on their list in the future. But for now, he’s learning – like others – of the joys of pairing Korean food with more familiar tipples. As he explains: ‘One of our snacks from our opening menu, kimchi fritters, is great alongside a glass of crémant or, sometimes, just a nice lager.’

Star pairings to go with Korean food

Korean fried chicken with Champagne

Crisp bubbles cut through the rich, spicy glaze and crunchy textures, amplifying flavour while refreshing the palate. For the ultimate pairing, opt for a fruit-forward blanc de noirs, which brings enough ripeness to match the glaze.

Bulgogi with Nebbiolo

Most Korean meat dishes work well with earthy, light- to medium-bodied reds. For bulgogi, the dish’s sweet, smoky richness finds synergy in Nebbiolo’s bright acidity, forest floor depth and spicy tannins – particularly if it has some age.

Kimchi pancake with Sherry

Oxidative wines are a safe bet with the deep gamchilmat (the Korean word for umami) of many dishes. For kimchijeon (kimchi pancake), fino and amontillado Sherries have enough depth to deal with the tang of classic cabbage kimchi, and enough acidity to offset the fried pancake. Oxidative Jura white or Vin Jaune would also do the trick.

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Wine-grower Nicolas Joly, dubbed the ‘godfather of biodynamics’ and lauded for his work at La Coulée de Serrant in the Loire Valley, is the recipient of Decanter’s Hall of Fame award for 2025. 

Each year, the prize recognises an individual’s outstanding contribution to the world of wine, with Argentina’s Susana Balbo joining the star-studded list in 2024.

This year’s award highlights the pioneering work of Nicolas Joly, now aged 80, who has spent decades at the forefront of the biodynamic movement and is a staunch proponent of terroir. 

‘Leading by example, he has encouraged winemakers the world over to focus on the health and sustainability of their vineyards and to produce wines with a genuine sense of place,’ writes Beverley Blanning MW in a special feature and exclusive interview in Decanter magazine’s October 2025 issue.

‘Joly was a man well ahead of his time,’ writes Blanning. ‘When he started his wine-growing journey, few people were talking about organic viticulture and biodynamics was virtually unheard of.’

Having initially worked in finance, Joly returned to the family vineyard domaine in the 1970s and, after studying oenology at the University of Bordeaux, set out on a new path as a vigneron. 

Joly’s parents had relocated to Savennières from Angers in the early 1960s, to a property that included La Coulée de Serrant, a prestigious single-vineyard appellation in continuous production back to the 12th century.

After reading about the biodynamic principles previously espoused by philosopher Rudolf Steiner, Joly embraced an alternative approach to wine-growing at a time when use of agro-chemicals was widespread. 

‘We were treated like a sect,’ he recalls to Blanning in the Hall of Fame award feature. 

Leading wine-growers from across France soon took notice, however. Lalou Bize-Leroy, co-manager of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti at the time, was an early visitor to Joly, writes Blanning.

Alongside returning La Coulée de Serrant to its former glory, Joly founded ‘Renaissance des Appellations’ at the turn of the century. 

His daughter, Virginie, now helps to oversee day-to-day running of the organisation, which has more than 230 wineries worldwide as members, but Nicolas remains its leader. 

Olivier Humbrecht MW, an early member and owner of biodynamic Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, said, ‘Nicolas was the first person who knew how to speak about biodynamics and make it fun and interesting.’ 

Ronan Sayburn MS, Co-Chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards, said, ‘He’s fascinating to listen to, and because he is such an extreme personality, he drives things no one else would.

‘As a sommelier, I always wanted to recommend Coulée de Serrant because when it’s great, it’s magnificent.’

Read Master of Wine Beverley Blanning’s full article on Hall of Fame 2025 award winner Nicolas Joly 

Wu Xiuyong: Decanter’s Rising Star for 2025

Decanter has also announced that this year’s Rising Star award goes to Wu Xiuyong, who has forged a formidable winemaking career in China’s Ningxia region while also championing rural education for women and girls.

She is the fifth recipient of the award, following on from sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier in 2024.

As head winemaker at Dongfang Yuxing in Hongsipu, Ningxia, Wu is the driving force behind one of two Chinese wines that won coveted Best in Show medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025.

Combining 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Dornfelder and 6% Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère), the winery’s Geruihong Yeguangbei 2022 was described as ‘a revelation’ by DWWA judges. 

It represents a milestone for this Ningxia sub-region, but it also reflects Wu’s skill, grit and determination.

Wu grew up in a family of modest means in rural China, and her father passed away when she was just 13 years old, writes Sylvia Wu, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Asia in an exclusive feature in the magazine’s October 2025 issue. 

Yet, the family believed strongly in education. Wu built on a long-standing interest in plants and the natural world by studying horticulture at Ningxia University, which counts many of China’s leading winemakers among its alumni. 

Wu’s early career included a first job at Xixia King, the first winery established in Ningxia, and later the establishment of her own winery, Yunkou, in 2008.

After several years of developing her skills and understanding via hands-on experience, as well as learning from leading wine world stars in China and beyond, Wu received an invitation from Liu Quanzu, owner of Dongfang Yuxing in Hongsipu.

Despite the winery only being half-built when she arrived, Wu decided to stay – a decision that has turned into a decade-long commitment. 

Today, alongside scouring Hongsipu for the best sites and fruit, Wu lectures at Ningxia University. In 2023, she received a National Labour Day Women Pacesetter award, which recognises outstanding women across a wide range of professions in China.

‘All the pride, sense of accomplishment and joy I find in life are linked to wine,’ she said. 

Professor Li Demei, DWWA judge and a leading Beijing-based wine consultant, said, ‘Wu Xiuyong’s passion, curiosity and drive have earned her wide respect in Ningxia’s wine scene. 

‘Despite the remote and demanding conditions of Hongsipu, she has persevered and emerged as a rising star.’

This article follows the Chinese convention of placing the surname first.

Read the full article on Wu Xiuyong in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue

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Taiwan might be better known for microchips and bubble tea. Wine is probably the last thing you’d expect from this subtropical island, frequently battered by typhoons.

Yet in recent years, this lush, mountainous land on the edge of the Pacific has begun to make a name for itself for its viticulture.

Production remains tiny, but the fact that bottles from Taiwan reached the UK market in 2024, and that the WSET London School hosted the world’s first Taiwanese wine masterclass recently, shows that the island’s wines are stepping into the international spotlight.

Four wines from Taiwan listed below

Herculean viticulture

The Portuguese once called Taiwan ‘Formosa’, the ‘beautiful’ island, after glimpsing its emerald peaks from afar in the 16th century. Beautiful it may be, but viticulture here is anything but easy.

Situated between the tropics and subtropics, Taiwan faces heat, humidity and the constant threat of typhoons.

Summer brings 85% humidity and 36°C days, while mountain vineyards endure more than 3,000mm of rain a year.

This is why most vineyards are planted on the fertile western plains, where the Central Mountain Range offers some shelter from typhoons and reduces the risk of excessive rainfall.

If winemaking is challenging in Bordeaux, in Taiwan it is Herculean. Yet from this adversity, a unique wine identity has emerged.

Alcohol-production is nothing new here. Indigenous communities, who have lived on the island for more than 6,000 years, long brewed millet wine. During Dutch rule in the 17th century, sugarcane was used to produce rum.

Viticulture, however, only took root in the early 20th century under Japanese occupation (1895-1945). However, for decades, grapes were grown more for yield than flavour under a government monopoly.

Reign of the hybrids

You won’t find international varieties here, as they struggled, but hybrids like Black Queen and Golden Muscat flourish in the heat and humidity.

The lifting of the 80-year monopoly in 2002 gave space for a new generation of growers and winemakers. With the government research centre creating six new grape varieties unique to Taiwan, the stage was set for reinvention.

Over the last decade, producers have embraced experimentation, overcoming subtropical extremes to produce bottles that surprise and delight.

Today, there are fewer than 20 commercial wineries cultivating fewer than 100 hectares of vineyards – a sharp fall from the 3,000 hectares planted during the monopoly.

Small in scale but ambitious in spirit, two names stand out in shaping the island’s modern wine story: Domaine Shu Sheng and Weightstone Estate & Winery.

Ambitious spirit

Domaine Shu Sheng, run by the Hong family, is one of the earliest grape-growing pioneers. It was among the first to bottle independently after the monopoly ended.

Today the winery works closely with Professor Chen Chien-Hao, a Burgundy-trained winemaker and now a leading academic, to create fortified wines inspired by Madeira.

Matured in sweltering tin-roof warehouses, they show how Taiwan’s extreme conditions can be turned into an opportunity.

Weightstone, founded in 2010, tells a different story. Despite having no background in wine or grape growing, estate director Vivian Yang returned home to continue her late father’s project.

Yang’s father believed in the potential of a new local grape, Musann Blanc, and purchased vineyards in central Taiwan at 500 metres above sea level. But he passed away soon after they had been planted.

Under Yang’s leadership, Weightstone has become the island’s most experimental winery, producing sparkling Black Queen, oak-aged Musann Blanc, orange wine and natural-leaning styles in tiny volumes.

Already winning multiple awards and exporting to Hong Kong, Singapore and the UK, Weightstone is helping put wines from Taiwan on the international map.

Wines from Taiwan may be small in scale, but they are big in personality. They defy assumptions of what tropical viticulture can achieve, turning hybrids into distinctive, often award-winning bottles.

For adventurous drinkers, the island offers something unique: wines rooted in resilience, rich in lychee-scented tropicality, and unmistakably their own.

Wines from Taiwan – four to try

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On Saturday 22nd November 2025, the luxurious Shangri-La Hotel will once again host Southeast Asia’s most exclusive celebration of fine wine in a one-day event that brings the world’s greatest producers under one roof.

Sip your way through the Grand Tasting, featuring esteemed names such as Château Pichon Baron, Laurent-Perrier, Marchesi Frescobaldi, Silver Oak and Ao Yun, alongside winners from the 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards – the world’s largest and most influential wine competition. Each producer will pour five exceptional wines plus a special library wine from their cellars. This year also sees the debut of Dassai sake from Japan – a must-try for adventurous wine lovers.

Go beyond the tasting ballroom with three unmissable masterclasses from Henschke, Château Margaux and Brunello di Montalcino.

Step deeper into the world of fine wine

Château Margaux – Four Decades of Château Margaux

Experience the elegance and history of one of Bordeaux’s legendary First Growth estates through a guided tasting of rare vintages from this historic vineyard. A once-in-a-lifetime tasting spanning four decades. With over 500 years of winemaking heritage, Château Margaux is recognised worldwide for its, complexity, balance and ability to age. Taste eight wines including two vintages of Pavillon Blanc: 1996 and 2018 (96 points), acclaimed reds: Margaux du Château Margaux 2018 and Pavillon Rouge 2009 (93 points) and a vertical of Grand Vin  featuring 2009 (95 points) 1999, 1989 (97 points) and 1985 (95 points).

Brunello di Montalcino – Montalcino across Time: Exploring the 2010 & 2020 vintages

Journey to the heart of Tuscany with an exceptional side-by-side tasting from four acclaimed estates- Il Marroneto, Biondi Santi, Giodo and Col d’Orcia, across two key vintages: 2010 and 2020. Tasting from the cooler northen slopes to the warmer south, You’ll uncover the subtle stylistic differences that make Brunello di Montalcino one of Italy’s most celebrated DOCGs. Highlights include Podere Giodo 2020 (95 Decanter points), Il Marroneto 2010 (95 points) and 2020 (96 points).

Henschke – Excellence in the Eden Valley

Discover the story behind one of Australia’s most celebrated family wineries, famous for its handcrafted, site-expressive wines from the Eden Valley, Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills. Six generations of winemaking tradition have shaped its reputation as a benchmark in Australian fine wine. In this rare masterclass sixth-generation winemaker Johann Henschke presents the family’s new releases alongside perfectly matured vintages from legendary old-vine sites. Highlights include The Wheelwright Shiraz 2021 (96 points) Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2021 (96 points) and the extraordinary Hill of Grace Shiraz 2021 (98 points).

Credit Colossal Productions

An all-new experience: The Editors’ Lunches

Debuting in 2025, the Editors’ Lunches offer guests intimate, wine-led dining experiences with Decanter’s Regional Editors and world-class winemakers. Set in the relaxed elegance of the Shangri-La, these lunches will pair exquisite dishes with outstanding wines, alongside stories and insights shared by some of the most respected names in the industry. Full line-up to be announced soon.

BOOK TICKETS

Essential information

DFWE Singapore

Date: Saturday 22 November 2025 from 11am to 5:30pm

Location: 22 Orange Grove Road 258350 Singapore 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets SGD 165 pp | Masterclass tickets SGD 200 – SGD 450

Tickets for the DFWE London are on sale now!

Join us at the iconic Landmark London on Friday 7th and Saturday 8th November 2025 for a two-day celebration of the world’s finest wines – with walk-around tastings, exclusive VIP lunches and masterclasses featuring 2012 Vintage Champagne with Charles Curtis MW, Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Antinori.

Tickets are selling fast: Buy your tickets here

In 2015, Kawai founded luxury wine bar La Terre before leaving to focus on his wine consulting business. Named Best Sommelier of the Year three times in the Singapore World Gourmet Series Award – in 2013, 2017 and 2019 – Daisuke has been inducted into the same event’s Hall of Fame for Best Sommelier. @daisuke_kawai0109

My first memorable wine experience

It was around 30 years ago and I was a young child. After an argument with my mother, I stole and opened a bottle of wine from our fridge at home – and proceeded to finish more than half the bottle, on my own. (I tried to finish it all, but couldn’t manage it, thankfully!) I don’t remember what the wine was, but I remember that it was a white wine, made in Japan, and I remember that to me it tasted dry and bitter. That was my very first wine experience.

My go-to everyday wine

Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills in Australia. Fruity, juicy and pure, with intense, fresh, grassy and citrus aromas. Still not bored after drinking it for more than 25 years!

My favourite supermarket buy

Kendall Jackson, Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay from California. Perfect balance of fresh and tropical fruits, with a kiss of vanilla from light oaking.

Most embarrassing moment at work

I find it deeply embarrassing when I cannot catch a guest’s eye before they actively seek assistance. This is tied up in my philosophy of service and hospitality. Our primary function is to provide service to our guests – even before our function as a wine professional. We should anticipate and provide for our guests’ needs before they have to look for someone to ask.

Pet hate

Laziness. All sommeliers and other waiting staff should pay attention to every detail of everything, for every second during service, giving 100%.

My death row food and wine pairing

Of course Champagne! Laurent-Perrier’s elegant Grand Siècle Itération 20 – this iteration is old and very hard to find, as the current release is Itération 26. Paired with sushi, as it is my country’s traditional dish.

Best food and wine match at my restaurant

A simple Sherry, Bodegas Barbadillo Pastora Manzanilla Pasada en Rama, with aged jamón Ibérico bellota. The wine has the perfect balance of freshness and yeasty depth, and brings out the jamón’s umami character. Heavenly.

My fallback quick after-work meal (and wine match)

Asian-style noodles with Tiger beer, since I am in Singapore!

Wine on my list I am most proud of

Château Figeac 1977. I had two bottles in stock, one of which a regular guest ordered and shared with me. I will always recall the intense aromas of rose petals, black fruits and aged tea leaves. Charming acidity, a velvety texture and a long finish. I brought some back from the château when I visited.

The wine on my list that surprises guests

Les Arums de Lagrange, a white wine made by Bordeaux’s Château Lagrange. Sauvignon Blanc-dominant, blended with Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, it’s beautifully balanced and has floral, citrus and vanilla aromas with a fresh texture. Guests are often surprised that dry white Bordeaux can be so good.

Wines I would avoid ordering from a restaurant list

Older vintages of white wines made for drinking young. Unfortunately, not all wine lists are rigorously managed, and sometimes white wines that are past their best are still in stock and on the list.

Wine style I’m most excited about

Franciacorta from Italy. These traditional-method DOCG sparkling wines come in different styles, but you don’t see them a lot as they aren’t widely exported. This applies especially to the Riserva bottlings, which are a must-try for their biscuity, buttery, nutty, amazing autolytic character.

Wine region that offers the greatest value for money

Still in Italy, Alba in Piedmont. Barolos and Barbarescos made by lesser-known producers can offer great value and enjoyment. But simple Barberas can also be delicious – medium-bodied wines with good acidity that can be enjoyed with friends and paired with so many dishes.

My favourite wine region to visit

It’s not a single region, but I’ll say England. I visited Ridgeview in East Sussex in 2023, Black Chalk in Hampshire in 2024 and Gusbourne in Kent in 2025, and am now looking for another vineyard to visit in 2026! While I’m in the UK, I always try to get to La Trompette in west London.

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The St. Pierre family founded ASC Fine Wines in 1996, and it grew into one of China’s largest wine importers.

Suntory purchased the company 15 years ago, but the founders have now completed a deal to buy ASC Fine Wines back from the Japanese group.

The long-anticipated deal was finalised on 2 June after both parties formally signed the share purchase documents.

Don St. Pierre Jr., executive chairman and CEO, who co-founded the company with his father, said on Tuesday: ‘Today marks both a homecoming and a springboard into the future.’

He unveiled a new strategy called ASC NextGen, which is designed to meet the next wave of opportunity for wine sales in China. ‘ASC NextGen is about scaling our legacy with renewed energy, agility and innovation,’ he said.

The revamped strategy focuses on three pillars:

• Reinforcing ASC’s traditional distribution strengths across major cities and online retailers.
• Expanding direct to consumer sales, primarily via digital tools, social media and a newly launched membership club called The VintEdge Society.
• Introducing brand partnerships tailored to meet China’s complex market dynamics.

ASC has partnered with a renowned logistics group called GFS in a bid to deliver upon this bold new vision. GFS will provide dedicated infrastructure and warehouse support across 23 of China’s largest cities.

‘Our collaboration ensures quality, reliability and innovation at every step of the wine journey,’ said Jianmin Yu, chairman of GFS.

The ASC portfolio features more than 1,200 labels, which have been sourced from more than 100 wineries, including famous names like Vega Sicilia and Banfi.

Monica Xu St. Pierre, lead director at ASC, added: ‘This is about unlocking the full potential of our people and our culture, while shaping a sophisticated wine experience in China.’

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A massive 7.57-litre bottle nicknamed ‘The Himalayan’ sold for $18,750 at the world’s first auction of wine made in the mountainous kingdom of Bhutan.

Only two of the giant bottles – the volume of which represents the height in kilometres of Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed mountain – were filled, with the second due to be given to the King of Bhutan.

The grapes used to make The Himalayan were harvested in 2023, with the vintage producing a single barrel.

The wine is a blend of all the black and white grapes harvested during the inaugural season.

Bhutan’s first commercial harvest took place last year, with the resulting vintage due to go on sale this month at The Bhutan Wine Company’s tasting room in Thimphu, the country’s capital city.

The company was founded in 2018 by Mike Juergens and Ann Cross, who planted their first vines the following year.

‘This is more than just a wine sale. We haven’t just created a winery; we’re building an entire wine industry in Bhutan,’ said Juergens.

‘After investing more than a decade of our time, energy and resources, seeing The Himalayan – made from Bhutan’s first-ever vintage in 2023 – achieve this milestone is deeply rewarding.’

Amayès Aouli, global head of wine and spirits at Bonhams, the auction house that hosted the online sale, added: ‘We are incredibly honoured to have made history with the first-ever auction of a wine from Bhutan.

‘This milestone not only celebrates the emergence of a new wine region on the global stage but also reflects our commitment to build exciting and extraordinary auctions.

‘Congratulations to the passionate team behind The Bhutan Wine Company – this is just the beginning of a remarkable journey for them.’

In total, the 21 lots sold for $74,250 during the online sale, which ran on 3-24 April.

Other highlights at the auction included two lots containing a five-litre bottle – or ‘Bordeaux Jeroboam’ – which each fetched $6,875.

Three lots consisting of a double magnum also went under the hammer, with one selling for $4,000 and each of the other two changing hands for $3,000.

A further three lots each containing a pair of magnums sold for $3,250, $3,000, and $2,000.

Some of the lots were sold with ‘experiences’, which included week-long guided tours of Bhutan, winery tours and private tastings.

The company owns about 81 hectares (ha) of vineyards, with around 20ha currently under vine.

Those vineyards vary in elevation from 150 metres (m) to a jaw-dropping 2,790m.

The Guinness Book of World Records lists a vineyard in Tibet as the highest on the planet at 3,563.31m.

In comparison, Terrazas de Los Andes’ El Espinillo vineyard in the Uco Valley’s Gualtallary appellation sits at 1,650m above sea level.

The Bhutan Wine Company has planted nine black grape varieties: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah, and Tempranillo

The producer is also cultivating nine white varieties: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Petit Manseng, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminette, and Vidal.

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I guarantee you will never have stayed anywhere quite like Argos in Cappadocia. The result of a huge restoration project of a thousand-year-old monastery, the luxury resort sits in a magical landscape of fairy chimneys; hot air balloons floating peacefully in the sky.

Occupied by the Hittites, Romans and Byzantines, Cappadocia’s fantastical landscape was created by a series of volcanic explosions. The volcanic ash formed soft tuff rock, eroded by the elements over time into serpentine valleys and dramatic rock spires that rise like an enchanted castle from the flat Anatolian plain.

For centuries the Cappadocians chiselled homes out of the tuff, creating comfortable cave dwellings, with the stone keeping rooms cool in summer, warm in winter. In the Middle Ages, Byzantine Christians took refuge in the region, building cave churches, chapels and monasteries, decorated with colourful frescoes. Visit Göreme National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, to see the best examples.

Rock on

While the region is known for its cave hotels, Argos in Cappadocia offers more than a taste of underground living. Opened in 2010, the resort is built on the former site of a Byzantine monastery and set around an entire village, with winding cobbled streets, caves, a network of tunnels and historical houses. Each one of the 71 rooms and suites is unique.

Decor in the stone rooms features natural tones and textures, creating an atmosphere of calm, with locally woven rugs and wall hangings adding splashes of earthy colour. It’s a perfect blend of traditional and contemporary style that’s echoed throughout the resort; from the relaxing spa and outdoor pool to the pretty terraced gardens dotted throughout the village.

Turkish delight

Organic vegetable gardens planted on the terraces supply the resort’s two restaurants, Seki and Nahita. Their hyper-local, farm-to-table menus feature ingredients sourced directly from local farmers and producers, for a real taste of Turkey.

Dishes at Nahita showcase local Anatolian cuisine, including – my favourite – traditional manti, Turkish dumplings stuffed with lamb, served with rich chick pea sauce and garlicky yogurt. Nevşehir tava is a rich beef stew, with garlic and peppers, cooked over a wood fire. Save space for the apple and olive oil baklava for dessert.

Seki’s menu features more international dishes; think salmon ceviche, grilled seabass with gorgonzola sauce and chocolate souffle. Though its Turkish options are more tantalising. They include antep fistikli rafik, a moreish dip of aged feta, goat’s curd and pistachio, and testi kebab, a tasty Cappadocian speciality featuring small chunks of meat cooked in a clay pot.

On the wine trail

Wine lovers may be more interested in what lies beneath Seki however… The network of tunnels and caves below the restaurant has been converted into the resort’s atmospheric wine cellar. With space for up to 75,000 bottles of wine, it’s the largest wine cellar in Turkey.

Take one of the regular tours through sections of the 5.5km trail of tunnels and you’ll spot the archaeological evidence of early winemaking, an olive press and the clay amphoras used for storage. Indeed the Anatolian region of central Turkey has a long association with wine. Evidence of grape-growing and winemaking here dates back 7,000 years.

There’s also evidence that wine played a key role in Anatolia’s ancient Hittite empire (1650-1200 BCE), both in ritual ceremonies and in everyday life. Archaeologists have discovered cuneiform tablets showing that the Hittites even had specific words for different types of wine.

A taste of Anatolia – and beyond

To experience the different types of wine being made in Anatolia today, book in for a tasting in the cellar, featuring local bottles from the resort’s own Argos winery. Native Anatolian varieties such as Kalecik Karasi, Boğazkere, Emir and Narince are planted at 900-1,300m in the Gülşehir and Sofular vineyards, alongside international grapes such as Chardonnay and Shiraz.

The volcanic soils lend these wines a characteristic minerality. Highlights of my tasting included the fresh, citrus Nahita Dokya Emir 2022 – featuring the region’s signature white grape, Emir – and light red Nahita Dokya Kalecik Karasi 2021, packed with vibrant cherry and pomegranate fruit. Tours to the winery can also be arranged if you’d like to taste in situ among the vines.

But oenophiles will also enjoy exploring the wide selection of cuvees stored in that huge cellar; numbering a mighty 22,000 bottles on my visit last year!

The wine list at Nahita features a comprehensive choice of Turkish wines, as you’d expect, alongside a rollcall of famous international names. From Château Margaux and Louis Latour to Gaja and Antinori, Guigal and Dr Loosen, via Cloudy Bay and Opus One. Enjoy a memorable glass on the terrace at sunset, as the tuff rocks of Pigeon Valley below glow pink, orange and red in the setting sun.

What to do

Aside from wine, there’s plenty to do here, including local culinary tours and cooking classes, bike trails, horseriding, sunrise yoga and mystical full moon walks. But Cappadocia’s calling card is its hot air balloons, which offer an aerial view of the striking rock formations, peaks and valleys below.

Indeed Cappadocia is one of the most popular destinations on the planet for hot air ballooning. The resort can organise private or group balloon rides; which take off from the bottom of the valleys just before sunrise and float across the landscape.

Even if you aren’t keen to jump on board, get up at sunrise, wrap up warm and go outside to watch hundreds of balloons fill the sky. It’s an unforgettable sight that sums up the appeal of this unique corner of the world.

Standard room rates start from €335 a night. For further details, see the hotel’s website.

How to get there:

Connecting flights to Cappadocia depart regularly from Istanbul. The stylish Vakko Hotel & Residence, in the fashion district of Istanbul, makes a great twin-stay with Argos in Cappaocia to experience the vibrant Turkish capital. Double rooms from €600.

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Known for its subtle, semi-aromatic character and, increasingly, its versatility, Koshu has been gaining attention in Western markets with limited but growing distribution in the UK and US.

From the classic crisp and ethereal style to more textured ‘sur lie’ expressions, the pink-skinned grape is now used to produce a wide range of wines, including sparkling and orange.

The best examples are earning top awards at international competitions. The most recent was the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards, where Suntory’s Tomi Koshu 2022 became the first Japanese wine to achieve the top accolade – Best in Show. Koshu Misawa Vineyard, the flagship cuvée from boutique family producer Grace Wine, was also among Decanter’s top-scoring wines last year.

Scroll down to see 13 Koshu wines to try

Read on to explore the history of Koshu and discover 13 Koshu wines worth seeking out, recently tasted at the annual Koshu of Japan event in London.

Yamanashi, home of Koshu

Koshu is a native Japanese grape variety that has been grown domestically for centuries, but has only been used for winemaking since 1874. It was considered to have originally come from China via the Silk Road, according to the domestic trade organisation, Koshu of Japan.

The name ‘Koshu (甲州)’ comes from the ancient kingdom of ‘Kai (甲斐)’, which is located in the area now known as the Yamanashi prefecture. It now covers 480 hectares (ha) of vineyards in Japan, with 95% grown in the Yamanashi prefecture, in the shadow of Mount Fuji.

According to local legend, there are two tales about how the Koshu grape was discovered.

The first is that during the Nara period (AD 710-784), a well-respected monk named Gyōki had a dream of Bhaisajyaguru (the Buddha of healing and medicine), who was holding a bunch of grapes. Gyōki made a wooden sculpture depicting what he saw and on his way to deliver the sculpture to Daizenji Temple in Katsunuma town, he discovered a grape vine. Assuming this was a divine gift, Gyōki used it for medicinal purposes.

The other version of the story is less mysterious. In 1186, a Katsunuma villager named Kageyu found an unusual species of wild grape on his way back from a religious ritual. He took the seeds and planted them in his own farmland. Five years later, the vine finally started to produce purple-red fruit. Legend has it that Kageyu presented the Koshu grape to Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first Shōgun of the Kamakura government.

Koshu was seen as a table grape for centuries, until 1870, when a monk and a businessman joined forces to start making wine in a temple. They decided to give winemaking a try as they had seen Westerners drinking grape wine in Yokohama, then a major port and base of foreign trade in Japan.

Inspired by the soybean press used for making miso paste, they brought in their own wooden hand press, as well as large sake barrels to store their wines.

In 1877, Katsunuma established its own winemaking company literally named ‘the Great Japanese Wine (大日本葡萄酒会社)’, and sent two young pioneers, Takano Masanari (高野正誠) and Tsuchiya Ryuken (土屋龍憲), to study viticulture and oenology in France. This move marked the dawn of modern winemaking in Japan, as recorded by the official textbook of Japan Sommelier Association.

Viticulture

In 2004, UC Davis conducted DNA research on Koshu and confirmed its status as vitis vinifera. It is believed to have travelled from Europe via the Silk Road to China and then to Japan.

The vast majority of Koshu grapes are produced in Yamanashi – Japan’s ‘Home of Fruits’ at the foothills of Mount Fuji – which features volcanic soils with clay, gravel and silt.

In his 2023 Expert’s Choice, Hayato Kojima reported a production of 3,300 tonnes in the region in 2018, based on figures provided by Japan’s national tax agency – although not all of the production is used for winemaking.

According to the prefecture’s official site, the region had 400ha of Koshu grapes planted by 2015.

Being a major fruit-producing region in Japan for over 1,000 years, Yamanashi is one of the driest regions in the nation. Even so, the average rainfall in Katsunuma town can reach over 1,000mm per year, with nearly 80% of that falling during the growing season.

Sufficient rain, combined with a high-vigour grape variety, makes yield control difficult for growers.

Traditionally, both issues are addressed by training the vines high above the ground on an X-shaped pergola system, with long cordon pruning applied as a more recent, easier-to-manage alternative. Pioneering producers such as Grace Wine and Suntory’s Tomi no Oka Winery are also trialling a vertical shoot positioning (VSP) system, and are already achieving impressive results.

Although Koshu grapes have thick skins, to better protect them from continuous rain, traditionally growers adorn individual bunches with ‘hats’ (mostly made from wax paper), showcasing an incredible display of attention to detail. Modern methods such as overarching plastic rain covers are also used as a less labour-intensive way to keep these pinkish bunches dry and healthy.

Flavour profile

For much of its history, Koshu was crafted as a sweet and fruity wine – until the 1980s, when local producers began exploring drier expressions and ‘sur lie’ styles.

A delicate, semi-aromatic grape, Koshu typically lends itself to refreshing still and sparkling wines with subtle notes of yuzu, kabosu (Japanese lime), pear blossom and steamed rice. Its bright yet unobtrusive acidity lends a sense of purity and finesse.

When aged on the lees or in used barrels, Koshu gains body, texture, more umami depth and even a gentle grip. Extended skin contact reveals more red fruit characteristics, often taking on an orange hue.

Winemakers tend to eschew excessive new oak, allowing the grape’s pristine, understated elegance to shine.

With its elegant profile, Koshu is a natural companion to seafood and the more subtle, umami-rich Japanese dishes – with sushi and tempura among the top options.

Koshu wine: 13 bottles to try

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Wood Chen, the former chairman of electronics giant Yageo Corporation, was linked to a fake wine scandal last summer.

Taiwanese media outlet Business Today received a tip-off claiming that the country’s elites had been caught up in a series of fake wine transactions.

The wines allegedly pointed to Wood Chen, who has been selling off his collection to friends, either directly or via merchants, since 2019.

In a bid to clear his name, the billionaire collector brought in Downey and her team at Chai Consulting to inspect the wines.

Downey, a Californian consultant who has advised the FBI and the US Department of Justice in high-profile wine fraud cases, headed to Taipei for the inspection.

Wood Chen, the brother of renowned entrepreneur Pierre Chen, has approximately 50,000 bottles in his collection. Around 20,000 of them were stored in Taiwan.

Downey examined the list and selected the 1,500 wines that she deemed most likely to be counterfeits.

She and six members of her team spent six days examining wine labels and cork quality, and their findings were recorded on the blockchain.

Downey ultimately determined that 130 of the wines were ‘definitively counterfeit’. She also identified 15 ‘problematic’ bottles.

After crunching the numbers, she estimates that 1% to 2% of the wines in Wood Chen’s collection are counterfeit.

Downey described that as an ‘exceptionally low’ counterfeit rate, adding that it is ‘one of the lowest rates observed in over two decades of inspecting collections for auction houses’.

Based on the typical counterfeit rates in the fine wine market, she was expecting 8-10% of the wines to be counterfeit.

Downey said: ‘Collectors with extensive fine and rare wine collections, especially those purchasing from secondary or grey markets, very likely have counterfeits.

‘Unfortunately, today even trusted supply chains are affected. And with the recent advanced, professionally produced counterfeits, even careful, reputable merchants are being deceived.

‘Thus, discovering such a small number of counterfeits among 1,500 very high-risk bottles is an extraordinarily low finding. Wood Chen is an exceptional collector with an impressive collection.’

Suspicions over Wood Chen’s collection arose when the country’s elites recently gathered at a party to enjoy wines from different vintages, plots and wineries in Burgundy last year. The wines apparently looked and tasted almost identical, which set alarm bells ringing.

Retailer Top 100 Wine reportedly agreed to reimburse clients that purchased the wines. Huang Huihong, who runs Top 100 Wine, allegedly revealed that the wines were sourced from Wood Chen.

The billionaire collector defended his cellar when confronted by Taiwanese reporters, saying that ‘you cannot conclude that all the wines are fake from one tasting session’.

Downey backed his claims and called the accusations against him ‘baseless’. She believes he has been ‘victimised’.

Wood Chen attended her company’s two-day wine fraud workshop in Hong Kong back in 2017, and they have been in regular contact ever since.

Downey called him ‘one of the most careful and thoughtful collectors in the world’ and said he has her ‘utmost respect’.

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Peking duck: what’s the authentic way to enjoy it?

As one of the best-known Chinese dishes, Peking duck was once an imperial cuisine dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644).

Roasted duck, with its crispy, golden-brown skin and rich fat, is the heart and soul of this iconic dish. It is commonly served with wafer-thin pancakes, shredded cucumber and green onions. For condiments, hoisin sauce and, indeed, sugar.

If you are enjoying Peking duck in an authentic Chinese restaurant, the chef will skillfully slice the piping hot duck in front of you – giving you ample time for photos – and place the well-browned skins and juicy meat, sometimes separately (and arranged meticulously) in a single layer on a plate.

The traditional way is to dip the golden, fatty skin in sugar and enjoy the sweet and crunchy texture on its own first. Once happy with that, take a few slices of the skin, meat and vegetables (but not too much), add a dab of hoisin sauce, wrap them up with the pancake, and now – take a generous bite.

The succulent flavours of the juicy duck, the sweet and umami-rich sauce, and the freshness from the greens are gift-wrapped in a thin layer of dough – a satisfying mouthful guaranteed.

Is Pinot Noir the only answer for pairing?

If you ask a wine professional what to pair with Peking duck, Pinot Noir is almost always the default answer – for its delicate fruit, fine tannins, and medium body.

Indeed, if we were pairing wines with roasted duck alone, the task would be relatively straightforward. A Burgundian Pinot Noir, a peppery Syrah, a rosé Champagne or an oaked Chardonnay, all with fresh acidity to balance the richness and cut through the grease, would work beautifully.

Also read: Non-vintage rosé Champagne – Panel tasting results

However, with Peking duck, the equation changes. If you were to set aside the hoisin sauce and sugar, these classic choices are still perfectly valid. But once the condiments come into play, a more nuanced approach is needed.

‘Despite its popularity, I don’t believe in pairing Pinot Noir with Peking duck,’ says Jennifer Docherty MW, the first ethnically Chinese and Mandarin speaking MW.

The Hong Kong-based expert added that Pinot Noir is quite linear and thus doesn’t necessarily hold up to the greasy and rich mouthfeel.

Spätlese Riesling, instead, is Docherty’s top choice. ‘Nice acidity with more residual sugar should go perfectly with the duck and the sauce.’

In the realm of red wines, Docherty suggests a ripe Clare Valley Shiraz or a ‘nicely balanced’ Crozes-Hermitage Syrah – fine tannins and non-assertive acidity are key.

How about Chinese wines?

A sweet, juicy Chinese Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, or Malbec (avoiding the more robust, oaky, and tannic options) from sun-baked wine regions such as Ningxia and Xinjiang could pair nicely with the plummy hoisin sauce.

Marselan is a rather topical option if it’s on the wine list – the French crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache is considered by many to be the next ‘signature’ grape of Chinese wines. Again, opt for the less oaky, more fruity bottles.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try a bottle of Chinese icewine – especially those from Huanren in Liaoning province, Northeast China.

Produced in considerable quantities but rarely exported, these precious nectars tend to have a complex, rich flavour profile and brilliant elegance. When properly chilled, they’ll melt the greasiness and elevate the entire experience.

*Read more about Chinese wines in Decanter’s 2024 China supplement.

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Picture this: a swirl of 2005 Bordeaux in your glass, the soothing lull of ocean waves as your soundtrack, a soft sea breeze brushing your skin, and a sky alight with brilliant hues of orange and pink. The Maldives transforms wine appreciation into an extraordinary sensory journey, far beyond its famed turquoise waters.

A growing number of luxury resorts have elevated their offerings, creating immersive experiences for everyone from novices who appreciate a thoughtfully curated wine selection to seasoned enthusiasts seeking a relaxing vacation far from vineyards and cellar tours.

These islands, renowned for their idyllic beauty, now cater to wine aficionados with some of the most distinguished programs in the world. Whether you’re just beginning to explore wine or are a connoisseur in search of rare vintages, the Maldives delivers a spectrum of opportunities to indulge your passion. Resorts have designed wine programs that include everything from approachable, sustainable selections for easy enjoyment to expansive cellars housing rare labels from Bordeaux, Burgundy and beyond. Guests can enjoy casual pairings by the beach, private sommelier-led tastings or extravagant dinners with expertly chosen wine flights.

For those newer to wine, the focus on variety and internationality elevates the island experience. Many resorts prioritise accessibility, offering extensive by-the-glass menus and food-pairing discoveries that demystify wine’s complexities. For experts, the Maldives offers the chance to discover memorable bottles in unparalleled settings, such as underground cellars, overwater restaurants or secluded beach set-ups. Beyond the glass, these resorts embrace innovation, with wine-themed encounters like wine gazing under the stars and winemaker dinners to more unique beverage offerings like garden-to-glass cocktail creations and fine rum and sake selections.

The Maldives’ wine culture has blossomed into a cornerstone of its luxury offerings, blending world-class expertise with the barefoot relaxation of island life. Below, we highlight a selection of the best resorts for wine lovers, picked for their location, superior hospitality, accommodation and wine experiences, which cater to enthusiasts at every stage of their journey.

JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa

Shaviyani Atoll, Maldives

Paradise found in the Shaviyani Atoll, JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa seamlessly blends notable wine experiences, culinary excellence and a world-class rum collection to create an unforgettable escape. With 60 expansive beach and overwater villas, each featuring private pools and personalised ‘Thakuru’ butler service, the resort caters to couples, families and wine enthusiasts alike.

The wine program is a standout, anchored by a cellar boasting over 1,600 bottles, including iconic Bordeaux first growths like 2005 Chateau Latour or Mouton Rothschild to Italy’s greats like Tignanello and Biondi-Santi. During peak periods, patrons can indulge in daily tastings, winemaker dinners or curated wine-pairing menus, available in the Wine Room. For casual sips, the resort offers 12 wines by the glass daily per couple, ensuring an approachable yet elevated immersion into wine.

Complementing the wine offering is the resort’s rum bar ‘Rum Baan’, showcasing an impressive collection of 98 rums. Guests can savour these neat or in expertly crafted cocktails, or partake in the interactive Garden to Glass cocktail making activity, selecting fresh herbs from the JW Garden to elevate their creations.

Dining is a journey in itself, with five restaurants offering diverse culinary explorations. Highlights include the traditional Japanese specialties and mouth-watering grills at Hashi & Shio, Thai cuisine in the not-to-be-missed treetop restaurant Kaashi, the traditional Malafaaiy beach dinner celebrating local flavours, personalised dining under the stars and floating breakfast from your private pool, complete with Devaux Champagne.

For families, the Little Griffins Kids’ Club is a resort staple with long opening hours and countless activities for little ones, while Pool 18, an adult-only infinity pool, and Spa by JW offer the sanctuaries one would expect of a remote, luxury getaway.

With its world-class wine cellar, rum collection and inspired dining, JW Marriott Maldives Resort & Spa offers refined indulgence in a breathtaking island setting.

How to get there

The resort is a scenic 55-minute seaplane transfer from Malé International Airport, providing stunning aerial views of the Maldives’ turquoise waters. Expect to be warmly greeted with the sounds of the Boduberu drum, a Maldivian-crafted necklace, cooling towels and drink.

Velaa Private Island

Noonu Atoll, Maldives

Velaa Private Island stands out as a beacon of indulgence and sophistication in the Maldives. Conceived by Czech entrepreneur Jiri Smejc as a personal passion project, this exclusive retreat is as much a sanctuary of privacy as it is a celebration of world-class hospitality.

Tucked away in the pristine Noonu Atoll, Velaa comprises 47 meticulously designed villas, including overwater residences and the ultra-secluded Romantic Pool Residence accessible only by boat. With a guest-to-staff ratio of 1:8, every detail is curated to exceed expectations.

The wine program at Velaa is among the most distinguished in the Maldives, boasting a cellar with over 1,500 labels, including rare vintages from Bordeaux and Burgundy and cult favourites from California. Overseen by the resort’s team of expert sommeliers, the program includes personalised wine tastings, food and wine pairing experiences and access to exclusive vintages seldom found outside private collections. Likening to a James Bond-esque setting, a resort highlight is Velaa’s ‘Snow Cellar,’ an underground cellar maintaining perfect conditions for the island’s unique collection.

Dining at Velaa is equally exceptional. The resort’s signature restaurant, Aragu, redefines fine dining with its focus on contemporary European cuisine fused with Asian influences. Every dish is crafted to harmonise with Velaa’s wine offering, creating a symphony of flavours.

Beyond its culinary excellence, Velaa offers a host of bespoke activities, from golf on the Maldives’ only private island course to deep-sea diving in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of the surrounding waters. The serene Velaa Spa, featuring treatments by My Blend by Clarins, offers an idyllic retreat for relaxation and rejuvenation.

How to get there

Fly into Velana International Airport in Malé, Maldives, followed by a 45-minute seaplane transfer to the resort. Transfers can be arranged directly through the resort.

The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort

Baa Atoll, Maldives

Situated in the Maldives’ first UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort offers a tranquil retreat that combines holistic wellness with a refined wine experience. With 69 luxurious beach and overwater villas, each featuring private pools and sweeping ocean views, this resort is a hideaway for wine lovers and wellness enthusiasts alike.

The resort’s wine program reflects its dedication to sustainability and quality, featuring a curated selection of organic and sustainable wines. Expect to find familiar super-premium labels like Louis Roederer and Prunotto alongside enticing island finds like Italy’s award-winning Cantina Terlano whites and Germany’s Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Riesling. Guests can partake in unique ‘wine gazing’ experiences in an intimate private cellar, perfect for exclusive dining with a personalised sommelier-led tasting menu. For sake lovers, don’t miss the chance to dine at The Pearl, the resort’s overwater Japanese restaurant, with generous sake pairings which elevate the culinary journey.

Complimenting its memorable food and beverage programme, The Westin focuses on wellness, offering visitors access to its stunning overwater Heavenly Spa, state-of-the-art gym, varied fitness programs from sunrise yoga and tennis to beach runs, in-room juicers for fresh orange juice (or a mimosa with wine fridges in each room) and its proprietary Heavenly Bed, designed to promote sleep and restoration. Guests can also immerse themselves in the vibrant underwater world of the Baa Atoll, renowned for its colourful coral reefs and one of the world’s largest concentrations of manta rays.

For travellers seeking an inspired blend of fine wine, sustainable luxury and rejuvenation, The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort delivers an unforgettable experience, leaving a lasting impression long after your visit.

How to get there

The resort is a 35-minute seaplane journey from Malé International Airport, offering views of the Maldives’ idyllic islands. Visitors are welcomed with traditional music and a fresh welcome drink.

Constance Moofushi Maldives

South Ari Atoll

Part of the prestigious Constance Hotels & Resorts collection, Constance Moofushi Maldives blends barefoot luxury with exceptional hospitality in the heart of the Indian Ocean. Set on a private island in the South Ari Atoll, this all-inclusive resort is a haven for couples, honeymooners and discerning travellers seeking an unparalleled tropical escape.

The resort’s 110 villas, split between beach and water accommodations, are thoughtfully designed to complement the atoll’s natural beauty. From crystal-clear lagoons to powdery white sands, every aspect of Moofushi invites travellers to immerse themselves in its tranquil surroundings. 

Constance Moofushi is celebrated for its innovative wine program. With over 200 wine labels meticulously curated from renowned regions worldwide, the offering is both comprehensive and approachable. The resort’s wine cellar, overseen by expert sommeliers, elevates guests’ journies through tastings, pairings and a deep dive into the world of fine wines. The team’s commitment to excellence has earned Moofushi accolades in international wine circles, including recognition on Star Wine List.

Dining at Moofushi is an adventure in itself, with a focus on marrying global flavours with local ingredients. The al fresco Jing Restaurant, perched over water, offers an exquisite pairing menu, where each dish is matched with wines that elevate every bite.

Beyond wine, guests can indulge in an array of experiences, from world-class diving in the South Ari Atoll’s marine-rich waters to spa treatments inspired by natural healing traditions. The resort’s ‘True by Nature’ philosophy is evident in every detail, ensuring a stay that is as authentic as it is indulgent.

How to get there

Fly into Velana International Airport in Malé, Maldives, followed by a 30-minute seaplane transfer to the island. Seaplane transfers can be arranged directly through the resort.

The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort

Dhaalu Atoll, Maldives

Nestled on a pristine island in the Dhaalu Atoll, The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort is an oasis of luxury, offering a retreat from the world. Its 77 exclusive beach and overwater villas feature elegant, island-inspired design with personal butler service, each offering private pools and panoramic ocean views. Whether it’s a romantic escape or a multigenerational retreat, the resort combines refined living with unforgettable moments.

The standout feature for wine enthusiasts is Decanter, the resort’s underground wine cellar. Housing over 7,000 bottles from 650 labels spanning 23 countries, this gold-toned enclave offers one of the Maldives’ most diverse and prestigious collections. Highlights include 1795 Portuguese Madeira and 2014 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Guests can savour these rare finds during private wine pairing dinners or curated tastings, where the executive chef and head sommelier craft unforgettable food and wine encounters.

In addition, the resort boasts The Whale Bar, known for its Champagne sabering ritual.

With seven restaurants and two bars, personalised wellness programs and immersive activities like coral reef restoration and dolphin cruises, The St. Regis Maldives offers a perfect blend of luxury and world-class wine experiences.

How to get there

Accessible via a scenic 45-minute seaplane transfer from Malé International Airport.

From vineyard to atoll: Behind the scenes wine logistics and training

How do world-class wine experiences thrive on some of the planet’s most secluded islands? In the Maldives, wine logistics is a feat of precision, showcasing the dedication behind its luxury resort offerings. Fine wines are sourced from global hubs like Dubai and Singapore, stored under optimal conditions and shipped to Malé, the capital. From there, they are meticulously transported to resorts via seaplanes, dhonis (traditional Maldivian boats) or speedboats, ensuring minimal exposure to the region’s tropical heat and humidity. Once on-site, temperature-controlled cellars safeguard their delicate nature, so guests enjoy wines at their finest, no matter how remote the destination.

Equally impressive is the focus on wine education and staff training. Many resorts invest in globally recognised programs like WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust), offering certifications and hands-on training tailored to their teams. Resorts such as The St. Regis Maldives and Anantara Kihavah host on-site workshops led by sommeliers and distributors, alongside virtual courses to broaden expertise. Regular tastings and cultural sensitivity training help staff cater to diverse guest preferences, while advanced qualifications pave the way for career growth. This commitment ensures a seamless, refined wine experience that aligns with the Maldives’ reputation for unrivaled hospitality.

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Two of the headline lots featuring The Macallan whisky failed to sell in Bonhams’ online auction in Hong Kong, with Japanese whiskies instead tempting buyers.

Neither The Red Collection nor The Reach found new homes during the sale, which began on 15 November and ended on St Andrew’s Day, the national holiday commemorating Scotland’s patron saint, on 30 November.

The Red Collection featured 40, 50, 60, 71, 74, 77 and 78-year-old whiskies, and marked the first time that the seven-bottle set had gone on sale through Bonhams.

The collection carried a pre-sale estimate of between HK$5,000,000 (£503,000) and HK$7,500,000 (£755,000).

The Reach, Macallan’s second-oldest release, was distilled in 1940 and bottled when it was 81 years old.

The three hands that form its stand – which was created by Scottish sculptor Saskia Robinson – represent current master whisky maker Kirsteen Campbell, former Macallan chairman Allan Shiach, and distillery workers from the 1940s.

Its pre-sale estimate stood at between HK$1,300,000 (£131,000) and HK$1,800,000 (£181,000).

Mark Littler, an independent whisky broker and consultant, said: ‘Sadly I’m not surprised these lots didn’t sell.

‘When The Red Collection launched in 2020, the market was strong, but the near impossibility of acquiring key age statements like the 60 year old made completing a full set challenging, leading to waning interest.

‘Subsequent re-releases of age statements, such as the 40 year old, have contributed to the perception of the series as open ended, reducing its appeal to collectors.’

He added: ‘The Reach debuted at the height of the market in 2022 but has since seen prices fall dramatically – from nearly £400,000 early in 2023 to £130,000 by year-end.

‘Much of the earlier value growth in modern whisky – post 2015 – was driven by speculative buying.

‘Following the market correction, collectors now focus on truly rare bottles.

‘While this presents excellent opportunities for informed buyers, many still lack the confidence to navigate the current landscape.’

Other Macallan lots did find buyers, with a Lalique 60 year old selling for HK$450,000 (£45,300), a Lalique 57 year old fetching HK$375,000 (£37,800), and Lalique 55 year old also going under the hammer for HK$375,000 (£37,800).

A bottle of 48-year-old Johnnie Walker Masters of Flavour blended Scotch whisky also changed hands for HK$150,000 (£15,100).

The sale marked the opening of Bonhams’ Asia head office. While the two star Macallan lots floundered, Japanese whiskies proved popular during the online Hong Kong auction.

The Hibiki 40 Year Old, the oldest blended whisky made by spirits giant Suntory, sold for HK$425,000 (£42,800), towards the upper end of its HK$340,000 (£34,200) to HK$500,000 (£50,300) valuation.

The blend drew on whiskies from each of Suntory’s Japanese distilleries – Chita, Hakushu, and Yamazaki.

Eighteen lots featuring Hanyu’s playing card series – which the auction house described as ‘one of Japan’s most coveted whisky series’ – also went under the hammer.

A spokeswoman for Bonhams told Decanter: ‘The top two Macallan lots were not sold; however, we saw notable results for Japanese whiskies in this auction, including the Hibiki 40 Year Old, which sold for HK$425,000.

‘Additionally, all 18 bottles of the Hanyu Ichiro cards offered were sold, with a combined price above estimate.

‘In particular, Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt – King of Diamonds – first edition sold for HK$525,000, and Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt – Ace of Spades – first edition sold for HK$325,000, both exceeding their high estimates.’

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ProWine Shanghai, a leading event for the wine and spirits industry in mainland China, took place from 12 to 14 November at the Shanghai New International Expo Center (SNIEC). Attracting 20,860 trade visitors, including importers, distributors, and HoReCa professionals, the event served as a dynamic platform for showcasing excellence in the global wine industry.

Decanter took part with a display of over 30 award-winning wines from the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), including hosting an exclusive masterclass highlighting the remarkable diversity of Chinese wine regions and styles.

At the Decanter stand, attendees explored more than 20 awarded wines from 9 countries and 15 regions, with 80% of the featured wines receiving an impressive 95 points or higher.

The line-up showcased standout wines from renowned export markets like Australia and Chile, featuring highlights such as the Platinum-winning House of Arras Grand Vintage 2015 from Tasmania, Australia and the Best in Show Santa Carolina Herencia Carmenère 2020 from Los Lingues, Colchagua, Chile.

Expanding beyond these established regions, Decanter also introduced attendees to exceptional wines less commonly seen in China. Among these was the Platinum-winning Domaine Histoire D’Enfer L’Enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir 2019 from Valais, Switzerland, capturing the attention of attendees for its elegance and unique provenance.

Following the publication of the first China supplement in Decanter‘s October issue, Decanter hosted an in-depth masterclass led by Professor Li Demei, DWWA judge and one of China’s foremost wine experts.

The masterclass introduced the DWWA scoring system, discussed the current state of Chinese winemaking and featured a guided tasting of 12 DWWA 2024 medal-winning wines from five major Chinese wine regions. The wines showcased a range of styles, highlighting the diversity and potential of Chinese viticulture, including:

• Devo Winery, MV02 Brut Nature, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia NV
  Silver, 91 points
• Silk Road Vineyards, Harvest Riesling, Yili, Xinjiang 2023
  Bronze, 89 points
• Silver Heights Vineyard, Reserve Chardonnay, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
  Gold,95 points
• Tiansai Vineyards, T20 Chardonnay, Yanqi, Xinjiang 2021
  Silver, 90 points
• Xige Estate, Jade Dove Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2020
  Silver, 90 points
• Helan Qingxue Vineyard, Jia Bei Lan Baby Feet Marselan, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2019
  Bronze, 88 points
• Chateau Copower Jade, Fei Tswei Reserve Syrah, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
  Silver, 92 points
• Grace Vineyard, Deep Blue, Cross-Regional Blend 2020
  Silver, 90 points
• Lansai Winery, Xiao Moli Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2020
  Bronze, 86 points
• Chateau Changyu Tinlot, Yantai, Shandong 2016
  Gold, 96 points
• Changyu Golden Icewine Valley, Golden Diamond Icewine Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning 2021
  Silver, 92 points
• Sanhe, Cailonglin Jinding Icewine Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning 2021
  Gold, 95 points

Search all DWWA 2024 results

See below for the DWWA 2024 awarded wines showcased on Decanter’s stand at ProWine Shanghai 2024.

Sparkling

• Perleo, Brut Zero, Vino Spumante di Qualità, Italy 2016
  Gold, 95 points
• House of Arras, Grand Vintage, Tasmania, Australia 2015
  Platinum, 97 points
• Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve Brut, Dundee Hills, Oregon, United States NV
  Gold, 96 points

White

• Domaine Perraud, Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, France 2022
  Platinum, 97 points
• San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyards Chardonnay, Limarí Valley, Chile 2022
  Gold, 95 points

Red

• Domaine De Colonat, Les Grenèriers, Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais, France 2023
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Domaine De Colonat, Les Charmes, Morgon, Beaujolais, France 2023
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Domaine Histoire D’Enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir, Salquenen, Valais, Switzerland 2019
  Platinum, 97 points
• Herència Altés, La Pilosa, Terra Alta, Spain 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Añón, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2020
  Gold, 96 points
• Bodegas Olarra, Reciente, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2019
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas Frontaura, Aponte Plus Tempranillo, Toro, Spain 2018
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Celler Pasanau, Finca La Planeta, Priorat, Spain 2020
  Gold, 96 points
• Tura Estate Winery, Mountain Peak, NA, Judean Hills, Israel 2018
  Gold, 95 points (DWWA 2023)
• Ernie Els, Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Santa Carolina, Herencia Carmenère, Los Lingues, Colchagua, Chile 2020
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Marie Maria, Novel Tannat, Madiran, Southwest France, France 2020
  Gold, 95 points
• Marie Maria, Greviere, Madiran, Southwest France, France 2020
  Silver, 93 points
• Plaimont, Château Arricau-Bordes, Madiran, Southwest France, France 2019
  Silver, 90 points
• Plaimont, Reserve Des Tuguets Tannat-Cabernet Sauvignon, Madiran, Southwest France, France 2019
  Bronze, 86 points

Search all DWWA 2024 results

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This November Decanter hosted a highly-anticipated Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) tasting event in partnership with Winevision. Held at its stylish headquarters in Gangnam-gu, Seoul, the gathering attracted around 120 attendees, with trade professionals making up 48% of the audience.

Participants had the opportunity to sample 70 exceptional wines from 11 countries, all awarded top medals at the 2024 competition. Moonsong Bang, DWWA judge, co-owner and lead educator of Winevision, said, ‘Many of the Winevision alumni who attended [the event] are regulars, with many of them looking forward to this Decanter tasting all year.’

South Korea continues to emerge as a significant wine market in Asia, with France maintaining its position as the leading source of wine imports.

This interest in French wines was reflected during the event. Bang said, ‘This year in particular, most of the wines were Gold medal winners or higher, and the styles were diverse. People were happy because they could taste French wines from various regions.’

Limited production, fortified wines were among the highlights, drawing considerable attention from attendees. Notable standouts included the Platinum medal-winning Quinta Da Devesa, 50 Year Old White Port, Portugal NV and Bacalhôa, Superior 10 Anos, Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal, Setúbal, Portugal 2007.

The tasting event featured 26 wines that achieved scores of 97 points, earning Platinum or Best in Show medals. Additionally, 29 wines were awarded Gold (95–96 points), complemented by 10 Silver and five Bronze medal winners. This impressive showcase exemplified the quality and prestige associated with DWWA.

See below for the DWWA 2024 awarded wines showcased in Seoul.

Australia

• Chaffey Bros., Evangeline Syrah, Eden Valley, South Australia 2021
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Sidewood, Owen’s Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 202
  Platinum, 97 points
• Penny’s Hill, Edwards Road Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia 202
  Gold, 95 points
• Penny’s Hill, Single Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2023
  Gold, 95 points
• Tahbilk, Museum Release Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes (Goulburn), Victoria 2017
  Gold, 95 points

Austria

• Weingut Nastl, Ried Käferberg Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich 202
  Silver, 92 points
• Weingut Nastl, Ried Liss Gigant Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich 2021
  Silver, 91 points

Chile

• Santa Carolina, Herencia Carmenère, Los Lingues, Colchagua 2020
  Best in Show, 97 points
• J.Bouchon, Granito Semillon, Maule 2022
  Gold, 96 points
• Leyda, Lot 21 Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, San Antonio 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyards Chardonnay, Limarí Valley 2022
  Gold, 95 points

France

• Château De Fuissé, Le Clos Monopole, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru, Burgundy 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Château Pierre-Bise, Savennières-Roche aux Moines, Loire 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Domaine De Colonat, Les Charmes, Morgon, Beaujolais 2023
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Domaine De Colonat, Les Grenèriers, Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais 2023
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Maison Jaffelin, Rully, Burgundy 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Bastide De La Ciselette, Bandol, Provence 2023
  Platinum, 97 points
• Domaine Des Petits Quarts, Chenin, Bonnezeaux, Loire 2023
  Platinum, 97 points
• Palmer & Co., Grands Terroirs Brut, Champagne 2015
  Platinum, 97 points
• Philippe Gonet, Ter Blanc Extra Brut, Champagne NV
  Platinum, 97 points
• Château Claud-Bellevue, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2020
  Gold, 95 points
• Chateau Fourcas Hosten, Blanc Biologique, Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Château Mongravey, Margaux, Bordeaux 2019
  Gold, 95 points
• Domaine Hurst, Muscat, Grand Cru Brand, Alsace 2020
  Gold, 95 points
• Fresne Ducret, Arquémie N°6 Pinot Noir Brut Nature Premier Cru, Champagne NV
  Gold, 95 points
• Maison Pierre Sparr, Réserve Brut, Crémant d’Alsace, Alsace NV
  Gold, 95 points
• Petit Sebastien, Château Candeley Les 5 C, Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Chateau Reynier, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux 2020
  Silver, 93 points
• Bastide De La Ciselette, Lou Pigna, Bandol, Provence 2023
  Silver, 91 points
• Vignobles Legault, Croix De Haut-Bernat, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux 2019
  Silver, 91 points
• Bastide De La Ciselette, Lou Pigna, Bandol, Provence 2022
  Silver, 90 points
• Château Côte Montpezat, Cuvée Compostelle, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2020
  Silver, 90 points
• Château Maine Gazin, Petit Verdot, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux 2021
  Bronze, 89 points
• Chateau Maine Gazin, Prestige, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2020
  Bronze, 89 points
• Bastide De La Ciselette, IGP Var, Provence 2023
  Bronze, 87 points

Germany

• Weingut Korrell, Von Den Ersten Lagen, Nahe 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Weingut Korrell, Kirschheck Riesling, Nahe 2022
  Platinum, 97 points

Italy

• Cantina Andriano, Juvelo Passito Gewürztraminer, Alto Adige / Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Primo Grande Cuvée, Alto Adige Terlano, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 2021
  Platinum, 97 points
• Tenute Nicosia, Monte Gorna Vecchie Viti Riserva, Etna, Sicily 2017
  Gold, 96 points
• Cà Dei Maghi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, Veneto 2016
  Gold, 95 points
• Tenute Navarra, Maribu, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Tenute Nicosia, Vulkà, Etna, Sicily 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Cà Dei Maghi, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2019
  Silver, 90 points
• Villa Cosmiana, Duca Amerigo, Toscana, Tuscany 2019
  Silver, 90 points
• Villa Cosmiana, Fattoressa Maddalena, Toscana, Tuscany 2022
  Bronze, 89 points

New Zealand

• McArthur Ridge, Southern Tor Pinot Noir, Alexandra Basin, Central Otago 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Chateau Waimarama, Emigao Cabernet Sauvignon, Havelock North, Hawke’s Bay 2016
  Gold, 96 points

Portugal

• Krohn, Vintage, Port 2017
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Bacalhôa, Superior 10 Anos, Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal, Setúbal 2007
  Platinum, 97 points
• Quinta Da Devesa, 50 Year Old, White, Port NV
  Platinum, 97 points

Spain

• Bodegas Frontaura, Aponte Plus Tempranillo, Toro 2018
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Valduero, Blanco, Reserva, Ribera del Duero 2016
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Alejandro Fernandez, Tinto Pesquera Albillo Mayor, Ribera del Duero 2022
  Platinum, 97 points
• Bodega Hacienda López De Haro, Classica Gran Reserva, Gran Reserva, Rioja 2012
  Platinum, 97 points
• Hijos De Alberto Gutierrez, De Alberto Dorado, Rueda NV
  Platinum, 97 points
• Celler Pasanau, Finca La Planeta, Priorat 2020
  Gold, 96 points
• Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Añón, Reserva, Rioja 2020
  Gold, 96 points
• Bodegas Olarra, Reciente, Gran Reserva, Rioja 2019
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas Ondarre, Gran Reserva, Rioja 2019
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas Ondarre, Reserva, Rioja 2020
  Gold, 95 points
• Herència Altés, La Pilosa, Terra Alta 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Mas Doix, Doix Costers De Vinyes Velles, Priorat 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Viñedos & Bodegas Alto Buen Grado, La Cendra Garnacha, Cebreros 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Cooperativa De Viver, La Perdición, Not Applicable 2022
  Silver, 90 points
• Celler Josep Vicens, Ma Iaia Cinta Homenatge Macabeu, Terra Alta 2021
  Bronze, 89 points

Switzerland

• Domaine Histoire D’Enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir, Salquenen, Valais 2019
  Platinum, 97 points

United States

• Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve Brut, Dundee Hills, Oregon NV
  Gold, 96 points
• Grgich Hills, Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California 2021
  Gold, 96 points
• Grgich Hills, Paradise Block Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville, California 2021
  Gold, 95 points

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The legacy and the road ahead

Saskia de Rothschild began the masterclass by taking the audience back over 150 years, to when the Rothschild family first started making wine at Château Lafite, the Pauillac first growth, in 1868.

‘These are vineyards nurtured by a family that has been living there forever. It’s a home for me and my father (Baron Eric de Rothschild). And wine is all about family, sharing and transcending generations’, said the sixth generation of the Rothschild family to lead Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite (DBR Lafite).

In addition to Lafite, the group has expanded over time to add more jewels to its crown – in 1962, Baron Philippe de Rothschild acquired Château Duhart-Milon, a fourth growth in Pauillac. Baron Eric de Rothschild, in turn, acquired Château Rieussec in Sauternes in 1984 and Château L’Évangile in Pomerol in 1990.

‘My father always said that two of the greatest things he’s done in his life are marrying my mum and buying L’Évangile,’ said Saskia.

Notes and scores for the masterclass wines below

Inspired by the ever-growing interest in fine wine in China, DBR Lafite was an early operator in the country. They decided to build a winery – later named Domaine de Long Dai – there in 2008 as part of its global presence, which also includes operations in Chile and Argentina.

The most recent Lafite outpost, acquired under Saskia’s watch, was Domaine William Fèvre in Chablis, in a move to balance the group’s presence in northern France, she said.

The Lafite philosophy

Château Lafite, as one of the five 1855 1er Grand Cru Classés, is known to have the ‘most delicate’ identity, and can be difficult to taste at a young age.

On this point, Saskia explained the winemaking philosophy of the Rothschild family; ‘We don’t follow the trends to make very opulent wines. We always try to make wines for the long run.’

‘We are very slow. Every decision we make, we need 10 years to realise (whether) this is the right decision or the wrong one.’

A strong R&D team provides crucial support in making those decisions while the group seeks to operate ‘in the interest of the planet and the community’.

All the DBR Lafite estates, domestic and overseas, obtained the B Corp label (awarded to companies verified by B Lab to meet high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability). Domaine William Fèvre is set to be included as the label renews, a testament to the company’s overall commitment.

While her team works on science and data, ‘human observation is still the most important,’ Saskia said, pointing at an ancient map of the Lafite terroir, which demonstrates local growers’ accurate understanding of the Pauillac soils through observation more than a century ago.

Even if, one day, AI plays a part in the production process, ‘every decision is still made by our hearts and our minds’, she stressed.

Blending, the crucial process of forging Lafite’s widely respected identity, is done in a collective manner. ‘It’s never one person or one ego who decides what makes the wine. The ego of Lafite is bigger than all of our egos.’

In the face of climate change, Saskia regarded Cabernet Sauvignon, among the four classic Bordeaux varieties (the other three varieties are Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot) planted in the 112 hectares of organically-farmed Lafite terroir in Pauillac, as the best bet against a warming globe due to its ability to retain balance and resist disease.

As part of this battle, Lafite is also experimenting with restoring its historical landscape, uprooting vines in areas that were once orchards and ponds decades ago to plant trees and hedges instead.

Domaine de Long Dai — the status quo

Lafite’s signature circular cellar, built in 1987 by Baron Eric de Rothschild, was ‘one of the first cellars to use architecture to create a scenic view’ while improving efficiency in managing barrels, explained Saskia.

The circular cellar, symbolising harmony and stability, was also introduced by Maria-Beatrice Caracciolo di Forino, Saskia’s artist mother when designing the interiors of Lafite’s China estate. At Domaine de Long Dai, however, the columns are painted red, a colour associated with prosperity and good fortune in Chinese culture.

‘My father always says it’s the first 100 years (of a wine estate) that’s difficult,’ said Saskia, adding that the family is at the first page of another long story – one set in the Shandong Peninsula on the eastern coast of China.

Drawing its name from an ancient, engraved jade artefact used in agricultural rituals (‘Long 瓏’) and Mount Tai (‘Dai 岱’), Domaine de Long Dai was launched in 2008, with the first vines planted in 2011. The first commercial vintage – the 2017, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Marselan – was released in 2019.

‘The idea of Long Dai is never to make a Bordeaux in China. It was to find a land where we believe we could make a great Chinese wine,’ explained Saskia.

Read the Decanter coverage in 2019 at the launch of Domaine Long Dai’s first release

Finding the right spot

And the decision to settle in Shandong was derived from DBR Lafite’s commitment to the long-term.

To endure the harsh winter, growers in most wine regions of north China such as Ningxia and Xinjiang have to bury their vines in autumn and dig them out in spring. Repeated vine burying is likely to shorten the life span of grape vines, explained co-host CH’NG Poh Tiong, also long-standing Regional Chair for Asia at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Therefore, to find a location in China where vineyards can last decades and beyond, the Lafite team researched the whole country and chose the Shandong peninsula, where vine burying isn’t necessary thanks to its proximity (20km) to the moderating Yellow Sea, explained Saskia.

The Qiu Shan Valley, to be specific, is where Lafite planted its 38ha vineyards across 62 plots.

The appellation, now home to nine villages and seven wineries, features cold but not overly harsh winters, short, hot summers, and favourable weather during the critical ripening season.

Its granitic bedrock soils are combined with terraced vineyards carefully carved out by Lafite-trained local growers based on nuanced terroir. These precisely defined terraces – now an astonishing 547 of them — enable the estate to make wines of elegance and complexity.

The precise viticulture carried out at Long Dai by a long-standing team, mostly former orchard farmers from the Mu Lan Gou village, was ‘very impressive,’ recalled Saskia when speaking about her first visit to the estate.

Vineyards before prestige

‘Obviously, they like hard work,’ commented CH’NG Poh Tiong, who visited the estate in 2019. ‘An average vineyard owner would say, can we flatten the terraces so it’s easy to work. But you (the Rothschild family) decided not to disturb the terrain, keep them as they are, and work around it. What’s always impressed me about the family and its mantra (philosophy) is that Lafite is always about vineyards, not brand prestige.’

The initial results from the Chinese estate are ‘spicier and more opulent’ wines than Lafite, said Saskia, adding that the sometimes racy vein combined with an austere finish is already interesting for food pairing – especially Shandong seafood.

Now the estate’s key plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Marselan – the French cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache which is hailed as China’s potential poster grape, added CH’NG Poh Tiong. Recently the estate is experimenting with white grapes such as Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Petit Menseng.

There are also plots of Merlot and Syrah – currently mainly used for Hu Yue, the second wine.

Saskia introduced the technical team on-site, led by Charles Treutenaere (who speaks fluent Mandarin and has lived in China for many years) as general manager, France-trained Peng Zhang as technical director, and Chen Liang as cellar master. Olivier Trégoat, also technical director of the group’s Château L’Évangile, Château Paradis-Casseuil, Rieussec and Domaine d’Aussières, provides technical supervision for the project.

Though now focusing on the Chinese market, Long Dai is set to become more accessible internationally as production increases, she noted.

The tasting

The eight wines tasted at the Singapore masterclass include four from Domaine de Long Dai and four from Château Lafite Rothschild.

Domaine de Long Dai – wines tasted

Domaine de Long Dai, Long Dai, Qiu Shan Valley, Shandong, China 2020

Domaine de Long Dai, Long Dai, Qiu Shan Valley, Shandong, China 2021

Domaine de Long Dai, Hu Yue, Qiu Shan Valley, Shandong, China 2021

Domaine de Long Dai, Long Dai, Qiu Shan Valley, Shandong, China 2018 (Magnum)

‘Like in Pauillac and the other regions (where we work), we’d like our wines to be different every vintage,’ said Saskia.

And the maritime Shandong doesn’t disappoint when it comes to freshness and vintage variations, which is also reflected in the blend.

In the 2021, which was deemed an ideal vintage for Marselan, the grape makes up 31% of the blend, significantly higher than the usual 20% mark.

‘Marselan always has a floral, violet aspect to it,’ said CH’NG Poh Tiong, adding that the character of each parent (Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache) shows differently depending on the winemaker.

Marselan brings spice and some roundness, but if added in excess, ‘it can overpower the Cabernet Sauvignon, which provides the direction of the wine,’ explained Saskia.

While ‘freshness and structure’ are the defining characteristics of the cooler 2020 vintage, according to CH’NG Poh Tiong, the drier 2021 has spiciness and pleasing peppery notes coming through from Cabernet Franc, said Saskia.

Domaine de Long Dai sources its oak barrels from Lafite’s own cooper, with a similar toasting level to Château Rieussec in Sauternes, making sure that it ‘never overpowers the wines’ she added.

2018 was a ‘benchmark’, warm vintage for Shandong. The six-year-old Long Dai 2018, served in magnum, offered a glimpse of how the wines may evolve with time: spiced and complex, with a velvety texture; great balance, and a gentle power driving through. Saskia expects the 2021 vintage to follow a similar ageing trajectory to that of the 2018.

Hu Yue, the estate’s second wine, uses fruit from younger vines to achieve a fresher, more approachable style with less oak expression. The 2021 vintage includes 15% Syrah, featuring a hint of savoury ‘tapenade’ (olive paste) to this juicy and plush wine, perfect for food pairing.

Château Lafite Rothschild – wines tasted

Château Lafite Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 2018 (Magnum)

Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2018 (Magnum)

Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux France 2008 (Magnum)

Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 1988 (Magnum)

At the 150th anniversary of the Rothschild family’s arrival at Lafite, the 2018 vintage began with a rainy spring, but from June 13, the weather turned very warm and dry. Saskia recalled it as ‘a spectacular vintage that started as a terrible child.’

The grand vin, with just 8.5% Merlot in the blend, has a modern style that ‘tells the story of a warmer vintage,’ reaching 13.5% alcohol – one of Lafite’s highest ever – while maintaining youthful freshness, thanks to a terroir capable of ‘tempering the extremes’.

The Carruades de Lafite 2018, on the other hand, includes Merlot coming from the estate’s premium sites deemed too ripe and ‘seductive’ for the grand vin. Saskia and CH’NG Poh Tiong both praised the ‘definition of the tannins’, as well as the roundness, juiciness and elegance in the 2018.

To commemorate the beginning of its China project, the 2008 vintage of Lafite’s grand vin features a small Chinese character ‘八’ (eight) – a number symbolising fortune and wealth in China.

Saskia described the vintage as a ‘late bloomer,’ with cedar and a charming hint of ‘greenness,’ including aromas of ivy. CH’NG Poh Tiong also noted the ‘hints of mint’ as well as its lively freshness.

The masterclass also presented wine lovers a rare opportunity to taste the magnum edition of Château Lafite Rothschild 1988.

‘1988, 1989 and 1990 are three great vintages at the end of the 1980s,’ which Saskia described as an ‘era of classic Lafite’.

The 1988 saw one of the highest percentages of Merlot (28%) ever blended in the grand vin.

As she put it; ‘We always say that at a party, Lafite may not be the first person you notice, but it will likely be the one you remember at the end of the night.’

And does it last? With 36 years under its belt, the 1988 is in ‘superb’ condition, said CH’NG Poh Tiong, highlighting the ‘persistent mint, sandalwood and leather’ notes.

‘Lafite is not defined by chunky concentration. The power of Lafite is persistence and intensity – just like Mozart’s music. Melodious, almost feminine – and always with charm and power. The soft power is not measured by muscles but by persistence.’

Now, the final question from the audience: Will Long Dai ever become like Lafite?

Probably not – and it doesn’t have to.

‘Will it grow and get better? I’m sure of it,’ said Saskia. ‘We believe in vines getting old – that’s the reason we went there (Shandong). For now, the vines are young, 10 to 15 years old, at best. But the wine will only get better.’

Lafite and Long Dai masterclass – eight wines tasted

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Catherine Yen, a wine educator based in Hong Kong, is a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Catherine Yen

Catherine Yen is a WSET diploma holder and won the McNie Tasting Trophy in 2013. Also a WSET wine educator, Catherine is qualified to teach up to Level 3. Catherine is a qualified wine expert in Japan and is a member of the Japan Sommelier Association.

Catherine is a Vinitaly International Academy Ambassador for Italian wines. Previously a Decanter Asia Wine Awards, Catherine joined the DWWA judging panel in 2024.

See more judges for the 2025 DWWA

Decanter’s flagship Fine Wine Encounter captivated Singapore’s wine aficionados with an impressive one-day event.

Drawing over 550 guests and 54 esteemed producers from 13 countries, attendees explored an extraordinary array of wines during the Grand Tasting and a series of exclusive masterclasses. These included highlights such as Clos de Vougeot from Burgundy, Pauillac’s iconic Château Lafite Rothschild and Decanter’s first whisky masterclass, featuring Japan’s Nikka Whisky.

The Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) Winners’ Showcase stood out, presenting 45 wines awarded at least 95 points, all with Gold, Platinum or Best in Show accolades. This selection was among the most diverse yet, allowing guests to start with less travelled UK sparkling wines, continue through an impressive range of vintage Cavas, grower Champagnes, whites, rosés and reds, and conclude with a limited VORS 30 Years Sherry.

Attendees sampled some of the Top 50 wines of the 2024 competition, such as the 97-point Lowestoft Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022 from Tasmania, Spain’s Aponte Plus Tempranillo 2018, Italy’s Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2015, and Spain’s Bodegas Tradición 30 Years Amontillado.

Also notable were 13 Platinum medal winners, all scoring 97 points, including Domaine Louis Moreau’s Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru 2021 and Domaine Perraud’s Viré-Clessé 2022, representing some of the competition’s best white Burgundies.

This event not only marked Decanter’s Singapore debut but also its return to Asia after five years, following a successful Fine Wine Encounter in Shanghai.

Explore below the full list of DWWA 2024 award-winning wines featured at the Winners’ Table in Singapore, and find more event highlights here.

Sparkling

• Gusbourne, Boot Hill Blanc de Blancs Brut, Kent, England 2018
  Gold, 95 points
• Artelium, Curators Cuvée, West Sussex, England 2018
  Gold, 95 points
• Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve Brut, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA NV
  Gold, 96 points
• Castell d´Or, Imperial Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Cava, Spain 2018
  Gold, 95 points
• Vins Familia Ferrer, Can Sala Brut Nature, Cava, Spain 2013
  Gold, 96 points
• Rare Champagne, Brut, Champagne, France 2013
  Platinum, 97 points
• Saint-Réol, Elégance Brut Grand Cru, Champagne, France 2012
  Gold, 96 points

White

• Cave Mont Blanc, Morgex et la Salle, Valle d’Aosta, Italy 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Vigne Cappato, Ghjlà, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, Sardinia, Italy 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Félix Solís, Medusa Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2023
  Gold, 96 points
• Canava Chrissou Tselepos, Vieilles Vignes, Santorini, Aegean Islands, Greece 2021
  Platinum, 97 points
• Bantegnies, Château Haut Bertinerie, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Castello di Spessa, Santarosa, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2022
  Platinum, 97 points
• Eugenio Collavini, Broy, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Domaine Louis Moreau, Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2021
  Platinum, 97 points
• Domaine Perraud, Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, France 2022
  Platinum, 97 points
• Domaine Naturaliste, Artus Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Flametree, SRS Wallcliffe Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2022
  Gold, 96 points

Rosé

• Vinaria Purcari, 1827 Rose, Stefan Voda, Moldova 2023
  Gold, 95 points
• Hacienda López de Haro, Classica Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2012
  Platinum, 97 points

Red

• Lowestoft, Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir, Derwent Valley, Tasmania, Australia 2022
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Histoire d’Enfer, l’Enfer du Calcaire Pinot Noir, Salquenen, Valais, Switzerland 2019
  Platinum, 97 points
• Herència Altés, La Pilosa, Terra Alta, Spain 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodega Son Antem, Camins de Mallorca, Mallorca, The Islands, Spain 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Bodegas Frontaura, Aponte Plus Tempranillo, Toro, Spain 2018
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Pago del Cielo, Celeste Reserva, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2019
  Platinum, 97 points
• Bodegas Lan, Culmen Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2019
  Platinum, 97 points
• Château Rombeau, Le Botaniste Reserve Fig 4 Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Domaine des Peyre, Arte, Ventoux, Rhône, France 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Perinet, Vinya Pendents Carinyena, Priorat, Spain 2018
  Platinum, 97 points
• Vignobles Luc Schweitzer, Château Bourdieu N°1, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Château La Dominique, St-Émilion GCC, Bordeaux, France 2018
  Platinum, 97 points
• Château La Croix Lartigue, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France 2020
  Gold, 95 points
• Perelada, Finca Garbet, Empordà, Spain 2019
  Gold, 95 points
• Church Road, Grand Reserve Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2021
  Gold, 95 points
• Trivento, Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Viña del Nuevo Mundo, Las Niñas Ella Reserva Organic Carmenere, Apalta, Colchagua, Chile 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Kir-Yianni, Diaporos Xinomavro, Imathia, Macedonia, Greece 2019
  Gold, 95 points
• Josetta Saffirio, Perno, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2019
  Platinum, 97 points
• Ernie Els, Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2022
  Gold, 95 points
• Celler Pasanau, Finca La Planeta, Priorat, Spain 2020
  Gold, 96 points
• Cà Dei Maghi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, Veneto, Italy 2016
  Gold, 95 points
• Cesari, Bosan, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, Veneto, Italy 2015
  Best in Show, 97 points

Fortified

• Bodegas Tradición, 30 Years, Amontillado, Sherry, Spain NV
  Best in Show, 97 points
• Hijos de Alberto Gutierrez, De Alberto Dorado, Rueda, Spain NV
  Platinum, 97 points

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

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A single bottle of Château Latour 1865 sold for HK$812,500 (£80,500), including buyer’s premium, at the Christie’s Hong Kong auction on 30 October – well above its pre-sale high estimate of HK220,000.

Bottles of Bouchard Père & Fils Burgundy wines dating back to the 1860s also featured in the sale, which showcased rarities sourced direct from estates owned by Artémis Domaines.

Christie’s said all lots found buyers with total sales having reached HK$26m.

Napoleon III was emperor of France and the Eiffel Tower did not yet exist when grapes for Bordeaux’s well-regarded 1865 vintage were harvested. 

Christie’s said the bottle of Latour 1865 sold in Hong Kong was reconditioned in 1990, with a new label and capsule.  

It was joint-top lot at the auction alongside a five-litre jeroboam of the legendary Latour 1961, also sold for HK$812,500 (high estimate: HK$650,000).

Nineteenth century red and white Burgundy from historic producer and merchant house Bouchard & Père & Fils also went under the hammer in Hong Kong.

A bottle Bouchard Père & Fils’ Chambertin 1865 sold for HK$625,000 (high e: HK$300,000), and a bottle of the group’s Montrachet 1864 fetched HK$437,500 (HK$150,000). 

Artémis acquired Bouchard Père & Fils in 2022, after taking a controlling stake in a merger deal with the Henriot family’s wine business.

Frédéric Engerer, CEO of Artémis Domaines, said: ‘This sale shows that collectors attribute great importance to the provenance and storage conditions of the proposed lots, as well as the estates’ complete transparency when it comes to reconditioned bottles and the traceability features on each lot.’

‘This sale is further proof that old and rare wines, especially those from the great vintages of the nineteenth century, form a unique heritage.

‘Made from pre-phylloxera vines, these wines give rise to exceptional tasting experiences, though the number of bottles looked after with meticulous care in our cellars is slowly dwindling.’

Other highlights included Bordeaux and Burgundy wines from the celebrated 1945 vintage.

Three bottles of Bouchard Père & Fils, Musigny Grand Cru 1945 sold for HK$475,000, including buyer’s premium, more than double a pre-sale high estimate of HK$190,000. 

Three single-bottle lots of Latour 1945 each fetched HK$87,500 in the sale, which was held at Christie’s’ new headquarters in Asia Pacific, The Henderson.

Other Artémis Domaines’ wines in the sale included a nine-litre Salmanazar bottle of Eisele Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Napa Valley. It fetched HK$27,500 (high e: HK$24,000).

Christie’s said that one in four new buyers in the auction were millennials, highlighting interest from a younger generation of bidders.

Adam Bilbey, Christie’s global head of wine and spirits, said: ‘We are pleased to achieve a 100% sell-through rate and hammering well over the high [estimate]. This once again proves the importance of quality and provenance in the fine wine market.’

He added that strong interest from bidders worldwide also reflected the reputation of Artémis Domaines’ wines.

Prices on some blue-chip fine wines have fallen in the past couple of years, following a period of strong gains in some cases. Yet auction houses have repeatedly asserted that rarely seen wines with pristine provenance have continued to prove alluring to bidders.

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From the 2010 Shanghai World Expo and 2016 G20 Hangzhou Summit to the recent 2023 Hangzhou Asian Games, Afip wines are said to have been served on 55 occasions to domestic and international dignitaries, including former US President Barack Obama and former British Prime Minister David Cameron.

Completed in 2007, the Afip estate was built next to the Miyun Reservoir. Besides the grand hillside château, which includes a museum and an underground cellar, the surrounding Afip Town is built to resemble a French village. Thanks to its proximity to Beijing, it is a prime tourist destination, open for conferences, dining and accommodation throughout the year.

Afip cultivates 73 hectares of 20-year-old vines, encompassing 15 plots mainly on south-facing slopes and gentle hills. Calcareous gravel soils ensure good drainage, while the continental monsoon climate brings wide diurnal temperature variations, which are beneficial for maintaining elegance during the hot summers.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the key varieties for the estate and French oak plays an important role across its entire range. At the 2021 Decanter World Wine Awards, for example, judges praised the Platinum- winning A8 Chardonnay for its ‘eloquent and elegant’ character and skilful use of oak.

Chateau Changyu, Afip A8 Chardonnay, Miyun, Beijing 2019

The 2018 vintage won 2021 DWWA Platinum – 97pts

CH’NG Poh Tiong: Aromas of vanilla and toasty oak, reinforced by lemon-lime fruit on the medium-bodied palate; fresh and vibrant. Grape: Chardonnay 100%. Alc: 12.5%

Trade contact: +86 010 89089999

Read more about Changyu: China’s century-old wine legend

Read more about the wines of China:

China: Around the regions

Savour the diversity of Chinese wines

Bonhams has set an estimate of €700,000 to €1,200,000 (£586,000 to £1,004,000) for the Hanyu Ichiro Full Card Series.

The collection comprises 54 bottles, each of which has been signed by renowned master distiller Ichiro Akuto.

Amayès Aouli, global head of wine and spirits at Bonhams, said: ‘This is an incredible opportunity to acquire the most collectible of Japanese whiskies, with excellent provenance.

‘For each bottle to be personally signed by the master distiller, Ichiro Akuto, makes this set truly unique.’

Isouji Akuto, a 19th generation descendant of a long line of sake brewers, founded Hanyu distillery in 1941. His goal was to produce high-quality single malts, inspired by the finest Scotch whisky.

Hanyu distillery ceased production in 2000, but not before his grandson, Ichiro Akuto, secured approximately 400 casks.

Ichiro Akuto, who inherited his grandfather’s passion for whisky, used the remaining spirits to create the Full Card Series.

The series comprises 54 bottles, which are designed to represent the 54 cards in a full deck (including two jokers).

Each ‘card’ was bottled from a single cask of whisky laid down between 1985 and 2000. The single malts were released between 2005 and 2014, but they are now extremely rare, and it is unusual for one collector to hold an entire ‘deck’.

According to Bonhams, only a few sets of the full series exist. In 2015, Bonhams became the first auction house to sell a complete Hanyu Full Card Series. It sold for HK$3,797,500 (£377,000), which was a world record for Japanese whisky.

Bonhams sold the Full Card Series again in 2019, fetching HK$7,192,000 (£713,000). The auction house then set a new world record in 2020, when it sold the Hanyu Card Series for HK$11,890,600 (£1,180,000).

Now Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in Paris has secured another Hanyu Full Card Series, which was painstakingly assembled by a private collector.

Clément Gaillard, a spirits specialist at Bonhams, said: ‘With only a finite number produced, it is one of the most sought-after whisky collections across the globe. To own this series is to own an extraordinary piece of whisky history.

The action will begin online at Bonhams on 12 November, and it will conclude on 29 November.

Ichiro Akuto now runs the esteemed Chichibu Distillery in Saitama Prefecture, and he is regarded as a driving force behind Japanese whisky’s renaissance.

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History was made on Saturday, 26 October, as the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) debuted in Singapore, offering an unforgettable day of wine and whisky tasting. Fifty-four renowned producers from 13 countries joined us to showcase their finest wines, giving our passionate attendees the chance to taste over 200 exceptional bottles. Guests also enjoyed three remarkable masterclasses, including our first ever whisky session featuring Japan’s esteemed Nikka distillery.

Explore the highlights from this extraordinary day below.

A heartfelt thank you to all the producers and guests who made our Singapore debut so memorable, to Colossal Productions for capturing these special moments, and to our official DFWE sponsor, Riedel.

The Grand Tasting is officially open! More than 550 guests made their way to the Singapore’s luxury Shangri-La Hotel.

Guests had the opportunity to taste wines from top producers from around the world at the all-day Grand Tasting.

The Decanter World Wine Award Winners Table is ready! Featuring 45 top scoring wines from the 2024 competition.

François Labet, Proprietor of Château de la Tour (left) and Charles Curtis MW (right), carefully taste wines from Clos de Vougeot, setting the tone for the day’s first masterclass.

The pouring team prepares tasting glasses.

Engaged and enthralled – masterclass guests fully immersed in the experience, enjoying each taste and insight shared.

A lasting memory – a guest takes a candid shot of fellow attendees, capturing the excitement of the masterclass.

Meet & greet – a thrilled guest poses with Charles Curtis MW – a sought-after moment as fans eagerly lined up to meet him.

Shared joy- happy attendees share a laugh, capturing the lively spirit of the event.

Spoilt for choice! A delighted guest explores the range at the Precision wine stand, sharing a smile as she decides on her next pour.

From London to NYC and now Singapore, the DWWA table continues to be a favourite stop for enthusiasts, proving its appeal in every city.

At the Marchesi Di Barolo stand, guests explore the diversity of Barolo wines as the exhibitor enthusiastically shares the stories behind each bottle.

Second masterclass of the day- Saskia de Rothschild of Château Lafite offered an exclusive tasting of Lafite wines alongside vintages from their Chinese venture, Long Dai.

A full house for Château Lafite Rothschild – eager attendees gathered to experience this legendary masterclass.

Refined focus – a masterclass guest holds their glass to the light, examining the wine’s colour and clarity with thoughtful attention.

Learning in action – a guest takes detailed notes, capturing the depth of knowledge shared during the masterclass.

Guests enjoyed the rare 2016 Château Pichon Baron in a double magnum – a vintage that scored a perfect 100 points in the Decanter Panel tasting.

We managed to pull Edouard Moueix, grandson of the legendary Jean-Pierre Moueix, aside for a quick interview.

Capturing memories – a guest snaps a photo of a favourite bottle, to revisit long after the event is over.

A historic first – our very first whisky masterclass with Nikka Whisky, led by Diego Araud, Marketing Director at La Maison du Whisky (right) and co-host CH’NG Poh Tiong (left), offered an unforgettable journey through Japanese whisky.

The whisky line-up featured an exclusive release – an extra special surprise that wrapped up our final masterclass of the day.

A special thanks to CH’NG Poh Tiong who was a co-host for two masterclasses Château Lafite and Nikka Whisky.

Five of China’s top estates, including Canaan Winery and Domaine Franco Chinois from Hebei, showcased their award-winning wines

Our gift to you - all our attendees who purchased a Grand Tasting ticket, received a complimentary Riedel wine glass as a keepsake.

Cheers! Thank you all for making our first event unforgettable. Next stop: London, Saturday 16 November—see you there!

Decanter staged a triumphant entry on to the Singapore wine scene on Saturday, when it hosted its first ever Fine Wine Encounter in the country – and the first to be held in Asia since Decanter’s Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) in Shanghai five years ago.

More than 550 guests made their way to Singapore’s luxury Shangri-La Hotel, where 54 wineries from 13 countries were waiting to pour their wines in the splendid setting of the Tower Ballroom. Wines were shown off at their best in pristine glassware from Riedel, kind sponsors of the event.

Grand Tasting

The all-day tasting offered guests the chance to enjoy wines from top estates from around the world, poured and presented by the names behind the labels. A walk around the Ballroom provided an exciting tour of classic Old World regions in France, Spain, Italy, Croatia and Switzerland; as well as the New World strongholds of Argentina, Chile, Australia, New Zealand, California, Oregon and South Africa.

China also fielded an impressive contingent of five leading estates from the regions of Shandong, Yunnan, Ningxia and Hebei, offering a rare insight into the dynamic Chinese wine scene. All of the Chinese estates present have won medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) and exhibited styles as diverse as a Petit Manseng dry white (Longting Vineyard), Marselan and Tempranillo reds (Canaan), Chardonnays, and Malbec (Xige), alongside the Bordeaux red blends that have made the country famous, from estates such as LVMH-owned Ao Yun, and Mystic Island.

Show-stopping large-format bottles were on display at tables around the room, including Pichon-Baron from Pauillac in Bordeaux, and Remírez de Ganuza in Rioja, which both poured older vintages from double magnum – Pichon’s 2016 vintage and Remirez de Ganuza’s 2012 Reserva. But an even bigger draw were the winery principals who had flown in especially for the event, and enjoyed pouring their wine personally for visitors.

These included Philippe Chandon-Moët, co-owner of Bordeaux’s Château de Ferrand; Edouard Moueix from Bordeaux’s Jean-Pierre Moueix; Marielle Cazaux, managing director and winemaker at Château La Conseillante in Pomerol; José Ramón Urtasun, owner and winemaker at Rioja’s Remírez de Ganuza; and Giovanni Frascolla of Tuscany’s Tua Rita estate. From the New World, Travis and Elisabeth Wray flew in to present wines from their House of Cards estate in Australia’s Margaret River; Eddie McDougall, The Flying Winemaker, poured his wines from regions across Australia; and Helen McCarthy, Hardy’s first ever female chief winemaker, poured vintages of Eileen Hardy Chardonnay and Shiraz, Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon and Heritage Reserve wines.

Meanwhile, a selection of 45 award-winning wines from this year’s DWWA were poured at a dedicated DWWA table. With all wines shown scoring 95 points or higher, this was a chance to taste an eclectic line-up spanning styles that ranged from English sparkling wines and top Brut Nature Cava, through whites from Valle d’Aosta, Friuli and Sardinia in Italy, rosé from Moldova and a Platinum-winning aged rosé Rioja, plus reds from Switzerland, Mallorca and northern Greece, as well as more classic regions. Two Spanish fortified wines – an Amontillado Sherry and a Verdejo from Rueda – rounded off the voyage of discovery.

In the foyer, DWWA Regional Chair for Asia Ch’ng Poh Tiong, who lives in Singapore, signed copies of his new book ‘A Primer on Pairing’, and chatted to guests. A fascinating source of knowledge on Chinese cuisine and ideal wine pairings, he includes in the book his pick of the world’s top 30 Chinese restaurants, a draw for any globe-trotting food and wine lover.

Masterclasses

In addition to the main tasting, guests could purchase tickets to a series of exclusive tutored sessions (individual, detailed masterclass reports to follow).

In the first masterclass of the day, Decanter’s Burgundy expert Charles Curtis MW took attendees through a dozen wines, in ‘Clos de Vougeot: An exploration of terroir’, focused on the famed Burgundy grand cru. He was joined in the class by co-host François Labet, owner of Château de la Tour, Clos de Vougeot; other wines poured included Domaine de la Vougeraie, Domaine Anne Gros, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair and Domaine Jean Grivot.

In the second, sellout masterclass, Saskia de Rothschild, executive chairwoman at Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite, presented a unique tasting which brought together the wines of first growth Château Lafite with wines from its Chinese venture Long Dai. Titled ‘East meets West: A Lafite story from Pauillac to Shandong’, the tasting provided the inside story on Lafite and its Chinese winemaking project, with four vintages of Long Dai poured alongside four wines from the Pauillac estate: vintages 2018, 2008 and 1988 of Lafite’s grand vin, poured from magnum; and the 2018 vintage of the second wine Carruades de Lafite, also poured from magnum.

The last masterclass of the day saw ‘Nikka Whisky celebrating 90 years of Japanese craftsmanship’. Decanter’s first ever whisky masterclass was presented by Diego Araud, marketing director for La Maison du Whisky Asia Pacific, and Ch’ng Poh Tiong. Guests enjoyed a range of single malts, a pure malt and a Coffey malt whisky, before Nikka’s flagship From the Barrel whisky, a blend of Coffey grain and malts from Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. The tasting concluded with a surprise pour, a commemorative whisky made in tiny quantities to mark the 90th anniversary.

Look out for a set of pictorial highlights from the event shortly – if you attended, keep an eye out for our photo gallery as you may be featured. Back in Europe, our next DFWE takes place at The Landmark London on 16 November, showcasing more top names from around the world. Or for those based in the USA, we host our next annual New York DFWE in June 2025. For more information, visit our Events page.

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Beneath the towering Himalayas, the realm of the Gods, a new wine country has been born.

On 21 October, Bhutan – ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’ – officially joins the global stage with the release of its first vintage.

This beautiful, secluded Buddist kingdom, graced by dramatic mountains, lush valleys, roaring rivers, shimmering lakes and an ancient yet ever-evolving culture, is now home to a pioneering wine venture.

Founded by American dreamers, Michael Juergens and Ann Cross, in partnership with the Bhutanese government, the Bhutan Wine Company aspires to capture the essence of the Thunder Dragon’s terroir.

Known for its commitment to Gross National Happiness (GNH) and its pristine environment, Bhutan might seem an unlikely candidate for wine production.

Yet, these very qualities have given rise to what could become one of the world’s most intriguing wine regions.

The genesis of this venture is a tale of serendipity and vision. Juergens, a business consultant and aspiring Master of Wine, and his wife Cross, a brand management expert with a WSET Diploma, first visited Bhutan in 2017.

Bottling Bhutan

What began as a bucket-list trip soon evolved into a pioneering enterprise.

‘I looked at it and said, this place has the potential to make some of the world’s greatest wines,’ Juergens recalls.

‘Everything that you eat [in Bhutan] is the most flavourful thing you’ve ever tasted. So I figured you could probably grow some interesting wine grapes.’

Captivated by Bhutan’s diverse microclimates and pure environment, Juergens drafted a proposal for the Bhutanese government, outlining how a wine industry could align with the country’s development goals, GNH policy, and status as the world’s only carbon-negative nation.

Recognising the potential for an entirely new, high-value, low-volume product that could showcase Bhutan to the world, while promoting sustainable agriculture, preserving cultural heritage, and generating income opportunities for rural communities – all key pillars of GNH – the response was enthusiastic.

By 2019, the first vines were in the ground. This merging of American entrepreneurialism with Bhutan’s adaptive cultural framework has given rise to a unique venture that respects local traditions while pushing viticultural boundaries.

Karma Choeda, chief operating officer of the Bhutan Wine Company, emphasises the cultural significance: ‘For the people and the country, it will be a matter of pride to say that we are able to grow grapes and produce wine in Bhutan.

‘Being a small country sandwiched between two giant nations [India and China], we have always placed great importance on our identity.

‘And to be able to capture and promote the essence and identity of Bhutan in a good bottle of wine will make the Bhutanese people very proud indeed.’

A mandala of microclimates

Bhutan, slightly smaller than Switzerland, offers a remarkable diversity of microclimates within its tropical lowlands, high-altitude valleys and abundant river and lake regions.

The venture has identified four distinct climate zones and two primary soil types – alluvial sand by the rivers and red clay on the hills.

Currently, about 80 hectares of vineyards span the country, cultivated across nine sites.

This diversity allows for an extraordinary range of grape varieties. ‘We’re going to have the Loire Valley equivalent here, doing Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, the Rhône equivalent there doing Syrah, Bordeaux over there doing Bordeaux varietals, and we’ve got Burgundy Pinot Noir,’ Juergens enthuses.

‘We’ve got the microclimates to do all of that. We’ve just got to figure out which is which.’

Unlike the French appellation system, however, there are no rules. With no prior history of viticulture, Bhutan is a vinous blank canvas.

Monkeys in the vineyard

High altitudes, with some vineyards reaching up to 2,700 metres, contribute to intense UV exposure and significant diurnal temperature variations.

Combined with Bhutan’s famously pure water and unpolluted air, viticultural conditions are optimal.

Pioneering an entirely new wine country is not without its unique challenges. Wildlife management tops the list, with monkeys, cobras and leopards posing threats in the vineyards.

‘We don’t have red blotch [a vineyard disease], but we have monkeys!’ Juergens exclaims, highlighting the need for innovative solutions like electric fences and anti-venom protocols.

Matt Brain, the company’s Californian winemaker and a professor of oenology, shares his perspective on the challenges: ‘Growing world-class grapes in the country with no prior experience will take some time.

‘Vineyard teams will need to learn best practices in a variety of environmental conditions. And we will need to continue to explore the suitability of different varieties in different soils, altitudes and weather patterns.’

A new harvest

Adapting to local agricultural practices has been another hurdle. Bhutanese farmers, accustomed to maximising yields for other crops, are gradually coming around to the counterintuitive practice of reducing yields to enhance wine quality.

The diverse terroir and long growing season – harvests span from June to October due to altitude differences – allow for experimentation.

With 16 varieties in the ground, early results have been promising across the board, with Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling showing particular promise.

Juergens describes the Pinot Noir as ‘the darkest you’ve ever seen, and at the same time the lightest, most ethereal you’ve ever tasted’.

Brain adds: ‘It is too early to say where our chosen varieties will excel best, but we are seeing different varieties beginning to show a great deal of promise at these early stages.’

As one might expect from a country without a single fast-food chain or traffic light, the aim is not for globalised ‘recipe’ wines.

Rather, the venture has set its sights on terroir-driven wines that reflect the unique characteristics of each microclimate and soil type.

As Bhutan pours its first wines, there’s a palpable sense of excitement and pride among its citizens.

The wines were presented first to the kingdom on 12 October, ahead of the global release on 21 October.

Building a wine culture

The project has been embraced as an opportunity to showcase Bhutanese culture and values to the world through the universal language of wine.

In the capital, Thimphu, a wine bar and tasting room has been established to foster a local wine culture, doubling as an educational hub.

The venue offers a rotating selection of international wines and the company’s Ser Chem range, featuring bottles adorned with Bhutan’s dragon symbol.

The name ‘Ser Chem’ refers to the traditional ritual of offering alcohol to the gods by dipping the left ring finger into the glass and flicking droplets into the air – the Bhutanese equivalent of ‘cheers’.

Bridging tradition and innovation, this Buddhist kingdom may well become the rising star in the world of wine.

The dragon awakes.

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Japanese whisky enthusiasts will recognise Nikka – one of Japan’s most respected and long-standing distilleries.

Founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, who was inspired by Scotch whisky, Nikka has spent 90 years perfecting its craft. At this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) in Singapore, Diego Araud, director of La Maison du Whisky, will lead a tasting of five unique Nikka expressions, showcasing the distillery’s innovation.

Here Ch’ng Poh Tiong catches up with Araud ahead of his DFWE appearance.

Japanese whisky has taken the world by storm in the last few years. Why has this occurred?

I think there are a few reasons Japanese whisky has completely exploded in the past 15 years. Actually, Japanese whisky is not something that just started 20 years ago although it has taken a good five years to be on everyone’s lips. Japanese whisky has been around for about 100 years. And that’s what we’re celebrating this year with the 90th anniversary of Nikka Whisky, going back through the history of this wonderful producer.

So, it’s actually a much older craft than what most people think. It’s true it has been a massive success in the past 10, 15, maybe 20 years. I think the reason is because overall whisky has been doing very, very well all over the world during that time. American whiskey is taking a little bit longer, but it’s exploded in the past few years as well. We see Irish whiskey coming back on the map. It’s been a really great time for the spirit.

As it started being a bit more international, we started seeing some whiskies making their way through competitions and winning awards. Those whiskies were really, really well made by people who care about quality that also has a certain subtlety. What they were looking for in the taste of whisky is the balance and, in the blending expertise, very fine expressions. Eventually the world just discovered something of super high quality that they’d never seen before. People were laughing maybe a couple of years ago, like, whisky is not meant to be made in Japan. It’s meant to be made in Scotland or in Ireland. And two years later, it’s like, well, have you tried Japanese whisky? It’s the best in the world. And of course, some very good marketing placement. Hibiki really had a breakthrough when featured in the movie Lost in Translation

When it comes to Nikka, there was this show in Japan talking about the life of Masataka Taketsuru. So Nikka exploded as well in Japan at the same time it was getting really hyped up outside Japan. So altogether a lot more consumption, a lot less stock. With globalisation, in the past 20 years, Japanese culture has attained a kind of cult status. In Singapore, it might not be as obvious as in other parts of the world, but in France, Japan was, and still is, very exotic.

What are the differences and similarities between Japanese and Scotch whisky?

I would say it’s very similar to Scotch whisky. Kind of follows exactly the same guidelines of the definition of Scotch. The raw ingredients are the same, the production is pretty much the same. So is the ageing. They abide by the same rules.

If you blind taste a Japanese whisky and a Scotch whisky, it’s very hard to tell the origin. It’s not exactly like wine and it’s not just Japanese and Scotch whisky. I think as long as you’re talking about the same style of whisky, such as a single malt, for example, it’s very hard to tell its origin. Except for a few expressions that might be typical of a producer. But otherwise it’s really hard to tell. So, in that sense, Japanese and Scotch whisky are made the same way, using the same ingredients. One of the men behind Japanese whisky being Masataka Taketsuru whom we will be talking about during the masterclass, he really brought his craft from Scotland. That’s where he learnt how to produce Scottish whisky.

What he knew was to produce a whisky that is quite similar to Scotch whisky. There are differences though.

The approach of Japanese people as a whole is very perfectionist, always looking for the best possible balance. At this stage when they learn about whisky, it was already in the modern time. There were scientists behind Masataka Taketsuru so that means they really had an understanding of what made whisky and how to make the best possible whisky.

Eventually they really perfected the craft, like finding the exact balance, finding the right degree of alcohol, and the right combination of flavours. Plus with their culinary culture, they have a very developed palate. They could go into the fine details of finding the expression that would be perfect for them. Taste, however, is always very subjective. That’s also the reason Suntory and Nikka went separate ways. Masataka Taketsuru wanted to remain very Scottish in style. Something a little bit stronger, a little bit heavier, oilier. And Tori-san wanted to make a whisky that was a bit lighter, a bit more floral, and a little bit easier for the Japanese palate. Altogether as a whole, Japanese whisky is well known for being very balanced, a bit lighter, a bit more subtle.

What discoveries will participants make at your masterclass of the six Nikka whiskies?

I hope they will gain a deeper understanding of Nikka’s history – that’s the main focus of our discussion. I also hope they will gain more insight into the broader world of whisky. I think for true connoisseurs, there will be a lot of subtlety that they will experience. But maybe for those more in the wine industry, who may think of the world of whisky as one big thing, they may discover it has so many little doors that can open to so many incredible stories – how raw materials, production methods and aging process, all have an impact on the final product. On top of talking about Nikka, we will be talking about whisky as a whole.

And then obviously, there will be a little surprise in this masterclass, which is something very exclusive that I would imagine no one has yet tried. It will be very, very valuable.

Buy final tickets for the Nikka Whisky masterclass

Watch: A Message from Diego Araud

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore

Date: Saturday 26 October 2024 from 11am to 5:30pm

Location: 22 Orange Grove Road 258350 Singapore

Price: Grand Tasting tickets SGD 165 | Masterclass tickets SGD 167 – SGD 600

All prices are subject to 9% government tax.

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Two of the most important attributes for a great whisky blender are patience and knowledge. So it’s little surprise that Ichiro Akuto – of Hanyu and Chichibu fame – is one of the driving forces of today’s Japanese whisky renaissance.

Akuto represents the 21st generation of his family to produce alcohol. His ancestors started brewing sake around 1625, before moving into whisky production in 1946. However that thread could easily have been severed in the year 2000.

By this time, Akuto had come to assist his father in running Hanyu; but too late. The distillery shut down in 2000 and was demolished four years later. Akuto was left with 400 unwanted casks of whisky and little else.

Taking a gamble

A stroke of marketing genius transformed his fortunes. The launch of the hugely successful Playing Card series of Hanyu releases in 2005 created a franchise that was to become a darling of the auction rooms in the years that followed.

Fast forward to 2008, and Akuto opened the tiny Chichibu Distillery. Surrounded by mountains, about 80km north-west of Tokyo, it was the first new whisky distillery to open in Japan for 35 years.

As the demise of Hanyu indicated, Japan’s great love of whisky had dimmed from its peak in the early 1980s to a nadir around 2007. It was a brave – some would say foolish – time to start up a new distillery.

‘What Ichiro did was to visit about 2,000 whisky bars in Japan, all by himself, over a period of about two years,’ explains Yumi Yoshikawa, Chichibu global brand ambassador. ‘He found so many people enjoying whisky even then – and they were not just drinking one whisky, but comparing three or four.’

Attention to detail

That research gave Akuto the confidence that his approach was the right one. He focused on small-scale production, with attention to the finest details of raw materials, distillation and maturation.

Soon Chichibu – and the adjacent releases of Akuto’s innovative, flavour-led blends – earned a cult reputation. Many of those blends were ‘world’ whiskies combining different origins. Their cult status was only reinforced by their scarcity.

A second, much larger (by Chichibu standards) distillery opened in 2019. It was capable of producing more than four times the amount of spirit. ‘Sometimes people are worried when they hear we have opened a second distillery,’ says Yoshikawa. ‘“Oh, you are making more volume, but less quality.” But we needed more characters in the warehouse.’

A highly promising cask sample from the second distillery – nothing has yet been commercially released – suggests that it will take the original Chichibu’s scented, fruit-forward distillate and add some structure and heft from the use of direct fire to heat the stills.

Innovation and creativity

The trademark Akuto approach to whisky-making combines a no-fear exploration of new ideas and techniques – think world blends and a wide array of cask types – with a truly artisanal style. That style encompasses local barley and floor malting.

Ichiro – he has something new in his head every year,’ says Yoshikawa. ‘Every whisky has different flavours, but we always want to show the character of the distillate.’

That ‘something new’ in Akuto’s head currently is a third distillery. The new grain distillery, called Tomakomai, is scheduled to open in Hokkaido in 2025. There’s already talk of a Coffey still, the use of locally grown maize and a production level that will dwarf the Chichibus.

It’s now been two decades since Hanyu was demolished. In that time Japanese whisky has gone from an ailing industry, just beginning to make its mark on the international awards scene, to one of the most sought-after whisky origins on the planet.

Yoshikawa recalls: ‘When Ichiro started, people said: “Not many people are enjoying whisky now. Why don’t you make wine or shochu?” But he kept going, and kept telling his story in Japan and around the world – and he opened up the new era of Japanese whisky. If Ichiro didn’t try, maybe things would be different.’

Top Chichibu whiskies to try

Chichibu Red Wine Cask 2023

A marriage of 36 casks, mostly ex-bourbon, finished in an eclectic mix of wine barrels. There’s Pinot Noir from Burgundy and New Zealand, Napa Cabernet and red wine/Muscat from Japan. Remarkably delicate and fragrant, floral at first, but soon notably fruit-forward, with redcurrant and wild strawberry to the fore. Excellent mouthfeel and grip, with a touch of yellow fruit from the spirit and a lifting prickle of menthol. An opulent whisky. Alcohol 50.5%

Chichibu The London Edition 2024

The seventh in a series of annual releases, with the accent on maturation in former bourbon barrels, plus a little red wine cask too. The distillate is on show, with flavours of peach and nectarine, undercut by sandalwood and a whisper of smoke. A rounded mid-palate is full of pâtisserie notes of rich cream and brioche, with a little light spice. Full of youthful appeal. Alc 50.5%

Ichiro’s Malt & Grain World Blended Whisky

A masterclass of the blender’s art, this globetrotter combines malt and grain whiskies from Japan, Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the US. Delicate notes of honeysuckle, creamy citrus and cereal on the nose, malted milk on the fruit-forward palate – apple, pear – then butterscotch from the grain and light brown sugar. Sweet, but never cloying. Alc 46.5%

Ichiro’s Malt Double Distilleries

Past meets present in this crowd-pleasing blend of spirits from Hanyu and Chichibu. A thread of scented fruit plays against perfumed aromas of pot-pourri and face powder, with smoke lurking at the back. As the power builds on the palate, the smoke asserts itself with great intensity, accompanied by green apple. Robust but balanced. Alc 46.5%

Ichiro’s Malt MWR Mizunara Wood Reserve

Another world whisky, this blended malt was finished in virgin Japanese mizunara oak for a year. Cream-accented apple and pear fruit leads into notes of baking spices and perfumed sandalwood. Punchy on the palate, with a hint of smoke in the background, this is a more linear whisky, given a firm, but never austere, structure by the mizunara. Alc 46.5%

Ichiro’s Malt Wine Wood Reserve

A blended ‘world whisky’ that combines Scottish spirit with Chichibu, finished in Bordeaux red wine casks. The vinous character is front-and-centre here, with spicy plum and black cherry fruit. The wood gives the palate great structure and not a little power. There’s a touch of woodsmoke, but the overall effect is sweetly appealing – and just a little jammy. Alc 46.5%

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Elias Maalouf was squishing grapes at his Rayak Winery and Distillery, a smaller vineyard with 12 hectares of cultivated land in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, on 23 September, when a bomb flew out of the sky and landed in front of his building. The blast blew out the roof of his laboratory and shattered many of the bottles of wine kept in a storeroom. It also damaged his and his parents’ houses. Passersby were killed and Maalouf’s nerves were shattered.

Hits from rockets and shrapnel have put large swathes of vines on the other side of the border out of bounds. Dalton Winery cultivated its Pinot Grigio grapes in the vineyards on the Israeli border with Lebanon but these were made inaccessible as a result of cross-border shooting. Another section of the Dalton vineyard was ravaged by a fire, caused by falling debris from an intercepted rocket, in April this year. The company has lost some 100,000 bottles of its 1.2 million annual production of bottles of wine.

‘We are living day by day, we never know what will happen next. We make sure that when we leave the vineyard for the evening the job is done and the tank is full because we don’t know what tomorrow will bring,’ said Alex Haruni, CEO of Dalton Winery in the Israeli Upper Galilee.

The pressure of war on all winemakers can be close to unbearable. ‘We never knew that winemaking was going to become a threat to our lives, a threat to our families, a threat to being who we are now,’ said Maalouf.

Many vineyards are uncomfortably close to the military action. Lebanese wineries are mostly situated in the Bekaa Valley where Israeli bombing has been intense. Israeli winemakers are located on the Lebanese border where Hezbollah rockets have been raining down for the last year. Either way, there is no escape for those whose sole interest is to make and sell wine.

Israel, with 40 million bottles annually, has the larger wine production than the Lebanese winemakers who produce eight to nine million but Lebanon has an estimated two billion bottle annual production of arak, the local spirit. Both sides are looking at a sharply lower sale, down by as much as a third, for 2024.

Persuading workers to go out to collect grapes while rockets are clattering around them presents challenges to both sides. ‘If someone is afraid of going out, we fully understand and will find him a job inside the winery,’ says Gal Yariv, CEO of the Pelter Winery, whose vineyards are in the Galilee and Golan, Israel’s two security hotspots.

Winemakers in the Bekaa Valley are sending out their employees later in the morning to pick the grapes than they would in normal times so they can see the road clearly where they are travelling. ‘They like to have light on the road. It makes our workers feel more secure,’ said George Sara, CEO of Château Ksara, Lebanon’s largest winery, making three million bottles a year.

Israeli employers are reducing the length of the days that their employees have to be exposed to risk. The workers used to go out to the fields between 8am and 5pm, but now they only work until midday or 1pm, according to Haruni, of Dalton Winery, which has vineyards on the Israeli side of both the Lebanese and Syrian borders. ‘We want to keep everyone as safe as possible. If rockets are falling people want to get back to their families and their kids. We want to keep them at ease as much as they can,’ he said. His biggest concern is bottling this year’s vintage as this requires a full day in the winery at any one time for it to be economically viable.

The company has three bomb shelters at the winery into which workers can retreat if there is a warning. But the travel to get to the winery through the forests in the Galilee can be scary, and Haruni says he travels with a helmet and a flak jacket in the back of his car. ‘These are absurd times,’ he said. Wineries are regarded as ‘open areas’ by the country’s military authority and rockets that are headed to land in such an area are not intercepted, he added.

War has left much of the indigenous Lebanese Obeidy grape withering on the vine as this ripens late and is picked at the end of the season, in October. Family-owned producer Château St Thomas’s Obeidy crop is planted in fields in the north of the Bekaa Valley, where bombing has been particularly intense. ‘The workers don’t want to go out to pick the Obeidy grape. If they are prepared to do so, they charge a lot which is understandable. The grapes are sitting there without being picked.’ said owner Nathalie Touma. ‘We feel great responsibility when we do send them out.’

The arak production at Domaine des Tourelles, another winery in the Bekaa, is also going to fall this year as a result of the war said Faouzi Issa, whose family are its owners. ‘You cannot go and harvest the grape right now. The missiles are everywhere in the region, especially where we harvest for the arak, next to Baalbek,’ he said.

Exports account for around half of Lebanon’s annual production and so long as the road from the Bekaa Valley to Beirut remains safe, Lebanese wineries hope to maintain reasonable business in 2024. Israeli exporters are not so sanguine. Although its ports are safe, a protest boycott from distributors across Europe following the outbreak of the Gaza war is hurting sales. ‘We are being supported by Jewish communities who are staying loyal to our produce,’ said Yariv.

The determination to get the grapes off the vine and bottled unifies both nationalities of winemakers. As Maalouf surveyed the wreckage of his shattered winery, he said, ‘No matter what bombs are thrown around, no matter what is happening, I promised myself I won’t give up. I have a family to support, and I will be squishing grapes, hopefully very soon. The decision to make wine is not just about not giving up. We need to make wine. It’s our livelihood.’

A unity around wine is perhaps the best hope for both warring parties. ‘We hope we can get through this quickly and resume our lives and spread the message of love through our bottles to the world,’ said Sara.

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Chief blender Shinji Fukuyo used whisky from the company’s Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita distilleries to create this exclusive blend.

Hibiki 40 Year Old is described as ‘the pinnacle of generations of learning and craftsmanship, and a unique and incredibly rare embodiment of the finest standards of Japanese mastery, making a statement of the spirit of innovation at The House of Suntory.’

Just 400 bottles of this limited-edition whisky will be released on a global basis, selling for $35,000 (£33,150) per bottle.

Suntory, which last year celebrated its 100th anniversary, bills Hibiki 40 Year Old as ‘a perfectly harmonious blend’ that delivers ‘a gorgeous taste with layers of unprecedented aroma and mellowness’.

The blend features whiskies aged in Mizunara, Spanish and American oak, which provides complexity, subtle sweetness and smoothness.

On the nose, Hibiki 40 is said to offer aromas of loquat, dry lemon peel and clove, while whisky lovers can look forward to acacia honey and dry fig on the palate, and an aromatic aftertaste.

Fukuyo said the whisky has ‘a sense of subduedness, like that of an old temple, and a wabi-sabi patina due to the long ageing process’.

He added: ‘I would like people to enjoy the pure aroma that has been sharpened over the years; the tranquillity of old temples and storehouses and the nostalgic warm feeling that accompanies them.’

Artist Eriko Horiki crafted the washi label on the Hibiki 40 Year Old box, which is made from 12 different types of Japanese wood and has 12 faces, representing the 12 months of the year.

The bottle is made from crystal glass and decorated with traditional Japanese maki-e, mother-of-pearl inlay, and gold lacquer designed to pay homage to Suntory’s heritage and tradition.

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Until this date, Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) has only taken place in London, New York, and Shanghai.

The event’s Singapore debut marks a significant milestone for the country, now recognised as an influential global wine hub.

As part of the inaugural DFWE Singapore, taking place on 26 October 2024, Decanter will host a Grand Tasting.

Decanter’s trust in our “Little Red Dot” is echoed by the excitement of 57 exhibitors from around the world, with their pedigree, provenance, terroir, expertise, history, award-winning wines set to be a delight to taste at the event.

DFWE Singapore will spoil guests for choice. The abundance includes some precious gems waiting to be discovered, including:

Kabola Winery Unica 2019

Having finally visited Croatia last July (a belated trip originally thwarted by the Covid pandemic), I was immensely impressed with that country’s indigenous Posip and Malvasia white wines. The latter is more well-known from neighbouring Italy but Croatian Malvazija also rocks. Istria’s Kabola Winery shines a light.

Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2015

Having visited Cloudy Bay twice – the first time about 10 years ago – the world’s most famous Sauvignon Blanc outside Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume always thrills and tantalises. Can’t wait to discover how its prestige Te Koko 2015 evolves nearly a decade later.

Terrazas de los Andes Parcel Los Cerezos 2017

Argentina has carved out a unique niche with Malbec even if the varietal had once been more associated with Bordeaux. The reason the South American region has been able to achieve this is by delivering world-class quality. Un-grafted and first planted almost a century ago in 1929, Parcel Los Cerezos is very rare indeed.

Vasse Felix Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

Vasse Felix’s most complex Bordeaux blend is aptly named for Tom Cullity, the man who established the winery in 1967. The vinous visionary who put Margaret River on the wine map was also a surgeon, performing the first cardiac catheterisation at the Royal Perth Hospital in the 1950s.

Scroll down for scores and tasting notes of these wines

Viñedos Familia Chadwick Seña 2017 (Magnum)

The New World can sometimes turn the old one on its head. Chile’s Chadwick family of Errazuriz fame does a one-up on France with their most sought-after wine Sena by recruiting five of Bordeaux’s permitted varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Seña is not just an accomplished red, it is a blending masterclass in a glass.

Ao Yun 2020

Moët-Hennessy, arguably the world’s number one wine and spirit powerhouse, is founder proprietor of Ao Yun in a mountainous, remote, Himalayan region of Yunnan in south-west China. Their winemaker hails from Saint-Emilion and the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot contains 6% Syrah in 2020.

Chateau Pichon Baron 2016

There is consensus – amongst Bordeaux aficionados, even other Bordeaux classified growths – that if two or three wines were to be promoted to First Growth, Pichon Baron would be in that circle. Already one of the greatest vintages in the last 50 years, the Pauillac Super Second Growth produced one of the very best 2016s of that exceptional harvest!

Tua Rita Redigaffi 2021

Tuscany is the spiritual home of Sangiovese. And arguably the best region for Bordeaux red varieties in the whole of Italy. Already impressive for Cabernet Sauvignon, Tuscany triumphs over all other New World regions producing world class Cabernet by being the most impressive terroir outside Pomerol producing exceptional pure Merlot.

Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza Remírez de Ganuza Reserva 2012 (Double Magnum)

First produced in 1992, Bodegas Remirez puts a new spin on Tempranillo by ageing the Spanish red in mostly new 225-litre Bordeaux barriques. The blend includes a dash, 5% each of the white Graciano and Viura grapes. Their 2012 Reserva will be poured from a double magnum! A die-die must-try at this year’s inaugural Singapore Encounter.

OVID Napa Valley 2021

Napa Valley is the Médoc of California. Nowhere outside France has more consistently fine Bordeaux red blends been produced than in Napa Valley. Below Napa’s established radar, for the moment anyway, is an outlier named OVID. Nestled at 410 metres on a secluded mountainous area, the iron-rich volcanic soils and abundant sunshine produce wines of commanding presence. 

Buy tickets

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore

Date: Saturday 26 October 2024 from 11am to 5:30pm

Location: 22 Orange Grove Road 258350 Singapore 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets SGD 165 | Masterclass tickets SGD 167 – SGD 600

All prices are subject to 9% government tax.

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Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, Nikka Whisky – and indeed the entire Japanese whisky category – owes its existence to one man: Masataka Taketsuru. The company’s founder was born in Takehara, Hiroshima, in 1894.

His family had owned a sake brewery since 1733 and he was destined to join the business before he encountered Western-style spirits, while studying fermentation techniques at Osaka Technical School. ‘I want to make this,’ his notes recorded. ‘Once I started thinking that way, I couldn’t resist temptation.’

Landing a job with spirits producer Settsu Shuzo in Osaka, in 1918, the final year of the First World War, he was sent to Scotland to learn about Scotch whisky. Taketsuru was the first person from Japan ever to do this; at the time it was an arduous journey, taking over 50 days by ship and rail.

Chemistry courses at Glasgow University were followed by short apprenticeships with distilleries including Longmorn in Elgin, Bo’ness – where he learned to distil grain whisky in a Coffey still – and Hazelburn in Campbeltown. The result was a series of notebooks, hand-written and with meticulous diagrams. These ‘Taketsuru Notes’ became Japan’s first manual for whisky production.

Buy tickets to the Nikka Whisky masterclass at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore 2024 

Japan’s first whisky

In the wake of the economic turmoil that followed the First World War, Settsu Shuzo abandoned its plans to produce whisky. But Shinjiro Torii of Kotobukiya (later renamed Suntory) had similar designs. In 1923 he hired Taketsuru to oversee the building of Yamazaki Distillery on the outskirts of Kyoto. As distillery manager Taketsuru produced the first Japanese whisky – Suntory Shirofuda – in 1929.

Taketsuru had returned to Japan with more than his notebooks however… In Glasgow he fell in love with local lass Rita Cowan. ‘A lady was staring at me with round, beautiful eyes. That was Rita,’ he noted in his diary. Later confessing: ‘It was love at first sight.’ The pair married in Glasgow in 1920.

Rita immediately immersed herself in Japanese culture, learning the language and also how to cook Japanese food. Importantly, she also supported Taketsuru in his dream of opening his own distillery, which happened in 1934. The couple had settled in Yoichi in Japan’s northern island, Hokkaido – chosen for its resemblance to Campbeltown, bordered by mountains and the sea.

Nikka is born

Initially making apple products as Dai Nippon Kaju – ‘Great Japanese Juice Company’ – Taketsuru was also busy designing the first pot still to be manufactured in Japan. It was installed at Yoichi Distillery in 1936 and Nikka Whisky was released in 1940. Nikka, short for Nippon Kaju, later became the company name.

Today Yoichi is distinctive for being one of the last distilleries in the world that still heats its stills with direct coal fire. This is said to impart a signature toastiness to the aromas of its malts. Yoichi was also selected as an ideal location because Taketsuru found peat nearby in the local Ishikari Plain. The company still owns a peat bog there, though these days malted, peated barley is imported from countries such as Australia and Germany to produce Nikka’s whiskies.

Following its initial release of Nikka Whisky, the Yoichi Distillery launched Nikka Black in 1956. This was followed by Super Nikka in 1962, created as a tribute to Rita, who died in 1961.

Miyagiko Distillery

Pursuing his dreams of whisky-making alone – and inspired by the regional characters of Scotch – Taketsuru founded a second distillery, Miyagiko, near Sendai on Japan’s main Honshu island in 1969. The more southerly location lent itself to the production of lighter, more elegant whiskies to complement the bold Yoichi malts.

Miyagiko became known for its two Coffey stills, originally imported directly from Glasgow in the 1960s. They allowed for continuous distillation, increasing Nikka’s production capacity. Nikka Coffey Grain was launched in 2012, followed by Nikka Coffey Malt in 2014 – the range also includes a Gin and Vodka, all with signature minimalist labelling.

Lasting legacy

Following the death of Taketsuru in 1979, Nikka continued to evolve with iconic releases in the 1980s including Nikka from the Barrel and single malts from Yoichi and Miyagiko. The company was bought by Asashi in 2001 and is now the second-largest whisky producer in Japan behind Suntory.

With his remarkable series of pioneering ‘firsts’ Taketsuru created the blueprint for Japanese whisky, paving the way for its global recognition today. Little wonder the founder of Nikka has been dubbed the ‘Father of Japanese whisky’.

Nikka whiskies: Seven to try

Nikka Coffey Grain

Produced in one of Nikka’s continuous Coffey stills, this grain whisky is a mix of 95% corn and 5% malted barley, matured in ex-bourbon casks. That bourbon character runs through the palate, which is sweet and fruity, with notes of toffee, candied peel, tropical fruit and zesty citrus. Alc 45%

Nikka Coffey Malt

It’s highly unusual to distil 100% malt in a continuous Coffey still, but this expression (previously only released in single casks) became so popular that Nikka added it to the core range in 2014. It’s easy to understand the appeal: toasty tropical aromas dance across the nose – roasted pineapple and bananas Foster. Mango, banana and crème brûlée join in on the palate, with a long finish of woody spices. Alc 45%

Nikka Days

Made for Highballs, this light and bright style is a blend of malt and grain spirits from the Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries. Approachable and fruity, it kicks off with fresh apple and citrus aromas before the palate expands into rounder orchard fruit flavours, toffee, vanilla, gentle spice and just a whisper of peat smoke. Try it as the distillery intended: in a refreshing Highball with soda and plenty of ice. Alc 40%

Nikka from the Barrel

In its signature rectangular bottle – based on the shape of an old peat shovel – Nikka from the Barrel embodies the Nikka philosophy, blending both single malt and grain spirits from Miyagikyo and Yoichi, aged in an array of different casks, including bourbon and Sherry. Deep, complex and very rich with notes of red apple, cinnamon, butterscotch and vanilla, overlaid with woody spice; add a dash of water to open it up. Alc 51.4%

Nikka Myagiko Single Malt

This expression from Nikka’s Myagiko distillery in Sendai is a blend of single malts from different years, meaning there’s no age statement on the label. Mostly matured in ex-Sherry casks, it has rich smoky, spicy, woody aromas, with notes of citrus fruit and banana. In the mouth it’s complex and layered, with hints of dried fruit, stone fruit, malty chocolate, ginger and salted nuts, that linger on the long, soft finish. Alc 45%

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt

Named in honour of Masataka Taketsuru, this blended malt is sourced from Yoichi and Miyagiko, with a higher percentage of the latter. It spends around 10 years maturing in a variety of casks, including ex-Sherry, which adds dried fruit aromas and rich creaminess to the palate. Caramel, delicate smoke, lots of ripe fruit and spices make a satisfying dram. Alc 43%

Nikka Yoichi Single Malt

A no-age-statement blend of single malts from different years. Elegant peat smokiness is combined with fruit notes – orange, lemon, melon, pear – spices and a hint of chocolate. Rich, smooth and harmonious, with some saltiness on the lingering smoky finish that’s emblematic of the Yoichi Distillery’s direct-coal-fired stills. Alc 45% 

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• How to taste Sake – A Decanter guide

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