No one is sure what to call it, but everyone’s favourite grape in Central Europe can be appetisingly fresh and fruity, or richer, layered and complex – either way, the best wines are utterly delicious.

Today, producers across several countries are showing that it’s both incredibly versatile and well worth another taste – even if it does hide its light under a bewildering array of names.

It grows as Graševina in Croatia; Grašac or Rizling Italijanski in Serbia; Olaszrizling in Hungary; Riesling Italian (often just Riesling) in Romania; Riesling Italico in Italy (mainly in Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy); Welschriesling in Austria; Laški Rizling or Grašica in Slovenia; Rizling Vlašský in Slovakia and Ryzlink Vlašský in Czechia.

It takes number one spot for vineyard area in Croatia, Slovenia and Serbia, but perhaps most surprisingly, it covers 3,000ha to 4,000ha in China, where it first arrived when an Austro-Hungarian consul was invited to be a winemaker in 1892 (its Chinese name 贵人香 means ‘noble fragrance’); there’s even some in Brazil.

No one is even sure where the grape originally comes from. One parent is a rare Italian grape called Coccalona Nera – the other remains unknown.

And some names either explicitly reference or imply an Italian connection – Olasz, Laski, Vlašský and Welsch all mean ‘Italian’ in their respective languages.*

So Italy may be the origin, although it wasn’t recorded there until the mid-1800s.

*Editor's note – Welsch/Welsh/Walloon/Vlach/Vlašský etc. are also cognate with the proto-Germanic 'Walhaz' meaning Roman/Romance-language speaker, later 'foreigner' or simply 'Italian'. Welschriesling's presence in the Illyrian border areas of the Roman Empire in contact with Germanic tribes may hint at a possible etymological origin.

A possible homeland

One twist in the unravelling of its origins comes from Serbia, where the grape (under the name Graschaz) appeared in an 1816 book called Soveršen Vinodelac (‘The Perfect Winemaker’) by Prokopije Bolić, the archimandrite, or head monk, of the Rakovac monastery on Fruška Gora mountain.

Even more important was the discovery of the world’s second-oldest grapevine herbarium in Sremski Karlovci grammar school in northern Serbia, and the only one with actual pressed grapes.

In 2017, researcher Dr Milica Rat uncovered some dusty, forgotten boxes with 75 samples of grapevine material, collected in around 1812-1824 on Fruška Gora – including a sample of Graschaz.

This gives Serbia current bragging rights as its most historic origin.

In many guises

The precise origin of the grape variety matters less than the fact that it has been widely adopted around the Danube basin.

It’s easy to grow and can be a generous yielder, which suited the previous, quantity-not-quality era, when it was often consumed daily from litre bottles and in spritzers (Hungarians in particular take spritzers seriously – always Olaszrizling).

But it’s now proving that it has much more to offer, culminating in a DWWA 2023 Best in Show award for Vinarija Vinčić’s Grašac 2020 from Serbia, an unoaked version from 50-year-old vines.

The names that mention ‘Riesling’ or ‘Rizling’ are confusing because the variety is unrelated to Rhine Riesling and doesn’t taste similar to it – typically with a softer, rounder texture, but also appetising freshness.

Young versions can be light and fruity, with bright acidity and notes of lemon, green apple, white flowers, sometimes green herbs, and a mineral, grapefruit pith finish.

Or, it can be profound and complex, with ripe apple, poached pear, lemon zest, pineapple, quince and sometimes honey and marzipan, especially from old vines and low yields.

At the same time, it can also suit sparkling wines (a handful in Central Europe and even in Brazil), as well as some stunning skin-contact wines and the occasional, delicious, botrytis sweet wine.

Like many great grapes, it’s also capable of reflecting terroir; a fact supported by a recent study that found different levels of certain aromatic compounds in grapes from different regions.

Sadly, it’s only slowly regaining consumer recognition, though a competition called GROW du Monde ('GR' from Graševina/Grašac, 'O' from Olaszrizling and 'W' from Welschriesling), founded by three friends from Croatia, Serbia and Hungary, aims to unify its identity and rebuild awareness.

Time for some GROW in your glass?

Gilby’s pick: Six white Welschriesling from across Europe

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Vienna is a city where centuries overlap seamlessly, its imperial elegance flowing into modern life. Palaces sit beside wine taverns, and music drifts as naturally through the streets as coffeehouse chatter.

On the famed Ringstrasse, Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna captures this spirit of continuity and change. Built by Theophil Edvard von Hansen for the 1873 World’s Fair, the palace remains an architectural showpiece. Today, its fresh incarnation as an Anantara hotel offers guests a portal into Vienna’s layered identity: old-world refinement meeting a thriving, modern cultural life with wine at its heart.

The Ringstrasse itself embodies this duality. Once the ceremonial boulevard of the Habsburg empire, lined with opera, parliament, and museums, today it’s a living artery of the city – equal parts cultural showcase and everyday promenade.

Here, the pleasures of Vienna range from steaming mugs of mulled wine during the December Christmas markets to glasses of Gemischter Satz poured in hillside vineyards, all within the city itself.

Heritage grandeur with a contemporary touch

The palace’s neo-Renaissance bones remain visible in Ionic columns, marble staircases, and frescoed ceilings. Anantara’s 2024 redesign simply introduced softer edges and modern energy.

Courtyards once meant for carriages now host guests beneath mirrored ceilings, velvet drapery, and playful floral wallpaper, a balance that preserves the hotel’s historical gravitas without feeling heavy.

Guest rooms echo this equilibrium. High ceilings and oversized windows flood the interiors with light; triple-glazing silences the city beyond. Courtyard-facing rooms provide quiet calm, while suites on the Ringstrasse gaze onto tree-lined boulevards.

The 270-square-metre Presidential Suite, Vienna’s largest according to the hotel, epitomises elegance with French balconies and a grand piano anchoring its salon. Touches like Acqua di Parma amenities and marble baths bring sophistication to your bathing ritual.

Sampling the flavours of Vienna

At Edvard, the Michelin one-star restaurant, chef Paul Gamauf distills seasonality into precise, soulful menus. Impeccably sourced ingredients – often foraged, pickled, or preserved – are paired with a wine list that highlights Austria’s finest, including Vienna’s own distinctive bottlings.

In winter, you might find hand-rolled ricotta cavatelli, duck breast marinated in shiokoji, or a main of roasted venison with earthy mushrooms. The dining room’s atmosphere, intimate and elegant, transforms each meal into an occasion.

For a more casual interlude, Theo’s Lounge & Bar offers an extensive wine list alongside Viennese cakes by day and cocktails by night – a fitting stop for an afternoon glass or an aperitif before dinner.

The city’s wine scene

Vienna is the only world capital where vineyards spill into the city. Some 580 hectares of vines climb the hills of Nussberg, Bisamberg, and beyond, producing around 2.5 million litres of wine each year. The signature Gemischter Satz DAC – a centuries-old field blend in which different varieties are planted, harvested, and vinified together – has become the city’s vinous calling card.

By law, at least three grapes must be included, with no single variety dominating the planting. Recognised by Slow Food and granted DAC status in 2013, Gemischter Satz is now considered one of Austria’s most iconic styles. At Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna, you’re footsteps from the region.

For those eager to explore the city’s wine scene, just speak to the concierge. The hotel works with local wine experience curator Caroline Derler who creates excursions into the hills. An afternoon might include a visit to producers such as Weingut Wieninger, followed by a vineyard walk atop Nussberg. The tour ends at a traditional Buschenschank, where glasses of Gemischter Satz are poured alongside platters of cold cuts, cheese spreads, and rustic breads. Families, couples, and friends gather shoulder to shoulder at long wooden tables as though proof of the democratic spirit of Vienna’s wine culture.

Unlike other wine destinations that whisk you deep into the countryside, in Vienna, the vineyards form part of the city’s lifeblood. A morning might begin with Klimt at the Belvedere and end with a glass of Gemischter Satz on the Nussberg, the city glittering in the distance.

For further details, see the Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna website.

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Caroline Gilby MW, Stefan Neumann MS and Wieteke Teppema tasted 87 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 36 Highly recommended

Blaufränkisch: Panel tasting scores

87 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 38

Recommended 30

Commended 13

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry red wines made in Europe from Blaufränkisch (single variety or blended, but Blaufränkisch must be 50% or more of the blend)

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Blaufränkisch panel tasting

Terroir transmitter

This great central European red grape often goes under the radar thanks to its multiple names.

Austria has led the way in showcasing Blaufränkisch, but Hungary, where it’s called Kékfrankos, is by far the biggest grower (6,983ha, compared to Austria’s 2,550ha, according to the countries’ most recent annual reports to July 2024) and is catching up rapidly.

These two nations provided most of the entries for this tasting, along with a handful from Germany (as Lemberger), Slovakia (Frankovka) and Romania.

Blaufränkisch is increasingly showing its mettle as an exciting, food-friendly grape capable of producing delicious, ageworthy wines that can reflect place.

Wieteke Teppema explained: ‘It has the capacity to show transparency of terroir, it can get lovely minerality and not every indigenous variety can do this. Blaufränkisch is edging into a territory where it can be considered a top variety.’

Stefan Neumann MS was ‘impressed that it can be a fantastic solo player with site-specific expression’. For him, ‘a standout was the Eger and Balaton flight, where oak is so well managed – a tricky thing with Blaufränkisch to allow the fruit to shine’.

Neumann also noted Austria’s Neusiedlersee and Leithaberg regions as offering ‘the right poise of elegance and not trying to over-extract’, adding: ‘Some of the best wines had age but hadn’t lost fruit.’

A fine dancing partner

The judges were also impressed by the role of Kékfrankos in blends (it’s the key grape in Hungary’s PDO Bikavér, of which there are five examples among the Highly recommendeds here).

Teppema enjoyed ‘the combination of international grapes with Kékfrankos – a lovely complement to the structure and mid-palate in those blends’.

Compared to Sangiovese/Brunello in Tuscany, Neumann found that the wines typically showed: ‘Red and sour cherry, black fruit, with a floral perfume and, in some higher crus, a meaty iodine character.’

Teppema summed up: ‘From a UK on-trade perspective, there’s a lot I’d be happy to list and share with guests.

What to eat with Blaufränkisch, by Fiona Beckett

The striking thing about many of the top-scoring wines in this tasting is that they’re from older vintages, so we’re looking for dishes that pair well with mature wines.

That generally means simple roast meats rather than spicy casseroles, although the more robust, earthy, structured and oak-influenced style of Kékfrankos would work well with a classic goulash.

Otherwise, think well-aged beef, venison, even wild boar, or roast duck or goose – especially with red cabbage – making them, perhaps, wines that would work better in autumn than high summer.

Yet there are lighter styles of Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos that would work with summery foods: cold meats such as salami and smoked ham, grilled sausages (it’s hard not to think of barbecuing at this time of year), kebabs and koftas.

Both Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos can handle a bit of spice. More traditional, full-blooded Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) blends are probably best saved – and maybe incorporated in – hearty winter stews or robust dishes such as beef short rib and braised ox cheek.

See all notes and scores from the Blaufränkisch panel tasting

Blaufränkisch panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is a DWWA joint Regional Chair in multiple categories

Stefan Neumann MS is a Master Sommelier who runs his own wine consultancy, having spent many years working in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants. Born close to Austria’s Wachau region, he is the DWWA Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland

Wieteke Teppema is director of wine for Brown’s Hotel in London. A wine buyer and competition judge, including for the DWWA, her career spans top Michelin-starred restaurants and specialist wine importers

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What is a field blend? How is it different from a blended wine?

Imagine a meadow of wildflowers picked all at once and made into perfume. Field blends are wines made from different grape varieties that are grown together in one vineyard and then co-fermented. Traditional wine blends, on the other hand, use grapes from different plots, fermented separately by variety and blended later.

The idea of mixed-grape vineyards can be traced to Roman agricultural practices, as documented by writer-farmer Columella in the 1st century CE. It didn’t happen overnight and certainly not for romantic reasons, but rather for yield.

Grapevines were likely sparse and scattered back in the day. Farmers harvested existing wild and native grapes together, and if a grape didn’t perform, it would be replaced with something that might work better.

They would propagate, trade, select and cultivate for desirable traits, such as productivity and resistance to pests and diseases. So, it makes sense that field blends are typically found in the Old World and are associated with older vines, because they pre-date modern varietal planting.

Four examples of field blends listed below

So none in the New World?

Not quite. There are centenarian vines producing field blends outside of Europe. Known for its pre-industrial agricultural approach, California’s Ridge Vineyards produces estate-grown field blends starring Zinfandel.

Also, its Pagani Ranch wine is a field blend from vines planted from the late 1800s. In neighbouring Lake County, Dancing Crow Vineyards makes a wine from co-planted vines in the ground since 1901.

These are among the few surviving field blend vineyards aged 100 years or more in California, as recognised by the Historical Vineyard Society.

Beyond California there are handfuls of other producers who are intentionally planting vineyards to produce field blends, such as South Africa’s Alheit Vineyards.

Which areas of the world are known for field blends?

Austria’s history with field blends is now seeing a revival. Gemischter Satz is a wine that showcases co-fermented grapes cultivated in and around Vienna. Producer Fritz Wieninger describes the perfect Gemischter Satz as a wine in which individual varieties are indiscernible.

‘One variety is like an instrument and the Gemischter Satz is the whole orchestra,’ he explains.

In Portugal’s Douro valley, co-planting has been a tradition for centuries, initially for Port production and more recently also for dry wines. Quinta do Crasto’s Maria Teresa comes from a plot of 54 grape varieties from heritage vines, according to Miguel Roquette, who says ‘the recipe is in the field’.

Exceptionally varied microclimates dictate precise harvest times of specific sections within the vineyard to best illuminate the terroir, and maintain the integrity and complexity of the wine.

Any other names to look out for?

Also in Portugal, Antonio Madeira seeks the ethereal side of the Dão and shares his love of rescuing old forgotten vines to make a palhete, in which black and white grapes are ‘mixed joyfully’ to create easy-drinking ‘farmer’s style’ wines.

The long-ageing ‘complantation’ wines of Domaine Marcel Deiss in Alsace are both traditional and visionary, highlighting soil specificity through 13 Alsace varieties. With great respect for tradition, Scarbolo in Friuli, northeast Italy, appreciates field blends for their ‘fascinating’ complexity.

Second-generation Mattia Scarbolo says it’s about the ‘cooperation of cultivars, with each year being a different love story’.

It’s said that wines of quality come from fruit picked at optimal ripeness. As field blend grape varieties have different ripening times, does this still apply?

Good question! Of course, the dream vineyard consists of vines with similar ripening times, but it’s not always the case – even in a monovarietal vineyard. Factoring in such variables as soil and microclimate, optimal ripeness is not achieved across all grape varieties.

Proponents of field blends strive to find that sweet spot, in which underripe berries contribute nerve and acidity, and overripe ones add complexity and body. Yet, while there are many high-quality field blends being made, this is one aspect of them that deserves further exploration.

Do field blend wines help environmental resilience?

Yes. Historically, field blend vineyards came about in part because farmers were hedging their bets against disease and adverse vintage conditions. This is still an important consideration for producers of field blends today.

David Gates of Ridge Vineyards notes that diversity in the vineyard fosters resilience because different varieties contribute different strengths.

So we should seek out field blends?

These wines tell the story of a unique vineyard, through a kaleidoscope of different grapes. This diversity can offer a wine of unexpected thrill and complexity, balance and regional character.

It’s a great one to add to your wine discovery list.

Marisa Finetti selects four field blends worth seeking out

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The Wachau region along the Danube valley is surely one of Europe’s unforgettable stretches of vineyard, alongside the Mosel in Germany and Douro in Portugal.

Most of the vineyards are very steep, and terraced within stone walls so as to benefit from maximum exposure to sunlight.

The vines are largely planted on the north side of the river and thus face south, but in a few villages across the river a handful of vineyards thrive where the river sinuously turns into the sunlight.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for wines from some of the Wachau’s leading producers

The soils in the Wachau are primary volcanic rock such as gneiss, which distinguishes them from the loess-dominated vineyards to the east along the Danube valley.

This accounts for the steely minerality of the wines, in contrast to the more opulent styles found in its neighbours to the east in the Kremstal and Kamptal.

However, on the lower sites one can also find gravel, sand, loess, and marine deposits, all better suited to Grüner Veltliner than Riesling.

Mineral grandeur

If today the Wachau is most renowned for those two varieties, it was not always thus. Fifty years ago one could encounter other varieties such as Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Neuburger, although these have mostly vanished.

They could produce excellent wines, but they rarely rivalled the intensity and grandeur of the two dominant grapes.

Such is the mineral dimension of the wines that I often find it hard to identify which of the two varieties I am tasting, especially when the source is a high elevation vineyard.

The Wachau has also benefited from its human dimension. There were a handful of producers of the highest quality – the wines from FX Pichler, Franz Hirtzberger, Prager, and Knoll, among others, are legends both within and beyond Austria.

But there was also a cooperative, the Freier Weingärtner, blessed with many outstanding sites, that also made great wines. Today it has been renamed as Domäne Wachau.

Individual styles

The wines have never been uniform in style. The influence of the river below, as well as the fact that the harvest was generally very late in the autumn, often into November, mean that botrytis could attack the grapes in damper vintages.

Some producers just accepted this as the vintage character, resulting in wines with a broader, more succulent profile (and often a few grams of residual sugar).

Other growers, such as Rudi Pichler, did everything possible to keep the grapes free of infection so as to preserve a purer, racier style.

There is no right or wrong here; just different approaches. Producers that tolerate some botrytis, and the 4-8 ensuing grams of residual sugar, generally ensure that any detectable sweetness is balanced by high acidity.

Overall, however, the wines seem more pristine and elegant than they were, say, 15 years ago. In part this is a vintage character, as in 2021 and 2022, but also a growing reluctance to pick later than necessary.

‘Most growers,’ says Emmerich Knoll Jr., ‘accept that if the fruit is ripe and healthy, then there is little to be gained by delaying the harvest.’

Grapes and lizards

In so many wine regions the growers love nothing better than to carp and quarrel, but not here, where in 1983 the great estates teamed up to create the Vinea Wachau association.

This established various ground rules focusing on maintaining quality (forbidding chaptalisation or mechanical concentration, and banning wood chips or tannin powder), but also created a kind of hierarchy based on ripeness levels at harvest.

The most basic wines were the simple, fresh Steinfeders; mid-tier wines with a bit more structure and around 12% alcohol were called Federspiel.

Meanwhile, the grandest and most long-lived wines, with alcohols ranging from 12.5% to 14.5%, were called Smaragd, referring to a local lizard encountered on the sun-baked terraces high above the river.

Today, however, Steinfeder is heading for extinction, as global warming makes that crisp uncomplicated style difficult to achieve.

Quality over ripeness

There is also a band of producers (the most renowned being Lucas Pichler of FX Pichler) that have left Vinea Wachau and thus opted out of the hierarchy.

They argue that it no longer makes sense to strive for maximum ripeness as a criterion of quality, especially if it comes at the expense of finesse.

Pichler also wants to be able to use some small oak barrels in addition to the large casks traditional to the region.

But few are following in his footsteps. Many regret the defections, but accept that in a small region with considerable competition between producers, it’s inevitable that some estates will seek to establish their own identity.

At the same time the Wachau growers agreed from 2020 to integrate the countrywide DAC system, which identifies and promotes the most typical grape variety and style of each region, such as Grüner Veltliner for the Weinviertel.

Since the Wachau already has its own classification, it didn’t make sense to many to abandon it in favour of the catch-all DAC.

Single-vineyard wines must be from the two main varieties; other varieties must be labelled as village wines. And there is no Reserve category in the Wachau.

Nothing here is controversial, and there has been no outcry from consumers. Of greater significance, according to Knoll, is the growers’ almost universal acceptance since 2023 of the criteria for sustainable farming and production promoted by ‘Sustainable Austria’.

Winning combinations

The Wachau remains the source of some of Europe’s greatest white wines.

Wines from the top sites – Kellerberg, Loibenberg, Schütt, and Steinertal to the warmer west; Singerriedel from the cooler east; and Achleiten, Klaus, Kollmütz, and Hochrain midway along the valley – have stood the test of time.

Although global warming and the need for irrigation may affect the character of some wines, the Wachau’s overall reputation is unlikely to be eclipsed.

This is due to a winning combination of factors: great vineyards, a range of elevations, a panoply of primary-rock soils, a general consensus on what constitutes an ideal expression of vineyard and wine variety, and a growing band of first-rate producers.

Leading producers in the Wachau

FX Pichler

This is probably the Wachau’s most celebrated estate. Based in Oberloiben, Franz Pichler practised the quality-oriented principles of Vinea Wachau years before the group was founded.

Since his retirement his son Lucas continues to maintain the highest standards. These are powerful wines, with great structure and longevity.

In the past some bottlings, often called ‘M’ for Monumental, were too forceful and alcoholic for some tastes, though they often met with great critical acclaim.

Nikolaihof

This estate, based in Mautern on the outskirts of Krems, has been unashamedly biodynamic for over 50 years.

The Saahs family have their own style, with some wines aged for around 10 years in casks before bottling.

They also tend to release their wines later than their neighbours, which is why they are not included in the list of recommended wines, which are all from the 2022 vintage.

The Nikolaihof wines are always modest in alcohol but never lack body, and can have remarkable longevity.

Domäne Wachau

This substantial cooperative, sourcing grapes from over 400 hectares, is a model of its kind.

The technical director, Heinz Frischengruber, works closely with the growers to maintain high viticultural standards, and a third of the vineyards are now farmed organically.

The cooperative produces a wide range of classic Wachau wines, but diverts its clientele with experimental bottlings aged in amphorae and even in marble tanks.

Prices are modest for the quality, so it’s worth opting for wines from top sites such as Achleiten.

Frischengruber

Heinz Frischengruber’s day job is at the Domäne Wachau, but his son Georg now runs the family property in Rossatz on the right bank of the Danube, across from the more celebrated wine village of Dürnstein.

The terraced vineyards are mostly on primary rock, with some loess lower down. They demonstrate that the right locations here can deliver wines of typicity and precision.

Grabenwerkstatt

Wachau native Franz Hofbauer and German Michael Linke met when working at Pyramid Valley in New Zealand.

In 2014 they created Grabenwerkstatt, sourcing grapes from a few hectares of mostly old vineyards in the decidedly cool Spitzer Graben.

They work by hand and don’t even own a tractor. They follow biodynamic principles and practise minimal intervention, creating small quantities of wine with great purity of fruit.

Top picks from the Wachau

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Experts described the discovery of Stone Age mammoth bones in an Austrian wine cellar as ‘an archaeological sensation’.

Winemaker Andreas Pernerstorfer was renovating his wine cellar in Gobelsburg, in the Krems district, when he came across the mammoth bones.

He reported his discovery to the Federal Monuments Office and archaeologists have now uncovered several layers of bones during excavation work, according to the Austrian Archaeological Institute (OeAI) of the Austrian Academy of Sciences (OeAW).

It said the last comparable discovery in Austria was 150 years ago, also in the Krems district.

Stone artefacts and charcoal at the wine cellar site suggest the mammoth bones are between 30,000 and 40,000 years old, according to archaeologists Thomas Einwögerer and Hannah Parow-Souchon, of OeAI.

‘Such a dense bone layer of mammoths is rare,’ said Parow-Souchon, who is leading the excavation work. ‘It’s the first time we’ve been able to investigate something like this in Austria using modern methods.’

So far, bones from three different mammoths have been found in the wine cellar.

It isn’t known how the animals died. Archaeologists speculated that humans may have chased the mammoths and set a trap for them on the spot where the wine cellar lies today.

‘We know that humans hunted mammoths, but we still know very little about how they did it,’ said Parow-Souchon, a researcher with OeAW. 

After being examined by researchers, the bones will be sent to the Natural History Museum in Vienna for restoration work.

Excavation work in the wine cellar was funded by the Federal Monuments Office and the province of Lower Austria.

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We live in a truly effervescent world and my pick of 25 sparkling wines from around the globe proves it – and not one of them is from Champagne. They show that compelling bubbles can be made outside the world’s foremost fizz region.

My aim in selecting these wines was simple: to provide inspiration for joyful bubbles that are just a little off the beaten track.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score for 25 sparkling wines from around the globe

I also wanted a global span and to include a few wines that stray from the usual grape varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, even though these stalwarts show their mettle in numerous spots here and score highly – above all, Chardonnay.

Setting the bar

In terms of traditional-method fizz, we have to admit that Champagne continues to be the yardstick against which all others are measured. By the same token, Champagne and the methods used in its production are what everyone looks to when they aspire to make high-quality, bottle fermented sparkling wine. This means careful site and vine selection, viticulture aimed at the different acidity and ripeness parameters required of base wines for sparkling rather than still wines. It also means different regimes for pressing grapes and, in many cases, blending across grape varieties, sites and vintages.

Why all this technical stuff? The production of fine fizz is a very involved process, and really the opposite of the much-vaunted ‘low-intervention winemaking’ so many now ascribe to. Making fine sparkling wine is the result of an infinite matrix of decisions – and requires immense expertise and experience, as well as intuition and creativity. The wines on the pages that follow show how well this process is being mastered by so many.

The most beautiful thing is that in place of Champagne’s defining and celebrated Cretaceousera chalk soils, the wines here are expressions of their place – of oceanic briskness, of Alpine altitudes, of luminous sunshine; but also of indigenous varieties. When fine sparkling wine is made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, it remains comparable to Champagne. But what if Chenin Blanc is used? Or, as I was thrilled to taste, Baga from Portugal, or Zweigelt from Austria? Then the rules of the game change again and, depending on intention, site and grape variety, wildly different styles appear that are harder to compare but just as wonderful to explore and appreciate.

Lighten the mood

So what to look for? For me, the greatest virtue of traditional-method sparkling wine is lightness. When you pop that cork you want refreshment and uplift – heaviness has no place. Let me be clear: there are some rounder, fuller-bodied wines here, some mature wines with lots of depth – yet there is no heaviness at all. The other thing I look for beyond balance, fine mousse and freshness is personality, and some of the wines in this line-up have it in abundance.

And one last thing: some of the wines clearly fall into the aperitif-spectrum, ideal for whetting the appetite and getting the juices to flow. Others, however, call for food. So let some of these wines be your dinner companions – see how well they deal with spice, with richer foods, with cheese, with dishes that combine savoury flavours with fruit. There is nothing to lose and much to discover, so go off-piste on an effervescent world tour this festive season.

Champagne alternatives: 25 top sparkling wines from around the globe

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Heunisch & Erben

For curious wine drinkers looking to taste as many by-the-glass pours as possible – in one of the city’s most beautiful bar spaces, nonetheless – a trip to Heunisch & Erben is a must. Quasi wine bar, quasi restaurant, this sprawling wine-focused establishment offers over 100 by-the-glass options at all times, which are available in various size pours for maximum exploration opportunities. Although the kitchen is only open during lunch and dinner hours, the bar’s vast array of cheese, meat, and salty bites (olives, nuts) is available all day long. Fun fact: the word Heunisch pays homage to the often-forgotten grape Heunisch Weiss (Gouais Blanc), which is a parent to Chardonnay.

Glacis Beisl

Finding a gorgeous outdoor space to indulge in a delicious bottle of wine can be a difficult feat in urban settings – especially in neighbourhoods as busy as Vienna’s Museumsquartier. Thankfully, Glacis Beisl offers an excellent reprieve. Loved for its classic bottle selection, tasty by-the-glass offerings and authentic (and affordable) Viennese cuisine, this plant-filled oasis offers the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city’s crowded streets and unwind with something delicious. With regards to wine, a well-curated selection of traditional and natural offerings grace the list, which is Austrian heavy.

Chez Bernard

Located on the top floor of the trendy Hotel Motto, Chez Bernard’s drinking and dining scene is a whole vibe. Decked out with trendy furniture, an extensive collection of plants and floor-to-ceiling windows (which offer some of the best views of the city), this hotel restaurant/bar is a great place to grab a glass of something local – with a view, of course. As the name implies, the menu is French themed, which may sound counterintuitive for those looking to enjoy local Austrian fare, but the meticulous execution of the dishes makes the stray from local cuisine worth it. It’s worth noting that the restaurant is also open for breakfast and lunch, the former of which serves up some of the city’s best bread and pastries made at the hotel’s on-site bakery. In warmer weather seasons, enjoy the outdoor rooftop access, which is found next to the restaurant’s entrance – cocktail in hand, of course.

Rundbar

Rundbar, otherwise written as R&Bar, first opened its doors in May 2022, and has quickly become the go-to meeting place for natural wine lovers all over the city. In addition to an all-natural bottle selection, the bar serves up rotating by-the-glass pours, including red, white, rosé and skin-contact options, as well as a variety of well-executed small plates. Minimal sidewalk seating is available, though the real party is to be found within the bar’s four walls – and don’t be surprised if you end up rubbing shoulders with local Austrian or visiting European natural winemakers, This is truly the place to be.

Gasthaus Grünauer

A direct recommendation from Austrian-born sommelier Aldo Sohm (voted Best Sommelier in the World, 2008) himself, Gasthaus Grünauer is a great place to go for authentic, no-frills Austrian fare. Family owned and operated since 1957, Grünauer’s specialities include classic old school favourites including schnitzel, cucumber salads and plum cakes, as well as a variety of beef and plant-based soups. Grab a glass of something local and enjoy some of the city’s best comfort food (reservations recommended). Heads up, Grünauer is only open for dinner and is closed on the weekends.

ONYX

While it may sound strange to head for sushi in Vienna, the views from Onyx are simply unbeatable. Located on the sixth floor of the Do & Co Hotel, ONYX offers breathtaking views of St. Stephen’s Cathedral via its prime location and floor-to-ceiling windows. Expect contemporary Asian dishes prepared on the restaurant’s robata grill, which is open for both lunch and dinner. For those not interested in sushi, we recommend popping in during off-hours for a simple coffee or glass of wine to experience the view firsthand.

MAST, Porzellangasse

At lunchtime or for an after-work glass of wine, MAST is where the new generation of winemakers and sommeliers hang out. This modern wine bar is located in the ninth district, just a short tram ride from the inner city. It is run by two friends and award-winning sommeliers, Matthias Pitra and Steve Breitze, with a focus on natural and orange wines.

Steirereck am Stadtpark

The Steirereck restaurant, owned by chef Heinz Reitbauer and his wife, Birgit, is Austria’s most-awarded restaurant and is ranked among the best 15 restaurants in the world. The fine-dining cuisine is peerless. The wine list, managed by the award-winning chef sommelier René Antrag, is breathtaking, offering a wide selection of mature Rieslings from the Wachau and perfect food-pairing with noble sweet wines from Burgenland.

Feinkosterei Schwarz-Hirsch

Imperial Vienna with a modern touch. A welcoming wine bar on the quaint Judenplatz square serving Austrian sparkling Sekt by the glass, plus local and national wines and noble fruit brandies. Dynamic duo Daniel Hirschmann and Matthias Schwarzmüller offer traditional Austrian cuisine with a modern interpretation. To make the most of your experience, go with a group of friends, order as many small plates as possible, and enjoy.

Silvio Nickol at Palais Coburg

The cellar at this restaurant boasts the largest collection of fine wine in Austria with around 6o,000 bins. Combined with the fine cuisine prepared by celebrity chef Silvio Nickol, this is an exclusive venue to relish exquisite Austrian and international cuisine matched with some of the rarest wines in the world. The food-pairing menus are sublime. Advance booking is recommended.

Huth Gastwirtschaft

A trip to Vienna would not be complete without a traditional Wiener Schnitzel (escalope of veal) served with a cold potato and lamb’s lettuce salad. This traditional Wirtshaus (tavern) is typical of those offering classic Austrian dishes and is open all year round. Its wine list features some of Austria’s most acclaimed names and its house wines are limited bottlings blended directly with the winemakers and served by the glass from magnum.

Vinothek St. Stephan

Situated opposite the horse-drawn Fiaker carriages, this was Vienna’s first vinotheque, established in 1976, when it enjoyed a reputation for fine Sherry, claret and Italian wines. Forty years on, this is the place to purchase that very special bottle of Austrian wine, Riedel glassware and fine Austrian spirits. Expect personal service and competent advice. For regular visitors to Vienna, it offers a special cellar service to store and enjoy your wines at the WineBANK.

Tian Bistro am Spittelberg

The original Tian Restaurant is Austria’s only vegetarian one-star Michelin restaurant. This second venue, located in the artistic seventh district of Vienna, serves innovative vegetarian and vegan recipes with locally brewed beer and organic Austrian wine. All meals at Tian Bistro am Spittelberg are served family style, and are produced from locally-sourced ingredients grown on organic farms. In addition to the world-class dinner menu, Tian Bistro am Spittelberg also offers a prix-fixe family style breakfast menu for €25 per person on Saturdays from 10:00 am to 1:00 pm. Choose your main, then share a variety of sweet and savoury snacks brought out for the table.

Schweizerhaus im Prater

The Schweizerhaus is a Viennese institution – despite its Swiss name. Found in the vast Prater public gardens near the amusement park, this beer garden, pub and restaurant pays homage to the former imperial monarchy and serves Czech and Austrian beer alongside huge roasted pork knuckles. The wine list now includes Viennese wines, plus other Austrian specialities.

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Thieves continued to target some of the world’s most sought-after fine wines at the end of last year, with Austria’s Kracher Fine Wine and Norway’s Park 29 restaurant among the latest businesses to fall victim.

Around 600 or 700 bottles of top-end wines were stolen at the end of November from Kracher Fine Wine, the merchant business that sits alongside highly regarded Kracher winery.

‘They knew exactly what they were looking for,’ director Gerhard Kracher told Decanter this week, adding some of the wines were not replaceable.

A list of wines taken was published via the Wein.Plus publication, and Kracher said the list was accurate. It includes top vintages and names from Bordeaux and California, from Châteaux Latour and Lafite Rothschild to Harlan Estate and Inglenook Rubicon.

Kracher said several other Austrian merchants has also been targeted by burglars in the previous 12 months.

In Norway, thieves recently stole around 264 bottles from Park 29 restaurant in Oslo. Those taken included top Burgundy, such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines, plus Barolo and Côte-Rôtie, said Park 29’s co-owner, Fridtjof Bade.

He told Decanter the estimated value was still being calculated, and the restaurant’s insurance company was looking into it. ‘We assume it’s between NOK1.2 million and NOK2m (£99,000 – £166,000), but we don’t know yet,’ he said.

Bade also believes the thieves knew what they were looking for. ‘They have at least looked at our wine list before they walked in,’ he said, adding Park 29 has a strong reputation for its wine menu in Norway. ‘They were so professional. It looked like somebody hadn’t been there.’

He said the situation was ‘really frustrating’, particularly because many of the wines are hard to replace.

Park 29 is well-known for its Champagne list, although relatively few top Champagnes were stolen. ‘They have just walked through a lot of good Champagnes,’ said Bade.

Other restaurants in Norway also saw fine wine stolen in the last two months of 2022, according to Norwegian newspaper Dagens Næringsliv. Tollboden in Kragerø saw top Burgundy and Bordeaux labels taken, reported the Star Wine List publication.

Kracher and Bade told Decanter they have increased security measures for their respective cellars. Kracher said, ‘We have a brand new alarm system, new camera system, our doors are new and stronger now.’

However, both also said they didn’t expect to see the stolen wines again, despite raising the alarm within the trade.

‘A lot of these bottles have their own serial number, so we have mentioned that to importers and also the wine monopoly [Vinmonopolet],’ said Bade. He added, ‘I think the bottles unfortunately are gone.’

The news follows the theft of around 132 bottles of high-end wines from Michelin-starred restaurant Coque in Madrid at the start of November.

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Austria as a whole is still white wine country, but of the 30% of red vineyards, by far the most widely planted grape is Zweigelt at 6,130ha (figures from Austrian Wine, to end May 2022).

These vineyards are mostly in the regions of Burgenland (2,337ha of Zweigelt) and Niederösterreich (3,478ha); lying within Niederösterreich is the DAC of Carnuntum, which is known for its Zweigelt wines and has 232ha planted.

Other Austrian wine regions besides Burgenland and Niederösterreich account for less than 6% of the country’s total Zweigelt production.

Scroll down for a selection of 18 Zweigelt wines to try

Zweigelt’s ubiquity is perhaps the more surprising as, like Germany’s Müller-Thurgau, it is a crossing – of Blaufränkisch and St Laurent, although fruitier but less elegant than either of its precursors. The grape was created in 1922 by Dr Fritz Zweigelt, who happens to have been a keen Nazi, causing some controversy over its origins.

None of this detracts from the fact that Zweigelt remains, for growers and consumers, a popular grape. It ripens early and is not susceptible to frost or disease. Yields are generous and it suits a range of styles, including the ‘nouveau’.

It’s often blended with Blaufränkisch, Merlot or other varieties. Blaufränkisch, Austria’s other leading red grape, gives more complex wines, with more acidity and structure, but Zweigelt offers versatility and an immediate appeal, playing variations on cherry fruit.

A tale of two regions

Two regions have opted to highlight the grape as a monovarietal. The Neusiedlersee appellation in Burgenland covers the eastern side of the eponymous lake, and Zweigelt occupies 24% of the vineyards. One could argue that its greatest wines are the exquisite Trockenbeerenauslese and other sweet wines, but when it came to defining the ‘typical’ wine of the region for purposes of a DAC appellation (first granted in 2012), the mantle fell on Zweigelt. The basic DAC is aged in steel or used casks, whereas Zweigelt Reserve must be vinified and aged in wood for at least 18 months, and can also be a single-vineyard wine.

In the wider Carnuntum DAC, red wines must comprise a minimum two-thirds of Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch blended with other permitted varieties – nearly 28% of the vineyards here are planted with Zweigelt, making it the most widely encountered variety.

A private organisation of about 40 producers also makes wines under the ‘Rubin Carnuntum’ banner – prior to 2011 this was a single-variety wine made from either Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch, but since 2011 only pure Zweigelt can be used. Officially, Rubin should be an entry-level wine – and pricing generally reflects this – but I find many examples deliver considerable fruit and weight. Overall, it remains a style that’s accessible and young. Such wines are generally aged in tanks or large casks that confer no overtly woody aromas or flavours.

In contrast, there are Zweigelts from both Burgenland and Niederösterreich that are given more sophisticated handling, some with long ageing in barriques, often with a fair proportion of new barrels used. Such wines need to be evaluated on an individual basis, as medium-bodied Zweigelt is not the ideal candidate for ageing in barriques. There are certainly some excellent examples, but also wines that are extracted and excessively chewy. There seems little point in treating Zweigelt as though it were Cabernet Sauvignon.

Other regions in Lower Austria, as well as Styria, also make Zweigelt of immediate charm, if little complexity. Despite the marketing drive in recent years, there is a risk that excessive claims are made for the grape, carrying the possibility of disappointment among consumers whose expectations have been ramped up. Though there are good, structured examples, many of the most successful wines are those that offer immediate appeal and satisfaction over the medium term.

Tasting notes and scores for 18 Zweigelts to try

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International judges invited to far-flung wine competitions are expected to bring an interesting bottle to share with the other judges. So in Australia one year I brought a Grüner Veltliner from Jurtschitsch in the Kamptal that was over thirty years old. It had been given to me by the producer a year earlier. I poured it blind. None of the judges could identify the variety, and they all gasped with disbelief when I revealed the vintage.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 ageworthy Grüner Veltliner wines

This anecdotal evidence should not be taken as proof that Grüner Veltliner is invariably a long-lived variety. Much of it is intended to be enjoyed young and has no pretensions to grandeur. Yet some producers in Lower Austria have assured me that on certain soils types and microclimates Grüner Veltliner can age in bottle better than Riesling. I haven’t had a large enough statistical sample to know whether this is so, but I have tasted many venerable Grüner Veltliners that remain in good shape.

Old isn’t necessarily better. To be worth cellaring, a wine needs to be capable of evolving in an interesting way, either aromatically or on the palate – or both. That is not always true of Grüner Veltliner. I would consider cellaring a Grüner Veltliner from a top producer and a top site in the Wachau or Kremstal, but I would think twice about putting away a basic wine from the Weinviertel. Better to drink a wine for its youthful fruit, than in its leaden or oxidising old age.

Residual sugar

An exception probably has to be made for a wine with residual sugar. Sweet Rieslings, to be sure, can age magnificently, but Grüner Veltliner is mostly vinified as a dry wine. Unlike Riesling, it does not easily succumb to botrytis, though it does happen in certain vintages in the Wachau. For a dry Grüner Veltliner to age it needs extract and concentration and balance rather than sweetness.

Luck and good cellaring conditions may play a role too. Long ago a producer in the Kremstal fished out a wine from the 1970s from a stash of older bottles in his cellar. He chose it more or less at random, and opened it without any great expectations. Nor was it a great wine: but it was fully alive and enjoyable after about 25 years in a cool cellar. The producer was surprised too. ‘You have to remember,’ he told me, ‘that back in the 1970s the yields would have been much higher than today, that this wine was not sourced from a renowned vineyard, and that the vinification would have been more slapdash than it would be today. But it’s still fresh and drinkable!’

Bottle ageing doesn’t usually produce startling changes in the wine. Mature Grüner Veltliner can take on nutty or smoky aromas, but in many cases what is striking is that the wine retains its fruit and expressiveness without taking on the characteristics of an old wine. That is why my co-tasters in Australia were so surprised by that venerable but still youthful Jurtschitsch wine.

So is Grüner Veltliner worthy of lengthy cellaring? The answer is yes, but only if certain conditions are met: the wine should be from an estate with a proven track record, and the site (such as Kellerberg or Achleiten in the Wachau, or Lamm in the Kamptal) should be renowned for the variety. In such cases bottle age should, with luck, reveal more complex aromas and a more nuanced minerality.

Ageworthy Grüner Veltliner: Stephen Brook’s top 10 wines

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Selecting the finest vineyard sites is a fraught matter in any country, and Austria is no exception. Owners of specific sites are understandably keen to have them validated; other owners have less of a vested interest. Moreover, in some areas, precise boundaries between vineyards have sometimes been difficult to pin down, and some vineyards, such as Gaisberg in Kamptal, belong to more than one village.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 12 top white wine picks from Lower Austria

Despite all this, the growers’ association called the Oesterreichische Traditionsweingüter (Austrian traditional wine estates) has – off its own bat – created a selection of what its members consider the finest vineyards (Rieden) in Lower Austria. The association has no official standing, but is widely respected and few would quarrel with its choice of some 90 sites as Erste Lagen (first growths).

Not many are household names, but the same might well be true of the premier cru vineyards of Santenay or St Aubin. As with the official DAC classification, only traditional varieties win the association’s seal of approval for each site.

There is one serious flaw in the Erste Lage classification: the Wachau, arguably Austria’s most prestigious wine region, is not included, as Wachau growers have their own growers’ association, Vinea Wachau. And by definition, regions outside Lower Austria, such as the Burgenland and Styria, are excluded.

Nonetheless, there is widespread agreement about which vineyards repeatedly deliver outstanding results. The selection below cannot be definitive, as it is dependent on other factors such as the competence of owners.

Wachau

Achleiten (22 ha): For Heinz Frischengruber, technical director of the fine cooperative Domäne Wachau, this is the greatest vineyard in all of Austria. That may be hyperbole, but many would agree that it’s the top site of the Wachau.

It lies within the village of Weissenkirchen. Its soils, with mica schist lower down and gneiss higher up, as well as patches of loess and limestone, generate highly mineral wines that are exceptionally pungent and expressive. Elevation is an important factor, as it ranges from 200 to 360 metres, all on terraces with very little topsoil.

Most of the terraces, which enjoy excellent ventilation, face south and southwest. Both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are structured and long-lived, though Toni Bodenstein of the Prager estate describes them as relatively feminine.

Kellerberg (15 ha): The Wachau is not immune from global warming, and some growers fear that certain esteemed sites, such as Loibenberg, are now becoming too hot for ideal ripening. Vineyards in Spitz, the most westerly and coolest village, are consequently becoming more prized. Nonetheless, certain traditionally renowned vineyards have maintained their reputation.

Dürnsteiner Kellerberg is one example. The sandy loess topsoil is a bit deeper than that of Achleiten, but not far from the surface there’s primary rock, with gneiss and quartz.

Kellerberg produces powerful wines, but a side valley brings in cooler air to refresh the vines.

Kamptal

Zöbinger Heiligenstein (35 ha): If Achleiten is Austria’s most revered vineyard, then Heiligenstein is surely its best known. It rises loftily above surrounding vineyards, which have mostly loam and loess soils, and offers a more complex soil profile. The elevation ranges from 240 to 350 metres, and the technical name for its geological structure is ‘perm’, a mind of brittle volcanic sandstone and feldspar.

This bedrock is sufficiently fissured to allow roots to descend in search of nutrients. South-facing, it’s a very warm location, but cool winds from the north help to maintain acidity. The vineyards are terraced and this is one of the few spots in the Kamptal where Riesling reigns supreme.

Heiligenstein is a large site, with over a dozen proprietors. So quality is not always that consistent, but the owners include some of Austria’s most illustrious names: Bründlmayer, Gobelsburg, Jurtschitsch, Hirsch, and Loimer. Bründlmayer actually produces three different Rieslings from here.

Given its size and the diversity of producers, it’s hard to generalise about flavour profiles, but Heiligenstein Riesling often displays a pronounced citric character and the wines can be very long-lived, rivalling the top growths of the Wachau.

Kammerner Lamm (25 ha): Lamm is situated on the southeastern flank of Heiligenstein, and is largely composed of the loam and loess that are absent from its neighbour, although the highest sector has some sandstone too. It offers a completely different expression of Kamptal terroir. For a start, it is planted solely with Grüner Veltliner, and its lower elevation, up to 280 metres, means that the site is exceptionally warm. That warmth is mitigated by excellent ventilation. In the 1990s, when super-rich wines were in vigour, it was not uncommon to encounter Lamm wines with over 15% alcohol.

Fortunately, today’s wines show more restraint and elegance. Nonetheless, these are broad-shouldered wines with considerable power, but the best of them age well too.

Here too there are multiple owners. Bründlmayer and Gobelsburg are the best known, but excellent wines are also produced by Eichinger, Jurtschitsch, and Hirsch.

Kremstal

This is the most diverse Lower Austrian region in terms of its geological makeup. Most of the vineyards are calcareous, but may also contain deep beds of loess near or below the surface. The same applies to the flatter vineyards on the south side of the Danube. Sites close to the river may also contain a significant proportion of gravel. However, just west of Krems itself, behind the adjoining town of Stein, are steeply terraced sites of primary rock, often gneiss or mica, that resemble the vineyards of the Wachau, which they border.

In addition, around Senftenberg, well away from the river, is a group of dramatic and steep terraced vineyards. Here there may be patches of loam and loess, but the sites are dominated by primary rock that often lies close to the surface.

Hochäcker (14 ha): This medium-sized terraced vineyard is in the village of Senftenberg and is the upward extension of another well-known suite, Pellingen. It was first documented in 1425. Some years ago Hochäcker was not that esteemed, because of its cold and windy microclimate, since the elevation rises to 380 metres. But with global warming, those very conditions are seen as advantageous.

The wild landscape here protects an abundance of flora and fauna which provide Hockäcker with its biodiversity. The wines are very concentrated and mineral, with exemplary finesse and good ageing potential. The weathered soil is rich in iron and gneiss, making it ideal for Riesling. There are two principal proprietors: Proidl and Nigl.

Vienna

Until recently the over 600 hectares of vineyards within the capital’s city limits were not that highly regarded, as most of the grapes were used to supply the numerous Heurigen, or wine inns, in villages such as Grinzing, Heiligenstadt, and Neustift. Most of those who flocked to the Heurigen were more interested in quantity than quality, so standards were not especially high, although the top wineries, such as Wieninger and Mayer, have always sold their best wines in bottle, and not just in Vienna.

The most famous vineyard, overlooking the city’s most bucolic suburbs, is the Nussberg, but it’s a very large site that isn’t uniform in quality. The best producers bottle wines from sectors within the Nussberg, such as Gollin or Preussen.

Preussen (11.5 ha): First documented in 1277, Preussen has a rather complex geological structure with sandstone, quartz, limestone, and some marine sediments too. It’s a fine source of Rieslings and also of Vienna’s DAC wine Wiener Gemischter Satz, which honours the ancient tradition of field blends that are still common in this area.

Stephen Brook’s top white wine picks from Lower Austria

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You would be forgiven for thinking that Grüner Veltliner was somehow related to Roter Veltliner and, for that matter, Frühroter Veltliner. The latter is an Austrian variation on Malvasia, while Roter Veltliner is unrelated to its more famous green counterpart, and genetically it is a more ancient variety.

The skins aren’t actually red, as the name suggests, but can have a reddish tinge, while the juice is free of pigment. In the 19th century, it was said to be the dominant variety in Wagram, but the surface declined.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for five Roter Veltliner wines worth seeking out

The bunches tolerate heat well and the vines can thrive in dry conditions, retaining good acidity – generally higher than that of Grüner Veltliner – as it ripens. But there are drawbacks too. It’s naturally high-yielding so the crop needs to be reined back. It is also susceptible to disease but can handle some botrytis at harvest. Unfortunately, it is also prone to more damaging forms of rot, which may well account for its loss of vineyard share.

Sadly, it’s a variety in slow decline. Twenty years ago there were 270 hectares under vine; today the figure is closer to 188.

Most of the vineyards are in Wagram, although there is also a small production in the Kremstal, where the Mantlerhof estate is credited with reviving the variety.

In Wagram, the most committed producer has long been Josef Fritz, and one-fifth of his 15 hectares are planted with the variety. And for Franz Leth, one of Wagram’s best-known wine producers, Roter Veltliner is his favourite variety.

Grüner Veltliner has the advantage of versatility. Most examples can be drunk with pleasure when very young, and stylistically it ranges from the fresh and lively to the rich and serious, with remarkable longevity. Roter Veltliner is different. It needs a high level of ripeness to give real satisfaction, and it invariably improves with a few years’ bottle age to show greater complexity and nuance. These factors are a hindrance when it comes to commercial viability, which is another reason why production is so limited.

The wine is generally aged in medium or large casks, and although unoaked, or Klassik, examples do exist, they can lack personality.

A mature Roter Veltliner from a good producer can display a light exoticism. It’s never as pronounced as the tropical-fruit character of many Rotgipflers, and neither does it rely on residual sugar for its baroque character. It can also show a pronounced floral character, and sometimes a dash of honey. It delivers wines that are relatively high in extract, which contributes to their longevity and complexity. Rotgipfler is often quite sweet, while Roter Veltliner can range from the fully dry to a broader structure with a light touch of residual sugar.

As with Zierfandler, its limited production means that it is rarely encountered outside Austria, but that’s no reason not to seek it out when the opportunity arises.

See tasting notes and scores for five Roter Veltliner wines worth seeking out

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The Thermenregion stretches southwest from Vienna and includes the spa towns of Bad Vöslau and Baden.

Its most famous wine village is Gumpoldskirchen, which used to produce rich and long-lived wines, often with considerable sweetness, but the style has fallen out of fashion, though such wines can still be found.

Its main local white varieties are Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, both names something of a mouthful for English- and non-English speaking wine enthusiasts.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for five Zierfandler wines worth seeking out

Nonetheless, they are both of considerable interest and deserve to be better known – a separate article on Rotgipfler will follow.

Although indigenous to the region, the varieties could hardly be more different. Zierfandler is late-ripening and has high acidity, giving it a Riesling-like structure and considerable longevity.

Rotgipfler, in contrast, ripens earlier, and its flavour profile is packed with hints of tropical fruit, while its plump texture is totally unlike the rapier-like Zierfandler.

Both varieties have their partisans, and I’m an enthusiast for the racy Zierfandler over the fatter, more opulent Rotgipfler.

However, there is no need to choose, as the Gumpoldskirchen tradition was to blend the two, the acidity of the former cutting the plumpness of the latter. Naturally, to confuse consumers even more, Zierfandler, when blended, is usually known as Spätrot, giving a wine called Spätrot-Rotgipfler.

It’s still produced – there are good examples from Reinisch and Stift Klosterneuburg – but the trend for some time has been to make monovarietal wines. Despite the frequent sweetness of much Rotgifler, Zierfandler is no slouch in the sweetness stakes, and in certain years can produce TBAs of searing purity and freshness.

Zierfandler is not that easy to grow. Picked too early, and the acidity can be aggressive; overcropped, and it can be neutral. It also benefits from bottle age. Reticent in its youth, Zierfandler can be tense and rigid before opening up after a few years to show great complexity.

It’s not just the nomenclature that prevents these wines from being better known. The surface planted with both is small, so production and distribution are limited. Also, the Thermenregion is well stocked with Heurigen (wine taverns) so much of the wines are consumed by thirsty locals or Viennese on a day trip. Fortunately, the wines that find their way into bottle tend to be of superior quality.

Zierfandler is likely to remain a niche wine, and Spätrot-Rotgipfler even more so. Distribution outside Austria, even outside the region, remains limited, although the wines do have an ardent, if limited, following. That does not mean they are not worth seeking out. Zierfandler will appeal to those with relatively classic tastes when it comes to flavour and structure in white wines (although Heinrich Hartl does produce an intriguing ‘orange’ wine from the grape); Rotgipfler and the blends offer an exoticism reminiscent of a very ripe Pinot Gris from Alsace. It’s tempting to cling to the tried and tested – and in Austria that usually means Grüner Veltliner – but it can be more rewarding to stray in the direction of local specialities.

See tasting notes and scores for five Zierfandler wines worth seeking out

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Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s most widely planted white variety, occupying almost a third of the nation’s vineyards, and it’s not hard to see why – it’s a grape that succeeds in a variety of styles.

Staying with friends in Vienna in the 1980s, we would consume substantial quantities of Grüner Veltliner bought from the producer at a local market. It was simple but fresh, quaffable, and inexpensive.

Later, in 1998, I participated in a famous blind tasting in Vienna that pitted top Grüner Veltliners against some of the most prestigious wines from Burgundy. The Austrian wines triumphed and, at the least, the tasting demonstrated that these were wines to be taken very seriously.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 Austrian Grüner Veltliner wines

That tasting helped to establish Grüner Veltliner’s international reputation. It may not be as popular as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, but it has a strong following among sommeliers and a growing band of wine lovers who appreciate its versatility.

The simpler styles are excellent aperitifs or accompaniments to charcuterie or chicken; the more serious wines can partner richer dishes.

Nor need it be expensive. So much is produced throughout Lower Austria that prices are competitive (the only regions where it is scarce are the Burgenland and Styria).

Grüner’s personality

Grüner Veltliner does not thrive on very dry soils, nor on very rich sites that can result in high yields.

It is equally at home in the rocky soils of the Wachau and parts of Kremstal, on loam in Kamptal, and on the deep loess of the Wagram.

It’s not particularly susceptible to botrytis (but can give excellent ice wines) and is farmed with relative ease. It is usually aged in steel tanks or large old casks, so costs of production are moderate.

Its stylistic signature is a tang of white pepper, although that is mostly associated with wines from the northerly Weinviertel, where the climate is cool, even marginal, so that ripening isn’t always optimal.

With global warming, however, the wines are delivering riper flavours, although white pepper is still a common component found in simpler wines from the Weinviertel or Kremstal.

At the other extreme Grüner Veltliner can produce wines the Austrians term ‘baroque’, that is rich and opulent, but also tending to sweetness and heaviness, although this style is now falling into disfavour.

Vintage reports

Recent vintages have been very good. 2019 saw an early harvest of healthy grapes after a warm summer and mild autumn.

The summer of 2020 was more variable with some heavy rainfall, so selection was often essential; moreover, hail in the Wachau severely reduced the crop, but the wines turned out well, with fine acidity and ample fruit.

2021 was potentially the best of the trio after a fine September that again led to an early harvest of ripe wines with excellent acidity.

These are wines that can be bought with confidence, and these recent vintages can be broached now, although the best wines will keep for a decade or more.

See tasting notes and scores for 20 Austrian Grüner Veltliner wines

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Surprising variety

Austrian wine is mostly known for the multiple expressions of its flagship white variety, Grüner Veltliner. Grown predominantly in Niederösterreich, where it is indigenous from, it produces wines with lively acidity and flavours ranging from crunchy to ripe stone fruit. The best examples are said to have a distinct spicy edge.

But there are many other varieties to discover in this fascinating wine country, equally influenced by the Germanic and Austro-Hungarian traditions. Riesling does extremely well on the crystalline hard rock slopes of the Wachau, where it is the main variety.

In Burgenland, Pinot Blanc/Weissburgunder, Pinot Gris/Grauburgunder and Welschriesling perform very well, with great examples of the variety hailing from this region. In some areas (namely Leithaberg) the limestone soils give the two Burgundian varieties the ideal conditions to show their best. Welschriesling, on the other hand, grows mostly on the northeastern and eastern banks of the Neusiedler See; the same characteristics which make it one of the favoured varieties for the region’s renowned botrytis wines (transparency of flavour, acid retention) also shape enjoyable, vibrant dry wines.

And then there is of course Furmint, which Austria shares with Hungary along its eastern border. Although mostly of Tokaji fame, Furmint has a long-rooted tradition in Burgenland where it’s being actively revived by passionate winemakers.

Further south, in Styria, you will find idiosyncratic Sauvignon Blancs known for their trademark minerality.

Chillable Reds

It’s also worth thinking beyond the whites when seeking Austrian wines for the hotter months of the year. The country’s leading red grapes – Sankt Laurent, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt (a crossing of the latter two) – all have the capacity to produce lively reds, with restrained alcohol and a firm acid backbone.

Although mostly known for luscious, robust wines, notably from Carnuntum, when handled lightly Zweigelt produces fruit-forward very drinkable pours. Sankt Laurent, member of the Pinot family, is a very suitable blending companion – as is Pinot Noir itself – for lighter styles, adding a streak of mineral freshness.

Focus on balance and sustainability

Austria has emerged, in the past couple of decades, as a hotspot of sustainable viticulture and winemaking; just over 15% of the total vineyard area is certified organic, with a fifth of this certified biodynamic. Driving the trend is a vibrant community of winemakers building upon tradition and championing fresh approaches to traditional styles while also exploring worldly trends. Some of the most delicious pét-nats and orange wines, for example, hail from Austria.

Overall, the country is a perfect, plentiful source for lovers of low-intervention, yet very well crafted, wines, with the added benefit of being generally quite restrained in alcohol. Again, perfect for summer drinking!

Food pairings

Summer wines evoke the inevitable barbecues and garden parties. But also relaxed midweek dinners, either with company or alone, after a hard day’s work.

These wines all share a natural affinity with food; albeit light on their feet, underpinned by vibrant acidity, they have the necessary structure and texture to pair with a variety of dishes – not least those vegetables and sausages sizzling in the grill.

But as with all things in summer, you should keep it simple and keep it cool. Take a cue from Austria’s own Buschenschänken and simply make sure you have a good selection of cold cuts, cheeses and salads at the ready. Buschenschänken are tavern-like spaces run by the wine producers themselves and only allowed to sell the producer’s own wine and cold foods. They are known for their homely feeling and local delicious produce. Only open a few days (and months) per year they truly set the mood and create a very summery sense of communal joy. Which is what wine should be all about.

Ten Austrian wines to try this summer

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Wine tourists usually drive past cooperatives without stopping, and for good reason. Most of them operate on the principle of the lowest common denominator. Finding a home for tons of often mediocre grapes is the priority, not high-quality wine production. There are exceptions in Chablis, St-Emilion, Barbaresco – and in the town of Dürnstein in the Wachau.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for nine top Domäne Wachau wines

Originally known as the Freie Weingärtner Wachau, this cooperative’s name was changed in 2008. But by then it already had a strong reputation.

It works with 250 growers who farm 450 hectares, and the annual production is around three million bottles. It does help that the region contains some of Europe’s outstanding vineyards.

The Wachau is the most westerly region along the Danube, with most sites overlooking the river, which has a strong moderating influence. Soils vary, with ancient gneiss and other stony soil types high up, where Riesling is planted on terraced vineyards. Lower down Grüner Veltliner, the dominant variety, thrives on slightly more fertile soils.

Many of the growers farm tiny parcels, often well under a hectare, but located in exceptional sites. All told, the Domäne has substantial holdings in some of Wachau’s top sites such as Achleiten, Kellerberg, Singerriedl, and many more.

The result is a spectacular collection of single-vineyard wines, as well as more commercial offerings such as rosés from Zweigelt.

Roman Horvath, one of Austria’s few Masters of Wine, is the director, and at his side is Heinz Frischengruber, who comes from a local family of growers. Frischengruber is the cooperative’s secret weapon.

During the summer he is out in the vineyards with the growers every day to supervise the farming and, later, the harvest. He also runs seminars on treatments, organic farming, and other issues of common interest.

Together with Horvath and the growers, he decides on picking dates by tasting in each vineyard. All sorting is done among the vines, and there are no sorting tables at the winery.

Viticulture

Fermentation takes place using indigenous yeasts and also the Domäne’s own selection. Malolactic fermentation is discouraged. The single-vineyard wines are generally aged in large casks so there is no overt oak influence.

Botrytis is quite common in the region. Some producers welcome a touch of noble rot for the added complexity and weight it brings; others try to avoid it at all costs to retain a classic style. The team here is in the latter camp, so any heavily botrytised fruit is separated and used to produce sweet wines. But these are the exceptions, as the main focus is on dry white wines.

The Wachau has created a quality hierarchy based on ripeness at harvest. Steinfeder is the lowest level – fresh wines for early drinking – while Smaragd, named after a green lizard that suns itself on the dry stone walls around the vineyards, is the highest, with alcohol levels generally between 13% and 14.5%.

Steinfeder has all but disappeared, as global warming guarantees good ripeness in most recent vintages, but the Domäne remains keen on its Federspiel wines. Most of them are blends under the ‘Terrassen’ brand, and they offer good value, with varietal typicity, great freshness, and a moderate capacity to age.

Some years ago I attended the launch of the Wachau’s 2010 Smaragd vintage and asked when the wines would be consumed. ‘From tomorrow,’ I was told. There is no doubt that Austrians and Germans too like their white wines young, and their youthful vibrancy can be very enjoyable. But bottle age can bring out aromas and nuances not apparent when the wine is very young, and in a good vintage, both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner Smaragd wines can easily age for twenty years. This is entirely a matter of personal preference.

Other bottlings

Domäne Wachau also enjoys producing more experimental wines under their ‘Backstage’ category.

These include a Riesling fermented on the skins for six months in 300-litre amphorae, then aged further in neutral barrels. Müller-Thurgau ‘X’ is fermented in concrete eggs, but in my experience, it’s an austere wine with many of the limitations of this generous variety.

More interesting is ‘SteinWerk’, a Grüner Veltliner vinified in a tank made of marble. For me, the most intriguing of the Backstage wines is the Gemischter Satz or field blend. This style is common in Vienna but less so in other parts of Austria. These vines – some from varieties that are no longer planted – are close to a century old, and fermented in older tonneaux.

Nonetheless, these Backstage wines are sidelines. The focus remains, as it should be, on the often magnificent single-vineyard wines from the Wachau’s great sites.

Thanks to the domaine’s scrupulous attention to detail, especially in the vineyards, these bottlings can be every bit as fine as many pricier offerings from established estates in the region.

Stephen Brook’s top Domäne Wachau picks

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Austria’s Wagram region granted DAC status

With the signing off by the Austrian minister of agriculture, sustainability and tourism, Elisabeth Köstinger, Wagram becomes Austria’s seventeenth DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus), following Wachau and Ruster Ausbruch in 2020, and Carnutum in October 2019.

‘This was not an easy nut for the winemakers of the Wagram region to crack,’ said Chris Yorke, CEO of the Austrian wine marketing board, Austrian Wine, ‘but after comprehensive discussions and much thought, the Wagram region is now able to join the DAC family.’

Alongside DAC status, Wagram is adopting a pyramidal quality scheme similar to that followed by other Austrian wine regions, consisting of three categories: Gebietswein (regional-wide wine), Ortswein (village wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine).

Thirteen grapes may be used to make Gebietswein-level wines: Chardonnay, Frühroter Veltliner, Grauer Burgunder, Grüner Veltliner, Gelber Muskateller, Roter Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Blauburgunder, St. Laurent, and Zweigelt. Wines may be monovarietal, blends, or Gemischter Satz (field blends).

Only seven varieties are instead allowed to produce Ortswein: Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Blauburgunder, and Zweigelt. These village-level bottling must be monovarietal and should display the name of one of the 27 permitted communes.

Sitting at the top of the quality pyramid, Riedenweine are made with fruit from a single, officially approved vineyard. The category allows for the use of the region’s leading grape varieties only, Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner and Riesling.

Regardless of category, the DAC decrees that all DAC white wines should be dry and show no dominant oak flavours.

Alongside the new protected designation of origin, the amendments of Austria’s wine regulations also affected the country’s sparkling wine (Sekt) and the Kremstal region.

In a bid to ensure that the Austrian origins are clearly communicated to the drinker, labels of the country’s sparkling wines with designation of origin (Sekt g.U.) must now show the terms Sekt Austria, Sekt Austria Reserve, or Sekt Austria Große Reserve. ‘By employing the designation ‘Sekt Austria’ for sparkling wines with all-Austrian origins, we are creating a clear position and profile for these premium wines, which come in three classes,’ explained Yorke.

All Sekt are expected to be made with grapes of Austrian origin, from a single federal state in the case of Sekt Austria and Sekt Austria Reserve, and from a single village or vineyard for the Große Reserve category. Furthermore, Reserve and Große Reserve may only be made through the traditional Champenoise method, with a minimum period of maturation on the lees of 18 and 36 months respectively.

Meanwhile, the Kremstal region gained nine legally defined Ortswein (village) origins: Krems, Stein, Rohrendorf, Gedersdorf, Stratzing, Senftenberg, Furth, Höbenbach, and Krustetten.

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Austria is still rich in monastic estates, many of which own extensive vineyards. The Cistercian order of Stift Zwettl, now celebrating its 850th anniversary, is no exception. But a pious monk is not necessarily an expert winemaker, so most monastic estates lease out their vineyard holdings.

The monks of Gobelsburg made their own wines until 1995, when the retirement of Father Bertrand, who oversaw wine production, meant that they had to find a new solution.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 17 Schloss Gobelsburg Heiligenstein Rieslings

They negotiated a 60-year lease with the highly experienced local wine producer, Willi Bründlmayer, and with Michael Moosbrugger, who was still in his twenties.

The negotiations were completed in a mere six weeks, at which point, in January 1996, Moosbrugger moved into the Schloss, where he has remained ever since.

Bründlmayer is a kind of sleeping partner, so in practice, the 75-hectare estate is run by Moosbrugger and his team.

Today Schloss Gobelsburg produces over forty wines in a range of styles, but its most esteemed wine is the Riesling from Zöbinger Heiligenstein. This is the most celebrated vineyard in the Kamptal, lining the terraced slopes of a south-facing hill that rises from 240 to 350 metres.

About 100 growers produce wine from here, but some of the holdings are very small. Gobelsburg owns three hectares in two parcels.

Terroir

The soil here is known as Zöbinger Perm, which forms a geological island in an area dominated by both primary rock and loess soils. It’s a weathered sandstone, often reddish in colour, with volcanic elements.

The soil structure allows roots to descend easily through it in search of nutrients. Cool winds from the north maintain acidity in the grapes, while warm Pannonian breezes from the east help to ensure good ripening.

The Gobelsburg sites are planted with massal selections of Riesling. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed, then fermented with indigenous yeasts in large casks, though the team will add selected yeasts if a stuck fermentation should occur.

The wine stays on the fine lees until February and is only bottled in the second spring after the harvest.

As part of the anniversary celebrations, this vertical tasting of Heiligenstein Riesling spanned fifty years of production. It’s clear from the notes below that some of the vintages produced by the monks’ winemakers were disappointing. One can only speculate about an explanation, but it’s probable that grape selection is stricter now than in the past. Moreover, cellar hygiene may have been less rigorous.

Style

Another striking difference between the monastic and later styles of wine is the alcohol level.

To a large extent, this must be the consequence of global warming, but it’s clear there was also a tendency to pick earlier during the monastic era, whereas Moosbrugger and his contemporaries are prepared to take the risk of delaying harvest (weather permitting) to deliver riper and more complex fruit.

Moosbrugger explained that there are two stylistic approaches to white wine production in Heiligenstein (and indeed in the Wachau too).

With harvests often stretching well into November, some botrytis infection is far from unusual. Some growers remove any botrytised fruit from the vineyard so as to maintain the purity conferred by entirely healthy fruit. Others will tolerate a small proportion of botrytis in the wine, believing it adds texture and complexity.

Moosbrugger is instinctively in the former camp, but fully understands why other producers take a different view.

Whatever the stylistic variations, in top vintages the magnificence of the site comes shining through in a brilliant fusion of taut Riesling fruit with a striking minerality. Such a tasting could probably be replicated in the Wachau, with its primary rock soils, but not in the Kamptal, where Heiligenstein is a unique site.

See tasting notes of 17 Schloss Gobelsburg Heiligenstein Rieslings

Wines are listed in score order. A Heiligenstein 1971 wine was also tasted but was corked.

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The consistent quality of wines from Austria is evident year after year at the Decanter World Wine Awards, and results from the 2020 competition showcase the depth and breadth of wines available to discover. 

On judging Austrian wines at DWWA last August, judge Jan Konetzki commented, ‘We have felt that classically the Rieslings are very good, but also there have been a couple of really fantastic field blends. 

‘In general there’s a wide diversity, but also a very high level of Austrian wines. It’s really one of the countries in Europe where we have generally such a high level [of wines] that you can really pinpoint, so we’re very, very happy with the turnout.’

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Austrian wines from DWWA 2020 and tasting notes

DWWA judge Dirceu Vianna Junior MW also points to the high quality of Austria’s wines, highlighting the country’s ‘interesting red wines to be discovered further afield’ on Decanter Premium’s ‘Top wine trends for 2021: countries, varieties and styles worth exploring.’ 

Below, from sparkling to sweet, or Chardonnay to Blaufränkisch, discover the diversity of Austria’s wines with a selection of top-scoring wines from DWWA 2020…

Austria’s top-scoring wines: Diversity to discover

Sparkling

Loimer, Reserve Extra Brut, Niederösterreich NV

Gold, 95 points

Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

Opulent and toasty nose which reveals toasted nuts, grapefruit pith and smoke. Wonderfully vibrant palate; bone dry but packed with candied lemon peel, salted almonds and red berries, prior to an intense, creamy and textured finish.

Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg, Mathäi Grosse Reserve Zero Dosage, Wien NV

Silver, 93 points

Chardonnay

Gentle yet crisp, with aromas of mirabelle, candied orange peel and sour dough, then an opulent, creamy but structured palate showing lingering brioche.

Bründlmayer, Rosé Brut, Niederösterreich NV

Silver, 91 points

Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, St Laurent

Wonderful character, showing aromas of peach ice tea, wild strawberry and fresh red currants, with a creamy texture run through with crisp acidity.

White

Weingut Birgit Eichinger, Ried Zöbinger Gaisberg 1ÖTW Riesling, Kamptal, Niederösterreich 2018

Gold, 95 points

Riesling

Elegant and multi-faceted, with a nose reminiscent of apricots, peaches, lemon peel and smoke. To taste it displays a cool, cracked-stone minerality, tangerine peel, hay and flint, then a wonderfully long and salty finish.

Weingut Gross, Ried Nussberg Sauvignon Blanc, Südsteiermark, Steiermark 2017

Silver, 94 points

Sauvignon Blanc

Opulent and pure, with a touch of flint gracing notes of ripe apricot, Cape gooseberry and butterscotch, with a fine line of acidity and a vanilla background.

Weingut Sattlerhof, Ried Pfarrweingarten Morillon, Südsteiermark, Steiermark 2017

Silver, 94 points

Morillon

Refined and subtly aromatic nose, marked by cool lemon, rosemary and flinty notes. Lively and elegant to taste, with a compelling texture and a saline edge.

Weingut Andreas Gsellmann, Pannobile Weissburgunder, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland 2018

Silver, 93 points

Pinot Blanc

Rich nose of apricot and peach, with hints of wood smoke and toast. The palate brings well-integrated oak and lively acidity; long, fruit-driven finish.

Domäne Wachau, Ried Achleiten Smaragd Grüner Veltliner, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2019

Silver, 92 points 

Grüner Veltliner

Powerful nose of ripe peach and mango, lifted by honeysuckle and blossom, then a palate showing lovely texture, yellow fruit and driven by zesty acidity.

Malat, Ried Steinbühel 1ÖTW Erste Lage Riesling, Kremstal, Niederösterreich 2017

Silver, 92 points

Riesling

Aromatic and structured, with a nose blessed with rosemary, peach and preserved lemon, then a defined palate underpinned by pronounced acidity before the lime pastille finish.

Weingut Schloss Halbturn, Chardonnay, Burgenland 2015

Silver, 92 points

Chardonnay

Expressive and multi-layered nose, showcasing ripe apricot, beeswax and hazelnuts, before a generous and creamy palate blessed with gingerbread spice, red apple and peach.

Red

Leo Hillinger, Blaufränkisch, Leithaberg, Burgenland 2016

Gold, 95 points

Blaufränkisch

Lovely scents of blackcurrant, mulberry, plum and toast. A wine of true distinction with grainy tannins, sweet ripe fruit and a protracted, spicy finish. Very impressive.

Schloss Halbturn, Imperial Rot, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland 2015

Silver, 93 points

Blaufränkisch, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Structured and ripe, with a black-fruited core of dried figs, plum and cherry, complemented by bell pepper, cooked meats and chocolate.

Umathum, Vom Stein St. Laurent, Burgenland 2013

Silver, 93 points

Saint Laurent

Ageing gracefully, with a smoky nose augmented by dried meats, tobacco and ripe berries. Delicate, silky palate, with mature but ripe fruit, black pepper and oak spice.

Höpler, Blaufränkisch, Burgenland 2017

Silver, 92 points

Blaufränkisch

Characterful and crunchy, with sour cherries, raspberry and cranberry overlaying deeper tones of smoke, nutmeg and game.

Weingut Lentsch, Reserve Zweigelt, Neusiedlersee, Burgenland 2017

Silver, 91 points

Zweigelt

Sleek and polished, with vanilla and sweet spices augmented by dark chocolate and defined fruits including blackcurrants, black cherries and elderberries.

Sweet

Kracher, Cuvée Beerenauslese, Burgenland 2017

Platinum, 97 points

Welschriesling, Chardonnay

Wonderfully plush and structured, with deep aromas of spiced marmalade, barley sugar, apricot jam and dried pears. This fills the mouth with refreshing, serious flavours of honey, tarte tatin and exotic fruits which linger throughout the significant tail.

Umathum, Beerenauslese, Burgenland 2017

Gold, 96 points

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Traminer

Explosive, exotic and rich, with beautiful aromas of candied ginger, starfruit, ripe apricot and caramelised pineapple. In the mouth it’s luscious but fresh, showing candied flowers, mango and papaya.

Lenz Moser, Prestige Beerenauslese, Burgenland 2018

Silver, 94 points

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Samling

Defined and refreshing notes of candied grapefruit, mild spices, peach syrup and dried mango, bound in bright acidity with a floral end.

Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg, Riesling Beerenauslese, Wien 2017

Silver, 93 points

Riesling

Expressive and lively, with citrus curd, dried apricots, dried pear and tangerine peel, with wonderfully defined acidity driving through to the vibrant finish.

Search all DWWA 2020 results

Decanter World Wine Awards home

Results for the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 will be announced this July on Decanter.com

The region by the lake

Located on the northeastern tip of Burgenland, southeast Austria, the Neusiedlersee region borders the ‘Lake Neusiedl’ to the west, with Slovenia and Hungary to the east.

The first record to today’s Neusiedlersee, which covers a part of the political district ‘Neusiedl am See’, can be traced back to 1074 when it was under the Hungarian name ‘Stagnum Ferteu’.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 14 Neusiedlersee wines worth seeking out

Through the centuries, there have been multiple attempts to drain Lake Neusiedl to create farmland.

The borderline of the lake, therefore, receded significantly inland. The extension of the lake played a crucial role in shaping the soil of the region, especially the ‘Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel’ sub-area (see map), which used to be underwater.

Facts about Neusiedlersee*

· Plantings: 6,700ha. 51% the total of Burgenland

· Key varieties: 51% white and 49% red.

Red: 24% Zweigelt, 9.3% Blaufränkisch, 4.2% St Laurent

White: 11.1% Welschriesling, 10.4% Grüner Veltliner, 6.6% Chardonnay, 4.7% Weissburgunder

· Soil: Silty-sandy, quartz-rich gravel, overlain by loam

· Sub-regions:

– North: Neusiedlersee-Wagram. Average altitude ~160m

– South east: Neusiedlersee-Heideboden. Average altitude ~ 120m

– South west by the lake: Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel. Average altitude ~ 120m

· Key viticultural towns: Gols, Mönchhof, Halbturn, Podersdorf, Frauenkirchen, Illmitz, Apetlon, Andau.

· DAC/DAC Reserve: Established in 2012 for single varietal Zweigelt. From 2020 it also covers sweet white wines (Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese as ‘Reserve’).

*Source: Neusiedlersee DAC, Geological Survey of Austria, Wine Austria

Location and climate

As one of the sunniest spots in Austria, Neusiedlersee enjoys over 300 days of sunshine per year.

Blessed by its natural beauty, the lakeside region was awarded World Heritage sites status by UNESCO in 2001.

At the heart of the ‘Pannonian’ climate zone, Neusiedlersee enjoys hot, dry summers and cold, snowless winters, allowing red wine grapes to ripen fully with condensed flavours.

Compared to Leithaberg DAC on the west bank of Lake Neusiedl, the moderating effect of the lake is more apparent in Neusiedlersee, as the wind blows north-westernly.

The lake’s large water surface, combined with small to medium-sized salt and soda basins dotted in the southern part of the region, ensures cooling nights so the grapes can retain a good level of acidity.

Meanwhile, the region’s foggy autumns encourage the development of noble rot, nurturing a range of premium sweet whites that have put the Seewinkel subregion on the map.

However, what truly makes the Neusiedlersee region special is its natural water source.

‘The composition of the groundwater is quite unique,’ said Torsten Aumüller, managing director of Neusiedlersee DAC, ‘(There is) a high content of Graubensalz (Na₂SO₄), Kochsalz (NaCl) and especially Speisesoda (NaHCO₃), which favours the development of alcaic salt & soda basins – especially in the Neusiedlersee-Seewinkel sub-area.’

The groundwater differs from other regions because of the underground mineral water lake, added Aumüller. The underground lake, discovered by the locals in 1955, is the biggest of its kind in central Europe (250km²).

‘On the ground surface, Lake Neusiedl is also a salt-bearing lake, with 1/20 of the salinity of the Mediterranean sea.’

The salinity in water is believed to be linked to the slight salty tone in wines produced in the area, according to the regional body.

The Zweigelt homeland

In 2012, the Neusiedlersee DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) was established for single-varietal red wines made from the Zweigelt grape variety.

A ‘Reserve’ category was also set up to merit those with over 18 months of ageing in oak (large or small).

As with the DAC, Zweigelt is also relatively ‘young’ in the wine world.

The red grape, then named ‘Rotburger’, was created by Dr Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 by crossing Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent.

Half a century later, it was renamed after its creator and gradually became the most widely planted red wine grape in Austria.

Now the country has 6,426ha of the versatile red grape, accounting for 13.8% of Austria’s total land under vines.

Burgenland and Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) hold the highest concentration of plantings.

Zweigelt certainly adapts well to the sunny lakeside region, responsible for opulent single-varietal reds of violet colour, spiced black cherry fruits, soft tannins and a fine line of acidity.

With more quality-centric winemaking and extended ageing, with or without the use of oak, it can also put on more muscles and complexity.

The fruity red is also a common blending partner to local and international varieties.

Different from other Zweigelt strongholds such as Carnuntum DAC of lower Austria and Rosalia DAC of Burgenland, Neusiedlersee DAC tends to merit ‘darker, sweeter and mellow’ fruit flavours, said Aumüller.

Top sites and producers

Besides premium sweet whites ranging from Spätlese to noble rot versions, the still-youthful DAC is keen to establish a specialist reputation for Zweigelt.

‘Starting with around 56 winemakers in 2012 (first vintage 2011), now there are more than 110 winemakers producing, bottling and promoting Zweigelt as Neusiedlersee DAC and/or Neusiedlersee DAC Reserve,’ according to the regional body.

Following a national drive to identify the top terroirs for Austria’s signature varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, producers in Neusiedlersee DAC are also in constant search for the best single vineyards (marked on the label as ‘Ried’) for Zweigelt.

‘I like very much Ried Ungerberg, a site between Weiden am See and Gols,’ said Dirceu Vianna Junior MW.

‘Another site, also in Gols, that is historically well known and has great potential is Ried Salzberg.’

‘Ried Königswiese in Mönchhof will surprise most people as the topsoil is reminiscent of some of the vineyards we see in Châteauneuf du Pape. It is completely covered with large round stones, although these are a little smaller in Austria. These wines can be powerful, full-bodied, display lovely texture, balancing freshness and have the potential to age gracefully.’

 5 Neusiedlersee producers to watch

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW’s top picks:

· Franz Schneider (Artisan Wines)

· Markus Iro

· Christoph Salzl (Salzl Seewinkelhof)

· Markus Lentsch (Lentsch)

· Georg Preisinger

Why is Neusiedlersee DAC worth exploring now?

‘This area has the capability to be recognised as one of the important areas for red wine production in Austria,’ said the MW.

‘It has been historically shunned by critics and in my opinion, it has not been given necessary credit for the quality of its wine. I love the diversity the region can offer. Zweigelt from this area has the potential to become the New Gruner Veltliner story. The variety can make soft and easy-drinking wines for early drinking; it can make serious reds that are age-worthy and perform well in blends.’

See tasting notes and scores for 14 Neusiedlersee wines worth seeking out

Also read:

Austrian Erste Lagen new releases: Top wines reviewed

Austrian dry Riesling: Expert’s choice

Winemaker Josef Möth, of Austria’s Möth winery, said it was impossible to repeat the trial in Lake Constance itself due to regulations but that he was hoping to age more wines underwater at another site.

Ageing wine underwater has become a niche trend around the world over the past decade or so.

Examples include the specialist Crusoe Treasure winery in the Basque region of northern Spain and recent trials by Wapisa winery in Patagonia, Argentina.

Möth took the concept to relative extremes in 2019 when his team submerged 1,000 litres of wine in stainless steel tanks around 60 metres below the surface of Lake Constance – also known as Bodensee.

Ageing wines underwater: 60 metres down

It’s extremely rare to age wine underwater at this depth, said Möth, who became interested in trialling underwater ageing after learning about bottles recovered from shipwrecks.

Other projects have seen wine aged at varying depths, although Möth said most were up to 25 metres.

He said he wanted to try going to 60 metres to help to ensure complete seclusion and a ‘clean habitat’ for the wine tanks, but the pressure and the visibility posed challenges.

‘Under the water it’s unbelievable,’ he said. Divers could only see around one metre in-front of them. ‘You don’t know that five metres behind you or in-front of you are the tanks.’

Even though the team used GPS coordinates and knew where the tanks had been lowered, poor visibility ensured it was touch-and-go when it came to recovering the wines before assembled media last year.

‘Intensification of aromas’

Known as ‘project Tiefenrausch’, the wine-filled tanks were immersed in 2019 and spent more than a year on the sandy lake bed, where temperatures were around five to seven degrees Celsius.

Wines involved included a red made from 80% Zweigelt and 20% Shiraz, and a 100% Chardonnay white wine.

Subsequent tastings, as well as chemical analysis led by oenology expert professor Robert Steidl, showed the wines aged underwater were different from control samples that stayed on the shore, Möth said.

He said of the lake wines, ‘The aromatics are more intense. There is more fruit, they are louder wines.’ He also said he expected the lake wines would age more slowly.

A second experiment, albeit in a different location, could strengthen the case for producing a scientific paper on the results.

Why tanks and not bottles?

Tanks were used instead of bottles due to the intense conditions. ‘If you go down more than 25 metres with normal [still] wine bottles they will explode, because the pressure is too much,’ said Möth.

Bottles intended for some sparkling wines, such as Champagne, are different. Leclerc Briant’s cuvée ‘Abyss’ 2014 was bottle-aged for 18 months at 60 metres under the Atlantic Ocean, and was rated 96 points by Decanter’s Yohan Castaing last year.

Next steps…

The winery has been selling its ‘Tiefenrausch’ red and white lake wines since they resurfaced last year, at €139 (£118) per bottle.

Yet Möth said the privately-funded experiment was not a marketing exercise. ‘It’s the adventure and the team experience. That’s why we do it, not for the money.’

The team has been ‘searching other lakes in our country’ for possible new test sites. ‘We have something in mind,’ he said.

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Although Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s leading white variety, Riesling plays an important role too, with 2,000ha planted, compared to Veltliner’s 14,000ha. At its best, Riesling from Austria is as complex and stylish as top examples from Germany, Alsace or Australia. The Austrians know that it only delivers outstanding wines when planted on dry, stony terraces that enhance exposure to precious sunlight.

Its heartland is the Danube valley west of Vienna. Some of those regions, such as Wagram, are better suited to Grüner Veltliner as their loess soils ideally suit the variety. But parts of Kamptal and Kremstal, and almost all of the Wachau, are brilliant territories for dry Riesling, sharing outcrops of weathered primary rock, including sandstone, schist and gneiss. The large Weinviertel region north of the Danube also has pockets that are good for Riesling, but few examples leave Austria.

The Austrian wine authorities have created an appellation system: DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus). It seeks to define the most typical wines for each region: for example, both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling can claim DAC status in Kamptal. The system matters little to wine lovers outside Austria, except to note that when the alcohol level is 13% or above, a grower can call the wine a Reserve. Some do, but others don’t bother. In the tasting notes that follow, some wines are technically Reserves but not identified as such.

The Wachau has its own system, introduced in 1983 by the growers’ association Vinea Wachau. Its three tiers reflect ripeness levels: Steinfeder is the most basic, Federspiel intermediary, then Smaragd, with a minimum alcohol of 12.5%. Thanks to global warming, Steinfeder is an endangered species, but Federspiel can be refreshing and delicious and is not necessarily an inferior product to a Smaragd, though the latter should offer the ripeness, structure and force to which a Federspiel doesn’t aspire.

Exacting standards

A recent innovation is the inclusion of the word Ried to designate a single vineyard. Many regions on the Danube are also part of the Erste Lage classification that seeks to identify the most revered vineyards. However, this is in effect a private club, so the classification has no legal standing. Such sites are not identified in the notes below.

The use of the term ‘minerality’ has come under fire in recent years. While vine roots may well be incapable of transporting mineral elements in the soil into grapes themselves, some wines do tempt one to invoke the term. I do so myself to characterise a blend of acidity, steeliness, perceptible grain and extract as well as other characteristics in contrast to simple fruitiness and opulence. Some wines marry the two. Nonetheless, the primary rock soils on which Austria’s best Rieslings are grown often convey a distinct mineral cut.

If much of the Wachau is ideal for Riesling, in Kamptal only a few sites are capable of producing outstanding versions, and these include Heiligenstein and Gaisberg. The Kremstal is slightly more complicated. Krems, and its westerly extension of Stein, abut the Wachau, and the steep, terraced sites behind the towns – such as Pfaffenberg – are perfect for Riesling. Further inland, away from the Danube’s moderating influence, is the Senftenberg area, decidedly hilly and rich in primary rock. The main producers here are Nigl and Proidl, and the wines tend to have more power, tension and longevity than those from the Krems area.

Winemaking standards in Austria are extremely high. Austrians are well-off and well educated, exacting wine lovers with little tolerance for mediocrity. Regrettably, many excellent producers have had to be omitted here, though their wines rival those recommended below.

Stephen Brook’s top 30 Austrian dry Riesling

See also: 

Austria’s Wachau region awarded DAC status

Austrian Erste Lagen new releases: Top wines reviewed

German Grosses Gewächs 2020 releases: Top wines

Just as the Gros family seems ubiquitous in Vosne-Romanée, and most of the mansions along the Mosel River in Wehlen are occupied by various branches of the Prüm family, so the Wachau is home to numerous Pichlers.

FX Pichler is the best known, and he certainly was a leading presence among the generation that put the region on the map for great white wines. But Rudi Pichler also has a strong following.

Born in 1964, he is from the next generation and took over his family’s property in Wösendorf in 1996. Now in his prime, he is assisted by his children. Among his 15ha of vineyards are varying soil types and thus expressions of the varieties cultivated.

Their overall geological pattern remains typical of the Wachau. The higher slopes are composed of shallow soils over primary rocks such as gneiss, while lower down nearer the Danube shore there may be loess deposits too. It’s the primary rock that gives the wines their character, steeliness and tension. Pichler keep yields low, at 35hl/ha to 45hl/ha, as it would be tricky to ripen a larger crop in some of his cooler sites.

Behind the winery is the Kollmütz vineyard, which Pichler considers a top site – although he is understandably biased. The terraces round the corner of a hill, so it’s always breezy here, fending off threats of disease. There is gneiss and magnesium in the soil, and the vines develop a good root system, giving mineral wines that can age very well. Geologically, the site is not uniform, as the eastern end of the site has loess, while the west is rockier.

Loess dominates in the Kamptal region, but is less prevalent in the Wachau. However, Wösendorfer Hochrain has a subsoil of wind-blown loess, giving a silty, sandy soil of moderate density. Loess is generally better suited to Grüner Veltliner, but Pichler also makes a fine Riesling from here. The wines tend to be opulent and juicy rather than grippy and mineral.

Between Hochrain and Kollmütz is the Kirchweg, with its more alluvial soils. Pichler is at pains to point out that despite the general flatness of Kirchweg, his parcel is on rockier soil, giving a more severe character than the site in general.

Few would dispute, however, that if the Wachau had a hierarchy of crus, then Achleithen in Weissenkirchen would be grand cru. Indeed, the viticulturalist at the Domäne Wachau cooperative considers this the finest vineyard site in all of Austria. Pichler has almost 2ha here in five parcels on very rocky soils with gneiss. His parcel differs from most others here in facing west, giving wines with a firmer and more austere structure.

Rudi Pichler has quite a pungent, assertive character and probably doesn’t suffer fools gladly. Although he has mellowed over recent years, he remains a formidable personality, confident in his approach but more frequently allowing a smile to cross his stern features.

He also has a very clear idea, stylistically, of how he wants his wines to turn out. His vineyards often ripen a week later than some more privileged sites, but he believes this gives the wines a finer bouquet. Some top winemakers in the Wachau will tolerate a few grams of residual sugar to round out the palate, but Pichler does all he can to ensure that his wines ferment to full dryness. And if that means the wines can initially seem rather austere and unyielding, he accepts that as a stylistic signature, advising his clientele to be patient.

‘I want the balance of my wines to be achieved in the vineyard, not by manipulations in the winery,’ he explains. However, very hot recent vintages have given his wines a rounder, plumper profile than in the past, another consequence of global warming.

Rather surprisingly, he’s keen on giving the newly picked grapes some skin contact. ‘I remember from my childhood seeing the old wooden presses that gave a natural maceration. I believe a spell of maceration gives the wines greater typicity in terms of their origin,’ he explains.

‘The duration depends on the vintage. In cool 2010 I gave the wines 36 hours, but in very warm years the duration is minimal, especially with grapes grown on loess, as the wines would end up too plump. I also dislike extended lees contact which can lead to wines that are simply too broad.’

Pichler also produces what has become something of a rarity in the Wachau: a Smaragd wine from Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc); it’s from 45-year-old vines and is consistently excellent and structured. He also has the only Roter Veltliner vines in the region. Unrelated to Grüner Veltliner, it’s a variety more widely planted in Wagram to the east. Pichler’s Smaragd has typicity, and this is invariably a wine with an exotic character, but it can be marred by high alcohol.

Rudi Pichler Wines

Following a lengthy campaign to officially protect and recognise its wines the Wachau region in northern Austria has been named as the country’s newest – and fifteenth – DAC winegrowing region.

Austria’s Ministry of Agriculture, Regions and Tourism awarded the 1,300 ha region the status last week and its wines will now bear the protected designation of origin ‘Wachau DAC’.

‘With the Wachau, we can now welcome another important member to Austria’s DAC family,’ says Chris Yorke, Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB). ‘In doing this, Austria’s wine industry has taken a further step on the path of origin-based marketing. This has proven itself effective for 17 years now, and has also become recognised internationally.’

The DAC carries three tiered levels within its structure: Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (‘village’ wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine). Each level carries specific rules with all levels requiring hand-harvesting.

The region will retain its Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd categories which were developed in the 1980s to differentiate between the natural alcohol levels of white – and in rare cases rosé – wines. ‘This well-known and valuable classification will be retained within the new DAC system,’ says the AWMB.

The origin pyramid

Looking at the three levels within the new DAC, the Gebietswein category focusses on the traditional array of grape varieties where 17 white and red varieties ranging from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling to Muskateller and Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Noir and Sankt Laurent are permitted. Gemischter Satz and cuvées are also allowed. These wines will bear the name of the region coupled with DAC on the label. The grapes can come from anywhere in the entire winegrowing region Wachau.

Ortswein is becoming increasingly important in Austria’s landscape of origins, and the Wachau also provides for 22 designated municipalities, protected in its DAC regulation. The number of approved grape varieties is concentrated here to nine: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Chardonnay, Neuburger, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer. These must be vinified as monovarietal wines.

At the top level on the pyramid of origins is Riedenwein. The most famous Wachau grape varieties Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are permitted here, harvested from 157 precisely defined vineyard sites (Rieden). Wachau DAC wines bearing the indication of a Ried on the label must not be enriched or chaptalised in any way and – like Ortswein – must exhibit hardly any noticeable cask influence, or none at all.

Wachau DAC: The facts

Levels & permitted grape varieties:

• Gebietswein: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Chardonnay, Neuburger, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Frühroter Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Muskat Ottonel, Roter Veltliner, Gemischter Satz, Pinot Noir, Sankt Laurent, Zweigelt, or cuvées blended from them

• Ortswein: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Chardonnay, Neuburger, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc or Traminer

• Riedenwein: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling

Production & flavour profile:

• Harvesting by hand mandatory on all levels

• Ortswein: little or no perceptible cask tone

• Riedenwein: chaptalisation forbidden; little or no perceptible cask tone

The categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd remain in use.

Consumer clarity

It’s hoped that the new system will help consumers to benefit from greater transparency and specificity of provenance within the Wachau.

‘This brings origins to the forefront. Wachau DAC provides geographical protection of origin down to the most detailed entity: the individual vineyard,’ explains Anton Bodenstein, chairman of the Wachau Regional Wine Committee.

The Erste Lagen is a selection of wines from high-quality vineyards chosen by the members of the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter. This is a private growers’ association, modelled on Germany’s long-established VDP group, that over recent decades has created a vineyard classification to single out top growths (Grosses Gewächs). Until this year the OTW was focused solely on Lower Austria and its vineyards.

Like the VDP classification, the Erste Lagen have no official status, and only members of the OTW may use the logo that identifies a top site. Few would dispute that the members have made a conscientious effort to seek out the best sites, although there is always a slight suspicion that it may be tempting to reward one’s own favoured vineyard at the expense of some neighbours’.Each year the OTW presents Erste Lage wines for the press and for sommeliers to taste and assess.

The ultimate goal will be to isolate from the Erste Lagen the Grosse Lagen, roughly translatable as Grands Crus. This selection is still a work in progress and will inevitably be contentious. Tasters are requested to score each wine so as to indicate which sites appear to perform best across the board. As a broad generalisation, sites with loess or loam soils are ideal for Grüner Veltliner, while sites with primary rock are ideal for Riesling. But of course it’s not a clear-cut rule.

At the same time the project aims to map vineyards within each village, since in the past some boundaries between sites were never precisely defined. The designation of Erste Lage (and eventually Grosse Lage) status will require some official delineation of where one site ends and another begins. For OTW chairman Michael Moosbrugger and other promoters of Erste Lagen, this is a crucial aspect of the project. The 2019 event proved of particularly interest as for the first time wines from newly classified vineyards in Vienna and in the nearby Carnuntum region were presented for tasting.

Scroll down to see the top scoring Erste Lage recommendations

See the top 40 wines tasted here

The Erste Lage classification as a whole runs in parallel with the official DAC system, which seeks to identify the most representative varieties from each Austrian wine region. Thus in Wagram, the DAC is only granted to wines from Riesling or Grüner Veltliner, and thus there is no DAC for another admired local variety, Roter Veltliner. The same is true of Erste Lagen, which recognises the same two varieties.

But the systems do differ. DAC focuses on typicity and stylistic criteria, and, indeed, quality, whereas the Erste Lagen reward soil, elevation, and so forth. Equally important, the Erste Lage is a private system that inevitably merges with a marketing strategy.

The wines shown at the Schloss Grafenegg tasting event were from 2018 in the case of white wines (and a few 2017s), and 2017 for the Carnuntum reds. 2017 was a fine vintage for red wines, with a hot summer and some refreshing rainfall in September that helped the grapes to ripen fully. Moreover, yields were generous.

2018 was more problematical for white grapes, as an extremely hot dry summer led to the earliest harvest in memory. For growers the crucial decision was when to harvest. Pick too early and there could be some greenness. Pick too late, and acidities could have plummeted. Nonetheless many excellent wines were made, alongside wines that are decidedly flabby and lack persistence. As in 2003, the most prestigious sites did not necessarily produce the best wines in 2018, as their ideal exposition could be too much of a good thing in a torrid year.

For these vintages an amendment to the Austrian wine law requires that single vineyards be identified by the term ‘Ried’, as in ‘Ried Gaisberg’. This is to ensure there is no confusion with a fantasy name such as ‘Titan’ or ‘Lyra’.

Riesling & Grüner Veltliner: Stephen’s top Erste Lagen picks

See the top 40 wines tasted here

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Grüner Veltliner whites from premium regions around Austria

Scroll down to see the tasting notes & scores

The verdict

This was a comprehensive tasting, focusing on specific regions where Grüner Veltliner is grown. There was a flight of wines from Lower Austria, which were mostly blends from various regions. Basic and inexpensive, they were nevertheless fresh and well made.

‘GV can be enjoyed for its youthful zest, or in its more complex old age’

All three tasters agreed there was a sameness in profile and quality to the wines from Wagram, probably because the grapes are generally grown on deep loess soils. Such terroir gives an open fruitiness rather than deep structure, so tasted one after the other it was hard to detect nuances. But they had consistently good fruit and would give considerable pleasure in the short to medium term.

In Kamptal and Kremstal we were into more serious territory. Kamptal too has many loess and loam sites, but also primary rock vineyards such as Heiligenstein that can produce mineral and long-lived wines. Stefan Neumann MS preferred the Kamptal wines: ‘They had great purity, and the Reserves were generally excellent.’ The other tasters preferred the Kremstal wines overall – its diverse terroirs bring diverse styles, though they seemed to Stephen Brook and Peter Honneger to show more focused and mineral wines.

Quick link: See all 104 wines in the panel tasting

‘Reserves’ are a fairly recent innovation, and one that Neumann had his doubts about. ‘I don’t think quality should be defined by ripeness and alcohol levels, and while many growers put their best efforts into the Reserve wines, they shouldn’t automatically be considered superior to wines with less power. Sometimes they just seem an excuse for the growers to charge more for supposedly superior quality.’

The argument was extended into the Wachau, acknowledged as the source of the mightiest GVs, mostly grown in terraced primary-rock sites overlooking the Danube. ‘When the growers created the Smaragd style over 30 years ago to indicate the ripest and most concentrated wines, an alcohol level of 12.5% or 13% was considered fully ripe,’ said Neumann. ‘Today, many Smaragd wines come in at 14% or 14.5%. You can say it’s to do with global warming, but it’s also, I think, a stylistic choice.’

Honegger concurred. ‘Today Smaragd wines can come from lower slopes, simply because it’s become easier to achieve the high ripeness that qualifies the wines for Smaragd status. So there’s a range of styles from the overripe and over-alcoholic to the more energetic and mineral wines. It’s a trend shaped by domestic demand. Austrian drinkers love the big super-ripe styles, even though they can obliterate the terroir that the Wachau is celebrated for.’ Neumann agreed, but added: ‘The Wachau still shines for the freshness, poise and balance of the best wines, though I also think that they show best at between 13% and 13.5%.’

All the tasters lamented the Austrian predilection for wines that can be drunk on release. Neumann argued: ‘Smaragds should need five years in bottle to develop complexity, and the same for Reserve wines from Kamptal and Kremstal. But today the wines seem to be fashioned to round out their minerality so as to give wines that are immediately accessible. That’s a shame.’

Almost all the wines in the tasting were from the hot 2017 vintage, which also skewed our appreciation. The bracing acidity of which GV is capable may be more evident in a cooler vintage. But the tasting did show the versatility of the variety: from crisp and lively to powerful and structured.

The scores

104 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly Recommended 37

Recommended 61

Commended 3

Fair 3

Poor 0

Faulty 0

See all 104 wines from this panel tasting

About Austrian Grüner Veltliner

Affectionately known as GV and by far the country’s most widely planted grape, this Austrian white speciality has risen rapidly in prominence and rightly so.

Some grape varieties – red Petit Verdot being a typical example – tend to have a single expression. Others, such as Chardonnay or Riesling, are infinitely varied: Chardonnay can be manipulated easily by winemakers, Riesling offers stylistic variations ranging from bone-dry to ultra-sweet.

Grüner Veltliner falls into the latter camp, which may explain why it has only recently attracted the attention it deserves. Like Riesling, it responds to the soils on which it is grown: in Austria, from loess to primary rock. Stylistically too, there can be some variation; usually vinified dry, it can in its Reserve category display some residual sugar, and ice wines are quite common in northern Austria’s Weinviertel region.

In some regions, such as Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, it can produce powerful, bone-dry wines with remarkable ageing potential. Elsewhere it can offer an easygoing quaffing wine. With friends in Vienna back in the 1970s, our principal beverage was a litre bottling of Weinviertel Grüner Veltliner trundled back to the flat on a trolley in industrial quantities for our weekly consumption. It wasn’t a great wine, but it was refreshing and moreish and quenched our thirst through long evenings.

Gaining ground

Blind tastings in 1998 and 2002 pitted more serious examples against the finest Chardonnays, and when Grüner Veltliners took the top rankings, the wine world began to take notice. Austrians had long known of the variety’s versatility and potential. Bottlings from good sites from the 1970s could clearly age for 20 years or more, even with the high yields common in that decade. Not that it was truly necessary to cellar them. Like many dry white wines, Grüner Veltliner can be enjoyed for its youthful zest as well as in its more complex old age. But its international reputation, once close to zero, soared.

It’s the most commonly planted variety in the Weinviertel, an enormous region that stretches northwards to the Czech border. The somewhat restrictive DAC wine regulations insist that any wine from here labelled as DAC must be from Grüner Veltiner, although other varieties can thrive here too. These are essentially dry wines with high acidity, although the size and diversity of the region means that styles can and do vary.

Grüner Veltliner seems to flourish close to the Danube – it’s not a prominent variety in the warmer Burgenland, for example – and there are excellent examples from the Traisental south of the river and, facing it on the north bank, the Wagram region. In Wagram the variety grows mostly on terraces on loess soils, giving supple, spicy wines that are best drunk relatively young, although the best will age.

Then to the west lies Kamptal, renowned for its primary-rock Heiligenstein site as well as richer loess soils; Kremstal, which has a similar mix; and the Wachau, with its terraced vineyards overlooking the Danube. The Wachau wines are the steeliest of all, especially the Smaragd style, which requires high levels of ripeness but still gives an essentially dry style.

White pepper is the marker for Grüner Veltliner, and many wines do indeed exhibit that character, but by no means all. Indeed, in my experience, a Grüner Veltliner Smaragd can be hard to differentiate from a Riesling Smaragd because of the high levels of extract and minerality, although keener palates may distinguish more easily.

Austrian Grüner Veltliner: The facts

Total Austrian plantings: (2017) 14,422ha

By region (2015)

Weinviertel 6,967ha

Kamptal 2,018ha

Wagram 1,332ha

Kremstal 1,309ha

Wachau 805ha

Traisental 464ha

Austrian Grüner Veltliner: know your vintages

2018 Similar conditions to 2017, though rain in early September interrupted the harvest, and there was a good crop of full-bodied wines.

2017 A dry, hot summer refreshed by August storms, then an early harvest of elegant, spicy, fruit-forward whites.

2016 Considerable summer rain and some rot at harvest. Yet the whites proved elegant and structured thanks to cooler temperatures than in 2015.

2015 Extensive hail damage in May reduced yields, but a hot summer gave fully ripe and aromatic whites, though some had low acidity.

2014 A dreadful September wrecked hopes of high quality, although some appealing basic Veltliners were made.

2013 A hot and dry summer ended with rainfall before harvest that caused problems and brought down yields. But whites of high quality emerged.

Top Austrian Grüner Veltliner from the panel tasting:

See all of the wines tasted here

The judges

Stephen Brook

Decanter contributing editor Brook is the author of almost 40 books on travel, wine and more, and has won numerous awards for his writing on wine. His works include The Complete Bordeaux, now in its third edition, The Wines of Germany and, most recently published, The Wines of Austria (Classic Wine Library, 2016).

Peter Honegger

Honegger launched specialist importer Newcomer Wines with his partner Daniela Pillhofer in 2014. Initially on-trade only, they opened the Newcomer Wines shop and bar in northeast London in 2016, and now work with growers across Austria, Switzerland, Germany, Czech Republic, Hungary and northern Italy.

Stefan Neumann MS

Austrian-born Neumann is director of wine at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a two-star Michelin restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park. He also previously worked at The Fat Duck in Bray, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons near Oxford, Restaurant Hotel Obauer in Salzburg, and Steirereck in Vienna.

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Austria: Native vines, Distinctive vinesExpert’s Choice: Slovenia & CroatiaTop Vienna restaurants and wine barsBlaufränkisch: Austria’s finest red

It may be a bit tricky to pronounce, but Blaufränkisch has made a name for itself, as Austrian producers explore its potential for quality wines. Stephen Brook introduces a native grape that deserves to have global recognition...

Blaufränkisch – it doesn’t exactly trip off the tongue, does it? No wonder that in the 1990s many Austrian wine estates decided to focus instead on international varieties such as Merlot. Today, however, international varieties are in retreat, as Austrians begin to concur that Blaufränkisch is their country’s finest red.

Scroll down for Stephen Brook’s top Austrian Blaufränkisch buys

This article appears in the September 2018 issue of Decanter magazine, on general sale from 1 August, but is available online exclusively to Premium members.

It’s not exclusive to Austria. In Hungary – which was of course Austrian until 1920 – it’s known as Kékfrankos, and in southern Germany as Lemberger. But the finest expressions of the variety do emerge from Austria, and more specifically, from the Burgenland region southeast of Vienna and hugging the Hungarian border.

As well as its name, Blaufränkisch is hampered, from a marketing and popularity viewpoint, by its lack of clear varietal identity.In this it’s not alone, and grapes such as Syrah or Chardonnay also come in many guises. It’s responsive to soil types, and in the Burgenland these vary from limestone to loam to schist. There are also stylistic variations under the control of the grower and winemaker.

Picked early, Blaufränkisch can deliver bright, zesty sour-cherry aromas and flavours that bear some resemblance to Sangiovese.

Picked late, it produces a weighty, powerful wine with a character that can be further enhanced by oak-ageing.

So it’s perfectly reasonable for producers to release a range of Blaufränkisch wines, from fresh and fruity to more complex and individual styles from single vineyards. Others see it as a blending variety.Only recently have Blaufränkisch specialists taken the route of identifying and vinifying grapes from single vineyards.

They have always known the best sites, and some have been famous for decades, such as Ernst Triebaumer’s Mariental, but the list of acknowledged crus is expanding.

This too presents a challenge for wine enthusiasts, as every Burgundy or Rheingau lover knows. The difficulty is compounded by the fact that the same vineyard name – Goldberg, for instance – can occur in more than one region.

But consumers shouldn’t be put off. For many years Austria’s strength lay in white wines such as Grüner Veltliner or Riesling, and many reds were fairly rustic. But this is no longer the case, even if many Austrian reds struggle in export markets for the reasons already outlined. As with white wines, the quality of reds – especially Blaufränkisch – is very high, and superb examples can be found across the regional and stylistic spectra.

Lake wines

The best-known sector of the Burgenland lies around the Neusiedlersee, a large but very shallow lake that is shared with Hungary. Near the shore the climate is humid, especially in autumn, which is why the region is celebrated for its great sweet wines from Rust and Illmitz.

On the slopes set back from the shore, however, soils and microclimates can excel for Blaufränkisch. Fine single-vineyard wines, as well as blends, come from the area behind Rust, and equally from the warmer slopes located on the opposite side of the lake, behind Gols. Finally, on the northwestern side of the lake is the Leithaberg, a low range of mainly limestone hills. This region has become increasingly acclaimed for the quality and finesse of its Blaufränkisch, which has been awarded appellation status DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus).

The Carnuntum region, which lies east of Vienna and north of Burgenland, is best known for red wines from Zweigelt, but it does include one outstanding Blaufränkisch site: the Spitzerberg. The top of this hill is a nature reserve, but lower down there are almost 200ha of vineyards, about half of which are planted with Blaufränkisch. Most of the fruit went to a cooperative that closed in the late 1990s, so the wines were little known until Dorli Muhr and her then-husband Dirk Niepoort realised the hill could produce exceptionally elegant wines with fine acidity, and successfully revived the Spitzerberg.

The easiest way to track down the best Blaufränkisch wines is to focus on its most dedicated producers rather than try to memorise single-vineyard names. Triebaumer’s Mariental is, in Austria, a legendary wine, but another of his Blaufränkisch wines, from Oberer Wald, is outstanding too, if more overtly fruity and assertive than the effortlessly elegant Mariental. Other consistent growers of high quality on the western side of the lake include Markus Altenburger, Toni Hartl, Prieler and Kollwentz. Hannes Georg Prieler Schuster, another top producer, observes that the sandier soils near the shore can produce concentrated wines with a darker fruit profile, as the microclimate is warmer. In contrast, hillside sites yield more tangy wines with higher acidity. Both styles have merit, but the varying terroir results in different expressions of the grape.

On the eastern shore, it’s hard to go wrong with producers such as Paul Achs, Gernot Heinrich, Juris, Hans Nittnaus and Umathum. Growers on either side of the lake often own vineyards on the Leithaberg too. Here the limestone soils give some of Burgenland’s most refined Blaufränkisch. Altenburger explains: ‘Leithaberg limestone gives structure, salinity and length.’ However, there are exceptions. Andi Kollwentz makes superb single-vineyard wines from Leithaberg that are barrique-aged and powerful. He explains: ‘I want to make long-lived wines, so I opt for long macerations, and up to two years in oak.’ It’s a style that could be overbearing, but the Kollwentz family has made consistently excellent wines for decades.

Power house

Head south from the lake and you soon come to the compact Mittelburgenland region, which is mostly planted with Blaufränkisch and produces DAC wines. Here the moderating influence of the lake is far less pronounced, and the slopes on which the vineyards are located are on richer loam and clay soils that give more overtly powerful wines. Here and there are outcrops of limestone, schist and gravel. The wines may lack the refinement of examples from Rust or Leithaberg, but they have impressive richness and weight. For those seeking full-bodied, black-fruited red wines, this is an excellent source.

Mittelburgenland wines can sometimes be cumbersome, but the vineyards are more elevated than around the lake, and the nights are cooler, which conserves acidity. That elevation, and the water-retentive nature of the soils, gives the wines their quality and freshness, according to top growers such as Franz Reinhard Weninger. He explains: ‘The Mittelburgenland grapes ripen one to two weeks later than those on the Leithaberg, and we don’t get much influence from the lake. We end up with wines with higher acidity and more ageing potential and structure. Unfortunately, some growers used to manipulate the wines by using concentrators and de-acidification. What I, and many other producers want, is Blaufränkisch that has structure, but also freshness and finesse.’

Weingut Moric’s Roland Velich, who makes grandiose single-vineyard wines from here, agrees. ‘Super-rich, oaky styles designed to please the Austrian fondness for super-ripe, opulent wines distort what we can do with our microclimate and long growing season: namely wines with acidity and elegance,’ he says.

Other top names from the Mittelburgenland are Albert Gesellmann, Silvia Heinrich and Kirnbauer. Some of the single-vineyard wines are barrique-aged, but the wines usually have the heft to absorb some new wood. Many excellent examples come from sites such as Dürrau, Goldberg and Hochberg, and the overall quality of winemaking is high, although over-extraction and over-oaking can still be a problem.

Hochberg in the village of Neckenmarkt is the source of the new Reunion range created by the local cooperative and Gerhard Kracher, who is better known for his sensational sweet wines from Illmitz. There are two Reunion wines, a basic selection called Passion, and the more structured, new-oaked Vision. ‘It’s easy to get opulence in the Mittelburgenland,’ says Kracher, ‘but we’re also looking for finesse.’

Schist style

The Südburgenland also hugs the Hungarian border, but the terrain is more varied and a good deal of white wine is produced here too, often on loam soils. The best or most characterful Blaufränkisch here is planted on schist, and this section has its own DAC appellation: Eisenberg, a name that refers to the iron content in the soil. Many vineyards are very steep, so here too elevation (or the lack of it) plays an important role in the style of the wines. Krutzler and Uwe Schiefer have long been the top producers, but their eminence is now being challenged by younger winemakers such as Mathias Jalits and Christoph Wachter of Wachter-Wiesler. Krutzler’s wines are often very powerful and dense, while those from Schiefer, frequently aged in 500-litre barrels to tone down the oak influence, are more delicate and complex.

Personally, I enjoy the subtlety and personality of the Eisenberg wines. Julia Wachter, younger sister of Christoph, believes those qualities derive from the schist soils that give elegance, salinity and less weight than in Blaufränkisch that’s grown on loam. Altenburger also finds that schist gives a darker fruit profile. Michael Wenzel, who admittedly is based in Rust, particularly relishes the floral character and the acidity of Blaufränkisch grown on limestone, and he finds that ‘schist gives less complex and more neutral wines, and there’s a risk that the grapes can ripen too quickly on those stony soils’.

Clearly, Blaufränkisch comes in so many guises that it can defy generalisations. At one end of the spectrum are not just the basic fruit-forward wines such as Hans Nittnaus’ dependable Kalk und Schiefer but light, perky wines, such as Manila from Martin Nittnaus, that are intended to be drunk lightly chilled. The limestone Leithaberg and the schist-based Eisenberg give middle-weight wines, while some of the weightier styles come from around Gols or from Mittelburgenland. Winemaking choices play a crucial role too, especially harvesting dates and the amount of oak-ageing to which the wine is subjected.

Stylistic diversity isn’t necessarily a sign of quality. Acceptable styles of, say, Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, don’t allow much room for divergence. But in the case of Blaufränkisch it’s an advantage, offering wine lovers a range of interpretations and flavour profiles. Prices for the top wines have been rising steadily, suggesting strong demand, even if mostly local, and an appreciation of the heights to which Blaufränkisch can rise.

Stephen Brook is an awarded author and has been a Decanter contributing editor since 1996

See Stephen Brook’s top Austrian Blaufrankisch buys

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A glass of wine or a pint of beer can help your creative juices flowing, suggests research from Austria.

For years, writers have claimed that there is a positive link between drinking and creativity.

Now, researchers from the University of Graz might have found a scientific proof to back the anecdotal theory that wine can solve writer’s block.

A study published in Consciousness & Cognition by Dr Mathias Benedek examined the effects of ‘mild alcohol intoxication’ on creative cognition.

The experiment saw 89 participants solve creativity-measuring tasks after beer consumption. Some of them were given alcoholic beer, while others drank alcohol-free one, which they could not distinguish.

Each participant from the alcohol-consuming group had to reach the level of mild intoxication, which meant the concentration of alcohol in blood of 0.03% – or 30mg of alcohol in every 100ml of blood. That’s less than half the drink-drive limit in England, for example.

Then they had to complete a word association task, such as finding a link between seemingly unrelated words like ‘cottage’, ‘blue’ and ‘cake’.

The participants who drank alcohol proved to be more likely to guess that the correct answer was ‘cheese’.

The drinkers also performed slightly better in tasks measuring creative thinking, where they had to come up with as many creative uses as they could for common objects like swing or umbrella.

The study also found that alcohol consumption leads to limited ‘cognitive control’, which might be often a hurdle in solving creative tasks.

‘Alcohol may particularly play a role in mitigating fixation effects,’ said Dr Benedek in the journal article. ‘In creative problem solving, problems can often only be solved after a restructuring of the problem representation.’

‘When initial solution attempts get on the wrong track, this can cause blocks to immediate problem solving, which is known as mental fixation. Alcohol may reduce fixation effects by loosening the focus of attention.’

Dr Benedek cautioned that the findings were not an invitation to drink excessively to boost creativity.

‘Beneficial effects are likely restricted to very modest amounts of alcohol, whereas excessive alcohol consumption typically impairs creative productivity,’ he said in the study write-up.

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Best known for Grüner Veltliner, Austria also makes world class Riesling and some intriguing reds thanks to its collection of enviable terroirs...

North-east

Austria’s main white grapes are Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, grown mostly in the region of Niederösterreich in the north-east corner of the country around Vienna. This region is home to the country’s most famous white wine producing zones – Kamptal, Kremstal, Wachau, Wagram and Weinviertel.

East

The main red grapes are Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, which both tend to prefer the eastern stretch of the country in the region of Burgenland, which sits around the huge Lake Neusiedl.

South-east

Steiermark (or Styria) in the south-east is home to international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. They can have a distinct fragrant quality that marks them out as specific to the region.

Read more about Austrian wine in our supplement, free with the March 2017 issue of Decanter magazine, on sale now.

Austrian wine styles:

Austrian Grüner Veltliner

Decanter's Tasting team pick out some Austrian Grüner Veltliner you really should try...

About Austrian Riesling & wines to try

Germany may get the lion's share of praise, but Austria is hot on its heels when it comes to producing

Austrian wine key terms:

1ÖTW

Unofficial ‘premier cru’ classification for 52 of the best single vineyard sites (‘erste lage’) in Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental and Wagram. It is only used by 23 wineries who are members of the Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter.

Alte Reben

German for ‘old vine’.

DAC

The Austrian equivalent of the French AOC. The first DAC region was introduced in 2003. It has yet to be approved for the Wachau region, so winemakers there have created their own unofficial quality system.

Federspiel

The second quality wine category for the Wachau region, requiring wines to be between 11.5% and 12.5% ABV.

Klassik (or Classic)

An unofficial term used to reflect wines that have medium alcohol levels, show varietal typicity and do not demonstrate any obvious oak

characteristics.

Loess

A yellow coloured soil with a very fine sediment that can be found in most of Austria’s wine regions. Grüner Veltliner in particular thrives in this soil.

Reserve

An official term permitted for wines in the DAC system that are at least 13% ABV and can be aged for longer.

Smaragd

The equivalent of a Reserve style and the highest quality category specific to the Wachau region, with a minimum alcohol requirement of 12.5% ABV.

Steinfeder

The lightest quality wine category for the Wachau region, requiring wines to be no more than 11.5% ABV.

Austria's flagship grape, Grüner Veltliner, offers wine drinkers something unique. Grown most successfully on steep vineyards overlooking the Danube, it can reach world-class standards of quality but also offers easy-drinking value at the other end of the scale...

Austrian Grüner Veltliner to try:

• Back to Austrian wine style guide

Germany may get the lion's share of praise, but Austria is hot on its heels when it comes to producing world-class Riesling...

Riesling’s second most important habitat after the Rhine is the Danube, and in particular the Lower Austrian regions of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal.

The terraced vineyards of the Wachau are pre-eminent, with 16% of Austria’s vineyard surface planted to Riesling. In its steep, thin, rocky soils and with cool temperatures, they are aromatic, distinguished, lean, dry and mineral.

Scroll down to see our top Austrian Riesling picks

The more loamy soils of neighbouring Kremstal are home to slightly gentler and plumper Rieslings, while the grands crus of Gaisberg and Heiligenstein in the Kamptal can produce elegant, complex dry wines.

‘Riesling expresses greater differences in microclimates and in soils than other grapes,’ says Willi Bründlmayer, one of Austria’s top exponents of the variety. ‘The average Austrian drinker prefers Riesling dry.’

Top growers of Austrian Riesling:

Bründlmayer

Emmerich Knoll

FX Pichler

Franz Hirtzberger

Franz Prager

Freie Weingärtner Wachau

Jurtschitsch

Loimer

Martin Nigl

Nikolaihof

Pichler-Krutzler

Rainer Wess

Salomon Undhof

Schloss Gobelsburg

Stadt Krems

From Anthony Rose’s Dry Riesling Guide in the September 2016 issue of Decanter magazine

Austrian Riesling to try:

Back to Austrian wine style guide

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This year's Decanter World Wine Awards and Christie's auction has raised over £50,000 for WaterAid.

Decanter and Wateraid auction at Christie’s

The eleventh annual auction happened Christie’s, King Street on the morning of 10th November. It raised a total of just over £53,000 and proceeds will be given to the WaterAid charity.

Lots included top Bordeaux, Burgundy, Italian reds and Champagne, and bidders were from locations stretching from Norwich to Hong Kong.

White Burgundy, including from Chassagne-Montrachet, Meursault and Chablis, went for £700, above the high estimate of £600, and most of the lots were bought from a bidder in Hong Kong.

One lot of 60 bottles of red Bordeaux, including from Margaux, Saint Estèphe, Pessac-Léognan and St Emilion, went for £850, above the high estimate of £700.

Some lots of mixed Italian reds – ‘a traditionally strong category,’ said David Elswood, international head of wine at Christie’s, went for £750, above the high estimate of £700.

The highest bidding lots of the auction were for 60 bottles of Champagne, a mix of vintage and non-vintage from small growers to Grande Marques, two of which went for £1,000.

Wine lovers can still bid on cases in the online auction, which opens on 5th December and runs until 15th.

Sarah Kemp, managing director of Decanter, said, ‘The auction is an unprecedented chance for enthusiasts to get their hands on some of the best wines, which are not readily available on the high street while helping a great cause.’

Find out more about the wines on auction here.

Decanter and WaterAid

The Decanter World Wine Awards auctions have raised over £500,000 for Wateraid over the years. The 2015 Christie’s auction raised record £60,000. 

Wateraid helps provide clean water and safe toilets for some of the world’s poorest communities.

‘Having visited WaterAid projects in Zambia, I’ve seen first-hand the difference that having safe water and good sanitation can make – these basic resources really do save lives,’ said Kemp.

‘I’m so proud that Decanter magazine can continue to make a difference in some of the world’s poorest and most marginalised communities.’

• Read about Wateraid’s work

Sarah Kemp’s trip to Zambia with WaterAid:

Sarah Kemp’s Zambia diary: Part one

Who'd have thought that corked wine would actually benefit anyone? Well it has.

Sarah Kemp’s Zambia diary: Part two

The Golden Pillow Lodge in Monze, Southern Zambia hasn't seen many visitors clutching Christie's catalogues. Yet the reason for me

Sarah Kemp’s Zambia diary: Part three

Early start to visit Mavwali, a village where WaterAid has helped the community gain access to clean water and 100%

Sarah Kemp’s Zambia diary: Part four

It’s my last day in Zambia. We finally leave Monze, and after days on unmade roads, it's a relief to

Decanter’s trip to Zambia with WaterAid

A new three-tier quality pyramid developed for Austrian Sekt matches - or even surpasses - the standards set by Champagne, according to the country’s Wine Marketing Board.

Over the past two years, the Austrian Sekt Commission has drawn up standards for three quality levels of the country’s sparkling wines: Klassik, Reserve and Große Reserve.

Created in tandem with a committee of winegrowers, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB), Austria’s Chambers of Industry and Commerce and its Ministry of Agriculture, the AWMB says the new legal basis for Austrian Sekt is ‘analagous to that of Qualitätswein’.

Klassik Sekt must come from grape material grown in a single federal state, and must spend a minimum of nine months on the lees, while for Reserve, winemakers must employ the traditional method, using grapes and base wines grown in one state, with at least 18 months’ lees maturation.

For Große Reserve, the grapes must be harvested and pressed in a single wine-growing community, bearing its name as a designation (and that of a single vineyard, if appropriate); it must undergo a minimum of 30 months’ fermentation and bottle maturation, and can only be released at least three years after harvest.

‘The top category in the pyramid is on a par with the highest standards maintained by the world’s leading sparkling wines – such as Champagne or Franciacorta – and, in certain aspects, even surpasses them,’ said the AWMB.

‘These are wines capable of telling the tale of their origins, regardless of whether they are stamped with the freshness of Poysdorf or the minerality of Langenlois, the Pannonian depth of Gols or the vivid aromatics of Gamlitz.’

Further quality criteria governing the base wines used in Sekt production, as well as inspection and monitoring standards, will be developed in the next few months.

2015's Austrian Tasting in London (February 10th) will showcase more than 500 wines from 100 wineries. Most of the winemakers will be there in person, others will be represented by their importers. This year's special tasting will feature Pinot from Austria. TRADE ONLY.

The event is scheduled for February 10th from 10:30 am to 5:00 pm, at the Institute of Directors (116 Pall Mall London SW1 Y5ED), where 100 wineries and 30 importers will be on display. A light lunch will be offered.

Additionally get an insight into the Austrian wine scene and discover Pinot from Austria (Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc) in a special free-poured tasting.

Austrian wine is one of the most interesting phenomena happening in the world right now. The wines are found on every good wine list, are appreciated by wine experts and highly acclaimed by journalists. It is not uncommon to talk of an Austrian wine wonder.

What is it, that makes Austrian wines so special?

A prime reason is a tradition of winemaking, and grapevines have been cultivated in the same viticultural regions to be found in today’s Austria for around 2000 years.

The Austrian vintners and producers have all comprehended how important it is to successfully combine traditional viticulture with modern vinification processes. The motto is, quality without compromise and the result was a very vibrant and active wine culture.

Another significance is the diversity of Austrian wine, from lively, light-bodied examples to monumental, opulent white wines, as well as charming, fruity to full-bodied, red wines with long cellaring potential. Last, but not least, a wide variety of enticing and elegant sweet wines, that are certainly amongst the world’s best.

To register and for further information about the event please contact Caroline Lloyd click here.

General information about Austrian wine, it‘s wine growing regions, facts & figures and the latest can be found on the Austrian Wine homepage. click here.

Written by Decanter

Austria has created a three-tier quality pyramid for its emergent sparkling wine sector to improve its reputation and help consumers to better understand the category.

The new system (pictured above) underlines the growing importance of sparkling wine to Austrian producers.

It was launched this month by the Austrian Sparkling Wine Committee and the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, but is not expected to be officially incorporated into the Austrian Wine Law until spring 2015.

‘There has been growing interest in our sparkling wines, especially after the success achieved with Austria’s quality still wines,’ Benedikt Zacherl, general manager of the 18-month-old Austrian Sparkling Wine Committee, told Decanter.com.

‘Production and exports of our sparkling wines are expected to rise. So the new quality pyramid will help give consumers a clear orientation of the wines and their quality levels.’

Austria produces around 12m bottles of sparkling wine annually and exports up to 2.5m bottles.

The three tiers:

Level One: Guarantees that all grapes and base wines are from Austria and that production takes place in Austria. Maturation on the lees must last at least nine months.

Level Two: Requires that wines undergo the methode traditionnelle process – secondary fermentation in the bottle. The origin of the grapes and base wines must be from one generic wine growing region, such as Lower Austria. Wines must be matured on the lees for at least 18 months.

Level Three: Requires the grapes and the wines, fermented according to methode traditionnelle, to be from a specific community, such as Poysdorf or Langenlois. Wines must be released at least three years after harvest and with no less than 30 months of maturation on the lees.

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Written by Darrel Joseph

Find out about our Decanter World Wine Awards 2014 Austria judging panel with biographies of the Regional Chair Andreas Larsson plus Andreas Wickhoff MW, Antony Moss MW, Caro Maurer MW and Mark Savage MW.

Regional chair: Andreas Larsson

Larsson’s hospitality career started at the age of 16, when he entered chef school. Later, he was attracted by the wine industry and dedicated a great deal of time to visiting the world’s wine regions and tasting thousands of wines. After winning several Best Sommelier of Sweden, Scandinavia and Europe titles, he was crowned Best Sommelier in the World in 2007. Today, Larsson divides his time between the restaurant PM & Vänner in Växjö, Sweden, where he is the wine director (in charge of more than 25,000 bottles and 3,300 references from around the world) and acting as a wine judge, lecturer and consultant around the world.

Judges

Andreas Wickhoff MW

Andreas Wickhoff MW is the managing director of Premium Estates of Austria, an association of the country‘s leading wineries, which he established in 2004. As the coordinator of this selection of growers, Wickhoff mainly promotes the group’s wines and spirits worldwide but also assists in the production process. Prior to settling in Austria, Wickhoff worked as a sommelier and wine buyer in Corsica, France and the USA. He holds degrees in tourism and hotel management from Bad Gleichenberg, Austria, and in food and hospitality management from Martin College in Brisbane, Australia. On receiving his MW in 2012, Wickhoff won four awards for excellence in particular areas of the exam.

Antony Moss MW

Antony Moss MW is director of strategic planning for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET). His current role covers long-term business planning and new product development, and he was previously responsible for the WSET’s textbooks and other education materials. Moss has worked for the company since 2004 and was the author of Wines & Spirits: Looking Behind the Label. Moss joined the wine industry in 1998 as a part-time sales advisor for S.H. Jones in Leamington Spa, and completed his WSET diploma in 2003 while working for Sainsbury’s supermarkets. He won the Austrian wine marketing board’s prize for both his WSET diploma and MW, and he is now a member of the education committee for the Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW), supervising one of their two European second year residential programs.

Caro Maurer MW

Caro Maurer MW is a wine writer based in Bonn, Germany, who currently shares her time between the General-Anzeiger, the daily newspaper in Bonn, and two magazines, Der Feinschmecker (The Gourmet) and the German edition of FINE. With a writing career spanning almost 20 years, Maurer’s previous positions include working as a correspondent in New York and Los Angeles, as a staff editor for the German edition of Forbes magazine, and at Die Welt (The World), a German daily national newspaper. Maurer is also a wine educator, and judges at international wine competitions.

Mark Savage MW

Mark Savage MW was born in Uganda and classically educated at University College, Oxford, where he was also president of the university’s Wine Circle. He gained early wine trade experience with Moët & Chandon, Harrods, OW Loeb & Co, and Tanners before establishing his own business in 1975 after receiving the Vintners Scholarship and the inaugural Champagne Ruinart Bursary in order to research the wine industry in the USA Pacific Northwest. Savage became a Master of Wine in 1980. As owner and managing director of Savage Selection Ltd, he works with about 50 small wine estates in a dozen countries, and has been the UK representative of Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf in St Emilion since 1982. Savage is the author of The Red Wines of Burgundy and an occasional contributor to The World of Fine Wine and The Drinks Business.

Written by John Abbott

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Austrian White over £15 went to Leth, Scheiben Roter Veltliner, Wagram, Niederösterreich 2013 (13.5%)

Tasted against:

• Atzberg, Obere Steilterrassen Grüner VeltlinerSmaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• FJ Gritsch Mauritiushof, Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• Johann Donabaum, Spitzer Point Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• Jurtschitsch, Schenkenbichl Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich 2012
• Lagler, Elisabeth Selection Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• Winzer Krems, Kremser Pfaffenberg Riesling DAC Reserve, Kremstal, Niederösterreich 2012

Profile:

Leth began life with a humble one hectare of vineyards in 1960. Planted by Franz Leth, for 30 years it only supplied the domestic market, but today its plantings stand at 50ha and 70% of its production is earmarked for export.

In 1980 his son, also called Franz, joined the family business. Yet another Franz Leth, came on board in 2006 and it is he who is now winemaker.

Leth focuses primarily on Pinot Noir, Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, but this Trophy is made from the more esoteric Roter Veltliner (no relation to Grüner), a grape, as Leth Jr explains, that is Wagram’s own: ‘Although it accounts for less than 1% of Austria’s planted grapes, it’s one of the oldest varieties in the country and indigenous to Wagram. It’s hard to work with in the vineyard and that’s why it’s never gathered major interest among vintners, but we have a true passion for it.

‘The Scheiben cuvée is from vines that are 50 years or older. As with the best Roter Veltliners, it can age for 20 years or more.’

Written by Decanter

Hear from our Austria Regional Chair Andreas Larsson on which wines to buy, which wines to leave on the shelf and what to keep an eye on from this year's Decanter World Wine Awards....

Austria continues to impress with its high-quality wines in all styles. The best wines are distinctly Austrian – a virtue in today’s increasingly homogenous wine world. Even international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir deliver a unique fresh bite or spicy note that most wine lovers associate with Austria. Our one Trophy from the 2013 vintage and six Golds from 2012 all went to dry whites as these vintages were ideal in giving purity of flavour and combining ripeness with freshness.

What should we buy from here?

Grüner Veltliner is certainly what Austria does best. A wonderful style of wine, ranging from light, fresh and peppery to lush, bold and powerful, always marked by vibrant fruit and a distinct spiciness. It is lovely to enjoy in its youth, even if the best examples have very good cellar potential. It’s also hard to resist the brilliantly mineral Rieslings from Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal, whose mouthwatering freshness and luscious stone fruit characters truly differ from their German or Alsatian counterparts. The red blends from Burgenland performed on a consistent level and all won Silver or Bronze medals.

What should we leave on the shelf?

Varietal reds were a disappointment. Pinot Noir is a fickle variety and even if we saw a few good ones, there was a preponderance of wines with over-ripeness and heavy-handed oak. Cabernet Sauvignon does well in blends, but on its own it’s far from exciting. Even Blaufränkisch, which can perform well as a varietal wine, did much better in the blends this year. Finally, considering the prices that many Styrian Sauvignon Blancs fetch, they should have offered a bit more substance.

What should we keep an eye on?

The best performing varietal red was Sankt Laurent, seducing us with its elegant fruit, gentle spiciness and supple structure. It is still fairly unknown to most consumers but a great alternative to Pinot Noir. Another less known but highly promising variety is the floral, grapey Roter Veltliner that won a Trophy; Zierfandler and Rotgipfler are two other exciting varieties that give quite bold, perfumed wines. Finally, one of the most promising and unique wine styles is the Wiener Gemischter Satz – uniquely Austrian and continuing a remarkable quality resurgence.

Written by Decanter

The picnic basket filled with scrumptious Schmankerl delicacies is ready. The bicycles are geared up for the first tour of the season, and the joy of a warm spring day in an Austrian vineyard can barely be contained!

Austria’s wine growing regions from Vienna to Steiermark and from Donauland to Südburgenland offer endlessly delightful adventures and experiences. All travel tips and advice are available on the “Wine Travels in Austria” platform from the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) at austrianwine.com.

Austrian Wine is ready to be discovered

The warmth of the sun entices the Austrian people to go outside and into nature. This is shown even officially through, amongst others, the figures of Statistik Austria. The blissful months of April, May and June play host to 4.5 million holiday trips – the second highest number after the summer holiday period. So now would be an optimal time to plan, book and enjoy a wine journey on austrianwine.com. Because there are so many things to discover – beginning with a bike or walking tour along the Danube river; the opening of the Viennese Schanigärten sidewalk cafés; a visit to see the Lipizzaner horses in Steiermark and the beautiful nature parks near the Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl). But that isn’t all. For those who are particularly attracted to regional delights and enjoyment on a high level, a wine & pleasure journey is exactly the right thing. This kind of travel is mainly an all-round experience, where wine and pleasure along with nature, culture and attractive places of interest make up a well-rounded holiday.

For some food for the soul, you can take a romantic stroll through the Kellergassen, or cellar lanes, in Niederösterreich, or visit the winery of your favorite producer, or take a walk through the vineyards and then enjoy a hearty Brettljause platter of coldcuts with a glass of good wine in a Buschenschank tavern. Experiencing the opening of the first buds of the vines or the final stages of fermentation of the wines are moments filled with emotion and wonder – which make the holidays truly something special.

“Wine & Travel” made easy

Where, when and how long is a Heurigen or Buschenschank “Ausg´steckt” – open to serve their own wine and food? Which winery has guest rooms? When do regional wineries hold their Weinfrühling – Wine Springtime open-house – together? Where are the places of interest? The answers to these questions and much more can be found on the wine-tourism platform “Wine Travels in Austria” at austrianwine.com. This tool offers the possibility to search for and find interesting points and locations such as winemakers, wines, vinotheques, hotels and restaurants, and to combine them together in one or more travel routes. So, go ahead and plan your wine and pleasure journey, upload photos and videos, rate your target destinations and share it all with other users. Begin your Wine Springtime!

For more information email: info@oesterreichwein.at or visit österreichwein.at

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Written by Decanter

Lake Neusiedl is fringed with charming estates that offer much more than just the famous Ruster Ausbruch, says Stephen Brook. Read his Burgenland travel guide here.

FACT FILE

Planted area 13,840ha across four sub-regions

Main sub-regions Neusiedlersee (7,650ha) is on the northern and eastern sides of Lake Neusiedl. The main grape varieties grown here are Welschriesling and Zweigelt

Neusiedlersee-Hügelland (3,575ha) is on the western side of the lake. The principal varieties are Blaufränkisch, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay.

Quick links:

• My perfect day in Burgenland
• Burgenland: where to stay, eat, shop and relax

The Burgenland is not just a wine region – it’s a holiday destination, with thousands of visitors from Vienna and far beyond congregating on the shores of Lake Neusiedl; and there is plenty of space to absorb them all. The region was part of Hungary until 1921, but many Hungarian traditions, other than culinary, have been lost. Furmint, once a major grape variety here, has only recently been replanted. The local population flaunts the idea of the Burgenland as a wine destination, and the villages surrounding the lake are lined with wineries that are also family homes. Signs invite passers-by to stop, taste and buy, and many of them do exactly that.

You can divide the Burgenland into roughly three zones. East of the lake the land is flat – prime territory for sweet wines, as autumn mists rising from the shallow, reed-fringed Lake Neusiedl provoke botrytis in the vineyards. It’s here that some fabulous, world-class sweet wines are made. On the opposite side of the lake, the shore is protected by a line of hills known as the Leithaberg, which is the source of many excellent red wines from grapes such as Blaufränkisch and St Laurent, while the charming lakeside town of Rust produces both red wines and remarkable sweet wines known as Ruster Ausbruch. Ausbruch has its own rules and traditions, but nowadays it’s difficult for tasters to tell these wines apart from their sweet counterparts on the opposite shore.

Delights of the western shore

Just an hour or so from Vienna, the Burgenland is easy to visit. There are numerous restaurants, B&Bs and hotels, with much of the accommodation aimed at families. Many wineries are open to the public and English is spoken at all the those mentioned below.

Eisenstadt is a good base for visiting the western shore. It was home to the Esterházy family, whose Schloss dominates the town, and for whom Joseph Haydn was court composer. Opposite the Schloss is a vinothek, where you can sample wines from across Burgenland. Next door is the Henrici restaurant, a good spot for refreshments and simple lunches.

Wineries located between Eisenstadt and the lake include Prieler (www.prieler.at) and Moric. The latter (www.moric.at) is the label of Roland Velich, a dedicated Blaufränkisch specialist. Until about 20 years ago, this variety was ­egarded as a workhorse grape, and the Bordeaux varieties were more fashionable. Velich has acquired very old vineyards, which were not valued in the past as yields were too low. But they produce superbly concentrated fruit, and he ages his wines in larger barrels to preserve their individuality: ‘I don’t want to mask their character with new oak.’

Around the lake

Georg Prieler also makes delicious Blaufränkisch in Schützen, the grapes coming mostly from the nearby Leithaberg. It’s a short drive from here to Rust, the prettiest of the Burgenland towns, so it’s worth spending some time here. The Hauptstrasse leads down to the lake, and off to one side are charming little squares and lanes. Many houses on the Hauptstrasse date back to the 16th century and double as wineries, such as Feiler-Artinger (www. feiler-artinger.at), which produces sensational Ausbruch as well as impressive red wines. Wenzel (weinbau.wenzel@utanet.at), a few doors away, is also famous for Ausbruch. Rust has become very touristy – visitors flock to see the storks perched on their chimney-top nests – so it’s easy to find a café, restaurant or wine bar, such as Schandl, which serves hearty and very traditional dishes.

Neusiedl is the town at the top of the lake, and would make an alternative base to Eisenstadt, since it gives equidistant access to both shores. The villages of Gols and Illmitz, on the eastern side,aren’t as picturesque as Rust, but they are typical of Burgenland. Behind the houses’ demure facades are courtyards that often contain outbuildings where fermentation tanks and oak barrels are lodged.

Gernot Heinrich (www.heinrich.at) has been making wine for almost 30 years on the outskirts of Gols. His reds from Pinot Noir and Blaufränkisch, from vineyards near the winery and from the Leithaberg, are probably the finest offerings, although there are some interesting blends, both red and white. Much the same is true of Umathum, (en.umathum.at) whose winery lies south of Gols in Frauenkirchen. Other red-wine specialists open to visitors are Pöckl in Mönchhof (www.poeckl.at) and Pittnauer in Gols (www.pittnauer.com).

Once you reach Illmitz, you are in sweet-wine territory. The great master here was Alois Kracher, (www.kracher.at) who for two decades produced some of the world’s most complex botrytised wines. After his untimely death in 2007, his son Gerhard took over, and both the style and quality are unchanged. Kracher was never open to the public, but today there is a tasting room, featuring all the Kracher products (including delicious foodstuffs).

Hans Tschida’s winery is close by (www.angerhof-tschida.at). His trockenbeerenauslesen often have greater intensity and purity than Kracher’s but are a bit less complex. They are nonetheless world-class. Willi Opitz’s (www.willi-opitz.at) sweet wines, meanwhile, are more hit and miss, but his winery is still well worth a visit.

The Burgenland makes wine tourism here easy, thanks to a plethora of places to stay and eat. The Taubenkobel in Schützen is its finest restaurant, an enchanting place to visit, with a superb wine list to match exciting cooking. Or try winery restaurants such as Zur Dankbarkeit.

If you weary of wine, there is much else to do: aquatic sports, cycling trails, spa hedonism at the St Martins Therme, and opera performances in the vast former Roman quarry in St Margarethen.

Written by Stephen Brook

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Lake Neusiedl is fringed with charming estates that offer much more than just the famous Ruster Ausbruch, says Stephen Brook. Read his Burgenland travel guide here.

My perfect day in Burgenland

Morning

Eisenstadt, the regional capital of the Burgenland, is dominated by the huge four-square Schloss of the Esterházy family. Joseph Haydn lived here as the court composer, so it’s not surprising that the Schloss is used for musical and cultural events. It’s worth visiting the frescoed Haydnsaal, and some of the special exhibitions often held here. Walk down into the old town with its baroque houses, including the Haydn Museum. For refreshments, drop in to Café Henrici opposite the Schloss in what looks like a stable block.

Lunch

Drive 15 minutes east to Schützen and visit the Prieler winery – known for Pinot Gris and vibrant Blaufränkisch. Then drive north to Neusiedl. Along the main road, you’ll see the Nyikospark* restaurant. Despite an unimpressive exterior, it serves excellent regional food with a modern twist, and offers a wide range of wines by the glass.

Afternoon

Drive down the eastern side of the lake to Illmitz, home to many of the world’s best sweet-wine producers. Visit Hans Tschida’s Angerhof winery (‘Angerhof’ differentiates his winery from the other Tschidas in the neighbourhood). Here you can taste exquisite beerenauslesen and TBAs of wonderful purity: don’t miss the Welschriesling and Scheurebe TBAs. Then walk off any sugar overload by taking the lane that leads down to the lake itself.

Evening/overnight

Return to Neusiedl for an aperitif at the vinothek called Weinwerk* on the main road, before driving down to Mole West*, a modern bar and restaurant that juts out into the lake. Here you can sink into an armchair on the jetty with a glass of wine before dinner. The food is sophisticated and generous, mostly local but with some international dishes too. Dine outdoors or inside the glass- walled restaurant. From here it’s just a short drive back to Hotel Nyikospark*, which has modern, air-conditioned rooms.

For details of places marked with an asterisk (*), see the next page

Next page Previous page

Lake Neusiedl is fringed with charming estates that offer much more than just the famous Ruster Ausbruch, says Stephen Brook. Read his Burgenland travel guide here.

Burgenland: Where to stay, eat, shop and relax

Hotels

Hotel Ohr, Eisenstadt

Family-run hotel a few minutes’ walk from Schloss Esterházy with modern rooms, a rustic interior and a good restaurant (garden in summer) featuring a decent, reasonably priced wine list. hotelohr.at

St Martins Therme & Lodge, Frauenkirchen

Large, very modern spa with balconied rooms, restaurant, wine bar (with 60 by the glass) and a range of thermal treatments. Expensive and luxurious. stmartins.at

Hotel Birkenhof, Gols

Spacious, moderately priced hotel with a wellness centre. Child-friendly. birkenhof-gols.at

Hotel Nyikospark, Neusiedl

Perfectly located at the top of the lake, this restaurant also has modern, air-conditioned rooms. Spacious and stylish, enjoy the views onto the lake. nyikospark.at

Seewinklelhof Salzl, Illmitz

A pension with air-conditioned rooms around a pool. Moderate prices. salzl.at

Restaurants

Taubenkobel, Schützen

Run for years by the Eselböck family, this cosy but very sophisticated restaurant is the best in the Burgenland. Much produce is locally sourced, while the wine list is extensive and selected with flair. A Relais & Châteaux hotel too. Expensive, but still good value. taubenkobel.at

Mole West, Neusiedl

Modern, atmospheric bar and restaurant in a perfect location on a lakeside jetty. It offers something to suit all tastes, from bar drinks to snacks to full-scale meals, all to a high standard. A well-chosen Austrian wine list from top producers, and good breakfasts too. Moderate prices. mole-west.at

Nyikospark, Neusiedl

Town-centre restaurant with a summer terrace. Sascha Huber’s dishes are often traditional, but with a modern twist. Try Hungarian-style fish soup, pike-perch (zander) from the lake, rabbit and suckling pig. Excellent wine list. nyikospark.at

Gut Purbach, Purbach

A skilfully converted village manor is home to one of the region’s best restaurants. Chef Max Stiegl is a fan of ‘nose to tail’ eating, so lovers of offal and trotters will have a field day here. gutpurbach.at

Zur Dankbarkeit, Podersdorf

This thoroughly traditional inn offers tasty local cooking in comfortable surroundings, and in summer you can eat in the large garden behind the house. As well as wines from the owners, the Lentsch family, there is a substantial regional wine list. dankbarkeit.at

Shops

Weinwerk, Neusiedl

This shop on the main street stocks some 650 wines from more than 150 Burgenland producers. Around 30 wines are open for tasting, and you can sample them alongside simple food platters near the bar area. Upstairs there is a wide selection of regional foodstuff. weinwerk.at

Selektion Vinothek Burgenland, Eisenstadt

Across from the Schloss is a modern wine bar offering 600 wines and tasting flights organised by style. Snacks are available too. selektion-burgenland.at

Winery Visits

At the following wineries there is no need to make an appointment: Umathum, Feiler- Artinger, Wenzel, and Opitz. Appointments are advisable at Prieler (prieler.at), Gernot Heinrich (heinrich.at), Kracher (kracher.at) and Ernst Triebaumer (triebaumer.com). Moric (moric.at) can be visited by appointment only.

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The Austrian winemaker in a trademark dispute with Champagne Krug has said that agreeing to the Moet Hennessy-owned firm's demands would mean 'total submission'.

A tale of two Krugs: Champagne Krug (left) is worried about trademark infringement in Austria

Champagne Krug said late last week that it has restarted an ‘amicable conversation’ with a wine producer in Austria, which uses its own Krug family name on bottles.

The French Krug, owned by billionaire Bernard Arnault‘s LVMH group, believes consumers could confuse Austrian Krug wines with its own trademark, which has been registered in Austria since 1960.

However, Gustav Krug, owner of the Austrian producer, has accused the Champagne house of acting aggressively.

‘To accept Krug Champagne’s proposal that was made during the negotiations would have meant total submission,’ he told decanter.com.

‘I want to underline the fact that I have always been interested in peaceful coexistence, but not in total submission.’

He said Champagne Krug sent a declaration letter asking him to agree to change his labels and company name, as well as sign over ownership of the Krug.at domain name.

Since 2007, when the dispute first arose, Gustav Krug said he has added his winery’s home town of Gumposoldskirchen to labels in order avoid any potential confusion.

But, Champagne Krug said it raised further concerns last year after it learned that its Austrian counterpart had produced sparkling wine.

‘Usually, I solely produce still wine, only this year I produced minimal amounts of sparkling wine (frizzante), primarily to sell to my tavern’s guests in the summer,’ Gustav Krug said. ‘I do not think that anybody in the wine market will mistake my wine with Krug Champagne.’

Krug Champagne said, ‘the House of Krug has not entered into a lawsuit against Krug Gumpoldskirchen and both continue to sustain an amicable conversation’.

Written by Chris Mercer

Krug, the luxury Champagne house, has expressed concerns that an Austrian wine producer of same name could be infringing its trademark rights.

Champagne Krug (pictured, left) has so far stopped short of filing legal action, but said that it has repeatedly expressed concern to Krug Gumpoldskirchen, based near to Vienna in Austria.

The Austrian producer predominantly produces still wines under its own Krug family name. It has 16ha of vines.

LVMH-owned Krug said that it first contacted Austrian Krug in 2007 ‘to find an agreement to avoid any risk of association or confusion between what each had to offer’.

No agreement was reached, and in 2013 the Champagne house said it again made contact after discovering the Austrian firm has started making sparkling wine under the Krug name.

‘The House of Krug owns trademark rights in Austria dating back to 1960 and is actively enforcing its trademark rights worldwide against any kind of infringement,’ the Champagne producer said.

Of the talks, it said, ‘both [companies] continue to sustain an amicable conversation in order to reach a satisfactory solution’.

Austrian Krug could not be immediately reached for comment.

As a sector, Champagne producers are known for vigorously protecting their trademark rights. Last year, Champagne’s trade council, the CIVC, told decanter.com that its lawyers chase up to 1,000 potential infringement cases globally per year.

Written by Chris Mercer

Find out more about the world-renowned names that make up the 2014 Decanter World Wine Awards judging line-up in this Q&A series.

Andreas Wickhoff MW is the managing director of Premium Estates of Austria, which he established in 2004. Prior to settling in Austria, Wickhoff worked as a sommelier and wine buyer in Corsica, France and the USA.

Read our interview with Andreas Wickhoff MW below…

☆ Which year or decade do you wish you’d been born in and why?

Actually, I am quite pleased to be one of Generation X. Born in the mid-70s, I’ve had peace and no massive economic struggle in my life yet, and looking at the globe today, the importance and relevance of peace has become a lot more crucial again. Besides, I would never have wanted to miss the great music and fashion of the 80s.

☆ How old were you when you had your first wine ‘moment’ and what was it?

I was probably 14, and It was when my parents let me try wine from their glasses. The dryness and present tannin certainly challenged my palate at the time.

☆ How many bottles do you have in your cellar and what is your most recent addition?

That question reminds me I need to do an inventory soon as I have not done it in a long while! I am guessing around 600 bottles at the moment, and my most recent additions were my second lot of 2011 red Burgundy: Sylvain Cathiard’s ‘En Orveaux’ and ‘Aux Malconsorts’ from Vosne-Romanée, and Fourrier and Dugat-Py’s Gevrey-Chambertins, all of which will not be touched for a long time.

☆ How many years have you been working in the wine industry and what was your first job?

In the wine industry per se, I’d say 15 years. I came from the F&B (food and beverage) trade. My first job entirely linked with wine was sommelier at the Grand Hôtel de Cala Rossa in Corsica. A great experience!

☆ Which vintage and region (or wine) do you wish you’d bought a whole case of wine from?

1990 Vosne Romanée ‘Cros Parantoux’ by Henri Jayer. That would make me smile!

☆ In the last 12 months, which grape have you drunk the most of?

Riesling and/or Pinot Noir – I can’t say exactly which one comes first.

☆ In the last 12 months, what’s the most exciting region you’ve discovered or re-discovered and why?

I was intrigued by a wine I had in Sofia last May, a Gamza made in northwest Bulgaria in a village called Borovitza. The wine was well-structured, authentic, persistent and really exciting overall.

☆ Who’s your wine idol (who has inspired you the most in the wine world)?

I believe that Jancis Robinson MW and all her works have certainly been a great inspiration. There are also so many wonderful producers you meet during the course of the years who give you lots of spirit – Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy and the late Robert Mondavi come to mind, but also many growers from Austria and Germany.

☆ What’s your most memorable wine and food moment?

The outstanding Thai food in Las Vegas’ Lotus of Siam restaurant with some aged JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett; however, last year’s combination of 2006 Avize reserve wine at Champagne Bollinger with a perfectly mature Comte came very close. With both occasions and as always, it’s the overall atmosphere and the people you are with that make such a memorable experience.

☆ If you could taste/drink any wine in the world what would it be and who would you drink it with?

Domaine d’Auvenay, Meursault ‘Gouttes d’Or’ with the producer, Madame Lalou-Bize Leroy. She can choose the vintage!

☆ What’s the highest number of wines you’ve had on one of your wine lists?

I created my last wine lists more than 10 years ago, which is when I left the on-trade. Back then I was in Vail, Colorado, and I created around 400 listings.

☆ What is the oldest bottle of wine you’ve served?

1947 Cheval Blanc and 1947 Mouton Rothschild.

☆ What do you enjoy most about judging at the Decanter World Wine Awards?

Having such a great bunch of wine experts together and exchanging ideas with them about the wines. Two other wonderful things about the DWWA are that enough time is given to each wine tasted and the service is impeccable, both are absolutely crucial for successful wine judging!

For more information on this year’s competition, including how to enter, visit the Decanter World Wine Awards website

Written by Decanter

DWWA judge profile: Andreas Wickhoff MW

Andreas Wickhoff MW is a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

A private collection of thousands of rare Austrian wines are set to be auctioned in Vienna.

The auction, itself a rare event, will take place on 27 September and encompass a wide range of mature white, red and sweet Austrian wine dating back to 1989.

Wines from some of Austria‘s most internationally-prominent producers, including Emmerich Knoll, F. X. Pichler, Willi Bründlmayer and the late Alois Kracher, will be among 800 lots up for sale at the historic Dorotheum auction house, owned by a company of the same name.

The auction comprises around 6,000 bottles, all from the private collection of Alexander Stauder, owner of one of Vienna’s oldest restaurants, Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer.

Stauder began collecting the wines in 1997 and eventually amassed nearly 150,000 bottles, which he stored in his two wine cellars in Vienna.

‘I decided to sell the wines because Austrians tend to drink their wines very, very young,’ said Stauder. ‘This means I have a vast amount of wonderful mature wines that still have a long life ahead of them. I would never be able to sell them completely in a restaurant that seats 100 guests.’

The highlight of the auction is a 15-bottle Kracher Kollektion of Trockenbeerenauslesen from 1995, made by the late Alois Kracher and expected to fetch at least EUR1,800.

Other notable offerings in the auction include F. X. Pichler’s ‘M’ Grüner Veltliner Smaragd from 2004 and 2005, expected to fetch up to €680 per 12-bottle case. The sale also includes a six-magnum collection of Albert Gesellman’s red Bela Rex 1999, estimated to bring in at least EUR500.

Written by Darrel Joseph

Austria's vineyards are facing their fourth consecutive small harvest in 2013, thanks to a combination of hail, drought and poor weather during flowering.

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) said this year’s crop was expected to deliver 2.4m hectolitres of wine, more than 10% up on last year’s frost-hit vintage, but still slightly below average.

Flagship variety Grüner Veltliner was particularly badly impacted by fertilisation problems – known as coulure or ‘shatter’ – thanks to a ‘drastic’ weather change from heat to cold and wet conditions during flowering.

Regions along the Danube river were worst affected, including the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal, plus some parts of the Weinviertel and other isolated regions.

The AWMB added that vineyards have been ‘bombarded’ by hail throughout the year, with one storm on May 4th causing severe damage to vines in Mittelburgenland, the heartland of the Blaufränkisch grape.

By late August, some 2,500 hectares of vineyards had suffered hail damage costing about €5m – 1,200ha in Niederösterreich (lower Austria), 1,100ha in Burgenland and 200ha in Steiermark (Styria).

With the main harvest set to begin this week in Burgenland and in early October for Niederösterreich and Steiermark, the AWMB said very ripe grapes are expected, thanks to high temperatures during July and August.

But it warned, ‘many young vineyard sites with shallow, permeable soils have suffered greatly because of the prolonged summer heat and drought conditions.

‘Fortunately, the rainfall in the last days of August has been extremely important for the continuity of the rapid grape ripening process.’

Written by Richard Woodard

Leading Chinese wine producer Changyu has unveiled a new €70m winery in Ningxia province – and named it after the company's Austrian winemaking consultant.

Laurenz and Sophie Moser outside Chateau Changyu Moser XV

Chateau Changyu Moser XV – also the name of the estate’s flagship wine – took two years to build, and houses an 800-barrique cellar, high-tech bottling line and a museum illustrating the history of the company and of winemaking in China.

The winery is named after Laurenz Maria Moser V of Austrian winery Laurenz V, specialist producer of Grüner Veltliner and distributor of Changyu’s wines in Europe, with Changyu in turn distributing Laurenz V wines in China.

Moser, representing the fifth generation of the Lenz Moser family of the Niederösterreich region of Austria, has been a consultant and winemaking advisor to Changyu since 2005, travelling to China on 18 occasions in the past eight years.

The Chateau Changyu Moser XV Grand Vin is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Syrah, and ages for 12 months in 60% new oak barrels.

The initial bottling, from the 2008 vintage, is sourced from 66 hectares of 12-year-old vines adjacent to the chateau.

The chateau’s second wine, called Moser Family, a single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, was first made from the 2010 vintage and will be available this autumn.

Laurenz Moser said Changyu now planned to employ a European vineyard manager and winemaker to maintain future quality.

‘All agree that this is just the beginning,’ he said, adding that Changyu had ‘set the standard for further improvements very high’.

Written by Richard Woodard

Wiener Gemischter Satz, the traditional wine style from the city of Vienna, has been awarded DAC status.

Picture: © AWMB / Gerhard Elze

Wiener Gemischte Satz is the Austria’s ninth DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) but it is the first time a wine style – rather than a geographical region – has been given the status.

The new classification recognises the tradition of growing different grape varieties side-by-side in the vineyard, which has been revived over the past decade by local producers under the WienWein banner.

Originally designed to protect yields and minimise the risk of a poor harvest, the practice eventually resulted in ‘a unique aroma and flavour profile’, according to the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.

Vineyards in the DAC have to include at least three quality white grape varieties, planted together, and must be listed as Wiener Gemischter Satz in the vineyard land registry.

For the wines, the first of which will be released from the 2013 harvest, the first grape variety must constitute no more than 50% of the blend, and the third at least 10%.

The wine must be dry, no more than 12.5% abv and should not have a ‘strongly recognisable expression’ of wood.

Single vineyard wines made under the DAC must be at least 12.5% abv, do not have to be dry and cannot be released until 1 March in the year after harvest.

‘With the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC, we’ve achieved a milestone in the consistent, years-long quality policy for wine growing in Vienna,’ said Herbert Schilling, head of Vienna’s Regional Wine Committee.

‘The new regulations sharpen the origin profile of Wiener Gemischter Satz and, at the same time, reflect Vienna’s diversity in the glass.’

All other Viennese quality wines can continue to be marketed as Wiener Wein.

Written by Richard Woodard

A Decanter.com promotion

^{Images: © AWMB/ Dieter Steinbach}

Austria’s largest wine tourism platform goes online at austrianwine.com; AWMB Estimates Turnover from Wine Tourism Close to € 500 million.

Austrian wine is ready to be discovered – from the vineyards where the grapes ripen under the sun to the cellars of every winemaker. More than 2 million overnight stays of wine and culinary holiday makers are already recorded annually in the domestic tourism sector, and further growth is expected.

To make the individual wine journeys in Austria’s most beautiful wine regions even easier, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) launches on August 22nd the largest wine tourism platform in the country. Travel tips for every region – from the Weinviertel to Steiermark and along the Danube to the Neusiedler See – can be found at www.austrianwine.com under the category “Wine & Travel”.

Rising Economic Importance of Wine Tourism

Holiday time in Austria is inextricably linked with the typical Austrian hospitality and the country’s culinary diversity. Gourmets from all over the world are attracted by the unique regional foods here. And particular attention is paid to wine as a prime Austrian speciality.

“Although wine travel is still a niche product in Austria, the signs are clearly pointing to growth,” says Petra Stolba, managing director of the Austrian National Tourist Office. “Because travelling to the wine and enjoying such a very special way of life correspond exactly to the spirit of our guests.”

“By extending our website austrianwine.com with the new tool, Wine & Travel, the AWMB supports exactly this tourism trend,” says AWMB’s general manager, Willi Klinger. “From the 131 million overnight stays per year, more than 2 million of them represent wine and culinary holiday makers. I estimate that the turnover generated by wine tourists is approximately €500 million.”

The new tool is available in the German and English languages, which is useful for all guests from Austria and its bordering neighbour countries, from Switzerland to Hungary. But also wine tourists from other countries in Europe, including the CEE area, Benelux, Scandinavia and Great Britain, as well as from overseas – including the USA, Japan, China and Australia – should also find it easier to travel in Austria’s wine regions because of this new tool.

Comprehensive network data bases for the maximum experience

Wine travels in Austria is an all-round experience: the romantic landscapes, vineyards and cellar lanes together with fine food and good wine provide for a popular tourist and travel adventure for guests from home and abroad.

Here, the complete range of natural, cultural and special attractions play an important role.

The new online tool from the AWMB – at www.austrianwine.com under the category “Wine & Travel” – connects Austria’s top wineries and wine data bases with the data bases of the Austrian National Tourist Board and the most important gastronomic guides, accommodation possibilities and the numerous sights and attractions in all of the wine regions.

User integration ensures continuous up-to-date relevance

“Wine & Travel” offers interesting destination points (such as Winemakers, Wines, Vinotheques, Hotels and Gastronomy) which can be combined into a route. A key component is the “web 2.0” tool, which allows users to be constantly integrated with all of the website functions. Users have the option to save their own profiles and routes, to upload to existing route and destination photos and videos as well as leave their comments and ratings. If users know of attractive and interesting destinations that are not listed in the Wine & Travel data base, these can be proposed and created for many of the categories.

“Wine & Travel” goes online August 22nd

Just in time for the beginning of the wine season, “Wine & Travel” goes online August 22nd.

The launch will be followed by radio spots, a targeted online campaign and a new wine tourism print advertising campaign from the AWMB. The campaign will feature wine tourism motifs of Wien (Vienna), Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Burgenland and Steiermark.

“Wine & Travel” at www.austrianwine.com

Press information, August 22nd 2013

AWMB, Mag. Susanne Staggl

Tel.: +43 1 503 92 67, Fax: +43 1 503 92 68

info@oesterreichwein.at, http://www.österreichwein.at

www.oesterreichwein.at/facebook, http://www.twitter.com/oesterreichwein

Written by Decanter