Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW, Jason Millar and Stefan Neumann MS tasted 77 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 22 Highly recommended

Unoaked Italian reds: Panel tasting scores

77 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 22

Recommended 45

Commended 5

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit red wines of any vintage from anywhere in Italy, made from grape varieties indigenous to the region of production, either 100% varietal or in a blend containing a minimum 85% of indigenous varieties; no vinification or ageing in oak of any type was permitted

Eschewing the oak

Wooden barrels have been used in the wine industry since Roman times, with producers commonly making use of local woods such as acacia, pine or chestnut.

Over time, oak became the preferred material due to its tight grain and abundance across Europe.

As winemakers recognised its positive influence on tannins and flavours, oak gained dominance in today’s wine industry.

Ripe black fruit flavours mixed with smoky (oak-derived) vanilla equals enjoyable drinking experiences for most consumers.

In the production of reds, winemakers use oak barrels or chips to add flavour and complexity, and to help soften tannins, which begs the question: don’t all red wines have oak?

There are more unoaked red wines made than we might initially realise; often they’re simpler, fruitier wines intended to be drunk young – Beaujolais and young Rioja being notable examples.

Yet no other country has more of an association with unoaked red wines than Italy.

The decision to not use oak is based on the desire to preserve the pure expression of a grape variety, to highlight regional terroir, or to create a fresher, more fruit-driven style.

Vessels such as stainless steel, concrete vats and clay amphorae allow for minimal intervention, letting inherent flavours shine – ‘wines without lipstick’ is how Jason Millar described these wines; completely exposed, without any beautification.

‘Wines that bring an element of joy to the drinker’

For this tasting, 17 of Italy’s 20 regions were represented. Piedmont, Tuscany and Sicily topped the list in terms of entries.

Sangiovese was the most popular variety, followed by Barbera – understandable, given that they’re two of Italy’s most planted varieties.

The main discussion among the judges was whether an unoaked wine could be more than simple and fruity. Could it be complex and have the ‘wow factor’?

The top achievers were simple but also concentrated and delicious expressions – ‘wines that bring an element of joy to the drinker’, according to Stefan Neumann MS.

Ultimately, our question was answered.

Without oak, these wines were capable of expressing purity and a true sense of place. And they certainly had that wow factor!

What to eat with unoaked Italian reds, by Fiona Beckett

So varied are these wines in terms of region and grape variety that it’s difficult to make a generalisation about wine matching, other than to focus on what kind of food unoaked Italian wines might successfully pair with in comparison with oaked wines.

By and large they’re younger, lower in alcohol and less expensive than their oaked counterparts – more for everyday or at least relaxed weekend drinking than fine dining.

In regions such as Tuscany, where red wine is predominantly an unoaked wine, it often takes the place of a white – the go-to with a homely chickpea and rosemary soup, for example, or a simple plate of pasta before moving on to a more serious wine with the meat.

Pizza is another obvious option, which isn’t to diminish these wines – it’s an underrated foil for a simple, well-made red.

With their typically pronounced acidity, unoaked reds are a natural match for salumi and, perhaps less obviously, for fish. There’s no reason why you can’t drink a light Sicilian red such as Frappato with pasta con le sarde (with sardines), for instance, or a Bardolino with some garlicky grilled prawns.

See all notes and scores from the unoaked Italian reds tasting

The judges

Unoaked Italian reds panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Barbera may never be as highly regarded as Nebbiolo (the grape that makes Barolo and Barbaresco), but in the Asti province of Piedmont it is the lifeblood of local vintners.

For the past five decades, winemakers here have laboured to improve both the quality and reputation of the grape, with the most ambitious and successful enterprise being the creation of the Nizza DOC – originally a subzone of Barbera d’Asti Superiore – in 2000.

Along with well defined boundaries, what makes the wines of Nizza stand out is that the production regulations stipulate low yields – lower even than for Barbaresco.

‘This means that you typically need an old vineyard that produces less quantity’, explains Stefano Chiarlo, director of the Nizza consorzio.

Compared with Barbera d’Asti, which originates from a much broader area, Stefano Gagliardo of Tenuta Garetto explains that: ‘Nizza tends to show a more consistent profile, with greater structure, density and capacity to evolve, expressing a deeper and more complete interpretation of the Barbera grape.’

Mosaic of soils

While Nizza is still in its adolescent stage, communal differences have emerged.

Gagliardo notes that sandy marl soils are typical in Agliano Terme; these tend to produce wines with ‘aromatic precision, freshness and energy’.

Nizza Monferrato, at the centre of the appellation, shows ‘greater diversity in soils and exposure’, resulting in wines that display greater stylistic differences.

The mosaic of soils from Castelnuovo Calcea combine calcareous marls, clays and sandy components.

Gagliardo says that, ‘the balance between these elements often determines whether a wine leans toward power or elegance'.

A matter of wood

While many Nizza producers formerly matured their wines in barrique for a spicier and more vigorous wine, that approach has largely changed.

At Frasca in Agliano Terme, winemaker Matteo Gerbi uses large oak casks of between 2,500 and 4,500 litres.

He says that these casks are, ‘functional in maturing the tannins and smoothing out the edges, without adding too many tertiary notes that are not in line with my idea of Nizza’.

At Marenco, Andrea Costa uses 500 litre French oak tonneaux for his Zana Riserva; among the most refined of all Nizza wines.

‘We thought this size was the optimum compromise for our Zana wine to fix the tannins and still grant the expression of the fruit,’ he says.

However, there are some Nizza producers that still vinify with smaller oak, most notably Prunotto.

Gianluca Torrengo, oenologist and estate director, explains that the estate’s Nizza Riserva ‘Costamiòle’ – named for the eponymous hill in Agliano Terme – was conceived in 1996 with the idea of ageing the wine in barrique.

‘And that vision remains central to its identity’, he says.

For the 2020 vintage, the wine was aged for approximately 12 months in new French barriques.

Torrengo views the role of barriques as contributing structure, complexity and textural depth, while at the same time preserving the freshness and character of Barbera and allowing the wine’s terroir to remain clearly expressed.

‘In short,’ he explains, ‘barriques for Costamiòle are not a stylistic choice dictated by fashion, but a coherent part of the wine’s history, interpreted today with greater sensitivity and precision.’

How does Nizza compare to Piedmont's other Barbera wines?

Noting the difference between a Barbera d’Asti (or even a Barbera d’Asti Superiore) and a Nizza, Torrengo explains that for the latter, yields are lower, ripening is more complete, and the regulations require longer ageing periods.

These are all factors that he believes provide for greater substance, balance and the ability to evolve over time.

‘While Barbera d’Asti is often defined by immediacy and approachability, Nizza aims for a more ambitious, terroir-driven interpretation, combining the natural energy of the variety with the structure of a serious, ageworthy red wine.’

While the most successful markets for Nizza have been Italy and northern Europe, the wine’s identity is not commonplace in other countries.

‘Unfortunately, it is a relatively young denomination and is not yet very well known’, admits Giovanna Garesio of the eponymous winery.

Chiarlo however, has witnessed impressive growth since 2016, when the 2014 Nizza DOCG wines were first released.

He says: ‘Since it was decided to use the Nizza appellation, starting from 30 producers with 30 labels accounting for less than 300,000 bottles sold, we now have more than 100 producers with more than 200 labels, with just over one million bottles sold, of which 60% are in 40 different markets.

'But there is still much more to do in order to create more confidence and familiarity among wine lovers.’

Tom's six Nizza wines to try:

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Known collectively as ‘the three Bs’, Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello di Montalcino are three of Italy’s most renowned wines.

Barolo and Barbaresco, from Piedmont, are made from Nebbiolo grapes and differ in their ageing requirements and location. Brunello di Montalcino, from Tuscany, is made from Sangiovese Grosso and has longer ageing requirements.

In this article we delve deeper into the trio’s differences and also explore winemaking traditions, trends like single vineyard wines and list key producers for each wine.

Of course, it’s purely coincidence that all three begin with the same letter, but it’s a neat way to group these top-tier reds.

Barolo and Barbaresco are both situated close together, in the Langhe area of Piedmont in northwest Italy. Made from the Nebbiolo grape – which is thought to be named after the fog, or ‘nebbia’, a common occurrence in the Langhe hills in the cooler months – the wines are most appreciated for their complex and ethereal aromas and flavours allied to structural tannins.

Brunello di Montalcino is based around the hilltop town of Montalcino, in the Tuscan province of Siena. The wine takes its name from the local term for the grapes grown here: known as ‘Brunello’, it was once thought to be a grape unique to the area but has since been proven to be a biotype of Sangiovese known as Sangiovese Grosso.

Traditionally, Barolo and Barbaresco demanded long cellaring before drinking, but these days many examples are made in a more approachable style.

Barolo

Barolo consists of 11 villages, or ‘communes’ located to the southwest of the regional capital, Alba. The wines must undergo a minimum of 36 months of ageing, including at least 18 months in wooden barrels.

Large barrels made from chestnut or Slavonian oak were traditionally used, until the ‘modernist revolution’ of the 1980s and ’90s introduced French oak barriques and shorter macerations, which some producers favoured.

Today, there is no clear divide between traditionalist and modernist winemakers as there was in the past, and many use a selection of different sized barrels with little or no new oak.

Barolo producers to know: Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, GB Burlotto, Bruno Giacosa, E Pira e Figli

View Decanter’s Barolo wine reviews

Barbaresco

Barbaresco is a smaller zone, focused around four villages (‘communes’) to the northeast of Alba, close to the Tanaro river. The wines are typically more approachable in their youth than Barolo and so minimum ageing is 24 rather than 36 months, with at least nine months in wood stipulated.

Like Barolo, Barbaresco was influenced by the modernist movement but today, producers have assimilated the best of both philosophies to their advantage.

Barbaresco producers to know: Bruno Giacosa, Gaja, Roagna, Ceretto, Produttori del Barbaresco, Oddero

View Decanter’s Barbaresco wine reviews

Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello di Montalcino is an entirely different wine to Barolo and Barbaresco. It’s made from Sangiovese grown around the hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany. Minimum ageing is 48 months, including 24 months in wood.

Compared to the other key Sangiovese areas in Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino typically has more richness and structure than Chianti, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, combined with a ‘Burgundian’ elegance.

Brunello di Montalcino producers to know: Biondi-Santi, Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera, Canalicchio di Sopra, Conti Costanti, Fuligni, Il Marroneto, Le Chiuse, Podere Giodo, Casanova di Neri, Le Potazzine

View Decanter’s Brunello di Montalcino wine reviews

Single-vineyard wines

One significant trend to note is the development of single-vineyard wines. These individual sites have developed ever-greater prominence in Barolo, a trend which is also present in Barbaresco.

The official specification of MGAs (similar to a ‘cru’) in both areas has helped to underline the impact of terroir on the expression of a wine.

Many producers release several different MGA wines from one vintage, as well as a ‘classic’ Barolo made from grapes from several different vineyard sites.

A similar recognition is beginning to happen in Montalcino, and although single-vineyard wines are released by some producers, there has yet to be any official designation of sub-zones or crus.

Related articles

• Where to eat and drink in Barolo
• Barbaresco 2013: A retrospective of one of the top vintages in the last decade
• Brunello di Montalcino 2019 – ‘spoiled for choice’: Full report

In 2023, Michaela Morris and the Barbaresco consorzio organised a 10-year retrospective of the 2013 vintage.

Below, you can find Michaela's tasting notes and scores for 65 wines (70 were tasted but five were deemed faulty) from this unique tasting, listed in score order.

See also

Barbaresco 2013: A 10-year retrospective

Stephen Brook, Vincenzo Arnese and Sara Bachiorri tasted 60 wines, with 3 highly recommended and 40 recommended.

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting scores

60 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 3

Recommended 40

Commended 17

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current vintage releases of still red Barbera wines from any of the DOC/DOCGs Barbera d’Alba/Superiore, Barbera d’Asti/Superiore, Barbera del Monferrato/Superiore, Nizza or Nizza Riserva

Barbera is a wonderfully versatile grape variety that can be produced in a range of styles, from lean and refreshing to bold, rich and oaky. Above all, it’s a wine designed to be enjoyed with food: its high natural acidity is perfect for cutting through rich Italian dishes such as lasagne. Acidity can be treacherous, however – too much and the wine will be tart and astringent; too little and it can be flabby or drab.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Piedmont Barbera panel tasting

Barbera thrives in most of Piedmont, but its heartlands are Monferrato, Alba and Asti. The most prestigious DOCG, the 250ha Nizza, lies within the province of Asti. Although it doesn’t necessarily always produce the best wines, in this tasting the Nizza wines proved to be impressive.

It’s often said that Barbera fares best in the Asti zone, where the variety is greatly prized, whereas in Alba, Nebbiolo gets top billing, with the greatest vineyards dedicated to the Barolo or Barbaresco wines made from that grape. On the basis of this and other tastings, great wines are now produced in both Asti and Alba zones, as shown by the distribution of higher scores here.

The tasters agreed that the overall standard of winemaking was high, as Sara Bachiorri noted: ‘There was good quality across all the appellations.’ There were a few let-downs, but no duds, and the best bottles offered great drinking pleasure at an affordable price. Bachiorri found that vintage variations showed through clearly. Vincenzo Arnese agreed, but thought that winemaking styles tended to override vintage.

There was no opposition to oak-ageing, as such, but there was some disagreement about how skilfully the barrels had been deployed. Bachiorri commented: ‘Oak-ageing is fine if Barbera’s identity isn’t overpowered. But personally I like juicy Barberas for everyday drinking.’ And that’s what makes Barbera an exciting variety: it can deliver delightful wines after some months just in steel or concrete, more polished wines after a year or so in casks, or chewy, structured wines aged in barriques. This range of styles is a bonus for consumers.

See notes and scores for all the Piedmont Barbera panel tasting wines

For Barbera, ‘Superiore’ simply denotes longer ageing, whether in vat, cask or bottle. In blind tastings, Superiore doesn’t always live up to its name, but here there did seem to be an overall leap in quality and sophistication, with a much higher proportion (35%) of Superiore wines among those scoring 90 points or more than below 90pts. Arnese commented that ‘the Superiores were more elevated, almost like single-vineyard wines’.

The great majority of these wines can be drunk now, although the best – and most Nizzas – can easily age for eight or 10 years.

Barbera is an affordable wine, and there were pleasurable examples priced below £15, but it’s often worth paying a bit more to enjoy additional concentration and complexity.

There were some revered names among the top wines – Vietti, Chiarlo, Clerico, Vajra; but the same can be said of other names among the lowest-scoring! Scores were mostly consistent between the judges, and it was gratifying to see almost three-quarters of the wines rated Highly recommended or above.

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting scores

The judges

Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont. The author of 35 books, he has won several awards for his work in wine.

Vincenzo Arnese is the director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he previously worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, as well as Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. He is a DWWA judge, and in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year.

Sara Bachiorri is in the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. A DWWA judge since 2013, she was was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew, then Chez Bruce in southwest London, followed by a stint at Italian specialist merchant FortyFive10°.

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Stephen Brook, Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW and Aldo Fiordelli tasted 87 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 44 Highly recommended.

Barbaresco panel tasting scores

87 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 44

Recommended 39

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit village or MGA-level Barbarescos, with a maximum of two wines per producer and preferably to include one current vintage and one older vintage, or two different crus 

The results of this Barbaresco panel tasting were impressive, with 46 wines (just over half) scoring 90 points or above.

It was dominated by the consistently attractive and newly released 2019 vintage, represented by 54 wines.

These balanced, fruity and structured wines are accessible in their youth but, in most cases, should also age well. This is in line with recent trends in the region, where even Barolos are now being made in a less demanding and dense style so that consumers are no longer obliged to cellar these wines for a decade or more.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top wines from the Barbaresco panel tasting

Although 2019 was a hot year, the cooler nights in the autumn towards the end of the growing season kept the wines fresh and vibrant, largely accounting for the success of the vintage. Some experts have compared it to 2010 or 2016, but it is probably too early to pronounce. For Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW, the 2019s display ‘fresh, crunchy acidity’, and are ‘highly approachable, although they may not be that long-lived’.

Aldo Fiordelli was also happy with the quality of the wines: ‘The tannins are refined and in balance, and they offer a classic style of Barbaresco,’ he said. ‘And the wines from the vineyards of the Barbaresco commune, such as [MGAs] Asili and Gallina, struck me as the most successful. There were good volumes, too.’

Producers were invited to submit two wines, and while some sent in two different crus – or their ‘village’ Barbaresco plus a cru – from the same year, others presented two vintages of the same wine. This made for some interesting comparisons and points of conversation for the judges. There was a reasonable representation from the 2018 vintage (19 wines), which in some quarters has been unjustly dismissed as lightweight.

See all 87 wines from the Barbaresco panel tasting

Many observers, however, find Barbaresco more consistent than Barolo in this vintage. Hail was certainly a problem in some locations, but the vintage was less bedevilled by untimely rain than the 2014 vintage to which it is often compared. The fact that producers such as Gaja and the fine cooperative Produttori del Barbaresco decided not to offer any single-vineyard wines in 2018 contributed to the vintage’s reputation being sidelined.

To be sure, 2018 lacks the brilliance of 2016 and the opulence of 2017, but it produced wines of immediate charm and considerable nuance, even if the vintage is less ageworthy than 2016 or 2019. ‘The 2018s are open and expressive, but they are more bony on the palate than the 2019s and lack some intensity and flesh,’ concluded Fiordelli.

Fiordelli was pleasantly surprised by the 2017s (six wines) – from a very hot, drought- affected year – even though they arguably lacked some elegance, while Cherutti-Kowal was impressed by the ‘superstar’ 2016s (five wines). Marchesi di Grésy’s Gaiun Martinenga 2014 was one of the top performers in the tasting, receiving scores of 95, 95 and 92 from the three judges, while Negro’s Basarin 2006 split opinions with scores of 95, 94 and 88.

It’s hard to single out the most successful Barbaresco wineries, but it may be worth noting that the following properties all had two wines among the top 30 bottles in this tasting: Angelo Negro, Carlo Giacosa, Castello di Verduno, Ceretto and Massolino. Cherutti-Kowal made a point that, although top Barbaresco doesn’t come cheap, many of the best wines still tend to be below £50 and thus are considerably better value than the top wines from Barolo in a comparable vintage.

Top scoring Barbarescos

The judges

Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont. The author of almost 40 books, he has won several awards for his work in wine.

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW is a widely published wine writer, consultant, educator and WSET lecturer, and was an Acting Regional Chair for Tuscany at DWWA 2022.

Aldo Fiordelli is a widely published journalist, wine writer and author, and a DWWA judge. He qualified as a sommelier in 2003, and in 2022 received a special award from Tuscany’s Consorzio Cortona Vini.

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• Barbaresco Riserva 2017 vintage report plus top picks
• Barbaresco 2019 vintage report: 40 wines to try
• Barbaresco Riserva 2016 vintage report plus top-scoring wines

The wine region of Monferrato expands across the provinces of Asti and Alessandria in southern Piedmont. It lies to the east of Cuneo, where Barolo and Barbaresco are located. But before heading directly to those hallowed hills, it’s worth stopping in Monferrato to explore its wines.

Monferrato embraces a dizzying number of overlapping denominations and is home to many of Italy’s fascinating native varieties.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six top Monferrato red wines

Leading the way is Barbera. Widely spread throughout Italy, Barbera is thought to have its origins in Monferrato – and the region certainly boasts some of its finest specimens. This sunloving grape is given plenty of opportunity to shine as it typically occupies the best sites, whereas in neighbouring Langhe these are reserved for Nebbiolo.

Barbera produces deeply hued wines with a signature red cherry flavour. Mouthwatering acidity is this grape’s calling card, yet Barbera is conversely discreet in tannins. Its most ambitious versions come from low-yielding vines and are concentrated. Ageing vessels provide palpable differences in style: stainless steel emphasises youthful, vivacious fruit, whereas oak ageing may be used to build up mid-palate weight, soften acidity and lend wood tannins. Depending on size, percentage of new wood and toast levels, oak barrels add notes ranging from subtle spice and toast to overt chocolate and vanilla.

Monferrato’s various Barbera denominations reflect this diversity. The intersecting regions of Barbera d’Asti DOCG and Barbera del Monferrato DOC account for much of the area’s Barbera bottlings. Wines labelled as such are generally fresh, unoaked examples, and more than one third of the latter are made frizzante or lightly sparkling. The Superiore category of both Barbera d’Asti and Barbera del Monferrato requires a minimum of six months in barrel, so these will have varying degrees of wood influence

Nestled within Asti, Nizza was once a sub-zone but was promoted to a DOCG in its own right in 2014. With strict production regulations demanding Barbera in purezza at low maximum yields, Nizza favours high-quality production. Wines are uniform in style in that they always include oak ageing of at least six months (12 for Riserva). Yet even in the contained area of Nizza, there are differences – soils are described as clay-sandy marl of marine origin, but the terrain is varied. In the north, sandier soil is said to give lighter, racier, more immediate wines. In the south, a greater presence of marl and sandstone is associated with denser, more powerful Barbera. Subtle distinctions, nonetheless, can be obscured by winemaking.

Nizza is, without a doubt, a laudable source of complex and concentrated Barbera, and I have enjoyed many extraordinary bottles. The caveat is that they often come with heady alcohol, sometimes even upwards of 16%. ‘High alcohol in Barbera can be a problem,’ admits Andrea Faccio at Villa Giada. He relates the challenge to climate change and points to less drastic green harvesting as one approach to mitigating rising sugar levels.

Monferrato: four producers to know

Accornero Besides outstanding Barbera and convincing Nebbiolo, Accornero crafts serious Grignolino.

Michele Chiarlo Despite having one foot in the Langhe, this top Barbera producer is firmly rooted in Monferrato.

Olim Bauda From Barbera d’Asti to Nizza Riserva, wines are deftly balanced and polished. Its Grignolino and Freisa are also highly recommended.

Scarpa A great name for beautifully aged Barbera. Scarpa’s Rouchet (Ruchè) is also a standout.

Lesser known grapes

While Barbera reigns in Monferrato, it graciously leaves space for a host of red cohorts. Dolcetto is widely planted, with four variety-focused denominations – Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto di Ovada and Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore.

However, lesser-known grapes Freisa and Grignolino are intrinsic to Monferrato’s identity and responsible for the region’s repute. ‘Freisa is a direct offspring of Nebbiolo,’ says renowned grape geneticist Dr Anna Schneider. Assertive in both tannins and acidity, it tends to be more rustic than Nebbiolo. Asti’s sandy soil accentuates its aromas, which can be redolent of strawberry – as the name freisa suggests.

A distant relative of Nebbiolo, Grignolino was once as highly thought of as its famous ancestor. Alas, it fell out of favour due in part to its unfashionable expression. Pale in colour, with crisp acidity and scratchy tannins, Grignolino is definitely not fruit-plump. Rather, it is thoroughly mouth-cleansing, with crunchy berries and white pepper. While most Grignolino today is vinified in stainless steel, traditional vinification methods – such as long macerations and ageing in oak casks – are being revived to make ageworthy examples.

Then there are highly local specialties, such as the exotically scented Ruchè. Mostly limited to the Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, it produces a fleshy, dry, aromatic red.

Monferrato has also embraced international grapes such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Nero. The catch-all denomination of Monferrato Rosso allows any proportion of these, as well as native grapes Barbera, Bonarda, Dolcetto, Freisa, Grignolino and Nebbiolo. This makes for a mixed bag of wines under one umbrella.

Despite being considered Piedmont’s flagship grape, Nebbiolo plantings are small-scale in Monferrato. Nevertheless, it has a long history in the zone. ‘At the beginning of the 1900s, it was widely cultivated,’ says Gianni Bertolino at Olim Bauda. ‘Over time, it was replaced by more productive grapes like Barbera and Moscato.’

When the Monferrato DOC was established in the 1990s, it allowed varietal labelling for the Dolcetto and Freisa varieties – but not Nebbiolo.

Only as of the 2019 vintage has Monferrato DOC Nebbiolo been permitted (see below). Producers are pleased with this change for several reasons, not least of which is how Nebbiolo might alleviate the grave challenge of flavescence dorée. A type of grapevine yellowing, this phytoplasma disease is decimating vineyards in Monferrato. ‘Nebbiolo is more resistant than Barbera and Grignolino, so it could be a help to local viticulture,’ says Bertolino.

Beyond reds

Taking a backstage to red, Monferrato’s white wines are led by Cortese. Its best-known appellation is Gavi DOCG. The neighbouring Colli Tortonesi DOC occupies the far east of Monferrato and allows everything from Barbera and Dolcetto to Cortese; however, the recently rediscovered Timorasso is the grape that is garnering all the attention (these wines are often labelled with the historic Roman name of the region: Derthona). It thrives in pockets of light, limestone-rich clay, making structured, textural and intensely mineral white wines.

Fizz fans will appreciate Monferrato’s plethora of bubbles. Fragrant Moscato Bianco gives the sweet, lithe, frothy wines of the Moscato d’Asti DOCG as well as the fully sparkling Asti DOCG, which covers all sweetness levels. Likewise, the rare but delightful sparkling red Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG ranges from dry to charmingly sweet. Finally, the Langhe spills over into Asti at its southern point, where it is known as Langhe Astigiano. In this hilly area, the DOCG of Alta Langa proposes high-quality, traditional-method sparklers from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

From sweet to dry, sparkling to still – in every hue, Monferrato’s offerings are boundless. The region’s indigenous grapes provide plenty for the adventurous. And when only a satisfying glass of Barbera will do, Monferrato can’t be beaten.

Gathering pace: Monferrato DOC Nebbiolo

Prior to 2019, Nebbiolo wines in Monferrato were only entitled to the Monferrato Rosso DOC. ‘It was a handicap not being able to name the grape variety on the label,’ says Villa Giada’s Andrea Faccio. Finally approved, the new denomination stipulates a minimum of 90% Nebbiolo in two categories: Monferrato Nebbiolo must age for 12 months before release, while those labelled Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore require at least 18 months, including six in wood. Maximum yields are 63hl/ha and 56hl/ha respectively.

To date, the inaugural 2019 vintage is the only one to have been fully declared at just 122,000 bottles, and 2020 numbers have yet to be finalised. However, the denomination is set to grow: as of October 2021, the consorzio recorded 248ha of Nebbiolo, which represents a twofold increase since the date of approval.

Despite this increase, plantings of Nebbiolo remain limited. ‘I don’t think we will see a conversion to Nebbiolo,’ asserts Ermanno Accornero, a producer in Vignale Monferrato. ‘Our territory remains principally designated for Barbera and Grignolino.’ Faccio, however, does see a potential risk of Nebbiolo being planted on unsuitable sites, especially as Nebbiolo grapes command a higher price than Barbera. ‘If it isn’t planted in the right spot, it’s hard to make even a mediocre wine. Hopefully, appropriate controls will ensure that this doesn’t occur,’ he says.

Stefano Chiarlo at Michele Chiarlo says the area around San Marzano Oliveto an Moasca in southern Asti is well suited. ‘The soil is the same Tortonian geological matrix similar to La Morra [in the Barolo region],’ he explains. In Vignale, further north, Accornero says the Nebbiolo is ‘more robust, full-bodied and structured’ than Barolo.

Nebbiolo from Monferrato is inevitably different from its Langhe brethren. Those I have so far sampled may not show the precision and finesse of Barbaresco and Barolo, but they do exhibit personality of place. Given the ageing requirements, wines labelled Monferrato Nebbiolo are only just trickling onto the market. Villa Giada’s Treponti, Accornero’s Girotondo and Il Falchetto’s Barbarossa are all worth seeking out, though pre-2019 bottlings still bear the Monferrato Rosso DOC.

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A talent contest of Piedmont’s native grape varieties might well see the top prize going to Nebbiolo. It’s Barbera, however, that gets my vote for congeniality.

Grown throughout Italy, Barbera is among the country’s top 10 most planted grapes. It is also one of the few indigenous Italian varieties succeeding in international soil.

Nevertheless, Barbera’s most significant plantings are in the northwestern region of Piedmont, which provides benchmark examples.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Michaelas’ top Piedmont Barbera wines

Believed to have existed since the Middle Ages, Barbera originated in Alessandria province.

During the 1900s, this easy-to-grow, vigorous variety established itself as Piedmont’s reliable workhorse. ‘It was a very productive grape and ripeness was rarely fully achieved,’ states Stefano Almondo of Giovanni Almondo in Roero. The resulting wines were mouth- puckeringly tart, painfully skinny and often slightly spritzy. At best, Barbera was prized as a blending partner with Nebbiolo, lending colour and tempering the latter’s fiercer tannins.

Barbera’s prospects began to improve in the 1980s as producers started shifting their focus from quantity to quality. A significant turning point was the first release of Giacomo Bologna’s Bricco dell’Uccellone in 1985. Bologna refused to accept Barbera’s fate as an ‘everyday’ wine. He crafted a single-vineyard Barbera from low-yielding, super-ripe grapes and aged it in new oak barriques. A seminal wine, it demonstrated that Barbera was capable of producing rich, concentrated and soft reds.

Bricco dell’Uccellone also spawned a new style of Barbera as more producers introduced oak barrels to impart roundness, structure and complexity. In truth, many were over-zealous, with toasty vanilla and chocolate notes taking over any varietal or terroir expression.

Mercifully, in recent years the wood has been reined in and oaked versions demonstrate better balance. There have also been improvements to Barbera in stainless steel, which highlights this variety’s bright and frisky, fruity charms.

Barbera wines: great recent vintages

2017 Barbera responded well to this exceptionally dry, hot year. Surprising balance despite opulence and high alcohol.

2016 Though not as warm as surrounding vintages, long, slow ripening allowed Barbera to reach sufficient ripeness. Exceptional elegance and freshness.

2015 A very warm year, giving plenty of ripeness, power and supple fruit.

Compact and consistent

Barbera’s range of expression is further captured in its various appellations, the best known of which are Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba.

Barbera d’Asti is from the Monferrato region, southeast of Turin, extending across the province of Asti and into neighbouring Alessandria.

Barbera d’Alba is produced further south, in Cuneo province, which includes the Langhe hills (home to Barolo and Barbaresco), as well as Roero. Monferrato’s sandy soil gives lighter, linear wines and accentuates Barbera’s perky acidity. In contrast, the Langhe’s calcareous clay yields fuller, fleshier reds. This, however, is a broad generalisation as soils in both areas are convoluted.

Furthermore, in Monferrato, Barbera reigns and is planted on the best sites, while in the Langhe it plays second fiddle to Nebbiolo, which is typically awarded the warmest spots. ‘Barbera is to Asti what Nebbiolo is to the Langhe,’ proclaims Stefano Chiarlo at Michele Chiarlo in Asti. It is no coincidence that Barbera d’Asti brags DOCG status, whereas Barbera d’Alba does not.

This isn’t to say that there aren’t excellent examples of Barbera from the Langhe, or that it doesn’t have respect among producers there. ‘We adore Barbera,’ asserts Luisa Rocca at the Bruno Rocca estate in the Barbaresco zone. ‘The first piece of vineyard that my father bought was Fausoni – an extremely desirable plot precisely because it also included a small amount of Barbera.’ This cru is characterised by Barbaresco’s famous Sant’Agata fossil marls and the soils are much older than at the estate’s Asti vineyard – while Bruno Rocca’s Barbera d’Asti is vibrant and elegant, the Barbera d’Alba reveals darker fruit and less marked acidity.

The most powerful examples of Barbera hail from the Barolo area. Giacomo Conterno’s renowned Cerretta and Francia bottlings take on the formidable structure that characterises the Barolos from these Serralunga d’Alba crus.

‘To make good Barbera, you have to sacrifice some Barolo vines,’ says Luca Currado at Vietti, in Cuneo. Not only did he and his father preserve a now 100-year-old plot of Barbera vines in the Scarrone cru, they pulled up some Nebbiolo to plant more. Other widely known Barberas from the Barolo zone include Roberto Voerzio’s Vigna Pozzo from Rocche dell’Annunziata and Elvio Cogno’s 120-year-old pre-phylloxera Barbera above La Morra.

The soil speaks

Across the Tanaro river, Roero’s Barbera d’Albas are more lissom than those from the Langhe. ‘Here, the soil is richer in sand, giving finesse, sapidity and readiness to drink,’ explains Ornella Correggia at Matteo Correggia. According to cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti, who has mapped out many of Piedmont’s zones, Roero possesses the same ‘Astiane’ sand as Monferrato. ‘This is why Barbera does well there,’ he says.

Nevertheless, Roero’s Barbera d’Albas often demonstrate greater concentration and body than most Barbera d’Astis.

On the lighter soils of Monferrato, Barbera d’Asti is a wonderful source of lovely unoaked, juicy Barbera. It also includes a Superiore category, which captures more robust oaked examples, as ageing requirements include a minimum of six months in barrel.

The vast denomination stretches over 167 communes, along with inevitable variations in soil. ‘Not all of Monferrato is Astiane sand,’ Masnaghetti explains. There are pockets of calcareous marls that are rich in calcium carbonate, giving deeper, sturdier wines. Extensive studies have led to the recognition of three distinct sub-zones: Colli Astiani, Tinella and Nizza. While the first two are rather obscure, Nizza is undoubtedly Barbera’s greatest success story.

Promoted from being a sub-zone to its own separate DOCG in 2014, Nizza sits south of the Tanaro river in Alessandria. It encompasses 18 villages historically recognised for producing exceptional Barbera. The region boasts a critical mass of quality-minded producers and has also attracted prominent Langhe estates, including Gianni Gagliardo, Oddero and Vietti.

Among all the Barbera denominations, Nizza has the most stringent production regulations. Maximum yields are 49hl/ha, as opposed to 63hl/ha for Barbera d’Asti. To compare, Barolo’s maximum yields are 56hl/ha. Nizza’s vineyards sit between 150m-350m above sea level and only those with a south, southwest or southeast exposure are permitted to use the Nizza name for their wines. It is also the only denomination to require 100% Barbera – the rest stipulate a more flexible 85%-90% minimum.

Nizza’s wines will necessarily demonstrate some wood influence as the mandatory ageing period of 18 months requires at least six to be in barrel. For Nizza Riserva, this increases to 30 and 12 months respectively. Terrific examples from Bersano, Michele Chiarlo and Olim Bauda prove it is possible to manage the oak deftly.

Barbera wines: standout producers

Accornero Palpably committed to making complex and characterful Monferrato Barbera.

Giacomo Conterno Undeniably the reference for powerful, ageworthy, Barolo-esque Barbera.

Michele Chiarlo Veteran champions of Barbera as well as the Asti zone, the Chiarlo family has been an important driver of quality.

Olim Bauda Fantastic quality, from entry level to top of the range.

Vietti Making consistently excellent Barbera from the Alba and Asti regions, Vietti has significant holdings of old vines in both.

Styles to explore

To add to the litany of Barbera appellations, Barbera del Monferrato DOC overlaps the Barbera d’Asti zone. It allows for frizzante or lightly sparkling (vivace) versions, which account for almost one-third of the production (according to the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato). The separate DOCG of Barbera del Monferrato Superiore is exclusively for still reds and has similar wood-ageing requirements as Barbera d’Asti Superiore.

At the Accornero estate in Vignale, where the Barbera d’Asti and Barbera del Monferrato DOCs converge, the Accornero family chooses to label its wines as the latter. ‘Vignale is the capital of Monferrato,’ says Patrizia Accornero. ‘Our soil is rich in marine sediment from older geological eras and identified as pietra da cantone.’ The calcareous clay gives deeply coloured, structured Barbera that need a bit of time to come around.

‘Barbera is a flexible and wide-ranging variety,’ says Chiarlo. It produces a serviceable wine even at generous crop levels, which supported its reputation as a workhorse grape. But quality is another story. ‘Only with limited production does Barbera give wines with complexity and structure,’ says Gianni Bertolino at Olim Bauda. He crops his Barbera to no more than 49hl/ha, even for young, unoaked wines.

For the finest Barbera, old vines have long been prized as they naturally curb this variety’s prolific tendencies. More recently, low-vigour rootstock, and new high-quality clones with smaller bunches, have significantly improved results with younger vines. Yet some argue that low yields have resulted in excessively opulent and alcoholic Barbera lacking elegance. Chiarlo disagrees. ‘It gives more character, length and terroir expression – provided that the grapes are picked at the right time,’ he asserts.

Approachable in youth

Maintaining balance is an ongoing challenge for Barbera. Though it prefers the heat, rising alcohol levels are a factor with vintages that are hotter than ever. Bertolini remains undaunted, despite alcohol levels of 14.5%-15%. ‘The acidity is also increasing, and this allows the wines to preserve their drinkability,’ he claims.

This is one of Barbera’s signature attributes – because it doesn’t have masses of tannins in need of softening, it is generally approachable from day one. Nevertheless, its bracing acidity can keep it fresh and exuberant for two or three years, and those wines built with more structure and concentration can be tucked away for five to eight years.

When considering Barbera for the cellar, choose the best vintages: typically, warmer years from moderate-yielding, superior vineyard sites. Even then, only very few will last out a decade. Of course, there are always surprises.

When I had the opportunity to try it recently, Giacomo Bologna’s Bricco dell’Uccellone 1989 was still remarkably deep in colour. It was a savoury mix of macerated fruit, forest undergrowth and tar – and the oak had retreated. Nevertheless, I still prefer to drink my Barbera younger.

While Barbera’s suitability for the cellar may be up for debate, its place at the table is not. ‘Barbera is the most gastronomic wine of Italy,’ declares Currado. I have spent countless trips in Piedmont tasting Nebbiolo all day and drinking Barbera with dinner.’

‘You put it on the table and finish the bottle,’ says Rocca, listing off her favourite matches: tajarin (the Piedmont version of tagliatelle), ravioli al tovagliolo, risotto with Castelmagno cheese, rabbit, roast sausages, a barbecue…

Barbera is as food-friendly as it is hunger-inducing, and that’s a badge of honour it wears with pride.

Michaela Morris’ top Barbera wines

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Wine Legend: Bruno Giacosa, Asili Barbaresco Riserva 2004, Piedmont, Italy

• Bottles produced 14,040
• Composition 100% Nebbiolo
• Yield 40hl/ha
• Alcohol 14.5%
• Release price $210
• Price today £570

A legend because…

Born in 1929, Bruno Giacosa began working with his winemaker father Mario – his grandfather Carlo had also produced and bottled wines in their home town of Neive. His initial career was as a merchant, sourcing the best grapes for other producers, but inevitably Giacosa wanted to produce wines under his own label, which he began doing in 1961. He was able to identify what he considered the finest plot and his portfolio grew – the most highly esteemed vineyards, including Asili, were the source of his celebrated red-label riservas. Giacosa, unhappy with the treatment- heavy farming practices of the 1970s, started buying outstanding vineyards to give himself maximum control over the entire production process. A perfectionist, he refused to bottle or release wines that he considered even slightly below the standard he set.

Looking back

Giacosa bought his best parcel of Asili in 1996, and other Barbaresco vineyards in Rabajà; the wine from the latter ceased to be made from 2007 on after boundary changes allowed the Rabajà grapes to be used in the Asili wine. In 2013, Giacosa bought 0.5ha of Rabajà, so in that year a limited production of the wine resumed. Asili, however, remains one of the most sought-after wines in the range. Giacosa made the 2004, but a stroke in 2006 required a very long convalescence. Some vintages that followed were made by other winemakers hired by Giacosa and his daughter Bruna, notably Dante Scaglione, who had worked at Giacosa’s side for many years. Giacosa still kept an eye on wine production until his death in 2018.

The vintage

A mild summer followed a wet spring, and the end of the season in September and early October was dry. Growers in both Barbaresco and Barolo were thrilled with a vintage that delivered an abundant crop as well as exceptional quality. Voluptuous on release, the wines had sufficient acidity to give them finesse, while bold tannins gave some structure. However, 10 years later doubts had arisen, and both critics and producers noted that many wines were ageing more quickly than expected.

The terroir

Sheltered and warm, the 14ha Asili vineyard lies at 200m-280m in the commune of Barbaresco. Silty loam and sand, as well as clay, are important components in the vineyard, and Giacosa believed they accounted for the wine’s incomparable perfume and finesse.

The wine

Giacosa tried, whenever possible, to ferment his grapes using indigenous yeasts, although specially selected yeasts were employed when natural fermentations proved tricky. Vinification took two to three weeks in stainless steel tanks, while ageing took place in large casks of French oak: up to 18 months for the regular Asili, 24 for the riserva.

The reaction

James Suckling admired the wine in 2008: ‘Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and lots of fruit. Focused and very well done, but really tight at the moment.’ Stephen Brook wrote in 2010: ‘Sweet, intense, mint and raspberry nose, showing a light smokiness. Supple yet rich and full-bodied, this is very concentrated and still youthful, with fine acidity and spiciness. Very long.’

In 2016, Antonio Galloni reviewed the wine: ‘Easily one of the greatest wines Bruno Giacosa made during his long and distinguished career… the Asili Riserva is defined by its stunning inner sweetness, soaring aromatics and silky tannins. One of the attributes all great wines share is their ability to stimulate all the senses, from the intellectual to the hedonistic. The 2004 Asili riserva hits all the right spots and then some. This is just about as good as it gets.’

See all Wine Legends here

Barbera is the perfect match for simple foods at Piedmont trattoria or osteria, but it’s not just the restaurant-going locals that have overlooked this grape – leading vintners in the region have regularly disparaged it too.

Early in his career, Luca Currado, winemaker at Vietti, remembers his father telling him that Barbera was a good way of honing his skills, as few would even notice if he spoiled what was considered a lowly table wine. ‘Work on Barbera, so you can ruin your first wine,’ he quipped, only half-joking.

But times are changing: producers in several districts in the region now treat Barbera with a great deal more reverence, as they craft ‘serious’ versions of this wine worthy of cellaring.

Scroll down to see Tom Hyland’s top 10 quality Barberas from Piedmont

Piedmont’s most planted variety remains the ideal partner for a humble lunch, especially when the antipasti consists of local salumi. Barbera’s fresh acidity cuts right through the fat of meats such as these, while its soft tannins make the wine instantly approachable.

Many examples are fermented and aged in stainless steel, which highlights the plummy characteristics of the variety, while other offerings, aged in large wooden casks, are more rustic in nature (ideal for strongly flavoured pastas). But the basic concept of Barbera being an everyday staple in the region is one that will continue as long as producers work with the grape.

Local rivalry

In the late 1970s and early ’80s, a small group of Asti-based producers believed that Barbera offered greater potential. This belief may have originated in a feeling of insecurity: Asti lacked the fame of the neighbouring province of Alba, where the Nebbiolo grape flourished in Barolo and Barbaresco. The best sites in Asti were less suitable for the production of age-worthy Nebbiolo, so growers settled upon Barbera as their grape of choice. While it made viticultural sense, the best versions of Barbera failed to capture the grandeur – and the lofty ratings – of the finest Nebbiolo offerings.

The late Giacomo Bologna was one of the most influential in elevating the image of Barbera. In the small village of Rocchetta Tanaro, the family’s Braida estate produced just one style of Barbera until the late 1970s – a frizzante named La Monella. His daughter Raffaella, who currently manages Braida with her brother Giuseppe, notes that this wine is still produced, and loved by area residents.

‘It is a contemporary wine with historic roots and is still very popular in Piedmont as a wine that is fun and delicious, especially when paired with traditional rustic foods such as fried anchovies or bollito misto.’

Breaking the mould

Bologna decided he could produce wines of ‘greater longevity, structure and elegance’. After years of experimentation, in 1984 he released a single-vineyard 1982 Barbera named Bricco dell’Uccellone. The fruit was harvested more than a week later than usual and matured in oak barriques rather than large casks, marking a radical departure – it divided opinion within the winemaking community, recalls Raffaella: ‘It was controversial around Italy. Winemakers were split 50/50 traditionalist versus revolutionary.’

The wine received critical acclaim from the wine press and Bologna soon introduced another single-vineyard Barbera, Bricco della Bigotta, which was followed up with a superripe style, Ai Suma. More than 35 years since the first Bricco dell’Uccellone, Braida remains one of most accomplished Barbera producers, and Giacomo Bologna’s legacy will remain intrinsically linked with this variety.

It wasn’t long before other Asti producers sought to emulate Bologna’s success with Barbera, combining late-picked grapes and maturation in small oak barrels. Late harvesting posed no problem for Barbera due to its naturally high acidity levels, but many producers were over-zealous with oak, using a high percentage (more than 50%) of small new oak barrels for their new releases. This often resulted in wines that may have offered flash and sizzle early on, but lacked harmony and finesse, soon drying out.

While much attention is paid to Barbera from Asti, there is important work being undertaken in Alba. In the village of Vergne, above the town of Barolo, lies the Viberti estate. Winemaker Claudio Viberti produces several Barbera wines, and has introduced higher density planting since 2006 in an effort to make more intense and complex wines. He also employs shorter pruning which, he claims, ‘forces the vines to produce fewer bunches of grapes’, and has adopted new clones that result in lower vigour. He matures the wines in the same 5,000-litre casks that he uses for Barolo, and the result of this oak regime in combination with his meticulous viticulture is a serious Piedmont red. A single sip of one his Bricco Airoli wines should be enough to convince any sceptics of Barbera’s credentials.

Visionary producers

It is a short drive to the city of Alba where Pio Boffa, proprietor of Pio Cesare, sings the praises of Barbera, while emphasising the importance of site. ‘Our Barbera is planted in top vineyard locations – in both the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations – in order to produce a very serious and elegant wine.’

His signature Barbera, Fides, is based on a single-clone vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, which Boffa planted with his father in 1991. Fides is Latin for faith, which the Boffas placed in Barbera rather than the more respected and more lucrative Nebbiolo grape. While the 2015 vintage is sophisticated, silken and ageworthy, the vineyard has since succumbed to disease. From the 2017, Fides will be sourced entirely from a vineyard in the neighbouring Monforte d’Alba commune. Boffa believes the wine will be just as good, ‘if not more refined’.

Clearly the path ahead for Barbera is now paved, thanks to the efforts of visionary producers across Piedmont. The variety has come a long way from its role as a simple osteria wine, as examples from Nizza and beyond offer complexity and ageing potential. Admittedly, there is still work to be done to maintain the momentum generated by Bologna and other trailblazers, but there is a buzz of positivity, as Boffa concludes: ‘The quality of Barbera has grown a lot in the last 25 years. All the producers of our region are emphasising the quality and authenticity of the grape. We predict it has a great future.’

Best of Barbera: Nizza DOCG

In a sign of the times, Barbera’s rising star has led to the creation of a tightly controlled denominazione dedicated to the variety.

The Nizza DOCG could perhaps be seen as the culmination of Giacomo Bologna’s early work, seeking the perfect place for Barbera in the Asti province. ‘Nizza is the grand cru of Barbera,’ says Stefano Chiarlo, winemaker at his father’s eponymous estate Michele Chiarlo. ‘In the future, it will be the third Piedmont appellation, with Barolo and Barbaresco, for ageworthy reds.’

At their best, the wines made under the Nizza banner are powerful. Despite the variety’s lack of tannin, these wines have the stuffing and structure to age for more than a decade. That’s likely down to tight boundaries and stringent regulations to qualify for the designation.

High-density planting and low yields are a must in the vineyard, and the wines must be matured for 18 months, six of which must be in barrel. Most Nizza wines are matured in small oak, but the woody flavours are generally well integrated.

Since 2014, the Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza DOCG status has been replaced by Nizza Superiore DOCG, meaning the grape variety does not even have to be listed on the label. In effect, the lawmakers and wine producers hope that the word Nizza will become synonymous with quality Barbera, just as Barolo’s identity is infused with Nebbiolo.

Tom Hyland is a Chicago-based wine writer and educator with a particular interest in Italian wines. He is the author of The Wines and Foods of Piemonte (CreateSpace, 2017).

See Tom Hyland’s top 10 quality Barberas from Piedmont

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Bruno Giacosa, one of the leading lights of Piedmont for several decades, has died in hospital at the age of 88.

Bruno Giacosa died during the night of Sunday 21 January, in Alba’s San Lazzaro hospital, aged 88 years old, according to Italian news outlets. He had reportedly been burdened with ill health for some time.

Giacosa had attained legendary status in Piedmont – as well as across Italy and beyond – having been part of a new wave of winemakers in the region.

‘One of Italy’s greatest wine producers of all time’

He had bought fruit and bottled Barolo and Barbaresco wines since the 1960s, but Giacosa acquired his own vineyard in 1982. His Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba would go on to become one of the finest crus of the Langhe.

He would later buy Barbaresco vineyards, mostly in Neive, and other prime Barolo parcels, including in La Morra, while also managing vineyards owned by other growers.

From his first apprenticeship at his family winery, Giacosa had showed his propensity for breaking with tradition; he selected bought-in grapes and bottled on the basis of vineyards’ sites.

Giacosa was featured in Richard Baudains’ ‘Italian icons’ article in the February 2018 issue of Decanter Magazine.

‘Behind those dark-rimmed spectacles lies one of Italy’s greatest wine producers of all time,’ wrote Baudains.

‘Giacosa once said that he preferred his wines to speak for him and this perhaps explains his legendary perfectionism.

‘He will never bottle a wine until he considers it ready and will never bring out a vintage unless it completely convinces him, which makes the release of the Vigna La Roche Riserva a truly iconic event.’

He was perhaps most-celebrated for his red-labelled riservas, highlighted as some of the most masterly expressions of Langhe’s regions.

His artful handling of the indigenous Arneis grape has also earned him wide acclaim for his white Roero wines.

Michaela Morris, Italian wine expert and Decanter contributor, told Decanter.com, ‘He had a keen ability to source the very best grapes and was a pioneer of cru bottlings. On a personal level, his wines have contributed equally to my education as they have to my sheer drinking pleasure.

‘His Arneis was the first I ever tried and has always been my reference for this grape. I have been lucky enough to taste examples of his Barolo and Barbaresco going back to 1975. The most memorable bottle was his 1978 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva Speciale. It was served to me blind about 6 years ago and I almost wept for its sheer haunting beauty. When the wine was revealed I believe I did.’

Later years

No Barolo or Barbarescos were bottled from the 2006 vintage, a decision made in 2009 because Giacosa was ‘not satisfied that the Barolos and the Barbarescos produced meet his exacting standards’.

Giacosa had also suffered a stroke in 2006, which had left him unable to properly judge the quality of the wines for some time.

His two daughters, Bruna and Marina, rose to the task of aiding their father in running the estate during his recovery. Winemaker Dante Scaglione left his long-held position at the winery in 2008 to create a consultancy, to be replaced by oenologist Giorgio Lavagna. But Scaglione again started to work with Giacosa from 2011 onwards.

Bruna Giacosa has become known for building on her father’s commitment to single vineyard wines.

The team has so far eschewed 225-litre barriques in the cellar, popular among more modernist producers, but did switch from Slavonian to French oak.

In 2015, Ian D’Agata cited Bruno Giacosa, along with Angelo Gaja, as Babaresco’s leading luminaries.

He credited Giacosa’s 1971 Santo Stefano Barbaresco Riserva Speciale as ‘Italy’s best-ever wine’.

In 2012, Pollen’s University of Gastronomic Sciences awarded Bruno Giacosa the first Honoris Causa degree in its history, with the praise of his peers, Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini and fellow winemaker Angelo Gaja.

Updated 8:30am on 23 January UK time to include comments from Michaela Morris.

Additional editing by Chris Mercer.

Barolo producer Gianni Gagliardo winery has ended its two-year search for a Barbera-producing wine estate in the newly created Nizza DOCG zone after acquiring Tenuta Garetto.

Family-owned Gianni Gagliardo has purchased the 15-hectare Tenuta Garetto in the commune of Nizza Monferrato in Piedmont. A fee was not disclosed.

It marks the latest in a string of winery deals across France and Italy in recent weeks.

Garetto produces Barbera wines under the Nizza DOCG, only created in late 2014, as well as under the banners of Barbera d’Asti DOCG and Barbera d’Asti Superiore.

‘A couple of years ago we started to explore opportunities,’ Stefano Gagliardo told Decanter.com.

He said that Nizza combines two important elements; organised producers and well-suited soil.

‘The position [of the vineyards] and the soils are simply fantastic to grow Barbera,’ he said.

‘It is unquestionable that most of the best expressions of this grape are from that specific corner of Piedmont. With my brothers, we do see a strong similarity between Barolo and Nizza. In both cases there is a special connection of grape variety and place.’

He added that the organisation of producers is also impressive.

‘The new appellation shows that there is a group of intelligent producers that are keen to join forces and are looking to the future.’

Gagliardo said that he and his brothers ‘fell in love’ with Garetto when they saw the estate. ‘We have great old vines there, superb soil and exposure.’

Nizza caused some division during a recent Barbera panel tasting discussion at Decanter. It is early days for the new appellation, but Andrea Briccarello worried that it might confuse wine lovers as much as help them.

Susan Hulme MW said that she recognised a stylistic difference in Nizza wines, although she found those submitted to the tasting a little ‘more demanding’.

More articles like this: 

See what our judges thought about Barbera d'Asti in this panel tasting from the May 2017 issue of Decanter magazine...

From fresh, unoaked wines to more serious, complex examples – including from the new Nizza DOCG – there’s great interest and value to be had, says John Stimpfig.

The scores:

90 wines tasted

Exceptional – 0

Outstanding – 3

Highly Recommended – 28

Recommended – 37

Commended – 17

Fair – 4

Poor – 1

Faulty – 0

How to read Decanter wine scores

The judges:

Andrea Briccarello, Michael Garner & Susan Hulme MW

Click here to view the tasting notes and scores for all 90 Barbera d’Asti tasted

Wine lovers now appreciate that Barbera d’Asti is much more than a simple, fresh red, and that the top wines have a very distinctive character. The tasters agreed there was also a positive ‘halo effect’ from Barbera’s association with the top Barbaresco and Barolo producers.

The wines below represent the five best scoring wines in the tasting.

Top Barbera d’Asti wines of the tasting:

For the full article, subscribe to Decanter magazine – available in print and digital.

The vintages

Barbera may be versatile, but vintage still matters. The panel expected the 2015s to shine and, by and large, they did – very brightly – with lovely ripeness and juicy

freshness. By contrast, the 2014s were more lean and acidic, but still ventured several very good examples. Whilst Hulme enjoyed the impressive 2013s, not all lived up to the vintage’s very good reputation. The 2012s from that hot, dry year were a notch or two lower.

Winemaking

All three experts were also in unison on winemaking quality, which was both high and consistent, with few faults and good balance. Inevitably, though, the issues of

oak treatment and alcohol cropped up in the discussion. Equally inevitably, there were wines which the panel felt overwrought. ‘Some winemakers think that because

Barbera is a bit of a chameleon, you can do whatever you want to it,’ noted Briccarello. ‘The danger in that is you overdo the oak or create a tannic Cabernet

Sauvignon feel to the wine which doesn’t work because it is not really authentic.’

Nizza

Several of the most ambitious wines came from the new Nizza DOCG, which did show more depth and concentration. Interestingly, this flight split the panel. Garner felt too many were ‘a little overdone’. Briccarello also wondered whether this new appellation really helped consumers or just ended up confusing them. By contrast, Hulme argued that the Nizza wines had something different to say and were a bit more ‘demanding’, which she recognised and admired.

In Piedmont, it is much loved by the locals. It is the wine they drink every day with dinner, with friends, in the summer lightly chilled; in the winter, the richer styles offer warmth and comfort.

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Top Barolo & Barbaresco producers

During 30 years of visiting the Barolo area, I’ve witnessed the shift from old-school wines to more modern styles.

My early headquarters was a hotel in Monforte – essentially a bar with rooms – and in the morning I’d grab an espresso and find the likes of Domenico Clerico doing the same. He and others were then the young guns of Barolo, and today they’re the elder statesmen.

• Underrated Barolo crus: Five to try

Even after three decades I feel I’m just scratching the surface here: there are too many crus and producers to get to know. If you think Burgundy is complicated, try mastering the hills and slopes of Barolo. In compiling this list of producers, I don’t pretend they are necessarily the top wineries.

Instead, this is a blend of outstanding producers and personal favourites. Call it a sentimental list if you wish, but sentiment and friendship play their part in fashioning our palates.

• A tour of Barolo vineyards

Wine is more than a glass on a tasting bench. In any event you won’t find any mediocre wines emanating from the cellars cited on the pages that follow.

I don’t have a stylistic bias, and believe the distinction between traditional and modernist is increasingly artificial. So Elio Altare and Angelo Gaja can be cited alongside Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Rinaldi, even though they represent opposing schools stylistically.

Indeed many top producers, such as Scavino, raid both schools to fashion their own wines in a harmonious but individual style.

Nor am I fiercely opposed to the use of new oak, so long as it’s not the wine’s dominant component. In any case, ludicrously overoaked wines are becoming scarce. What I seek in a fine Barolo or Barbaresco is finesse, which is notoriously difficult to achieve with a grape variety exuding acidity, tannin and alcohol.

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Producer profile: Bartolo Mascarello

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Producer profile: Bruno Giacosa

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Producer profile: Elio Altare

An advantage to Altare's wines is that they were accessible younger...

Producer profile: Enrico Rivetto

Rivetto is typical of a new generation of enthusiastic and inquisitive growers...

Producer profile: GD Vajra

Producer profile: Giacomo Conterno

Giovanni Conterno was an arch-traditionalist...

Producer profile: Giorgio Pelissero

Pelissero is an unashamed modernist...

Producer profile: Massolino

Serralunga is home to some first-rate local winemakers, including Massolino...

Producer profile: Paolo Scavino

Enrico Scavino's wine career began at just 11 years old...

Producer Profile: Produttori del Barbaresco

Each wine is made in the same way...

See Decanter.com's bitesize guide to Barbera, including Barbera d'Asti DOC wines. You'll be an expert in no time...

What is Barbera…?

• Barbera is a low tannin, red grape variety that has been cultivated in the region of Piedmont, north-west Italy, since at least the 13th century.

• Barbera produces youthful wines bursting with red and black fruits.

• Wine lovers should not confuse it with Barbaresco, a DOCG wine made from Nebbiolo

Barbera’s natural high acidity can be out-of-balance in cheaper bottles from high yielding vineyards.

But the best examples are of high quality and most critics consider them to be excellent everyday wines. These include wines of Barbera d’Asti DOC.

Did you know: The Casale Monferrato Cathedral in Piedmont contains the first known documented planting of Barbera, which was in the 13th Century.

Food

Thanks to low tannins and high acidity, Barbera is often a fantastic match for the rich cuisine Piedmont is renowned for.

• Drink it with: Mushroom Agnolotti | Red cabbage and apples

Barbera commonly grows on the lower slopes of this hilly region. This is because winemakers and growers usually reserve the most desirable locations higher up for Nebbiolo.

More and more Barbera is now spending some time in oak. This is because producers want to add complexity, as well as an appealing vanilla signature to their wines.

• 12 of the best Barbera d’asti wines

Barbera is currently the most widely planted grape in Piedmont.

Barbera’s popularity has also spread outside of its native region. Producers and growers use it as far afield as Argentina, California and Australia.

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Gaia Gaja, daughter of renowned winemaker Angelo Gaja, said she and her siblings, Rossana and Giovanni, have chosen to take the three red wines back under the Barbaresco appellation umbrella.

The wines, Costa Russi, Sorì Tildin and Sorì San Lorenzo, will be labelled as appellation Barbaresco DOP – equivalent to DOCG under new EU rules – from the 2013 vintage release.

It means that all must be made with 100% Nebbiolo grapes.

• SEE: Barbaresco wine reviews on Decanter.com

Since the 1996 vintage, the wines have used the ‘Langhe’ denomination, after Angelo Gaja decided that they would benefit from up to 15% of Barbera grapes in the final blend.

‘Every generation has its own path to follow and has the right to do things in its own way,’ Gaia Gaja told Decanter.com.

‘Above all [with this decision], we want to pursue the pure expression of the Nebbiolo variety,’ she said.

It was not a decision taken against her father’s will, she added. ‘It’s a decision we long thought about and to which we’ve come thanks also to the support of our father [Angelo Gaja].’

• READ: Barbaresco versus Barolo – ‘things are starting to change’

Gaia Gaja said her father originally detached the wines from the Barbaresco appellation in order to produce them as they were before 1966, when the Barbaresco DOC appellation was born and included the 100% Nebbiolo rule.

Barbaresco did not get DOCG status – the highest level of Italy’s appellation system – until 1980.

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Angelo Gaja interview

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Barbaresco wine: first among equals

It’s time for Piedmont’s ‘other’ great Nebbiolo wine to stop being seen as the perennial bridesmaid to Barolo, says Ian

The ever-popular Barbera grape is grown in many regions of Italy, but it is most at home in Piedmont. Ian D'Agata picks 12 great examples for the summer.

Barbera d’Asti is one of Italy’s most popular wine grapes, grown not just in Piedmont but in many regions of Italy, including Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Lazio and Campania. In fact, Barbera is the sixth most-planted grape variety in Italy.

• See below for D’Agata’s 12 best Barbera d’Asti and Nizza wines

However, it is undoubtedly in Piedmont where the grape performs best. To put Barbera’s popularity in perspective, consider that 33% of Piedmont’s 45,000 hectares under vine are planted to Barbera.

Barbera d’Asti – a DOCG that boasts 3,915ha under vine and 2,456 producers, 30 of which are cooperatives – offers both very successful, oaked versions as well as precise, fruity reds aged in stainless steel only. Clearly, Barbera d’Asti Superiore is a bigger wine than Barbera d’Asti, made from selected grapes, and must be aged for at least six months in wood.

The sandy-marly-loamy hills of the Asti wine zone (named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014) are also the home of a small enclave called Nizza, one of three Barbera d’Asti sub-zones – the others are Tinella and Colli Astigiani. Of the three sub-zones, it is Nizza where the most ageworthy and arguably the best Barbera d’Asti is made. Previously called Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza, mercifully the name has now been shortened to just Nizza. The best wines are balanced and powerful, ageing well from eight to 10 years after the vintage.

Promising future

The only disappointing thing about Barbera d’Asti is that many wine lovers and experts are not aware of its high quality. The good news is that things appear to be looking up. The Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato, headed by the dynamic Filippo Mobrici, has been growing steadily, with 33 estates joining in 2015, the total number of members now exceeds 200. It all adds up to many more great tasting and drinking opportunities for wine lovers everywhere.

The following tasting of Barbera d’Asti and Nizza wines was conducted at the Enoteca Regionale di Nizza in January 2016, where samples were kindly gathered on my behalf. I tasted more than 70 wines and was not surprised to find wine quality very high across the bobaudaard. Wines tasted were of various vintages, including the fresh, high-acid 2014s, the richer, well- balanced 2013s, and the fleshy, opulent 2012s and 2011s, both of which were fairly warm years.

PIEDMONT: BUY, BUY, BUY!

featuring 134 Barlo 2010s rated and beautiful Barbaresco. Also Rhone 2013, North to South, our guide to the new vintage with the fifty best reds and whites. Plus the 2015 Decanter Man of the Year.

Inside the magazine this month: Barolo 2010 panel tasting, beautiful Barbaresco, Rhône 2013 and Decanter Man of the Year 2015…

Bounty of Barbaresco: It’s time for Piedmont’s ‘other’ great Nebbiolo wine to stop being seen as the bridesmaid to Barolo, says Ian D’Agata

Man of the Year: Alvaro Palacios: Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW meets the man credited with putting Spain on the fine wine map in Priorat, Bierzo and Rioja

Producer profile: Feudi di San Gregorio: Carla Capalbo visits a standardbearer for southern Italian wine

Interview: Tim Mondavi & Lamberto Frescobaldi: Stephen Brook meets the sons of the men who started the Luce joint venture in Montalcino

Vintage report: Rhône 2013: It will pay to be choosy in this vintage, but James Lawther MW has done the hard work for you

Regional profile: Great Southern: Only now is this Western Australian region being appreciated, says Sarah Ahmed

Asset or flaw?: ‘Faults’ can add character to wine, says Natasha Hughes MW

Spurrier’s vineyard: Decanter’s Steven Spurrier tells John Livingstone-Learmonth about his English sparkling wine venture Bride Valley, in Dorset

Rosso di Montalcino: 56 wines tasted, 2 Outstanding: A fantastic set of results which bodes well for this Tuscan DOC’s future, say our experts

Barolo 2012: 134 wines tasted, 3 Outstanding: Critics have heaped praise on this vintage – so would they live up to the hype here?

Expert’s choice: Douro new releases: Snap up these 2012 reds and 2013 whites, boasting intensity, freshness and grace, says Sarah Ahmed

Travel: Puglia: You’re never far from the sea or vines here, says Carla Capalbo

Vineyards used to produce Barolo and Barbaresco DOCG wines in Italy's Piedmont region have been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.

Image credit: Consortium for Barolo and Barbaresco

The World Heritage Committee of the United Nations body, meeting in Doha this week, added the ‘vineyard landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato’ to its elite group of cultural and natural sites and practices.

The listing includes the towns of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Novello and Serralunga d’Alba in the Barolo DOCG, as well as Barbaresco and Neive in the Barbaresco DOCG.

There are now 1,007 sites on UNESCO‘s list and Piedmont vineyards now join Bordeaux’s Saint Emilion and traditional Georgian winemaking methods in representing wine.

‘It’s about time,’ said David Berry Green, Italian wine buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd and who lives in Piedmont. He described the Langhe as the ‘world’s last undiscovered fine wine region’.

He told Decanter.com, ‘Importantly, this should encourage producers to take responsibility for their immediate environment, persuading them to adapt more environmentally friendly viticultural practices, indeed to aim for organic status. A stop to the still widespread use of herbicide would be an obvious start.’

In its submission for Piedmont, Italy’s government said, ‘Vine pollen has been found in the area dating from the 5th Century BC’. It added that Piedmont was seen as one of the best vine growing areas in Italy during the Roman Empire.

Pietro Ratti, president of the local Consortium for Barolo and Barbaresco, said the listing gives ‘proper recognition’ to winemakers who have preserved the region’s landscape and respected its traditions.

Piedmont’s listing bodes well for both Champagne and Burgundy, which were earlier this year proposed for World Heritage status by the French government. A decision is expected in 2015.

Written by Chris Mercer

Celebrated Barbaresco wine producer Angelo Rocca has died in a plane crash.

Celebrated Barbaresco wine producer Angelo Rocca, of the family firm Albino Rocca, has died in a plane crash.

Rocca, 64, was piloting his own light plane not far from the Piedmont city of Alessandria when his plane crashed into a field just metres from the A21 Highway.

According to reports, there was dense fog yesterday in the area at the time of the crash, although the exact reasons for the accident are unknown. Rocca’s companion, Carmen Mazza, also perished in the accident.

Albino Rocca’s lauded Barbarescos, Ronchi, Ovello Vigna Loreto and Vigneto Brich Ronchi Riserva, are some of the most acclaimed in the denomination.

Angelo Rocca’s small plane had become a fixture in the skies above Barbaresco, and he was a passionate pilot who also loved fast cars. ‘He lived life the fullest,’ said Aldo Vacca, director of Produttori del Barbaresco. ‘Most people in Barbaresco are closed and reserved, but Angelo was full of life, and was incredibly outgoing and generous. He was always willing to lend a hand to other producers. We’ll miss him.’

‘Besides being a great winemaker, Angelo had an intense energy and was always on the go,’ said fellow producer Bruno Rocca, no relation to Angelo. ‘He had a very innovative spirit, and always wanted to try new things. His death is a great loss to Barbaresco.’

Angelo Rocca leaves behind three grown daughters, Daniela, Monica and Paola, who all work at the firm.

Written by Kerin O’Keefe

Italy’s northwestern zone of Alba is so intrinsically linked with Barolo wines that its winemakers often become transfixed. Now they’re starting to realise there’s more to life than Nebbiolo – Barbera and Dolcetto for a start. RICHARD BAUDAINS takes up the story.

Alba lies in the heart of Piedmont, home to many of Italy’s greatest red wines. It is also responsible for a lot of excellent, lesser known ones besides. Set on the river Tanaro, the town gives its name to a DOC which extends over the whole of the Langhe and Roero hills and includes in its orbit the DOCG zones of Barolo and Barbaresco. The hierarchy is pretty much set in stone. Barolo wines are more than ever the king of Alba wines, not for reasons of divine right, but because it is simply the best and most dynamic denomination. Production is growing (some fear too much and too fast, but that is another issue) but quality has never been so consistent nor the pool of top-class producers so large.

As for winemaking styles, after a decade of hammer-and-tongs discussion about the relative merits of the so-called modern and traditional schools, the two seem to be converging. The modernists and traditionalists have learned from each other over the last 10 years. Winemakers who favour long maceration and ageing in big barrels these days pay a lot more attention to the quality of their tannins and the purity of aromas. Equally, many previously progressive thinkers are retreating from hyper-extracted colours and simplistic fruit towards more authentic terroir character.

The bigger and better Barolo wines get, the more difficult it seems to be for Barbaresco to emerge from the shadow of its illustrious neighbour, which is a great pity. Barbaresco might be a lighter and subtler rendition of Nebbiolo, but this does not make it any less interesting. It has to be said, however, that in comparison with Barolo, overall quality is less consistent. Recent years have added very few new names to the list of consolidated leaders, though producers on the up include Marchesi di Gresy, Cigliuti, Paitin and Bruno Rocca.

There was a time in the late 1990s when it looked as if Nebbiolo was going to progressively oust other traditional varieties from the Langhe. Fortunately producers are rediscovering the value of a diversified production. Barbera d’Alba, with its dark purple shades and intense plummy fruit, is the biggest and fullest flavoured of the many wines made from this widely planted variety. Definitively promoted out of the everyday drinking category, nowadays top producers lavish it with man-hours in the vineyard and new oak in the winery.

Dolcetto could be going the same way. Traditionally it has always been considered an antipasto and first-course wine, bottled early and drunk within the year. This model is being challenged, in particular by the wines from the specialist production area of Dogliani.

This village, on the edge of the Barolo zone, has its own DOC for the variety and the upgrade to DOCG is on the way for its Barolo wines. Bigger and more firmly structured than other Dolcettos, Dogliani wines are often aged in wood. Nicoletta Bocca of San Fereolo defends the style: ‘It is not a question of wanting to ape Nebbiolo, but simply of treating the variety with respect and giving the wine time to offer something else beyond simple fruit.’ In a region where prices are not always easy on the pocket, Dolcettos, whether Alba or Dogliani, can offer outstanding value.

The other new DOCG in the pipeline is the fast-developing area of the Roero. The flag bearer is Arneis, the native white variety of these sandy hills on the right bank of the Tanaro. With production growing and quality steadily improving, this soft and delicate, candied fruit wine is threatening to become the white varietal of the region.

As for the reds, Roero produces (not very helpfully under the Alba DOC) a dry and floral style of Nebbiolo and Barbera which is lighter than the equivalent Barolo wines of the Langhe. Straight Roero is a monovarietal Nebbiolo which could soon be challenging for a place alongside Barolo and Barbaresco.

KEY PLAYERS

Giacomo Conterno, Monforte

Thirty-something Roberto Conterno has taken over the mantle of his father Giovanni without compromising an inch on the philosophy of this historic estate. There may be computer-controlled fermentation tanks in the cellar but the canons of artisan winemaking which Roberto has inherited are respected to the letter. He sees himself as a custodian of tradition, which he defines as ‘the maximum respect for the variety and the terroir’, and is scathing about what he considers the dumbing down of authentic Barolo character. ‘Modern Barolo styles go towards the consumer,’ he says. ‘In the case of traditional wines it is the consumer who has to go towards the wine.’ Conterno’s monumental Barolo Riserva Monfortino was a cult wine long before the term was coined. Made from a severe selection of fruit from old vines at the Cascina Franca property at Serralunga, it is renowned for maceration times of 30–35 days, barrel ageing that lasts at least seven years and a potential for bottle ageing that only the fortunate few have the chance to appreciate.

Angelo Gaja, Barbaresco

The aura of designer exclusivity which surrounds Angelo Gaja makes it easy to lose sight of the fact that besides being a style icon he is also a producer of exceptionally fine wines. His Barbaresco, the only DOCG wine left in the range after the move to IGT labels in 1996, is consistently the top performer in Barbaresco, while the impeccable definition and personality of the Langhe Nebbiolo wines demonstrate that there is no contradiction between barriques and terroir. Sperss is structured, long and grippy with classic Serralunga liquorice at the end; Conteisa is broader, softer and more floral with a delicate vein of sweet fruit in the finish; Sorì San Lorenzo is silky and refined, Sorì Tildin fleshy and robust. Gaja’s wines are horrendously expensive, but if you can afford them, and provided you are not seduced into drinking them before they are ready, it is hard to imagine that they would ever disappoint.

Bruno Giacosa

Bruno Giacosa is a Piedmontese of the old stamp. Taciturn and almost painfully modest, getting a quote out of him is like trying to get a loan from a mafioso. When Signor Giacosa pours his wines for you it is tacitly understood that any comment on your part or his is entirely superfluous. His wines speak for themselves. Stylistically consistent and painstakingly crafted, Giacosa’s Barolo and Barbaresco single-vineyard selections are the pure expression of terroir. His top wines are the eagerly awaited riservas, which he brings out when he judges the vintage to be right. Of the current batch, the Barolo Riserva 2000 Rocche di Falletto has all the warmth and ripeness of the hot summer, while the stunning 2001 Barbaresco Riservas have the elegant aromas and tight concentration of what promises to be a very long-lived vintage. Besides the special-occasion wines, Giacosa also makes delicious, excellent-value versions of basic Langhe and Roero wines from Arneis to Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo.

Roberto Voerzio, La Morra

Roberto Voerzio practises a form of radical viticulture which makes him one of the true contemporary innovators of the Langhe. He plants Barbera at the unheard-of density of 8,000 units/ha and trains his Nebbiolo vines to produce five bunches and 500 grammes of fruit per plant. Voerzio’s natural habitat is the vineyard. In contrast to the passion with which he speaks about growing grapes, he shows little enthusiasm for discussing the finer points of his winemaking (which is nevertheless absolutely meticulous). He ferments in standard vats and tends towards long maceration. He uses barriques, but for the solely practical reason that, ‘vinifying lots of small parcels separately, you need the flexibility of small barrels’. From micro-plots dotted around the top cru sites of La Morra, Voerzio makes half a dozen single-vineyard Barolos and a cult status Barbera which is bottled exclusively in magnums. Voerzio’s latest project is a super riserva from newly acquired vineyards scheduled for release (‘If it is ready’) in 2013.

FIONA BECKETT finds the best accompaniment for a bottle of Barbera d'Asti.

Given its status as the most popular wine in Piedmont (and, according to a recent survey, the whole of Italy), most locals’ answer to the question ‘What does Barbera go with? would be ‘Everything’. Indeed it is a congenial wine for everyday drinking. But as our tasting showed there’s Barbera and Barbera – the light, juicy quaffable style and the more substantial bottles designed for ageing. Not to mention New Barbera, the new-wave versions that don’t taste much like Barbera at all.

On the spot

Barbera is perfect for what Italian food writer Anna del Conte describes as cucina borghese (bourgeois cooking) – substantial dishes such as paniscia, a robust rice, bean and vegetable stew and bollito misto (boiled meats). The Piedmontese are renowned for their spectacular range of antipasti and would drinker younger vintages with dishes such as bagna cauda (see recipe below), the region’s famous warm garlic and anchovy dip. Pasta dishes are less common than rice ones in this part of Italy but lighter styles suit most pasta dishes – and pizza – very well (locally it would be served with agnolotti (meat or spinach-stuffed ravioli [right]) or tajarin (fine egg noodles served with butter and truffles). Risotto would also be a popular choice – there is a dish called riso al Barbera (below) cooked with Barbera and porcini. Older vintages come into their own during the autumn when mushrooms, truffles and game dominate the menu. Barbera is a good match for cheese, too. Try the local Toma-style cheeses – and Castelmagno if you can get hold of it.

https://www.decanter.com/learn/risotto-wine-pairing-ask-decanter-411860/

Why not try…

Slightly fatty meat products including salami and other sausages, mountain ham, patés and terrines – Barbera’s marked acidity makes it a great match for these. It’s also curiously good with pork pies!

Most preparations of duck

Dishes including olives and/or capers

Seared tuna or swordfish with salsa verde

Combinations of meat and pastry or meat and cheese (eg steak and mushroom pie, lasagne and moussaka)

Robust bean dishes such as cassoulet

More modern fruit-driven styles work with mild to medium-hot curries..

…and hoisin sauce – so I’m told

Top-quality Barberas would be as good a choice as other fine reds for steak or roasts and for dishes with rich, winey sauces

Made in heaven

‘We do a wild duck dish (Anatra selvatica al forno) cooked in Amarone with lemon, orange, sage and celery and served with roasted celeriac carrots and fennel. The Bava, Arbest Barbera d’Asti 1997 is great with that.’ Ossie Gray, the River Café, London

‘I like lamb with Barbera. A simple roast of young lamb with just a hint of garlic and rosemary, served pinkish with fresh asparagus, eaten with a bottle of Bava Stradivario 1997.’ Antonio Carluccio, Neal St Restaurant, London

‘I never used to be a big fan of Barbera, but recently at Fifteen we had a really successful match with a dish of Papardelle Agro e Dolce; a sweet and sour pasta that included mixed wild game and sultanas. finished with finely chopped rosemary and orange zest.’ Matt Skinner, Fifteen, London

The Barbera d'Asti and Barbera del Monferrato DOCs have both shown explosive growth over the last decade.RICHARD BAUDAINS introduces the new and far more drinkable 'Super-Barberas'

IN 1992, Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia listed a combined total of 31 wines from the Barbera d’Asti and Barbera del Monferrato DOCs. The current edition has 233 wines from the same denominations. Ten years ago Asti/Monferrato Barbera was scraping together an average 1.25 score on the Gambero’s 0–3 point scale. This year, between them, the two DOCs picked up five of the guide’s top tre bicchieri or three-glass awards. (For the record, the rival Veronelli Guide lists 205 Asti/Monferrato Barberas, including 21 in the ‘best tastes of the year’ category). At the beginning of the 1990s the 7,000 or so hectares of Barbera in the Monferrato hills were barely paying their way. Today the trendy new generation of ‘Super-Barberas’ fetches prices on a par with the Nebbiolo wines of the neighbouring Langhe.

https://www.decanter.com/learn/about-barbera-dasti-wines-five-things-to-know-381382/

The explanation for this dramatic turnaround in the fortunes of Piedmont’s most planted variety lies in an exponential leap in the general quality – helped by a string of favourable vintages from 1996 to 2001 – and a revolution in style. Barbera used to give you black teeth and gum-shrinking acidity. Nowadays, you get fruit, body and classy drinkability. Barbera has entered the modern commercial winemaking realm and, although you might be nostalgic for the old-fashioned, taut and minerally style, you have to admit that it tastes much better now than it used to.

Barbera is not an easy grape to work with. It is big on colour and potentially big on alcohol, but it also has high acidity, not much tannin and not particularly showy aromas. Producers agree, however, that Barbera is worth the trouble. Highly versatile, it delivers the goods in a range of styles, from the spritzy Monferrato frizzante to the upmarket, barrique-aged, single vineyard selections which the Italian press dubs ‘Super-Barberas’.

Improved techniques

As every producer will tell you, step one in educating the variety is a drastic reduction in yields. Michele Chiarlo remembers that when he first introduced green-harvesting he was harangued by the local priest for committing an affront to nature. Nowadays, it is routine procedure to thin out the crop at least twice.

If necessary, Giorgio Rivetti at La Spinetta goes as far as cutting off the bottom half of the bunch to ensure even ripening. Experience suggests that the lower the yields, the better the results. Chiarlo reckons that basic quality starts at 2kg of fruit per vine, but for his top La Court selection he harvests less than half that amount. Ermanno Accornero calculates that he makes one bottle per vine of his superb Cima. Low yields are not only the result of massive crop reduction, they are also a natural feature of old vines. At the very top end of the Barbera revolution, one of the other keys to the quality leap has been cru selection and, in particular, the recovery of plots of old vineyard.

On the winemaking side, the traditional problem was always acidity. Barbera used to be very unaccommodating when it came to the secondary fermentation, which softens the sour-tasting malic acid in wine grapes. ‘The single biggest step in creating a modern style of Barbera,’ says veteran oenologist Giuliano Noé, ‘was getting the malolactic fermentation to work. It used to be literally impossible to induce the malo because the musts were so full of sulphites and had such low pH [in other words, strong acidity]. These days, starting out with ripe fruit and cutting back on the sulphites, the problem no longer exists.’

Having cracked that one, the next piece in the jigsaw was ageing. Here the experience of the last ten years seems to show that, when it is handled well, barrel maturing really does lift Barbera into a different class. There is no single formula for wood ageing. Bava commissioned a larger version of the traditional Piedmontese barrel in French oak for its impressive single vineyard, Piano Alto. Accornero adopted 500l Burgundy-style tonneaux. On the other hand, Mario Olivero from Marchesi Alfieri and Giorgio Rivetti at La Spinetta use all-new barriques for their top selections which, incidentally, come out smelling of fruit not oak.

Clearer regulations

The next frontier is – you guessed it – terroir. The pressing issue here is a revision of the DOCs governing Barbera production in the Monferrato. Roughly 75% of the vineyards in question qualify for both the Barbera d’Asti and Barbera del Monferrato DOCs. The other 25%, from a generally less interesting area, can only be called Barbera del Monferrato. Independent of where it is grown, Barbera del Monferrato is traditionally associated with lighter, everyday wines, including the fizzy frizzante versions, and d’Asti with more serious styles. However, d’Asti can also be made in a vivace version which is indistinguishable from Monferrato’s frizzante. Both DOCs have a riserva-style superiore category with identical production norms, and there are plenty of examples of very good, fuller bodied wines with the Monferrato label.

Discussions about a DOCG to resolve the muddle are underway. Meanwhile, the producers’ consortium has sponsored changes to the existing DOC for Barbera d’Asti that introduce new sub-zones in the superiore category. The wines from the first of these, Nizza, are out this year.

Apart from identifying sites with homogeneous soils and microclimates, the idea of the new denomination is to introduce new, stricter norms of vineyard management and winemaking. Only south-facing hill vineyards are admitted to the register of the new sub-zone, which also defines the training system (guyot) and pruning (ten buds per vine). To add a little spice to relations with the neighbouring Langhe, the regulations fix yields at 70 quintals/ha (hectare), ten quintals below those of Barolo. The style of the wine is dictated by the requirement for 18 months’ ageing. No fewer than 64 producers claimed the DOC for the 2001 vintage. Within the next five years production is expected to grow to 650,000 bottles.

Barbera clearly dominates the scene, but it does not have a total monopoly. Roberto Bava, for one, is a great believer in the future of Monferrato Rosso, an open house DOC which many producers use for exclusive estate wines. These tend to have an international flavour, whether in monovarietals, such as Alfieri’s very authentic tasting Pinot Nero, San Germano, or in blends. Braida’s Bacialé goes for the elegance of a Barbera-Pinot Nero cuvée, while Accornero’s Centenario and Martinetti’s Sul Bric have the muscle of a Barbera-Cabernet cépage. Angelo Sonvico from La Barbatella backed both horses for his Monferrato Rosso Mystère by assembling equal parts of what he describes as ‘the three greatest varieties in the world: Barbera, Cabernet and Pinot Noir’.

Nobody would dispute the quality of these or any of the other new-wave wines from the top producers, all made on the no-expense-spared principle, but could there be a risk of losing identity just when Barbera has begun to regain credibility?

There is a back-to-the-roots alternative to the international varieties in the form of the traditional Barbera-Nebbiolo blend. La Spinetta uses it in its Pin, so does Bertelli in its Mon Major, and it also features in Chiarlo’s very beefy Countacc! Don’t even whisper it to the producers of the Langhe, but these wines suggest that the potential for Nebbiolo in the Monferrato is, quite frankly, enormous.

Richard Baudains is a freelance writer and expert on Italian wines.

RECOMMENDED BARBERA PRODUCERS AND WINES

Accornero

Long-established family estate which has moved into the top league since the mid-1990s. Outstanding quality and value across the range, from the fruit of the 14% Giulin to the prize-winning Bricco Battista and richly textured, late harvested Cima.

Bava

Bava makes no fewer than four selections of Barbera. Latest additions are the gritty, intensely flavoured Piano Alto Superiore and the feminine, violet-scented Libera.

Braida

New this year is the deliciously supple, berry-flavoured first vintage (2001) of the Montebruna vineyard. Among the other wines, the superb Uccellone and Bigotta 1999 exemplify the elegance of the house style and single cru selections that are the hallmarks of this pioneering estate.

Coppo

Eclectic winery with classy Chardonnay as well as top-class Barbera. The impressive, concentrated fruit Pomorosso is a classic of the modern barrique-aged style. Camp du Rouss is slightly more austere and earthy. Alterego is a solid Barbera-Cabernet blend. The 2000 vintages need at least three years.

Franco Martinetti

Martinetti’s beautifully refined Montruc comes from old vines planted on sandy, calcareous soils. Sul Bric is a rich, fleshy Cabernet-Barbera blend from the same site. The excellent 2000s need at least three years in bottle. Bricco dei Banditi is in the quaffable joie de vivre style.

La Barbatella

Angelo Sonvico is one of the founding fathers of modern Barbera. The monovarietal Vigna dell’Angelo and Barbera-Cabernet Sonvico are Piedmontese classics. The latest addition is the original Monferrato Rosso Mystère. Mini-productions of high quality.

La Spinetta

Dynamic, new-wave producer making fleshy wines with exuberant fruit and extract. Barbera d’Asti Ca’ di Pian 2001 is for drinking now. Save La Spinetta Superiore 2000, which comes in part from pre-phylloxera vines, and the Nebbiolo-Cab-Barbera blend Monferrato Rosso Pin 2000.

Marchesi Alfieri

Ex-Col d’Orcia winemaker Mario Olivero has revitalised this historic estate since his arrival four years ago. Superb vineyard, highly refined winemaking and total belief in Barbera are the keynotes. Alfiera is the splendid top wine. Look also for the super-value Barbera La Tota and a serious Pinot Nero called San Germano.

Michele Chiarlo

This leading winery has a wide range but its roots are in Monferrato, and Barbera remains the most represented variety. The showcase wines are the dense Nebbiolo-Barbera-Cabernet Countacc and a superbly intense and perfumed monovarietal from the all-Barbera estate of La Court.

Poderi Bertelli

Serious old-fashioned Barbera with bags of depth from ripe concentrated fruit. Giarone is the epitome of dry, plummy Barbera. San Antonio Vieilles Vignes is mature, dense and savoury with an earthy terroir character that is pure Piedmont.

Tenuta La Tenaglia

Barbera specialist with the highest vineyards in the Monferrato. The classic Giorgio Tenaglia expresses the intense, minerally estate style. La Tenaglia E (new this year) is softer and rounder. The impressive Emozioni 1999 has length and substance, berry fruit and sweet, lightly toasted oak. Give it two years at least.

• Georg Riedel didn’t get where he is today without a fine sense of delicate balances.
• Over the past 20 years Barbera has evolved into a less robustly rustic wine.
• Barbera’s new best friend was the Hermitage glass in the ‘Sommelier’ range.

The expert was in Cocconato on business, but this being Piemonte there would also be a heroically multifarious lunch, and a proper visit. The hostess had an interest beyond business, and showed the expert her impressive collection. One piece caught his eye, and she brought it out of the cabinet; it was an impressively carved and painted object with a silver cap. An antique stein for lager, she thought. No, the expert said, it was actually a sputum cup, carried around by tubercular patients to prevent the spread of infections. However, he added, it was obviously made for a noble or at least rich patient, a thing of beauty anyway. Georg Riedel didn’t get where he is today without a fine sense of delicate balances.

A dozen of us had come to Casa Brina, the Bava family home and wine cellars, on serious business, something like a christening. In the world of music, arrival at the top was often signalled by garnishing a new culinary creation with the star’s name – peach Melba (and for an encore Melba toast), spaghetti Caruso, chicken Tetrazzini, and tournedos a la Rossini, for example. When Pavlova danced Down Under, Australia got a new dessert. With wines, the process is simpler, and a lot less caloric – a wine’s ascension is confirmed when Riedel designates a glass for it. On this day, it was Barbera’s turn.

We were a mixed group – a few Italian food and wine writers, a couple of chefs, a viticulturist, and winemakers from Asti and Alba (the two leading DOCs for Barbera), including Angelo Gaja and Beppe Bologna, whose father Giacomo helped begin the elevation of Barbera back in the early 1980s with the release of Bricco dell’Uccellone, a version aged in small French oak barrels. Beppe had donated a 1985 bottling of that benchmark wine, one of four slightly different styles and vintages that would define the best glass for the less robustly rustic wine which Barbera had evolved into over the past 20 years, thanks to improved site selection, lower yields, careful malolactic fermentation, oak ageing, and determination.

In the cool, ancient cellar, we worked quickly and ruthlessly, tasting and retasting, voting our way through a steady process of elimination as 12 became nine, then six, then at last three. As always happens with this exercise, we were struck by the differences in how we perceived the same wines in different glasses. In the end, we decided that Barbera’s new best friend was the Hermitage glass in the ‘Sommelier’ range.

Over the splendid lunch, Gaja thanked Riedel for helping winemakers to show their wines at their best and the Bava family for a very good day, then tried to inveigle a couple of recipes from Signora Bava, but she wasn’t divulging any secrets, even in the face of his considerable charm. She did, however, make sure that Georg got a second helping of the chocolate pudding, making sure he’ll never forget Cocconato. Personally, I’m rooting for Dolcetto to keep improving, in hopes of a return engagement sometime soon.

Riedel launches Vinum Extreme Rose wine glass