More than 130 sommeliers, chefs and restaurateurs from 28 countries travelled to southern Sweden recently for Star Wine List’s 2026 Global Final.

Hosted by provincial wine body Terra Skåne, it was the culmination of awards ceremonies held throughout the year in 14 territories spanning three continents, plus an online contest incorporating the rest of the world.

From these regional competitions, 195 restaurants and wine bars won Gold Stars in various international categories, and were now eligible to win a global Gold Star at this year’s final in Skåne.

And on 15 June, some 130 representatives from 66 of those 195 venues attended, from as far away as New Zealand, Seychelles, Singapore, Thailand, Japan, Mauritius and the Maldives.

Before the ceremony at barbecue eatery Holy Smoke, just outside the village of Arild, the finalists visited Kullabergs Vingård for wine tastings from Terra Skåne estates followed by a traditional Midsummer celebration at Arilds Vingård.

Scroll down for Star Wine List’s 2026 Global Final winners

'A wine list that has soul'

Judging the wine lists, for who would take home global Gold Stars in 10 international categories, were Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann, the Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland at the Decanter World Wine Awards, along with fellow Master Sommeliers Jonathan Gouveia and Piotr Pietras, plus Doug Frost MS MW, one of only five people to have ever held both the Master Sommelier and Master of Wine qualifications.

‘Judging the world’s best wine lists is very similar to being a food critic at the world’s best restaurant,’ Gouveia said. ‘It’s both extremely humbling and terrifying at the same time.’

Bangkok’s Inddee, a Michelin two-star restaurant that only opened in 2023, won a second global Gold Star in a row for Best Medium-Sized List, after taking the same award at the final in Vienna, Austria last year.

In his acceptance speech, head sommelier Thanakorn ‘Jay’ Bottorff said: ‘I genuinely believe it’s a wine list that actually has soul, and I’m really, really, really happy about it!’

Ferran Centelles, the joint Regional Chair for Spain at the Decanter World Wine Awards, who was one of the judges of the Southeast Asia wine lists, said Bottorff’s list was ‘as beautifully presented as it is well-stocked’.

In the global judging, Neumann compared it to ‘falling down the rabbit hole, but instead of just the Mad Hatter, you’re greeted by Jay and his incredible team, ready to guide you through the world of wine in all its facets and delights’.

Inddee saw off strong competition from 24 other restaurants including The Four Horsemen and Peasant in New York City and Trivet in London. They (and all runners up in this final) won global Silver Stars.

'We take you on a journey with the list'

Besides Trivet, seven other London restaurants were in contention for global Gold Stars, including Trivet’s sister restaurant Labombe, in the Best Newcomer category.

The other six were: Doppo (Long List and Best Italian List), Row on 5 (By-the-Glass List and Sparkling List), Daka Daka (Short List), Newcomer Wines (Best Austrian List), Restaurant St Barts (Sustainability Prize) and Oma (Special Jury Prize).

And the UK capital didn’t come home empty handed. It was Greek-inspired Michelin one-star restaurant Oma, which won a Silver Star as a finalist in the global Best Newcomer last year, that triumphed with a Gold Star this year in the Special Jury Prize for ‘a wine lovers’ place that does something out of the ordinary’.

Oma’s head of wine, Alessandra Tasca, who collected the prize with assistant wine manager Samuel Worsfold, was elated with the win. ‘This is unreal, thank you! We’re very, very happy. We didn’t expect it – we’re here for the vibes!

‘Ours is a list inspired by the Mediterranean sea,’ Tasca explained. ‘We wanted to give a different approach to how we perceive geography in wine.

‘The list is organised in a unique way. We have three sections: one is ‘influence of the sea’, and then we have ‘surrounded by the sea’ and then the ‘further inland’ section.

'So we take you on a journey with the list – it’s like going on a holiday in the Mediterranean.’

Neumann remarked of Oma’s list: ‘When you see great art you just stop and stare. You do the same here, but with the biggest smile on your face and most certainly a good glass of wine in front of you.’

Local yet global

Star Wine List founder Krister Bengtsson said the expertise of top international sommeliers, as well as insight from regional judges and ambassadors, ensured that the awards were both local yet global.

Each independently assess the submitted wine lists in each regional competition and then meet to collectively determine the winners.

Judges sought out unique wine lists that were notable for their theme, selection, style, structure, presentation or price, said Bengtsson, not simply because they had a cellar full of blue-chip Bordeaux or Burgundy.

He said this ensured under-the-radar venues or those with specialised or quirky lists had the same chance to shine as more prominent restaurants in larger cities.

Bengtsson launched Star Wine List in Stockholm in 2017 as an international guide for wine lovers to find great wine bars and restaurants, wherever they happened to be in the world.

More than 3,500 wine lists from 45 countries are represented in the guide – available as an app and at starwinelist.com. Venues cannot pay to be featured; all bars and restaurants are selected purely on the quality of their wine programmes by the Star Wine List team as well as sommeliers and regional ambassadors (local wine professionals).

The Star Wine List of the Year Awards and its global tour started in 2018.

Gold Stars – Star Wine List’s 2026 Global Final winners

• Best Long List (more than 600 references): Le Coureur des Bois, Beloeil, Québec, Canada
• Best Medium-sized List (200-600 references): Inddee, Bangkok, Thailand
• Best Short List (fewer than 200 listings): Vintage, Kontich, Belgium
• Best By-the-Glass List: Sticks & Stones Wine Bar, Munich, Germany
• Best Sparkling Wine List: Minne Champagne & Wine, Helsinki, Finland
• Best Newcomer List: Café Vivant, Menlo Park, California, USA
• Sustainability Prize (for sustainable commitment of both the wine list and broader venue): Restaurant Ark, Copenhagen, Denmark
• Best Austrian Wine List: Hotel Jagdhof, Röhrnbach, Germany
• Best Italian Wine List: Acquerello, San Francisco, California, USA
• Special Jury Prize (a wine lovers’ place that does something out of the ordinary): Oma, London, UK

To read more about the Gold Star winners and all the Silver Star runners up in each category, click here.

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San Francisco is a relatively small city, fondly referred to as ‘7x7’ for its roughly 49 square miles (127 square kilometres). Yet for such a small area, the City by the Bay is big on wine.

It makes sense, being the closest urban zone to much of California’s most famous wine regions.

A visit brings the opportunity to taste varied wine offerings, inevitably focused on local producers, as well as the chance to investigate the exciting, boundary-pushing culinary landscape that has steadily kept San Francisco in focus.

Here are 10 super spots to savour.

Fresh faces

Palm City

4055 Irving Street

A respite from the bustling central city, Palm City is in the quiet Outer Sunset neighbourhood, sister spot to Bar Jabroni in the Lower Haight.

The open-beamed, one-room space is simple, with chunky, round wooden tables under large, woven basket pendant lampshades and a dark, L-shaped counter.

A vintage photo booth sits in the corner and several bright yellow tables are set outside. Shelves of wine to go (or you can enjoy there for a $15 corkage fee) are priced from a $23 Txakoli up to almost $300.

The by-the-glass list, with three or four selections of each category, skews natural, mostly from France and Spain, plus a handful of local wines, like the 2024 Picpoul-Chenin Vini Jabroni collab with the Les Lunes Wines label based nearby, their house wine.

By far the most popular things to eat are the giant hoagies, especially the Italian American with nduja sauce. Al Green on the stereo on a Wednesday at noon made for a chill lunchtime.

DON'T MISS: Any of the hoagie sandwiches.

Gigi’s

299 Divisadero Street

Far from standard, Gigi’s is a new wine bar and bottle shop in the fun Divisadero neighbourhood, featuring chef Tu David Phu’s food, lovingly inflected with his Vietnamese-American heritage.

The space is small and intimate, but with diverse seating options, including a communal table, numerous window-side stools, cosy burgundy banquettes and a row of chairs at the main bar.

Dark burgundy walls, plants and wood accents add a sultry vibe. The small by-the-glass selections change three to four times per week, allowing for constant exploration and discovery.

The wine list is designed to be playful and accessibly priced, with most bottles offered at $50-$100. The Made in the USA section has some stars, such as the 2023 Ruth Lewandowski, Naomi Grenache Gris.

And of course, all of the wines selected by general manager Madison Michael are intended to pair beautifully with the food’s Asian flavours.

The signature dish at Gigi’s, and the one you’ll see all over the internet, is the wagyu hot dog. It’s cheeky, and it’s meant to be – an homage to the Costco hot dog that was a childhood treat for the chef.

DON’T MISS: Anything in the menu’s seafood section, or the Happy Hour ‘Bump and a Shot’ of sparkling wine and a spoonful of Tsar Nicoulai Baerii caviar.

Bar Gemini

2845 18th Street

This Mission District wine bar pulls you in like a hug. The space, while small, is lovely and glowing, with round light fixtures, flickering lamps and booths with honey-toned wood bench seats.

Dark green walls and a long, L-shaped bar with leather seats add to the cozy atmosphere. It also smells good, like butter browning, thanks to the small team of cooks crafting bar bites.

The food has been curated by chef Brandon Rice from nearby Ernest, a sophisticated New American restaurant that’s much harder to get into than this place. Nibble on the wide selection of tinned seafood and dippy things, all served in ceramic bowls, while sipping on something from the thorough natural wine list (one of the co-owners also heads up local wine label Subject to Change).

The owners also run Gemini Bottle Co (now being rebranded Gemini Bottle & Market), a wine shop a few blocks away, in case you’d like to grab a bottle of any of the interesting selections on offer, such as Stagiaire’s Don’t Tell Mom sparkling red.

DON’T MISS: Sweet, smoky curried spiced nuts or a grilled cheese sandwich.

Key Klub

850 Bush Street

Opened by the folks behind the beloved Bodega SF, Key Klub is a party. Located in Nob Hill, the moody red-lit ‘drinkery’ fills two levels with booming music and piñatas.

Huge paper-lantern lampshades hang from the ceiling above a copper bar with a view of the 15 wall taps of mostly local beer.

But natural wine is certainly a draw, too, with cool selections by the glass and extremely fun tasting notes. ‘All gas, no brakes, side show’ describes the Weingut Fritz Haag Riesling.

Equally fun is to do a few Key Bumps of rotating vermouth for $6 – maybe buy one for the bar staff, too. The food menu consists of robust dishes such as crab cake arancini and mushroom poutine fries.

DON’T MISS: Oozing, spicy eggplant parmesan sticks with San Marzano dip; French toast with duck liver mousse.

Get schooled

Ungrafted

2419 3rd Street

For an added educational layer to your wine enjoyment, head to Ungrafted in the quiet area known as Dogpatch.

This neighbourhood is seeing more and more culinary enhancements spring up, with a large concentration of wine-leaning spots for such a small zone. In fact, you could make Dogpatch a wine destination if you wanted, with visits to the Domaine SF wine shop, La Fromagerie cheese shop and an outpost of the popular Souvla chain, which features a Greek-centric wine bar.

But Ungrafted has been here since 2018, opened by husband and wife Master Sommeliers Chris Gaither and Rebecca Fineman, with the goal of creating a community space and wine education centre. It’s a wine bar, restaurant, wine shop and wine club, with bi-weekly classes, workshops and weekly blind tastings.

The all-sommelier staff will guide you through the diverse, global wine list (plus a big bottle list of around 600) with multiple by-the-glass options, plus sake and beer.

Cocktails with vermouth, Sherry or wine as the base are also available, such as a classic Champagne cocktail with bitters.

The large, warehouse-type space has a copper-topped bar, French bistro tablescapes and white walls with golden vine trunk murals.

DON’T MISS: A fried chicken sandwich or the mixed mushroom toast with whipped cheese and pickled daikon radish.

Bin 415

950 Mason Street

While San Francisco is chock full of places to enjoy wine, it’s also close to several notable California wine regions, so if time allows during your trip, you could enjoy a full vineyard immersion less than two hours from the city.

Bin 415 – a tasting room and tour operator located within the historic Fairmont Hotel on top of Nob Hill – is the answer. They offer special tastings of wines from nearby Napa and Sonoma, the bottles sourced directly from the wineries based on longstanding relationships with founder Michael Lagau.

Entry-level, walk-in tastings are just $25, with pours of the newest selections in the shop. From there, a variety of alternate tastings are available, or you can arrange full excursions to wine country.

The tasting room is an alluring space nestled among the boutiques and art galleries in the lobby level of the hotel.

Furthermore, the iconic Fairmont itself is an ideal place to stay when visiting the city. Historic black and white photos adorn the halls, majestic marble columns tower in the lobby and the basement-level Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar is the place for tiki drinks (rum-forward tropical cocktails) when you’ve maxed out your wine palate.

DON’T MISS: A curated, guided tasting experience or an excursion to Sonoma wineries.

San Francisco Champagne Society

1097 Howard Street

Bill Marci, owner of the San Francisco Champagne Society, is, perhaps unsurprisingly, a true Champagne lover.

Spend five minutes with him and you’ll quickly understand that his dedication to discovering and showcasing grower producers and family-owned vineyards is personal for him – a real hobby turned career.

So for a deep dive, head to this reservation-only Champagne lounge in SoMa (South of Market), which offers a few tiers of tastings, featuring unique selections sourced through Marci’s personal relationships and allocations from small producer lists.

Several add-ons are available, as well as a very informative comparative glassware tasting. Marci calls his glassware his ‘tools’ and is very specific about what he serves in which glass. Some of his own comprehensive education occurred during the Covid lockdown, when he tasted 100 bottles of Champagne in 100 days.

DON’T MISS: The ‘Champagne face mask’ experience from a wide, open-mouthed wine glass; the French cheese pairing add-on.

Food first: San Francisco restaurants

Saison

178 Townsend Street

Saison is a restaurant for wine lovers. With two Michelin stars under chef Richard Lee, the openhearth cooking is, of course, unforgettable. But the wine pairings are more than just notable, too, with an extremely thorough cellar and special attention to Burgundy.

There’s not much signage or fanfare upon arrival at this SoMa (South of Market) location, with a subtle entrance in a red-brick building, but stepping inside, you’re enveloped in a wood smoke-scented, lodge-like atmosphere, especially in the barside salon area, which is loungy, with brick walls, leather stools and booths adorned with furry pillows.

Two astounding tasting menus are on offer and the entire restaurant bustles with the energy of culinary purpose.

Also worth visiting is the new Saison Cellar & Wine Bar, just a short walk away, which was opened by Saison Hospitality co-founder and winemaker Mark Bright in 2024.

DON’T MISS: The full tasting menu with the matched wine flight.

Verjus

550 Washington Street

A popular bistro, opened by acclaimed chef couple Michael and Lindsay Tusk in 2019 (then closed for four years, with a new iteration opening in late 2024), Verjus is inspired by the lively atmosphere of Parisian cave à mangers (wine shop restaurants) and skews French in every way.

The lengthy, mainly French wine list features very thorough Champagne and Burgundy sections, priced as high as $1,800 for a 2015 Kenjiro Kagami Sonorite du Vent Chardonnay.

There are also a handful of cocktails on offer, courtesy of Thad Vogler of Bar Agricole. Try the Bijou with Nebbiolo vermouth.

The menu is posted on a back-lit cinema marquee-style board above the open kitchen that reflects off the high-gloss red lacquered ceiling. It’s partly in French, so be sure to get your translations ready.

Wall shelves are full of bottles and a long communal table set in the middle of the space is always packed.

DON’T MISS: Rolled omelette au Boursin and the custardy, bruleed Pain Purdue with vanilla gelato. Lunch on Saturdays.

Bar Brucato

275 South Van Ness Avenue

While technically more spirit-forward than wine-forward, Bar Brucato is worthy of a mention on this list. Founded by Sierra and James Clark in 2021, Brucato Spirits is centred around producing California amari (Italian herbal liqueurs), using local ingredients and promoting a sense of place.

Their amari, gin and kumquat liquors are all distilled onsite in their Mission District distillery, with the new Bar Brucato situated upstairs, featuring drinks crafted from their products and memorable food, made with similar intentions.

The cocktail program is directed by Leila Malikyar, who has put together an approachable menu for all, even non-drinkers.

The effervescent section, which will appeal to those seeking lighter, more wine-centric beverages, features the Angel Island, with blood orange aperitif and Lambrusco, and the Treasure Island, with Cava – bright and tart, akin to an Aperol spritz.

The tight wine list, with nothing above $90, is mostly California selections, with a few Italian sparklers.

DON’T MISS: Baked-to-order piada bread with house-cultured cacio e pepe butter; spicy lamb meatballs with almond anchovy sauce.

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'No city does hotel cocktail bars like New York'

No matter the type of traveller, most cocktail-loving jetsetters agree that nothing beats a classic hotel bar.

Posting up with a strong drink in a cozy hotel space brings a welcome sense of comfort and relaxation, whether visiting from out of town or simply exploring the scene in your home base—and no city does hotel cocktail bars like New York.

Home to some of the world’s most storied spaces, New York’s hotel bar scene offers a myriad of treasures to be discovered, though knowing where to settle in—and of course, what to order—is key.

Check out eight of our go-to Manhattan hotspots here, from longstanding institutions to newly-opened lounges and beyond.

Eight of the best hotel bars in New York City

Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle

35 E 76th St, New York, NY 10021

Few hotel bars exude old-school glamour as well as Bemelmans. Located on New York’s Upper East Side, this iconic cocktail bar has welcomed the likes of celebrities and politicians alike, including JFK and Paul McCartney.

Known for its live jazz and photo-worthy wallpaper – handcrafted by Ludwig Bemelmans himself, who took residency in the hotel for around 18 months during the mid-1940s – the bar’s strong martinis and unmatched ambiance help to justify the premium prices.

Pro tip: With just 69 seats, the bar fills up quickly, so plan to wait—or better yet, arrive early / during off times for your best shot at a spot (we recommend between 3pm and 4pm).

Monkey Bar at The Hotel Elysee

60 E 54th St, New York, NY 10022

Monkey Bar has long been a New York City staple, hosting the company of carefree creatives, Don Draper-like ad men, and Midtown finance professionals for nearly 100 years.

Known for its Art Deco dining room and signature wraparound mural highlighting Jazz Age icons (think everyone from Frank Sinatra to Dorothy Parker) – as well as its gold and wooden monkey figurines scattered throughout the interior – the bar’s dimly lit ambiance and energetic vibe make it the ideal place for throwing back a few bourbon smashes or stiff gin-based drinks.

For top-tier people watching with an old school flair, look no further than this landmark cocktail joint.

Club Room at Soho Grand

310 W Broadway, New York, NY 10013

Drink, dance, or dine—why choose? At the Club Room at Soho Grand, you can truly have it all. Known for its 'uptown elegance with downtown edge,' this two-room supper club is open Wednesday through Saturday, offering live music, a full dinner menu, and late-night DJs.

Clad with velvet banquettes, two-top tables, and 18-foot mirrored ceilings, this Art Deco-inspired lounge also features a dedicated bar area and separate parlour space, perfect for accommodating whatever type of night you’re looking to have.

Note: There’s a cover charge of $25-$35 ($25 Wed-Thu, $35 on weekends), though access is complimentary for Soho Grand hotel guests.

Lobby Bar at Hotel Chelsea

226 W 23rd St, New York, NY 10011

For a high-end lobby bar with an equally decadent history, look no further than the Chelsea Hotel.

Reopened in 2022, the bar’s curated cocktail menu highlights thoughtful signature drinks and elevated small plates, with the 884 Martini (gin, cedro lemon, vetiver, Spanish olive oil) as one of its most revered libations.

The landmarked hotel has housed the likes of Bob Dylan and Patti Smith, further adding to its trademark Bohemian charm.

In addition to the Lobby Bar, which operates as the hotel’s 'living room', the space also opens to an airy garden terrace, perfect for enjoying drinks al fresco, should the weather permit.

Ty Bar at The Four Seasons

57 E 57th St, New York, NY 10022

Art Deco is a recurring theme amongst New York’s hotel bar scene, though few do it as well as Ty Bar.

Tucked within the Four Seasons in Midtown, this cozy red-hued room serves up bespoke cocktails that pay homage to the city’s historic past—think the New York, New York Sour, Ty Manhattan, and Brooklynite, made with Appleton 8 Year Rum, Planteray 3 Stars Rum, lime, local honey, and Angostura bitters.

Outfitted with floor-to-ceiling windows, a warming fireplace, and exclusive views of the hotel’s grand lobby, there’s really no bad seat in this storied space—it’s simply a matter of preference.

Best of all, Ty Bar features complimentary live music every Thursday from 6pm to 9pm.

Sloane’s at The Manner Hotel

58 Thompson St, New York, NY 10012

For top-tier drinks and a glamorous downtown vibe, check out Sloane’s in The Manner Hotel.

A rather new-to-the-scene bar (opened September 2024), this jewel-box lounge brings a welcome addition to the already trendy neighbourhood, and is the perfect place to grab a pre- or post-dinner drink.

Known for its signature drinks and elevated bites – caviar-topped chicken nuggets included – the space regularly features live jazz, though music or not, the vibes are always on point.

We recommend springing for the London Calling, made with Fords London Dry Gin, fino sherry, grapefruit, bergamot, and orange bitters, or grab the simple Dirty Martini, prepared with olive brine sherry vermouth, sea salt, and an optional caviar bump to boot.

Lounge on Pearl at The Wall Street Hotel

88 Wall St, New York, NY 10005

Martinis are having a renaissance, and Lounge on Pearl is one of the best places in the city to drink them.

Known for its high ceilings and airy ambiance, this downtown hotspot highlights a menu entirely dedicated to the drink, including customisable dry, dirty, and espresso options, as well as a handful of unique riffs – think the Manzanilla, made with Bombay Sapphire Gin, Valdespino Sherry, and an Almond Stuffed Olive, as well as the savoury Mushroom Martini, made with ​​Grey Goose Vodka, shiitake, and dashi.

The lounge also offers a Martini Frites special, featuring a martini of choice and side of fries for $32, as well as a number of signature cocktails and by-the-glass wine pours.

The bar also houses a small library area with a number of art books and newspapers, making it a great place for a zen moment downtown.

The Rum House at Hotel Edison

228 W 47th St, New York, NY 10036

World-class cocktails and Times Square may sound like a contradiction, though The Rum House consistently defies all odds.

Known for its wood-panelled room and – you guessed it – speciality rum cocktails, this vintage-inspired bar offers a desirable reprieve from the chaos of Midtown.

The bar’s wood-panelled walls and distinct copper accents create a retro, 1970s-inspired vibe, making it the perfect backdrop for nightly live piano and jazz music with a strong drink in hand.

Classic rum cocktails, including the Painkiller, Rum Punch, and Mojito are perfectly executed, though we recommend also springing for a signature libation, such as the Hotel Nacional, made with Plantation Dark Rum, pineapple, lime, Giffard Abricot du Roussillon, and Angostura Bitters.

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Northern Irish golfer Rory McIlroy will defend his 2025 US Masters title at Georgia’s Augusta National, the tournament culminating this Sunday, 12 April.

But to ease the nerves before the first-round tee times on Thursday, he had the traditional winner’s honour of hosting Tuesday night’s Champions Dinner.

As is custom, the previous year’s winner not only designs the menu and chooses the wines, but also pays for the dinner – attended only by past Masters Champions (plus Augusta National Golf Club chairman Fred Ridley), all wearing their iconic winner’s green jackets.

Analysis from ratings platform Sportsbook Review reports that the food component of McIlroy’s Champions Dinner is the most expensive ever recorded, at $318 (£236) a head.

This is a 194% increase on Scottie Scheffler's $108 menu in 2025 (the cheapest of the past decade) and 44% higher than Hideki Matsuyama's 2022 menu, the previous record holder.

For the 34 guests, that’s a bill of $10,812 (£8,032) McIlroy has to foot.

But that is nothing compared to the value of the wines enjoyed by the 34 dinner attendees.

These are all sourced from Augusta National’s wine cellar, but chosen by McIlroy, who told media before Tuesday’s dinner that this was his ‘favourite part of the menu’.

McIlroy’s ‘intentional’ wine choices

‘I wanted to be really intentional with the wines,’ said McIlroy at a press conference, attended by Decanter’s sister title Golf Monthly.

‘It's something that I'm really into and passionate about, and started to collect wine probably over the past decade,’ he said.

‘To work with the sommeliers at the club and be able to choose these wines was a lot of fun.’

To go with appetisers of peach and ricotta flatbread, shrimp tempura, bacon-wrapped dates and grilled elk sliders, McIlroy chose Salon 2015 from the Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru.

Arguably the most prestigious of Champagne’s Blanc de Blancs, this is the only wine Salon makes, and the 2015 is just the 45th vintage released in the house’s 120-year history.

Decanter’s Champagne correspondent Tom Hewson hasn’t yet reviewed the 2015, but scored the 2013 vintage 97 points.

For the first course of yellowfin tuna carpaccio with foie gras, McIlroy selected Domaine Leflaive’s Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2022.

Decanter’s Burgundy correspondent Charles Curtis MW rated this wine 96, remarking that it was ‘the wine’s finesse and elegance that makes it genuinely outstanding’.

‘It's the first-ever white wine that I actually liked,’ McIlroy told the press conference. ‘So to be able to serve that is something that's sort of important to me.’

Poignant Bordeaux pairings

Champions Dinner guests had a choice of wagyu filet mignon or seared salmon for the main course, each served with traditional Irish champ, brussels sprouts, carrots and crispy onions.

And McIlroy’s red wine pairing was especially poignant – Château Lafite Rothschild 1990.

‘That is the wine that I drank the night that I won the Masters, so obviously brings back some great memories,’ he said of the Pauillac first growth.

‘You know, [Irish golfer] Shane Lowry had a little bit to do with getting that wine, so I want to shout him out for that, too. But that will be amazing to serve,’ McIlroy told the media.

Decanter has three tasting notes on this legendary Bordeaux estate’s 1990 vintage, rated between 98 points and 95 points, each underlining that it is in a perfect drinking window now in its 36th year.

To go with the dessert course of sticky toffee pudding, McIlroy picked out a wine from his birth year: Chateau d’Yquem 1989.

‘Every great meal deserves to be finished off with Château d'Yquem,’ he told the press conference. ‘It is like liquid gold.’

Two Decanter experts agreed, rating this vintage 97 and a perfect 100 points, extolling it as ‘a masterclass in the layers and complexity that you find in fully mature Yquem’.

Buying McIlroy’s wine selection

But what would it cost you to replicate this wine selection at your next dinner party?

According to search engine and ecommerce marketplace Wine-searcher, the cheapest retail price per bottle, including tax and duty, for each of the wines in the UK are:

• Champagne Salon 2015 – £915 (Hedonism)
• Domaine Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet 2022 – £2,065 (Selfridges)
• Château Lafite Rothschild 1990 – £699 (Lay & Wheeler)
• Château d’Yquem 1989 – £425 (Huntsworth Wine Co)

That’s a total of £4,104 ($5,509).

As the Champions Dinner is a celebratory occasion, it’s likely the 34 guests would have been served large 250ml glasses (not the standard 150ml or small 125ml pours).

If that was indeed the case, then 12 bottles of each wine would have been required to serve all 34 guests.

Which means one 250ml glass of each of the four wines would cost £1,368 ($1,836) a head.

And the total outlay for the wines, if you were to buy 12 bottles at the cheapest retail prices as listed above, is a staggering £49,248 ($66,114).

Thankfully McIlroy could afford to repeat this lavish occasion if he so wished – he took home $4.2m from his Masters victory last year.

New legends and old

McIlroy beat Justin Rose in a playoff in 2025, winning the Masters title on his 17th attempt, and becoming the sixth player to complete a career Grand Slam (The Masters, PGA Championship, US Open and The Open Championship).

The official Champions Dinner photo released by The Masters, shows McIlroy, seated centre, flanked by Augusta National Golf Club chairman Fred Ridley and two-time Masters winner Ben Crenshaw, who was the unofficial MC for the evening.

Of the 35 Masters Champions still living, 33 were present at the dinner, including six-time winner Jack Nicklaus, three-time winner Gary Player and other golfing luminaries, including two-time champs Scottie Scheffler, Nick Faldo, Tom Watson, Bernhard Langer, Jose Maria Olazabal and Bubba Watson.

Five-time champion Tiger Woods and three-time winner Phil Mickelson did not attend.

Two-time winner Ben Hogan started the annual tradition of the Masters Champions dinner in 1952, after his first victory in 1951.

How sommeliers watch for subtle cues

It’s 6 pm and the dining room at Carversteak inside Resorts World Las Vegas is picking up. Master sommelier and wine director Lindsey Geddes scans the reservation app. Tonight is busy, with early diners signalling pre-show dinners.

The dining room of this luxury steakhouse glows with mid-century modern warmth, while Dolly Parton’s ‘Islands in the Stream’ drifts through the eclectic playlist above the buzz. A freshly seated four-top settles in with a wine and cocktail list. Across the room, Geddes and her sommelier team, Matt Daro and Nina Jarlock, observe with intent.

Experience and intuition guide every move, as they watch for subtle cues: the head of the table’s confident posture, a curious glance at the wine list, and the one who quietly defers.

Geddes greets guests with a gentle smile, saying, ’Good evening...’. The sommeliers let each table find its rhythm before offering a warm greeting that puts even the most anxious diners at ease. In these first ten seconds, they gather the clues that will shape the experience.

Most guests never notice this choreography; it’s a ritual shared by sommeliers around the world, each one orchestrating service to suit the guests before them.

Reading the energy

In Paris, Agnese Morandi, head sommelier at Table by Bruno Verjus, says, ‘I observe guests – their mood, the occasion. I want them to feel comfortable, never judged, so they can relax and enjoy.’

In New Orleans, Clayton Fox, sommelier and wine director at R’evolution calls this reading of the room’s ‘general energy’.

‘Is it a happy, boisterous table? More serious? Are they open to conversation, or do they just want to confirm their biases?’ he says. Sometimes, Fox admits, ‘They don’t want to talk at all’. He keeps things casual: ‘I’m Clayton, I do the wine here’, preferring genuine connection over formality.

Geddes also forgoes the sommelier certification pin on her lapel for the same reason: to avoid intimidating guests and encourage openness.

As a wine writer, I fell in love with wine thanks to the warmth and generosity of sommeliers – transforming lengthy lists into invitations to explore. I now find myself drawn to the wine selections and their storytelling, as much as the subtle psychology unfolding around it.

Focusing on the experience

With practised intuition, sommeliers suggest pairings that elevate a meal – at Carversteak, red wine remains the go-to for steakhouse classics, matching both cuisine and guest preference.

Sometimes there’s extra flair: Matt Daro wheels out a six-litre Daou Paso Robles 2021 with theatrical tableside style.

‘Bring it closer so we can see,’ says the guest doing most of the talking, comfortably flexing his wine knowledge as the glass is poured.

Geddes and Daro listen attentively, but while one guest may drive the conversation, the sommeliers’ attention is always on the whole table. ‘We make sure to connect with everyone. The experience belongs to all,’ Geddes says.

After giving the glass a generous swirl and taking that first sip, he says, ‘Well, that’s good’. Some guests glance at the wine list, then check their phone – maybe for prices or reviews – but Geddes doesn’t mind.

‘We look up wine information, too. As long as we’re getting the guest what they want’, she says.

'You can't make assumptions'

The perspective broadens internationally.

‘You cannot make assumptions about anyone’, says Pietro Campara, head sommelier at Antica Bottega del Vino in Cortina, Italy, a newly opened location of the flagship in Verona.

‘Nowadays, customers who visit a place like Bottega del Vino almost never come to us by chance; they already have a clear idea in mind because there is also a greater circulation of information,’ he says.

Sommeliers are intuitive, often noticing cultural preferences from years of service.

‘South Americans often love smooth wines with generous fruit’, says Campara. ‘Scandinavian guests frequently ask for organic certifications. British guests can surprise you with an extraordinary depth of knowledge.’

Yet knowledge doesn’t always dictate behaviour; sommeliers adjust their approach quickly. Campara recalls a young guest ordering a rare Sassicaia just for its price, not its story – so he focused on exclusivity rather than history.

'Many guests assume we’re pushing expensive bottles'

Much of a sommelier’s craft lies in invisible decisions.

‘Chill a second bottle before they ask,’ Fox says. ‘Pour something they’d never order and comp it. Make them feel special.’ Subtle interventions shape the evening. ‘If I sense a table might linger over a second bottle, I’ll send small nibbles’, Campara explains. ‘Wine service often sets the dinner’s rhythm.’

​Despite this care, sommeliers still wrestle with perception.

'Many guests assume we’re pushing expensive bottles. We’re always working against that perception,' Fox says.

Wine service, despite its rituals, was never meant to intimidate. The sommelier’s roots trace back to medieval France as trusted stewards. Over centuries, the mission remained the same: enhance the guest’s experience, even as ceremony and symbolism evolved.

Returning to Carversteak, the role feels closer to its origins. Here, the sommelier isn’t a gatekeeper of knowledge, but an interpreter of mood, preference, and possibility.

What do sommeliers want guests to understand?

‘Trust’, says Campara. ‘We chose this profession out of passion. With trust, the satisfaction becomes mutual.’

Morandi agrees. ‘I make it exclusive for each guest. I’m here for them, and we will always find delicious possibilities and choices together.’

Reinforcing the sommelier’s role, Geddes conceived Carversteak’s wine list as more than a catalogue. Designed to engage rather than intimidate, the list invites curiosity, even play.

Among its features is a blind-tasting option, in which the sommelier fully steps into the role of guide, leading diners through discovery rather than deliberation.

Some descriptions are deliberately conversational. One wine entry reads: ‘Determined to radically lower its environmental footprint, ask Leonardo DiCaprio.’

‘It’s often the less experienced wine lovers who choose the blind tasting’, Geddes notes. ‘There’s comfort in relinquishing the pressure of selection. There is excitement in the unknown.’

At a corner booth, a guest makes a confident selection. ‘Great choice’, says sommelier Jarlock. At another table, a couple hesitates, eyes drifting between wine regions and prices, until Geddes steps in gently, discreetly offering options at different price points.

The couple settles on something in the middle. Tension is dissolved because the choice is now less intimidating.

Every night is a performance

It’s 8pm. The dining room swells toward capacity. Hours earlier, the team gathered for their pre-shift huddle, preparing for the night ahead.

Now, glasses replenished, plates are cleared and replaced. Each table has its own tempo and unique conversations. The energy is buoyant. The mood is convivial. This is service.

Yet most guests remain blissfully unaware of the silent signals, the thoughtful pairings, and the seamless service that guide their evening. Every night is a performance. That, Geddes might say, is the dance.

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This March marked one year since my wife and I moved to Paris.

Moving to any new city – even one I knew relatively well and where I already spoke the language – brings with it a little trepidation. Not least with a baby on the way as well.

Even my wife – who’s from Paris – admitted to being a little unsure quite what it would be like after so long living away.

We needn’t have worried though. I think we’ve both been a little stunned by the sheer density of independent businesses in areas like ours; cavistes, fromageries, boulangeries, épiceries, traiteurs, bistros, bars à vins etc etc.

We’ve been adding spots – places we’ve been or want to try – to a shared Google Maps list and it just keeps growing and growing and growing.

Even a year in I still look around at places a mere two minutes walk from my flat and realise I haven’t been there yet.

Having a baby naturally puts the brakes on being out as often as we were. Early bedtime routines mean we’re mostly housebound from 6.30pm onwards; staring wistfully from the windows at all the beautiful, bright young things necking pints and smoking rollups with abandon in the bouncing bars below us.

The local cavistes are definitely getting more of our business than the zincs at the moment. But, the days are getting longer, the weather is improving and the ephemeral terraces (literal translation) will soon be out again.

Drinks on the deck beckon once more. And it’s good for baby to get some fresh air…

It never rains but it pours

Hmm, yes. Now that the weather is improving… or did I speak too soon?

I had planned to fill this piece with a paean to the lovely spring weather we’d been having, and how Paris is at its peak in the spring sunshine.

But, as I started to write, the sky darkened and there is currently a pretty ferocious lashing of hail beating at my windows and anyone unlucky enough to be out in the street.

And in-between the hail it pours.

Still, I shouldn't complain as it has been rather lovely generally. And, if a year here has driven home a point I already knew, Paris needs a good hosing down on a pretty regular basis.

So much so that the city’s street sweepers open the bouches de lavage to flush all the trash and ordure that builds up in the gutters down to the sewers.

It’s a unique system – with some 1,700 kilometres of pipes involved – that was planned and built in the 19th century during Paris’s redesign by Baron Haussmann and is still in use to this day.

If you’ve ever been to Paris and wondered why there are mini rivers occasionally running through the streets when it’s not raining – that’s why.

New mayor, less poo?

Unfortunately, all that water doesn’t get to where most people let their dogs foul which is just right in the middle of the pavement.

Of all the things I love about Paris, the proliferation of dogshit in residential streets like mine is far and away not one of them.

If you’ve been keeping up with the French news then you may have caught that there were recently municipal elections across the country.

A shift towards more radical Left or Right (La France Insoumise or Rassemblement National respectively) mayors in major cities did not really materialise, with most cities electing more traditional Socialist or Republican (Labour/Conservative adjacent) representatives.

Paris elected its third-straight mayor from the Parti Socialiste, Emmanuel Grégoire replacing the outgoing Anne Hidalgo. With 50% of the vote too.

Hidalgo’s environmental policies and ‘war on motorists’ (introducing more pedestrianised zones, cycle lanes, reducing parking spaces in central Paris etc) inevitably caused harrumphing in certain circles but probably overplayed how unpopular she really was.

Faced with a candidate who promised to continue Hidalgo’s policies and one who said they would undo them (Rachida Dati), Parisians seem to have opted for the former.

A few more trees and green spaces certainly wouldn’t go amiss here in the arid urban zone of the 18th. And maybe Grégoire can institute a new War on Turds too.

Return of the motocrotte anyone?

Has a year in Paris changed me at all then? Well, here I am dreaming about drinks on the terraces, giving my tuppence ha-penny’s worth on politics and complaining about dog mess in the neighbourhood.

You tell me.

What I’ve been drinking recently

Domaine de Mena, Wabi Sabi, IGP Côtes Catalanes

A 100% Cinsault (not a Grenache, surprisingly) from Roussillon. A gorgeous light ruby colour, filled with the scent of rose petal, violets, cranberry and redcurrant; a touch of wild strawberries, black pepper and a little stalky herbal note, as well as thyme and lavender. Lithe and supple on the palate. This is silky but with bite and depth. Gouleyant.

Domaine Les Grandes Vignes, 100% Pineau d’Aunis, Vin de France

Made from the Loire Valley’s coolest red grape of the moment, Pineau d’Aunis. This is all fresh succulent red fruit; strawberry, cherry and cranberry with a note of spice. It has real oomph and substance at only 10.5% abv. Bracing and fun.

Olivier Pithon, Mon P’tit Pithon Blanc, IGP Côtes Catalanes

Another wine from Roussillon, this time a more classic Grenache Blanc, Gris and Macabeu blend. On the nose a steadily building pulse of green apple, peach and apricot, alongside a lightly herbal note of fennel and fresh grass. There’s a lovely creaminess to the palate, with a salty, biscuity note that lasts long on the finish. Not high acidity but fresh and all about that granular texture. Very satisfying.

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Introducing Maria José Huertas Vega

Maria José Huertas Vega grew up in Zamora, Spain, and studied agricultural engineering at Universidad Politécnica de Madrid. She is currently the head of wine at NH Hotels Spain and head sommelier at La Terraza del Casino, the rooftop two-star Michelin restaurant led by chef Paco Roncero at the Casino de Madrid. She is also a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards.

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Travelling used to be glamorous didn’t it? Don’t shake your head at me. I’ve seen the photos of stewardesses carving delicious hams and turkeys with paper-frills as part of the in-flight service.

Even the vagrants had it good. ‘Third boxcar, midnight train. Destination: Bangor, Maine.’ A whole train carriage all to yourself. Imagine that.

But nine-tenths of all travel now is drab, functional and distinctly unromantic – or delicious.

That’s the big loss to modern travel. Good dining. I know there are ways to travel in various luxury class flights and trains where you can drink Champagne from a shoe and be trusted with non-toddler-proof cutlery.

But that’s not how most of us are getting around. We’ve lost the ham trollies on planes. And while the TGV operators gamely maintain a ‘dining car’ so you can at least get a beer and a lacklustre sandwich on your high-speed voyage, dinner on the Orient Express it is not.

The solution used to be a jolly good meal before you got on or when you got off the train. A no-brainer too – train stations see metric tons of foot traffic and yet dining options in and around stations are increasingly bad it seems.

Though, not everywhere…

An in-and-out sort of place

In December I whizzed down to Bordeaux for a few days on a course. That first evening I met with two friends and one suggested we go to the Bouillon de Saint-Jean next to the station.

Recently renovated, its décor leant heavily on the late 19th century heyday of these classic dining halls.

‘Bouillons’ grew in popularity in Paris from around the 1850s as places to eat fast and cheaply, generally aimed at workers and the less well-off.

In this they were a sort of evolution of the classic bistrot, the name of which is itself derived from the Russian for ‘fast’ or ‘quick’ – ‘bystryy’*.

Anyway, I’ll tell you about the differences between brasseries, bistrots and bouillons another time. Suffice it to say that bouillons still exist and while not exclusive to station locations by any means, their modus operandi makes them perfect for those looking to grab a hot meal before taking the train.

I warn you though, it’s pretty wham-bang-thank-you-ma’am stuff.

They usually don’t take bookings – especially at busy periods – and you need to be there with your whole company before they’ll seat you. So no ‘my friend will join us in five minutes’.

I wouldn’t be under any illusions about the exquisite quality of the food you’re always getting either. Bouillons maintain their record for being pretty bloody cheap.

You can see the Saint-Jean menu online but I had: Six snails in parsley butter (€6.90), steak frites with a pepper sauce (€12.00), an affogato (€3.90) and my share of a half-bottle of wine (Château Pouyanne, Graves, for another €6).

Now at that price and with the rapidity it arrived, do I think this was lovingly knocked up by the chef from scratch? No, I don’t.

But the overall quality was pretty good and those prices are close to unbeatable – three courses with two glasses of wine for under €30!

If it’s a choice between a sad sandwich on a train, giving money to yet another fast food franchise or a hot meal with at the least the semblance of traditional cooking – I know where my money’s going.

A lost art

Overall, it made me think that this tradition of pre-/post-train dining is a) brilliant and b) a much-needed antidote against the drudgery of modern travel.

Paris maintains a pretty solid stable of station-adjacent establishments. Right off the top of my head there’s: Bouillon Chartier at the Gare de l’Est, Terminus Nord at the Gare du Nord and, of course, the daddy of them all, Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon.

Good luck getting into that latter one though. First recommended to me by the late father of a good friend some years back, I fear its status as a hidden gem is long gone.

And there are almost certainly more both in Paris and around the country. When I lived in Lyon, my girlfriend at the time was from Beaune, and at the end of weekend visits we’d often stop by at the Hotel de France opposite the station to eat before we headed back.

That was a proper hidden gem, though from the look of the website it’s got somewhat fancier in the intervening decade. Nonetheless, a classic case of a railway hotel offering good food because it’s good business.

Not that all provincial French railway stations are hiding ‘bistrot d’excéption’. Indeed, rural dining in France is currently in terrible peril.

But there is an intangible sense of fun and satisfaction finding good restaurants by train stations I’ve decided.

It’s satisfyingly old fashioned. The kind of thing Agatha Christie or Ernest Hemingway would mention in their writing.

You can imagine it now. ‘We trooped into the Café de la Gare. It was a cool, well-lit place with mirrored walls and a station clock set in a dark wooden frame above the door. We were weary from our journey but hungry. We ordered oysters, terrine and steaks and fell upon the food, washing it down with foaming glasses of beaujolais wine.’

The inside track

And it’s excellent insider knowledge too. It conveys a degree of well-travelled sophistication. ‘Ah yes, the Gare de Terminus. You should go here. The fish is excellent. Tell Maxime I sent you.’

And as someone who likes to be-on-time for my trips (to my wife’s despair), when we inevitably arrive hours early for our train the idea of being able to eat in peace and happiness mere metres from the station is delightful.

What I am saying therefore is that, we are failing as a society in allowing this brilliant culinary institution to slip through our grasp, more restaurants need to place themselves near stations, and Britain is trailing miserably behind in this regard.

It didn’t use to be, I’m sure. Britain was once Top Nation when it came to railways. But British rail travel never recovered from Beeching’s axe, nay, bloody cleaver, of 1963.

So, if you find yourself near a station, with some time to kill and an appetite, look for a place where you can treat yourself to a good meal and bring a little whiff of old railway glamour back into your life.

It really works. Believe me.

*When the armies of the Sixth Coalition occupied Paris in 1814, the Russian troops, who made up a sizeable element of the force, could be heard shouting this in any establishment they were in when asking for food and drink, so enterprising Parisians catered to this whim and the ‘bistrot’ was born.

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What I’ve been drinking recently

Ruppert-Leroy, Papillon, Champagne

Dynamic duo Emmanuel Leroy and Bénédicte Ruppert are among Champagne’s cadre of exciting, terroir-oriented smaller growers. Each cuvée is based off a single parcel and it’s as low-intervention as Champagne can be. Papillon is a pure Pinot Noir from a site with a lot of red clay. Aged nine months on its lees in barrel before bottling and then a further 18-20 months lees-ageing sur lattes. A slightly pinky hue, notes of bitter citrus fruit, mature apple purée, a little fresh red berry and a very vinous feel and mineral purity to the finish. Gorgeous.

Gut Oggau, Winifred Rosé, Burgenland, Austria, 2019

Oh look, something that’s not French. I bought this bottle years ago and have been hanging on to it for dear life as I watched prices of this cult Austrian producer spiral higher and higher. But I decided enough was enough this Christmas and opened it. As a rosé I was a little nervous this might have been past its best. I remembered the colour as being darker but this was a light peach/onion skin/partridge eye colour that was very attractive. And then the palate was a sensational blend of wild strawberries, peach, and dried herbs, with a lovely creaminess to it. Honestly, it made me think of a white Burgundy almost. Who says rosés and natural wines can’t age? Geil!

Clos du Tue Boeuf, Pineau d’Aunis, Vin de France, Loire Valley

I’ve had my eye on the ‘Tue Boeuf’ wines for a while and this little red number has me thoroughly seduced. Beautiful bright red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, cherry), tart redcurrant, a little lift of white pepper and some very fine dry tannins. A smashable little number.

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Born in Denmark, sommelier Majken Bech-Bailey is a pioneer in non-alcoholic pairings in some of the top Michelin-star restaurants in the world. Her own range of non-alcoholic wine alternatives, BÆK, is listed in restaurants including Gordon Ramsay High in London, Grace & Savour in Birmingham and Adare Manor in Co Limerick, Ireland.

‘Twelve or 13 years ago I had no idea that I would become a sommelier, in the fine dining world. Most people in the rural community I grew up in drank beer or rum and coke, not wine, and I didn’t really drink alcohol. I was all set to go to business school when I spent the summer working at a Michelin-star restaurant. It completely changed the direction of my life.

‘While I was there I tasted a white Burgundy with some age, paired with a lobster and tomato dish – I was blown away by the match, by how each elevated the other – and it made me want to learn more about wine.

‘Because I wasn’t a big drinker, I asked if I could play around with the non-alcoholic pairing at the restaurant – I wanted to create something more complex than what they were offering. After that I looked after the non-alcoholic pairing at every restaurant I worked at. It’s often an afterthought in restaurants and can be neglected where somms are so passionate about wine. You’ll find water sommeliers today, and tea sommeliers, but because the non-alcoholic category is so broad, it’s hard to find people, like me, who specialise in that area.

‘In fine dining the dishes are very complex – I want to respect that and offer guests the same experience, and satisfaction that they would receive if they were ordering wine.

‘I met my British husband, chef Jordan Bailey, in Denmark around 12 years ago. After working together in Michelin-star restaurants in Oslo, we moved to Ireland in 2019 to run our own restaurant, Aimsir, which won two Michelin stars after just four months.

‘It was great fun, but in 2023 we decided to start our own private catering and consultancy business instead. In the course of that I ran some masterclasses on non-alcoholic drinks, and restaurants started asking me to make a few bottles for them. In-house chefs and sommeliers often don’t have the resources to make elaborate non-alcoholic juices that might only last a week. That’s how BÆK [brook or stream in Danish] came about.

‘Previous to that I’d create a match for a specific dish. Now the challenge was to create two products, specifically designed to go with food, but without knowing what they’d be served with – one as an alternative to white wine, and one to red wine.

‘Just as with wine, we’re considering colour, clarity, aroma, texture, body, flavour and length. And we use some wine descriptors so that people will understand what it tastes like. We’re trying to mimic some of the elements of a wine, but we’re not trying to mimic wine itself. If you try to do that, you will always fail because it will never taste like wine – because it doesn’t contain alcohol. My vision was to create something that feels like having a glass of wine, but doesn’t necessarily taste like having a glass of wine. Lots of people said we should use a wine bottle as packaging, but I didn’t want that. I wanted it to be clear that the products are not wine – that instead they are something unique, that merit attention.

‘The advantage of having a chef for a husband is that I had access to an entire kitchen and range of ingredients. Plus he understands how to create a certain flavour experience.

‘I wanted the pepper and tannin you’d find in a red wine in the ‘red’ version; we ended up using the juice from aronia berries, because they are thick-skinned, almost bitter, with a tannic-like structure; we add this to Merlot grape juice, which is sweet and contrasts with the aronia; Earl Grey tea concentrate, Sichuan pepper, orange, clove, and barrel-aged raspberry balsamic vinegar.

‘With the white, instead of just going with a dry, high-acid drink, I wanted something rounder and with a little sweetness so it would go with savoury and sweet dishes. We use the juice of Chardonnay grapes and Bramley apples – Bramleys give the perfect balance of sweetness and tartness – infused with roasted Jerusalem artichokes; there’s also a touch of beeswax, honey, tonka beans and seasalt.

‘We’re also developing two sparkling versions: one that’s an aperitif style, and one to go with afternoon tea that has a stronger flavour profile.

‘I believe in the future of the non-alcoholic category. It’s booming, and partly because there is a generation of non-drinkers emerging. Many have been exposed to fine dining from a young age, and are sophisticated diners. They’re excited to come across an option that’s not Coke.’

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The first hint of chestnuts roasting over open fires and holly garlands sheathing street lamps began well before December was even underway – and we’re not complaining.

With 2025 now at an end and temperatures dipping to frosty negatives, the holiday season adds a much-needed infusion of cheer and festivities that encourage fêting both the past year and the one to come.

We’ve found a few ways to ring in 2026 in the most stylish of settings, from lavish caviar pop-ups in Paris to sky-high dining in the Swiss Alps – plus the most sumptuous new suites to snag for a ski getaway – these haute happenings are sure to get you in the holiday spirit.

Unmissable experiences

Toast 2026 at celebrity chef Scott Conant’s new hotspot Leola at Baha Mar in The Bahamas

Nassau’s Baha Mar, an over-the-top resort perched along the Caribbean’s famous white-sand Cable Beach, is a year-round party thanks to events like the Bahamas Culinary & Arts Festival, where Bahamian Lenny Kravitz recently performed for the first time in his native island country.

For New Year’s Eve, Jamaican Grammy Award-winning artist Sean Paul will rang in 2026 with a live performance, fireworks, and dancing under the stars.

Before the show, sample a selection of plates from Baha Mar’s 40-plus restaurants bearing some of the biggest names in the culinary world, including Daniel Boulud and Marcus Samuelsson, or take a seat at two-time James Beard Award-winning chef Scott Conant’s newest eatery, Leola.

Inspired to evoke the feel of a 1920s speakeasy, Conant’s sultry space is outfitted with velvet furnishings, gilded design details, and extravagant chandeliers.

For the ultimate New Year’s indulgence, order the foie gras-filled tortelli in balsamico tradizionale and the rigatoni with jumbo lump crab, which of course pairs best with a robust Italian Barolo – and the old world-heavy wine list has plenty of standout vintages and producers to choose from.

Savour seasonal truffles during an intimate Sunday lunch at Mirazur in Menton

Lauded chef Mauro Colagreco’s three Michelin-starred Mirazur, suspended over the Mediterranean Sea in Menton, on the French Riviera, has claimed a coveted spot as one of the world’s top restaurants.

On the cusp of its 20th anniversary, chef Colagreco shows no sign of slowing down – he’s even bringing in a ‘gastronomic curator,’ Ferran Adrià (of the now-closed El Bulli) to assist with an anthological menu revisiting two decades of the eatery’s culinary creations.

If you can’t wait until April for the month-long anniversary edition, sample the chef’s locally focused cuisine in one of the restaurant’s most intimate of spaces: La Puerta, a private dining room and chef’s table where you can watch the master at work in the open kitchen.

Wines are pulled from the space’s cellar and vinyl records set the tone for the chalet-like experience that would feel just as fitting in Courchevel as on the Côte d’Azur.

Gift a collector-worthy cuvée from Château Lagrange

Château Lagrange’s history in Médoc’s St-Julien appellation runs deep, with a heritage dating back to the 16th century. While the grand cru classé vineyard hasn’t changed since the 1855 classification, the estate, along with the help of winemaker Matthieu Bordes, has been incorporating more sustainable viticulture practices such as biodiversity regeneration and plot-by-plot vinification since Japan’s Suntory Group took the reins in 1983.

To honour the anniversary, Château Lagrange has released a limited-edition cuvée as part of its Heritage Collection: a 2023 magnum modelled after vintage Bordeaux bottles and crafted from historic parcels.

The blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Merlot nods to when the vineyard was more Merlot-heavy at the start of the estate’s Suntory chapter. Presented in a minimalist oak case with a trio of leather straps, this subtle celebration of the art of wabi-sabi adds a Japanese twist to the classic Bordeaux.

Sleep in a sumptuous Lalique-filled suite in Courchevel’s newest boutique hotel

Monaco-based Maya Collection’s haute restaurants have expanded everywhere from Dubai to Montenegro, and the latest address on the list is one just as lauded: glamorous French ski town Courchevel 1850.

A first for the collection, Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 is in a category of its own in Courchevel, with just 14 rooms styled in a minimalist, Japanese aesthetic by celebrated architect and interior designer Sylvestre Murigneux.

Lalique is prominently on display throughout the boutique hotel, but the dedicated Lalique Suite and Apartment is entirely outfitted in the French maison’s legendary crystal – which you’ll find everywhere from the sculpted headboard and sink to the deconstructed prism chandeliers floating above the dining room table and bar.

At the first alpine outpost of MayaBay, locally sourced ingredients are woven into the menu of elevated takes on classic Japanese and Thai fare – one of the standouts being the Choo Chee lobster, grilled and coated in a Thai red curry with pineapple and red bell peppers.

Ski like (and with) an Olympian on an alpine escapade in the Italian Dolomites

After catching pros during the Winter Olympic Games in Milano and Cortina, jet off to join racing legends and Olympians Travis Ganong and Marie-Michèle Gagnong in Italy’s South Tyrol for a five- to seven-night retreat at COMO Alpina Dolomites.

Call the Alpe di Siusi – dotted with mountain huts serving up South Tyrolean specialties – your base as you perfect your techniques on Val Gardena’s iconic pistes.

After a day on the slopes, recovery comes in the form of restorative yoga, sledding under the stars, and dinners designed around local alpine cuisine (mountain herbs, meadow-raised beef) at both the One MICHELIN Key hotel and an authentic, rustic rifugio.

Indulge in Paris’s most iconic caviar during a winter pop-up at Hôtel de Crillon

Savoir-faire is a term often reserved for chefs and vintners, but century-old Caviar Kaspia has rightfully earned a reputation as a master in the art of caviar.

The Parisian institution has collaborated with everyone from Giambattista Valli to Jacquemus, but this season, it’s popping up in space that couldn’t be more fitting: Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel.

Taking over the gilded Bar Les Ambassadeurs and adjacent Jardin d’Hiver, Caviar Kaspia is adding its signature pop of teal to the marble-clad spaces.

Co-branded winter white matryoshka dolls open to reveal selections of caviar served with signature mother-of-pearl spoons and paired with Kaspia’s iconic vodkas (the cherry is a favourite) and Duval Leroy-crafted house Champagne.

While Kaspa classics like caviar grilled cheese, caviar-topped gamberoni carpaccio, and the caviar-stuffed baked potato are must-orders, try one of the newer plates like the agnolotti del plin with king crab – which pairs beautifully with Kaspia’s Joseph Mellot-crafted Sancerre.

Dine & drink above the Alps at Six Senses Crans-Montana

Swiss hideaway Six Senses Crans-Montana, perched above the main gondola in Crans (half of the swish ski resort duo) is known for spectacular skiing and standout Valais wines, which you can sip on a gourmet snowshoeing tour along woodland trails or at the redesigned Ora Bar.

Here, cocktails and mocktails are infused with ingredients sourced from within a 100-mile radius – and the sweeping mountain views are just as impressive. Start with a sundowner after a day on the slopes, or end the evening at the dedicated cigar and cognac lounge.

To really embrace the alpine feel, ski right in to the expansive, forest-encased terrace of brasserie Wild Cabin, another newish addition to the property, where wood-fired fare is the star of a slopeside lunch that blends the best of local and seasonal ingredients for plates like braised leg of lamb with pumpkin purée and Swiss filet mignon with homemade chimichurri-yoghurt sauce and pearl onions.

Sip Simon Porte Jacquemus’s latest creation delving into the world of champagne

The French designer behind the eponymous mega-hit brand keeps churning out hit after hit, whether it’s on the runway in Paris or transforming a lavender field in Provence into the ultimate catwalk.

For his latest creation, Jacquemus has reimagined Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2018, a limited-edition bottle embossed with Simon’s handwritten logo and signature, wrapped in a couture-like Toile du Marais gauzy fabric.

While the bubbles certainly steal the show, Simon enlisted Camille Orfèvre, one of Paris’s last master metalsmiths, to design a sculptural rafraîchissoir (cooler) inspired by Medici vases that’s handcrafted from silver-plated metal – a work of art that takes more than 40 hours over the course of several weeks to create.

Only 50 (manufactured on request) will be available, and the collector-worthy piece includes a glass set and flight of La Grande Dame vintages: a bottle of 2018 (the 25th vintage of the cuvée originally launched in 1972), a magnum of 2012, and a jeroboam of 1990 – Simon’s birth year.

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A sommelier by trade, with a degree in economics, Jeffrey Koren is director of wine at The Chancery Rosewood, London. His hospitality career began during university in Edinburgh, and he eventually left the corporate world to pursue it full time. He trained in Spain, and worked in top-tier restaurants across the UK and Scandinavia, including as sommelier at Michelin three-star Maaemo in Oslo. He later moved into wine buying at UK merchant Lay & Wheeler, before returning to hospitality as head of wine at Brasserie Marceline in London’s Canary Wharf.

My first memorable wine experience

Funnily enough, I can’t recall the wine I drank! As a student, I moved into a new house and bought the most expensive bottle of red wine my budget would allow and shared it with my new housemates. In many ways, it’s what we try to do with the wine programme at The Chancery Rosewood – not just sell a bottle of wine, but give people a truly unforgettable experience.

My go-to everyday wines

I don’t often drink when I’m at home, but my go-to wines tend to be crisp, fresh and mineral. Albariño is a firm favourite, and there’s almost always a bottle from winemakers Xurxo Alba (of Bodegas Albamar) or Anselmo Mendes in my fridge.

My favourite supermarket buy

I’m always impressed by the value that can be found in white Bordeaux, such as [the dry white from Sauternes] G de Guiraud.

My most embarrassing moment at work

Luckily, I’ve managed to avoid any major embarrassing moments, though I think most wine professionals have managed to break a glass or two in their time.

Pet hate

When it comes to wine pairings or wines by the glass, I prefer to let people come to their own conclusions about the wine rather than provide tasting notes. It’s important to spend time speaking about the people and places behind each bottle, as well as its justification for being included on the list or paired with a particular dish. Tasting notes can be quickly forgotten, but a good story is incredibly memorable.

My death row food and wine pairing

Champagne and fried chicken, or Champagne and oysters, or Champagne and BBQ flavour Hula Hoops, or Champagne and, well, you get the idea…

Best food and wine match at The Chancery Rosewood

There are so many different outlets here that it’s hard to pick a favourite. Alsatian winemaker Christophe Mittnacht’s Cuvée Gyotaku, which is featured in Tobi Masa, has been specially made with Japanese food in mind. His wife Yuka is a talented Japanese chef, and it’s a very gastronomic wine that pairs beautifully with the omakase.

In Serra, the Estate Xinomavro from Ktima Foundi has been a favourite with so many of the Mediterraneaninspired dishes.

In Jacqueline, our executive pastry chef Marius Dufay uses biodynamic produce to create one of the most innovative afternoon teas in London. Domaine Vacheron is one of Sancerre’s truly elite producers and farms biodynamically. The wine matches both the flavours and the space’s philosophy.

My fallback quick after-work fix

Champagne is for all occasions – especially after a long day at work!

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

Given The Chancery Rosewood’s history as the old US embassy, I’m thrilled to have a close relationship with so many iconic American producers. I’m especially proud of our selection of Pinot Noir from Oregon, which includes producers such as Flâneur Wines and Lingua Franca. My personal favourite is the Willamette Valley producer Maggie Harrison of Antica Terra, which makes one of the most hotly sought-after allocations of Oregon Pinot Noir.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Our house Champagne isn’t what people would expect from a property of our size. We are privileged to partner with Pol Roger, and even the entry-level Brut Réserve has been hand-riddled (in the traditional way) and aged for four years in the house’s cellars. The result is a Champagne that stands out as one of the most exciting wines in its category.

Wines I’d avoid ordering from a restaurant list

I’d steer clear of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that wasn’t bottled in New Zealand. I’d also avoid anything ordered in bulk and bottled in market. Organisations such as Appellation Marlborough Wine support local growers, protect the reputation of the region and are a marker for quality.

Wine style I’m most excited about at the moment

Globally, there are so many examples of old-vine Grenache being made well. From places such as Spain, southern France, Australia or South Africa – there are loads of producers making exciting wines.

Wine style/grape that I really don’t enjoy drinking

I’ve never been enamoured with Viognier. There are a few examples I’ve tried that have come close to changing my mind, but I’m yet to be completely convinced.

Wine region/style that offers the greatest value for money right now

Value for money is usually relative. In the context of Burgundy, many exciting wines from the Mâconnais or Hautes-Côtes de Nuits show incredibly well against more highly priced peers. South African wines from top producers remain competitively priced, as do many from Central Europe.

My favourite wine region to visit, and favourite destination while I’m there

I adore Piedmont, and Ristorante Le Torri in the medieval village of Castiglione Falletto in the heart of Barolo is remarkable. There’s nothing quite like Piedmontese hospitality, and the region’s warmth and charm are something that everyone should experience at least once.

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Ask Heston Blumenthal what the secret to a perfect Christmas is and the answer may surprise you.

Is it mastering his groundbreaking technique for triple-cooked chips (or roasties) for the feast? Recreating his hidden orange Christmas pudding? Or going the full molecular gastronomy route and maybe trying your hand at snail porridge or Sound of the Sea?

‘It’s the smell of the Christmas tree,’ declares the celebrated chef of the Michelin three-star The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire. ‘It’s the most important thing of all – more than the food. Smell invokes so many memories.’

I’m in The Hinds Head, Blumenthal’s 15th-century, Michelin one-star pub next door to The Fat Duck, chatting with him and his wife Melanie Ceysson about the upcoming holiday season. Blumenthal, who is rounder now, with whitening whiskers, and is resplendent in a fir-green velvet suit, could be the autumn incarnation of Santa.

‘For some people, Christmas holds bad memories, but for most of us, it’s a moment that brings people together to celebrate, and [that smell] is a massive childhood memory that I’ve kept to adulthood,’ he says. ‘The smell of the Christmas tree takes me back to putting the baubles up, all the chocolate ornaments you hung and then later pulled off to eat, the presents… And as I grew up, the anticipation of Christmas became stronger and stronger.’

This ‘smell of Christmas’ is so important to Blumenthal that he has created a bespoke scent with a perfumier in France – including extracts of pine, cinnamon, raisins and apple – that is used during The Fat Duck services over the festive season to evoke that childhood anticipation among diners.

Celebrating milestones

It’s this emotion and playfulness, which runs throughout Blumenthal’s precise, imaginative, creations, that has seen The Fat Duck remain at the forefront of British cuisine. Last year it celebrated two decades of holding three Michelin stars and this year marks 30 years since Blumenthal opened his famous restaurant.

In addition to purchasing The Hinds Head in 2004, the self-taught chef has also launched Dinner by Heston Blumenthal restaurants in London (Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park) and Dubai – with two and one Michelin stars respectively – and in 2006, he was awarded an OBE for services to British gastronomy.

‘Look, I could never big myself up, but I realise there are some dishes I have done that have changed the world of cooking,’ he says. ‘I rebuffed the molecular gastronomy label because I thought everyone thought it was syringes and pipettes and stuff. Molecular gastronomy as a term makes sense, but I realised what I did was to create multi-sensory gastronomy: tasting, yes, but also smelling, hearing, touching – and feeling.’

Making changes

My conversation with Blumenthal and his wife doesn’t touch on his week-long manic episode in Provence in November 2023, which led to his sectioning, three weeks on a psychiatric ward and an ultimate diagnosis of type 1 bipolar disorder. But it’s clear the medication has affected his memory, speech and balance.

Soon after our meeting, I not only discover that Blumenthal had been prescribed Mounjaro to help manage the weight gained as a side-effect of his medication, but also that this prompted a new reduced menu at The Fat Duck. Designed specifically to cater for diners’ suppressed appetites brought on by weight-loss drugs, as well as a shift toward health-conscious eating, The Mindful Experience offers all of the dishes on The Journey tasting menu, but with portion sizes for each reduced by between 20% and 50%. The cost is £275 – £75 less than The Journey.

This joins the return of the à la carte menu (£195-£225), in celebration of the 30th anniversary, as well as the Christmas menu (£375-£450), which runs until 21 December. And from January, The Fat Duck is introducing The Top Seat, an exclusive solo dining experience that I was lucky enough to be the first to test out the day before our meeting in mid-September.

It was inspired by the increasing number of single diners requesting a booking, and I can confirm that it’s the ultimate treat for any foodie. You have a seat at the kitchen pass, amid all the quietly controlled action and precision of the brigade, along with the chance to chat with and be served by the same chefs you’ve seen prepare your iconic dishes – including two of the most complex desserts The Fat Duck’s pastry team has ever encountered, both of which have wine at their core.

The molecular DRC

For a vertical tasting The Fat Duck hosted with Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in July this year, Blumenthal created Pinot Noir Grape. As he explains it, he broke down the base flavour profile of the wine into molecules and then paired these molecules with food.

It’s a reinvention of another wine-based Fat Duck dessert, Botrytis Cinerea, created in 2012 for a wine event the restaurant hosted with Bordeaux’s Château d’Yquem. The dish – on this year’s Christmas menu – recreates the profile of noble rot (the grape fungus central to Sauternes sweet wine production) and features, among other surprising flavours, tomatoes, Parmesan and fenugreek, along with honey and ‘the tiniest bit of passion fruit’.

‘But the Pinot dish… that was a ball breaker. It was six to 10 months in the making,’ recalls Blumenthal, who flew back and forth to Vosne-Romanée every week to try to capture the complexity and nuance of aromas and flavours in the legendary domaine’s wines.

‘It only came together the day before the dinner,’ he says with a laugh. ‘I was sweating it. To pair a dessert with a non-dessert wine, and for that wine to be DRC Echezeaux… That extra layer was what made it harder than the Botrytis dish to create.

‘Eventually, it was a strawberry macerated with pepper that did it,’ he says, describing one of the 20 elements of Pinot Noir Grape, which requires more than 50 stages of preparation. ‘We had the cep mushrooms, cherry, leather, tobacco and the olive, and the crystallised flowers, cocoa and Parmesan in the soil, but it was that strawberry that made the dish.’

Impulse shoppers

After all that, it’s unsurprising that Blumenthal cites DRC as his favourite producer. But it’s Burgundy in general that has long been his favourite wine. ‘When Burgundy is at its best, it’s the most hedonistic wine you can get: the complexity of smell, taste and texture… And we got a bottle of DRC Romanée-Conti as a wedding gift!’ he exclaims, suddenly remembering. ‘And a bottle of Bâtard-Montrachet!’

‘They’re in storage,’ interjects Ceysson. ‘That’s the start of our collection; it’s a work in progress! Mostly we just go to the supermarket and buy what we want for that night. If we’re travelling, we pick up a few bottles at a wine fair, or a case from wineries we visit, like Mas de Daumas Gassac in Languedoc recently.

‘We don’t really think about it too much; we are very impulsive – we’ve both got ADHD,’ she explains, with Blumenthal chiming in: ‘If we have too much choice, we can just spend an hour staring at a shelf and then walk out because it’s too complicated.’

But there’s one wine style Blumenthal is unlikely to choose. ‘New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc; it was my first “dislike” of wine. I like it a bit more now, but it’s not subtle, is it? It’s not Ladoucette or Cotat,’ he adds as justification, citing two acclaimed Central Loire producers. They discuss what they’ve eaten and drunk together recently. ‘Ragu bolognese and Valpolicella – a slightly aged one,’ says Blumenthal. ‘We had it two weeks ago, it was magic. Dal Forno, I think?’ Ceysson agrees, recalling that it was one of the bottles she bought ‘H’ for Christmas last year.

The Christmas meal

Now living in Provence, the pair’s past two Christmas meals – mainly with friends – have been a unique blend of Anglo-French traditions, with cooking duties shared. ‘She’s going to marry the sous vide machine,’ jokes Blumenthal.

‘We do a seafood platter and of course foie gras,’ says Ceysson. ‘Last year, I challenged myself to cook his Meat Fruit recipe. Not shaping it like a mandarin, but doing the mousse. ‘H always does the poultry. We did capon last year, this year chicken – always Bresse – and he loves to truffle it under the skin.’ (‘It’s about the only time we eat truffle,’ he adds.) ‘And then the veg,’ Ceysson continues. ‘There are lots of similarities between France and the UK, because we both have the potatoes and the greens, but last year, H brought a British touch with the red cabbage. That was good!

‘The cheese board is something very important in France that I bring to our Christmas,’ she adds. ‘We have beautiful cheeses here so we make sure to get some fancy ones. Like Brie de Meaux with truffles…’ ‘Britain produces more cheese than France, you know,’ adds her husband.

Anglo-French desserts

The conversation moves to dessert and Blumenthal makes a surprising revelation: ‘I never liked Christmas pudding until I did the hidden orange one for Waitrose. The thing that really turned me on to it was I steamed it, not microwaved it. It was wonderful! But you can’t eat too much of it.’

Since the UK supermarket ended its partnership with Blumenthal in early 2023, The Fat Duck team has sold a candied clementine christmas pudding via its website. ‘Last time we had it,’ he says, ‘Melanie poured about half a bottle of Cognac over the top. I’m surprised the firefighters didn’t come!’

Ceysson’s contribution to the sweet side of the festive feast has been ‘les treize desserts’ – an old Provence tradition, where 13 desserts (representing Jesus and the 12 apostles) are served after Christmas Eve dinner. Each guest must eat all 13 to guarantee good luck for the year to come. They include dried fruit and nuts, quince paste, fresh fruit, nougat, marzipan, candied fruits, biscuits and cakes – which often includes a yule log, or bûche de Noël.

‘We did have a bûche last year, but our dog ate it,’ says Ceysson. ‘Do you remember H? We had finally discovered a good patisserie guy, we found this village, drove quite far and really made a big effort to get this pastry. Harry – he’s a British Bulldog – he was really quiet at one point and we couldn’t understand why. We went to find him and…’

‘There was chocolate everywhere,’ finishes Blumenthal. ‘Harry had a good Christmas present.’

Switching off

‘We haven’t even spoken about Christmas presents yet, have we?’ Blumenthal asks. ‘How about a bit of peace?’ suggests Ceysson. ‘In the world and in life. That would be nice.’

She smiles and then reveals that when the restaurants close in December and January, and ‘it’s his time for a proper break; his mind can switch off’, there are always two things stashed in the suitcases they take to Provence.

The first is the scent of Christmas that Blumenthal created with the perfumier. ‘We spray it all around the house,’ she says. The second is the mince pies. ‘It’s the only thing we don’t cook. We always ask The Fat Duck pastry chefs for a box. It’s our little treat.’

‘And we usually eat them well before Christmas,’ adds Blumenthal. ‘We can’t wait!’

Just like those chocolate ornaments off the tree from his childhood.

Michelin-level mince pies

The Fat Duck’s mince pies (pictured below) – the ones Heston and Melanie take to France – are incredible. But preparing them is best left to the professionals. They take three days to make, require a vacuum sealer, sous-vide machine and meat injector, and the recipe calls for 45 ingredients – including Wagyu beef short ribs and Golden Oscietra caviar.

But if you still want to try your hand at making Michelin-starred mince pies, Heston has shared the recipe from Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (main image, above), which is far simpler and can be made using shop-bought ingredients and domestic kitchen appliances. Fruit mince (This recipe makes a lot, so you can keep any unused jars for the following year).

Fruit mince

(This recipe makes a lot, so you can keep any unused jars for the following year)

• 400g pears, peeled and chopped
• 400g Bramley apples, peeled and chopped
• 260g suet
• 300g raisins
• 200g sultanans
• 200g dried cranberries
• 200g currants
• 120g candied lemon peel, chopped
• 120g candied orange peel, chopped
• 240g muscovado sugar
• 2 each oranges & lemons, zest and juice
• 100g pecans, chopped
• 400ml brandy
• 200ml verjus
• 100g Sherry (not fino or manzanilla)
• 6g ground cinnamon
• 4g ground ginger
• 160g candied ginger in syrup, chopped

Method

Place all the liquids in a small pan and bring to the boil. Add all the other ingredients and slowly simmer while continually stirring. Keep reducing until thick – about 20-30 minutes – then leave to cool. Store in sanitised jars in the fridge for at least a month to mature, the longer the better. But you can also use it straight away if you don’t have the time.

Pastry

• 375g flour
• 260g butter, cold, in cubes
• 1 whole egg
• 125g golden caster sugar
• pinch of salt

Method

Place the flour, salt and cold butter in a stand mixer. With a paddle on low speed, work it until it becomes a fine crumb with no butter lumps left. Add the sugar and let it incorporate. Last, add the egg and let it just come together. Tip onto a work surface to bring it all together with your hands. Wrap up in cling film and rest in the fridge for one hour before rolling. Remove the dough from the fridge and leave at room temperature for 30min. Roll to 2mm with a light dusting of flour then rest for one hour before cutting. Use a 50mm (or whatever size you have) fluted cutter to cut out bases of the tart shell. Press into greased or lined mini tart tins and blind bake at 180°C/gas 4 for 10-12 minutes. Allow to cool. Any excess pastry can be placed on a tray and baked at the same temperature and time. Once cooked and cooled, break this excess pastry into small pieces to sprinkle on top of the finished pies.

To compile

To make 12 pies, use 300g of the prepared mincemeat that has been mixed with 5g of mandarin zest. Fill each blind-baked pastry case with 25g of mincemeat (increase or decrease this quantity depending on the size of your cases) and sprinkle with the crumbled pastry. Either serve as is, or warmed through, and dusted lightly with icing sugar.

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New York born and Amsterdam bred, Ava Mees List goes by her middle name, pronounced ‘Mase’. She has worked as a sommelier at Noma in Copenhagen since 2019, becoming the restaurant’s beverage director in 2022. Starting her career as a part-time bartender at an Art Deco literary café in Amsterdam after finishing her studies in cultural anthropology, she soon decided to dedicate her professional life to learning about and travelling for wine. From 2015 to 2018, Mees worked at sister restaurants Saturne and Clown Bar in Paris before moving to Copenhagen.

My first memorable wine experience

I didn’t really get into wine (or hospitality) until I was 25. Two months after I started my first job at Café Schiller in Amsterdam, my then boss Florien took me along to a pretty raucous winemakers’ party at Cave St Martin in Roquebrun, Roussillon, France. The owner was a good friend of Marcel Lapierre [of Domaine Lapierre in Beaujolais] and the only drinks served were red wine, mulled red wine and coffee. We called it the Purple Teeth Festival and it made me fall in love with the natural wine community. Before that, my signature drink was a house tequila and bitter lemon highball – I never looked back.

My go-to everyday wines

Jacques Lassaigne, Les Vignes de Montgueux made by Emmanuel Lassaigne. I know it is ridiculous to name a Champagne as an everyday wine, but during my time in Paris, I learned to disassociate the region from celebratory events. I keep a bottle in the fridge at all times.

My favourite supermarket buy

I don’t believe in mass-produced, cheap wine, so I definitely don’t buy wine in a supermarket. If something is that cheap, somewhere in the world someone or something is paying the price. Also, support your local wine shop!

My most embarrassing moment at work

Once I told one of our guests that she looked just like this actress from one of my favourite Hollywood movies. ‘Actually, that was me,’ she said. Oops! I had no idea she was originally Danish. I kind of floated away from the table but we had a good laugh about it together later that evening.

Pet peeve

Some sommeliers tend to give extensive tasting notes, which I find kind of a turnoff – they can come across as imperative, and I prefer drinking with an open mind. For this reason, we do not do this at Noma.

My death row food and wine pairing

Yvon Métras Fleurie and dim sum.

Best food and wine match at noma

Currently, grilled artichoke hearts with a sauce of walnuts and truffle with a blueberry vinaigrette and wild-foraged greens from the beach, paired with an aged sake called Time Machine by Kinoshita Brewery on the north coast of Kyoto, served at room temperature.

My fallback quick after-work meal

I make a Greek salad pretty much every day and occasionally I will bring back an open bottle from a pairing, like a light red or a Georgian white – but, truth be told, I rarely drink at home.

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

During our time doing pop-ups in Japan (where I made an all-Japanese wine and sake pairing), we became closely connected to Beau Paysage, a Yamanashi domaine making beautiful wines. We have managed to bring them back to Copenhagen and I’m proud to serve them.

The biggest surprise on my list

We get our fair share of sceptics afraid of the 100% natural wine list – I love surprising them with wines that might be recognisable to their palate but made without being filtered or heavily sulphured. It opens their mind to the broad spectrum of natural wine.

Wines I’d order on a restaurant list

Get a Coteaux Champenois when you see it. With warmer vintages have come beautiful still wines from Champagne that go so well with food. Also, your sommelier’s eyes will likely instantly turn heart shaped when you ask them about it.

Wine region I’m most excited about

For our upcoming Los Angeles pop-up I have just spent a month travelling around California, researching a wine region I never really had any interest in. I was lucky to meet some very special people making great wine in a market flooded with overly extracted oak bombs.

Wine style I really don’t enjoy drinking

I know they’re all the rage, but aromatic skin-contact wines like Muscat are not really my jam.

Best value wine region right now

Catalonia, Spain, and the other side of the border in southwest France.

My favourite wine region to visit

Jura is like home. I love being in Arbois and having lunch at Le Bistrot des Claquets with my friend Florien Kleine Snuverink of Les Bottes Rouges (yes, the same Florien I worked with 16 years ago in Amsterdam) or sitting on the terrace of the Domaine de la Tournelle winebar/shed. Otherwise, Georgia, for all the reasons imaginable. What a place. Wow.

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I often get asked if I’m a sommelier. The answer is always, firmly, ‘No.’

Sommeliers are at the frontline when it comes to wine, guiding diners with myriad requirements through their list. They have to translate wine-speak for those who simply want a glass of something tasty. They have to translate non-wine-speak into something the table will like. They have to navigate different tastes, budgets, knowledge levels – all with a smile.

It’s thus unsurprising, perhaps, that many sommeliers slip into writing – taking their skills from the table to the page. Two new books graced my postbox recently, both from somms of serious class.

First up is Jordan Salcito’s Smart Mouth: Wine Essentials for You, Me and Everyone We Know (£30 Ten Speed Press, October 2025). Salcito has worked the floor at establishments such as Eleven Madison Park in New York, but she also created Ramona – a canned spritz that littered my social feeds a few summers ago.

Her debut book is conceived to take you ‘from a D student to an A’, building on an initial interest and guiding you through principles of wine – tasting, winemaking, soils and farming – through to common grapes and regions, as well as practical tips on food pairing and storing and drinking wine.

The writing is bright and light, engaging and conversational, and filled with nuggets of knowledge that will leave you hankering for more.

The second book comes courtesy of Bert Blaize, an awarded London-based sommelier who has worked at the Clove Club, and journalist Victoria Brzezinski. Drinking the World: A Wine Odyssey (£22 Harper Collins, November 2025) takes a totally different tack.

The compact hardback is a collection of tales from around the world of wine. It’s broken down by country and region, offering personal introductions to each, but with a focus on lesser-known areas. Each region in the spotlight is explored through the story of a single producer.

Bordeaux doesn’t get a look in, but you’ll find sections on Luxembourg, Poland, Japan and Bolivia. Profiles of each producer are accompanied by quick-fire Q&As, covering the winemaker’s favourite bar and restaurant, artistic influences and more – offering a handy travel compendium for a visit.

Like Salcito’s book, it does an excellent job of reeling the reader in – drawing you ever further into the world of wine, inspiring you to continue the odyssey you’ve started in its pages.

Water and wine

Hock, claret and Port long dominated the wine trade – but why? It wasn’t just their quality – it was also geography, of course: their access to water and, more importantly, the associated flow of trade.

Robert Winder’s Three Rivers: The Extraordinary Waterways that Made Europe (Elliot & Thompson, August 2025, £20) is a riveting new book that dives into how Europe’s most prominent rivers (the Rhine, Rhône and Po – not the Douro/Duero, I’m afraid) have defined the continent’s evolution, including its wine trade – all enlivened by Winder’s evocative writing.

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Restaurants, in all their totality, are a form of improbable magic. In the best of cases, they’re the antidote to real life: dimly lit rooms buoyed by the current of disparate conversations, removed from the noise of the outside world, where sensory pleasure is delivered on silver platters, glasses are never emptied, and someone else handles washing the dishes.

Needless to say, the escapist grandeur of that dining experience is the sum of many parts. Yes, at the forefront, there’s the food – but there’s also the decor, the lighting, the music, the staff, the pacing, the glassware, and of course, the wine programme.

So why, then, does the latter feel so curiously absent from restaurant reviews?

The quintessential ‘restaurant review’ carries a great deal of power. Amidst our current cast of media-fluent, keyed-in consumers, it dictates a sizeable number of dining decisions – and as such, in an extraordinarily competitive (and oversaturated) restaurant scene, reviews can indeed make or break a venue.

That said, for all the immense influence these critics wield, they seem curiously allergic to the matter of wine.

In the recent raving review of Smithereens in The New York Times, the unique (off-dry-Riesling-forward) wine programme was entirely absent save for one line – and in a similarly timed review of Le Veau D’Or, the wine director’s name was misprinted (a local legend for his curatorial acumen).

While reviewing Manuela, a LA Weekly critic mentions ordering wine, but doesn’t specify what kind.

Drinks writer Alex Delany puts the problem simply: ‘Reviewing only select parts of a restaurant is a disservice to the reader and the diner. It would be like reviewing ¾ of a movie.’

‘Excellent wine programmes are not transferable’

Listen, I’m well aware that not all diners drink – but not all diners eat red meat either, and you’d be hard pressed to find a critic who won’t order the steak. And of course, wine is not made in-house like perhaps the bread service (you can purchase the very same bottle at a variety of restaurants) – but the art of the wine list is not craftsmanship, it’s curation.

And a well-wrought wine list is no small feat. It requires cross-regional and cross-vintage knowledge, as well as consistent updating. It requires breadth and versatility to suit a number of different palates. It requires foresight – an understanding of what to cellar, what to open, what to print on the list, what to pour by the glass. It requires an eye for bottles that offer value… without egregious price tags. And most of all, it requires a keen attunement to pairings.

Excellent wine programmes are not transferable – they’re entirely tailored to the food (and the rooms) they serve.

‘Beverage programmes are often there to make food taste better… sometimes without people even realising it,’ says Yana Volfson, who’s created award-winning wine programmes across Enrique Olvera’s restaurants in NYC and Los Angeles (Cosme, Atla, Damian).

‘We’re like a secret weapon: we come in, slide a wine glass in front of you and splash you with something that makes you smile – and the next thing you know, your palate is layered and blanketed with another nuance of flavour meant to contrast or align with a bite you’ve just had, or one you’re about to have.’

Volfson is right: While beverage programmes have plenty of standalone items to offer, in the grand scheme of a restaurant ecosystem, they’re particularly impressive when they’re so well incorporated, they simply exist to elevate everything else you’re consuming (whether or not you notice). They’re supporting actors, humbly forfeiting the spotlight while bolstering the star of the show (the food).

An ‘endlessly intimidating’ industry

Of course, it’s worth mentioning that I am a wine journalist by trade. Much to the (rightful) chagrin of my dining companions, I can spend far more time than feels appropriate poring over a wine list or enquiring after the sommelier’s points of interest. This is not the case for all diners.

‘I actually don’t feel like I need to know anything about a wine list ahead of time. I’ll ask someone else to choose for me based on what I’m ordering, either way,’ a friend told me when I asked whether or not she, too, felt the lack of beverage focus in restaurant reviews.

‘I don’t need to know anything crazy in depth,’ another friend reported. ‘But I do wanna know if I should be ordering wine instead of cocktails, or if the somm is cool and interesting, or if there’s some scheme or process behind the list. I find it a little strange that somms and beverage directors are never interviewed in any of the reviews the way chefs are.’

Amidst a handful of individuals polled, the reviews were mixed – which is to say, plenty of folks did not feel slighted by a lack of beverage discourse.

Per Eric Asimov, the wine critic at The New York Times, the same general poll holds true: ‘How a critic treats a wine list depends both on the restaurant and the format of the publication… when wine is crucial to the character of a restaurant, I would like to see a few sentences in the text of the review. For a general interest audience, I don’t think you need more than that.’

And according to Volfson, beverage is not always absent – she’s been properly commended for her beverage programmes in reviews more than once in the past, noting that former critics like Sam Sifton and Frank Bruni often paid close attention to what was available to drink.

As Asimov points out, there are restaurants for which the wine or the beverage programme is indeed a far smaller consideration than the food. Their lists are afterthoughts in the grand scheme of the dining experience in question, and thus it goes without saying that their corresponding chefly pursuits deserve greater review real estate.

Then again, the opposite case is just as likely. ‘When we opened Torrisi, it received a glowing three-star review from Pete Wells,’ says Bradley Nugent, who helms wine programmes across all Major Food Group properties. ‘The amount of time and energy I put into that wine programme and our bar manager puts into that cocktail programme was insane… and it was completely glazed over.’

As he explains it, Rich Torrisi, the man responsible for the venue’s food, is enormously talented – and he deserved every bit of the praise that appeared in The New York Times. But why not make space for beverage in addition?

‘In today’s age, it feels like skilled beverage experts are few and far between. Most places don’t even have somms anymore,’ he continues. ‘But if you’re a critic and you sit down in a restaurant that’s taken the time, energy and capital to hire a somm or beverage director, shouldn’t you notice that? Shouldn’t that experience factor into your review?’

It’s also worth noting that wine is plenty gatekept.

It’s an industry that’s endlessly intimidating to enter. Rife with niche scientific knowledge, difficult pronunciations, and a rolodex of grape varieties, regions, and producers that ought to be kept in mind, it can feel utterly impenetrable.

In fact, most committed wine professionals won’t even achieve mastery, so how can we expect our restaurant critics to do so as well?

‘It takes a lot of experience to be able to read a wine list and immediately identify what makes it artful or intentional,’ Matt Ross, a wine rep for Jenny & François Selections, told me. ‘And few writers and critics are expert enough to risk having a strong take.’

It’s a hard line to walk and even among snubbed beverage directors, no one is suggesting that culinary programs get less airtime – or that they’re not deserving of all the superlative praise they receive.

It’s just that, somewhere in there, especially when the restaurant in question has funnelled determined care into its beverage programme, a little praise (or even critique!) is welcome. Sure, that might mean taking risks or admitting ignorance. It might mean seeking out food critics with intentional wine backgrounds. It might mean sending writers with wine expertise to draft distinct sections of a restaurant’s review alongside a food critic.

At bottom, reviewers are not everyday diners. They’re pseudo-celebrities with power… and I, for one, don’t find it egregious to posit that they ought to know better than the rest of us when it comes to wine and food.

We’re too late in the game to call a beverage director an ‘unsung hero’ in a formal review. It’s about time someone started singing.

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Midway between Burgundy’s Côte d’Or and Côte-Rôtie in the northern Rhône, and close to the major city of Lyon, you’d think that Beaujolais would be one of the most visited wine regions in France: a vital pitstop on anyone’s vinous pilgrimage.

Instead, wine tourism in Beaujolais is, to say the least, underdeveloped. Despite the willingness of many of the region’s best domaines to fling their doors open wide and welcome visitors, tasting rooms remain relatively quiet.

Having spent substantial periods in Beaujolais researching my recently published book, The Wines of Beaujolais, I have to say that I think you’re all missing a trick. Leaving aside the warm welcome extended by producers in Beaujolais, there are plenty of other reasons to tempt wine lovers to visit the area.

To begin with, there’s the sheer natural beauty of the vineyards. The location of Beaujolais, lying between the Massif Central on its western side and the Alps over to the east, has given rise to an undulating landscape that affords new views every time you turn a corner.

Perching on slopes or nestling in valleys, small villages are built out of local stone – pink granite and blue diorite in the crus in the region’s northern section, and orange-tinged limestone in the south.

In addition to aesthetic pleasures, you’ll find hedonistic ones, too. The region’s wines are on the up: quality is high and the range of styles made from Gamay, the hallmark Beaujolais grape, is surprisingly diverse. Even so, prices remain resolutely affordable.

Good wine goes hand in hand with great gastronomy, of course, and the restaurant scene in Beaujolais has recently rediscovered its mojo.

Visitors can look forward to tucking into Michelin-starred meals, as well as hearty country cuisine. All of this bounty is packed into a tiny region that measures just over 70km in length, and – at most – 20km from east to west.

Most of the visitable wineries are located in the crus and it’s rare to have to drive more than 15 minutes from one tasting to the next. Some wineries are even within easy walking distance of each other.

The 10 Beaujolais crus

Some better known than others, there are 10 individual, named appellations in the Beaujolais region where the highest-quality wines are produced. Running in a roughly contiguous line north to south, between the villages of Chânes and St-Etienne-la-Varenne, they are:

St-Amour | Juliénas | Chénas | Moulin-à-Vent | Fleurie | Chiroubles | Morgon | Régnié | Brouilly | Côte de Brouilly

Jump to: Beaujolais map | Where to eat and drink | Wineries to visit

Where to stay in Beaujolais

One of the key reasons that Beaujolais has remained off most travellers’ radars is perhaps that, until recently, high-quality accommodation was in fairly short supply.

The region has gîtes, but most are targeted at large groups celebrating weddings or family reunions, with the emphasis placed on modest pricing rather than modern comforts. But there’s a new(ish) generation of boutique hotels and chambres d’hôtes opening that cater to a more discriminating clientele.

The Auberge de Clochemerle, named after a popular comic novel that celebrates life in a small French village, is one of the region’s more established hotels. Situated in the southern reaches of the Beaujolais Villages zone, a little southwest of St-Etienne-la-Varenne, it makes a great base from which to explore both the crus and the southern Beaujolais AP region.

If your focus is largely on exploring the crus, you may be best off based at Auberge du Paradis, situated at the northern tip of Beaujolais in the pretty village of St-Amour-Bellevue, just over the border from the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy.

It’s slightly more modern in decor than Clochemerle, but equally old-fashioned when it comes to extending a warm welcome to guests, and the sumptuous breakfast certainly gets a day’s tasting off to a good start.

If you want to be further south, though, you might want to book a night or two at the Maison de Pagneux, one of the new breed of luxury chambres d’hôtes springing up in the region.

This splendid stone-built house is situated on the outskirts of the village of Lachassagne, whose ochre-hued pierre dorée limestone buildings are characteristic of southern Beaujolais. The house boasts three well-appointed guest bedrooms, each with an en-suite bathroom. The young couple who run this B&B are both talented cooks, so the table d’hôte (a seasonally changing set menu) comes highly recommended.

A final option for anyone planning a longer stay is to rent a gîte. Steer clear of the old-school, party-focused accommodation and book one of the five self-catering suites at La Maison du Village in Romanèche-Thorins.

The comfortable apartments are housed in a building above the wine bar La Mine, and although the village itself lacks much in the way of nightlife, it makes a good central base from which to explore Beaujolais’ charms.

Getting around Beaujolais

It’s worth noting that, wherever you choose to stay, nothing is very far away in Beaujolais. The driving time from the Auberge du Paradis, which overlooks some of the region’s most northerly vineyards, to the Maison de Pagneux in the far south is around 40 minutes – and from there it’s only another 40 minutes’ drive to the heart of Lyon, France’s third-most populous city.

Where to eat and drink in Beaujolais

When it comes to finding great places to eat and drink in Beaujolais, gourmands and gourmets alike are spoiled for choice.

Maison du Cru

If you just fancy a glass of Chiroubles and a bird’s-eye view, stop off at the appellation’s high-altitude Maison du Cru, whose terrace perched at 740m affords spectacular panoramas of vineyards and wooded hillsides, and whose wine shop offers a range of some of the cru’s best bottlings.

XVIII sur Vins

You get less of a view at XVIII sur Vins (Instagram: @xviii_sur_vins), a wine bar in Belleville-en-Beaujolais, but you do get a broader selection of wines to drink sur place or to take away, along with good-sized portions of charcuterie, cheese and salads.

Epicerie Saint-Etienne des Oullières

The equally informal Epicerie Saint-Etienne des Oullières (Instagram: @epiceriedubojo) is a small village shop on the main drag in St-Etienne-des-Oullières that sells groceries and locally produced wines, and doubles up as a bistro at lunchtime and on Friday evenings. The menu changes with the seasons and there’s always something on offer for vegetarians (not always the case in rural France).

La Mine

La Mine, a lively wine bar, is located on the ground floor beneath Romanèche-Thorin’s Maison du Village gîte. It’s only open Thursdays to Saturdays, but is always buzzing, with plenty to do thanks to an evolving program of live music, tutored tastings and other activities.

Auberge du Paradis

The Auberge du Paradis in St-Amour-Bellevue has two restaurants. The fancier one, Lucienne Fait des Siennes (named in honour of the chef’s dog), has to be one of the world’s most idiosyncratically named establishments. I favour the more relaxed Joséphine à Table, the Platonic ideal of a French village bistro, complete with a stunning – and copious – dish of poulet au vin jaune with morels, my regular order.

Les Moblots

The wine list is particularly notable – and great value, too. I’m also extremely fond of Les Moblots in St-Julien, northwest of Villefranche-sur-Saône, a bustling village bistro that serves as a canteen to many of the winemakers based nearby. A strong wine list complements a short menu of light, modern takes on classic French cuisine.

Café Terroir Chez Saint-Cyr

Further south, the Café Terroir Chez Saint-Cyr just west of Anse is, as the name suggests, based at the Saint-Cyr winery. It’s the perfect place to take a break from a day’s tasting and enjoy a light lunch with a view out over the vineyards, accompanied by one of the bottles produced at the winery or by one of Raphaël Saint-Cyr’s many friends.

Beurre Noisette

Staying in the southern part of Beaujolais, Beurre Noisette in Lucenay offers a refined, creative, veggie-friendly menu and an interesting, varied wine list sourced from many of the region’s best producers, as well as from further afield.

Ema

You’ll find similarly smart restaurants further north in Beaujolais, of course. Ema is perched high on a hillside that faces west, towards the forested slopes of the Beaujolais Vert. The restaurant’s terrace is the ideal spot for a long, lazy summer lunch chosen from a short but precise, carefully plated menu and an extensive wine list.

Auberge de Clochemerle

Beaujolais has two Michelin-starred restaurants. The one housed on the ground floor of the Auberge de Clochemerle recently regained its star thanks to the understated elegance of its food.

The basic ‘M’ menu looks as if it only offers three courses. Don’t be fooled. The parade of pre-prandial snacks and a generous procession of petit fours means you should count on eating far more than you might imagine. The wine list is compendious, as is the norm at this level of service.

Auberge du Cep

There’s an equally weighty wine list at Fleurie’s Auberge du Cep, which offers a combination of classic French cuisine, and the best of regional and seasonal ingredients.

You can splash out on a nine-course menu (10 if you’re really hungry and tuck into an additional slice of the Auberge’s signature pâté en croute), but canny guests opt for the lunchtime menu du marché, which offers two courses for €35 or three for €40.

Wineries to visit in Beaujolais: 14 of the best

If you’ve come to stay in Beaujolais, you’re here for the wine, right? Many of the region’s best producers are happy to welcome visitors, although almost all of them prefer you to make an appointment beforehand rather than just pitching up on spec.

In many cases, the small scale of the operation means that you may well find yourself tasting in the company of the person who grows the grapes and makes the wines.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent

The Château du Moulin-à-Vent, just along the road from the famous windmill itself, is among the cru’s foremost producers. The single-vineyard wines are benchmark examples.

Domaine Richard Rottiers

Based in the same appellation, Domaine Richard Rottiers offers an informal tasting of Rottiers’ elegant cuvées.

Domaine David-Beaupère

The tasting room at Domaine David-Beaupère overlooks the steep vineyards of Juliénas, giving visitors a greater appreciation of the amount of hard work that goes into the creation of the domaine’s dense, dark wines.

Domaine de la Madone

Perched on a hillside beneath Fleurie’s famous landmark chapel, Domaine de la Madone offers one of the slickest visitor tasting experiences in the region. Tour the vineyards and winery, discover the secrets of winemaking and learn about Fleurie’s prized terroir, concluding with a guided tasting of the domaine’s wines.

Domaine de la Grosse Pierre

At Domaine de la Grosse Pierre in Chiroubles, Pauline Passot crafts some of the cru’s most refined, elegant cuvées.

Domaine Mee Godard

Many of Morgon’s most prestigious producers aren’t open to visitors, but Mee Godard makes some of the cru’s most exciting wines and is happy to host tastings by appointment.

Brouilly and the Côte de Brouilly

There’s an abundance of choice for anyone wanting to visit producers in Brouilly and the Côte de Brouilly, from the opulently renovated Château de la Chaize to the quietly classic Château Thivin and the up-and-coming Domaine les Roches Bleues.

Beaujolais Village

The Beaujolais Village appellation, which is widely scattered around the periphery of the zone occupied by the 10 crus, is increasingly the source of some of the region’s most exciting winemaking.

Find out why with a visit to Frédéric Berne in Lantignié or, a little further south, Domaine les Garçons in Charentay or Domaine de Mont Joly near Blacé.

Southern Beaujolais

Much of southern Beaujolais, the main zone for AP Beaujolais, is dedicated to the production of grapes destined for négociant wines and for Crémant de Bourgogne (about 60% of the grapes for this fizz are actually grown in Beaujolais, local producers are keen to point out) – but there are a handful of producers in the area who make characterful, idiosyncratic wines.

Just southwest of Blacé, Célia & David Large definitely – and defiantly – walk on the wild side, with many of their cuvées classified as Vin de France rather than AP Beaujolais or Beaujolais Villages.

The wines of Domaine Saint-Cyr, just to the west of Anse, are perhaps more classic, but that doesn’t make them any less thrilling.

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Born in South Korea, sommelier Minyoung Ryu worked in fine dining establishments around the world before coming on board at Bali’s Potato Head luxury resort in 2023 to set up a natural wine bar and restaurant, Dome. It is a world away from the more traditional establishments she had spent her career in previously, and she has relished the challenge of bringing an outsider’s perspective to pairing wines with Indonesian flavours. 

‘My parents are very open minded, and gave me the freedom to make decisions by myself. In South Korea most people go to university after high school, but as I didn’t know what I wanted to study, I felt that university would be a waste of money. But not going to university is seen as a failure in our culture. I was sick of people sharing their opinions on my life, so one night I packed my bags – in the middle of the night – and left.

‘I remembered a peaceful place I had seen on a documentary, in a quiet mountain area. I travelled there and found a guesthouse. I didn’t realise at first, but it turned out to be a volunteer project, with a lot of European visitors. We shared meals and sometimes people would bring wine. One person had brought homemade wine from their grandparents. It was the first time I felt truly curious about wine, not just as a drink, but as a story, like history for me, as culture, as a connection.

‘Later, I returned home for Christmas and went to buy a cake at a big market. I happened to stop by the wine section, and someone recommended a wine to pair with the cake. It was Moscato d’Asti, a dessert wine, and something I’d never tasted before. I’d always thought wine was dry and bitter, but this was sweet, aromatic, and completely unexpected. It was a small moment, but it really changed my perspective. That experience made me start thinking seriously about wine as a possible career path.

‘Korea had introduced Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) courses a few years previously and, with the encouragement of my mother, I gained my Levels 1 and 2. My instructor then told me that Koreans were able to spend six months in the UK without a visa, so I decided to travel there to study for my Level 3. Before London, I volunteered at Brühler Hof, a small, family-run, organic winery in Bad Kreuznach, Germany. It was my first real experience in wine and agriculture, and it had a big impact on me.

‘In London, I worked as a helper at the Decanter World Wine Awards judging week. I found it inspirational. I watched the judges and I thought, “I want to be able to do that”.

I got my first job as a junior sommelier in London, and after the UK I went to work in Australia, in Margaret River and in a restaurant in Melbourne, followed by a restaurant in Hong Kong – where I was the only non-French employee. It was very fun; I ate a lot of cheese! In Hong Kong I worked with a number of different restaurants and cuisines – Middle Eastern, Southern Italian, French and Chilean. During the pandemic I worked on a new opening in the Maldives, as well as at Raffles where I learned about the operational side of restaurants.

‘All of these experiences expanded my understanding of how to pair wine with a wide range of flavours and cultural influences. I thought about taking a break, but I was contacted about the role at Potato Head! It was a role where I could have a lot of creativity and freedom. I look after the wine menus for all the venues within the resort – each restaurant is different and has a list that reflects that, and the lists get a refresh every six months.

‘Whenever I come to a country, I think it is important to understand the nation, the people, what is eaten, enjoyed – the flavours. I often speak with my junior, who is from Bali, about flavours and spices. As a Korean I am used to spices used in fermentation, whereas Balinese spices are fresh, so can be paired with wines that are juicier and fruitier – with Primitivo, for instance, which is one of the easiest pairings, and a wine that international guests are familiar with. There are also a lot of smoky flavours in Indonesian cuisine, as ingredients are cooked over charcoal, so that is another element to think about.

‘We do have an Indonesian wine on the list. I was doubtful, but when I tasted it, I thought “Woah! It really tastes of Bali: galangal ginger, some spices, ylang ylang fruits, floral characters, and a touch of orange citrus. But also, a minerality and straightforwardness. I believe, because the Bali soil is very volcanic, it is driving these flavours into the glass. I knew that the wine would pair easily with the cuisine. It’s made from the Moscato grape, naturally fermented, unfiltered and with no added preservatives, the maker’s approach to winemaking very much part of the story of the wine.

‘My focus nowadays is on engaging with guests. I see my job as a curator, which includes sharing stories of how winemakers produce their wines. It’s about choosing wines that make sense for guests, and communicating about those wines. It is about taking into account what guests feel comfortable and familiar with, while reflecting the dishes and bringing out the Indonesian and Bali flavours. It’s a balancing act, but one that I love.’

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Born in a village near Perugia in Umbria, twin brothers Augusto and Alberto Gherardi head up the prestigious education programme at the Gordon Ramsay Restaurants group, and run their own wine communication business, The Wine Jokers, studying for the Master of Wine qualification in their spare time. Winners of the 2025 Sommelier Edit Excellence in Education award, the unstoppable pair took time out to speak to Decanter about their own journey and what’s hot on the Umbrian wine scene.

Alberto: ‘We don’t come from a wine background. Our family is in fashion – they have their own brand, Alessandro Gherardi, and also work for labels such as Ferragamo, Dior and Louis Vuitton. So many people are surprised when we tell them we decided to follow a completely different path. We started from scratch.’

Augusto: ‘Wine has always been an important part of our lives, though, with classic Italian family meals around the table. Growing up, our grandmother introduced us to the world of (often bretty!) diluted wine – that’s also why we both still love a tiny bit of brett in wine!’

Augusto: ‘In our work as wine education managers, we run WSET courses (Levels 1-3) for staff and for the public, and the company has also just opened a site at 22 Bishopsgate, London, that focuses more on cooking classes, corporate masterclasses and events. It was great to win the award for Excellence in Education – it’s a reminder we’re going in the right direction.’

Augusto: ‘I think it was our curiosity and willingness to expand our horizons in the world of wine that brought us to London. [The brothers interned as sommeliers for the opening of five-star boutique hotel The Londoner.] We believe that this city is still the most dynamic market in the world for wine. In just one shop here, we were able to select 90 wines for our MW exam preparation – in Italy, this would have required months of research.’

Alberto: ‘We share tips for facing the challenges [of the MW programme]. We make the most out of this bond that we have… we always have a partner to study with, which is important. It’s like playing tennis: one of the biggest challenges is finding a person to play with – we don’t have that challenge!’

Augusto: ‘What makes Umbrian wines distinct is our indigenous grape varieties and the fact that Umbrian winemakers are following more organic, natural and sustainable practices. Some extraordinary orange wines from Trebbiano Spoletino are being made, and producers are seeking greater freshness and lower alcohol levels while looking to alternative vessels such as concrete and clay eggs.’

Alberto: ‘Umbria needs to move away from the misconception that it is simply a “cheaper Tuscany” and create its own identity, focusing on making Sagrantino more approachable and earlier-drinking. Another central selling point for Umbria is its lakes: our lake fish pairs well with Grechetto- and Trebbiano Spoletino-based whites. Wine alone is powerful, but if combined with unique regional traditions, it can really make a splash in the market.’

Augusto: ‘My perfect regional wine and food pairing? Strangozzi pasta with butter and white truffle (many of the best actually come from Umbria), served with the Cardissa Chardonnay from boutique winery Morami. It’s well balanced and made in a rich, creamy Burgundian style, with some new oak fermentation and maturation. It’s perfect with the intensely aromatic white truffle and the buttery character of the strangozzi.’

Alberto: ‘I’d go for a very traditional Umbrian Easter dish: grilled lamb with Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG from Paolo Bea – a very good artisanal producer. The lamb has enough structure to match the wine’s glycerin viscosity and waxy texture. The passito style’s residual sugar counterbalances the lamb’s earthy flavour and the smoky, charcoal character.’

Alberto: ‘Beyond Umbria, I believe Lambrusco is very exciting. It ticks all the boxes for market trends and Generation Z’s preferences: bubbles, rosé styles and lower alcohol. Some producers are also focusing on premiumisation: Cantina della Volta is great for bottle-fermented styles.’

Augusto: ‘The Valle d’Aosta in Italy’s Alpine far northwest is one to watch. It has a similarly continental climate to Umbria [and produces] authentic, terroir-driven wines – exciting things happen at high elevation. There’s lots of freshness, vibrancy and fragrant notes in the wines. There is great value and versatility to be found.’

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My boyfriend is thirsty and the sommelier has handed me, an oenophile, a wine list the size of an A4 box file into which I’m about to disappear as if on the beach with a good novel.

This isn’t a scene from my recent life. I like to think I’ve learned a thing or two over the years and one of them is that the clock is running from the moment you pick up the wine list in a restaurant. The only exception is when eating out with a fellow wino. Then it’s fine to spend some time intricately hashing over your choices. Otherwise, it’s skates-on time.

This is why I now look the wine list up online a couple of days or hours before eating out, when I’m free to browse at length, and to anticipate; because anticipation is, after all, a large part of the pleasure of eating and drinking.

First things first

Once in the restaurant, you’ll need to get a swift apero in play. This is the moment of maximum pressure. Stay calm. Get water in everyone’s glass. Consider the 2020s move of ordering a zero-alcohol beer to take the edge off everyone’s thirst and buy a bit of time.

If there are just two of you, very likely you’ll only want one full bottle of wine, so it needs to be the right one. I’m hearing from a lot of sommeliers that where well-heeled à deux diners once took the ‘glass of house fizz followed by a bottle of Burgundy’ route, many are reversing that and ordering a good bottle of grower Champagne or English sparkling then moving on (or not) to a glass of still wine.

The switch is about wow factor: Burgundy prices have risen so much that, as Darren Ball, head of wine at Caprice Holdings, puts it: ‘For the same price as a bottle of, say, Montagny 1er cru, you could have a richer style of Champagne that is luxurious but still fresh and will go well with food, too.’

On the subject of still-wine classics, Court of Master Sommeliers Europe CEO and DWWA Co-Chair Ronan Sayburn MS offers a reminder: ‘The big names, the Sancerres and the Chablis, are probably marked up quite high. If you know a bit about wine, you should be able to recognise grape varieties and if you like Sancerre, say, you should be able to get a Sauvignon Blanc from somewhere else. The real value now is found in places like South Africa – they do great wines for great prices.’

Stay safe or branch out

A good methodology is to start with what you know and have the appetite for, be it a grape, a country or both. Scan for that within your budget and find a backstop option. Maybe it’s a South African Pinot Noir. Maybe it’s a dry Australian Riesling. With one good pick in hand, you can delve further into the unknowns in the list and see if you can beat it.

Those with more wine knowledge could start by eyeballing the list to get a sense of where the sommelier is coming from. A good wine list always has a personality. Once you’ve ‘read’ that personality, it’s easier to navigate the list. Maybe the taste clashes with yours, so you go into damage-limitation mode and look for well-known names and brands. Or maybe you’ve intuited a match and can feel free to go on a spree through the obscure and the unfamiliar. Of course, you can also ask the sommelier for advice. That, after all, is why they’re there.

Wine list navigation: Tips for success

DO Be clear about budget. The best way to do this when speaking to a sommelier is to point at wines on the list that are within your price range.

DO Consider the house wine. ‘A good restaurant lives or dies by the quality of its house wine,’ says Ronan Sayburn MS. ‘It ought to be a point of pride to have a good one.’ Agreed; house wine is usually also very good value. And while it may or may not be made from a grape or combination of grapes that you know, it’s always picked to have broad appeal, and to work in the environment and with the food of that particular restaurant. You wouldn’t hesitate to choose house Champagne, so why not house wine?

DO Seek out the bottles that are there because the person writing the list thinks they’re good value. These will be the ones in between the obvious anchors of (for example) grande marque Champagnes, Malbec and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

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Isa spent more than 12 years as head sommelier at the Fat Duck Group, working alongside chef Jonny Lake. In 2019, he and Jonny teamed up to open Trivet (now two Michelin starred), and they have just launched Labombe by Trivet at the COMO Metropolitan London. In 2022, Isa was awarded the Michelin Sommelier Award for his work at Trivet.

My first memorable wine experience

Oddly, it was probably the best wine that I have drunk and will ever drink: a 1969 Chambertin from Burgundy’s legendary Armand Rousseau, back in 2002 or 2003. It was an out-of-this-world experience and one I would never want to try to repeat, just in case I was disappointed. I had bought the bottle for £50 with an ullage that was well below the neck. I drank it with friends at the Arches wine bar in London, along with some other great bottles.

My go-to everyday wines

I am a big fan of white wines from Campania, Italy, in particular Greco di Tufo. I love the freshness and purity; it’s amazing with light Mediterranean food.

My favourite supermarket buy

I have not been to a supermarket over the past few years for anything. I buy from independent shops. I also believe supermarkets should not be able to sell wine, but that is a long debate.

My most embarrassing moment at work

I once decanted a bottle of Tignanello into a decanter and as I approached the table to serve it, the handle of the decanter broke and the decanter fell on the floor. I was left there holding a handle and standing in a pool of red wine.

Pet hate

The obsession of wine professionals with a single grape variety at the expense of everything else. There are some wine professionals who only ever seem to drink and recommend Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc or Riesling. The wine world has so much to offer – it would be a sad day if it was one day reduced to just a handful of grape varieties or regions.

My death row food and wine pairing

I think that, being from Turkey, it may actually be something other than wine, such as a glass of raki with a plate of lakerda – a salt-cured dish made from bonito.

Best food and wine match at my restaurant

The pigeon with persimmon dish at Trivet is simply amazing with northern Rhône-style red wines. The spices in the dish and the black fruits and black pepper notes in the wine are a wonderful combination.

My fallback quick after-work meal (and wine match)

I used to really enjoy making sage and butter pasta and drinking it with Chianti. Now I try not to eat or drink after work! It’s not easy though.

Best buy on my list right now

On Monday evenings we do a selection of very keenly priced wines at Trivet that changes weekly and these offer incredible value for wine lovers.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Champs Perdrix (on the list at £120). It’s an amazing quality for the cost, where Burgundy prices are going silly. This remains amazingly approachable.

Wines I would avoid ordering on a restaurant list

I don’t like to order wines that are too generic and made in enormous quantities. I drink for pleasure and also look for some kind of cultural interest. Wines with a human story excite me more.

Wine region/style I’m most excited about at the moment

I am very excited about the wines from countries such as Greece, Turkey, Georgia and Armenia. They have so much to offer, and it’s only just beginning – although technically it began thousands of years ago, of course!

Wine style/grape that I don’t really enjoy drinking

I don’t tend to enjoy mass-produced wines, just as I don’t enjoy mass tourism. I think that they are both damaging and prefer to stay away.

Wine region/style that offers the greatest value for money right now

There is a lot to be said about value versus price, and it is very subjective. There are many regions offering incredibly good value – among these I think Spain has to be top of the list. You can find excellent value in pretty much any region in Spain.

My favourite wine region to visit – and favourite destination while I’m there

I love visiting Italy – any region, at any time of year is always a delightful experience. When I find myself in Piedmont, I love visiting La Ciau del Tornavento – a wonderful restaurant that has a fabulous wine list.

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She is now a certified sommelier, balancing this work with her modelling career. In addition, she’s a co-owner of Los Angeles restaurant Chulita and a founding member of the team at iBest Wines, an award-winning wine brand based in Stellenbosch, South Africa. Highlighting female and BIPOC (black, indigenous and people of colour) wine professionals is at the forefront of her work as a sommelier.

My first memorable wine experience

Sipping Château Margaux at Eleven Madison Park [in New York] after auditing an intensive sommelier program. I’d never tasted such glory and the wine was poured by female Master Sommelier Mia Van de Water, who would later become one of my instructors and mentors. I don’t remember the vintage, which is funny because it makes me remember what it was like tasting as a customer rather than someone in the business. After day one of the intensive sommelier training, and every day after, vintage became a focal point. I was also just so grateful to be sitting in that lounge sipping the craft of an industry that would later become my career.

My go-to everyday wines

It really depends on the mood: Sicilian wines for their versatility; Austrian wines for the summer; white Burgundy or Rioja for comfort and texture.

My favourite supermarket buy

Schramsberg or Graham Beck – traditional-method sparkling wines from California and South Africa respectively. Guaranteed deliciousness!

My most embarrassing moment at work

Spraying bubbly everywhere at a client tasting – the bottles were too warm and surprised everyone with a firehose spray of wine when I popped the cork.

Pet hate

Wine snobs. Wine is already challenging enough to understand, which can make people less inclined to drink it, let alone try new styles. We need open-minded, kind, non-judgmental leaders in the industry to make the space more inviting.

My desert island food and wine pairing

Sauternes and New York cheesecake – the graham cracker crust and rich body of the cheesecake is perfectly complemented by the nuttiness, tanginess and sweet spices of the Sauternes. Any vintage from Château d’Yquem would do, but I recently tried the 1987 and 2005 vintages, and they were spectacular, the ’87 showing incredible freshness at almost 40 years old.

My fallback quick, after-work meal

A hummus, cheese, crackers and veggies board, with a glass of Albariño – the ultimate girl dinner.

Best buy on my list right now

Our own 2022 vintage iBest Wines Red Blend, a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend. The aromatic concentration and polished palate of this vintage compared to the previous one feel luxurious.

Wine region I’m most excited about

It has to be Jura – lots of experimenting with indigenous varieties and styles. Vin Jaune, a wine that sees years in barrel before release, is a favourite style of mine.

Wine style I would avoid buying

I have to say that I really don’t enjoy drinking White Zinfandel.

Wine region that offers the greatest value for money right now

South Africa (the Stellenbosch region specifically) and Portugal – Bairrada, Douro, Alentejo – all incredible value. Quality winemaking at a fraction of the price of similarly made wines in better- known wine-producing regions.

My favourite wine region to visit

Anywhere in South Africa – Stellenbosch, Walker Bay, Darling, so much diversity! When I lived in Cape Town, it was similar to most wine regions in that you could discover myriad local producers at the city’s shops or restaurants while also being able to take a quick car ride out of town to stunning Constantia or Stellenbosch.

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In an era of diet-related health concerns, heightened awareness of cruel or unsustainable farming methods and a demand for more inclusivity and representation in every industry, there is a case to be made that plant-based tastes should be reflected more widely in the world of fine wine.

Getting outside the box

Fear of the unknown, techniques drilled in cooking school and confusion over what vegan food actually is, have deterred chefs from becoming ‘culinary explorers’, says Miyoko Schinner, a Marin County, California-based award-winning vegan chef, cookbook author and entrepreneur who founded global vegan cheese brand, Miyoko’s Creamery.

‘If people can just get out of that box where there’s got to be some kind of meat, you really are opening yourself up to so many new possibilities.’

Schinner regularly hosts winemaker dinners, tastings and cooking classes that highlight these possibilities. Such events have featured courses such as roasted vegetable timbale with tomato confit, paired with Merlot; zucchini carpaccio with raspberry ume sauce, paired with Sauvignon Blanc and honeynut squash and spinach ‘ricotta’ soufflé, paired with Chardonnay.

The approach has attracted attention from the highest echelons of the food world.

Schinner recalls a conversation with fellow Bay Area chef Dominique Crenn, of the three Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier Crenn, who has gradually reduced the use of animal products in her restaurants over the years.

‘She is finding that as she explores plants, she’s thinking about food in a way that she never did before and she’s getting excited because she’s discovering all these things she can do. So it’s a point of growth for her, and a point of growth for any chef, rather than simply trying to figure out how to cook chicken 10 different ways,’ Schinner says.

Challenging conventions

Drew Brady, wine director for Overthrow Hospitality, the plant-based restaurant group in New York City he co-founded with James Beard-nominated restaurateur Ravi Derossi, says there’s ‘a blind spot’ with conventional food and wine pairings. Many restaurants, chefs and wine-centric experiences, he says, ‘haven’t been challenged to think another way yet’.

This has to do with ‘what we think luxury is and how it equates to prestige. These kinds of foods that you typically see in pairings, foie gras and triple-aged-this-and-that, they’re just shorthand for indulgence,’ Brady says. ‘Especially for those that position themselves in the fine wine space, I think it’s muscle memory.’

Three of Overthrow’s eight brands have earned Michelin nods for their elevated plant-based cuisine, beautiful interiors, service and tightly-curated wine selections that skew light and low-intervention. The group’s mission, Brady says, is based on animal rights, concern for the environment, and redefining famously toxic restaurant culture, with interesting parallels to the mistreatment of farm animals, such as the force-feeding of geese for foie gras, for example.

‘I have worked for abusive management since the day I started working. I had no idea that it wasn’t supposed to be that way. The way you allow yourself to be spoken to, and watch others be spoken to and treated, is quite astonishing. I think plant-based cuisine is compassionate. We’re creating a space where guests and employees feel appreciated and celebrated. I think what we’re serving and how we’re serving it aligns with that quite well.’

Being bold with flavours and textures

Alex Price, head of wine at Michelin-starred, vegetable-focused Plates London, says somms don’t make the effort to pair vegan fare with wine because ‘perhaps sommeliers naturally default to the typical frameworks of salt, fat, acid and protein when it comes to pairing, and may view plant-based dishes as “lacking” the typical anchors needed for traditional pairings.

‘However, it’s exactly this challenge that makes pairing plant-based food so exciting, as it forces us to approach flavour, structure and balance very differently,’ Price says, offering an example – one of her favourite pairings at the restaurant.

‘The dish features hay-smoked maitake mushroom, barbecued over Japanese coals and served on a base of black bean mole. It’s topped with spicy kimchi and aioli and finished with puffed rice for texture. This is paired with an English orange wine. The wine’s boldness mirrors the intensity of the dish, standing up to the umami-rich mole and the earthy depth of the maitake. Bringing harmony and cohesion to a dish full of bold, layered flavours.’

A plant-based future

As the wine industry struggles to attract and retain consumers in an inflation-riddled economy and a culture redefining its relationship with alcohol, offering plant-based options can invite a new, more diverse or health-conscious cohort to discover and delight in wine, says Schinner.

‘People are interested in health, and plant-based options are more interesting than a piece of meat surrounded by celeriac purée,’ she adds. ‘You can do so many more wine pairings. It just makes it far more exciting.’

Brady says vegetable-based cooking offers opportunities for discovery that hook guests and keep them coming back.

‘The amount of times we have had those conversations tableside – “You’re telling me there’s no animal products in this dish at all?” – that’s what that is. You establish a personal connection and you’ve eliminated the stigma in one moment for plant-based or vegan dining right then and there.

‘We want to create restaurants,’ Brady says, ‘for people to come to us not because of what’s missing, but what’s possible.’

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Her career in wine has included retail in many US states, importing/distribution/brokering, winemaking in New Zealand, Oregon, Spain and Greece, collaborating on more than 100 episodes of podcast series Scores & Pours, teaching courses, consulting, training and working as a sommelier. Her current home is New York, where she serves as director of wine at The Carlyle, a Rosewood Hotel.

My first memorable wine experience

I was a young 17 years old and was elected to help my parents pick out a Christmas wine, which was strange as my family didn’t really drink wine (I’m convinced I’m the milkman’s daughter). I selected the first Aussie Shiraz from one of many stacks. At the dinner table, my mum allowed me to taste it and wow, was it awful! I still remember that flavour. No more than half a bottle was consumed so I snuck it up to my room post-dinner to taste later, as I had heard that wine needs to breathe. Two days later, I took a sip. It was even worse than the first time. From then on, fermentation intrigued me beyond belief. Five years later, I would enter the wine business.

My go-to everyday wines

Anything interesting. I often get asked what’s my favourite wine. My response is always: ‘The next wine I haven’t tried.’

My favourite supermarket buy

Honestly, I haven’t bought wine from a supermarket in ages. I like to support local wine shops, but if I waltzed into one right now, I’d look for something Austrian. Their wine laws are as strict as they come, so there’s a little less funny business and value can be shockingly good.

My most embarrassing moment at work

In a casual, award-winning restaurant in Minneapolis. I opened an Austrian sparkling rosé and the pressure was so high that the cork went flying across the entire dining room. A guest caught it. Everyone in the establishment erupted with laughter and praise. It was pretty epic.

Pet hate

When guests are closed to exploring something new. In our business, we get to try hundreds of wines a week. To this day, I can’t understand why anyone would want to drink the same wine on every visit.

Death row food and wine pairing

I could say Champagne but that seems too predictable, so I’ll go for Sherry, paired with foods that are practically designed for it: olives, Serrano ham, cheeses, gazpacho…

Best food & wine match at my restaurant

Our Brussels sprout salad with strawberries is incredible served with a light grower Champagne from, say, Moussé or Charlot.

Fallback, quick after-work meal (and wine match)

Sautéed vegetables, a quick egg situation, cheese and bread. Wine match: something new I can ponder while winding down.

Most proud of, on my list

The minuscule producers that we’ve discovered: Vinyes Tortuga (Empordà), Scar of the Sea (California), Domaine Nénu (Collioure), Ochota Barrels (South Australia) and many more! Surprise on a list is everything and many guests comment on how many discoveries are on our list. That tickles my heartstrings.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Vinyes Tortuga’s Doolittle. What is Barbera doing in northeastern Spain? People see the unexpectedly deep, unfiltered rosé colour while learning that a barrel was not topped up for more than a year, thus the wine is graced with all the flavours that accompany ageing under flor. Knocks out guests every time.

Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list

Defective natural wines or big-volume wines. I usually describe what I’m not looking for and let the sommelier or bartender or server choose something I haven’t tasted.

Wine region/style I’m most excited about at the moment

Any. All.

Wine style/grape I really don’t enjoy

There is no such region or grape, really. A new producer, grape, vintage, expression… I love exploring it – someone plus nature made this! However, there is neither time nor liver capacity for soullessness – regardless of how coveted or expensive or rare the wine may be.

Where to look for best value right now

Canary Islands. The Loire Valley. Australia. US$40 wine from these regions would cost you $80-plus elsewhere, for the equivalent quality.

Favourite wine region to visit I love visiting Spain and the Mediterranean islands. I feel at home there and find the most transparent, interesting new expressions of what terroir can be on each and every visit.

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Your contemporary wine professional would be rather difficult to select from a line-up… of, say, DJs, ceramicists, surfers, perhaps even local cocaine dealers.

While sommeliers of yore have often tended towards a particular aesthetic (vested, male, well-postured), our present aficionados obey no such laws.

Heavily tatted, dressed for leisure, and free-wheeling in their wine vocabularies, these folks may very well be able to blind taste any heavily-credentialed, elitist somm under the table. But technically speaking, they’re without the pay-to-play certifications that tend to give other wine stewards a certain holier-than-thou sensibility.

Naturally, ‘somm’ has become a convenient catch-all word for the folks pouring bottles and curating wine lists at bars and restaurants. And semantically speaking, sommelier is a job title, not a degree. That said, for years, it was oft-understood that certain credentials were a mandatory prerequisite to sommelier work… while now, as more disciples of the wine world earn their credibility via the, ahem, school of life, it seems as if the term – for better or for worse – has lost its credence.

And is that a bad thing?

The reality is, we’re seeing fewer and fewer restaurants boast a ‘sommelier’ position to begin with.

A talented, astute, well-trained wine professional? Absolutely. But sommelier? Perhaps a bit snooty of a term for the wry, T-shirt sporting autodidacts skilfully slinging wine at so many venues.

‘Of course, [wine is] an elitist and hierarchical field by design. Becoming a master at wine is an elite sport and you have to be extremely rigorous, dedicated and competitive,’ says Basile Al Mileik, who helms wine programmes to great success (sans diplomas) at beloved Manhattan establishments, St. Jardim and Fedora. ‘After all, it’s a competition, right? Social status, historical origin, privilege, race, gender… Plus, it’s ranked and it’s Euro-centric, male and white dominated, no?’

This is good news! Perhaps we’re through with attributing vaguely pronounceable, exclusionary French words to positions or practices that are inherently designed to democratise wine or make it more accessible.

Think about it: As a general layperson looking to order something delicious, would you rather clear your throat and say, ‘May I consult your sommelier?’ Or ‘I’d love some advice from the Wine Guy.’

‘I’m not sure the general public really cares about educational credentials anymore. They just use sommelier to refer to the person providing good wine service,’ adds Al Mileik. ‘Of course, I totally understand and respect that fine dining places prefer to hire people with formal training – who have a pin and can enumerate all sub-regions of Victoria or the Right Bank. That stuff is all very important, and I might be a hater, but my question is: did this person obtain the title because they were passionate or because they had access and privilege? And will all that specific knowledge actually help them connect with guests about what they want to drink?’

Personally speaking, I must admit… I love school. Humiliatingly so.

Classroom learning maintains a distinct draw for me – but pragmatically speaking, even as a wine writer by trade, WSET is not where one goes to find stories. Angles and pitches are generated from moving through the world in three dimensions. From talking to servers, attending portfolio tastings, visiting wine fairs, taking notes while tasting new things – and old things. From working on wine harvests overseas.

In fact, to that end, I’ve learned more from working in vines and cellars, often in a language that is not my own, about how to taste, how to care for fruit, how quality wine is actually crafted, than I have from any textbook (and I do, indeed, read textbooks!). The same is true for individuals on restaurant floors, who calibrate in real-time.

Never mind the already looming spectre of my undergrad student loans… wine education is a natural byproduct of commitment to the project of learning, no matter where you choose to do so… and at what price. And frankly, I’d take advice from just about anyone with palpable enough enthusiasm, no matter where I encountered them (the subway, for example).

Moreover, it’s also worth noting that there are plenty of folks out there who earn their credentials purely for the love of sport, sitting through wine courses with no intention to put their degrees to use in hospitality.

There’s a sincerity there: The impulse is purely educational. Not because one mode of learning outranks another, but because the condensed and tidy rendition of classroom learning is extremely valuable for those who do indeed have both the means and the curiosity.

‘Wine has so many barriers to entry, so if you don’t work in hospitality, your experience is likely going to be pretty limited to what your friends and family drink and what’s served by the glass at the bars and restaurants you go to,’ says writer and editor Christie Rotondo. ‘When I started taking my WSET courses during Covid, I didn’t really have a plan for what I would do with the credentials, but I felt like it was a useful skill, and I was having a good time learning about wine, practising blind tasting, and studying with my class, even though it was a lot of work.’

That said, even from a properly educated standpoint, Rotondo is still adamant that there’s ample talent and wisdom to be found in rooms where your ‘wine steward’s’ knowledge has been honed by other means.

‘I have never once asked a server or sommelier about their wine certifications and would never even think to,’ adds Rotondo. ‘I think they have plenty of that “school of life” experience working in hospitality and training with their establishment’s wine list.’

For Ivy Sutton, who helms Omaha, Nebraska wine bar iDLE Wine & Goods, the same is true on the venue side of things. ‘I’m more likely to hire someone who’s self-taught, ambitious and genuinely interested in wine than someone who’s interested in the bravado of being on a particular level or having the highest rank,’ she explains. ‘To be brutally honest. Certifications and diplomas mean nothing to me.’

As she sees it, learning from zines, wine journalists, shop clerks, podcasts, and other wine professionals – that’s the good stuff. Not only does it broaden your general conception of how to drink, how to taste, and what to pay attention to – but it also exposes you to mentors, allies in the wine world, and a functional community that is so essential to success in the industry. ‘I don’t ever feel less well-equipped [due to a lack of professional training],’ Sutton continues. ‘Unless I skipped my anxiety meds.’

That’s not to say that servers and buyers from both schools can’t thrive or fail in a hospitality setting. But rather, that sommelier is seemingly no longer some sacred reference to connoisseurship or quality. Expertise is expertise, and the titles are semantic hang-ups. ‘Like most people, I suffer from impostor syndrome and think, oh wow, should I actually have a sommelier title to justify my wine job?’ says Al Mileik. ‘But if a green server asks me a question, I’m happy to say, I don’t know, but let’s find out.’

The point is, knowledge is not static. It metamorphoses with experience and exposure. It requires humility and sincere curiosity. It can be found in classrooms, cellars, magazines and local bars.

And expertise in wine need not be determined merely by the precise templates set forth by the WSET overlords. Call your Wine Guy a somm, a steward, a server, a wine jockey. If you like what you’re drinking, they’ve done their job. Anything else is besides the point.

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Urban renewal has transformed Sydney’s food and wine scene, shifting the centre of gravity from the Central Business District (CBD) towards the suburbs.

Sure, there are your famous established eateries with heavenly wine-sipping views of the harbour such as Quay with its winning sparkling wine list compiled by head sommelier Steven Pietersma.

But in the posh harbourside Eastern Suburbs and post-industrial Inner West, chefs, hospitality groups and sommeliers have brought wine-driven bars, bistros and restaurants to please the sophisticated Bacchanalian predilections of locals.

Since sommelier Matthew Swieboda opened Sydney’s ‘original small wine bar’ Love, Tilly Devine in Darlinghurst in 2010, a flurry of neighbourhood wine dens and corner store bistros have arrived on the scene – from Tim Perlstone’s Wine Library in Woollahra to the Coogee Wine Room.

The revolution kicked off in city-nudging Surry Hills with bustling side street wine bars popping up in former industrial warehouses between the bricks and barrels.

Another phenomenon is the emergence of the hotel as a drinking and dining destination – including the revamped Sofitel Sydney Wentworth’s quartet of new venues with drinks overseen by ex-Rockpool ‘wine guy’ Christian Blair.

Best Sydney bars and restaurants for wine lovers: 10 to try

Aalia

25 Martin Place, Sydney

An Arabian and North African cultural journey meets Australian ocean ingredients via raw dishes of tuna with finger lime, Moreton Bay bug mezze and mains of blue mackerel with tahini fennel. Aalia – meaning ‘exalted’ – opened in 2022 and is set among the neoclassical facades of Martin Place. The 30-page beverage list won three goblets at the 2024 Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards, and is curated by Tasmanian-born head sommelier Eleonore Wulf, who showcases female winemakers and unique or regional Australian varieties. France is very well represented among the rare and classic drops.

Bar Copains

67 Albion St, Surry Hills

Set in a white terraced house with a communal table, Thonet chairs and petit bistro tables, chef/co-owners Morgan McGlone and Nathan Sasi say the raison d’être of their little bar a vin is to share ‘museum wines’ from their personal collections among friends. The ‘cave’ offers some 300 bottles, many by the glass, including natural wines, traditional drops by small producers with cosmopolitan labels and classic Australian winemakers – to imbibe with exquisite servings of raw diced tuna and chicken liver parfait with sauternes jelly and sourdough.

Bar Julius 

The EVE Hotel, 8 Baptist Street, Redfern

Part of the buzzing new Wunderlich Lane precinct, the EVE Hotel’s street-facing bistro has an all-day menu featuring market fish, tomato tarte tatin, zucchini rosti and roast beef bagels – and a 10-page drink list concocted by Kyle Poole, group sommelier of the wine-savvy Liquid & Larder group, who is a big advocate of sustainable winemaking. He favours Burgundies and Italian reds over homegrowns, though Aussie gins reign. Settle into a banquette and enjoy an Archie Rose White Martinez or Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz Spritz.

Bar Lucia

5 Kellett Street, Potts Point

Among the fleur-de-lis terraces and fairy-lit branches of Moreton Bay Fig trees, Bar Lucia brings a touch of classical Madrid to Potts Point – with a gorgeously elegant decor of ionic columns in the courtyard, cascading chandeliers and artisan mosaics. The venue was a Wine List of the Year Awards winner in 2024 in the 50-bottle category, and sommelier Kasia Sobiesiak highlights female producers from Orange and the Adelaide Hills to Piedmont and Rioja, downed with tapas or hearty servings of seafood paella and rosemary-infused lamb shank.

Dear Sainte Éloise

5/29 Orwell Street, Potts Point

Opening on to bird-tweeting Springfield Gardens, this little ‘place for wine and things to eat’ romantically recalls George Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London, where the writer implores the saint to send just enough money to buy bread and a bottle of wine to restore his strength. At this sibling to A Love, Tilly Devine, the 500+ varieties on offer should do just that. Stacked around the shelves of two dark and woody parlours are drops from lesser-known Italian and French viticulture regions, plus California and Georgia. The Riesling and Pinot Noir venerating owners find ‘Antipodean styles have developed by leaps and bounds,’ borrowing from their Italian counterparts while ‘expressing something uniquely Australian’.

Kiln

Ace Hotel, Level 18, 53 Wentworth Avenue, Sydney

Creativity, like the views, hit a high note at the Ace Hotel’s 18th-floor restaurant Kiln, with ex-Noma chef Beau Clugston at the helm. Fusing Scandinavian simplicity with native bush ingredients, try iconic dishes such as Sydney rock oysters with rhubarb and pink pepper and Arnhem land-inspired leeks cooked in paperbark, dabbed with caviar-like native finger lime. Wines and cocktails sport amusing tags – the Brave New Wine Riot Girl! – a West Australian white blend – is for those seeking a ‘Touch More There White’. Or try a Witching Hour, blending Dalmore 12YO with gentian and orgeat.

Monopole

20 Curtin Place, Sydney

Dark, moody, decked with velvet curtains and vintage wine fair posters, Monopole, meaning ‘one wine, one vineyard, one producer’, is run by award-winning duo, chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt, co-owners of The Bentley Restaurant Group and its namesake eatery. Monopole is 100% French – ‘classic with contemporary flair’ – including the wines, aperitifs and digestifs. Expect vol-au-vent filled with pasture-raised Sommerlad chicken and Balmain bug and sweetcorn. With 600 wines – 30 by the glass – it won Best Wine List NSW in Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards in 2024, noted for its ‘numerous mini-verticals’.

Saint Peter

The Grand National Hotel, 161 Underwood St, Paddington

When chef Josh Niland moved his famous fin-to-scale fish restaurant to a new Paddington address last year, he dubbed the reimagined 1890s Grand National Hotel ‘a multi-dimensional hospitality hub’. Amid the sleek stone, brass, timber and upholstered banquettes, head sommelier Houston Barakat’s wine list gives pride of place to a selection of ‘hero producers of New South Wales’, ‘established icons’ and ‘new-wave producers’, rotating according to ‘seasonality, availability and deliciousness’. Pair them with fish charcuterie, line-caught John Dory and dry-aged yellowfin tuna from the 11 Course Chef’s Table Menu.

Tilda

Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, 61-101 Phillip St, Sydney

With a big hook on seasonal ocean-sourced flavours and sustainability, this chic ‘Australian interpretation of a classic grill restaurant’ has a 50 page drinks list to accompany the charcoal-cooked dishes from the open kitchen. Head sommelier, Guido Pisani ensures guests get ‘a new-found zest’, as Banjo Paterson’s poem on the opening page of the drinks list promises. The restaurant’s name is a nod to his famous unofficial national anthem, Waltzing Matilda. The list champions Australian producers from Clare Valley Rieslings to Tassie Coal River Pinot Noirs and claims: ‘There’s never been a better time in history to be drinking Australian Wine’ in terms of a sense of place.

Vermuteria

60 Kings Cross Road, Potts Point

Morphing out of an institution and still with a Spanish flavour, Vermuteria occupies the bohemian gem where Cafe Hernandez bar and roaster stood for 50 years until 2022. With much of the decor still in place, including a massive reproduction of Diego Velázquez’s Count-Duke of Olivares, the charming aperitif bar is crammed with memorabilia and colourful window displays of vintage vermouth and sherry bottles behind its red awning. From the daily vermouth hour at 5pm, the bar serves cocktails and a small but fine selection of Spanish wines with finger food such as San Sebastian-style pintxos or a wad of Basque cheesecake.

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There he worked for Vinhos Justino Henriques for seven years, before moving into the hospitality industry, first as a wine waiter in five-star hotels and then as a sommelier. In 2013, Rustem moved to the UK and has worked at top establishments including Gidleigh Park in Devon. He is currently head sommelier at five-star hotel Cliveden House.

Rustem Mingaleev profile image credit: AJG

My first memorable wine experience

It has to be working at the Vinhos Justino Henriques winery, on the island of Madeira. I had the great fortune to be part of the team during a period of significant transformation. We established the winery from scratch, setting up equipment such as presses, barrels, stainless steel tanks with temperature control systems and a bottling line. I learned a lot during this time. My initial sources of information were Oz Clarke’s Wine Atlas, and Decanter and Wine Spectator magazines, which we had in our office. I remember spending my breaks reading them every day.

My go-to everyday wines

I’m a big fan of Pierre Gimonnet Champagne. Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs is my go-to everyday wine.

My favourite supermarket buy

Dry Hungarian Furmint.

My most embarrassing moment at work

The most embarrassing occasions occur when I serve a rare, expensive wine, only to find it is faulty. I once had to pour a £3,000 bottle of Montrachet Grand Cru from a renowned producer down the sink because it was oxidised.

Pet hate

When my peers lose their enthusiasm and passion for the hospitality industry. It’s an environment that is fast-paced and ever-changing, for sure, but I find this keeps things exciting.

My desert island food and wine pairing

Without doubt, fresh oysters with zero-dosage Champagne.

Best food and wine match at my restaurant

At Cliveden House we’re currently offering a dream pairing: roast breast of duck, endive salad with cranberries and mandarin matched with Domaine Rossignol-Trapet’s Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2020.

My fallback quick after-work meal and wine match

A selection of cheeses (goat, Camembert and Brie) with a glass of Sancerre.

Most proud of on my list

Apart from the Bordeaux first growths, we have verticals of Coulée de Serrant from Nicolas Joly, Sassicaia, Magma from Frank Cornelissen, and Barca Velha.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Cervaro della Sala from Antinori. Many guests haven’t tasted a premium Italian white wine before. This was one of the first Italian whites to undergo malolactic fermentation and ageing in barriques – it’s a complex wine, with great ageing potential.

Wines I’d avoid ordering from a restaurant wine list if I was dining out

High-alcohol reds or overly aromatic whites.

Don’t underestimate the importance of…

Serving temperature. If a wine is served at the wrong temperature, it can significantly affect one’s enjoyment of it, whatever the grape variety or style.

Wine style I’m most excited about

Dry Furmint from Tokaji in Hungary. I had an opportunity to taste a range of Furmints from different plots and vintages at Szepsy. It was amazing.

Wine region that offers the greatest value for money right now

Portuguese wines have always offered a good price-value ratio and are really underappreciated.

My favourite wine region to visit

Tuscany. The combination of nature, art history, food and wine makes it very special. Florence is one of my favourite destinations and I always try to get to restaurant Il Palagio, in the Four Seasons hotel.

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News quickly went viral after Hawksmoor said in May 2019 that it had mistakenly served a bottle of legendary Bordeaux wine Le Pin 2001, listed at £4,500 on the menu, to guests.

Writing on Twitter, now X, Hawksmoor Manchester said it hoped the customer enjoyed their evening. It added to the staff member involved, ‘One-off mistakes happen and we love you anyway.’ 

Six years later, Hawksmoor cofounder Will Beckett has told the The Go To Food Podcast that he decided to write the social media post after staff alerted him to the incident by text message overnight.

Beckett said the staff member involved had come down to Hawksmoor Manchester from the Edinburgh branch to gain experience for a couple of weeks. 

Two guys ordered a ‘spendy’ bottle of Bordeaux listed at more than £200, Beckett explained, but the staff member accidentally picked up the £4,500 Le Pin 2001 in the cellar. 

Back at the table, the staff member opened the wine, checked it with the customers, poured the contents and then ‘goes about her business’, Beckett recalled. 

’[After] about an hour, [the diners ask] can we have another bottle of that?’, he said. But, on going back to the cellar, the staff member thought it was odd that she couldn’t see another bottle of the wine. 

‘I think at that moment, she’s like, “oh my God…I’ve given them a bottle of Le Pin 2001,’ Beckett said, adding that she managed to ‘style it out’ by explaining that the wine was now out of stock.

It wasn’t clear what the guests ordered next, but it would have been a hard act to follow. This is a top vintage from one of the most renowned names in Pomerol on Bordeaux’s Right Bank.

Wine critic Jane Anson awarded a perfect 100-point score to Le Pin 2001 during her time as Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent.

Its average UK retail price was around £3,400 per bottle in April 2025, according to Wine-Searcher. 

Beckett’s decision to publicise the incident was quickly seized upon by news outlets.

It also led to Hawksmoor Manchester getting much busier for a couple of weeks afterwards, more than recouping the money lost on the wine, he explained.

In September 2019, Hawksmoor said it had promoted the staff member involved to a general manager position. 

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When modern wine connoisseurs describe Champagne, the term versatile is often used, usually in reference to its adaptability to food pairings, from caviar and oysters to more modern delights like haute fried chicken.

Champagne has come a long way from being the lone bottle collecting dust at the back of a cellar awaiting a special occasion, to one that’s worthy of opening on a Monday night – just because.

The pomp and circumstance that once surrounded popping a cork no longer apply, making Champagne completely and utterly versatile.

In the US, bars and restaurants have embraced Champagne’s evolution with multi-page wine lists, Champagne flights for that just because moment, and avant-garde culinary pairings.

When it comes to seeking out a stateside reservation for superlative Champagne offerings, the following 16 venues will certainly quench your thirst.

Coqodaq – New York City, New York

Champagne and fried chicken are one of modern society’s trendiest indulgences, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this Manhattan hotspot.

‘It’s a perfect balance of sophistication and comfort,’ says Dominique Demarville, cellar master at Lallier Champagne and a fan of Coqodaq’s signature pairing.

Coqodaq might be a New York newcomer, having opened in 2024, but it swiftly shot to the top of the list of must-visit venues in the city (and country) for its Champagne list of more than 400 bottles, curated by executive beverage director Victoria James. The list is widely quoted as the largest Champagne list in North America.

Eleven Madison Park – New York City, New York

‘This Champagne list shows a ton of range,’ says Hugo Bensimon, sommelier at Grill 23 in Boston.

This restaurant’s 220-page wine list counts Pierre Péters Les Chétillons 1990 and Krug Clos du Mesnil 1989 in magnum among its number.

If you like what you sip here, the highly acclaimed restaurant runs a wine club; whether you want to sign up for monthly boxes or one-off deliveries, expect thoughtful and grand selections from its 20,000-bottle cellar.

Peak – New York City, New York

Alongside one of the best views in NYC, this rooftop lounge flaunts a strong by-the-glass program, which is why you’ll likely find Jonathan Boulangeat, Head of Rare Champagne for US distributor Folio Fine Wine Partners, here whenever he’s in town.

By-the-glass options include: Rare Champagne Brut 2008, Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition, and Pol Roger Brut 2016.

Corkbuzz – New York City, New York

It’s a rare occasion to find Champagne in restaurants at retail price points, but Corkbuzz defies the odds (which are even greater in NYC).

With a thoughtful mix of growers and Grandes Marques, the selections are intentional, says Nicole Muscari, a New York-based wine consultant and educator.

‘You can usually find wines that are difficult to source or available only through tight allocations,’ she adds, highlighting several cuvées from top grower Georges Laval on the list.

The Bar at Daniel – New York City, New York

If you’re looking for a bar that feels both French and classically New York at the same time, Didier Mariotti, cellar master at Veuve Clicquot, suggests The Bar at Daniel.

‘It makes me feel right at home,’ says Mariotti, praising the selection of prestige cuvées, including one of his favorite vintages of Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame, 2015, as well as the cheese cart and rotation of seasonal art that makes it feel like a new dining experience each time he visits.

The Bar at Baccarat Hotel – New York City, New York

‘The Baccarat Hotel is the epitome of luxury,’ says Demarville of this iconic NYC hotel.

Its onsite bar, where a variety of prestige cuvées and more avant-garde selections await, is no exception.

‘The ambiance is elegant, making it the ideal setting to enjoy Champagne in all its forms,’ he says.

Grill 23 & Bar – Boston, Massachusetts

This independent steakhouse has been a favorite among wine enthusiasts since 1983.

The likes of Taittinger and Vilmart & Cie hold a place on its by-the-glass list, while Champagnes by the bottle take up seven pages of its wine list. These include a selection of grandes marques, negociants and small growers among them.

Sexy Fish – Miami, Florida

This Asian restaurant dedicates an entire page to various vintages, cuvées and formats of Dom Pérignon including a methuselah (equivalent to eight standard bottles) of 2006 for $25,000.

‘It’s truly a playground for the Champagne-obsessed connoisseur,’ says Miami-based wine columnist and consultant, ​​Jacqueline Coleman.

Another selling point is that Sexy Fish is one of Miami’s best ‘clubstaurants’. ‘Where dinner is always followed by a party, if they aren’t happening at the same time already,’ says Coleman.

Amara – Miami, Florida

‘Amara is a relaxed venue on Biscayne Bay where wine nerds can really geek out,’ says Coleman.

‘In a flashy city like Miami, sometimes it’s hard to find places that elevate smaller or lesser-known producers,’ she says, but Amara succeeds with a thoughtful list highlighting smaller producers.

These include: Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Frédéric Savart and Larmandier-Bernier.

Bern’s Steak House – Tampa, Florida

Bern’s Steak House has been a destination restaurant for oenophiles since 1960 when founder Bern Laxer released the first edition of its wine list with the idea ‘to offer guests the opportunity to drink any kind of wine, from anywhere in the world at a reasonable price.’

Today, the wine list is on its 84th edition and boasts over 100 bottles of the best Champagnes.

Sushi Kashiba – Seattle, Washington

Sushi Kashiba is the best place to get grower Champagne in Seattle, according to fatcork Champagne club founder Bryan Maletis.

‘All the bottles complement the selection of sushi,’ says Maletis, ‘whether it’s a glass of zero-dosage blanc de blancs to go with the clean flavors of various white fish; a bottle of vintage, neutral oak-aged blanc de noirs to go with tuna and salmon; or a half-bottle of a Pinot Meunier-dominant Champagne to go with the bolder flavours of sea urchin and geoduck.’

The current by-the-glass pick is Etienne Calsac’s Les Rocheforts, and the list always features a rotating half-bottle of Champagne too.

Beverly Hills Hotel – Los Angeles, California

If the taste of old Hollywood glamour doesn’t entice you back time and time again, Mathieu Roland-Billecart, CEO and seventh generation of Champagne Billecart-Salmon, assures that the rare and vintage Champagne options at this ‘timeless classic’ will.

Nobu Malibu – Malibu, California

There’s no denying that Nobu Malibu’s vistas of the Pacific Ocean are a main draw for diners, however Bollinger’s cellar master, Denis Bunner, says that the cuisine and wine service are what makes it such a memorable destination for him.

‘I remember my first sip of Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année 2015 with their toro tartare and caviar, and it was a revelation,’ he says.

‘It is a great place to explore the unique flavors and taste sensations that different styles of Champagne can bring out in the food.’

The Little Nell – Aspen, Colorado

Aspen’s The Little Nell is consistently recognised for its five-star food and beverage program, and this includes a vast selection of Champagne.

‘The list allows you to explore a wide variety of styles, producers and vintages,’ says Hugo Bensimon, sommelier at Grill 23 in Boston.

‘It’s a lovely way to either see the whole range from a specific producer – or different vintage expressions.’

Bensimon highlights Salon 2008 in magnum and Billecart-Salmon’s Grand Cuvée 1996 as particular cellar standouts.

Effervescence – New Orleans, Louisiana

Large-format bottles, Champagne flights and 10 acclaimed labels by the glass shoot this restaurant to the top of unique concepts in New Orleans.

Whether you’re visiting for its happy hour, which includes rotating bubbly specials, or settling in for sparkling Sundays, you may want to leave extra time to enjoy all that Effervescence offers.

Pops for Champagne – Chicago, Illinois

Just off Chicago’s Magnificent Mile, Pops for Champagne has delighted since 1982 with a happy hour that always features a Champagne by the glass and an extensive bottle list that includes every style, from vintage to demi-sec and doux.

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After honing his skill in several revered institutions, including Thomas Keller’s Per Se, in 2011, Carlton joined The Little Nell in Aspen, Colorado, working his way up to wine director and overseeing the hotel’s 20,000-bottle wine cellar. He became president and CEO of Heitz Cellar in 2018. Today, he’s the CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, a portfolio that includes Heitz and Haynes Vineyard in Napa and Château Lascombes in Bordeaux.

Carlton McCoy profile image credit: Mike Battey/LWE

My first memorable wine experience

It would have been at the Culinary Institute of America. My professor was [author] Steven Kolpan. He taught us about wine through anecdotes and historical events, not technical descriptions. This would forever frame my perception of wine.

My go-to everyday wines

It depends on my mood. Some nights, it’s Champagne… it’s often Champagne. Other nights, I bring home current releases from our wineries to experience with food.

Favourite supermarket buy

If I grab something quickly, it’s often a lighter white wine such as Chablis or Sancerre.

My most embarrassing moment at work

Where do I start? I once accidentally decanted a red Burgundy into a decanter that still held a few ounces of Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, creating the world’s most expensive rosé.

Pet peeve

It always bugged me when guests pulled up apps with scores. As a somm, scores are irrelevant. Somms taste and vet wines from all over the world. The point of a sommelier is to have a dialogue to find the best bottle for you, at a price you’re comfortable with.

My death row food & wine pairing

It would have to be a whole roasted Bresse chicken stuffed with truffles and accompanied by pommes frites cooked in duck fat, with great mustard. To drink with it: 1929 DRC Les Gaudichots [Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru], by far the most ethereal wine I’ve ever had. And it would take them a long time to find the bottle, which would extend my life!

Best food and wine match

I had an experience at Maison Pic [in Valence, France] many years ago. I have not been a fan of Rhône white wines, but this is their region and they had a great selection. I voiced my concern to the sommelier, and he smirked as if to say, ‘I’ve got this.’ He went on to pour me a Chave Hermitage Blanc with whipped brie scented with fresh vanilla. Insanity! Lesson learned.

My fallback easy after-work pairing

Our go-to quick meal is roasted chicken with a ton of butter and herbs, and a great salad. I can put the chicken in the oven, have a shower and a glass of wine and the chicken is ready. To drink with it, it’s often Champagne, as we always have a bottle in the fridge. If I am in the mood for red wine, we select a young, fresh red that doesn’t need time to show itself – a cru Beaujolais, Frappato or young red Burgundy.

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

When I managed the wine list at The Little Nell, I was blessed to be able to buy whatever I wanted. I was most proud of my domestic Cabernet list. I had amassed an insane collection of old wines that really shone a light on the ageworthy nature of the more balanced style.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Guests were always amazed by the wines of the northern Rhône. In the US, many guests know Syrah through their experience with Aussie Shiraz, which is the polar opposite of northern Rhône reds. Everyone loves good Syrah when they get it in their glass.

Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list

I don’t buy culty European wines when dining out. At this point, they are marked up the most, as allocations are small and, understandably, demand is high.

Wine I’m most excited about now

I have been drinking a lot more Bordeaux lately. I lean more towards the Right Bank these days: with a few years of age, the wines are ready to drink.

Wine style I really don’t enjoy drinking

I hate to say this, but I don’t enjoy hedonistic red wines: whether they come from Australia, the US or Spain, I just don’t find pleasure in them, and they don’t pair with food. Perhaps with a cigar?

Best value for money right now

I feel strongly that Bordeaux is the winner here. The quality of wine that you can get for $10 and under is unparalleled. And these are wines that can also be cellared. That’s rare to find in today’s wine world.

My favourite wine region to visit

Beyond Napa, where I currently work, I would have to say Austria. I adore great Grüner Veltliner, and the regions themselves are gorgeous.

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Coravin’s pioneering technology allows sommeliers and bartenders to serve their guests fine wines by the glass.

The remaining wine stays in the bottle, completely unaffected, and it can be enjoyed in perfect condition at a later date.

Coravin founder Greg Lambrecht created the world tour last year in a bid to bring his invention to more establishments.

Fifteen venues spread across four countries took part in the inaugural Coravin World Wine Tour, but it has really taken off this year.

There are now 58 establishments taking part in the 2025 event, covering eight countries. The list includes Michelin-starred restaurants, fine dining venues and several popular wine bars.

‘I am absolutely delighted that venues around the world are sharing in my mission to open up the world of wine,’ said Lambrecht.

London restaurants Brunswick House, Pétrus, Bacchanalia, and The Dove are all taking part. Gravetye Manor, a Michelin-starred restaurant in West Sussex, has also signed up.

Two Bristol restaurants, BANK and Lapin, are part of the tour, along with Tom Simmons in Cardiff and two Manchester venues: Climat and Worsley Stores Tasting Room.

The Coravin World Wine Tour allows guests at those venues to explore new fine wines without committing to a full bottle.

Katie Warren, senior director of global marketing, said: ‘The long-term consumer trend of “drinking less, drinking better” means that the by-the-glass range has been becoming an increasingly important element of wine lists across the globe.’

To that end, Australia will be represented by five bars and restaurants: Love Tilly Devine (Sydney), Jennie Wine Bar (Adelaide), Shadow Wine Bar (Perth), Atelier Wine Bar (Queensland), and Clover (Melbourne).

The United States has more participating venues than any other country. Four are in New York: Acru, Café Boulud, Le Pavillon, and Schmoné.

Chicago will be represented by Asador Bastian, Pops for Champagne, and Indienne. The remaining participants are in California: Flour + Water, Prelude, and Wife & The Somm in San Francisco, and Pasta|Bar and Redbird in Los Angeles.

The tour also features six restaurants in Paris (Cercle des Aromes, Le Petit Sommelier, Les 110 de Taillevent, Drouant, Hebe, and Didon).

Ten Italian restaurants are taking part, covering Rome, Milan, Florence, Capri, Taormina and various other cities. Five venues in the Netherlands have signed up, spanning Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Eindhoven and Voorburg.

There are three restaurants in Denmark: Nymindegab Kro, Restaurant TRIO, and Pearl by Paul Proffitt. Germany is also well-represented, as six bars and restaurants spread across Hamburg, Berlin, Deidesheim, and Wiesbaden are involved in the tour.

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Do all wine bottles have a punt?

Not really – you may have noticed that many of the slim and tall ‘flute’ bottles are flat-bottomed.

The traditional German ‘Hock’ Riesling bottle lacks a punt, says fine wine importer Justin Knock MW.

‘The reasons are largely historical and hark back to different bottle-manufacturing technology in Germany, the homeland of Riesling, though the bottle shape and lack of a punt have persisted across the world today for these wines.’

What is the wine bottle punt for?

In the age of handmade (mouth-blown) wine bottles, the indented bottom was believed to be originally crafted to help stabilise the bottle as it stood and to strengthen its structure, especially for sparkling wines, which must withstand high internal pressure.

‘Some saw them as advantageous for reds, enabling better sediment separation for decanting,’ adds Knock. ‘Puntless bottles need less glass and are therefore cheaper to manufacture and transport.’

In the case of flute bottles, ‘it may simply be that the creators of the Hock bottle in Germany had more sophisticated glass-manufacturing technology, with its global adoption most likely driven in an era when Hock-style wines were more highly prized.’

But with today’s manufacturing technology, punts are now more a matter of design and branding.

Quality and the wine bottle punt

The heavier weight of bottles with a punted base – much like the use of natural cork – may give a psychological impression of luxury and quality, especially for consumers who are just beginning to explore wine.

While opinions differ on the usefulness of the wine bottle punt versus its aesthetic tradition, most critics agree that a wine’s quality cannot be judged by the size of the punt.

If any correlation exists, it’s that crafting the punt requires more glass, leading to higher production costs. On this basis, it could be argued that premium wines are more likely to adopt such a design.

However, as the Riesling example above shows, this is far from a universal rule – and would be a blunt instrument for anyone attempting to measure quality.

Today, the overwhelming trend of sustainability and reducing carbon emissions in the wine industry is also leading to less use of punted bottles, as their added weight contributes to a larger carbon footprint. For producers, choosing lighter bottles nowadays has increasingly become a signal of their commitment to environmental responsibility.

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The Michelin constellation shines ever more brightly in Argentina following the release of the country’s second report. The gastronomy guide, which included 25 new entries across categories – three new flagship stars, three Bib Gourmands, three green stars and 16 recommended – confirmed that Buenos Aires and Mendoza, the two regions covered by the guide, take sustainability and eco-responsibility seriously. The up-and-coming generation of chefs and sommeliers also proved their mettle.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guide, noted the inspectors had been enchanted by the local gastronomy scene. ‘They continue to discover that Argentina emphasises each establishment’s personality, signalling great professionalism, growing concern for eco-responsibility and renewing the value of Argentina’s best products,’ he said.

Excellence consolidated

The Michelin Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2025 was unveiled at an event held at Susana Balbo Wines, in Perdriel, Mendoza. A total of 80 venues – 56 in Buenos Aires and 24 in Mendoza – made the cut, boosted by the exciting line up of new entries.

All of the six restaurants awarded one Michelin star in 2024 breathed a sigh of relief s their names were announced again.

They were joined by three new one-starred establishments.

Known for its oyster bar and seafood-driven menu, Crizia, the Buenos Aires restaurant led by husband-and-wife team Gabriel Oggero and Geraldine Gastaldo, followed up 2024’s green star with a red one – a fortunate recognition as the venue celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

Oggero’s former head chef Juan Ventureyra attained the same honours in Mendoza at Riccitelli Bistró, at Matias Riccitelli Wines, in Las Compuertas.

Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, led by dynamic young duo Josefina Diana and Juan Manuel Feijoo, also upped its game with its own set of green and red stars. Alongside Casa Vigil, which also falls under the Catena umbrella, Angélica Cocina Maestra has taken the renowned winery’s haul to four stars, the most of any group.

The full list list of one-starred restaurants in Argentina is now as follows:

• Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, Mendoza
• Azafrán, Mendoza
• Brindillas, Mendoza
• Casa Vigil at Bodega El Enemigo, Mendoza
• Crizia, Buenos Aires
• Parrilla Don Julio, Buenos Aires
• Riccitelli Bistró, Mendoza
• Trescha, Buenos Aires
• Zonda Cocina de Paisaje at Bodega Lagarde, Mendoza

Lonely at the top

Meanwhile, Aramburu, located in Buenos Aire’s Recoleta neighbourhood, renewed its lonely two-star status. Chef Gonzalo Aramburu’s 18-course tasting experience impressed inspectors again with a combination of technical ability, dramatic presentation and outstanding ingredients.

Young age, mature talent

In the individual categories, young talent cleaned up and confirmed a bright future for the Argentine wine & dine scene. Nicolás Tykocki of Ácido was, at the tender age of 27, named Best Young Chef for his daring and skilful approach, merging international influences, including Korean, Lebanese, Turkish, Chinese and Spanish.

The sommelier duo Elena Cabrera and Leonel Castro Ortiz jointly received the Michelin Sommelier award for their enthusiastic work at one-star Trescha, underscoring Chef Tomás Treschanski’s ‘test kitchen’ philosophy..

Capital value

The coveted ‘great value’ Bib Gourmand nods continue to elude Mendoza establishments and were solely awarded in Buenos Aires. With the addition of Ácido, Ajo Negro and MN Santa Inés, the capital’s total Big Gourmand roster rose to 10.

MN Santa Inés, led by chef Jazmín Marturet, was a welcome surprise. Operating out of a former industrial bakery, in Buenos Aires’ offbeat Paternal neighbourhood, that Maruret renovated with her father, MN Santa Inés offering was singled out by inspectors ‘for its international and eclectic flavours’.

16 other venues, including a host of 2024 openings, were added to the guide’s ‘selected restaurants’ list. These include Ultramarinos, in a second Michlin nod for chef Maxi Rossi of Picarón fame; Michel Rolland Grill & Wine, a concept built around the cellar and tasted of the renowned oenology consultant; La Vid at Bodega Norton; and Martino Wines, at the eponymous winery in Mendoza. Osadía de Crear at Susana Balbo Wines added a green star to its guide entry.

The growth and diversity of this year’s edition attests to the vibrancy and evolution of the Argentine hospitality industry, consolidating its status – alongside fierce competition from some of its neighbours – as a culinary powerhouse.

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Rats have been lumbered with a terrible reputation ever since they spread the Black Death back in the 14th century.

They’ve been consigned to the shadows for hundreds of years, lurking in sewers and scraping by on whatever they can scavenge from the streets.

However, they could be in line for an exciting career change after a group of rats aced an in-depth wine sniffing test.

Researchers at four universities (London, Lincoln, Trento and Vienna) joined forces to see if rats could distinguish between the aromatic profiles of two wine varieties.

They placed nine rats in test chambers and encouraged them to sniff wines: four Sauvignon Blancs, from France and Chile, and four Rieslings, sourced from Germany, France and Austria.

The researchers gave the rats a treat when one wine was present, so they learned to associate a particular aromatic profile with a reward.

After sniffing a wine, the rat had to use its nose to poke a particular lever. If the rat guessed correctly, it would receive food, while an incorrect response would result in a timeout penalty.

Training continued until the rats were getting 80% of their responses correct for three consecutive sessions.

They were then given an exam. The rats returned to the chamber, where they began sniffing wines, some of which they had been trained on, and others that were new.

The results were emphatic: they nose-poked the correct lever 94% of the time on wines they had been trained on, and 65% of the time on new wines made from the same grape varieties.

Researchers wrote that the results ‘indicate that a nonhuman mammal can discriminate between complex odour categories. This finding is consistent with the idea that many nonhuman mammals have olfactory abilities that match or exceed those of humans’.

It suggests that rats could come out of the sewers and move into the restaurant business, serving as a new breed of elite sommeliers.

However, while most of the participants dazzled with their olfactory prowess, a rat called Peanuts let the side down. He completed the training phase, but he struggled when sniffing new wines during the testing, so he’s not in line for a top job just yet.

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Our guide to Manhattan restaurant wine lists

While the number of Manhattan restaurant wine lists worth checking out goes far beyond the confines of one article, we’ve rounded up 10 of our favourite spots for eating and drinking right now.

The saying goes that wine is best enjoyed with food, and in the realm of exceptional lists, New York is home to some of the world’s greatest.

From long-standing classics to new-to-the-scene seafood counters, Korean fried chicken joints, and more, the city is brimming with versatile wine lineups that promise to leave a lasting impression – it’s simply a matter of knowing where to look.

For those eager to deepen their appreciation of fine wine, the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York returns on Saturday 6 June and is not to be missed.

Manhattan restaurant wine lists: 10 of the best

Borgo

124 E 27th St, New York, NY 10016

New York boasts no shortage of cozy Italian restaurants, though few offer a wine list as impressive as Borgo’s. Opened in late 2024, the space represents the first Manhattan-based venture for Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow (Diner, Marlow & Sons, Roman's), and has quickly captured neighbourhood hearts with its wood-fired focaccia, homemade pastas, and impressively curated wine list.

In addition to eclectic sparkling and rosé offerings—think picks from I Vigneri, Radikon, and Emidio Pepe—the rest of the list leans French and Italian heavy, featuring extensive selections from Piedmont, Tuscany, Burgundy, and Sicily.

Whether hearth-cooked pastas or wood-fired meats and veggies are what you’re craving, Borgo’s got the perfect bottle—and unmatched ambiance—to go with.

Café Carmellini

250 5th Ave, New York, NY 10001

Opened in late 2023, Café Carmellini is situated inside the sophisticated Fifth Avenue Hotel, and is spearheaded by namesake chef Andrew Carmellini.

The wine list, which is curated and overseen by Master Sommelier Josh Nadel, features 1,800 selections from both highly regarded and lesser-known producers alike, with a heavy emphasis on France, Italy and the United States.

Stop in for the restaurant’s daily lunch deal, which offers three courses for $85, and peruse the list for something equally exciting.

Chambers

94 Chambers St #1, New York, NY 10007

Located in the former space of past downtown wine destination Racines, Chambers offers a breath of fresh air – and an impeccably curated wine list – to New York’s Financial District.

Spearheaded by Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, Chambers’ sustainability-forward wine list highlights a myriad of natural, organic and biodynamic producers, featuring up-and-coming names to long-standing legends alike.

Best of all, over a third of the restaurant’s space is saved for walk-ins, and is offered on a first-come, first-serve basis. Come for the 88-page list, stay for the small bites, and grab one of the many (and we mean many) selections of Chartreuse available before heading out.

COQODAQ

12 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010

Champagne lovers, this one’s for you. Coqodaq’s list is dazzled with over 400 Champagne selections alone, making it the largest Champagne restaurant lineup in the country.

Helmed by Simon Kim and beverage director and partner Victoria James, the pair behind nearby COTE Korean Steakhouse, Coqodaq’s knockout list also features an equally exciting selection of still white, red and rosé wines, the majority of which hail from small, artisanal producers around the globe.

Keep this entry at the top of your Bucket List (don’t worry, you’ll get the pun after you check this unmissable restaurant out for yourself).

Gramercy Tavern

2 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003

Established in 1994 by restaurateur Danny Meyer, Gramercy Tavern has been a New York wine institution for over 30 years, and somehow, the programme continues to get better and better.

The Bible-like beverage list spans an impressive 96 pages, and features a variety of global regions, styles and varieties. Fans of Champagne, Burgundy and German Riesling will take delight in the list’s extensive offerings, and those on a budget will find a myriad of fun options on the programme’s ‘Bottles for a Benjamin’ page, each of which clock in at exactly $100 even.

Jupiter

20 W 50th St (Rink Level) New York, NY 10020

Founded by the star trio behind beloved downtown restaurant King, Jupiter offers a welcome reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Rockefeller Center, featuring handmade pastas, well-executed vegetables, and a robust wine list focused on French, Italian and Californian offerings.

Expect classic selections from the likes of Roulot, Roagna, and Quintarelli, as well as a number of picks from new-to-the-scene producers from lesser-known Italian regions (Lazio, Umbria and more).

Le Chêne

76 Carmine St, New York, NY 10014

Le Chêne is breathing new life into New York’s French dining scene, with a Bible-like wine list to boot. The first solo project for husband-wife duo Alexia Duchêne and Ronan Duchêne Le May, the restaurant focuses on classic French dishes and seasonal ingredients, with menu staples including crab thermidor, foie gras terrine, and the renowned Pithiviers Terre & Mer, prepared with potato gratin, pork farce, smoked eel, and beetroot condiment.

The extensive wine list, overseen by Duchêne Le May (formerly of Cafe Boulud), leans French-heavy, with robust Burgundy, Champagne, and back-vintage Bordeaux offerings.

Beyond the restaurant’s equally well-curated list of cocktails and digestifs, we found the best way to end a meal is with a splash of 15-year-old Château d'Yquem, poured from a massive six-litre bottle kept proudly on display in the back of the dining room.

Penny

90 E 10th St 1st Floor, New York, NY 10003

Located upstairs from its sister restaurant Claud, Penny is the seafood-focused brainchild of Joshua Pinsky and Chase Sinzer, and like its older sibling, is home to one of the best wine lists in the city.

This small-yet-fierce East Village fish counter exclusively features counter seating (31 stools are available), and all 17 dishes incorporate some form of seafood in their regimen – making it no surprise that the 1,000-bottle list leans white and sparkling heavy.

Expect extensive Grower Champagne selections from Prévost, Chartogne-Taillet and Elise Bougy, as well as a healthy Burgundy selection (back vintages included).

Saint Urban

43 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003

Saint Urban is one of New York’s most exciting and underrated dining destinations for wine lovers. Opened in May 2025 in the former Veritas space, the wine-focused restaurant features a rotating monthly tasting menu centred around a globally renowned region, with curated pours served alongside each course.

Chef Jared Stafford-Hill, who spearheads both the kitchen and the wine list, offers both four and seven-course options, with past themes including Burgundy, Piedmont, Champagne, and the Northern Rhône.

While Stafford-Hill’s wine pairings are undoubtedly the star of the show, those who prefer to sip by the bottle can choose from a seemingly endless amount of options spread across a show-stopping 140 pages.

Reservations open one month in advance; see the Saint Urban website to view upcoming regional features.

The Modern

9 W 53rd St, New York, NY 10019

The Modern’s wine list has been deemed the best in the city by various wine professionals over the years, and it’s really no surprise why. While the dining certainly errs towards the higher-end of the spectrum, the wine list spans the gamut of styles and regions, with offerings beyond the standard go-to regions.

Expect lengthy offerings from South Africa and Australia as well as Spain, Portugal and beyond. The Modern’s list comprises over 3,000 selections, and spans a monumental 177 pages, with a solid number of bottles clocking in under $100.

Ten additional Manhattan restaurant wine lists to explore:

Crown Shy – 70 Pine St. New York, NY 10005

Daniel – 60 E 65th St, New York, NY 10065

Eleven Madison Park – 11 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10010

Eli's Table – 1413 3rd Ave, New York, NY 10028

Le Bernardin – 155 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019

Nice Matin – 201 W 79th St, New York, NY 10024

Noreetuh – 128 1st Ave., New York, NY 10009

Pinch Chinese – 177 Prince St, New York, NY 10012

Roscioli NYC – 43 MacDougal St, New York, NY 10012

The Noortwyck – 289 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014

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He worked his way up to head sommelier, winning awards along the way, including, in 2020, the title of Best Sommelier Under 35 at the first Food & Wine Italia Awards. That year, he launched Impressioni di Gianni Sinesi – wines made in partnership with carefully chosen winemakers. In 2024, he began working with online wine store Tannico, building a selection of Abruzzo wines for them.

Gianni Sinesi profile image credit: Andrea Straccini

My first memorable wine experience

I was in Germany, blind tasting some of Burgundy’s finest wines. The panel included renowned sommeliers and Italian wine journalists. It was a truly memorable learning experience, especially as I was the youngest sommelier and still quite a novice. It’s an adventure I’ll always carry with me.

My go-to everyday wines

I choose wines based on the day, the season and the moment. I can’t imagine drinking the same wines all the time – every situation has its perfect wine. However, I always look for wines with a few key characteristics: clean aromas, drinkability, character and pleasantness. These elements are essential to ensure the bottle is enjoyed to the last drop.

My favourite supermarket buy

I don’t buy wine at the supermarket – only Peroni beer.

My most embarrassing moment at work

Luckily, wine has a special power: it can dissolve any awkwardness and lighten the mood. Even in the trickiest situations, for example when you open the wrong wine by mistake, a good glass always helps to bring back a smile!

Pet hate

I deeply dislike arrogance and conceit. Occasionally, there are customers who come not to enjoy the experience but solely to criticise, without any expertise. This attitude is extremely disrespectful to our professional role. On the other hand, I also dislike superficiality. Life has taught me not to judge by appearances – you never know who you’re dealing with, or the stories they have to share.

My desert island pairing

Something grilled over an open flame, which I adore. As for the pairing, a Manhattan cocktail is always a safe choice.

Best food and wine match

One of the most successful pairings at Reale was the artichoke by Niko Romito with a gin and tonic. The bitterness of the artichoke and the gin meet on the palate, creating a sweet and persistent balance.

My fallback quick and easy after-work pairing

Bread, cheese, cured meats and a glass of rosé.

Most proud of on my list

It wasn’t one specific wine, but a selection of unexpected labels. I’m particularly proud of the small producers and the underrated Italian grape varieties. If I had to pick something, I’d say the Valpolicella selection of little-known but extraordinary producers, such as Roccolo Grassi, Villa Bellini and Alessandro Boni.

The wine style on my list that always surprises guests

Abruzzese Pecorino. It’s not widely known and often underestimated, but it’s a white wine with great character, depth and the ability to tell the unique story of Abruzzo’s terroir. If you want to discover great Pecorino, seek out the wines of Cataldi Madonna, the king of Pecorino. Other names to look out for would include Tiberio and Casadonna.

The one wine region that I’m most excited about right now

Emilia Romagna, with its fascinating and often underrated grape varieties, such as Pagadebit and Pignoletto.

Wine style or variety that I don’t really enjoy drinking

I’m not particularly fond of wines with excessive maceration (such as orange wine). I find that too much maceration tends to mask the wine’s and the grape’s true identity, making them all seem the same. That said, I don’t mean to generalise – there are producers who handle this style exceptionally well.

Best value for money

Italy in its entirety, without a doubt. Every region offers excellent-quality wines that are still undervalued.

My favourite wine region to visit and my go-to destination while there

Tuscany, especially Montalcino. While some may find it ‘predictable’, it’s always a delightful surprise for me. Whenever I visit, I make a point of catching up with Maurizio Menichetti at the restaurant Caino. He taught me what it means to fall in love with wine tasting and to truly understand a wine.

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In addition to copious bike paths, cobblestone streets and thriving green areas, vibrant gastronomy has gained serious traction in Copenhagen over the past few decades, and the proof can be found in nearly every corner of the city.

Although globally revered for its high-end dining scene, the true joys of the city’s unique flavours are often best enjoyed in small, convivial spaces that beautifully embody the hygge – the Danish word for contentment and cosiness – state of mind, especially when paired with a delicious bottle of wine.

Whether passionate about natural wine or looking to stick with the classics, one thing’s for sure: there’s a bottle of wine for every type of enthusiast just waiting to be popped in Copenhagen – it’s just a matter of knowing where to look.

Best Copenhagen wine bars & restaurants: 13 to try

Apéro

Situated in a 290-year-old red house on the corner of Møntergade and Gammel Mønt, Apéro provides a calm reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Copenhagen’s bustling shopping district. The menu is centered around shareable small plates and classically focused wine list, with extensive by-the-glass options also available. Spearheaded by the same owners and chef as the city’s famed Møntergade restaurant, Apéro takes more of a global approach to its cuisine than its Danish-focused older sibling, offering a cosier ambiance and all-around warmer vibe (the small upstairs sitting area feels like walking into a Scandinavian living room). Grab a glass – or bottle – of Champagne, and don’t miss the stuffed morel mushroom with scallop, zander, sesame and vadouvan sauce. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Gammel Mønt 41, 1117 Copenhagen

Auren’s Deli

Located in Copenhagen’s Frederiksberg neighbourhood, Auren’s Deli is a lively wine bar, delicatessen and small grocery shop space offering farm-to-table products from its eponymous Kirke Hyllinge-based farm. The shop sells an array of organic produce, cheese, charcuterie and dried goods, and by night, becomes a jovial wine bar focused on small sharing plates and natural wines. Guests are encouraged to peruse the fridge and shelves themselves to view the ever-changing selection of bottles, with by-the-glass options and a handful of beers, ciders and hot drinks also available. In the words of Auren’s, the spot highlights ‘familiar and uncommon ingredients that encourage conversation and creativity’. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Godthåbsvej 35, st. Th, 2000 Frederiksberg

Bar Vivant

Known for its warm hospitality and affordable by-the-glass pours, Bar Vivant has become a go-to favourite for neighborhood locals and visitors alike. Tucked away in Nørrebro, the wine bar / bottle shop hybrid is overseen by Andreas Christiansen and Mads Larvåg Mørch, two Norwegian natives passionate about natural, low-intervention wines. The bar’s small yet tasty menu highlights local breads and tinned fish, with wine selections sourced from all across Europe. Enjoy a glass (or few) in the bar’s cheerful ambiance – and if you happen to be in town for the shop’s monthly wine quiz night, all the better.

Address: Elmegade 4, 2200 Copenhagen

Bobe

If refreshing wine and belly-warming food served in a spacious-yet-cosy ambiance – massive fireplace included – is up your street, then a trip to Bobe is simply unmissable. Located in a historic house originally constructed in 1731, the restaurant’s kitchen is run by chef Bo Bech, a Denmark native with over 30 years of culinary experience, and highlights contemporary plates produced from locally sourced ingredients. Vegetarians will take delight in the spot’s grilled Brussels sprouts with capers and pistachios and baked celeriac with mustard sauce, as well as ricotta gnocchi with sorrel, and more. Bobe’s wine list highlights a variety of sustainable, organic and natural producers, and from our experience, there’s really no better way to end a long day exploring the city than with a chilled glass of red by the fire. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Gråbrødretorv 11, 1154 Copenhagen K

Frank

Secure a table at this boutique dining spot in the inner city, known for its excellent wine programme and an ever-changing menu that celebrates the seasons. Guests won’t find a signature dish or a concrete concept behind the food, but that’s because Frank makes whatever it feels like, as long as it’s delicious. In terms of the wine offering, there’s something for everyone: everything the team likes goes on the list, no matter the region, grape variety or winemaking style. Go to appreciate the list’s great vintage depth and spot a few rare finds along the way.

Address: Ny Adelgade 3, 1104 Copenhagen K

Reviewed by Marisa Finetti 

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Translating to the Meatpacking District’s Fish Bar, Kødbyens Fiskebar is an energetic, seafood-focused restaurant set in an industrial, open-concept space. Known for its award-winning food and globally curated wine list, the restaurant focuses on sustainable ingredients and easy-drinking wines, perfect for enjoying on the spot’s expansive terrace on warmer weather days. Menu highlights include Limfjorden blue mussels steamed in apple cider with herbs and double cream, as well as fresh cod sourced locally from the North Sea. Around 15 by-the-glass options are offered in sparkling, white, orange, red and sweet options – recent picks highlighted Jérôme Arnoux (Jura, France), Wagner von Wohlgemuthheim (Mosel, Germany), and a custom Grüner Veltliner made in partnership with Fred Loimer (Austria). Reservations recommended.

Address: Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 Copenhagen

Møntergade

There’s no better place for classically-styled Danish food – or a longer, Bible-like wine list – in Copenhagen then at Møntergade. Known for its signature open-faced sandwiches and Schnapps starter pours that pack a serious punch, this traditional restaurant honours classic Danish heritage with its expansive herring preparations and various cold seafood offerings, along with beef tartares, fried fish and more. The impressive wine and aquavit selections span a substantial 54-page list. Do as the locals do and head for a long, wine-heavy Sunday lunch – though be sure to have zero plans after, as a nap will be well in order. Reservations highly recommended.

Address: Møntergade 19, 1120 Copenhagen

Omegn & Venner

No visit to Copenhagen is complete without a trip to the city’s animated Torvehallerne food market, including a pit stop at Omegn & Venner. Conveniently located within the market itself, this casual wine bar / food counter serves up flavour-packed small plates – think vegetable tarts, terrines and freshly shucked oysters – and palate-cleansing glasses of wine sourced from across Europe. Rotating daily specials can be found on the hanging chalkboard to the bar’s left, with the majority of meats, dairy products and breads sourced from small Danish and Nordic producers. Discover your favourite local meats and cheeses on site, wash them down with a glass or few of low-intervention wine, then order a serving at the counter to take with you. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Inside Torvehallerne: Rømersgade 18, Hal 1, E2, 1362 Copenhagen

Pompette

A no-frills natural wine bar located in trendy Nørrebro neighbourhood stands by the idea that it is the final step in the wine producer’s journey and therefore, commits to pay respect and honour the craft. Pompette, which means ‘tipsy’ in French, keeps quality natural wines at prices that entice another glass or two. When hunger strikes, choose from a variety of snacks, including cheeses and charcuterie.

Address: Møllegade 3, 2200 Copenhagen N

Reviewed by MF

Safari

Offering a mixture of classic and natural styles and highlighting the owner’s personal favourites, the wine list at Safari leans towards selections from Europe. A dozen bar seats invite a sit-down opportunity to grab a glass or bottle. If you’re looking to dine, find an intimate spot to sample a range of dishes, such as beef tartare with hazelnuts and pecorino, or try the kitchen’s selection of tasting menus.

Address: Baggesensgade 9, 2200 Copenhagen N

Reviewed by MF

Silberbauers Bistro

French food may not be at the top of your list when heading to Copenhagen, though Silberbauers Bistro promises to change your mind. Deemed one of the best wine lists in the city, the restaurant’s French-forward bottle selection pairs perfectly with meticulously executed plates centered around classic, fish-heavy bistro favourites. Think pissaladière, mussels and more. A robust by-the-glass selection is also offered, and the vibe of the place is much more casual than fine dining – which may come as a surprise as the kitchen is spearheaded by Mathias Silberbauer who earned a Michelin star for Pure & V in Nice. Note: The menu changes daily and can be found on the restaurant’s portable blackboard. Reservations recommended.

Address: Jægersborggade 40, 2200 Copenhagen

Ved Stranden 10

Located near Christiansborg Palace, this wine shop and bar offers an impressive selection of European wines with an emphasis on Austria. A homey and comfortable spot clearly illustrates the concept of hygge with options to sit at the bar, backed by vintage tea shop cabinetry, or relax at a coffee table in one of the small living rooms with a viewing window to one of the city’s famed areas. There is no wine list at Ved Standen 10, which helps to promote conversation. Ask, taste, discover and enjoy with charcuterie, cheeses and the famous croque monsieur.

Address: Ved Stranden 10, 1061 Copenhagen K

Reviewed by MF

Vintro

For those looking for bottles to enjoy in hotels, Air B&Bs, or simply to take home, Vintro is one of Copenhagen’s most personality-forward wine shops. Located in the buzzy Nørrebro neighbourhood, this natural-focused store highlights small producers and low-intervention wines, with an emphasis on indigenous grape varieties and off-the-beaten-path regions of Europe. The shop’s eclectic selection and friendly team promise to lead you to exactly what you’re looking for – or better yet, open your mind to something new, should you be open to exploring. The team at Vintro visits its wine producers regularly, meaning each selection is carefully vetted prior to being added to the shelves. Insider info: ‘vin tro’ means ‘wine faith’ in Danish.

Address: Ravnsborggade 5, 2200 Copenhagen

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I’m at La Maison du Saké in Paris’s 2nd arrondissement, watching the rain shatter the pavement outside as I sip a cockle-warming glass of sake from organic, natural producer Katori. It’s aromatically complex – smooth yet textured, much like the sandstone walls and blonde oak shelves of the shop.

‘I was expecting you to want something that tastes like fruit and is really easy,’ says Dmitri David, the store manager, who poured me this glass after I mentioned I needed something with depth to combat the dreary weather.

For the last three years, the shop has focused on traditional sakes with lower polishing ratios. ‘Even young people in their twenties want to try something that tastes like soy sauce and mushroom,’ says David.

The market was once dominated by fresh, fruity Junmai Daiginjos made in modern styles. Today, there is a full spectrum of profiles, leading to a diversity of places to enjoy the drink – something the shop has recognised from their sales, with natural wine bars being the latest market sector they’re targeting.

With Japanese cuisine so strong in Paris, traditional Japanese contexts – from high-end to noodle spots – still remain an excellent way to enjoy the drink, while high-end gastronomy has always celebrated sake for its umami and sweetness, with renowned chef Alain Ducasse even venturing into own-label sparkling sake. But Paris’s sake scene is evolving in intriguing ways. So keep your eyes peeled, sake lovers – this list is just a starting point.

La Maison du Saké

11 Rue Tiquetonne

Aiming to showcase the diversity and complexity of sake, this shop organises its selection into distinct categories: modern vs traditional, rice-driven vs water-driven, with entire sections dedicated to natural sake and Koshu (aged sake). The natural sake category is particularly distinctive, emphasising both a technical and philosophical approach – featuring low polishing, no added yeast or lactic acid, and a strong focus on terroir.

There are always up to twenty varieties available for tasting in the shop, while any bottle can be enjoyed at a slightly higher price point in the shop’s bar, Golden Promise, or its restaurant, Erh, where Chef Ryuichi Utsumi crafts dishes that blend Japanese techniques with French ingredients.

Stand Tora (Kunitoraya)

6 Rue de la Sourdière 75001 Paris

At this tiny bar in the heart of Rue Sainte-Anne, the supple piano notes of Bill Evans and Oscar Peterson drift from a vinyl player in the corner as Masumi Nomoto, owner of bar and udon restaurant Kunitoraya, pours sake into coupettes from a diverse range of styles. The selection changes monthly, but the focus remains on her home region of Kochi Prefecture.

While sake hasn’t gained the same foothold in Paris as it has in New York or London, the kind of independent, highly personalised experience that Nomoto’s bar offers thrives in the city. Any food order from the excellent-value chalkboard menu should include the umaki – a dish of tamago (Japanese rolled omelette) layered with black truffle and eel.

L’Ecrin

10 Place de la Concorde

Xavier Thuizat – who was named Best Sommelier of France in 2022 – is one of those key voices emphasising sake’s dynamism and adaptability to French fine dining. At the one-Michelin-starred L’Ecrin, Thuizat has curated a sake pairing alongside a wine pairing. He believes it is a phenomenal way to enhance an umami-forward menu featuring meticulously sourced premium ingredients such as spider crab, turbot, blue lobster, red mullet, Bresse chicken, and wagyu beef from Burgundy.

Wakaze

31 Rue de la Parcheminerie

At this casual sake bar and izakaya-style restaurant, a unique blend of Japanese brewing and French ingredients is showcased. Founded in 2016, the sake is produced at a brewery just outside Paris, using Camargue rice, Burgundy white wine yeast, and house-made koji rice, blending yellow koji for umami and white koji for a citric kick. The baseline sake has a white wine-like profile and is poured fresh from taps into natural wine-style glasses marked with a playful logo. With around twenty-four sakes on offer – many of them experimental – one standout creation is the Sauternes-barrel-aged sake, which carries the saffron and caramel profile of Sauternes, with a Junmai-like savoury, umami finish.

Omasake

27 Rue du 4 septembre

In this futuristically designed space, you can experience a wide range of prices, styles, and geographies, surrounded by sleek, brass-lined walls. The food menu is izakaya-style, with simple dishes, sashimi, and sushi created from the surplus of their Michelin-starred omakase, Sushi Yoshinaga, which is upstairs. With a focus on modern styles of sake production, there is a rotating selection of six sakes by the glass at any one time, with two from each of the categories: Junmai, Junmai Ginjo, and Junmai Daiginjo.

Sushi B

5 Rue Rameau

Offering a more traditional approach to sake, this is one of many Japanese-run places where finely executed Japanese cuisine is beautifully enhanced by sake. With only eight seats, the intimate omakase restaurant ensures that Head Sommelier Jangbae Hong is always on hand to guide you based on your preferences. You can enjoy a glass alongside the more accessible sushi lunch menu, or, if opting for the full omakase experience, a sake pairing that evolves with the three main stages of the meal, or a seven-sake flight to experience the full range of Hong’s precise selections.

Kodawari Ramen (Yokocho)

29 Rue Mazarine

Given the quality of Japanese food in Paris, often regarded as one of the best outside Japan, a perfect way to enjoy sake is with udon, soba, or ramen. Kodawari is one of the best ramen spots in the city – with a consciously transportive décor – and the speciality pairs perfectly with the only sake available, Dassai 45. This excellent-value Junmai Daiginjo is mineral, fruity and cereal-y, with top notes of Asian pear and sesame. It’s ideal then with the Kurogama ramen, a rich, charcoal-hued chicken broth that gets its colour from black sesame. Return to your glass with each slurp, and whatever you do, don’t forget to take a sip after the nori (seaweed), which releases waves of umami on the palate.

Echizen Soba

33 Rue Saint-Roch

A phenomenal soba experience awaits at this intimate spot, where you can watch the craftsmanship of soba production at the bar. Order cold or hot soba and pair it with sake from their short list or the sake du jour, a rotating artisanal selection. For the ultimate experience, go for the herring soba in hot dashi. The herring is caramelised, with a lingering fishy flavour, and the overall umami in the dish is subtle, nurturing, and refined – a quality that could only be enhanced by sake.

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The Best Sommelier of the Americas 2025 was crowned on February 20 at a five-day event organised by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) in partnership with the Best USA Sommelier Association (BUSA).

The event – held every third year – took place at the Flamingo Conference Resort & Spa in Santa Rosa (Sonoma, California) and brought together top sommeliers from Argentina, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Mexico, Ecuador, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, the Dominican Republic, Uruguay, the USA and Venezuela.

Landmark edition

The seventh, 2025 edition of the Best Sommelier of the Americas took place on American soil for the first time, consolidating the collaboration between the ASI and BUSA. Founded in 2018, the latter became a member of the international association in 2021.

The contestants were put to the test in a series of theoretical and practical challenges, including blind tastings, tailored wine services and wine list reviews. After the initial round, the cohort of 14 contestants was narrowed down to six semifinalists: Nicolás Reines (from Colombia), Joris Gutierrez Garcia (Canada), Jerónimo Tellarini (Uruguay), Guilhem Renaud (Ecuador), Joseph Ruiz (Peru) and Mark Guillaudeu MS (USA).

A gripping final and a new champion

The six sommeliers progressed to the next stage of tasks, overseen by ASI’s technical committee. Among the judges were former ASI Best Sommelier of the World-winners Raimonds Tomsons, Serge Dubs, Olivier Poussier, Shinya Tasaki, Véronique Rivest and Andreas Larson, Heidi Mäkinen MW and Paz Levinson, Best Sommelier of Argentina in 2010 and 2014.

On 20 February, the three finalists – Reines, Gutiérrez García, and Guillaudeu – took the stage (designed to look like a restaurant dining room) for the event’s grand finale.

After the jury’s deliberations, William Wouters, president of the ASI, announced that the title of Best Sommelier of the Americas 2025 would go to Gutierrez Garcia with Guillaudeu and Reines taking second and third place respectively.

About Gutierrez Garcia

Born in Montreal, 32-year-old Joris Gutierrez Garcia came into prominence at both local and national level. He went on to win the titles of Best Sommelier of Québec and Canada in 2023.

Currently head sommelier at Montreal fine-dining venue Club Chasse et Pêche and a partner at boutique importer Agence Pirates, Gutierrez Garcia started his hospitality career as a kitchen porter but wine quickly became his passion. He began his sommelier studies in 2013 at the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec and is now a Master Sommelier candidate.

‘Being named the ASI’s Best Sommelier of the Americas 2025 by such a prestigious jury is the culmination of over 10 years of study and hard work,’ said Gutierrez Garcia. ‘It makes me even more determined to continue improving as a professional.

‘These competitions are very important; they’re spaces where colleagues from around the world can come together and share expertise and knowledge,’ he concluded. ‘It’s a great space to grow.’

The victory gives Gutierrez Garcia the ticket to represent the Americas at the next ASI Best Sommelier of the World competition, which will be held in 2026 in Lisbon, Portugal.

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Fìon also runs private and corporate wine tastings, and pop-ups partnering with local restaurants. Miguel Crunia writes about wines from Atlantic regions on his Substack blog Atlantic Sommelier. He also works as a wine judge, educator and speaker.

My first memorable wine experience

Wine was always part of life in my family; my grandfather was a wine merchant. I always remember his advice: ‘When drinking wine, make sure you spend a bit more and drink properly rather than just drinking whatever.’ I didn’t understand what he meant by that back when I was young, but I do now.

My go-to everyday wines

I like to keep Atlantic whites in my fridge – wines from grapes such as Albariño or Palomino. They’re my passion.

My favourite supermarket buy

Oxidative styles of Port and Sherry.

My most embarrassing moment at work

I served a Tenerife wine to two customers, assuming that they had never tasted anything like it. While I was gaily telling them about the island, I related a small fact that was incorrect. I then discovered that they had lived in Tenerife for years. Spotting my mistake, they lost their trust in me. I realised at that moment that information is the most powerful tool with which sommeliers work, not only because our credibility depends on it, but because the work and values of those who have crafted that bottle falls on our shoulders.

Pet hate

It frustrates me when people see the sommelier as enemy number one. Yes, we have created a language that is too technical, putting customers off. But a new generation of storyteller-somms has emerged, and all we want is to help you fall in love with wine – to fall in love with bottled landscapes.

My desert island pairing

A Spanish omelette Betanzos-style (with a runny core), with a glass of my quintessential Albariño, Zárate’s El Palomar (2023, £49 Highbury Vintners).

Best food and wine match

At Fìon, we do a lot of pop-ups, partnering with local chefs to match the wines we stock in our online shop to their menus. One of the most memorable pairings was matching an English Seyval Blanc fizz, made by Sergio Verrillo of London urban winery Blackbook, called GMF (2020, £34.50 Fìon), to a scallop ceviche served with celeriac and a smoked eel sauce, by Fhior restaurant’s chef Scott Smith.

My fallback quick after-work pairing

A sandwich is unbeatable at that time. The fastest and most delicious one is with baked ham, cheddar, mustard and a bit of mayo. An unfortified Palomino aged under flor will do it justice.

Best buy on my list right now

130 Brut Nature by Xavi Bernet, the man behind Júlia Bernet, an artisan winery in Penedès that’s part of the Corpinnat movement. Made entirely with Xarel.lo grapes sourced from the oldest vines of the winery (130 vines give life to this cuvée). We have the 2018 vintage, disgorged in February 2024 after 72 months ageing on its lees, at £42.50. Incredible elegance and fantastic value for money.

The wine that never fails to surprise

Alvar de Dios’ Caminos de los Arrieros (2021, £21-£24 The Fine Wine Co, Winesquare) from Arribes del Duero, just where the Duero river becomes the Douro. This is a red wine that blends indigenous varieties – Juan García and Rufete, among others. Hearing the word ‘Duero’ attached to it, most customers expect power. However, this wine couldn’t be more different: mineral, ethereal (both in colour and body), herbal and surprisingly fresh.

Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list

Non-gastronomic, fruit-forward rosés – there’s nothing wrong with these wines in a social setting, but they’re really not my cup of tea when living a fine-dining experience in a restaurant.

Wine region I’m most excited about

The Ribeiro region in Galicia. Its story is so powerful. Many probably won’t know, but it’s one of the most historical regions in Spain. There was even a flourishing commerce between England and Ribeiro during medieval times – there are records of barrels being sold at twice the price of a barrel from Bordeaux. It’s exciting today because the traditional small-holding leads producers to craft incredible field blends from indigenous varieties, both reds and whites. Some producers are even recovering the almost-forgotten tostado style (sweet, like a passito).

Wine style I don’t enjoy drinking

Picpoul de Pinet.

Best-value wine region

Ribeira Sacra, especially those cuvées coming from the most vertiginous slopes where viticulture is literally a heroic act. When you visit, you realise the wines are too cheap if you consider all the risk and effort that growing vines involves there.

My favourite wine region to visit

I’ll stick with Ribeira Sacra. Driving around those sinuous roads along the river Sil makes the trip worthwhile. If you can, visit names such as Adega Entre Cantos, Adega Sernande, Algueira and Guímaro.

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Mikk Parre has worked as a sommelier for 13 years, entirely in Tallinn, Estonia – in both casual restaurants and high end, Michelin-starred establishments. In 2024, he left his position as head sommelier of Time to Wine Rotermanni, one of the best wine bars in the Baltics, and is currently working as cellarmaster for Bombay Group in Tallinn.

My first memorable wine experience

At the time, I was working as a waiter at a casual neighbourhood restaurant and didn’t know much about wine. One day, a senior colleague came from a special wine event and brought with him a jeroboam of Château Léoville Las Cases 1962. It was an eye-opening wine, like nothing I had tasted before, full of subtle complexity I couldn’t even begin to understand at the time. It was definitely one of those wines that set me on the path of the sommelier.

My go-to everyday wines

Invariably a fresh white with enough fruit for balance – I usually stay away from heavier oaked wines – an Austrian Grüner Veltliner or a Spanish Albariño, for example. When going for a red, I again usually prefer a lighter, fresher wine – an easygoing Barbera from Piedmont or a lighter-style Garnacha from Spain are always safe choices for me.

My favourite supermarket buy

A drier-style Mosel Riesling or a crisp Vinho Verde. Both are usually easy to find at supermarkets and can offer really good value, even at entry-level price points.

My most embarrassing moment at work

Oh there are plenty, but one that often comes to mind is from years back when I was dealing with an exceptionally difficult guest who had an important business meeting. At one point, the guest hastily asked me to bring six vodkas, which seemed a bit unusual for a business lunch, but after confirming with the host and receiving a quick nod and a dismissive ‘yes-yes’ I brought the vodkas. There was an eerie silence and confusion followed. After seeing my red and embarrassed face, the usually cold guest roared with laughter. It was water, not vodka, they had asked for. They proceeded to drink the vodkas, called it a new local custom, and finished the lunch with the business deal going very smoothly, followed by the biggest tip the guest had ever left.

Pet hate

Some people in the wine world can be quite conservative and uptight. In my view, wine is made to be enjoyed and if that means someone wants to put ice into their wine, or drink Champagne from a flute or a 1920s coupe glass, then they are welcome to do so. Our job as sommelier is to guide people on their wine journey, not wag our fingers and create dogmas.

My desert island pairing

Pan-fried foie gras and a glass of luscious Tokaji Aszú. They’re rich enough to sustain me on a desert island for quite a while.

Best food and wine match

I don’t currently work on the floor of a restaurant, but one of the most unusual and amazing pairings I have worked with was smoked eel with a beetroot-potato salad and pickled vegetables, paired with Golan Heights Winery’s Mount Hermon Red (£17.99 Areles, The Wine Cellar), a juicy and fleshy Bordeaux blend. The smoked eel was so intensely flavoured that we found it impossible to pair with white wines and, through sheer luck, a juicy red with a bit of a smoky touch worked absolute magic.

My fallback quick after-work pairing

One of the simplest meals, which also happens to be utterly delicious, is a grilled cheese sandwich. You can rarely go wrong with it as long as you use at least half-decent quality ingredients. After work, you want a fun and relaxing drink, so anything bubbly, a crémant or even a Champagne if the day calls for it, is ideal. Or just a good Pilsener.

Best buy on my list

At the wine bar I worked for until June last year, it was the Envinate, Albahra 2019, an Alicante Bouschet from Almansa, Spain (2022, £24-£26 Cave, Salusbury Winestore, The Sourcing Table) – incredible value at just €25 a bottle on the list. Huge depth of flavour and balance for an entry-level wine.

Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list

I don’t think there are universal rules. Tactics like avoiding the cheapest or second cheapest or most expensive wine never work in my experience. Rather, I would always be wary of very rare, sought-after wines in places where they seemingly don’t belong. Wines such as Petrus, DRC, Rayas and other rarities are among the most-faked, so perhaps a seedy tourist trap is not the place to buy wines like that.

Wine regions I’m most excited about

I’m really excited about the revival and renaissance of ancient wine countries such as Greece and Georgia. Endless diversity of indigenous grape varieties, unusual styles and young winemakers starting projects around every corner is wonderful to see.

Wines I don’t enjoy drinking

Of course there are exceptions and there are quite a few wines I have greatly enjoyed, but in general, Gewürztraminer and Sangiovese usually fail to excite me. I can’t really give any objective reasons; both grapes can clearly be made into fantastic, world-class wines, but I rarely find myself going for a bottle of either one.

Best-value wine regions

Portugal offers massive diversity but never breaks the bank. Regions such as Bairrada or even the still wines of the Douro offer superb wines at reasonable prices and you’ll find even more value in regions such as Lisbon and Alentejo. They are becoming more popular, though, and you can already see price increases in small but exciting regions such as the Azores and Madeira, so get on board quickly!

My favourite wine region to visit

Santorini in Greece. It’s charming, it has a unique style of viticulture, and all of the wineries are within a 30-minute drive of each other. Don’t miss Vassaltis Vineyards – try its Plethora Assyrtiko (2016, £99 Handford), and they have a beautiful restaurant at the winery as well!

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When sommelier Jaime Smith drinks a Châteauneuf-duPape, he sees blocky, heavy red and blue pentagons approaching him – clumsily bumping together. Alcohol drips from above, pushing the muscular shapes out of the metaphorical ‘box’ in his mind.

Smith, the first director of wine at the famous MGM Grand Hotel in Las Vegas and twice named best sommelier in America by Food & Wine magazine, has synaesthesia, a neurological condition that means that, when one of your senses is stimulated, you also experience another.

There are many different types of synaesthesia – from seeing colours when you hear music to associating numbers with different colours and even tasting flavours when reading certain words. Scientists estimate that it affects between 2% and 4% of the population.

Gustatory-visual synaesthesia, where people experience colours, shapes or textures when they taste, is even rarer – affecting about 0.0021% of the population (or one in every 50,000 people), according to researchers at Bournemouth University.

And yet it seems to be remarkably common among top sommeliers. Of the 279 people who have earned the title Master Sommelier, two – Roland Micu and Sur Lucero – are known to experience colours and shapes when they taste wine. Beyond the MS category, the number of synaesthete sommeliers grows further.

Both Micu and Smith put their success as sommeliers (at least in part) down to their synaesthesia – which Smith says gives him his ‘tasting superpower’. When blind tasting, they will often recognise a wine instantly from its shape.

‘Wines with certain acidity levels, alcohol levels, sugar levels do different things to you and create different shapes,’ says Micu, who was the youngest ever Master Sommelier when he qualified aged 28, in 2012, and is currently working at the World Equestrian Center in Florida.

‘Wines with the highest sugar and most alcohol are usually the most round. Those with the most acidity have the most angularity – like a firework shape.’

Roland Micu MS, beverage director at the World Equestrian Center, Florida, created this remarkable image for us, to illustrate his experience of tasting a Nerello Mascalese red from Etna, Sicily.

‘The image is coming at the mouth from east to west, east being the front of the experience. Initially, the wine hits with a burst of tartness and some tannin (east on the image), as the wine takes shape on the palate, the acid continues to take control but what is happening on the back end are the tannins growing (centre of the image) and growing, like a swarm of tiny little tannin compounds taking over the mid-palate and finishing (west on the image) with some balance.’

Personal impression

For Smith – who experiences tastes and smells in a ‘box’ in his mind, where shapes enter then leave – acidity generally shows as a coloured stripe. The longer and brighter the acidity, the longer the line.

Oak ageing, meanwhile, adds a textural fuzziness to his shapes, while high alcohol appears as a dripping precipitation from above.

For Gilian Handelman, vice president of education at Jackson Family Wines in California (and another synaesthete), wines have sounds, too. ‘You get swish swish wines – things like a high-acid Pinot Grigio or Assyrtiko – and gloop gloop wines, which are more viscous – Viogniers and Californian Chardonnay, etc,’ Handelman explains. ‘The noise depends on the body, the fruits and the ripeness.’

It even influences how she pairs wine with food – using the colours, shapes and frequencies of both wine and food to find the right matches. ‘If I’ve got salmon with capers and parsley – capers are “HERE” [she makes a high-pitched trill similar to one she made earlier when describing Sauvignon Blanc], so I know I need to pair it with a high-acid white,’ she adds.

Synaesthesia can also prove helpful when trying to explain wines to customers. ‘All of the time I’m using shapes and hand gestures to describe wines,’ Micu says. ‘I feel people understand better when I describe textures and shapes than when I use more traditional tasting notes.’

Does he think that people would engage more with wine labels if they had colours and shapes as well as tasting notes (a thing Handelman has been exploring)? ‘It could be interesting – though people might not be ready for it.’

Smith is sceptical: ‘People won’t understand if I say, “This is an ultra-blue wine from Otago”. I try to keep it simple.’

Gilian Handelman, of Jackson Family Wines, sketched for us the mental impression she gets on tasting the Gran Moraine, Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay 2021 from Willamette Valley, Oregon (US$50 granmoraine.com).

‘I like to draw this wine from the inside-out as opposed to as a length (front to back) on my palate. I have always loved the brilliance of this wine. It struck me in its first vintage (2013) and I’ve been drawn to it ever since. Aromatically/flavour-wise it points to things from the garden: snap peas/fava, quince, Meyer lemon, squash blossoms, gardenia. Yellow mostly, but with flashes of orange and green.

‘But it’s the texture that thrills me, and where I feel it most in my body: it has a deep centre softness leading to brilliant, zingy frills on the outer edges as it unfolds on my palate. And there are elements within the wine that remind me of sand – enveloping and grainy, standing out as tiny polish points in the length of the texture.’

Memory enhancer

Some research suggests that, rather than being a binary condition that people either have or don’t have, synaesthesia is more of a spectrum. Does this mean that we could learn something from these sommeliers and their ‘superpowers’? All three have run classes where they taste wines and encourage attendees to draw shapes based on what they experience.

Often people are able to visualise what they’re tasting. ‘There will always be a large group with similar pictures,’ says Smith. ‘It’s unexplainable. I thought maybe I was influencing it so I stopped talking about the wine beforehand – but people still came out with very similar drawings.’

Studies also suggest that synaesthetes are more creative and have a better memory than the general population. For Maggie Harrison, an Oregon-based winemaker, her synaesthesia (which means she sees colours when she hears numbers and days of the week) isn’t a tasting superpower but a memory one.

She uses it when blending – which involves blind tasting more than 100 samples from different plots (each represented only by a number) and trying different blended combinations. By associating each numbered sample and each blend with a colour, Harrison can immediately remember its characteristics when blending.

The enhanced recall aspect of synaesthesia is another thing we may be able to emulate. A trial carried out by researchers at the University of East London found that, when non-synaesthetes were taught to associate certain letters with certain colours they were able to remember words more easily.

But be careful what you wish for. A synaesthesia superpower comes with downsides, too. ‘I can pick up all the smells in the room. As a child, I used to become overwhelmed,’ Smith says. ‘Chemical smells are really jagged to me. Even now, with my wife, we have to talk about what perfumes she buys because some trigger me.’

Three things can we learn from synaesthete sommeliers

• Even if you don’t think you perceive wines as shapes or colours, have a go at drawing what you experience during tastings. It may reveal more than you expect.
• If you’re trying to remember something, associating it with a colour or sound may help. This could be useful when trying to memorise wine regions or grape varieties.
• When pairing wine and food, think about colour and shape – not just flavour. Does a pointy green bean really go with a rounded butter-yellow Chardonnay? Or would a sharp, crisp, chartreuse-green Sauvignon Blanc be better?

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Ever more mainstream, the long-held stereotype of natural wine as flawed and funky is full of more holes than Swiss cheese these days. As wine consumers have continued to embrace these wines for a combination of their farming and winemaking ethos, their punk rock bonafides remain intact.

‘I believe our awareness of climate change, the need to act more sustainably overall to alter our lifestyles and reduce our footprint has led to the popularity of organic, biodynamic and natural wine,’ says Marko Kovac of Karakterre, the natural wine salon highlighting Eastern and Central European wines.

‘If we’re choosing EVs over gasoline-powered cars, why not do the same when we consider what to consume? Beyond just environmental issues, we want to be healthier. Organic, biodynamic and natural wines, being free of many chemicals used in conventional farming, are indeed healthier – though we can’t escape the reality that they are alcohol in the end and should probably be consumed in moderation.’

A natural evolution

‘Yes, the movement has seen a significant shift from what in previous years has been perceived as a bunch of underground weirdos drinking the funky stuff – and that’s a great achievement,’ Kovac admits.

‘In the early days, there was a need to fight for the place at the table, being laughed at by the conventional wine industry and professionals, hence the notions of wine needing to be cloudy, without any sulphites added, and even welcoming of certain wine faults. It was maybe the only way natural wine could have made a name for itself.

‘However, we must admit that, in many cases, those same wines were in some cases truly undrinkable. In a way, everyone needed to grow up: the winegrowers, the industry, the market and the consumer. It was just such a radical message.

‘The formula obviously worked. Today, you find organic, biodynamic and natural wines on many tables across the globe. It is not an isolated movement anymore. It’s not just a trend. Everyone has “evolved”: the winegrower trading the faults for a more sensible product, the professionals adopting the category, and the market asking for these types of wines.

‘Of course, on both sides, one still sees extremes – wine professionals who refuse to enter the category and winegrowers who refuse to use sulphur. But the two worlds have come closer than ever. That’s evident through global wine lists and how even conventional wineries are shifting to more sustainable production.’

A place at the table

As the movement has taken up space on shelves in well-pointed bottle shops and fine dining wine lists, it has found champions in the kitchen who are true believers.

These chefs see a direct connection between the embrace of care and stewardship in the farming that goes into their ingredients in the kitchen and the like-minded practices in vineyards and cellars of natural winemakers.

Ana Roš of Hiša Franko

‘Personally, I’m drawn to natural wines because they align with my philosophy of staying close to nature,’ says Ana Roš of the three Michelin star Hiša Franko in Slovenia.

‘Just as I prefer minimal intervention in my food, I appreciate wines made with as little interference as possible. It’s important to me to know what I’m putting into my body, and natural wines provide that sense of integrity.

‘For the past 25 years, I’ve been drinking natural wines. It’s a legacy from my ex-husband’s (Valter Kramar) father, Franko, who opened Hiša Franko in the early 1970s. At that time, when natural wines were often called “wines with mistakes”, Franko was already collecting wines from pioneers like Valter Mlečnik and the Batič family. This passion for natural wines was carried forward by Valter, an ardent advocate and drinker of natural wines who has always believed in their importance.

‘At Hiša Franko, this legacy thrives. Our wine list is now almost entirely natural, and we offer two distinct wine pairings. The first, “Classy”, features refined, elegant wines with a more polished character. The second, “Funky”, celebrates the wilder side of natural wines – those that Valter loves most. It’s fascinating to see how guests divide themselves into these two distinct groups of preferences.’

Daniela Soto-Innes of Rubra

After famously leaving the iconic New York restaurants that she founded with chef Enrique Olvera, Cosme and Atla, Mexican chef Daniela Soto-Innes unveiled her long-awaited Rubra in Nayarit, Mexico last autumn. Located on the coast in Punta de Mita, the restaurant hosted its first wine dinner with pairings from Austria’s natural wine rockstars, Gut Oggau.

‘Wine has been one of my growing passions through the years,’ Soto-Innes explains. ‘The level of spiciness in my cooking, for example, has gone down a lot because I want the food to pair well with wine. I want the two to sing together.’

As a chef in New York City, she learned and discovered new wines in the city’s eclectic wine bar scene. Just before opening Rubra, she’d been on a whirlwind tour of the natural producers of Alsace and counts among her favourites Pierre Frick and Domaine Lissner.

‘All of our guests on the first evening were intrigued by the Gut Oggau wines. We selected them for our opening because their wines, like our food, are fresh and alive,’ says Soto-Innes, who works with her beverage director, Andrea Hernández, former sommelier at Quintonil, a two Michelin star restaurant in Mexico City.

Hernández curates a list focused on organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wines.

‘While not completely natural, 90% of our list are producers who work organically or biodynamically and our largest producer farms 60 hectares, so we’re supporting small, family farms. It’s a niche for our Mexican guests, and that’s exciting to show them something new,’ Hernández explains.

‘Natural wine goes so well with Mexican cuisine. Like our food, it expresses place, and the acidity frames our flavours and spices, much better than big Riojas or California wines traditionally served in Mexican fine dining.

‘Chef Dani and I are both spiritual people, and we both believe we have a responsibility to the environment and how we source food reflects that. So it makes sense that we’re drawn to natural producers connected to the land like Gut Oggau. We want to partner with people like that, who feel that greater sense of the world around them.’

What goes with Gaggan?

An experience dining at Gaggan in Bangkok‘s southeastern Watthana District is much more like a performance than a meal. Set up as a theatre in the round, guests sit in pitch black as Gaggan Anand and his culinary team perform under black lights, and a booming, curated playlist is picked to accompany the menu.

A neon sign in red cursive script on the restaurant’s far left wall captures Gaggan’s ethos. ‘Be a rebel,’ it reads.

How did one of the world’s most iconic chefs, who needs only go by one name, come to have a 100% natural wine list at his eponymous restaurant and nearly as famous Indian-Mexican fusion joint, Ms Maria & Mr Singh, just upstairs?

‘We needed a wine programme that would respond to my “madness” in the kitchen, to be honest,’ Gaggan tells me. ‘We thought, hey, we are doing all these crazy, highly personalised, progressive dishes, so our wine programme should follow this madness! It’s worked.’

Alongside his well-known and controversial dishes, like ‘Lick it up’ and ‘Rat’s Brains’ an array of the world’s top natural wines are paired.

‘Like the food, the wines we feature are equally personal and made by small family farmers just like those we get our ingredients from. And both our food and the wines are natural! Today, Gaggan is a rare upscale restaurant with a fully natural wine list, well it’s not a list per se, as much as a curated part of the dining experience.’

Sommelier Vladimir Kojic runs the entirely natural programme at both restaurants.

‘Vladimir will take you along on the wine journey as our chefs and I take you through each dish, aiming for the perfect accompaniment. In our minds, the wine is on equal footing with food.

‘We hope to help people understand that wine, like food, is deeply personal! It’s an expression of a person, a place, something integrated into our lives, not separate from our experience.’

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Three years later, Reinstaller joined Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London (also two Michelin stars), where he worked with Stefan Neumann MS and Vincenzo Arnese for nearly five years. During this time, he was promoted to assistant head sommelier, and achieved the SSA Master Sake Sommelier title. In 2021, he moved to Trivet (two stars) as head sommelier, passing the Master Sommelier Advanced exam the same year. In 2023, he joined the opening team of Raffles London at the OWO as the head sommelier for Mauro Colagreco.

Philipp Reinstaller profile photograph credit: Koray Firat

My first memorable wine experience

One of my earliest and most impactful wine moments happened about a decade ago, when I enjoyed the 1987 vintage Pinot Bianco from Cantina Terlan. I enjoyed it at Miil, a restaurant in Trentino-Alto Adige. The freshness and vitality of the wine astonished me.

My go-to everyday wines

I have a line-up of go-to wines that I enjoy regularly. My top five bottles at the moment are: Sattlerhof, Eichberg Sauvignon Blanc, Styria, Austria 2022; Kumeu River, Village Chardonnay, Auckland, New Zealand 2022; Strehn Blaufränkisch Rosé, Burgenland, Austria 2023; Thymiopoulos, Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes, Naoussa, Greece 2021; and Cosse Maisonneuve, Le Combal, Cahors, France 2019. These wines represent an ideal spectrum of vibrant flavours and regions.

My favourite supermarket buy

The Te Muna Road Pinot Noir 2019 from Craggy Range in Martinborough, New Zealand, is a standout. [UK supermarket] Waitrose often has it in stock it at around £25, and it offers a beautifully balanced, fruit-driven expression of Pinot Noir with refreshing acidity.

My most embarrassing moment at work

I once managed to half undress a guest by accident while helping them to remove their coat. To make matters worse, it happened at the table rather than at the restaurant entrance!

Pet hate

Sommeliers who overcomplicate wine for guests or try to make it about themselves are a real pet peeve. I believe a sommelier should enhance the dining experience, not overshadow it.

My death row request

I’d probably skip the wine and go for something a bit stronger – green chartreuse Tarragona. Paired with a Hong Kong-style French toast, it’s an indulgence I’d love to savour to the end.

Best food and wine match

At my restaurant right now, I’m particularly fond of our pairing of red oak lettuce with smoked haddock and a warm vermouth and cockles sauce, served alongside the Vinmouth Blanc 2021 made by 4 Ever Wine. The intense, savoury notes of the sauce and the aromatic, subtly sweet vermouth flavour come together beautifully, creating a harmonious and memorable match.

My fallback, quick after-work pairing

For a quick and satisfying bite, I usually just fix a plate of cheese and charcuterie. I’ll choose two wines to pair it with: François Rousset Martin’s La Chaux Chardonnay 2018 from Côtes du Jura for the cheese, and a glass of Domaine Jamet, Côtes du Rhône 2019 to complement the cured meats.

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

We recently acquired some Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères 2022 by Camille & Guillaume Boillot – their first vintage – and I’m thrilled to have it on the list. It’s a wine I’m genuinely excited about.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Our Grüner Veltliner Lust Elafonisi 2020, crafted by Clemens and Lukas Strobl in Austria’s Wagram region, always catches guests off guard. It has a hint of skin contact and extended lees ageing, making it an unconventional Grüner. Guests are consistently surprised by its versatility, especially when paired with our pumpkin, sage and monkfish dish.

Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list

Half-bottles can be tricky – they sometimes develop too quickly. I prefer offering a broader selection of wines by the glass instead.

Region that excites me most

At the moment Kakheti in Georgia has my full attention right now. I’m a big fan of amber wines, and after visiting Georgia last year, I’m even more captivated by the region’s rich tradition, remarkable hospitality and distinctive wines.

What I really don’t enjoy drinking

For me, balance is key. Any wine lacking harmony, regardless of grape or style, doesn’t appeal to me.

The wine regions that offer the best value for money, in my view

Vinho Verde in Portugal, Naoussa in Greece and Kakheti in Georgia are producing exceptional wines at great value. Additionally, I believe that Madeira and Sherry remain underappreciated for their diversity and quality.

My favourite wine region to visit, and my go-to spots once I’m there

A dream day trip would start in Porto with a bifana [a traditional Portuguese pork sandwich] and a Super Bock beer at Conga, a famous restaurant located in the heart of the city, followed by a refreshing Port and tonic by the river. I would then spend the rest of the day in the Douro valley. On the way back, I’d stop at O Gaveto, which has views over the Douro river, for seafood rice with some aged Niepoort Coche – a perfect end to the day.

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It is a few years since analysis of my saliva became an integral part of my tasting protocol, after I discovered the work of Jacky Rigaux and Jean-Michel Deiss on geosensory tasting. It started with Rigaux’s book Geosensorial Tasting: The art and manner of tasting wines of origin (Terre en Vues, 2015). Frustrated by the limits of analytical tasting, Rigaux wanted to highlight another form of tasting: that of 19th-century gourmets, winemakers and merchants.

Using a tastevin – a small, flat, fluted metal cup – the gourmets of that time favoured first the sight, followed by the mouthfeel and texture of the wine, ending with the observation of its persistence in the mouth. Aromas, difficult to perceive in this type of cup, were secondary.

The 20th century, according to Rigaux, saw a dramatic evolution in the methodology of wine appreciation. Everything changed in the 1960s when Jules Chauvet, a Beaujolais wine merchant and chemist, developed, at the request of France’s INAO institute, a new approach based on olfaction (sense of smell), which he considered far superior to taste in differentiating wines. It was a subject of prime economic and political importance at the time, to support the appellation contrôlée idea. The result was the creation of a standardised glass and a grid of terminology that emphasised aromatic compounds. These became tools embraced by oenologists, then by wine-growers, and finally disseminated by journalists and educators.

Yet according to Rigaux – and then winemakers such as Henri Jayer, Jean-Michel Deiss and Anselme Selosse – these tools, coupled with technological advances in viticulture and oenology, made it impossible to distinguish wines of place or terroir from industrial wines: the nose can be deceived, but the mouth less so. Hence recent moves to return to tasting according to mouthfeel and texture. This technique could help to recognise terroir wines, by relying not on sight and aromas, but on trigeminal sensations (such as touch and temperature) and the quality of saliva, seeking less to criticise than to understand the wine and the winemaker’s intention.

It’s an approach that spoke to me immediately: not only could it show notable differences between wines (even if difficult to interpret at first), but it invited me to take a much greater interest in my own physiology, to understand the mechanisms at play.

Scientific work on the subject began to emerge, notably Neuroenology: How the brain creates the taste of wine by Gordon M Shepherd (Columbia University Press, 2016), but also that of Gabriel Lepousez, a neuroscientist who was particularly interested in matters of salivation and interoception (awareness of internal sensations in the body, including the guts). Which salivary gland produces which type of salivation in reaction to which compounds in wine? How does the quality of these compounds matter – acidity, tannin, umami? How could this be linked to the wine-grower’s viticultural practice and terroir – the shape of the wine, its energy?… These paths that I continue to explore today have changed my view of my body and my tasting practices, forcing me to introspection.

To feel the DNA of a wine – whether it is a vin de lieu (‘wine of place’) or not – I have improved my mindfulness, changing my breathing and using yoga and meditation to gain better muscle relaxation and focus. I have also worked to better understand my digestion, to be as receptive as possible when tasting.

The results are amazing. I have never felt so good, or tasted so well. At a time when moderate wine consumption is under attack, I believe that a new mindful approach to tasting, inspired by this geosensory approach, can be a remarkable, holistic practice for our well-being, and our love of wine.

In my glass this month

The Loire’s Anjou, where I am from, is a great laboratory to explore the vin de lieu idea, thanks to a cohort of terroir-focus vignerons. Try Benoît Courault’s Les Guinechiens 2021 (US$63 Golden Hour Wine), an old-vine Chenin Blanc from one of the schistous hills of the Layon valley. The resulting saliva is very welcoming, both thick and refreshing, giving a lingering feeling of satisfaction and wholeness fuelled with delicate umami. A complete and vibrant wine!

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Vladimir Kojic has worked in the wine industry for 20 years. He started as a sommelier working for the Cunard cruise line and the Queen Mary 2, before moving to the Soneva Kiri hotel, on a remote island in Thailand. He passed the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Advanced-level qualification in 2012, and is studying for Master Sommelier. He is now head sommelier at star Indian chef Gaggan Anand’s restaurant Gaggan in Bangkok, which opened in late 2019 and is currently at No3 in The World’s 50 Best’s listing of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

The origin of the natural wine movement is usually attributed to a gang of four who were working in Beaujolais in the early 1980s: Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thévenet and Guy Breton. For me, as someone from the Balkans born in 1983, the movement also had important roots in Styria, a small, hilly region in Austria on the border with Slovenia. It has a mosaic of soil types, the most common being a calcareous marl called opok.

When it comes to grapes, white varieties dominate here – Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Muskateller among them; for reds, the main varieties are Zweigelt and Blauer Wildbacher, a relative of Blaufränkisch with racy acidity and a fruity robustness.

Instead of talking in general terms about the region itself, I want to introduce you to what I call the Styrian Gang of Four: Sepp Muster, Ewald Tscheppe, Andreas Tscheppe and Franz Strohmeier. This unofficial grouping, brought together for the purposes of this article, is important. Its members have helped to transform the picture of Austrian winemaking and their efforts have led to an explosion in numbers of low-intervention growers, not just in Styria but across the whole country. The four are best friends (and sometimes family), working with similar soil types, climates and philosophies, but when it comes to the wine they produce, there are four different worlds out there.

Sepp Muster

Weingut Maria & Sepp Muster

From a traditional winemaking family, Sepp Muster’s views on agriculture, winemaking – and life – changed drastically after a car accident. He turned to biodynamic practices in the vineyard and a minimal-intervention approach in the cellar – or, as he says, ‘not doing much, and letting things happen’. I have often served his white wines (50/50 blends of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) blind and the most common guess I get back is top-class Jura Chardonnay, where a reductive character can show in youth, yielding over time to a spectrum of complexity. Turning to red, Zweigelt is the only grape he works with, and in his older vintages I find many similarities with the top wines of the Rhône valley.

Try: Sgaminegg, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. In its youth, there’s always a strong presence of reduction, which I compare to the smell of curry leaf. But you’ll also find stone, apple and peach aromas, insane acidity and a long finish.

Ewald Tscheppe

Weingut Werlitsch

Ewald Tscheppe’s vines are planted on a small hill next to his house, and he has established his own, Burgundian-style classification system. Grapes from the base of the hill go into Ex Vero I, those from the middle go into Ex Vero II, and fruit from the hilltop goes into Ex Vero III, his equivalent of a Burgundy grand cru. The wines are a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, never see new oak and have an intense balance of acidity and minerality – and for me, they are everything the best Burgundies ought to be.

Try: Ex Vero III 2013, another Chardonnay- Sauvignon Blanc blend. Precision and freedom, in a single bottle. (2020, £66-£69 Newcomer, Oranj)

Andreas Tscheppe

Andreas & Elisabeth Tscheppe

@weingut_andreas_tscheppe

Ewald Tscheppe’s brother Andreas is also a winemaker, located just next door to him, and affectionately called the Wizard of the Hill by his friends. Andreas’ wines are named after amphibians and insects, such as Salamander, Stagbeetle, Dragonfly… all the living creatures that he considers friends. These are clean, precise wines, but are very different to those made by his brother.

Try: Blau Libelle 2017, a Sauvignon Blanc unlike any other: green olive texture but with aromatic scents, high acidity and a very long finish. (2022, £50-£55 Cellar Next Door, Hedonism, Les Caves de Pyrene)

Franz Strohmeier

Franz Strohmeier

In my eyes, Franz was never a winemaker, but a philosopher who transferred his philosophy into the bottles. These aren’t wines that you can just grab from the shelf and open – you need to dedicate time to tasting them with your full attention, trying to understand what they aim to do. Once you’re in tune with that, whatever you open of his will be pure magic. His wine labels all display the same words in German: Trauben, Liebe und Zeit (‘Grape, Love and Time’). Grapes are the raw material; you can’t make good-quality wine without love; and in the end, the wines need time in bottle to show at their best. That’s Franz’s philosophy in a nutshell – in the end it’s pretty simple.

Try: Wine der Stille No6 (NV, US$89 The Cellar d’Or), a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). As if reading a book, this evolved with time in the glass. It started out with aromas of Pecorino cheese, then was reminiscent of ripe blood oranges, and ended up with a Japanese umeshu plum liqueur character, with some sweetness.

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From tiny hole-in-the-wall bars to lofty Michelin-starred restaurants, Spain’s gastronomic scene is more dynamic and vibrant than ever. The next generation of restaurateurs, chefs and sommeliers are crafting remarkable wine lists, innovative food-and-wine pairings and unique fusion cuisine. It’s impossible to list every exciting new venue in Spain, but the four restaurants and wine bars below are a snapshot of the people and places worth knowing about.

Albariza en las Venas

Calle Divina Pastora 3, Local 51, Jerez de la Frontera

From the moment winemaker Juan Carlos Vidarte and sommelier Rocío Benito first met during the 2021 harvest at Bodegas Luis Pérez in Jerez, they knew they would work together again. Their latest collaboration is Albariza en las Venas, which opened its doors in May 2024. Named for Sherry country’s famous chalk soils, ‘Albariza in the Veins’ is much more than your average neighbourhood wine bar. ‘We wanted to open a place where our friends could come, and young people weren’t afraid to open a bottle – but also where winemakers in Cádiz could find wines from all over the world,’ Benito says.

There’s a spotlight on local wines. ‘Jerez is in a really great place right now,’ Benito continues. ‘There’s this explosion of new projects, with a lot of winemakers arriving in the area and young people investing in different styles like vinos de pasto [unfortified wines, firmly rooted in Jerez terroir]; we want to give them a platform.’

They also offer selections from countries such as Italy, Greece and Croatia, ‘which up until now were completely unknown here’.

Benito describes the bar as ‘a really casual space’, adding: ‘Both of us like to have fun with wine and we wanted the space to reflect that. The important thing is to have a great time drinking wine, without any pretence.’

Wines are complemented by gildas (skewered olive, anchovy and guindilla pepper), sandwiches and other tapas. A standout combination is the Ibérico pork jowl sandwich paired with a sparkling pét-nat Palomino, another style that has become a darling of Jerezano winemakers recently. Benito recommends Bodega de Forlong’s Burbuja (2021, US$26 PJ Wine), Bodega Vinifícate’s Sparkling Amorro (£23.50 Dvine Cellars) and El Piraña’s Tarbissana.

Okra

Rúa Luís Seoane 11, O Grove, Galicia

Having begun his career in his native Japan, Takahide ‘Taka’ Tanaka first worked with Javier Olleros when the latter was at the celebrated Michelin three-star Basque restaurant Martín Berasategui. When in 2009 Olleros opened his own restaurant, Culler de Pau, Taka spent years in the kitchen as Olleros’ right-hand man, together achieving two Michelin stars. Taka fell in love with O Grove – and with his now-wife Siana, when she arrived at Culler de Pau.

The couple opened Okra in May 2024, just after the birth of their son. ‘We opened Okra so we could all be together,’ Taka explains. The concept is a tavern with attentive service, impeccable food and an informal atmosphere. ‘We offer professional service, but at the same time we want to chat with our guests,’ Taka says.

Visitors can expect Japanese-inflected dishes using Galician ingredients, paired with European wines and Japanese sakes. ‘Very good wines have been made in Galicia for a long time, and now they’re being promoted more in restaurants,’ Taka says, ‘where people are introducing small wineries, native grapes and blends, and offering more daring by-the-glass listings. We want to take a bit of a risk.’

He says the menu changes often: ‘In the short time we’ve been open, we’ve already made quite a few dishes. But if I had to choose one I would say the miso-glazed dengaku aubergine paired with natural wine As Londras MC, a Mencía-based red blend with six months of carbonic maceration, made in Ribeira Sacra. And for the more daring, I would pair the scallop with vegetables in broth with Rihaku Wandering Poet sake.’

La Caníbal

Calle de Argumosa 28, Madrid

Javier Vázquez opened his wine bar in the Madrid neighbourhood of Lavapiés in 2018, to showcase his favourite wines, craft beers and artisan cheeses. He’s since added two sister venues: La Grifería in Madrid Río (just south of the river Manzanares), and the brewery and beer hall La Fábrica, which opened in late 2023, in the San Blas district.

La Caníbal has become a go-to destination for wine lovers. It’s an educational space, too, hosting regular classes and tastings with visiting winemakers. Visitors can enjoy 16 wines on tap or choose from a list of more than 800 Spanish and international labels. Head sommelier Pablo González says their ambition is ‘to promote sincere wines that represent a place, a vintage and a grower’.

There’s a similar approach in the kitchen, with a focus placed on seasonal ingredients from small, artisan producers. ‘Madrid’s gastronomic scene is dynamic and fun,’ González says. ‘Although it might sound a bit presumptuous, we feel that we’re forging a new path, aiming to democratise wine by pouring wines on tap and focusing on smaller winemakers over big, well-known brands.’

Although the wine list and menu change with the seasons, one star-pairing – matching octopus with the Mencía red on tap – has permanent pride of place, reflecting Vázquez’s Galician roots; the bar was going to be called ‘Galicia Caníbal’ after the 1986 hit by Galician pop-rock band Os Resentidos. González also recommends rice with lobster, ‘washed down with some of the small-producer Champagnes that we rotate’.

Mikan

Carrer d’Aribau 158, Barcelona

Friends Dan Jin (known as Tan) and Arthur Holland-Michel started cooking and drinking together about five years ago.

Tan was born in China to a Korean family, and spent much of her life in Japan. ‘She would cook these delicious, soulful meals and I would bring over wines that I was learning about as I drank my way through the fundamentals of European natural wine,’ says Holland-Michel.

‘We realised that Tan’s food paired beautifully with the kinds of wines we were interested in, and thought others might enjoy the combination as much as we did.’

Together with a third partner, Woody Wang, they opened Mikan in April 2023. The space draws inspiration from Japanese wine bars, with a Spanish influence.

They serve small shared plates for dinner and a main dish with four sides for lunch. Holland-Michel describes the approach as ‘lighthearted but precise’, and says they don’t take themselves too seriously. They host a DJ event once a month.

Holland-Michel observes that Barcelona is going through a natural wine boom, but his approach is not dogmatic. ‘Every wine is on the list because we enjoy drinking it – nothing more, nothing less,’ he says.

‘We serve plenty of wines that cater to a more “classic” palate, but they’re not there as a concession. If we can see a way of making them work with the food, we’re delighted to have them.’

Some of the team’s favourite pairings include Iberian pork loin katsu with Didier Grappe’s Pif Purple from the Jura; koji-cured mackerel served with Cuvée Total, a rosé from Catalonian low-intervention producer Oriol Artigas (2020, £45 Dynamic Vines); or the house kimchi with a bottle of Kamara’s Nimbus Ritinitis, an orange retsina Assyrtiko from northern Greece near Thessaloniki.

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