A celebratory July 1 Canada Day table in British Columbia is a sight to be seen.

There might be spot prawns piled onto a platter beside a bowl of strawberries. Cedar-planked salmon comes off the grill while someone else flips burgers.

Corn is rolled in butter. A bag of ketchup chips appears from nowhere. Later, there's a butter tart on a paper plate.

It's a chaotic menu by wine-pairing standards, but wines from Canada’s westernmost province of British Columbia (BC) handle it because of one thing: acidity.

Freshness has built BC's international wine reputation, and it's also what makes the wines useful at the table.

Canadian summer food tends to be rich, smoky, sweet, and salty, often all at once. Bright acidity doesn't fight those flavours, it keeps up with them.

'What goes together grows together,' says Okanagan Valley native Ned Bell, one of Canada’s best-known chefs and co-owner of Hatch Hospitality in Vancouver.

Across the board, 'BC's climate gives our wines an acidity and freshness that work beautifully with food,' Bell adds.

Seasonal food that hits the spot

Take spot prawns – the large Pacific Ocean crustacean prized for its lobster-like sweetness and delicate buttery texture.

For a few weeks each spring, they're the most anticipated ingredient on Canada's west coast – restaurants build menus around them, fishmongers sell out.

‘Wild BC spot prawns signal that summer is on its way,’ says Bell. ‘They kick off an incredible parade of seasonal ingredients, from strawberries and raspberries to sweet corn, cherries, apricots, and peaches, each arriving in its own perfect time.’

The excitement surrounding spot prawn season says something about Canadian summer food.

Despite the country's reputation for hearty fare, the best warm-weather meals are often built around fresh fish and produce; ingredients that taste best when they're barely touched.

BC wine matches that instinct almost exactly. ‘The focus is on style and texture, with acidity playing a key role across all wines,’ says Bram Bolwijn, guest and VIP experience manager with Iconic Wineries of BC.

That same acidity that flatters shellfish also holds up to the grill – and Canadian summer cooking loves a grill.

Open-fire grilling, fresh produce – and rosé

Cedar-planked salmon remains one of the country's most iconic warm-weather dishes.

The technique originates with Indigenous nations along the Pacific coast – including the Squamish, Tsilhqot'in, and Haida – who cooked salmon over open fire on cedar planks, drawing on cedar's deep cultural significance in coastal life.

Elsewhere, burgers, sausages, and steaks become the centrepiece of backyard gatherings.

Ask Joshua Bauerlein, estate chef at Liquidity Wines in Okanagan Falls, what a real Canadian summer meal looks like and his answer isn't particularly complicated.

‘Grilled game and burgers. Mixed with fresh seasonal produce like Okanagan peaches and sweet corn, and cold, refreshing sides.’

Bauerlein’s answer raises the obvious question: what wine goes with all of this? ‘Rain or shine, I love a good Cabernet Franc rosé,’ he says.

Rosé zeroes in on the middle ground. It has enough freshness for salads and seasonal vegetables, enough fruit for burgers, and enough character to stand up to smoky flavours.

‘Cab Franc's bright acidic and often herbal structure helps cut through the richness of game while highlighting the earthy and savoury notes from the grill,’ adds Bauerlein.

Diversity and freshness

That willingness to surprise is why other parts of the world are now paying attention to the wines from Canada’s west coast.

BC produces everything from traditional-method sparkling wine and aromatic whites to vast ranges in red wines and rosé, and let’s not forget ice wine. Few regions offer such a mixed bag while maintaining a consistent sense of freshness.

For international drinkers discovering BC wine for the first time, Bolwijn believes geography may attract attention, but it isn't what keeps people interested.

‘The Okanagan Valley's location begins the conversation: quality and the way we present our wines build our reputation, through a region that is defined by diversity.’

That diversity is particularly useful on Canada Day, when the menu rarely sticks to one theme. Seafood shares space with grilled meats. Farmers' market produce sits beside potato chips. Dessert appears long before anyone is actually hungry.

Wines that make sense

Which brings us to the butter tart: a uniquely Canadian dessert of brown sugar, often maple syrup and, yes, lots of butter, that tastes similar to pecan pie without the pecans.

Ice wine carries a reputation as a special-occasion pour – more likely to be offered to visitors than poured on a random Tuesday. Yet few wines make more sense alongside a butter tart.

The dessert is rich, intensely sweet, and unapologetically indulgent. A dry wine can feel harsh by comparison. Ice wine to the rescue; matching the tart where it is, while acidity prevents the pairing from becoming cloying.

That's the thing about BC wine. It doesn't need a carefully planned tasting menu to make sense.

Give it spot prawns, salmon, burgers, corn, or dessert. Give it the slightly chaotic spread that appears on Canadian tables every summer. More often than not, it finds a way to fit in.

10 BC wines to pair with Canadian summer dishes

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‘Shaped by two antithetical phases, 2022 was a unique interpretation of the region’s extremes’

‘This was a very strange growing year,’ reflects Costa Gavaris of the boutique Rigour & Whimsy label.

To most outsiders, British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley may be puzzling at the best of times. North of the 49th parallel, it is often mistakenly deemed cool climate.

Admittedly, winter can be frigid. However, summer temperatures often soar beyond 40° Celsius, and rainfall is scarce.

Above all, the growing season for fine wine production is typically compressed and intense.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the top 2022 Okanagan wines

2022 Okanagan Valley: 4.5/5

A record-cool and rainy spring eventually transitioned into a dry, hot summer with some heat spikes in the south. Throughout the valley, the prolonged, warm, and sunny autumn brought grapes to maturity. Across a range of styles, grape varieties, and subregions, the wines offer exquisite fruit purity and intensity, vibrant acidity, and balanced alcohol.

A year marked by extremes

Shaped by two antithetical phases, 2022 was a unique interpretation of the region’s extremes. According to Summerland’s RDC Growing Degree Days (GDD) data, the months of April through June were among the coldest of the last 25 years.

By contrast, the period of August through October was one of the warmest.

‘The cool, wet weather in the spring was initially welcome,’ says Rajen Singh at Ursa Major, ‘but by June, people started to panic.’

From delayed bud burst and shoot development to flowering and fruit set, the growing cycle lagged an average of three weeks behind.

‘It was tracking to be a rosé or sparkling wine year,’ asserts Rebecca Mikulic at Three Sisters, who was worried about reds not reaching phenolic ripeness.

The sudden arrival of summer in July brought dry, hot conditions typical of this semi-desert region. An uninterrupted succession of days in the mid-30s °C made August the Okanagan’s hottest ever on record, yet without excessive heat spikes.

Regional differences

The devil, though, is always in the details. Expanding 175 km from north to south, the Okanagan Valley varies markedly at its two extremes.

Spearhead’s winemaker Grant Stanley cited peak temperatures of a reasonable 36°C in the more northerly stretch around Kelowna. Conversely, in the southernmost subregion of Osoyoos, Moon Curser reported temperatures reaching 41°C and at the nearby Osoyoos-Larose estate, the mercury hit 44°C.

‘The heat in August ‘blocked’ version, and so some varieties only finished veraison beginning of September,’ states winemaker and COO Michael Kullmann.

With late veraison throughout the valley, the true saving grace of the vintage was the long, warm, sunny autumn. Daytime temperatures of 25°C persisted well into October.

‘We were still in shorts on 19 October,’ recalls Severine Pinte, winemaker for Le Vieux Pin and La Stella.

At Blue Mountain, Matt Mavety emphasises the importance of timing. ‘The reduced day length and the cooler night temperatures allowed a slower ripening of the fruit, thus maximising the flavour profiles,’ he says.

A sense of reprieve

The other crucial element is that the Okanagan Valley saw little to no smoke from forest fires in 2022, thus avoiding problems with smoke taint. Furthermore, issues with localised early-season hail, powdery mildew and damage from leaf hoppers were largely kept at bay.

The overall fruit quality was excellent, with clean, healthy grapes leading up to harvest. ‘The real challenge was not stuffing the vintage up,’ declares Shane Munn at Martin’s Lane.

For most, it was an abundant and late harvest. Garron Elmes at Lake Breeze in Naramata estimates seven to 10 days later than average. At Mission Hill, winemaker Taylor Whelan reports a start date of September 15th – a full month later than the scorching 2021 vintage with 20 to 25% more crop.

On the contrary, in Okanagan Falls, Alan Dickinson says that 2022 wasn’t any later than usual for Synchromesh.

‘I tried to react to heavier crop loads early in the season by dropping fruit and reducing berry size through less irrigation.’

White varieties and Pinot Noir were picked through to mid-October, with growers keeping later ripening varieties on the vine even as temperatures began to plummet. There were logistical challenges as grapes ripened at the same time.

‘All varieties achieved ripeness by a hair’s breadth,’ says winemaker Kathy Malone at Hillside in Naramata. ‘It snowed right after the last pick of Cab Sauvignon on 7 November.’

Late harvest

In Osoyoos, Justin Hall at Nk’Mip had to machine-pick Syrah in -2°C temperatures to get it off before snow on 3 November. Other estates left grapes on the vine well into November, with Hester Creek finishing up with Cabernet Franc on 1 December.

While most of the valley dealt with a bumper crop, the situation in North Okanagan was another story. A severe cold snap in December 2021 caused significant bud damage, resulting in a short crop.

In Lake Country, O’Rourke Peak Cellar saw a 30 to 40% loss, according to former winemaker Nikki Calloway. ‘Chardonnay and Gruner Veltliner were the most impacted,’ she notes.

In East Kelowna, Tantalus brought in only half of their targeted crop, and further from the moderating effect of the lake, SpearHead was down 80% in the estate’s home vineyard.

‘The small crop that did exist ended up being a little more concentrated and riper than a usual vintage,’ says Stanley.

2022: Michaela’s take on the vintage

My first encounter with 2022 was in the spring of 2023. Straightforward aromatic whites were among the earliest releases and showed pure flavours with lovely fruit intensity, vibrant acidity and alcohol kept in check.

Over the last few months, the valley’s more serious whites have been released, and reds are trickling out. Between judging at the National Wine Awards of Canada and tasting at my home office, I sampled over 200 wines, mostly blind, supplemented by visits to wineries in mid-August.

With a high level of quality across styles, grape varieties, subregions and price points, 2022 is unequivocally an exciting vintage demonstrating the diversity and potential of the valley.

That said, not all the 2022s are necessarily better than previous vintages. Managing crop levels and picking at the right time were vital. In general, the north and central sub-regions have the edge in 2022 – though plenty of great wines still hail from the south.

Furthermore, British Columbia’s second most important region, the Similkameen Valley, should not be overlooked. Adjacent to Osoyoos, it shares similar climatic conditions yet possesses its own distinct signature. I have included a few of my top picks.

White varieties shine

Representing British Columbia’s third and second most planted whites, respectively, Riesling and Chardonnay are among the vintage’s stars. Typically made dry or off-dry, the Rieslings harness the year’s penetrating fruit with piercing acidity, yielding many cellar-worthy examples.

From the Kelowna area, Tantalus Old Vines and Martin’s Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard are two of my top drops of the entire vintage.

Chardonnay proved its mettle throughout the valley. The wines sport varying degrees of oak but are generally deftly managed, with the best boasting sophistication and a sense of place.

Meyer offers an impressive range across the board, while Cedarcreek’s Platinum bottling from Lake Country throws a well-deserved spotlight on this northern subregion.

The vintage also presents a case for some of Okanagan’s less planted grapes. O’Rourke Peak Cellars and Culmina’s Grüner Veltliners come from opposite ends of the valley but are equally compelling.

Furthermore, the most purposefully hewn white blends are generally more intricate and nuanced than their single varietal counterparts (with Lock & Worth’s superb Semillon a rule-confirming exception).

Particularly successful are those modelled after the Rhône – like Le Vieux Pin’s Ava and Terravista’s Figaro, and Bordeaux – such as Blasted Church Small Blessings.

Compelling red wines

As for the reds, Syrah shone poignantly. Demonstrating the considerable potential for a truly unique expression, the wines combine ripeness with crunchy acidity and well-etched aromas and flavours that evoke the valley’s distinctive flora.

Alas, the devastating freezes of December 2022 and January 2024 resulted in a high percentage of vine death among cold-sensitive Syrah.

At the risk of causing a frenzy, I highly recommend buying abundantly from 2022. Rest assured, there is plenty to explore beyond Nichol’s Old Vines bottling, which received my top billing.

The smoke-free vintage was also particularly kind to Pinot Noir. It exalts gorgeous fruit clarity across various styles and subregions, from Spearhead’s silky, fruit-laden Saddle Block to more firmly structured examples such as 1 Mill Road and Blue Mountain.

In the lighter red vein, Gamay, which BC isn’t particularly renowned for, is likewise worth a look.

Click here for tasting notes and scores of all 2022 Okanagan wines tasted

Some mixed results

Among the Bordeaux varieties I tried, the results were mixed. Burrowing Owl continues to live up to its reputation for Merlot, though unripe or excessively hard tannins mark less successful examples of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at other estates.

A flight of Cabernet Franc was similarly grumpy at first but became more flattering as the wines opened. The Loire-esque Synchromesh and joyfully juicy Ursa Major were immediate standouts.

Additionally, both River Stone and Fox & Archer make a convincing argument for Malbec, a grape on the rise in the Okanagan.

Many of the valley’s most aspirational reds are crafted from Bordeaux varieties and have yet to be released. They will likely need time in the cellar to temper BC’s signature assertive structure.

Quality from top to bottom

Only seven wineries produced Icewine in 2022. Grapes were picked early on in November and December as temperatures dropped quickly and stayed there. Luscious yet balanced, Nk’Mip exhibits pristine quality of fruit.

Finally, the Okanagan’s most sophisticated traditional method sparklers are still ageing on the lees. Based on the lively acidities, depth of flavour and poised alcohol among the still wines, I would be willing to wager on bubbles in 2022.

Despite rumours to the contrary, the Okanagan Valley currently has plenty of wine to sell. However, a short crop in 2023 and a virtually non-existent harvest in 2024 means that 2022 will be the last vintage of any quantity for a while.

Given its breadth of quality, I’d say there has never been a better time to buy BC wine.

Okanagan Valley 2022: 26 of Michaela’s top-scoring wines

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Wine growing areas in Canada’s western province of British Columbia (BC) have been severely impacted by compounding climate change-related crises this past year, including an extended deep freeze last winter, ongoing drought, and widespread wildfires this past summer.

In response, the BC Wine Grape Council (BCWGC) recently commissioned an assessment of the BC wine industry, and it has come to some alarming conclusions. It reported that 29% of BC’s 5,132 vineyard hectares are estimated to have succumbed to winter damage. Another 30% are estimated to suffer from permanent viral disease and require replanting to avoid mass spreading, meaning that up to 3,032ha of vines will need to be replanted. Estimated costs for the replant are between CA$162m and CA$317m.

The BCWGC study urged the Canadian federal and provincial governments to fund the vine renewal programme or face a significant contraction in BC’s wine industry.

‘The challenges facing grape growers and winemakers today are unlike anything we have experienced in the past,’ said BCWGC chair Ross Wise MW. ‘Climate change disasters along with increased incidence of virus and disease pressure are threatening the economic viability of our industry and we need funding in order to combat these major issues.’

The BCWGC study confirmed an earlier Winter Bud Damage Report, which estimated a vineyard crop loss of 54% across the board, resulting in a 20% reduction in vineyard and winery employment (totalling almost 400 lost jobs), a CA$133m decrease in the total revenues of BC vineyards and wineries, and a CA$100m reduction in government tax revenues attributable to BC wine, with further economic impacts on wine tourism-related hospitality and accommodation businesses throughout the province.

Christa-Lee McWatters, the Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) board chair, said, ‘The replant funding outlined in this study is in line with federal and provincial investment seen elsewhere in Canada and is certainly warranted given the significance of the economic impact of BC’s wineries. In 2019 the total economic impact of the BC wine industry was CA$3.75bn with CA$440m in tax revenue alone.’

A WGBC news release noted that in order for the replant programme to be successful, industry stakeholders agreed that specific programme guidelines would be required to ensure the health and vitality of the new plantings.

This news comes in the context of a global drop in wine production, primarily due to extreme weather events. For example, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) recently announced that global wine production is set to fall to its lowest level since 1961 this year, hit by soaring temperatures and extraordinary flooding. Fueling that decline are expected drops of 12% and 14% in output in Italy and Spain, the world’s biggest and third-biggest producers in 2022, respectively.

It’s not all bad news however. Several BC winegrowers note that this shakeup is also a timely opportunity to plant better-adapted grape varieties in more appropriate locations than has been done previously. Winemakers are optimists by nature, so maybe there is a silver lining in this news.

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As the summer season comes to a close and many wineries prepare for harvest, more than 400 active wildfires continue to burn in British Columbia, a handful of which the BC Wildfire Service designates ‘a potential threat to public safety’ in major cities, small towns and the vineyards in between.

Sparked on 15th August, the season’s most destructive wildfire – the McDougall Creek Fire – had the province’s wine industry on its knees. Spreading over 12,000 hectares (30,000 acres), it initially threatened wineries in West Kelowna. Amid the chaos, Quails’ Gate Winery prioritised safety and support. ‘When a fire of this scale and magnitude threatens your community, safety is the first order of business,’ said CEO Tony Stewart. After confirming team members were out of harm’s way, he added, ‘we mobilised our kitchen and operations teams and are incredibly proud to be preparing more than 600 meals a day for firefighters across five local stations.’

Less than two days after it began, gale-force winds saw the fast-moving burn jump the lake and continue spreading towards the Lake Country area, prompting further urgent evacuations and highlighting the pressing need for comprehensive strategies to address the escalating wildfire threat.

‘Wildfire events like what we are currently experiencing in British Columbia are scary and destructive,’ said Erik Fisher, general manager of Lake Country’s O’Rourke Family Estates. ‘Climate change is real, and producing world-class fruit and wines in an exceptional but marginal environment is becoming even more scarce and difficult due to our embattled ecosystem.’

Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) president and CEO Miles Prodan agreed: ‘Vineyards and wineries in British Columbia are facing climate-change-related crises on a scale unlike ever before,’ he said, recalling last winter’s freeze, which resulted in an estimated crop loss of 56%.

Catastrophic wildfire events are becoming a near-annual norm in BC. In 2003, the province’s wine country experienced its most devastating blaze: the Okanagan Mountain Park Fire engulfed nearly 250 homes, forcing 30,000 people out of the area and destroying 25,912 hectares (64,030 acres) of land. That was the year wineries on Kelowna’s eastern and southern slopes banded together, later sharing grapes to get bottles on shelves. It was also the year the term ’smoke taint’ entered many Okanagan vintners’ vernacular. Other recent vintages for which smoke taint has been part of the terroir were 2015 and 2021.

In response to extreme events such as these over the last 20 years, WGBC established the Vineyard Resiliency Task Group, with representatives from many of the industry’s major stakeholder groups – winemakers, grape growers, WGBC, the BC Wine Grape Council, the BC Grapegrowers’ Association and the BC Ministry of Agriculture and Food. The group recommends four priorities:

• Supporting a climate-resilient replant program
• Reviewing the Wines of Marked Quality regulations
• Modernising the industry’s data capabilities
• Expanding the Sustainable Winegrowing BC (SWBC) programme

Six wineries and 15 vineyards are now certified SWBC programme members, including Quails’ Gate. ‘As we learned with our certification, everything we do has to consider the broader impact, not only within our winery footprint but within our broader communities,’ said Stewart. ‘Similarly, the forestry agencies are doing the work to mitigate the risk of forest fires through prudent forest management, controlled burns, etc.’

A WGBC press release states that it is too early to know whether this year’s wildfires will affect the vintage. ‘There remain many unknowns, as exposure doesn’t automatically lead to smoke taint,’ Stewart said.

‘There are only a couple of specific wineries within the active fire area(s) that may have been directly impacted,’ said Prodan. Many others, however, have been impacted by the recently rescinded travel ban and ongoing evacuation orders keeping valuable tourist traffic from visiting.

‘Typically, restrictions are only in place for a few weeks, and in many cases, it’s a matter of sitting out that period and holding firm,’ says Okanagan Crush Pad founder Christine Coletta. In those instances, ‘it helps to have diversified sales channels and a robust online presence’ to ensure business continuity.

While WGBC focuses on bridging the gap between government policies and tangible solutions, actionable mitigation currently falls on the shoulders of winemakers and vintners.

For Coletta’s 130-hectare (320-acre) Summerland property, knowing firefighters focus on saving lives and structures, she said they ‘had to take matters into our own hands.

‘We removed any dead trees or trees that would cause fuel for a fire, installed fire hydrants around the top perimeter where prevailing winds would likely push fire, and invested in pumps and lines. We also have a restored pond on our property that we can pump large volumes of water from. And, of course, we have miles of hose, so we can move water to where we need it.’

As for the Okanagan Crush Pad facility, ‘It’s built of concrete with a metal roof, so we have done what we can to ensure our structure survives as best as it can,’ Coletta added.

The reality of vintage-specific challenges such as wildfires is not new for Stewart of Quails’ Gate, whose family has been farming in the valley for over 60 years. ‘It’s the nature of agriculture,’ he said, ‘and it’s one of the things that makes the world of wine so dynamic and captivating.’

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Discovering Canada’s Similkameen Valley

The quickest way to get to the Similkameen Valley in Canada’s western province of British Columbia is to fly to Penticton then rent a car and drive 30 minutes southwest to Keremeos. But those in the know relish the four-hour, 350km drive up from Vancouver via the scenic Crowsnest Highway. It’s one of the world’s great road trips.

Heading inland from the Pacific coast, Crowsnest Highway (BC Hwy 3) winds up into the Cascade Mountains and through spectacular Manning Provincial Park, then chicanes back down again into the semi-arid southern BC interior. Through the mountains, the highway parallels a fast-flowing stream that eventually broadens out into the majestic Similkameen River, which then tracks the snaking road until reaching the farming town of Keremeos and nearby hamlet of Cawston.

You’ve arrived in the Similkameen Valley, one of Canada’s most exciting wine regions hidden in plain sight. This emerging appellation lies, figuratively and literally, in the shadow of the much larger and more visited Okanagan Valley. Compared to the Okanagan, the Similkameen is blessedly empty of people. It is also stunningly beautiful, with soaring mountains framing the valley floor and vineyards interspersed among the older fruit orchards.

Undiscovered and unspoiled

The valley is arid and sunny, with less precipitation and more sunshine hours than almost any other BC wine region. That, plus the persistent winds that blow down from the surrounding mountains, helps keep the vineyards dry, clean and disease-free. No wonder Cawston is the organic farming capital of Canada.

Another key factor contributing to the exceptional fruit quality is the high diurnal range. While summer daytime temperatures on the valley floor can reach 40ºC, the nights are much cooler, resulting in a longer growing season and higher natural acidity in the grapes.

The region doesn’t yet have a distinctive wine identity, but there are some indicators of terroir affinity emerging. Riesling has planted a serious stake in these stony soils, as has Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon.

From just a couple of wineries a decade ago, there are now 12 cellar doors open to the public (from April to October), stretching 26km from Keremeos almost down to the US border. Most are small-scale and family-owned. For more information, visit Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The Similkameen Valley is a work in progress, but it retains a strong collective pioneering spirit among its farmers and winemakers – and the wine options are growing exponentially. There aren’t the hotels, restaurants and bars visitors might have experienced in other wine regions, but that is all part of the Similkameen’s charm: a relatively undiscovered and unspoiled corner of Canada with a real sense of place and authenticity. Which makes a visit here especially rewarding.

Six Similkameen Valley wineries to visit

Crowsnest Vineyards

In 2018, siblings Anna and Sascha Heinecke took over the reins from their parents at Crowsnest Vineyards, a family-run winery, restaurant and guesthouse. Since then they have pursued a vision of estate-grown, terroir-driven winemaking. They are custodians of some of the oldest vines in the valley, with original blocks of Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot first planted in 1989. With the family’s German heritage, their Riesling is particularly adept, with crisp minerality, balanced acidity and citrus fruit. Open daily in season.

Seven Stones

After Seven Stones founder George Hanson died suddenly in 2021, seasoned winemaker Dwight Sick took charge at this charming winery in the southern Similkameen Valley. Sick believes strongly in sustainable agriculture and practises light-touch winemaking. Visit the underground barrel caves, unique in this region, and enjoy a tasting and picnic on the stunning terrace overlooking the Similkameen River below, while watching raptors hawking the valley. Open daily in season.

Orofino Vineyards

John and Virginia Weber founded Orofino Vineyards in 2001, after moving to the Similkameen Valley from Saskatchewan. Since then they have pioneered micro-terroir winemaking in the valley, creating a suite of ever more impressive wines each reflecting their unique sense of place. Most of their vineyards are on the Cawston Bench, but they’ve also acquired a high-altitude plot in the cooler Olalla Gap off Highway 3A north of Orofino and planted 1.2ha of Cabernet Franc there. While all Orofino’s wines are delicious, don’t miss their single vineyard Rieslings, in particular the Home Vineyard Old Vines. Open daily in season except Tuesdays.

Clos du Soleil

Set against the mountains on the Upper Bench above Keremeos, Clos du Soleil is forging its own vinous path, focused on the classic Bordeaux grape varietals. It’s surprising how well Cabernet Sauvignon does here at 49º North, contributing a distinctive perfumed elegance to the estate’s flagship Signature red blend. Co-owner/winemaker Mike Clark’s Capella white blend (Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc) is no slouch either. Open daily in season, by appointment.

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Owned by the Baessler family, who originally hail from Switzerland, second-generation Charlie and Jesce Baessler’s estate sits next door to Clos du Soleil overlooking Keremeos, with similar microclimatic conditions. The vine rows are planted north-south, which Charlie explains helps with sunlight exposure on these south-facing slopes. From its 12ha of planted grapes, Corcelettes makes around 6,000 cases of wine a year. An outdoor tasting on the upper patio perched above the vineyard is not to be missed. Reservations advised. Open daily in season.

Vanessa Vineyard

Named for the numerous butterflies that owner Suki Sekhon discovered on his first visit to this site – Vanessa is a Greek word for butterfly – Vanessa is one of the newer wineries in Similkameen. The west- and south-facing hillside vineyards and extremely rocky soils make this an ideal site for growing black grapes. The rocks absorb daytime heat, reflecting warmth back during the cool nights, which helps produce complex, intense flavours with notable minerality. Winemaker Howard Soon is a veteran in the BC wine world, and his estate-grown red wines are among the best in the valley. Open Thursday to Monday mid-April to end May, then daily in summer.

My perfect day in the Similkameen Valley

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Klippers Marketplace and Café, where a delicious breakfast of home-baked pastries, granola or fruit smoothies, accompanied by great espresso coffee, awaits. You can also stock up here on fresh organic produce, preserves and juices from the Klippers farm. After breakfast, head down Highway 3 to the southern end of the valley, home to several wineries – including Seven Stones. Or drive over the picturesque Chopaka Bridge to explore the more rural right (west) bank of the river. Just remember that most of this land is the traditional territory of the Lower Similkameen Indian Band, and respect their culture and customs when traversing it.

Lunch and afternoon

Heading back up Highway 3, veer right onto Barcello Road, which hugs the base of the mountains to the east. After 6km, turn off onto Lowe Drive and head to Crowsnest Vineyards for a wine tasting and lunch at the Heinecke’s idyllic restaurant. Choose from house-made charcuterie platters with artisan sourdough breads, fresh salads and vegetables, and seasonal fruits – all grown by local farmers surrounding Crowsnest. After lunch, further winery visits await nearby in Cawston or on the benchlands above Keremeos. Riesling fans should make a beeline for Orofino, while lovers of both red and white Bordeaux blends will already have an appointment booked at Clos du Soleil.

Evening

The standout restaurant for dinner in the Similkameen is Row Fourteen. Yes, it’s located in the 14th row of the Klippensteins’ apple orchard! You can choose either the Herbivore or Locavore Harvest Menus, or order à la carte. Using all locally grown or farmed food, meals don’t get any fresher than this.

Your Similkameen Valley address book

Self-catering accommodation

Orofino Vineyards Suites

Two modern, elegantly appointed suites overlook the vineyards of this winery in Cawston. Located above the winery barrel room, the open-plan living/dining/kitchen areas are bright, spacious and lead onto large furnished decks. Kitchens are fully equipped to make great meals.

Similkameen Wild Resort Hotel

The closest thing to a resort hotel in the Similkameen. It’s located in the far south end of the valley so is quite isolated, but has a beautiful wilderness setting near the river and an outdoor swimming pool – a rarity in these parts. Accommodation ranges from mountain view suites with private balconies to a unique glamping option in two authentic indigenous tepees, one of which has a soaker tub. A continental breakfast is included.

Klippers Guest Suites

Surrounded by an apple orchard, this two-storey building has two ground-level and two upper-level suites, all with three bedrooms. All suites have well-equipped modern kitchens and dining/living areas, and outdoor decks or patios with barbeques. A short walk to Row Fourteen restaurant (see below).

Restaurants

Row Fourteen

The region’s top-rated restaurant leads the way with brilliant fresh food in an elegant, airy space and large outdoor patio. The restaurant celebrates the region, from farm to vineyard to forest. Great selection of Similkameen Valley wines. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday-Tuesday. Reservations required for dinner.

The Farm Store

More café than restaurant, you can nevertheless have a delicious breakfast here, and they also serve light lunches in summer. Open in season, check hours online.

Crowsnest Vineyards

A charming, casual restaurant attached to the winery of the same name. If weather permits, eat outdoors on the patio beside the vines. Think charcuterie and cheese platters, home-baked sourdough bread, and wine flights. Open for lunch and dinner. Enquire about their outdoor wood-fired pizza nights.

Shopping

Stop off at one or more of the many fruit and vegetable stalls that line the Crowsnest Highway just before Keremeos (the fruit stand capital of Canada) and in Cawston (Canada’s organic farming capital). Load up on delicious seasonal fruits and veggies such as peaches, apples, apricots, garlic, heirloom tomatoes, corn and much more.

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‘Why don’t you grow coconuts?’ This was the taunt Alex Nichol received when he planted Syrah on the Okanagan’s Naramata Bench. They were the first Syrah vines in Canada. It was 1991 and at the time British Columbia counted only 20 wineries, compared to almost 300 today.

For years, Nichol Vineyard remained an anomaly until viticulturist Richard Cleave laid the groundwork for expansion. Cleave, who started working in the Okanagan Valley in the 1970s, was instrumental in transitioning the industry from hybrid grapes to vinifera.

In 1996, when planting his own vineyard, Phantom Creek, Cleave was warned against Syrah. He swiftly accepted the challenge. The vineyard became a source for Sandhill Winery’s Small Lots program and gained renown through bottlings from winemaker Howard Soon. Cleave went on to establish Syrah vineyards for notable producers like Burrowing Owl, Mission Hill and Jackson-Triggs.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 15 top British Columbia Syrah wines

Today, Syrah deserves its reputation as one of British Columbia’s most exciting varieties. However, it represents only 9% of planted red grapes – behind Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

With just 223ha of BC’s 4,486ha, Syrah plantings in the province are almost double that of Hermitage in the Rhône, but significantly less than Côte-Rôtie. Most are scattered throughout the southern Okanagan, the province’s main wine zone.

Protected from wet weather by the Coastal Mountain Range, the Okanagan Valley has continental, desert-like conditions. As it sits north of the 49th parallel, the region sees long days in the height of summer. Diurnal swings are dramatic, with temperatures sometimes soaring to more than 40°C in the day and dropping by as much as 30°C at night.

But the growing season is short. ‘We have a month and a half less than the Languedoc, but we are still able to ripen Syrah,’ says Severine Pinte, winemaker at Le Vieux Pin. She cites the sufficient heat, the intense light and the cool nights which preserve natural acidity as the keys to Syrah’s success here.

As the Okanagan stretches north, it becomes progressively cooler. Vineyards flank both sides of the lakes and rivers that string their way up the valley. As Syrah needs heat, it is restricted to the southern reaches, predominantly on east benches and warmer pockets of the western side.

‘The terroir is very important,’ says Cleave. ‘You need everything in your favour.’ Besides a hot, predominantly south- or west-facing site, he looks for dense, coarse, rocky soils and light, quick-draining sand. ‘You can’t have too much clay because you have to control Syrah’s natural vigour.’

Osoyoos and the Okanagan benches

Boasting the Okanagan’s greatest number of growing degree-days, the area of Osoyoos is the epicentre for late-ripening reds. Nestled just above the US border, it is the northern tip of the Sonoran Desert featuring desert brush, rattlesnakes and deep sandy soil.

According to Cleave, the sweet spot is the Black Sage Bench which extends along the eastern bank of the Okanagan River towards the town of Oliver. ‘That is where all of the best Syrahs come from,’ he claims. Renowned wineries such as Black Hills, Burrowing Owl and Phantom Creek are located here.

Across from Black Sage Bench, the Golden Mile Bench is on the west side of the valley. The vineyards enjoy both gentle morning sun and late afternoon shade, making for an overall cooler microclimate. Nevertheless, sites on warm soils of coarse sand and gravel do well with Syrah.

Continuing north, the Skaha Bench and Naramata Bench are on the eastern side of the valley. The vineyards here see an extra two hours of sun compared to vineyards on the west.

Even so, ‘Naramata is the northern limit of where you can ripen Syrah well,’ asserts Lyndsay O’Rourke, owner and winemaker at Tightrope. Achieving desired ripeness can be a struggle in cool years. Appropriate sites are limited to south- and west-facing slopes at higher elevations, where the soil is volcanic granite rather than silty clay.

South into Similkameen

Adjacent to the southern Okanagan Valley, the Similkameen Valley is a separate region of BC. Conditions are similarly arid and hot during the summer, however, as there are no lakes to moderate, the climate is more extreme. Looming mountains throw shade and a fierce wind that picks up in the late afternoon which locals compare to France’s Mistral.

‘Syrah is a star here,’ says John Weber at Orofino. He points specifically to the south- to west-facing upper benches on stony alluvial soil where Syrah can reach a high degree of ripeness. ‘The hallmark of our Syrah is these nice, long, supple tannins.’

Even in the most favourable spots, Syrah is not without challenges. Sensitivity to winter freeze was initially a concern. However Ross Hackworth, who purchased Nichol Vineyard in 2004, doesn’t see this as a Syrah-specific issue. ‘If it is -21°C for a few consecutive days, everything is going to pack it in,’ he declares.

Nevertheless, Syrah plants are dying prematurely. Scientists have identified the problem as Syrah Decline, a condition in which sap flow is disrupted, weakening the vine. ‘We see it in 17- to 18-year-old plants but what dies off is sporadic,’ says Hackworth. He estimates a cumulative loss of 20% to 25% of Nichol’s original 1991 vines.

The illness is linked to clones – and the original two that were available in BC are predisposed. Since then more clones have been approved, though access to quality grapevine material continues to be an issue.

British Columbia Syrah styles

Making Syrah in British Columbia is an expensive proposition. It is BC’s costliest variety, averaging CAD$3,555 per tonne in 2019 ($2,785/€2,460/£2,065). Furthermore, for the grapes to reach full ripeness before temperatures drop, yields must be kept low.

‘Our yields are close to what they would get in Gigondas – about 35hl/ha to 40hl/ha,’ reveals Pinte. ‘Once you reach 60hl/ha, you lack the time to get the grapes to ripen.’

Challenges and prices aside, BC Syrah is gaining traction. The wines harness the intensity of the region with exuberantly pure aromas, lush fruit and bright acidity. In general, they are more enthusiastically fruity and punchier than their French counterparts while less ripe and rich than classic warm-climate Shiraz from, for example, South Africa or Australia’s Barossa Valley.

That said, styles vary due to diverse winemaking approaches. Co-fermentation with Viognier and whole-bunch ferments are popular, and experimentation with amphorae is on the rise. Most age in barrel, ranging from neutral vessels to varying degrees of new wood, while several see a combination of French and American oak.

Vintage variation is equally significant. I recently tried 50 wines mostly from the 2018 and 2019 vintages. Both were challenging years but very different and I’ve selected my top 15 below.

Vintage comparison: 2018 and 2019

Significant forest fires hampered the 2018 growing season – an escalating problem in BC. Where they break out and when during the growing season determine which wines might be affected. Certainly some of the 2018s were suggestive of smoke taint, though Syrah seems to be fairly forgiving and there are plenty of intriguing examples.

Fortunately forest fires did not break out in 2019. Conversely, it was a cool year and unusually wet through September. Nonetheless, warmer sites were not lacking in sugar ripeness. Overall, the wines are quite lean, racy and elegant – some even Northern Rhône-like. Less successful wines imposed too much oak, detracting from the perfume and fruit. The same is true of the 2018s.

All told, I remain convinced of British Columbia’s potential for unique, characterful Syrah that speaks of a specific place. Those brave early adopters have been completely vindicated.

British Columbia Syrah: 15 top wines from Okanagan and Similkameen

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Riesling is grown in all four key wine-producing provinces of Canada: from British Columbia in the west, to Ontario, Québec and Nova Scotia in the east.

Its winter-hearty properties and accomplishment in other cool regions made it a natural choice among intrepid souls who started experimenting with vinifera varieties in here in the 1970s.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ top British Columbia Rieslings

Stretching north from the US border to the 50th parallel, the Okanagan Valley is British Columbia’s principal growing region. While a string of lakes moderates the climate, the growing season is compressed and extreme. Arid, hot summers can reach a scorching 40°C in the day with nights cooling off considerably.

Penetratingly intense flavours – and acidity – defines British Columbia Riesling. Overall, the wines are drier than their Ontario counterparts and several top examples were exhilaratingly dry.

Regional and stylistic differences aside, I also noted that a number of my top picks – from both British Columbia and Eastern Canada – hailed from vines over 25 years of age. They stood out for their depth of flavour and breadth of nuances.

At Tantalus in Kelowna, at the top of the Okanagan Valley, winemaker David Paterson finds that older vines give more weight and dry extract than the younger ones, helping to craft wines with ‘true texture, balance and longevity’. As Canada’s vineyards continue to mature, this bodes well for its Rieslings.

British Columbia Riesling: Michaela Morris’ top wines to buy

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Can the cream of the BC crop stand up against top wines from around the world? Michaela Morris reports...

British Columbia produces a mere drop of the world’s total wine production, and less than 5% of this makes it outside Canada.

Unsurprisingly then, Canada’s westernmost province has done very little benchmarking. That is until 2015, when renowned wine expert and Decanter’s consultant editor, Steven Spurrier paid a visit.

The British Columbia Wine Institute took the opportunity to stage a comparative blind tasting modelled after Spurrier’s legendary Judgement of Paris 1976 tasting, pitting British Columbia Chardonnay and Syrah against international counterparts.

It has since become an annual event with Riesling and Pinot Noir in 2016 followed by Merlot and Pinot Gris in 2017. In these past competitions, both local and international contenders were thoughtfully selected solely by wine consultant and educator, DJ Kearney.

The tasting

For the 2018 edition, Kearney assembled a panel of six seasoned Canadian professionals (myself included) to determine which wines would represent British Columbia. From a blind tasting of 30 traditional method sparkling wines and 99 red Bordeaux blends, we whittled it down to the top six in each category. Kearney did not reveal which wines we had chosen.

For the international opponents, Kearney selected six established benchmarks for each category, at comparable prices and with both a global reputation and successful track record in British Columbia.

Held on 24 October 2018, the competition brought together 37 judges from across Canada, the USA, the UK and Asia. Each rated the 12 wines per category individually, before all scores were averaged for a collective ranking.

Continue reading below

The sparkling wine flight

This was an absolute pleasure, both in the selection process and at the final competition. While it was not surprising that the international wines dominated, it was somewhat shocking that California’s Roederer Estate beat both Veuve Clicquot and Pierre Paillard. The fourth, fifth and sixth positions went to British Columbia contenders.

I was somewhat of an outlier, rating BC’s Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs 2010 as number one. Nevertheless, based on the judges’ general enthusiasm, I’m not alone in my belief that traditional-method sparkling wine is one of the region’s strengths.

The judges’ results

1. Roederer Estate, Brut, Anderson Valley, California, USA NV

2. Veuve Clicquot, Brut, Champagne, France NV

3. Pierre Paillard, Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru XIII, Champagne, France NV

4. Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars, Blanc de Blancs RD, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2010

5. Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery, The One, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2012

6. Sperling Vineyards, Brut Reserve, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2011

7. Graham Beck, Brut Zero, South Africa 2011

8. Tantalus Vineyards, Blanc de Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

9. Segura Viudas, Brut Reserva Heredad, Penedès, Spain NV

10. The View Winery, Pearls Traditional Brut, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2016

11. Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards, Fitz Brut, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

12. Mumm Napa, Brut Prestige, California, USA NV

The Bordeaux blends flight

Red Bordeaux blends are a popular category in British Columbia. Merlot is the most planted grape overall, and Cabernet Sauvignon is third amongst the reds. However, the Okanagan Valley’s compressed growing season, with hot days and cool nights, makes it difficult to achieve balanced sugar and phenolic ripeness. Overtly green tannins sometimes rear their ugly head.

In the selection round, we also came across a number of very extracted, heavily oaked wines. ‘We eliminated these and looked for the more elegant examples,’ my fellow panelist, Rhys Pender MW explained to the judges.

This clearly allowed British Columbia to put its best foot forward: Poplar Grove’s The Legacy 2014 and Laughing Stock Vineyards’ Portfolio 2015 took the top two spots.

Among the international wines, Blackbird’s opulently styled Arise blend from Napa Valley ranked third. While my own preference leaned towards the more restrained Bordeaux, it was in fact the Bordeaux-esque Osoyoos-Larose from British Columbia that gained my top mark.

The judges’ results

1. Poplar Grove Winery, The Legacy, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

2. Laughing Stock Vineyards, Portfolio, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

3. Blackbird, Arise, Napa Valley, California, USA 2015

4. Dominus Estate, Napanook, Napa Valley, California, USA 2014

5. Intersection Estate Winery, Axiom, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

6. Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc, Bordeaux, France 2015

7. CedarCreek Estate Winery, The Last Word, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

8. Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery, Le Grand Vin, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

9. DeLille Cellars, D2, Columbia Valley, Washington State, USA 2013

10. Clos du Soleil Winery, Signature, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

11. Chateau de La Dauphine, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France 2015

12. Chateau d’Armailhac, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 2015

This was the first time that a wine from British Columbia has come first in my personal ranking – not just in one but in both categories. I, like many of my Canadian colleagues, have been tough on our local wines, but clearly they have risen to the challenge on this occassion.

Canada factbox:

Total planting in Canada 12,540ha

Total annual wine production in Canada (VQA or 100% Canadian grapes) 43 million litres

Total plantings in British Columbia 4,249ha

Total annual wine production in BC (VQA or 100% BC grapes) >14 million litres

Most widely planted white varieties in BC Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc

Most widely planted red varieties in BC Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah

Total exports from across Canada <5% of overall production

Michaela’s top-rated wines from the tasting:

We asked Michaela to pick her top six sparking wines and her top six Bordeaux blends

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The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge tasted wine and picked grapes at Mission Hill Winery in British Columbia as part of their tour of Canada...

William and Kate visit Canadian winery

The Duke and Duchess stopped by Mission Hill Winery on the afternoon of 27 September, as part of the Taste of British Columbia Festival.

In the vineyard they tried their hand at picking some Pinot Noir grapes, and at the winery they also got to sample Indian food cooked by chef Vikram Vij.

‘Weather, food, wine: what more could you want?’ said the Duke of Cambridge, according to CTV News in Canada.

The wines served by Mission Hill included the Oculus 2012, a Bordeaux-style blend, and the Perpetua 2012, a single estate Chardonnay.

• READ ALSO: Haut-Brion 1989 uncorked for Chinese president Xi Jinping at Buckingham Palace

‘This Royal Visit will be a defining moment in our history,’ said Mission Hill winery owner, Anthony von Mandl.

‘It will place the Okanagan Valley on the international map as a region producing exceptional quality wines that can stand alongside the best in the world.’

It is not the first time the royal couple have been to a winery on a state visit.

In 2014,they visited Amisfield Winery in Central Otago, New Zealand.

Mission Hill Winery

Mission Hill Winery won the first international trophy for a Canadian wine in the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards. That is equivalent to the platinum best in show award at DWWA 2016.

The Martin’s Lane Pinot Noir 2010, from Okanagan Valley, won the trophy for Pinot Noir under £15.

Last week, Mission Hill announced that it has appointed Ian Morden as its new managing director. Morden previously worked with New Zealand winery Cloudy Bay.

Canadian wines

Canada is traditionally most known for sweet Icewines, but dry wines are growing in popularity.

The country is producing high quality Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.

After visiting British Columbia, Decanter consultant editor Steven Spurrier said, ‘I have seldom encountered such beautiful scenery and such passionate viticulturists and winemakers, while tasting wines of such encouraging quality.’

• Steven Spurrier’s top British Columbia wines

• Exciting wines from Canada to discover

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Decanter's consultant editor visited dozens of vineyards and tasted hundreds of wines in six full days in British Columbia. Here are a few of the best that he picked out...

Steven Spurrier on British Columbia wines

While some European and even New World countries might have a much longer history and grander wines, I have seldom encountered such beautiful scenery and such passionate viticulturists and winemakers, while tasting wines of such encouraging quality.

For me, wine is all about the three Ps: the place, the people and the product. British Columbia wines tick all three boxes with exuberance, elegance and conviction.

Scroll down to see Steven Spurrier’s top wines

Warmer and more arid than Napa Valley, the Okanagan Valley gets nearly two hours more sunlight per day during the peak of the July-August growing season, with great temperature differences between day and night helping to retain freshness.

For my palate, the overall style of British Columbia wines is Old World rather than New World.

British Columbia white wines

Chardonnay is well represented, showing more richness than from the cooler Ontario vineyards around Niagara on Canada’s east coast, but not over-oaked.

Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc show well, with a similarity to Alsace; Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are recognisably varietal, often with added flair; but my long-term bet would be on Riesling, whose floral, lifted yet broad fruit and typical acidity go so well with the local fish dishes.

British Columbia red wines

Among the reds, Pinot Noir stood out for me, with its Burgundian profile, and the Syrah wines – correctly French in name and style – are attracting justified attention.

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are reliable, but Cabernet Franc shows more character, while Petit Verdot and Malbec are playing a strong role in the Bordeaux blends.

Meanwhile, a 2013 Gamay from Blue Mountain was the best I’ve tasted outside Beaujolais.

All the wineries are open to the public and many have restaurants, so, rather like Virginia, more than half the wines are sold direct, with markets in Canada and the US taking most of the rest.

Fewer than 12 estates export to the UK, so the wines below are well worth seeking out.

Steven Spurrier is Decanter’s consulting editor and chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards. His trip to British Columbia was organised with enthusiastic precision by the British Columbia Wine Institute.

Steven’s top BC wines:

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British Columbia wine producer Glenn Fawcett prepared himself for the worst as flames from the recent British Columbia Fire in Okanagan Valley surged across the nearby hillside.

Glen Fawcett, president of Black Hills Estate Winery, and several of his neighbours in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley had a near escape after flames spread quickly.

Dozens of homes were evacuated during the recent British Columbia fire in Okanagan Similkameen district and a state of emergency was declared in Oliver last weekend, where Black Hills Estate is located.

‘We saw a little bit of smoke at 7:30pm and within a couple of hours we thought “oh jeez”, there’s smoke coming out of the hills now,’ Fawcett told Decanter.com. ‘We reported it to the fire service, but the wind picked up and within another hour there was 1,000 acres up in flames.

‘It was just growing, and coming down the valley to vineyards and houses. It looked wildly out of the control and the wind was gusting – too windy for helicopters [to douse flames].’

Photos on social media captured the vast area of hillside on fire.

‘We weren’t sure whether it would cross the valley to our side, so we were packing up all of our valuables. It was absolutely terrifying – we had a front row seat.’

• See also: California fires rage but vineyards safe, says Napa Vintners

Fortunately for Fawcett and many residents, the wind changed and firefighters were able to bring the fire under control. Flames came to within feet of some vineyards in the Golden Mile area south of Oliver, which sits in the middle of Canada’s only official desert.

Local residents and wineries thanked firefighters on Twitter.

Smoke taint is now a concern, Fawcett said, but he believes the strong winds may have – ironically – helped to disperse smoke.

‘We’ve been extremely fortunate,’ Fawcett said, adding the the 2015 wine harvest looks promising after a longer than average growing season. Black Hills Estate specialises in Bordeaux blends.

A BC spokesperson told Decanter.com on Monday this week that, despite tense moments, wineries and vineyards in the area were thought to have survived unscathed.

Former Vincor chief Donald Triggs has launched his new winery, the Culmina Family Estate, in British Columbia's Okanagan.

Culmination: Elaine, Sara and Donald Triggs

Culmina, which is derived from the Latin word culmen, meaning ‘peak’, is situated at the western side of the Okanagan Valley’s Golden Mile Bench and comprises 18ha of well-drained gravel and silt soils atop calcium-rich subsoils.

Culmina’s total vineyard area amounts to 21ha, 12ha of which are expected to produce fruit in 2013. At a top elevation of 595m, Culmina lays claim to being the highest vineyard in Okanagan’s south.

Alain Sutre’s Ertus Consulting of Bordeaux was retained in part to help identify appropriate half-hectare micro-parcels, which are planted at a dense 5000 vines per hectare.

Bordeaux-trained Pascal Madevon, a 10-year veteran of Constellation‘s Osoyoos Larose winery in south Okanagan, oversees both vineyards and winemaking.

The Triggs are members of the British Columbia Wine Grape Council’s Sustainable Practice Committee, and are applying its precepts to Culmina

Culmina’s first release, a 2011 Merlot is expected in August 2013, followed by a Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend called Hypothesis.

Other planted varieties include Petit Verdot and Malbec, which will find their way into future Hypothesis bottlings, Syrah, Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier and what Triggs refers to as their ‘wild card’, Gruner Veltliner.

Initial sales will be limited to British Columbia with Ontario and Quebec targeted for 2015, the US and Pacific Rim countries to follow.

Triggs – who was president and CEO of Canada’s Vincor until its acquisition in 2006 by Constellation Brands – is joined by his wife Elaine and their daughter Sara, who has worked at Australian wineries and elsewhere in British Columbia’s wine trade.

Written by David Furer