Leader: Amy Wislocki, Magazine Editor

Freedom to innovate

I love the mental image of Bo Barrett (See: The Man at Montelena), aged 18, flying over California’s cattle ranches, vineyards and citrus groves with his father Jim, who was looking for an agricultural project to invest in.

And so Chateau Montelena was born, just a few years before its 1973 Chardonnay went on to triumph at the Judgement of Paris. It’s partly due to that victory that Napa is where it is today, firmly part of the fine wine establishment.

And yet, as Montelena president Matt Crafton points out, Napa must remain ‘forward-looking, free to innovate, aspirational’. It’s good to be part of a settled community of wine producers, but the danger of that, he says, is ‘groupthink’.

It’s when winemakers have the confidence to plough a different furrow – even (or especially) in regions where regulations are more restrictive – that the real excitement occurs. Château Latour-Martillac’s new white wine, for example (See Editors' Picks). With winemakers showing such open-mindedness in the most established of wine regions, we owe it to them as wine drinkers to be equally open-minded.

In my glass this month

No danger of those profiled in this month’s feature on nomadic winemakers (See: The Nomads) falling victim to groupthink! Among them is Darren Smith, who as well as making wine writes the occasional feature for Decanter. I went along to meet him when he showed some of his wines in London. His old-vine País from Chile’s Itata (£32 tfwath.com) was so individual, so authentic, and so emblematic of freedom to innovate that every sip thrilled.

Inside Decanter magazine's March 2026 issue

In Focus

Interview: The man at Montelena Fifty years after the Judgement of Paris, Jonathan Cristaldi meets Chateau Montelena’s Bo Barrett

20 top buys... Spring whites at £20 and under David Williams’ high street picks for the new season

Bordeaux 2023 in bottle Having retasted the 2023 clarets, Georgie Hindle offers her thoughts on the vintage, along with 30 top tips

Brunello di Montalcino latest releases Michaela Morris reports on the 2021s and 2020 Riservas

The nomads Marianna Hunt meets four travelling winemakers, and discovers why they’re right to roam

North Adriatic: Wine without borders Miquel Hudin looks at what links Italy, Croatia and Slovenia

Tasting: Disrupting the status quo Everyone perceives wine differently. Tim Hanni MW explains why

Spirits

Distilled Spirits news & cocktails

Rise of the Dirty Martini Alicia Miller on an enduring classic

Food & travel

What to pair with Malaysian food David Sly’s matches for bold flavours

Travel: Central Otago: A wine lover’s guide Ash Bhardwaj visits one of New Zealand’s premier wine regions

Learning

Books etc Sophie Thorpe presents a selection of books about sake

Wine wisdom Expert advice to help you on your ongoing wine journey

Buying guide

Introduction

Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings

Panel tasting: Alsace Grand Cru Riesling Two vintages a decade apart serve up two Exceptional and eight Outstanding wines; 98 wines tasted

Panel tasting: South African red blends Combinations of traditional grape varieties shine; 86 wines tasted

Expert’s choice: Light South American reds Ines Salpico looks beyond the region’s big bruisers

Weekday wines Decanter’s tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink now and priced at £30 or less

Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress

DWWA 2025 Italy for the cellar

Collecting & investing

Marketwatch Auction news and new releases, plus the opportunities offered by Bordeaux’s 2016 vintage

Regulars

Welcome

Writing this month Meet four of the authors who contributed to this issue

News The latest from the wine world

The brief Ideas and inspiration

Andrew Jefford’s column

Guest column Due to climate change, the future of winemaking is white, argues Benjamin Lewin MW

The Ethical Drinker The wine world needs to examine its relationship with water, says Linda Johnson-Bell

On the rack: Daniel Boulud The French chef and restaurateur shares some of his vinous exploits

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Get access to this issue and previous issues dating back to 2013 with the Decanter Premium app

2026 is a great opportunity to venture beyond Montalcino’s best-known names and take a chance on lesser-known properties.

Well stacked with fleshy fruit, ripe girdling tannins and bolstering acidity, the newly released 2021 Brunellos deliver across the entire gamut of price points – you really don’t need to pay top dollar to experience the true pleasure of the vintage.

But if you do want to spend a little bit more, the superstar estates’ classic bottlings are well worth considering too, as many rise to the quality level of their higher-priced vineyard-selection stablemates.

Those from Le Ragnaie, Casanova di Neri and Canalicchio di Sopra over-deliver to such an extent that they more than merit the extra splurge.

‘You really don’t need to pay top dollar to experience the true pleasure of the vintage’.

Perennial picks

Perennial value picks from the region’s southwest include Castelgiocondo and Il Poggione, with Col d’Orcia boasting a particularly impressive showing. Other trusty houses like Talenti and Val di Suga show the elegant side of the vintage.

Castelgiocondo

One of the most widely available Brunellos out there, Castelgiocondo is as satisfying as it is dependable.

Col d’Orcia

Not just a perennial value but a serial over-achiever, with 2021 upping the ante on complexity and ageability. My top value pick.

Il Poggione

Emblematic of the vintage, Il Poggione turns up the volume with heady scents, sumptuous fruit and plush, layered tannins.

Emerging talents

Off the beaten track, I can highly recommend buying the Brunello 2021s from emerging talents like Caprili, La Palazzetta and Patrizia Cencioni – before they become the next icons.

Caprili

With no AdAlberto Riserva on the cards for 2021, this annata bottling incorporates the best of Caprili in 2021.

La Palazzetta

An up-and-coming property, La Palezzetta’s star continues to rise. Best to check it out before prices follow.

Patrizia Cencioni

With equal parts zest, chew and personality, this should charm on any occasion during its decade-plus lifespan.

More smart picks

Canalicchio di Sopra

Once again, Canalicchio’s ‘classic’ Brunello stands shoulder-to-shoulder in quality with the estate’s cru bottlings, while being easier on the wallet.

Carpineto

Possesses plenty of structure and stuffing for ageing – and for the price – making it a smart buy for the cellar.

Talenti

Poised to satiate those seeking elegance, fragrance and immediate gratification.

Val di Suga

One of the vintage’s lighter, finer-framed examples, while still delivering Brunello depth and tension.

Brunello di Montalcino 2021: Michaela’s top value picks

Related articles

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To make a Riserva, or not to make a Riserva was the question in 2020.

With lower quantities overall and good rather than outstanding quality, the vintage was not an obvious contender in my opinion, especially given the character of the wines.

This isn’t to say that the 2020 Brunello Riserva are without merit.

Some I liked very much, though not necessarily more than their annata counterparts. Indeed, they are surprisingly fresh, fragrant and seductive.

It is the immediate accessibility, modest depth of fruit and gracious structure that made me question the potential for the Riserva category.

Split down the middle

When I polled producers last year, they were split almost equally down the middle. Those for, were enthusiastic; those not, were categorically against.

‘I consider 2020 a vintage for long ageing due to the quality of tannins and freshness,’ asserts Daniela Perino at Fuligni, whose Riserva bottling for the wine’s 50th anniversary was truly merited.

For Il Poggione, the Bindocci family was convinced by the balance of structure and elegance that their old-vine Riserva cru Vigna Paganelli demonstrated. Based on the wine, it is impossible to argue with their decision.

Conversely, Katia Nussbaum at San Polino replied with a capital ‘NO’.

Without denigrating the vintage for Brunello, she explained that it didn’t satisfy either of her criteria for Riserva: ‘greatness beyond compare, or mythology’.

She means of the latter a wine with a compelling narrative – like her unbelievable 2017 Riserva, for example.

A matter of taste

Approximately 50 Riservas were available for preview – about half as many as the 2019s last year.

As a set, they magnify the heterogeneity of the 2020 vintage and the diversity of estate philosophies.

In less successful examples, the vintage’s freshness is lost, without sufficient depth or intrigue to replace it. A number are already oxidised, making me seriously question their ageing potential.

Most of the 2020 Riserva are overshadowed by Le Chiuse and Biondi-Santi’s stellar late-release Riservas – 2016 and 2019 respectively – but my top two picks come from the 2020 vintage, from opposite sides of the region characterised by very different terroirs.

Winemaker Leonardo Berti chose to take Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva out of cask after just 36 months to preserve its freshness and fragrance.

Longer, he explains ‘would have compromised the drinkability of this vintage and robbed it of an essential part of its identity.’

Conversely, Il Marroneto’s Riserva saw a full 54 months in wood. ‘I always try to let the wine be perfect using the barrel, not the bottle’, describes Iacopo Mori.

Affectionally nicknamed ‘The Monster’, one particular cask of Madonna delle Grazie revealed a singularity throughout the entire refinement process and the family couldn’t help but bottle it separately.

It is the estate’s second-ever Riserva (the first was the 2013) – and one of the very few 100-point ratings I have ever awarded.

Brunello Riserva: Top buys

2020 is not a vintage I would categorically recommend paying the extra money for Riserva. However, a few are well worth seeking out.

Of the 20 I chose to recommend (plus late releases from Biondi Santi and Le Chiuse), most are ready or almost ready. In general, 10 to 12 years is a safe drinking bet. Just a small handful really demand more time – such as Conti Costanti, Caprili’s AdAlberto, and Lisini.

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With its 14th century fortress and landmark clock tower, the walled medieval town of Montalcino has altered little over the two decades I’ve been roaming its cobblestone streets. Its wine scene, on the other hand, continues to evolve.

Recent changes include an increased allowance for Rosso di Montalcino production and the abolishment of the consorzio’s five-star rating system for Brunello. Most exciting, though, is the rise of a new generation at both historic and younger estates.

These fresh faces are crucial for keeping one of Italy’s benchmark red wines relevant, and they are behind some of my favourite picks from the just-released 2021 vintage.

I visited Montalcino in early September that year. By then, the figurative dust and anxiety surrounding the spring frost had long since settled. The vines had survived the dry, hot summer thanks to a couple of downpours late in the season.

As the sun beat down during my vineyard visits, it still felt like the height of summer – that is, until dusk fell. Those chilly nights fuelled the palpable sense of optimism for the imminent harvest.

2021: Vintage character

Three key elements of the growing season shaped the character of the wines in 2021. First, early April frost resulted in losses upwards of 50% in some pockets. For luckier growers, it simply served as a ‘natural green harvest’.

Next, the summer was hot though not torrid, but more significantly, the lack of precipitation was second only to 2003. Yet as vines were carrying a lighter load, water stress was curbed, particularly with rain arriving just in the nick of time.

The resulting grapes were small and concentrated. Finally, marked diurnal temperatures differences leading up to harvest helped to preserve beautiful acidity and encouraged complex aroma and flavour development.

Over four years later, with wines now in bottle and set for release, producers’ early enthusiasm has developed into widespread appreciation. ‘2021 has the precision of 2016 with the concentration of 2019,’ declares Argiano’s Bernardino Sani. ‘The only risk was to over-concentrate.’

Le Chiuse’s Lorenzo Magnelli concurs. ‘With small berries and lots of skins, it was important to have a light hand to preserve elegance’. For the first time ever, he trialled a ‘reverse saignée’, essentially removing the top 10-centimetre layer of the cap to balance out the ratio with the juice.

2021 was a particularly difficult year for Cupano. Shortly after its vineyards were decimated by frost, owner Lionel Cousin passed away. Nevertheless, his right hand, Andrea Polidoro called it a beautiful vintage. ‘It shows how Sangiovese can taste in a warm, dry year with lots of fruit and energy – which was lacking in 2020.’

He likens it to 2013 but with more layers.

Divergent opinions

At the neighbouring Camigliano estate, winemaker Sergio Cantini recalls a similar frost in 2001, but describes the wines’ character as comparable to 2015. ‘2021 has more finesse of structure though’, he specifies. I tend to agree.

Rising star Tommaso Squarcia at Castello Tricerchi is less bullish. ‘I have to be honest, everyone thinks 2021 is a legendary vintage,’ he states. ‘It is good, but not legendary.’ Between the frost and drought, he points out the similarities with 2017, though admits that 2021 wasn’t as hot.

‘I am happy with our 2021s because they are fresh’, he says, adding that he believes 2022 will be better.

As always, the divergent opinions and experiences reflect Montalcino’s diversity. This has finally been captured by the first-ever vineyard map depicting the heterogenous altitude, exposure and situation of every plot.

The consorzio-led initiative is accompanied by a significant increase of weather stations to give a more comprehensive overview of the growing year while generating more precise data about each specific pocket of vineyards. It should also provide a useful tool for producers as they continue to confront the vagaries of climate.

New faces; New challenges

Movers and shakers

Overall, estates’ classic Brunellos are almost every bit as good as their ‘selection’ counterparts in 2021, even while the latter continues to increase in number. An alternative to Riserva, these selection bottlings typically come from single vineyards, offering a site-specific expression.

Campogiovanni takes this concept to its extreme with its micro-parcel P#327 label. The second release, its 2021 is notable for its energy and tension.

In the case of Lisini’s promising new wine, Poggio Severo is a direct response to the changing climate. ‘After witnessing vines at lower elevations suffering in the increasingly hot and dry summers, we wanted to explore higher elevations,’ explains Ludovica Lisini.

The tiny estate of L’Aietta is an exciting new discovery for me. Here, Francesco Mulinari’s miniscule ‘Alberelli’ bottling (first made in 2019) hails from his original plot of bush vines.

Once traditional in the region, bush vines (also known as alberello) are making a minor comeback. While prized for their resilience in drought conditions, Mulinari points out the drawback: ‘Low hanging fruit makes it easier for even the smallest wild boar to eat’.

Addressing both climate and younger drinkers, Santiago Cinzano Marone from Col d’Orcia unveiled his CMC Lot 1 with the 2019 vintage last year. With the unpredictable weather, he observed that the same single plot does not necessarily excel each vintage.

As such, he defines the project as an itinerant cru. As for the style, ‘it is round rather than austere, made for my generation’, he describes. The 2020 is among a handful of solid late releases included in my recommendations.

Similarly, Giodo has introduced a new label called Prètto. Thirty-five-year-old Bianca Ferrini works with her father Carlo to select lots that exhibit the most immediacy, approachability and vibrancy. It will sell for approximately half the price of the winery’s flagship Brunello.

New labels

Finally, Montalcino also welcomes a couple of new brands. With the 2020 vintage, the Cecchi family launched Aminta, featuring the young Giulia Cecchi at the helm. There has also been much hype around the boutique JG Benda label. 2021 represents the first vintage of Brunello, though the estate declined to provide samples to journalists given the limited quantity.

The vintage reveals no shortage of up and comers. Besides Castello Tricerchi, I was charmed by Valeria Vittori’s lovely wines at Molino di Sant’Antimo in Montalcino’s southeastern extreme.

And nearby La Palazzetta continues to show promise with second-generation winemaker Luca Fanti. I am also keeping an eye on Ruffino’s Greppone Mazzi estate, under the guidance of Alberto Stella since 2024, and Mastrojanni, where Giulia Harri has presided since 2022 – the same year she was awarded Best Young Italian Winemaker by Italian magazine Vinoway.

On the outgoing side, longtime winemaker Cecilia Leoneschi recently announced her departure from Castiglion del Bosco. And after over two decades managing Castello Banfi, Enrico Viglierchio has left for a similar role with Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards, whose Montalcino properties include Podere Brizio and Poggio Landi.

Brunello 2021: Who is it for?

While some examples will be ready to divulge their charms immediately, others will require more time for simmering nuances to bubble to the surface – or in some cases for their power and exuberance to temper. I am more confident in the ageing potential of 2021 than I was with 2020 and currently suggest a window of 10 to 15-plus years.

Top names like Canalicchio di Sopra, Le Chiuse, Le Potazzine, Poggio di Sotto and Salvioni shine in 2021. Le Ragnaie’s Casanovina Montosoli and Pieve Santa Restituta’s Sugarille vie for the vintage’s top wine along with Il Marroneto’s classic Brunello. The latter is the absolute epitome of 2021’s elegant side.

Other wines built along graceful lines are Castello Romitorio, Tassi’s Giuseppe Tassi, Talenti and Val di Suga. For more opulent examples, seek out Camgliano’s Paesaggio Inatteso, Fattoi, La Fiorita, and Argiano’s Vigna del Suolo. Meanwhile, Pietroso and Uccelliera are among the vintage’s brawnier specimens.

As such, 2021 is a vintage that will satisfy the hedonist looking to dive right in as well as the collector who revels in future rewards. In either case, the wines will deliver plenty of bang for the buck.

However – as always – buyers are well advised to read the fine print (aka the reviews), rather than react recklessly to the scores to ensure that their purchases correspond to personal tastes.

Brunello di Montalcino 2021: Michaela’s top picks

All the scores

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In advance of Decanter‘s full report on the new 2021 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino – coming to Decanter Premium in February – I want to provide a brief overview of what Sangiovese fans can look forward to this year – and the wines which impressed me the most.

An event held last November, the 34th edition of ‘Benvenuto Brunello’, brought together preview samples of Brunello di Montalcino 2021, Brunello Riserva 2020, and Rosso di Montalcino reds (2022 and 2023 vintages) from 123 wineries.

To some extent, the 2021 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino surprises with structured yet weightless wines. Furthermore, to the delight of those who love the typicality and character of Brunello expressed with greater immediacy and finesse, the 2021s are ready to be enjoyed now.

Brunello di Montalcino: Factbox

Brunello di Montalcino is Tuscany’s Sangiovese in purezza – while Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano typically blend Sangiovese with other varieties, both local and international, Brunello’s production regulations stipulate 100% Sangiovese. The local clone of the variety is Sangiovese Grosso, aka ‘Brunello’.

Grape: 100% Sangiovese

Ageing: Minimum four years (five years for Riserva), two of which must be in wood.

Surface area: 24,000 hectares, 15% of which is under vine

Denomination: DOC since 1966; in 1980 it became one of Italy’s first DOCGs (along with Barolo and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).

‘A symphony of fragrant aromas’

An expressive vintage, 2021 has an immediate charm. The well defined, perfectly ripe fruit, not being excessively covered by oak, opens in a symphony of fragrant aromas.

The human hand proved vital, as ever, and the attention paid to the vineyards was reflected in the wines, with a decidedly high overall level.

Overall, structures are clearly defined, tannins are firm but well integrated and, in many examples, a compact texture supports vibrant energy and freshness throughout.

Compared to the previous vintage, wines from right across the Montalcino viticultural area have shone in 2021.

Below is a small selection of wines to look out for, including some lesser-known producers as well as top names.

Alessandra’s pick of 2021 Brunellos to look out for:

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A quiet revolution is underway in Montalcino. A reset of vineyard quotas approved at the end of 2024 is destined to dramatically increase the production of Rosso di Montalcino, creating exciting new prospects for what has traditionally been regarded as Montalcino’s second wine.

Rosso di Montalcino is a kind of younger sibling. Like Brunello di Montalcino, it must be made from 100% Sangiovese and its DOC overlaps in toto with that of the DOCG.

Theoretically, yields for Rosso are marginally higher than for the senior wine, at 90 hl/ha as opposed to 80 hl/ha, but in practice yields across the denomination are similar and generally lower.

Notes for 12 excellent expressions of Rosso di Montalcino below

The differences lie in the ageing: Brunello comes out after four years, of which at least two years must be in wood, while Rosso can be released at one year from the vintage, without any requirements for the type of ageing.

The amount of wine which can be produced in a DOC/DOCG zone in Italy is controlled through a vineyard register, which specifies the area allocated to any given denomination.

In the case of Montalcino, up until September 2024, a total of 2,100 hectares were registered for the production of Brunello and less than a quarter of that area, 520ha, to Rosso di Montalcino.

Imbalance

This can be seen as an anomaly. ‘The quality pyramid at Montalcino is untypical’ says the newly-elected president of the producers’ consorzio, Giacomo Bertolomeo, ‘because it is inverted, with the biggest production at the top end of the pyramid and the entry level at the bottom.’

To redress this perceived imbalance, in September last year, the consorzio voted to substantially increase the area allotted to Rosso, adding an extra 352ha to the quota for a total of 872ha.

The consorzio is quick to point out that this increase will not involve any new planting. Rather, there will be a reallocation of existing rights, with vineyards previously registered to other denominations becoming available for the production of Rosso.

This means in theory that a producer can switch from an IGT production to Rosso – although this is the least likely scenario because IGT vineyards are mainly planted to international varieties and hence not available for the production of Rosso – or use vineyards previously allocated to Brunello.

The impact in terms of number of bottles is significant. According to the consorzio’s figures, average annual production of Rosso has hovered around 3.6 million bottles in recent vintages, against the 9 million bottles of Brunello.

Following the opening of the vineyard register, the potential production of Rosso di Montalcino from the 2024 vintage, which is due out in the autumn of this year, will more than double to 7.3 million bottles.

Rosso di Montalcino was originally conceived along the lines of Bordeaux’s second labels; as a way of maintaining the quality of the top cru of the estate by early bottling of parcels of younger vines or less well-sited vineyards, or by declassifying wines which do not come up to standard for long ageing.

An identity of its own

Many producers today reject this ‘deficit’ interpretation. Elisa Sesti from the estate of the same name believes passionately that Rosso di Montalcino ‘is an important expression of the terroir in its own right [which] allows you to put your finger on the pulse of Montalcino’.

Francesco Bufalini from Scopone has the same view. ‘Rosso has an identity of its own, which originates in the vineyard and comes from site selection’.

At Castiglione del Bosco, winemaker Cecilia Leoneschi adopts the same approach, making three single-vineyard Rossos (more than any other producer in Montalcino), each vinified and aged to reflect a specific sense of place.

This policy works for larger properties with vines in different locations. Small estates with single blocks of vineyard, however, often do not have the same options for site selection and in these cases the Rosso comes from a cellar selection.

Luciano Ciolfi at San Lorenzo picks the whole estate at low yields, vinifies all the fruit together, and at the end of the first year of ageing selects barrels ready for early drinking to bottle as Rosso.

Poggio di Sotto, whose Rosso has attained iconic status (and prices to match), follows the same procedure but monitors the lots over a longer period and releases a ‘white label’ Rosso after spending two years in 30hl Slavonian oak casks.

Around 40% of Poggio di Sotto’s total production is dedicated to Rosso, which is one of the highest proportions of any estate at Montalcino.

Communicating terroir

Montalcino is one of the greatest places in the world to grow Sangiovese, but it is limiting to think of Brunello, for all its majestic quality, as the only expression of the terroir.

Rosso di Montalcino is equally capable of communicating the character-defining variations in soils, elevations and topography of the region, but in a way which is immediately accessible.

It is conceived to deliver freshness and fruit aroma on release, with all the vibrant energy of young Sangiovese, but is capable of ageing comfortably over five to six years or more, is decidedly food friendly, affordable – and the good news is that it is due to become much more readily available.

Baudain’s 12 Rosso di Montalcino picks:

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The hottest ticket to be had at this year’s Decanter’s New York Fine Wine Encounter on Saturday 7 June was a seat at the Biondi-Santi masterclass.

Not only did the masterclass sell out in record time, but it had a lengthy waiting list – thanks to the quality of wines on offer and the fact that Biondi-Santi’s director of winemaking and viticulture, Federico Radi, was hosting.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the eight Biondi-Santi masterclass wines

Radi captivated attendees from the start, outlining the rich 160-year-old history of the Biondi-Santi family and its Tenuta Greppo estate in Montalcino, and how tradition and terroir are expressed in the wines.

Biondi-Santi produces three wines, and the masterclass line up took guests through each, from the new-release 2022 Rosso di Montalcino, to a comparison of the 2019 and 2015 vintages of Brunello di Montalcino, and then five vintages of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: 2018, 2004, 1997, 1988 and 1975.

Tradition, innovation, longevity

Few Italian wineries are as revered as Biondi-Santi, not only for the ageability of the wines themselves, but for the founding family’s role in the creation and continued development of this Tuscan denomination.

Radi took guests on a potted history of the estate, starting in 1888, when Ferruccio Biondi-Santi made the first wine labelled Brunello di Montalcino (named for the brown colour of the specific Grosso clone of Sangiovese he identified) and continuing through 1967, when his son Tancredi created the production rules under which the denomination was formed.

Tancredi’s son Franco, whose first vintage as winemaker was 1971, was also an innovator and behind the creation of a proprietary clone of Sangiovese Grosso, called BBS11 (Brunello Biondi-Santi 11), registered in 1978 and arguably key to the estate’s signature style.

The Biondi-Santi style, Radi explained, is conceived with longevity in mind through firm tannic structure and acidity, but also marked by great elegance thanks to a notable freshness combined with fruit sweetness which means they can retain great balance and vibrancy for decades.

Did you know?

In 1994, Franco Biondi-Santi held an epic vertical tasting, opening bottles from 1888 to 1988 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Brunello di Montalcino and show the longevity of the estate’s wines.

Italian wine expert Nicolas Belfrage MW, writing for Decanter, gave a perfect score to the 1891 Riserva – the second Brunello in history after the 1888 Riserva, and then a mere 103 years old. Franco said, for him, 1891 was the vintage against which all later vintages should be measured.

Today there are only two bottles left of the 1891 in La Storica, Biondi-Santi’s wine library, where all historic vintages of its Brunello di Montalcino Riserva are kept.

Wines released from La Storica are dressed with the original label from its vintage, including ‘la lunetta’ – the neck label which carries the number of each bottle – and a handwritten date of its departure from the cellar on the back label.

The three wines

Radi explained that while many people think of Rosso di Montalcino as an entry-level Brunello di Montalcino, it is a complex style in its own right. At Biondi-Santi, the Rossos are made using grapes from the youngest vines and aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months.

The annata Brunellos are only made in the best years from hand-selected grapes from vines up to 25 years of age and (since Radi’s first full vintage in 2019) are fermented in a mix of oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel using indigenous yeasts, before ageing in Slavonian oak barrels for 36 months.

Only made in exceptional vintages, just 42 Brunello Riservas have been produced at Biondi-Santi since 1888. Hand-selected grapes come from estate vines 25 years and older and vinified with indigenous yeasts in Slavonian oak before ageing further for 36 months.

Changes and future strategies

In 2017 Biondi-Santi and Tenuta Greppo were bought by French luxury group EPI, which also owns Champagne houses Charles Heidsieck, Piper Heidsieck and Rare as well as Chianti Classico estate Isole e Olena. Radi was appointed the same year.

Since the first Brunello was made in 1888, only Slavonian oak casks had been used at Il Greppo. Now, with no Biondi-Santi family member at the helm for the first time in its history, the latest Riserva release, the 2018, was vinified in barrel, as well as concrete. Barrels again replaced casks for the maturation.

Radi explained that he and the new team aim to honour the legacy of the Biondi-Santi family by following the ethos of ‘Evolution not Revolution’.

‘It is very important for us to preserve this style that is so classic yet always current – a “new classic”,’ he said.

In addition to the introduction of smaller oak vessels as well as concrete, Radi detailed the team’s ‘four pillars’ strategy for the future:

• Regenerative viticulture – to restore health to the soils

• Parcellisation – prime plots on specific soils identified, enabling micro vinifications

• Old-vine massal selection – 40 different clones identified to improve wine complexity.

• New trellising – to manage global warming

Responding to a question from the floor regarding how climate change might affect the Biondi-Santi style, Radi replied: ‘I see our style as a tightrope walker walking on a wire. It can be disturbed by the climate – rain, winds, very cold or extremely hot – but it wants to hold on.

‘We are its balancing pole,’ Radi said of himself and the other ’sensitive professionals’ in the vineyard and cellar negotiating the vagaries of vintage. ‘We help the style not to fall.’

Radi’s recap

A memorable part of this Decanter masterclass – and one that sparked good discussion – was Federico Radi sharing a few personal descriptors for each of the wines he presented to give attendees a grasp of their structure and nature.

Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino 2022 ‘Crisp and tenacious’

Biondi-Santi, Brunello di Montalcino 2019 ‘Dynamic, balsamic, enticing, floral’

Biondi-Santi, Brunello di Montalcino 2015 ‘Generous, lush, intense’

Biondi-Santi, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino 2018 ‘The lithe dancer’

Biondi-Santi, Riserva La Storica, Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ‘Solid and trustworthy’

Biondi-Santi, Riserva La Storica, Brunello di Montalcino 1997 ‘Sumptuous’

Biondi-Santi, Riserva La Storica, Brunello di Montalcino 1988 ‘Pure elegance’

Biondi-Santi, Riserva La Storica, Brunello di Montalcino 1975 ‘Welcome to the multiverse!’

Biondi-Santi masterclass: Exploring six decades, back to 1975

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When it comes to a distinguished wine like Brunello di Montalcino, value is a relative concept. The challenge in 2020 is finding less expensive examples that deliver the structure and complexity the denomination implies.

As a reminder, value doesn’t simply mean the cheapest price. In this vintage, shelling out just a little bit more might result in a substantial increase in bang-for-your-buck.

Notes and scores for Michaela’s best value Brunello di Montalcino 2020 below

Familiarity

To start, I recommend trusting in familiar names. Dominating the zone’s southwestern quadrant, Montalcino’s medium- to large-sized estates boast production efficiencies as well as ample vineyards at their disposal to deliver consistent quality.

In particular, the latest releases from historic producers such as Argiano, Castelgiocondo, Col d’Orcia and Il Poggione lived up to their track record.

That said, smaller wineries needn’t be overlooked for well-priced gems. Look to less hyped labels. In 2020, post-sharecropping families Caprili and Fattoi, as well as more recently established estates Col di Lamo and Sassodisole, continue to prove their mettle.

While these may not be the highest scoring wines, they represent a sweet spot for affordable and satisfying Brunello di Montalcino.

Buy classic

Overall, the best value tends to be found among estates’ ‘classic’ Brunellos, rather than their selection bottlings which typically command a higher price.

Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020 best value picks:

Argiano

While prices may have gone up in recent years, the notable increase in quality justifies this – and the estate bottling is still relatively affordable.

Il Poggione

With ample parcels to choose from, including some at higher elevations, Il Poggione manages to create a balanced aggregate that still expresses Montalcino’s warm southern reaches.

Frescobaldi, Castelgiocondo

Among Montalcino’s most historic and largest estates, Castelgiocondo remains true to its munificent character despite a change of winemaker.

Col d’Orcia

Under ownership of the Cinzano Marone family since 1973, Col d’Orcia is a leader in research and development while continuing to produce traditional age worthy Brunello. The 2020 is no exception.

Val di Suga

With parcels in diverse pockets of the denomination, Val di Suga provides a sincere panoramic view of the 2020 vintage.

Villa Poggio Salvi

Fresh, perfumed gracious and approachable, Villa Poggio Salvi captures all that should be celebrated about the 2020 vintage at a highly accessible price.

Fattoi

A perennial pick, Fattoi is among my favourite wines of the vintage not just for the exceptional value it represents, but also for its palpable sense of place.

Col di Lamo

Boutique-size winery without exclusive pricing. The focus is on continued improvement which is manifested in the 2020.

Caprili

Giacomo Bartolommei is one of Montalcino’s bright young winemakers with a clear vision of the region’s future. His wines continue to go from strength to strength.

Sassodisole

Under-the-radar producer Roberto Terzuoli worked under Franco Biondi-Santi for several years. He now crafts characterful wines in the less touted area of Torrenieri.

The best value Brunello di Montalcino 2020

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‘Riserva is the first wine I forfeit to make a better Brunello,’ declares Tommaso Cortonesi (Cortonesi). In 2019, he and his colleagues didn’t need to make such sacrifices.

Given the sheer number of bottlings previewed – upwards of 100 – 2019 is unequivocally a Riserva year. Even the most selective producers made a separate Riserva bottling – at Le Potazzine, it was only the estate’s fifth ever. ‘We try not to make Riserva in merely good and regular years,’ explains proprietor Gigliola Giannetti.

At cool heights, she looks to warmer vintages that give more intensity, structure and density. It is among 2019’s Riserva triumphs.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’s selection of the best Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riserva wines

Favourable weather and good yields

While the growing season was very warm, it wasn’t marked by extremes, and the ideal amount of rain fell at opportune moments. ‘Above all, significant diurnal temperature variations allowed for wines with great structure and longevity,’ explains Francesca Bindocci (Tenuta Il Poggione).

Beyond the favourable weather conditions, generous yields meant that producers weren’t hampered by limited quantities.

Of course, there are always exceptions, such as San Polo, that sat 2019 out. ‘We have chosen to favour cooler vintages that yield an elegant, refined expression,’ states winemaker Riccardo Fratton.

And Alessandro Mori (Il Marroneto) opted for 2020 over 2019 to make his second-ever Riserva – but more on that when it is released next year.

The quality of offerings from 2019 restores faith in the Riserva category, which in lesser vintages can feel weary after the additional year of maturation, or barely differentiated from the annata bottlings.

This problem persists in some examples in 2019, however more live up to the true spirit of Riserva.

Read: Brunello di Montalcino 2020: Vintage report and 20 top picks

Worthwhile additions

This is a testament to the producers who have a well defined concept and follow through in the vineyard and cellar. It is particularly admirable that in a warm vintage like 2019, these wines still convey the freshness I prized in the annata bottlings, along with balance and ageability – even after lengthy maturation.

In general, the Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riservas don’t equal the profundity and tension of 2016, the last significant Riserva year. Nevertheless, they reach a fascinating level of opulence with more obvious power than their annata counterparts.

On one end of the spectrum, a velvety plushness is enticingly epitomised by Il Poggione’s Paganelli and Sesta di Sopra, while at the other end Poggio di Sotto and Conti Costanti are built around steely tannins. Then there is Baricci’s Nello, which seems wholly laden with fruit until a complex structure matrix takes hold.

Capanna and Padelletti are more elegantly sculpted yet still decidedly firm. When the pendulum finally rests, it lies perfectly centred on Fuligni.

With ageing potential between 10 and 20 years, the vintage’s many successful Riservas will make worthwhile additions in the cellar alongside the annata – and the top examples are worth the extra price.

Click here to view all Brunello Riserva 2019 wines from Michaela’s report

View all 129 of the wines included in Michaela’s Brunello report, including late-release bottlings

Which Brunello Riserva 2019 should I drink and when?

In terms of ageing, the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019s fall loosely into two categories: those that will be approachable upon release and may be enjoyed anytime over the next decade or so, versus those that demand more time and can be cellared for 15 years, or even longer.

Drink now and over the next 10+ years

Capanna

So securely knit, I’d even bet on this to age into its twenties, if properly stored.

Gianni Brunelli

Champions the enduring qualities of transparency and finesse over sheer power.

Il Palazzone

Brilliantly preserved freshness will continue to illuminate this wine as it gains in maturity.

Fossacolle

Already in a comfortable, mature groove but not ready to call it quits anytime soon.

Cortonesi, La Mannella

Quite simply, the best wine I have tried from this estate – and may keep performing well beyond a decade.

Needs time

Baricci, Nello

A fitting tribute to one of the founders of the Brunello consorzio, this captures the spirit of Riserva.

Fuligni

Exquisitely balanced and promises to remain elegantly poised for decades to come.

Poggio di Sotto

Unequivocally says ‘hands off’ but begs to be revisited in a few years’ time.

Le Potazzine

While almost impossibly embryonic now, it is showing just enough to reassure of a long and lively future.

Sesti, Phenomena

An otherworldly paradox of amplitude and weightlessness. Perhaps timeless as well.

Brunello di Montalcino 2019 Riserva: Michaela’s recommendations, from top-scorers to value picks

Click here to view all Brunello Riserva 2019 wines from Michaela’s report

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A first look at the 2020 Brunello reveals graciously structured, seductive and immediately harmonious wines. The summer was hot and dry with nights cooling in September. Significant rainfall towards the end of the month divided producers in later ripening pockets in terms of who harvested before and who picked after.

A comprehensive overview of the vintage highlights key weather episodes that shaped the wines. Accounts from producers underline the main challenges and how they confronted them. These varying narratives speak to the diversity within the denomination contributing to the different styles that can be expected.

Of the 150 wines tasted, over 80 recommendations represent a curated selection of wines that played to the vintage’s strengths. Hailing from all corners of Montalcino, these range from the tiniest to the most prolific producers and include up-and-comers as well as the most iconic names. A preponderance of estates’ classic Brunellos is supplemented by noteworthy ‘selection’ and single vineyard bottlings.

Besides discovering the top picks of 2020, readers looking to stretch their pennies can consult a list of the best value labels. The coverage also includes a couple of not-to-be-missed late release ‘annata’ (non-Riserva) from 2019.

As for 2019, the combination of favourable weather conditions throughout Montalcino and an abundant crop yielded a generous set of Riserva. The 100 examples previewed were narrowed down to 45, which is the largest number of Riserva recommended by Decanter since the outstanding 2016 vintage. They span a variety of expressions from opulent to more austere by way of the most elegant. Beyond having the profile to support the longer maturation required, all live up to the spirit of the category with the capacity to benefit from further ageing.

Both reports feature guides to which wines to enjoy when, distinguishing earlier to midterm drinking gems from those that promise greater endurance.

The complete reports on 2020 Brunello di Montalcino and 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva with all recommended wines are now available on Decanter Premium. An abbreviated version will appear in the March 2025 issue of Decanter magazine.

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Brunello di Montalcino 2020 vintage rating: 4/5

A hot and dry summer, with nights cooling in September and rain towards the end of the month. Graciously structured, seductive and immediately harmonious wines promise immense pleasure now and over the mid-term.

The global pandemic seems like a ghost of the distant past, yet as I tasted through the newly released 2020 Brunello di Montalcinos, inevitable references to that strange period kept cropping up. Producers welcomed the time it allowed them in the vineyard, regardless of what Mother Nature doled out.

The weather was not extreme, but it was just erratic enough to provoke minor, localised and ongoing challenges which affected some more than others. ‘It wasn’t a simple vintage’, acknowledges Giacomo Neri (Casanova di Neri). Riccardo Campinoti (Le Ragnaie), however, recalls that ‘there weren’t big problems’.

After another dry and mild winter, late March brought some rain and snow. Despite early budding, frost damage was minimal and restricted to lower lying vineyards. The first half of June brought significant downpours, simultaneously replenishing water reserves and lowering temperatures. Conditions were ripe for powdery mildew just as fruit set and berries started to develop. While fairly easy to manage in most spots, it was particularly persistent in the southeastern hamlet of San Polo.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’s 20 top Brunello di Montalcino 2020 recommendations

Summer cauldron

As temperatures rose steadily through July, summer was undeniably hot with negligible precipitation. There were two heatwaves – one beginning at the end of July and another in late August. While both were relatively brief, the first was particularly intense, with ‘temperatures over 35°C, topping out at 39°C’, according to Francesco Ripaccioli (Canalicchio di Sopra).

Harnessing the leaf canopy to shade the grapes and protect them from sunburn was top priority, and is a practice Montalcino growers are now well-versed in.

The other concern was hydric stress, yet at worst this was described as moderate, and by many accounts largely avoided. Lorenzo Maganelli (Le Chiuse) points to the importance of soil management, explaining that by keeping Le Chiuse’s clay-based terrain well-aerated, the vines cope more effectively with heat and drought. ‘Because the plants didn’t go into stress in August, maturation was regular and uniform from bunch to bunch,’ he asserts.

Showers at the beginning of September were unanimously welcomed as they refreshed the vines and lowered temperatures. ‘The first 10 days of September were characterised by warm days and cold nights…excellent for the accumulation of polyphenols and aromas,’ says Sara Rossi (Padelletti). At Luce, in Montalcino’s southwest, winemaker Alessandro Marini concurs: ‘September was hot, but not too hot, with good temperature excursions.’

Conversely, both Salvioni and Salicutti in the southeast recall less marked temperature differences. ‘This is why we find less acidity in the wines’, explains Michela Piccioni (Salicutti). She also describes having to speed up picking to avoid over ripeness.

Picking dilemma

For most, harvest was comparatively early. Depending on location, it progressed from early September through the beginning of October. According to Riccardo Talenti (Talenti), whose vineyards are in the south, deciding when to pick was the most challenging aspect of the year.

‘The choice is to maintain the acidity and pH, so we harvested before achieving perfect phenolic maturity,’ he shares. It is a strategy mirrored at Le Ragnaie and Caprili.

In later-ripening areas, unsettled weather in late September played a determining role. A full 70mm of rain was recorded in the north on the 25th, dividing estates between those that chose to pick before and those that risked waiting.

In the former camp, Pietro Buffi (Baricci) cited sufficient ripeness, preferring not to dilute the grapes. In the latter, Roberto Giannelli (San Filippo) called the decision ‘a game changer’ for quality and style.

‘It allowed us to wait another 10 days to reach optimal phenolic maturity while maintaining a good balance of sugar and acidity’, he declares.

For others, the rain seemed inconsequential. ‘We managed to work well around the rain’, states Katia Nussbaum (San Polino). And Corte Pavone’s Hayo Loacker characterised the harvest as easygoing, noting that ‘we could pick whenever we wanted’.

A healthy crop

Thanks to low disease pressure, grapes came in healthy, although producers with hotter sites did have to contend with some dried berries. ‘Our optical selector was a big help in 2020,’ asserts Neri.

Yet compared to the prolific 2019 vintage, yields were lower, due in part to smaller grapes and bunches. ‘The average berry weight was just one gram, whereas usually the average is 1.5 to 2 grams,’ explains Buffi.

In the cellar, several winemakers mentioned slightly shorter maceration times and gentler extractions to either enhance elegance or balance intrinsic power. Yet others felt that the grapes could manage more assertive handling.

At Argiano, Bernardino Sani’s greatest concern was ensuring the wine didn’t tire during the long maturation in wood. ‘We refined the wine in big casks for the least amount of time possible – 24 months, then moved it to cement which, in my opinion, helps maintain freshness,’ he tells me.

Click here to view all of the wines included in Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020 report

Brunello di Montalcino 2020: A vintage of freshness

Freshness is one of the over-arching characteristics of 2020 and a strength of the vintage. It has been admirably preserved despite the substantial heat accumulation of the growing season.

I was also charmed by the generous aromas, seductiveness and immediate accessibility of the wines. The best description came from Federico Radi (Biondi Santi), who called the wines ‘suave’.

As admirable as these qualities are, in lesser wines this also translates as a superficiality. Specifically, I found several examples lacking fruit depth and structure. Other disappointing examples were simply overripe with hefty alcohol, suggesting that grapes were picked past their prime.

Sadly these miss out on what makes the vintage appealing.

The varying accounts of the vintage speak clearly to the diversity within Montalcino. This is echoed in the glass, where the wines are heterogenous in both quality and style. Beyond location, both picking time and winemaking approach also play an essential role.

Comparisons

2020 is not comparable to vintages of the last century. Instead, it is a curious combination of 2015 and 2018. Some examples are more reminiscent of 2015, a luminous year yielding a voluptuous fruit character. However, 2020 is slightly dialled back, and more radiant in acidity.

With an unexpected gentleness and finer frame, others recalled 2018, though with more substance. There are even similarities with 2019 – namely, the beautiful fragrances and freshness. 2020 doesn’t typically reach the same heights as 2019, which is generally more complete and nuanced, although there are a handful of 2020 wines which do outperform their 2019 counterparts.

Standouts

Among the standouts, Il Marroneto’s Madonna delle Grazie and Conti Costanti reach a rare level of profundity and density of structure. Le Chiuse and Padelletti are more finely framed but not lacking depth.

Though very different styles, Argiano, Luce and Sesti all capture the generous warmth of the southwest while remaining innately juicy. Giodo is one of my top picks for the second year in a row and Fattoi joins the ranks, not just for the sheer value it represents but for its palpable sense of place.

Most wineries came out with selection bottlings in 2020, though some were stronger than others. La Gerla’s La Pieve as well as both Cortonesi’s La Mannella and Vigna Poggiarelli labels proved their merit, while Riccardo Campinoti at Le Ragnaie continues to impress across his range of site-specific Brunellos, not to mention his estate blend.

For consideration, there are also the not-to-be-missed 2019 late releases, Biondi-Santi and Casanova di Neri’s Cerretalto.

Worth buying?

When I asked producers if they will be releasing a 2020 Riserva, they were almost equally divided. Naysayers cited everything from insufficient quantity or not wanting to impoverish the ‘classic’ bottling, to the wine not having persuasive enough Riserva identity or stamina for long ageing. This corroborated my impressions about the vintage.

Not that it isn’t good – but that it isn’t unanimously outstanding. Of course, there are shining exceptions.

The burning question is if 2020 is worth buying. Honestly, price does give me pause, especially for the most easygoing, Rosso-esque examples. As such, I encourage buying selectively and above all, by producer.

I am slightly less bullish about exploring beyond the tried and true in 2020, though there are lesser-known and newer estates like Villa La Prata and Giuseppe Gorelli that deserve attention too.

Which Brunello 2020 should I drink when?

Most 2020s will be ready to drink upon release. Some will be best within the next five to eight years; others over a more leisurely 10 to 12. Only a select few truly need to be tucked away but will reward for upwards of 15 years.

Short-term pleasure

Altesino

Upfront in its attractions and should be enjoyed when all of these are in their exuberant prime.

Banfi

A triple-threat in terms of accessibility; besides drinking delightfully now, it is affordably priced and widely available.

Talenti

Has all the estate’s signature fragrance and texture; just ready to go a bit sooner than usual.

Mid-term appeal

Giuseppe Gorelli

Third vintage is a charm for this new winery. Well-structured for a mid-term stint in the cellar.

Salicutti, Piaggione

Highlights the gracious character of the vintage and should deliver gracefully for the next decade.

Long-term reward

Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova

Actually tempting now but will reveal even more of its intricacies gradually.

Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie

An outlier of the vintage, the 2020 demonstrates greater density and power than its 2019 counterpart.

Brunello di Montalcino: Michaela’s recommendations, from top-scorers to value picks

View all wines from Michaela’s Brunello report

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Known collectively as ‘the three Bs’, Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello di Montalcino are three of Italy’s most renowned wines.

Barolo and Barbaresco, from Piedmont, are made from Nebbiolo grapes and differ in their ageing requirements and location. Brunello di Montalcino, from Tuscany, is made from Sangiovese Grosso and has longer ageing requirements.

In this article we delve deeper into the trio’s differences and also explore winemaking traditions, trends like single vineyard wines and list key producers for each wine.

Of course, it’s purely coincidence that all three begin with the same letter, but it’s a neat way to group these top-tier reds.

Barolo and Barbaresco are both situated close together, in the Langhe area of Piedmont in northwest Italy. Made from the Nebbiolo grape – which is thought to be named after the fog, or ‘nebbia’, a common occurrence in the Langhe hills in the cooler months – the wines are most appreciated for their complex and ethereal aromas and flavours allied to structural tannins.

Brunello di Montalcino is based around the hilltop town of Montalcino, in the Tuscan province of Siena. The wine takes its name from the local term for the grapes grown here: known as ‘Brunello’, it was once thought to be a grape unique to the area but has since been proven to be a biotype of Sangiovese known as Sangiovese Grosso.

Traditionally, Barolo and Barbaresco demanded long cellaring before drinking, but these days many examples are made in a more approachable style.

Barolo

Barolo consists of 11 villages, or ‘communes’ located to the southwest of the regional capital, Alba. The wines must undergo a minimum of 36 months of ageing, including at least 18 months in wooden barrels.

Large barrels made from chestnut or Slavonian oak were traditionally used, until the ‘modernist revolution’ of the 1980s and ’90s introduced French oak barriques and shorter macerations, which some producers favoured.

Today, there is no clear divide between traditionalist and modernist winemakers as there was in the past, and many use a selection of different sized barrels with little or no new oak.

Barolo producers to know: Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, GB Burlotto, Bruno Giacosa, E Pira e Figli

View Decanter’s Barolo wine reviews

Barbaresco

Barbaresco is a smaller zone, focused around four villages (‘communes’) to the northeast of Alba, close to the Tanaro river. The wines are typically more approachable in their youth than Barolo and so minimum ageing is 24 rather than 36 months, with at least nine months in wood stipulated.

Like Barolo, Barbaresco was influenced by the modernist movement but today, producers have assimilated the best of both philosophies to their advantage.

Barbaresco producers to know: Bruno Giacosa, Gaja, Roagna, Ceretto, Produttori del Barbaresco, Oddero

View Decanter’s Barbaresco wine reviews

Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello di Montalcino is an entirely different wine to Barolo and Barbaresco. It’s made from Sangiovese grown around the hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany. Minimum ageing is 48 months, including 24 months in wood.

Compared to the other key Sangiovese areas in Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino typically has more richness and structure than Chianti, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, combined with a ‘Burgundian’ elegance.

Brunello di Montalcino producers to know: Biondi-Santi, Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera, Canalicchio di Sopra, Conti Costanti, Fuligni, Il Marroneto, Le Chiuse, Podere Giodo, Casanova di Neri, Le Potazzine

View Decanter’s Brunello di Montalcino wine reviews

Single-vineyard wines

One significant trend to note is the development of single-vineyard wines. These individual sites have developed ever-greater prominence in Barolo, a trend which is also present in Barbaresco.

The official specification of MGAs (similar to a ‘cru’) in both areas has helped to underline the impact of terroir on the expression of a wine.

Many producers release several different MGA wines from one vintage, as well as a ‘classic’ Barolo made from grapes from several different vineyard sites.

A similar recognition is beginning to happen in Montalcino, and although single-vineyard wines are released by some producers, there has yet to be any official designation of sub-zones or crus.

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The highly regarded Poggio di Sotto estate was founded in 1969 by Piero Palmucci. Palmucci never planted vines, preferring to build up his estate by buying parcels recommended by his consultant, Giulio Gambelli.

In 2011, the Poggio di Sotto estate was bought by Claudio Tipa and integrated into his ColleMassari group of Tuscan properties – Castello ColleMassari in Montecucco, Tenuta San Giorgio in Montalcino, and Grattamacco in Bolgheri.

Poggio di Sotto is located in the commune of Castelnuovo del’Abate, on the southern flanks of the Montalcino zone. Many of the vineyards in this area are low-lying and can suffer from excessive heat in very warm vintages.

However Poggio di Sotto has 20 hectares of mostly south-facing vineyards at an elevation ranging from 200 to 440 metres, giving the wines their complexity as cooler, higher sites are blended with those lower down. The dominant soil type is clay, with bands of sand, gravel, and galestro at various levels.

Scroll down to see scores for eight vintages of Poggio di Sotto

‘An even higher level of consistency and polish’

After acquiring Poggio di Sotto, Tipa began planting up to 180 biotypes of Sangiovese for greater diversity and complexity. The farming of all 25 parcels of vines is organic, and the average age of the vines is just over 20 years.

Selective picking during harvest provides diverse lots for blending after ageing. It’s a costly practice but gives more complex and balanced wines.

The vinification is classic, with fermentation in large casks employing indigenous yeasts. Pump overs can continue for up to 45 days and after the malolactic fermentation.

The wine is aged for three to four years in Slavonian oak casks – winemaker Leonardo Berti believes that the use of barriques can standardise the wines and robs them of nuance.

All wines are vinified as though they were destined to become Brunello, but after the second year some wines may be deselected for shorter ageing and bottled as Rosso di Montalcino.

A similar selection is made later, during the ageing process, to determine whether any lots are worthy of being bottled as Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. After bottling, the wines receive further ageing for 12 months before release.

The wines produced by Palmucci were extremely good, but Tipa seems to have brought them to an even higher level of consistency and polish. Prices are eye-watering, but it’s hard to deny that Poggio di Sotto delivers Brunello of the highest quality.

‘Quintessential Brunello’

What singles them out is their remarkable freshness, especially given the vines’ location in one of the hottest sectors of the region.

Berti insists that they pick early, sometimes in late August, to be certain of avoiding any raisining and jamminess. Moreover, they are able to keep alcohol levels relatively low, unlike many of their neighbours, who can often produce wines at around 15% abv.

For me, Poggio di Sotto is quintessential Brunello. The wines aren’t blockbusters, they don’t hammer the drinker with extraction and alcohol, and their elegance and freshness are almost mouthwatering.

They are indisputably in the very top ranks of great Brunello.

Tasting eight vintages of Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino

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Casamonti created the award-winning Antinori winery in the Chianti Classico region, which opened in 2012 after seven years’ construction.

His portfolio also includes ambitious projects in Asia, including a winery in Bà Nà Hills, Vietnam and the Shangri-La Winery in Penglai, China.

Casamonti’s plans for the new Poggio Antico winery were unveiled at a special ceremony in Florence last week. The president of the Tuscany region and the mayor of Montalcino were among the dignitaries that attended the unveiling of his blueprints.

Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro, general manager of Poggio Antico, said the new winery ‘will once again astonish and enhance the splendid territory we call home’.

He added: ‘The collaboration with architect Casamonti was a perfect match, because he understood our needs and crafted a project that is simple yet distinctive, remarkable, and mindful of the environment.’

Casamonti was hailed for creating ‘a cutting-edge winery in the Tuscan heartland’ after Antinori was named The World’s Best Vineyard in 2022.

He is a professor at the Faculty of Architecture in Genoa, but the new Poggio Antico winery represents just his second project in his homeland.

Poggio Antico is a boutique 37ha estate nestled high in the hills of Montalcino, rising more than 500 metres above sea level.

The mountain climate and the proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea ensures that the vineyards enjoy a steady breeze throughout the year, resulting in elegant Sangiovese grapes.

Belgian entrepreneur Marcel Van Poecke bought Poggio Antico for an undisclosed sum via his investment vehicle, Atlas Invest, in 2017.

He has invested heavily in the estate since then. Poggio Antico is preparing to release a new label called Vigna i Poggi 2019, which represents the estate’s first foray into single vineyard wines.

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Critical acclaim has created a buzz around the Brunello di Montalcino 2019 releases not seen since the 2016 vintage, according to early reports from merchants.

‘Brunello enthusiasts will be spoiled for choice,’ said Decanter’s Michaela Morris in her recent Brunello di Montalcino 2019 vintage report.

Davy Żyw, senior buyer at Berry Bros & Rudd, said, ‘2016 was of course a watershed vintage for quality, but also [buyer] demand. Since then, we’ve had two good vintages – with the denser 2017 and the charming 2018, which we have had solid demand for, but not the same success as [with] 2016.

‘Brunello is back on track with 2019; it is a truly attention grabbing vintage.’

Fellow UK merchant Goedhuis & Co began offering Brunello 2019s in mid-February. ‘It’s been a really good start,’ said Charlie Whittington, Tuscany specialist and associate director, private clients.

He said the group had planned a relatively concise campaign, partly to gauge customer demand. ‘We’ve released five or six growers [and] all of those have sold through,’ he said. ‘We’ve got two or three more to come.’

Brunello di Montalcino wines have a strong following in the US, and Andrew McMurray, head of retail and Italian buyer at Zachys Wine & Liquor, also reported high demand for the 2019s.

‘We currently have 85-plus different selections from the vintage and have seen some extremely brisk advance interest, with 5,000-plus bottles already committed to by clients on a pre-arrival basis.’ 

As well as critical acclaim, McMurray said high customer demand was also partly due to Zachys’ long-standing focus on Brunello di Montalcino producers, ‘year-in year-out’, and trips to the region to taste the vintage first-hand. 

‘[The wines] are showing very well at a young age, which reminds me very much of the immense appeal of the 2010 vintage when it first came to the market,’ he added. With some wines still to arrive on shelves, he said he anticipated a ‘second surge’ of buying in the coming months.

Zachys will hold a tasting of Brunello di Montalcino 2019 wines from 25 different producers in New York on 5 April. 

Brunello di Montalcino 2019 release prices

Initial data from Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, suggested some Brunello di Montalcino 2019 release prices have risen year-on-year – but not all. 

Three examples in Liv-ex’s February 2024 Market Report were:

• Poggio di Sotto 2019 | Release price: £1,790 (12x75cl in bond) | Up 17% vs 2018 release
• Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova 2019 | £925 | Up 16%
• Il Poggione 2019 | £320 | Down 8.6%

Liv-ex also said some new releases were more expensive than corresponding wines from the top-rated 2016 vintage, which it said were still widely available on the secondary market.

McMurray said Zachys has seen release prices rise by between 10% and 20% year-on-year for Brunello di Montalcino 2019 wines, depending on the producer and its market context. 

‘For us, it was expected, coming off two [more] challenging vintages in Montalcino combined with overall increased production costs,’ he said. He didn’t expect this to put consumers off, though. ‘They will simply purchase in smaller increments, which we have seen so far.’ 

Despite some evidence of price rises, Goedhuis’ Whittington said, ‘I still feel there is still significant value to be had in Montalcino.’ 

He said more people were looking at Italy amid higher prices elsewhere, such as for Burgundy wines on the secondary market and for some Bordeaux en primeur releases.

Conti Costanti’s Brunello di Montalcino 2019, awarded the full 100 points by Decanter’s Michaela Morris, was £325 (6x75cl in bond) at Goedhuis & Co in the UK. In the US, Zachys offered the wine at $114.99 per bottle (future arrival). 

Berry Bros’ Żyw said the 2019 wines represent a ‘really strong opportunity’ for collectors. 

‘The wines cellar well and offer brilliant value versus other fine wine regions. 2019 is a strong vintage across Italy more broadly, in Barolo and with the SuperTuscans, which also keeps the visibility and demand of 2019 high.’

He added that Brunello 2019 pricing overall ‘remains largely flat with 2018 – despite the superior quality to 2018’.

Fans will have to wait longer for 2019-vintage Brunello di Montalcino Riserva releases.

Some producers work to different timetables, too. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello di Montalcino 2018 was due to make its market debut between mid-March and early April, a spokesperson recently told Decanter.

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Tasting Brunello’s 2018 Riservas alongside new releases from 2019 required a conscious palate recalibration. The good news is that vintage variation – which is genuinely one of the appeals of fine wine – is alive and well in Montalcino.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 top Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018 wines

In 2018, cool temperatures in August and recurring rainfall in the weeks before harvest challenged ripening and yielded thin-skinned grapes. The resulting wines were fine in frame, slim in textures and moderate in concentration.

According to the traditional mindset that a Riserva should possess structure and power requiring long maturation and conferring ageability, 2018 is not an archetypical candidate. For this reason, many producers opted out. Furthermore, there was the risk of impoverishing the annata. ‘I am very happy with my 2018,’ asserts Fabian Schwarz at La Magia. ‘But if I produced a Riserva, I wouldn’t have had the quality.’

Unsurprisingly, there were significantly fewer Riserva compared to the 2015 and 2016 vintages; yet still more than I had anticipated – a similar quantity to 2017.

Certain estates seem to produce a Riserva every vintage, while others are more discerning. Some, like San Polino, chose to release a 2017 but not a 2018; Caprili came out with a 2018 Riserva after skipping 2017. ‘We didn’t produce 2017 due to the excessive concentration,’ explains Giacomo Bartolomei. Along with several of his peers, he referenced the freshness and elegance that set 2018 apart.

Of the three dozen or so that I tasted, I have recommended less than half, eliminating those that presented as ‘over the hill’. In many cases, long ageing in wood dried out the wine, exhausted fruit, or robbed freshness, which was one of the vintage’s attributes.

Alongside the variable 2018 Riserva, Col d’Orcia released a captivating Poggio al Vento from 2016 – surely the greatest vintage of the last decade. It is emblematic of a Riserva and demonstrates why this category exists.

Among those 2018 Riserva I have recommended, a handful spent less time in wood than normal – to the benefit of the wine. Podere Le Ripi, Poggio Antico and Poggio di Sotto are among these examples.

As with the annata releases, the Riservas I liked, I really liked – for their purity of aromas and flavours, and finesse. Similarly, most are accessible now and offer near- to mid-term drinking. Il Palazzone and Camigliano Gualto will be lovely over the next seven to eight years, while Capanna and Castelgiocondo’s Ripe al Convento should persist even longer.

Standouts

There were a few stunning surprises that merit (and will reward) cellaring. Once again, Sesti’s Phenomena topped the chart. San Filippo’s Le Lucére and Corte Pavone’s Vigna Poggio Molino al Vento also proved to be well justified Riservas.

Another standout example came from the under-the-radar Fattoi estate. ‘In our opinion, Riserva should be more complex, persistent and longer-lived than the annata,’ asserts Lucia Fattoi. Indeed, the estate achieved this, and the 2018 represents excellent value in the context of Brunello Riserva.

As 2019 offers so much to choose from, my advice, if you are tempted to go the Riserva route, is to stick exclusively to 2018’s very best.

Michaela’s 20 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018 recommendations:

Plus one late-release 2016

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The strength of the 2019 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is that it proposes wines to drink over a wide range of time.: many are immediately accessible, with earlier-drinking examples ready to enjoy over the next decade.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 15 Brunello wines

Other wines might benefit from further ageing and will ultimately give pleasure over the next 15 years.

Very few are completely untouchable now, but there are those that will definitely blossom slowly. These long-haul wines may be tucked away for 20 years.

Brunello 2019 for early drinking:

Podere Le Ripi, Cielo d’Ulisse

Montalcino’s gentle west-facing slope yields this ripe yet light on its feet and ready to drink biodynamic Brunello.

Corte Pavone

Immediate gratification here means a satisfying mouthful of radiant, perfumed fruit. To drink while waiting for Corte Pavone’s cru bottlings to come round.

Castello Romitorio

Exuberant aromas, succulent juiciness and a graceful physique make this a charmer now. Yet there is sneaky depth and intensity for at least a decade.

Pietroso

From a tiny but promising estate, this gracious Brunello would be even better with duck pappardelle if opened soon.

La Fiorita

With a warm, sunny disposition and lovely liveliness, La Fiorita offers plenty to chew on over the next 10 years.

Brunello 2019 for mid-term drinking

Il Marroneto

While the estate’s Madonna delle Grazie bottling needs time, Il Marroneto’s classic label already divulges the immensity of its pleasures.

Talenti

Another year or two in bottle should smooth out those grippy tannins and allow simmering potential to burst forth.

Mastrojanni, Vigna Schiena d’Asino

As hard as it is to resist now, this will reveal the full range of its complexities for years to come.

San Polino, Helichrysum

A fragrant yet measured expression of Montalcino’s southeast, Helichrysum’s layers and compact tannins will unfold leisurely.

Cortonesi, La Mannella

In Montalcino’s northern sector, La Mannella has been improving steadily over the years. 2019 highlights its elegant yet enduring frame.

Brunello 2019 for the long haul

Baricci, Montosoli

A stunning example from the hallowed hill of Montosoli. It may not be ready yet, but its innate nobility is unquestionable.

Le Ragnaie, Ragnaie VV

One of the vintage’s more backward wines, it stands out for its sinewy silhouette and rare level of gravitas.

Canalicchio di Sopra, Vigna Casaccia

The finest bottling of Vigna Casaccia thus far, 2019 counters its inherent sumptuousness with sophisticated structure and profound nuance.

Le Chiuse

Among the most complete wines of 2019, Le Chiuse boasts depth, drama and intensity with all the fabric for ageing.

Fuligni

One of Montalcino’s historic properties, Fuligni’s 2019 deserves a place in the cellar next to all its predecessors.

Brunello di Montalcino 2019: Michaela’s picks for early, mid-term and long-term drinking

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Brunello di Montalcino 2019 vintage rating: 5/5

A warm vintage without extremes, and rainfall at the optimal intervals. Long ripening and cool nights yielded perfumed wines with ripe tannins. Most are accessible now but possess structure for mid- to long-term ageing.

When I visited Montalcino in November 2023, the recent harvest was still fresh in producers’ minds. Between the non-stop rain in spring, the ongoing menace of peronospora (downy mildew), and hail in mid-August, it was one of the most challenging years the region has seen in decades.

Softening the blow was the 2019 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino, to be released in January 2024. Faces brightened when the conversation turned to this outstanding vintage. Unlike 2023, the growing season was particularly benevolent – to the extent that producers seemed to have little to discuss.

‘When a year is great, there is no need to say anything,’ quips Gigliola Giannetti at Le Potazzine. ‘Everything was as it should be.’

The 2019 vintage explained

Mostly, that is. It should be noted that winter was typical of the current worrying trend – slightly warmer than the norm, with lower-than-average rainfall and little snow to speak of. Only estates at high altitudes, such as Il Palazzone and Poggio Antico, referenced minor flurries.

Nevertheless, a couple of concentrated downpours in January and February did deliver a moderate 70 millimetres of rain, and crucially, temperatures remained sufficiently cool to keep budbreak at bay until early April, sparing growers of late-season frost.

April and May were cool and rainy yet disease pressure remained low, as evidenced by the lack of mushrooms in the forest, according to Alessio Sostegni, winemaker at Poggio Antico. Even though these conditions slowed down the vegetative cycle by a couple of weeks, the succeeding months were more than adequate to bring grapes to full ripeness.

While the summer was characteristically hot and dry, temperature spikes above 35°C were minimal and never prolonged. A solid rainfall (70 millimetres in two days) at the end of July topped up reserves and the modest sprinkling at the end of August was welcome. Two further showers in September – one at the beginning, one mid-month – served to delay harvest, allowing further phenolic ripening and diluting grapes enough to curb alcohol levels.

‘We had the right rain when we needed it, giving the plants the water they required,’ sums up Nicola Vaglini, enologist at Pieve Santa Restituta.

Following normal precipitation patterns, rainy periods were concentrated to a couple of days followed by clement weather. As vineyards dried out quickly, there wasn’t the humidity to encourage fungal disease, which was an issue in 2018.

‘September was beautiful,’ says Andrea Costanti. He describes the days as warm, evenings as windy and nights as cool, leading to a harvest that was neither significantly early nor late. The balmiest corners of the southwest began picking on 10 September. In the north, most producers brought in grapes between the last 10 days of September and the first week of October. Finally, in the highest and coolest areas, harvest lasted until mid-October.

‘The harvest was long, and we did various passages as ripening occurred,’ says Katia Nussbaum at San Polino. At Argiano, CEO and winemaker, Bernardino Sani noted the long ripening period between veraison and maturation, describing the resulting grapes as ‘rich in concentration, fruit and colour’.

View the complete table with all 127 of Michaela’s Brunello 2019 tasting notes and scores

Producers from all corners and altitudes of the zone remarked on the quality of the grapes, which were clean and abundant in polyphenols. ‘It was as if they were painted,’ enthuses Sostegni, saying they barely had to discard any berries. Giacomo Bartolommei at Caprili concurs. ‘All the grapes were excellent, whereas in 2016 we had both high quality and lesser quality grapes.’

2019 was a prolific year. Montalcino’s consortium reports a production of 98,407 hectolitres – by far the highest of the last five years. Generous quantities may be attributed to favourable conditions during flowering, but it is also possible that the vines had finally rebounded after the stress of heat and drought in 2017. While many producers confirm making slightly more wine than average, some others claim they produced less.

For some, green harvesting was essential, ‘to avoid unbalance,’ says Sani. The decision was generally based on the vigour of each vineyard. In his clay-based La Mannella plot in Montalcino’s north, for example, Tommaso Cortonesi dropped fruit from the middle to the end of August, ‘to lighten the plants carrying a load of grapes not optimal for even maturation,’ he explains. Conversely, in his Poggiarelli site on stony Galestro soil in the southeast, he asserts that ‘green harvesting is never necessary.’

Managing quantities was hardly considered difficult, so I questioned if 2019 presented any tribulations. For Vincenzo Abbruzzese at Valdicava, who calls 2019 ‘a fairy-tale vintage with an American ending,’ the only challenge was sacrificing 2018. In that year, he decided just to produce Rosso di Montalcino from early-picked fruit to allow the vines more time to recover from devastating frost damage which occurred in 2017.

2019: ‘A superb vintage’

I remember Andrea Cortonesi at Uccelliera saying that ‘all years have their challenges’ when I spoke with him last year about 2018. Following up this year, he added, ‘a year like 2019 is the exception that proves the rule!’ He did, however, note the weight of responsibility to preserve the quality 2019 bestowed, and foster the best expression of the vintage.

Nevertheless, producers enjoyed a certain freedom in the cellar. Fully mature grapes with thick skins allowed for a return to long macerations for those who favour it. Ripeness of stems also encouraged some to experiment with whole bunches. Essentially, the year did not constrain or obligate winemakers the same way in which 2017 and 2018 did.

The resulting wines were an immense pleasure to taste. After sampling over 170, many at least twice, there is no doubt that 2019 is a superb vintage.

I was struck by the gorgeous and immediate aroma profiles, the ripeness without excess, and the balance of richness with freshness. The 2019 Brunellos do not fatigue the palate and are often stealthy in their power. Emblematic of the vintage, Padelletti and Le Potazzine demonstrate glorious perfumes backed up by substance and structure.

Given the quality in 2019, Brunello enthusiasts will be spoiled for choice. Alas, this doesn’t mean that every wine is exceptional. The most disappointing examples were excessively extracted or, worse, unclean. But these are not indicative of the vintage itself. Others simply came across as rather superficial, somehow echoing the easygoing growing season.

There were no surprises among the highest scoring wines. They hailed from some of the region’s most celebrated estates – Conti Costanti, Le Chiuse, Il Marroneto and Canalicchio di Sopra. Alongside these, Carlo Ferrini emerged with his best-ever vintage of Giodo, included in my top picks. Beyond the upper echelons, 2019 is a vintage to discover some of Montalcino’s lesser-known estates such as Sanlorenzo, La Palazzetta, Fattoi, La Serena and Patrizia Cencioni.

The 2019 vintage also continued the trend of single-vineyard and special selections. Overall, these didn’t diminish estates’ classic Brunello and, in many cases, delivered a step up. Besides new bottlings, 2019 also saw the return of some selections not made since 2016 – most impressively Franco Pacenti’s Rosildo and Valdicava’s Montosoli. By contrast, the Silvio Nardi estate did not deem quality high enough for their Manachiara bottling.

Vintage comparisons

The inevitable desire to compare divided most producers between 2015 and 2016, with Armilla’s Nicola Giannetti describing 2019 as ‘a peculiar combination of the two’. While not as hot as 2015 (particularly in September), 2019 was slightly warmer than 2016. Indeed, some wines tend toward the volume and generosity of 2015, though I find them more precise and fresher. Others recall the elegance of 2016 without the sheer tension and profound depth. They are more immediately expressive and rounder.

There were also references to wines from the 1990s, and particularly 1990 itself. The question is, does 2019 possess the same ageing capacity? The wines of the last century were often stern and austere in their youth but this is not the case with 2019. In fact, most are charming, almost ready to drink at this early stage.

The majority of 2019s possess solid mid-term potential with a projected sweet spot over the next 10 to 15 years. Meanwhile, the very best should age gracefully for upwards of 20.

The strength of the vintage is that the wines will be enjoyable at any stage along the way. And, as they age, they should provide a palpable demonstration of their distinct origin within Montalcino.

Late releases

Amid the profusion of 2019s, a couple of late release 2018s were shown – namely Biondi Santi and Val di Suga’s Spuntali. Alongside the clearly superior 2019 vintage, these two held their own.

Moreover, they provided a reminder that although location was a key factor in 2018, weather conditions leveled the playing field in 2019, with no area favoured over another. ‘It was hard to make bad Brunello in 2019,’ Le Chiuse’s Lorenzo Magnelli declared – and yet, some did. Or at least a disappointing one. In Montalcino, producer still reigns.

Michaela’s top Brunello 2019 picks:

Conti Costanti

A complete, confident and deeply satisfying Brunello of unequivocal breed (100 points)

Giodo

The best vintage yet from Carlo Ferrini’s young estate, it sings eloquently of Montalcino’s south (98 points)

Salicutti, Sorgente

Under new ownership, Salicutti soars with its profound Sorgente bottling (97 points)

Le Potazzine

The epitome of 2019’s charms – heady perfumes, fruit purity and sneaky, seductive structure (97 points)

Franco Pacenti, Rosildo

A captivating vineyard selection from one of the denomination’s under-the-radar producers (94 points)

Brunello di Montalcino 2019: Top scorers

View the complete table with all 127 of Michaela’s Brunello 2019 tasting notes and scores

See all 127 Brunello 2019 tasting notes and scores

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Michaela Morris discovers a 5 out of 5 vintage for Brunello di Montalcino 2019 in which wine lovers will be spoiled for choice.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 127 Brunello di Montalcino 2019 wines that scored 90 points or above.

See also

Brunello di Montalcino 2019 – ‘spoiled for choice’: Full report

One of the best wine bars in Montalcino boasts a large, wall-size shelf housing bottles of Barolo, Amarone and other great reds of Italy and France. Just 10 years ago, it would have been impossible to see anything there but Brunello di Montalcino. The famed Tuscan denomination is evolving under the influence of young generations, gaining wider awareness that informs the production of its own wines of unique character, as well as showing open-mindedness, butting up against the naturally individualistic culture of Italians.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 15 Brunellos to drink, cellar and invest

In the past, this historic hilltown in central-southeast Tuscany – at 250m-600m surrounded by rolling hills and farmland of rare beauty (within the greater Val d’Orcia area, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004) – was famed for a steep and stony soil that was hard to work. This land, once worthless, today changes hands for about €1m per hectare.

Brunello in numbers

Montalcino spans 24,000ha of land, less than 15% planted with vines: 510ha exclusively for Rosso di Montalcino DOC, 2,100ha reserved for Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Government body Valoritalia’s updated data says there were 9.7 million bottles of Brunello released in 2022, of which 93% were annata (vintage) and 7% Riserva; among them, just 3% included the mention of a single vineyard on the bottle.

Rich history

Montalcino has been known for viticulture since the 19th century – the Brunello di Montalcino consorzio relates that ‘the Grapevine Classification Board of Siena issued a report on a particular Brunello di Montalcino that had been aged for 32 years from grapes harvested in 1843.

The report states that the wine was perfectly preserved, displaying its typical qualities, unchanged over time’ – a DNA that has always been focused on longevity. Biondi-Santi’s 1888 Riserva was one of the first celebrated labels of Brunello.

For its centenary in 1988, a few lucky journalists were able to catch a smell of it in one of the top-ups conducted by Franco Biondi Santi.

In 1966 Brunello di Montalcino became a DOC wine, and a year later the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino body was founded. Efforts to market Brunello took off in the 1970s, but the global market was only conquered after 1980 (when the region was elevated to DOCG status), thanks to the growing number of wineries and bottles produced.

The arrival of the American Mariani family in 1978, who invested in Castello Banfi, helped Brunello to catch the eye of international wine lovers. Then Banfi winemaker Ezio Rivella revealed a controversial personality. ‘He visited cellars and suggested all the producers buy chainsaws to cut up the large Slavonian oak botti [casks] and transform them into flowerpots,’ recalls Fabrizio Bindocci, president of the consorzio. Rivella was 50% right: at that time, most of the botti grandi were not properly cleaned or sanitised, imparting faulty qualities to some of the wines.

Rules and styles

Brunello di Montalcino must spend at least two years in wooden barrels and is released onto the market from 1 January of the fifth year after harvest (one additional year is needed for Riserva). ‘In the last 20 years, the region of Brunello has been driven more by the US than the UK,’ notes Brett Fleming, managing director of UK importer Armit Wines. ‘The US styles deemed as the leading examples of Brunello were far darker in colour, bolder in expression and “bigger” wines in their weight expression, whereas in the UK the ethereal, almost Pinot-like styles held the attention of the top critics and buyers,’ he adds. ‘I am unclear whether it was point-chasing, but certainly the resulting wines became more and more “American” in style than true Brunello should be.’

When producing Brunello di Montalcino, Sangiovese is not allowed to be blended with other varieties, either indigenous or international. Traditionally, the main clone is Sangiovese Grosso, so-called because of its big clusters, producing pale and lifted wines, but in the late 1980s the Chianti Classico 2000 project was conceived in the Chianti Classico production area. This resulted in the identification of 239 possible Sangiovese clones, from which 24 were selected and seven eventually approved and entered into the national register of vine varieties. These selected clones became popular in Montalcino, as in Chianti Classico, for their smaller grapes and looser bunches, although in the early 2000s some producers lobbied the Brunello consorzio to introduce international grapes, mostly to satisfy the US market. Luckily, as everyone agrees today, the rules were not changed and the great personality of Brunello was preserved.

In Montalcino, Sangiovese naturally gains volume and structure due to the Mediterranean warm climate. This part of Tuscany is hotter than Chianti Classico, for example, so the wines show a brighter fruit character with more body, more integrated acidity and bigger tannins which are much easier to extract. Montalcino is sheltered by Monte Amiata (a dormant volcano peaking at 1,738m) to the southeast, from which cooling air descends during the summer nights. Coupled with the cooling effect of the forest which surrounds much of the Montalcino vineyard area, the wines gain complexity and freshness.

1. Brunello to drink

There are at least five different styles of Brunello, shaped by the different soils and slopes of Montalcino. If you’re looking for an earlier drinking Brunello di Montalcino, seek out wines made in the warmer southern zone of the denomination. The area around Sant’Angelo Scalo in the region’s southwest (about 100m-200m elevation) is very sandy; the Brunello made here is fruitier and ready to drink sooner, although it can struggle a bit to achieve complexity.

In the southeastern sector, between Sant’Angelo in Colle (444m) and the Orcia river, the wines show generous fruit allied with a classic nutty character, with greater complexity and amazing ripeness of tannins drawing from the combination of calcareous soil and lower levels of rainfall (500mm compared to 700mm on the northern side of the denomination). These are approachable wines yet still ageworthy, as demonstrated by labels such as Il Poggione or Col d’Orcia, both incredibly consistent in older vintages.

Further east, the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate produces Brunello of earthy elegance and graceful power. Again, the wines feature rich fruit, sometimes with a yellow tinge of peach skin instead of pure cherry. Here, calcareous marls alternate with alluvial pebbles. Collosorbo has great vineyards here, as well as Ciacci Piccolomini. These three sub-zones (Sant’Angelo Scalo, Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate) are preferred mostly in cooler vintages, such as 2013, 2018 and 2019. The 2018 vintage in particular produced delicious wines for early drinking, often elegant in style and – if I can be provocative – much closer to the amazing Rosso di Montalcino DOC wines rather than offering Brunello’s typical volume, structure and depth.

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Pianrosso 2019

Villa Le Prata 2019

Il Poggione, 2019

Giodo 2018

Salicutti, Piaggione 2018

2. Brunello to cellar

Northwest of Sant’Angelo in Colle, at 300m-350m, lie Tavernelle and Pieve Santa Restituta, where great estates such as Gaja and Soldera Case Basse are located. Due to nocturnal breezes, a lack of fog, predominantly rocky soils and forest all around, the season lasts consistently longer here, producing perfumed Brunello wines that are velvety, savoury and deep.

Climbing the southeast side of Montalcino hill, dominated by schist soils with high mineral content, you can discover some of the best vineyards of the appellation, giving classic, powerful wines such as those from benchmark Brunello producer Biondi-Santi. The elevation, up to 500m, and the easterly exposure keeps the fruit extremely fresh; cherry and strawberry characters intermingle. The grapes experience slow ripening, so the wines are full of complexity and fully structured, and the acidity is always firm, if not a bit excessive at release, underlining the chalkiness of the tannins when young. Biondi-Santi, Gianni Brunelli and Salicutti are among the acclaimed producers making wine here. It’s recommended to cellar them as they don’t give their best before 10 years after release.

The northern side of Montalcino is even fresher in terms of fruit style, producing wines with redcurrant and pomegranate characters, focused more on elegance than power – but the trade-off is that they are less expressive when young. Limestone is found at altitude close to Montalcino village, while there’s a higher clay presence as you descend down the hill of Canalicchi. Il Marroneto, situated at the peak, is distinctive for the stunning definition and filigree elegance of its wines, while Altesino is a leading producer in terms of hectares and also quality. Montosoli, at the bottom of the slope, is one of Brunello’s most prestigious crus and is a name to look out for on the label.

Gianni Brunelli 2019

San Filippo, Le Lucére 2019

Le Potazzine 2019

Mastrojanni, Schiena d’Asino 2019

Altesino, Montosoli 2019

3. Brunello to invest

The quality and value offered by Brunello di Montalcino should be enough for collectors to get behind the region in the coming years. According to analyst Wine Lister’s Pro data, Biondi-Santi’s Brunello di Montalcino annata, Il Marroneto’s Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie, and Sesti’s Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena Riserva have seen their prices increase steadily over the last two years. Soldera Case Basse has not officially been a Brunello di Montalcino since 2006, but is certainly a top label of the region – now bottled as a Toscana IGT, along with Biondi-Santi it’s one of Montalcino’s most expensive wines.

But not all great Brunello costs hundreds of pounds per bottle, and some of the best can still be had for between £60 and £80, while a few brands achieve prices of £100-£150. These figures are only set to grow in the coming years as their relative value is discovered compared to Bordeaux or Burgundy, for example.

There are other reasons to bet on Brunello. The overall quality of the 2019 vintage, to be released in January 2024, is outstanding; the 2019s have graceful balance more representative of Brunello di Montalcino compared, for example, to 2018. Also the new generation, now at the head of most of Montalcino’s estates, are demanding a fresher style of Brunello. If they can avoid over-lightening the wines – as the previous generation over-concentrated theirs – the new-school Brunellos are capable of perfectly expressing Montalcino’s terroir and Sangiovese’s graceful power.

Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie 2019

Biondi-Santi, Riserva 2016

La Cerbaiola di Salvioni 2015

Soldera Case Basse, Toscana 2015

Poggio di Sotto 2019

Brunello di Montalcino: Fiordelli’s 15 to drink, cellar and invest

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A mosaic of vines, forests, olive trees and winding gravel roads, in Montalcino there’s no such thing as monoculture. But there is one hero grape variety – Sangiovese, and its ability to interpret the land and vintage.

Winemakers in the region play a nourishing role in the variety’s development to become ‘Brunello’, the local name for the Sangiovese Grosso clone. ‘The magic of the job is seeing the work done during the season transformed during harvest,’ explains Alessandro Marini, winemaker at Tenuta Luce.

Winemaking decisions – from fermentation temperature and selection of yeast to size of oak and percentage new – form a part of the final product, but in Montalcino, vintage and Sangiovese’s expression of that year, within its terroir, is what forms the DNA of the finished wine.

Scroll down to see 15 top-scoring Brunello di Montalcino 2018s from DWWA 2023

A challenge for growers, 2018 was cool with rain persisting into June and August, followed by a mild September. ‘At first, I was complaining because I didn’t like the vintage,’ explains San Felice winemaker Leonardo Bellaccini, awarded a Bronze for his Campogiovanni 2018. ‘But in the end I was so pleased. 2018 is the story of the black swan.’

The fresh vintage has created ‘wines which are more feminine and delicate, offering verticality and immediacy that we sometimes don’t have’ says Marini. ‘It’s more on the elegant side than I’m used to for the area, and showing very well now,’ adds Bellaccini, who is currently completing his 40th vintage in Tuscany.

Deemed ‘elegant’ by its winemakers and the Decanter World Wine Awards judges alike, this testing vintage has, at its best, delivered wines of considered and welcoming charm, without the burden of excessive ripeness and sense of fierce structure which sometimes characterised the 2017s.

Below, discover a selection of top-scoring Brunello di Montalcino 2018s, with more to try at awards.decanter.com

Brunello di Montalcino 2018: Awarding elegance

Mastrojanni, Vigna Loreto 2018

Best in Show, 97 points 

POA £ Petersham Cellar

Warm, welcoming scents around a core of ripe plum. The palate is deep, with the plum transmuting into the mellower but less precise fruits of maturity; tannins prominent but well- rounded, and the acidity more buoyant than you might expect from the aromas. Excellent mid-term Brunello. Alcohol 14.5%

Collemattoni 2018

Platinum, 97 points 

POA £ Lea & Sandeman

Haunting notes of black cherry and plum bathed in a smoky, vanilla toast core and complemented by a refreshing seam of acidity. Powdery tannins coat the mouth and persist through to the long, cigar-infuse finish. Alc 15%

Tenuta Luce 2018

Platinum, 97 points 

£92.50 (ib)-£155 Burnett & Herbert, Cru, Maisons Marques et Domaines, Richard Kihl

Delightfully pure damson, cranberry and baked redcurrant fruit which glimmers its way along the palate and infuses nicely with the earthy tannins and warming mocha character. Crisp and lifted towards the end with a bright finish. Alc 15%

Banfi, Vigna Marrucheto 2018

Gold, 96 points 

£84.99 Bon Coeur US$120 Stirling Fine Wines, Winedeals, Zachys

Beguiling black cherry, plum and strawberry fruit suffused with smoky charred oak and almonds with a bracing acidity, ample tannins and a mesmerisingly long finish. Alc 15%

Capanna, Nicco 2018

Gold, 96 points 

capannamontalcino.com

Charismatic aromas of dark forest cherry and leafy earth with a wondrous display of enigmatic oak, which enriches and enfolds beautifully and will enable long ageing. Alc 14.5%

Castiglion del Bosco, Campo del Drago 2018

Gold, 96 points 

castigliondelbosco.com

Powerful black cherry, red berry and earthy floral notes with a succulent underbelly of plum sauce and cola spice. Incredibly youthful and fervent with fine-grained tannins and a salty finish. Alc 14.5%

Val di Suga, Poggio al Granchio 2018

Gold, 96 points 

£61-£70 Amathus Drinks, VinumTerra US$129 Wilson Daniels

Myriad crushed flowers, spiced damson and bramble fruit with a contrasting meaty pancetta note, a surge of earthy tannins and a bitter coffee finish. Alc 14.5%

Banfi, Poggio alle Mura 2018

Gold, 95 points

£54-£88 Hedonism, Majestic, Ocado

A smouldering complexity of dark cherry fruit and aromatic violet florals with a weight of grippy tannins and ample structure, suited for long ageing. Fabulous. Alc 15%

Padelletti 2018

Gold, 95 points 

POA Lea & Sandeman

Stylish rose petal, black cherry and baking spice with a sleek tar note and a drive of youthful and embellishing oak on the firmly structured palate. Alc 14.5%

Pietranera 2018

Gold, 95 points 

US$45-$53 Empire Wine, Gary’s, Sparrow Wine & Liquor, Van Wyck

Heightened ripe red cherry and plum notes on the nose with abundant youthful oak and a smattering of black tar. Densely concentrated wine showing immaculate tannins and a lipsmacking finish. Alc 14.5%

Musico 2018

Silver, 94 points 

musico.pro

Classic, Old World style showing evolved notes of forest floor, game and leather. Long on the finish and well structured for ageing. Alc 14%

Ridolfi 2018

Silver, 94 points 

£40.83 (ib) Corney & Barrow US$45 Saratoga Wine Exchange

Attractive floral aromas supporting red cherry and spice. Moderate concentration with an elegant touch of roasted coffee. Alc 14%

La Togata, Notte di Note 2018

Silver, 93 points 

latogata.com

Floral and fresh fruit on the nose with some cedar wood notes. Grippy tannins and some cocoa notes on the finish. Alc 14.5%

Lisini 2018

Silver, 93 points 

£37.50-£48.17 (ib) Bowes Wine, Crop & Vine, Cru

Strawberry liquorice on the nose with herbal notes. Juicy and refreshing palate, modern in style but promising years ahead. Alc 14%

Tenute Donna Olga, Le Cacce 2018

Silver, 93 points

US$39 Wines from Italy

Black cherry and baked fruit on the nose, drying Earl Grey tannins on the palate with crisp acidity and good length. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2023 results

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I’ve had the ‘decant or not decant’ conversation countless times with wine lovers and industry insiders, and have discovered that most either love or hate these seemingly benign glass containers.

I fall firmly into the hate ’em camp, especially when it comes to decanting old wines. Aged wines are fragile, and after years of being under cork the sudden explosion of oxygen creates the worst possible shock. On impact, the wine loses aromas and flavours that will never be recovered. Decanting is like opening a novel on page 50: you lose the intro and never get the plot.

And if you want to totally destroy an aged wine, double decant it by pouring the wine first into a decanter then back into its original bottle, presumably cleared of sediment. This practice is quite common at restaurants.

I was on the receiving end of this travesty several years ago when I attended a tasting of aged Barolos at a highly esteemed New York City establishment with an award-winning wine list. The line-up included celebrated producers and stellar vintages, spanning 1964 to 1989. I had fond memories of tasting many of the same wines and vintages on other occasions and was excited to revisit them.

But that night all six Barolos were lacklustre, deprived of aromas, flavours and vibrancy. Could this have been due to poor storage by previous owners of the bottles? Yes, it’s possible. But all six? Not likely. Having a lot of experience with older Barolo, I expected a constant evolution of aromas in the glass, ranging from forest floor, tar, dried rose, tobacco and camphor that I usually find in aged Nebbiolo from the best names in outstanding vintages. I also anticipated an array of flavours such as dried cherry, cake spice, dried mint and beyond.

Yet there were none of these sensations or evolution. Not even at the end of the night after the wines would have had ample time to breathe, if that had been the issue. I asked the sommelier when the wines had been opened, and he declared they had been double decanted a few hours beforehand, which explained their vapid state.

So why does anyone decant? Sommeliers and wine lovers tell me they decant aged wines because they’re turned off by the sediment that usually sits at the bottom of bottles. Another reason is because many believe decanting is the best way to aerate wines in a short time frame.

But the risk of ruining a great old vintage outweighs the meagre benefit of avoiding sediment. If sediment is your issue, don’t drink the last ounce or two left in the bottle that would have stayed in the decanter anyway.

It’s worth noting that sediment in aged wine is perfectly normal. As the late Franco Biondi Santi used to say, it was his favourite part of tasting older vintages as it contains all the substances, including colour and flavours, that wines cede over time.

Fine wines made with Nebbiolo and Sangiovese are particularly penalised by decanting. When cultivated in the best sites, both grapes are rich in norisoprenoids. This class of aromatic compounds contributes to a wine’s varietal character, allowing the development of intense aromas in the best Barolos, Barbarescos and Brunellos that evolve throughout the years. These wines need gentle aeration or they lose their enticing aromas.

That’s why, when I pull a wine from our cellar, I uncork it three or four hours ahead of time for gradual, consistent aeration. If I’m at a restaurant, I order the older red right away, and have them uncork it at the table while I sip a young white or bubbles with my starters and first courses.

Would I ever decant a young, robust wine that could hold up to decanting? Nope. For all the same reasons: even with young, sturdy wines, I want the whole story and to watch the wines evolve. It takes time, but I’m never in a rush when it comes to enjoying fine wine.

I’m not the only Don’t Decant Diehard: nearly all Italian winemakers shun decanting, especially for their older bottles. As they say, when in Rome do as the Romans do. And in this case, even when not in Rome.

Based in Italy, Kerin O’Keefe is a wine critic, author and speaker, as well as founder of kerinokeefe.com

What I’ve been drinking

I recently opened the Comm. GB Burlotto, Barolo Acclivi 2012 (£177 Berry Bros & Rudd) and it was absolutely stunning. Made from a selection of the best grapes from the estate’s top vineyards in Verduno, it’s the quintessential expression of the village. It’s fragrant, delicious and loaded with finesse, delivering layers of red berry, menthol and spice. Impeccably balanced and fresh, it’s showing beautifully now but will age for another decade or more.

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One of 2018’s signatures is its approachability. As such, there is plenty of choice for drinking in 2023. In some cases, these represent delightful wines without sufficient structure for ageing and will be best in the near-term to enjoy their radiant freshness.

Other wines have a longer drinking window but are already expressive and showing well. While they may offer more to come, they have that ‘irresistible now’ quality. Cracking them upon release would not be ‘infanticide’ – in fact, this is a satisfying opportunity to try a few bottles to determine if you want to tuck some away. Included in this category is Fuligni, one of my top-rated wines of 2018.

See our score table for all of Michaela’s Brunelo di Montalcino 2018 tasting notes, plus 2017 Riserva & late-release wines

Read Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2018 report

Brunello 2018 to enjoy in 2023

Castello Romitorio 2018 I was just so captivated by the palpable elegance and prettiness of this embodiment of the vintage.

Ciacci Piccolomini, Pianrosso 2018 Not for the long-haul, Pianrosso lays bare all its complex textures and nuances to enjoy now.

Fattoi 2018 A charming and characterful interpretation of the Tavernelle zone with a satisfying chew of yielding tannins.

Fuligni 2018 In top vintages, Fuligni’s wines demand time, however the 2018 is already strikingly demonstrative without sacrificing nobility or longevity.

La Fortuna 2018 One of the vintage’s lovely surprises, La Fortuna’s 2018 reveals why this is a producer to pay attention to.

Pietroso 2018 One of my ‘under-the-radar’ picks last year, Pietroso has followed up with another success.

Poggio Antico 2018 Under new ownership as of 2017, this high-altitude estate is on the rise with a candid 2018 hinting at what is to come.

San Guglielmo 2018 It is worth checking out this new, up-and-coming estate in its nascent years.

Sesti 2018 There’s something to be said for immediate gratification when a wine is this effusively delicious from the get-go.

Val di Suga 2018 For those who appreciate a lightness of touch, catch this slender beauty while it possesses all its youthful charms.

Tasting notes and scores for 10 approachable Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines

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See our score table for all of Michaela’s Brunelo di Montalcino 2018 tasting notes, plus 2017 Riserva & late-release wines

Value and Brunello are not necessarily two concepts that go hand in hand, however the price band for the denomination is large and the overall quality is high. This opens the playing field for those ‘entry price’ Brunello to be considered under these terms – think examples under £70 that make you feel that your money was well spent, especially after they have been cellared for a few years.

2018 is not the easiest vintage to find those value-for-money Brunello, as quality was variable. Furthermore, it isn’t a vintage that demands long ageing. Nevertheless, a handful stand out as they combine affordability with mid-term potential. Most are stalwarts but there are a couple of rising stars included as well.

Top-value Brunello di Montalcino 2018

Altesino 2018 The estate draws on several vineyards throughout the zone to provide a candid panorama of Montalcino.

Argiano 2018 Under the direction of Bernardino Sani, Argiano has seen significant upgrades in the vineyards and cellar. The results show in the glass.

Casisano 2018 A beautifully genuine expression of place in 2018, Casisano is not trying to be something it isn’t.

Col d’Orcia 2018 Champions of organics, biodynamics and biodiversity, Col d’Orcia make an ageworthy Brunello – even in 2018 – for an accessible price.

Col di Lamo 2018 This under-the-radar producer has been improving steadily and 2018 could be the most characterful vintage so far.

Fattoria dei Barbi 2018 One of the region’s most historic wineries making comfortable, old-school Brunello.

Franco Pacenti 2018 Franco Pacenti coaxed satisfying concentration, structure and personality out of 2018.

Il Palazzone 2018 Showing signature light weight and purity, Il Palazzone did not suffer in 2018. The estate also continues to be a leader in environmental efforts.

Il Poggione 2018 One of Brunello’s largest producers, Il Poggione is far from mainstream – and packs in a lot for the vintage.

Talenti 2018 A perennial over-achiever, regardless of vintage. If I could have a ‘house Brunello’, this would be it.

Best-value Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines: top 10

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See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Read Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino 2018 vintage report

When I arrived at Montalcino’s ‘Benvenuto Brunello’ tastings of the new releases, I was not expecting to taste many Riserva. Sabina Sassetti at Pertimali echoed many of her peers’ reasonings: ‘We only produce Riserva in the best vintages, which generally correspond with those that the consortium awards five stars’ – 2017 was granted four stars.

While the torrid, dry vintage did yield concentrated wines with substantial structure, fully mature flavours and dry tannins did not bode well for lengthy cellaring. ‘2017 isn’t a vintage for ageing; instead, it is for drinking soon,’ concurred Bernardino Sani at Argiano. The focus for many estates was on making the best possible annata Brunello.

Scroll down to see all 17 recommended Riserva and late-release Brunellos

So, it was to my surprise that a generous set of Riserva were on display – 35 in total – yet after tasting through them all, I can honestly say that only a small handful truly distinguished themselves.

For the majority, additional maturation in cask didn’t appear to improve the wines. Nor do they require long ageing – like most of the annata, they are ready to drink now and best over the near-term.That said, the exceptions were gratifying and will reward cellaring. Elisa Sesti seemed as astonished as I was that the estate produced a Riserva. ‘When we tried the wine after three years in barrel, it told us that it needed more time.’

Katia Nussbaum at San Polino was more bullish. ‘2017 was an outrageously good year for us,’ she declared, adding that one particular vat stood out. However, due to the general perception of 2017, she bottled less than one-third of what she could have as Riserva.

Likewise for Ridolfi: Arber Shabani explained that a single cask was clearly superior to the rest, both during fermentation and after 36 months of ageing. ‘The wine expressed a verticality and depth that is typical of Montalcino’s Riservas,’ he stated.

Other Brunello Riserva 2017s worth seeking out are those from Capanna, Fattoi and Poggio Antico.

Late releases

Along with the Riserva, two late release annata 2017s made their debut. With an additional year of bottle age, Salicutti’s Teatro and Lisini’s Ugolaia are among the best of the vintage.

Finally, a handful of Riserva from preceding vintages were unveiled. Biondi-Santi’s 2016 Riserva is as good as the estate’s exceptional annata; Le Potazzine’s release, the 2015 vintage, was the result of lengthy barrel ageing; and Le Chiuse’s 10-year release was a surprisingly muscular 2013 – a fitting conclusion given the comparisons between 2018 and 2013.

Standout Brunello Riserva 2017

Sesti Phenomena An appropriate step up from the estate’s annata, Phenomena is one of the truly ageworthy wines of the vintage.

San Polino An exuberant Riserva that captures both the warmth and dryness of the year yet turns these into maximum pleasure.

Capanna This speaks to the strength of old vines and terroir of Montosoli overcoming a challenging vintage.

Brunello Riserva 2017 & late releases

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Brunello di Montalcino 2018 vintage rating: 3.5/5

Cooler than average with rain throughout and showers close to harvest. Quality and style vary but wines are generally mid-weight with slender structure offering near to midterm ageing. The best are elegant, fresh and expressive.

‘Although location was certainly a factor, the vintage really came down to producer.’

What a difference a year makes! Entering Montalcino’s medieval Sant’Agostino Cloister for Brunello’s annual release, my sense of déjà vu quickly disappeared as I tasted through the 2018s. These wines are nothing like the brawny 2017s – Brunellino (‘little Brunello’) was the expression being bandied around by the Italians.

2018 vintage explained

Conditions in 2018 are described as fresh. ‘Average temperatures were 5°C less than in 2017 and 2°C less than in 2019,’ according to Giacomo Bartolommei at Caprili. And there was no lack of water. Following the prolonged drought of 2017, winter rains and snowfall replenished depleted reserves. Spring was cool and wet, encouraging vigorous vegetation.

Though hot, July did not see extreme temperature peaks. Hailstorms hit the southwest mid-month, with Col d’Orcia and Argiano losing 20% and 25% of production respectively. Recurring showers marked the summer. ‘It was like a schedule – every afternoon in August, it rained for half an hour,’ recalled Gigliola Giannetti at Le Potazzine. August was significantly cooler, especially towards the end of the month.

September saw notable diurnal temperature differences, favourable for ripening Sangiovese. However, there were two periods of rain – one at the beginning, the other in the second half of the month which prompted picking.

The vintage’s humidity proved a breeding ground for both downy and powdery mildew and it was vital that producers stayed on top of treatments. ‘Having cover crops in alternating rows made it possible to actually enter the vineyards to apply them,’ noted Caparzo’s Massimo Bracalente. At Le Potazzine, Giannetti counted 17 treatments (using organic products) – five to six more than in 2017.

The once-common practice of de-leafing was revived in earnest, maximising the effects of sun and wind to keep bunches dry. Bunch thinning was also widespread to encourage ripening of the remaining grapes and to curb the spread of rot.

While rain was a leitmotif, it was not uniform throughout Montalcino. Producers with holdings in both the north and south generally noted more intense rainfall in the former. Even then, precipitation patterns were patchy and certain pockets more prone to humidity and rot.

Sara Rossi claimed it wasn’t particularly difficult at Padelletti. ‘We were concerned about mildew but the northern wind dried the grapes well.’ Conversely, Salicutti reported losing production of the estate’s Teatro vineyard, despite working ‘meticulously’.

Timing of the harvest in 2018 was crucial, but there wasn’t a single moment ideal for all. In the warmest corners, picking started around 14 September with harvest continuing through to mid-October. The challenge was balancing phenolic and sugar ripeness against the risk of rot. ‘You had to be brave. On 20th September, there was rain, but our grapes were not ready,’ recounted Tommaso Cortonesi, who waited until 25 September to start picking his northern vineyard.

See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Cellar strategies

Even with strict selections to bring in healthy grapes, the vintage yielded thin-skinned berries requiring gentle handling. Strategies included lower fermentation temperatures, less and shorter pumpovers, as well as brief maceration periods.

‘The consistency of the skins would not have allowed for longer extractions,’ explained Bracalente, who kept macerations between eight to 12 days. Nevertheless, this was not the approach for all. ‘Ours were not significantly shorter than in other years as the skins, while thinner, were very healthy,’ stated Katia Nussbaum at San Polino.

To counter dilution, various winemakers carried out bleeding to increase polyphenol and colour concentration. The gentle character of the wine also persuaded some to reduce oak ageing. ‘We did not want to force the year with too much time in wood,’ explained Elena Pellegrini at Cerbaia.

Le Ragnaie’s Riccardo Campinotti bottled 2018 at the same time as his 2017s to maintain freshness. For similar reasons, Cecilia Leoneschi at Castiglion del Bosco opted for less racking during cask ageing. ‘In a year like 2018, this was fundamental,’ she declared.

Brunello 2018 for the cellar

San Filippo, La Lucère One of my top wines of the vintage, La Lucère has reached an extraordinary level of elegance without sacrificing substance and structure for ageing.

Castiglione del Bosco, Campo del Drago A rather brooding 2018, it is one of the few examples that will need a couple of years before it starts to unfold.

Cortonesi, Poggiarelli An impressive vintage for this bottling, Poggiarelli is among the most structured 2018s.

Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille While not as dense and powerful as in other vintages, the 2018 Sugarille is still built to last.

Le Ragnaie, Casanovina Montosoli Closed and still relatively rigid and austere but with tons of promise.

Variable

When I tasted over 160 Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines in November 2022, some were still shocked from recent bottling. Nevertheless, it was clear that style and quality varied considerably. The range was almost perplexing – from waif-like to midweight and more structured, as well as those that presented as if from a hot vintage, with overt ripeness and alcohol pushing 15.5%.

‘A lot depended on the moment of harvest and the style of vinification,’ explained Maurizio Castelli, who consults for several estates in Montalcino.

Read more of Michaela’s Brunello di Montalcino report 2023

Brunello Riserva 2017 & late releases: 17 wines to buy

Top-value Brunello di Montalcino 2018: the 10 to buy

The vintage’s least successful wines were already fully evolved and tired, over-extracted, or smothered slender fruit in excessive oak. A few exhibited distracting levels of volatile acidity – beyond just lifting aromas.

Variability aside, a critical mass offers a genuine and compelling portrayal of the vintage. Fine-framed structures balance slim textures and moderate concentration. The best are not lacking in purity of aromas and flavours. – they emphasise Sangiovese’s glorious lightness of being.

Concluding thoughts

Though 2018 has neither the sumptuousness of 2015 nor the profound depth of 2016, it is much more elegant than 2017. Comparisons with 2013 were common during the tastings. Despite climatic similarities, I find 2018 less rigid than 2013 and I believe the wines will show better earlier in their lifespans.

Some producers likened 2018 to 2008, another cool year which took time to reveal its potential, while others referenced vintages of the ‘80s and ‘90s. Regardless, 2018 is a vintage that should be enjoyed – rather than condemned – for its airiness; especially given that there are plenty of ripe, hot vintages coming down the pipeline.

While 2018 proposes a few fantastic wines to tuck away, it is not a vintage to seek out for long ageing. Most wines will be accessible immediately and be at their best within the next 10 to 12 years.

We will likely see very few 2018 Riserva, yet most estates came out with their ‘selection’ bottlings. Canalicchio di Sopra, Casanova di Neri and Sesta di Sopra even chose 2018 to release a completely new label. I also noticed a few new wineries – Gorelli and San Guglielmo are two to watch.

In 2018, I particularly appreciate the vintage’s lovely surprises. These include some of my ‘best yet’, such as Canalicchio di Sopra’s classic bottling, Cortonesi’s Poggerelli, San Filippo’s La Lucère, and Talenti’s Piero. Lesser-known estates Pietroso, La Fortuna and Col di Lamo also turned my head.

Although location was certainly a factor, the vintage really came down to producer. It was a challenge to maintain healthy fruit and bring it as close to complete and even ripeness as possible, then extract maximum substance without overdoing it. I applaud those who achieved this balance and were courageous enough to let the nature of the vintage shine through.

Standout Brunello 2018

Canalicchio di Sopra Despite a striking new bottling from Montosoli, it was the estate’s classic Brunello that I was particularly taken with.

Salicutti, Piaggione The third vintage under new ownership, Salicutti’s Piaggione still captures the spirit of former proprietor and founder Francesco Leanza.

Talenti, Piero With gorgeous purity and a deft interplay of concentration and lightness, this could be the best vintage of Piero so far.

Il Marroneto, Madonna delle Grazie Stunningly evocative of place, estate and vintage.

Lisini After tasting a few very mediocre flights, this wine jumped out, demonstrating a profundity and complexity that others lacked.

Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

Michaela’s top Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines: 95 points & above

See our Brunello 2018 & Brunello 2017 Riserva (plus late releases) score table

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Michaela Morris discovers a year full of surprises, including 'best yet' bottlings from some producers in this variable vintage which puts winemaking style first.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all the Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines and 2017 Riserva wines

See also

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 report plus top-scoring wines

Though its quantity remains unchanged, Rosso di Montalcino’s identity is becoming more defined and it seems to be at the centre of a tug of war.

Born in the 1960s as ‘vino rosso dai vigneti di Brunello’ – red wine from the vineyards of Brunello – its potential is based on similarities with its big brother: 100% Sangiovese from the village of Montalcino, planted over some of the oldest soils in the area.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 15 top Rosso di Montalcino wines

Here, the ripening of the high-toned, nervy flagship grape of the region is understated and Rosso di Montalcino can easily achieve complexity, expressing its savoury schisty finish even without ambitious winemaking – its best quality, in my opinion.

One of the main differences between Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino is the ageing. Rosso di Montalcino is shorter; just one year of ageing is required by law, and it can be, in theory, aged without any oak. This is not necessarily bad news for the fresher style sought out today by so many consumers.

Another key characteristic of Rosso is its affordable price, which can at the same time be a limiting factor for producers. ‘We can find very good wines for 15 to 20 Euros, but if too low, the price penalises Rosso di Montalcino,’ states Fabrizio Bindocci, recently re-elected president of Consorzio Montalcino.

With both Rosso and Brunello in high demand, it is inconceivable to increase the quantity of the former at the expense of the latter; it’s simply reflected in the numbers. According to the Consorzio, the production of Rosso di Montalcino currently amounts to four million bottles – less than half of the total quantity of Brunello.

There are only 510 hectares in Montalcino exclusively dedicated to the production of Rosso, but this DOC wine can also be the result of declassified Brunello grapes. ‘Today 40% of Rosso di Montalcino is made using declassified grapes for Brunello,’ says Enrico Viglierchio, CEO of Banfi. ‘Indeed, there is a shortage of Rosso due to the increased market potential of Brunello, but also because it would be unimaginable to produce Rosso with grapes not good enough for the DOCG [Brunello di Montalcino].’

The appellation is discussing the possibility of enlarging the area of land available for Rosso production, but there is nothing official at the moment.

What can be observed instead is a new trend: during ‘Red Montalcino’ – the first edition of a sort of anteprima tasting dedicated solely to Rosso di Montalcino DOC held in June – it was revealed that many producers are labelling selections of Rosso di Montalcino; a kind of premiumisation of Rosso. Many of these selections boast two years of ageing, rather than the one year minimum.

Vineyard selections include the young vines in ‘Rossofonte’ from Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, and the old vines in Casanova di Neri’s ‘Giovanni Neri’, but Rosso di Montalcino has also been used to debut the next generation of winemaker at Il Marroneto with the launch of Iacopo, named after Alessandro Mori’s son. Iacopo is a selection of wine in big oak vessels (botti) likely to become Brunello di Montalcino, but which is bottled as a top Rosso instead.

So, are we back to identifying the best Rosso di Montalcino as ‘baby Brunello’? It is certainly not the only definition. ‘The rise in crus for Rosso is good news – it proves that the estates are investing in quality,’ commented Bindocci during a workshop about the DOC. ‘Rosso is not a baby Brunello,’ added Violante Gardini, Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s daughter, ‘it is a sprinter versus a marathon runner.’

In the same context, more definitions were proposed for Rosso: ‘Less expensive than Brunello’; ‘young wine for young people’; ‘an emerging wine for Montalcino’. The last definition would probably be the most ideal slogan for this wine. Its shorter ageing compared to Brunello, especially nowadays, is a gift for both producers and consumers in terms of fragrance and freshness. Moreover, in cooler vintages it is considered acceptable for wineries to produce lighter styles of Rosso – easier to drink and softer – while Brunello is always expected to be full and extracted.

This makes Rosso a great contemporary wine. The biggest surprise, however, even with subtler winemaking, could be Rosso di Montalcino’s ageing potential. During a dinner in Montalcino, Riccardo Illy opened two bottles of Mastrojanni 1984 blind: one was Brunello and one was Rosso. Nobody, including me (sorry!) was able to identify the Rosso at nearly 40 years of age. A vertical tasting of several different labels further proved the great potential of the DOC.

Aldo’s top Rosso di Montalcino wines

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Decanter New York Fine Wine Encounter masterclass: Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Contrary to the current trend in Italy, Montalcino shows no signs of officially designating subzones or specific crus. Yet variations in exposure, altitude and soil make for myriad expressions, even before taking winemaking into account.

At Decanter’s first-ever Fine Wine Encounter in New York City, Brunello di Montalcino owned the final masterclass slot of the day. Ten wines from 2013 were carefully selected to discuss the diversity that exists within this revered region.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 benchmark Brunello di Montalcino wines from 2013

Story of 2013

The control was the 2013 vintage. This year is particularly suited to demonstrate the diversity of the zone as well as the versatility of Sangiovese. While not without challenges, it was neither excessively hot nor was it a washout.

Described as a cool year, 2013 also saw rain during most of the growing season. Temperatures didn’t warm up until August, delaying veraison and heralding a late harvest.

Showers at the start of September further postponed picking for many. Thankfully, conditions improved as the month progressed, with warm days and cool nights eking out ripeness. Picking started on September 23rd in the warmest corners and continued through mid-October – a throwback to vintages of the last century.

The 2013 vintage release in 2018 was my inaugural Brunello report for Decanter. I was captivated by the many graceful, perfumed and refined examples. For some, phenolic ripeness was a struggle and less successful wines were lean and hard. Nevertheless, these were outweighed by many demonstrating well-sculpted structures.

A stellar lineup

This marks my first time revisiting multiple 2013s together. Opened – but not decanted – a few hours before the tasting, they were more expressive than they showed four and a half years ago. With less rigidity and more fluidity, they had settled into their personalities.

Leading the seminar with the iconic founding estate of Biondi-Santi was an obvious choice. This was the only wine in the lineup blended from multiple areas within Montalcino.

Besides a later harvest than usual, 2013 was also the first vintage since 1970 without Franco Biondi-Santi at the helm. Despite this, its hallmark ethereal, slightly austere style prevailed.

All points of the Brunello compass

From there, the wines were organised in a counterclockwise direction around the region – beginning and ending in Torrenieri in the northeast.

SassodiSole provided a fitting segue to Biondi-Santi as owner Roberto Terzuoli spent several years working with Franco. With compact clay and a predisposition to fog and frost, Torrenieri is a challenging pocket for grape growing. Nevertheless, SassodiSole’s higher, stonier vineyards demonstrate its potential for characterful Brunello.

Continuing westward in Montalcino’s cool northern swath, Canalicchio di Sopra’s core Brunello represented two relatively close yet distinct areas. Combining fruit from northeast facing plots in the mineral-laden clay of Canalicchio with grapes grown in Galestro soils of Montosoli’s hallowed hill, it allies the balsamic notes of the former with the minerality of the latter.

With similar expositions but higher in elevation, Il Marroneto is located on the outskirts of Montalcino town. The combination of altitude, exposure and the site’s calcareous soil rich in marine sand highlights the fragrant, elegant side of Sangiovese.

One of only two estates based in the far northwest, Castiglion del Bosco provided a transition with its southwestern exposure yielding a candid, weightier expression.

Continuing south down Montalcino’s western flank, the strong afternoon sun and palpable Mediterranean climate gives overall riper wines.

Rising above Camigliano, the luminous vineyards of Frescobaldi’s extensive Castelgiocondo estate also boast a strong influence from the Tyrrhenian Sea, only 40km away. The densest wine of the lineup, it was lifted by an appetising salinity.

Further south still, Col d’Orcia’s Poggio al Vento sits just below the town of Sant’Angelo in Colle on sandy, limestone soil, rich in minerals. ‘It was originally planted in 1974 by my grandfather,’ said Santiago Marone Cinzano who had come all the way from Italy to attend. The only Riserva in the lineup, it suggests the longevity this category should offer.

Onward to the southeastern sector where vineyards are predominantly oriented towards the Monte Amiata and bask in the gentle morning sun. Although hot during the day, nighttime temperatures drop substantially, preserving acidity and aromas. On the wild and forested Strada di Sesta, Giodo’s limestone soil contributes to the wine’s freshness.

Further east and at higher altitudes, Val di Suga’s Poggio al Granchio sits on steep schistose Galestro slopes above the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. It gave one of 2013’s more substantial, muscular wines.

Coming almost full circle, the seminar culminated with Casanova di Neri’s Cerretalto. At the far eastern boundary of Montalcino, the cool, slow ripening site is characterised by degraded rock of volcanic origin with a considerable presence of iron. Released a year later than its cohorts, it was the grippiest and most tightly wound.

Final verdict

Differences aside, the tasting confirmed that the 2013s are ageing gracefully yet still relatively youthful. Overall finesse of structure lends an accessibility, but they have plenty to give in the future.

If I am to compare them to surrounding vintages, they are less powerful than 2010, more elegant and precise than 2012, more substantial than the delicate 2014s, though slimmer than the sun-soaked, luscious 2015s.

As warmer, drier conditions continue to trend, we may soon be pining for vintages like 2013, especially as it so eloquently conveys the intricate nuances of the territory.

See tasting notes and scores for 10 Brunello di Montalcino wines from 2013

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A founding member of the Brunello di Montalcino consorzio in 1967, Fuligni was also one of the first names I encountered when I cut my teeth on this iconic wine. So it was without hesitation that I accepted an invitation to taste a vertical of the estate’s Riserva.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva vertical tasting

Of Venetian origin, the Fuligni clan moved to England in the 14th century. When Luigi Fuligni returned to his ancestral land in 1770, he settled in Tuscany and was granted land for cultivation in the Maremma region.

Several generations later, agronomist Giovanni Maria Fuligni relocated to Montalcino. He established the Fuligni estate in 1923 after purchasing the property from the Biondi-Santi family.

One of six children, Giovanni’s daughter Maria Flora worked alongside him for many years. She took the reins when he died in 1971. Now 86 years old, she continues to have a strong presence at the winery. ‘Particularly at harvest – she checks on the grapes, tasting the berries,’ says cellar master Daniele Zefferini. ‘She is a highly capable, active woman.’

The reputation of the estate is due to her hands-on management and unflagging commitment to quality. For the last 15 years, business economics graduate Dr Daniela Perino has been her right hand, and as of this year became Fuligni’s CEO.

Approximately three kilometres to the west, the town of Montalcino looms over the the 100-hectare estate. Essentially a contiguous property, it encompasses olive groves and hundreds of rose bushes along with 14 hectares of vineyards divided into three blocks. Predominantly east facing on stony Galestro marl, these rise from 380 to 450 metres above sea level. ‘The estate isn’t organic in the legal sense, but in the cultivation of the Brunello vineyards only sulphur and copper are used,’ asserts Perino.

Along with Brunello, Fuligni’s annual production of 50,000 to 60,000 bottles includes a Rosso di Montalcino, an IGT blend of Merlot and Sangiovese and a rosato. In years when it is crafted, the Riserva represents 12,000 to 13,000 bottles.

Produced since 1970, it has always hailed from the vineyards surrounding the historic heart of the Cottimelli estate – a 16th century ex-convent. Vigna San Giovanni, Vigna del Piano and Vigna Vignaccia boast vines that are at least 20 years old though some plants are upwards of 60.

Exceptional years

The concept of Fuligni’s Riserva is to express the characteristics of the year at its best. According to Maria Flora, this is only possible in the greatest vintages. Grapes must demonstrate ‘perfect polyphenolic ripeness of anthocyanins and tannins combined with substantial acid component that guarantees longevity,’ explains Perino. While the annata is crafted to be approachable in its youth, the Riserva can be austere upon release becoming more obviously gracious with time.

In terms of winemaking, little has changed over the years. Even the consulting oenology team has been consistent. Fuligni has collaborated with the Vagaggini family for 80 years spanning three generations.

At the beginning of the ’90s, the estate started working with French Allier oak tonneaux of 500 litres. These, however, are only used for the Brunello annata, with approximately 15% used to help fix the colour. Conversely, the Riserva matures exclusively in Slavonian oak casks of 20 to 30 hectolitres. ‘Given its greater structure, extract and polyphenols, we prefer that the Riserva goes through a long and traditional ageing in large botte,’ continues Perino.

Beyond this, there is little difference in vinification of the two. The wines are fermented with selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks that were introduced in the 70s. Maceration lasts approximately three weeks with frequent pump overs. ‘Fuligni doesn’t have a lot of technology,’ says Zefferini. ‘This is a disadvantage because the work is more demanding, but it also allows us to have a more artisanal approach.’

Tasting the Riserva

It is Zefferini, cellar master since 2010, who presents the vertical. He tastes studiously alongside me as we work our way from 2015 to 1983.

Within this 30-plus year period, there is an inevitable rise in alcohol levels due to the warming climate, but no change in style. Instead, the wines are time capsules that capture the uniqueness of each vintage. Zefferini opens wines from extremely warm vintages like 2015, 2012 and 2007 as well as cooler years like 2013 and 2010. ‘The great fortune of Fuligni and the northern zone of Montalcino is the significant difference between day and nighttime temperatures even in hot vintages,’ he says.

Each wine is on its own trajectory. I continue to be impressed with the commanding structure yet balance of the relatively recent 2015 release. I look forward to checking back with it in a few years. On the other hand, the generous and outgoing 2012 can be opened now. I was particularly charmed by the elegant 2013. While I don’t expect it to be a long ager, it could do with another year in bottle. A powerful force, 2010 is a surly teenager yet with obvious potential so best to wait.

The juxtaposition of 2006 and 2007 made for a fascinating comparison with the perspective of time. Both were rated five stars, but the latter was more highly touted upon release. Approximately a decade on, however, it is the 2006 – at least at Fuligni – that shines in terms of aging potential. It was my top pick of the vertical. I am inclined to hang onto it a bit longer while enjoying the 2007 in the near term.

Of the two oldest vintages, 1990 had reached its peak – though here I suspect some bottles might be better than others. Simply a pleasure to taste, the 1983 was in excellent shape with plenty of life left.

Tasting through the wines, I was reminded of a visit to the estate earlier in 2021. On that occasion, Maria Flora’s nephew and co-owner of the estate, Roberto Guerrini Fuligni hosted me. A keen music aficionado, he put on Glenn Gould playing Bach’s Goldberg variations. Fuligni’s young Riservas are much like Gould’s 1955 recording with a vigour and energy that sweeps you away sometimes leaving you too breathless to fully appreciate the complexities. The older vintages are akin to the more ponderous, slightly decelerated 1981 rendering. They allow you to contemplate their intricacies.

Young or old though, Fuligni’s Riserva is a demonstration of mastery, precision and class – a true classic of Montalcino that has stood the test of time.

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva vertical: tasting notes & scores

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‘Poggio all’Oro is the vineyard from which our marriage with Sangiovese started,’ declares Enrico Viglierchio, Banfi’s General Manager of over 20 years. He hosted me at Castello Banfi for a vertical tasting during Montalcino’s most recent Benvenuto Brunello event in November 2021.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Poggio all’Oro vertical tasting

In the region’s southwest corner, the 800-hectare estate surrounds the medieval Poggio alle Mura castle. It was purchased in 1978 by Italo-American brothers John and Harry Mariani. They arrived with a certain bravado but were instrumental in the success of Brunello in the US market.

Today the company is led by John’s youngest daughter Cristina Mariani-May who has honed Banfi’s environmental and research initiatives.

The most prolific producer and largest landowner in Montalcino, Banfi boasts 173.5 hectares designated for Brunello. The vineyards spread out from Camigliano to Tavernelle down to Sant’Angelo Scalo. Of the 10 million bottles Banfi produces annually in Tuscany, 500,000 are Brunello.

These are divided between five labels. One of two Riservas, Poggio all’Oro is Banfi’s historic flagship. At 20,000 to 30,000 bottles per year, it is comparable in quantity to the estate’s other Riserva – Poggio alle Mura. The latter is made every vintage from a selection of choice grapes throughout Castello Banfi’s extensive Brunello vineyards, whereas Poggio all’Oro hails from a single vineyard and is crafted only in top years.

While single vineyard Brunellos are now prevalent in Montalcino, Banfi can be considered an early adopter as Poggio all’Oro has been produced since 1985. Given Banfi’s vastness, it is a single vineyard on a macro, California-esque scale. Totalling 24 hectares, Poggio all’Oro is much larger than the entire surface area of many other Montalcino estates. Upon its inception, it also diverged from the classic interpretation of a Riserva which was usually selected from an estate’s old vines as espoused by Biondi Santi.

Translated as the ‘golden knoll’, Poggio all’Oro sits at the highest elevation of the estate’s gently rolling hills. Essentially a plateau, it rises gradually from 229 to 255 metres above sea level. With a southwest exposure, it is bathed in sun by mid-morning through to early evening. The soil is predominantly brown clay with lots of small alluvial stones that help drainage.

A massal selection from the vineyards surrounding it, Poggio all’Oro was planted between 1978 to 1981. The low density (2,100 vines per hectare) and high cordon spur training system reflected the prevailing customs of that era. In 2016, Banfi began replanting the vineyard, renewing all but five hectares by 2020. Density has been increased and ‘albarello’ or small bush vines were also partially introduced. Cuttings were taken from old vines to preserve the concept of a massal selection. This contrasts with the rest of the estate’s vineyards which have been replanted with specific clones selected on the property – the result of extensive studies that started in 1982.

In the winery, Poggio all’Oro has seen a slow evolution. Vinification in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks remained the standard from 1985 to 2006. During this period, aging was predominantly in Banfi’s signature 350-litre barriques. At the turn of the century, Banfi started to rein in the wood influence by gradually decreasing toast levels.

Nevertheless, the greatest changes began in 2006 when Banfi’s new vinification facility was completed. It was outfitted with the estate’s patented Horizon tanks invented in collaboration with the esteemed Gamba cooperage. A hybrid of stainless steel and wood, they combine the cleanliness of the former with the benefits of slight oxygen ingress of the latter, describes winemaker Gabriele Pazzaglia. ‘Bringing greater precision to the winemaking through smaller batch vinification, the tanks allow for gravity pressing, délestage, pumping over and long macerations if desired,’ he says. The 24 lightly toasted vats are used exclusively for the estate’s Brunello and Sangiovese-based Super Tuscan wines.

At the same time, Banfi began reducing aging in barriques in favour of large casks of 40 hectolitres or more for all its Brunello bottlings. This transition is most pronounced in Poggio all’Oro where the soon-to be-released 2016 sees just 20% barriques. Viglierchio points to years of experimentation in tandem with the changing climate and trying to balance ripeness. ‘These factors led us to research the most suitable aging in wood,’ he says. ‘All aimed at a quest for greater elegance and respect of the vineyard.’

The tasting

Charting this evolution, we tasted nine of the 15 vintages produced starting with the inaugural 1985. ‘There were large jumps between certain years,’ explains Banfi Communication Manager, Lorella Carresi. ‘For example, between 1999 and 2004, the 2001 was not made as spring frost decimated the vines.’

Just four of the 15 vintages were not rated five stars by the Brunello consortium – 1986, 1993, 1999 and 2013. We tasted all these except for 1986. The vertical included hotter than average, more extreme vintages like 1985, 1993 and 2006 as well as cooler, more balanced years like 2004, 2010 and 2013. The wines demonstrated varying vintages and changes in winemaking, but above all the sturdy, foursquare character of Poggio all’Oro pervaded.

Tasting the 1985 vintage was a rare treat, even for the team at Banfi. While it won’t improve, it is not on precipice. The same can be said of 1999 and 1993, though I would open these within the near-term for maximum balance of fruit and structure. The latter was the least charming of the vertical, a throwback to a bygone era. Though 2004 showed better oak integration, the evolution of fruit was not quite in step with the unhurried structure.

Conversely, 2006 was still quite immovable. It definitely has Poggio all’Oro’s signature austerity and linearity but fascinatingly so. I would continue to hang onto it – along with the 2010, 2015 and 2016. Of these, I’d hedge my bets on 2015 coming around first. It shows the warmth of the vintage and may not be as long-lived. As for 2013, it was the most elegant – which is not a characteristic I typically associate with Poggio all’Oro. The most approachable of the wines since 2010, it can be opened now.

Ending on a high note, the 2016 is a testament to the work at Banfi. It suggests that all the fine tuning will have a positive impact on the fruit to tannin ratio and allow the wines to express and age with greater harmony.

Poggio all’Oro vertical: tasting notes & scores

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Green undulating valleys, flecked by pin-straight pines and flanked by woodlands. Sun-drenched olive trees and slopes carpeted in vines. Sleepy villages, cluttered with medieval builds. And, perched at the top of a hill overlooking it all, Castiglion del Bosco.

Tuscan hotels don’t get any more picturesque than this 2,000ha estate. But Castiglion del Bosco wasn’t built to be a hotel. It certainly wasn’t built to be a Rosewood. The glossy American brand with impeccable luxury creds and a celebrity following only took over the estate’s accommodation offering in 2015. 

Turn the clock back a millennia and this remarkable hilltop enclave housed a medieval castle. A 14th-century painting by Pietro Lorenzetti remains preserved in the onsite church – now a museum-worthy selfie op for hotel guests. 

Vinous roots 

After falling into disrepair, the hamlet was purchased by fashion scion Massimo Ferragamo in 2003 and splendidly – down to the last bit of cobbled stonework and burnt orange roof tile – regenerated into a resort. He was drawn, as all wine-loving visitors will be, by Castiglion del Bosco’s deep connection to Brunello di Montalcino.

The estate has grown grapes for centuries, long before Tuscan wines were esteemed around the world, and in 1967 Castiglion del Bosco was one of the founding members of the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino. Its wine was among the first to achieve DOC status in Italy.

Visit Castiglion del Bosco today, and you’ll see that the connection continues to thrive. Once you’ve dropped your bags in your Rosewood suite or villa – 19 new but sympathetically designed stunners opened in August 2021, almost doubling the property’s number of rooms – you can be at the onsite winery and sipping on Sangiovese verticals within minutes. 

Of course, being in the heart of Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t mean staying put at just one winery. Rosewood knows as much; the hotel offers every kind of tailored wine-tasting experience you can hope for, whether you fancy a tour of top local producers normally closed to the public or, in autumn, a truffle hunting expedition followed by a decadent winery lunch. 

But its flagship wine experience? A full day helicopter tour over the surrounding Unesco-protected Val d’Orcia, including a stop at biodynamic Podere Le Ripi winery and lunch at Michelin-starred restaurant Silene. Basically, with their connections, there’s not much the Rosewood staff can’t pull off. 

Food, feasts and relaxation 

Once you’ve had your fill of exploring, back at the hotel you can lay into full-scale indulgence. There are two Italian restaurants, serving the likes of hare pappardelle, Tuscan pigeon with pomegranate glaze and, of course, crowd-pleasing pizza. 

In summer, long-table dinners are held open-air in the organic kitchen garden, so you can feast on freshly plucked veg as the sun sinks below the hills. Wherever and whenever you’re dining, wine is a key part of it. In fact, the hotel endeavours to list every one of the Brunello region’s 240 producers. (Whether you can actually order them all is another matter; stock varies depending on when you visit.) 

Because the grounds are rambling, and the guest numbers are comparatively few, the Rosewood never feels crammed, whether you’re sipping a cocktail by the pool overlooking the Val d’Orcia or getting a lavender-scented massage in the serene spa. 

But for ultimate space and tranquillity, trade one of the suites – dressed in typically Tuscan deep reds, golden yellows, soothing creams – for an even more spacious villa. These restored 17th and 18th-century farmhouses, large enough for a big family, come with heated infinity pools, ‘mamas’ (a homely maid-meets-butler service) and, in some cases, tennis courts, jacuzzis and home theatres. In other words, only the good old fashioned Tuscan essentials…

For more information visit www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/castiglion-del-bosco

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We’re excited to host the Brunello di Montalcino – A Study In Contrasts masterclass at the debut Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC taking place in the heart of Manhattan’s Financial District on Saturday, 18th June.

The best Brunello di Montalcino wines sit alongside some of the world’s greats. Known for their elegant yet concentrated fruits and powerful, structured style this unmissable masterclass will offer Italian wine lovers a fantastic opportunity to get to grips with the terroir, style, quality and spectacular diversity that exists in the region. 

Join Michaela Morris who has hand-selected 10 of the region’s finest examples from different vineyard areas, all from 2013 – a vintage that was not marked by any temperature extremes nor abundant rain or drought.

All of these wines are really opening up and starting to show their individual and unique personalities.

The wines are:

• Val di Suga, Poggio al Granchio, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Castiglion del Bosco, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Canalicchio di Sopra, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• SassodiSole, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Casanova di Neri, Cerretalto, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Frescobaldi, CastelGiocondo, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Col d’Orcia, Poggio al Vento Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Biondi-Santi, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Il Marroneto, Brunello di Montalcino 2013
• Podere Giodo, Brunello di Montalcino 2013

The Brunello di Montalcino masterclass tickets cost $245 and places are strictly limited so we recommend booking today to avoid disappointment.

Grand tasting

As well as hosting three other special masterclasses throughout the day (Krug, Château Margaux and Burgundy), fine wine lovers will also be able to attend the walk-around grand tasting with access to over 200 fine wines from 50 of the world’s most prestigious producers.

The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC is set to be a truly unforgettable day of fine wine tasting – we can’t wait to see you there.

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday June 18 2022 from 10:30am to 6pm.

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 | Masterclass tickets from $235

Visit events.decanter.com/newyork

 Buy tickets today

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When it comes to Italian wine, Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino are two of the most likely candidates for cellaring. Their respective grape varieties, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, are undoubtedly the country’s noblest and, in their most prestigious denominations, there is no question of their pedigree for long and beneficial ageing.

In decades past, both typically took years to come round in the bottle, but modern-day production can result in more immediately accessible wines.

Some producers point to the warming climate and greater resulting ripeness. Evolution in winemaking also plays a part. Crucially though, Barolo and Brunello haven’t lost their ability to transform slowly over the years as they rest, especially in great vintages.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six top Barolo and Brunello wines to drink now

Barolo

Barolo is the reference for the most powerful, longest-lived Nebbiolo. DOCG regulations require more than three years of ageing (five for Riserva) before release, with at least 18 months spent in barrel, although many producers mature their wines for longer to mollify Nebbiolo’s long, dry tannins. Even then, Barolo can still be a daunting prospect upon release. But it isn’t just Barolo’s structure that needs time – Nebbiolo reveals its haunting complexities gradually.

During much of the 20th century, ripening Nebbiolo on the vine was difficult. Conversely, since the great 2001 vintage, only 2002 has been a washout. Even the rainy 2014 was salvaged by improved weather in September. Moreover, Piedmont has seen more warm than cool years; 2003 was the first year of extreme heat, across all of Europe, and producers learned from it, enabling them to better manage subsequent hot vintages such as 2007, 2009, 2011 and 2017.

Nevertheless, in the best vintages, cool nights pre-harvest generally allow for slow ripening to mature tannins and develop nuanced flavours. All three of the vintages I have selected have this in common, yet are equally marked by other influences to give them distinct personalities.

2013

Despite success, 2013 was not particularly easy in Barolo. Mildew attacks and slow vegetative growth meant the vines had difficulty catching up. The mild summer transitioned into a cool autumn and ripening occurred at a snail’s pace. A late harvest, from mid-October to early November, made for classic, scented beauties.

I was charmed upon first tasting the 2013s. While restrained, they demonstrated finesse and precision. The trend toward gentler extractions highlighted the loveliness of the vintage. Eight years on, the wines are really starting to shine. It’s not too early to start opening these, and they will captivate for another 10-12 years.

2006

Like the juxtaposition of 1996 and 1997, 2006 was initially eclipsed by the flashier and fleshier 2007. The year was erratic in 2006 with temperatures alternating between warmer than average and unseasonably cool. Even when it warmed up towards the end of August, nights remained chilly and mid-September saw abundant downpours.

Sternly tannic and bracing in acidity, the wines were not easy to taste when first released. I revisited a handful when they reached 10 years old and still thought it best to wait. Then in 2020, the wines started turning a corner. Admittedly, some wines were languishing – either due to imposing oak regimes or over-extraction – nevertheless, it was apparent that the gulf between traditional and modern approaches was diminishing.

Above all, the greatest producers stand out by showing their skill in balancing this muscular year. Thrillingly intense and vertical with sculpted tannins, these wines will continue to drink well over the next 10 years and more.

2001

The 2001 vintage began with some drama – higher than average temperatures led to early bud break then mid-April frost, and some areas were hit by localised heavy hail. August and early September were fairly hot, then cooler temperatures with intermittent rainfall slowed ripening.

Moderate sugar levels made for balanced alcohol and the resulting wines showed intricate flavours, mature ample tannins and the stuffing to last. At the start of this century, the divide between modernists (characterised by techniques such as short macerations and barrique ageing) and traditionalists (long macerations and large casks) was still prevalent.

Both came out with impressive 2001s. Most of those I have tried recently fall into the traditional camp and are holding on strong – in fact, Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva was still positively youthful two years ago. Tasted more recently, Bruno Giacosa’s Le Rocche del Falletto is hitting a beautiful stride.

See also: Barolo 2017 vintage report plus 120 wines tasted

Brunello di Montalcino

The only grape allowed in Brunello, Sangiovese achieves a formidable expression in Montalcino. These Tuscan wines possess substantial, textured tannins. Aged even longer than Barolo, Brunello can’t be released until the fifth January following harvest (an extra year for Riserva) and must include at least two years in barrel.

The Brunello consorzio assigns every vintage a ranking out of five stars. Over the last four decades, five-star years have increased from two in the 1980s to three in both the 1990s and 2000s, and a whopping five vintages in the last decade (2010, ’12, ’15, ’16 and ’19). Furthermore, only one vintage, 2014, was given three stars while the remaining years were awarded four.

Superficially, the changing climate seems to have been relatively favourable for Montalcino to date. But quality has also been driven by investments in new cellars, thoughtful viticulture and research, particularly regarding clones.

Hot, dry vintages are becoming more common and two of the vintages I have selected here – 2012 and 2007 – were exceedingly warm. Both were awarded five stars. The 1999, for which I have particular affection, was ‘only’ given four stars, but has proven to be a tireless long-distance runner.

2012

The 2012 vintage was even hotter than 2007 had been, and considerably drier. Drought stressed the vines and the heat decelerated photosynthesis. Crucially, rain in early September refreshed the plants, and the growing season concluded with sunny days and fresh nights.Modest quantities of small grapes with thick skins gave dense wines, concentrated in all elements: fruit, tannins, acidity and alcohol, which needed a few years to come together.

Recent tastings have reiterated that 2012 is strikingly balanced in its proportions. Some wines from warmer expositions are showing their heat and slightly drying tannins. Overall, however, the wines don’t necessarily present as being from a hot year and in some cases are positively racy. Many are appealing now – not the sophistication and potential of 2010, but ripe, textured and packed with personality.

2007

A decidedly warm summer with intermittent rains giving balance, 2007 saw a rather precocious harvest, starting on 10 September. It yielded concentrated grapes with lots of sugar, ripe tannins and flavours, though moderate acidities. Trying the wines shortly after release, I appreciated producer Laura Brunelli’s analogy of a wild young horse and the vintage’s almost unruly yet fascinating nature. Forward, round and supple, the wines were approachable early on.Ten years later, that youthful vigour has subsided. They still offer the pleasure of the vintage but are at their peak. Top wines, especially those from cooler sites, will continue to give maximum gratification over the next five years or so.

1999

Upon release, 1999 was overshadowed by 1997, which was considered the vintage of the decade. Both were very warm years, but nights in 1999 were cooler. A relatively early harvest from mid- to end-September gave powerfully structured wines. Less obvious and less sumptuous than 1997, 1999 was austere and unyielding for many years. The wines finally came around and are outliving 1997 in my opinion; they have aged harmoniously in terms of both structure and flavours. There is no need to keep these in the cellar any longer, and yet they are not on the verge of falling apart. They represent classic Brunello from a bygone era.

See also:

Brunello di Montalcino 2017 vintage report and top-scoring wines 

Brunello di Montalcino 2017 score table

See Michaela Morris’ tasting notes and scores for top Barolo and Brunello vintages to drink now:

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Barolo vs Brunello vs Barbaresco: What’s the difference?

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Brunello di Montalcino: The 10 must-know estates

Michaela Morris tasted 130 wines for her latest reports on the wines of Brunello: Brunello di Montalcino 2017 and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016.

While Brunello is dominated by well-established families and star winemakers, there is still room for up-and-coming producers to make a name for themselves in this prestigious denomination.

Scroll down to see a selection of eight wines from these five under-the-radar Brunello producers

This is especially true now that the available vineyard area has effectively increased due to the abolition of the maximum elevation legislation, which came into effect with the 2016 vintage; grapes grown above 600 metres can now be used for Brunello di Montalcino.

Below, see five under-the-radar producers making excellent wines that deserve more attention.

Under-the-radar Brunello producers

Cava d’Onice

Simone Nannetti has been working in vineyards since he was 14. He made his first Brunello in 2000. From less than 400 bottles, he has grown production to 15,000. Through the wines, one senses a self-assured hand and he coaxes more and more personality each vintage. The wines will be certified organic from the 2018 vintage.

Il Palazzone

Il Palazzone offers Brunello with a refreshing ‘lightness’ even in the hot, dry 2017 vintage thanks to parcels at lofty elevations. In 2021, the estate was purchased by American couple Kirsten and Peter Kern, who are investing further in high altitude plantings. They also plan on continuing the robust sustainability protocols established by former owner Richard Parsons.

Pietra

Longtime growers, the Ferretti family sold wine in bulk to large Montalcino brands until the 2016 vintage. Since then, 25-year-old Matteo Ferretti has been crafting just 4,000 bottles of Brunello under the Pietra label from the estate’s oldest vines. Potential shines through even in the challenging 2017 vintage.

Pietroso

Gianni Pignattai took charge of his grandfather’s tiny hobby estate 30 years ago. Today, vineyards total five hectares spread across three distinct parcels. Straightforward, sensible winemaking yields perfumed, earthy Brunello with lots of soul, and Pignattai managed to pull off quite a graceful 2017.

Podere Scopetone

After buying the La Melina farm in 2002, Loredana Tanganelli and Antonio Brandi started producing wine when they took over the neighbouring Scopetone estate in 2009. They make just 7,000 bottles of Brunello (along with a Rosso and IGT Toscana) with the help of top-notch consultant Maurizio Castelli. The hallmark here is buoyancy and transparency without lacking in depth.

Under-the-radar Brunello producers: tasted

Related content

See all 45 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016, including some late releases, from Michaela’s report