A celebratory July 1 Canada Day table in British Columbia is a sight to be seen.

There might be spot prawns piled onto a platter beside a bowl of strawberries. Cedar-planked salmon comes off the grill while someone else flips burgers.

Corn is rolled in butter. A bag of ketchup chips appears from nowhere. Later, there's a butter tart on a paper plate.

It's a chaotic menu by wine-pairing standards, but wines from Canada’s westernmost province of British Columbia (BC) handle it because of one thing: acidity.

Freshness has built BC's international wine reputation, and it's also what makes the wines useful at the table.

Canadian summer food tends to be rich, smoky, sweet, and salty, often all at once. Bright acidity doesn't fight those flavours, it keeps up with them.

'What goes together grows together,' says Okanagan Valley native Ned Bell, one of Canada’s best-known chefs and co-owner of Hatch Hospitality in Vancouver.

Across the board, 'BC's climate gives our wines an acidity and freshness that work beautifully with food,' Bell adds.

Seasonal food that hits the spot

Take spot prawns – the large Pacific Ocean crustacean prized for its lobster-like sweetness and delicate buttery texture.

For a few weeks each spring, they're the most anticipated ingredient on Canada's west coast – restaurants build menus around them, fishmongers sell out.

‘Wild BC spot prawns signal that summer is on its way,’ says Bell. ‘They kick off an incredible parade of seasonal ingredients, from strawberries and raspberries to sweet corn, cherries, apricots, and peaches, each arriving in its own perfect time.’

The excitement surrounding spot prawn season says something about Canadian summer food.

Despite the country's reputation for hearty fare, the best warm-weather meals are often built around fresh fish and produce; ingredients that taste best when they're barely touched.

BC wine matches that instinct almost exactly. ‘The focus is on style and texture, with acidity playing a key role across all wines,’ says Bram Bolwijn, guest and VIP experience manager with Iconic Wineries of BC.

That same acidity that flatters shellfish also holds up to the grill – and Canadian summer cooking loves a grill.

Open-fire grilling, fresh produce – and rosé

Cedar-planked salmon remains one of the country's most iconic warm-weather dishes.

The technique originates with Indigenous nations along the Pacific coast – including the Squamish, Tsilhqot'in, and Haida – who cooked salmon over open fire on cedar planks, drawing on cedar's deep cultural significance in coastal life.

Elsewhere, burgers, sausages, and steaks become the centrepiece of backyard gatherings.

Ask Joshua Bauerlein, estate chef at Liquidity Wines in Okanagan Falls, what a real Canadian summer meal looks like and his answer isn't particularly complicated.

‘Grilled game and burgers. Mixed with fresh seasonal produce like Okanagan peaches and sweet corn, and cold, refreshing sides.’

Bauerlein’s answer raises the obvious question: what wine goes with all of this? ‘Rain or shine, I love a good Cabernet Franc rosé,’ he says.

Rosé zeroes in on the middle ground. It has enough freshness for salads and seasonal vegetables, enough fruit for burgers, and enough character to stand up to smoky flavours.

‘Cab Franc's bright acidic and often herbal structure helps cut through the richness of game while highlighting the earthy and savoury notes from the grill,’ adds Bauerlein.

Diversity and freshness

That willingness to surprise is why other parts of the world are now paying attention to the wines from Canada’s west coast.

BC produces everything from traditional-method sparkling wine and aromatic whites to vast ranges in red wines and rosé, and let’s not forget ice wine. Few regions offer such a mixed bag while maintaining a consistent sense of freshness.

For international drinkers discovering BC wine for the first time, Bolwijn believes geography may attract attention, but it isn't what keeps people interested.

‘The Okanagan Valley's location begins the conversation: quality and the way we present our wines build our reputation, through a region that is defined by diversity.’

That diversity is particularly useful on Canada Day, when the menu rarely sticks to one theme. Seafood shares space with grilled meats. Farmers' market produce sits beside potato chips. Dessert appears long before anyone is actually hungry.

Wines that make sense

Which brings us to the butter tart: a uniquely Canadian dessert of brown sugar, often maple syrup and, yes, lots of butter, that tastes similar to pecan pie without the pecans.

Ice wine carries a reputation as a special-occasion pour – more likely to be offered to visitors than poured on a random Tuesday. Yet few wines make more sense alongside a butter tart.

The dessert is rich, intensely sweet, and unapologetically indulgent. A dry wine can feel harsh by comparison. Ice wine to the rescue; matching the tart where it is, while acidity prevents the pairing from becoming cloying.

That's the thing about BC wine. It doesn't need a carefully planned tasting menu to make sense.

Give it spot prawns, salmon, burgers, corn, or dessert. Give it the slightly chaotic spread that appears on Canadian tables every summer. More often than not, it finds a way to fit in.

10 BC wines to pair with Canadian summer dishes

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Dana Nigro is an experienced wine journalist based in New Jersey, with extensive knowledge of, and contacts in, the North American wine industry.

She will work closely with Decanter's network of correspondents and contributors to deliver authoritative reporting, expert analysis and trusted wine recommendations for Decanter's global audience.

'I am thrilled to be joining Decanter, a brand I have long admired for its rich legacy, trusted expertise and commitment to providing consumers with reliable, timely wine education and buying advice,' said Nigro.

'I look forward to working with Decanter's talented team of editors and correspondents to build on its strong presence across North America, showcasing the diversity of the wine scenes in the US, Canada and Mexico, while bringing the latest developments in the region to Decanter's global audience and introducing even more North American readers to the brand's award-winning content, events and experiences.'

Jonny Sullens, Managing Director of Decanter, added: 'Dana understands both the traditions that make wine journalism valuable and the evolving ways audiences discover and engage with content today.

'North America remains one of the most dynamic and influential wine regions in the world, and Dana's extensive network, reporting experience, and passion for the subject make her exceptionally well positioned to lead Decanter's coverage.'

Jonathan Cristaldi, who served in an ambassadorial role as Acting North America Regional Editor from April until Nigro’s appointment, remains as Decanter’s Napa Valley correspondent, a position he has held since 2021.

Riesling, sustainability… and scuba diving

Nigro spent more than 25 years with Wine Spectator in New York City, where she started as news editor, then became a senior editor for the magazine and the digital managing editor – responsible for the website, social media and apps.

She fell in love with wine while studying magazine journalism in New York’s Finger Lakes wine region, where she took advantage of the excellent wine program at Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration.

As a result, one of her passions is Riesling. Another is sustainability in wine – from the vineyard soil to the winery buildings to the bottles (and boxes).

While reporting on US wine, Nigro reported on major developments, such as the battle to legalize direct shipping up through the US Supreme Court decision in Granholm v Heald, the rise of women in California’s wine industry, and the evolution of West Coast winegrowing from its early sustainability certifications to its movement toward regenerative farming.

Before her wine career, she worked at a fine-dining restaurant, served as a reporter covering local news and the international travel industry, and taught scuba diving.

Nigro can be contacted at teamusa@decanter.com

Taste Cloudsley Cellars wines with Adam Lowy in New York

Meet Adam in person and taste Cloudsley Cellars wines in the Grand Tasting room at Decanter's Fine Wine Encounter New York on 6 June.

At the table with Adam Lowy

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There is a particular stillness to Niagara in early spring – before the canopy fills in, before certainty returns.

Yet it also carries an electric energy.

It is a season of emergence: on the heels of winter’s last chill, sunlight breaks through and the promise of warmer days builds. Budbreak is on the horizon.

And new wines begin to emerge from the cellar revealing familiar annual releases and first-time bottlings; all imbued with the energy of Niagara’s crisp spring. These are wines that are vivid, lifted, and alive.

If there is a constant in Niagara, it is acidity. Tasting these wines offers a clear reminder of its defining role: sometimes bright and striking, at other times a subtle structural thread, carrying each wine forward with lift and focus.

More than a single feature, acidity shapes the wines from within, bringing length and precision. And in springtime, this freshness feels doubly amplified.

The wines suggested below hold something of that moment: of definition emerging through restraint, of energy gathering just beneath the surface.

They are perfect wines for spring and the first taste of summer warmth.

Gamay: An emerging red expression

Gamay captures this energy well. Long valued for its vibrancy, it is increasingly revealing a nuanced expression in Niagara.

At Malivoire Wine Company, the variety remains a flagship, with a portfolio drawn from the Niagara Escarpment.

Bachelder, through an expanding range of single-vineyard bottlings, continues to refine Gamay into a messenger for site expression, each release sharpening the lens on Niagara’s 10 sub-appellations.

At Fielding Estate Winery, a lighter, more immediately expressive style highlights the grape’s charm and accessibility, while Tawse draws out a more textural example.

Together, these interpretations reveal Gamay’s range – from lifted and playful to structured and complex – yet always anchored by a core of freshness, its energy in tune with spring itself.

Pink: A spring and summer staple

Rosé, by colour alone, announces spring’s arrival. At Stone Eagle Winery, it balances delicacy with structure.

This is not a simple wine, but one that reflects Niagara’s ability to layer texture and nuance even within its most amorous seasonal style.

This rosé captures a fleeting early warmth in the air, while still grounded by the region’s defining tension.

Chardonnay: The classic white

Chardonnay remains Niagara’s anchor, its glistening acidity bringing both energy and definition.

Across the region, top examples continue to evolve, guided by site and winemaking decisions.

The Clos de Kew from Domaine Le Clos Jordanne reflects this deepening single-site focus, while wines from Long Way Home Winery and Westcott Vineyards explore tension, minerality, and structure.

These are Chardonnays that resist excess, instead celebrating clarity and energy.

Old vines and terracotta

Old vines offer a counterpoint to the uncertainty of spring. As vineyards navigate budbreak and frost, these mature plantings respond with a steady composure, their deep root systems and natural balance bringing a sense of resilience.

At Tawse, Stratus, Hidden Bench, and Westcott, this translates into wines of depth and wisdom, anchoring each vintage even in its most fragile moments.

Stratus Vineyards has taken this interplay of age and energy and given it a new dimension by using terracotta amphora.

Sourced from vines planted in 1985, its Amphora Chardonnay bridges history and evolution, highlighting mineral expression while preserving its delicate character.

As head winemaker, Dean Stoyka, says: ‘The amphora softens the edges without diminishing acidity. With old vines, it’s about careful management – preserving elegance while letting the structure speak.’

Fizz: Freshness crystallised

Sparkling wine, perhaps more than any other style, crystallises Niagara’s identity.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery uses that crisp Niagara acidity to form the foundation of its traditional method programme.

Precise and persistent, this acidity provides the structure needed to craft sparkling wines that reveal complexity and depth with extended time on lees.

If spring in Niagara asks questions of the vines, the wines selected here offer some of the first answers.

Shaped by risk, defined by energy, and carried, always, by an unmistakable thread of glistening acidity.

Ten perfect springtime wines from Niagara Peninsula

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To the average Canadian wine consumer – the ones who are tasked with simply drinking and enjoying wine – local wine is still a cottage industry. It’s cute.

Wineries in Niagara, Prince Edward County and Vancouver Island are vacation destinations. Their bottles are gifts for visiting friends.

Winemakers and sommeliers will argue otherwise – Canada makes incredible cool-climate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Merlot, though it’s taken some hard work and hand-selling to convince consumers.

That’s changing, and rather unexpectedly. Last March, Canadian provinces and territories removed and disallowed the further sale of California Cabernet, bourbon, and other all-American products as a protest against President Trump’s tariffs.

Which left Canadian sommeliers and retailers scrambling to fill menus and shelves. There to catch new drinkers: Canadian wine.

In 2025, sales of US wine in Canada dropped 94%, while sales of Ontario wine shot up 56% in the province. Sommeliers are moving more Canadian wine than ever. Producers are reporting tenfold sales increases, at a time when the broader wine industry is struggling.

While this started as a patriotism-fueled pivot, it’s become a major moment for the budding and now blooming Canadian wine industry.

Filling the American gap

A big part of the sales jump is necessity. Up until 2025, Canada was the largest market for American wine. Losing American wine has left gaps in both volume and style.

Last December, Taylor Emerson released a pallet of his 2022 Black Bank Hill Cabernet Sauvignon. ‘It certainly proved the pent-up demand for the varietal. We’ve had record sales, and went through 64% of the inventory in two weeks,’ he said.

‘There’s been a huge increase in our Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sales because we are aligned with what California does,’ finds Thomas Pennachetti of Cave Spring Winery in Niagara. ‘We were seeing increases prior to this, but this moment really turbocharged it.’

Ilya and Nadia Senchuk, owners of Niagara’s Leaning Post, went from selling 380 cases a year in Ontario stores to 3,000. ‘We saw everyone from local restaurants to hotel chains – people who had American Chardonnay locked in on their menu – say, oh my god, I need an oaked Chardonnay,’ Nadia says. ‘We have one.’

These sales weren’t without trying. When boycotts came into effect, Nadia personally visited 175 LCBOs. ‘I got listed in near every single one of them,’ she says. ‘When this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity hits, you take it.’

These sentiments are even coming from outside the borders. Leaning Post was picked up by American distributors.

‘Our importer said, this is the best time – Americans have never heard the word Canada more than they have in the last few months,’ says Nadia. Most of the wine sold out on pre-order.

Team Canada

The rest of the demand was driven by an urgent sense of patriotism.

Movements like ‘Canada Strong’ and ‘Elbows Up’ (a hockey term, naturally) have become rallying cries for Canadians. Choosing Ontario Chardonnay over Oregon, and the Okanagan over California, has become an act of resistance, of patriotism.

‘Every time Trump puts an American flag on Canada, it hinders California wine sales here,’ says Henry of Pelham’s Paul Speck.

‘Every time the US government attacks Canada, we get more bookings, either from Europeans who want to support Canada or locals who don’t go to the US anymore,’ says sommelier David McBean.

He’s always had an all-Canadian list at Watermark Beach Resort in the Okanagan. It’s never been so appreciated. ‘We’ve had people who come in and buy cases as a way to stick it to the US,’ he says. ‘

Matthew Jacobson, head sommelier at Vancouver’s Fairmont Pacific Rim, removed American wine by the glass when tariffs went into place. ‘I doubled down and went heavier into my Canadian programme.’

‘It’s not just us making lists and forcing Canadian wines down people’s throats – we have people coming up from the States and apologising, pour me something Canadian.’

That said, he does have bottles of Napa Cabernet tucked away for guests with cravings – he is in the hospitality business.

‘But those are people who only drink what they know – it’s the same kind of person who goes to France and only eats at McDonald’s,’ he jokes.

Shaking off prior stigmas

It’s not that Canadian wine didn’t sell prior to the tariffs. It did, but it was just considered secondary to international imports – a sweet idea, but not serious.

‘Even for Canadians, BC wine has been stigmatised,’ says Jacobson. ‘People would come up from Washington and say – You make wine here?’

Jonathan Bauer, owner of Bar Allegro and Bar Pompette in Toronto, has always had Canadian wine on the menu. But prior to 2025, guests rarely ordered locally.

‘It was always a hard sell,’ says Bauer. ‘If it was ordered, it was by people from outside the country – European customers who want to try wine from Canada.’

‘People used to say, oh I don’t drink Canadian wine,’ says Christian Hamel, beverage director at the glitzy Toronto steakhouse Harbour Sixty. ‘It’s still a hand sell, but people are more receptive.’ To help him sell, he’s had Canadian producers open up their cellars, offering back vintages and rare bottles to fill the Cali gap.

Indoctrinating new drinkers

So Canadian wine has been selling. More drinkers than ever are choosing Canadian wines. The industry is booming even as global wine sales have slumped.

‘It’s a phenomenal opportunity,’ says Speck. ‘Vineyards are being planted. Wineries are investing in their business with capital equipment. We’re hiring. We’re helping growers plant so we can keep up with demand.’

But American wines will return eventually. What will happen to Canada’s newfound momentum?

Firstly, Canadians need to sort out some internal struggles. Canada’s tiered, heavily regulated, and archaic distribution system doesn’t allow wine to flow freely across the country.

In Ontario, it’s difficult and costly to purchase wines from British Columbia and vice versa. Canadian wines crossing state lines are taxed as international imports.

‘It’s harder to buy wine from Quebec or British Columbia than it is from France or Spain,’ says Bauer. ‘It’s a really strong opportunity to change that.’

But the groundwork is there. Canadian wines, from coast to coast, have only ascended in quality over the last few years. Regions have formed strong identities—producers aren’t trying to make facsimiles of other wines, they’re trying to showcase the terroir of Niagara, Prince Edward County, Okanagan, Nova Scotia, and Victoria. Drinkers are getting it now.

‘With the reduced availability of US wines, Canadian regions are stepping into the spotlight and sparking deeper conversations around site, seasonal challenges, and the influence of climate change, which is driving boldness and renewed elegance,’ says Henri Phrabawa, head sommelier at Riley’s in Toronto.

While Ontario Pinot Noir is different from Oregon, ‘I think people’s palates are changing to embrace that,’ Pennachetti says. ‘If it wasn’t for this nationalist curve, I’m not sure that would’ve happened, at least not as quickly.’

Will Canadian wine keep its momentum when Napa, Washington, and Oregon return?

‘We don’t know what will change when American wines come back,’ says Speck. He’s been training tasting room staff to match California drinkers’ tastes with their wines. ‘What we do know is that Henry of Pelham is in the shopping baskets of a whole lot more people who didn’t drink them before.’

‘Our sales are still growing at a crazy rate,’ he continues. ‘I feel like we’re getting to a tipping point for Canadian wine.’

‘It won’t go back to what it was,’ says Ilya Senchuk. ‘American producers are going to have to win back Canadian consumers. If it had only been a couple of months and it was all pantomime, it would be different. But it’s been a year.’

‘We believe the long-term shift is real,’ says VJ Gandhi, a California exporter of Canadian wines. She expected even her sales to drop, but they remain strong.

‘There has historically been a stigma that Canadian wine could not compete with California or Europe. That perception is finally changing. Once people taste these wines, they realise how expressive, balanced, and world-class they are; they keep buying them.’

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In January 2024, a cold snap hit the Okanagan Valley. The Canadian region’s temperatures dropped to below -26°C (-15°F) for three days straight.

Vine loss was widespread. 90% of the valley’s grape production disappeared. ‘There was nothing,’ says Taylor Whelan, chief winemaker at Mission Hill. ‘We had no harvest.’

The British Columbia government stepped in with a vintage replacement program. Winemakers were granted permission to source abroad so they could salvage the incoming vintages while their vines came back online.

What unfolded was a weird, wonderful exercise in resilience.

Chardonnay makers went to Sonoma, Pinot Noir producers to the Willamette Valley. Syrah winemakers decamped for the Rhône, Sauvignon Blanc experts to New Zealand.

Other vintners partnered with Washington growers, which helped alleviate the state’s oversupply issues.

The big freeze

‘What the hell do we do?’ was a question Shane Munn, winemaker at Martin’s Lane, asked a lot following the frost.

Replanting takes time – what do they do while vines mature? What will they sell? Do they skip a vintage? Do they have the inventory to do so?

When the one-time government allowance – authorising growers to source grapes or wine internationally, as long as it’s bottled in BC, without losing local benefits – came into play, winemakers realised the catastrophe could have silver linings.

Munn, who works with Pinot Noir and Riesling, started by making a list of famous vineyards he loved. It was a bit blue sky, he’ll admit. ‘We went door knocking,’ he laughs. ‘We basically said, “Hello, we’re from Canada.” Can we get some fruit?’

His canvassing was met with, ‘Who the hell are you guys?’

Once they explained their story (‘and people realised we’re serious winemakers’), those doors opened.

‘When you talked about the damage and how many vineyards died, people understood,’ says Whelan.

What they went through was a grower’s worst nightmare. ‘No one could imagine going through that – people were generous, from a fruit, wine, and human perspective.’

In came a new kind of flying winemaker. Whelan attended Wine Paris and met with growers from Bordeaux and the Rhône. Munn, to Oregon.

Tantalus looked locally in Ontario and sourced Riesling from Grimsby Hillside and Picone Vineyards, both planted with the same clones.

Le Vieux Pin, JoieFarm, and Fort Berens jumped the border into Washington.

Supply chain headaches

Opening up a globe of sourcing possibilities wasn’t without issues. It was a crash course in the global supply chain – where do you go first? If you’ve spent your career working in the confines of the Okanagan Valley, how do you learn the viticultural intricacies of a new region, and in only a few months? How do you get a 500-ton harvest across the world?

Whelan had to navigate reverse harvests and shipping bladders of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Munn and his team were in Oregon every week, checking fruit. ‘I didn’t want the fruit coming back like a Chopped mystery box challenge, like what do we do with this?’

There are more philosophical questions. BC is just starting to gain traction as a wine region. Will wines from elsewhere dilute that message?

Quail’s Gate launched a subline, Plume, in 2009 to explore new regions. Which came in handy – they were able to release wines from abroad without confusing regular consumers.

1 Mill Road, a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay house, skipped both grapes for the 2024 vintage. ‘We’re young, and dedicated to BC,’ says owner-winemaker Ben Bryant. ‘We didn’t want to blur those lines.’

Other winemakers welcomed the opportunity to play with once-in-a-lifetime grapes. ‘I’ve never made Cabernet Sauvignon,’ says Richard Charnock of JoieFarm. ‘All of a sudden, I have the opportunity to source from incredible vineyards managed by really talented teams.’

Munn was excited about working with esteemed Oregon vineyards – his vinemates are 00, Antica Terra, and Nicholas Jay. ‘I think it will be fascinating to try those wines side-by-side in a few years,’ says Munn.

It’ll be a stylistic departure – his Rieslings are typically powerful with lots of acidity. In Oregon, they’re botrytis-kissed, opulent, honeyed, and hyper-floral.

‘We have an austere climate here, with granite soils, while they have these lush, iron-rich soils that turn your boots red,’ shrugs Munn.

Playing politics

When the frost first hit, the United States was led by a different administration. Cross-border sentiments were positive. Trump’s tariffs were not on the table.

‘It was an incredible experience,’ says Charnock, who headed to Washington. ‘The quality of the fruit was so high. The growers and winemakers are so talented and seasoned. It was like having an incredible new sub-G.I. just south of the border.’

4,500 tons of Washington grapes crossed the B.C. border in 2024.

Jeff Andrews, owner of Trothe in Horse Heaven Hills AVA, had Canadian wineries come down, walk their rows, and taste their grapes. Friendships bloomed – they ended up not only selling grapes up North, but working on a collaborative wine with Clos du Soleil in the South Similkameen Valley. ‘There’s just so many really good, sensible winemakers up there,’ says Trothe winemaker Ray McKee.

But, to pile onto the plight of BC winemakers, US-Canada relations have soured. Pro-Canadian movements and retaliatory American boycotts have led the Okanagan’s countrymen to shun their American-grown wines.

‘We did a tasting with the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario),’ says Charnock. ‘Zero interest. They’re only interested in wines actually made in Canada.’

Which worries him. He’s got big reds from Washington sitting in his cellar, developing flavours. ‘We’re going to be releasing Malbec, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon made with Washington grapes in 2027 or 2028. Will people still care?’

Cross-border collaborations are now advertised with, well, caution. SpearHead Winery’s Dual Citizen line, sourced from Washington’s Yakima Valley and vinified in Kelowna, is labelled with ‘Made Before the Madness’ stickers. Lightning Rock Winery’s Cross Border Collection is marketed with #MakeWineNotWar.

‘People are a little cynical when you put an American wine in front of them,’ says Whelan. ‘But if you start with the story of what happened. The fact that we don’t have anything else to sell. We need to keep the lights on, keep people employed. It clicks for them.’

Building a better BC wine country

One year later, vines are recovering. There’s fruit in the valley. But the frost event bubbled up bigger questions. What varieties should the valley be working with? Are they planted in the right locations? What does the B.C. need to survive the future?

When growers and winemakers started getting wise to the province’s viticultural potential in the ‘80s and ‘90s, they planted everything. Sangiovese vines beside Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris beside Semillon and Chardonnay.

As the vines came up in 2024, growers approached replanting with a more strategic, surgical approach.

‘We’re reconsidering what grows well and where,’ says Munn. ‘If something is tough to grow in a frost bucket, why replant? We could plant other varieties, or keep cattle.’

‘It’s an opportunity to get rid of varieties that probably shouldn’t have been planted in the Okanagan – refocus on what does best from a quality perspective,’ says Whelan.

There are more conversations around climate-proofing, clonal selection, and water availability. Cold-resistant hybrid grapes are on the table. Retrunking and hilling up is now the norm.

‘We still have to step through some barriers and pain thresholds,’ says Bryant. ‘Sadly, some businesses won’t survive. But we will have healthier vineyards, better clones, and the right varieties in the right locations. When we get there, BC’s wine country will be a much better place.’

Okanagan’s Redemption: 17 wines to try

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Canada’s wine industry is young compared to that of many regions in the world, yet its evolution has been rapid and dynamic.

As climate change continues to reshape viticulture, could hybrids be the future of Canadian wine?

What are hybrid grapes?

Hybrid varieties are the result of crossbreeding two different grapevine species, typically European vitis vinifera with a native American species like vitis labrusca or the Asian vitis amurensis. They were originally cultivated for their resilience to cold temperatures and resistance to diseases and rot.

Ontario vineyards were historically planted to hybrids such as Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc and Baco Noir, which were imported from France, where they were bred to resist phylloxera after the devastation of Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century. The dominance of hybrids began to decline in the 1980s, though Vidal Blanc remains the province’s most-planted white variety, mainly used for Icewine.

Hybrids, both internationally and in Canada

Until recently, European Union wine laws banned hybrid grape varieties in Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) wines. Member states now regulate their use individually, and hybrids are widely grown in Northern Europe (and the UK) and are being tried in traditional regions like Bordeaux and Champagne.

New breeding programmes have produced Piwi (short for Pilzwiderstandsfähig in German, meaning fungal-resistant) varieties that require fewer chemical treatments. As sustainability becomes a greater priority, many see Piwis as a key part of the future of European viticulture.

Hybrid planting in Canada varies across the four major wine-growing provinces. Nova Scotia and Quebec mostly grow hybrids, while Ontario and British Columbia grow fewer.

In Nova Scotia, and especially in Quebec, a new generation of cold-hardy hybrids bred at the University of Minnesota with exotic-sounding names like Frontenac Noir, La Crescent and Petite Pearl, dominate the landscape.

In British Columbia, hybrid varieties Sauvignette and Petite Milo developed by Swiss grape geneticist Valentin Blattner, are grown alongside vinifera in the Vancouver Island, Gulf Islands and Fraser Valley appellations.

Canada also has its own homegrown hybrid variety. Originally known as V-53621, developed in Ontario’s Niagara region, the variety never caught on. It made its way to Nova Scotia, where it was embraced and renamed L’Acadie Blanc in recognition of the Acadian settlement of New France.

Past prejudice and present taste

Hybrids in Canada historically got a bad rap, with some winemakers and consumers believing they produce inferior wines. While this may have been true in the past, much of it stemmed from viticultural and winemaking missteps that produced wines with excessive acidity or ‘foxy’ flavours, which were unpalatable to both consumers and winemakers.

Modern winemaking techniques and viticulture practices have helped to overturn these characteristics, and a new generation of wine enthusiasts, unburdened by past biases, is embracing hybrids for their unique flavours. Winemakers also see economic and environmental benefits, and some hybrid varieties are well-suited to certain wine styles.

A sparkling future?

Bruce Ewert, owner and winemaker at L’Acadie Vineyards in Nova Scotia, views hybrids as well-suited to sparkling wine production.

Ewert champions L’Acadie Blanc for its resilience and ability to produce high-quality sparkling wines, and has achieved perfect ripeness and freshness with L’Acadie Blanc in Nova Scotia for two decades. The proof is in the results, with his traditional method sparkling wines earning international acclaim and winning awards ‘in wine competitions dominated by vinifera,’ such as the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Many Quebec wineries have embraced hybrid varieties for sparkling wine production. Some traditional method sparkling wines, such as the organic Domaine Bergeville L’intégrale from Frontenac Blanc, L’Acadie Blanc, St-Pépin and Frontenac Gris or the Léon Courville Muse Brut from St-Pépin, exhibit finesse, vibrancy and complexity in ways few still wines can match.

Dan Wright, winemaker at Vancouver Island’s Unsworth Vineyards, believes ‘hybrids are making quiet gains’ and that ‘consumers are seemingly indifferent’ to the increased proportion of hybrid grapes in his Charmat-method sparkling wine, Charme de l’île. Nonetheless, Wright still sees vinifera superior in viticulture, winemaking and economics, noting that vinifera varieties ‘enjoy more consumer recognition and command a higher price’.

Jonas Newman, winemaker at sparkling wine house Hinterland Estate in Ontario’s Prince Edward County, values hybrids for their consistency and reliability. He also appreciates how ‘lower farming inputs required for hybrids result in more affordable wines… making wine more accessible to new consumers’.

However, Newman acknowledges ‘hybrids will always fall short of the complexity and sense of place that vinifera provides’ but sees promise in new hybrid crossings, which are performing well in competitions… and hopeful for their future.’

Changing climate, changing grapes

Provincial wine laws in Canada regulate the use of hybrid varieties in appellation wines (Ontario permits 27 hybrid varieties, with British Columbia allowing over 50) and there is growing recognition that hybrids can produce wines with complexity and character.

Extreme weather events, such as wildfires and harsh winters in British Columbia, spring frosts in Nova Scotia, increased humidity and temperature fluctuations in Ontario and reduced snowfall in Quebec, are causing some in the Canadian wine industry to reconsider traditional grape varieties and view hybrids as a practical and economic alternative in the face of a changing and unpredictable climate.

So, are hybrids the future of Canadian wine? For now, probably not. Vitis vinifera varieties still dominate vineyard plantings and are on the rise in hybrid-heavy regions like Quebec and Nova Scotia.

However, hybrids will continue to play an important role by enabling grape growing in areas once considered too extreme and offering a more dependable option in established regions where climate change continues to test the resilience of vitis vinifera.

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The 15th annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C+), a four-day event celebrating the wines of the host site, Ontario, as well as those from international regions, kicked off on 17 July 2025.

A consumer-focused agenda of wine tastings, food pairings and gala dinners, hosted by regional Chardonnay producers, included a one-day School of Cool featuring panels and seminars on the Thursday before the weekend’s festivities.

This year I was honoured to be invited to deliver the event’s keynote address and moderate the first panel.

The three panels discussed topics that ranged from the ageability of local Ontario-grown Chardonnay, the importance of Chardonnay in sparkling wines, and how Chardonnay appeals to modern consumers.

My keynote, which follows, was a meditation on the place that cool climate wines and wine regions will take in the future of the wine industry.

As the world evolves, I discussed the role that both a changing climate and demographic shifts play in positioning cool climate wines, as well as the connections to natural wines and the inevitable evolution that is much needed, yet still to come, in the wine ecosystem, particularly in the ‘New World’.

The notion of cool

Framing the conversation, we think of ‘cool’ and those on the fringe. We think of Miles Davis, indeed, we think of Joel Strummer, we think of Jean-Michel Basquiat.

The Fonz didn’t wear letterman jackets; he wore leather.

Cool emerges somewhere from the dark corners and shines its brilliance on those in the mainstream. It doesn’t quite fit in, and frankly, it doesn’t want to.

Cool though, despite its lingering on the edge, is aspirational. I can’t remember what I wanted to be when I grew up, but I know I wanted to be cool.

A challenging climate

Climate is not just making cooler regions available to wine production, though it certainly is. Witness the rise of English wine, and the Puget Sound region of Washington, which is now seeing reliable success ripening Pinot Noir.

Perhaps more notably for this conversation, on the rise of ‘cool’. The fact is that producing balanced wines has become more challenging for regions that have a long history of doing so.

Picking dates are being pushed earlier and earlier, putting the phenolic ripeness of particular varieties into question.

Heat spikes during veraison, particularly in 2022, spelled disaster for some producers in Napa, where in a few cases wines were not made, and drove alcohol levels, even on the Sonoma Coast, up for Pinot Noir in particular.

In parts of California and Washington state, we see perennial overripeness. Wines from Washington’s Columbia Valley were 12 and 13% alcohol in the nascent days of the region. In Paso Robles, Tablas Creek makes wines in the 13% range. Yet, many wines from these warm regions push or eclipse 15% abv vintage after vintage.

In addition to rising temperatures, wildfires and drought are making wine-growing a challenge in places where it once felt like smooth sailing just a decade ago.

There is a mitigated impact for cool climate regions, but that doesn’t mean immunity. Erratic frosts and hail, as well as disease pressure, continue to pose challenges for wine-growers in the world’s cool spots.

The kids are alright

The rise of new wine drinkers presents an opportunity to re-centre cool climate wines.

Palates of younger generations and more diverse demographics of wine drinkers do not want 14.6% Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. They’re not impressed by the big, ripe, round wines of 15% abv with plenty of perfumed oak. They are looking for an edginess, taut fruit, crisp minerality and soaring acids.

Here I will propose something controversial.

There is a tremendous opportunity for cool climate producers to appeal to maturing wine drinkers who are coming over to fine wine, from their natural wine beginnings. Young people are finding the natural category appeals to them not just because of the buzzy packaging and farming ethos, but there is also something undeniably about the style of wines.

Say what you will about natural wine, it is a critical category – one of the few areas showing growth in the wine industry, a real bright spot.

If you drink natural wine, you see the markers.

Brightness of fruit, freshness, acidity – sometimes, it’s even volatile, but let’s be honest. You’re far more likely to have someone graduate from natural wine to cool climate wines than someone who gets into wine drinking Gnarly Head Zin. Overtly oaky and velveteen in the palate, wines do not translate to nuances of minerality and texture, and especially bright acidity, the way that many naturally made wines do.

When I’ve encountered fine dining programmes with a natural wine programme, their so-called ‘conventional wines’ tend to be from places like Pfalz, Alsace, Savoie, Burgundy and Oregon. There is a reason for this.

Cool climate wine regions should embrace and invite their natural winemaking sisters and brothers to the conversation. There is a synergy there.

As Pete Townshend sang, the kids are, in fact, alright.

The conservative nature of wine

In a time wrought with change, wine’s biggest Achilles’ heel may not be the ‘neo-prohibitionist’ movement or the tendency for younger wine drinkers to drink less; it may be its conservative approach.

Wine is ensconced in old châteaux and Michelin-starred fine dining; it has cultivated an air of exclusivity that has made it both attractive and unapproachable.

The wine world doesn’t adapt well to change.

Moving away from concentrated ripe wines from the established regions and producers requires the elevation of new palates. It requires a recognition that today’s young and aspiring wine drinkers aren’t looking for the same thing.

It’s not just on the media side.

Winemakers today are cranking out plenty of wines that top 15% alcohol; ‘letting it hang’ and ‘watering back’ are still de rigueur production methods in many parts of the winemaking world. It results in wines with cooked fruit flavours, opulent concentration and viscosity. Winemakers have been able to dial in precisely what they believe consumers or critics want, adding acid in an attempt to counter the ripeness overload they pursued in the vineyard.

The wine industry needs new critics, new voices.

Wine regions, particularly those making cool climate wines, should seek out, celebrate and platform up-and-coming writers and critics who recognise these wines for what they are.

Establishment critics are not going to change their tune overnight. The industry, as we now observe it, is still in recovery from the so-called Parkerisation of wine – extraction, oak and ripeness. Often monosyllabic wines. We’re still recovering from what has been a 40-year trend.

It’s anything but ‘cool’.

In closing…

The facts are that a changing world, along with shifting demographics and drinking habits, have the wine industry on its heels.

As the industry struggles to get its footing, my hope is that wine may find itself returning to its roots. It has always been in the ‘Old World’, a thing, albeit a fine thing, one that makes meals and time well spent with friends and loved ones that much better.

Wine can make life better.

The loneliness epidemic is real, and wine may be one of the cures. It’s not single-serving; it’s designed for sharing and if you’re sharing it with food, all the better.

The rise of Parker saw the US industry, in particular, evolve so that for many, the primary aim became achieving a good Parker score. I don’t blame him for this; it’s just what happened.

Trophies and works of human design are not the future of wine; instead, they will be wines that bring joy to conversations, convivial moments with friends, and meals with loved ones.

As my London colleagues might say, ‘Keep cool and carry on’.

The future of wine is yours.

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Today’s Ontario Pinot Noir is a messenger. Once tentative and searching, it now speaks with clarity of place, vintage and intent. After reviewing more than 50 wines, Magdalena Kaiser reveals how, after five decades, Ontario is at the dawn of a golden age for this captivating varietal.

With every glass, Ontario Pinot speaks of place – shifting escarpments and glacial legacies, breezy benches and sun-warmed slopes. Each sub-appellation and single vineyard has a distinct voice, revealing subtle variations in soil, elevation and exposure.

Yet beneath this nuance lies a shared pulse: a vibrant core rooted in limestone and the whispered secrets of ancient lakebeds formed thousands of years ago.

Through Pinot Noir, the landscape becomes legible – virtually drinkable. As the grape evolves here, so too does the region’s understanding of what it means to craft wine with a true sense of place. This steady refinement has been over 40 years in the making.

Scroll down for a selection of Ontario’s best Pinot Noir

Believers and sceptics

Since the first Pinot Noir vines were planted in the early 1980s, there have always been believers – and sceptics. That’s still true. Perhaps it’s no surprise: Pinot Noir has a reputation for being difficult.

But isn’t it often the difficult things that turn out to be the most beautiful once they find their stride? When given the space they so deeply desire? When they do, they seduce you, leaving you wanting more, teaching you a kind of patience you never knew you had.

Many top Burgundian producers say Pinot Noir has no inherent taste, believing this bewitching grape reveals terroir more than any other.

That philosophy inspired Karl Kaiser, co-founder of Inniskillin Wines [Ed: for transparency, the author’s father], to spearhead Niagara’s first Pinot plantings in 1983 after carefully researching how this variety could thrive in Ontario’s climate.

It was a bold move at a time when growers were unfamiliar with this finicky grape. His belief laid the foundation for a decades-long journey of refinement and discovery.

‘Karl had a scientific mind and a deep curiosity,’ recalls winemaker David Sheppard, who worked closely with him. ‘He saw potential where others saw risk. Pinot was part of that vision and was the variety he most admired.’

Research-focused, Kaiser maintained that clone selection, vine density, low yields, carefully timed maceration and restrained oak use were essential for producing high-quality Pinot in Ontario. Others soon followed.

While Pinot isn’t the province’s most planted grape, it is undeniably one of its most important.

Ontario Pinot Noir’s renaissance

Ontario’s top Pinot producers have been fine-tuning their approach, allowing the grape’s transparency to shine through. As a result, most expressions are moderately pale – a quality that’s now embraced. That lightness reflects finesse, not a lack of substance.

Most of Ontario Pinot is planted with Dijon clones 115 and 777, but clonal diversity has long been of interest. Importing clean plant material has been a challenge, but that is beginning to shift.

Producers like Dobbin have recently planted a mix of Pommard, Dijon 439, 115, 777, 828, and 02A (from Vétroz, Switzerland) in its vineyards with the goal of creating complexity in their wines.

Montreal-based Master Sommelier Elyse Lambert has watched Ontario Pinot evolve over the years. ‘It’s easy to find a good Pinot Noir in Ontario today,’ she says, pointing to the value, structure, and restraint now common among the province’s top producers.

‘Especially at the high end, they’ve embraced a “less is more” philosophy. These are not part-time Pinot makers. They love it – and it shows.’

France-based sommelier Alexandre Freguin, the 2018 UK Best Sommelier winner, agrees. ‘Niagara Pinots stand out – in their crunchy, perfumed fruit and their broad, silky-but-firm mouthfeel – but they’re not trying to imitate.

There’s a flinty, stony edge and vibrant energy that speaks clearly of their own place. They’re authentic, and that’s what makes them so striking.’

See all Ontario Pinot Noir tasting notes and scores in our database

A place of complexity

Back in 2010, assembling a lineup of Ontario Pinots from different sub-appellations was a challenge. Today, producers bottle numerous single-site cuvées, especially in Niagara, which grows the majority of the province’s Pinot Noir.

Yet the cooler Prince Edward County also stands out, with some of Ontario’s most distinct expressions rooted in exposed calcareous soils.

Thomas Bachelder, a devoted champion of site expression, believes Niagara’s complexity lies in its very bones. ‘Shaped by centuries of glacial movement and crisscrossed by creeks spilling from the Niagara Escarpment, the region’s soils are hopelessly – and delightfully – complex,’ he says.

To embrace Ontario means embracing its unpredictability. Vintage variation isn’t just a challenge, it’s part of the story.

‘Each year brings mood swings,’ Bachelder adds with a grin. ‘To love terroir, you have to love unpredictability. We’re midwives, not sculptors, and we need to let the wine decide.’

If Niagara is a shining star, Prince Edward County is its poetic counterpart: cooler, edgier and fiercely site-driven. Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run says,

‘Our Pinot could only taste the way it does because it’s grown here. It’s delicate, transparent, and we’ve learned to reduce maceration and our oak regime in order to allow it tell the story of this place.’

Few places in the world offer the precise conditions that fussy Pinot demands to strike that fine balance between elegance and power. It doesn’t tolerate shortcuts. It won’t let you hide.

It insists on honesty – and rewards those who pay attention. Producers are listening. They’re giving the grape what it needs, but not more than it asks for.

Ontario Pinot Noir is speaking clearly now, with stories shaped by a mere one million years of glacial activity.

Tasting notes for 25 top Ontario Pinots

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There are many tall tales around the origins of Syrah – also known as Shiraz.

One claimed that it was Rome’s legions that brought the grape to southern France. The soldiers had been in Sicily before and brought with them vines from the city of Syracuse.

But then Pliny the Elder claimed that it was a variety called Vitis syriaca that came from Syria.

Later still a legend emerged that its origins lay further to the east, around the ancient Persian city of Shiraz.

But the truth is that Syrah is a Rhône grape through and through. In 1998, DNA testing showed its parents were Mondeuse Blanche and a (now little-used) black variety called Dureza.

It’s a telling irony that while Syrah’s origin stories talk of it coming from overseas when it’s actually a Rhône Valley native, its modern story has been all about finding new homes around the world.

Let’s take a look at where Syrah has ended up, as well as delicious examples tasted recently by both the Decanter team and our expert contributors.

Scroll down for 16 must-try Syrah/Shiraz

Rhône Valley and southern France

Syrah’s home is along the banks of the long, drifting Rhône that wends its way from the Alps to the Mediterranean.

The northern half of the valley in particular is pure Syrah territory (occasionally mixed with a smidgen of Viognier).

It’s here, in the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, Cornas and Hermitage that Syrah achieves what many see as its smoky, spicy, peppery majesty.

In the southern half of the valley Syrah tends to play a supporting role to Grenache and other varieties, and this also true of the numerous wines produced across the appellations of the Languedoc.

If you want the Syrah experience without a price tag as steep as some of the best vineyard sites, however, then look to St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage for some increasingly delicious examples.

Australia

After the Rhône, say Syrah to a wine fan and they’ll probably mention Australia.

While on his travels finding cuttings to send back to Australia, James Busby remarked on this tale in his notes. Syrah was first known in Australia as ‘Hermitage’ or the older toponym ‘Scyras’.

But after EU protections were put in place a change of name was needed and ‘Scyras’ got a new ‘Strine’ inflection which, coupled with the old Shiraz legend, might be how the name has stuck the way it has Down Under.

Either way, the reference for Australian Shiraz is Barossa Valley, which the likes of Henschke, Torbreck and Yalumba call home.

Aussie Shiraz has a reputation for being bigger in every sense than its French cousins and while that holds true to a point, as with most varieties the current trend is for freshness and greater nuance.

And Shiraz is grown right across the country’s wine regions, with McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills among those with both the cool sites and old vines that make for a truly winning combination.

It’s also frequently blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as appearing in the classic southern European-inspired ‘GSM’ blends (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre).

Click here to see notes and scores for nearly 5,000 Syrah tasted by Decanter

Syrah around the world

There are few places where Syrah dominates in quite the way it does in the Rhône and Australia but its presence is felt globally – especially anywhere with a warm, Mediterranean-style climate.

Looking elsewhere in Europe, one surprising source of Syrah is Switzerland. This landlocked country is where the source of the Rhône rises and there’s a pocket of the Valais where it thrives in the sheltered mountain valleys.

It crops up in southern Portugal and Italy though usually as a blending partner. Across the Mediterranean in Israel and Lebanon there’s some strong Syrah and Syrah-led blends emerging with plenty of potential.

A land where Syrah is rising fast is South Africa. Since the end of Apartheid, its been one of the country’s fastest-growing red varieties.

It’s the backbone of the incredibly popular The Chocolate Block label and the pure-Syrah Porseleinberg, as well as the Mullineux-made trio of Schist, Granite and Iron which shows off some serious terroir flex.

Not to be out-done by their neighbours, New Zealand has a good line in tightly-grained, very elegant Syrah. Look out for wines from the north of the islands, especially Hawke’s Bay.

In the US, Syrah has never had the clout of Cabernet or Pinot but it has a strong, almost cultish following among its fans.

In California, it crops up frequently in Sine Qua Non’s eclectic range of wines and it has pockets of vines throughout the state.

It’s true US foothold though is Washington State, especially the Walla Walla AVA. Up in Canada, the southern half of the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia also allows for Syrah to thrive.

And finally, in the southern half of the Americas it is Chile that flies Syrah’s banner highest in both its coastal and mountain sites.

16 must-try Syrah

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‘You can close your eyes and taste Nova Scotia,’ Gina Haverstock tells me while describing the wines produced in Canada’s beautiful maritime province.

Now the chief winemaker for three wineries, Haverstock represents a broader trend.

Notes and scores for wines from Nova Scotia below

A new generation embracing the ‘cool’

A generational shift is underway in Nova Scotia’s wine industry, led by passionate, skilled leaders, many of them women. This transition signals both maturation and growth for an industry that began only a few decades ago.

Geena Luckett now leads operations at Luckett Vineyards, building on her father’s legacy. Rachel Lightfoot of Lightfoot & Wolfville oversees operations focusing on biodynamics and premium vinifera production, which was commenced by her father, Michael.

Not all transitions occur within families: Haverstock, who caught the wine bug 20 years ago, has been driving quality at Jost, Gaspereau, and Mercator Vineyards since 2018.

Together, they represent a dynamic shift toward world-class wines as the region embraces its cool-climate potential on a warming planet.

Better climate

Coolness is indeed the name of the game here. Early attempts at viticulture, such as that by early French settler, Louis Hébert, as early as 1611, failed due to the freezing winters.

Modern viticulture began with Grand Pré Vineyards in the 1970s and Jost Vineyards in the 1980s. The industry sputtered until the early 2000s but is now thriving.

At Luckett Vineyards’ bistro, Geena Luckett describes the industry’s growth as we overlook rows of vines and the magnificent Bay of Fundy, which helps moderate winter temperatures.

‘We’re seeing more growing days and a longer season,’ she says.

Luckett Vineyards focuses on provincial sales but has begun limited exports. Its traditional method sparkling wines, currently blended from hybrid varieties, will soon include a limited Chardonnay offering.

World class potential

Nova Scotia wines have taken great strides in just two decades. When I moved there in the late 1990s, production relied entirely on hybrid grapes.

Today, the new generation is bringing Nova Scotia wines to new heights, much like in New York’s Finger Lakes region last century.

Rachel Lightfoot, of Lightfoot & Wolfville, notes that, ‘a growing environment that was very much on the edge’ in the 1990s has become recognised for its potential.

She sees a natural generational shift, with younger leaders stepping up alongside newcomers choosing to make Nova Scotia home.

The result is ‘fresh perspectives and reinforcing the idea that this is a place with real potential to make world-class wine.’

Women leading the way

As a restaurant wine director, I noticed rapidly increasing wine quality in the 2010s.

A key aspect of this shift is the increasing prominence of women. Keltie MacNeil, Director of Sustainability & Community Engagement at Benjamin Bridge, says that, ‘more women in leadership are stepping into the spotlight, although they have always been toiling behind the scenes’.

She notes that more women now engage in operations, vineyard management, production, and winemaking. ‘We’re doing our best to elbow open those doors for young girls and gender-diverse people coming up right now,’ she adds.

Lightfoot also highlights female leadership, naming Beatrice Stutz at Grand Pré, Geena Luckett at Luckett Vineyards, and Ashley McConnell-Gordon at Benjamin Bridge as key figures in an industry where producers cooperate.

Haverstock exemplifies this trend. Last year, she won the Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaker Award, the first recipient outside of British Columbia and Ontario and the first woman to receive the honour.

At Benjamin Bridge, twins Ashley and Devon McConnell-Gordon assumed leadership in 2009. Since then, Nova Scotia wine has entered a new phase.

‘A new generation from several wineries is taking over or getting more involved at higher levels,’ MacNeil, their first cousin, observes.

Vinifera and quality on the rise

Haverstock, a Nova Scotia native, first worked for Jost and later helped launch Gaspereau Vineyards, where she and Hans Christian Jost introduced Riesling in 2006. She believes, ‘both hybrids and vinifera can express Nova Scotia’.

Local expert Mark DeWolf, editor of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale magazine, considers Gaspereau’s Reserve Riesling particularly successful.

The word is spreading. Blomidon Estate Winery’s 2021 Chardonnay won Gold and 95 points at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards. In 2023, L’Acadie Vineyards made history when its Prestige Brut Estate 2017 fetched the same honours.

Indeed, beyond still wines, Nova Scotia’s brightest spot internationally is its traditional method sparkling wines.

Lightfoot emphasises that: ‘Traditional method sparkling has already proven to be world-class.’ But, with its tiny population, ‘Nova Scotia can’t be the domestic market for these wines.’

Instead, they look to national distribution, as well as further afield in Europe, and Asia. Benjamin Bridge envisions its wines continuing to find a place on top restaurant menus in Canada, Japan, and the UK.

‘Nova Scotia wine will continue to refine and strengthen its identity,’ Lightfoot says. ‘Traditional method sparkling will showcase our region’s potential, and the Tidal Bay appellation will evolve as a true signature style.’

With a new generation leading the way, the future of Nova Scotia wine looks brighter than ever.

Tasting notes for four wines from Nova Scotia:

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While the immediate imposition of broad-reaching tariffs has been postponed, the Canada-US trade war is far from over.

Trump stated that the pause is meant to ‘see whether or not a final economic deal with Canada can be structured [that is fair].’ So while Canada’s concessions on border security spending appear to satisfy some of Trump’s demands, he continues to signal that more must be done. Moreover, what constitutes ‘fairness’ seems to remain unclear to all but Trump himself.

Canadian trade policy falls under federal jurisdiction, so constitutionally, Premier Ford has limited options for directly retaliating against Trump’s threats.

However, as Ontario’s leader, Ford governs the province with the most at stake in a trade war. Alcohol taxation is federally controlled, but its sale and distribution are provincial matters – making an LCBO boycott an easy target. Ford’s other big push was to terminate Ontario’s nearly $100m contract with Elon Musk’s Starlink, but that is now also on hold.

From an economic standpoint, Ford’s proposed boycott was more symbolic than impactful. According to VIVI Economics, even with Manitoba and Nova Scotia joining in, these three provinces consumed 2.5 million cases of US wine in 2024, equivalent to just 1.1% of US production. While some smaller vineyards reliant on Canadian sales would feel the pinch, the overall US wine sector could weather the loss.

Furthermore, wine accounts for just 0.1% of all US exports to Canada – hardly a critical bargaining chip.

From a political perspective, Ford’s aggressive stance aligns with his election strategy. Taking a hard line against Trump bolsters his image as a defender of Canadian interests. For many Canadians, boycotting US alcohol serves as a symbolic rejection of Trump’s economic tactics.

Ford will likely reinstate the LCBO boycott if tariffs return – not just as retaliation but as a political signal of defiance.

Canadian consumers might notice the absence of US wines, but they would adjust. While five of the six top-selling wines in Canada are American, most US wines fall into the ‘above-average’ category – widely enjoyed but not irreplaceable. They currently occupy 12% of LCBO shelf space, a notable share but far from dominant. Meanwhile, alternative suppliers from France, Spain, Greece, Chile, Argentina, South Africa and Australia are well-positioned to fill the gap, having already scaled back vineyard acreage to better align supply with demand.

Beyond the immediate standoff, this dispute has intensified Canada’s growing ‘buy local’ movement. The Ontario government has seized on the moment, urging consumers to choose domestic wines and spirits over US imports. This shift aligns with broader trends in economic nationalism, which have gained traction across Canada. The US share of the Canadian wine market has already been shrinking over the past eight years – this conflict only accelerates that decline.

So, while the crisis may be paused, US winemakers remain in the crossfire with no clear resolution in sight.

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When I told friends and family that we were travelling to Quebec, to share the driving and tasting along the region’s Routes des Vins (‘wine routes’), they looked surprised. Wine in Quebec? Who knew? Even the perplexed Canadian immigration officer suggested we should have visited France instead!

Yet in the French-speaking La Belle Province, proud of its roots and joie de vivre, it’s perhaps unsurprising that wineries (‘vignobles’ locally) have been blossoming over the past 45 years – as have the resulting wine routes to tour by car, bike, taxi or on foot (depending how much you want to taste). Dunham in the Eastern Townships (Cantons-de-l’Est) southeast of Montreal was the birthplace of wine-growing in Quebec in 1979 – although it wasn’t until 1985 that winemakers could legally sell their wine. The Conseil des vins du Québec now lists nine wine-growing regions with 165 wineries producing more than three million bottles annually from at least 80 grape varieties, mainly hybrids, but increasingly Vitis vinifera.

The recent boom has coincided with climate change and consequent warming temperatures in a region formerly more famous for Icewine. While Okanagan Valley in British Columbia and Niagara, southern Ontario, are typically most associated with vineyards in Canada, Quebec now boasts one of the country’s fastest-growing wine-producing areas. Quantity isn’t everything, though, and if it’s quality you’re after, then you’ll definitely find it in Québécois boutique wineries, many of which are just a joy to behold. Quebec’s winemakers are enterprising and experimental, combining traditional and modern techniques and more readily embracing an organic approach.

Sleepy villages

Heading east of Montreal through Montérégie, within 30 minutes the roads become tranquil and villages sleepy, with both wildlife and vineyards easier to spot. At our first stop, Vignoble Mas des Patriotes, France Cliche has almost single-handedly developed her certified-organic winery from scratch, without any previous wine-growing experience. Her 6ha of vines are all hand-planted, -protected and -picked – no mean feat in a region of extreme-cold winters.

Having overcome hurdles such as frost, mildew and greedy starlings, Cliche is one of the region’s few female vintners, with her white, rosé and red wines winning medals. Like most Quebec winemakers, she has found hybrid grape varieties (Frontenac, Lucie Kuhlmann, Louise Swenson, St-Pépin) to be robust, but also grows hardy vinifera varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Merlot, with the recent addition of Chenin Blanc inspired by a South African holiday.

The quaint town of Dunham, in the Brome-Missisquoi valley, is an idyllic base for exploring the surrounding vineyards, cider houses, wine museums, microbreweries and gourmet restaurants, many of which are farm-to-table.

A must-visit is one of the area’s original vignobles – l’Orpailleur, launched in 1982 by four partners, including winemaker Charles-Henri de Coussergues, who learned his craft from his father in the south of France.

Today, the partners and younger family members are just as immersed in the now-extensive winery, popular for its guided tours, viticulture museum and workshop (known as an ‘économusée’), restaurant, lessons in sabrage (the art of opening sparkling wine bottles with a blade) and 14 excellent wines, such as the unique, fortified La Part des Anges (‘Angels’ Share’), which matures and evaporates over at least six years in demijohns outside – it’s reminiscent of Christmas in a glass. An outdoor, self-guided trail with 27 information panels reveals innovations such as wind turbines, hilling-up (burying the base of the vines) and covering with sheets of protective material to guard against winter chill.

Another Brome-Missisquoi valley pioneer, Vignoble de la Bauge works with nature to reduce chemical use. Winemaker Simon Naud and his enterprising team are researching techniques such as training vines to grow grapes high off the ground, to increase ventilation and exposure to sunlight while also letting sheep do the mowing rather than tractors. Swallow and bat boxes are installed to reduce insects, and fruit trees are being introduced to enhance diversity and increase resilience in the whole ecosystem.

Our early September trip coincided with the annual Fête des Vendanges harvest festival held in the scenic lakeside city of Magog. This family-friendly event offers tastings, grape-treading competitions, live country music and food trucks – what’s not to love?

My perfect day in Quebec

Morning

Blueberry pancakes and home-sourced maple syrup on the sunny verandah of Gîte La Maison Bleue, a Friend of the Wine Route in Dunham, provide the perfect start to the day. Then visit Au Diable Vert resort near Sutton, where you can glide among the treetops on the VéloVolant (‘flying bike’), pedalling around a 1km circuit on a suspended recumbent bicycle – it’s unique in Canada, and the views are spectacular.

Lunch & afternoon

Craft beer and lobster rolls at Auberge Sutton Brouërie in Sutton are hard to beat. Follow them up by browsing the colourful town’s bagel bakeries, boutiques and wine shops. Then meander on a scenic road trip to the town of Mont-St-Hilaire, past vineyards, orchards and farmland, calling in at picturesque cellar doors such as Coteau Rougemont and the family-run Cidrerie Michel Jodoin, complete with its forest walk to a stunning lookout point.

Evening

Soak up some scenery from steamy pools at Strom Spa in Mont-St-Hilaire before checking into the wine-themed Hôtel Rive Gauche on the other side of the Richelieu river in Beloeil. Splash out on the tasting menu at Le Coureur des Bois, preferably at the Chef’s Table, with the pairing of rare wines from the restaurant’s Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning Aladdin’s cave of more than 18,000 bottles, some dating back a century.

Felines & flying pigs

In Hemmingford, at the new économusée at Cidrerie du Minot, we learned how the domaine was awarded Quebec’s first artisanal cider-selling permit as recently as 1988 and tasted our first ice cider – quite the revelation. Next door at Domaine des Salamandres, we discovered delicious perries and mistelles made from pears grown as a back-up crop in case vines are lost to frost, as occurred just after the first were planted.

The quirkily named Vignoble Le Chat Botté, or Puss in Boots, is a fairytale-come-true for former architect Normand Guénette and designer Isabelle Ricard, who realised their joint dream of becoming winemakers. In the warm sunshine, we enjoyed a lunch of charcuterie made by local food hero Jean-Simon Petit (widely considered Quebec’s finest butcher) with our wine tasting, which included a sparkling and a straw wine (the grapes are traditionally dried on straw beds). Isabelle designs the fun labels, many of which feature felines or flying pigs. She’s also a mezzo-soprano and is planning to hold vineyard operatic concerts in 2025.

Nearby, Vignoble Camy is owned by Fred Tremblay Camy and Isabelle Leveau, wine enthusiasts who struck gold, finding just the right terroir of fossilised shells and gravel deposited by the Champlain sea from about 12,000 years ago. Now their nurtured rows of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are not only growing in reputation but also increasing in production. Like the roots of their vines, constantly seeking and feeding on inspirational ingredients, the couple thanks shared knowledge from mentors such as Niagara winemaker Kelly Mason for contributing to their success. The cellar door is only occasionally opened, but their multi-medal-winning wines grace local hotels, stores and eateries, and even Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris – a prestigious honour for such a petite, young winery.

Winding back through the fertile Richelieu valley, east of Montreal, over our remaining week – past glittering shores to pretty Beloeil (make sure you pre-book for Le Coureur des Bois restaurant) and a day’s detour to the Centre-du-Québec region, with its easy cycling loops past farms with towering silos – we were continually impressed not just by the wineries, but also the cider houses and microbreweries, as well as fromageries and mead distilleries.

Of course, we packed as many favourite wines in our suitcases as we could before our return Air Transat flight. Today, red tape and small production volumes make it hard to get your hands on Québécois wine unless you visit the province. If that’s not a very good reason to travel to Quebec rather than France, then I don’t know what is!

Quebec’s wine routes

La Route des Vins Brome-Missisquoi is a 165km route in the birthplace of Quebec viticulture; the Montérégie Wine Route (see map) covers some 414km; and the Circuit du Paysan is 194km long. Break your journey with spas, hiking, beaches, kayaking, vineyard picnics and agritourism meals. Alternatively, you can take day winery tours from Montreal or Quebec City.

Your Quebec address book

Accommodation

Hôtel Humaniti Montréal

Stylish rooms, rooftop bar, pool and spa near Montréal-Trudeau International Airport, with delicious menus in Restaurant h3 enhanced by a 6,000-bottle wine cellar, about 120 of which are Québécois.

Hôtel Montfort Nicolet

A heritage property in Centre-du-Québec with spa, bistronomic restaurant (bistro food combined with gastronomic cooking), gardens and rooftop hot-tub behind the bell tower.

The BOHO Dunham by Kabin

The pioneer of boutique hostels in Quebec offers rooms above Brasserie Dunham, as well as three self-catering cottages.

Restaurants

Au Pâturage Espaces Gourmands

Famous for her appearances on TV series Les Chefs!, Chloé Ouellet’s farm-to-table restaurant in Ste-Perpétue, Centre-du-Québec, offers a fixed menu with homegrown ingredients and optional wine pairings.

Bleu Moutarde Bistro

In Beloiel’s old town, the riverside terrace below Mont St-Hilaire offers views as fine as the restaurant’s food and wine.

L’Espace Old Mill

Agritourism restaurant in Stanbridge East, just west of Dunham, serving gastronomic tasting menus with optional wine pairings, home to TV presenter, author and market gardener Jean-Martin Fortier.

Le Roy Jucep

This cheery Drummondville diner claims to have invented poutine, that iconic curd cheese, fries and gravy dish that sounds all wrong, but tastes so right!

Les Cocagnes

Every weekend from June to September, this agro-ecological collective farm in Frelighsburg hosts guests at its Country Table, providing ‘an intimate gourmet experience’ created by guest chefs who showcase products from local farms.

Shopping & leisure

Fromagerie du Presbytère

Cheese, wine and church, answers all prayers! In the village of Ste-Elizabeth-de-Warwick, buy in the shop across the road then eat at picnic benches in front of the church.

La Miellerie King

A buzzing distillery in Kingsey Falls with guided bee-to-bottle tours showcasing spirits, mead and liqueurs (from May to September).

Rose Drummond

A one-stop shop and café in Drummondville for souvenirs, wine, flowers, artisanal crafts and local produce.

How to get there

Air Transat offers direct flights from London Gatwick to Montreal from about £450 per person return economy for most of the year, or about £1,050 pp return for Club Class, to get you in the mood for fine wines and gourmet dining. Regional flights are available via Toronto. Hire a car at Montréal-Trudeau International Airport or from the friendly Enterprise team in quieter Longueuil. Audley Travel offers tailor-made tours.

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The 1970s marked the quality wine movement for Ontario and Canada at large. Riesling was there from the start, with the first vines planted in 1976.

As Canada’s largest viticultural area, Ontario currently has 18,000 acres (7,300ha) under vine. Riesling makes up approximately 1,600 acres of this, neck and neck with Chardonnay.

The Niagara Peninsula represents over 80% of all vines in the ground. It boasts Canada’s largest Riesling plantings by far and almost double that of the neighbouring Finger Lakes, also known for high-quality cool-climate Riesling in New York State.

Scroll down for 20 Ontario Rieslings worth seeking out

Classic conditions

Why is Niagara optimal for growing Riesling?

Before serious viticulture took root, the region was known as the Niagara Fruit Belt, which produces over 90% of the province’s tender fruit and is one of the richest fruit-producing areas in Canada.

Lake Ontario, part of the world’s largest freshwater system, moderates the continental cool climate, creating a Mediterranean-like mesoclimate during summer and fall harvest.

Winter-hardy Riesling appreciates how the lake delays bud-break and minimises spring frost risks, moderates hot summers and then radiates heat into autumn’s harvest for prolonged phenolic development in the berries.

The Niagara Peninsula has a complex topography and soil composition shaped around the Niagara Escarpment, a north-facing cliff formation peaking at 177m above sea level.

Old dolomitic limestone underpins the region’s geology, and 200,000 years of glacial events have created the diverse terroir that is evident in the delineated sub-appellations. Here, Riesling thrives, producing delicious fruit flavours in tandem with exhilarating acidity and moderate alcohol.

Pioneers and evolving styles

Not surprisingly, Ontario Riesling plantings were inspired by the region’s pioneering winemakers, many of Germanic and Austrian heritage. They brought winemaking techniques primarily focused on using natural sweetness to balance the electrifying acidity from this ‘New World’ region.

As a result, most Riesling was made in a range of off-dry to semi-sweet styles.

Interestingly, it was Cave Spring Vineyard, founded by partners with Italian roots, bet on the Riesling horse in the race to determine which varieties would flourish.

This pioneering producer has made its mark on the global Riesling scene for decades, mostly with off-dry to semi-sweet styles.

Other Riesling leaders like Charles Baker, Thirty Bench and Henry of Pelham, similarly – regularly win domestic and international acclaim with Rieslings that have a natural sweetness to balance the region’s bracing acidity.

Year after year, Niagara continues to be triumphant within this style range.

However, things have been evolving with Ontario Riesling for quite some time. Fifteen years ago, finding a Riesling made with less than 9g/L residual sugar was atypical.

I recall my mission of setting up winery visits for author John Haeger as he was researching for his book ‘Riesling Rediscovered – Bold, Bright and Dry’. It was challenging to find more than a handful of examples to fit within his dry criteria (9g/L or less).

Uncommonly dry

Coincidently, shortly thereafter, Ontario’s Riesling world changed. In 2010, winemaker co-owner Francois Morissette of Pearl Morissette gained a monumental following with his Black Ball Riesling. It was fully dry and a completely different expression of this variety for Niagara.

Gabe Demarco, winemaker and viticulturist at Cave Spring Vineyard believes that while Cave Spring’s original style became a benchmark for Canadian Riesling, they are not finished with their Riesling story.

Demarco is digging deep and questioning everything. He has transitioned all winemaking to wild ferments, and the winery is Canada’s first to isolate indigenous yeast in its home vineyard.

Soon to be launched is a Riesling aged in concrete, barrique-style vessels the winery had crafted from local limestone.

‘My mentor, Angelo Pavan, Canada’s iconic Riesling winemaker at Cave Spring Vineyard, has always encouraged me to push the limits of what’s possible,’ says Demarco. ‘Since I started working with him, he has always allowed me to experiment.

‘That, combined with the Riesling that Pearl Morissette started making in 2010, reconfirmed my suspicions were true – Niagara Riesling deserves bold winemaking with techniques uncommon in the region.’

Bright wines and a bright future

Others are following their own quests, proving that Riesling does not need a singular approach in Ontario.

Winemaker owner David Eiberg of Therianthropy is focusing on phenolic extraction in a natural wine style and fermenting his fully dry.

Dobbin Estate winery makes two styles of Riesling –each with different residual sugars, but in both cases, very textural. Multiple picks with some slightly botrytised berries, some skin contact, partial MLF, wild ferments, and a combination of stainless steel and neutral wood all contribute to their complexity.

Jake Skakun, partner and Wine Director at some of Toronto’s top wine bars and restaurants, including Grey Gardens, is happy to see this. He believes that pushing for a unified style of Riesling in Ontario could hinder the diversity of exceptional expressions.

He remarks: ‘I admire many delicate, off-dry Niagara Rieslings with bright acidity, balanced by just the right amount of sweetness. However, I am equally impressed by fully dry versions, where the region’s winemakers use techniques like lees ageing or malolactic fermentation to bring richness and texture while integrating the electrifying acidity.’

Last year, the Ontario Wine Appellation Authority, which certifies Ontario wines of origin with VQA, approved 156 still, varietal Riesling wines from 71 producers of the 194 wineries in Ontario.

Indeed, Ontario Riesling producers are producing multiple expressions of this variety. And this does not include the additional Riesling styles of Icewine, late-harvest, skin-fermented white (orange wine), and sparkling wine.

As Skakun says, Riesling has found a perfect home in Ontario and should be admired for its diversity. While the region’s dry examples are expanding the Riesling story, it’s worth remembering that those with some sweetness show exceptional elegance and balance.

With many vines now over 35 years-old, it’s inspiring to see a new era for Ontario Riesling – pushing boundaries, informed by wisdom.

Tasting notes for 20 top Ontario Rieslings:

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‘Shaped by two antithetical phases, 2022 was a unique interpretation of the region’s extremes’

‘This was a very strange growing year,’ reflects Costa Gavaris of the boutique Rigour & Whimsy label.

To most outsiders, British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley may be puzzling at the best of times. North of the 49th parallel, it is often mistakenly deemed cool climate.

Admittedly, winter can be frigid. However, summer temperatures often soar beyond 40° Celsius, and rainfall is scarce.

Above all, the growing season for fine wine production is typically compressed and intense.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the top 2022 Okanagan wines

2022 Okanagan Valley: 4.5/5

A record-cool and rainy spring eventually transitioned into a dry, hot summer with some heat spikes in the south. Throughout the valley, the prolonged, warm, and sunny autumn brought grapes to maturity. Across a range of styles, grape varieties, and subregions, the wines offer exquisite fruit purity and intensity, vibrant acidity, and balanced alcohol.

A year marked by extremes

Shaped by two antithetical phases, 2022 was a unique interpretation of the region’s extremes. According to Summerland’s RDC Growing Degree Days (GDD) data, the months of April through June were among the coldest of the last 25 years.

By contrast, the period of August through October was one of the warmest.

‘The cool, wet weather in the spring was initially welcome,’ says Rajen Singh at Ursa Major, ‘but by June, people started to panic.’

From delayed bud burst and shoot development to flowering and fruit set, the growing cycle lagged an average of three weeks behind.

‘It was tracking to be a rosé or sparkling wine year,’ asserts Rebecca Mikulic at Three Sisters, who was worried about reds not reaching phenolic ripeness.

The sudden arrival of summer in July brought dry, hot conditions typical of this semi-desert region. An uninterrupted succession of days in the mid-30s °C made August the Okanagan’s hottest ever on record, yet without excessive heat spikes.

Regional differences

The devil, though, is always in the details. Expanding 175 km from north to south, the Okanagan Valley varies markedly at its two extremes.

Spearhead’s winemaker Grant Stanley cited peak temperatures of a reasonable 36°C in the more northerly stretch around Kelowna. Conversely, in the southernmost subregion of Osoyoos, Moon Curser reported temperatures reaching 41°C and at the nearby Osoyoos-Larose estate, the mercury hit 44°C.

‘The heat in August ‘blocked’ version, and so some varieties only finished veraison beginning of September,’ states winemaker and COO Michael Kullmann.

With late veraison throughout the valley, the true saving grace of the vintage was the long, warm, sunny autumn. Daytime temperatures of 25°C persisted well into October.

‘We were still in shorts on 19 October,’ recalls Severine Pinte, winemaker for Le Vieux Pin and La Stella.

At Blue Mountain, Matt Mavety emphasises the importance of timing. ‘The reduced day length and the cooler night temperatures allowed a slower ripening of the fruit, thus maximising the flavour profiles,’ he says.

A sense of reprieve

The other crucial element is that the Okanagan Valley saw little to no smoke from forest fires in 2022, thus avoiding problems with smoke taint. Furthermore, issues with localised early-season hail, powdery mildew and damage from leaf hoppers were largely kept at bay.

The overall fruit quality was excellent, with clean, healthy grapes leading up to harvest. ‘The real challenge was not stuffing the vintage up,’ declares Shane Munn at Martin’s Lane.

For most, it was an abundant and late harvest. Garron Elmes at Lake Breeze in Naramata estimates seven to 10 days later than average. At Mission Hill, winemaker Taylor Whelan reports a start date of September 15th – a full month later than the scorching 2021 vintage with 20 to 25% more crop.

On the contrary, in Okanagan Falls, Alan Dickinson says that 2022 wasn’t any later than usual for Synchromesh.

‘I tried to react to heavier crop loads early in the season by dropping fruit and reducing berry size through less irrigation.’

White varieties and Pinot Noir were picked through to mid-October, with growers keeping later ripening varieties on the vine even as temperatures began to plummet. There were logistical challenges as grapes ripened at the same time.

‘All varieties achieved ripeness by a hair’s breadth,’ says winemaker Kathy Malone at Hillside in Naramata. ‘It snowed right after the last pick of Cab Sauvignon on 7 November.’

Late harvest

In Osoyoos, Justin Hall at Nk’Mip had to machine-pick Syrah in -2°C temperatures to get it off before snow on 3 November. Other estates left grapes on the vine well into November, with Hester Creek finishing up with Cabernet Franc on 1 December.

While most of the valley dealt with a bumper crop, the situation in North Okanagan was another story. A severe cold snap in December 2021 caused significant bud damage, resulting in a short crop.

In Lake Country, O’Rourke Peak Cellar saw a 30 to 40% loss, according to former winemaker Nikki Calloway. ‘Chardonnay and Gruner Veltliner were the most impacted,’ she notes.

In East Kelowna, Tantalus brought in only half of their targeted crop, and further from the moderating effect of the lake, SpearHead was down 80% in the estate’s home vineyard.

‘The small crop that did exist ended up being a little more concentrated and riper than a usual vintage,’ says Stanley.

2022: Michaela’s take on the vintage

My first encounter with 2022 was in the spring of 2023. Straightforward aromatic whites were among the earliest releases and showed pure flavours with lovely fruit intensity, vibrant acidity and alcohol kept in check.

Over the last few months, the valley’s more serious whites have been released, and reds are trickling out. Between judging at the National Wine Awards of Canada and tasting at my home office, I sampled over 200 wines, mostly blind, supplemented by visits to wineries in mid-August.

With a high level of quality across styles, grape varieties, subregions and price points, 2022 is unequivocally an exciting vintage demonstrating the diversity and potential of the valley.

That said, not all the 2022s are necessarily better than previous vintages. Managing crop levels and picking at the right time were vital. In general, the north and central sub-regions have the edge in 2022 – though plenty of great wines still hail from the south.

Furthermore, British Columbia’s second most important region, the Similkameen Valley, should not be overlooked. Adjacent to Osoyoos, it shares similar climatic conditions yet possesses its own distinct signature. I have included a few of my top picks.

White varieties shine

Representing British Columbia’s third and second most planted whites, respectively, Riesling and Chardonnay are among the vintage’s stars. Typically made dry or off-dry, the Rieslings harness the year’s penetrating fruit with piercing acidity, yielding many cellar-worthy examples.

From the Kelowna area, Tantalus Old Vines and Martin’s Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard are two of my top drops of the entire vintage.

Chardonnay proved its mettle throughout the valley. The wines sport varying degrees of oak but are generally deftly managed, with the best boasting sophistication and a sense of place.

Meyer offers an impressive range across the board, while Cedarcreek’s Platinum bottling from Lake Country throws a well-deserved spotlight on this northern subregion.

The vintage also presents a case for some of Okanagan’s less planted grapes. O’Rourke Peak Cellars and Culmina’s Grüner Veltliners come from opposite ends of the valley but are equally compelling.

Furthermore, the most purposefully hewn white blends are generally more intricate and nuanced than their single varietal counterparts (with Lock & Worth’s superb Semillon a rule-confirming exception).

Particularly successful are those modelled after the Rhône – like Le Vieux Pin’s Ava and Terravista’s Figaro, and Bordeaux – such as Blasted Church Small Blessings.

Compelling red wines

As for the reds, Syrah shone poignantly. Demonstrating the considerable potential for a truly unique expression, the wines combine ripeness with crunchy acidity and well-etched aromas and flavours that evoke the valley’s distinctive flora.

Alas, the devastating freezes of December 2022 and January 2024 resulted in a high percentage of vine death among cold-sensitive Syrah.

At the risk of causing a frenzy, I highly recommend buying abundantly from 2022. Rest assured, there is plenty to explore beyond Nichol’s Old Vines bottling, which received my top billing.

The smoke-free vintage was also particularly kind to Pinot Noir. It exalts gorgeous fruit clarity across various styles and subregions, from Spearhead’s silky, fruit-laden Saddle Block to more firmly structured examples such as 1 Mill Road and Blue Mountain.

In the lighter red vein, Gamay, which BC isn’t particularly renowned for, is likewise worth a look.

Click here for tasting notes and scores of all 2022 Okanagan wines tasted

Some mixed results

Among the Bordeaux varieties I tried, the results were mixed. Burrowing Owl continues to live up to its reputation for Merlot, though unripe or excessively hard tannins mark less successful examples of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at other estates.

A flight of Cabernet Franc was similarly grumpy at first but became more flattering as the wines opened. The Loire-esque Synchromesh and joyfully juicy Ursa Major were immediate standouts.

Additionally, both River Stone and Fox & Archer make a convincing argument for Malbec, a grape on the rise in the Okanagan.

Many of the valley’s most aspirational reds are crafted from Bordeaux varieties and have yet to be released. They will likely need time in the cellar to temper BC’s signature assertive structure.

Quality from top to bottom

Only seven wineries produced Icewine in 2022. Grapes were picked early on in November and December as temperatures dropped quickly and stayed there. Luscious yet balanced, Nk’Mip exhibits pristine quality of fruit.

Finally, the Okanagan’s most sophisticated traditional method sparklers are still ageing on the lees. Based on the lively acidities, depth of flavour and poised alcohol among the still wines, I would be willing to wager on bubbles in 2022.

Despite rumours to the contrary, the Okanagan Valley currently has plenty of wine to sell. However, a short crop in 2023 and a virtually non-existent harvest in 2024 means that 2022 will be the last vintage of any quantity for a while.

Given its breadth of quality, I’d say there has never been a better time to buy BC wine.

Okanagan Valley 2022: 26 of Michaela’s top-scoring wines

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Andy Howard MW, Christine Allen and Eugenio Egorov tasted 131 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 71 Highly Recommended.

Sparkling wines of the Americas: Panel tasting scores

131 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 71

Recommended 55

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release sparkling wines from any recognised appellation in the Americas, north or south – vintage or non-vintage, of any colour white, rosé or red, and produced according to the traditional or ancestral methods (ie, respectively, secondary fermentation in bottle or a single fermentation in bottle.

The judging panel were impressed by the outright quality on show in this tasting, from areas as diverse as the Niagara Peninsula and Nova Scotia in Canada down to the southerly extremes of Patagonia. At the end, Eugenio Egorov enthused about ‘the rise of American sparkling wine – a New World of bubbles’.

He observed: ‘A quiet revolution is underway across the Americas, and the results are nothing short of impressive.’ Andy Howard MW agreed: ‘The quality came as a surprise, with fantastic balance and precision in the top-scoring wines.’

Scroll down to see the top results from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Six nation tasting

This six-nation tasting traversed Canada, the US, Brazil, Uruguay, Chile and Argentina. It was no great shock that many US wines did well, with the long-established Chandon performing strongly.

And no surprise, either, that the Racines Grand Reserve Chardonnay gained a score of 94, given the involvement of Rodolphe Péters (of Champagne Pierre Péters) and Etienne de Montille and Brian Sieve (Domaine de Montille in Burgundy).

What did bowl the panel over was the quantity and quality of wines from Canada. Of the 79 Canadian wines tasted, three were deemed Outstanding, 37 Highly recommended.

Availability may be a challenge in the UK, but those in North America should celebrate the quality on offer in their backyard.

Ultra-cool climate Nova Scotia performed well (with the highly distinctive hybrid L’Acadie Blanc grape displaying its benchmark acidity in one of Blomidon’s wines.

But it was Ontario that provided the greatest excitement.

Two Niagara estates took top honours, with York Vineyards a particular shock as its first releases were yet to hit the market (due July/August 2024) at the time of tasting. These wines show the potential of this region.

York Vineyards is currently the only estate in Ontario (and perhaps in Canada) known to be focusing entirely on traditional method sparkling wine; barrel fermentation/ maturation and extended lees ageing here have resulted in some excellent wines.

See all the wines from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Bright future

South America didn’t perform quite as strongly, perhaps a reflection of the market driven, sharper price limitations on producers in Chile, Uruguay and Brazil.

Many of the wines are Recommended (86-89pts), but fewer shone as brightly as those from the US and Canada.

The developing ‘frontier’ regions of Limarí (Chile) and Chubut (Argentinian Patagonia) did show great potential.

The Otronia estate in Chubut was a great discovery. In the extreme south of Argentina (45’33’’) where the climate is cold and hostile, the first vines were planted in 2010.

The results for such youthful wines are impressive – great focus, purity and energy.

Egorov summarised the potential for the sparkling wines of the Americas: ‘As the global demand for sparkling wine continues to rise, and prices in traditional regions like Champagne and Italy climb ever higher, American producers are stepping up to offer exciting alternatives with more accessible price-tags.’

He concluded: ‘The future of fizz is looking bright on this side of the Atlantic.’

Sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Christine Allen is marketing director for distributor Maisons Marques et Domaines, particularly focusing on Old World regions, Champagne and sparkling wine. She has years of experience across sales, marketing and buying in the fine wine market, and is a DWWA judge.

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester.

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A four-hour drive inland from Canada’s mountainous west coast, in the heart of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, is Kelowna, an energetic city known for its stunning landscapes, sprawling vineyards and flourishing culinary scene.

Okanagan Lake is undoubtedly the city’s show stopper, as Kelowna sits on its right bank, at the approximate halfway point of the massive 135-kilometre (84-mile) north-south body of water. This picturesque destination offers a unique blend of outdoor adventures, cultural attractions, and, most notably, a thriving wine and food culture.

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Kelowna’s wineries produce some of Canada’s finest wines, benefiting from the region’s ideal grape-growing conditions – warm summers, cool nights and fertile soil. However, the city’s appeal extends beyond its vineyards; it’s bursting with top-tier restaurants and wine bars, making it a must-visit for gastronomes and oenophiles.

Tourism in Kelowna peaks during the summer when visitors flock to its beaches, hiking trails and wine tours. However, recent years have seen challenges that impact the flow of tourists. Seasonal wildfires have become an increasingly pressing issue, casting a pall of smoke over the otherwise clear skies and occasionally threatening the region’s vineyards and tourism infrastructure. These natural disasters have led to periods of uncertainty and required significant recovery efforts from the local community.

Additionally, Kelowna’s location, while idyllic, poses a logistical challenge for some international travellers. The city is served by a quaint international airport (YLW), which, despite being one of the busiest airports in British Columbia, offers limited global connections compared to its closest major hubs like Vancouver or Calgary.

Despite these challenges, Kelowna remains a premier destination for those seeking an immersive wine and dining experience. The local restaurateurs and vintners have cultivated a resilient spirit, continuously enhancing the quality by building a solid and passionate community that thrives on collaborating with local farmers and ranchers.

Kelowna’s top spots for food and wine

Waterfront Wines

Often hailed as one of Okanagan’s best, Waterfront Wines blends fine dining with a relaxed vibe. Chef Mark Filatow, also a skilled sommelier, crafts a menu highlighting local producers and showcasing the best the valley offers. Everything has an Okanagan connection, from house-made charcuterie to locally sourced produce and potatoes. His expert wine pairings, featuring primarily local selections, take each dish to new levels. This restaurant is consistently recognised in national culinary awards and illustrates the region’s top-notch dining.

Address: #104 – 1180 Sunset Drive

Bouchons Bistro

Bouchons Bistro brings a taste of France to Canadian wine country. Known for its classic French cuisine with a modern twist, this charming spot features French favourites like escargots, bœuf bourguignon, and bouillabaisse, all crafted with traditional techniques and local organic ingredients. The pièce de résistance? An extensive wine list with French and local Okanagan Valley selections. The cosy, rustic interior feels like a Parisian bistro, offering an inviting ambience that makes it a beloved choice for an authentic French dining experience.

Address: #1180 Sunset Drive

Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate Winery

On the west side of Okanagan Lake along the Westside Wine Trail, Old Vines Restaurant offers breathtaking vineyard views and a contemporary menu celebrating seasonal, local ingredients. Dishes like spring harvest salad, mushroom farro and Rossdown Farm cornish game hen showcase the Okanagan Valley’s flavours, using produce from the winery’s gardens and partner farms. The elegant dining room and expansive patio provide stunning views. For an immersive treat, book a vineyard dining experience and indulge in a delectable four-course food and wine pairing meal, available on select days through the summer.

Address: 3303 Boucherie Road

Home Block at CedarCreek Estate Winery

Set against CedarCreek’s beautiful vineyards, Home Block offers a delightful farm-to-table dining experience in Kelowna. Chef Neil Taylor’s menu features fresh ingredients from the gardens and local farmers, foragers and ranchers embracing the bounty of the Okanagan Valley. He lets the offerings dictate the menu, keeping guests continuously returning for more. With an extensive wine list showcasing CedarCreek’s finest vintages, each dish is paired perfectly for an unforgettable dining experience.

Address: 5445 Lakeshore Road

Salt & Brick

This small-plate restaurant offers a dynamic menu that changes frequently to highlight the freshest local ingredients. Salt & Brick’s innovative approach to dining has earned it a loyal following and critical acclaim. Each dish is crafted with precision and creativity, combining atypical ingredients – like Brussels sprouts, BC cherries, gouda popcorn, and beer cheese – for a memorable flavour experience. The restaurant’s intimate, rustic-chic interior provides guests with a warm and welcoming environment. With an extensive wine list fiercely dedicated to the diversity found among Okanagan wines, every dish finds its perfect pairing.

Address: 243 Bernard Avenue

Nature’s Table at Summerhill

Known for its biodynamic wines and unique pyramid-shaped cellar, Summerhill Pyramid Winery also boasts a restaurant offering organic, farm-to-table cuisine. The stunning views of Okanagan Lake from its patio are a bonus. The menu features dishes that highlight seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, many of which are grown on the winery’s organic farm. The restaurant’s serene setting, combined with its unwavering commitment to sustainability and quality, creates a dining experience that is both relaxing and memorable.

Address: 4870 Chute Lake Road

Maestro’s Mediterranean Restaurant and Terrace

On Okanagan Lake’s east side, Maestro’s sits inside the hotel at Manteo, offering a blend of traditional and contemporary Mediterranean flavours. Highlights include Sicilian arancini, Greek moussaka and Genoa-inspired shrimp scampi. It boasts an impressive global wine list, with white wine categories ranging from crisp, dry, and zesty to vibrant, alluring and aromatic, and reds that are light and earthy to deep, bold and intense. The terrace, with its stunning view of Okanagan Lake, is perfect for al fresco dining and is dog-friendly, with a special canine menu to boot.

Address: 3762 Lakeshore Rd

Gather Restaurant

Gather is genuinely one of a kind, infusing Italian and Korean flavours in the heart of Kelowna. The food draws from chef and owner Sung Ji Park’s traditional and not-quite-traditional dishes he grew up eating while also paying homage to his years of culinary experience in fine Italian dining. The wine list features over 180 offerings, focusing on Chardonnay, Champagne and Italian Reds to pair with small, medium and large plates meant for sharing, as is customary in both cultures.

Address: #105 – 460 Doyle Avenue

Basil & Mint

Basil & Mint presents a unique blend of West Coast contemporary cuisine, emphasising simplicity and freshness in every dish. While the choices are abundant, starting with the Caesar salad followed by the truffled mushroom risotto and finishing with apple-spiced sorbet with berries is a sure win. Wine selections are primarily local, with a few outlying international options to satisfy every taste. Ask for a seat outside; the tree-lined patio offers a secluded dining experience away from beach-going pedestrians.

Address: 3799 Lakeshore Road

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The Emmy Award-winning actor teamed up with Gary Briggs, Shawn Hiscott and Rob Steele to create Red Bank on Canada’s Atlantic Coast in 2022.

The brand launched last year, and it has been steadily gaining traction in the domestic market, so the team decided to begin exporting it to the UK.

Sutherland, who is best known for his starring role as Jack Bauer in 24, said: ‘The thing that I found so fascinating about Red Bank and this journey developing the whisky is the incredible pride Canadians take in themselves and their country.

‘I was born in England, and I know the British people feel the same, but I grew up in Canada and one of the things that I’ve admired about Canada is its great diversity not just in its landscapes and culture, but its people as well.

‘I am proud to have Red Bank represent all that is authentically Canadian, and I am absolutely thrilled to bring it to the UK.’

Master blender Michel Marcil, who has decades of experience in the industry, used rye, corn and wheat whiskies to create the final blend at a distillery in Nova Scotia.

The result is a ‘balanced, smooth profile that works a treat sipped neat, on the rocks, or in a good Old Fashioned’, according to online retailer Master of Malt, which will begin selling Red Bank this month.

The 40% abv whisky has a recommended retail price of £49. Red Bank is said to offer notes of oak spice, orchard fruit, allspice and caramel on the nose, with a medium intensity, buttery flapjack and a touch of pepper on the palate, and a long finish that features toffee and peppercorns.

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Winemakers and drinkers alike have embraced Gamay for its versatility, as well as its vibrant acidity and juicy fruit flavours, boosting the grape’s popularity to an all-time high.

Renowned in Beaujolais, where half of the grape’s 30,000 global hectares are grown, its best expression comes from cool climate regions, where the grape ripens early. It’s no surprise, therefore, that it’s finding its North American home in Canada.

But where it was once predominantly used and viewed as a blending grape, producers today are increasingly focusing on varietal and single-vineyard expressions.

Scroll down for 15 Canadian Gamays worth seeking out

Remarkable transformation

Canada’s wine scene has experienced a remarkable transformation over the last two decades. What was once a country famed only for ice wine is now being sought after for its varied offering.

‘It’s safe to say, “those who know” know that Canada makes some great still and sparkling wines,’ says Canadian writer and judge Janet Dorozynski, who works with the Canadian wine industry on international business development. ‘Perception has been shifting thanks to concerted international promotional efforts,’ she adds.

Canada’s own wine journey somewhat mirrors that of Gamay. Around the world, Gamay’s great handicap has long been its association with cheap and cheerful Beaujolais Nouveau. ‘It’s not perceived as serious,’ says Dorozynski.

But, thanks to more complex expressions coming from Beaujolais itself, bolstered by adoption in countries and regions as far-flung as New Zealand, Oregon, Chile – and Canada – opinions are changing.

Gamay is often overshadowed by the Burgundian varieties that thrive in cool climates, but it is emerging as an unexpected Canadian darling. Winemakers in both British Columbia (BC) and Ontario are crafting Gamay wines that reflect the grape’s natural attributes and the nuances of their terroirs.

Ontario

Gamay represents a mere 3% of Ontario’s VQA wine production by volume. While small, it’s much friendlier to make than its aristocratic Burgundian parent, Pinot Noir.

Ilya Senchuk, co-founder and winemaker at Niagara’s Leaning Post Wines, explains: ‘It’s much more like Chardonnay in the sense that you can do lots of different things with it.’

From rosé to a component in bold and structured blends to lighter varietal expression, ‘you can use the same grapes to make three or four different styles of wine’.

There’s no doubt that varietal expressions are where the grape is seeing the most growth. VQA Ontario reports that Gamay’s production volume went from around 170,000 litres to just over 300,000 between 2014 and 2023.

That increase was shared across 40 producers, up from just over 20 who included the grape in their portfolio in 2014. One in particular, Thomas Bachelder, produces eight single-vineyard Niagara Cru Gamay Noirs (and one blend) under his annual ‘La Violette’ release.

‘It’s a lovable weed,’ Bachelder says, referring to the grape’s ability to yield up to six tons per acre in a good vintage [roughly 114hl/ha – but dependant on planting density], double that of Pinot Noir. Bachelder’s Gamay portfolio centres solely on the Niagara Escarpment, spanning four sub-appellations.

‘We’re on clay and limestone, and so is half of Beaujolais. The lower half outside the crus, the Bas Beaujolais and the Pierre Dorées are the definitions of clay and limestone,’ he explains when comparing Niagara’s terroir to Gamay’s French homeland.

Senchuk adds: ‘There aren’t too many places in the New World that have a similar soil and climate to the Old World, but Niagara is it.’

British Columbia

Western Canada is full of diverse terroirs for Gamay, with expressions coming from multiple Geographical Indications (GIs), including Vancouver Island, Thompson Valley, Okanagan Valley, and Similkameen Valley.

The Okanagan’s valley floor is too warm to grow Gamay, so, ‘you tend to find most successful examples further north or at higher altitudes,’ says Ryan de Witte, winemaker at Rust Wine Co, which makes its Gamay from Similkameen Valley grapes.

‘We have two main things in our favour: a drying prevailing wind that allows us to farm the grapes with limited disease pressure and higher mountains that shade the vineyards at the warmest time of day,’ he explains.

De Witte is a former colleague of Ilya Senchuk at Leaning Post and was able to segue his Gamay cultivation across the country. ‘In Ontario, where the acidities tend to be higher, the wines require more barrel ageing. It takes longer for them to resolve and unwind. Here [in BC], they tend to be more open earlier in their evolution.’

Statistics from BC Winegrowers show that Gamay was once among the top five red varieties planted in the province, along with Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc.

However, Syrah took its place in the early 2000s. Despite being ousted from the top five, Gamay plantings have increased substantially over the last 15 years, from 57ha (143 acres) in 2008 to 103ha (256 acres) in 2022, a province-wide increase of 44%.

In those years, however, BC has experienced increasingly unpredictable weather, including growing-season wildfires and, recently, two back-to-back winters with harsh cold snaps in the Okanagan, resulting in a significant crop losses.

Dorozynski cites recently published VineAlert research, which has uncovered Gamay as one of Canada’s most cold-resistant Vitis vinifera varieties. It ‘warrants further study to assist with replanting decisions,’ she says.

A timely remark as BC’s provincial government recently announced C$70 million (£41million) to help producers replace damaged, diseased and low-producing vines, plants, and trees with climate-resilient varieties that produce in-demand, premium fruit.

Canadian Gamay is helping to reshape the country’s wine landscape. With its versatility, regional expressions, and resilience to climate challenges, the grape is carving a distinct niche.

It may help solidify Canada’s position as a serious player in the fine wine conversation. ‘Wineries need to put their best foot forward and make an effort to have trade and media taste and learn more about what makes Canadian Gamay exciting,’ Dorozynski concludes.

Tasting notes for 15 Canadian Gamays:

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Founded by Montreal-based Michelle Bouffard, DipWSET, Tasting Climate Change is international in scope. Held 22-23 January 2024, the 4th edition of this trade-oriented, biennial symposium brought in 30 experts from around the world to lead seminars and panel discussions for an audience of almost 400.

Bouffard led with a reminder that 2023 was the world’s warmest year ever recorded. She referenced the record forest fires across Canada, widespread loss to fungal disease in Europe and dire drought in Catalonia. ‘Even though we need to acknowledge the challenges, these aren’t the reasons I am here,’ she said.

Turning swiftly to the conference’s objective to explore solutions, she shared a report by France’s National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and Environment (INRAE), suggesting that agriculture, which includes viticulture, has the potential to sequester 41% of its carbon emissions through proper soil management.

The role of soil

Taking the relay, keynote speaker Marc-André Selosse, professor at Paris’ Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, gave a dense presentation of the composition and choreography of dirt. ‘Low water isn’t necessarily the problem,’ he stated, pointing instead to the ability of soil to retain water. Modern practices like ploughing, tilling and using pesticides and mineral fertilisers have diminished this and crucially reduced soil’s capacity to store carbon.

Carbon sequestration is one of the main goals of regenerative agriculture, a trending topic in the world of wine. Michel Gassier from Famille Gassier described the approach as pragmatic rather than dogmatic. It takes all the good ideas from ancestral to modern practices such as organic and permaculture to improve soil, increase biodiversity and restore ecosystems. ‘It is the only system we found that isn’t necessarily more expensive than conventional farming,’ he said.

Joining Gassier was Joseph Brinkley from Bonterra Organic Estates. With 344ha, Bonterra is the largest Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) winery in the US and fewer than 20 worldwide. ‘The strength of ROC is the social aspect,’ Brinkley explained. Besides farming practices, it includes a strict audit of how employees are treated, including receiving an essential living wage.

The importance of certifications

Beyond ROC, the numerous certifications were evaluated, with Bouffard noting that organic alone isn’t a guarantee of sustainability. Anne Bousquet from the multi-certified Domaine Bousquet in Argentina shared that B Corp, which assesses environmental, social and economic sustainability, was the most difficult to attain. ‘Certification is like a marriage rather than an engagement,’ she said. ‘It assures clients and retailers that what we say we do, we do.’

Regional certifications were recognised as having the most significant potential to accelerate change. Admired by industry peers as the ‘gold standard’, Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) – established in 1995 – was one of the first sustainability initiatives launched in the global wine industry.

The country has achieved SWNZ certification for over 96% of its vineyard land through a collective effort. Speaking on behalf of SWNZ, Meagan Littlejohn considered the entire lifecycle of a winery’s carbon footprint, asserting that ‘25% of emissions come from exporting and 75% from production’. She argued that New Zealand wines still represent an environmentally sound choice despite the distance they typically must travel, as low production emissions more than compensate for those from transportation.

The weight of the bottle

Bottle weight alone is the most significant contributor to a winery’s carbon footprint – 30%, according to Tom Owtram of Sustainable Wine Roundtable. ‘We have to bust the myth of heavyweight bottles being directly connected to quality,’ he said. To this end, Stratus in Ontario has moved all premium wine from 750 to 370g bottles. From the Comité Champagne, Pierre Naviaux reported that the new standard Champagne bottle has been reduced from 900 to 835g. ‘This sounds tiny, but multiplied by 300 million bottles, that’s about 17,000 tons of CO2 we are saving annually,’ he said.

A first-time partner in Tasting Climate Change, the government-owned Société des Alcools du Québec (SAQ) is one of the world’s biggest importers of wines and spirits. ‘Our buying power confers on us a responsibility and the ability to influence our suppliers and partners,’ said President Jacques Farcy. He reported that in 2022, nearly 85% of wine under CA$25 (representing 40% of total sales) came in lightweight bottles, lowering the carbon footprint by 6,000 metric tons.

Clonal diversity and a place for hybrids

Further sessions included focuses on varietal innovation and fighting fungal disease. ‘Aiming for zero disease is not sustainable,’ said Matthieu Beauchemin of Domaine du Nival in Québec. Olivier Sebe, who owns Domaine La Clausade in southern France, agreed: ‘We have to change our production to tolerate 20% loss.’ Here, Bouffard suggested drinking less but better to help producers be sustainable.

Both Beauchemin and Sebe farm organically and grow hybrids. For Beauchemin, hybrids are a necessity in Quebec’s humid climate. Conversely, Sebe planted fungal-resistant pilzwiderstandsfähig (PIWI) varieties to avoid spraying copper. While acceptance and interest in hybrids are growing, Europe’s appellations have long banned them – though even this is changing. In 2022, the French Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO) allowed mildew-resistant hybrid Voltis in the Champagne AOP for experimental purposes.

Nevertheless, lecturer and researcher at the Ecole Supérieure des Agricultures in Angers, Etienne Neethling, questioned if focusing on new varieties is jumping the gun, particularly when addressing heat and drought. ‘Can diversity of clones be a climate solution, especially in maintaining local wine identity?’ he asked. Most vineyards in France are planted with a low diversity of clones. He cited Chenin Blanc as an example – 4 clones represent 94% of plantings since 2005, yet 400 exist.

‘A polyclonal population gives a greater chance that one of those clones will be able to adapt to climate change,’ Neethling said. He compared plantings of multiple clones to a team of great players, each possessing different strengths and increasing protection against whatever direction the climate takes.

The issues with climate change are complex, and dealing with them is even more so. Conferences like Tasting Climate Change are crucial to furthering solutions. Yet staging a summit of this scale comes at an environmental cost. To offset the 53.38 tons of travel-related CO2 emissions, Bouffard contributed CA$1601.40 through NatureLab World to be invested in global projects such as tree plantations. ‘Compensation is not the answer,’ she recognised. But it is the best option for now.

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Only a 90-minute ferry ride from Vancouver in Canada’s western province of British Columbia (BC), or a 50-minute seaplane journey from Seattle in the US, a lush isle beckons with artisanal wineries and a unique climate. It’s Vancouver Island, a relatively unknown wine appellation, but a charming and convenient destination for enthusiasts.

While Vancouver Island stretches 460km north to south, most winemaking happens in a small area along its southeast coast – the Cowichan Valley, the island’s only GI sub-appellation, which surrounds the city of Duncan and extends between Mill Bay northwest up to Cowichan lake. Most wineries are on the east coast, off the Saanich Inlet.

How to get there

There are frequent flights to Victoria International (at Sidney) from Canada’s major cities (such as Vancouver: 30 mins, from $106/£64), but renting a car is necessary to visit wineries. Several daily ferries run from Vancouver (1hr 35mins into Swartz Bay, adults CA$17.20/£10). From Seattle, consider the seaplane route (50-75 mins, from about $200/£117 per person) or the Clipper ferry (2hrs 45mins, from about $99/£58 per person).

A short drive from Victoria – the island’s hub city and BC’s provincial capital – the Cowichan Valley is a breeze to navigate. The short distance between wineries – at most 20 minutes’ drive apart – allows for leisurely exploration.

‘Winemaking’ on the island dates back 100 years, first using loganberries (a blackberry-raspberry cross) to create fruit wines. The focus turned to grapes in the 1980s with the Duncan Project, a government-led test site initiative. Over seven years, more than 100 grape varieties were trialled before the government withdrew funding. Today, a vibrant community of winemakers produce a diverse array of grapes that reflect the island’s individual microclimates.

Warm welcome

Nearby mountains shield the Cowichan Valley from Pacific ocean storms from the west. The First Nations Salish translation of Cowichan is ‘warm land’, epitomising the area’s long, dry growing season with low frost risk. Thanks to a year-round average temperature warmer than anywhere else in Canada, the island’s climate is known as ‘Maritime Mediterranean’.

Hybrid varieties such as Ortega, Auxerrois and Maréchal Foch were the focus in the early days, while today – thanks in part to climate change – some Vitis vinifera flourish, particularly Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. However, Chardonnay will soon be the most planted white grape variety.

This potential has attracted international investment. California-based Jackson Family Wines (JFW) owns two Cowichan Valley properties, accounting for 53ha of the island’s area under vine: 130ha according to the BC Wine Grape Council’s report for 2022.

JFW family members bought Unsworth in 2020, focusing on sustainable vineyard practices. Disease-resistant cross-varieties developed by Swiss geneticist Valentin Blattner since the 1980s, such as Petite Milo, Cabernet Libre and Labelle, play an important role in Unsworth’s signature white and red blends Allegro and Symphony respectively. Its Charme de L’Ile sparkling wines (a trademarked concept used by Vancouver Island producers who make Charmat-method wines) are BC’s most accessible expressions of the style.

In 2022, JFW also acquired Blue Grouse, one of Cowichan Valley’s pioneering wineries. Its portfolio centres around Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and 30-year-old dry-farmed Pinot Gris. Annual production is about 84,000 bottles, set to increase to 120,000.

Plan ahead

While most of Vancouver Island’s wineries offer a year-round visiting experience, it’s worth planning ahead in the off-season, as some limit their tasting hours. At the same time, it’s common for restaurants to close on Mondays and Tuesdays. Averill Creek, about 12km from the coast, is a must-visit in winter when it offers its popular Alpine cheese fondue and wine pairing experience (CA$50/£29 + tax per person, reservations required). Its tasting room and outdoor terrace (when weather permits) offer stunning panorama views of its 13ha of vineyards on the sunny southeast-facing slopes of Mount Prevost. It’s the perfect spot to sip Averill Creek’s Joue Red, a blend of Foch, Gamay and Pinot Noir, or its wild-ferment Westholm Pinot Gris.

At family-run Rocky Creek, in tourist season 30- to 45-minute tastings are available at a modest charge, and spring and summer are best for enjoying an informal picnic on the patio with wine purchased. But even during winter you can still enjoy a stroll through the gardens next to its estate vineyards before enjoying a local Cabernet Foch or wines from international varieties.

While most of Vancouver Island’s wine comes from Cowichan Valley, there are vineyards elsewhere, such as in the Saanich Peninsula, where Church & State Wines has its satellite property. Best known for producing elegant whites and bold reds from the southern Okanagan Valley (mainland BC), Church & State’s 8ha island estate (about 5ha planted) is focused on sparkling wines. Try the traditional-method, hand-riddled Gris de Noir, which comes from Saanich-grown Pinot Noir.

Taste of the island

Vancouver Island boasts a robust culinary identity that draws foodies as well as wine lovers. Organic produce abounds and menus feature freshly caught Pacific salmon and succulent Dungeness crab, while farm-to-table dining showcases the island’s bounty of artisanal cheeses and grass-fed meats.

Wine festivals add another layer of allure. Averill Creek’s Noir Fest, in late June, celebrates Pinot Noir from across BC . In the warmth and full bloom of August, the Cowichan Valley Wine Festival spotlights local wines, dishes and live entertainment. Victoria Wine Festival wraps up the season around harvest time in late September, with winery dinners and events aimed at both consumers and wine trade. Whatever the season, and whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or a casual sipper, Vancouver Island promises unforgettable experiences.

My perfect day on Vancouver Island

Morning & lunch

Wake up to the gentle sounds of waves at Oceanfront Suites* in the charming community of Cowichan Bay. Stroll to nearby Leeward Cafe for a quick breakfast sandwich and honey-sweetened chai latte before browsing in the waterfront shops or, for the adventurous, taking to the water with Cowichan Bay Kayaking (+1 250 597 3031). In your rental car, head to Averill Creek to enjoy one of three tastings that you have already booked – guided, self-guided or the full package, including private vineyard and cellar tour. You could stay and order from the snack menu, or head where the locals go: Hank’s Cowichan, about 15 minutes’ drive away and a great sit-down stop for a homemade soup and sandwich. Alternatively from Hank’s, grab some Pickles’ Pantry paté or charcuterie items for an on-the-go snack — also to be found at the Duncan Farmers Market on Saturdays.

Afternoon

After a bite, continue to Blue Grouse Estate Winery, only eight minutes’ drive from Cowichan. The modern tasting room is inviting and boasts panoramic views of the vineyards. From here, a 30-minute drive south gets you to the Malahat Skywalk*, where a spiral wooden ramp leads up to a 32m viewing deck. Soak up the breathtaking scenery of Mount Baker and the Saanich Peninsula before taking the nine-second spiral slide to the bottom. Then make your way to the Mill Bay ferry to cross the inlet. The 25-minute journey runs nearly every hour until 6:30pm (from CA$32.60/£19 for car with two passengers).

Evening

After docking at Brentwood Bay, drive 10 minutes to Church & State to taste traditional-method artisan sparkling wines. Afterwards, check in and relax at Brentwood Bay Resort & Spa*. Dinner options include the pub (a great chowder of local fish and clams) or the upscale Arbutus Room, where you can savour seared Hokkaido scallops or Saltspring Island mussels.

For more details of entries marked with an asterisk (*), see below.

Your Vancouver Island address book

Accomodation

Brentwood Bay Resort

This waterfront sanctuary offers luxurious accommodations, spa indulgence and panoramic views. It’s a tranquil escape where elegance meets natural beauty.

Oceanfront Suites at Cowichan Bay

Perfect for nature lovers, Cowichan Bay is an idyllic and historic waterfront community with breathtaking views, known for its independent shops and cafés.

Parkside Hotel & Spa

A luxurious central spot in Victoria to start or end your trip, blending modern elegance with environmental sustainability in its spacious suites and rooftop gardens.

Food & drink

Alpina Restaurant at Villa Eyrie Resort

For menus that infuse local ingredients with traditional Alpine European flavours, accompanied by breathtaking 270° views of the Olympic mountains, Mount Baker and the Saanich Inlet, this is a dining experience elevated in every aspect.

Little Jumbo

A must-visit in Victoria for gastronomic adventurers, with an intimate setting and inventive menu that showcases locally sourced ingredients and craft cocktails.

The Lakehouse at Shawnigan

A serene hideaway with views overlooking the lake. It supports local distilleries, cideries, breweries, wineries and farms, so the menu always features seasonal dishes.

Things to do

Malahat Skywalk

An awe-inspiring treetop adventure en route to Cowichan Bay, offering panoramic views of forests and mountains for an unforgettable nature experience (CA$36.95/£22 per adult).

Victoria Harbour

Victoria’s downtown area features iconic attractions such as the Parliament Buildings and historic Empress Hotel, plus vibrant street performers along Inner Harbour. Enjoy scenic walks, boat tours and charming waterfront cafes.

Whale watching

At eco-friendly business Ocean Ecoventures in Cowichan Bay, get up close and personal with marine life with expert guides: a thrilling exploration of the ocean’s wonders (Cowichan Bay Whale Watching Eco Tour, half day CA$169/£99 per adult).

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Canada might be best recognised internationally as the leading global producer of Icewine, but there’s much more to elicit from this cool-climate wine-producing nation.

From elegant Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs to inviting expressions of Syrah and Cabernet Franc, plus bright and toasty traditional-method sparklers, Canada’s dry and sparkling wines are quickly becoming known globally for their quality.

‘Canada has small production of wine, but very exciting wine,’ explained Master Sommelier, Decanter World Wine Awards judge and Quebec native Elyse Lambert, noting the delicious Pinot Noirs tasted during DWWA 2023 judging week.

Scroll down to see 15 top-scoring Canadian wines from DWWA 2023

Excitement and quality abound, Canada saw its best Gold (95-96 points) performance to date at the 2023 competition – dry and sparkling wines carrying a mass of the nation’s 19 accolades in the category, with the provinces of Ontario, British Columbia and Nova Scotia represented.

‘These days, Canadian wines are getting a lot of attention,’ explained DWWA judge and Ontario native Andrea Pritzker MW. ‘There are some really excellent smaller regions, both in southern Ontario and of course British Columbia, that are really producing some phenomenal quality wines, white and red.’

The question: where to buy them? Pritzker added: ‘Although the volume isn’t huge, which means they’re more difficult to find, the quality is very high. It’s very exciting.’

Worth seeking out – or great cause for a wine trip to Canada – below, discover the top-awarded dry and sparkling wines which impressed the experts of Decanter World Wine Awards most, with more to seek out at awards.decanter.com

Canada calling: The wines exciting the experts now

L’Acadie Vineyards, Prestige Brut, Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia 2017

Gold, 95 points

CA$56.35 (£32.70) lacadievineyards.ca

Pretty and attractive, with white fruit, honey melon, chalky green apple and lifted floral aromatics leading to a palate of vibrant acidity, citrus curd and a fine, saline finish. Alcohol 11%

Ravine Vineyard, Brut, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario 2011

Gold, 95 points

CA$134.80 ravinevineyard.com

Attractive and inviting, with a perfumed nose of lifted white flower, buttery brioche and toast. Fresh, lively palate of toasted marshmallow, rich fruit and a pretty, creamy mousse. Alc 12%

Trius, Rosé Brut, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario NV

Gold, 95 points

CA$29.95 triuswines.com

Inviting and perfumed with an attractive nose of spiced red fruit, brioche and toasty notes, while the palate is graced with lifted citrus notes and a beautiful, bright acidity. Alc 12%

Marynissen Estates, Sparkling Vidal Icewine, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$74.95 marynissen.com

Lush, honeyed and opulent with aromas of grilled pineapple, burnt sugar, plush apricot and lychee, then a luscious palate of mango, tropical fruit, lime and rich peach. Alc 9%

Closson Chase, South Clos Chardonnay, Prince Edward County, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$75 (2021) clossonchase.com

Hints of smoky gun flint on an inviting nose, while a textured palate is layered with lean, bright citrus, crisp grapefruit, just-ripe apricot and a chalky, wet stone minerality. Alc 13.3%

Flat Rock Cellars, The Rusty Shed Chardonnay, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$35.15 flatrockcellars.com

Opulent nose, layers of toast, cashew nut, hints of struck match and lush vanilla oak. Textured palate of bright lemon, plush peach, supple oak spice and apple. Alc 13.5%

Peller Estates, Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$36 peller.com

Fumé-style, inviting nose of toasty oak and baking spice, then a textured palate of citrus curd and herbaceous blackcurrant leaf, tropical notes and very well-judged oak. Alc 13.8%

CedarCreek, Aspect Block 4 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 2020

Gold, 96 points

CA$75 (2019) cedarcreek.bc.ca

Spicy, small berry and plush cherry aromatics invite you to a pretty palate of crunchy red cherry, lifted floral notes, bright acidity and a textured minerality. Alc 13%

Hidden Bench, Pinot Noir, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2021

Gold, 95 points

CA$37.75 hiddenbench.com

Fragrant, bright raspberry, plush strawberry and pretty florals. Textured palate of flinty, stony mineral, light spice, violet, small red berry fruit, crunchy blackberry and subtle, fine-grained tannins. Alc 13%

Kacaba, Signature Series Reserve Cabernet Franc, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$60.15 kacaba.com

Opulent, plush and inviting, with aromas of lush dark cherry, cocoa, dark berry , liquorice and espresso, while the textured palate is graced with blackberry, spice and well-managed tannins. Alc 14.9%

Mission Hill, Terroir Collection Desert Ridge Meritage, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 2020

Gold, 95 points

missionhillwinery.com

Big, bold and inviting, with aromatics of graphite, plush black fruit, leather and spice. Textured palate with smooth, concentrated, lush dark fruit framed with graceful tannins. Alc 14.2%

O’Rourke, Waiting for You Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 2020

Gold, 95 points

ofestate.com

Inviting and aromatic nose, with plush red cherry, a touch of vanilla oak, black fruit, spice. Layered with opulent, lush black fruit and a gorgeous floral mid-palate. Alc 13.3%

Road 13, John Oliver Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$80 road13vineyards.com

Inky and inviting, with heady aromas of plush blackberry and blueberry, then a textured palate layered with lush blue fruit, vibrant acidity, mocha and polished, glossy oak. Alc 13.9%

Thirty Bench, Benchmark Red, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$86 (2019) thirtybench.com

Inviting, perfumed nose of spiced black fruit, roast pepper and graphite leading onto a rich palate of plush black fruit, supple oak and herbaceous leaf notes. Alc 13.5%

Thirty Bench, Small Lot Cabernet Franc, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2020

Gold, 95 points

CA$76 (2019) thirtybench.com

Fragrant, with pretty redcurrant, mint, chocolate and blackberry aromatics. A herbaceous palate is graced with intense fruit, leafy notes and lovely textured tannins. Alc 13.9%

Search all DWWA 2023 results

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Wine growing areas in Canada’s western province of British Columbia (BC) have been severely impacted by compounding climate change-related crises this past year, including an extended deep freeze last winter, ongoing drought, and widespread wildfires this past summer.

In response, the BC Wine Grape Council (BCWGC) recently commissioned an assessment of the BC wine industry, and it has come to some alarming conclusions. It reported that 29% of BC’s 5,132 vineyard hectares are estimated to have succumbed to winter damage. Another 30% are estimated to suffer from permanent viral disease and require replanting to avoid mass spreading, meaning that up to 3,032ha of vines will need to be replanted. Estimated costs for the replant are between CA$162m and CA$317m.

The BCWGC study urged the Canadian federal and provincial governments to fund the vine renewal programme or face a significant contraction in BC’s wine industry.

‘The challenges facing grape growers and winemakers today are unlike anything we have experienced in the past,’ said BCWGC chair Ross Wise MW. ‘Climate change disasters along with increased incidence of virus and disease pressure are threatening the economic viability of our industry and we need funding in order to combat these major issues.’

The BCWGC study confirmed an earlier Winter Bud Damage Report, which estimated a vineyard crop loss of 54% across the board, resulting in a 20% reduction in vineyard and winery employment (totalling almost 400 lost jobs), a CA$133m decrease in the total revenues of BC vineyards and wineries, and a CA$100m reduction in government tax revenues attributable to BC wine, with further economic impacts on wine tourism-related hospitality and accommodation businesses throughout the province.

Christa-Lee McWatters, the Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) board chair, said, ‘The replant funding outlined in this study is in line with federal and provincial investment seen elsewhere in Canada and is certainly warranted given the significance of the economic impact of BC’s wineries. In 2019 the total economic impact of the BC wine industry was CA$3.75bn with CA$440m in tax revenue alone.’

A WGBC news release noted that in order for the replant programme to be successful, industry stakeholders agreed that specific programme guidelines would be required to ensure the health and vitality of the new plantings.

This news comes in the context of a global drop in wine production, primarily due to extreme weather events. For example, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) recently announced that global wine production is set to fall to its lowest level since 1961 this year, hit by soaring temperatures and extraordinary flooding. Fueling that decline are expected drops of 12% and 14% in output in Italy and Spain, the world’s biggest and third-biggest producers in 2022, respectively.

It’s not all bad news however. Several BC winegrowers note that this shakeup is also a timely opportunity to plant better-adapted grape varieties in more appropriate locations than has been done previously. Winemakers are optimists by nature, so maybe there is a silver lining in this news.

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Telling people I was heading on a work trip to the Niagara Peninsula, in Canada’s eastern province of Ontario, the response was invariably ‘oh, for the Icewine’. Even friends from my birth city of Ottawa, Canada’s capital and a 5.5-hour drive from the heart of the winelands, were surprised that anything else would lure a wine writer across the pond.

Just as there are lingering outdated perceptions that all Sherry and German Riesling is sweet and old fashioned, it seems there’s still a way to go to convince the general public that Ontario has many (many) more strings to its winemaking bow.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores of 20 Ontario Chardonnay wines to try

While growers planted the first vinifera vines of the modern era in 1974, with the first winery licence post-prohibition registered in 1975, the Ontario wine industry didn’t really kick off domestically until the 1990s. The first wine (yes, an Icewine) didn’t hit British shelves until 2001, and by 2013 – only a decade ago – there were still only three Ontario wineries exporting still wines to the UK.

That number has since tripled, but boutique production coupled with high export costs mean that for many Ontario producers, keeping back an allocation for export, knowing it could immediately be sold to a captive domestic market, is just not a viable option. And, in a familiar vinous vicious cycle, this contributes to the lack of awareness of Ontario’s increasingly serious-quality wines, of which Chardonnay is the star, representing 9.4% of Ontario’s grape production in 2022 (data from Wine Marketing Association of Ontario).

To increase my own awareness, I recently spent a week in the Niagara region, about an hour’s drive from Toronto, getting to grips with its geology and geography, which is key to the elegance, structure, density and vibrancy of these ageworthy wines.

Niagara Peninsula – the lay of the land

Today, more than 190 wineries operate under Ontario’s Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) appellation system, with 100 of them in the Niagara Peninsula – the largest area under vine in Canada, with 5,500ha.

This is a terroir-driven region, and the winemakers regularly reference Burgundy when talking about villages, slopes, limestone bedrock and cool climate – perhaps natural given the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (both still and sparkling) they excel in. And like Burgundy’s crus, decades of grape-growing and research has identified 10 distinct growing areas.

Starting from the east is the Niagara-on-the-Lake regional appellation, under which sit four sub-appellations, with Four Mile Creek being the largest and St David’s Bench notable for its elevations of up to 180m. About 20km west, past the town of St Catherines and right along the shores of Lake Ontario, are the Niagara Peninsula sub-appellations of Creek Shores and Lincoln Lakeshore. Apart from St David’s Bench, all these other sub-appellations lie on the plain, the vines planted in a mix of loamy clay sand and silt. The area around the town of Grimsby, however, less than 1.5km from the lake, and whose limestone- rich hillside vineyards abut the benchlands, has a unique terroir and is in the process of seeking its own sub-appellation.

Rising above the plain, planted on a 30m fossil-rich limestone slope carved out by glacial activity and rising to 185m in elevation, are the benchlands of the Niagara Escarpment, home to three sub-appellations stretching across more than 25km, including the heralded Twenty Mile Bench and Beamsville Bench.

Finally, above them, just over the undulating brow of the escarpment, on a mix of limestone and loam, is Vinemount Ridge, whose east- and south-facing vineyards – the highest in Niagara at 200m – are unique.

Unique because all the Peninsula’s other vineyards face north, which might seem unusual in such a cool-climate wine region, but all possible because of Lake Ontario. In winters perfect for Icewine, the lake moderates the climate and also cools down the vines during the hot, humid summers here – the Peninsula shares the same 43°N latitude as Tuscany.

This moderating influence helps give Niagara Chardonnays in particular real grace and electricity through marked acidity. Winemakers are, in general, hands off in the cellar, preferring foudres and puncheons to barrels and tending to use less new oak in order to maximise sense of place and fruit purity. Long lees contact, but no stirring, tempers bracing acidities and also contributes to the wines’ texture.

County & Valley

Moving some 300km east, across to the opposite shore of Lake Ontario, you reach Prince Edward County, Ontario’s most northerly appellation and home to 29 wineries. Water surrounds its low-lying, low-yielding vineyards on limestone bedrock and stony soils, with cold winters and hot summers again moderated by the lake.

Burgundian varieties are predominant here, both still and sparkling, but Chardonnay has the edge, achieving ripeness at just 12% alcohol (12.5% in Niagara), but with similar concentration and nervy acidity, the best showcasing delicate florals and a distinctive flinty minerality.

If friends in Ottawa were unaware of the quality of table wines made along Lake Ontario, they will be even more shocked to know that impressive Chardonnays are being made on their doorstep. Some 250km north of Prince Edward County, the Ottawa River Valley is one of Ontario’s emerging wine regions, just a 30-minute drive from Canada’s Parliament. There are only a handful of producers, but the limestone-rich soils and warm summers are ideal for cool-climate varieties.

Ontario’s remaining VQA region, Lake Erie North Shore, and three other emerging regions produce good wines from a range of varieties but the terroir doesn’t suit Chardonnay.

I’ve spent a lot of time on terroir but, as every Burgundy lover knows, that’s what makes great wines. This was amply demonstrated at the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration, which marked its 13th year at its July event in Niagara, where more than 30 Ontario wineries stood shoulder to shoulder with others from across Canada as well as Burgundy, Jura, Italy, New Zealand, Germany and Chile.

Ontario Chardonnay, particularly those from Niagara’s benchlands, are world class – even if most of the world hasn’t yet had the opportunity to discover them. It’s only a matter of time before that changes. Until then, here are 20 to try…

Ontario Chardonnay: 20 top wines to buy

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As the summer season comes to a close and many wineries prepare for harvest, more than 400 active wildfires continue to burn in British Columbia, a handful of which the BC Wildfire Service designates ‘a potential threat to public safety’ in major cities, small towns and the vineyards in between.

Sparked on 15th August, the season’s most destructive wildfire – the McDougall Creek Fire – had the province’s wine industry on its knees. Spreading over 12,000 hectares (30,000 acres), it initially threatened wineries in West Kelowna. Amid the chaos, Quails’ Gate Winery prioritised safety and support. ‘When a fire of this scale and magnitude threatens your community, safety is the first order of business,’ said CEO Tony Stewart. After confirming team members were out of harm’s way, he added, ‘we mobilised our kitchen and operations teams and are incredibly proud to be preparing more than 600 meals a day for firefighters across five local stations.’

Less than two days after it began, gale-force winds saw the fast-moving burn jump the lake and continue spreading towards the Lake Country area, prompting further urgent evacuations and highlighting the pressing need for comprehensive strategies to address the escalating wildfire threat.

‘Wildfire events like what we are currently experiencing in British Columbia are scary and destructive,’ said Erik Fisher, general manager of Lake Country’s O’Rourke Family Estates. ‘Climate change is real, and producing world-class fruit and wines in an exceptional but marginal environment is becoming even more scarce and difficult due to our embattled ecosystem.’

Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) president and CEO Miles Prodan agreed: ‘Vineyards and wineries in British Columbia are facing climate-change-related crises on a scale unlike ever before,’ he said, recalling last winter’s freeze, which resulted in an estimated crop loss of 56%.

Catastrophic wildfire events are becoming a near-annual norm in BC. In 2003, the province’s wine country experienced its most devastating blaze: the Okanagan Mountain Park Fire engulfed nearly 250 homes, forcing 30,000 people out of the area and destroying 25,912 hectares (64,030 acres) of land. That was the year wineries on Kelowna’s eastern and southern slopes banded together, later sharing grapes to get bottles on shelves. It was also the year the term ’smoke taint’ entered many Okanagan vintners’ vernacular. Other recent vintages for which smoke taint has been part of the terroir were 2015 and 2021.

In response to extreme events such as these over the last 20 years, WGBC established the Vineyard Resiliency Task Group, with representatives from many of the industry’s major stakeholder groups – winemakers, grape growers, WGBC, the BC Wine Grape Council, the BC Grapegrowers’ Association and the BC Ministry of Agriculture and Food. The group recommends four priorities:

• Supporting a climate-resilient replant program
• Reviewing the Wines of Marked Quality regulations
• Modernising the industry’s data capabilities
• Expanding the Sustainable Winegrowing BC (SWBC) programme

Six wineries and 15 vineyards are now certified SWBC programme members, including Quails’ Gate. ‘As we learned with our certification, everything we do has to consider the broader impact, not only within our winery footprint but within our broader communities,’ said Stewart. ‘Similarly, the forestry agencies are doing the work to mitigate the risk of forest fires through prudent forest management, controlled burns, etc.’

A WGBC press release states that it is too early to know whether this year’s wildfires will affect the vintage. ‘There remain many unknowns, as exposure doesn’t automatically lead to smoke taint,’ Stewart said.

‘There are only a couple of specific wineries within the active fire area(s) that may have been directly impacted,’ said Prodan. Many others, however, have been impacted by the recently rescinded travel ban and ongoing evacuation orders keeping valuable tourist traffic from visiting.

‘Typically, restrictions are only in place for a few weeks, and in many cases, it’s a matter of sitting out that period and holding firm,’ says Okanagan Crush Pad founder Christine Coletta. In those instances, ‘it helps to have diversified sales channels and a robust online presence’ to ensure business continuity.

While WGBC focuses on bridging the gap between government policies and tangible solutions, actionable mitigation currently falls on the shoulders of winemakers and vintners.

For Coletta’s 130-hectare (320-acre) Summerland property, knowing firefighters focus on saving lives and structures, she said they ‘had to take matters into our own hands.

‘We removed any dead trees or trees that would cause fuel for a fire, installed fire hydrants around the top perimeter where prevailing winds would likely push fire, and invested in pumps and lines. We also have a restored pond on our property that we can pump large volumes of water from. And, of course, we have miles of hose, so we can move water to where we need it.’

As for the Okanagan Crush Pad facility, ‘It’s built of concrete with a metal roof, so we have done what we can to ensure our structure survives as best as it can,’ Coletta added.

The reality of vintage-specific challenges such as wildfires is not new for Stewart of Quails’ Gate, whose family has been farming in the valley for over 60 years. ‘It’s the nature of agriculture,’ he said, ‘and it’s one of the things that makes the world of wine so dynamic and captivating.’

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In recent years, Canada has emerged as a dynamic player in the wine world. First, establishing a global reputation for icewine in the 1980s, progressing to stellar white and red still wines, and most recently traditional-method sparkling wines that sit comfortably alongside international greats.

The country’s wine production is many things: a square-peg-round-hole market, with producers continuously experimenting. Canadian rosé is no exception.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 31 Canadian rosé wines

With an ever-expanding focus on terroir-driven winemaking, Canadian wineries are crafting delightful still rosés to rival international counterparts. ‘Increasing the level of commitment to farming specifically for rosé is where the rise in quality is starting,’ explains Amy Paynter, winemaker for the Okanagan Valley’s Liquidity Wines.

While the burgeoning quality and quaffable ease of Canadian rosé is not in doubt, that doesn’t mean there’s a flagship style – far from it. Across 7,300ha in Ontario, 4,500ha in British Columbia, Quebec’s nearly 810ha and Nova Scotia’s 255ha, no single grape variety, hue of pink, or winemaking process stands out as a national representation of rosé.

And nor should it, considering the nation’s vast size and climatic differences. At its widest point east to west, Canada spans 5,514km (3,426 miles). That’s the same distance as from London (in England, not Ontario!) to eastern Kazakhstan, or between New York City and Dublin. Similarities between wines from opposite sides of the world’s second largest country are few and far between.

See notes and scores for all 53 wines from the Canadian rosé tasting

From the sun-drenched vineyards of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley to the prestigious wineries of Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula and the maritime magic of Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley, each region brings a distinct charm to the world of rosé.

Variety of varieties

More than 20 grape varieties featured in a tasting of almost 100 Canadian rosé wines across Canada over three weeks in April and May – from the familiar Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot to Ortega, Dornfelder and Marquette.

‘The best rosés are the ones that are an authentic reflection of the producer’s style and ethos – perhaps as an extension of what’s already offered [in the portfolio],’ says Debbie Shing, founder of Quvé Group in Toronto, Ontario.

The Annapolis Valley, a region known for its cool coastal influences, is the most likely to feature hybrid varieties in its rosé. ‘Leon Millot and Marquette feature a lot because they can give a lot of colour with minimal pressing,’ explains Lesley Quinn, owner and operator of Stellar Somm Wine Experts in Eastern Canada’s Maritime provinces.

Although, she says, that’s starting to change, as consumers are seeking out more dry, paler-hued rosés with a crisp red fruit profile. ‘I am seeing more and more Pinot Noir being the grape of choice,’ adds Quinn.

In Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula and across British Columbia (BC), Pinot Noir is the grape of choice for rosé. ‘Pinot’s crisp acidity and bright fruit profile make compelling wines in BC,’ says the province’s top sommelier of 2023, Kelcie Jones.

Many BC producers, particularly those in the south Okanagan, utilise the climate’s desert-like heat to ripen grapes such as Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Malbec. At the same time, cooler areas in the province have had success with Pinot Meunier and Zweigelt.

Ontario and BC: the different styles

Of the almost 100 wines sent in for this tasting, most were from BC and Ontario – unsurprising considering the two provinces make up 90% of Canada’s wine production.

The BC entries covered four GIs (Geographical Indications), including Lillooet, Similkameen Valley and Vancouver Island and, within the Okanagan Valley, eight of its 11 sub-GIs. The rosés from Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula spanned eight sub-appellations.

The extensive sampling from each province allowed for a couple of generalisations.

First, BC expressions lean towards pale colouring – ‘lots of direct-press styles’, says Jones, with minimal residual sugar and modest alcohol, averaging 12.75%abv. A few were above 14% though still showing decent balance. Stainless steel was the dominant fermentation and maturation vessel, ‘which makes sense for accentuating the fresh, floral, delicate aromas’, adds Paynter.

Second, Ontario producers like to play with oak. Nearly a dozen bottles saw anywhere from four to eight months of oak ageing, prompting older vintage submissions that were still mostly dry, with an average alcohol level of 12%.

Overall, the standard of entries was generally high. There was one faulty wine but the other few dozen scoring 88 points and below that did not make this list delivered a relatively enjoyable drinking experience.

There were three main criticisms. First, many producers seeking a popular light and dry Provence-style rosé went too far, resulting in wines with a one-dimensional character. Second, those going the opposite direction and striving for a bold showstopper, ended up with disjointed aromas and flavours. Finally, while producers mostly managed residual sugar levels and acidity well, many wines were overly cloying, flabby or sharp, and lacking in finesse.

Patriotically pink

Despite its sprawling identity, one thing is clear, Canadian winemakers are taking rosé seriously. ‘We put as much hard work and passion into our still rosés as any of our other wines,’ explains Paynter.

‘Growing the fruit with the intention of picking it specifically for rosé is the best way to honour that seriousness. Creating a rosé from grapes grown with the intent of making a red wine means you’re going to miss out on so many of the delicate nuances and prettiness that make rosé wines shine.’

Canada’s vast size and climatic differences contribute to an exciting variety of rosés, each with regional style and individual charm. Canada Day and the summer months ahead are obvious times to raise a glass of patriotic pink, but they are deserving of a toast at any time of year.

Smoke taint and the rosé solution

Despite Canada’s cool-climate reputation, there’s growing uncertainty with climate change, specifically, the impact of forest fires and resulting smoke-tainted grapes.

‘Rosé production is a valuable tool in the kit for British Columbia’s winemakers,’ says top sommelier Kelcie Jones. ‘It offers them a wine from otherwise challenging vintages – making lemonade out of lemons.’

Rajen Toor, owner and winemaker at Ursa Major Wines in south Okanagan, made his first rosé from smoke-tainted grapes in 2021 after a devastating summer season. Almost 500 wildfires were burning across the province on 1 July that year, prompting the provincial government to declare a state of emergency by 20 July, which did not end until mid-September.

‘It comes down to dollars and cents,’ explains Toor. ‘If there are grapes on the vine affected by smoke or anything else for that matter, you bet we’re getting creative and turning them into something.’

Ways to make rosé

While some rosés are made by the saignée method – making a red wine but bleeding some of the juice from the tank to ferment separately as rosé – for lighter-hued, less rich wines, winemakers usually choose to skin macerate or direct press.

For the former method, grapes are crushed and the juice is left on the skins for several hours up to a few days to achieve the desired colour. In direct pressing, the grapes are pressed right away – as most white wines are – to avoid the juice having any time to absorb colour from the skins.

Direct pressing smoke-affected red grapes is the only way to mitigate smoke-tainted aromas and flavours such as ashtray, campfire or matchstick, says Toor. Smoke-taint can override the rest of the grape’s natural varietal characters ‘and, in rosé, the idea is always freshness and subtlety’.

‘It’s a risky choice,’ says Jones, ‘and not necessarily a financially easy decision to make.’ As rosés are usually consumed young and not kept, as red wines may be, they often don’t show the effects of any residual smoke taint which may be accentuated with bottle age.

Canadian rosé: 31 wines to try

The following wines all scored 90 points or above. For others scoring 89 points, click here

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While Canadians have long known of the charms of Calgary, the global appeal of Alberta’s largest city really kicked off in 1988 when it played host to the XV Winter Olympics.

With its 333 days of sunshine a year and the snow-capped Rocky Mountains and resort towns of Banff, Lake Louise and Canmore all between one and two hours’ drive away, it’s no surprise that travellers are continuously arriving at Calgary’s international airport.

Now welcoming three million visitors annually, Calgary was ranked alongside Zürich, Switzerland, as the third most liveable city in the world in 2022.

The city also boasts the world-famous Calgary Stampede (this year from 7-16 July), where many downtown offices close so residents can immerse themselves in the two-week rodeo festival.

Alberta is Canada’s beef capital, so whether grilled or braised bourguignon-style, home-grown beef is central to Calgary’s culinary scene.

Traditional steak houses – including long-time institutions such as Hy’s – abound, but there’s so much more, from fine dining to gourmet grub. It’s not difficult to venture into a vegan joint, wander into a wine bar, or stroll to find the freshest sushi this side of the Rockies.

Calgary’s bar and restaurant scene is in constant evolution, highlighting creativity and indulging even the most global of taste buds. For food and wine lovers, the choice is as vast and enthralling as the surrounding pristine wilderness.

Calgary: 10 top restaurants and wine bars

Bridgette Bar

This rustic-chic, chef-driven bar elevates comfort food, with equal emphasis on veggie offerings as meaty ones. Grilling, charring and roasting is the preferred cooking method, from carrots to cod and eggplant fries to endive salad. A thoughtful wine list includes by-the-glass pours from classic regions like Bordeaux, Priorat, New Zealand and Chablis, but also wines that scratch a different itch, such as a Xarel•lo from Catalonia. Go between 2pm and 5pm to enjoy snacks-only dining and drink deals, or stay longer to peruse the curated cellar list. No bottles are over £200 (CA$320).

Clincher Reserve the three seats at the chef’s bar for an up-close, open-flame kitchen experience.

Address 739 10 Avenue SW, Calgary

DOP

This cosy Italian restaurant is so tiny and unpresuming, you could easily walk right past it. But that would be a shame. Inside, guests bump elbows while the kitchen delivers old family recipes such as nonna’s meatballs with handmade pasta. Its name, standing for Denominazione di Origine Protetta (Protected Designation of Origin), is a nod to Italy’s appellation laws for food and wine, where quality is all, fresh is best and products are shipped directly from Italy when necessary. The wine list is all-Italian too, from heavyweights like Barolo and Chianti Classico to lesser-known grapes like Vespolina.

Clincher It’s an all-woman front-of-house, led by general manager Kayla Blomquist and bar manager Priya Kaila.

Address 1005A 1 Street SW, Calgary

Eight

There’s a shroud of mystery surrounding this restaurant. Reservations only open a few times a year for just eight seats an evening, and the in-demand 15-course degustation is booked months in advance. Eight typically hosts three seatings a week on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, with Michelin-rated chefs from around the globe participating in the chef exchange. The diversity of Canada’s cuisine threads the seasonally changing menu from start to finish. From British Columbia to Nova Scotia, ingredients that form Canada’s cultural mosaic are flown in, spurring conversation across the intimate table overlooking the kitchen. The £185 (CA$285) fixed-price experience – not including wine pairings – isn’t cheap but explores what Canadian food really is.

Clincher Chef Darren MacLean was a finalist on the 2018 Netflix global cooking competition The Final Table.

Address 631 Confluence Way SE (inside Alt Hotel), Calgary

Flores & Pine

The vibe in this open-air dining room is best described as country-club casual, with the kitchen focusing on seasonally inspired, locally sourced ingredients. Located on the city’s northwest edge, it’s the perfect stop on the way to or from a day on the mountains or an upscale Sunday brunch option for suburbanites. The wine list highlights a variety of regions, with a handful of Canadian whites and reds in the mix. Rare, collectable, premium wines are offered by 30ml pours at a market price using a WineStation preservation system.

Clincher Bottles of wine are half-price on Wednesdays.

Address 254028 Bearspaw Road, Calgary

Major Tom

There’s nothing like the spine-tingle you get the instant you walk off the elevator and into the Major Tom dining room, on the 40th floor above Calgary’s iconic Stephen Avenue. Drink in the buzz and admire the glitz and glam as guests clink cocktails and enjoy classic dishes with a contemporary twist, like steak frites with an endive Waldorf salad followed by an ‘Old Fashioned’ baked Alaska. The wine selection, listed from lightest- to heaviest-bodied, includes a separate section for chilled reds as well as abundant organic and biodynamic options.

Clincher Go for Golden Hour, between 3pm and 5pm, for 25% off glass pours.

Address 700 2 Street SW, Calgary

Pigeonhole

From charred cabbage and jalapeño cream to ricotta dumplings in tomato-leaf pesto and even a caviar service, Pigeonhole’s food menu is eclectic. And the wine list is too, with by-the-glass offerings including an Austrian skin-contact Pinot Gris and an Olaszrizling-Sauvignon Blanc blend from Hungary. These multinational food and wine offerings are as welcoming as the setting – previously home to Calgary’s storied Victoria’s Restaurant.

Clincher Sherry fans rejoice: manzanilla (120ml), amontillado (60ml), oloroso (60ml) and cream (20ml) all grace the by-the-glass list.

Address 306 17th Avenue SW, Calgary

Teatro

Housed in the historic Dominion Bank, built in 1911, every step of the dining experience here reflects the past but confidently embraces modern Italian fine dining. The award-winning wine cellar in the building’s former bank vault is home to more than 10,000 bottles, with a focus on Italy and Bordeaux. The impressive list of almost 100 sparkling wines includes a range of Champagne formats to suit most palates and budgets (£75-£920 / CA$125-$1,500).

Clincher Half-price sparkling wine (by the glass and bottle) from 2pm to 4.30pm Monday to Friday. No corkage on Sundays.

Address 200 8th Avenue SE, Calgary

Ten Foot Henry

The menu at this modest, convivial restaurant is a vegetarian’s dream, with reliable favourites like whipped feta and tomatoes on sourdough toast, and roasted cauliflower with spicy gochujang. For carnivorous diners, it’s an eclectic mix, from pickerel (a freshwater fish) to sirloin steak. There’s zero pretension here, reflected in the wine list, which hits notes of surprise with a Pinot Noir rosé from Germany’s Rheinghau, a skin-contact Pinot Blanc-Viognier blend from Canada’s Okanagan Valley and a bargain-busting Portuguese red for under £6 (CA$11) by the glass.

Clincher Open for lunch and dinner daily, with an additional weekend brunch menu.

Address 1209 1st Street NW, Calgary

The Nash

Inside the elegantly renovated historic National Hotel, you’ll find a celebration of upscale comfort food, from juicy burgers with tarragon-mustard aioli to a half rotisserie chicken with brown butter sauce. And not forgetting the one-of-a-kind brunch menu featuring breakfast pizza with sunny-side eggs. On the wine front, The Nash takes the guesswork out of ordering and categorises its list by style, from light, refreshing, crisp whites to rich, bold, full-bodied reds.

Clincher Visit on Thursdays from 7pm to 9pm for live music in the Off Cut Bar.

Address 925 11 Street SE, Calgary

Winebar Kensington

Wine lovers will find comfort here, regardless of the season. In summer, grab a patio seat, order a chilled bottle and people-watch while snacking on New Brunswick oysters with fermented jalapeño hot sauce or a charcuterie board with house-made pickles and preserves. In the winter, descend into the cosy dining room (it’s located below Brasserie Kensington) and indulge in lentil bolognese or beer-braised lamb shank. The sparkling wine list deserves attention, including a Vancouver Island Pinot Gris, a Xinomavro-Malagousia-Assyrtiko blend from Greece and even a non-alcoholic Blanc de Blancs.

Clincher All bottles (excluding by-the-glass-pour bottles) are half price on Sundays.

Address 1131 Kensington Road NW, Calgary

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The quickest way to get to the Similkameen Valley in Canada’s western province of British Columbia is to fly to Penticton then rent a car and drive 30 minutes southwest to Keremeos. But those in the know relish the four-hour, 350km drive up from Vancouver via the scenic Crowsnest Highway. It’s one of the world’s great road trips.

Heading inland from the Pacific coast, Crowsnest Highway (BC Hwy 3) winds up into the Cascade Mountains and through spectacular Manning Provincial Park, then chicanes back down again into the semi-arid southern BC interior. Through the mountains, the highway parallels a fast-flowing stream that eventually broadens out into the majestic Similkameen River, which then tracks the snaking road until reaching the farming town of Keremeos and nearby hamlet of Cawston.

You’ve arrived in the Similkameen Valley, one of Canada’s most exciting wine regions hidden in plain sight. This emerging appellation lies, figuratively and literally, in the shadow of the much larger and more visited Okanagan Valley. Compared to the Okanagan, the Similkameen is blessedly empty of people. It is also stunningly beautiful, with soaring mountains framing the valley floor and vineyards interspersed among the older fruit orchards.

Undiscovered and unspoiled

The valley is arid and sunny, with less precipitation and more sunshine hours than almost any other BC wine region. That, plus the persistent winds that blow down from the surrounding mountains, helps keep the vineyards dry, clean and disease-free. No wonder Cawston is the organic farming capital of Canada.

Another key factor contributing to the exceptional fruit quality is the high diurnal range. While summer daytime temperatures on the valley floor can reach 40ºC, the nights are much cooler, resulting in a longer growing season and higher natural acidity in the grapes.

The region doesn’t yet have a distinctive wine identity, but there are some indicators of terroir affinity emerging. Riesling has planted a serious stake in these stony soils, as has Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon.

From just a couple of wineries a decade ago, there are now 12 cellar doors open to the public (from April to October), stretching 26km from Keremeos almost down to the US border. Most are small-scale and family-owned. For more information, visit Similkameen Independent Winegrowers.

The Similkameen Valley is a work in progress, but it retains a strong collective pioneering spirit among its farmers and winemakers – and the wine options are growing exponentially. There aren’t the hotels, restaurants and bars visitors might have experienced in other wine regions, but that is all part of the Similkameen’s charm: a relatively undiscovered and unspoiled corner of Canada with a real sense of place and authenticity. Which makes a visit here especially rewarding.

Six Similkameen Valley wineries to visit

Crowsnest Vineyards

In 2018, siblings Anna and Sascha Heinecke took over the reins from their parents at Crowsnest Vineyards, a family-run winery, restaurant and guesthouse. Since then they have pursued a vision of estate-grown, terroir-driven winemaking. They are custodians of some of the oldest vines in the valley, with original blocks of Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot first planted in 1989. With the family’s German heritage, their Riesling is particularly adept, with crisp minerality, balanced acidity and citrus fruit. Open daily in season.

Seven Stones

After Seven Stones founder George Hanson died suddenly in 2021, seasoned winemaker Dwight Sick took charge at this charming winery in the southern Similkameen Valley. Sick believes strongly in sustainable agriculture and practises light-touch winemaking. Visit the underground barrel caves, unique in this region, and enjoy a tasting and picnic on the stunning terrace overlooking the Similkameen River below, while watching raptors hawking the valley. Open daily in season.

Orofino Vineyards

John and Virginia Weber founded Orofino Vineyards in 2001, after moving to the Similkameen Valley from Saskatchewan. Since then they have pioneered micro-terroir winemaking in the valley, creating a suite of ever more impressive wines each reflecting their unique sense of place. Most of their vineyards are on the Cawston Bench, but they’ve also acquired a high-altitude plot in the cooler Olalla Gap off Highway 3A north of Orofino and planted 1.2ha of Cabernet Franc there. While all Orofino’s wines are delicious, don’t miss their single vineyard Rieslings, in particular the Home Vineyard Old Vines. Open daily in season except Tuesdays.

Clos du Soleil

Set against the mountains on the Upper Bench above Keremeos, Clos du Soleil is forging its own vinous path, focused on the classic Bordeaux grape varietals. It’s surprising how well Cabernet Sauvignon does here at 49º North, contributing a distinctive perfumed elegance to the estate’s flagship Signature red blend. Co-owner/winemaker Mike Clark’s Capella white blend (Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc) is no slouch either. Open daily in season, by appointment.

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Owned by the Baessler family, who originally hail from Switzerland, second-generation Charlie and Jesce Baessler’s estate sits next door to Clos du Soleil overlooking Keremeos, with similar microclimatic conditions. The vine rows are planted north-south, which Charlie explains helps with sunlight exposure on these south-facing slopes. From its 12ha of planted grapes, Corcelettes makes around 6,000 cases of wine a year. An outdoor tasting on the upper patio perched above the vineyard is not to be missed. Reservations advised. Open daily in season.

Vanessa Vineyard

Named for the numerous butterflies that owner Suki Sekhon discovered on his first visit to this site – Vanessa is a Greek word for butterfly – Vanessa is one of the newer wineries in Similkameen. The west- and south-facing hillside vineyards and extremely rocky soils make this an ideal site for growing black grapes. The rocks absorb daytime heat, reflecting warmth back during the cool nights, which helps produce complex, intense flavours with notable minerality. Winemaker Howard Soon is a veteran in the BC wine world, and his estate-grown red wines are among the best in the valley. Open Thursday to Monday mid-April to end May, then daily in summer.

My perfect day in the Similkameen Valley

Morning

Start your day with a visit to Klippers Marketplace and Café, where a delicious breakfast of home-baked pastries, granola or fruit smoothies, accompanied by great espresso coffee, awaits. You can also stock up here on fresh organic produce, preserves and juices from the Klippers farm. After breakfast, head down Highway 3 to the southern end of the valley, home to several wineries – including Seven Stones. Or drive over the picturesque Chopaka Bridge to explore the more rural right (west) bank of the river. Just remember that most of this land is the traditional territory of the Lower Similkameen Indian Band, and respect their culture and customs when traversing it.

Lunch and afternoon

Heading back up Highway 3, veer right onto Barcello Road, which hugs the base of the mountains to the east. After 6km, turn off onto Lowe Drive and head to Crowsnest Vineyards for a wine tasting and lunch at the Heinecke’s idyllic restaurant. Choose from house-made charcuterie platters with artisan sourdough breads, fresh salads and vegetables, and seasonal fruits – all grown by local farmers surrounding Crowsnest. After lunch, further winery visits await nearby in Cawston or on the benchlands above Keremeos. Riesling fans should make a beeline for Orofino, while lovers of both red and white Bordeaux blends will already have an appointment booked at Clos du Soleil.

Evening

The standout restaurant for dinner in the Similkameen is Row Fourteen. Yes, it’s located in the 14th row of the Klippensteins’ apple orchard! You can choose either the Herbivore or Locavore Harvest Menus, or order à la carte. Using all locally grown or farmed food, meals don’t get any fresher than this.

Your Similkameen Valley address book

Self-catering accommodation

Orofino Vineyards Suites

Two modern, elegantly appointed suites overlook the vineyards of this winery in Cawston. Located above the winery barrel room, the open-plan living/dining/kitchen areas are bright, spacious and lead onto large furnished decks. Kitchens are fully equipped to make great meals.

Similkameen Wild Resort Hotel

The closest thing to a resort hotel in the Similkameen. It’s located in the far south end of the valley so is quite isolated, but has a beautiful wilderness setting near the river and an outdoor swimming pool – a rarity in these parts. Accommodation ranges from mountain view suites with private balconies to a unique glamping option in two authentic indigenous tepees, one of which has a soaker tub. A continental breakfast is included.

Klippers Guest Suites

Surrounded by an apple orchard, this two-storey building has two ground-level and two upper-level suites, all with three bedrooms. All suites have well-equipped modern kitchens and dining/living areas, and outdoor decks or patios with barbeques. A short walk to Row Fourteen restaurant (see below).

Restaurants

Row Fourteen

The region’s top-rated restaurant leads the way with brilliant fresh food in an elegant, airy space and large outdoor patio. The restaurant celebrates the region, from farm to vineyard to forest. Great selection of Similkameen Valley wines. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday-Tuesday. Reservations required for dinner.

The Farm Store

More café than restaurant, you can nevertheless have a delicious breakfast here, and they also serve light lunches in summer. Open in season, check hours online.

Crowsnest Vineyards

A charming, casual restaurant attached to the winery of the same name. If weather permits, eat outdoors on the patio beside the vines. Think charcuterie and cheese platters, home-baked sourdough bread, and wine flights. Open for lunch and dinner. Enquire about their outdoor wood-fired pizza nights.

Shopping

Stop off at one or more of the many fruit and vegetable stalls that line the Crowsnest Highway just before Keremeos (the fruit stand capital of Canada) and in Cawston (Canada’s organic farming capital). Load up on delicious seasonal fruits and veggies such as peaches, apples, apricots, garlic, heirloom tomatoes, corn and much more.

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A couple of decades ago, tourists came to Prince Edward County for the thrill of the great outdoors. Golden beaches. Glassy lakes. Rolling fields studded with photogenic dilapidated barns and mom-and-pop farm shops. Those things are still here, and people still come for them, but they’re no longer the main draw. Most weekenders who make the drive about 2.5 hours east from buzzy Toronto in summertime are keen to experience just one thing: Ontario’s most exciting new wine scene.

Practically an island, Prince Edward dangles by a thin strip of land from southern Ontario – it’s almost entirely surrounded by the gently lapping surf of Lake Ontario and dotted with other bodies of water. Because of its unusual climate, it has long produced excellent orchard fruit – and, as local winemakers have established in recent years, it is also capable of producing quality grapes.

But viticulture here is not simple. The icy, snowy winters can easily kill vines, so the plants must be protected so they can survive. In autumn, the vines are either ‘hilled up’ with earth or covered with a layer of protective fabric. In spring, when the thaw comes, they must be carefully uncovered again, as can be seen in Traynor Vineyards’ blog ‘A year in the vineyard’. Costs are high and yields are low.

But the effort is worth it: Prince Edward County’s wine scene is immensely exciting. While there is slowly a regional style being established – lean Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are particularly promising – there aren’t yet any fixed rules among the region’s three dozen or so producers. You’ll find some winemakers working with niche hybrid varieties such as Marechal Foch and Baco Noir. Redtail Vineyards produces pét-nats, carbonic maceration field blends and low-intervention Rieslings, and has even joined forces with local breweries. In comparison to the glossy, more conventional wineries in the long-established Niagara Peninsula region to the south of Toronto or the Okanagan Valley in Canada’s western province of British Columbia, Prince Edward County still feels edgy and pleasingly unpolished.

A tasting tour

Most of the wineries of note are clustered in the County’s west, hugged by Consecon Lake to the north and beachy Sandbanks Provincial Park to the south. Public transport is almost non-existent, so you’ll need a car to explore, but the drives are never far: usually five to ten minutes between cellar doors.

Start at Closson Chase, in Hillier, one of the County’s benchmark estates – it’s impossible to miss with its giant purple barn and picturesque church featuring a Beaune-style patterned roof. Inside at the tasting bar the elegant, precise Chardonnays should be the first thing you tackle. The Grande Cuvée comes with toasty, nutty notes and a fresh lick of acidity.

Just down the road heading west, innovative sparkling wine specialist Hinterland is an entirely different proposition. Ancestral-method rosé and Charmat-method Riesling-Vidal blends join a fortified, aperitif-style ratafia Chardonnay. The L’Imparfait range, meanwhile, is pushing the boundaries of County winemaking – made in conjunction with one of Canada’s top chefs, David McMillan, it includes a spontaneous-ferment Savagnin and a co-fermented Blaufränkisch and Gewurztraminer blend.

Somewhere between the two producers stylistically – and just a few minutes’ drive back east – you’ll find The Old Third Vineyard. Here owners Bruno François and Jens Korberg stick predominantly to leading County varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay), but all the wines are unfined and unfiltered. The tasting room, set in a vast old barn, is particularly atmospheric. Its pasta bar serves up fresh handmade pasta during peak summer season, too. If you’d like to keep tasting, you’ll find plenty more wines worth sipping. Further east, in Bloomfield, Huff Estates has an enticing, easy-drinking sparkling rosé Cuvée Janine, made with equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Keint-he in Wellington has earthy, cherried single-vineyard Pinot Noirs; nearby Grange makes Rieslings, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.

In most cases you won’t need appointments, although it’s always best to check, and you can book if you need to. Tasting fees (typically $7-$15 for a flight) are waived if you buy a bottle or two. It would be remiss not to mention the Norman Hardie Winery (see below), in Wellington. Although his name is under a cloud, there is no doubt that Black River Cheese Hardie is responsible for much of Prince Edward County’s success. The winery continues to make great wines, though there are many people who still boycott it on principle of the allegations that emerged in 2018.

Rural pleasures

Drinks enthusiasts don’t just come out to the County for the wines, though. The region is also gaining attention for its beers and ciders (remember that orchard fruit fact: this was once apple country). Gillingham Brewing Company makes tropical IPAs, a Belgian-style tripel and an oatmeal stout, served up on sun-warmed picnic benches. Crimson Cider Company produces an off-dry hopped cider, and The County Cider Company makes a Somerset-style bottling blended using bittersweet and bittersharp varieties and the estate’s Golden Russets.

Good drink and good food often go hand in hand – and they certainly do in Prince Edward County. As chefs and artisan makers have relocated from the likes of Toronto and Montreal, they’ve brought a new standard of dining to the area’s quaint main towns, Wellington, Bloomfield and Picton. Now you can feast on Mexican or Japanese fare as good as you’ll find in any major city, find a perfect frothy flat white made with locally roasted coffee beans or buy artisan goodies from a range of chic delis. But despite the trendy shift, the overall feel is authentic rather than overly fussy – you’ll still find homemade lemonade, traditional diners and dusty antique shops in the jumble.

And when you’re indulged to the brim? Prince Edward County has more to make you want to linger. Here’s where the region’s classic outdoor delights come in. You can spend an afternoon sunning yourself on powdery dunes at Sandbanks Provincial Park (see ‘My perfect weekend’, below), lapped by cool Lake Ontario waters. You can hire a kayak or canoe and paddle past forested shores, keeping eyes peeled for deer or coyotes. You can spend a Saturday night nibbling popcorn at a retro drive-in movie (see ‘Saturday’, below).

And when you’ve tired yourself out with all that exploring, there’s no need to hit the highway straight back to Toronto. In the last few years the County has seen an explosion in superb places to stay, which can easily transform your day trip into a brilliant gourmet long weekend. Whether you prefer a funky renovated motel such as The June, a Victorian-era stay like Merrill House or designer inn Mirazule (see below), you’ll find it all – and more – here.

My perfect weekend in Prince Edward County

Friday

Most must-visit wineries are in the County’s west, the side closest to Toronto, so dive into tastings as soon as you arrive, hitting the spots listed in this article. In between, line your stomach with a doorstop-sized sandwich at Flossie’s Sandwiches, a food kiosk in Hillier outside a cute garden shop, or vegan wraps and locally roasted coffee at Good Place in Wellington. But save room for dinner later at Flame & Smith in Bloomfield, where a Japanese-influenced menu includes hot-smoked hamachi. Finally, drop your bags at glossy design-forward pad Mirazule, 20 minutes southeast, where hosts Ian and Miguel await with a warm welcome and bottomless glasses of local Casa-Dea fizz.

Saturday

Wake up to sweeping views of Lake Ontario (and Miguel’s home-baked banana loaf), then ready yourself for a day of old-school County charm. Start with nearby Vicki’s Veggies, an honesty shop heaving with sauces and preserves, then stock up on dairy-based delights at Black River Cheese, open since 1901. Further east, the scenic County Road 8 hugging the water carries you to cideries, more wineries and roadside shack Waupoos Tarts (2596 County Road) for gooey, sugary butter tarts – a classic Ontario treat. In the afternoon, explore Picton’s cute boutiques before dinner at downtown’s The Royal Hotel. Visiting in summer? Catch a post-sunset film at The Mustang Drive-In, a slice of retro rural Canadiana 10 minutes away.

Sunday

Start your last day with a morning stroll along the powdery tree-lined dunes at Sandbanks Provincial Park by West Lake (check ontarioparks.com to book a permit in advance). You’ve probably picked up enough snacks for a picnic by now but, if not, grab a tasting platter of Canadian oysters at relaxed Sand & Pearl nearby. Follow with an ice cream at Slickers and homewares shopping in pretty Bloomfield, eight minutes away back along route 12, then work your way through the cideries and breweries just outside town. Stop off at nearby Oeno Gallery at Huff Estates for contemporary Canadian art, then as you meander back west towards Toronto, tick off any wineries you missed on Friday

Your Prince Edward County address book

Accommodation

Drake Devonshire, Wellington

This outpost of Toronto’s funky Drake Hotel in Wellington was the first hotel to draw cool city folk to the County. Rooms are plastered in colourful art and loud prints, and the restaurant serves up a first-rate maple syrup-infused Old Fashioned.

Mirazule, Milford

The intimacy of a B&B, with style straight out of Wallpaper* magazine. Anglo-Canadian couple Ian and Miguel built their dream contemporary home on a prime stretch of Lake Ontario waterfront, and offer a one-of-a-kind hotel experience. PEC stays don’t get more exclusive.

Wander the Resort, nr Wellington

Inspired by Canadian cottage culture, this sleek new lakefront resort has standalone designer cabins with open-plan kitchens, fire pits for toasting marshmallows and enough space to sleep four. The central clubhouse sells locally made goodies, including pottery from Picton’s Ye11ow Studio.

Restaurants & cafés

La Condesa, Wellington

Great Mexican food isn’t what you’d expect to find in rural Canada, but with a chef from Cancún and fabulous homemade tortillas, La Condesa is sublime. The tuna tostadas and cochinita tacos are unforgettable. Be aware, though, it’s no reservations, and very popular.

Norman Hardie, Wellington

Pizza and Pinot Noir – can you think of a better combo? The sunny terrace at one of the County’s most established wine producers really draws the crowds on warm summer days.

The Dining Room at The Royal, Picton

Chef Albert Ponzo has opened the County’s most exciting new restaurant in the heart of the newly refurbished Royal Hotel. Expect Fogo Island cod with béarnaise sauce or brown butter cappelletti with squash. Much of the produce comes from the hotel’s own farm.

The Marans, Picton

Eclectic, homely fare in downtown Picton. Also check out their casual café, Bantam, recently relocated to Closson Chase winery (see above).

Shopping

Fifth Town, nr Waupoos East

This artisan cheese producer makes its goat cheddars and truffle-infused semi-softs in a certified eco-dairy in the County’s eastern reaches.

Kinsip, Bloomfield

The main draw at this boutique spirits producer is supposed to be the small-batch rye whisky. But in-the-know shoppers don’t leave without a bottle of Kinsip’s whisky barrel-aged maple syrup in hand, too.

Slake Brewing, Picton

Maker of some of PEC’s most interesting beers – it even offers, when in stock, a grape ale infused with Gewurztraminer from Redtail Vineyards. The tasting room perched in the hills comes with great views, too.

How to get there

The nearest international airport to Prince Edward County is Toronto Pearson. UK travellers can fly from London Gatwick (7.5hrs) or Heathrow (8hrs). From Toronto head east on highway 407, then continue on the 401 – it’s a 2.5hr (210km) drive to Prince Edward County. Car hire options at Toronto Pearson include Avis, Hertz and National/Alamo.

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The first time I met Thomas and Mary Delany Bachelder was in 2018 at a tasting of Canadian wines at the Trafalgar Square embassy in London. In front of them on the table was a map of Ontario’s Niagara wine region with names and arrows handwritten all over it, pointing to single vineyards. ‘Discovering and channelling terroir is our raison d’être,’ they said.

Historically, terroir has not been the focus of Canadian wineries, but the Bachelders are one of a handful of producers that are attempting to do just that: unearthing and interpreting the region’s vineyards. My curiosity piqued, I decided to revisit Niagara, and the Bachelders, to find out more.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 12 Bachelder wines

How did it all begin?

Thomas Bachelder embarked on his wine journey as many of us have: tasting wines with friends. He turned his passion into a career, becoming a wine journalist in his hometown of Montréal in Québec, but eventually winemaking school beckoned.

In the early 1990s going to a Canadian winemaking school wasn’t an option but he could speak French, so Thomas, along with his new bride Mary Delany, moved to Burgundy. Burgundy’s influence on Thomas was immediate: ‘They (Burgundians) never spoke about grapes, just places.’

Over the ensuing decade, he honed his winemaking skills at Domaine de la Créa (Beaune), Domaine Marius Delarche (Pernand-Vergelesses) and Château Génot-Boulanger (Meursault). Thomas’ lifelong passion for terroir was born.

Meeting fellow winemaking student Luisa Ponzi (Ponzi Vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley) led to a summer in the US state and introduced Thomas and Mary to an alternative interpretation of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. That experience led to a move to Oregon in 1999 when Thomas became winemaker at Lemelson Winery.

‘Burgundy discovered terroir hundreds of years ago and we (winemakers) attempt to interpret it. In Oregon, I learned that terroir was there just waiting to be discovered.’

Coming home

In 2003, Thomas’ Canadian passport and experience in interpreting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in both the New and Old Worlds made him an ideal choice for a new winemaking project in Ontario’s Niagara region: a joint venture between what was then Vincor Canada (now Arterra Wines) and the Boisset family of Burgundy.

The vision was terroir driven, modelled after Burgundy: only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay would be produced, with three levels of quality. Vines were planted in 2000 and Le Clos Jordanne was born. The first wines, from the 2005 vintage, were released to wide acclaim and announced to the wine world that Thomas Bachelder, winemaker, had come home.

Thomas eventually parted ways with Le Clos Jordanne in 2010. The company eventually had its doors shut in 2016 by then owners Constellation but was revived in 2019 by new owners Arterra Wines, who immediately hired Thomas back as chief winemaker.

In 2009, Thomas and Mary started Three Terroirs, devoted to making Chardonnay (and eventually Pinot Noir) in the three places they knew best: Oregon, Burgundy and Niagara. Operating as a micro-négociant in each country allowed them the flexibility to source grapes from different plots and interpret the terroirs in all three locations.

Within a few years, they discovered that people were most interested in the wines from Niagara so, in 2015, Bachelder Niagara became their sole focus.

Destination Niagara

The modern history of the wine industry in Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula only dates to the mid-1970s. The region has spent much of the ensuing 40 years trying to convince the world that it could grow grapes and make quality wine, beyond just icewine.

Its success is evident. Today, the Niagara wine route has boutique wineries, tasting rooms and top restaurants. Niagara is now a wine destination.

Niagara possesses both continental and maritime climates, resulting in material differences in growing conditions depending on where the vineyards are located (continental for vineyards located in the slopes of Niagara escarpment – commonly called benches – and maritime for those vineyards closer to Lake Ontario

In addition, the region has multiple soils – limestone, clay, silt, gravel, sand/sandstone and often a combination. Altitudes range from 95m to 170m and the distance from Lake Ontario ranges between 3.2km to 13km. It is this interplay between grape, proximity to the lake, altitude and soils that Bachelder seeks to express.

Bachelder Niagara: the facts

Founded 2009

Owner Thomas Bachelder and Mary Delany Bachelder

Annual Production 5,000 cases

Key vineyards Niagara-on-the-Lake: Bator, Willms, Bai-Xu, Lowrey

Niagara Escarpment: Wismer Foxcroft, Wismer-Park, Wismer-Wingfield, Cuesta, Saunders, Hanck

Wines between 25 and 28. Key bottlings are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay from the Niagara-on-the-Lake VQAs of Four Mile Creek and St David’s Bench and the Niagara Escarpment VQAs of Twenty Mile Bench, Beamsville Bench and Lincoln Lakeshore

Associated wineries Les Clos Jordanne

Grapes and winemaking style

Initially Thomas and Mary focused on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two grapes they knew well via their ‘spiritual home’ of Burgundy. The winemaking style is the same for each wine. Thomas is focused on transparency: letting the vineyards ‘sing lightly and clearly’ to promote their sense of place.

Low intervention winemaking is his philosophy, which includes a light touch when it comes to use of barrels. Wines are aged for two years in a combination of barrel and bottle prior to release. ‘I just try to get out of the way,’ he says.

Bachelder makes seven single-vineyard wines for each grape: two from vineyards located near the historic lakeside area of Niagara, which has a maritime climate, and five from vineyards located in the bench area that is more elevated and continental. They also make a village-level blend from across the region.

Their newest project is all about Gamay, which is turning out to be one of Niagara’s shining stars. Thomas and Mary have been long-time admirers of Cru Beaujolais, so adding Gamay to their line-up was a natural progression.

Unlike the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, winemaking is different for Gamay. There are two expressions of Gamay for each vineyard, with the difference being the percentage of whole bunches used in the winemaking. Currently eight wines are produced from four single vineyards, as well as a village-level and more unusually, a blend between Pinot Noir and Gamay.

Visiting the vineyards

Thomas felt it was important that I explored the vineyards before I tasted the wines, so we visited eight distinct locations, providing the opportunity to appreciate the uniqueness of each. We then headed to what is affectionately known as the ‘Bat Cave’ (ageing cellar) to meet up with Mary and taste through the range.

With the same regional map from our first encounter years before visible in the background, we sat down and sampled the most recent releases: 2020 Gamays, 2019 Chardonnays and 2019 Pinot Noirs. As the wines were from the same vintage and grape, and had the same winemaking, differences had to be attributed primarily to terroir.

And there were differences. One Pinot Noir was lean and tart while another – sourced from a vineyard just 10 metres away – was rich and fruity. Some differences were more subtle, such as fruit profile and alcohol, but the thread that tied them all together was fruit purity and freshness.

This is a credit to the vineyards and the region but the overall elegance of the wines was a reflection of Thomas’s winemaking.

I asked him what was next – perhaps Cabernet Franc or Riesling, two of Niagara’s other premier grapes. He replied: ‘No we will stick with these grapes as we’ve only just begun. There is still so much to do and discover.’

Modest visionaries

Towards the conclusion of the tasting, Thomas looked at me and said: ‘Do you know what you haven’t heard today? You haven’t heard me say Bachelder.

‘This is not about me, it’s about the vineyards and their founders – the Lowrey and Wismer families among others. As well as pioneers like Karl Kaiser who, 40 years ago, asked these vineyard owners to take a risk and plant these grapes.’

As I left, my lasting impression was that this modest couple, together with a few other unheralded Niagara winemakers, are doing what was done in Burgundy hundreds of years ago: methodically and successfully mapping Niagara Peninsula terroirs ‘one vineyard at a time’.

Bachelder: tasting notes and scores for 12 wines

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Canada’s western province of British Columbia (BC), has approved six new sub-appellations for its most famous wine-growing region of Okanagan Valley.

The Okanagan Valley is BC’s largest appellation – called Geographical Indications (GIs) in Canada. And from a standing start in 2015, it now has 11 sub-GIs following the recent ratification.

The six new sub-GIs are: Summerland Valleys, Summerland Lakefront, Summerland Bench, East Kelowna Slopes, South Kelowna Slopes and Lake Country. They are now legally protected terms defining geographical areas of origin for BC wine.

They join five previously designated sub-GIs: Golden Mile Bench, Golden Mile Slopes, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, and Skaha Bench.

Pride and progress

The first wines with new sub-GI labels are now on shelves, including wines from O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars in Lake Country.

‘O’Rourke Family Estate and Peak Cellars wineries are proud to state Lake Country on 100% of our labels, recognising that our vineyards are within a very special area in the north Okanagan Valley,’ said winemaker Stephanie Stanley.

O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars spearheaded Lake Country’s sub-GI application with support from all the wineries in this northern area, including Gray Monk, Intrigue, Ex-Nihilo and Arrowleaf.

Several wineries led the application for South Kelowna Slopes and East Kelowna Slopes, including Cedar Creek, Summerhill and Tantalus Vineyards.

‘This is a key first step, but it’s not an overnight process,’ said David Paterson, winemaker/general manager at Tantalus. ‘Over the next decade, the most important thing will be for us to define what are the best wines coming out of our specific region and then make that mean something to consumers.’

The three Summerland applications were led by the Bottleneck Drive Association, which represents all 11 wineries in this region on the west side of Okanagan Lake. Rick Thrussell, owner of Sage Hills Winery, was a key driver.

Specific landforms define each sub-GI: soils, aspect, elevation, topography and landscapes that affect growing conditions. As the Okanagan Valley is glaciated terrain, formed in the last ice age, its soils are highly varied.

The Okanagan Valley is BC’s dominant winegrowing region, stretching 175km north-south in a narrow, lake-filled gorge. It accounts for 86% of the province’s total vineyard area and boasts a diverse range of grape varieties and wine styles.

At a glance: the six new Okanagan Valley sub-GIs

Lake Country 100ha of vines and 6 wineries

South Kelowna Slopes 131ha and 3 wineries

East Kelowna Slopes 82ha and 9 wineries

Summerland Bench 60ha and 10 wineries

Summerland Lakefront 65ha and 4 wineries

Summerland Valleys 34ha and 6 wineries

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British Columbia Syrah: Canada’s rising star

Canadian Riesling: British Columbia’s best buys

Okanagan Valley: Canada’s global wine region

Once a rural pocket of fruit farmers, hobby fishermen and cottage-goers, Ontario’s Prince Edward County has undergone a radical reinvention over the past decade. The vast crumbling barns and sleepy towns – perched enticingly by beach-fronted lakes or rolling fields – have been spruced up and hipster-ified. Weekending couples from Toronto, two hours west, come to raid its cute antique shops, sip sours at its breweries and feast on wood-fired pizzas in its glut of cool restaurants.

They also come to drink wine. Elegant, Burgundian-inspired Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Quirkier Baco Noir and Marechal Foch. Trendy pét-nat, piquette and orange bottles. All these, and more, are now produced by roughly 40 small scale Prince Edward County wineries. Some are only a few years old and most have an experimental mindset.

After all, a pioneering spirit is what’s needed when you’re growing at the cusp of the viticultural world. In the County winters are so cold that vines must be buried below earth each autumn, just to survive.

A place to stay

It was only a matter of time until the region’s accommodation scene caught up with the winemaking. The opening of Wander the Resort in 2020 on the banks of scenic West Lake signalled new levels of sophistication. A step above the surrounding friendly mom-and-pop B&Bs and the funky renovated motels, this stay does glam to a global standard.

That’s not to say that Wander the Resort doesn’t feel local. In many ways, it’s as Canadian as resorts come. The 10 stand-alone cabins, each sleeping up to five, come with cosy wood burners and kitchens so you can self-cater.

In summer, there are marshmallow bonfires, canoe rides on the lake and family barbecues in view of a communal pool. In winter, under a blanket of snow, there are steams in barrel saunas and poaches in a hot tub.

What’s different about Wander, however, is that the typical Canadiana kitsch has been ditched. So there are no red plaid sofas, dull brown woods or stuffed deer heads here. Instead, expect Nordic-style sleek interiors, earthy handmade pottery from nearby Ye11ow Studio, rattan pendant lights and premium soy candles from County Candle Co.

The attention to detail doesn’t stop there. Your cabin’s deck has a personal bonfire, lit automatically each morning for you to enjoy alongside breakfast. Rooms come stocked with Polaroid cameras and film so you can capture your memories romantically, in analogue.

Service is personalised and discreet, with most communications carried out by text. Even check-in takes place in the comfort of your cabin via a few taps of your phone. The first (and, should you wish, only) interaction with a staff member will be when they turn up at your floor-to-ceiling glass door with a welcome glass of local fizz or beer.

Eat and drink local

Speaking of food and drink: Prince Edward County fare is, of course, championed. Staff can help stock cabins to bursting with wine from Closson Chase, locally sourced charcuterie boards and Cherry Bomb coffee, which is roasted down the road.

A new series of vinous dinners will bring the best of the region’s winemakers to the hotel for guided tastings. Most are located just a short drive away, if you want to visit.

There is much else in the pipeline. A new communal clubhouse area, opening this year, will host a bar, spa treatment rooms, film screenings, live music and cookery classes. Meditation, self-massage and yoga classes will form the basis of a complimentary wellness programme.

Finally a gift store lets you ‘shop your cabin’, so you can take home the fabulous own-brand smellies and other County goodies.

With so much to look forward to, the future of Wander the Resort is certainly looking bright. Much like that of Prince Edward County itself.

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‘Why don’t you grow coconuts?’ This was the taunt Alex Nichol received when he planted Syrah on the Okanagan’s Naramata Bench. They were the first Syrah vines in Canada. It was 1991 and at the time British Columbia counted only 20 wineries, compared to almost 300 today.

For years, Nichol Vineyard remained an anomaly until viticulturist Richard Cleave laid the groundwork for expansion. Cleave, who started working in the Okanagan Valley in the 1970s, was instrumental in transitioning the industry from hybrid grapes to vinifera.

In 1996, when planting his own vineyard, Phantom Creek, Cleave was warned against Syrah. He swiftly accepted the challenge. The vineyard became a source for Sandhill Winery’s Small Lots program and gained renown through bottlings from winemaker Howard Soon. Cleave went on to establish Syrah vineyards for notable producers like Burrowing Owl, Mission Hill and Jackson-Triggs.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 15 top British Columbia Syrah wines

Today, Syrah deserves its reputation as one of British Columbia’s most exciting varieties. However, it represents only 9% of planted red grapes – behind Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

With just 223ha of BC’s 4,486ha, Syrah plantings in the province are almost double that of Hermitage in the Rhône, but significantly less than Côte-Rôtie. Most are scattered throughout the southern Okanagan, the province’s main wine zone.

Protected from wet weather by the Coastal Mountain Range, the Okanagan Valley has continental, desert-like conditions. As it sits north of the 49th parallel, the region sees long days in the height of summer. Diurnal swings are dramatic, with temperatures sometimes soaring to more than 40°C in the day and dropping by as much as 30°C at night.

But the growing season is short. ‘We have a month and a half less than the Languedoc, but we are still able to ripen Syrah,’ says Severine Pinte, winemaker at Le Vieux Pin. She cites the sufficient heat, the intense light and the cool nights which preserve natural acidity as the keys to Syrah’s success here.

As the Okanagan stretches north, it becomes progressively cooler. Vineyards flank both sides of the lakes and rivers that string their way up the valley. As Syrah needs heat, it is restricted to the southern reaches, predominantly on east benches and warmer pockets of the western side.

‘The terroir is very important,’ says Cleave. ‘You need everything in your favour.’ Besides a hot, predominantly south- or west-facing site, he looks for dense, coarse, rocky soils and light, quick-draining sand. ‘You can’t have too much clay because you have to control Syrah’s natural vigour.’

Osoyoos and the Okanagan benches

Boasting the Okanagan’s greatest number of growing degree-days, the area of Osoyoos is the epicentre for late-ripening reds. Nestled just above the US border, it is the northern tip of the Sonoran Desert featuring desert brush, rattlesnakes and deep sandy soil.

According to Cleave, the sweet spot is the Black Sage Bench which extends along the eastern bank of the Okanagan River towards the town of Oliver. ‘That is where all of the best Syrahs come from,’ he claims. Renowned wineries such as Black Hills, Burrowing Owl and Phantom Creek are located here.

Across from Black Sage Bench, the Golden Mile Bench is on the west side of the valley. The vineyards enjoy both gentle morning sun and late afternoon shade, making for an overall cooler microclimate. Nevertheless, sites on warm soils of coarse sand and gravel do well with Syrah.

Continuing north, the Skaha Bench and Naramata Bench are on the eastern side of the valley. The vineyards here see an extra two hours of sun compared to vineyards on the west.

Even so, ‘Naramata is the northern limit of where you can ripen Syrah well,’ asserts Lyndsay O’Rourke, owner and winemaker at Tightrope. Achieving desired ripeness can be a struggle in cool years. Appropriate sites are limited to south- and west-facing slopes at higher elevations, where the soil is volcanic granite rather than silty clay.

South into Similkameen

Adjacent to the southern Okanagan Valley, the Similkameen Valley is a separate region of BC. Conditions are similarly arid and hot during the summer, however, as there are no lakes to moderate, the climate is more extreme. Looming mountains throw shade and a fierce wind that picks up in the late afternoon which locals compare to France’s Mistral.

‘Syrah is a star here,’ says John Weber at Orofino. He points specifically to the south- to west-facing upper benches on stony alluvial soil where Syrah can reach a high degree of ripeness. ‘The hallmark of our Syrah is these nice, long, supple tannins.’

Even in the most favourable spots, Syrah is not without challenges. Sensitivity to winter freeze was initially a concern. However Ross Hackworth, who purchased Nichol Vineyard in 2004, doesn’t see this as a Syrah-specific issue. ‘If it is -21°C for a few consecutive days, everything is going to pack it in,’ he declares.

Nevertheless, Syrah plants are dying prematurely. Scientists have identified the problem as Syrah Decline, a condition in which sap flow is disrupted, weakening the vine. ‘We see it in 17- to 18-year-old plants but what dies off is sporadic,’ says Hackworth. He estimates a cumulative loss of 20% to 25% of Nichol’s original 1991 vines.

The illness is linked to clones – and the original two that were available in BC are predisposed. Since then more clones have been approved, though access to quality grapevine material continues to be an issue.

British Columbia Syrah styles

Making Syrah in British Columbia is an expensive proposition. It is BC’s costliest variety, averaging CAD$3,555 per tonne in 2019 ($2,785/€2,460/£2,065). Furthermore, for the grapes to reach full ripeness before temperatures drop, yields must be kept low.

‘Our yields are close to what they would get in Gigondas – about 35hl/ha to 40hl/ha,’ reveals Pinte. ‘Once you reach 60hl/ha, you lack the time to get the grapes to ripen.’

Challenges and prices aside, BC Syrah is gaining traction. The wines harness the intensity of the region with exuberantly pure aromas, lush fruit and bright acidity. In general, they are more enthusiastically fruity and punchier than their French counterparts while less ripe and rich than classic warm-climate Shiraz from, for example, South Africa or Australia’s Barossa Valley.

That said, styles vary due to diverse winemaking approaches. Co-fermentation with Viognier and whole-bunch ferments are popular, and experimentation with amphorae is on the rise. Most age in barrel, ranging from neutral vessels to varying degrees of new wood, while several see a combination of French and American oak.

Vintage variation is equally significant. I recently tried 50 wines mostly from the 2018 and 2019 vintages. Both were challenging years but very different and I’ve selected my top 15 below.

Vintage comparison: 2018 and 2019

Significant forest fires hampered the 2018 growing season – an escalating problem in BC. Where they break out and when during the growing season determine which wines might be affected. Certainly some of the 2018s were suggestive of smoke taint, though Syrah seems to be fairly forgiving and there are plenty of intriguing examples.

Fortunately forest fires did not break out in 2019. Conversely, it was a cool year and unusually wet through September. Nonetheless, warmer sites were not lacking in sugar ripeness. Overall, the wines are quite lean, racy and elegant – some even Northern Rhône-like. Less successful wines imposed too much oak, detracting from the perfume and fruit. The same is true of the 2018s.

All told, I remain convinced of British Columbia’s potential for unique, characterful Syrah that speaks of a specific place. Those brave early adopters have been completely vindicated.

British Columbia Syrah: 15 top wines from Okanagan and Similkameen

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Okanagan: Canada’s global wine region

Bruce Nicholson has spent over 34 years crafting wine in Canada’s British Columbia and Niagara regions at both Jackson Triggs British Columbia and Inniskillin Niagara wineries. As head winemaker of two of the country’s leading icewine producers, he has a lot to say about Canada’s most revered wine export, however his early inspiration was anything but icewine…

‘I was at a wine festival out west 35 years ago and I tried a Chardonnay from the Okanagan that was the real deal. It really inspired me and is certainly one of my favourite varieties to work with to this day.’

‘I like to try different vintages of my own wine to see how they’re progressing and where they’re heading and, did I make some of the right decisions along the way?’ Apparently so because the 2019 vintage of Nicholson’s prized Inniskillin’s Montague Vineyard grown Chardonnay was recently awarded a gold medal at the National Wine Awards of Canada.

Nicholson has decided to retire this year. ‘One of the proudest moments of my career was winning the inaugural Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaking Award in 2018, in memoriam of somebody who I admired, and it was where I was able to finally thank my wife for all her patience and support over the years.’

Karl Kaiser’s influence on the burgeoning Canadian wine industry in the 1970s had a profound effect on Nicholson. ‘It’s people like Donald Ziraldo, Karl Kaiser and Allan Jackson, Don Triggs, these people are the reason we are here. This is why there is a Canadian wine industry. These were the pioneers. Many people today, yesterday and in the future can thank them for their vision.’

Nicholson is confident in his successor, Nick Gizuk. ‘Inniskillin has been very fortunate to have Nick. In all my years, it’s very rewarding and special to have someone who is as passionate and dedicated as he is. To be a winemaker, you have to be all in. You can’t be 85%, you have to be 100% in all aspects of the process, and he is like that.’

Making icewine

Having overseen over three decades of winemaking, Nicholson has not experienced a single year where the conditions for icewine production did not materialise. But he admits there are still some challenges. ‘In all the years that I’ve lived, growing was good. I mean, it’s going to get to -8°C, -10°C. There’s no doubt about it.’

‘Wherever you are in the world’s wine-producing regions, you have a pretty good idea of when you’re going to pick those grapes. It might be a week one way or the other. But with icewine, it can happen in parts of November, December, or in January and sometimes as late as February or even March. The later it becomes, the more nervous the winemaker and the grower become, because the elements can take a hold of the vineyard… Wildlife, birds, the dehydration process or the wind that will knock the grapes off the vine.’

The sweet spot for icewine is not a soaring high sugar levels, according to Nicholson. ‘When I started at Innniskillin, I thought higher Brix would make better icewine. While it’s legal to have grapes at a lower sugar level and at much higher sugar levels, I have a smaller window… It’s a challenge finding the night that’s going to stay cold enough to get the grapes into the winery and pressed at the levels you want. I don’t like to pick Vidal on a first pick, unlike the vinifera which I like to pick at the very first opportunity. First the Riesling and then the thicker-skinned Cabernet Franc. I like the freezing to be thawing a bit.’

Over the years, Nicholson has learned to manage the prevalence of volatile acidity in sweet wines and icewines. ‘If you get a high VA in a delicate Riesling, Pinot Grigio or even Chardonnay, it becomes obvious and a fault. But you can have amazingly high VA [in icewine] as a result of the osmotic pressure that the yeast is responding to from the high sugar. It has a tendency to go up fairly quickly and then it levels off. That’s part of the profile. If it’s your first time [making icewine] you may get awful nervous when the VA starts to rise. It’s a response to the high viscosity, high sugar. That’s one of the reasons I don’t like my Brix too high.’

Sparkling success

Sparkling icewine is a rarely exported Canadian delicacy that Nicholson continues to champion. ‘It’s a Charmat method, it’s got to be because once you’ve stopped a fermentation, it is impossible to get it to start again. If there was one wine that I had to take to the Queen of England or to a high dignitary in the world, I would take a sparkling icewine. At the London Wine Fair in 2007, people came from all over the world and said: “We have to try your sparkling icewine and I’ve been told we have to buy your sparkling wine.’”

Finding the right time to open a bottle of icewine may prove as agonising for consumers as the process of making icewine is for winemakers. So Nicholson has some words of advice: ‘The right occasion is any occasion. It’s a small bottle and it’s a high price, and rightfully so because I know the process of making it. But if you can get together, particularly nowadays when we haven’t been with family and friends – the whole world – for almost two years, then go down to your cellar and have that bottle of wine.’

‘Some of my earliest memories are spending time with friends and family. I missed spending Christmas Day with my family [last year]. I enjoy having my daughter and my son here, all together, and sharing good food and great wine with the people that mean the most to you. With my daughter getting married, I now have a son-in-law, which is just going to add to the memories and enjoyment of the holidays.’

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Another year of zoom tastings and sampling wines in isolation doesn’t sound very inspiring on paper. Nevertheless, the capacity for wine to exhilarate transcends even the most prosaic circumstances. And, in all truth, I eventually braved the nightmare of travelling so that I could return to Italy.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Michaela Morris’ top 10 fine wines of 2021

My top picks for 2021 include a trio of Nebbiolo from northwestern Italy’s outstanding 2016 vintage. The Barolo couplet is a tip of the hat to two of the region’s leading producers – GB Burlotto and Bartolo Mascarello. Both wines have ties to Cannubi, a legendary site that lived up to its historic reputation in 2016.

The third Nebbiolo hails from Valtellina in Lombardy, a region overshadowed by its more famous brethren in Piedmont. Following an extensive tasting, I am more convinced than ever that this ‘mountain’ expression is equally compelling. Sandro Fay’s Carterìa Valtellina Superiore Riserva Valgella is a case in point.

Alongside Nebbiolo, I immersed myself in Barbera, traditionally regarded as Piedmont’s workhorse grape. Olim Bauda’s 2016 Nizza Riserva soared well beyond this typecast. The wine demonstrated the dignity of Barbera without losing its immense drinkability and food-friendly character or falling into the trap of over-ambitious oak ageing.

Brunello

Filing my annual Tuscan report in spring was a massive undertaking. It involved coordinating a shipment of 300 wines to Vancouver, only possible thanks to the help of Canadian importers. The reward was tasting one stunning 2016 Brunello after another, followed by the affable 2015 Riservas.

My top-scoring wine was Fuligni’s 2016, which evoked the essence of Montalcino with seamless elegance and powerful depth.

A smaller sampling than usual of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was nonetheless particularly gratifying. At Tuscany’s anteprime tastings, this denomination has typically been hurriedly sandwiched between Chianti Classico and Brunello. I was pleased to be able to devote some time to this underrated DOCG. Boscarelli’s Costa Grande was a great success for the challenging 2017 vintage and a reminder that Vino Nobile merits attention.

Chianti

Finally, Chianti Classico’s new releases offered gems from all vintages and categories presented.

At the Gran Selezione level, Le Cinciole’s 2016 Aluigi was among the standouts. Previously labeled as a Riserva, this wine is emblematic of Gran Selezione’s new direction which sees greater focus on Sangiovese and will eventually allow labeling of Chianti Classico’s 11 UGA. I made a point of visiting Le Cinciole when I was able to travel to Chianti Classico later in the year and this wine was showing even better than when I first tried it.

While in the region, I enjoyed a bottle of Castell’in Villa’s 1982 Chianti Classico Riserva. Besides offering the perfect pairing for roasted pigeon, it was a tribute to the longevity of Chianti Classico and the tireless work of proprietress Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa.

France

Alain Graillot’s 2007 La Guiraude Crozes-Hermitage may seem like an interloper but thoroughly deserves a place on this list.

I found a lone bottle in my cellar and brought it to the first indoor dinner party in almost year. It showed brilliantly at this intimate meal with close friends who share my longstanding appreciation of Northern Rhône Syrah.

Canada & England

The long stretch in Canada finally afforded me the opportunity to judge our national wine awards competition with the team at Wine Align.

From across the country, the traditional-method sparkling wines shone, though the standout was from Ontario. It was my first time trying Queenston Mile’s wines and I was particularly taken by the richness, expression and raciness of their 2017 Brut Blanc De Noirs.

Apropos bubbles, I am celebrating the holidays with family in the UK. As I explore English sparkling wine, maybe I’ll find a contender for next year’s list.

Michaela’s top 10 fine wines of 2021:

See the highest-scoring Canadian Rieslings and the top Rieslings from British Columbia

Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula is Canada’s largest wine region. Lake Ontario and the Niagara Escarpment flank the peninsula, meaning constant airflow between the two regulates temperatures. The mild autumns encourage Riesling to ripen slowly.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ top Eastern Canada Rieslings

While there is range of styles, Ontario Riesling is overridingly Germanic, with varying levels of residual sugar and moderate alcohol. The wines’ arresting prettiness, underlying power and clever interplay between mineral nuances and orchard fruit impressed. I also found some of the best value for money here.

Jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, Nova Scotia is truly cold climate. The Bay of Fundy’s massive tides, which extend the growing season into November, strongly influence the province’s Annapolis Valley.

Still, hybrids dominate, and Riesling occupies a mere 3% of the area under vine. The wines are lean and bracing with a piercing purity. I’d happily have a glass of all five wines I tried – particularly those from Avondale Sky, Grand Pré and Benjamin Bridge.

With wickedly cold winters falling to -30°C, Québec is the most unlikely wine region, and protecting vineyards from damage requires heroic efforts. Of the province’s 800 hectares, Riesling counts just 8ha; 90% are hybrid grape varieties.

This was my first tasting of Québec Riesling and I was pleasantly surprised by wines from Vignobles Ste-Pétronille and La Cantina. Their wines were packed with flavour – just like the province’s scrumptious apples.

Eastern Canada Riesling: Michaela Morris’ top wines to buy

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COMING SOON: the top Rieslings from Eastern Canada

See all the highest-scoring Canadian Rieslings

Riesling is grown in all four key wine-producing provinces of Canada: from British Columbia in the west, to Ontario, Québec and Nova Scotia in the east.

Its winter-hearty properties and accomplishment in other cool regions made it a natural choice among intrepid souls who started experimenting with vinifera varieties in here in the 1970s.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ top British Columbia Rieslings

Stretching north from the US border to the 50th parallel, the Okanagan Valley is British Columbia’s principal growing region. While a string of lakes moderates the climate, the growing season is compressed and extreme. Arid, hot summers can reach a scorching 40°C in the day with nights cooling off considerably.

Penetratingly intense flavours – and acidity – defines British Columbia Riesling. Overall, the wines are drier than their Ontario counterparts and several top examples were exhilaratingly dry.

Regional and stylistic differences aside, I also noted that a number of my top picks – from both British Columbia and Eastern Canada – hailed from vines over 25 years of age. They stood out for their depth of flavour and breadth of nuances.

At Tantalus in Kelowna, at the top of the Okanagan Valley, winemaker David Paterson finds that older vines give more weight and dry extract than the younger ones, helping to craft wines with ‘true texture, balance and longevity’. As Canada’s vineyards continue to mature, this bodes well for its Rieslings.

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COMING SOON

See individual overviews and the top Rieslings from:

British Columbia and Eastern Canada

It’s impossible to hold up a single grape variety as Canada’s flagship. But if I were to choose one that echoes the natural beauty and intensity of this country’s awe-inspiring landscape, it would be Riesling.

Scroll down to see Michaela Morris’ 12 highest-scoring Canadian Rieslings

Before you make the inevitable leap to Icewine, let the record show that Canadian Riesling produces far more table wine. Icewine is a rare specialty – and consumed rarely.

For this tasting, I focused exclusively on table wines, which run the gamut from bone-dry to medium-sweet.

Of the 138 Canadian Riesling samples tasted, five each came from Nova Scotia and Québec while the rest were evenly split between British Columbia and Ontario.

I tasted them all blind by province, eager to pinpoint the personality of each.

Thankfully there were few relics of the past – dilute, sugary, acerbic swill. The lion’s share was well-made and highly drinkable, if straightforward.

Those that stood out spoke articulately of a unique climate and, in some cases, a very specific place. No single style triumphed, and most tasted drier than their residual sugar suggested. The best Canadian Riesling winemakers are virtuosos of a fine balancing act.

Canadian Riesling: Michaela Morris’ top 12 wines to buy

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Canadian wine is little-known. Even those wineries that enjoy national acclaim are rarely celebrated beyond the country’s borders.

Habitual ‘winery of the year’ within Canada, Tawse Winery finally managed to break onto the international scene when the estate’s 2011 Chardonnay made the cover of Decanter in 2015. It was named among the world’s best Chardonnay outside Burgundy.

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’s tasting notes and scores on the latest releases from Tawse Winery

This was a coup for financier Moray Tawse. When he founded the winery in 2000, there were fewer than 60 producers in Ontario (compared to almost 200 today) and the average price for local wine was about C$12 per bottle [the equivalent to about £5 in 2000].

‘My goal was to make the best wine in Ontario,’ he says. Tawse entered the market boldly with wines retailing for C$40-$50 [about £17-£21 in 2000] – despite warnings from skeptical colleagues that no one would pay such prices for Ontario wine.

He proved them wrong and Tawse Winery’s success has helped boost both the quality and reputation of the region.

How did Tawse Winery expand?

Tawse began with a modest 3.7ha. The original Cherry Avenue vineyard boasted Chardonnay planted in 1981 and Riesling planted in 1976 – old by Canadian standards.

After the purchase, he learned that a minimum of 4ha was required to legally register as an estate winery.

He was able to convince the neighbouring grower to sell him an adjoining 0.3ha. But there was a catch. Tawse also had to buy another 20ha site that his neighbour was trying to offload.

‘My neighbour didn’t like it because it was all stony limestone and he couldn’t get any sizeable crop from it,’ recounts Tawse. But being a keen Burgundy aficionado, he made the connection between limestone and great Chardonnay.

‘He sold me the land like it wasn’t worth anything. Now it’s one of my best vineyards,’ states Tawse, referring to his Quarry Road plot.

Tawse continued to buy vineyards guided by a singular focus on quality and terroir. ‘It was pretty easy to buy good sites if I paid up a little bit,’ he says.

Tawse Winery now has five vineyards totalling 66ha, all of which are located on Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula. This is usually sufficient to supply the winery with enough grapes, but in short vintages he sources fruit from a handful of like-minded growers with choice plots.

Explain the philosophy at Tawse Winery?

Soon after acquiring his first vineyard, Tawse broke ground on a cutting-edge gravity-flow winery, complete with a geothermal energy system. It was completed in 2005, the same year former carpenter Paul Pender arrived for a winemaking internship.

Pender stayed on, replacing the outgoing winemaker the following year, and immediately started the conversion to organic viticulture. ‘We figured that all of the great vineyards in the world are farmed organically,’ Pender says.

Tawse Winery was also Demeter certified biodynamic for 10 years, though has recently withdrawn. Pender explains that this has allowed them the freedom to farm the vineyards in the best way they see fit, which still includes many biodynamic practices.

Pender calls the winemaking non-interventionist and the philosophy has remained consistent since the start. He seeks elegance, balance and sense of place.

‘We aren’t looking to make big extracted wines or oxidised, reductive or weird, funky wines,’ he explains. The mantra is fresh and clean, with an emphasis on single-vineyard bottlings. They are unpretentious yet confident and distinct in their identity.

What’s the connection with Burgundy?

The inspiration at Tawse Winery is unequivocally Burgundy. In fact, prior to establishing his winery, Moray Tawse was looking to do the impossible: buy vineyards in the Côte d’Or.

Being based in Toronto, he soon realised that investing closer to home was more feasible on many levels. He started exploring Ontario’s wine country and was particularly impressed by the soils on the Niagara benchland.

‘I believe Ontario has the best terroir for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay behind Burgundy,’ Tawse declares. ‘Burgundy has a lot of marl and schist in its soils – things we don’t have. But we do have a lot of limestone.’

To help him achieve his vision, Tawse hired French-Canadian turned Burgundy superstar Pascal Marchand.

Tawse met Marchand at Clos des Epeneaux while on a cycling trip through Burgundy in the 1980s. The two stayed in touch and, when Marchand left Jean-Claude Boisset in 2006, Tawse was among his first clients.

Marchand continued consulting at Tawse Winery until 2008 when he partnered with his friend to form Burgundy négociant house Marchand-Tawse.

Tawse eventually acquired the vineyards in Burgundy that he originally sought when he bought Domaine Maume in Gevrey-Chambertin in 2012.

Splitting his time between the two projects, Tawse has formed a solid bond with winemakers in Burgundy. ‘They really taught me how to understand their grape varieties.’

According to Tawse, Ontario Chardonnay can stand up to Burgundy but the province’s Pinot Noir is still too young. ‘Pinot vines have to be 30 years old before they really develop personality,’ he states. Much of the region’s plantings are less than 20 years old.

And beyond Burgundy?

Besides vineyard designates of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Tawse Winery also produces multiple site-specific Riesling and Cabernet Franc. Both varieties benefit from Niagara’s position on the southwest corner of Lake Ontario.

‘The close proximity to the lake has a moderating effect, allowing for a longer, slower development,’ explains Pender.

Cabernet Franc usually hangs well into November, ripening beautifully year in and year out. If Chardonnay put Tawse on the map, Cabernet Franc is the winery’s brilliant sequel and a testament to this grape’s potential in Ontario.

As for Riesling, this is where Tawse Winery plays its value card, putting out an impressive range of wines under C$25 (£14.50), including a traditional-method sparkling.

The purchase of the Limestone Vineyard in 2012 added 18ha of Riesling to Tawse’s arsenal, making it the winery’s largest production.

To manage his ever-growing collection of vineyards, Tawse has established a sister winery, Redstone.

Based in Niagara Peninsula’s sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore, it focuses on red Bordeaux varieties and Syrah with the same winemaking philosophy. Tawse has also opened an 80-seat restaurant here – something else he has been able to cross off his bucket list.

Tawse assures me that he isn’t looking to expand further. But if the right terroir popped up, I have a feeling that he would find it difficult to resist.

Tawse Winery: the facts

Date founded 2000

Owner Moray Tawse (vice-president and co-founder of First National Financial Corporation)

Director of viticulture and winemaking Paul Pender

Annual production 25,000-30,000 cases/year

Area under vine 66ha, including Limestone Vineyard North (21.5ha), Quarry Road Vineyard (12ha) and Cherry Avenue Vineyard (8.5ha)

Key wines Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc

Tawse Winery: Michaela Morris tastes the latest releases

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The Canada wine crossword

Okanagan: Canada’s global wine region

Regional profile: Nova Scotia

Crossword Puzzle Maker

Pour yourself a glass of icewine and settle down to tackle this week’s Canada wine crossword…

Instructions:

• Click a cell on the crossword grid, or click a clue
• Click twice on a cell to toggle between across and down
• The active cell is highlighted in blue
• Start typing in the word
• Hit enter when you are done typing in the word
• The word will turn green or red if you got it right or wrong
• You can use the tab and shift-tab keys to move around the crossword, and the arrow keys

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• Try more wine crosswords here

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• Or download our learning app

‘We are creating something new. We are not following the path with centuries of history behind us. We are forging a new path every single day,’ says French viticultural consultant Alain Sutre.

Situated at the edge of the winegrowing world, on the 49th parallel north, the Okanagan Valley is a stunning landscape of ancient glacial lakes, ice dams and calderas enveloped by steep mountain ranges, sloped benches and hillsides comprised of silty, sandy, gravelly and stony soils.

Here in this marginal, cool to cold continental climate, vineyards are becoming recognised for their ability to produce world-class wines of outstanding quality, elegance and finesse.

‘Where we have a long history of wine on our shoulders in Europe, the Okanagan is more like a blank sheet of paper, where we can write a new history in a new land,’ says Sutre. ‘It is a fantastic experience to be a part of something from the very beginning.’

Untapped potential

Sutre has been coming to the Okanagan to try and understand the valley’s potential for winegrowing since 1999.

‘I was aware of the Canadian wine industry in Québec, he says. ‘I knew about ice wine but not much more than that.

‘When I first came to the Okanagan in 1999, it was to develop a new wine project, Osoyoos Larose. I stayed in the valley for a week or so and tasted some wines. I remember thinking, “well, the wines aren’t fantastic, but they might have the potential to be great someday”.’

Sutre now consults to a number of high-profile wineries within the Okanagan Valley, including Burrowing Owl, Culmina, Poplar Grove and Painted Rock.

‘I’ve been working with Alain for almost 14 years now,’ says John Skinner, owner of Painted Rock.

‘On a tip off from a nursery owner in Bordeaux, who I was buying some very specific varietal clones from, Alain took it upon himself to visit us here in the Okanagan. We took a walk through our vineyard, and afterwards he said he could help us improve our wines, which he absolutely has.’

Skinner, a former investment banker, says he wants to be ‘better, not bigger’. So to raise Painted Rock’s capacity for quality and fulfil his ambitious winegrowing endeavours, Skinner knew he had to hire experts like Sutre.

‘There’s no doubt we have some good home-grown talent here in BC, but we’re still a young industry,’ says Skinner. ‘We don’t yet have the facility within our region to educate and grow that community of experts we need. So, a lot of us have had to reach out for international guidance.’

Travelling winemakers

There are many stories of emerging wine regions importing human and intellectual capital from more established areas with greater experience in grape growing and wine making.

In the latter half of the 1800s in Australia’s Hunter Valley, bounty immigrants from Germany were brought over to labour in the vineyards. A century later, Australia’s first flying winemakers brought their own expertise to many northern hemisphere wine regions.

Today the Okanagan Valley is benefiting from the knowledge and experience of viticultural and winemaking consultants from across the winemaking world, including Bordeaux’s Michel Rolland at Mission Hill Winery, and both Tuscany’s Alberto Antonini and Chile’s Pedro Parra at Okanagan Crush Pad.

‘When I first came to the Okanagan, I was struck by its beauty and the energy of the people and their pioneering spirit,’ says Olivier Humbrecht MW of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, who works with one of the region’s newest wineries, Phantom Creek Estate.

‘When I started to taste the region’s wines, I knew there was potential for greatness here.’

Humbrecht has been hired to help develop Phantom Creek’s vineyards and transition them over to an organic and biodynamic farming regime, working closely with Napa Valley viti/vini power couple Anne and Cameron Vawter and New Zealand winemaker Francis Hutt.

‘Whenever you bring people like me or Francis over from another wine region, the danger is in trying not to replicate the place you are from in the new place,’ explains Humbrecht.

‘The last thing I want Phantom Creek to do is copy other regions’ wines – to try and make a red Bordeaux or a Burgundian Pinot, or even try to make wine to a New Zealand style.

‘My job is to help them find out what the signature of the Okanagan is, so they can start making great Okanagan wine, using grapes from the Okanagan and winemaking methods from the Okanagan, which are developed and proven over time.’

He adds: ‘Replication might be inevitable at the beginning – and we are at the beginning – but it should never be the ultimate goal.’

Australasian influence

Having recently arrived from Carrick Wines in Central Otago, Hutt is eager to push the progression of the Okanagan Valley as an emerging, potentially world-class wine region.

‘It’s not really my style to come in and blaze away,’ says Hutt. ‘My role, first and foremost, is to make the best wines possible. And the way to do that is to collaborate with Olivier and everyone here in the Okanagan community.

‘We need to combine our experiences and learn from each other and the environment. That’s how we make the best wines possible: together.’

Another expat forging a new winemaking life in the Okanagan is Australia-via-California winemaker Phil McGhan of Checkmate Winery, which specialises in premium examples of Chardonnay and Merlot.

‘One of the things that drew me [to the Okanagan] was that there were vineyards that were already quite established,’ says McGhan, ex winemaker of Williams Selyem in California’s Russian River Valley.

‘At Checkmate, we have access to 20-year-old Merlot vines and 45-year-old Chardonnay vines, which are as old as anything I’ve ever worked with.

‘These vines are hitting that phase where they’re starting to produce really interesting, complex wines which will help shape and identify the Okanagan Valley as a place of unique wine.’

Local knowledge

At the southern end of the valley in the desert town of Osoyoos, right on the border with the USA, Carol and Dan Scott of Lariana Cellars have been growing grapes on a former summer campground – Shady Lagoon – for the past decade and crafting wines which, while popular with locals, remain mostly unknown outside of BC, let alone Canada.

‘There’s no doubt that experts from outside North America coming to the Okanagan – consulting, moving here and even starting their own wineries – has resulted in more international exposure for the valley and really elevated the overall quality of the wines being produced here over the past 10 years,’ says Carol.

‘But we mustn’t forget there are many local pioneers who’ve contributed greatly to the establishment of the Okanagan Valley today as a winegrowing region.’

She cites Senka Tennant and Richard Cleave, who work for her, as two key names.

Croatian-born Tennant moved to Canada aged 13 and has worked in the Okanagan for more than 20 years. She was winemaker and founder of Terravista Vineyards in Naramata as well as Black Hills winery in Oliver, among others. Viticultural consultant Richard Cleave is a 40-year veteran of Okanagan grape growing who has helped establish Burrowing Owl Estate and Phantom Creek in the mid 1990s, as well as Lariana Cellars in 2007.

Both have worked with Howard Soon, awarded the Order of Canada in 2019 for services to the BC wine industry. With 38 vintages under his belt at, among others, Calona/Andrew Peller, Sandhill, Red Rooster, Tinhorn Creek and now Vanessa Vineyards in the Similkameen Valley, he is Canada’s longest-serving winemaker.

Others include Robert Goltz and Harry McWatters who, until their deaths in 2019, were regularly sought out for their wealth of expertise with regards to soils, climate and knowledge the right terroirs for specific varieties.

BC’s door is open

Languedoc-born Severine Pinte, winemaker for Le Vieux Pin and La Stella wineries has seen just how much the valley has evolved in 25 years – from the early, enthusiastic rush to plant vines just about anywhere, to now thinking more deeply about site and varietal selection.

‘When I arrived in 1996, the idea of terroir was not really thought about. A few wineries were dedicated to finding balance from their vines, but many were content with just making wine – maybe adding a little bit of this or a little bit of that to fix up mistakes later,’ says Pinte.

‘There’s a shift now to identifying the best places to grow the best grapes, and a lot more focus on how to manage a vineyard according to what the terroir is trying to say.’

Pinte is quick to emphasise how positive this evolution has been by echoing Alain Sutre’s sentiments regarding Europe’s long history with winegrowing – forging a new path instead of following a well-trodden one.

‘I’ve accomplished way more in 10 years in the Okanagan than I could have ever done in 10 years in France,’ she says.

‘We’re a very young wine region compared to the rest of the world, and the door is still wide open to new ideas and passionate people.’

Daniel Honan’s pick from ‘global’ Okanagan

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British Columbia wines: Can they compete?

Exciting Canadian wines to try

Steven Spurrier’s top British Columbia wines

Capsa

How often can you go out for brunch and be offered a glass of fino to pair with your plate? Owned by a Québecois chef and a Portuguese sommelier, Capsa offers a typical brunch menu with a delectable Portuguese touch in a downtown setting. The result is delicious and savoury!

• Address: 175 Ontario East
• Open: all week 7am-3pm

Manitoba

Chef Simon Mathys aims to help Montrealers reconnect with and discover the food of Canada’s First Nations. The main dish here is prepared with seal, served rare in a buckwheat creamy sauce as eaten by the Inuit First Nations traditionally. An exciting experience.

• Address: 271 St Zotique Ouest
• Open: Monday-Thursday 6pm-10pm, Friday & Saturday 6pm-12am

Taverne Square Dominion

Located in the heart of Montreal since 1927, the atmosphere of this tavern is both fancy and casual at the same time. The extended wine list boasts selections of Burgundy and Bordeaux classics, some rare German and even Quebecois wines to pair with French bistro cuisine. And it’s a known go-to for wine connoisseurs.

• Address: 1243 rue Metcalfe
• Open: Monday-Friday 11.30am-12am, Saturday & Sunday 4.30pm-12am

Furco

It is in a warm atmosphere close to Place des Festivals that Furco welcomes you with an effortless yet tasty menu of fresh plates. A perfect setting for the first glass of wine of the evening. The wine list is full of new discoveries, such as Xinomavro blanc de noir or natural Austrian orange wine.

• Address: 425 rue Mayor
• Open: Monday-Saturday 3pm-3am, Sunday closed

Vinvinvin

This new natural wine bar with a lively atmosphere is the must-visit place for chatting with friends while tasting wines from small producers. Menu choices such as small fresh veggie plates and fish pair well with the sparkling and white wines offered. Lovers of German and Austrian wine will be especially pleased to note the wine list’s showcasing of these countries.

• Address: 1290 Beaubien, est
• Open: Sunday-Thursday 3pm-1am, Friday & Saturday 3pm-3am

Moleskine

Easily one of my favourite Friday night spots in Montreal. The best pizza in town, a great cellar and a good selection of wine by the glass. You can sit just in front of the wood-fired oven or go upstairs to enjoy a fancier, semi-private ambience. There will be vinyl spinning – bring your dancing shoes!

• Address: 3412 Avenue du Parc
• Open: Tuesday & Wednesday 11.30am-10.30pm, Thursday & Friday 11.30am-11pm, Saturday 5pm-11pm

Agrikol

Fine Haitian cuisine for those cold Montreal evenings. Owned by two members of the band Arcade Fire, this restaurant offers an introduction to Haitian cuisine in a lively Caribbean atmosphere. The wine list is limited, but eccentric. Try some ti-punch, a typical rum-based cocktail.

• Address: 1844 rue Amherst, Le Village
• Open: Tuesday-Sunday 5.30pm-11pm, Monday closed

Le 409

Indian cuisine can easily be found around Montreal, but seldom is it offered in such a great and casual ambience. Located in the old port of Montreal near Downtown, this Indian pub is the perfect spot for early dinner before visiting a nearby museum. Visitors will find delicious Indian gastronomy paired with a great selection of wines by the glass.

• Address: 409 McGill
• Open: Monday-Friday 11.30am-10pm, Saturday 5pm-11pm, Sunday closed

Moccione

Located on Rue Villeray near Jarry Park, this Italian restaurant recently marked its first anniversary, and it has everyone talking. The classic dishes transport you to the heart of Italy. The use of fresh, simple and tasty ingredients is the chef’s secret here.

• Address: 380 Villeray
• Open: Lunch and dinner available

Le Petit Alep

No trip to Montreal would be complete without a stroll around the most popular outdoor market – Jean-Talon. Directly facing, Petit Alep serves richly flavoured Middle Eastern cuisine. Ask to speak with the sommelier, whose competent advice and stories will open you to a whole new world of discovery. It’s also possible to visit the impressive underground cellar.

• Address: 191, rue Jean-Talon East (corner of de Gaspé av.)
• Open: Tuesday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday & Monday closed

Find more city guides here

Located in the far east of Canada, Nova Scotia is readily associated with succulent cold-water lobster. But wine? Astonishingly, grapevines were first planted here in 1633.

Alas, inhospitable weather, a preference for beer and spirits as well as the strong temperance movement thwarted any preliminary hopes of developing a wine industry.

Nevertheless, the search for suitable wine grapes began in the early 20th century. Eventually, in 1962, local researchers found a new hybrid called V-53261 which showed potential for cool-climate viticulture.A few years later, Roger Dial moved from California to Nova Scotia to teach political science. His winegrowing hobby turned into a full-blown obsession when he purchased 120ha with the vision to turn the Annapolis Valley into the Napa of Nova Scotia. In 1979, he established Grand Pré (now Domaine de Grand Pré), Nova Scotia’s first commercial winery. The vineyards were planted to a number of hybrids including V-53261, which Dial renamed L’Acadie Blanc after the Acadians – early settlers in Canada’s Maritime and Québec provinces. L’Acadie Blanc has since become Nova Scotia’s flagship grape.

While Grand Pré was soon followed by Jost Vineyards (Nova Scotia’s largest winery), the crucial turning point for the province wasn’t until the mid-2000s. There was a significant increase in small-farm wineries and the Winery Association of Nova Scotia was formed. Today Nova Scotia has 19 wineries.

Challenges

Despite continued growth, the cool and wet marginal climate remains a challenge. Surrounded by large bodies of water, Nova Scotia is maritime in its geography. Yet strong westerly winds make it decidedly continental, with wide diurnal and seasonal temperature differences. Winter starts in January and can last until May. Late spring frost is a serious threat and, in 2018, decimated 40% of production. ‘Growing grapes on the Atlantic Ocean has its challenges, to say the least,’ says Simon Rafuse, winemaker at Blomidon Estate Winery. ‘We had a hurricane hit us a couple of weeks ago.’ That was mid-September.

Most Nova Scotia vineyards are located in the province’s southwest – in the Annapolis Valley and its sub-valley of Gaspereau. Sandwiched between the North and South Mountains, the area is protected from cool offshore winds and moderated by the Bay of Fundy, home to the world’s largest tides. The moderating influence extends the ripening season into late October and even early November.

The extreme climate limits which grape varieties are successful. French-North American hybrids were initially selected for their winter hardiness, and reds in particular were chosen to meet perceived market demand. Maréchal Foch is still Nova Scotia’s fourth most planted grape. In the last decade, producers have turned their attention to white varieties and L’Acadie Blanc dominates, accounting for 30% of Nova Scotia’s production. Floral scented with apple and citrus flavours, this convoluted hybrid is made up of eight different Vitis species and includes Pedro Ximénez and Muscat in its parentage.

Vinifera plantings are more recent as its varieties tend to be more susceptible to disease, less winter hardy and take longer to ripen. Chardonnay is the most planted of these and third overall, after hybrid New York Muscat. Other varieties include Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc as well as Cabernet Franc, which is making some smart rosés. In all, Nova Scotia boasts more than 50 different grape varieties, most grown in minuscule amounts.

Calling cards

Above all, it is style that defines Nova Scotian wines and two distinct types have emerged. Most notable on an international scale are traditional-method sparkling wines. The long, cool autumn encourages phenolic ripeness with low sugar accumulation and bracing acidity – a lot like Champagne. Indeed, the classic trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier feature in Nova Scotia bubbles but L’Acadie Blanc is also a key player. Regardless of grape, the signature is light, racy and linear with an ‘energising saline minerality’, according to Jocelyn Lightfoot, co-founder of Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards.

The newly established appellation of Tidal Bay best captures Nova Scotia’s other calling card: crisp, subtly aromatic, still whites. The blend must be led by hybrids L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc and the unromantically named Geisenheim 318, while overtly pungent grapes like Gewürztraminer and New York Muscat are limited to no more than 15%.

The wines are modest in alcohol (9% to 11%), fruity rather than oak-driven and typically off-dry (a maximum of 20g/l residual sugar is permitted). Launched in 2012 with the 2011 vintage, the Tidal Bay appellation seeks to create a loosely cohesive style under one blanket name. ‘L’Acadie Blanc is a difficult story to tell, while an appellation encompassing Nova Scotia’s many grapes is easier,’ says Mark DeWolf an educator for the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers and one of the instigators for the appellation.

Nova Scotia has a long way to go to reach Napa Valley’s magnitude or status as Roger Dial once dreamed. More importantly it is forging a clear identity, with well-defined wine styles that match brilliantly with the province’s legendary lobster.

Michaela Morris is a wine writer, educator, judge and speaker based in Vancouver, who contributes to Decanter on Canada and Italy

Nova Scotia at a glance

Number of wineries: 19

Area under vine: 400ha

Production: 1.9 million litres (2017)

First vineyard established: 1633

First commercial winery: Grand Pré in 1979

Tidal Bay appellation established: 2011

Most planted grape varieties: L’Acadie Blanc, New York Muscat and Chardonnay 

Nova Scotia wines to try:

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Exciting Canadian wines to try

Vin Room boasts the largest wines by the glass program in Canada. Using innovative enomatic wine serving systems, Vin Room is able to preserve their wines for weeks at a time while still keeping the quality of the wines as if they had just been open. With this system in place, all three Calgary-based locations offer an impressive 85 wines by the glass.

By the ounce, glass or bottle, Vin Room encourages guests to ‘discover wine your way’ and approach wine sampling with adventure and independence. Alongside their extensive wine list, each wine bar and restaurant offers a tapas menu made with local and regional ingredients, infused with a global twist.

Recently, Vin Room YYC Airport won best Airport Wine Bar in the 2019 Global Food and Beverage Awards and has the largest number of wines by the glass of any airport wine bar.

For the month of November, Vin Room is showcasing four DWWA 2019 award-winning wines across all three locations – Vin Room Mission, Vin Room West and Vin Room YYC Airport – and is offering these medal winners by the 2-ounce taste, 6-ounce glass, half bottle or bottle.

See full DWWA 2019 results

DWWA 2019 award-winning wines available at Vin Room this November

Landmark Vineyards, Overlook Chardonnay, Sonoma County, California, USA 2016

Award: Silver, 90 points

Tasting notes: Complex and impressive with a seductive richness. Notes of toast, butter and cream are complemented by the freshness of pineapple, melon and apple, finished with wonderful nutty oak.

Edoardo Miroglio, Soli Pinot Noir, Thracian Valley, Southern Region – Thracian Lowland, Bulgaria 2016

Award: Bronze, 87 points

Tasting notes: Barnyard, sous bois and forest floor characters. Soft ripe cherries and good oak integration with deep complexity.

Mitolo, Jester Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia 2016

Award: Bronze, 87 points

Tasting notes: Rich, ripe dark fruit with complex layers of blue flowers and peppery spice. Good length.

Benjamin Bridge, Méthode Classique Brut, Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia, Canada NV

Award: Bronze, 86 points

Tasting notes: Lemon, golden apple and slightly grassy notes, with bready characters emerging before the long finish.

Vin Room locations

Website: www.vinroom.com

Promotion period: 1-30 November 2019

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Can the cream of the BC crop stand up against top wines from around the world? Michaela Morris reports...

British Columbia produces a mere drop of the world’s total wine production, and less than 5% of this makes it outside Canada.

Unsurprisingly then, Canada’s westernmost province has done very little benchmarking. That is until 2015, when renowned wine expert and Decanter’s consultant editor, Steven Spurrier paid a visit.

The British Columbia Wine Institute took the opportunity to stage a comparative blind tasting modelled after Spurrier’s legendary Judgement of Paris 1976 tasting, pitting British Columbia Chardonnay and Syrah against international counterparts.

It has since become an annual event with Riesling and Pinot Noir in 2016 followed by Merlot and Pinot Gris in 2017. In these past competitions, both local and international contenders were thoughtfully selected solely by wine consultant and educator, DJ Kearney.

The tasting

For the 2018 edition, Kearney assembled a panel of six seasoned Canadian professionals (myself included) to determine which wines would represent British Columbia. From a blind tasting of 30 traditional method sparkling wines and 99 red Bordeaux blends, we whittled it down to the top six in each category. Kearney did not reveal which wines we had chosen.

For the international opponents, Kearney selected six established benchmarks for each category, at comparable prices and with both a global reputation and successful track record in British Columbia.

Held on 24 October 2018, the competition brought together 37 judges from across Canada, the USA, the UK and Asia. Each rated the 12 wines per category individually, before all scores were averaged for a collective ranking.

Continue reading below

The sparkling wine flight

This was an absolute pleasure, both in the selection process and at the final competition. While it was not surprising that the international wines dominated, it was somewhat shocking that California’s Roederer Estate beat both Veuve Clicquot and Pierre Paillard. The fourth, fifth and sixth positions went to British Columbia contenders.

I was somewhat of an outlier, rating BC’s Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs 2010 as number one. Nevertheless, based on the judges’ general enthusiasm, I’m not alone in my belief that traditional-method sparkling wine is one of the region’s strengths.

The judges’ results

1. Roederer Estate, Brut, Anderson Valley, California, USA NV

2. Veuve Clicquot, Brut, Champagne, France NV

3. Pierre Paillard, Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru XIII, Champagne, France NV

4. Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars, Blanc de Blancs RD, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2010

5. Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery, The One, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2012

6. Sperling Vineyards, Brut Reserve, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2011

7. Graham Beck, Brut Zero, South Africa 2011

8. Tantalus Vineyards, Blanc de Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

9. Segura Viudas, Brut Reserva Heredad, Penedès, Spain NV

10. The View Winery, Pearls Traditional Brut, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2016

11. Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards, Fitz Brut, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

12. Mumm Napa, Brut Prestige, California, USA NV

The Bordeaux blends flight

Red Bordeaux blends are a popular category in British Columbia. Merlot is the most planted grape overall, and Cabernet Sauvignon is third amongst the reds. However, the Okanagan Valley’s compressed growing season, with hot days and cool nights, makes it difficult to achieve balanced sugar and phenolic ripeness. Overtly green tannins sometimes rear their ugly head.

In the selection round, we also came across a number of very extracted, heavily oaked wines. ‘We eliminated these and looked for the more elegant examples,’ my fellow panelist, Rhys Pender MW explained to the judges.

This clearly allowed British Columbia to put its best foot forward: Poplar Grove’s The Legacy 2014 and Laughing Stock Vineyards’ Portfolio 2015 took the top two spots.

Among the international wines, Blackbird’s opulently styled Arise blend from Napa Valley ranked third. While my own preference leaned towards the more restrained Bordeaux, it was in fact the Bordeaux-esque Osoyoos-Larose from British Columbia that gained my top mark.

The judges’ results

1. Poplar Grove Winery, The Legacy, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

2. Laughing Stock Vineyards, Portfolio, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

3. Blackbird, Arise, Napa Valley, California, USA 2015

4. Dominus Estate, Napanook, Napa Valley, California, USA 2014

5. Intersection Estate Winery, Axiom, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

6. Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc, Bordeaux, France 2015

7. CedarCreek Estate Winery, The Last Word, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

8. Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery, Le Grand Vin, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2015

9. DeLille Cellars, D2, Columbia Valley, Washington State, USA 2013

10. Clos du Soleil Winery, Signature, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada 2014

11. Chateau de La Dauphine, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France 2015

12. Chateau d’Armailhac, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 2015

This was the first time that a wine from British Columbia has come first in my personal ranking – not just in one but in both categories. I, like many of my Canadian colleagues, have been tough on our local wines, but clearly they have risen to the challenge on this occassion.

Canada factbox:

Total planting in Canada 12,540ha

Total annual wine production in Canada (VQA or 100% Canadian grapes) 43 million litres

Total plantings in British Columbia 4,249ha

Total annual wine production in BC (VQA or 100% BC grapes) >14 million litres

Most widely planted white varieties in BC Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc

Most widely planted red varieties in BC Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah

Total exports from across Canada <5% of overall production

Michaela’s top-rated wines from the tasting:

We asked Michaela to pick her top six sparking wines and her top six Bordeaux blends

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Exciting Canadian wines to try

Jefford on Monday: Ontario’s wild ride

Michaela Morris’ top fine wines of 2018

Andrew Jefford returns to the Niagara Escarpment...

Jefford on Monday: Ontario’s wild ride

Human beings love to simplify. All simplifications, though, are fallible; they sacrifice nuance on the altar of clarity. A recent visit to the vineyards of Canada’s Ontario, back in early October, made this point several times over.

Scroll down for a Andrew Jefford’s pick of Onatrio wines

Winemaking in Ontario is considered (for example) to take place in the extreme north, and to be a radical example of cool-climate viticulture. Given that the province produces 80 per cent of the world’s Icewine, that has to be true, right?

‘We’re not a northerly region,’ points out Angelo Pavan of Cave Spring. ‘We’re on the same latitude as Florence.’ (Actually a slightly lower latitude: Florence is 43.77˚N whereas Niagara Falls is 43.06˚N.)

‘And I don’t like the ‘cool-climate’ tag,’ he continues, ‘because we’re very warm in summer. That’s one reason why we’re the biggest wine region in North America east of the Rockies.’

Again, he’s right. The daily mean July temperature is 21.3˚C in Niagara, and in August 20.4˚C (according to www.climate-data.org). That’s hotter than Beaune, for example, whose equivalent figures from the same source are 19.7˚C and 19.2˚C. Not only that, but it’s warmer than Bordeaux, too (19.8˚C and 20˚C).

A better way of summarising Ontario would be to say that it’s a mid-latitude location with warm summers – but extreme continentality, hence its deep-freeze winters. The result of this is the ‘wild ride’ through spring and autumn which every Ontarian winegrower will tell you about. ‘Volatility in the shoulder seasons,’ says Stratus’s Suzanne Janke, ‘is our biggest challenge.’

In truth ‘wild’ is an adjective which can apply to almost any moment of the year in Ontario — but since that seems to be increasingly true of most vineyard zones, this may be the climate-change joker at play.

Ontario, for example, was unlucky enough to have to endure two periods of extraordinary cold during the successive winters of 2014 and 2015, when temperatures dropped to -30˚C or so (formerly considered a ‘once in a 100 year’ event).

‘In February 2015,’ recalled Pavan, ’93 per cent of the surfact of the Great Lakes froze. The only place it didn’t freeze was the western end of Lake Ontario. That’s why we’re still here.’

Indeed vineyards in the higher parts of Niagara, like the Chardonnay of Queylus up at the top of the Escarpment, were destroyed. This is the only global vineyard region I have ever visited where there are braziers at winery entrances and stacks of blankets in the tasting rooms.

In 2017, by contrast, it rained every three days between April and August, threatening a different sort of disaster. Then the weather changed; sunshine lit the vineyards until November, and the harvest was, in the end, a fine one. The 2016 season even flirted with drought. Ontario growers never know quite what’s coming – except that the changes brought by spring and autumn will be dramatic, stark and rapid, and that the seasons between can be extreme.

Another simplification whose neat outlines look, on closer inspection, at bit smudgy concerns what we might call the vocation of Ontario’s vineyards, together with its ideal varieties and its overall wine style.

Icewine aside, all resist easy summary. Ontario’s wines are not in any way forceful, bright, overt, ‘fruit-driven’, large-boned or generous. Not classically ‘New World’, in other words. (Such descriptions do, by contrast, sometimes fit the wines of British Columbia – wines with a clear North American stamp to them.)

‘We’re mid-Atlantic,’ says Ontario-based French winemaker Sébastien Jacquey of Meglomaniac, and with reason. Successful Ontario wines (there are still many failures) have a subtlety, an attractive quietness, a grain and a poise to them which makes them, like European wines, attractive food partners. They would make treacherous blind-tasting bottles for the MW exam.

Ontario’s genres and varieties, too, defy easy categorization We’re familiar with fanfares for English sparkling wines – but it can’t be long before the world wakes up to the potential of Ontario’s equivalents.

‘Give us another decade,’ says Marty Werner of Ravine Vineyard Estate, ‘and we will make some of the best traditional-method sparkling wine on the planet. I’m betting my eggs on it.’

Backing up his claim is the Platinum medal Ravine pocketed for its NV Brut in this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards. Nor was that Ontario’s only success in this class: Trius also unhooked a Platinum for its Rosé Brut. Production of sparkling wines in Ontario has tripled since my last visit almost five years ago.

Niagara did, though, manage something even better: a wine in top-tier ‘Best in Show’ category of this year’s DWWA, from the Beamsville Bench winery Thirty Bench – and it was based on the variety local insiders have been tipping over the last decade: Cabernet Franc. There aren’t many Cabernet Francs at this level yet, but the best really can front up to Bourgueil and Chinon.

When you taste the quality of Pinots and Chardonnays of wineries like Tawse, Hidden Bench, Pearl Morissette and Queylus, you begin to wonder why Burgundian families, so stymied back home for ways to expand and invest their new-found wealth, haven’t yet found their way to Ontario. White blends of Sauvignon and Semillon convince, too. And just when you think you’ve got the bases covered, a sniff and a sip of one of the great Rieslings from Cave Spring has you re-setting the cultural dial all over again.

This is all as it should be, given the youthfulness of Canada’s wine-making ambitions (only two percent of Ontario’s wines were made from vinifera varieties back in 1976). Wild weather permitting, we can look forward to more classification-challenging years ahead.

Andrew Jefford’s Ontario wines to try

Read all Andrew Jefford columns on Decanter.com

Throughout November 2018, Vin Rooms across all 3 locations will be showcasing 8 awarded wines from this year’s DWWA.

Vin Room restaurant and wine bar has over 85 wines available by the glass. Their ethos is that wines are as unique and individual as the people who enjoy them and this is why at all their locations in Canada they offer a setting for people to explore a collection without feeling obligated to commit to a bottle or a glass purchase.

Vin Room uses innovating enomatic wine serving systems, which preserves their wines for weeks at a time however still keeping the quality of the wines as if they had just been open. The restaurant produces globally inspired cuisine made with local and regional ingredients, that all complement their rather extensive wine list too.

At Vin Rooms they like to encourage their guests to approach wine sampling with adventure and independence. Like well-travelled guides their experienced staff members are always on hand to help and answer any questions you may have.

Throughout November 2018, Vin Rooms across all 3 locations will be showcasing 8 awarded wines from this year’s DWWA.

They are also offering these award winning wines by the glass from 1^st – 30^th November.

Promotion period: 1st – 30th November 2018

Store locations:

– Mission, 2310 – 4th Street SW, Calgary, Alberta, Canada T2S 1X2

– West, 8561 – 8A Ave SW, Calgary, Alberta, Canada, T3H 0V5

– YYC Airport, Calgary International Airport, 2016D Airport Road NE, Calgary, Alberta, Canada, T3H 0V5

Website: www.vinroom.com

See full DWWA 2018 results

Heard of ‘Icewine’ but not quite sure what it is, or how it is made? Read on...

What is Icewine? Ask Decanter

Icewine – or ‘Eiswein’ – is a type of sweet wine, originally made in Germany and Austria, but also more recently in Canada and China.

The grapes are left on the vine into the winter, and eventually the water in the grapes will freeze.

These frozen grapes are quickly picked and pressed, so that the juice made is very high in sugar, which is then made in to wine, which is luscious and sweet.

The main grapes for ice wine are Riesling and Vidal Blanc.

‘The temperature needs to be below -7°C or -8ºC before the grapes can be picked for these ultra-concentrated sweet wines,’ said Natasha Hughes in the January 2013 issue of Decanter magazine.

‘Harvest often takes place overnight at a time of year when the vineyards are usually blanketed in a thick layer of snow.

‘Such conditions must create additional peril for those picking grapes on the already dangerously steep slopes of the Mosel, yet harvesting casualties are luckily rare.’

What Icewine tastes of

Ice wines tend to have flavours such as citrus and tropical fruits, honey and marmalade.

‘You’re unlikely to find any botrytis on any of these grapes – the idea is to create wines with intense fruit flavours,’ said Hughes.

See also: Tasting notes decoded

In the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards, the Wayne Gretzky Estates, No.99 Vidal Icewine won a Platinum medal.

‘A tropical nose with hints of orange and honey leads to an intense palate of peach, mango and well balanced caramel over citrus zest.’

The Chateau Changyu Icewine 2015 from China also won a gold medal.

Judges praised it for ‘Savoury notes are overlaid by flowers and lime on the nose. The palate shows candied peel mingled with hints of tea and oodles of marmalade.’

More wine questions answered