Passports in hand, they waited patiently. Despite getting there early to avoid the inevitable crowds, the queue quickly grew; the hundreds of like-minded souls buzzing with excitement at their impending world tour.

No, not your typical Saturday morning at Heathrow Terminal 5, but outside The Empire Room at the Landmark London Hotel, where wine lovers attending London’s 28th Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) were awaiting entry to the exclusive Cellar Collection 2025.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 21 wines: a highlight from each producer at the Cellar Collection 2025

This year’s Cellar Collection – the fourth edition – offered guests the chance to experience a deep dive into a flagship cuvée from 21 estates.

In a curated mini vertical, each winery poured three back vintages of one iconic wine to demonstrate its evolution, with several bottles more than 25 years old.

Many estates brought up to eight wines – some in magnums and double magnums – to further boost the exclusivity of this experience.

Tickets to the Cellar Collection 2025, which held one three-hour session in the morning and then another in the afternoon, were strictly limited and available to purchase in addition to the Grand Tasting tickets.

And as with last year, the calibre of producers ensured both sessions sold out.

Each guest received a Cellar Collection passport, gaining a stamp at each table visited on their world tour – a memento of meeting the people behind these famous estates and having them introduce three different vintages of an iconic wine in person.

Cellar Collection 2025: a world wine tour

When the doors opened, the crowds raced to Italy’s Masottina for its range of Prosecco and to Champagne houses Palmer & Co and Drappier.

Saint Clair from Marlborough in New Zealand, Napa Valley estate Chappellet and Rioja’s Remírez de Ganuza flew the flags for their respective countries as did Lebanon’s Chateau Musar, generously pouring a 1999 vintage of its flagship Bekaa Valley cuvée.

From South America it was Argentina’s Achaval Ferrer and Catena Zapata alongside Chile’s Santa Rita and Seña, with the latter showing five of its eight wines in magnum and the 2020 flagship cuvée in jeroboam.

Left Bank Bordeaux châteaux comprised three of France’s seven stands this year: St-Estèphe third-growth Calon-Ségur, Margaux second-growth Brane-Cantenac and Pessac-Léognan property Domaine de Chevalier.

This cru classé de Graves not only brought double magnums of each vintage of its grand vin red mini vertical (as well as a magnum of its 2015 grand vin white), but the 1995 was the oldest wine in the room.

M Chapoutier took the plaudits for the most diverse stand, showing six Rhône wines – including a trio of his Ermitage La Pavillon cuvée – as well as a Riesling from his Schieferkopf estate in Alsace and a white blend from his Bila-Haut domaine in Roussillon.

Italy was represented by four producers: Marchesi di Barolo from Piedmont, Fontodi from Tuscany and a brace of wineries from Sicily – Donnafugata and Cantine Florio, whose complex, saline 1998 Marsala Vergine Riserva was the second oldest wine in the room.

To finish on a sweet note, our Cellar Collection 2025 visitors clamoured to taste the three vintages of Sauternes from Bordeaux’s Château Suduiraut and the Nyulászó 6 Puttonyos Aszú from Hungary’s Royal Tokaji Co.

See you next year!

Passports stamped and memories made, our intrepid travellers disembarked from the Cellar Collection and continued their world wine adventures in the Grand Tasting, with occasional layovers in Masterclasses.

If you already have wine wanderlust we hope to see some of you at the DFWE Singapore on 22 November.

Or, for those based in the US, join us at our DFWE New York on 6 June. Look out for details on our events page.

Until then, read our full event report from London’s DFWE, check out our photo highlights and keep an eye peeled for our Masterclass reports on Decanter Premium soon.

Cellar Collection 2025: a highlight from each producer

A lot of people often make the mistake of thinking the Peter Michael Winery is located in Napa. The last bastions of vineyards within the northern Napa Valley AVA are on the fringes of the town of Calistoga.

But 10 minutes north of the town’s bustling main drag of tasting rooms, restaurants, and gift shops, a green and white sign emerges along Highway 128, marking the Sonoma County line.

Another three miles north of the county line is the Peter Michael Winery – very much in Sonoma.

From Great Britain to Sonoma

Established in 1982 by Sir Peter Michael, an engineer by trade and a tech entrepreneur (knighted in 1989 by the late Queen Elizabeth), and his wife Margaret, who raises South Devon cattle and farms a 405-hectare estate in the southern English county of Berkshire.

Their California estate is a serene setting, comfortably settled and well-established, a far cry from when it was an old neglected cattle ranch.

Today, Sir Peter and Lady Michael’s son and daughter-in-law, Paul and Emily, carry forth the vision of Peter Michael Winery as a family-owned estate.

In my opening remarks for the master class at Manhattan in downtown New York City, I mused that Peter Michael Winery is often confused as an icon of Napa Valley. This isn’t surprising, given its proximity to Calistoga and the fact that the winery produces wines from vineyards in Napa’s Oakville appellation.

However, the 304-hectare ranch that encompasses Peter Michael Winery’s tasting room, offices, cellar, vineyards, and family retreat falls explicitly within the Knights Valley AVA, a sub-appellation of Sonoma County.

It is aptly referred to as the ‘Knights Valley Estate’, most of which is a wildlife preserve home to bobcats, bears, raptors, eagles, and falcons. The other two vineyard estates are Seaview Estate in West Sonoma County and Oakville Estate in Napa Valley.

As of March 2020, Robert Fiore began producing the wines. Fiore is a soft-spoken, genial man who harbours an obsession for rocks. He first trained as a geophysicist, and his global travels as an earth scientist inevitably led to a fascination with wine.

Equipped with a Master of Science degree in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis, Fiore’s bio includes stints at Continuum with Tim Mondavi, Arietta with Andy Erickson, Spring Mountain Vineyard, and experience in Burgundy as a Confrèrie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Fellowship Laureate.

Fire and brimstone

The seminar room at Manhatta, with its floor-to-ceiling views of the New York City skyline, filled up with new and familiar faces. For the next hour and a quarter, winemaker Robert Fiore and I engaged in an enthusiastic, dynamic journey.

First, Fiore helped frame a picture of the Knights Valley estate. ‘We’re on the western slopes of Mount Saint Helena’, he explained, ‘which is what remains from early volcanic explosions. The vineyards are underlain with rhyolite which is a volcanic rock high in silica content. We have both rhyolitic tuff which is lithified ash and rhyolitic lava flows which range from white to grey and brown in colour.’

Fiore continued: ‘These varying pockets of tuff and rhyolite on steep hillsides lead to variations in blocks, whereas some hillside vines produce structure and present tannins, and others deliver more flesh and silky tannins’.

It is clear, therefore, that for Fiore, in the winery, these differences comprise just some of the building blocks for Peter Michael’s remarkably structured and age-worthy wines.

After a bit of history and soil talk, we delved into the tasting with three vintages of the estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon white blend L’Après-Midi (The Afternoon), followed by five vintages of the flagship Bordeaux blend, Les Pavots (The Poppies).

The wines of Peter Michael’s Knights Valley Estate

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2010

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2016

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2021

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2006

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2009

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2012

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2016

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2021

The wines

2010 L’Après-Midi

86% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Sémillon, 100% barrel-fermented, aged sur lies 8 months, biweekly bâtonnage, 15.2% 

I asked Robert how far back he’d tasted the L’Après-Midi whites. ‘Back to the mid-1990s vintages’, he said, ‘and they hold up incredibly well.’ 2010 was one of the coolest years in a decade, beginning with a wet and cold winter, but heat came in the end, and ripening was sufficient.

Shatter impacted the Sauvignon Blanc crop this vintage, so there was more Sémillon in the 2010 blend than is typical. We compared the colour to the 2021 vintage. The 2010 was darker and straw-flecked with gold hues. Incredibly fresh, rich with fruit weight, and deep concentration on the mid-palate, it harboured notes of salted Meyer lemon peel, honey, oyster shell, and parmesan rind. What was most striking was its freshness.

2016 L’Après-Midi

88% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Sémillon, 100% barrel-fermented, aged sur lies 8 months, biweekly bâtonnage, 14.5% 

‘The growing season was warm and dry, a continuation of the previous drought year with low winter rains from 2015 into 2016,’ I offered, then asked Robert how the crop turned out. ‘At the time of flowering, we had beautiful, perfect conditions and great fruit set’, he said. ‘In this vintage, more thinning was done in the vineyard.’

There was quite a leap in freshness between 2010 and this 2016, which exhibited bright salinity and floral notes, with citrus, orchard, and stone fruits resonating around an incredibly focused and balanced medium-bodied white with vivid acidity. Fiore explained that: ‘Luc Morlet had decided to plant the Sémillon in the early 2000s as a blending component with the Sauvignon Blanc’.

2021 L’Après-Midi

93% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Sémillon, native yeast, 100% barrel-fermented, aged sur lies 8 months, biweekly bâtonnage, 15.1% 

‘Coming off the heat-stricken 2020 growing season, there were minimal winter rains, which resulted in a very low-yielding year for Sauvignon Blanc (and Cabernet Sauvignon, as we will discover later in the tasting’, I began. ‘The months of June and July brought a good amount of heat, but then things tempered, and the season was even-keeled.’

The smaller amount of Sémillon ‘was more typical’, Fiore said. This gorgeous wine captivated the attendees. Its pale colour belied the power and integrity of this super fragrant and floral-driven white, with all the same flavours and round, rich textures as the 2010 and 2016, only young, subtle, compact – apricot cream instead of dried apricots and honeysuckle instead of honeycomb.

2006 Les Pavots

77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.5%

As we transitioned to the Les Pavots reds, I reminded everyone that our focus was strictly on the Knights Valley Estate in Sonoma – the source of all the grapes harvested for Les Pavots. For those who have collected Peter Michael wines, I asked Fiore to briefly remind us of the difference between Les Pavots and the winery’s other Bordeaux-style reds.

‘Au Paradis is a powerhouse red from our Oakville Estate in Napa Valley, and L’Esprit des Pavots is a blend from the Knights Valley estate and our Oakville estate, so a true California blend, made for early enjoyment’. L’Esprit des Pavots is French for ‘The Spirit of the Poppies’, a flower which grows among the vines.

2006 was a wet year, with hail and snow during the springtime. Frost damage impacted some hillside blocks. The coolness delayed flowering and a moderate growing season led to a later harvest in October. Absolutely riveting, this wine was full-bodied, complex, layered, and so inviting with its rich black truffle and earth notes interlaced with currant fruit and beautifully refined, almost powdery tannins perfectly integrated. A dusty, mineral quality nearly had some in the room fooled that we’d poured a Left Bank Bordeaux red.

2009 Les Pavots

66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 17 months in 100% French Oak, 15%

A slow and steady growing season with just a couple of heat spikes. The berries were in prime condition, harvested between 6 and 14 October. Both the 2009 and the 2006 are just instant classics by California standards. There’s a cooling quality to this full-bodied wine, a coolness in the fruit and wild herb aromatics, with ripe, present and integrated tannins that are soft and mellow, supporting still-ripe red and black fruits in the 2009. Tobacco and earth fill out the finish.

I wondered if the wines were unfined and unfiltered, and Robert explained that indeed they are, which, he said, ‘helps with long-term ageing to maintain structure and freshness.’

2012 Les Pavots

64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.8%

We nosed the 2012, and I explained that ‘this was an extraordinary year, following the cold and rainy 2011 vintage. The great 2013 vintage often overshadows this vintage, but both years are accessible now, especially this 2012, having shed its youthfully intense tannins, and it has a long way to go, plenty of structure, weight, and prettiness in its cigar box, currant fruits, full-bodied appeal and tremendous length underscored by good acidity.

2016 Les Pavots

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.6% 

I urged the attendees to compare 2012 to 2016 because ‘the blends are remarkably close, and the growing seasons have a lot in common – good winter and spring rain followed by moderate weather and later harvests.

‘The presence of oak is still quite powerful in the 2016, whereas it has softened with 2012’, I noticed, and added: ‘A watershed in the life of the wine, wherein you can see the trajectory of oak and its eventual integration after a decade of bottle ageing.’

I then asked Robert if there had been any major shifts in the barrel ageing regimen over the years. ‘No, it’s been consistent since the beginning,’ he replied, ‘which is a huge win for collectors. They get to experience vintage variation through the same lens of winemaking’. The 2016 showed ample dark fruit and spices, wild herbs, pixelated tannins and an excellent baseline of acidity.

2021 Les Pavots

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.8%

As discussed with the 2021 L’Après-Midi, the 2021 vintage ushered in extremely low yields, with vines producing very few clusters and very concentrated berries. ‘It’s similar in my mind to 2001, which is a year that produced very dark, very tannic wines with considerable structure,’ said Fiore.

The 2021 was just dynamite, showing its youthful exuberance in dark purple-black colour, heady primary, blue and black fruit aromatics, violet pastille, and sweet cedar.

Full-bodied and compact, with fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity. I pressed the room to observe the opulence of the wine and then to revisit the 2006 vintage as a bookend to our journey with Peter Michael and a sneak peek into the future of these drop-dead gorgeous wines – a promising future for anyone fortunate enough to have bottles in their cellar.

Related articles

• Photo highlights: Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2024
• The Peter Michael Winery retrospective tasting
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Soon after 9am – an hour before doors opened – queues started forming for the Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass, the first in a stellar programme of guided tastings at Decanter’s third Fine Wine Encounter in New York.

With three vintages each of first-growth Château Haut-Brion, its exquisite neighbour Château La Mission Haut-Brion and the Right Bank property Château Quintus, this sold-out masterclass proved that guests had no qualms about enjoying Bordeaux for breakfast.

Guillaume-Alexandre Marx, commercial director for the Domaine Clarence Dillon portfolio, led attendees through the 10 wines – including the 2021 vintage of white La Clarté de Haut-Brion.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the 10 wines tasted at the Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass

Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass: three stellar estates

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France 1995

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France 2005

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France 2010

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2003

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2006

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2009

Château Quintus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2016

Château Quintus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2018

Château Quintus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2020

Château Haut-Brion, La Clarté de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2021

Château La Mission Haut-Brion

1995

An early year, but a hot one (a common theme among the wines of this masterclass). This seduced in its aromatic display, holding court with both savoury notes of autumn leaves and the tartness of wild blackberries.

2005

Recognised as being a very fine vintage despite being very dry, with similar conditions to the legendary 1949 vintage, producing consistently excellent wines across all appellations in Bordeaux. This La Mission is no exception, and provided guests with an incredible sensory experience.

2010

The driest vintage since 1949, leading to high concentration and sugar levels. Cool nights helped to retain freshness. This wine was explosive, luxurious and sumptuous; powerful but still an absolute pleasure to drink now.

Château Haut-Brion

2003

Famously the hottest summer on record in France, with a heatwave that swept across the country. ‘In Bordeaux, we normally have an average of 16 days above 30°C,’ said Marx, ‘but in 2003 there were 49 days above 30°C.’ As a result, it was the earliest the estate had ever harvested.

Unusually, reds and whites were harvested by night, and for the first time refrigerated trucks were used to keep the grapes cool once picked. Now they’re used frequently. Because of the extreme conditions, the wine is even more impressive for its balance. It’s not heavy or cooked, and the tannins are silky and delicious.

2006

A varied winter and spring, but a hot and dry summer. Despite not being massively high-rated by critics, the wine is complete and now showing well. It came in the shadow of the highly lauded 2005.

2009

Another dry year, after sufficient rain in spring, producing one of the most arresting wines of the masterclass. The fruit quality felt impeccably pure and was underpinned by caperberry salinity and marvellous poise.

Château Quintus

2016

A consistent vintage that ticked all the boxes a winemaker could hope for. Purchased by Domaine Clarence Dillon in 2011, Quintus sees less new oak than its Left Bank cousins Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, at only 35%. ‘We try to be really soft on the extraction and new oak on Quintus, in order to preserve the freshness and elegance,’ said Marx.

2018

Stormy weather in spring slowed down the vines’ growth, but the summer was hot and there were not many problems from then on. This wine charmed right away, with its expressive, youthful, fleshy fruit.

2020

The vines’ growth cycle started early, the earliest since 1989, and this was followed by mildew risk because of spring rain. The summer was then exceptionally hot and dry, and has led to a highly concentrated wine, with lots of richness and opulence.

When and how to drink Domaine Clarence Dillon wines

While most people think Bordeaux comes into its own with long bottle age, Marx made the case for considering the situation and surroundings rather than the vintage. ‘You can drink a young vintage of La Mission, but you have to pair it with the right food,’ he advised.

‘If you’re drinking a young vintage, you don’t have to go for sophisticated food,’ he noted, suggesting that a top cut of meat on the barbecue served with mashed potato would provide just the right pairing.

On the other hand, the delicacy and subtlety of older vintages, such as the 1995 La Mission, would require more complex, refined dishes – ‘something lighter with a delicate mushroom sauce’, suggested Marx.

DFWE NYC 2024: the Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass wines:

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As the sun glimmered on the Hudson River, glinting off skyscrapers and filling the 60th floor of the Manhatta building with light, masterclass guests hung on legendary Rhône winemaker Michel Chapoutier’s every word.

Head of his family’s M Chapoutier winery, he launched into an impassioned, swooping discussion, weaving soil analysis, ampelography, the golden ratio, epigenetics (the ability of the plant to adapt its own genetics), the emotional intelligence of plants, rootstocks, vintage conditions, food pairings and his winemaking philosophy into an engaging, compelling and evocative performance.

Only the Jimi Hendrix of wine could capture an audience in such a way.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the eight wines tasted at Decanter’s M Chapoutier masterclass

Unlocking the secrets of terroir

If there is any winemaker qualified to talk about terroir, it is Michel Chapoutier. With his Sélections Parcellaires wines, he aims to showcase the unique song that different soils and vineyard sites can sing when given the chance.

To wine lovers today, this may seem an obvious conviction for a winemaker to have. After all, it is often a central part of their narrative. But, said Chapoutier during the masterclass, 40 years ago this wasn’t the case; generally soil wasn’t considered that important in the notion of terroir.

So he set out, not to try and make the best wines, but to try and take the best snapshot possible of an individual terroir. ‘Quite comfortable for a lazy winemaker like me,’ he told guests.

While there are 17 Sélections Parcellaires wines in the M Chapoutier universe – across the appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, Cornas, Condrieu and Châteauneuf-du-Pape – it was the Hermitage iterations that attendees at DFWE NYC 2024 were treated to on Saturday 8 June. Each was an individual expression, a soaring aria, of a tiny vineyard parcel.

The intricate patchwork of Hermitage hill

Through two whites and two reds, each across two vintages, Chapoutier explained to guests the unique characters each single-vineyard plot can express.

M Chapoutier, De L’Orée, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2018

M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2018

M Chapoutier, De L’Orée, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2014

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite Rouge, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2014

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite Rouge, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

Biodynamics

Having converted all of his vineyards to biodynamic farming in the early 1990s, Chapoutier has often been called a maverick. During the masterclass, he compared chemical farming to having a headache and taking an aspirin. It takes care of the symptoms but not the underlying problem.

Organic farming does the same, but instead of using the chemical molecule, it uses the natural molecule. Biodynamics, on the other hand, questions why you have the headache in the first place,; what the origin is.

One of the first things he noticed as an obvious result of converting to biodynamics was an increase in the wines’ natural level of acidity.

As well as explaining why biodynamics has such an important impact on his wines, Chapoutier stressed how the use of ambient yeasts for fermentation is also crucial to expressing the uniqueness of his terroir.

‘Wine is an aromatic symphony,’ he said. ‘With selected yeast, it’s like playing Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony with only the violin. But if you use wild yeast, you have a full symphony orchestra.’

According to Chapoutier, as well as soil, climate and human influence, vintage plays an important role when talking about terroir. What made this masterclass particularly fascinating was the ability to taste wines from differnt vineyard sites but from the same vintage side by side, as well as from an older vintage.

Food pairing potential

A winemaker who loves to cook, Chapoutier gave tantalising food-pairing suggestions for each of his wines.

The noble bitterness inherent in the Marsanne grape (the sole player in both the De L’Orée and Le Méal whites), lends itself particularly well to pairing – ‘a bridge for the marriage between wine and food’, he said.

Chapoutier suggested pairing De L’Orée 2018 with lamb curry, for example, or to take the pairing to another level with the traditional Chinese dish of century eggs. Le Pavillon 2014 he proposed lièvre à la royale (a French dish of hare slow cooked in red wine, heart, liver, lungs and blood), or roasted woodcock.

DFWE NYC 2024: the M Chapoutier masterclass wines

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With a soaring view looking down on the island of Manhattan, Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga, Count of Creixell, presented his family’s iconic wines from the historic Marqués de Murrieta estate during the final masterclass of the 2024 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC.

Dalmau explained that he was eager to share his family’s historic story and wines with Decanter’s US audience, and that the American market – New York and Miami in particular – is by far Marqués de Murrieta’s most important export market.

The masterclass and the wines on display told a story of three single vineyards within the revered Finca Ygay estate. Dalmau led attendees through an understanding of the terroir and growing conditions of these singular blocks within Ygay’s 300-hectare vineyard holdings.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the eight wines tasted at the Marqués de Murrieta masterclass at DFWE NYC 2o24

A historic sense of place

The Marqués de Murrieta winery was founded by Don Luciano, who, in the mid-1850s, sought to bring what he had learned about winemaking in Bordeaux to the Rioja Alta region.

Dalmau’s father purchased the property in 1983. They were already the owners of the Rias Baixas estate Pazo de Barrantes, which his family, the Counts of Creixell, had owned since the early 20th century.

Tragically, his father died suddenly in 1996 aged just 46. This left Dalmau, then just 26, with the heavy responsibility of managing the family’s two estates while mourning the loss of his young father.

Nonetheless, the pioneering spirit of its founder has continued with the Cebrián-Sagarriga family’s stewardship and Dalmau’s visionary approach as the president and owner of the current estate – though he is quick to pass on the credit for the estate’s amazing wines to his vineyards.

Marqués de Murrieta masterclass

The wines Vicente Dalmau poured for the masterclass told a story of the family’s estate vineyards, their ability to craft wines of the highest quality with uncanny ageability, and an eye for innovation in a region steeped in tradition.

Marqués de Murrieta, Dalmau, Rioja Alta, Spain 2014

Marqués de Murrieta, Dalmau, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja Alta, Spain 1980

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja Alta, Spain 2007

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja Alta, Spain 2009

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja Alta, Spain 2012

Marqués de Murrieta, Capellanía, Rioja Alta, Spain 2018

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain 1986

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines featured in this masterclass

Canajas

The Canajas site sits at 460m on calcareous limestone soils. These soils and elevation combine to impart a notable freshness to the fruit.

The wines from the Dalmau range come from this block. These are a creation of Vicente Dalmau and his decision to create a new take on Rioja, which includes Cabernet Sauvignon.

Marqués de Murrieta is the only winery in Rioja approved by the DOCa to use Cabernet Sauvignon, as its vineyard plantings predate the region’s restriction on Bordeaux varieties.

The Dalmau wine is a modern take, a sort of ‘Super Rioja’ in Dalmau’s words. In addition to Cabernet, Graciano plays a vital role in the wine’s style and longevity, its high acids adding plenty of freshness, minerality and ageability.

La Plana

With calcareous soils, La Plana is located in the upper part of the estate, at the highest elevation of the Ygay holdings, and mainly planted with Tempranillo and Mazuelo.

With vines dating to 1950, the plot has a history dating back to the origins of Marqués de Murrieta itself in the 19th century. At 40ha, it is the largest of the three single-vineyard sites. La Plana is also the source of the iconic red wine Gran Reserva Especial.

Given the importance of the Gran Reserva Especial to the estate’s history and portfolio, Vicente Dalmau refers to La Plana as the ‘heart and soul’ of Castillo Ygay.

Capellanía

A site charged with making the most remarkable bottling of Viura and the most intensely aged wine before release I’ve ever encountered. The Capellanía plot covers 6ha, planted in 1945 on a plateau at 485m. It is the highest elevation site within the Finca Ygay with calcareous clay soils.

Only about 3% of Rioja’s wines are white, but Finca Ygay makes two exquisite examples, both of which come from Capellanía. The key component of both wines is Viura, also known as Macabeo in Catalonia.

The freshness from the Viura variety is compounded by the Capellanía terroir, crafting wines that defy expectations about what is possible in Rioja.

Facing the future

Embracing their important role as a revered Rioja estate, the Cebrián-Sagarriga family believes that responsiveness and evolution are as important as tradition.

When creating the most recent Dalmau wines, Vicente Dalmau looked towards the future of both the Marqués de Murrieta estate and the wider Rioja region. He and the winemaking team are equally concerned with a changing climate and its impact on viticulture and the wines of the region and estate but also wanted a wine to appeal to changing tastes and modernising historic Rioja.

Siding with adaptability rather than strict dogma, the Marques de Murrieta wines have continued to evolve. As the climate warms, the iconic red wines will see higher percentages of Mazuelo (Cinsault) and Graciano, according to Dalmau.

These varieties are an important way to address climatic challenges. Furthermore, they bring higher acidity, brighter red fruits, savoury elegance and minerality to freshen the palate which appeals to modern drinkers.

In production, the Ygay estate has long embraced the continued and increasingly important use of concrete fermentation vessels to finish the wines, giving them lift, brightness, and freshness.

Modern renovations to their production facility have preserved its historical importance while updating with an eye towards efficiency. In order to maintain a superior level of quality, Dalmau and the team at Marqués de Murrieta are committed to an ethos of resilience.

DFWE NYC 2024: the Marqués de Murrieta masterclass wines

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Passports in hand, they waited patiently. Despite getting there early to avoid the inevitable crowds, the queue quickly grew, the hundreds of like-minded souls buzzing with excitement at their impending world tour.

No, not your typical Saturday morning at Heathrow Terminal 5, but outside The Empire Room at the Landmark London Hotel, where wine lovers attending the 26th Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) were awaiting entry to the exclusive Cellar Collection 2023.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the top-scoring wine from each producer’s mini-vertical

Back by popular demand, following its hugely successful launch in 2022, this year’s Cellar Collection offered DFWE guests the chance to experience a deep dive into vertical tastings from 20 hand-picked estates. Each winery poured three back vintages of its flagship cuvée, including one library vintage of about 10 years of age – or in many cases older – to demonstrate the evolution of the wine.

Tickets to the Cellar Collection 2023, which held one three-hour session in the morning and then another in the afternoon, were strictly limited and available to purchase in addition to the Grand Tasting tickets. And as with last year, the calibre of producers ensured both sessions sold out.

Each guest received a Cellar Collection passport, gaining a stamp at each table visited on their world tour – a memento of meeting the people behind these famous estates and having them introduce three different vintages of an iconic wine in person.

Cellar Collection 2023: A world wine tour

When the doors opened, the crowds raced to Italy’s Ferrari for its Trentodoc sparkling and to Champagne house Duval Leroy, which showcased a 1996 Femme de Champagne – the joint oldest wine in the room.

White wine lovers enjoyed a rare Rhône treat of M Chapoutier’s Le Méal Blanc Hermitage plus Saint Clair Family Estate’s Omaka Reserve Chardonnay from Marlborough in New Zealand.

For reds, guests were spoiled for choice, starting with Louis Jadot’s Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, crus classés Bordeaux from Châteaux Beychevelle, Léoville Las Cases and Brane Cantenac as well as Napa Cabernet from Trefethen Family Vineyards.

Italy had strong representation from Allegrini’s La Poja, Produttori del Barbaresco’s Pajè Riserva, Fontodi’s Flaccianello della Pieve and Donnafugata’s Mille e Una Notte, while Rioja’s Remírez de Ganuza flew the flag for Spain, a highlight being its 1996 Reserva.

From South America it was Chile’s Seña alongside Argentina’s Catena Zapata and Achaval Ferrer, while St Andrea showcased its Merengõ Egri Bikaver Superior from Hungary.

To finish on a sweet note, our Cellar Collection visitors clamoured to taste the three vintages of Sauternes at Château Suduiraut and Florio Marsalas from Sicily, dating back to 2001.

Passports stamped and memories made, our intrepid travellers disembarked from the Cellar Collection and continued their world wine adventures in the Grand Tasting, with occasional stop offs to Masterclasses and Discovery Theatres.

If you already have wine wanderlust and can’t wait for next November’s DFWE, we will host an Italy-themed tasting experience at The Landmark London in February. Or, for those based in the US, join us at our third DFWE in New York in June. Sign up to ticket alerts here. Until then, look out for photo highlights from this year’s DFWE as you may be featured.

Cellar Collection 2023 highlights: top-scorers from each producer

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Boasting an exquisite selection from 20 distinguished wineries, the VIP Cellar Collection room provides an exclusive opportunity to explore hidden gems, rarely accessible to the general public. These carefully curated offerings include three distinct vintages of each of the wineries flagship cuvée, including a remarkable library vintage of around 10 years of age, giving you the opportunity to taste the evolution of each wine over time.

All attendees who managed to secure one of the two slots will receive a Cellar Collection Passport on the day. This passport is your ticket to a thrilling journey of discovery, where each table visited earns you an exclusive stamp for each wine tasted.

Experience top scoring wines including Fontodi, Flaccianello della Pieve, Tuscany 2006 (98 points) and M. Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc and Hermitage, Rhône 2020 (96 points). Riojas from famous producer Remírez de Ganuza, who has a reputation for long-lived wines. The older vintages such as the 1996, which attendees will have the chance to taste, continue to mature gracefully developing tertiary characteristics while retaining their youthful vibrancy. Champagne lovers can explore 2022 DWWA Gold winner Duval-Leroy, Femme de Champagne, Grand Cru Brut, Champagne NV along with vintages from 1996 and 2002. Once guests have toured through some of the worlds most respected wine labels, they can conclude their tasting experience with exquisite Sauternes from the esteemed Bordeaux estate Château Suduiraut.

The Cellar Collection room stands as the pinnacle of DFWE London, tailored expressly for the most discerning of connoisseurs. It promises an unparalleled journey through exceptional vintages and a chance to witness the evolution of these remarkable wines. Seize this opportunity to partake in an experience that is bound to leave a lasting impression on any wine enthusiast’s palate.

View the Cellar collection Exhibitors

See tasting notes and scores for some of the Cellar Collection Wines below

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Gaia credits New York and American wine writer Burton Anderson with pushing fine Italian wine to the forefront of the world’s awareness. The waves of Italian immigrants to the United States wanted a taste of their homeland that was not present in the bulk wines from Italy that dominated the market for much of the 1970s and 80s. Gaja has been importing its wines to the US for 45 years.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 10 wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York

Anderson’s 1980 book Vino: The Wines and Winemakers of Italy spotlighted the country’s fine wine producers. It was a catalyst for New York-based importers, restaurants and sommeliers seeking to learn more about the country’s top producers.

A family steeped in history

The Gaja family started making wines in 1859. Giovanni Gaja owned a tavern and started making wine to serve there. The quality of the wines raised the tavern’s popularity, and soon Giovanni decided to make wine his focus, eventually closing to focus on wines in 1902.

As pioneers for both the Barbaresco region and the country of Italy, they have led the way in terms of quality and conceptualising wines of place for 164 years.

In 1905, second-generation winemaker Angelo Gaja marked his business cards as a ‘producer of wines of luxury,’ a concept that would not have existed in the pastoral setting of the village and hills of Barbaresco. It announced the ambition he had for the wines of the Gaja family.

By 1937, Gaia’s grandfather and third-generation, Giovanni Gaja had begun producing Barbaresco of different quality classifications. This included Barbaresco normale, Barbaresco classico, Barbaresco fino and Barbaresco superiore, introducing an entirely new concept to wines of the region.

Additionally, Giovanni became known for not producing wine in bad vintages — a commitment to quality unheard of at the time.

Her father, Angelo, whom Gaia described as ‘rebellious’, would continue this tradition of innovation, becoming the first to make single-vineyard wines in Barbaresco and highlighting the family’s commitment to quality and the terroir of their estate vineyards. Angelo’s rebellious streak would see him plant Bordeaux varieties in Barbaresco, another first.

Gaia and her two siblings are all involved in the current iteration of Gaja. Rather than focus on one area of the business, they share responsibility equally across the brand, involving themselves in viticultural decisions, winemaking and marketing, and working collaboratively with their father, Angelo, spurred on by his spirit of innovation.

Gaja masterclass: The wines

The wines Gaia poured for the masterclass told a story of the Gaja estate vineyards, Italy’s ability to craft wines of the highest quality, and her father Angelo’s tendency to buck conventional ways of doing things.

Gaja, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2020

Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda, Bolgheri, Tuscany 2020

Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2018

Gaja, Costa Russi, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sorì Tildìn, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, Piedmont 1991

Gaja, Darmagi, Langhe, Piedmont 1982

Gaja, Gaia & Rey, Langhe, Piedmont 2002

Gaja, Alteni di Brassica, Langhe, Piedmont 1992

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines featured in this masterclass

Illustrations of tradition and innovation

We certainly saw examples of what Gaja is best known for in this selection. The flagship Barbaresco shows stylistic shifts, and the notion of needing to wait 10 years to approach the wines is a thing of the past. A juiciness belies Nebbiolo’s reputation as an austere, tannic wine unapproachable for years.

The two Tuscan wines demonstrated that Gaja is not only good at making timeless wines from Piedmont; there were some genuine surprises with the older vintages. Ca’Marcanda is an homage to the boulevard of Bolgheri, lined with 2,600 cypress trees planted over 150 years ago. The Brunello, Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, has vineyards planted near the church it takes its name from, including a former cemetery from 1,400 years ago – as Gaia pointed out playfully, it’s not simply limestone that makes up the terroir here.

A trio of single-vineyard Barbaresco from the classic 2016 vintage showed the true heights that Gaja can reach in their historic appellation; a contrast in soils, aspect and temperature across their three most famous cru bottlings.

Sperss has become an iconic Barolo for Gaja. Angelo purchased the vineyard in 1988, an already well-known and historic vineyard in Serralunga. This example shows that even in the difficult-at-best 1991 vintage in Piedmont, the terroir and winemaking have created a wine that shines beautifully.

Darmagi shows the renowned rebellious nature of her father Angelo, who planted Cabernet Sauvignon below the house of the mayor of the village of Barbaresco – his father, Giovanni. The name Darmagi captured Giovanni’s reaction to the planting of Bordeaux varieties in his home region and translates to ‘what a shame.’

The 2002 Gaia & Rey may have been the surprise of the day. Planted in 1979, Angelo’s motivation was to show that great white wine could come from Piedmont. He then followed that with Sauvignon Blanc, for Alteni di Brassica. As climate change has impacted Piedmont, Gaja has looked to the Alta Langhe, planting Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc there as the original plantings have struggled in the face of rising temperatures.

The Gaja family has also begun an operation on Mount Etna, Sicily, in the last few years, working with Alberto Graci on their collaborative IDDA wines. Another demonstration that this family steeped in Piedmont tradition is always looking ahead.

Wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York:

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The final finishing touches are being added, the wine glasses have been polished and the spittoons are at the ready, as we prepare for the return of the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC (DFWE). In just two weeks 50 of the world’s renowned wine producers will be under one roof on the 60th floor at the Manhatta restaurant in Manhattan on 10 June, to showcase their most special wines.

The DFWE NYC is set to be an unforgettable experience and we are excited to have some of the wine world’s highly respected influencers joining us in New York; you will have a chance to meet them too! Ahead of the event they give us insight on which wines are exciting their taste buds, and which ones to look out for.

Roberto Rivera @roberto.uncorks

Roberto Rivera is a New Jersey-based wine professional born and raised in Lima, Peru. After gaining a profound admiration for how wine elevates the enjoyment of meals, Rivera became eager to spread his delight and found a way to merge his passion for wine with his profession as a blogger and content creator. Social media has allowed him to connect with other wine enthusiasts around the world and share his expertise and experiences. One core message that he hopes his content conveys is that wine is truly accessible to all, regardless of one’s background or origin. Roberto is a team member of Hispanics in Wine, an organisation dedicated to promoting diversity and inclusion in the wine industry. He has a WSET Level 3 certification and is pursuing the Diploma programme.

Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita 2019

Malbec is dear to my heart because it was the very first wine variety I tried when I began drinking wine. So as a Malbec fan, I can’t wait to taste the Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita 2019. In Argentina, Zuccardi is a name that resonates with exceptional winemaking. For over 50 years, this family-owned winery has been making wines that showcase the region’s unique terroir in Mendoza.

Finca Piedra Infinita, which translates to ‘Infinite Stone Estate’, was aged in concrete and made with grapes from a parcel of soils rich in calcium carbonate. 

Viña Santa Rita Casa Real Reserva Especial 1994

Another gem from South America you must try is Viña Santa Rita Casa Real Reserva Especial 1994. When was the last time you had the opportunity to taste a 29-year-old Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon?

Viña Santa Rita is a historic winery renowned for its winemaking heritage in the famous Chilean wine region of Maipo Valley. ‘1994 Casa Real Reserva Especial’ is the winery’s flagship wine, crafted from hand-selected grapes and aged in French oak barrels. This is a wine that every Cabernet Sauvignon fan should try.

Juvé & Camps La Capella Brut Nature Cava de Paraje Calificado 2010

If you’re a fan of sparkling wines, like me, and especially Cava, the Juvé & Camps La Capella Brut Nature Cava de Paraje Calificado 2010 is a must-try. Juvé & Camps is a prestigious winery in the Penedès region of Catalonia, Spain. Founded in 1921 by Joan Juvé Baqués and his wife, Teresa Camps Ferrer, the winery is known for producing high-quality Cava. La Capella 2010 is the fourth vintage of this Cava, which has hit the market. Delicate and elegant, it is also the second vintage to go on the market with Cava de Paraje Calificado certification, the top-ranking level for the Cava sector.

Rupal Shankar @syrah_queen

Rupal Shankar is a Wall Street professional, wine enthusiast and wine writer. Holding notable credentials such as the WSET Level 3 and French Wine Scholar certifications, she is currently enrolled in the WSET Diploma programme and is pursuing her master’s certification in Champagne. Shankar takes pleasure in sharing her experiences with wine, food and travel, further demonstrating her expertise through her highly regarded digital wine magazine, Syrah Queen. Her captivating content and contributions to the wine industry have earned her a dedicated following on Instagram and have also led her to write for publications such as Sante Magazine and News Break.

Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siècle Itération N°23, Champagne (magnum)

As with any special occasion, I will be starting off the DFWE with bubbles. I am looking forward to tasting Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle Champagne – being poured from a Magnum; Maison Laurent Perrier’s motto for the cuvée Grand Siècle is ‘blending the best with the best to obtain the very best’. Laurent-Perrier Champagnes are always fresh, elegant and pure. The bottle is worth checking out. With a curved shape and a slender neck, it pays homage to the craftsmanship of the master glassmakers from the 17th century. This bubbly is a prestige cuvée with history and vision, a great Champagne to kick off the tasting experience.

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja, Spain 2011

Having visited this stunning property in the famed Rioja region, I am really excited to try the Ygay Gran Reserva from Marqués de Murrieta. Ygay Gran Reserva 2011 is considered to be one of the great wines of the world. The wine symbolises quality, excellence, and elegance, as it is only produced in the finest vintages. Castillo Ygay Gran Reservas are exquisitely handmade, world-class wines from the oldest family-owned estate in Rioja. Grab your chance to taste wines from this exciting producer.

Vasse Felix, Tom Cullity, Margaret River, Australia 2017 (magnum)

Vasse Felix was established in 1967 by Dr Thomas Cullity and is Margaret River’s founding wine estate. I met the winemaker (Virginia Willcock) of Vasse Felix several times over the years in NYC, and she is a rock star. Virginia is one of the most awarded female winemakers in Australia. The Vasse Felix, Tom Cullity, Margaret River is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The wines are always intense, with great focus and concentration. This is your opportunity to discover the incredible wines of Vasse Felix and the wine paradise of Margaret River.

‘I am thrilled to be attending the event in June at Manhatta, 60 floors above NYC, where we will be able to experience great wines with great views. The masterclasses are fabulous and are a deep dive into the individual producers for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. There are 50 phenomenal producers at the event, and I can’t wait to taste them all during the grand tasting.’ Rupal Shankar

Nicole Muscari @grapechic

French Wine Scholar Nicole Muscari embarked on a journey to make wine more accessible and enjoyable for everyone by launching her blog and social media platform, Grape Chic. Through this platform, she aims to share captivating stories with the world, inviting readers and followers to embrace the world of wine with a sense of approachability and fun. Muscari is currently pursuing the WSET Diploma and has also contributed to publications like The Vintner Project and Honest Cooking Magazine, further establishing herself as a respected voice in the wine industry.

Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siècle Itération N°23, Champagne (magnum)

58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir from 2006, 2004, and 2002 aged 14 years on the lees – in magnum – what else is there to say? The fruit for this wine comes from 11 Grand Cru sites and provides the perfect blend of depth, complexity and elegance. With a base of mostly 2006 (65%), I expect this wine to be rich in texture with multiple layers that will reveal themselves slowly over time. A great way to set the tone!

Fèlsina, Fontalloro, Tuscany, Italy 2013

Sangiovese sits in my top three favourite red grape varieties, and Fèlsina always captures the purity of this variety so brilliantly. Grapes for Fontalloro come from vineyards that straddle both Chianti Classico and the Chianti Colli Senesi denomination. An array of different soils, altitudes, and exposures between the two sides make for a balanced, layered and complex wine. I expect this wine to show rich dark fruits and truffles with a lift of freshness brought on by the 2013 vintage.

Taylor Fladgate, Classic Vintage Port, Douro Valley, Portugal 2003

This 2003 Vintage Port comes from three ‘Grade A’ vineyards owned by Taylor Fladgate in the Douro Valley. Vintage Ports are only made in exceptional years, and not only do producers need to register their intent to produce a Vintage Port in the second year after harvest, but the young wine must also be approved by an IVDP tasting panel. Made with 100% foot-trodden grapes for delicate yet optimal extraction, this wine aged for two years in oak barrels and 20 years in bottle at the winery! My love and frequent visits to Portugal have me incredibly excited about this wine. It’s also sentimental for me, as 2003 was the year I graduated from high school.

Browse the Special Wines 

Download the Grand Tasting catalogue here to study the line-up of producers and the wines they will be bringing.

Watch: What to expect at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2023 video

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday 10 June 2023 from 11am to 5pm.

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor,

New York, NY 10005 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

*Tickets for the Gaja Masterclass have now sold out!

A Grand Tasting ticket also includes access to the Decanter World Wine Awards winners’ bar, where you can taste Gold, Platinum and Best in Show wines from 2022.

 Last remaining tickets

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The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC Louis Roederer Masterclass will showcase some of Lécaillon’s most recent cuvées, including the stunning and storied 2002 and 2008 Cristal and the 2012 Cristal Rosé, Collection 243, Roederer’s new multi-vintage cuvée, and other selections from the house. These wines are the best of the best from the Lécaillon, Roederer era.

Lécaillon has had an illustrious career, having worked for Roederer since 1989, becoming Champagne’s youngest chef de cave. Still, he has also spent time at some of Roederer’s other owned properties in Tasmania and in Anderson Valley, California, at Roederer Estate. His working wine travels proved fruitful, as they helped inform how he operates the house of Champagne Louis Roederer.

One of the hallmarks of Lécaillon’s tenure has been the emphasis on biodynamic and organic farming practices and the overall health of the vineyard those practices impart. Many of Roederer’s vineyard holdings are farmed this way, which is quite a departure for a large Champagne house. It is now the largest biodynamic producer of all the grandes marques.

Lécaillon was a staunch advocate for the viticultural side of things, desiring to oversee the activities in the winery and the vineyard to ensure a holistic approach. Upper management quickly agreed, especially since Lécaillon’s university degree from École Nationale Supérieure d’Agronomie in Montpellier, France was in viticulture and oenology.

What’s your favourite thing about New York, and why do you think it’s a great wine town?

The overflowing energy in New York is palpable in any activity, and wine is no exception. Like a performing artist, an ambitious wine producer needs the recognition of the community and must ‘make it there, to make it everywhere’. New York will always be New York, unique and exciting. It’s a joy to be here and share the wines of Louis Roederer with passionate wine lovers.

What excites you about Champagne?

It’s both our ability and obligation as producers to invent tomorrow’s Champagne; today.

How did you start at Roederer and in the world of Champagne?

Organically! I was born in Reims and, later in my education, went to study at the University of Montpellier. I graduated in viticulture and winemaking and was the valedictorian of my class. In 1989, I applied with Louis Roederer and received an offer from then CEO Jean-Claude Rouzaud, which I gladly accepted.

What does Roederer do to stand out from other grandes marques?

We want to consider ourselves the best of both worlds: passionate growers and forward-looking winemakers. The world has never been so passionate about sparkling wine, particularly Champagne.

What is Roederer doing to deal with an ever-changing climate?

We are returning to our roots as a passionate stewards of our land while relentlessly reinventing viticulture and winemaking. Roederer is a pioneer of organic viticulture in Champagne and a constant researcher of cutting-edge winemaking.

What does the future of Champagne look like to you?

The future looks bright. The Champagne region is one of the beneficiaries of climate change. We have better and more constant maturity in the grapes over the years, allowing higher quality still wine before blending. From a worldwide market standpoint, Champagne is no longer simply a wine of celebration but has acquired a new status as a (grand) vin for any occasion and every day.

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday 10 June 2023 from 11am to 5pm.

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor,

New York, NY 10005 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (Save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

 Last remaining tickets

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There is just under two months to go until the stunning Manhatta restaurant opens its doors for the second time to welcome you to the highly anticipated Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC this June. Not only will there be a sensational line-up of masterclasses held throughout the day, but guests can also enjoy a walk-around the Grand Tasting, which offers a rare opportunity to taste fine wines and meet the people behind the bottles.

The Grand Tasting is at the heart of DFWE and will showcase wines from 50 truly world-class producers from all over the globe. We are so pleased that many of the producers from our 2022 event will be returning this year, and we are equally excited to welcome 32 producers who will be joining us for the first time. This unrivalled wine-tasting experience will represent fine wines from the old world and the new world, with each producer presenting four wines from their collection.

Click here to view the 2023 Exhibitors

As a bonus, they will also each bring an exceptional wine from their cellar, ranging from old vintages, top cuvée, and standard-sized bottles to magnums. These special wines are unique to their collection and you will have the chance to taste, explore, discover or reconnect with vintages and interact with the wineries that made them. It will be a truly unforgettable experience for wine lovers all over.

With the announcement of the Special Wines line-up, you can take a look at the wines the Decanter Team is excited about and which ones stand out for them:

Clive – Pursehouse Decanter US Editor

Stony Hill, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California, USA 2010

An opportunity to taste a 13-year-old Napa Chardonnay from an iconic producer like Stony Hill is one of the unique treats of attending DFWE and not to be missed.

Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2009

The 2009 vintage is regarded as the stuff of legend from Bordeaux and of course the wines of Clerc Milon are always top examples.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Hungary 2013

A 10-year old Tokaji is the ultimate experience in opulence and Disznóko is a legendary producer.

Vérité, La Joie, Sonoma County, California, USA 2011

The Vérité project is an exciting one combining the best of Bordeaux and Sonoma and so to taste a 12 year old example of this wine is a special treat.

Château Suduiraut, Sauternes 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2010

Sauternes is having a moment, and I’ve been tasting younger Sauternes of late, and so to taste one 13 years in, a sort of youthfeel mid-point, and particularly one from Château Suduiraut feels like a great way to cap off the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter

Tina Gellie – Content Manager & Regional Editor (Canada, Australia, NZ, South Africa)

Vasse Felix, Tom Cullity, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Following my first trip to Margaret River in late 2022, it was wonderful to finally visit the place where, in 1967, Dr Tom Cullity planted the region’s first commercial vines. Vasse Felix’s top red is named in honour of the winery’s founder and is a blend of old-vine Cabernet and Malbec (from cuttings of the original vines) along with a dash of Petit Verdot. It’s always a powerful, ageworthy and inky-mineral wine, with fine chocolatey tannins and a lovely minty streak.

Yalumba, The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, South Australia 2018

Taking Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra and Shiraz from the Barossa, this is a quintessential Australian blend – but here intentionally made to be an icon wine, so amped up to the max in concentration (and price). It’s only released with five years of bottle age, so attendees at Decanter’s New York Fine Wine Encounter will be among the first to try it. I’ll be tasting it myself just a few days before the event, and am expecting to be very impressed.

Craggy Range, Sophia, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2020

I’m excited to taste this new vintage, a Merlot-dominant blend with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, from winemaker Julian Grounds. It’s one of the winery’s flagships, and this will be the 19th year since it was first made from Hawke’s Bay’s famed Gimblett Gravels, a terroir similar to the Médoc in Bordeaux and the Rhône’s Hermitage. Apparently it’s named after the Greek goddess of knowledge, but other sources say it’s actress Sophia Loren…

Ken Forrester, Dirty Little Secret Three, Piekenierskloof, South Africa NV

Any Chenin Blanc made by Mr Chenin himself is going to be great, but this cuvée is unique, and one which I tasted recently when Ken was in London. Instead of showing the character of an individual vintage, It’s a blend of vintages (DLS Three is 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020) to highlight the terroir of the dry-farmed 1965-planted bushvine vineyard in Piekenierskloof. Layered, complex and mineral, It has a textured palate, honeyed orchard fruit and citrus zing.

Amy Wislocki – Magazine Editor

Santa Rita, Casa Real Reserva Especial, Alto Jahuel, Maipo Valley, Chile 1994:

This is the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon from historic Maipo producer Santa Rita. Maipo Cabernet is a New World Classic, and this one will be even more fascinating to taste given the almost 30 years of bottle age. What’s more, I have a soft spot for this wine, whose front label shows the beautiful Casa Real Hacienda, now a luxury hotel – I stayed here during a visit to Chile some 20 years ago, and remember taking a walk through the gardens down to the lake one evening at sunset. One of those experiences that you never forget.

Nino Franco, Primo Franco Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2018:

Prosecco gets such a bad rap. But if you want to explore the higher quality and more complex side to the region, Nino Franco is a great place to start. The estate owns some of the best vineyard sites and has been making Prosecco for more than a century – so they know what they’re doing. I’ve met current owner Primo Franco a few times and he is uncompromising in his quest for quality. 

Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Calderara Sottana Rosso, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2015:

When people ask me what my favourite red wine style is, I can never narrow it down to just one, but Nerello Mascalese from Etna will always be in my top handful. The reason I love good Etna reds so much is that they sing of their volcanic origins. The grape is often compared to Pinot Noir, and this red from excellent producer Terre Nere is a benchmark expression. Now all I need to do is get to the estate in person…

Hartford Court, Fog Dance Vineyard Chardonnay, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2017:

I’m unfamiliar with this estate, but I love a Californian Chardonnay, and there are some clues here that this wine is likely to display delicious cool-climate complexity, from the name of the vineyard to the Russian River Valley origins. It’s also got some evolution, so all in all sounds right up my street.

Julie Sheppard – Regional Editor (Spain, Portugal, South America) & Spirits editor

Remírez de Ganuza Reserva, Rioja, Spain 1996 

Based in Rioja Alavesa, Remírez de Ganuza is one of my favourite Rioja producers, making expressive wines that showcase impeccable attention to detail. Its older vintages, such as this 1996, evolve beautifully over time, developing intriguing tertiary characteristics, while retaining freshness. An object lesson in why Rioja deserves its reputation for long-lived fine wines – don’t miss this chance to taste it! 

Zuccardi, Finca Piedra Infinita, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2019

The affable Sebastián Zuccardi is a gifted winemaker and this top Argentinian Malbec is part of his exceptional Fincas range, which highlights unique terroirs in the high-altitude Uco Valley. The 42ha Piedra Infinita vineyard sits in the alluvial plain of the Tunuyán River at 1,100m above sea level. Site expression shines through on this award-winning wine: pure, complex and nuanced, it demonstrates what can be achieved with Malbec in Argentina. 

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja, Spain 2011 

This stunning – and rare – wine from one of Rioja’s leading producers, is made from carefully selected plots in a single vineyard. Like all the Murrieta wines, it has a long life ahead of it, but it’s drinking beautifully now: complex aromatics lead to a rich and rounded palate, with a silky intensity that will take your breath away. A true icon wine. 

Taylor Fladgate, Classic Vintage Port, Douro Valley, Portugal 2003

At a recent Decanter Panel Tasting of vintage Ports, Demetri Walters MW described the 2003 vintage as ‘bold, vivid and full of personality’ – and I’d certainly agree. Built to last, but delivering plenty of drinking pleasure now, this vintage offering from Taylor’s is a melange of berry fruit, sweet spice, leather, chocolate and coffee. A real treat for fans of fortified wines. 

Browse the Special Wines line-up

*Download the Grand Tasting catalogue here to study the line-up of producers and the wines they will be bringing.

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday 10 June 2023 from 11am to 5pm.

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor,

New York, NY 10005 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (Save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

A Grand Tasting ticket also includes access to the Decanter World Wine Awards winners’ bar, where you can taste Gold, Platinum and Best in Show wines from 2022.

 Buy tickets today

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Calling all Champagne lovers!

Renowned for producing some of the world’s finest Champagnes, Louis Roederer is coming to New York to host a masterclass at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC on Saturday 10 June 2023. 

In this not-to-be missed, highly anticipated masterclass led by executive vice president and chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, guests will taste through four vintages of Cristal, Roederer’s famed prestige cuvée dating back to 2002, including the rare Cristal Rosé. Also on show will be relative newcomer Collection 243, Roederer’s multi-vintage Champagne par excellence, which was created in response to the region’s increasingly warm climate.

With a long history of careful stewardship spanning over two and a half centuries, the Reims-based producer has had ample time to adapt its winemaking practices, continually fine-tuning it according to the rhythms of nature. The grapes are handpicked and carefully selected from their extensive vineyard holdings – 240ha, in 410 separate parcels, located in three classic Champagne districts: the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne, and the Côte des Blancs. Sourcing grapes from its own vineyards rather than from other grape growers, makes this Champagne house stand out. 

The independent, family-owned Champagne house is currently managed by Frédéric Rouzaud, the seventh generation of the lineage, who continues the legacy of producing detail-focused, high-quality wines from vineyard to palate; a real treat for the Champagne lover’s taste buds! 

Champagnes on the day:

Collection 243, Champagne, France NV

Champagne, France 2015

Rosé, Champagne, France 2016

Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France 2015

Cristal, Champagne, France 2014

Cristal, Champagne, France 2008

Cristal, Champagne, France 2002

Cristal Rosé, Champagne, France 2012

Tickets for the Man and Nature: The Evolution of Champagne Louis Roederer cost $295 a piece (+ sales tax). Masterclasses are also available for Château Léoville Las Cases, Gaja and Harlan Estate.

About Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC is a prestigious one day wine tasting event held at the Manhatta restaurant in Manhattan on Saturday 10 June. Meet some of the world’s most famous wine producers and taste their top vintages during an unrivalled Grand Tasting and learn from an exceptional line-up of 75-minute masterclasses, held throughout the day. Please note: masterclass tickets are sold separately and not included as part of the Grand Tasting ticket.

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday 10 June 2023 from 11am to 5pm.

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor,

New York, NY 10005 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (Save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

 Buy tickets today

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World-class pioneers of the winemaking industry Gaja, will be joining us in New York for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter as part of our masterclass series, which will be taking place on Saturday 10 June 2023. 

The Piedmont-based family-owned estate, established in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja, is now run by Gaia Gaja, daughter of the legendary Angelo Gaja. Gaia is the fifth generation to take the winery’s helm and we are thrilled to have her leading this masterclass, to exhibit some of the highly sought after labels from the Gaja collection.

Gaja’s Philosophy:

To create authentic, terroir-expressive wines, each imbued with the tradition and culture of its region.

During this masterclass Gaia will bring this philosophy to life, showcasing eight wines that illustrate the estate’s breadth of terroirs. Among them will be four iconic Barbaresco bottlings – the flagship Barbaresco and three single-site bottlings (for which Gaja is famed): Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn and Costa Russi. The three single-site wines are all from the 2016 vintage, giving tasters the opportunity to compare these rare and distinctive wines side by side.

Tasters will also have the chance to taste two other Piedmontese wines from the Gaja family – Sperss, an outstanding Barolo, and the Cabernet Sauvignon-based Darmagi.

Gaja are renowned for revolutionising the way they produce their wines, for being able to do so without compromising on tradition, and for consistently producing wines of enviable quality. The Gaja dynasty has been credited with burnishing the region’s winemaking reputation, elevating Barbaresco to the status of a fine wine and confirming to any doubters the status of the Nebbiolo as a noble variety.

Wines you will be tasting:

Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 2020

Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy 2020

Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 2018

Costa Russi, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 2016

Sorì Tildìn, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 2016

Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy 2016

Sperss, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 1991

Darmagi, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 1982

Gaia & Rey, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 2002

Alteni di Brassica, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 1992

Tickets for the Five Generations of GAJA cost $295 a piece (+ sales tax) and are selling fast. Masterclasses are also available for Harlan Estate, Château Léoville Las Cases and Louis Roederer so we recommend booking today to avoid disappointment.

Grand Tasting

As well as attending masterclasses, guests can purchase tickets for the walk-around grand tasting, trying highly acclaimed vintages and mingle with top wine producers from all over the world whilst enjoying panoramic views of New York. With over 200 wines to be presented, the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC is set to be a truly unforgettable day of fine wine tasting.

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday 10 June 2023 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (Save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

 Buy tickets today

Related articles

• Decanter returns to New York for its world-renowned Fine Wine Encounter in June 2023
• Join Decanter’s Château Léoville Las Cases Masterclass in New York
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It was always going to be a special Decanter Fine Wine Encounter. On Saturday 5 November, readers descended on The Landmark, London for the first time since 2019 to taste a selection of the world’s fine wines, poured by the producers.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a selection of highlights from the Cellar Collection room

Not only was it the first in-person Decanter tasting in London since before Covid, it was also the 25th anniversary of the event, which has been bringing fine wine lovers and some of the world’s top estates together since 1998. 

And new for 2022, ticket holders to the Grand Tasting were given the opportunity to experience a deep dive into vertical tastings from 21 hand-picked estates, in the Cellar Collection room. Each winery present poured three back vintages of their flagship cuvée, including one library vintage of around 10 years of age, to demonstrate the evolution of the wine.

Not only was it a rare opportunity to taste library vintages of some of the world’s finest wines, it was also a chance to meet the people behind these bottles, and have them introduce their own wines in person.

See tasting notes and scores for all the wines in the Cellar Collection Room

Wine world tour

Each guest was issued with a Cellar Collection passport, gaining a stamp at each table visited. And it really was a world tour – without the queues for passport control! Lovers of bubbles could start off with a visit to Tasmania’s House of Arras – the 2007 Vintage Rosé a highlight – followed by two of Cava’s most elite names, Llopart and Recaredo. Two dry white wines were on show, Planeta’s famous Sicilian Chardonnay, and Château Olivier’s white Graves, displaying delicious evolution in the 2010 vintage poured from magnum.

Red wines were unsurprisingly the main focus, with fine Rioja from Marqués de Murrieta and Bodegas Roda, and a selection of top Bordeaux names, including representation from Margaux (Siran) and Pauillac (Lynch-Bages). Over in Italy, Tedeschi was pouring its Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva Amarone back to 2005, while Tuscan estates Tua Rita, Tenuta Luce and Lamole di Lamole also fielded their top cuvées. Argentina’s Catena Zapata shared its Nicolás Catena cuvée going back to 2004, while California estate Arkenstone wowed with its 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s Howell Mountain. 

Sweet wines from Château Bastor-Lamontagne in Sauternes and Disznókö in Tokaj, and colheita white Ports from historic Port house Kopke provided the perfect conclusion to a very special tasting.

Cellar Collection Room wines

Arkenstone, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA 2018

Arkenstone, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA 2013

Arkenstone, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA 2010

Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina 2019

Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina 2010

Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina 2004

Château Bastor-Lamontagne, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France 2019

Château Bastor-Lamontagne Sauternes, Bordeaux, France 2010

Château Bastor-Lamontagne Sauternes, Bordeaux, France 2006

Château de Corneilla, Cavalcade Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon, France 2019

Château de Corneilla, Cavalcade Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon, France 2017

Château de Corneilla, Cavalcade Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon, France 2010

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2018

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2015

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2010

Château Olivier Blanc, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2018

Château Olivier Blanc, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2015

Château Olivier Blanc, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2010

Château Patache d’Aux, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France 2018

Château Patache d’Aux, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France 2016

Château Patache d’Aux, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France 2010

Château Siran, Margaux, Bordeaux, France 2018

Château Siran, Margaux, Bordeaux, France 2015

Château Siran, Margaux, Bordeaux, France 2010

Disznókó, Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji, Hungary 2013

Disznókó, Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji, Hungary 2007

Disznókó, Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji, Hungary 2002

Domaine de Baronarques, Grand Vin Rouge, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2018

Domaine de Baronarques, Grand Vin Rouge, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2015

Domaine de Baronarques, Grand Vin Rouge, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2007

House of Arras, Rosé, Tasmania, Australia 2014

House of Arras, Rosé, Tasmania, Australia 2007

House of Arras, Rosé, Tasmania, Australia 2005

Kopke, Colheita White Port, Douro Valley, Portugal 2008

Kopke, Colheita White Port, Douro Valley, Portugal 2005

Kopke, Colheita White Port, Douro Valley, Portugal 2003

Lamole di Lamole, Vigneto di Campolungo, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Tuscany, Italy 2017

Lamole di Lamole, Vigneto di Campolungo, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Tuscany, Italy 2015

Lamole di Lamole, Vigneto di Campolungo, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Tuscany, Italy 2009

Llopart, Original 1887 Les Flandes Single Vineyard, Corpinnat, Catalonia, Spain 2010

Llopart, Original 1887 Les Flandes Single Vineyard, Corpinnat, Catalonia, Spain 2009

Llopart, Original 1887 Les Flandes Single Vineyard, Corpinnat, Catalonia, Spain 2008

Luce, Tuscany, Italy 2017

Luce, Tuscany, Italy 2012

Luce, Tuscany, Italy 2007

Marques de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Especial Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta, Spain 2011

Marques de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Especial Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta, Spain 2010

Marques de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay Especial Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta, Spain 2009

Planeta, Chardonnay, Menfi, Sicily, Italy 2021

Planeta, Chardonnay, Menfi, Sicily, Italy 2018

Planeta, Chardonnay, Menfi, Sicily, Italy 2011

Recaredo, Serral del Vell, Corpinnat, Catalonia, Spain 2017

Recaredo, Serral del Vell, Corpinnat, Catalonia, Spain 2014

Recaredo, Serral del Vell, Corpinnat, Catalonia, Spain 2011

Roda, Roda I Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2017

Roda, Roda I Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005

Roda, Roda I Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2004

Tedeschi, Capitel Monte Olmi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, Veneto, Italy 2016

Tedeschi, Capitel Monte Olmi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, Veneto, Italy 2011

Tedeschi, Capitel Monte Olmi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, Veneto, Italy 2005

Tua Rita, Redigaffi, Tuscany, Italy 2020

Tua Rita, Redigaffi, Tuscany, Italy 2016

Tua Rita, Redigaffi, Tuscany, Italy 2012

Book here for future Decanter events

Cellar collection highlights: top-scoring wine from each producer

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Few vintage release campaigns can rival the focus given to Bordeaux en primeur in the fine wine calendar, even if there is ongoing debate about its changing nature.

For buyers, it can be a good opportunity to secure wines direct from the estate, and in specific bottle formats.

En primeur can also still offer the best price for a particular wine, yet – as has been widely reported elsewhere – prices vary and some top-rated wines can be available in-bottle around 18 months later without having risen in price since release.

Each campaign has its own context, but several merchants in the UK and US have told Decanter in recent years that en primeur tends to work for a smaller pool of top wines than in the past.

Below, we take a look at the Bordeaux 2020 campaign and some of the key trends.

Premium App members: you can also download and read the latest Collector’s Guide via the Decanter Premium app now. Available via the App Store or Google Play.

Setting the scene: A Fine wine market snapshot in 2021

Buyer demand on the fine wine market has been relatively solid the past year or so, according to several merchants and analysts, despite ongoing disruption to the hospitality industry and wider economic uncertainty related to Covid-19.

Miles Davis, head of professional portfolio management at Wine Owners, said in his July report, ‘[The market] is calm, well underpinned by global demand – and a good place to be.’

Italy, Champagne and California have been dominating headlines, but a key trend in the past 12 months has been a quiet resurgence for blue-chip Bordeaux.

As the Bordeaux 2020 campaign kicked off, UK-based merchant Bordeaux Index said it had seen Bordeaux prices up 5-6% on average, with younger vintages of the first growths rising closer to 10%.

Clyde Beffa Jr, co-owner of US-based K&L Wine Merchants, said in August, ‘Bordeaux wines are hot right now and the prices are going up and up.’

A good number of Bordeaux 2019 wines have become more expensive since release last year, although not everything has gone up. To briefly recap, vintage quality was generally strong and many wines were released at significant discounts to 2018 in a delayed campaign overshadowed by Covid-19.

More generally in 2021, some observers have noted renewed demand among Asia-based buyers. The market has also been boosted by a long-term pause on US import tariffs related to the Airbus dispute with the EU. Additional 25% tariffs imposed in October 2019 had affected supply of Bordeaux wines to the US.

In some ways, then, Bordeaux 2020 en primeur wines entered a more stable market.

However, annual tasting sessions were again cancelled due to Covid-19, albeit with samples shipped to other parts of the world. Disruption has continued to hit the hospitality industry, and there is ongoing uncertainty surrounding the future economic impact of the pandemic.

Bordeaux 2020 quality: Third in a trilogy?

After tasting more than 800 wines for Decanter, Jane Anson gave Bordeaux 2020 an overall rating of four stars out of five, equal to her rating for 2018 but slightly lower than for 2019.

There were still strong peaks in 2020 on both the Right and Left Banks. Decanter’s potential 100-point wines were:

• Cheval Blanc
• Ausone
• Canon
• Margaux
• Mouton Rothschild

Anson doesn’t give 100-point scores until the wines are retasted in-bottle, around 18 months after en primeur.

You can find more in-depth analysis on the quality of Bordeaux 2020 in our full report for Decanter Premium members.

The interplay between 2020, 2019 and 2018 on the market in the coming years could be interesting for both collectors and investors to observe. There has been talk of the three vintages representing a trilogy of good years.

Bordeaux 2020 prices

Bordeaux 2020 release prices generally rose versus the discounts seen on 2019 releases.

Liv-ex said in its en primeur review release prices rose by 5% versus 2019 in the first four weeks, on an ex-Bordeaux basis (€ per bottle), and by 34% on average in the final week of the campaign.

It said release prices in the UK (pound sterling) rose by 27% on average, ‘wiping out’ 2019 discounts.

In the US, K&L’s Beffa Jr wrote in his en primeur report, ‘Most prices vs. quality levels were reasonable, but some properties really pushed the envelope.’

The table below offers some perspective by showing ex-Bordeaux release prices (€ per bottle) for the first growths in the last five vintages, as quoted by Liv-ex. Latour left the en primeur system in 2012.

Analysing the campaign

Bordeaux négociants selling classified wines said they were happy. ‘Globally we are all very satisfied because we sold a lot of wine,’ said Philippe Tapie, speaking to Decanter as head of the Grands Cru Committee of the Bordeaux Négoce union.

He praised the first growths, in particular. ‘They increased their price but at a reasonable level versus the market.’

Liv-ex said Château Margaux 2020 ‘looked very good value on release’, for example, despite a 30% rise in its ex-Bordeaux price versus 2019.

Lafite and Cheval Blanc also earned praise from international merchants for their release strategy.

Yet Liv-ex said total en primeur sales for its UK member merchants were lower than for the 2019, 2018 and 2016 vintages in value terms, albeit higher than all other en primeur campaigns since the heady days of 2009 and 2010.

It said there was clearly buyer demand for 2020 en primeur wines, but prices and ‘restrictions in stock’ held back sales, too.

:

During the campaign, Shaun Bishop, CEO at US merchant JJ Buckley, also reported good demand for Angélus and Pavie in terms of dollar sales.

Merchants on both sides of the Atlantic reported smaller release volumes. ‘As far as the quantity of the 2020s produced and released to us, we were severely allocated on some of the wines,’ said Beffa at K&L.

‘I would say on average we were offered 25% less than 2019, and 2019 was an allocated vintage for sure. In fact, we have almost no 2019 Bordeaux for sale as of this writing,’ he said.

Harvest yields in 2020 were generally lower than for 2019 or 2018, and production levels inevitably affect the amount of wine released en primeur.

Yet there have also been reports in recent years of some estates releasing a smaller proportion of their wine during the en primeur campaign.

An investment view

Matthew O’Connell, head of investment at Bordeaux Index, said a number of prices looked ‘marginal’ for investors as opposed to outright attractive.

As the campaign began, the merchant said attractive pricing – particularly for first growths, super seconds and larger-volume, top Right Bank estates – might include:

• a ‘modest’ increase on the 2019 en primeur price;
• a substantial discount (10-20%) on the 2015-vintage market price;
• a release price near to the ‘cheapest to deliver’ vintage.

On this basis, Bordeaux Index said Cheval Blanc 2020, at £4,656 per 12 bottles in bond, was a ‘clear buy’.

Looking through the back catalogue

O’Connell said the 2020-vintage en primeur campaign was more positive for 2018 wines than expected.

He also noted higher interest in Bordeaux 2016 and 2015 wines in general this year, too, adding that quality peaks in those vintages continued to look undervalued.

Wine Owners trading exchange said it saw savvy buyers hunting for 2019s during the 2020 en primeur campaign. ‘Better priced 2019s that were down on their 2018 release prices and which hadn’t budged since last year’s release price got snapped up as this year’s campaign played out,’ it said.

With Bordeaux resurgent in general, Liv-ex recently noted rising interest in 2009 and 2010 wines; a number of 2010s remain cheaper today than on release due to a market fall in mid-2011.

Bordeaux 2020: Six ‘value’ picks for the cellar

Wine lovers might choose to wait for in-bottle scores before taking the plunge, but here are six Bordeaux 2020 wines rated strongly by Decanter and released in the UK below £500 per 12-bottle case in bond.

This list is primarily collated with collectors in mind, rather than outright investment.

Château Giscours, 3rd growth, Margaux

95pts

We say: ‘This is an excellent Giscours, extremely precise, well drawn and seductive.’

Release price: €40.8 per bottle ex-Bordeaux | £492 12x75cl in bond

Château Talbot, 4th growth, St-Julien

95pts

We say: ‘This is a great Talbot, a real success for the château.’

Release price: €39.6 per bottle ex-Bordeaux | £480 12x75cl in bond

Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan

94pts

We say: ‘This is one of the successes of the appellation.’

Release price: €28.8 per bottle ex-Bordeaux | £347 12x75cl in bond

Château Batailley, 5th growth, Pauillac

94pts

We say: ‘Such a great drinking claret, really one to look out for in this vintage.’

Release price: €26.5 per bottle ex-Bordeaux | £336 12x75cl in bond

Château La Serre, St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé

94pts

We say: ‘This is so juicy, full of sleek and sexy damson fruits with a wash of freshly crushed mint leaf.’

Release price: £450 12x75cl in bond

Château Phélan Ségur, St-Estèphe

94pts

We say: ‘This is an estate that has just powered to better and better wines over the past few years.’

Release price: €30.6 per bottle ex-Bordeaux | £368 12x75cl in bond

Wider trends

Price performance: First Growth focus

As of July 2021, Liv-ex data showed prices on most first growth wines back to 2014 have increased since en primeur release, in pound sterling terms. Retail prices naturally vary but the broad trend has been growth.

It’s early days for some of the best-rated wines from standout vintages. For example, for the highly rated 2016 vintage, Liv-ex data showed Lafite and Mouton have risen strongly in price, while growth for Margaux and Haut-Brion has been less marked so far.

The examples of risers and fallers below are based on Liv-ex data, using the quoted ‘market price’ in July 2021 versus the wines’ UK en primeur release price (ex-London) – in pound sterling currency.

Three risers

Margaux 2015

A top performer, it has risen by around 150% since its UK en primeur release. It was a good year in the appellation and the wine is packaged in a commemorative bottle to mark the final vintage of late MD Paul Pontallier.

Mouton Rothschild 2019

All of the 2019-vintage first growths are today more expensive than on release. By July 2021 Mouton 2019 was up by around 30% versus its UK en primeur price of £3,588 per 12 bottles in bond.

Lafite Rothschild 2014

By July 2021, every vintage of Lafite Rothschild back to 2014 was more than 20% above its en primeur release price, showed Liv-ex data. Lafite 2014 has roughly doubled in value since release. Mouton, Haut-Brion and Margaux 2014 have also risen significantly. The vintage was considered better than 2013, 2012 and 2011 and it emerged just as the market was beginning to stabilise following a turbulent few years.

Two fallers

Margaux 2017

Margaux 2017 was down by just over 10% versus its en primeur release price, Liv-ex figures showed. There is, however, a lot to enjoy in the wine; ‘Extremely elegant and finessed spicing on the nose, this has beautiful aromatics,’ Anson wrote in her tasting note for Decanter.

Haut-Brion 2018

More of a non-mover than a significant faller, Liv-ex quoted a market price for Haut-Brion 2018 that was slightly under its ex-London (UK) release price. Still, this is a ‘powerfully built’ wine with many decades left, as Jane Anson said in her tasting note for Decanter, giving it 98 points.

Debate about release volumes

The proportion of grand vin released during en primeur by different châteaux has become a bigger talking point.

There have been reports of estates holding more wine back – something for collectors to be aware of – but policies vary by property.

Some châteaux still release most of their grand vin en primeur. A spokesperson for Mouton Rothschild told Decanter in July 2021, ‘For this primeurs campaign, the proportion of Château Mouton Rothschild (grand vin) released is 85%. This figure is in the high range of what is released each year, between 75 and 85%.’

One estate pursuing a different policy is Château Palmer, which told Decanter last year it had held back roughly 50% of its grand vin from en primeur over the previous decade. As of 2020, Palmer now releases fresh ex-cellar stock of a 10-year-old vintage every September. The 2011 grand vin is next up.

At Les Carmes Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan, a spokesperson said the estate doesn’t publish figures but release volumes vary from vintage to vintage.

During a consultation period between châteaux and négociants in Bordeaux, ‘one of the key things to discuss is the quantity released’, said Philippe Tapie, speaking as head of the grands cru committee of the Bordeaux Négoce trade body.

Releasing the majority of a vintage en primeur can help châteaux take full advantage of the sales campaign, he said, but he also accepted that estates themselves are ultimately the brand owners.

In general, ‘the dialogue between the négociants and the châteaux is better and better’, he said.

Brand power

Ratings still matter, of course. Renowned labels from five-star vintages might inform an investment view, or a series of strong scores over consecutive vintages may alert canny buyers to a château on the up.

But in the US, JJ Buckley’s Bishop said, ‘Customers are putting more emphasis on brands and less on ratings. I believe this is a small but notable shift in American consumer behaviour.’

Brand power isn’t new to Bordeaux and several wines have a strong following in certain markets. Analyst group Wine Lister recently noted Château Lynch-Bage’s ‘strong brand strength and loyal following, particularly on the UK market’, for instance.

This can make a difference at en primeur. At Bordeaux Index, O’Connell told Decanter during the 2020 campaign, ‘Léoville Barton is always well received and while pricing was at the higher end of what we might have expected, demand has been good.’

Several wines have gained reputations as estates to watch particularly closely during the en primeur campaign. This can be for a number of reasons, from the quality trajectory of the château in general to a track record of price rises following release.

In Pomerol, Château Lafleur 2019 has more than doubled in price since being released in the UK at £5,800 per 12-bottle case in bond last summer.

In St-Emilion, Figeac and Canon are both considered to be among estates on the up. The new St-Emilion Classification scheduled for 2022 could be interesting to watch in this regard.

Les Carmes Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan is another example of a château on the rise. Given its reputation for price rises following release, analyst group Wine Lister described Les Carmes Haut-Brion as ‘a darling of the aftermarket’ in its analysis of the 2020 en primeur campaign.

Second wines of the very best estates can also be interesting to follow. Wine Owners tipped Carruades de Lafite 2020 as a wine to watch for buyers seeking an ‘immediate return’.

There are plenty of others to watch from a quality point-of-view, of course. Find out more about the latest goings-on in Bordeaux in 2021 in this in-depth guide.

A downloadable PDF version of the Collector’s Guide: Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur is available here.

Click here to join Decanter Premium now and enjoy instant access to the Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur Collector’s guide as well as past Collector’s Guide’s including Left Bank Bordeaux, Napa and Piedmont.

Report by Chris Mercer for Decanter Premium. A freelance journalist and former editor of Decanter.com, Chris has written about the global fine wine market for more than a decade

Disclaimer

Please note that this report has been published purely for informational purposes and does not constitute financial or investment advice. All price information is subject to change, and the prices and availability of wines cited will vary between countries, currencies and retailers. Decanter and the editorial team behind this report do not accept liability for the ongoing accuracy of its contents. Seek independent and professional advice where necessary and be aware that wine investment is unregulated in several markets. Please be aware that prices can go down as well as up.

See also

Collector’s guide: The rise of PiedmontCollector’s guide: Napa Valley wine

Bordeaux wines are some of the most celebrated in the world so they make fitting presents when it comes to commemorating important dates or life moments.

Unlike for Champagne or Port, every year is a vintage year in Bordeaux but it’s a region where weather conditions dictate the quality and price of the resulting wines.

Scroll down for scores and recommendations from 2010, 2002, 2000, 1999, 1990, 1980, 1970, 1960 and beyond

Lucky are those with birthdays or anniversaries in great years though often there can be more surprising, and better value wines, in so called ‘off-vintages’. These can even be the best years to go to if you are looking for wines to drink young – the bigger and more celebrated years can take decades to reach their drinking window.

Bordeaux wines have long been revered for their ageing potential, often taking between 5 and 10 years to reach their first step of approachability. Young wines can be austere with robust tannins and need a certain number of years of settle, however, quite often their first release can be the cheapest time to buy – worth considering for new baby or parent gifts from last year when the 2019s will be released later this year.

Many great Bordeaux wines don’t reach perfect drinking conditions for 30-40 years, though a recent tasting by Sarah Jane Evans MW of a 1939 right bank wine from St-Emilion proved they have incredible staying power.

They can also continue to age in bottle so make great investments if the wine is meant to appreciate and not just be consumed there and then.

10th (2010)

Those born in 2010 are very fortunate indeed, especially if they receive Bordeaux wines as presents throughout their life. Arguably the best vintage of the 21st century in Bordeaux, 2010 has produced some exceptional wines that are built to last.

Jane Anson’s recent 10 year on tasting proved just how successful this vintage was, and still is, commenting; ‘For me they did what the 2010s have always had the capacity to do; slowly but surely convince you that these are some of the best wines Bordeaux has ever produced.’

Anson found ‘the tasting was packed full of delightful wines’ highlighting Pauillac as a stand-out region ‘delivering a line-up of greatest hits’ with St-Julien ‘close behind’ but ‘less clear brilliance on the Right Bank’.

The tasting provided five 100-point wines – praise indeed, with Anson lauding their pleasurable, enjoyable and powerful characteristics. Although with three first growths in that mix, (Latour, Lafite and Mouton) and Margaux and Haut-Brion just one and two points apart respectively, they also come with pretty hefty price tags. As do the top right bank wines including Angelus, Petrus, Pavie and Le Pin.

In Decanter’s ‘to drink or to keep’ vintage guide, 2010 is a 5-star vintage with drinkability as ‘keep’. The accompanying tasting note reads: ‘A truly great vintage: ripe but with firm acidity and tannins. The best wines will need five years or more.’

A selection of Decanter-rated 2010 wines available on the market:

• Château Gloria, St-Julien, 94 points, less than £50 / $65
• Château Guiraud, Sauternes, 95 points, less than £50 / $50
• Château Rauzan Segla, 96 points, around £100 / $130
• Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 100 points, around £115 / $180
• Château Leoville Las Cases, 2010, St-Julien, 100 points, around £160/ $250
• Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 100 points, around £600/ $990

18th (2002)

Sandwiched between 2001 which produced good wines, especially for the right bank but overshadowed by the famous 2000 vintage, and the heatwave vintage of 2003, 2002 finds its strength on the Left Bank.

It could be considered a classic or traditional Bordeaux vintage where there is quality if not much excitement. A rainy spring followed by a cold summer lacking sun didn’t bode well initially but the vintage was saved in part by warm temperatures that finally arrived in mid-September. Producers who prioritised sorting and careful selection produced some first-rate, well-structured wines especially from the Médoc and the Graves.

With 18 years of age these wines are drinking well now so make great gifts for an occasion where they’ll be consumed, but they’ll also continue to age well.

A selection of Decanter-rated 2002 wines currently available on the market:

• Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, 91 points, around £50/ $90
• Château D’Issan, Margaux, 91 points, around £50/ $NA
• Domaine de Chevalier, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, 95 points, around £90/ $110
• Château Cos d’Estournel, Pauillac, 92 points, around £100/ $125
• Château Lafleur, Pomerol, 95 points, around £250/ $460
• Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 93 points, around £450/ $600

20th (2000)

Met with immediate acclaim at the time, the millennium vintage has taken its time to come around, thanks to their richly, tannic structures, but after two decades these wines are now ‘springing to life’ confirmed Jane Anson who recently re-visited the vintage.

A rainy spring followed by a cool, rainy late May and early June meant some uneven flowering occurred with high risk of disease, but a hot summer and autumn resulted in one of the most drawn-out harvests beginning in early September and finishing in mid-October.

The reds had concentrated phenolics – high sugar, colour and tannins which meant it’s taken longer than average for them to soften and impress. While they showcase opulence and density Anson recommends holding off on opening for another five years. They nevertheless will make excellent presents that can be drunk now if you carafe for a few hours first.

A selection of Decanter-rated 2000 wines currently available on the market:

• Château Montrose, St-Estèphe, 97 points, around £100/ $180
• Château Leoville Las Cases, 98 points, around £200/ $300
• Château Palmer, Margaux, 99 points, around £220/ $340
• Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 98 points, around £400/ $580
• Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 96 points, around £220/ $190

21st (1999)

An unheralded year for Bordeaux but not one to write off. It’s not just a case of good or bad vintages as there are many delicious wines made in off-vintages but it pays to research and choose wisely here.

Looking at weather patterns for the year is a good place to start, seeing which areas fared better than others then look to an estate’s track record as well as any changes of ownership or recent additions to the team at the time.

What had been a promising vintage was scuppered by rain during the harvest period, especially on the Right Bank where hail decimated parts of St-Emilion in early September. A cool and damp summer meant vineyards were vulnerable to oidium, mildew and grey rot but warm weather in late August and early September allowed grapes to ripen enough to avoid vegetal flavours.

The Left Bank is generally viewed as the better half with the Médoc and Graves spared by the storms and Margaux’s well-draining soils giving it the advantage.

A selection of Decanter-rated 1999 wines currently available on the market:

• Château Roc de Cambes, 91 points, around £60/ $113
• Château Rauzan Segla, 90 points, around £80/ $130
• Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 94 points, around £550/ $740

30th (1990)

Continuing the run of exceptional vintages ending in a ‘0’, 1990 had all the conditions needed to produce outstanding wines. It formed what is considered one of the ‘greatest vintage pairings of all times’ Anson commented when conducting a recent tasting comparison between 1990 and 1989.

The growing season saw a very mild winter, a cool spring warming up in May leading to early flowering. July and August were the driest since 1961, the hottest since 1947 and the sunniest since 1949. Welcome showers arrived in September to ripen berries sufficiently and deliver a good-size crop with grapes that had a rich tannic structure and fairly low acidity.

‘They are the kind of years that Bordeaux loves, and that can deliver wines of longevity, which just seem to power through the decades’ Anson wrote. In terms of flavour profile the wines are still showing a good freshness and ‘firm but yielding tannic structure’ with classic signature notes of ageing claret – ‘menthol, eucalyptus, cedar and melted black fruits’.

In terms of drinking Anson says they’re ‘very much in their drinking window, although there is no great rush to drink them up if you have them in your cellar. Both vintages have enough fruit and structure that they should remain at this level for another decade at least, with perhaps the 1990 having the slight edge in terms of future development’ – good news indeed.

However, they’re likely to be harder to come by on the open market and, as an example, the 100pt Château Cheval Blanc 1990, if you can find it, is likely to fetch near £1,000 per bottle.

This isn’t just a good year for reds though, white and sweet wines are considered spectacular with powerful and complex bottlings from Haut-Brion and many estates in Sauternes.

A selection of Decanter-rated 1990 wines currently available on the market:

• Domaine de Chevalier, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, 95 points, around £130/ $NA
• Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 96 points, around £200/ $289
• Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien, 96 points, around £240/ $350
• Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac, 95 points, around £260/ $350
• Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion, 100 points, around £900/ $1,20

40th (1980)

A difficult vintage, and one considered mediocre, though properties with porous, gravelly soils made the best wines with Margaux and Graves faring well alongside some estates in Pauillac.

Vintage conditions saw a cool spring followed by June and July that were damp and lacking in sunshine. Temperatures picked up in August remaining warm into September but there was little sunshine and ripening was delayed.

Don’t despair though, if you’re looking for a 1980 for an upcoming birthday or anniversary look to Sauternes – particularly the top estates of Château d’Yquem and Château Climens which made good wines that are drinking well today.

If it’s got to be red, and money’s no object or you have them in the cellar, Certain de May, Petrus and Cheval Blanc again are safe bets.

A selection of 1980 wines currently available on the market:

• Château Haut-Batailley, Pauillac, around £80/ $100
• Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac, around 120/ $NA
• Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, half-bottle around £120/ $300
• Château Climens, Sauternes, bottle around £90/ $NA
• Château Margaux, Margaux, around £250/ $NA
• Pétrus, Pomerol, around £1,150/ $1,850

50th (1970)

Finding a great bottle of wine at fifty-years-old can be somewhat tricky but fortunately Bordeaux does produce such wines of longevity and this was a great year for rich and complex claret.

At the time quality was consistent in all the major regions but many new vineyards were coming into production and there was ‘precious little selection’.

Today, that means many are lean, dry and mean, however great bottles can still be found from Pauillac which produced some outstanding wines that have stood the test of time and Margaux which have developed well.

There are also some fantastic wines produced on the Right Bank with Pomerol estates Petrus, La Conseillante and La Fleur-Petrus standing out for ripeness and concentration.

In Decanter’s vintage assessment it says: ‘Pauillac: Latour is a classic which seems to go on improving and opening out. Mouton is spicy and elegant but drier, and Pichon Lalande has lovely fruit and harmony, now at its best.

Saint-Julien: Today Ducru Beaucaillou shows the best fruit and harmony. Beychevelle is very stylish and long. Gruaud Larose is now drying out.

Margaux: Palmer is consistently powerful and rich. Brane Cantenac still has body sweetness and freshness, and Giscours has done exceptionally well.’

At this age, look to consistent estates that have proven their capability as well as reading up-to-date tasting notes and, if you’re buying rather than taking out of the cellar, investigate provenance, storage and maintenance conditions.

A selection of 1970 wines currently available on the market:

• Château Brane Cantenac, Margaux, around £75/ $80
• Château Beychevelle, St-Julien, between £80-115/ $250
• Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, around £180/ $290
• Château La Fleur-Petrus, Pomerol, around £200/ $380
• Château Ducru Beaucaillou, St-Julien, between £220-250/ $295
• Château Latour, Pauillac, between £290-550/ $450
• Château Palmer, Margaux, between £350-450/ $700
• Château Pétrus, Pomerol, between £2,000-3,500/ $3,600

60th (1960 and beyond)

A mediocre vintage with many wines lacking concentration and tasting diluted due to cold summer months and non stop rain during August and September. Being stuck between two of the most lauded vintages from the 20th century – 1959 and 1961, there has never been much interest in bottles from 1960 however as always there will be gems to be found. It’s probable only the first growths and top cru classes will still be drinking well – and most likely to be available – so that’s a good place to start.

First Growth 1960 wines available on the market:

• Château Latour, Pauillac, between £700-800/ $1,900
• Château Lafite, Pauillac, around £1,000/ $NA
• Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, around £700/ $1,000
• Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, around £460/ $NA
• Château Margaux, Margaux, N/A UK/US

For even older wines beyond 1960, Anson says ‘Bordeaux often surpasses expectations of ageing, and many times you open a wine that is at its peak and clearly still stubbornly refusing to go away; or one that should be way past it and yet still giving huge pleasure even if the flavours are tertiary, with undergrowth, walnut and soft tobacco taking the place of the cassis fruits.

‘Even when the fruit has long been chased away, it’s hard to discount the pleasure that can be found in taffy, truffle and saffron spices.’

In 2018 Anson had the incredible opportunity to taste two mammoth and historic verticals, the first ‘150 years of Château Lafite’ dating back to 1881 and the second ‘100 years of Château Talbot’.

Speaking of the older wines in Lafite’s line-up, Anson said they ‘were even more of a surprise – the 1934 could have been a good 50 years younger, as could the 1917’ and ‘the drink by dates are clearly conservative estimates when you consider that the 1881 and 1894 wines are still going strong’.

Her top bottlings include four 100-point wines including 1959, 2005, 1986 and 2010 with the 1894 and 1881 vintages both scoring 95 points.

Of the 1959 she said: ‘Now almost 60 years old, it still has a deep, rich colour that has barely budged since my last visit. Perfectly balanced, it barely tastes older than the 1982 and displays the cedar signature of Lafite coupled with truffles, graphite and still-rich cassis and bilberry fruits. There’s something more besides, that’s hard to pinpoint but elevates the whole experience – maybe it’s the mouthwatering persistency and the dancing minerality.’ And of the 1881 vintage she said: ‘So soft and gently welcoming is it in structure, this could be from the 1950s. There are touches of rust and iron filings on the nose, yet there is still life and freshness and the memory of autumnal fruit. It’s tawny in colour and the tannins are almost imperceptible, but it has kept its balance.’

In her top Talbot picks was the 1919 vintage, 1934, 1945 and 1947 (both of which scored 95 points), 1953 and 1955.

Of the 1945 she wrote: ‘Just seeing the vintage 1945 on the label produces a shiver. In terms of weather, there was frost in May after a fine, hot April, meaning low volumes. This was followed by a heatwave in July, with serious fires in the Landes region to the south of Bordeaux. August had a mix of sun and rain, and harvest started around 7 September – less than a week after the end of the Second World War. The nose is a little less intense than the 1934, but it’s full of clarity of expression, and the aromatics build throughout its time in the glass. On the palate it is full of flavour, surprising with its raspberry, undergrowth and bracken notes, accompanied by leather and tobacco. You’re walking over crunchy leaves at autumn time. The complexity that still breathes through this wine is incredible, and it’s pretty gulpable because there’s both fruit and acidity here – life is crackling within it. Tasted blind, you might say this was a 1982, maybe a 1961, but certainly something exceptional. It’s so remarkably young it seems to have almost closed up again when retasted an hour later, and those tannins are tenacious, almost rubbery in their ability to keep on bouncing through. A genuinely moving wine.’

The two tastings alone prove Bordeaux’s staying power and that these wines have an incredible capacity to age. The only issue is when to actually open a bottle to find out…

Beyond Bordeaux? Decanter’s guide to anniversary wines for 2020

See a selection of top Decanter-rated wines from anniversary years

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Top Vintage Champagnes from 2000 and 2002Bordeaux 1989 vs 1990: Battle of the vintagesAnson: Tasting 150 years of Lafite Rothschild winesAnson: Tasting 100 years of Château Talbot wines

Bottles produced: 250,000

Grapes: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot

Yield: 45 hL/ha

Alcohol: 13%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2013-2027

Price UK: £120 (Magnum)

Price US: $200 (Magnum)

The vintage: A benchmark year for Bordeaux, 2005 has gone down as a triumph for many. ‘It would have needed a very poor winemaker to introduce vegetal notes and a stupid one to over-extract,’ said Steven Spurrier after the 2005 en primeur tastings. Cabernet wines were noted for their excellent ripeness. Drinking well now but the top names should have plenty of years left in them.

The wine: Harvest took place from 21st September to 10th October in dry and sunny conditions with more than 100 pickers collecting the fruit. The grapes were vinified in stainless steel tanks before 20 months aging in French oak (60% new), with racking every three months. The final wine was blended after barrel selection.

Bottles produced: 1,000

Grapes: 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay

Yield: 45 hL/ha

Alcohol: 12%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2020-2030

Price UK: £300 (Magnum)

Price US: $500 (Magnum)

The vintage: Nyetimber winemaker Brad Greatrix describes 2010 as ‘the slightly unsung vintage.’ It was hot in June and July which helped with healthy flowering and fruit set, then throughout August and September is was dry and warm which resulted in fruit of fantastic quality.

The wine: 1086 is a new cuvée from Nyetimber, launched in 2018 and named after the year of the estate’s first ever mention in the Domesday Book. The Pinot-dominant blend is developed and rounded thanks for a lengthy period on its lees. The wine was bottled in April 2011 after primary fermentation in tank and disgorged more than five years later in June 2016.

Decanter review/reaction: Elegant red fruit with a subtle hint of spice is shrouded in a gentle, creamy overcoat with some woody nuance. A long finish and the purity of fruit marks this out as a quality wine, although it certainly doesn’t shout about it.

Grapes: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Yield: 5.5 kgs/ha

Alcohol: 14.7%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2013-2023

Price UK: £140 (magnum)

Price US: $200 (magnum)

The vintage: Across the Torres stable 2006 was considered a very good red wine year. The growing season was dry and warm with less rainfall than average (just 400mm). A warm spring and summer was followed by a cooler autumn which helped with balance in the reds and set these wines up for a long aging window.

The wine: Harvest began on 18^th September when the best quality fruit from a small 29-hectare single site was selected for Mas La Plana. 28 days skin-contact and fermentation in stainless steel was followed by 18 months’ aging in new French oak casks. The wine was bottled in July 2008, and aged again in bottle before release.

Bottles produced: 131, 696

Grapes: 100% Tempranillo

Yield: 4.5 kg/ha

Alcohol: 14.5%

Format: 750 ml

Drink from/to: 2020-2030

Price UK: £50

Price US: $100

The vintage: A stellar year for Rioja, 2004 got off to a slow start with low temperatures in March, April and early May delaying the start of the growth cycle. However, once active, it made up for the lost time. Plants evolved well through July and August (which saw scattered thunderstorms throughout the region), and rain in early September was followed by a period of exceptionally good weather which remained throughout the harvest dominated by sunny days with moderate temperatures and cool nights.

The wine: Old vine Tempranillo is hand-picked and sorted before temperature-controlled fermentation in oak vats. The wine is aged in 225L oak barrels – 50% new 50% second fill – for 16 months, followed by 20 months in bottle.

Decanter review/reaction: All bush vines, all 100% fruit from a single vintage, with natural yeasts fermented in French oak vats. This is ageing slowly, showing grilled red and black berry fruits, with liquorice and smoky peat notes, great persistency and still confident tannins. An excellent vintage with a cool start and a hot finish, giving extra complexity and clear intensity. 94 points – Jane Anson, November 2019

Bottles produced: 48,000

Grapes: Chardonnay

Alcohol: 12.5%

Format: 750mL

Drink from/to: 2020-2040

Price UK: £100

Price US: $150

 The vintage: A mild winter resulted in early spring budbreak. The summer saw an excellent balance between leaves and fruit with healthy vines producing loosely-packed bunches. A cool August helped maintain good acidity levels in the fruit and saw an interesting development of aromas.

The wine: The Riserva del Fondatore is extra brut in style and comes from vineyards on the Pianizza estate located 500m-600m above sea level on the cool side of the river valley. The Chardonnay grapes are hand-picked in mid-September before going through primary fermentation and bottling. Secondary fermentation takes place in bottle. The wine then ages on its lees for 10 years acquiring great complexity, balance and elegance.

Decanter review/reaction (2006 vintage): Tiny bubbles, with pristine clarity on a nose of toasted hazelnuts, apricot and baked apple with a nuance of bread crust and vanilla. Sumptuous creamy texture, vibrantly fresh and infinitely long. 98 points – Richard Baudains, August 2017.

Bottles produced: 9,600 bottles and 33 magnums

Grapes: 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Carignan

Yield: 20 hL/Ha

Alcohol: 15%

Format: 750 mL

Drink from/to: 2025-2027

Price UK: N/A

Price US: $35

The vintage: For those who avoided the unusual (but in some cases severe) late spring frosts Languedoc-Roussillon enjoyed a good-excellent year in 2017. A long warm summer ripened fruit evenly, with many enjoying an early harvest, and quality across the board was celebrated.

The wine: Grapes grown on the shale and granite soils of Maury were hand-harvested and sorted before traditional vinification and aging in large oak barrels and cement vats. Les Dentelles is the ‘big sister’ of the Domaine’s Cuvee Constance, offering great power and freshness and dominated by bold red fruit. The Domaine itself is a relatively new venture, established in 2001 by Jean-Luc Thunevin, owner of Château Valandaud in St Emilion and Jean-Roger Calvet, a young winemaker from Maury.

Bottles produced: 11,000

Grapes: 100% Syrah

Yield: 31 hL/ha

Alcohol: 12.5%

Format: 750 ml

Drink from/to: 2020-2022

Price UK: £120

Price US: $150

 The vintage: 2011 was a good solid year in the Northern Rhone, with yields up on 2010. Perfect spring conditions aided healthy and timely bud break before colder, wetter conditions persisted through the early summer. A dry August helped fruit set and produced a healthy crop with medium weight and strong fruit character.

The wine: Dedicated to Cave de Tain founder Louis Gambert de Loche this exceptional cuvée is made from parcels of fruit owned by the Cave, grown predominantly on granite and fluvio-glacial alluvial soils. Hand-picked fruit is fermented long and slow in oak vats before maturation in 225 litre French oak barrels, which regular racking. The wine is aged in total for 16 months before fining and bottling.

Decanter review/reaction (2010 vintage): Great intensity, with a hint of evolution and mature fruits. Lovely purity and velvet texture, very well balanced and precise. 93 points – Christian Honorez, Tanguy Martin, Matt Walls, October 2019

Bottles produced: 11,400

Grapes: 100% Malbec

Yield: N/A

Alcohol: 14%

Format: 6L

Drink from/to: 2015-2025

Price UK: £700 (6l bottle)

Price US: $800 (6l bottle)

The vintage: The 2010 vintage in Mendoza was noted for its low yields and high quality. A cold spring delayed bud break and led to uneven flowering, but while yields at Catena Zapata were down 20-25% overall, the quality and concentration of fruit across the board more than made up for this. ‘It is hard to complain about the low yields when you taste and see the concentration and richness of the wines in the tanks and barrels,’ noted the winery in its post-harvest report.

The wine: This iconic Mendoza Malbec comes from two of Catena Zapata’s historic Malbec vineyards Adrianna and Nicasia. Fruit from the old vines of these two high-altitude sites is hand-harvested and fermented ‘wild’ for 30-32 days in new French oak barrels (225-500 litre); 80% is destemmed, and the rest goes in whole cluster. The wine matures in barrel for 24 months before blending and bottling, unfined and unfiltered. The wine is bright, dense and fruit-packed with remarkable texture and complexity.

Bottles produced: 120,000

Grapes: 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot

Yield: 33 hL/ha

Alcohol: 14%

Format: 750mL

Drink from/to: 2020-2030

Price UK: £140

Price US: $190

The vintage: Billed as a brilliant vintage 2009 produced Bordeaux wines with concentration and power. The year began on the front foot with a warm spring – tempered slightly by a mild but rainy April – and really picked by in may with fine weather and excellent sunshine leading to swift and even flowering. Summer was extremely warm and even; this meant that veraison, like flowering, was relatively uniform, although there were some issues with lack of rainfall, particularly as things headed into September and the sunshine kept on coming.

The wine: Fruit is hand-harvested and destemmed ‘berry by berry’ before a low-temperature cold soak and fermentation in 30-70 hL wooden vats. Fermentation takes 30-40 days then the wine is run off into French oak where it goes through MLF and matures for 18 months.

Decanter review/reaction (2010 vintage): An early-ripening and generous wine in an early-ripening and generous year, this is full of the exuberance that it demonstrated when young. The terroir is starting to exert its influence now, with a lovely pull back on the finish as the tannins step up. It’s still youthful and buttoned down but the fruit is exotically ripe and really starting to come into its prime, with traces of heavy black pepper spice. Extremely good quality, if vintage led. 95 points – Jane Anson, February 2019

Bottles produced: 335,000

Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot

Yield: 52 hL/ha

Alcohol: 12.8%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2010-2025

Price UK: £200 (magnum)

Price US: $250 (magnum)

The vintage: Budbreak came on 25th March after a cold start to the year, followed by a mixed May then a heatwave in June that saw good flowering. July was cool and wet for the first half, hot and dry in the second half, then August alternated between rain and a heatwave. There was fine weather again in September and most of October. All in all, it was a very good vintage for the Médoc.

The wine: Manual harvest was followed by sorting in the vineyard then vinification in oak vats. The wine matured in small oak barriques (50% new) for 18 months before blending and bottling.

Decanter review/reaction: At this stage the colour is firmly in the rich claret zone – ruby red, not overly intense but full of life. The wine is very enjoyable and has that lovely St-Julien signature of rich black fruits floating over a bed of air, as the acidity in the Cabernet takes flight. This gives it a sense of poise and confidence, and again the signature mouth-watering finish. It’s not going for intensity and punch, but for complexity and elegance without sacrificing fruit – there are dark, spicy notes in here. 93 points – Jane Anson, December 2018

Bottles produced: 12,800

Grapes: 100% Merlot

Yield: 3 tonne/Ha

Alcohol: 15%

Format: 750mL

Drink from/to: 2022-2035

Price UK: £160

Price US: $215

The vintage: 2016 was an exceptional vintage in Tuscany and, according to owner and winemaker Stefano Frascolla, the best in 20 years. The cool night temperatures allowed for beautifully precise aromatics and perfectly ripe, harmonious tannins.

The wine: This iconic SuperTuscan is 1,made from 100% Merlot grown on clay soils with pebble and silt deposits in the Upper Maremma. Hand-picked fruit enjoys a long maceration and frequent punch downs during fermentation which adds concentration and texture. It’s matured for 18-20 months in new French oak barriques, and after going into bottle in the summer, the wine is left to age for several months before release to market. Unfiltered and unfined.

Decanter review/reaction: This wine expresses the vintage beautifully and is the best Redigaffi I have tasted – simply stunning! Complex and tightly wound, it carries its 15% alcohol really well. There are hints of roasted coffee beans and green herbs on the nose, while the palate is super-concentrated yet beautifully balanced, with very fine-textured tannins. Blackcurrant, smoky plum and liquorice flavours are joined by a lovely freshness. A beauty. 100 points – Susan Hulme MW, March 2019

Bottles produced: 1,200 (Magnums)

Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon

Yield: 4 tonnes/ha

Alcohol: 14.5%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2020-2070

Price UK: £200 (magnum)

Price US:  $240 (magnum)

The vintage: Following three stellar years Napa valley enjoyed another textbook vintage in 2009. Volume was slightly below average but quality was high, with steady weather throughout the summer and ideal late-season conditions.

The wine: ‘In 1984 when this vineyard came up for sale, we jumped on it,’ said David Heitz. ‘We knew it had great potential in the right hands to establish a powerful identity of its own.’ The Heitz family has done just that and Trailside Vineyard is regraded as one of the Valley’s flagship Cabernets. The single site is made up of 16 blocks, grapes from which are vinified and aged separately (in neutral then 100% new French Limousin oak) before the best barrels are blended to craft the Trailside Cabernet. Once in bottle, the wine spends a year in bottle ‘coming together’ before release.

Decanter review/reaction (2010 vintage): From a vineyard in east Rutherford, the 2010 Trailside is bursting with notes of deep black fruit, burning embers, singed plum and bitter chocolate—or is that the famed “Rutherford dust”? Richly savoury, this wine is structured around velvety tannins and bright acidity and should cruise along in the cellar. 94 points – William Kelley, May 2016.

Bottles produced: 250,000

Grapes: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Yield: 40 hL/ha

Alcohol: 13.5%

Format: 750 ml

Drink from/to: 2020-2025

Price UK: $50

Price US: £40

The vintage: 2003 was a hot vintage with the summer heatwave ripening fruit and bringing great aromatic finesse, high alcohol content and good extraction of the colour. Ideal conditions in September tended to favour the later ripening Cabernets over the earlier Merlots, but across the board producers were very happy.

The wine: Château Clarke is named after the Irish family that acquired the estate in 1771. The property was acquired by Baron Edmond de Rothschild in 1973. This Merlot-Cabernet blend is hand-picked and sorted before fermentation in oak vats then maturation in new French oak barrels for 14-18 months. It’s a concentrated and powerful wine, made for aging.

Bottles produced: 3,600

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir

Yield: 2.5 tonne/acre

Format: 3 Litre

Drink from/to: 2025-2035

Price UK: N/A

Price US: $620 per 3l Magnum

The vintage: The 2015 growing season kicked off early with ‘just the right amount of sun/rain/heat for a successful bud break and no frost damage.’ A sunny July brought about worries of drought stress to the vines but mid-August rain helped to even things out. Harvest began on 9^th September 9^th and was quicker than normal, completing on 23rd September.

The wine: The Giant is a collectable cuvée which sees the coming together of two of Beaux Freres’ most highly prized vineyard sites, The Upper Terrace Vineyard and The Beaux Frères Vineyard. Fruit from these vineyards spent 10 months in French oak post-fermentation before another five months in second-fill barrels before bottling in magnum and double magnum.