Latest from Decanter (Vanilla) in Chablis

White Burgundy starter pack: How to figure out what you like

Charles Curtis MW — Mon, 25 May 2026 06:30:00 +0000

White Burgundy is one of life’s great pleasures, so don’t be intimidated – it’s easy to dive right in.

Although the category offers incredible diversity in style, quality, and price, we provide a roadmap that gives you a shortcut for deciding which wine is perfect for you on every occasion.

The best way to begin is to ask yourself the questions below.

Who will you be with?

(Image credit: PHILIPPE DESMAZES / AFP / Getty)

Family, friends, and work clients each require a different solution to finding the perfect white Burgundy.

Choosing a wine to share with your family should be easy, but often it isn't. Hopefully, they will not judge you, but one wants top quality for those who are close.

Ideally, your house white Burgundy will be an everyday wine, so find a producer working in a style that you like and anchor your wine fridge with one of their entry-level offerings.

I delight in finding a solid sub-£25 Mâcon-Villages and laying down a case for frequent drinking, such as the Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras.

You may wish to surprise your friends, so explore something new among the region's rising stars.

The wines with the most buzz will not be the least expensive, but they will still cost less than top names.

Guillaume Lafon, son of renowned winemaker Dominique Lafon, has just founded his own domaine and is producing tremendously exciting wines.

Clients need to be impressed with a classic wine that is reliable in every vintage, so choose a well-known name from a classic region.

Bosses, however, will be impressed by smart choices, so let the size of your expense account determine whether you are picking a regional Bourgogne, a village-level wine, or a ravishing premier cru.

What is your style?

(Image credit: age fotostock / Alamy Stock Photo)

At the risk of oversimplifying, it may help to think of three main styles of white Burgundy: crisp and refreshing, richly exuberant, and polished and elegant.

The good news is that you can find bargains among all three types. The classic example of ‘crisp and refreshing’ is Chablis.

The wines have aromas of citrus and green apple, and the better ones have a pronounced flinty, mineral note.

Although it’s fine to start with an inexpensive Petit Chablis, but for a surprisingly small increase in price, you will find a village-level Chablis like the 2024 Domaine Billaud-Simon that will give you the full range of minerally, lemony fruit.

At the opposite end of the spectrum are richly exuberant white Burgundies, like those from the southern districts of Burgundy (the Mâconnais).

This region offers some of the most reasonably priced wines, yet also delivers great quality, particularly in crus whose names appear alone on the label.

The single vineyard Saint-Véran Les Crèches from talented grower Domaine Saumaise-Michelin is a perfect place to start.

Wines from all over Burgundy could fit into our ‘polished and elegant’ category, but to simplify, focus on finding values from the rarified 'golden triangle' of white Burgundy villages: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet.

These villages are renowned for the quality and complexity of their wines, but they can often be expensive; some, however, will fit into your Starter Pack.

One example is the Bourgogne Côte d'Or from Meursault producer Michel Bouzereau.

Although they are grown outside the area for village-level wines, they still show some of their noble character.

Where and when are you drinking?

(Image credit: Christina Rasmussen)

A final consideration is time and place. White Burgundy is incredibly versatile, so don't be afraid to mix it up.

In a restaurant, the tried-and-true pairings could be Chablis with shellfish or lighter fish such as sole.

The wines of the Côte d’Or can accompany more substantial dishes such as roast chicken, pork, or duck, and the exuberantly fruity wines of the Mâconnais are well suited to spicier food such as Indian or Chinese.

To answer the perennial question ‘when to drink?’, one must leave it to personal preference, and many inexpensive white Burgundies drink well on release.

The best of the premier cru wines, however, need some time to digest the oak used in their ageing, and warrant up to a decade of cellaring, while the top grand cru whites can easily age for 50 years.

Once you know the ‘who, what, where, and when’ of Burgundy, you won’t need any help deciding ‘why’, since these wines are among the most enjoyable whites produced anywhere.

Your White Burgundy starter pack

Decoding the Mâconnais: Burgundy lovers should keep their eyes on this southern star

$15 white Burgundy and magnums of Riesling: What our Burgundy expert drinks at home

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains: A taste of Burgundy as it once was and why it deserves its revival

Chablis 2024 vintage report: The must-buy wines from classic but tiny crop

Charles Curtis MW — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 08:00:42 +0000

The difficult 2024 vintage in Chablis was ‘historically problematic,’ according to winemaker Laurent Pinson.

The press release of the BIVB, the region’s normally up-beat trade commission, admits: ‘Floods, excess rains, frost, hail…nothing saved the vines’.

And yet, there are glimmers of hope. The appeal is the return to the fresh, racy acidity, light body and low alcohol of previous decades.

Romain Chevrolat, winemaker at Domaine Laroche, describes the vintage as ‘old school’.

Guillaume Michaut at Domaine 47°N 3°E agrees: ‘This is a vintage our grandfathers could have made’.

Although overall quality is decidedly mixed, with little consistency between grand and premier cru to village level, lovers of vibrant, acid- and mineral-driven wines will find wines to age, since the best 2024 Chablis will improve for years to come with cellaring.

Charles’s favourite wines from Chablis 2024 listed below

Chablis 2024 vintage rating: 3.5/5

A catastrophically small harvest with problems at every turn, 2024 nonetheless produced some vibrant, ageworthy examples in the hands of the best producers. Cool, rainy conditions produced wines that are light in alcohol and body. Yet, the best wines, sustained by dynamic acidity and classic Chablis minerality, will delight fans of the Chablis of former times.

Wine of the vintage: Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Top Petit Chablis: Domaine 47°N 3°E, Petit Chablis

Top Chablis: Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis

Top Chablis 1er Cru: Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent

Top Chablis Grand Cru: Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Disaster strikes early

The catastrophically poor weather of 2024 began the winter before the growing season.

According to the cooperative La Chablisienne, the five months before budbreak from 15 October 2023 saw 50% more rain than usual (531mm versus the average 335mm).

Warm temperatures in March led to early budbreak, exposing the vines to damage from the frost that arrived between 18-25 April.

The vines sustained more significant damage, however, in the massive hailstorm that ravaged the region on 1 May, destroying or severely damaging more than one-third of Chablis’ vineyards.

Heavy rain continued through May and June, accompanied by an abrupt drop in temperature that interrupted flowering.

This interruption drew the process out to more than three weeks, causing coulure and devastating the yield.

The difficult flowering was capped by a second significant hailstorm on 29 June.

The mildew continued its invasion throughout July as the rain continued, and the month finished with another hailstorm on 31 July.

The weather was warm and dry in the first half of August, but rain reappeared in the second half of the month and periodically during the harvest.

A harvest you never want to see

Although some growers picked earlier to capitalise on the beneficent warmth of August, most waited until the middle of the third week of September.

Ripening was so uneven that the larger producers took two to three weeks to finish the task.

In the end, alcohol levels were low and acidity levels were moderate to high.

Yields varied by producer, but most reported losses of between 60% and 90% of a normal crop.

It is likely the case that, where more generous yields were reported, winemakers benefited from legally blending up to 15% of wine from the abundant 2023 vintage, as allowed under the VCI system (Volume Complémentaire Individuel).

Ten best-value wines of 2024

Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis

Domaine Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis Vieilles Vignes

Domaine Besson, Chablis

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis

Domaine de l’Enclos, Chablis

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Domaine

Famille Gueguen, Petit Chablis

La Chablisienne, Chablis 1er cru La Grande Cuvée

Domaine 47°N 3°E, Petit Chablis

Domaine Laurent Tribut, Chablis

A diversity of problems

Montée de Tonnerre, Chablis. (Image credit: Alamy / Per Karlsson – BKWine.com)

Although the effects of the weather were severe for everyone, various sectors were afflicted by different problems.

The hail devastated primarily the northern part of Chablis, particularly the premier cru Fourchaume on the right bank of the Serein and the area surrounding the village of La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne.

In contrast, the grand cru slopes immediately south of La Chapelle were less affected by hail but suffered more from mildew.

The same is true for the villages across the Serein on the left bank: less hail damage in the premier cru climats of Vaillons and Montmains, but more losses from mildew.

Isabelle Raveneau, of Domaine François Raveneau, describes the varied nature of the destruction: ‘We began to pick on 23 September and finished in a bit over five days. In some parcels, we were able to harvest less than 10hl/ha, and in Montmains, we did not harvest at all.

‘In Vaillons, the harvest was very small, but in Montée de Tonnerre, we managed 50% of a normal crop, and approximately one-third in Petit Chablis. The few grapes that were left were in a correct state of health, because the warm weather dried them before the harvest.

She concludes: ‘The impact on us was more due to the frost and hail than to the mildew. The sectors that were least affected included Les Forets and Montée de Tonnerre.’

Even within the contiguous seven climats on the grand cru slope, there was significant variation.

Vincent Dauvissat did not harvest any grapes in his Les Clos vineyard, but his vines in Les Preuses, less affected by mildew, yielded one of the delights of the vintage.

Didier Séguier from Domaine William Fèvre, which also has vines in Les Clos, says: ‘Normally we employ 160 pickers for 9-10 days of picking. In 2024, we hired 210 pickers for 3.5 days. We were only able to harvest 4hl/ha in Les Clos.’

However, he adapted his methods to the vintage and ultimately he notes: ‘In terms of quality, I am more or less in the camp of the optimists for this vintage.’

Producers to know

Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret

Château de Béru

Domaine de l’Enclos

Domaine Laurent Tribut

Domaine 47°N 3°E

Domaine Alain et Cyril Gautheron

Domaine Bessin-Tremblay

Domaine Les Pétioles

Domaine Goisot (Saint Bris)

Domaine Colinot (Irancy)

Five tips before you buy 2024 Chablis

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Chablis 2024 is a vintage that is worth buying for fans of the traditional style of taut, mineral-inflected Chablis.

Interested collectors should act quickly since quantities will be limited, but the top wines will age for years to come.

If money is no object, seek out Les Clos from Raveneau or Les Preuses from Dauvissat, both among the best wines of the vintage.

The 2024s will have more structure and punch than the wines from 2023. They are less substantial than those from 2022 but there is more minerality, and the wines will be more complete and well-rounded than those from 2021.

With a bit of luck, this is an opportunity to restock the delicious twin of the 2014 vintage which is just coming into maturity now.

Click here to see all notes on Chablis 2024

Chablis: Know your vintages

2023: A large harvest with a hot, sunny conclusion. The growing season was up and down, with abundant rain and cool temperatures, but the success of the year was decided by the hot, dry conditions that in the end delivered healthy grapes with moderate alcohol but slightly lower acidity. 4/5

2022: In retrospect, the warm, sunny conditions of 2022 edge out those of 2023. This is odd because August was too hot, causing the vines to shut down and preserve more acidity than 2023. This slightly superior freshness means the wines of 2022 will have a seductive balance and might well age better. 4.5/5

2021: The low yields and the difficult growing conditions were a constant challenge for growers. In the end, however, the lower yields and resulting concentration meant the top wines were thrillingly crisp, concentrated and powerful and will undoubtedly enjoy a long life in the cellar. 4/5

2020: A warm, easy year, the antithesis of the year that followed: the vines had everything – heat, sunshine, enough rain. The result is an approachable vintage with easy, moreish fruit aromas that will drink well young but may drop off sooner than the wines from 2019. 4/5

2019: Several heatwaves during this sunny year meant many initially felt that the wines lacked freshness. But time has shown that the wines’ intensity means they should hold well and have the structure to support their weight. 4.5/5

2018: A large harvest in a hot year produced wines with lots of body and warmth, but sometimes without the structure for long ageing. A very rewarding vintage to drink now, but few wines will survive decades in the cellar. 3/5

Charles’s top picks from Chablis 2024

Chablis wine region

Decanter Staff — Tue, 18 Nov 2025 16:21:32 +0000

Albert Bichot’s vineyards in Chablis

Chablis is the northernmost Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in Burgundy, and it is renowned for producing dry white wine made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. Its northern location gives it a cooler climate than most other Burgundy regions.

The appellation covers approximately 4,260 hectares, with 27 communes in total. That includes 40 vineyards classified as Premier Crus and seven Grand Crus.

Chardonnay grapes are believed to have been first planted in the area in the 12th century, by Cistercian monks from the Abbey of Pontigny, on the hillsides by the river Serein.

The soil from the area is characterised by Kimmeridigan limestone and chalk. The resultant wines are usually described as having steely or flinty minerality, with higher acidity than Chardonnay produced in warmer climes.

The wine is commonly produced as an unoaked Chardonnay style, although methods of production vary widely, with some producers favouring oak barrel maturation.

The French describe the appeal of Chablis as its goût de pierre à fusil, or gunflint quality, which can be preserved in some of the best wines for decades.

Dauvissat: The wizard of Chablis

Charles Curtis MW — Mon, 14 Jul 2025 07:00:14 +0000

A quick glance at Vincent Dauvissat, and one might be forgiven for suspecting that he is a wizard.

This impression is reinforced by his tall, thin frame, crown of white hair, and twinkling eyes.

But behind this elfin impression is one of the most thoughtful winemakers you may ever meet.

With notes and scores for 12 vintages of Domaine Vincent Dauvissat below

He does, in fact, work magic with his wines, coaxing each year a sublime range from his admirable holdings in Chablis.

His skill is remarkably consistent, through good years and less good, and the wines are at the top of the pyramid in Chablis and among the best white wines made anywhere.

His skill alone would merit admiration, but he is also among the most generous winemakers that I know, often pulling an old bottle from a bin in the corner to illustrate a point in our discussion.

In this way I have been offered over the years precious bottles that date as far back as 1989 that demonstrate the longevity of his lovely wines.

Estate history

The domaine was founded Vincent’s grandfather Robert in the 1920s. Robert was among the first to bottle his Chablis at the domaine in 1931.

His father René (brother-in-law to François Raveneau) began to work at the domaine in 1950, during the difficult years after the war when Chablis was at its nadir.

In the 19th century the greater region around Auxerre was roughly 40,000 hectares, shipping mostly ordinary wine to Paris for daily consumption.

This wide swathe of plantings collapsed after phylloxera, the Great Depression, and two World Wars. By 1955 the entire region was just 500 hectares.

It was a challenging time for Chablis, yet René Dauvissat was successful in building a powerhouse domaine that would endure for future generations.

Sales of Chablis worldwide started to take off after the 1960s, and plantings began to increase.

This was driven in part by more sophisticated frost control, disease prevention through modern pesticides, and fertilizers, which enabled the region to produce at high levels.

But it took a toll on the quality of the wines.

Vincent started to work with his father in 1976 and took over responsibility completely in 1979.

He eschewed the prevailing trends of his generation and has run his domaine using organic and biodynamic principals since 2002.

He is enough of an iconoclast, however, to eschew official certification as well.

He was joined full time in 2013 by his son Ghislain and his daughter Etiennette, although they had worked at the domaine for years already.

Organic instincts

‘Organic is a personal choice,’ he has told me more than once, ‘I don’t do it for anyone else,’ going on to add: ‘The [biodynamic] practices are followed with the utmost care.’

In the vineyard he uses his instincts: ‘The most important thing is not to listen to anyone.’

He sorts meticulously, so that even in a relatively healthy year such as 2023 he reported 15% losses due to mildew and sour rot.

In a seriously difficult year such as 2024, however, yields can be catastrophically small.

Because of his devotion to organic practices, he lost 90% of his production and did not harvest anything in his 1.4 hectares of Les Clos.

He said: ‘The heavier marl and clay soils soaked up the water and the mildew exploded.’

The year was also a complete loss in Petit Chablis and Montée de Tonnerre.

Gut instincts

Once the grapes are in the winery, he continues to take his own counsel.

‘I never look at the level of malic. That’s for oenologues,’ he declares.

Yet the balance of the resulting wines is exquisite.

Like many winemakers in Chablis, he was obliged to chaptalise in 2024.

But, he notes: ‘Once I brought it up 0.5 degrees, and then the balance was just like 2014.’

The grapes are pressed as whole bunches in a pneumatic press and vinified in enameled steel tanks (and a small percentage in new casks) before ageing in casks, both old and new.

No sulfur is added until after malolactic conversion when the wines are racked to tank before bottling.

The lie of the land

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat farms just over 12ha of vines. This includes a hectare of Petit Chablis, located on the Portlandian capstone of the grand cru slope.

There are just over 3ha of village-level Chablis spread across four parcels, including several that face premier cru Forêts facing north-west.

He blends this with a small amount of the premier cru Troëmes (part of the larger Beauroy cru). Both are located on the left bank of the Serein, in the heart of the Chablis appellation.

The most important holding among the premier crus is Forêts, which he spells ‘La Forest’ on the label.

He owns 3.7ha of vines here, spread over seven principal areas. Forêts is part of the larger umbrella appellation of Montmains, but at Dauvissat it is always singled out.

Forêts is a moderately steep part of the hill at its centre. Meanwhile, lieu-dit Montmains itself lies southwest of Forêts at a higher elevation.

It is much larger and is located at the northern edge of the hill as it slopes down toward the Serein and Butteaux (also a subdivision of Montmains).

North of Montmains is Vaillons, closer to the village of Chablis itself. As with the latter, Vaillons is composed of several different lieux-dits, and is the largest of the umbrella appellations on the left bank.

Dauvissat has 1.4ha of vines devoted to his Vaillons bottling, although only 1.1ha are currently in production.

These parcels are located in the lieux-dits of Chatains and Beugnons. The grapes are from 60-year-old vines in deeper marl soils.

Another subdivision of Vaillons is the lieu-dit Sécher, where Dauvissat has another 0.4ha of vines that were planted in 1972 (he spells the name ‘Séchet’).

He explains that the soils are thinner here and give a wine of great finesse and delicacy which is why he bottles these grapes separately.

Across the river

On the other side of the river Serein Dauvissat farms 0.30ha of Montée de Tonnerre in a single parcel planted in 1960 and partly replanted in 1972.

Although the Right Bank of the Serein is thought to produce more powerful, structured wines, Dauvissat explains: ‘We’re in the [lieu-dit] Côte de Brechain and not on the marl soils – we have more limestone pebbles, and a south-west exposition. We are not really in the heart of the appellation.’

The grand cru holdings of the domaine are the pride of the estate. There is a single 0.8ha block of Les Preuses planted in 1970.

It lies up the slope from the holdings of William Fèvre just below La Moutonne and the Vaudésir valley.

It boasts a south-facing exposition and marl soils that have more pebbles and less clay than the slopes of Les Clos.

The result is a wine that is perhaps less powerful but more elegant than Les Clos, and is consistently among my favourites from this domaine.

It is without question, however, Dauvissat’s 1.4ha of Les Clos that produce his most sought-after wine.

Most of the vines are at the top of the slope, interspersed with those owned by William Fèvre, but he also owns a parcel at mid-slope nearer the border with Blanchot.

The blend of these four parcels produces one of the greatest wines of Chablis.

The wines

The Dauvissat style is elegant and discreet. These are wines of great finesse, yet they do not lack in concentration.

The Petit Chablis is a fine introduction to the region, and the village bottling is a delicious representation of the classic racy left bank terroir.

Each of the four premier crus continue this style, but with a distinct expression of place, while the grand crus are the fullest expression of the house style.

The wines a contrast to the powerful wines produced by the other leader of the region, Domaine Raveneau.

The two styles are both delicious and both age well. Both rank at the highest level of white Burgundy.

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, however, will always remain a touchstone for those who appreciate wines of finesse, elegance, and precision.

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat:

Decanter Cellar: 20 must-try Chardonnay

Rupert Millar — Wed, 09 Apr 2025 09:12:25 +0000

Chardonnay can almost certainly lay claim to being the foremost white grape in the wine world.

The driving force behind white Burgundy and a key ingredient in Champagne, its fame as a grape and its capacity to thrive in all manner of environments has seen it spread across the globe.

Scroll down for 20 must-try Chardonnay

Unlike its parent, Pinot Noir, it’s an extraordinarily malleable grape, at home in both cool and warm climates.

Its character and profile changes accordingly too. In cooler regions it can be fine, mineral and nervy. In warmer climates, it becomes riper, fruit-filled and tropical.

It can also be worked in pretty much any way the winemaker wants, as its relatively neutral natural profile means it takes well to lees ageing, batonnage and oak regimes of all kinds.

And it’s an excellent base for sparkling wines as well.

Backlash and revival

Its global footprint, increasingly garish, mass-market iterations and a spate of premature oxidation in high-end white Burgundy led to a backlash against Chardonnay in the late 1980s through to the mid-2000s.

But, buoyed by a tide of smarter winemaking, it has bounced back stronger than ever before.

Fresh appreciation for white Burgundy, grower Champagne and beautifully-judged wines from Sonoma to Gisborne has put Chardonnay squarely back in the frame as a great white grape.

Let’s see where its key regions are today, along with a selection of wines that have grasped the attention of Decanter’s experts over the last 12 months.

Burgundy

La Roche Solutré (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay’s home is eastern France. Here, from Chablis to the Mâconnais, Chardonnay really shows off what it can do.

The cooler north provides a great base wine for Crémant de Bourgogne and climate change is making the whites of the Grand Auxerrois a tempting value proposition.

But pure, mineral Chablis is the great draw here, thrilling diners and wine lovers for generations.

Head further south and you find the big guns of the Côte d’Or, Montrachet and Meursault, among the rarest and expensive white wines in the world.

And then the southern vineyards of the Mâconnais, another fine hunting ground for excellent value white Burgundy.

You can find out a lot more about recent white Burgundy releases in our recent vintage reports on Chablis 2023 and Burgundy 2023.

Champagne and other French fizz

The leading white grape in Champagne, Chardonnay provides the acidic backbone, fresh and floral notes and mineral filigree in blends. When used on its own, cuvées are known as ‘blanc de blancs’.

These are among the most-celebrated single-variety Champagnes, and many houses tout their prowess in being able to expertly pull-off the tricky balancing act that comes with working with one grape.

As such, many prestige cuvée blanc de blancs tend to showcase the house’s portfolio of vineyards and how it can draw on grand and premier cru sites to make a rare and luxurious cuvée.

Beyond Champagne, Chardonnay is also widely used to make Crémant throughout the country, not least in Burgundy (mentioned above) but also the Jura and (to a lesser extent) the Loire, where it is, again, often paired with Pinot Noir.

Australia

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Chardonnay has carved out a particular home and character at the opposite end of the world to its homeland in Australia.

When the wave of New World wines came crashing over Europe in the late 80s/early 90s, Australian Chardonnay took the tastebuds of jaded British palates by storm.

Today, a more nuanced take on Chardonnay from regions such as Margaret River, Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsular have gained wide acclaim.

And Chardonnay is put to increasingly good work in Tasmania’s sparkling wines as well.

New Zealand

Sauvignon Blanc may be New Zealand’s best-known grape, but there was a time when Chardonnay might have become its calling card.

As it is, Chardonnay is grown throughout the country and with superb results. Given the range of climates in New Zealand, there is great variety in the styles of wines that are produced.

Like an inverted Burgundy, wines can be leaner and nervier in the cooler south and more loquacious and ripe in the warmer north.

The refinement and quality of New Zealand Chardonnay is one of the great insider wine tips.

The US

Steve Matthiasson of Matthiasson Wines in Napa Valley (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Along with Australia, it is in the US that Chardonnay quickly cemented itself as the country’s foremost white grape.

Up and down the length of California and in the wilds of Oregon, Chardonnay thrives in the diversity of climates offered by the American west coast.

It was here in the US, especially in central and southern California, that Chardonnay really took on its golden aura of popcorn butteriness robed in oak.

But, as North American editor Clive Pursehouse argued last year, don’t fall for the caricature of US Chardonnay all being like this.

As in other countries, refinement, elegance and sense of place are much more in evidence these days, and from the Dundee Hills to Santa Ynez Valley, US Chardonnay positively hums with delicious energy.

Several were given pride of place among the Top 50 US wines tasted by Decanter last year.

Click here for over 10,000 Chardonnay references from the Decanter database

South Africa

The South African wine revolution of the last few decades has been a revelation for Chardonnay in the country.

Like it parent, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay has found the southern part of the Cape, around Elgin and Walker Bay very much to its liking, and the beautiful balance of ripeness and freshness makes them lip-smacking treats.

Look to Hemel-en-Aarde for some truly standout examples.

Around the world

Catena Zapata’s Adrianna vineyard at Gualtallary, in the foothills of the Andes (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Chardonnay is very much a global grape. Due to its close relationship to Pinot Noir you can generally be assured that where’s one the other won’t be far behind.

In Europe, one place you might not expect it is Italy. Its chief role here is in the sparkling wines of Franciacorta and Trentodoc.

That said, there are some notable proponents of still Chardonnay elsewhere in the country including Antinori, Gaja and Löwengang.

In England, Chardonnay has once again spearheaded the charge in sparkling wines but ambitious projects such as Chapel Down’s Kit’s Coty have seen it become a real contender in English still wines as well.

Finally, there’s Chile and Argentina. With its huge climatic diversity, in high altitudes, by the sea and in the dry extremes of the Atacama Desert, Chile has been producing some truly excellent Chardonnay in recent years that really play to the grape’s strengths.

That said, the quality of Chardonnay in Argentina is not to be sniffed at by any means and remains hugely under-appreciated.

If you really wanted to wow a jaded wine lover in your life, a good Argentine Chardonnay could be the move…

Decanter Cellar: 20 must-try Chardonnay:

2023 Chablis Vintage Report on Decanter Premium

Charles Curtis MW — Mon, 09 Dec 2024 10:41:05 +0000

The warm, dry winter preceding the 2023 in Chablis heightened fears of frost damage among growers, but outside some minor episodes of frost on 28 March and 4 April, the spring passed without incident.

Flowering in early June occurred under ideal conditions, and a very large crop was set on the vines. June through August saw scattered rain and cooler temperature, but ripening accelerated with a September heatwave that caused alcohol to jump and acidity to drop.

The 2023 Chablis report devotes in-depth coverage to everything from Petit Chablis to village-level premier cru and grand cru Chablis wines. For the first time we also include coverage of the very best from the larger region of the Grand Auxerrois, including the crus of Irancy (for Pinot Noir), Saint-Bris (for Sauvignon Blanc), and Vézélay (for Chardonnay) as well as some outliers from the Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre appellation, northern reaches of Burgundy that can be particularly successful in recent warmer vintages.

Curtis tasted over 400 of the region’s top wines, from superstar growers such as Raveneau and Dauvissat to emerging stars such as Pattes Loup and Guillaume Michaut at Domaine 47°N 3°E. He presents his top 100 wines across the myriad styles of Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois, with an emphasis on the very best in quality and value.

The full report illuminates the ready-to-drink charm of the Petit Chablis and village Chablis appellations, where yield was generous and prices may remain moderate. Curtis also makes a deep dive into the differences between the premier crus on the Left Bank of the Serein and those on the Right, and looks in depth at the very top wines of the grand cru slope and its seven terroirs.

The year was not without pitfalls – producers who did not control yield risked dilution, and those who did not judge the harvest date well sometimes produced wines high in alcohol and low in acidity, faults this report will help the reader avoid. However, the top growers produced intense, ageworthy wines well worth purchasing en primeur to ensure supply.

The coverage on Decanter Premium is a detailed expansion of the report that appears in the magazine’s December 2024 issue.

Chablis 2023: Vintage report and best of the new wines

Charles Curtis MW — Mon, 09 Dec 2024 10:34:25 +0000

Chablis 2023 vintage rating:

4/5

Wine of the vintage

Domaine François Raveneau, Les Clos Grand Cru

As one grower in the region put it, ‘2023 was easy and not easy…’, and: ‘It was essential not to be tempted by the excess that nature had offered us.’

Indeed, generous yields raised fears of dilution throughout the Chablis region, though in the end, nature provided the raw material for careful growers to produce delicious results.

The prelude to the 2023 growing season in Chablis was warmer and drier than average until March. There were some minor incidents of frost on 28 March and 4 April, but the vines were not very advanced and the impact was minor.

Temperatures began to rise in early May and conditions were near perfect during flowering, which had peaked by 9 June, slightly ahead of the average. Because of the favourable conditions at flowering, a very large crop was set.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 35 of the best wines from the 2023 Chablis vintage

After flowering, rain showers scattered throughout Chablis from June through to the end of August, ending with a stormy period that brought some hail. The rainfall had two effects: it activated mildew, which remained an issue for some; and where rain was less prevalent, some of the vines suffered drought stress.

Hot and dry weather returned in early September, causing sugar levels to jump and acidity to plunge. Choosing the correct harvest date was imperative. Some growers began to pick on 7 September; others waited through that weekend and began on 11 September.

Yields overall were high. According to BIVB regional data, at more than 49,400hl combined, premier cru and grand cru Chablis volumes were up 16.6% compared to the 2018-2022 five-year average; Chablis and Petit Chablis combined were up 23.2%.

The biggest difference, however, was in the regional appellations, such as Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, where production was 48.1% higher than the average.

(Image credit: JP Map Graphics Ltd)

Chablis producers of note in 2023

Top producers

Domaine François Raveneau

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat

Domaine William Fèvre

Domaine Bessin-Tremblay

Samuel Billaud

Domaine Billaud-Simon

Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin

Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Domaine Laurent Tribut

Rising star/under-the-radar

Domaine Pattes Loup

Domaine 47°N 3°E

Top value

Domaine Laurent Tribut

La Chablisienne

Domaine des Peregrins

Strength on both sides

The quality implications of high yields are clear. If not controlled (by debudding early on in the season or cutting away excess bunches during ripening), the resulting wine might be dilute and lack concentration.

Grapes also need to be sorted rigorously at harvest to avoid the possibility of mildew-affected fruit bringing in ‘off’ aromas (a concern that comes with machine picking). However, if a grower is working with low-yielding old-vine material in a prime location, the opportunity for real quality is there.

Despite the warmth, the seven climats of the grand cru slope on the right (eastern) bank of the Serein river all distinguished themselves in 2023. Of the premiers crus on the right bank, Montée de Tonnerre and Vaulorent (part of Fourchaume) have given a predictably strong performance.

On the left bank, my favourite wines came from Montmains (especially Butteaux) and Vaillons, and as far afield as Beauroy and Côte de Jouan.

Often, the least successful wines were tied to warmer sites – while there were some excellent wines from warmer lieux-dits on the right bank such as Mont de Milieu and Les Fourneaux, there was also the potential for high-alcohol, low-acid wines that taste heavy and flat.

The best results are in line with recent sunny vintages (such as 2018–2020 and 2022), with ripe orchard and stone fruit, a lush texture, balanced acidity and plenty of extract.

Benoît Droin, Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin. (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Chablis: know your vintages

2022: In retrospect, the warm, sunny conditions of 2022 edge out those of 2023, oddly because August was too hot, causing the vines to shut down and preserve more acidity than 2023. This slightly superior freshness means the wines of 2022 will have a seductive balance and might well age better. 4.5/5

Want more 2023 Chablis?

Click here for more notes and scores from the 2023 Chablis vintage

Plenty of good wines

Anecdotally, there appears to be less in the way of mineral expression overall and very little of the racy acidity that was exhibited by the Chablis of yesteryear. However, when viewed in the context of modern Chablis wine, there were some very successful results.

Overall, the quality in 2023 was more variable than in 2022, with more potential issues in Chablis and Petit Chablis than with the premiers and grands crus. The best of the top wines, however, may age in a similar way to those of the legendary 1990 vintage (‘high volumes and superb quality’, according to chablis-wines.com).

The wines will be friendly and approachable when young; the best of them have the potential to age for decades.

In less-skilled hands, however, there’s a chance of watery wines that lack freshness and verve. Buying as high up the quality ladder as your purse allows, from growers you trust, will be a winning strategy (as is often the case).

According to respected producer Vincent Dauvissat: ‘2023 was a year of volume, although complicated by the almost tropical amount of water, which caused mildew to explode on the grapes, but they were saved by a warm, sunny autumn.

Despite a bit of botrytis and a bit of sour rot, the balance is like 2022, with slightly softer acidity, since it dropped off in the heat at the end of the season.’

Isabelle and Maxime Raveneau, Domaine François Raveneau. (Image credit: Leif Carlsson)

Names to know

Despite the potential dangers, 2023 qualifies as a vintage that’s eminently worth stocking up on: Petit Chablis for everyday quaffing and some good village wines, and premiers crus to drink now or pop in the cellar for five to 10 years. The best of the grands crus will age for years or even decades to come.

If money is no object, look for François Raveneau’s Grand Cru Les Clos and 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Dauvissat’s Grand Cru Les Preuses and 1er Cru Séchet, William Fèvre’s Grand Cru Les Clos, the 1er Cru Fourchaume La Pièce au Comte from Bessin-Tremblay, and the 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre from Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin.

Didier Séguier at Domaine William Fèvre summed up his thoughts: ‘I’m optimistic – 2023 was an interesting vintage with fantastic ageing potential, and one that presents the possibility of staying true to the Chablis style.’

Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois

Chablis is certainly the best-known wine from northern Burgundy, but it’s not alone. The Chablis appellation is surrounded by areas of vines that compose the larger Grand Auxerrois (Greater Auxerre) region, which also includes the crus of Vézelay, planted to Chardonnay; St-Bris, for Sauvignon Blanc; and Irancy, for Pinot Noir.

Different grape varieties are also planted in the regional appellation Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, including the obscure César for red wine (allowed as a blending grape in Irancy, up to 10%) and Sacy and Melon (as in the Muscadet grape) for white wines.

Some spectacular wines are being produced in the Grand Auxerrois, and I have chosen here the very best producers and five of the most interesting wines to ensure Decanter’s complete coverage of the wider region’s best wines.

Picks of the Grand Auxerrois:

Jean Hugues et Guilhem Goisot, Mont Morin, St-Bris 95pts

The tiny production from this special site features a field blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris (roughly 50/50), planted on a 45% slope (nearly impossible to work) at the western border of the appellation. The complex, almost pungent aroma features notes of grapefruit, gooseberry and lime, with a savoury, almost gamey edge that leads to a silky, explosively fresh feel on the palate. Although this is undeniably delicious now, it also has the substance to age. Drink 2024-2025

Domaine Sainte Madeleine, Les Saulniers, Vézelay 92pts

The pale lemon yellow colour belies the intensity of the bright, lemony fruit with notes of chalk and acacia flowers. The texture is silky, with crisp acidity and a finish that lingers invitingly. A delicious 100% Chardonnay that shows the potential of the appellation, the grapes are from a 1.1ha parcel in the lieu-dit Les Saulniers; they are gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented in stainless steel to ensure the purity of the fruit. Drink 2024-2030

Domaine Camu Frères, Cuvée des Ducs, Vézelay 91pts

Elegant and subtle, this 100% Chardonnay boasts discreet aromas of white nectarines and greengage plums with a bit of spice. The texture is light and fine, but there is enough persistence here to let this age. The grapes come from a 1ha plot at the base of the slope; they are gently pressed before fermentation and ageing in five-year-old casks. This 15ha domaine is the property of Baron Ladoucette, and the wines are made by Philippe Rossignol, the cellarmaster in Chablis. Drink 2024-2035

Jean Hugues et Guilhem Goisot, Les Mazelots, Irancy 94pts

More serious and concentrated than most, Goisot’s Les Mazelots boasts abundant mulberry and pomegranate aromas with hints of truffle and earth. The wine is tannic and firm, concentrated but not heavy. The vines are planted in a band of grey Kimmeridgian that delivers prominent minerality; a third of the vines are 80-110 years of age (the oldest in the appellation); a third are 40-80 years old and the rest are young vines. The combination is spectacular. 100% Pinot Noir. Drink 2028-2045

Fontaine Goby, Irancy 91pts

This delightful wine from Irancy sports a light ruby colour, but the aromas of currant and plum are fairly ripe and adorned with hints of violet and Ceylon tea. The texture is firm and lively, with impressive length for the category. The grapes are gently fermented on natural yeasts before ageing in cask for a year (15% new). There is enough substance here to warrant at least mid-term ageing. 100% Pinot Noir. Drink 2024-2035

Chablis 2023 great buys: Charles Curtis’ picks

Many retailers’ allocations for these wines are as yet unconfirmed – prices and stockists are given where available. No alcohol levels are shown, as production of many of the wines was incomplete at the time of writing.

Chablis wineries see ‘crazy’ climate and small 2024 harvest

Chris Mercer — Mon, 18 Nov 2024 05:00:48 +0000

Miserable weather during the growing season means that many Chablis winemakers saw a relatively small 2024 harvest.

Figures were still being finalised, but the overall Chablis 2024 harvest was likely to be less than half of the level seen in 2023, said Paul Espitalié, president of the Chablis Commission, which is part of the regional Bourgogne Wine Bureau (BIVB).

Frost, hail, mildew and above-average rainfall in spring and early summer all presented challenges for growers, said Espitalié, although he said producers were happy with the quality of grapes that survived the climate’s onslaught.

‘The wine is tasting good today with a lot of fruit. Of course, it’s more grapefruit and lemon flavours than ripe fruit. [It’s a] very fresh, clean style of Chablis wines.’

A BIVB report on the Chablis 2024 harvest said that yields varied considerably, sometimes within a single village.

While some growers harvested below 10 hectolitres per hectare, a few managed to pick a full crop and the region’s south-east was seemingly spared, it said.

Reserve stocks built up in the 2022 and 2023 vintages should help to cover shortfalls from the smaller 2024 crop, maintaining supplies of Chablis for consumers, according to Espitalié.

Climate change in Chablis

Yet, he said conditions in 2024 add to a sense of climate change throwing up more unpredictable weather patterns in Chablis.

‘It’s not only global warming; we are talking about [the] climate being crazy,’ he said.

‘Some years we will have drought and heatwaves, and the following year we will have two or three times more water.’

Chablis winemakers contended with drought in 2023. In the 2024 growing season, producers saw 50% more rainfall than normal up to the end of August.

‘This year, Chablis town was flooded twice. We had an amount of rain which was quite incredible,’ said Espitalié. He added that hailstorms hit the region’s vineyards in May, earlier in the year than the usual high-risk period.

Meanwhile, warmer weather in February and March can leave more young vine buds exposed to frost if temperatures plunge in April.

‘We need to find solutions’

Growers are trying to find solutions, especially to frost, said Espitalié. ‘If you visit Chablis today, you will see a real evolution.

‘You will find a lot of big propellers with heating systems to heat the air a little bit. You will find more and more vines equipped with heating wires to prevent the frost around the buds.’ Pruning vines later in the season can help to delay bud-burst in the following growth cycle, too.

There is work to explore rootstocks within the Chardonnay grape variety.

Earlier-ripening variants have historically been highly prized, ‘because we were very far north, and the challenge was to have enough sugar and ripe grapes’,’ said Espitalié. ‘Now, we are thinking differently.’

Earlier picking can also help to preserve freshness and acidity in the grapes, he said, quipping that winemakers have stopped taking holidays at the end of August.

Chablis is also helped by its terroir, however, he added. ‘We really have a specific terroir that gives minerality and saltiness to our wine.

‘Even in quite ripe years in the past, even if at the beginning we had very ripe wines…with a few years of ageing you will find this freshness and minerality.’

Espitalié said that Chablis winemakers were considering asking France’s appellation authority, INAO, for greater leeway in terms of how much wine can be set aside in producers’ reserves in larger vintages.

Some wineries had to throw away good stock from the 2023 harvest, he said. An ability to hold bigger reserves could help winemakers to manage stocks, and also help to maintain more stable pricing in export markets.

Broadening Chablis wines’ appeal in UK

Regarding consumer demand for Chablis, Espitalié said sales were showing a good dynamic globally, but he pointed to several years of declining export volumes to the UK.

While the UK remains a major destination for the region’s wines, exports fell 4.7% in the first seven months of 2024, versus the same period of 2023, to 1.67m bottles. By value, exports dropped 7.8% to €17.5m.

Economic factors are considered partly responsible for this, but a new marketing campaign set to launch next year will seek to broaden Chablis wines’ appeal by presenting them as wines for every occasion – a move that it’s hoped could also attract a younger generation of drinkers.

‘I think a big challenge for us is to try to do more communication for younger people,’ said Espitalié.

Rise in organics and tourism

In Chablis itself, research in 2022 found that almost quarter of estate managers and co-managers in Chablis were under the age of 40.

This has been linked to various innovations, including a rise in vineyards converting to organic in recent years, according to the BIVB.

More producers have also switched on to tourism opportunities, according to Espitalié, such as by opening shops in Chablis village. This has been accompanied by a growing restaurant scene, and Espitalié said tourist numbers were rising 20% year-on-year.

In 2023, 500,000 tourists visited Chablis and its surrounding villages, led by visitors from the Netherlands and the UK.

Collector’s Guide: White Burgundy

Chris Mercer — Thu, 07 Nov 2024 09:42:11 +0000

Fantastic Chardonnay can be found worldwide, but Burgundy remains the benchmark and a must-have for any serious white wine collector.

Some of the world’s greatest white wines are forged in the Côte d’Or, while the splendour of Chablis and rise of the Mâconnais attest to Burgundy’s rich variety of terroir-driven producers.

As with red Burgundy, a global clamour for small quantities of wines from the best vineyards and producers often translates to tight allocations.

Prices on the secondary market remain at historically high levels, although a recent fine-wine market downturn may present collectors with opportunities.

This guide focuses mainly on the white wines of the Côte d’Or, drawing on new expert commentary and exclusive reporting for Decanter Premium subscribers to highlight recent developments, ways to approach the region and its momentum on the fine wine market.

A downloadable PDF version of the White Burgundy Collector’s Guide is available here

White Burgundy in the Côte d’Or landscape

Burgundy’s patchwork quilt of vineyard ‘climats’ is a treasure trove for collectors, reflecting geological diversity and centuries of viticultural refinement.

Many prized white wines are made in the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of the famous Côte d’Or, around the villages (communes) of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet.

Others hail from the Corton hill, just north of Beaune itself, while some white wines are also produced in the Côte de Nuits, such as Domaine Comte George de Vogüé’s Musigny Blanc.

Producers typically make a variety of wines in a vineyard-based classification system led by grand cru sites, followed by a premier cru tier, village-denominated bottlings and regional ‘Bourgogne’ wines.

A Bourgogne Côte d’Or category was created in 2017, sitting above the general regional Bourgogne level.

Montrachet and family

Montrachet is a hallowed site for white wine, once tended by Cistercian monks and today spanning eight hectares shared between Puligny and Chassagne (where it’s known as ‘Le Montrachet’). Prices can range from several hundred to several thousand per bottle – of any currency of your choice.

The neighbouring grands crus using the Montrachet name are also highly regarded.

Charles Curtis MW, Decanter’s Burgundy correspondent, said of Domaine Leflaive’s Bâtard-Montrachet 2019: ‘Balance is always the hallmark of the Bâtard from Leflaive as the fresh minerality of the Puligny side plays against the luxurious ripe, almost tropical notes of the south-facing Chassagne side of the vineyard.’

Vineyards around Puligny-Montrachet. (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Meursault magic

Meursault has no grand cru, but its premier cru Perrières is often considered at this level.

Curtis recently tasted Domaine Roulot’s 2022-vintage Perrières (96 points) for Decanter Premium: ‘This is a breathtaking, complex wine, showing notes of lime peel to coconut water, passionfruit and mint, with a savoury, almost gamey undercurrent and a pronounced saline minerality,’ he said, adding that savvy collectors will wait at least a decade to uncork it.

Prominent white Burgundy producers

Domaine Coche-Dury is a leading name, and its village-level Meursault was the most searched-for white Burgundy on Wine-Searcher.com in September 2024.

Domaine Leflaive has five spots in the top 10. It is a revered name and pioneer of biodynamic farming – spearheaded by the late Anne-Claude Leflaive.

Her nephew, Brice de la Morandière, has continued her legacy.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Such lists can only ever scratch the surface of what Burgundy offers, but other key producers not highlighted in the ranking above include:

Domaine d’Auvenay – part of the Leroy stable
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Ramonet
Roulot
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Henri Boillot
William Fèvre (now in the DBR Lafite portfolio)
Billaud-Simon

More names to know

Curtis highlighted several more producers for collectors to consider, in addition to the well-known names cited above.

‘I think all [these producers] can be trusted throughout their range, if the exalted realms of grand cru and Meursault Perrières are out of reach.’

The ranges of négociant-producer houses are also worth exploring, such as Puligny-based Olivier Leflaive, plus also Louis Latour, Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, Bouchard Père & Fils and Faiveley.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Three developments to watch

Bouchard Père & Fils: New owner Artémis Domaines, the fine-wine group controlled by French billionaire François Pinault, plans to put more focus on prestigious wines, Artémis’ MD recently told La Revue du Vin de France.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) in Corton-Charlemagne: This vaunted producer released its third vintage (2021) of Corton-Charlemagne grand cru earlier in 2024, having leased 2.9ha from Bonneau du Martray – split between the En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne climats.

Domaine Pierre Vincent: Domaine Leflaive general manager Pierre Vincent is to leave at the end of 2024 to focus on his namesake winery, after acquiring Domaine des Terres de Velle with two friends. ‘A recent tasting of the inaugural vintages raised hopes of an exciting new domaine to follow,’ Curtis wrote for Decanter.

DRC Montrachet Grand Cru production

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

A snapshot of yields in the three most recently released vintages of DRC, Montrachet, sourced from the offer brochures of Corney & Barrow, exclusive UK agent for DRC.

2021 (released in 2024): 13.5 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha) | 102 cases (12x75cl)

2020: 40.8hl/ha | 295 cases

2019: 24hl/ha | 184 cases

Further back, severe frost in 2016 led to seven producers, including Leflaive and DRC, pooling grapes to make two barrels of Montrachet grand cru, named L’Exceptionnelle Vendanges des Sept Domaines.

Top white Burgundy vintages

Great winemakers can deliver sumptuous wines irrespective of vintage conditions, and Burgundy’s sheer size further impedes generalisation.

‘In Chablis, you’re closer to Troyes in Champagne than you are to Dijon, let alone Beaune, Chalon or Mâcon,’ wrote Decanter contributing editor Andrew Jefford in 2018.

Caveats aside, recent vintages represent a good run of form for quality. Decanter ratings show four stars (out of five) for white Burgundy in 2022, 2021, 2019 and 2018, rising to 4.5 stars in 2020.

Vineyard positioning can aid winemaking skill. In praising Bruno Colin’s Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Chaumées 2020 (93pts), Curtis noted the site’s east-facing aspect at the top of the slope, with thin, stony soils over limestone.

‘This is a great terroir for a hot year such as 2020,’ he wrote.

Five Decanter five-star vintages: 2014, 2002, 1995, 1989 and 1969.

Rollercoaster yields

Yields can vary significantly between vintages in Burgundy. ‘These sudden variations seem to have become more pronounced in recent years,’ said the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) earlier in 2024.

Hail, frost and mildew pose particular hazards. Climate change research has found extreme weather is becoming more common globally, while a France-based study suggested warmer winters can mean earlier growing seasons – potentially leaving more vine buds exposed to spring frost.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Buying the wines

Larger crops may improve collectors’ chances of securing certain wines, yet the most sought-after bottlings are often tightly allocated.

‘Sourcing top white Burgundy can be a challenge due to the quantities produced,’ said Curtis. ‘If you see something attractive, it’s important to jump in and commit.’

Will Hargrove, head of fine wine at UK merchant Corney & Barrow, the UK agent for Domaine Leflaive and DRC, said the merchant tries to walk a fine line: ‘It’s this age-old balance between supporting people who have supported us, and also embracing new customers.

‘We do tend to try and use the bigger vintages to welcome new people in. That’s something we want to do.’

He said Corney & Barrow planned to offer Domaine Leflaive 2023 wines en primeur from early December 2024.

Key dates

The 163rd Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction in November 2023. (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

November: The annual Hospices de Beaune auction is a major event in the calendar.

January: The traditional en primeur (futures) release period for many Burgundy wines. The relatively large 2023 vintage is next up. Timings vary, though, and some wines are released later.

Decanter’s Chablis 2023 Report: Published in December 2024

Decanter’s Burgundy 2023 Report: Published in January 2025

Debate over release prices

Rising release prices in recent years partly reflect higher costs for wineries, but have also caused debate, as noted by Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, in its Burgundy 2022 en primeur report earlier in 2024.

It said consumers still pounced on the highly regarded 2022-vintage wines, and most producers kept price rises to a minimum, but it also warned that challenging market conditions mean ‘the gap is widening between [producers’] release prices and what buyers are willing to pay’.

Hunting for value

Value is relative, of course. Liv-ex’s Burgundy 2022 report said Chablis has the lowest average prices in the grand cru tier.

More generally, strategies range from shopping further down a well-regarded producer’s range, looking to less- prominent areas – where some top producers also operate – and unearthing under-the-radar winemaking talent.

Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise or the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune / Nuits are geographic areas to consider. Corney & Barrow’s Hargrove cited single-vineyard wines from the Mâconnais to the south.

‘Those are certainly things I would push people towards,’ he advised.

In 2020, 22 ‘climats’ in the Mâconnais’ appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé gained premier cru status.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Buying wines on the secondary market

Good purchasing methods include merchants’ broking services, as well as digital trading platforms, such as Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade or Berry Bros & Rudd BBC, and major auction houses, including Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Bonhams, Zachys or iDealwine.

‘When buying wine on the secondary market, it is best to ask for photographs to check the colour (which should be commensurate with age),’ said Curtis, who is also founder of consultancy group WineAlpha and former head of wine for Christie’s in the Americas and Asia.

‘I avoid anything with signs of seepage, and whenever possible I purchase full cases in their original packaging (carton or wooden case).’

It’s important to check a wine’s ownership history, provenance and condition as much as possible before purchase. This can affect a wine’s cellaring potential or future value.

Reputable merchants and auction houses authenticate wines, but collectors should also be watchful for counterfeits. If the price looks too good to be true, then it probably is.

The premox issue

White Burgundy wines have had widely publicised challenges with premature oxidation (premox). This appeared particularly prevalent between 1995 and 2005, as Curtis wrote in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue.

‘Whites from Burgundy darkened and traded their fruit for caramel aromas far too early,’ he wrote. ‘From the mid-1990s, the scourge was frequent, if sporadic.’

The extent and causes of the issue have been much debated, but incidences of premox have since been greatly reduced, according to Curtis and several merchants.

‘Most of the top estates and the conscientious producers have reduced or eliminated this issue through a variety of methods, and in general I am much more sanguine about this now than I was 10 or even five years ago,’ Curtis said via email.

Still, it is something for collectors to be aware of, especially if looking to buy wines from those affected older vintages.

Trading focused on blue-chip producers

Expanding global demand for finite supplies of top Burgundy wines has been a key fine wine market narrative in the early 21st century.

Opinions differ on the size of the secondary market. Matthew O’Connell, CEO of the LiveTrade online trading platform at international merchant Bordeaux Index said a relatively small group of blue-chip Burgundy producers have a global following, but that liquidity falls away below this level.

He said there were some 10 white Burgundy producers in this top-tier category, compared to about 20 for red Burgundy.

White Burgundy’s secondary market performance

Several data sources suggest prices on some of the most prominent white Burgundy wines are significantly higher than five years ago.

The table below shows examples based on Wine-Searcher worldwide average retail prices, ex-tax.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Fine wine market hits choppy waters

Despite a wider rising trend, the average prices of Coche-Dury, DRC and Raveneau have dipped on Wine- Searcher versus October 2022.

There have been reports of subdued fine wine trading in general, with buyers appearing more cautious in a climate of higher interest rates and challenging macroeconomic conditions.

While the secondary market has a track record of long-term growth, prices have recently fallen back following a period of strong gains on some wines – especially on blue-chip Burgundy and Champagne.

Liv-ex’s Burgundy 150 index fell more steeply than its parent index, the Liv-ex 1000, over the two years to 30 September.

It has still risen further on a five-year basis, though.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

White Burgundy outperforming red

White wines in the Burgundy 150 index have outperformed reds since the start of 2022, according to Liv-ex.

After gains for both, from October 2022 to 31 August 2024, the Burgundy 150’s white index dropped around 13%, while reds dropped nearly 30%.

Online auction house iDealwine remarked on a similar trend. It said: ‘For over a decade now, scarcity and strong demand has protected fine Burgundy from market fluctuations.

‘In the post-Covid price softening that we have witnessed at auction, we can see that this time, white Burgundy has been largely immune where red has not (prices fell 35% last year for red, 15% for white).’

O’Connell added: ‘When the Burgundy market went up in 2018 and 2019, white Burgundy didn’t follow so much.

‘In the 2021 and 2022 market increase, some white Burgundy names massively outperformed everything.’

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Auction demand for white Burgundy

Charles Antin, global head of wine auctions at Zachys, said there is strong buyer demand for older vintages in the right circumstances.

‘I think while people shy away from some vintages of white Burgundy due to the infamous premox, these are still considered the greatest white wines in the world and, if there is confidence from the buying base about the condition of what is in the bottle, the bidding will be aggressive.’

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Domaine d’Auvernay leads the way

‘[Domaine] d’Auvenay is still far and away the most expensive white Burgundy we sell,’ said Antin. ‘Of the top 10 white Burgundy lots sold in 2024 [so far], eight are d’Auvenay.’

iDealwine said d’Auvenay constituted its top three white Burgundy lots of 2024 so far, based on hammer selling price:

• Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2005 (1x75cl) | €16,902

• Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 (1x75cl) | €10,266

• Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 (1x75cl) | €10,141

It was a similar story at Sotheby’s’ ‘Live in the Vines’ auction in Beaune in July 2024, featuring wines from collector Pierre Chen. Highlights included:

• Six bottles of d’Auvenay, Chevalier- Montrachet Grand Cru 2009 | sold for €106,250, including buyer’s premium |

(estimate: €85,000 – €130,000)

• Three bottles of d’Auvenay, Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru 2014 | sold for €50,000 (e: €40,000 – €60,000)

• Three bottles of DRC, Montrachet Grand Cru 2007 | sold for €47,500 (e: €19,000 – €24,000)

George Lacey, head of wine for Sotheby’s Asia, told Decanter shortly after the sale: ‘When you offer older vintages, in good condition, with exceptional provenance which are rare and not so frequently seen in the market, there’s clearly still great demand. That was really encouraging for us to see.’

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Investment: Weigh up the costs

Professional storage with temperature and humidity control can affect a wine’s future value or cellaring potential. There may also be fees associated with selling wines.

Check up-to-date prices, provenance and condition carefully and, if you’re interested in the investment side, seek professional advice.

Ups and downs

Changes to Liv-ex Market Price on white wines in the Burgundy 150 index. Two-year data is updated weekly and runs to 04/10/2024, but five-year data is updated monthly and runs to 30/09/24.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Wine investment: Six things to consider

1. Some of the most prominent fine wines on the secondary market have a track record of increasing in value over time, particularly as available supplies diminish, but nothing is guaranteed. The pool of investment-grade wines is also relatively small.

2. Professional storage in bond is considered important. A wine’s condition and provenance can affect value.

3. Wine investment is unregulated. Only buy wine from reputable sources, and check provenance and condition as carefully as possible before buying.

4. Factor in costs, such as for storage, and possible selling fees. Storage is often charged at a fixed annual rate.

5. Some auction houses have previously told Decanter that full cases tend to be more in-demand, although limited-production wines may be released or allocated in smaller quantities – such as three-bottle cases.

6. If unsure, always seek professional advice.

Report by Chris Mercer for Decanter Premium. A freelance journalist and former editor of Decanter.com, Chris has written about the global fine wine market for more than a decade

Click here to join Decanter Premium now and enjoy instant access to the latest Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur Collector’s guide, as well as past Collector’s Guide’s including, Left Bank Bordeaux, Napa and Piedmont and Rhône.

Disclaimer

Please note that this report has been published purely for informational purposes and does not constitute financial or investment advice. The report includes Wine-Searcher monthly global average retail prices in US$ to provide a consistent point of comparison, as well as data and opinion from other trade sources. All of this information is subject to change, and the prices and availability of wines cited will vary between countries, currencies and retailers. Decanter and the editorial team behind this report do not accept liability for the ongoing accuracy of its contents. Seek independent and professional advice where necessary and be aware that wine investment is unregulated in several markets. Please be aware that prices can go down as well as up.

A downloadable PDF version of the White Burgundy Collector’s Guide is available here

Domaine François Raveneau: Taking the pulse of Chablis’ greatest wine

Charles Curtis MW — Tue, 17 Sep 2024 09:46:50 +0000

Raveneau is one of Chablis’ most recognisable names and the top wines sell for several times more than their nearest competitor.

The global average retail price for Raveneau’s current vintage of Grand Cru Le Clos is nearly £1,700 per bottle; Valmur and Blanchot are £600-£700; the premiers crus average approximately £350, and even the village-level Chablis is often more than £250.

These prices represent roughly a three-fold increase in a decade. Not everyone has enjoyed the same recognition and growth.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for five Raveneau wines

History

The village of Chablis on the Serein river. (Image credit: Chris Stevenson / Alamy Stock Photo)

François Raveneau began to work in the family vineyard in 1948, the year he founded the domaine and married Andrée Dauvissat, the sister of another Chablis legend, René Dauvissat. Just after World War II, wine production in Chablis was at its nadir.

According to Rosemary George’s 2019 book The Wines of Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois, total production for the entire region was just under 11,000hl in 1948.

To make ends meet, the Raveneau family initially grew multiple crops. François did not focus solely on wine production until the 1960s when he began to bottle his wine at the domaine – the first of his family to do so. It is said that François’ father was trying to sell vineyards and that François was the first to add more.

François had two sons. Jean-Marie worked with his father from 1978; his brother Bernard trained further afield but returned to the domaine when his father retired in 1995. Bernard’s daughter, Isabelle, began to work alongside her father in the winery in 2010, and Jean-Marie’s son, Maxime, joined her in 2017.

My first visit to the domaine in 2012 was with Bernard; my first with Isabelle was in 2018. She and her cousin Maxime took over fully from their parents in 2020.

The vineyards are mainly the responsibility of Maxime; he and his team do everything by hand and prune short to keep yields low. Although yields here are modest, elsewhere they have exploded. According to the Burgundy regional body (BIVB), the average yield today is more than 280,000hl.

These increasing yields can partly be attributed to advances in vineyard technology and the warming climate, but also to the tenfold expansion of the plantable area, from just over 500ha after World War II to more than 5,000ha today.

The French regulatory body INAO (national institute of origin and quality) has also increased the number of premiers crus, although the creation of umbrella crus has simplified the situation for consumers. Today there are 17 umbrella crus that cover 40 smaller climats, which are themselves composed of more than 89 lieux-dits, not all of which can be mentioned on the label.

Vineyards

Today, the Raveneau family farms 10ha, split across the right and the left banks of the Serein river that flows through Chablis. Viticulture is of the highest quality, although the domaine is not certified organic.

Grands crus

The grands crus of Les Clos and Valmur. (Image credit: Per Karlsson – BKWine.com / Alamy Stock Photo)

The Raveneau reputation rests on the power and longevity of its grands crus, and many consider its greatest wine to be Grand Cru Les Clos. The domaine has three parcels of Les Clos totalling 0.5ha; the vines start mid-slope, facing due south, and climb to the top, near the woods. Isabelle relates that 25% of the vines were planted in 1963, 50% in 1976 and the final 25% in 1989.

Les Clos is often the most powerful of the grands crus, and Raveneau’s is no exception. This substantial wine ages very slowly – I have drunk 25-year-old bottles that seemed not to have evolved at all.

The Raveneau vines in Grand Cru Valmur, of which they own 0.75ha, were planted over 50 years ago on the steepest part of the southeast-facing slope (there are two sides to Valmur, one facing southeast and the other southwest). This has a more favourable exposition, known locally as the adroit. The soil is deeper here, and the sun comes later in the day.

The wine has perhaps less power but more delicacy and finesse than Les Clos.

The vines in Grand Cru Blanchot face east. The family owns 0.75ha at the top of the slope in a windy, well-ventilated location exposed to the morning sun. Two-thirds of the vines were planted in 1935, and the balance in 1970.

These vines look across the Vallée de Bréchain towards the premier cru of Montée de Tonnerre. The east-facing exposure and position high on the slope give this wine the most pronounced minerality and liveliest acidity of the domaine’s grands crus.

Premiers crus

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre is composed of four different sub-climats. A single-parcel wine can also be labelled with these smaller climats, but if blended, it can take the name of the umbrella climat.

At the top of the slope, there is Pied d’Aloup; at mid-slope, there is the lieu-dit of Montée de Tonnerre itself, and Chapelot (with or without an ‘s’) at the base of the slope, while the Côte de Bréchain is across the Vallée de Bréchain from Blanchot.

Montée de Tonnerre has a reputation for the most weight and power and for being closest to the grands crus in character, and this wine from Raveneau is a peerless example.

Raveneau’s 3.12ha of Montée de Tonnerre represent nearly a third of the domaine’s total property. Ten parcels are spread across Chapelot and Pied d’Aloup, half in each. Of the Chapelot vines, 1.1ha are very old, and in generous years, the domaine will bottle a portion of the wine from these vines separately under the Chapelot label.

In years with lower yields, however, it is all blended together and sold as Montée de Tonnerre.

Just outside the village of Chablis, on the other side of the Serein, lies the umbrella climat of Vaillons, which covers eight sub-climats. Vaillons is very large (more than 120ha), and its identity is less defined than some of the other premiers crus.

In the Raveneau cellar, I have found it to be supple and approachable but not lacking backbone or ageability. Raveneau has 0.5ha split among three parcels: two are in the lieu-dit Vaillons itself, and one is in the lieu-dit Sécher (sometimes spelt Séchet or Séchets). All three were planted in the 1970s.

To the south of Vaillons lies Premier Cru Montmains, which includes the sub-climats of Montmains proper, Butteaux and Forêt. Raveneau bottles all three. Montmains itself is the closest of these to the village, where the vineyard is relatively flat; Raveneau has 0.3ha here.

South of Montmains lies Forêt; the 0.67ha Raveneau parcel is near the base of the slope, sheltered from the wind, and is planted with young vines. Raveneau’s largest holding is 1.5ha in Butteaux; these vines are at the top of the slope, with dense Kimmeridgean clay soils and a cooler climate.

A portion of these vines date to the 1950s, the balance to the 1980s. My general impression is that Montmains can show more ripe pear and apple aromas, Forêt is a bit more concentrated and mineral, and Butteaux has a citrusy edge.

Village wines

In addition to the premiers crus, there are 1.1ha of village-level vines across two parcels. One is on the back side of Montmains (called locally l’envers), between Montmains and Vaillons; the other is at the base of the slope just past Premier Cru Forêt. For many years, Raveneau owned land here but did not bottle the village-level wine; the first vintage was in 2007.

The newest addition to the portfolio is 0.82ha of Petit Chablis, located above Grand Cru Vaudesir in clay soils with decomposed Portlandian pebbles. The first vintage of Petit Chablis was produced in 2014.

Winemaking

Cousins Maxime and Isabelle Raveneau. (Image credit: Leif Carlsson)

The wines are made, for the most part, as they always have been. The grapes are lightly crushed, slowly pressed and settled overnight before alcoholic and malolactic fermentations in tank with a moderate amount of lees. Once the malo is complete, the wines are moved to cask.

According to Isabelle, increasingly the wines are aged in 500-litre casks, a departure from her father’s days. For many years the domaine used the small 110-litre feuillette barrel, traditional to Chablis. This was a necessity of space in the original cellar, as the smaller barrels were more easily stored. Since the new cellar was built in 2013, however, space is less of an issue.

Although cask ageing is traditional at Raveneau, there is a distinct aversion to oaky flavours. Very little new wood is used; according to Isabelle, there are no more than six to 12 new casks in the entire cellar each year.

The combination of meticulous vineyard work, low yields, prime location and careful winemaking consistently delivers results that rank among the greatest white Burgundies. Despite the undisputed acclaim, the family and the domaine remain humble and down-to-earth. On one of my earlier visits (in 2013), my friend and I invited Bernard to lunch at l’Hostellerie des Clos, the hotel/restaurant down the street from the winery.

He joined us and graciously brought a bottle of wine – his 1978 Montée de Tonnerre, among the most fabulous bottles of Chablis I have ever enjoyed. This is one of the best ways to experience the wines of Raveneau – at table, in the region, with the local food.

The domaine’s strict standards means production is limited, and prices can be high. Fortunately, it is still possible to find a bottle of Raveneau’s village Chablis for less than €100 (£85) in a local restaurant, the premiers crus for less than €200 (£170), and the grand crus for less than €500 (£420), prices that are richly warranted to experience one of the masterpieces of Burgundy.

Where to drink Raveneau in Chablis

L’Hostellerie des Clos

18 Rue Jules Rathier

89800 Chablis, France

Phone: +33 3 86 42 10 63

Au Fil du Zinc

18 Rue des Moulins

89800 Chablis, France

Phone: +33 3 86 33 96 39

Chablis Wine Not

Rue des Moulins

89800 Chablis, France

Phone: +33 6 72 14 19 39

Charles Curtis MW’s top Raveneau wines

Chablis wineries counting cost of fierce hailstorm

Chris Mercer — Fri, 10 May 2024 04:00:27 +0000

A fierce hailstorm hit the Chablis region in northern Burgundy at the beginning of May, prompting concern about damage to vineyards.

Some producers told French media outlets that they had been severely impacted by deluges of icy hailstones on the night of 1 May.

Weather service Météo France said violent ‘supercell’ storms affected different parts of France and began in northern Burgundy, bringing heavy hail to certain areas, and particularly Chablis.

It said some hailstones were between 4cm and 5cm in diameter, which would make them similar in size to a table tennis ball.

While the full extent of vineyard damage was still unclear, there were reports of hail slicing through leaves and damaging vine plants, which are still in the relatively early stages of the 2024 growing season.

Catherine Poitout, of L&C Poitout, told France 3 that the area around Beine was completely white after being carpeted with hailstones. ‘It could have been the middle of winter, in the mountains,’ she said.

Burgundy’s regional wine council, the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne (BIVB), said on X – formerly Twitter – that it stood in solidarity with wine growers affected.

A BIVB spokesperson said that some areas were hit harder than others. Early reports suggested Chablis grand cru climats Vaumur, Vaudésir, Moutonne and Preuses were among the worst-hit sites, according to the BIVB.

Elsewhere, communes most affected were:

Fontenay-près-Chablis
La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne
Villy
Maligny
Beine
Lignorelles

The BIVB spokesperson said that around one sixth of Chablis vineyards were thought to have been ‘severely hit but not completely destroyed’, adding damage may not be as bad as first feared in certain places.

Damage was still being assessed and the BIVB said it was working on a more complete report of the situation.

Christian Moreau, of Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, told Decanter that the Chablis appellation covers 5,866 hectares (ha) and that around 500ha may have lost between 20% and 30% of the potential 2024 crop, while other areas saw no damage at all.

On top of that, other vineyards may have sustained damage up to 100%, he said, again commenting on the picture across the appellation as a whole. But, he added the situation should become clearer in the next couple of weeks.

‘Now we just need some warm weather,’ he said.

French agriculture minister Marc Fesneau offered his support to Chablis winemakers, adding that the government would look into ways of supporting growers.

Hailstorms have affected winemakers in Burgundy several times in the past, and in other regions around the world, too. Their ferocious nature means that significant damage can be caused in a matter of minutes.

Around 12 months ago, hail caused concern in Provence as storms swept through the southern French region.

Thieves hit Chablis winery, stealing more than 1,000 bottles

Chris Mercer — Wed, 20 Mar 2024 08:01:46 +0000

Burglars targeted Domaine du Château de Viviers earlier this month and escaped with more than 150 six-bottle cases of its Chablis wines from the 2022 vintage.

Using the cover of darkness, they also took 225 magnums (150cl bottles) from the 2020 and 2021 vintages.

Total ‘damage’ was estimated at more than €50,000 (£42,700), said Arnould Lefébure, manager and owner of Domaine du Château de Viviers, which works biodynamically and organically.

‘This is a big shock for my wife and me, because it represents a lot of wine,’ Lefébure said. The winery made around 21,000 bottles in 2022, but only produced 1,500 bottles in 2021, including 100 magnums, due to frost damage during the growing season.

An example photo of one of the magnums, Côta Grand Claude 2020, including the distinctive blue wax capsule used across the winery’s wines. Photo (Image credit: Arnould Lefébure / Domaine du Château de Viviers)

Police were investigating the burglary, which took place between around 1am and 4am on the night from the 4 to 5 March.

It is the latest example of wine being targeted by thieves, and the burglars appeared to demonstrate a high level of organisation.

Lefébure said, ‘They did the robbery with a lot of professionalism. They knew what they were doing, because I calculate that it’s more than three tonnes of wine. You cannot just put it in a small car, you have to use a real truck. And they had to put it in by hand because there was no other way.’

The magnums, in particular, would not have been easy to move, he said. ‘All of them are in wooden cases and you cannot carry more than two cases by hand because they are quite heavy, they are almost four kilos.

‘To move 225 magnums like this, which were in separate wooden cases, probably they had to be at least four, five or six [people] to do that. So they were very well organised. We are discreet, we don’t have advertising outside.’

Wines stolen in the burglary had been awaiting shipment to China.

They included three main cuvées from the 2022 vintage – Côta Grand Claude, Sous les Plantes and Cuvée B&B – plus magnums of Côta Grand Claude 2020 and Poseidon 2021.

Lefébure said he currently has little hope of finding the stolen wines, but he added that the bottles have certain stand-out features, such as hand-made blue wax capsules and distinctive labels.

‘So I may have some chance at one time to find people selling my wine somewhere.’

He appealed to anyone with any information to get in touch with him at Domaine du Château de Viviers by phone or email. He added that he was confident of being able to identify the bottles from a photo.

Lefébure, an oceanographer and cofounder of non-profit organisation GoodPlanet Belgium, took over his family estate in 2019 and assumed direct control of the Domaine’s wine operations, which had previously been managed by Maison Albert Bichot.

Alongside a switch to organics and biodynamics, he also launched a vine sponsorship scheme, which he said has around 400 sponsors.

There has been a vineyard on the estate’s grounds since the 13th century, with vines thought to have been first planted by Cistercian monks of Pontigny Abbey.

Chablis 2022

Decanter Staff — Mon, 11 Dec 2023 12:38:15 +0000

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

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Read in-depth expert analysis by Andy Howard MW plus see more than 350 wine tasting notes and scores from the Chablis 2022 vintage.

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

It’s a ‘very fine vintage’, says a delighted Andy Howard MW...

Andy Howard MW December 6, 2023

CHABLIS 2022 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 108 wines all with 93 points or above.

SEE WINES

GRAND CRU CHABLIS 2022 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 52 wines all with 90 points or above.

SEE WINES

PREMIER CRU CHABLIS 2022 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 125 wines all with 90 points or above.

SEE WINES

APPELLATION OVERVIEWS

Petit Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

The best Petit Chablis 2022 wines tasted...

PREMIUM

AOP Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

The best AOP Chablis 2022 wines tasted...

PREMIUM

Grand Cru Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

The best Grand Cru Chablis 2022 wines tasted...

PREMIUM

Premier Cru Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

The best Premier Cru Chablis 2022 wines tasted...

PREMIUM

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW's top Chablis 2021 recommendations...

Andy Howard MW November 28, 2022

Petit Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 11 Dec 2023 11:49:31 +0000

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2022 score table – notes for the 108 wines scoring 93 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2022 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2022 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis

Petit Chablis 2022

Size: 1,257 hectares

A relatively recent appellation, Petit Chablis was created in 1944, and many of the vines are younger than those seen in AP Chablis, but it is a fine introduction to the crisp, fresh style of Chablis.

Vineyards are located at higher altitudes closer to the plateau. A key difference with Chablis is that Petit Chablis vines are nearly always planted on harder Portlandian bedrock, reducing warmth and direct exposure to the sun. Petit Chablis retains the drive and purity of Chablis but in a more accessible, less complex way. The classic mineral character associated with Chablis is usually more muted with Petit Chablis.

2022 vintage

Many producers have crafted fine Petit Chablis in 2022 with an appealing combination of ripe stone fruit and bright acidity. Most wines are to enjoy over the next couple of years but some of the top domaines (Raveneau, William Fèvre, Vincent Dauvissat, Samuel Billaud) have made Petit Chablis that will last.

Top-scoring Petit Chablis 2022

The wines below all scored 90 points or above.

Chablis 2021: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Burgundy 2022: What to expect

AOP Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Sun, 10 Dec 2023 11:07:27 +0000

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2022 score table – notes for the 108 wines scoring 93 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2022 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2022 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | Petit Chablis

AOP Chablis 2022

Size: 3,716 hectares

AOP Chablis accounts for 65% of all Chablis production. Geology and climate are the main drivers in shaping the precise, distinctive style of Chablis – one that producers around the world continue to try and emulate.

Kimmeridgian bedrock is the key factor – deposited over 150 million years ago during the Upper Jurassic period. The limestone/clay marl soils contain very high densities of marine fossil deposits which, combined with a cooler, continental climate, encourage the distinctive style of Chablis – crisp acidity, mineral notes with restrained fruit ripeness.

2022 vintage

In 2022, the grapes were healthy and although the hot, dry summer encouraged additional stone fruit flavours, there is plenty of concentration and acidity to balance. Most Chablis is fermented and matured in steel tanks but a few more producers used a touch of oak in 2022. Where sensitively done, this has added even more complexity.

Top-scoring AOP Chablis 2022

The below wines all scored 92 points or above.

Chablis 2021: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Burgundy 2022: What to expect

Premier Cru Chablis 2022 score table

Decanter Staff — Fri, 08 Dec 2023 12:04:51 +0000

After tasting almost 400 Chablis 2022 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 125 Chablis Premier Cru wines all with 90 points or above.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. Fevre have 3.65ha of Vaulorent. Situated on the grand cru hill rather than the Fourchaume slope, the soils here are characterised by lots of Kimmeridgian marl. Much tighter and tenser than Fevre's Montée de Tonnerre with less overt minerality, but there's lots of energy here, powerful and precise and compensates with concentration and density more akin to Chablis Grand Cru. GIve this five years and it will be stunning. The Côte Bouguerots also scored 96 points.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	A benchmark Montée de Tonnerre and one of Ravenau's most famous wines. The domaine has 3.1ha in total, made up of a blend of 10 different plots within Chapelot and Pied d'Aloup, with vines ageing from 10-60 years. Distinct notes of crisp green apple, cool on the nose and palate with great freshness. Impressive stony, mineral characters support the concentration. A profound rendition of Montée de Tonnerre where elegance meets power. For long-term ageing.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level. There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, along with great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully. Manager Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	95	Nathalie, Gilles (and now daughter Julie) run this high-quality domaine in Fontenay. WIth 2.2ha of Vaulorent, this is aged for a minimum of 12 months on fine lees with 20% matured in oak. Very good weight and concentration, with bright flavours of stone fruit, combined with zesty citrus acidity and the power expected from this top site. Very pure, even though a tank sample, this has the power to age beautifully for up to a decade. Great example of Vaulorent.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	TOP-SCORING WINE. Dauvissat's Montée de Tonnerre comes from Bréchin, and exhibits a dramatic, forceful style of this premier cru. Fascinating to compare with Raveneaus's iteration from Chapelot/Pied d'Aloup. Ripe, rich stone fruit is balanced by notable acidity and a stony, mineral edge. Spice notes add an extra level of interest. Super-classy and with a very long future ahead.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	A stunning example, with finesse allied to power. Real tension and energy here. Will be approachable quite young, but really should be aged for over five years for the best result. Fèvre has 2.24ha within Montée de Tonnerre. Plots are located in Pied d'Aloup (facing east) with profound Kimmeridgian soils bringing freshness, Chapelot facing south on deep soil adding richness, and Côte de Brechain facing west on top of the hill with the oldest plots dating back to 1936.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2022	95	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. A special bottling for Samuel Billaud, from vines over 90 years old. A vineyard marked by a high proportion of stones and old rootstock. Billaud says his Sechet has a particular character and. although it ages as well as Montée de Tonnerre it will finish in a different place. Only matured in steel tank for 18 months on lees with one racking. Really very classy and long. A great combination of pear fruit, touch of sunny peach on the palate with abundant minerality to finish.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	94	Billaud-Simon have plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in Pied d'Aloup (87 years). Winemaker Olivier Bailly normally only uses tanks for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel. Very pure and crystalline on the nose and palate. Real drive and energy with just the vaguest hint of the wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	94	Very pure and crystalline on both nose and palate. Real drive and energy, just the vaguest hint of wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example. Billaud-Simon has plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in the Pied d'Aloup climat which reach 87 years old. Olivier Bailly normally only uses tank for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	94	A profound, deep character evident on the nose. Weighty, powerful palate with oak evident in the background and a creamy texture. Notes of spice and a touch of orange box. Very crisp and fresh on the finish. This will age into a very fine premier cru. Vines on average over 50 years old.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	94	Jean-Marc Brocard is one of the most influential producers in Chablis, and a leader in organic (60ha) and biodynamic (40ha) production. Vaulorent is situated next to Grand Cru Les Preuses and shares many characteristics. Restraint and elegance are combined with force, persistence and purity. Plenty of minerality and a salty, iodine note on the finish. A high-quality example of Vaulorent with plenty of ageing potential.
Domaine Laroche, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	94	Very restrained on the nose at the moment but there is clearly lots of purity and drive here. On the palate, this Fourchaume has great acidity and concentration, aided by the old-vines used for the cuvée. Very precise and delineated on the finish. Has the concentration to age beautifully for five-plus years.
Domaine Louis Michel, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	94	Restrained and with notable concentration, this is an intense premier cru with great potential. Notes of peach fruit cut with zesty lime citrus. Very fine. From 68-year-old vines on very dense, white clay soils which are like concrete when dry, heavy when wet.
Domaine Pinson Frerès	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	94	TOP VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. This Pinson Freres cuvée comes from south-east facing vines which are 60 years old. Floral notes combine with good ripeness of stone fruit on the palate and freshened up by lovely acidity. 10% of the blend was matured in new oak. This shows Monts de Milieu at its best. Plenty of mineral notes also add extra complexity to the whole. A fine premier cru which has power but in a refined, elegant package.
Domaine Roy	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	94	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. A cool, fresh and lively Fourchaume yet the brisk acidity provides a great counterfoil for some succulent, juicy and ripe fruit on the palate. Yet there is no doubting this is of Chablis origin with the focus and intensity on the palate. This should have a long drinking window and is a very classy example marrying the warmth of 2022 and the density of the premier cru.
Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, Vieille Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)	2022	94	A very weighty old-vine l'Homme Mort from a parcel planted in 1973. Hand-harvested and fermented in 500l barrels before blending and a further 10 months ageing in barrel. Certainly not everyone's idea of a 'classic' Chablis Premier Cru but this is beautifully done and a very classy wine. Will be even better once the wood has fully integrated.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	94	Vaulorent is the opposite in style to Fourchaume for Droin, with soils only 10cm thick. This comes through on the palate with its pronounced mineral character. Shy and introverted at the moment, this is undoubtedly a fine wine which will need quite a bit of time to come round. Very crisp apple fruit flavours and a flinty finish.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	94	A very fine example of Montée de Tonnerre. Ripeness of fruit combined with vibrant acidity, it's a fine balance between the power and minerality of Montée de Tonnerre and the ripeness of this particular site. A high-quality introduction to the benefits of biodynamic winemaking.
Roland Lavantureux	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2022	94	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Brothers Arnaud and David have been making exciting, intriguing wines at the family domaine. With 0.95ha, their Vau de Vey comes from vines with an average age of 35 years. A high-quality example from this premier cru which has distinct, cooler characters. Plenty of power and complexity on the nose and palate. A touch of oak evident but just needs a bit of time. Rich and luscious on the palate, cut with vibrant citrus acidity and a long, pure finish. A very fine example.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	94	A really impressive Mont de Milieu from Samuel Billaud, produced from his own grapes. 80% in tank with 20% matured in barrels for a year, before a further year in tank after blending. A high-quality, right-bank premier cru. Very stony soils with old-vines and low-yields around 35h/ha. A denser hue than some. Very crisp acidity, lovely texture of apple and a touch of stone fruit with plenty of acidity and pronounced salinity to finish.
Samuel Billaud, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	94	Produced from vines averaging 60 years old, this shows the typical Vaillons perfume with notes of white flowers. Very good drive and crispness on the palate. Complex and long aftertaste. A top quality example of Vaillons, with the style of a real thoroughbred.
Vincent Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	94	A lovely example of Vaillons from Vincent Dampt. Bright and floral, with very appealing notes of white flowers on the nose, combined with white peach on the palate and a distinctive, salty finish. Fine, concentrated and long. High quality.
Alain Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	93	Appealing and fresh, with an intriguing whiff of white pepper (à la Grüner Veltliner). Plenty of weight here and very nice purity. A rather different take, would be great to enjoy with food. Crisp, zesty finish.
Charlène & Laurent Pinson	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Very aristocratic and elegant example of the cru. Not the richest in terms of fruit weight, yet this has great finesse on the palate with stone notes allied to bright citrus acidity on the finish. Very long in flavour. Classy and lots of ageing potential.
Charly Nicolle, Ante MCMLXXX	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	93	Plenty of warmth on the palate, which displays depth and concentration of fruit. There is an intriguing dash of white pepper then brisk acidity to finish. Highly appealing and classy example from this less well-known premier cru. Produced from vines planted between 1965 and 1975. Charly Nicolle runs this exciting domaine in Fleys, and is a young, dynamic Chablis producer to watch.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	93	There is an excellent balance between rich, honeyed notes and very crisp, clean acidity. Stony edge to the finish. This is approachable now but really needs several years. From four parcels, part of the blend is matured in barrel, the rest in tank. Will be bottled in January 2024.
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2022	93	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Another fine premier cru from Domaine des Malandes in 2022. Vines were planted in 1980 by the domaine on the steep slopes of Vau de Vey, overlooking Beine. Partially aged in oak barrels, this adds an extra dimension to the concentrated palate. A fine example with plenty of acidity to balance the ripeness of fruit. Should age very well.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Distinctive, creamy, almost lactic character on the nose. An intriguing Montmains but, at the moment, the fruit is a bit behind the acidity. Will need time. Lovely purity, not a blockbuster, but there is plenty of sunny ripeness. Located on the top of Montmains, with vines lying on thin soils over the bedrock in a windy area.
Domaine Gérard Tremblay	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	TOP VALUE. Gerard Tremblay and his wife Hélène own this 37ha domaine. Cool notes on the nose and palate - just a hint of lanolin and some green apple characters. Plenty of concentration on the palate though with acidity and a fine stony finish adding lots of drive and complexity. A classy and distinctive Fourchaume.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Plenty of density evident. A fine combination with concentration, a touch of smoke and richess on the palate, cut with direct acidity. Sunny and ripe yet remains fresh and focused. Will appeal when still relatively young but has the ability to age well.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Shows richness and ripeness on the palate, countered by pretty strident acidity. Not quite at its best at the moment and likely needs 12 months in bottle. Should then open out and be a fine example.
Domaine Laroche, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	Very precise Vaillons with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the palate, balanced by a fine line of zesty lime acidity. Just a hint of lees ageing/touch of oak here? All in all, a very classy, refined and long-living example of this premier cru.
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2022	93	Domaine Long-Depaquit is the Chablis arm of the Bichot family. Vaucoupin is one of their signatures and in 2022 it shows a great combination of sun-ripened peach fruit on the palate, balanced by zesty acidity and a hint of white pepper. Lovely purity here. Manages to be both powerful and elegant at the same time. Already drinking nicely, this has the concentration to age very well.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2022	93	Tight and precise on the palate, this will really benefit from additional time in bottle. Flint allied to peach underneath. Bright, vibrant acidity, give this at least 12 months. In Forêts, the bedrock is only 1m below the surface, with much rockier soils.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	93	Michel notes that his plot of Vaulorent lies on relatively thick clay soils; certainly plenty of force and substance is in evidence. A very complete example of this top premier cru, with excellent acidity, crispness and tension. Plenty of concentration and ageing potential. A marked flinty edge to finish.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	93	Plenty of concentration and class from this top, right bank site. Fleshy peach on the palate, there is a line of acidity to keep everything on track and a lovely mineral edge to finish. Suspect the final bottled wine will be extremely good. Tank sample.
Domaine Pinson Freres	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2022	93	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Dating back to 1640, Pinson Freres (now with Laurent's daughter Charlene in charge) is producing exciting and dynamic Chablis. Plenty of appeal with the ripe, pure stone-fruit offset by crisp lime/lemon acidity. Finesse and elegance on the palate and a nice stony edge on the finish. A fine example of Forêts. Could be enjoyed now but has the concentration to age.
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	I'd love to be a fly on the wall when the Dampt family get to compare wines. This has a bit of extra weight on the palate and a bit more roundness than brother Vincent's Vaillons. Chewy and with plenty of depth, this will age very well.
Domaine Séguinon-Bordet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Jean-François Bordet is the dynamic owner of this Maligny property. The estate's Fourchaume is always on point and this is true in 2022. Cool, restrained, youthful nose. Plenty of drive on the palate, but this will need up to 12 months to really open up. Lots of potential, though, with notes of white flowers, zesty acidity and a very appealing mineral edge to finish. Lovely.
Domaine Servin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	A very crisp, clean and fresh example of Vaillons, with the sunny exposition bringing ripeness of pear and white peach fruit, together with attractive floral notes, all balanced by a fine line of acidity. Classy. The Servin family have been vignerons in the area since 1654.
Domaine Vincent Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2022	93	TOP-VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Vincent Dampt (grandson of Jean Defaix) trained in Beaune and the Jura before spells with Olivier Leflaive and in Marlborough. A typical example of Côte de Léchet, from old vines in Milly. This has weight on the palate with lots of generosity and purity and cut precisely with a fine line of lemon/lime acidity. Very finely poised and an impressive advert for this premier cru.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru )	2022	93	Plenty of sweetness to the fruit, helped by the southwest exposure of the site. The vines lie on colder soils which, Vincent explains, warm up rapidly. Different colours of clay are found here. Should develop very nicely in bottle.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2022	93	Showing a bit more richness at the moment, with wood character coming through. Thin 30cm soils above the limestone bedrock contribute to the finesse. Crisp citrus acidity, very much a thoroughbred but needs time.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	A very precise, high-quality example, with weight and ripeness on the palate coming from vines which are planted on very thick soils over Marne bedrock. Touch of bitterness on the finish. Attractive, forward and floral Vaillons.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it's deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats.
Domaine William Fèvre, Les Lys	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	With its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.
Domaine Yvon et Laurent Vocoret	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Bottled after nine months ageing on lees, this has a fine balance between ripe stone fruit on the palate and that attack of acidity and stony notes which keeps everything fresh. A complex Fourchaume that is already quite open and can be enjoyed now. The Vocoret family trace their Chablis roots back to 1713. They have 1.3ha of Fourchaume with the vines averaging 40 years of age.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Although these a rich, deep soils, Droin says they retain a lot of seashell character. Lively and fresh on the palate, you can feel the cool terroir combined with warm, ripe fruit. Very classy and will age beautifully. Benoit Droin explains that it is the argile-bleu (blue clay) found here which adds extra volume.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Lovely fruit quality; weighty, ripe and powerful but balanced with citrus freshness. A little more approachable than Vaulorent for the moment. Blue and white clay adds extra depth.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Green tinge in the glass, touch of smokiness on the palate. Very fresh and precise. Lovely purity here with the edge of oak coming through.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Appealing already, warm and with a sunny disposition on the palate, there is plenty of driving acidity to balance. Billaud explains that the white clay gives more power. Plenty of tension here. Will age. Not at all overripe. A fine example of Montmains with the vines averaging 35 years old. No barrels.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Cool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre.
Alain Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)	2022	92	Bright, fresh and crisp example of L'Homme Mort. Doesn't have the density of some, but there is a lot of finesse here. Very nice acidity and mineral notes on the finish. Will develop well with another 12 months in bottle. The 25ha Gautheron estate, based in Fleys, is now run by the fifth generation of the family.
Alain Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	92	Cool, restrained nose. Typical Mont de Milieu, with plenty of peachy ripe fruit, freshened by crisp citrus acidity and a mineral edge to finish. Alain Gautheron is based in Fleys.
Charly Nicolle	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	92	Appealing, rounded and concentrated, with a note of flint on both nose and palate. Plenty of fresh acidity to finish. Lots to enjoy.
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2022	92	A fine example, with mineral notes adding drive on the palate, together with zesty citrus delivering freshness. Shows a creamy character from the lees ageing which adds extra complexity.
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Les Lys)	2022	92	As expected from this north-facing site, there is plenty of acidity here, but it is beautifully balanced by ripe fruit characters. A very fine premier cru which has concentration, finesse and purity, as well as the trademark acidity and mineral notes. Already drinking well, this will keep for at least four years.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	92	Although a 'solar' area, the soils here are shallower than much of Fourchaume. More concentration and weight evident, with notable smoky notes. Will develop very well but needs time. Lots of acidity. Big structure, small production.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	Slightly deeper in colour, with extra weight and ripeness from the well-exposed Vaillons site. This is very well balanced by plenty of brisk acidity. Lots of density here, and concentration for longer ageing. A distinctive style of Vaillons but one that will have wide appeal.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Vosgros)	2022	92	Fine balance on the palate, with generous fruit concentration supported by a hint of smoky reduction, together with mineral notes and crisp citrus acidity. Quite a delicate Vosgros initially, but there is plenty of power underneath. Will age well. Gueguen's Vosgros lies on a 1ha site in a southwest-facing amphitheatre close to the village of Chichée.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	92	A lovely, weighty example, with a combination of plenty of acidity, concentration and length on the palate that balances the ripeness of fruit. Spicy notes on the finish.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2022	92	The direct exposition of Gueguen's vines has resulted in a Vaucopins with a very sunny character that still retains lots of precision. Clean as a whistle on the palate. Nice concentration and should develop well. A fine example of Vaucoupins.
Domaine Courtault Michelet	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	92	Plenty of sun-drenched fruit on the palate which is balanced by some vibrant acidity and mineral characters on the finish. A very classy example of Mont de Milieu, with concentration and depth allied to purity of fruit flavour, and great freshness to finish.
Domaine de La Motte	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Ligneau)	2022	92	Cool, precise and focused. Less overtly ripe than many premier crus with more direct exposition – the steep slopes seem to have preserved a lot of freshness. 20% of the blend is matured in wood, adding to the complex and fine texture. Domaine de La Motte has 25ha in Chablis.
Domaine Denis Race	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	92	This is a very approachable Montmains, with an appealing combination of ripe fruit and bright acidity. Clean, fresh and drinking well already. On their 18ha estate, Denis, Laurence and daughters Claire and Marine manage vines that are up to 90 years old.
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	92	A fine example with plenty of warmth on the palate, purity of fruit, a subtle note of wood (20% of the blend), but all kept in check by some lovely, direct acidity. Hint of stoniness on the finish to match the lingering flavour of stone fruit.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2022	92	Elegant, precise, lovely stony edge here. Great concentration but relatively understated at the moment. This needs many years to blossom but is certain to be very good in time. The Raveneau plot is located at the bottom of Forêts, with deeper soils, protected within an amphitheatre.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	Made from a large plot in Vaillons, with the addition of a very small plot in Séchet. Floral notes, white flowers, elegance to the fore. Plenty of vibrant acidity on the palate. Crisp lime and lemon zest notes. Not a blockbuster in terms of weight but has wonderful drive and purity.
Domaine Gérard Tremblay	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	92	From their 37ha estate, Gérard Tremblay and wife Hélène produce this Montmains which shows a good balance between ripeness of fruit and freshening acidity. Savoury and mineral notes are evident on the long finish. A very good example which should age well.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	92	Linear and elegant on the palate. Certainly a premier cru with great purity of fruit and one that, in 2022, is perhaps a little more classic in style. Refined, not a blockbuster. The deeper clay soils here provide additional protection in dry, warm summers.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	92	Rich, touch of florality, bright acidity, plenty of weight and substance. Will appeal to many consumers with the richness of fruit allied to that brisk acidity. Good example of Mont de Milieu.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2022	92	Cooler notes here, as expected from the steep, east-facing slopes of Vaudevey. Decidedly more edgy, with a touch of smoke balanced by ripe fruit on the palate, which is almost tropical in character. A very good end result that's both classy and complex.
Domaine Laurent et Céline Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2022	92	Good density on the palate, with the concentration expected for a premier cru. Sunny character to the fruit, but there is an underlying tension from the shallow soils above the core bedrock, which gives this appealing wine plenty of dynamic force. Cleansing acidity and a saline character add freshness to the finish. A fine example of Vaucoupin.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	92	Quite restrained on the nose, but there is a lovely fruit quality here. Understated now, this needs 12 months to blossom. Acidity is very precise and the overall effect is of a premier cru marked by exceptional purity.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	92	A Montmains which is very smooth and elegant, and drinking beautifully already. A pristine example, this classy wine will undoubtedly age very well but it is hard not to enjoy now. Guillaume Michel describes his plot as being 'in the heart of Montmains Montmains'. The soil here is characterised by cool, fresh, brown clay.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2022	92	Forward white flowers and peach on the palate. A very classy example with a generous mouthfeel and fine acidity. Lots going on here. Mineral at the end, this has a sunny style which will have very wide appeal.
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	Generous and ripe on the palate, with notes of white peach fruit cut with citrus acidity. Although a tank sample, there is plenty to show that this will develop well and be a fine example of Vaillons. Louis is the sixth generation of the Moreau family, based in Beine since 1814. Their plot of Vaillons was planted in 1945 and covers 4ha.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	92	One can feel the tension here. A classy example of Montée de Tonnerre with fruit density balanced by mineral characters and acidity. Should be very good once in bottle. Tank sample.
Domaine Pinson Frères	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	92	Cool, focused and refined, this balances fruit ripeness with a fine line of acidity and a mineral edge to finish. Not a blockbuster, but very refined and classy. One for relatively early drinking. Possibly better known for its Mont de Milieu, in 2022 the Pinson Montmains runs it close.
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	A classy example of Vaillons with loads of fruit ripeness and density on the palate, all balanced by excellent acidity. Hints of maturation in wood add further complexity and it finishes with a subtle mineral character. Drinking well now, this has the density to age.
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2022	92	Very similar to brother Vincent's Côte de Léchet, but there is just a little more evident fruit ripeness here. Hint of smoky reduction provides extra freshness, this is a sun-kissed Côte de Léchet which should drink well relatively young. Vibrant lime acidity adds plenty of complexity to the finish. Sébastien returned to the family domaine in 2005 before setting up his own 7ha estate in 2007.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2022	92	Appealing floral characters on the nose and lots of precision on the palate. A classy example of Beauroy, with peach fruit balanced by crisp and refreshing acidity. A mineral twist at the end adds even more freshness. Based in Beines, the Dauvissat family (Agnès, Didier and son Florent) has a 2ha parcel, sited on the Côte de Savant.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	Typical Vaillons perfume and freshness. Precise but with good weight and precision. A classy Vaillons which will drink well when young but will also age. Fèvre owns 3.5ha, with 50% in Vaillons, and the rest spread between Chatains, Roncière and Melinots. Early harvest here.
Guillaume Vrignaud	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	92	Fresh and lively in the mouth, with attractive floral notes. Clean and bright, a fine combination of green apple fruit character and acidity. Crisp, cleansing and appetising. Although a tank sample this will develop into a fine bottle of Fourchaume.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	92	A very elegant example of Fourchaume. A fine, all round package with depth and weight of fruit. Enough acidity to balance. Would drink this earlier than some, as it has a very generous fruit character. Droin's vines are planted in the Vaupulent climat.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	92	Located right in the centre of Mont de Milieu. Droin believes this shares some similarities with Condrieu, with notes of apricot and peach on the full and fleshy palate. Attractive spice and zest to finish. Will drink well early.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	Very elegant, perfumed floral notes to the fore, allied with sunny, ripe stone fruit. Quite delicate and refined on the nose. Good volume in the mouth with fine acidity to finish. A blend of five different climats.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2022	92	Fleshy, ripe stone fruit on the palate balanced by lemon/lime acidity. Crisp and linear, this just lacks a bit of complexity on the finish.
Pascal Bouchard	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	92	An intriguing blend, with forceful acidity on the palate meeting soft stone fruit characters, all supported by gentle flavours and textures from ageing in oak barrels. Not quite in harmony yet, but the potential is there. Give this at least 12 months in bottle.
Pierrick Laroche, Maison des Hates	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2022	92	A very appealing Vau de Vey with plenty of weight and concentration on the palate. Facing south and east, the steep slopes only get sun in the morning, equalling lots of acidity which acts as a fine counterpoise to the fruit ripeness. Finishes with a lingering, stony, savoury note. Aged 15 months in old barrels. Lots to enjoy already, this will age well.
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	92	Restrained, elegant and refined example of Mont de Milieu. Lovely purity of fruit, allied to crisp acidity and a long, stony, mineral character on the finish. Very typical of top Chablis premier cru. Will age.
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	92	Clean, fresh and very precise example of Vaillons. Has attractive floral notes and plenty of acidity on the palate, which is a great balance for the white peach characters. Drinking well already, this should age well for up to four years.
Domaine Alain Geoffroy	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2022	91	The Alain Geoffroy estate lies to the west of Chablis around Beine. The domaine makes a consistently good example of Beauroy and its 2022 is crisp, with drive and freshness on both nose and palate. Not a heavyweight, but there is a precision here with citrus acidity and a nice mineral edge adding extra layers of flavour.
Domaine Alain Geoffroy	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Ligneau)	2022	91	Precise and focused. Sun-kissed ripe pear and apple, with plenty of mineral notes and crisp acidity to confirm this as a premier cru. A good example from this less frequently seen premier cru.
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2022	91	Rich and concentrated as expected. Plenty of lees activity going on but there is zesty lemon acidity to keep the palate very fresh. Would expect this to be very good once in bottle. Tank sample.
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	91	Extended ageing has brought additional complexity to the weighty, concentrated palate. Closed on the nose, but there is plenty of purity on the palate, combined with vivid acidity. Needs some time before broaching, this should be pretty good in 12 months time. Tank sample.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	91	Plenty of ripe sunny fruit here. Crisp acidity, lovely purity, one for relatively early drinking. Salty edge to finish. From six plots spread across Vaillons, harvested at separate times. Fermented individually, blended in August, then aged for several months. To be bottled at the end of 2023.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	91	Elegant, plenty of drive here, as expected from this top site. Mineral notes to the fore. Relatively early drinker. Produced from purchased grapes.
Domaine Feuillebois et Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	91	Crisp and cool on the palate, this is a Montmains with plenty of weight balanced by the Chablis terroir. Nice density and concentration, plenty of substance but very fresh and focused on the finish. Will age well.
Domaine Jean Collet & Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	91	Crisp, cool and precise on the palate, there is plenty of sunny, ripe peach fruit, but also a strident line of acidity which is more to the fore at the moment. Needs a few months to balance out, but it will be a fine example of Montmains from a warmer vintage. The estate dates back to 1792.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	91	Plenty of density and richness on the palate, with a ripe stone fruit character and acidity to balance. Nice sunny edge to the fruit. Should age well but you could approach this relatively early.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	91	Touch of spice, crunchy fruit, less multi-dimensional than others in the Louis Michel range at the moment, but there is certainly potential for development. Needs 12 months but then likely to be an early drinker after that. Quite tight and closed currently, Michel's Vaillons had only very recently been bottled.
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	91	Plenty of weight on the palate from the old vines, with notes of ripe melon and peach kept in check by the acidity. This has a bit more ripeness and alcohol, suggesting it will benefit from earlier consumption. The Raoul Gautherin domaine traces its roots back to 1585.
Domaine Soupé	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	91	Appealing Montée de Tonnerre with plenty going on. Ripe stone fruit on the palate balanced by zesty citrus acidity and a long, stony aftertaste. Will be a wine to enjoy while relatively young, but there is much to enjoy here.
Domaine Soupé	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	91	Clean, fresh and bright example of Vaillons. Shows the expected sunny ripeness of this well-exposed site, but also the fine line of acidity which the best wines have. Could be enjoyed now. but will certainly keep.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2022	91	Showing a distinct green tinge in the glass. Plenty of purity and finesse, but not as dramatic as some premier crus. Missing a bit of complexity at the moment, although this will evolve with more time in bottle. Didier Séguier emphasised the need to pick early to preserve freshness. 20% matured in old barrels after malolactic fermentation.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vosgros)	2022	91	Droin explains that although Vosgros is technically a left bank premier cru, it faces the same way as the top right bank climats. Although with a direct southwesterly exposition, the vines are located in a very cold valley. More restraint here, good density, but a little less of a mineral thread.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2022	91	Focused on the palate. Plenty of drive if a little closed at the moment, but there is depth, concentration and layers to the fruit. To revisit once bottled. Should be a top example in time. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	91	Warmth of the site comes through: steep slopes and a sunny exposition but balanced by cold soils. Will age. Purchased grapes from two separate plots, Samuel Billaud has worked with the grower for many years.
Benjamin Laroche,La Manufacture Vins Fins	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Ligneau)	2022	90	Well-balanced premier cru from the steep-sided Vau-Ligneau. Crisp acidity on a smooth palate with notes of green apple and slightly underripe pear. Will drink well relatively early.
Celine & Romain Poullet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	90	Powerful, weighty and solid example of Fourchaume. Just a little heavy on the palate, but there is no shortage of fruit ripeness or succulence here. Will drink well early. Finishes with an attractive spiciness.
Chartron et Trebuchet	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	90	Delivered in a very heavy bottle, this is a classy Mont de Milieu with more than a nod to Puligny-Montrachet. Touch of oak to balance the sunny ripe fruit on the palate. Good acidity keeps everything on track.
Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2022	90	Plenty of cool, fresh sensations on both nose and palate; shows the personality of this premier cru. More green apple fruit in character with plenty of acidity on the finish, should gain a bit more weight and complexity with a further 12 months in bottle.
Domaine de la Mandelière	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	90	Bright, fresh and relatively easy on the palate. Hint of white pepper here. Appealing, juicy stone fruit character with some lime zest acidity to finish. Enjoyable now, relatively early drinker but a classy example. From a domaine in Fleys.
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	90	Breadth and plushness on the palate, but this is kept in check by that typical acidity and mineral character from this special site. Lacks a little precision, but this is still a highly enjoyable and relatively early-drinking example.
Domaine du Chardonnay	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	90	Nicely balanced Montmains showing the ripeness of the 2022 vintage, with good density and concentration cut with crisp, green apple acidity. Should be a fine wine once bottled. Tank sample.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2022	90	Shows the extra weight and density expected from a premier cru. Sunny and lively fruit character. Good acidity. Very cool, clean and crisp. A wine to enjoy young.
Domaine Laurent et Céline Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2022	90	Plenty of ripe, sunny fruit on the palate. Quite forward for a premier cru but will be enjoyed by many as a result. Drink over the next four years.
Domaine Michaut-Jacob	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2022	90	A premier cru with plenty of generous fruit. Very clean and crisp. Melon character on the palate, with pear skin bitterness adding some extra complexity to the finish. Typical of the early-ripening climate of Beauroy. Cécile and Romuald head up the Michaut-Jacob domaine in Beine.
Domaine Paul Nicolle	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	90	Vivid green/gold colour in the glass, and plenty of warmth and density on the palate. Attractive now and has the acidity to age well for several years, but probably best enjoyed relatively young.
Edmond Chalmeau	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	90	Plenty of freshness here to counterbalance the fruit ripeness and a generous, fleshy feel on the palate. Should be good once in bottle. Tank sample.
Isabelle & Denis Pommier	Chablis (1er Cru Troesmes)	2022	90	Cool, crisp and focused, with an excellent balance between acidity, mineral notes and generous white peach and pear fruit. Should be good. Tank sample.
La Chablisienne	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	90	Waxy texture. Plenty of freshness with notable acidity to cut through the generous fruit. Suspect this will become a very fine Montmains, although the tank sample nature makes it hard to give a definitive score.
Venon & Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	90	Plenty of bright, sunny ripeness on the palate, with stone fruit to the fore. Enough acidity to balance but the fruit weight suggests this should be consumed relatively early. Appealing zest to finish. Venon & Fils is another domaine located in Fleys.

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Grand Cru Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Thu, 07 Dec 2023 12:10:45 +0000

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2022 score table – notes for the 108 wines scoring 93 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2022 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2022 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Premier Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis | Petit Chablis

Grand Cru Chablis 2022

Size: 101 hectares

The pinnacle of Chablis, formed of seven distinct climats, located on the right bank of the Serein river, with a prime southwest exposition in the main. Running from west to east, one finds Bougros, Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchots, the latter having a different, easterly exposition.

La Moutonne is an unofficial eighth grand cru which lies in both Preuses and Vaudésir, while Les Bouguerots is a distinctive section within Bougros. Chablis grand cru is a noble wine, usually with a higher proportion of oak used within the blend and one which will benefit from long-term ageing.

2022 vintage

In 2022, some Bougros (an early-ripening site) seem a little broad, while the cooler Valmur has provided extra freshness and tension. Les Clos combines power, grace, and the best producers have made wines which will last for several decades.

Top-scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2022

The wines below all scored 94 points and above.

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Burgundy 2022: What to expect

Premier Cru Chablis 2022: Top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Thu, 07 Dec 2023 12:05:42 +0000

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2022 score table – notes for the 108 wines scoring 93 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2022 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2022 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis | Petit Chablis

Premier Cru Chablis 2022

Size: 772 hectares

Premier cru Chablis comprises 40 climats (named vineyard sites) located on both sides of the river Serein, with slightly lower yields and higher alcohol than AP Chablis. More producers use a small proportion of oak in maturation but the emphasis is to express the individual terroir characteristics.

The category offers great value in comparison to the expensive wines from the Côte d’Ôr. There are 40 climats in total, with 17 classified as main climats, which can contain others within. Producers can use either designation. Vaillons, for example, comprises eight climats – Les Lys, Les Epinottes, Roncières, Mélinots, Beugnons, Châtains, Sécher and Vaillons itself.

The premier cru vineyards are located on either the left or right bank of the Serein river, with Montmains and Valiions the most recognised on the left bank. Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre are the top right bank names. 2022 was successful on both sides, with some of the cooler sites excelling. The right bank has delivered some exceptional premier cru for long-term ageing.

2022 vintage

Top-scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2022

The wines below all scored 93 points and above.

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Burgundy 2022: What to expect

Grand Cru Chablis 2022 score table

Decanter Staff — Thu, 07 Dec 2023 10:14:09 +0000

New title

After tasting almost 400 Chablis 2022 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 52 Chablis Grand Cru wines all with 90 points or above.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	97	WINE OF THE VINTAGE. TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER.Raveneau have 0.5ha in Les Clos in a plot which runs straight down the slope in the mid-levels of the climat. Great power and precision here, almost as if it were chiselled from the rock underneath the roots. Notes of pear and white peach, cut with thrilling acidity and great zesty acidity to finish. Very subtle oak. Powerful and fine. Very complex and layered in flavour. A great 2022.
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Moutonne Grand Cru Monopole)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. The unofficial 'eighth' Chablis Grand Cru, Moutonne is a very exciting wine in 2022. A very sophisticated grand cru with a complex combination of purity, lift and precision on both the nose and palate, freshened with saltiness and iodine notes to finish. Concentrated with ripe fruit character and a lovely balance between power and elegance really lifting this. Wait for several years before broaching. Tank sample. Tasted blind.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER.Guillaume Michel observes that Les Clos is 'never ready to drink'. A powerful, compact and fine grand cru which has loads of potential. The vines were planted in 1968, on limestone/clay soils over oyster rich marl. Density here, a touch of spice, concentrated but also light on its feet. Michel's Les Clos will spend another nine months in tank and will undoubtedly be a slow maturer. Will be very fine but will need several years to show its best.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. Dauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. Pale in colour, this has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	96	Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre's Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat's plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.
Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	96	The very steep aspect of Côte Bouguerots is highlighted by a much greater emphasis on minerality than Fevre's Bougros. This is a grand cru is every way - so much drive on the palate with plenty of extract, concentration, salinity and length. Certain to keep very well but this is also surprisingly approachable early on. DIdier Seguier says it's likely to close down after 18-24 months but this is clearly a fine example with masses of potential.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Winemaker Olivier Bailly explained that the 2022 was the first vintage coming from Billaud-Simon's replanted plot from 2018, that has not been harvested until now, at the eastern end of Les Clos adjacent to Blanchot. 50% matured in wood but Bailly comments 'Les Clos will consume the wood easily'. Great drive - amazing for just five-year-old vines. Layers of flavour with great purity. WIll be worth following this as the vines gain additional age.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	95	Very appealing, with a fine balance of richness and ripeness of fruit, combined with white pepper, saline minerals and plenty of freshening acidity. A very classy example.
Domaine Laroche, Les Bouguerots	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	95	Laroche's Les Bouguerots comes from selected vines replanted on the steep lower slopes of the Bougros Grand Cru, with a foot of clay soil over the bedrock. Quite a bit of reduction on the nose which is keeping the wine a little shy at the moment. Lots of acidity, combined with concentration and depth on the palate and a long finish with real focus and drive. Promises a lot but will need quite a bit of time. A very fine grand cru in the making. Tasted blind.
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Quite subtle and restrained on both nose and palate. Plenty of warmth of fruit, but as yet quite restrained. Lovely, salty, zesty notes promise a lot in the future. Ripe peach fruit characters develop with a few minutes in the glass. This will be a great example of Les Clos once in bottle. Tank sample.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2022	95	It was in the 1960's when Louis Michel decided to move away from the use of wooden barrels and, under the management of Guillaume Michel, has taken this even further. The vines here are aged between 50-80 years, and are planted on deep brown clay soil, interspersed with pebbles. A lovely example of Grenouilles - precise, focussed and already very expressive. Direct acidity but lots of purity. Will be bottled in May 2024 after 18-plus months. A long future ahead.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Vincent Dauvissat explained that his Les Preuses is 'the opposite' of Les Clos. Pale in colour, the emphasis here is on finesse, elegance and precision. Although not showing a lot at the moment, the undercurrent of acidity and salinity, combined with concentration on the palate, suggest this will develop beautifully over many years.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Fevre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Their plot is situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fevre's father in the 1940s and 1950s. Small yield, very concentrated, with loads of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. A very long future ahead.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre's father in the 1940s and 1950s.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2022	95	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. One of the most influential Chablis producers, Jean-Paul and Benoit Droîn's family have been in the region for 400 years. The estate comprises 26ha with around 0.5ha in Grenouilles. Profound and rich on both the nose and palate. A very fine Grenouilles with a great combination of acidity, concentration and ripeness of fruit. Subtle, judicious oaking. Will drink well early but will also age many years.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	95	A fine grand cru which emphasises the finesse of Preuses, together with concentration and energy on the palate. Lots of fruit ripeness here, generous with notes of peach fruit. Great acidity. Small foudres used for ageing this grand cru, but in a very subtle way which will certainly integrate after bottling.
La Chablisienne, Château Grenouilles	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2022	95	Plenty of concentration on the palate, but there is also plenty of lift and elegance. Stone fruit characters allied to citrus acidity and some forceful mineral notes on the finish add to the freshness. Very impressive example of Grenouilles with a great future ahead. Buy a case and keep for at least five years. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Fantastic concentration, so precise and clean on the palate with pronounced weight of stone fruit, length of flavour and vibrant acidity. Although aged in barrel, you don't really taste the oak. From 70-year-old vines, this is a profound Les Clos for long-term ageing. Billaud owns just 8 ares in Les Clos, allowing for a total production of just one barrel; good luck in buying any.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	94	Billaud-Simon always produces a super-classy Les Preuses. A more restrained, racy style of grand cru. Less wood evident here, which lets the ripeness of the fruit shine through. Very nice acidity. Lots of enjoyment and mineral notes to finish. Long and elegant. 70-year-old vines from one plot. Three barrels used in 2022, with a small proportion (13%) of new oak.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	94	Crisp, linear and focused, this doesn’t have the out-and-out power of the producer's Les Clos, but makes up for it with finesse. A thoroughbred needing several years. Lovely white peach flavour. From a large plot on the left side of Valmur. This site gets the morning sun and direct heat in the main part of the day but remains shaded from mid-afternoon onwards.
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	94	Cool, fresh and very precise; love the density. Crisp acidity to balance the warmth of the vintage and the concentration on the palate. Very subtle oak. Will develop very well for many years. A fine Valmur which highlights the advantage this site has in exposition and altitude. Tank sample.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	94	Fèvre's Valmur plots lie over marly Kimmeridgian soils, with the emphasis here on freshness and a degree of austerity. Very dramatic, dense and concentrated on the palate, and which exudes purity and drive. A great success in 2022 and great ageing potential.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Hommage à Louis	Chablis (Grand Cru)	2022	94	Benoît Droin notes the current administrative issues which prevent this cuvée being designated as Les Clos. Droin have three plots ranging from cailloux dominated soils to the east by Blanchot; blue-clay soils in the central area; and blue-clay/brown clay in the western plot beneath Valmur. Loads of spice, very powerful and a wine with great character and personality. Needs time to settle down but has lots of potential.
Julie Fevre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	94	A winning combination of the ripeness of fruit in 2022 with the acidity and mineral characters from the terroir of Les Clos. Fresh on the palate, yet there is an intriguing note of honey here which adds to the whole. Concentrated and with great purity, this will be a Les Clos to keep and enjoy over many years. Julie, daughter of Nathalie, trained in oenology at Dijon University. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	94	Quite a deep colour. Sunny and ripe character but also very fresh and lively on the finish. A powerful, weighty grand cru with one year ageing in oak. Samuel Billaud owns two plots within Vaudesir; one located in the west and one in the east, and BIllaud highlights the contrasting styles between the two sites.
Charly Nicolle	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	93	A fine Bougros with plenty of acidity and mineral notes, allied to floral lift and some white pepper and spice on the palate. Not a blockbuster but very refined and elegant. No rush to drink this.
Dampt Freres	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2022	93	Shows more of an herbal, slightly edgy style (to be expected from the unusual exposition of Blanchot). Plenty of zesty acidity here and no shortage of concentration on the palate. A classy result in this warmer vintage. Will benefit from a couple of years in bottle.
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	93	Lovely sweetness of fruit, allied with the concentration expected from Chablis grand cru. Sunny and bright, but there is still lots of tension from the mineral notes and thread of acidity. Wood a bit evident at the moment but will settle down with time. This will be very fine once bottled and aged for a few years. Tank sample.
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Cool, restrained, nutty characters on the palate. A bit of wood is evident but there is plenty of balance and concentration to suggest this will develop very well once in bottle. Very good purity and ripeness of fruit. Tank sample.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Sunny, warm, toasty and plenty of acidity. A grand cru with power yet retains plenty of finesse and purity. Partly matured in barrel, the oak is certainly evident, although Olivier Bailly says the wood will virtually disappear after a year in bottle.
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	93	Very cool, elegant and with lovely purity on the palate. Acidity is the dominant player at the moment but give this 18 months in bottle before broaching. Fine texture, a really elegant expression.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2022	93	A grand cru with weight and power. Already disarmingly appealing, this elegant example is mineral and concentrated. A very fine Blanchot which will blossom after five years and drink for 20. Salty tang on the finish with intriguing hints of orange box.
Domaine Gueguen	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	93	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Celine (daughter of Jean-Marc Brocard) and husband Frédéric, run this exciting operation in Prehy. Their Les Preuses is produced from grapes purchased from Sebastien Dauvissat. A very refined and concentrated example. Sun ripened peach fruit adorns the palate yet this retains a precision and elegance which bodes well for the future. Fermented and matured in oval steel tanks.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	A grand cru with concentration and ageing potential. A great combination of ripeness and richness, cut with salinity and citrus acidity. From the north-facing side of the Vaudésir valley, Michel has two parcels planted on rich clay soils. Vaudésir can be a heat trap, but for those facing north it is less of an issue.
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Concentrated and dense on the palate. Creamy notes, some oak here. Will be delicious once bottled. A fine expression of the warmer Vaudésir grand cru in this sunny vintage. Can be enjoyed relatively young. Tank sample.
Domaine Roy, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	93	Cool, fresh and precise. A grand cru with direct acidity and purity on the palate. Not a blockbuster but very much a pedigree animal. Mineral notes are very evident on the finish. Needs a few years cellaring to add further complexity and show its best. A family estate based in Fontenay, dating back to 1810, with Claude, David and Karine the latest generation in charge. Domaine Roy has over 3ha of Bougros, with vines aged over 50 years old.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Starts ripe and fleshy in the mouth, then the minerality comes through. Fresh and direct, a very nicely balanced wine which, although approachable now, will age. The vines here lie on very steep slopes with full exposition to the sun. Early harvesting is the key to freshness.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	93	Valmur is a colder valley, with the effect being that there is much more minerality evident. Focused and perfumed, drive and tension on the palate. Intriguing notes of orange zest add further interest. 40% of the blend is aged in barrel. Saline notes to finish; there is a lot going on.
Lamblin & Fils	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	93	Racy acidity. Lots of minerality that rather dominates the ripe peach fruit character, but this will settle down over the next 18 months and the wine promises to be a fine Les Clos which will age well for up to a decade. Salty and white pepper notes on the finish. Fresh and very lively. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	93	There is a deeper edge to the colour, with excellent concentration and ripeness on the palate. All this is cut with citrus acidity, finishing with a powerful mineral undertow. Loads of character. A powerful and distinctive Les Preuses. Purchased grapes from 60-year-old vines.
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	93	Plenty of sun-ripened fruit evident on the palate, with freshening citrus acidity to keep all in check. Nice density here. Not an out and out blockbuster but refined, elegant and a grand cru which will develop very well over time. Tank sample.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	92	Creamy but with crisp acidity and a long, fresh finish. Lots to like. Still has plenty of warmth. Purchased grapes from the north-facing side of Valmur. Billaud-Simon produces its Valmur and Blanchot with unusually shaped vats designed to enhance the effect of maturation on fine lees.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	92	From vines averaging 45 years, this Bougros has been matured in steel tanks to retain freshness and focus. Natural yeasts, cool fermentation, there is plenty of force here and this will age very well.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	92	Although there is undoubtedly depth and weight here, this Bougros lacks a bit of clarity at the moment, but the density is there. To be revisited once bottled. Tank sample.
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	92	Plenty of warmth here, with good concentration and the acidity to balance. Approachable, lacks a bit of finesse at the moment but has plenty of character and appeal. Likely to gain complexity with further ageing in bottle. Tank sample.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	92	A little sulphury at the moment (tank sample) and not very expressive. Quite a light style of grand cru. Some floral notes on the nose and citrus acidity, just lacking a bit of the expected concentration. Given the quality of this domaine, this is likely to warrant a higher score after bottling.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	92	Bougros, according to Didier Séguier, is the place for those who like lots of ripeness and not too much minerality. Quality has increased greatly here with reduced yields. Plenty of weight and ripeness but also with finesse and appeal.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	92	Plenty of concentration. Pure, ripe peach fruit but lots of acidity and drive as well. The warmer site of this grand cru comes through, yet the wine is still elegant and shows good balance. A fine example, with 40% of the blend aged in barrel.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2022	92	Interesting combination of sunny, warm fruit and very direct acidity. Lots of purity and drive. Delicious already, should age very well. Saline edge. Purchased grapes.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2022	91	Shows a sunny disposition. Crisp acidity, nice concentration and purity. 'Feminine,' says winemaker Olivier Bailly. A very appealing example but not quite the concentration for a Grand Cru? All fermented and matured in steel tanks. From a small plot at the top of Blanchot, separated by the road from Les Clos.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	91	Plenty of warmth and oak, with good volume in the mouth. An appealing Bougros but just needs a bit more of a lift for a higher score. Made with purchased grapes, this is aged in barrels for one year.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	90	A little reductive and stinky on the nose. Less density here, a little broader and lacks a bit of concentration. Would want to retaste. Zesty acidity. Produced from purchased grapes.

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 06 Dec 2023 06:44:10 +0000

Chablis 2022: 4.5/5

‘It was a very good vintage with extremely healthy grapes’ – Vincent Dauvissat

Chablis 2022: wine of the vintage

Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

After a week spent in Chablis tasting 375 wines, it is clear that 2022 is a very good year – and potentially an excellent one. Although a warm and very dry vintage, yields were not excessive and, crucially, acidity is high. The resulting wines are very well balanced with a lovely combination of the freshness and minerality which typifies Chablis, combined with fleshy, ripe, stone- and tree-fruit flavours.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a selection of top-scoring and top-value Chablis 2022 wines

Coming after the very challenging growing season in 2021 (severe frosts, cold weather and rainfall leading to disease pressure), Chablis 2022 has a different style and one which will appeal both to ‘classic’ Chablis lovers as well as those looking for more generous fruit character.

Top producer Vincent Dauvissat commented that in 2022 ‘the vines were recovering from 2021, and were compensating with lots of vegetative growth’. Dauvissat notes: ‘It was a very good vintage with extremely healthy grapes.’

See the Chablis 2022 top wines score table for all wines scoring 93 points or above

Chablis: vintage styles

2022: 4.5/5

A very fine vintage for Chablis that combines the freshness of 2017/2021 with the warmth and ripeness of 2019/2020. Healthy grapes, plenty of acidity and attractive peach/pear fruit character – a fine vintage that balances generous ripeness with crisp citrus acidity and salinity. Will age well.

2021: 4/5

A difficult growing season (frosts, hail, high disease pressure) had a drastic effect on yields. But, the reduced yields allowed those grapes that were left to ripen fully, leaving a small crop marked by powerful acidity and a purity that emphasises individual terroir. Very different to the three preceding vintages.

2020: 4/5

An uncomplicated growing season and harvest which, although dry and warm, did not suffer from the excessive heat seen in 2019 and 2018. Generous yields reduced concentration for some but there was good fruit ripeness, no disease pressure and sufficient acidity. Very attractive wines with good balance.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Benoît Droin (Domaine J-P et Benoît Droin) agrees, saying ‘2022 was not too hot, with very good acidity and volume’, and characterising the vintage as a ‘combination of 2017 and 2020’. Olivier Bailly (Domaine Billaud-Simon) believes 2022 is superior to both 2020 and 2021, noting that ‘pH was very low and this has given the wines great freshness’. Bailly puts 2022 on a par with 2019, albeit two years with very different styles: ‘2019 had masses of concentration, whereas 2022 has lots of acidity to balance the ripeness.’

All of those interviewed agreed that it was important to get the picking timings right. The harvest was early and those who picked just a few days ‘late’ have produced wines with higher alcohol, more tropical fruit flavours and insufficient acidity. Didier Séguier at William Fèvre agreed ‘there was a danger of overripeness, so the picking date was crucial’.

Weather conditions

According to the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins des Vins de Bourgogne (BIVB), the harvest in 2022 was a good one, particularly for Chardonnay – stormy showers arrived at judicious points through the summer, but without causing significant hail damage. BIVB has confirmed that the overall production in Burgundy amounted to 1.75 million hectolitres (233 million bottles), helping producers across the region to replenish stocks after the depleted vintage of 2021.

Winemaker Isabelle Raveneau of Domaine François Raveneau. (Image credit: Andy Howard MW)

Within Chablis, a mild and dry winter encouraged the early development of the vines, with producers fearing the risk of spring frost. The cold snap duly arrived between 3-11 April, but fortunately the buds were a little less developed than in 2021 and damage was light. Temperatures turned warmer leading to rapid flowering by the end of May, with rainfall less than half the seasonal average. June then turned extremely wet, before July and August followed with almost drought-like conditions. Vines planted on thinner and sandy soils suffered more stress, but old vines coped remarkably with the dry conditions. Rainfall in mid-August gave respite to the vines with the harvest commencing at the end of August.

Quality is homogenous across all quality tiers, from Petit Chablis up through to the grands crus, and between left-bank and right-bank climats. Petit Chablis shows ripeness of stone fruit and will be ideal for early drinking, whereas most AP Chablis wines show a notable step up in concentration, together with the expected salinity and mineral notes.

Scores were consistently a point higher across the board for the key appellations than they were last year. Petit Chablis averaged 89 (88 in 2021), Chablis 90 (89), premiers crus 92 (91), with the Grand Cru at 94 (compared to 93 in 2021).

Some wines were blowsy and relatively high in alcohol – these did not show as well in blind tasting. However, although a higher proportion of oak was evident, this seems well suited to the additional fruit ripeness found in 2022, with only a few wines out of balance.

See all Chablis 2022 wines tasted

Vintage highlights

Of the premiers crus, Montmains was very successful, with the cooler, less-exposed climats of Les Lys, Vau de Vey and Vau Ligneau all showing lovely freshness. On the right bank, Montée de Tonnerre and Fourchaume were excellent, with Mont de Milieu almost trumping them both.

As expected, the grands crus are excellent and these will develop into profound, ageworthy wines once in bottle and given time to mature, with Les Clos leading the way.

Didier Séguier of William Fèvre. (Image credit: Andy Howard MW)

Within the Chablis appellation, there are encouraging signs of some new, exciting domaines producing very good examples. The influence of a younger generation is evident, with some of the producers to look out for being Domaine Orion, Domaine Courtault Michelet, Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller, Domaine Gérard Tremblay and Florent Dauvissat (son of Agnès and Didier).

Chablis remains good value across all tiers, particularly when compared to the escalating prices for Burgundy wines from the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais.

The acute shortage of wine in 2021 certainly fuelled increases in Chablis prices, but the larger crop in 2022 should help stabilise the situation.

Grand cru can still be purchased for less than £50 a bottle – not cheap, but exceptional value compared to the grands crus from further south.

Chablis 2022 can be recommended as a wine to enjoy while relatively youthful, but with the higher-scoring wines – and those from the top producers – being able to age beautifully for many years. It is a vintage with a winning combination of fruit ripeness combined with fresh acidity and classic Chablis notes of salinity and minerality. A year to stock up on.

Howard’s pick: 30 great buys

The following wines are Andy Howard MW’s pick of the top-scoring and best-value Chablis 2022 wines, according to his own extensive tastings, as well as including wines from ‘producers to look out for’.

NB: many retailers’ allocations for these wines are as yet unconfirmed – prices and stockists are given where available, and alcohol levels are shown where known at the time of writing. If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Burgundy 2022: What to expect

Chablis 2022 score table

Decanter Staff — Wed, 06 Dec 2023 06:38:40 +0000

After tasting almost 400 Chablis 2022 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 108 wines all with 93 points or above.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	97	WINE OF THE VINTAGE. TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER.Raveneau have 0.5ha in Les Clos in a plot which runs straight down the slope in the mid-levels of the climat. Great power and precision here, almost as if it were chiselled from the rock underneath the roots. Notes of pear and white peach, cut with thrilling acidity and great zesty acidity to finish. Very subtle oak. Powerful and fine. Very complex and layered in flavour. A great 2022.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	96	Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre's Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat's plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.
Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	96	The very steep aspect of Côte Bouguerots is highlighted by a much greater emphasis on minerality than Fevre's Bougros. This is a grand cru is every way - so much drive on the palate with plenty of extract, concentration, salinity and length. Certain to keep very well but this is also surprisingly approachable early on. DIdier Seguier says it's likely to close down after 18-24 months but this is clearly a fine example with masses of potential.
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Moutonne Grand Cru Monopole)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. The unofficial 'eighth Grand Cru climat', Moutonne is a very exciting wine in 2022. A very sophisticated grand cru with a complex combination of purity, lift and precision on both the nose and palate, freshened with saltiness and iodine notes to finish. Concentrated with ripe fruit character and a lovely balance between power and elegance really lifting this. Wait for several years before broaching. Tank sample. Tasted blind.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER.Guillaume Michel observes that Les Clos is 'never ready to drink'. A powerful, compact and fine grand cru which has loads of potential. The vines were planted in 1968, on limestone/clay soils over oyster rich marl. Density here, a touch of spice, concentrated but also light on its feet. Michel's Les Clos will spend another nine months in tank and will undoubtedly be a slow maturer. Will be very fine but will need several years to show its best.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. Dauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. Pale in colour, this has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	96	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. Fevre have 3.65ha of Vaulorent. Situated on the grand cru hill rather than the Fourchaume slope, the soils here are characterised by lots of Kimmeridgian marl. Much tighter and tenser than Fevre's Montée de Tonnerre with less overt minerality, but there's lots of energy here, powerful and precise and compensates with concentration and density more akin to Chablis Grand Cru. GIve this five years and it will be stunning. The Côte Bouguerots also scored 96 points.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	95	A fine grand cru which emphasises the finesse of Preuses, together with concentration and energy on the palate. Lots of fruit ripeness here, generous with notes of peach fruit. Great acidity. Small foudres used for ageing this grand cru, but in a very subtle way which will certainly integrate after bottling.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	A stunning example, with finesse allied to power. Real tension and energy here. Will be approachable quite young, but really should be aged for over five years for the best result. Fèvre has 2.24ha within Montée de Tonnerre. Plots are located in Pied d'Aloup (facing east) with profound Kimmeridgian soils bringing freshness, Chapelot facing south on deep soil adding richness, and Côte de Brechain facing west on top of the hill with the oldest plots dating back to 1936.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Fantastic concentration, so precise and clean on the palate with pronounced weight of stone fruit, length of flavour and vibrant acidity. Although aged in barrel, you don't really taste the oak. From 70-year-old vines, this is a profound Les Clos for long-term ageing. Billaud owns just 8 ares in Les Clos, allowing for a total production of just one barrel; good luck in buying any.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Fevre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Their plot is situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fevre's father in the 1940s and 1950s. Small yield, very concentrated, with loads of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. A very long future ahead.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level. There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	95	Nathalie, Gilles (and now daughter Julie) run this high-quality domaine in Fontenay. WIth 2.2ha of Vaulorent, this is aged for a minimum of 12 months on fine lees with 20% matured in oak. Very good weight and concentration, with bright flavours of stone fruit, combined with zesty citrus acidity and the power expected from this top site. Very pure, even though a tank sample, this has the power to age beautifully for up to a decade. Great example of Vaulorent.
La Chablisienne, Château Grenouilles	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2022	95	Plenty of concentration on the palate, but there is also plenty of lift and elegance. Stone fruit characters allied to citrus acidity and some forceful mineral notes on the finish add to the freshness. Very impressive example of Grenouilles with a great future ahead. Buy a case and keep for at least five years. Tank sample.
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Quite subtle and restrained on both nose and palate. Plenty of warmth of fruit, but as yet quite restrained. Lovely, salty, zesty notes promise a lot in the future. Ripe peach fruit characters develop with a few minutes in the glass. This will be a great example of Les Clos once in bottle. Tank sample.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre's father in the 1940s and 1950s.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, along with great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully. Manager Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	95	Very appealing, with a fine balance of richness and ripeness of fruit, combined with white pepper, saline minerals and plenty of freshening acidity. A very classy example.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Vincent Dauvissat explained that his Les Preuses is 'the opposite' of Les Clos. Pale in colour, the emphasis here is on finesse, elegance and precision. Although not showing a lot at the moment, the undercurrent of acidity and salinity, combined with concentration on the palate, suggest this will develop beautifully over many years.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	A benchmark Montée de Tonnerre and one of Ravenau's most famous wines. The domaine has 3.1ha in total, made up of a blend of 10 different plots within Chapelot and Pied d'Aloup, with vines ageing from 10-60 years. Distinct notes of crisp green apple, cool on the nose and palate with great freshness. Impressive stony, mineral characters support the concentration. A profound rendition of Montée de Tonnerre where elegance meets power. For long-term ageing.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2022	95	TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. One of the most influential Chablis producers, Jean-Paul and Benoit Droîn's family have been in the region for 400 years. The estate comprises 26ha with around 0.5ha in Grenouilles. Profound and rich on both the nose and palate. A very fine Grenouilles with a great combination of acidity, concentration and ripeness of fruit. Subtle, judicious oaking. Will drink well early but will also age many years.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2022	95	It was in the 1960's when Louis Michel decided to move away from the use of wooden barrels and, under the management of Guillaume Michel, has taken this even further. The vines here are aged between 50-80 years, and are planted on deep brown clay soil, interspersed with pebbles. A lovely example of Grenouilles - precise, focussed and already very expressive. Direct acidity but lots of purity. Will be bottled in May 2024 after 18-plus months. A long future ahead.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	95	TOP-SCORING WINE. Dauvissat's Montée de Tonnerre comes from Bréchin, and exhibits a dramatic, forceful style of this premier cru. Fascinating to compare with Raveneaus's iteration from Chapelot/Pied d'Aloup. Ripe, rich stone fruit is balanced by notable acidity and a stony, mineral edge. Spice notes add an extra level of interest. Super-classy and with a very long future ahead.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2022	95	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. A special bottling for Samuel Billaud, from vines over 90 years old. A vineyard marked by a high proportion of stones and old rootstock. Billaud says his Sechet has a particular character and. although it ages as well as Montée de Tonnerre it will finish in a different place. Only matured in steel tank for 18 months on lees with one racking. Really very classy and long. A great combination of pear fruit, touch of sunny peach on the palate with abundant minerality to finish.
Domaine Laroche, Les Bouguerots	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	95	Laroche's Les Bouguerots comes from selected vines replanted on the steep lower slopes of Grand Cru Bougros, with a foot of clay soil over the bedrock. Quite a bit of reduction on the nose which is keeping the wine a little shy at the moment. Lots of acidity, combined with concentration and depth on the palate and a long finish with real focus and drive. Promises a lot but will need quite a bit of time. A very fine grand cru in the making. Tasted blind.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	95	Winemaker Olivier Bailly explained that the 2022 was the first vintage coming from Billaud-Simon's replanted plot from 2018, that has not been harvested until now, at the eastern end of Les Clos adjacent to Blanchot. 50% matured in wood but Bailly comments 'Les Clos will consume the wood easily'. Great drive - amazing for just five-year-old vines. Layers of flavour with great purity. WIll be worth following this as the vines gain additional age.
Vincent Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	94	A lovely example of Vaillons from Vincent Dampt. Bright and floral, with very appealing notes of white flowers on the nose, combined with white peach on the palate and a distinctive, salty finish. Fine, concentrated and long. High quality.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	94	A profound, deep character evident on the nose. Weighty, powerful palate with oak evident in the background and a creamy texture. Notes of spice and a touch of orange box. Very crisp and fresh on the finish. This will age into a very fine premier cru. Vines on average over 50 years old.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	94	A very fine example of Montée de Tonnerre. Ripeness of fruit combined with vibrant acidity, it's a fine balance between the power and minerality of Montée de Tonnerre and the ripeness of this particular site. A high-quality introduction to the benefits of biodynamic winemaking.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	94	Billaud-Simon always produces a super-classy Les Preuses. A more restrained, racy style of grand cru. Less wood evident here, which lets the ripeness of the fruit shine through. Very nice acidity. Lots of enjoyment and mineral notes to finish. Long and elegant. 70-year-old vines from one plot. Three barrels used in 2022, with a small proportion (13%) of new oak.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	94	Billaud-Simon have plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in Pied d'Aloup (87 years). Winemaker Olivier Bailly normally only uses tanks for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel. Very pure and crystalline on the nose and palate. Real drive and energy with just the vaguest hint of the wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example.
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	94	Cool, fresh and very precise; love the density. Crisp acidity to balance the warmth of the vintage and the concentration on the palate. Very subtle oak. Will develop very well for many years. A fine Valmur which highlights the advantage this site has in exposition and altitude. Tank sample.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	94	Crisp, linear and focused, this doesn’t have the out-and-out power of the producer's Les Clos, but makes up for it with finesse. A thoroughbred needing several years. Lovely white peach flavour. From a large plot on the left side of Valmur. This site gets the morning sun and direct heat in the main part of the day but remains shaded from mid-afternoon onwards.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	94	Fèvre's Valmur plots lie over marly Kimmeridgian soils, with the emphasis here on freshness and a degree of austerity. Very dramatic, dense and concentrated on the palate, and which exudes purity and drive. A great success in 2022 and great ageing potential.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis	2022	94	Green apple fruit with a touch of bitter pear skin adding bite. Dauvissat has four parcels with the largest opposite the premier cru of Forêts. A great 'straight' Chablis which has a super-fine texture to go along with the ripeness and lingering acidity.
Samuel Billaud, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	94	Produced from vines averaging 60 years old, this shows the typical Vaillons perfume with notes of white flowers. Very good drive and crispness on the palate. Complex and long aftertaste. A top quality example of Vaillons, with the style of a real thoroughbred.
Julie Fevre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	94	A winning combination of the ripeness of fruit in 2022 with the acidity and mineral characters from the terroir of Les Clos. Fresh on the palate, yet there is an intriguing note of honey here which adds to the whole. Concentrated and with great purity, this will be a Les Clos to keep and enjoy over many years. Julie, daughter of Nathalie, trained in oenology at Dijon University. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	94	Quite a deep colour. Sunny and ripe character but also very fresh and lively on the finish. A powerful, weighty grand cru with one year ageing in oak. Samuel Billaud owns two plots within Vaudesir; one located in the west and one in the east, and BIllaud highlights the contrasting styles between the two sites.
Domaine Louis Michel, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2022	94	Restrained and with notable concentration, this is an intense premier cru with great potential. Notes of peach fruit cut with zesty lime citrus. Very fine. From 68-year-old vines on very dense, white clay soils which are like concrete when dry, heavy when wet.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire	Chablis	2022	94	Restrained on the nose, with a brooding, savoury character on the palate. Initially a bit more subdued than the 'straight' Chablis Sainte Claire, this has the potential for future development given the concentration on show; certainly pushing premier cru quality, if not even higher. Julien Brocard explains that the vines here age up to 75 years, reaching down 25m into the soil.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	94	Vaulorent is the opposite in style to Fourchaume for Droin, with soils only 10cm thick. This comes through on the palate with its pronounced mineral character. Shy and introverted at the moment, this is undoubtedly a fine wine which will need quite a bit of time to come round. Very crisp apple fruit flavours and a flinty finish.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	94	Very pure and crystalline on both nose and palate. Real drive and energy, just the vaguest hint of wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example. Billaud-Simon has plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in the Pied d'Aloup climat which reach 87 years old. Olivier Bailly normally only uses tank for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel.
Domaine Pinson Frerès	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	94	TOP VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. This Pinson Freres cuvée comes from south-east facing vines which are 60 years old. Floral notes combine with good ripeness of stone fruit on the palate and freshened up by lovely acidity. 10% of the blend was matured in new oak. This shows Monts de Milieu at its best. Plenty of mineral notes also add extra complexity to the whole. A fine premier cru which has power but in a refined, elegant package.
Jean-Marc Brocard, Les Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire	Chablis	2022	94	TOP-VALUE. Julien Brocard explains that the vines here age up to 75 years, reaching down 25 metres into the soil. More depth of colour than some. Restrained on the nose with a brooding, savoury character on the palate. Initially a bit more subdued than the 'straight' Chablis Sainte Claire, this has the potential for further future development given the concentration on show. Certainly pushing premier cru quality (if not even higher).
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Hommage à Louis	Chablis (Grand Cru)	2022	94	Benoît Droin notes the current administrative issues which prevent this cuvée being designated as Les Clos. Droin has three plots here (the classification of one of which is subject to bureaucratic dispute), ranging from cailloux-dominated soils to the east by Blanchot; blue-clay soils in the central area; and blue-clay/brown clay in the western plot beneath Valmur. Loads of spice, very powerful and a wine with great character and personality. Needs time to settle down but has lots of potential.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux Boissonneuse	Chablis	2022	94	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Julien Brocard's '7 Lieux' are seven distinct vineyards, run biodynamically under his own name. Fermented with indigenous yeast and matured for 12 months in foudres. Lovely wine with a fine balance of fleshiness, power, vivid acidity, and lingering minerality to keep everything precise and in check. You can almost feel the health of the vineyard. A delicious example of Chablis.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	94	Jean-Marc Brocard is one of the most influential producers in Chablis, and a leader in organic (60ha) and biodynamic (40ha) production. Vaulorent is situated next to Grand Cru Les Preuses and shares many characteristics. Restraint and elegance are combined with force, persistence and purity. Plenty of minerality and a salty, iodine note on the finish. A high-quality example of Vaulorent with plenty of ageing potential.
Roland Lavantureux	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2022	94	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Brothers Arnaud and David have been making exciting, intriguing wines at the family domaine. With 0.95ha, their Vau de Vey comes from vines with an average age of 35 years. A high-quality example from this premier cru which has distinct, cooler characters. Plenty of power and complexity on the nose and palate. A touch of oak evident but just needs a bit of time. Rich and luscious on the palate, cut with vibrant citrus acidity and a long, pure finish. A very fine example.
Domaine Roy	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	94	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. A cool, fresh and lively Fourchaume yet the brisk acidity provides a great counterfoil for some succulent, juicy and ripe fruit on the palate. Yet there is no doubting this is of Chablis origin with the focus and intensity on the palate. This should have a long drinking window and is a very classy example marrying the warmth of 2022 and the density of the premier cru.
Domaine Laroche, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	94	Very restrained on the nose at the moment but there is clearly lots of purity and drive here. On the palate, this Fourchaume has great acidity and concentration, aided by the old-vines used for the cuvée. Very precise and delineated on the finish. Has the concentration to age beautifully for five-plus years.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	94	A really impressive Mont de Milieu from Samuel Billaud, produced from his own grapes. 80% in tank with 20% matured in barrels for a year, before a further year in tank after blending. A high-quality, right-bank premier cru. Very stony soils with old-vines and low-yields around 35h/ha. A denser hue than some. Very crisp acidity, lovely texture of apple and a touch of stone fruit with plenty of acidity and pronounced salinity to finish.
Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, Vieille Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)	2022	94	A very weighty old-vine l'Homme Mort from a parcel planted in 1973. Hand-harvested and fermented in 500l barrels before blending and a further 10 months ageing in barrel. Certainly not everyone's idea of a 'classic' Chablis Premier Cru but this is beautifully done and a very classy wine. Will be even better once the wood has fully integrated.
Domaine des Malandes, Envers de Valmur	Chablis	2022	94	TOP-VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Domaine des Malandes was set up by Lynn Marchive in 1972. This is a premium cuvée from a parcel planted by Andre Tremblay between 1966 and 1970, situated at the bottom of the Vaudésir valley. Very precise and pure, crystalline and focussed, this has pronounced oyster-shell characters coming through. 40% matured in one- to five-year-old oak. A high-class Chablis which could easily pass muster for a premier cru (at the minimum). Great finesse as well as concentration.
Charly Nicolle	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	93	A fine Bougros with plenty of acidity and mineral notes, allied to floral lift and some white pepper and spice on the palate. Not a blockbuster but very refined and elegant. No rush to drink this.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	A grand cru with concentration and ageing potential. A great combination of ripeness and richness, cut with salinity and citrus acidity. From the north-facing side of the Vaudésir valley, Michel has two parcels planted on rich clay soils. Vaudésir can be a heat trap, but for those facing north it is less of an issue.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2022	93	A grand cru with weight and power. Already disarmingly appealing, this elegant example is mineral and concentrated. A very fine Blanchot which will blossom after five years and drink for 20. Salty tang on the finish with intriguing hints of orange box.
Julien Brocard, Vigne de la Boissonneuse	Chablis	2022	93	A very classy combination of the extra richness found in 2022, with zesty lime acidity and a distinctive, salty edge to finish. A great Chablis to drink as an accompaniment to food. Long, precise and very pure on the finish. Organic and from a different part of the Brocard operation in Préhy.
Le Domaine d'Henri, Saint Pierre	Chablis	2022	93	A very complete and fine Burgundy which retains Chablis acidity but could easily stand comparison with Bourgogne wines from further south. Great concentration, purity of flavour and lingering acidity. Very fine. Produced by Michel Laroche, this is a complex construction from fermentation with indigenous yeasts, two thirds fermented in steel tank with 20% in amphora and 15% in wood ranging from 228-litre barrels to 600-litre and 1,800-litre. Hand-harvested fruit.
Domaine Servin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	A very crisp, clean and fresh example of Vaillons, with the sunny exposition bringing ripeness of pear and white peach fruit, together with attractive floral notes, all balanced by a fine line of acidity. Classy. The Servin family have been vignerons in the area since 1654.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	A very precise, high-quality example, with weight and ripeness on the palate coming from vines which are planted on very thick soils over Marne bedrock. Touch of bitterness on the finish. Attractive, forward and floral Vaillons.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Although these a rich, deep soils, Droin says they retain a lot of seashell character. Lively and fresh on the palate, you can feel the cool terroir combined with warm, ripe fruit. Very classy and will age beautifully. Benoit Droin explains that it is the argile-bleu (blue clay) found here which adds extra volume.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Appealing already, warm and with a sunny disposition on the palate, there is plenty of driving acidity to balance. Billaud explains that the white clay gives more power. Plenty of tension here. Will age. Not at all overripe. A fine example of Montmains with the vines averaging 35 years old. No barrels.
Alain Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	93	Appealing and fresh, with an intriguing whiff of white pepper (à la Grüner Veltliner). Plenty of weight here and very nice purity. A rather different take, would be great to enjoy with food. Crisp, zesty finish.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis	2022	93	Attractive sunny, warm notes on the nose, with a touch of white peach. Much more acidity and flintiness evident. A very high-quality Chablis which will benefit from several years ageing. Raveneau has two plots for its AP Chablis, one in a valley by Montmains, the other opposite Forêts; 1.1ha in total.
Domaine Yvon et Laurent Vocoret	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Bottled after nine months ageing on lees, this has a fine balance between ripe stone fruit on the palate and that attack of acidity and stony notes which keeps everything fresh. A complex Fourchaume that is already quite open and can be enjoyed now. The Vocoret family trace their Chablis roots back to 1713. They have 1.3ha of Fourchaume with the vines averaging 40 years of age.
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Concentrated and dense on the palate. Creamy notes, some oak here. Will be delicious once bottled. A fine expression of the warmer Vaudésir grand cru in this sunny vintage. Can be enjoyed relatively young. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Cool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre.
Domaine Roy, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	93	Cool, fresh and precise. A grand cru with direct acidity and purity on the palate. Not a blockbuster but very much a pedigree animal. Mineral notes are very evident on the finish. Needs a few years cellaring to add further complexity and show its best. A family estate based in Fontenay, dating back to 1810, with Claude, David and Karine the latest generation in charge. Domaine Roy has over 3ha of Bougros, with vines aged over 50 years old.
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Cool, restrained, nutty characters on the palate. A bit of wood is evident but there is plenty of balance and concentration to suggest this will develop very well once in bottle. Very good purity and ripeness of fruit. Tank sample.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Petit Chablis)	2022	93	Dauvissat's plot lies behind Les Clos which imparts an extra concentration to this fine petit chablis. Peachy fruit notes, zesty character with a fine thread of acidity on the long finish. A classy example which balances the ripeness of 2022 with classic Chablis minerality. Already bottled.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire 46	Chablis	2022	93	Dense and rich style with a hint of reduction on the nose. More peach fruit than the citrus seen in Brocard's other Chablis. Love the extra weight here, very classy and fine. Aged in wood (petit foudre of 15 hectolitres). Comes from a massale selection planted after the Second World War.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it's deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis	2022	93	Distinct shellfish notes. Plenty of volume, a fleshy sunny character on the palate, freshened by lingering salinity to finish. Top example of AP Chablis in 2022. From 40ha of vines, with three distinct plots, including one from a lovely vineyard to the east around Viviers, with vines planted in the 1960s, but all of the vines have plenty of age.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2022	93	Distinctive, creamy, almost lactic character on the nose. An intriguing Montmains but, at the moment, the fruit is a bit behind the acidity. Will need time. Lovely purity, not a blockbuster, but there is plenty of sunny ripeness. Located on the top of Montmains, with vines lying on thin soils over the bedrock in a windy area.
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2022	93	Domaine Long-Depaquit is the Chablis arm of the Bichot family. Vaucoupin is one of their signatures and in 2022 it shows a great combination of sun-ripened peach fruit on the palate, balanced by zesty acidity and a hint of white pepper. Lovely purity here. Manages to be both powerful and elegant at the same time. Already drinking nicely, this has the concentration to age very well.
Vincent Dampt	Chablis	2022	93	From the highly skilled Dampt clan based in Milly. Quintessentially Chablis, with focused acidity, subtle but distinct ripeness of apple and pear fruit, and a lingering minerality on the finish. Just what you would expect from Vincent Dampt.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Green tinge in the glass, touch of smokiness on the palate. Very fresh and precise. Lovely purity here with the edge of oak coming through.
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	I'd love to be a fly on the wall when the Dampt family get to compare wines. This has a bit of extra weight on the palate and a bit more roundness than brother Vincent's Vaillons. Chewy and with plenty of depth, this will age very well.
Domaine Séguinon-Bordet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Jean-François Bordet is the dynamic owner of this Maligny property. The estate's Fourchaume is always on point and this is true in 2022. Cool, restrained, youthful nose. Plenty of drive on the palate, but this will need up to 12 months to really open up. Lots of potential, though, with notes of white flowers, zesty acidity and a very appealing mineral edge to finish. Lovely.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Lovely fruit quality; weighty, ripe and powerful but balanced with citrus freshness. A little more approachable than Vaulorent for the moment. Blue and white clay adds extra depth.
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2022	93	Lovely sweetness of fruit, allied with the concentration expected from Chablis grand cru. Sunny and bright, but there is still lots of tension from the mineral notes and thread of acidity. Wood a bit evident at the moment but will settle down with time. This will be very fine once bottled and aged for a few years. Tank sample.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2022	93	Michel notes that his plot of Vaulorent lies on relatively thick clay soils; certainly plenty of force and substance is in evidence. A very complete example of this top premier cru, with excellent acidity, crispness and tension. Plenty of concentration and ageing potential. A marked flinty edge to finish.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Petit Chablis)	2022	93	Peachy fruit notes, zesty character with a fine thread of acidity on the long finish. A classy Petit Chablis which balances the ripeness of 2022 with classic Chablis minerality. Dauvissat's Petit Chablis plot lies behind Les Clos which imparts an extra layer of concentration.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	93	Plenty of concentration and class from this top, right bank site. Fleshy peach on the palate, there is a line of acidity to keep everything on track and a lovely mineral edge to finish. Suspect the final bottled wine will be extremely good. Tank sample.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	Plenty of density evident. A fine combination with concentration, a touch of smoke and richess on the palate, cut with direct acidity. Sunny and ripe yet remains fresh and focused. Will appeal when still relatively young but has the ability to age well.
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	93	Plenty of sun-ripened fruit evident on the palate, with freshening citrus acidity to keep all in check. Nice density here. Not an out and out blockbuster but refined, elegant and a grand cru which will develop very well over time. Tank sample.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru )	2022	93	Plenty of sweetness to the fruit, helped by the southwest exposure of the site. The vines lie on colder soils which, Vincent explains, warm up rapidly. Different colours of clay are found here. Should develop very nicely in bottle.
Charly Nicolle, Ante MCMLXXX	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2022	93	Plenty of warmth on the palate, which displays depth and concentration of fruit. There is an intriguing dash of white pepper then brisk acidity to finish. Highly appealing and classy example from this less well-known premier cru. Produced from vines planted between 1965 and 1975. Charly Nicolle runs this exciting domaine in Fleys, and is a young, dynamic Chablis producer to watch.
Lamblin & Fils	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	93	Racy acidity. Lots of minerality that rather dominates the ripe peach fruit character, but this will settle down over the next 18 months and the wine promises to be a fine Les Clos which will age well for up to a decade. Salty and white pepper notes on the finish. Fresh and very lively. Tank sample.
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Petit Chablis)	2022	93	Raveneau mature all its Petit Chablis in 400 and 500-hectolitre barrels. Plenty of interest here, with density of ripe stone fruit and very linear acidity. Undoubtedly a very high class Petit Chablis which focuses on precision and elegance.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2022	93	Showing a bit more richness at the moment, with wood character coming through. Thin 30cm soils above the limestone bedrock contribute to the finesse. Crisp citrus acidity, very much a thoroughbred but needs time.
Dampt Freres	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2022	93	Shows more of an herbal, slightly edgy style (to be expected from the unusual exposition of Blanchot). Plenty of zesty acidity here and no shortage of concentration on the palate. A classy result in this warmer vintage. Will benefit from a couple of years in bottle.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Shows richness and ripeness on the palate, countered by pretty strident acidity. Not quite at its best at the moment and likely needs 12 months in bottle. Should then open out and be a fine example.
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Starts ripe and fleshy in the mouth, then the minerality comes through. Fresh and direct, a very nicely balanced wine which, although approachable now, will age. The vines here lie on very steep slopes with full exposition to the sun. Early harvesting is the key to freshness.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2022	93	Sunny, warm, toasty and plenty of acidity. A grand cru with power yet retains plenty of finesse and purity. Partly matured in barrel, the oak is certainly evident, although Olivier Bailly says the wood will virtually disappear after a year in bottle.
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	93	There is a deeper edge to the colour, with excellent concentration and ripeness on the palate. All this is cut with citrus acidity, finishing with a powerful mineral undertow. Loads of character. A powerful and distinctive Les Preuses. Purchased grapes from 60-year-old vines.
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2022	93	There is an excellent balance between rich, honeyed notes and very crisp, clean acidity. Stony edge to the finish. This is approachable now but really needs several years. From four parcels, part of the blend is matured in barrel, the rest in tank. Will be bottled in January 2024.
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2022	93	Tight and precise on the palate, this will really benefit from additional time in bottle. Flint allied to peach underneath. Bright, vibrant acidity, give this at least 12 months. In Forêts, the bedrock is only 1m below the surface, with much rockier soils.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2022	93	Valmur is a colder valley, with the effect being that there is much more minerality evident. Focused and perfumed, drive and tension on the palate. Intriguing notes of orange zest add further interest. 40% of the blend is aged in barrel. Saline notes to finish; there is a lot going on.
Charlène & Laurent Pinson	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2022	93	Very aristocratic and elegant example of the cru. Not the richest in terms of fruit weight, yet this has great finesse on the palate with stone notes allied to bright citrus acidity on the finish. Very long in flavour. Classy and lots of ageing potential.
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2022	93	Very cool, elegant and with lovely purity on the palate. Acidity is the dominant player at the moment but give this 18 months in bottle before broaching. Fine texture, a really elegant expression.
Domaine Laroche, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	Very precise Vaillons with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the palate, balanced by a fine line of zesty lime acidity. Just a hint of lees ageing/touch of oak here? All in all, a very classy, refined and long-living example of this premier cru.
Domaine William Fèvre, Les Lys	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2022	93	With its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.
Domaine Pinson Freres	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2022	93	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Dating back to 1640, Pinson Freres (now with Laurent's daughter Charlene in charge) is producing exciting and dynamic Chablis. Plenty of appeal with the ripe, pure stone-fruit offset by crisp lime/lemon acidity. Finesse and elegance on the palate and a nice stony edge on the finish. A fine example of Forêts. Could be enjoyed now but has the concentration to age.
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2022	93	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Another fine premier cru from Domaine des Malandes in 2022. Vines were planted in 1980 by the domaine on the steep slopes of Vau de Vey, overlooking Beine. Partially aged in oak barrels, this adds an extra dimension to the concentrated palate. A fine example with plenty of acidity to balance the ripeness of fruit. Should age very well.
Domaine Vincent Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2022	93	TOP-VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Vincent Dampt (grandson of Jean Defaix) trained in Beaune and the Jura before spells with Olivier Leflaive and in Marlborough. A typical example of Côte de Léchet, from old vines in Milly. This has weight on the palate with lots of generosity and purity and cut precisely with a fine line of lemon/lime acidity. Very finely poised and an impressive advert for this premier cru.
Domaine Gueguen	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2022	93	PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Celine (daughter of Jean-Marc Brocard) and husband Frédéric, run this exciting operation in Prehy. Their Les Preuses is produced from grapes purchased from Sébastien Dauvissat. A very refined and concentrated example. Sun ripened peach fruit adorns the palate yet this retains a precision and elegance which bodes well for the future. Fermented and matured in oval steel tanks.
Domaine Gérard Tremblay	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2022	93	TOP VALUE. Gerard Tremblay and his wife Hélène own this 37ha domaine. Cool notes on the nose and palate - just a hint of lanolin and some green apple characters. Plenty of concentration on the palate though with acidity and a fine stony finish adding lots of drive and complexity. A classy and distinctive Fourchaume.

Chablis 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

DBR Lafite in talks to buy Chablis producer William Fèvre from Artémis

Rupert Millar — Thu, 06 Jul 2023 13:12:05 +0000

Artémis Domaines, the owner of Château Latour, said that having received ‘several offers’ it had finally entered into ‘exclusive negotiations’ with fellow Bordeaux first growth owner Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite (DBR Lafite).

DBR Lafite was chosen because it is a family-owned company and has been a ‘symbol of excellence in French winemaking for over 150 years’, Artémis Domaines said.

Saskia de Rothschild, CEO of DBR Lafite, said, ‘We would be truly honoured to write a new chapter in the history of Domaine William Fèvre whose iconic terroir, with Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Chablis Village plots, and a history of producing great white wines for generations, together with a strong investment in sustainable development, convinced us to continue our winemaking story towards this more northern region.

‘Wines from the Chablis vineyards are magical: we really hope we can soon learn from this terroir and ecosystem whose development we have admired over the recent years and whose vigneron approach and family style we love.’

William Fèvre joined the Artémis portfolio in September last year after the company, owned by François Pinault and family, merged its wine assets with those of the Henriot family. The Pinault family took a majority stake in the new entity, which retained the Artémis name.

This deal came hot on the heels of Artémis taking a minority stake in Champagne Jacquesson (also in 2022). The group also bought Burgundian Grand Cru monopole Clos de Tart in 2018.

The deal with Maisons & Domaines Henriot also brought Burgundy producer Bouchard Père et Fils into the Artémis stable, as well as Maison Henriot in Champagne and Beaux-Frères in Oregon – adding to the company’s international group of fine wine estates.

At the time, François Pinault said, ‘The merger of Maisons & Domaines Henriot and Artémis Domaines is a wonderful opportunity to bring together the treasures of our wine heritage under the same banner.’

However, less than a year later and the group is seeking to offload one of the key estates from its merger.

William Fèvre is one of the larger producers in the northern Burgundian appellation of Chablis, with 78 hectares (ha) of vineyards, 15.9ha of which are classified Premier Cru and 15.2ha as Grand Cru.

As well as estates in Chile (Viña Los Vascos), Argentina (Bodegas CARO) and China (Domaine de Long Dai), DBR Lafite’s French holdings include five estates in Bordeaux and one in the Languedoc; Domaine d’Aussières.

Except for Château Rieussec in Sauternes, it is a portfolio heavily focused on red wines. Acquiring a prestigious Burgundian white wine estate was, therefore, likely a tempting proposition for DBR Lafite.

The transaction has not yet been finalised and would be subject to regulatory approvals.

Emma Watson launches wine-inspired Renais gin

Laura Foster — Tue, 02 May 2023 09:03:40 +0000

Emma Watson may have made her name as an actress and activist, however she has now returned to the family business and launched a gin with her brother Alex. Called Renais, the spirit’s roots are firmly set in Chablis, where their father Chris has owned vineyards for over 30 years.

The base spirit of Renais is made through the distillation of wine grape skins and lees, with some sourced from the family’s own Domaine Watson. Kimmeridgian limestone – the basis of the ground in Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru vineyards – has been distilled and combined with the grape distillate, with the intention of expressing the appellation’s terroir. Botanicals include pressed Chablis Grand Cru grapes, linden flowers, cubeb berries and acacia honey.

‘It certainly isn’t the easiest way to go about making a gin,’ declared Alex at the intimate launch. ‘I wanted to do something that no one had ever done: to capture the essence of a specific terroir, the uniqueness of Chablis, by drawing on the traditions, techniques and ingredients from the land, and embodying those characteristics in a gin.’

The result is a thoroughly modern gin, with floral notes of violets and spring blossom jumping out of the glass, accompanied by aromas of wet limestone, lemon and lime, thyme and clear juniper. The palate is initially soft and silky, with a clear lemon oil note before a slightly grippy, dry texture comes in on the mid-palate. Juniper, pine tree, violets and spicy black pepper are all present, before a mineral kick comes in on the finish.

It works well in a number of serves, from an aromatic G&T, through to delicate spritzes and Negronis.

The name Renais means rebirth, with a nod to sustainability through the use of salvaged grape skins. ‘Emma was very passionate about making it sustainable,’ explained Alex, with the gin also being made using solar-powered stills and coming in biodegradable mushroom packaging. Remaining carbon emissions are offset through wind farm initiatives in India.

‘To me, Renais is a family project – not only does the Chablis region evoke very special memories of growing up, I’ve loved having the opportunity to create something with my brother Alex,’ said Emma. ‘I’m particularly proud of upcycling grapes from vineyards – including my dad’s – to reduce waste and create something new.’

Domaine Watson consists of seven vineyards that total five hectares, with the land bought slowly by Chris with the help of his Burgundian friends. ‘I would go fishing with one of my friends all over the region, and eventually he said, “We need to find you a vineyard!” I bought my first one in 1991. My friends in the region would say to me “You’re a Burgundian who was unlucky enough to be born English!”’.

An inaugural special release of the gin is now available. The next batch will be on sale in June (£45, 70cl, 40% abv). See the Renais website.

AOP Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 12:15:58 +0000

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2021 score table – notes for all wines scoring 92 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | Petit Chablis | Top-value Chablis

AOP Chablis 2021

Size: 3,702 hectares

In 2021, Chablis is a distinct step-up from Petit Chablis, with more concentration, fruit profile sometimes favouring greener apple and zesty citrus fruit, with some showing a slightly riper stone-fruit note. What marks most Chablis out from Petit Chablis is the density on the palate, firm acidity and the slightly smoky, mineral and saline notes which keep the palate fresh.

The key difference between Chablis and Petit Chablis is the Kimmeridgean soils (dating back to the Jurassic period) which give most Chablis wines their distinctive palate profile. The limestone/clay soil is often rich in fossilised marine deposits, giving Chablis extra complexity, the ability to age and fine acidity on the finish. The majority of Chablis will be unoaked, with an increasing number of estates now producing (excellent) organic versions.

2021 vintage

The winter of 2020-21 was generally milder and wetter than normal, with a particularly mild spell around Easter (29 March to 3 April). This accelerated activity in the vines which meant that the devastating polar air which descended between 6-9 April, had a much more drastic effect. At Domaine Fevre, yields for AP Chablis were reduced from a normal level in excess of 50hl/ha to just 18hl/ha. Temperatures were below average in April, May, July and August, with rainfall higher than normal in May and July. Mildew (and later in the season rot) were additional problems for growers.

Despite the climate issues, many estates have produced fine examples of AP Chablis, which will appeal to fans of a more ‘classic’ style of Chablis with plenty of acidity, citrus-fruit and mineral notes on the palate, and a lack of obvious oak influence.

It is well worth looking out for Vielles Vignes bottlings (Domaine Paul Nicolle, Domaine Mosnier) – many of these offer a significant step up in concentration and weight, whilst some lieux dit wines, e.g. Lavantureux’s Vauprin are memorable.

Two of the top examples of 2021 AP Chablis come from Domaine Droin and the largest owner within this appellation – Domaine William Fevre.

Top-scoring AOP Chablis 2021

The below wines all scored 91 points or above.

If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021 homepage

Chablis 2021: top-value wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 11:09:38 +0000

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2021 score table – notes for all wines scoring 92 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis | Petit Chablis

Chablis 2021 was a vintage where challenging weather conditions has had a drastic effect on volumes. At the same time, global demand for the wines of Burgundy has continued to grow, resulting in significant upward price pressures. Despite much higher volumes in 2022, it is unlikely to see prices for Chablis falling.

However, Chablis still offers great value for money across all of the different quality tiers.

Petit Chablis provides a fine introduction to the crisp, dry style of the region, although prices are significantly higher than 2018, 2019 and 2020. AP Chablis represents a big step up in concentration, with the impact of Kimmeridgean soils showing through in the majority of wines with additional notes of gunflint, salinity and mineral characters to finish.

These are wines which (in general) will drink well from now but should have the structure and acidity to provide plenty of enjoyment over several years.

Premier Cru Chablis (as with Grand Cru) continues to offer remarkable value in comparison to equivalent wines from the Côte d’Or. With a minimal (or no) use of oak, Premier Cru Chablis really do emphasise individual terroirs and, with less overt fruit ripeness and weight as a result of the cool 2021 vintage, this is a vintage to explore the differences between the left- and right-bank vineyards.

The finest wines are to be found in Montée de Tonnerre and Vaulorent but for value look at the less ‘fashionable’ Premier Crus of Côte de Léchet, Vau de Vey, Vaucoupins and Vosgros – the latter sometimes described as a left-bank Premier Cru with right-bank exposure.

At the top of the Chablis quality tree comes Grand Cru, with Les Clos the largest in area and commanding the highest prices. Although increasing substantially in the last couple of years, Grand Cru from Bougros, Valmur and Blanchot will be much more keenly priced.

Sadly, wines from certain domaines (Francois Raveneau, Vincent Dauvissat) are only available on allocation, whilst those from William Fevre are certainly not cheap.

Fortunately, there are many fine wines from estates such as Billaud-Simon, Louis Michel, Louis Moreau, Roy and Long-Depaquit which will offer great value.

10 of the best

Domaine Gerard Tremblay, Petit Chablis

Domaine Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis

Domaine Roland Lavantureaux, Chablis Vauprin

Domaine Celine et Frederic Gueguen, Chablis

Maison Stephane Brocard, Chablis Vielles Vignes

Domaine Dupre, Chablis

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Vielles Vignes

Domaine Vincent Dampt, 1er Cru Les Vaillons

Domaine Les Malandes, 1er Cru Les Montmains

Domaine Roy, 1er Cru Fourchaume

Top-value Chablis 2021 wines:

If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021 homepage

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 10:57:30 +0000

Chablis 2021: 4/5

‘Chablis 2021 is a vintage full of vibrant acidity, one which shows a particularly strong terroir influence, and has produced wines which will reward careful cellaring.’

Chablis 2021: wine of the vintage

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru

What a difference a year makes. When I visited Chablis in October 2021, many of the winemakers I spoke to were gloomy in the knowledge that although nature had given Chablis producers a high-quality and decent-quantity vintage in 2020, this had been followed by one of the most difficult for many years.

But in my most recent visit, the worried expressions had been replaced with smiles as winemakers proudly showed the fruits of their labours – a Chablis vintage which is the first since 2017 to fully demonstrate the ‘classical’ elements that make this wine so distinctive.

Scroll down to see Andy Howard MW’s top-scoring Chablis 2021 wines

Chablis 2021 is a vintage full of vibrant acidity, one which shows a particularly strong terroir influence, and has produced wines which will reward careful cellaring. Compared with the warmer, ‘solar’ vintages of 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2022, the 2021 vintage was distinctly cool and was afflicted by many climatic challenges.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Credit: Maggie Nelson

Taste the terroir

In late April, ‘black’ frost swept down from the high plateaus around the region, decimating certain vineyards. Flowering was poor and the very cool weather, combined with high rainfall in much of the growing season, reduced yields. Oidium, mildew and, at the end of the season, rot were all prevalent in the vineyard. Many producers saw yields fall by 50%.Benoît Droin (Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin) confirmed that his Petit Chablis crop was down 80%. However, Chablis producers are used to difficult growing seasons and are quite philosophical; when I met Louis Moreau a year ago, he observed that ‘2021 is perhaps not so bad – if we were in the Jura we would probably have no crop at all’. The other major downside to 2021’s very low yields is that this has come at a time when demand for Chablis continues to grow, with significant upward pressure on prices.

Paul Espitalié, director of Maison Simonnet-Febvre and president of the Chablis Commission within the Bourgogne regional wine board, noted: ‘2021 Chablis is a classic vintage with the cooler conditions giving terroir-focused wines which will age well.’ Espitalié described the differences during the last three harvests: ‘In 2020, we just watched the grapes arrive at the winery – they were so healthy there was nothing to do. In 2022 it has been similar. Yet in 2021, we needed to have a large team in place with many vibrating sorting tables – we had to reject many of the grapes.’

Other winemakers made similar comments. Didier Séguier, managing director of Domaine William Fèvre – the largest owner of [non-cru] AP Chablis vines with 47ha under vine – noted that in 2021 yields were down from an average of 50hl/ha to just 18hl/ha. Yet Séguier is very happy with the quality on show. Tasting the Fèvre range in 2021 gave a wonderful opportunity to see the variations between each individual Chablis climat – the differences between, for example, Vaulorent/Montée de Tonnerre and Montmains/Vaillons are vivid in 2021.

Guillaume Michel (Domaine Louis Michel) and Benoît Droin agreed. Michel’s focus on individual terroir differences has been amplified in 2021. Many Chablis producers choose to make a blend of the three different climats for their premier cru Montmains but, at Domaine Louis Michel, the individual characters of Butteaux, Fôrets and Montmain are displayed with great clarity: restrained Butteaux from dense white- clay soils; smoky/gunflint notes from the limestone-rich soils of Fôrets; and the riper stone fruit of Montmain.

Didier Séguier, Domaine William Fèvre (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Quality definition

Another difference between 2021 and the preceding vintages of 2019 and 2020, is that wines are less homogeneous and identifying the right producer is key. The estates who worked tirelessly in the vineyard during the unfavourable growing season, and were prepared to reject any grapes not up to their exacting standards, had the potential to make memorable wines.

Interestingly, there is a rapidly growing interest in adopting organic, and in some cases biodynamic viticulture. It might seem an odd thing to do in the marginal climate of Chablis, but the high quality of organic wines in 2021 was very apparent.

In 2019 and 2020, the differences between the quality designations were less distinct. In 2021 there are very clear steps in the quality ladder between Petit Chablis and Chablis, from Chablis to premier cru and then up to grand cru. However, there are many fine wines at both Petit Chablis and Chablis level, with potentially great wines at the top of the pyramid.

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Chablis: vintage styles

2021 A very challenging year in the vineyard with frosts, cold weather and high disease pressure. Yet the final result is a low-yield year with some very classical Chablis – high acidity, minerality, restraint and a strong terroir influence.

2020 Early but high-quality vintage with typical Chablis drive and freshness. Along with 2017, the best since 2014. A vintage to buy, and to keep the top wines carefully for drinking over five to 10 years.

2019 Some spikes of heat, but the grapes were very concentrated, giving Chablis wines with weight and the acidity to support the ripe fruit. Best sites will keep many years.

2018 Big harvest with a dry, hot summer leading to ripe grapes which lacked a bit of concentration but had plenty of fruit purity. Stone fruit characters more evident, less classic, relatively early drinking.

2017 A fine vintage, plenty of acidity, floral and mineral notes, and a lot more drive and intensity than in either 2016 or 2018. Vintage to keep.

Across 35 Petit Chablis wines, my average score was 88pts; for the 87 Chablis tasted it was 89. Of 135 premiers crus tasted the average was 91, while 43 grands crus averaged 93.

Within the premiers crus, the right-bank superstars of Montée de Tonnerre and Vaulorent stood out with two ‘gold’ awards each, yet Fôrets showed why this left-bank climat, particularly revered when in the hands of Vincent Dauvissat (as ‘La Forest’), is clearly comparable.

At grand cru level the results were even more impressive, with every wine scoring at least 90pts and 12 wines rated 95 and above. Les Clos and, perhaps surprisingly, Preuses stood out – the latter a truly aristocratic and elegant grand cru in this restrained, classical vintage. It may be hard to describe these wines as bargains, but in the context of fine wine pricing around the world, they do represent fantastic value and will give drinking pleasure for several decades.

Chablis 2021 score tables

Chablis 2021 score table – notes for all wines scoring 92 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis| Petit Chablis

Top-value Chablis

Anticipated release: Howard’s top-scoring Chablis 2021

The following 37 wines all scored 94 points and above.

Petit Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 10:56:50 +0000

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2021 score table – notes for all wines scoring 92 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis

Top-value Chablis

Petit Chablis 2021

Size: 1,189 hectares

Created in 1944, the Petit Chablis appellation (AOP) is a great introduction to the crisp, fresh style of Chablis, at slightly lower prices. As with Chablis, only Chardonnay is permitted, with the vines relatively recently planted.

Petit Chablis comes from vineyards planted outside the delimited AOP Chablis area, and are nearly always found on younger, harder, Portlandien bedrock. These are also often found at higher elevations above the Kimmeridgean soils, for example the plateau above Les Clos Grand Cru. As a result, temperatures are cooler and vines are less exposed to the sun. Petit Chablis shares similar characters to Chablis, although in a more accessible, younger-drinking package.

2021 vintage

In 2021, stone-fruit notes were evident in most Petit Chablis with plenty of bright citrus acidity. These wines will be at their best in the next 18-24 months.

Petit Chablis provides an early-drinking example of the classic Chablis style, coming from younger vineyards as well as those planted on Portlandien bedrock.

Many of the best Petit Chablis vineyards are located at higher altitudes, for example above Les Clos Grand Cru. In 2021, these higher vineyards were particularly badly hit by the ‘black’ frost which swept down from the higher plateau on the 7th April. The rest of the season was challenging with cool weather and higher than average rainfall in May and July adding to disease pressure during the growing season. As with the rest of Chablis, the vintage was saved by drier weather in August and the end results are surprisingly good.

2021 Petit Chablis is lighter and fresher in style, with plenty of crisp acidity and lemon/citrus notes very evident.

The majority of Petit Chablis wines are ideal for drinking over the next 12-18 months but a couple of producers have made Petit Chablis which stand out in terms of additional concentration.

Look out for wines from Domaine Milcent in Chichee, Domaine Gerard Tremblay and Julien Brochard’s 7 Lieux Petit Chablis from vines planted above Cote de Lechet. Not surprisingly, Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat made particularly fine Petit Chablis, particularly in the context of this challenging vintage.

Top-scoring Petit Chablis 2021

The wines below all scored 90 points or above.

If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021 homepage

Premier Cru Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 10:55:47 +0000

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2021 score table – notes for all wines scoring 92 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis | Petit Chablis

Top-value Chablis

Premier Cru Chablis 2021

Size: 778 hectares

There are 40 Premier Cru climats (named vineyard sites) in Chablis. Yields are slightly lower (and minimum alcohol levels slightly higher) than Chablis AOP. The key factors for Premier Cru Chablis are their ability to age, the way they shine a light on distinctive terroirs, and value for money (when compared with village/premier cru wines from the Cote d’Or).

Some Premier Cru Chablis may use a small proportion of wine matured in older wooden vessels in the blend but many producers, for example Domaine Louis Michel, believe that only stainless-steel vinification and ageing allows the terroir to be highlighted.

2021 vintage

In 2021, the cooler, less-ripe character of the vintage seems to have allowed individual differences between climats to be shown to an even greater extent. On the left-bank of the Serein river, Vaillons shows plenty of vibrant acidity whilst Foret matches the grandest Premier Crus from the right-bank.

It is on the right-bank though, where the majesty of certain sites are shown – Mont de Milieu, Montée de Tonnerre and, particularly, Vaulorent, are exceptional this year.

Premier Cru Chablis has become more expensive over the past few vintages but this appellation still offers great value when compared with village and Premier Cru wines from the Côte d’Or. Nearly all Premier Crus will benefit from further careful cellaring and should drink well for 3-5 years. Côte de Léchet, Sechet and Vau de Vey don’t usually command the higher prices of Montée de Tonnerre and Valuorent, but seemed to be very successful in 2021.

In addition to Francois Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat, Domaine’s J-P et Benoit Droin, Louis Michel and William Fevre all produced a fantastic range of Premier Cru wines.

Top-scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2021

The wines below all scored 93 points and above.

If we have awarded ‘Top value’ to an as-yet unpriced wine, it is based on our predicted pricing.

Chablis 2021 homepage

Grand Cru Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 10:54:37 +0000

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Score tables

Chablis 2021 score table – notes for all wines scoring 92 points and above

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

ALSO

Individual appellation analysis and their top-scoring wines:

Grand Cru Chablis | AOP Chablis | Petit Chablis

Top-value Chablis

Grand Cru Chablis

Size: 102 hectares

At the top of the Chablis quality pyramid lies Chablis Grand Cru – not 7 different appellations but different expressions of the one Grand Cru – Bougros, Preuses, Valmur, Grenouilles, Vaudesir, Blanchot and Les Clos. La Moutonne is an unofficial eighth climat which was overlooked when the appellation laws were set. Many producers use a higher proportion of oak for the Grand Cru (but hardly ever any new wood) given the wines concentration and ability to age. Grand Cru Chablis can be broached whilst young but most wines will benefit from 5-10 years careful cellaring and will repay this with stone-fruit and zesty citrus notes, together with a complex, layered texture on the palate, vibrant acidity, and mouth-watering notes of crushed rocks and salinity on the finish.

2021 vintage

In 2021, acidity was marked but this will gradually soften with bottle age. Les Clos and Preuses seem to have performed very strongly this year.

Although the Grand Cru vineyard was threatened by the devastating frosts in early April, this is where the most comprehensive protection systems are to be found in Chablis. Olivier Bailly (Domaine Billaud-Simon) spent four nights in the vineyard lighting candles (bougies), trying to prevent frost damage.

Some producers were more successful than others and the siting/exposition of vines within the differing lieux-dit, meant frost damage varied between individual estates and vineyards.

As with Premier Cru, Chablis Grand Cru still offers remarkable value for money when compared to the Cote d’Or.

The additional concentration, together with a little more oak maturation in the majority of cases, has worked very well in 2021 to give vibrant, fresh wines which will develop very well in bottle and drink beautifully for up to a decade.

At the very top of the tree, Les Clos Grand Cru from Raveneau, Vincent Dauvissat, Droin and Louis Michel are remarkable wines in the context of this very challenging vintage.

These are thoroughbred wines to lay down and enjoy over many years.

Top-scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2021

Chablis 2021 homepage

Chablis 2021

Decanter Staff — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 10:22:21 +0000

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Read in-depth expert analysis by Andy Howard MW plus see 300 wine tasting notes and scores from the Chablis 2021 vintage.

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW's top Chablis 2021 recommendations...

CHABLIS 2021 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 119 wines all with 92 points or above.

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GRAND CRU CHABLIS 2021 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 42 Grand Cru wines tasted.

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PREMIER CRU CHABLIS 2021 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 132 Premier Cru wines tasted.

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APPELLATION OVERVIEWS

Grand Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Decanter Staff — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 09:54:51 +0000

After tasting more than 300 Chablis 2021 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see notes and scores for all 43 Chablis Grand Cru 2021 wines tasted.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	96	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER A very rich, regal, memorable grand cru displaying a glorious combination of richness, acidity, flavours of ripe peach, a touch of honey, citrus zest and finishing with mineral, saline notes. A crystalline example of Clos, spice notes build on the aftertaste. Very fine, this will last decades. Raveneau holds 0.5ha in the Clos climat, with an average vine age of 45 years – the four plots are located at different levels, with vines of varying ages. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	96	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Clean, fresh, driven and with great purity, this balances soft, ripe peach fruit, a dash of lemon/lime zest and a saline character on the very long finish. Super concentrated, elegant and precise, this restrained, less showy, Les Clos will be exceptional in 5-10 years. Louis Michel's plot lies in the western part of Les Clos, halfway up the slope on blue clay soils. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	96	WINE OF THE VINTAGE & TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Understated in comparison to its much more dynamic, weighty Les Clos, Dauvissat's Preuses is a very fine white wine and a great grand cru Chablis in this vintage. So much finesse here, almost delicate on the palate. Crystalline citrus fruit, a seemingly never-ending mineral edge to finish. Although all of the wine is aged in barrels, there is no trace of oak flavour, just the additional complexity that the wood seems to bring to the texture of the wine. Outstanding. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	96	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Weighty, profound and rich, this is a stunning Les Clos which has an extra level of depth and richness that would please many a Côte-d'Or fan. White flowers on the nose, spice and stone fruit on the palate with 40% oak and a lingering, freshening mineral undertow. A grand cru with gravitas that will drink for 15-20 years. Droin has 1.4ha with vine age averaging 40 years. Its plots are located in various sectors of the cru with some lower down in the western sector, and part on the blue clay soils on the mid-slope. Click to see full details
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Brocard's 7 Lieux Grand Cru Preuses is a magnificent wine in the making. Although there is plenty of ripeness on display this regal grand cru is cool, crisp and supremely elegant. An aristocratic feel here, with great focus and lingering minerality to finish. From Domaine Brocard vines, all the components are in place to allow this to develop glacially for 15-20 years. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Quite a different, cool, fresh character on the nose. Louis Moreau always aim to pick early to preserve freshness. Lemon-lime citrus characters dominate the palate giving lots of vibrant acidity, balancing the concentrated fruit notes and providing a great backdrop for future ageing. Needs a two or three years to settle in bottle, and it's a keeper. Click to see full details
Domaine Roy	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	95	UNDER THE RADAR A very elegant Bougros which matches the ripeness of this full sun site with great acidity and purity of flavour. There is lots of depth here with some zesty citrus characters and a stony, mineral thread in the background. Cleansing acidity on the finish. A grand cru which definitely shows its class, while managing to be both drinkable now yet have a long future ahead. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Côte de Bouguerots)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER The Cote de Bouguerots is a 2.1ha part of the Bougros climat, with some distinctive characteristics. On very steep slopes (up to 30%) the clay/gravel soils are low-yielding and lead to intense, ageworthy wines. Much more mineral in terms of both perfume and texture on the palate, citrus fruit is more to the fore here with plenty of acidity suggesting the wine needs several years in bottle before opening. Great precision and laser-like focus. A very fine Grand Cru. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	95	One of the domaine's standout wines, this immediately strikes you with its precision and clarity. Fevre's vines are from two different sites, with varying expositions - one lower down and facing south-east, the other high on the plateau. Great elegance with plenty of weight and concentration on the palate, full and fleshy. Grapefruit notes to the fore but plenty of mineral/saline notes on the long, persistent finish. A delicious, aristocratic grand cru. Fevre owns 2.5ha within Les Preuses. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	95	0.75ha in area, with average age of 40 years, Raveneau's Valmur is already highly appealing with a luscious, ripe and concentrated stone fruit character. Yet this is not all heavy but has great lift and acidity to give the wine wonderful freshness on the finish. A fine balance of ripe fruit and precision. A very fine example of Valmur Grand Cru which will age beautifully for many years. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	95	Ghislain Dauvissat insisted we tasted Clos before Preuses. Dauvissat's Les Clos shows all the power and weight which one would expect of this famous climat. Stone fruit, minerality, a long saline/salty finish. Very deep, very classy, this just needs around five years in which to mature before it will truly show its best. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	95	The vines for Louis Michel's Grenouilles are from a rocky, sunnier site higher up on the slope. The vines here always benefit from a gentle breeze, adding to the concentration coming from these 70-75 year-old vines. A very long, elegant and profound expression of Grenouilles. This has a fine balance between sweetness of ripe fruit and spice notes to finish. Click to see full details
Dampt Freres	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	94	A weighty Les Clos which shows a fine balance between the intensity of minerality and acidity, melding with some juicy, confit-citrus fruit on the palate. Oak is restrained and in balance with the wine. A classy and refined example from this, the largest, part of the grand cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	UNDER THE RADAR Appetising, refreshing grand cru which has the necessary layers of flavour and complexity. Attractive orange hints on the palate with sweetness of ripe fruit evident all washed down with lively acidity. There is an appealing hint of smoky reduction here. An understated and finely textured Preuses which can be approached quite early, but will age very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	94	Cool, understated with plenty of concentration and structure waiting to flesh out over the next three to five years. A restrained Les Clos with plenty of smoky characters emphasising the vibrant notes of orange zest on the palate. Very subtle wood adds to the complexity. A fine wine in the making and a very good result for new winemaker Louis Gimonnet. Click to see full details
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	Brooding nose with attractive hints of zesty grapefruit. Plenty of depth on the palate with vibrant acidity and a distinct fruit sweetness which is certainly not at all cloying. A fine example of Preuses Grand Cru which will shed its puppy fat and then be a fine bottle after five years maturation. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	Always a favourite in the Billaud-Simon line up, Preuses comes from a plot totalling 0.41ha, with the vines planted in 1949. A very elegant and polished grand cru. A lovely wine in 2021. No oak was used in the blend this year and the weight and concentration are very well supported by crisp acidity, with a mineral, saline edge to finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	As a comparison, Olivier Bailly poured the 2001 Presues. Here there is a light touch of wood here, perhaps making the palate seem slightly less precise than the 2021. More powerful, fuller and rounded on the palate. Certainly a fine grand cru with weight and intent (but I almost prefer the 2021)! Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	94	A 0.5ha site on the higher levels of Grenouilles, with average vine age of 60 years. The soils here are richer than those controlled by La Chablisienne, adding plenty of force to the Droin wine. Rich and rounded on the palate with notes of apricot/peach fruit, acidity and mineral notes are more restrained than in some of their other grand cru. A generous wine with masses of concentration and ageing ability. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2021	94	Some of the oldest vines in the domaine (85 years), Raveneau have 0.64ha in this east-facing grand cru. Quite a delicate Blanchot in 2021 - cool, fresh, great purity on the palate and so precise. There is also a hint of honey on the palate which adds to the complexity, with a fine mineral, salty note to finish. A very fine, elegant grand cru which will undoubtedly age very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	94	Brocard used one-year old used barrels here, adding richness and complexity to this Valmur. The wood needs another 18-24 months to fully integrate. Sweet, ripe, plush fruit combine beautifully with bright acidity to finish. Very classy. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	93	UNDER THE RADAR Warming, sunny and ripe fruit on the nose with a touch of marmalade/orange confit on the palate. Good weight, layers of flavour, a fine Preuses which will drink surprisingly well while still relatively young. Acidity is there to keep the whole in check. Click to see full details
La Chablisienne, Chateau Grenouilles	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	93	Fine Grenouilles from the La Chablisienne Co-op. Very precise and youthful, plenty of vibrant acidity here and medium weight on the palate. Should be a lovely Grenouilles to enjoy while (relatively) young. Flinty finish. Click to see full details
Louis Jadot	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	93	Touch of smoky oak on the nose. Crisp, fleshy and vibrant palate with the necessary acidity to keep the palate fresh. Can be broached quite young. Has concentration to age four to six years. Click to see full details
Louis Jadot	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2021	93	Crisp acidity supports this fine Blanchot. There is plenty of character on display here from this cooler, east-facing site. Lots of spice on the palate, with attractive zesty orange marmalade notes. An elegant, refined and focussed grand cru which will age very well for up to 10 years. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2021	93	Billaud-Simon's Blanchot is a fascinating example of this east-facing grand cru. A sunny site, there is certainly weight warmth on the palate, yet the soils, with a greater presence of white clay, contributes to a lighter style on the palate. Bailly noted that they often need to keep more leaf on the vines to protect from the sun in this warm location. 1/2 of their plots are in organic conversion. Citrus and grapefruit dominate the nose and palate. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	93	Nice example of Vaudésir which is rounded and showing lots of complexity already. White flowers on the nose, some stone-fruit characters on the palate combining with orange/grapefruit zest and some subtle hints of honey and acacia. Crisp and focussed acidity, Needs a coupe of years to really start to blossom. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	93	From a site of just over 1ha, Valmur is a colder site giving, as Dron says, a more masculine. Cool, closed on the nose, this will need a lot of time to open up. Oak is a little more apparent here, with very precise acidity. Very linear at the minute, a grand cru with a nose of white flowers, and a palate of great purity. This will need three to four years to open and will be hitting its stride in seven to eight. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	93	From a plot of 1.2 hectares, with south-facing exposition. Quite a delicate, elegant grand cru yet there is good volume on the palate, with lingering notes of subtle spices and bright acidity to keep the palate fresh. Around 50% of the blend was aged in older oak barres. This will need more time in bottle but will be a fine Vaudésir. Precise and long on the aftertaste with some precise mineral notes and a saline finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	More oak evident here, as expected, but this works well with the ripeness of the fruit, giving a generous, weighty edge to the Bougros Grand Cru. Acidity is in the background but there is enough to support the wine over the next four to six years. But drinking well already. Click to see full details
Domaine Ternynck	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	92	Quite a deep colour in the glass. Fresh, bright acidity on the palate which support the oaky flavours. Perhaps a little too much wood on show for my taste but some will like the extra element this gives. Needs another 12-24 months before broaching. Click to see full details
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	92	There is a creamy, almost lactic edge to this Vaudésir. Cut through with plenty of citrus acidity and a hint of oak. At the moment, it's not the most harmonious grand cru but this has the concentration to age very well and could easily warrant a higher score in two to three years. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	92	Good combination of rich, concentrated fruit on the palate and some attractive, well-judged oak. A Vaudésir showing plenty of crisp acidity to keep the palate fresh. Should be ready to drink quite early but has the depth to age well. Click to see full details
Domaine Joseph Drouhin	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	92	Subtle, understated on both nose and palate. Good density here but not so easy to see that this is a Grand Cru Les Clos. A classy Chablis yet this Les Clos lacks a bit of a terroir spark for me. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	92	Quite a lot of oak on show at the moment, give this several years to let the wood settle. There is nice concentration here and a fine line of acidity so this Les Clos should evolve with further ageing in bottle and drink well for five to eight years. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	More oak character is apparent with the Bougros, allied to plenty of palate weight and a touch of spice and appealing orange marmalade hints on the palate. In 2021 there were just two barrels, produced with bought in grapes. Nice structure underneath. Good potential here and a grand cru which will be attractive a bit earlier than some. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	92	The grapes for Billaud-Simon's Les Clos come from a long-term contract. However, they replanted in 2017 and will soon be producing domaine Les Clos. Quite a warm take on Les Clos and not the most refined. Full and generous in the mouth, there is plenty of acidity but some of the elements seem to be fighting each other at the moment. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	92	Droin's Vaudésir comes from just over 1ha with vines planted on both north- and south-facing slopes. A little subdued on the nose and palate, this is a subtle grand cru with plenty of definition, and will blossom with two to three years additional bottle age. No oak. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	Fevre's Bougros covers around 50% of the whole Bougros climat. With it's westerly location in the grand cru, Bougros is often a warmer site and once can taste the sweetness to the fruit here, beautifully balanced by 2021's acidity. Although not the weightiest, showiest or most concentrated grand cru, there is lots to like, with notes of grapefruit, a touch of citrus zest and excellent acidity. With good volume in the mouth, this finishes very fresh. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	92	There is always lots of freshness from this 1.15ha site, high up in Valmur, close to the forest. The soils here are a deeper clay-limestone than many others in the grand cru. Fevre's Valmur shows plenty of sweetness to go with the rich palate feel. There are no harsh edges here and this is surprisingly approachable already. Good volume in the mouth, with ripe stone fruit notes which are not at all cloying. Will gain complexity with age. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	Plenty of weight on the palate of this Bougros, with a mineral, salty edge adding an extra freshness to the finish. Wood is a little more evident on the palate. Fleshy, quite warm in the mouth, this will provide relatively early pleasure for a grand cru. Click to see full details
Charly Nicolle	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	91	Perhaps quite early picked given the 12.5% alcohol. Quite a lean style on the palate. No issue with the freshness and crisp acidity but there is a slight lack of depth and complexity for me. A precise, pleasing Bougros and a fine food wine to accompany richer seafood dishes. Click to see full details
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	90	Perhaps a little more baked than I would hope for from the Grenouilles site. Weighty, smooth, a touch of ripe fruit sweetness and just enough acidity to balance. I suspect this may not have the acidity to keep an extended amount of time but generous now. Click to see full details

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring Petit Chablis 2021 wines

Chablis 2021 score table

Decanter Staff — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 09:54:30 +0000

After tasting more than 300 Chablis 2021 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 119 wines all with 92 points or above.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	96	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER A very rich, regal, memorable grand cru displaying a glorious combination of richness, acidity, flavours of ripe peach, a touch of honey, citrus zest and finishing with mineral, saline notes. A crystalline example of Clos, spice notes build on the aftertaste. Very fine, this will last decades. Raveneau holds 0.5ha in the Clos climat, with an average vine age of 45 years – the four plots are located at different levels, with vines of varying ages. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	96	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Clean, fresh, driven and with great purity, this balances soft, ripe peach fruit, a dash of lemon/lime zest and a saline character on the very long finish. Super concentrated, elegant and precise, this restrained, less showy, Les Clos will be exceptional in 5-10 years. Louis Michel's plot lies in the western part of Les Clos, halfway up the slope on blue clay soils. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	96	WINE OF THE VINTAGE & TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Understated in comparison to its much more dynamic, weighty Les Clos, Dauvissat's Preuses is a very fine white wine and a great grand cru Chablis in this vintage. So much finesse here, almost delicate on the palate. Crystalline citrus fruit, a seemingly never-ending mineral edge to finish. Although all of the wine is aged in barrels, there is no trace of oak flavour, just the additional complexity that the wood seems to bring to the texture of the wine. Outstanding. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	96	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Weighty, profound and rich, this is a stunning Les Clos which has an extra level of depth and richness that would please many a Côte-d'Or fan. White flowers on the nose, spice and stone fruit on the palate with 40% oak and a lingering, freshening mineral undertow. A grand cru with gravitas that will drink for 15-20 years. Droin has 1.4ha with vine age averaging 40 years. Its plots are located in various sectors of the cru with some lower down in the western sector, and part on the blue clay soils on the mid-slope. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER As expected with Montée de Tonnerre, there are great reserves of power and energy here. Concentrated, fine and with great purity, oak adds subtle extra dimensions in the background. Lovely acidity and a touch of spice to finish. Great class. Raveneau's Montée de Tonnerre is over 3ha in area, accounting for around 1/3 of the estates holdings. Around 1.8ha are located on the mid-slopes of Chapelot. with 1.2ha at higher altitude in Pied d'Aloup which adds additional freshness and vivacity. Click to see full details
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Brocard's 7 Lieux Grand Cru Preuses is a magnificent wine in the making. Although there is plenty of ripeness on display this regal grand cru is cool, crisp and supremely elegant. An aristocratic feel here, with great focus and lingering minerality to finish. From Domaine Brocard vines, all the components are in place to allow this to develop glacially for 15-20 years. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER Quite a different, cool, fresh character on the nose. Louis Moreau always aim to pick early to preserve freshness. Lemon-lime citrus characters dominate the palate giving lots of vibrant acidity, balancing the concentrated fruit notes and providing a great backdrop for future ageing. Needs a two or three years to settle in bottle, and it's a keeper. Click to see full details
Domaine Roy	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	95	UNDER THE RADAR A very elegant Bougros which matches the ripeness of this full sun site with great acidity and purity of flavour. There is lots of depth here with some zesty citrus characters and a stony, mineral thread in the background. Cleansing acidity on the finish. A grand cru which definitely shows its class, while managing to be both drinkable now yet have a long future ahead. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER One of the Dauvissat specialities, the La Forest is a triumph in 2021. From seven small parcels, the total site is less than 1ha with average vine age more than 40 years. Intriguing, slightly smoky nose, highly distinctive and different to others in the range. Plenty of power, ripe stone fruit flavours, zesty citrus acidity with a herbaceous edge adding an extra dimension. Definitely of grand cru quality. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Côte de Bouguerots)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER The Cote de Bouguerots is a 2.1ha part of the Bougros climat, with some distinctive characteristics. On very steep slopes (up to 30%) the clay/gravel soils are low-yielding and lead to intense, ageworthy wines. Much more mineral in terms of both perfume and texture on the palate, citrus fruit is more to the fore here with plenty of acidity suggesting the wine needs several years in bottle before opening. Great precision and laser-like focus. A very fine Grand Cru. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	95	Droin owns 0.33ha in the renowned premier cru of Vaulorent. Benoît notes the higher incidence of limestone in the soils, giving more a more aromatic profile, great length and purity. Although the Droin premiers crus are all lovely wines, this is a distinct step up – a premier cru Chablis which would grace any table along with the world's finest wines. Filigree, precise acidity on the palate – delicate, very refined, yet a wine which will last a very long time. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	95	One of the domaine's standout wines, this immediately strikes you with its precision and clarity. Fevre's vines are from two different sites, with varying expositions - one lower down and facing south-east, the other high on the plateau. Great elegance with plenty of weight and concentration on the palate, full and fleshy. Grapefruit notes to the fore but plenty of mineral/saline notes on the long, persistent finish. A delicious, aristocratic grand cru. Fevre owns 2.5ha within Les Preuses. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	95	Droin's vines have an average age of 50 years with 1.75ha on Kimmeridgian marl with some blue-clay (Marne-bleu). As expected from Montée de Tonnerre, this has more power on the palate but also displays a remarkable balance between weight and elegance - 'complet' as Benoit Droin says. It would be a shame to drink this before 2-3 years and it will keep a very long time. Finishes with a vibrant hit spicy zesty fruit. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	95	Fevre's Vaulorent is just a little more precise on the nose. Seguier says it is always elegant, always fresh. Fevre's take on this renowned premier cru has an understated nose yet you can feel the power within. Lovely ripeness of fruit, but all in a very compact package at the moment. Although this is disarmingly approachable now, this will be a wine to cellar carefully, allowing all the perfectly formed components to blossom. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	95	0.75ha in area, with average age of 40 years, Raveneau's Valmur is already highly appealing with a luscious, ripe and concentrated stone fruit character. Yet this is not all heavy but has great lift and acidity to give the wine wonderful freshness on the finish. A fine balance of ripe fruit and precision. A very fine example of Valmur Grand Cru which will age beautifully for many years. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	95	Ghislain Dauvissat insisted we tasted Clos before Preuses. Dauvissat's Les Clos shows all the power and weight which one would expect of this famous climat. Stone fruit, minerality, a long saline/salty finish. Very deep, very classy, this just needs around five years in which to mature before it will truly show its best. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	95	The vines for Louis Michel's Grenouilles are from a rocky, sunnier site higher up on the slope. The vines here always benefit from a gentle breeze, adding to the concentration coming from these 70-75 year-old vines. A very long, elegant and profound expression of Grenouilles. This has a fine balance between sweetness of ripe fruit and spice notes to finish. Click to see full details
Dampt Freres	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	94	A weighty Les Clos which shows a fine balance between the intensity of minerality and acidity, melding with some juicy, confit-citrus fruit on the palate. Oak is restrained and in balance with the wine. A classy and refined example from this, the largest, part of the grand cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	94	A very youthful Mont de Milieu. Winemaker Olivier Bailly noted that if you want to drink this young, make sure it is decanted for at least an hour. Greenish tint in the glass, aromas of white peach and pear. A premier cru cut with vibrant acidity, finishing with some mineral and saline notes. They own 3ha here, ranging from the bottom to the top of the Mont de Milieu slope. Has a very bright future. Click to see full details
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	UNDER THE RADAR Appetising, refreshing grand cru which has the necessary layers of flavour and complexity. Attractive orange hints on the palate with sweetness of ripe fruit evident all washed down with lively acidity. There is an appealing hint of smoky reduction here. An understated and finely textured Preuses which can be approached quite early, but will age very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	94	Cool, understated with plenty of concentration and structure waiting to flesh out over the next three to five years. A restrained Les Clos with plenty of smoky characters emphasising the vibrant notes of orange zest on the palate. Very subtle wood adds to the complexity. A fine wine in the making and a very good result for new winemaker Louis Gimonnet. Click to see full details
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	Brooding nose with attractive hints of zesty grapefruit. Plenty of depth on the palate with vibrant acidity and a distinct fruit sweetness which is certainly not at all cloying. A fine example of Preuses Grand Cru which will shed its puppy fat and then be a fine bottle after five years maturation. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	94	Always a favourite in the Billaud-Simon line up, Preuses comes from a plot totalling 0.41ha, with the vines planted in 1949. A very elegant and polished grand cru. A lovely wine in 2021. No oak was used in the blend this year and the weight and concentration are very well supported by crisp acidity, with a mineral, saline edge to finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2020	94	As a comparison, Olivier Bailly poured the 2001 Presues. Here there is a light touch of wood here, perhaps making the palate seem slightly less precise than the 2021. More powerful, fuller and rounded on the palate. Certainly a fine grand cru with weight and intent (but I almost prefer the 2021)! Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	94	A 0.5ha site on the higher levels of Grenouilles, with average vine age of 60 years. The soils here are richer than those controlled by La Chablisienne, adding plenty of force to the Droin wine. Rich and rounded on the palate with notes of apricot/peach fruit, acidity and mineral notes are more restrained than in some of their other grand cru. A generous wine with masses of concentration and ageing ability. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	94	A fine example of Les Lys. This is a great combination of the acidity from a cooler site plus the extra acidity from 2021, married with the richness and power of the marne dominated soils found here. Plenty of concentration and lots of depth here. A notable, and high quality, Les Lys. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	Fevre's Montée de Tonnerre comes from all three sectors. Seguier notes that Pied d'Aloup has the highest marn content, Montée de Tonnerre adds weight and the old Chapelot vines (planted in 1936) add finesse. More closed on the nose. Weighty, concentrated, persistent. Saline notes. Will be a great gourmand wine. Some white flower notes, lots of zesty orange and grapefruit on the palate with a nice touch of white peach. For long ageing. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	94	The average vine age here is 45 years, from a 1.5ha site in Butteaux which is higher up in the valley. Pronounced floral aromas of white peach and some slightly more exotic jasmine notes. Intensity on the palate with additional concentration from the old vines - a touch of dried stone fruit. A deep and profound premier cru which has a luscious palate whilst also managing to be supremely elegant yet also weighty and powerful. This will last many years. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2021	94	Some of the oldest vines in the domaine (85 years), Raveneau have 0.64ha in this east-facing grand cru. Quite a delicate Blanchot in 2021 - cool, fresh, great purity on the palate and so precise. There is also a hint of honey on the palate which adds to the complexity, with a fine mineral, salty note to finish. A very fine, elegant grand cru which will undoubtedly age very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2021	94	More herbal on the nose, this shows a hint of green characters - quite different to the other premiers crus in the range. Less fruit driven, more herbaceous. Plenty of focus and drive. A long future ahead, this needs two to three years minimum in order to settle. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	A very fine Montée de Tonnerre with power and concentration all wrapped up in a package which shows how classy the Dauvissat range is in 2021. Ripe stone fruit on the palate, precise acidity and some stony, smoky notes on the finish. Try and keep this for a decade if you can. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	94	Louis Michel's old-vine Butteaux comes from vines with an average age of 65 years (45 years in the 'standard' bottling). The soil here is white clay - very dense in texture and poorly drained. An excellent balance of power and richness here with lemon/lime notes on the palate, all kept taut and in line by the vibrant hit of acidity. This could compare favorably with many a grand cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	Louis Michel's Montée de Tonnerre comes from the south-west facing slopes of Chapelot. A more serious premier cru with extra density on the palate. Beautifully clean and fresh. This will need several years to blossom. Keep for another three to five years and then drink over the following decade. Delivers all that Montée de Tonnerre is renowned for. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	94	Tank sample. Brocard's Mont de Milieu is a fie combination of the plushness of Fourchaume with the directness of the left-bank. Zesty citrus on the palate with a presence of mineral characters and a touch of salinity which keep the palate focussed and lively. A fine example of this top premier cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	94	A fine, impressive Vaulorent which shows the very high quality of this premier cru. With plenty of weight and concentration Brocard's Vaulorent is an amalgam of all the best of the rest of the premiers crus - mineral, powerful and rich, with warm, ripe fruit on the palate and notable concentration. Very much like a grand cru, this will keep for many years. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	94	Brocard used one-year old used barrels here, adding richness and complexity to this Valmur. The wood needs another 18-24 months to fully integrate. Sweet, ripe, plush fruit combine beautifully with bright acidity to finish. Very classy. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	Brocard's 7 Lieux Montée de Tonnerre is a lovely, classy wine which displays richness, weight and concentration. All the components are here - stone-fruit, lime/lemon acidity and zestiness, a stony, salty follow through. Needs several years to blossom but will have a long future ahead. Click to see full details
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	93	TOP VALUE Produced from vines planted in 1963 by André Tremblay. An elegant and precise Montmains which achieves the balance between ripeness of fruit (more white peach here), crisp apple acidity and a fine, lingering mineral finish. A great example of this premier cru which will drink well for many years if carefully cellared. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	93	UNDER THE RADAR Warming, sunny and ripe fruit on the nose with a touch of marmalade/orange confit on the palate. Good weight, layers of flavour, a fine Preuses which will drink surprisingly well while still relatively young. Acidity is there to keep the whole in check. Click to see full details
Domaine Roy	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	TOP VALUE A very elegant, focused example of Fourchaume. Shows the expected weight on the palate yet this is all tempered by a fine line of acidity and a long, lingering, mineral finish. Domaine Roy makes some excellent Chablis and this is particularly good in the context of 2021. Click to see full details
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	UNDER THE RADAR As expected from Jean-Francois Bordet, this is a Fourchaume which balances power and precision. Intensity on the nose with notes of ripe apricot and pear fruit, whilst the palate balances this with a salty, mineral struck aftertaste all kept fresh by a fine line of acidity. A very classy effort in this tricky year. Click to see full details
La Chablisienne, Chateau Grenouilles	Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)	2021	93	Fine Grenouilles from the La Chablisienne Co-op. Very precise and youthful, plenty of vibrant acidity here and medium weight on the palate. Should be a lovely Grenouilles to enjoy while (relatively) young. Flinty finish. Click to see full details
Louis Jadot	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2021	93	Touch of smoky oak on the nose. Crisp, fleshy and vibrant palate with the necessary acidity to keep the palate fresh. Can be broached quite young. Has concentration to age four to six years. Click to see full details
Roland Lavantureux, Vauprin	Chablis	2021	93	TOP VALUE & UNDER THE RADAR The new generation arrived in 2010 with the arrival of David & Arnaud, following on from their father/grand-father. Roland first bottled his own wines in 1979 and the domaine has gone from strength to strength in recent years. Vauprin is a special selection on the hill of Vauprin, situated close to Lignorelles. Vines range from 20-80 years old and the parcel is 1.8ha in size. This AP Chablis is notable for the confident way in which oak is used (up to 50%, ranging from new to five-year-old). Lovely density on the palate allied to purity of fruit. Here, the oak really does add a lot of complexity but the Chablis character is still evident underneath. A very fine Chablis. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Sainte Claire Organic	Chablis	2021	93	Intriguing Chablis from this leading producer, based in Prehy. The kimmeridgian notes really come through here. Lovely concentration on the palate with weight and density. Plenty of acidity to balance the heft on the palate, all supported by a long, mineral finish with a slightly saline edge. Stands out compared to many other Chablis in this tasting. No hurry to drink this - it will improve with further ageing. Click to see full details
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	Cool, very appealing nose with just a hint of ripe fruit, with some apricot character on the palate which is not at all over the top. Freshened by a line of citrus acidity, there is plenty of purity and concentration here, despite the lowly 12.5% alcohol. A fine Fourchaume which will age. Click to see full details
Louis Jadot	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2021	93	Crisp acidity supports this fine Blanchot. There is plenty of character on display here from this cooler, east-facing site. Lots of spice on the palate, with attractive zesty orange marmalade notes. An elegant, refined and focussed grand cru which will age very well for up to 10 years. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	Olivier Bailly produces this Fourchaume from a blend of three inox barrels. The harvest started on 18 September but was then halted for four days as rain moved in to the region, before restarting on 22 September. Some extra volume here, with a winning combination of richness and freshness. Very appealing. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	93	With 2.15ha, a blend from three plots in Chapelot, Montée de Tonnerre and Pied d'Aloup, with vines in the latter now 87 years old. As expected of Montée de Tonnerre, this will need a lot of time to come round. Powerful, primary and concentrated, with restrained mineral, stony notes. Great purity here, salty finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2021	93	Billaud-Simon's Blanchot is a fascinating example of this east-facing grand cru. A sunny site, there is certainly weight warmth on the palate, yet the soils, with a greater presence of white clay, contributes to a lighter style on the palate. Bailly noted that they often need to keep more leaf on the vines to protect from the sun in this warm location. 1/2 of their plots are in organic conversion. Citrus and grapefruit dominate the nose and palate. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	93	Nice example of Vaudésir which is rounded and showing lots of complexity already. White flowers on the nose, some stone-fruit characters on the palate combining with orange/grapefruit zest and some subtle hints of honey and acacia. Crisp and focussed acidity, Needs a coupe of years to really start to blossom. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	93	Droin have a sizeable 4.8ha of Vaillons, with five plots in Epinottes, Roncieres, Sechet, Chatains and Beugnons. This is always a super reliable blend as Benoit is able to draw on plots which work well in hot and cold vintages. A very fine premier cru with pronounced notes of white flowers, crisp acidity, some generous zesty citrus and a hint of stone fruit. Long and classy. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	93	From a site of just over 1ha, Valmur is a colder site giving, as Dron says, a more masculine. Cool, closed on the nose, this will need a lot of time to open up. Oak is a little more apparent here, with very precise acidity. Very linear at the minute, a grand cru with a nose of white flowers, and a palate of great purity. This will need three to four years to open and will be hitting its stride in seven to eight. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	93	Didier Seguier says that this is from a sunny terroir but in a cold vintage. It is certainly very attractive with the acidity balancing, and complimenting, the generosity of the fruit. White flowers and a touch of pear/white peach on the palate. Very precise and nice mineral undertow. A really fine example, mostly from the Vaillon sector within the wider Vaillon Premier Cru. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	93	From a plot of 1.2 hectares, with south-facing exposition. Quite a delicate, elegant grand cru yet there is good volume on the palate, with lingering notes of subtle spices and bright acidity to keep the palate fresh. Around 50% of the blend was aged in older oak barres. This will need more time in bottle but will be a fine Vaudésir. Precise and long on the aftertaste with some precise mineral notes and a saline finish. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	93	Raveneau have 0.36ha in Montmains, with an average of of 35 years for the vines which are situated on shallow soils. An exciting, rounded and plush Montmains with notes of ripe peach fruit yet still very elegant and refined with a vibrant, fresh line of acidity. It almost feels as if one could drink this today. Very good volume in the mouth, lingering mineral finish. A very fine example of Montmains in 2021. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis	2021	93	Daivissat's Chablis parcel comes from two parcels - the smaller near Beine (0.6ha) and the much larger plot adjacent to Premier Cru Foret (2.5ha). Profound, concentrated, prominent lime/lemon zest on the palate, a touch of honey, confited citrus zest to finish. So long. A profound Chablis. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	93	Showing a warmer, fleshier and generous character, this Vaillons has plenty of acidity, floral characters and elegance with a long, fine, finish. Sappy and mineral, a finely textured premier cru which doesn't have quite the interest of Les Forêts or Séchet but is still very fine. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2021	93	Louis Michel's Les Forêts comes from a site where the bedrock of limestone lies very close to the surface. Notes of gun-flint are much more evident, with a touch of smoky, reductive characters. On the palate there are lime/lemon zest flavours. A very complex, interesting and appealing premier cru with no shortage of density, and one which will age very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	93	Another organic premier cru in the Brocard lineup, Butteaux shows some baked apple characters and crystalline lemon fruit on the palate with good volume and length. Elegant and refined, this will keep very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	93	Intriguing smoky character on the nose, Brocard's Montée de Tonnerre captures the essence of this top premier cru. Compact and concentrated on the palate, there is a fine combination of white flowers on the nose, stone fruit on the palate, powerful acidity and minerality. This really needs two to three years in bottle before broaching. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	93	A subtle, but quietly brooding Côte de Léchet, with white flowers on the nose, struck match note and more than a hint of the Côte d'Or about it. Natural yeasts used here, with the wine all aged in old foudres. Click to see full details
Domaine Besson	Chablis	2021	92	Slightly deeper in hue, this Chablis has plenty of depth and concentration on the palate, together with some ripe, stone fruit notes and crisp green apple characters to add freshness. A very supple and generous style, with lingering acidity on the finish. 12 months maturation in stainless steel has added to the wines depth. Plenty to enjoy here. Established in 1902, the estate is now in its fourth generation, with Alain Besson running the domaines with his two children (Camille & Adrien) since 2013. The estate covers just under 8ha. Click to see full details
Domaine Clotilde Davenne	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2021	92	A fine example of the less well-known Premier Cru Beauregard. An appealing blend of crisp acidity, mineral notes, attractive floral characters and some ripe apple/pear fruit on the palate. Finishes with a saline, savoury note. Very precise and would be a great food wine. Click to see full details
Domaine Dupré	Chablis	2021	92	TOP VALUE Complex, textured Chablis that has more dimensions than others in this vintage. Tank sample. Plenty of weight and concentration, will age well. Stands out from the crowd. From a family-run estate of 16.3ha in Courgis – the Dupré family are very focused on sustainable viticulture, with Alain and Valentin in charge of winemaking. Their Chablis comes from 14ha with vines aged between 10-70 years, planted at a density of 6,800 vines/ha. Aged for 12 months on fine lees in tank, with wild yeast used for the fermentation. Click to see full details
Domaine Gérard Tremblay	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Deep in colour, with a waxy note on both nose and palate suggesting a light addition of an oaked component. Plenty of concentration and complexity here with acidity and mineral on the finish to keep the palate fresh. Nicely judged, this will improve in bottle and keep well for three to four years. Click to see full details
Domaine Laroche, Le Vaillons Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Tank sample. Elegant and concentrated premier cru that has the florality and acidity associated with Vaillons, together with extra concentration from the old vines. Mineral and a touch of salinity on the finish. Elegant, complex wine. Click to see full details
Domaine Laurent et Céline Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2021	92	Cool, crisp palate with some confit-apple and pear fruit balanced by vibrant acidity. A complex, layered and fine premier cru which will blossom with aeration and additional bottle age. Lovely concentration here and a fine advert for this less well-known cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Paul Nicolle, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis	2021	92	TOP VALUE & UNDER THE RADAR Intriguing Chablis. The wood (the wine is aged 8-12 months on lees with 10% in used barrels) does add extra depth and complexity to the wine, without it losing any Chablis character. Touch of spice on the finish along with lingering mineral notes. Based in the village of Fleys, the domaine dates back to the late 19th century. The largest holdings are of AP Chablis, and the Vieilles Vignes bottling comes from vines planted in the 1980s and '90s. Click to see full details
Domaine Vocoret	Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)	2021	92	Deep colour in the glass yet there is not much sign of oak on the nose. A Fourchaume with typical power and weight, yet cut with plentiful acidity and a flinty character on the finish. A fine example of L'Homme Mort in this less than easy vintage. Click to see full details
Eléonore Moreau, Pérégrinations	Chablis	2021	92	UNDER THE RADAR Tank sample. Plenty to like here with weight and crispness of fruit, allied to a mineral edge on the palate and good acidity. A terroir-driven wine. Plenty of time to enjoy this as it develops. I suspect the finished bottling will be even better than the tank sample. Click to see full details
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	An elegant, cool, Mont de Milieu. The ripeness is well in check with more of a green apple fruit character, supported by bright acidity and a lingering mineral background flavour. Precise. Will add a bit more weight and complexity with a year in bottle. Click to see full details
Sylvain Mosnier, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis	2021	92	TOP VALUE The Vieilles Vignes cuvée shows a lot more intrigue and concentration than the straight Mosnier Chablis. Fresh acidity, mineral undertones and a dash of zesty grapefruit bitterness all add to the freshness and drive here. A very nice example in 2021. This estate is located in Beine and is now run by the eighth generation of the family, Stéphanie Mosnier. The estate now holds HVE3 certification. Click to see full details
Roland Lavantureux, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis	2021	92	From south-west facing vines in the hills around Lignorelles, the vines were planted in the 1960's and cover 3ha. The wine is fermented in steel tanks, with 60% aged for 10-12 on lees in tank, and 40% in older wood. Doesn't have quite the richness of the Vauprin Chablis but this is still a very fine, pure expression of 2021. Lovely acidity and mineral notes compliment the grapefruit characters and ripe pear fruit on the palate. Complex and classy. No hurry to drink this. Click to see full details
Maison Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Always interesting to compare the Dampt brothers different takes on the same terroir. This is a little more focussed than Sebastien's but equally fine. Doesn't have the extra plushness but is very direct with plenty of acidity and minerality on the long finish. Click to see full details
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Les Lys)	2021	92	Cool, fresh, north-facing, Les Lys has a very different premier cru style to that of Vaillons. Plenty of power here, density and concentration on the palate with acidity and a stony character adding complexity to the finish. Les Lys is not encountered so often but this is a great introduction to the terroir. Click to see full details
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	92	Fine, very precise Côte de Léchet, which is a very different take to the Vaillons Premier Cru. Plenty of bite here with green apple notes allied with crisp acidity and a fine mineral follow through. Very obviously Premier Cru Chablis and a fine effort in this vintage. Click to see full details
Domaine Simonnet Febvre	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	92	Established in 1840, Simonnet-Febvre became part of Maison Louis Latour in 2003, with a new winemaking facility in Chitry. This is a precise, clean and fresh Côte de Léchet with plenty of vibrant apple fruit, intermingled with some slightly more exotic notes. Nice spice on the finish. No hurry to drink this although it is drinking well already. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix, Vieille Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	92	Oak more to the fore, nicely combined with concentrated fruit on the palate to balance. Crisp apple acidity provides lots of cleansing freshness, along with some zesty grapefruit/orange notes on the aftertaste. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	92	Brocard's Vau de Vey is a masterclass in balancing ripe fruit with concentration, set against fine acidity and some lovely mineral notes on the finish. Not a shy, retiring premier cru but a wine with lots of personality and plenty of upside potential. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	A very classy example of this leading right-bank premier cru. This Mont de Milieu shows a fine combination of weight and concentration whilst balancing this with plenty of lift, vibrant acidity and a long, stony finish. No hurry to drink, this should improve with another year in bottle. Click to see full details
Domaine Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	Gautheron's Mont de Milieu has good weight and concentration on the palate, allied with crisp acidity and a mineral undertow. Precise, direct yet appealing already. All the components are in place to allow this to age well. Click to see full details
Domaine Courtault Michelet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Touch of spiciness and a hint of exotic fruit on the palate suggest a small proportion aged in oak. Good texture and concentration here with enough acidity to keep the palate in check. Has the weight and power expected of Fourchaume. Will age well. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	More oak evident here, as expected, but this works well with the ripeness of the fruit, giving a generous, weighty edge to the Bougros Grand Cru. Acidity is in the background but there is enough to support the wine over the next four to six years. But drinking well already. Click to see full details
Domaine Ternynck	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	92	Quite a deep colour in the glass. Fresh, bright acidity on the palate which support the oaky flavours. Perhaps a little too much wood on show for my taste but some will like the extra element this gives. Needs another 12-24 months before broaching. Click to see full details
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	92	There is a creamy, almost lactic edge to this Vaudésir. Cut through with plenty of citrus acidity and a hint of oak. At the moment, it's not the most harmonious grand cru but this has the concentration to age very well and could easily warrant a higher score in two to three years. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	92	Good combination of rich, concentrated fruit on the palate and some attractive, well-judged oak. A Vaudésir showing plenty of crisp acidity to keep the palate fresh. Should be ready to drink quite early but has the depth to age well. Click to see full details
Domaine Joseph Drouhin	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	92	Subtle, understated on both nose and palate. Good density here but not so easy to see that this is a Grand Cru Les Clos. A classy Chablis yet this Les Clos lacks a bit of a terroir spark for me. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	92	Quite a lot of oak on show at the moment, give this several years to let the wood settle. There is nice concentration here and a fine line of acidity so this Les Clos should evolve with further ageing in bottle and drink well for five to eight years. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Billaud-Simon's Vaillon is a blend of six plots. With white flowers (jasmine) on the nose, this premier cru is marked by a touch of peachy fruit interspersed with vibrant green apples. Lots of acidity here. Plenty of bite on the finish. Will need quite a bit of time to settle down but has good potential. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	92	The Billaud-Simon Vaulorent is produced with bought-in grapes from a long-term contract. Typical of Vaulorent, there is plenty of drive here. A classy premier cru which will need at least a year to show its best. Spicy, zesty notes to finish, with a touch of orange peel. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	More oak character is apparent with the Bougros, allied to plenty of palate weight and a touch of spice and appealing orange marmalade hints on the palate. In 2021 there were just two barrels, produced with bought in grapes. Nice structure underneath. Good potential here and a grand cru which will be attractive a bit earlier than some. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2021	92	The grapes for Billaud-Simon's Les Clos come from a long-term contract. However, they replanted in 2017 and will soon be producing domaine Les Clos. Quite a warm take on Les Clos and not the most refined. Full and generous in the mouth, there is plenty of acidity but some of the elements seem to be fighting each other at the moment. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis	2021	92	Droin owns 10ha of AP Chablis. Much more interest here with a deeper hue in the glass and much more interest on the nose. Some greengage on the palate, together with a hint of pear and white peach. Pretty much a benchmark example of what village Chablis should be. Concentration and a lengthy mineral character to finish. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vosgros)	2021	92	Vosgros is sometimes described as a 'left-bank' premier cru with 'right-bank' exposure. It is a valley which is very cold but has a sunny westerly exposition. Closed and precise at the moment, this spend 8-10 months on lees giving the wine a creamy yet elegant texture. A very classy premier cru, this will need several years to fully blossom. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	92	Droin's Montmains site is on a gentle slope with richer, deeper, kimmeridgian marl soils. A colder site, making the wine richer and with great density on the palate. Distinctly more weight than the Vaillons, giving the blend plenty of gravitas. 8-10 months ageing on fine lees adds a creamy character with acidity less pronounced than with the Vaillons. Classy. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	From a plot of 0.8ha with an average age of 50 years. Droin's vines are on the Chablis side of Mont de Milieu and face south, adding to the generosity here. Quite a full, fleshy style with an intriguing note of spice on the palate. An elegant example but not the deepest or most concentrated of the Mont de Milieu tasted. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Droin's Fourchaume is located in the Vaupulent sector, on deep, clay-rich soils. A warmer site, this is a;ready very appealing with nice touches of baked apples and stone-fruit on the palate, with softer acidity and concentration. Although accessible early, this has the concentration to age extremely well and will deliver more saline aspects with more bottle age. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2021	92	Droin's Vaudésir comes from just over 1ha with vines planted on both north- and south-facing slopes. A little subdued on the nose and palate, this is a subtle grand cru with plenty of definition, and will blossom with two to three years additional bottle age. No oak. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis	2021	92	William Fevre own 46ha of AP Chablis but there was lots of frost damage in 2021 - the yield was just 18hl/ha! Lovely floral notes here, very precise and focussed. This is already appealing although the acidity is certainly evident. Lingering spice notes on the finish. From a tank sample, with bottling due in November. Drink from next year and for many years. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	Fevre's Bougros covers around 50% of the whole Bougros climat. With it's westerly location in the grand cru, Bougros is often a warmer site and once can taste the sweetness to the fruit here, beautifully balanced by 2021's acidity. Although not the weightiest, showiest or most concentrated grand cru, there is lots to like, with notes of grapefruit, a touch of citrus zest and excellent acidity. With good volume in the mouth, this finishes very fresh. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2021	92	There is always lots of freshness from this 1.15ha site, high up in Valmur, close to the forest. The soils here are a deeper clay-limestone than many others in the grand cru. Fevre's Valmur shows plenty of sweetness to go with the rich palate feel. There are no harsh edges here and this is surprisingly approachable already. Good volume in the mouth, with ripe stone fruit notes which are not at all cloying. Will gain complexity with age. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis	2021	92	From two plots on the left bank near Vaillons, Montmains, with just under 1ha. The majority of the vines were plated in the early 2000's, although some are a lot older. The Raveneau Chablis shows very good richness, combined with ripeness of peach and pear fruit, all kept fresh by lingering citric acidity. Ageing in oak has certainly rounded off the corners of 2021's acidity, leaving a glossy, luxurious palate feel with a fine, mineral finish. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2021	92	Raveneau's Foret comes from a 0.7ha site which is quite low in the valley. Average vine age is 35 years, sited on deeper soils. A very elegant premier cru, an open, fragrant and perfumed wine with great precision on the palate. This is not at all a blockbuster style but is refined and so smooth. High quality. Has an intriguing earthy note. Crisp, lime and lemon fruit with great texture overall. More approachable than some of the domaine's other premiers crus. Click to see full details
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Fresh, confited apple on the nose and palate with lovely purity and a sour/salty aftertaste. Citrus acidity will give this concentrated Fourchaume the ability to improve over a few years. Fine balance here - this wine shows that Fourchaume can be powerful yet without excessive weight. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	A smaller plot of 0.4ha with average age around 33 years. The development of the vines in Vaillons was delayed in 2021 by the harsh April frosts. A slightly edgier wine than some others in the range. Isabelle Raveneau says that actually the acidity is not higher in Vaillons but the balance in 2021 is a bit different. Much more zesty grapefruit notes. Plenty of interest but not a standout in 2021 for me. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Petit Chablis)	2021	92	Dauvissat hold just over a hectare of Petit Chablis, from a single plot above Grand Cru Les Clos. One of the last to be picked in the Dauvissat portfolio, this was the finest Petit Chablis I tasted from the 2021 vintage. Great richness for a Petit Chablis with lime/lemon notes, great focus and precision on the finish. This can be broached now but will repay several years keeping. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis	2021	92	The harvest started 21 September. This is a very fine, precise Chablis showing good density, crystalline citrus notes on the palate, a lick of minerality to finish. The Louis Michel philosophy of aiming to express all the terroir influence is very well shown here. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	92	From a tank sample, with the wine due to be bottled over the winter. A generous, fruit driven style of Montmains with an appealing combination of stone fruit ripeness and crisp acidity to keep everything fresh and precise. A classy Montmains which will be accessible relatively early. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	92	The vines at Butteaux are planted on clay, Kimmeridgian soil. Much more restrained on the nose, this needs time (and aeration) to coax out of the glass. Powerfully structured, this Butteaux will keep very well, given the density and concentration on show. A classic Chablis in character. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Michel's Vaillons is typical of the cru. A warmer, fleshier, creamy textured premier cru with plenty of generosity on show. White-peach on the palate, lifted floral aromas and a fine line of acidity to keep the palate fresh, together with a zesty, saline follow through. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis	2021	92	This is much more mineral on the nose than Brocard's Petit Chablis, with much more concentration. An attractive note of honey along with the crisp apple character makes this a pure, classy AP Chablis to drink whilst young and fresh, or to enjoy with three to four years bottles ageing. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire	Chablis	2021	92	A special blend, Brocard's Sainte Claire is produced from old vines and certified organic. With an intriguing smoky edge, this is a distinctive Chablis with a bit more volume and weight than the 'straight' Chablis. Six months ageing on lees. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis	2021	92	Brocard's Vieilles Vignes Chablis is produced from vines with an average age of 46 years. In addition to ageing on lees the wine spends nine months in large foudres. Deeper in hue but still a very restrained, complex wine with classic mineral Chablis notes underneath. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	92	Brocard's Montmains is certified organic. Typical of Montmains, this has a sunny character, with a lick of honey from ageing in large foudres. Stone fruit and plenty of fruit ripeness here, finishing with a lick of orange zest. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2021	92	As expected from this cooler, steep-sided valley, Brocard's Vau de Vey is a bit more angular and crisp than their sunner, riper Montmains. Acidity stands out a little here but the flavours on the palate are vibrant and very fresh. Some lemon/lime note, with a distinctly mineral line to finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	A soft, enveloping and weighty Fourchaume, this is warmer and richer on the palate with a fuller body than some of the more focussed left-bank premiers crus. Approachable relatively early, this has the concentration to age well for four to five years. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2021	92	Plenty of weight on the palate of this Bougros, with a mineral, salty edge adding an extra freshness to the finish. Wood is a little more evident on the palate. Fleshy, quite warm in the mouth, this will provide relatively early pleasure for a grand cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2021	92	As a result of the very cool conditions found in Vau de Vey, this was picked very late. Surprisingly (for this premier cru) there is quite a warm feel on the palate with plenty of fleshy fruit characters. Not as austere as expected. For me the Côte de Léchet has a better balance. Click to see full details

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring Petit Chablis 2021 wines

Premier Cru Chablis 2021 score table

Decanter Staff — Mon, 14 Nov 2022 14:03:29 +0000

After tasting almost 300 Chablis 2021 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see notes and scores for all 132 Chablis Premier Cru 2021 wines tasted.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER As expected with Montée de Tonnerre, there are great reserves of power and energy here. Concentrated, fine and with great purity, oak adds subtle extra dimensions in the background. Lovely acidity and a touch of spice to finish. Great class. Raveneau's Montée de Tonnerre is over 3ha in area, accounting for around 1/3 of the estates holdings. Around 1.8ha are located on the mid-slopes of Chapelot. with 1.2ha at higher altitude in Pied d'Aloup which adds additional freshness and vivacity. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2021	95	TOP QUALITY PRODUCER One of the Dauvissat specialities, the La Forest is a triumph in 2021. From seven small parcels, the total site is less than 1ha with average vine age more than 40 years. Intriguing, slightly smoky nose, highly distinctive and different to others in the range. Plenty of power, ripe stone fruit flavours, zesty citrus acidity with a herbaceous edge adding an extra dimension. Definitely of grand cru quality. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	95	Droin owns 0.33ha in the renowned premier cru of Vaulorent. Benoît notes the higher incidence of limestone in the soils, giving more a more aromatic profile, great length and purity. Although the Droin premiers crus are all lovely wines, this is a distinct step up – a premier cru Chablis which would grace any table along with the world's finest wines. Filigree, precise acidity on the palate – delicate, very refined, yet a wine which will last a very long time. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	95	Droin's vines have an average age of 50 years with 1.75ha on Kimmeridgian marl with some blue-clay (Marne-bleu). As expected from Montée de Tonnerre, this has more power on the palate but also displays a remarkable balance between weight and elegance - 'complet' as Benoit Droin says. It would be a shame to drink this before 2-3 years and it will keep a very long time. Finishes with a vibrant hit spicy zesty fruit. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	95	Fevre's Vaulorent is just a little more precise on the nose. Seguier says it is always elegant, always fresh. Fevre's take on this renowned premier cru has an understated nose yet you can feel the power within. Lovely ripeness of fruit, but all in a very compact package at the moment. Although this is disarmingly approachable now, this will be a wine to cellar carefully, allowing all the perfectly formed components to blossom. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	94	A very youthful Mont de Milieu. Winemaker Olivier Bailly noted that if you want to drink this young, make sure it is decanted for at least an hour. Greenish tint in the glass, aromas of white peach and pear. A premier cru cut with vibrant acidity, finishing with some mineral and saline notes. They own 3ha here, ranging from the bottom to the top of the Mont de Milieu slope. Has a very bright future. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	94	A fine example of Les Lys. This is a great combination of the acidity from a cooler site plus the extra acidity from 2021, married with the richness and power of the marne dominated soils found here. Plenty of concentration and lots of depth here. A notable, and high quality, Les Lys. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	Fevre's Montée de Tonnerre comes from all three sectors. Seguier notes that Pied d'Aloup has the highest marn content, Montée de Tonnerre adds weight and the old Chapelot vines (planted in 1936) add finesse. More closed on the nose. Weighty, concentrated, persistent. Saline notes. Will be a great gourmand wine. Some white flower notes, lots of zesty orange and grapefruit on the palate with a nice touch of white peach. For long ageing. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	94	The average vine age here is 45 years, from a 1.5ha site in Butteaux which is higher up in the valley. Pronounced floral aromas of white peach and some slightly more exotic jasmine notes. Intensity on the palate with additional concentration from the old vines - a touch of dried stone fruit. A deep and profound premier cru which has a luscious palate whilst also managing to be supremely elegant yet also weighty and powerful. This will last many years. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2021	94	More herbal on the nose, this shows a hint of green characters - quite different to the other premiers crus in the range. Less fruit driven, more herbaceous. Plenty of focus and drive. A long future ahead, this needs two to three years minimum in order to settle. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	A very fine Montée de Tonnerre with power and concentration all wrapped up in a package which shows how classy the Dauvissat range is in 2021. Ripe stone fruit on the palate, precise acidity and some stony, smoky notes on the finish. Try and keep this for a decade if you can. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel, Vielles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	94	Louis Michel's old-vine Butteaux comes from vines with an average age of 65 years (45 years in the 'standard' bottling). The soil here is white clay - very dense in texture and poorly drained. An excellent balance of power and richness here with lemon/lime notes on the palate, all kept taut and in line by the vibrant hit of acidity. This could compare favorably with many a grand cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	Louis Michel's Montée de Tonnerre comes from the south-west facing slopes of Chapelot. A more serious premier cru with extra density on the palate. Beautifully clean and fresh. This will need several years to blossom. Keep for another three to five years and then drink over the following decade. Delivers all that Montée de Tonnerre is renowned for. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	94	Tank sample. Brocard's Mont de Milieu is a fie combination of the plushness of Fourchaume with the directness of the left-bank. Zesty citrus on the palate with a presence of mineral characters and a touch of salinity which keep the palate focussed and lively. A fine example of this top premier cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	94	A fine, impressive Vaulorent which shows the very high quality of this premier cru. With plenty of weight and concentration Brocard's Vaulorent is an amalgam of all the best of the rest of the premiers crus - mineral, powerful and rich, with warm, ripe fruit on the palate and notable concentration. Very much like a grand cru, this will keep for many years. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	94	Brocard's 7 Lieux Montée de Tonnerre is a lovely, classy wine which displays richness, weight and concentration. All the components are here - stone-fruit, lime/lemon acidity and zestiness, a stony, salty follow through. Needs several years to blossom but will have a long future ahead. Click to see full details
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	93	TOP VALUE Produced from vines planted in 1963 by André Tremblay. An elegant and precise Montmains which achieves the balance between ripeness of fruit (more white peach here), crisp apple acidity and a fine, lingering mineral finish. A great example of this premier cru which will drink well for many years if carefully cellared. Click to see full details
Domaine Roy	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	TOP VALUE A very elegant, focused example of Fourchaume. Shows the expected weight on the palate yet this is all tempered by a fine line of acidity and a long, lingering, mineral finish. Domaine Roy makes some excellent Chablis and this is particularly good in the context of 2021. Click to see full details
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	UNDER THE RADAR As expected from Jean-Francois Bordet, this is a Fourchaume which balances power and precision. Intensity on the nose with notes of ripe apricot and pear fruit, whilst the palate balances this with a salty, mineral struck aftertaste all kept fresh by a fine line of acidity. A very classy effort in this tricky year. Click to see full details
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	Cool, very appealing nose with just a hint of ripe fruit, with some apricot character on the palate which is not at all over the top. Freshened by a line of citrus acidity, there is plenty of purity and concentration here, despite the lowly 12.5% alcohol. A fine Fourchaume which will age. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	93	Olivier Bailly produces this Fourchaume from a blend of three inox barrels. The harvest started on 18 September but was then halted for four days as rain moved in to the region, before restarting on 22 September. Some extra volume here, with a winning combination of richness and freshness. Very appealing. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	93	With 2.15ha, a blend from three plots in Chapelot, Montée de Tonnerre and Pied d'Aloup, with vines in the latter now 87 years old. As expected of Montée de Tonnerre, this will need a lot of time to come round. Powerful, primary and concentrated, with restrained mineral, stony notes. Great purity here, salty finish. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	93	Droin have a sizeable 4.8ha of Vaillons, with five plots in Epinottes, Roncieres, Sechet, Chatains and Beugnons. This is always a super reliable blend as Benoit is able to draw on plots which work well in hot and cold vintages. A very fine premier cru with pronounced notes of white flowers, crisp acidity, some generous zesty citrus and a hint of stone fruit. Long and classy. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	93	Didier Seguier says that this is from a sunny terroir but in a cold vintage. It is certainly very attractive with the acidity balancing, and complimenting, the generosity of the fruit. White flowers and a touch of pear/white peach on the palate. Very precise and nice mineral undertow. A really fine example, mostly from the Vaillon sector within the wider Vaillon Premier Cru. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	93	Raveneau have 0.36ha in Montmains, with an average of of 35 years for the vines which are situated on shallow soils. An exciting, rounded and plush Montmains with notes of ripe peach fruit yet still very elegant and refined with a vibrant, fresh line of acidity. It almost feels as if one could drink this today. Very good volume in the mouth, lingering mineral finish. A very fine example of Montmains in 2021. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	93	Showing a warmer, fleshier and generous character, this Vaillons has plenty of acidity, floral characters and elegance with a long, fine, finish. Sappy and mineral, a finely textured premier cru which doesn't have quite the interest of Les Forêts or Séchet but is still very fine. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2021	93	Louis Michel's Les Forêts comes from a site where the bedrock of limestone lies very close to the surface. Notes of gun-flint are much more evident, with a touch of smoky, reductive characters. On the palate there are lime/lemon zest flavours. A very complex, interesting and appealing premier cru with no shortage of density, and one which will age very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	93	Another organic premier cru in the Brocard lineup, Butteaux shows some baked apple characters and crystalline lemon fruit on the palate with good volume and length. Elegant and refined, this will keep very well. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	93	Intriguing smoky character on the nose, Brocard's Montée de Tonnerre captures the essence of this top premier cru. Compact and concentrated on the palate, there is a fine combination of white flowers on the nose, stone fruit on the palate, powerful acidity and minerality. This really needs two to three years in bottle before broaching. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	93	A subtle, but quietly brooding Côte de Léchet, with white flowers on the nose, struck match note and more than a hint of the Côte d'Or about it. Natural yeasts used here, with the wine all aged in old foudres. Click to see full details
Domaine Clotilde Davenne	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2021	92	A fine example of the less well-known Premier Cru Beauregard. An appealing blend of crisp acidity, mineral notes, attractive floral characters and some ripe apple/pear fruit on the palate. Finishes with a saline, savoury note. Very precise and would be a great food wine. Click to see full details
Domaine Gérard Tremblay	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Deep in colour, with a waxy note on both nose and palate suggesting a light addition of an oaked component. Plenty of concentration and complexity here with acidity and mineral on the finish to keep the palate fresh. Nicely judged, this will improve in bottle and keep well for three to four years. Click to see full details
Domaine Laroche, Le Vaillons Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Tank sample. Elegant and concentrated premier cru that has the florality and acidity associated with Vaillons, together with extra concentration from the old vines. Mineral and a touch of salinity on the finish. Elegant, complex wine. Click to see full details
Domaine Laurent et Céline Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2021	92	Cool, crisp palate with some confit-apple and pear fruit balanced by vibrant acidity. A complex, layered and fine premier cru which will blossom with aeration and additional bottle age. Lovely concentration here and a fine advert for this less well-known cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Vocoret	Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)	2021	92	Deep colour in the glass yet there is not much sign of oak on the nose. A Fourchaume with typical power and weight, yet cut with plentiful acidity and a flinty character on the finish. A fine example of L'Homme Mort in this less than easy vintage. Click to see full details
Simonnet-Febvre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	An elegant, cool, Mont de Milieu. The ripeness is well in check with more of a green apple fruit character, supported by bright acidity and a lingering mineral background flavour. Precise. Will add a bit more weight and complexity with a year in bottle. Click to see full details
Maison Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Always interesting to compare the Dampt brothers different takes on the same terroir. This is a little more focussed than Sebastien's but equally fine. Doesn't have the extra plushness but is very direct with plenty of acidity and minerality on the long finish. Click to see full details
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Les Lys)	2021	92	Cool, fresh, north-facing, Les Lys has a very different premier cru style to that of Vaillons. Plenty of power here, density and concentration on the palate with acidity and a stony character adding complexity to the finish. Les Lys is not encountered so often but this is a great introduction to the terroir. Click to see full details
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	92	Fine, very precise Côte de Léchet, which is a very different take to the Vaillons Premier Cru. Plenty of bite here with green apple notes allied with crisp acidity and a fine mineral follow through. Very obviously Premier Cru Chablis and a fine effort in this vintage. Click to see full details
Domaine Simonnet Febvre	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	92	Established in 1840, Simonnet-Febvre became part of Maison Louis Latour in 2003, with a new winemaking facility in Chitry. This is a precise, clean and fresh Côte de Léchet with plenty of vibrant apple fruit, intermingled with some slightly more exotic notes. Nice spice on the finish. No hurry to drink this although it is drinking well already. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix, Vielle Vigne	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	92	Oak more to the fore, nicely combined with concentrated fruit on the palate to balance. Crisp apple acidity provides lots of cleansing freshness, along with some zesty grapefruit/orange notes on the aftertaste. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	92	Brocard's Vau de Vey is a masterclass in balancing ripe fruit with concentration, set against fine acidity and some lovely mineral notes on the finish. Not a shy, retiring premier cru but a wine with lots of personality and plenty of upside potential. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	A very classy example of this leading right-bank premier cru. This Mont de Milieu shows a fine combination of weight and concentration whilst balancing this with plenty of lift, vibrant acidity and a long, stony finish. No hurry to drink, this should improve with another year in bottle. Click to see full details
Domaine Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	Gautheron's Mont de Milieu has good weight and concentration on the palate, allied with crisp acidity and a mineral undertow. Precise, direct yet appealing already. All the components are in place to allow this to age well. Click to see full details
Domaine Courtault Michelet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Touch of spiciness and a hint of exotic fruit on the palate suggest a small proportion aged in oak. Good texture and concentration here with enough acidity to keep the palate in check. Has the weight and power expected of Fourchaume. Will age well. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Billaud-Simon's Vaillon is a blend of six plots. With white flowers (jasmine) on the nose, this premier cru is marked by a touch of peachy fruit interspersed with vibrant green apples. Lots of acidity here. Plenty of bite on the finish. Will need quite a bit of time to settle down but has good potential. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2021	92	The Billaud-Simon Vaulorent is produced with bought-in grapes from a long-term contract. Typical of Vaulorent, there is plenty of drive here. A classy premier cru which will need at least a year to show its best. Spicy, zesty notes to finish, with a touch of orange peel. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Vosgros)	2021	92	Vosgros is sometimes described as a 'left-bank' premier cru with 'right-bank' exposure. It is a valley which is very cold but has a sunny westerly exposition. Closed and precise at the moment, this spend 8-10 months on lees giving the wine a creamy yet elegant texture. A very classy premier cru, this will need several years to fully blossom. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	92	Droin's Montmains site is on a gentle slope with richer, deeper, kimmeridgian marl soils. A colder site, making the wine richer and with great density on the palate. Distinctly more weight than the Vaillons, giving the blend plenty of gravitas. 8-10 months ageing on fine lees adds a creamy character with acidity less pronounced than with the Vaillons. Classy. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	92	From a plot of 0.8ha with an average age of 50 years. Droin's vines are on the Chablis side of Mont de Milieu and face south, adding to the generosity here. Quite a full, fleshy style with an intriguing note of spice on the palate. An elegant example but not the deepest or most concentrated of the Mont de Milieu tasted. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Droin's Fourchaume is located in the Vaupulent sector, on deep, clay-rich soils. A warmer site, this is a;ready very appealing with nice touches of baked apples and stone-fruit on the palate, with softer acidity and concentration. Although accessible early, this has the concentration to age extremely well and will deliver more saline aspects with more bottle age. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2021	92	Raveneau's Foret comes from a 0.7ha site which is quite low in the valley. Average vine age is 35 years, sited on deeper soils. A very elegant premier cru, an open, fragrant and perfumed wine with great precision on the palate. This is not at all a blockbuster style but is refined and so smooth. High quality. Has an intriguing earthy note. Crisp, lime and lemon fruit with great texture overall. More approachable than some of the domaine's other premiers crus. Click to see full details
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	Fresh, confited apple on the nose and palate with lovely purity and a sour/salty aftertaste. Citrus acidity will give this concentrated Fourchaume the ability to improve over a few years. Fine balance here - this wine shows that Fourchaume can be powerful yet without excessive weight. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	A smaller plot of 0.4ha with average age around 33 years. The development of the vines in Vaillons was delayed in 2021 by the harsh April frosts. A slightly edgier wine than some others in the range. Isabelle Raveneau says that actually the acidity is not higher in Vaillons but the balance in 2021 is a bit different. Much more zesty grapefruit notes. Plenty of interest but not a standout in 2021 for me. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	92	From a tank sample, with the wine due to be bottled over the winter. A generous, fruit driven style of Montmains with an appealing combination of stone fruit ripeness and crisp acidity to keep everything fresh and precise. A classy Montmains which will be accessible relatively early. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	92	The vines at Butteaux are planted on clay, Kimmeridgian soil. Much more restrained on the nose, this needs time (and aeration) to coax out of the glass. Powerfully structured, this Butteaux will keep very well, given the density and concentration on show. A classic Chablis in character. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Michel	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	92	Michel's Vaillons is typical of the cru. A warmer, fleshier, creamy textured premier cru with plenty of generosity on show. White-peach on the palate, lifted floral aromas and a fine line of acidity to keep the palate fresh, together with a zesty, saline follow through. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	92	Brocard's Montmains is certified organic. Typical of Montmains, this has a sunny character, with a lick of honey from ageing in large foudres. Stone fruit and plenty of fruit ripeness here, finishing with a lick of orange zest. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2021	92	As expected from this cooler, steep-sided valley, Brocard's Vau de Vey is a bit more angular and crisp than their sunner, riper Montmains. Acidity stands out a little here but the flavours on the palate are vibrant and very fresh. Some lemon/lime note, with a distinctly mineral line to finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	92	A soft, enveloping and weighty Fourchaume, this is warmer and richer on the palate with a fuller body than some of the more focussed left-bank premiers crus. Approachable relatively early, this has the concentration to age well for four to five years. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, 7 Lieux	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2021	92	As a result of the very cool conditions found in Vau de Vey, this was picked very late. Surprisingly (for this premier cru) there is quite a warm feel on the palate with plenty of fleshy fruit characters. Not as austere as expected. For me the Côte de Léchet has a better balance. Click to see full details
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	91	Pure and intense nose. Typical white flower character with plenty of Vaillons acidity on the palate. Not the weightiest premier cru but makes up for this with drive and a laser-like focus on the palate. A fine, fresh example of this premier cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	91	Bit more colour evident here, suggesting longer ageing on lees and perhaps a little addition of some oak. This all adds to the interest on the palate which is concentrated, plush and pure. There is also an additional component of saltiness which makes the wine more gourmandise. No hurry to drink this fine premier cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	91	A fine blend of white peach and pear fruit on the palate, some lifted floral notes and plenty of drive on the finish. New winemaker here, Louis Gimonet, is bringing his own interpretation to this significant domaine, part of the important Bichot group. Should age well for three to four years. Click to see full details
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (1er Cru Les Lys)	2021	91	A plush, rounded Les Lys with plenty of acidity to keep the palate in check. Mineral notes on the finish. Plenty going on here - this wine will benefit from at least six months ageing in bottle as everything is still very primary. But there is no shortage of concentration and the wine will continue to develop well. Click to see full details
Céline & Antoine Angst	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Jouan)	2021	91	A rarely seen Premier Cru from close to Chichee, Cote de Jouan has some similarities with Vaillons with white flowers and prominent acidity, supplemented by a mineral edge on the finish. Purity of flavour here, this should benefit from another 6-12 months in bottle. Click to see full details
Domaine Lydie Heimbourger	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	91	Approachable Montmains which shows a very pleasing combination of baked apple and pear fruit, a lick of acidity and salty finish. Elegant and not at all showy - a precise and classy example of the premier cru. Click to see full details
Edmond Chalmeau et Fils, Claudius	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	91	Plenty of ripe fruit on the nose and palate but this is very pure and crisp, with fine acidity to keep the sunny character in balance. Saline edge on the finish. Not the heftiest Butteaux but manages to balance the warmth of the site with the precision expected of a premier cru. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	91	Cool, supple, richer style of Cote de Lechet with a hint of oak on the nose and palate. This is well balanced and adds to the complexity of this classy premier cru. Plenty of concentration and potential to age here. Click to see full details
Domaine Alain Geoffroy	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2021	91	Classy example of Beauroy which balances the warmth and ripeness of the site with a touch of minerality and crisp acidity on the palate. Very good purity here, with a focussed palate suggesting this will age well for at least three to four years. Click to see full details
Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	91	Appealing, crisp, apple-fruit driven premier cru with stony, flinty character on the finish, together with a touch of smoky reduction. Certainly not the ripest expression but there is no shortage of minerality and drive here, so will appeal to classical Chablis fans. Could benefit from another 12 months in bottle. Click to see full details
Domaine Laroche	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	91	Plenty of precision here. Nice fruit ripeness but not all over the top, cut with vibrant acidity and a lingering saline character to finish. Should put on a bit more weight with another year in bottle. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Ligneau)	2021	91	Cool, fresh, very precise premier cru from Louis Moreau with plenty of concentration on the palate, crisp acidity and a pronounced salty, mineral finish. Very nice example of this relatively new cru. The other components really compliment the bright fruit flavours well. Click to see full details
Charlène & Laurent Pinson	Chablis (1er Cru Vaugiraut)	2021	91	Just a touch of something exotic on the nose adds an extra dimension here. Zesty orange and grapefruit adds bite to the palate. Mineral notes as well. There is a lot going on here and plenty to like. Has the concentration to age well for several years. Click to see full details
Domaine Paul Nicolle	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	91	An enjoyable Mont de Milieu which brings a very sunny disposition of the palate with plenty of baked apple fruit and a touch of something more exotic, with freshening acidity and a long, lingering aftertaste of salty mineral notes. Ready now but will drink well for three to four years and be a fine wine to drink with fish/shellfish. Click to see full details
Baudoin Millet	Chablis (1er Cru Les Vaucoupins)	2021	91	Touch of spice on the palate to go with the zesty citrus fruits and a touch of kumquat bitterness on the palate. Generous and fleshy on the palate, balanced by appetising acidity and some mineral, slatey notes to finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Ternynck	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	91	Good Montée de Tonnerre with good focus and concentration on the palate, allied to stony characters on the finish, all of which balance out the appealing ripe apple and pear fruit flavours. Has a fine, fresh, mineral finish. Carries its 13.5% alcohol well. Click to see full details
Charly Nicolle	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2021	91	Quite an exotic, warm and fleshy fruit style from this aptly named premier cru. This is matched by plenty of citrus acidity and some appealing stony, flinty notes on the finish. Very nicely put together and well balanced. Click to see full details
Domaine Paul Nicolle	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2021	91	Well-balanced wine with weighty fruit which is a bit more tropical and zesty in nature, combined with plenty of citrus acidity and some mineral notes to finish. A complex wine. Will be ready to drink soon, and at best over the next couple of years. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2021	91	A precise, smooth and layered example of Les Fourneaux. Plenty of acidity to balance the slightly exotic fruit on the palate. Appealing stony freshness on the finish. Another classy wine from Louis Moreau, relatively early-drinking. Click to see full details
Pascal Bouchard	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	91	An organic wine - quite a challenge in 2021. Perhaps not the deepest or weightiest Fourchaume but this is made up for a light, precise palate which is very refined and elegant. Salty, fresh notes to finish. Click to see full details
Jean Durup	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	91	Declaring a surprisingly low 12% alcohol, this Fourchaume has plenty to like. Fresh and crisp on the palate, there is enough density here, allied with pure, green apple notes and a flinty aftertaste. Perhaps not one to keep for more than a couple of years but appealing already. Click to see full details
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin	Chablis (1er Cru Les Vaucoupins)	2021	91	Droin's Vaucoupin is from a tiny 0.15ha site so in 2021 the small volumes meant this was blended with some other wines and bottled as a premier cru blend. Depending on pricing, this could make this a smart buy. Attractive lime/orange notes with a light spiciness to finish. Very clean flavours, fresh and generous, with sweet stone-fruit on the palate. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2021	91	Fevre's Beauroy has a little bit of oak in the blend. From a tank sample, this has been on fine lees since Spring 2022, with bottling due in Spring 2023. Seguier picked early here to avoid over-ripeness. Nice weight on the palate which lacks the density of some of the best premiers crus but makes for a very classy, pure and highly-enjoyable wine. Good salinity to finish. Seguier says that the adoption of Organic/Bio principles has really helped Beauroy. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	91	A blend from all three sectors of the Montmains Premier Cru. Seguier says that Butteaux adds the tension whilst Montmains adds the weight. Quite soft and generous, attractive already with a touch of honey balanced with crisp acidity to balance the soft fruit character on the palate. White peach notes. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregards)	2021	91	Showing more weight on the palate than their straight Chablis, Brocard's premier cru Beauregard has attractive peach fruit on the palate, with crisp acidity to keep the wine fresh. Nice mineral edge. Perhaps a little more like a premium AP Chablis than a premier cru though? Very pleasant but not a standout wine. Click to see full details
Domaine Milcent	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	90	Nicely concentrated with a bit more weight than their straight Chablis. Attractive white flower and pear aromas, soft, ripe stone-fruit character on the palate with a burst of acidity on the finish. An early-drinking Vaillons, showing lots of purity. Click to see full details
Lamblin & Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	90	Good Vaillons with a nice mineral thread underneath the vibrant acidity and white peach characters on the palate. Not the most complex but will provide lots of early drinking pleasure. Very nicely balanced. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	90	Full, rich and quite marked by oak, this is an alternative take on the Vaillons Premier Cru. There is certainly good acidity underneath, and a stony character on the finish. A premier cru which will appeal to those looking for a richer style of wine. The oak is well balanced but may not appeal to all. Click to see full details
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils, Vielles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	90	Now in its 14th generation, this domaine is under the ownership of Alain and Adrian Gautherin. From a 0.69ha plot with average vine age of 55 years, this is a classy, weighty Montmains with plenty of depth of stone fruit flavour, saltiness and the acidity to keep everything on track. Touch of honeyed fruit on the finish. Click to see full details
Domaine Pinson	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	90	Intriguing salty edge to this Montmains with apple/pear fruit on the palate a little subdued but waiting to blossom given a bit of time. Quite a complex, savoury take on Montmains. A premier cru which would work well with food. Click to see full details
Maison Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	90	The fruit seems a little subdued here and, although there is plenty of acidity, the wine lacks a little lift at the moment. In this vintage, I prefer Vincent's Vaillons. Nice spice and mineral edge to finish. Click to see full details
La Chablisienne	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2021	90	Cote de Lechet is a sunnier site and this 2021 is a warm, ripe take on this premier cru. There is good acidity underneath but the initial hit of confited white peach and pear was unexpected. However, the finish is very classy and this may just need a little more time in bottle to settle down. Click to see full details
Domaine Agnes & Didier Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2021	90	Crisp, nice balance here between crunchy green apple fruit, citrus acidity and a bit of bitter grapefruit zest to cleanse the palate. Plenty of purity and precision on show. No hurry to drink but probably at its best over the next three to four years. Click to see full details
Roland Lavantureux	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	90	Intriguing nose with notes of quince and some exotic fruits. Quite strident acidity here, which needs a bit more time to settle down. Not my favourite of the Lavantureux wines in 2021. Perhaps a bit more bottle age will smooth the palate out. Click to see full details
Christophe et Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	90	Generous, good weight on the palate with white flower notes and a touch of baked apple/pear fruit. Good acidity to balance. Approachable quite early, this is a very pleasing example of Mont de Milieu. Click to see full details
Domaine Drouhin	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	90	Crisp, correct, precise Mont de Milieu. Fine acidity and a nice mineral structure here. Not the weightiest of wines but a fair result in this vintage. Ready to drink. Click to see full details
Domaine Laurent et Celine Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Les Vaucoupins)	2021	90	Very attractive, full, fleshy premier cru with a bite of grapefruit zest/acidity to keep the palate fresh. Very good purity of fruit here. Displaying lots of fruit ripeness this will be very appealing to many consumers over the next one to two years. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	90	There are more brooding, smoky and mineral notes on the nose, as expected from this premier cru. Plenty of structure here with nice acidity and stony, flinty characters. Lacks a little of the concentration you would expect from a great vintage but a fine introduction to Montée de Tonnerre. Click to see full details
Domaine Vrignaud	Chablis (1er Cru Vaupulent)	2021	90	Tank sample. There's no doubting the weight and concentration here but a bit difficult to see how this will end up once bottled. There is good acidity and, in combination with the concentration, I suspect this will develop well. Click to see full details
Céline & Antoine Angst	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	90	Quite a savoury wine, with plenty of structural components whilst the fruit takes second-stage. Good grip on the palate. Has the potential to age nicely. Should be a very good Premier Cru Chablis to accompany food. Click to see full details
Louis Jadot	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	90	Deeper hue, with plenty of weight and power typical of Fourchaume. Perhaps not the most subtle expression of this premier cru but there are some attractive lime zest notes and accompanying acidity which keeps the palate fresh. Click to see full details
Domaine Vocoret	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	90	Typical Fourchaume heft with some slightly exotic notes on the palate. Not the most subtle but there is sufficient acidity here to keep the palate fresh and lively. Drink relatively young. Click to see full details
Lamblin & Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	90	A generous, fleshy Fourchaume with some ripe stone fruit flavours on the palate. Good acidity to keep the palate fresh. Not the most complex or layered example but still nicely done in this vintage. Click to see full details
Domaine Besson	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2021	89	More peach and apricot fruit on the nose and palate. Has enough acidity to keep everything on track but lacks a bit of the focus expected. Certainly a very sunny example of Vaillons. Could well shed some 'puppy fat' after another year and merit a higher score. Click to see full details
Louis Robin	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	89	Slightly smoky notes on the nose add to the complexity here. Touch of struck match character works well with the ripeness of pear/white peach on the palate. Acidity is nicely balanced with the weight on the palate. Click to see full details
Domaine Passy le Clou	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2021	89	An appealing, ripe and early-drinking example of this warm, sunny premier cru. Perhaps not the most complex wine, there is a nice undertow of minerality once past the white flowers on the nose and the white peach fruit flavour. Enjoy over the next two to three years. Click to see full details
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)	2021	89	A warm, generous and quite easy-drinking premier cru. Could do with a little more acidity to tighten things up but still nicely done in this rather difficult vintage. Click to see full details
Domaine Alain Geoffroy	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Ligneau)	2021	89	Crunchy green apple on the palate. Plenty of acidity to keep the palate fresh with a stony character on the finish. Appealing and ready now, perhaps best to drink this over the next two to three years. Click to see full details
Domaine du Chardonnay	Chablis (1er Cru Vaugiraut)	2021	89	Warm, ripe fruits on the palate with acidity to keep everything fresh. Seems to have focussed more on the ripe character so will appeal to those who like a more generous style rather than Chablis classicists. A nicely made wine though, with good concentration. Click to see full details
Domaine Pinson	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	89	A weighty, rich style which is a touch broader on the palate than expected. The acidity and mineral notes are there but the wine seems slightly unbalanced. Still a good premier cru but perhaps not quite on top form this year. Click to see full details
Venon & Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2021	89	Plenty of ripe fruit to the fore. Appealing early on. Lacks a bit of the structure hoped for in a premier cru but style which will appeal to many. Mineral notes to finish add to the interest. Click to see full details
Domaine Ventoura	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	89	A burly, weighty and powerful Fourchaume which has baked apple fruit and some ripe peach notes, balanced by strong acidity and a grippy texture on the finish. Plenty of Fourchaume power here, although not the most subtle expression. Click to see full details
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	89	Attractive ripe, zesty, fruit notes on the palate. Clean, bright and fresh on the nose. Good concentration, with a slightly sweet aftertaste. A forward Fourchaume, ready to enjoy now. Click to see full details
Domaine des Marronniers	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	88	A little edgier on the palate with some hints of agrumes adding a hint of bitterness. There is enough concentration but this isn't as harmonious as some other examples. Click to see full details
Domaine Besson	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	88	Quite full and fleshy on the palate, balanced by zesty grapefruit characters on the palate. Not the most harmonious Montmains, this could settle down with further bottle age. Click to see full details
Maison Stephane Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2021	88	A weighty style which just lacks a bit of lift and drive on the palate. There is no shortage of fruit ripeness here with more of a peach fruit character than tree fruit. Not a premier cru for the most prolonged ageing. Click to see full details
Domaine Dupre	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2021	88	Has quite a coarse texture on the palate. There is enough concentration here but not a wine that quite gets the optimum balance in this vintage. Finish is rather severe. Click to see full details
Domaine Verret	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2021	88	Ripe stone fruit on the nose and palate with a creamy, almost buttery texture, this shows the sunny exposition of Beauroy well. Perhaps a bit over the top for Chablis enthusiasts, this would have very wide appeal to those wanting a warmer, more generous character for their Chardonnay. Drink sooner rather than later. Click to see full details
Domaine Lydie Heimbourger	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2021	88	Quite deep in colour with rather baked apple and pear notes on the palate. Plenty of acidity to keep the palate fresh. Just seems a little heavy and needs more vibrancy to warrant a higher score. Click to see full details
Charly Nicolle	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	88	Ripe stone fruit on the nose and palate with a creamy, almost buttery texture, this shows the sunny exposition of Beauroy well. Perhaps a bit over the top for Chablis enthusiasts, this would have very wide appeal to those wanting a warmer, more generous character for their Chardonnay. Drink sooner rather than later. Click to see full details
Domaine de Vauroux	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	88	A warmer, riper style of Montée de Tonnerre with the typical crushed rock notes enveloped by plenty of ripe apricot/peach fruit on the palate. Quite generous and early-drinking. Click to see full details
Domaine Soupe	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2021	88	Nice flinty notes on the palate mark this out as Montée de Tonnerre but the wine lacks a bit of the concentration and power expected. A perfectly pleasant premier cru but was looking for a little bit more than this. Click to see full details
Maison Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2021	88	Full, fleshy and ripe on the palate with stone fruit characters to the fore. Could benefit from a bit more freshening acidity. Perhaps not a wine for Chablis aficionados. Click to see full details
Domaine Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)	2021	88	Both nose and palate show more of a baked apple fruit character. Quite a bit of fruit ripeness and weight here. Bright acidity, could do with a little more concentration and precision on the palate. Click to see full details
Domaine Laurent et Celine Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Vaugiraut)	2021	87	Not the freshest example. Suspect this is a tank sample (although not marked as such). There is plenty of weight and concentration but the fruit is a little baked and the acidity not really adding enough to freshen things up. Click to see full details
Domaine Michaut	Chablis (1er Cru Les Vaucoupins)	2021	87	Quite a lean, lighter style of wine which doesn't have the extra layers of complexity of some. Fresh, youthful and crisp on the palate, slightly sour finish. Just a little on the one-dimensional side and not showing much terroir influence. Click to see full details
Domaine Alexandre	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2021	87	Fruit is a little sour and lacks some sweetness/ripeness. Not the most harmonious Fourchaume. Plenty of acidity. Lacks some generosity on the finish. Click to see full details
Louis Robin	Chablis (1er Cru Vosgros)	2021	86	Quite a subdued palate with notes of baked apple. Could do with more focus and vibrancy to add to the lift. Pleasant but not particularly typical of a Chablis Premier Cru for me. Click to see full details
Domaine du Chardonnay	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2021	86	Rich, ripely fruited Mont de Milieu. The ripeness here seems to rather overwhelm the characters of this renowned right-bank premier cru. Acidity just about keeps things in check but not the most precise or vibrant example of the climat. Click to see full details
Le Clos du Roi - Magalie Bernard	Chablis (1er Cru Beauregard)	2021	85	Rather coarse and grainy on the palate with harsh acidity standing out. Not the most harmonious premier cru. Click to see full details
Domaine de la Motte	Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Ligneau)	2021	85	The fruit here is a little severe and shows a hint of vegetal notes on the aftertaste. Not the most generous examples of premier cru in 2021. The balance is not quite where I think it should be. Drink sooner rather than later. Click to see full details

Chablis 2021: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2021 wines

Top scoring Petit Chablis 2021 wines

Chablis 2020: top-value wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 15 Dec 2021 09:20:16 +0000

In Andy Howard MW’s Chablis 2020 vintage report, the top-scoring wines mainly consisted, somewhat unsurprisingly, of grand cru and premier cru wines.

A vintage marked by classicism, both of these quality tiers showed distinct terroir influence in 2020, as well as good ageing potential, although command much higher prices.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for a selection of top-value Chablis 2020 wines

However, Petit Chablis was also very successful in 2020, with many wines showing an attractive stone-fruit character combined with freshness and approachability.

The wines will provide excellent short-term drinking before many of the best Chablis are ready. Petit Chablis retains the drive and purity of Chablis but in a more accessible, less complex way and at more everyday prices.

AOP Chablis wines had lots of acidity and concentration, as well as great energy and a mineral streak, hinting that these wines will benefit from careful ageing. These will therefore offer great value and should be on the radar to snap up quickly.

Quick links to Chablis 2020 top-scoring wines by appellation:

Petit Chablis | AOP Chablis | Premier Cru Chablis | Grand Cru Chablis

The list of value wines below is made up of mostly AOP Chablis and Petit Chablis. However it does also include three premier cru wines, which will provide insight into the ageability and complexity of the higher tiers and which Andy Howard MW also reveals are disarmingly drinkable now.

That being said, as Oliver Bailly advises, make sure to decant the premier cru wines for at least an hour in order to reveal the wines’ true potential.

Which value Chablis 2020 wines to seek out

Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen’s Chablis retails at just £15.99 but shows concentration on the palate and extra layers of flavour, kept in perfect balance by crisp acidity and a fine, mineral finish.

The Chablis ‘Vieilles Vignes’ from Domaine Séguinot-Bordet comes in at just over £20 and offers a great deal of fruit purity and an energy on the palate which makes one want to drink another glass.

To taste a very fine example of AOP Chablis which would compete very effectively against many a premier cru, try Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard’s Sainte Claire Chablis.

You’ll find great value with one of the top Petit Chablis around, punching well above its weight, in Samuel Billaud’s Petit Chablis, retailing at just £17.68

Domaine des Malandes Premier Cru Montmains scored 93 points and will retail between £30-£35 (based on previous years prices) and considering Andy Howard MW highlighted Montmains as being one of the top-performing premiers crus in 2020, this is one to try and get your hands on.

Chablis 2020 wines that scored 91 points or above and retail at under £30:

Daniel Dampt, Chablis, 1er Cru Fourchaume, 2020 – £25.90 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller, Chablis, 2020 – £21

Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Chablis, 2020 – £15.99

Domaine Sébastien Dampt, Chablis, 1er Cru Beugnons, 2020 – £29 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, Vieilles Vignes, Chablis 2020 – £21

J Moreau & Fils, Petit Chablis, 2020 – £15-19

La Chablisienne, Vibrant, Petit Chablis, 2020 – £16.99 (based on 2019 prices)

Samuel Billaud, Petit Chablis, 2020 – £17.69

Vincent Dampt, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaillons, 2020 – £26.75 (based on 2019 prices)

See Andy’s full Chablis 2020 vintage report and top-scoring wines

Top-value Chablis 2020 wines:

Petit Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

AOP Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

Chablis 2020 score table

Petit Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 14:41:15 +0000

Created in 1944, the Petit Chablis appellation covers 1,189ha and is a great introduction to the crisp, fresh style of Chablis wines.

Scroll down for the top scoring Petit Chablis 2020 wines

In most cases the vines have been planted relatively recently. A key difference to AOP Chablis is that Petit Chablis vines are nearly always found on younger, Portlandian limestone bedrock.

The Portlandian rock is often found higher on the slopes, where the warmth and direct exposure to the sun is reduced.

See the 2020 Chablis full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 180 Chablis 2020 tasting notes and scores

Petit Chablis retains the drive and purity of Chablis but in a more accessible, less complex way.

The classic mineral character associated with Chablis is usually more muted with Petit Chablis. It must be said that ‘Petit’ does not indicate ‘lesser’, as good producers, such as Domaine François Raveneau, William Fèvre and Samuel Billaud, all make Petit Chablis that can out-compete many a Chablis.

Petit Chablis 2020: the verdict

In 2020 many Petit Chablis show an attractive stone-fruit character, purity of fruit and bright acidity making then delicious to drink now.

Their freshness and drinkability will provide immediate pleasure while you wait for some of the best Chablis to be ready to drink.

Quick links

Find links to the full report and analysis of individual appellations below:

Chablis 2020 Full Report | Premier cru Chablis | Chablis | Top-value Chablis (coming soon)

Petit Chablis 2020: key producers

Domaine François Raveneau
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Domaine William Fèvre
Samuel Billaud

Petit Chablis 2020: under-the-radar producers

Domaine des Quatre Chemins
Domaine Orion
Domaine Passy Le Clou

Petit Chablis 2020: top-value wines

J Moreau et Fils, Petit Chablis

Andy Howard MW’s top-scoring Petit Chablis 2020 wines:

Chablis 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Best value 2019 white Burgundy en primeur to buy

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

AOP Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 13:57:18 +0000

Rightly world famous and one of the most important appellations in France, Chablis is produced in the northern part of Burgundy, with the marginal climate giving the wines a distinct freshness and pronounced acidity.

Scroll down for the top-scoring AOP Chablis 2020 wines

The AOP Chablis vineyards sit across 3,702ha and the wines have a very distinct character to Petit Chablis, with notes of green apple and pear fruit allied with good concentration and flinty, stony notes on the palate.

The key differentiator between Chablis and Petit Chablis is the soil. Vines within the AOP Chablis area are planted on Kimmeridgian soils dating back to the Upper Jurassic period.

See the 2020 Chablis full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 180 Chablis 2020 tasting notes and scores

This limestone-clay soil is rich in fossilised marine deposits, which contributes to the extra layers of complexity and ageability one should expect to see in Chablis.

Chablis is nearly always fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, with the best wines capable of improving for several years after the vintage, and ageing for several years more.

AOP Chablis 2020: the verdict

Many Chablis AOP wines were very successful in 2020, with plenty of acidity, concentration and crisp fruit. They seamlessly combined ripeness and energy with a saline, mineral finish.

With many of the wines showing a distinct step up from the Petit Chablis and pronounced apple and pear fruit characters, they will benefit from careful ageing.

Quick links

Find links to the full report and analysis of individual appellations below:

Chablis 2020 Full Report | Premier cru Chablis | AOP Chablis | Petit Chablis | Top-value Chablis (coming soon)

AOP Chablis 2020: key producers

Domaine François Raveneau
Domaine Vincent Dampt
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Domaine William Fèvre
Jean-Marc Brocard
Samuel Billaud

AOP Chablis 2020: under-the-radar producers

Domaine Charly Nicolle
Domaine des Quatre Chemins
Domaine Jean Claude Courtault
Domaine Orion
Domaine Oudin
Domaine Passy Le Clou

AOP Chablis 2020: top-value wines

Didier et Agnès Dauvissat, Les Brèches de Fyé, Chablis
Domaine Camille et Laurent Schaller, Chablis
Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen, Chablis
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, Chablis
Domaine Orion, Chablis

Andy Howard MW’s top scoring AOP Chablis 2020 wines:

Chablis 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Best value 2019 white Burgundy en primeur to buy

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Chablis 2020

Decanter Staff — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 13:55:41 +0000

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Read in-depth expert analysis by Andy Howard MW plus see almost 200 wine tasting notes and scores from the Chablis 2020 vintage.

Chablis 2020: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

With consistent quality across the Chablis tiers, 2020 is a particularly classic vintage for the region...

CHABLIS 2020 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 96 wines all with 92 points or above.

SEE WINES

APPELLATION OVERVIEWS

Premier cru Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 13:53:50 +0000

There are 47 climats (named vineyard sites) in Chablis, of which 40 are designated premier cru Chablis, sitting across 778ha. Yields are slightly lower and minimum alcohol levels slightly higher than for AOP Chablis.

Some producers feel that a little oak maturation (perhaps 10-20%) adds to the complexity of the wines, although other leading producers, such as Louis Michel, eschew any form of wood, believing it reduces the focus on specific terroir.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the top premier cru Chablis 2020 wines

Premier cru Chablis is fantastic value compared to other premier cru wines from the Cote d’Or.

The 40 named climats are located on the left and right banks of the Serein River, each having a distinct character.

See the 2020 Chablis full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 180 Chablis 2020 tasting notes and scores

Somewhat confusingly, a number of the major premiers crus (Vaillons, Montmains, Montée de Tonnerre and Fourchaume) also have several climats within them.

As a result, it is sometimes possible to see bottles labelled Butteaux or Forêt (both are part of Montmains and can also be named as such) or L’Homme Mort and Vaupulent (part of Fourchaume).

Montée de Tonnerre and Vaulorent are perhaps the highest regarded premiers crus, but any climat, in the hands of a good producer, will produce memorable, terroir-driven wines.

Premier cru Chablis 2020: the verdict

2020 produced wines which combine extra layers of richness and complexity, with a distinctive terroir character.

On the left bank of the Serein, Montmains and Vaillons were particularly noteworthy, while Mont de Milieu and Vaulorent stood out on the left bank, as did the reputable Montée de Tonnerre.

Although deserving of longer ageing, many 2020 premiers crus will be disarmingly easy to drink while young.

Quick links

Find links to the full report and analysis of individual appellations below:

Chablis 2020 Full Report | Premier cru Chablis | Chablis | Petit Chablis | Top-value Chablis (coming soon)

Premier cru Chablis 2020: key producers

Domaine François Raveneau
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Samuel Billaud
Domaine William Fèvre
Jean-Marc Brocard
Domaine Long-Depaquit
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Domaine Vincent Dampt

Premier cru Chablis 2020: under-the-radar producers

Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen
Domaine Camille et Laurent Schaller
Charlène et Laurent Pinson
Domaine Jean Claude Courtault
Domaine Ternynck
Domaine Oudin

Premier cru Chablis 2020: top-value wines

Domaine des Malandes, Premier Cru Montmains
Domaine Long-Depaquit, Premier Cru Les Vaucoupins
Domaine Sébastien Dampt, Premier Cru Les Beugnons

See tasting notes and scores for Andy Howard MW’s top premier cru Chablis 2020 wines:

Chablis 2020: full vintage report and top scoring wines

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2019

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2019 wines

Grand cru Chablis 2020: top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 13:36:31 +0000

At the top of the Chablis quality pyramid lies Chablis grand cru.

There are seven different expressions of the one grand cru (as opposed to seven different appellations): Bougros, Preuses, Valmur, Grenouilles, Vaudesir, Blanchot and Les Clos.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring grand cru Chablis 2020

La Moutonne is an unofficial eighth climat which was overlooked when the appellation laws were set. It is a monopole belonging to Domaine Long-Depaquit, with 5% of it situated within Les Preuses and 95% within Vaudesir.

Chablis grand cru, like the top sites within the Cote d’Or, is a complex map of different plots and different producers, with many having different holdings within the one grand cru climat.

See the 2020 Chablis full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 180 Chablis 2020 tasting notes and scores

At 102ha, the grand cru vineyard area is a wonderfully exposed, steep slope which in most cases faces south-west (Blanchot is the exception facing east-south-east).

Oak use is much more common in these wines, but new oak is very rarely used.

Chablis grand cru wines will need at least five, often 10 years to hit their peak, so buy from a top producer in a top vintage and the wines will have an extremely long life.

Grand cru Chablis 2020: the verdict

Some classic grands crus were produced in 2020, marrying pronounced terroir character with complex flavours, additional levels of concentration and freshness, and the ability to age for over a decade.

Well-placed oak has produced great power and texture, with Les Clos and Les Preuses being particularly impressive climats in 2020.

Quick links

Find links to the full report and analysis of individual appellations below:

Chablis 2020 Full Report | Premier cru Chablis | Chablis | Petit Chablis | Top-value Chablis (coming soon)

Grand cru Chablis 2020: key producers

Domaine François Raveneau
Domaine Long-Depaquit
Domaine Louis Michel
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Domaine William Fèvre

Grand cru Chablis 2020: under-the-radar producers

Charlène et Laurent Pinson
Domaine Charly Nicolle

Tasting notes and scores for Andy Howard MW’s top grand cru Chablis 2020 wines:

Chablis 2020: full report and top scoring wines

Top scoring Premier cru Chablis 2020 wines

Investing in Burgundy: search on for next stars

Chablis 2020 Score Table

Decanter Staff — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 11:51:25 +0000

After tasting almost 200 Chablis 2020 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 96 wines all with 92 points or above.

Producer	Appellation	Vintage	Score
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2020	98	From 40-50-year-old vines, with a powerful and forceful nose displaying intriguing smoky notes. A wall of concentration on the palate, with vibrant orchard tree fruit, white flowers, great acidity, intense focus and a long, savoury, mineral aftertaste. Despite the power it’s not showy, but is terroir-driven with total purity and for the very long haul. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2040 Click to see full details
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (Moutonne Grand Cru Monopole)	2020	97	As hoped for, this is another fantastic example of the special qualities of Moutonne, with great intensity of pear and apple fruit, with a faint tropical edge. Despite the concentration the fruit is pure and the focused acidity keeps the palate fresh and wanting more. The oak is barely noticeable and the wine finishes with a chalky, dry note which adds even more to the appeal. Very, very classy. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2037. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2020	97	Fèvre's largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler climate and with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. 50% of the vines were planted by William Fèvre's father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine. Drinking Window: 2025 - 2040. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2020	96	Made from 70-year-old vines, a small part of the blend was matured in old casks, the rest in vats. This is powerful, complex, but also refined and understated. Crisp, vibrant acidity, subtle wood notes and a long, lingering, mineral finish. A touch of the iron fist in a velvet glove. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2032 Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	96	One of Raveneau's jewels in the crown, this is a stunning Montée de Tonnerre. This has marked flinty and mineral aromas, whilst the palate is intense and concentrated. You can feel, taste and breathe the terroir here. A precise premier cru with wonderful purity and the structure to age more than a decade. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2020	96	Dauvissat's Les Clos lives up to its grand cru billing with great power and concentration evident. Subtle orange-box notes on the palate, a hint of peach and apricot, matched with driving apple acidity and fresh salty, chalky notes. The purity and clarity of the wine is so impressive. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2037. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2020	96	With 3.65ha spread over eight plots, Fèvre is the largest owner in Vaulorent. Didier Seguier says marl soil gives the density, while Kimmeridgian supplies the minerality. Great complexity on both the nose and palate, this has the richness and structure of the grand cru. Absolutely no need to rush drinking this. Stunning. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2020	96	Côte Bouguerots is a cooler site down by the Serein River, with precipitous slopes of 45 degrees. An intense grand cru, with concentration from very low yields (25hl/ha), this displays a distinct savoury edge. It’s a very fine, persistent wine, with a very long future ahead. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2037 Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)	2020	95	Currently showing a bit more oak, this has plenty of weight on the palate. A little more heft than this producer’s Les Preuses, but likely to be more popular. Impressive but, for me, not their top 2020. Sappy on the palate, casks were used here for fermentation and malolactic. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2032. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)	2020	95	Butteaux is an older vineyard with an average age of around 45-50 years. Situated high on the hill, this is a cooler, windier site. It delivers a hint of pine tree and floral freshness on the nose. Very complex palate: savoury, saline, pristine and with a touch of orange-box from the oak. This has a marked, steely, cooler edge, which balances the generous volume in the mouth. It will undoubtedly last many years but is already disarmingly approachable. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2020	95	Very high on the slope, where the oldest vines are 85-90 years old. Plenty of density as expected for grand cru level. Savoury, with a touch of wood character coming through. Concentrated and saline to finish. Very classy; this will develop with ageing. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2032. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2020	95	Intriguing nose of lime and lemon zest, a hint of honey, then mineral, salty characters on the palate. A magnificent premier cru, this has the acidity and structure to age many years but is very fine already. The overall impression here is of a Chablis with power, density and which compares to a grand cru. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	95	Dauvissat’s small, 0.3ha Montée de Tonnerre parcel is in Côte de Bréchain. This is a cool, intense wine with the mineral character of Montée de Tonnerre coming through, with weight and density in great balance. A very elegant premier cru which finishes with a lovely salty note. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2020	95	From stony, pebbly soils, this is a precise, reserved Les Preuses which slowly builds on the palate, revealing a rich structure and increased mineral notes following a delicate start. A classic grand cru but keep it for several years before opening. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2037. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	95	Fèvre has three parcels in Montée de Tonnerre (its purest, most mineral premier cru): Chapelot, Pied d'Aloup and Côte de Bréchain, all facing different ways. Very precise, crystalline fruits, salinity, great acidity and a long, long finish. Will age beautifully, but great now. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2020	95	From 1.5ha on soils that are high in clay content above Bougros, together with 1ha just above Bouguerots. Distinct precision here, not a blockbuster but intense and focused. Lovely crystalline fruit and will age beautifully. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2034. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2020	94	As a tank sample this is still very youthful, there is clearly a lot of potential here. Fresh acidity matches the beautifully ripe fruit characters on the palate, yet this is not at all over-blown, and the wine seems lighter on the palate than the 13.5% alcohol. Restrained wood is barely perceptible. Could move to 95 points once bottled. Classy. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	94	Produced from three plots, one of which - Pied d'Aloup – is on average 84 years old. Intense nose, with a focused and pristine fruit character. Mineral with a touch of spice; an elegant wine with drive and precision. I suspect this will age very well and gain weight. No hurry to drink this. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2020	94	From three plots, two facing north, the other south. This is always a warm valley, and winemaker Olivier Bailly thinks Vaudésir and Blanchot are very similar. 100% matured in vats, with just the end of ageing done in wood to add a hint of spice. Ripe, generous, creamy but has a very good line of acidity as well. Quite warm, enticing, with an intriguing finish. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2020	94	Although still a little embryonic, there are promising signs, with the concentration on the palate allied to purity of fruit and more of a zesty lime and lemon character than peach. Very restrained oak and firm acidity bode very well for the future. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis	2020	94	It's immediately apparent that there is much more density here than with the Raveneau Petit Chablis. Extra layers of concentration, with wonderful purity of fruit and the typical undertow of minerality. A fine thread of acidity focuses everything on the palate. A lovely Chablis clearly ahead of many others. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2024. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2020	94	Raveneau's Montmains lies on very different soils to Forêts (here, they are very thin with vines an average of 35 years old). Despite being a windy site, there is a little more tropicality, with hints of orange blossom and a crystalline palate. This finishes with a fine line of acidity and a pronounced, chalky, mineral finish. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028 Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2020	94	Attractive, with hints of peach and flowers, coming from 45-year-old vines. Warm but not at all hot on the nose. Very fine line of acidity, plus an intriguing, pristine quality. Not a blockbuster; quite delicate and refined. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2034. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	94	As expected from the master, Jean-Marc Brocard, this is a very fine expression of Montée de Tonnerre which marries power and elegance in the same glass. Lovely purity on the nose with wildflowers and a hint of ripe peach. The palate is concentrated yet still very precise with citrus acidity and a long, lingering mineral finish. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2020	94	The Séguinot’s roots in Maligny date back to 1590. This is a complete Fourchaume from Jean-François Bordet which balances the richness, concentration and intensity of Fourchaume with fresh acid, a lovely mineral undertow and complexity of flavour. Disarmingly drinkable already, this has the potential to age and become a memorable Fourchaume in three to four years. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2020	94	Dauvissat's Séchet vines lie on deep soils, rich in seashells. Disarmingly drinkable already, this has a nicely integrated layer of subtle oak which adds further depth to the already concentrated palate. Could be enjoyed young but it would be best to allow this several years to fully blossom. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2020	94	Didier Séguier of William Fèvre says there is a distinct line of Marne soil here, as in Butteaux and Vaulorent. Very precise, showing a touch of orange zest on the palate, all kept in check by vibrant acidity and minerality. A rounded, complete Valmur with a long, saline finish. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2030. Click to see full details
Roland Lavantureux	Chablis (1er Cru Vaudevey)	2020	94	Roland founded the domaine in 1978, with sons Arnaud and David now running the business. Based in Lignerolles, the domaine now covers 21ha. Of this, 0.95ha is within Vau de Vey, consisting of vines averaging 35 years of age. A full, fleshy and dramatic Vau de Vey, with ripeness and generosity of fruit kept in check by the climat’s freshness. Maturation of 50% of the blend was in old oak which has added a touch of spiciness and extra intrigue to the palate. Very impressive. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Samuel Billaud, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)	2020	94	One of the special Samuel Billaud cuvées, the old vines really adding lots of extra density and concentration. Green apple on the palate, with a touch of red berry fruit as well. Powerful and complex, with great purity and a fine, mineral aftertaste. Will age very well. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Charlène & Laurent Pinson	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	93	A very classy, precise Montée de Tonnerre which has all the components needed to develop into a lovely drink with another year or two in bottle. From 40-year-old vines with 50% fermented in tank, the rest in older barrels using indigenous yeasts. This has a lovely suppleness about it, understated but full of energy and power at the same time. Very good concentration on the palate without being heavy, finishing with some great acidity. A real success. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Daniel Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2020	93	Full-bodied, dramatic Fourchaume, with weight and density derived from sun-drenched fruit all balanced by fine, crisp apple acidity. Generous and fleshy, this is not at all clumsy but retains great freshness on the palate, leaving one wanting another glass. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2020	93	Dominated by wood on the nose, the palate is very fresh, elegant and focused. There is plenty of concentration here from the gentler slopes of Bougros. Restraint, purity of fruit and a thoroughbred quality on show. A classy grand cru which will be delightful drinking in 18-24 months. Tank sample. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	93	Very elegant, cool and driven on both nose and palate. Fine citrus acidity, a thoroughbred with finesse and focus. Lots of potential. Produced from four parcels of varying ages (on average 40 years) ranging from the top of the hill to the bottom. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	93	From a selection of parcels in Sécher, Chatains, Roncières and Mélinots. Harvested separately and fermented before blending. Bright, very zippy, lemon acidity, crisp, floral, and with nice weight. 50% oak but very subtle, with winemaker Olivier Bailly using 600-litre casks of at least five years’ age for the maturation of Sécher. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)	2020	93	Billaud-Simon have just over 7ha, with only two steel barrels produced (700 bottles). Additional richness and concentration here. Sunny, very ripe fruit but not at all heavy, with the oak beautifully integrated, then a mineral, chalky finish. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)	2020	93	Made from purchased grapes, this is an elegant Valmur, with the wood a bit more obvious at the moment. Good concentration, fresh acidity and a touch of grip. A bit more stone fruit in character, with plenty of ageing potential. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis	2020	93	A relatively recent estate, Céline's father is Jean-Marc Brocard, whilst Frédéric worked at Domaine Durup. They continue to make great strides with their Chablis. This is a lovely example with concentration on the palate and extra layers of flavour compared to many. Despite the power and ripeness of fruit, the wine is kept in perfect balance by crisp acidity and a fine, mineral finish. Great stuff. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen	Chablis (1er Cru Vosgros)	2020	93	An unusual left-bank premier cru in that, despite facing south/southwest, Vosgros is generally a slower maturing climat. This is largely down to the limestone-rich soils, giving the wine a certain edginess when young. There is plenty of energy here, with pure, stone fruit flavours, a hint of some exotic fruits on the nose, yet all of this is balanced by very precise acidity and a mineral finish. Very complex and classy. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine de la Mandelière	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	93	Mont de Milieu encompasses 44ha of sun-drenched slopes which give the wine additional power, while retaining freshness from the limestone soils. This is a fine Mont de Milieu which delivers as expected - powerful, rich and vibrant yet with a strong core of acidity and structure. A premier cru destined to age very well. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine des Malandes	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2020	93	The domaine was created in 1949 by André Tremblay, before passing in 1972 to daughter Lyne Marchive. Since 2018 the 29ha estate has been run by Richard Rottiers and Amandine Marchive. A fine Montmains with some light oak notes evident on the nose and palate, combined with succulent peach fruit, citrus acidity, a hint of lime zest on the finish and matching acidity. A complex, weighty, but very balanced and complete premier cru. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)	2020	93	Raveneau's Forêts vines are situated at the bottom of the slope, lying on deeper soils. An elegant, rather than demonstrative premier cru, this Forêts is not the densest of their premier cru, but shows pure citrus fruits on the palate, very restrained wood with some cedar and spice evident, and a lovely focus on the finish. Isabelle Raveneau feels this will blossom with time in bottle and I believe her. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	93	Raveneau's Vaillon is planted on very steep slopes. Although the climat is often characterised by direct exposure to the sun, their vines are situated in a small vale which enables the vines to retain additional freshness. White flowers are apparent on the nose and although this Vaillons has a sunnier edge, this is matched by the acidity. Surprisingly delicate but with long-term ageing potential. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2029. Click to see full details
Domaine Gérard Tremblay	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2020	93	Gérard Tremblay is the fifth generation at this family domaine and is assisted by his wife Hélène. A generous Montmains which balances pure, ripe fruit notes on the nose and palate, with firm acidity and the concentration for extended ageing. Vines with an average age of 40 years old, 30% of the wine has been aged in older wood, adding to the complexity. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Sainte Claire	Chablis	2020	93	Some of the vines here are over 70 years old. Even with a reticent, understated nose one can sense the energy and precision in this wine. There’s a lovely, creamy texture on the palate, with bright citrus notes and a long, lingering, savoury, mineral finish. A very fine example of Chablis which would compete very effectively against many a premier cru. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Domaine Laurent et Céline Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Vaugiraut)	2020	93	Céline and Laurent Notton's Vaugiraut is produced from vines planted in 1935, and it has the aromatic intensity which this left-bank climat is renowned for. Pronounced mineral characters on the palate add to a hint of orange zest, with plenty of acidity giving lots of freshness and vitality to the wine. Drinking well already, this has a fine future ahead. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Long-Depaquit	Chablis (1er Cru Les Vaucoupins)	2020	93	Showing a steely edge to balance the slightly exotic, stone fruit characters on the nose, this is another classy Chablis from Long-Depaquit. A Premier Cru Chablis with plenty of concentration on the palate and a sunny character, yet framed by citrus acidity and a lingering mineral, saline finish. This has the power to age very well. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis	2020	93	Cool, restrained, Chablis which needs time to unfurl in the glass. There is a great deal of fruit purity on show though, combined with subtle ripeness of stone and orchard fruits, lovely acidity and an energy on the palate which makes one want to drink another glass. One of Jean-François Bordet's best. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis	2020	93	A fine Chablis which manages to be both powerful and concentrated, yet still retains a lovely lift. Plenty of acidity and distinctive mineral flavours on the palate, along with some spiced, confit lemon character to finish. Will age well. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2026. Click to see full details
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	93	From plots in Beugnons and Chatains, the oak is toasty on the nose, with a touch of orange-box evident alongside intriguing spice notes. Weighty on the palate, plush, this has a fair amount of puppy fat which it will shed with ageing in bottle. Plenty of acidity to keep everything in check. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis	2020	93	Domaine wine with 50-year-old vines from a number of vineyards, including north-facing plots underneath Les Lys, north west facing opposite Vaillons and south facing around Troesmes, plus some mineral soils from around Chichée. Intense and driven, you can smell the Kimmeridgian. Great energy and focus. Spice on the finish, precise acidity. Will age for many years. Bottled just before the 2021 harvest. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2026. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Les Lys)	2020	93	Very cool north-facing site, which is a sub-section of Vaillons and home to 50-60-year-old vines producing small, very concentrated berries. Intense and fruit-driven but has lovely freshness to support the density on the palate. Persistent, mineral, with touch of orange spice on the aftertaste. Very impressive already. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2020	93	A wine from a selection of sites over 3.9ha in Butteaux, Forêts and Montmains. Butteaux is very cold and mineral, while Forêts is elegant and floral. Great precision and focus here, allied with crystalline citrus fruits on the palate. Shows density, but is also very fresh, with lovely mineral characters on the finish. A highly successful Montmains. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2020	93	From 4ha of vineyards, this is an easy introduction to the Bougros Grand Cru. Acidity is well in check and the wine is generous, with 25% older wood used for maturation. Very nice weight and purity, minerality and an extra layer of richness compared to the premier cru. Higher yields here than Fèvre’s other grands crus, except Les Clos. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2030. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)	2020	93	Lovely intensity, drive, citrus zestiness and energy here. Concentrated and very elegant wine, with a great future ahead. Fine minerality to finish. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2030. Click to see full details
Le Domaine D'Henri, Saint Pierre	Chablis	2020	93	This domaine was created when Michel Laroche sold his interests in Domaine Laroche in 2010 and is named in honour of his father. This Chablis is named after the 12th century church of Saint Pierre. Lovely floral aromas here, with a touch of orange blossom on the nose. Weighty palate, with purity of pear and stone fruit flavours, before a salty, flinty finish. Great balance and concentration to encourage further ageing in bottle. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	93	Most of the cuvée is produced from Samuel's own vines and 20% is matured in demi-muid of 450-600 litres. Lime and orange zest notes on the palate; a premier cru with very good concentration. Due to be bottled in January 2022. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	93	Typical Montée de Tonnerre, with an elegant palate yet full of concentration and energy. Manages to be both rich and weighty, yet with lots of finesse and drive. Long future ahead. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Vincent Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	93	Vincent trained in the Jura and at Domaine Leflaive before starting to work with his father, setting up his own domaine in 2004. Vincent is a great fan of the acidity in Vaillons and this example proves his point. A combination of green apple and pear fruits, concentration and a mineral, vibrant edge, with that acidity holding everything together. A very energetic wine with a saline character on the finish. Beautifully balanced Vaillons. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Christophe et Fils	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	92	Purity of fruit with more of a pear character than stone fruit, and a touch of reduction on the nose that adds to the appeal. Nice weight on the palate, with lovely freshness to keep everything in balance. Not trying too hard, this will mature very nicely over the next couple of years. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Dampt Freres	Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)	2020	92	Vignoble Dampt is a complex business belonging to several brothers. Bougros is a fleshy, forward grand cru with concentration of stone and tree fruit and enough acidity to keep everything fresh. The mineral structure is a little subdued at the moment but will emerge as the fruit evolves. Juicy, mouth-filling and very pure in fruit flavour. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2029. Click to see full details
Dampt Freres	Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)	2020	92	This is a structured Preuses with a fine combination of fruit ripeness counterbalanced by acidity and salty, mineral notes on the finish. Perhaps not the most concentrated grand cru, this nonetheless retains a lot of elegance, finesse and will appeal to many. Has the potential to improve for two to three years. 25% of the wine was aged in oak barrels with the rest in stainless-steel. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Agnes & Didier Dauvissat, Les Brèches de Fyé	Chablis	2020	92	Produced by Agnès, Didier and Florent Dauvissat in Beines. A crisp, clean, dynamic Chablis with lovely citrus acidity and mineral notes to balance the ripeness of green apples and hints of peaches. Very appealing, finishes with a lingering mineral aftertaste. Has the concentration to develop well in bottle. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Domaine Bernard Defaix	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2020	92	Bernard Defaix started with just 2ha in 1959, with sons Sylvain and Didier now running operations. The domaine now extends over 27ha, with 8ha in Côte de Léchet. With slopes up to 38 degrees, exposure to the sun is a feature here, along with the pebbly soils. A tank sample, this has richness and warmth to it, with some oak character and leesy notes from extended ageing. Good freshness to finish. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2020	92	Small parcel for Billaud-Simon. Quite rich, as expected, but doesn't have the finesse of Vaillons. From the climat of Vaupoulent and fermented in tank, from vines grown on thin, stony soils at the top of the hill. Retains finesse and is for relatively early drinking. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2026. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon	Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)	2020	92	Produced with purchased grapes. Nice touch of subtle spice here, hints of orange and lime zest, nice fresh acidity, but just lacking a little mid-palate weight. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2026. Click to see full details
Domaine Billaud-Simon, Tête d'Or	Chablis	2020	92	Longer aged than the classic Chablis cuvée, with 25% matured in wood of different sizes. Plenty of weight and intensity from a selection of parcels just outside Montée de Tonnerre. Spicy, with some intriguing white pepper notes, Olivier Bailly says this will improve for at least three years. A wine to accompany food. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Domaine Camille & Laurent Schaller	Chablis	2020	92	Domaine Schaller is a family venture based in Préhy. Run by Laurent, with son Camille now in charge of winemaking, the domaine has adopted sustainable practices to produce fine wines across the gamut of Chablis appellations. From 30-year-old vines, the wine is fermented in steel then aged for 10 months on fine lees in steel tanks. A fine AOP Chablis with a salty, flinty character on the palate, vibrant acidity and green apple fruit. Displaying a good balance of acidity, weight, ripeness and elegance, this is a beautifully poised, fresh Chablis. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2024. Click to see full details
Domaine Clotilde Davenne	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2020	92	Based in Préhy, this is a classy Vaucoupin which neither shows an excess of fruit ripeness, nor a leaner, more acidic style. Very good purity of fruit here with a touch of lime and orange on the palate, combined with a mineral structure underneath which keeps the palate very fresh. Restrained, elegant Vaucoupin which is drinking well but will age. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine François Raveneau	Chablis (Petit Chablis)	2020	92	From vines grown on the plateau above Les Clos, this is a great introduction to the Raveneau style, showing a lovely crystalline purity on the nose. The palate has a light touch of honey as this wine, like all others in the range, is matured in older wooden vessels. Raveneau's Petit Chablis is a relatively new addition, with the vines planted in 2010 and the first vintage being 2014. What a great place to start. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2024. Click to see full details
Domaine Gautheron	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	92	Quite restrained for Mont de Milieu in 2020, this has a gentle palate yet with plenty of precision. Notes of apple and pear fruit, with fine, lemon-driven acidity and a lingering, salty finish. Not showy but with very good persistence on the finish. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean Claude Courtault	Chablis	2020	92	An evolving family concern, originally created in 1984 by Jean-Claude and Marie-Chatal Courtault, the business has been bolstered since 2007 by the arrival of daughter Stephanie and her husband Vincent Michelot. The domaine now comprises 22ha. A very complete, elegant and rounded Chablis with plenty to appeal to purists, as well as those looking for some softer fruit characters. Pure and fresh to finish. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2024. Click to see full details
Domaine Jean Claude Courtault	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2020	92	Cooler, quite restrained style of Fourchaume. Has a distinctive mineral, earthy feel with a touch of spice and some interesting notes of orange-box on the palate. Not a blockbuster but refreshing and elegant. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Laroche, Saint Martin	Chablis	2020	92	Classy, understated style of Chablis with a great balance between ripeness of fruit and powerful acidity. The palate has a creamy texture with no jagged edges and fine, mineral characters coming through on the finish. Real purity and drive here - one of the best Saint Martin Chablis I've tried. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Domaine Laurent et Céline Notton	Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)	2020	92	A richer, fuller, glossier style of Vaucoupin, with stone fruit on the palate and a touch of something a little more exotic on the finish. Despite the weight and concentration, there is plenty of acidity and mineral drive to keep the wine fresh in the mouth. Will age. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Louis Moreau	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	92	Very elegant Vaillons, with fine acidity to support the delicate palate of understated stone and apple fruit. Certainly not a showy wine, this is reserved but will undoubtedly blossom. It has a lovely foundation from the acidity and mineral notes which will keep the wine fresh for many years. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Orion	Chablis	2020	92	A new estate, with 10ha based in Préhy, established by Lea Schaller following the retirement of her father in 2019. Very clean, crisp, elegant Chablis with appealing layers of flavour and a long, lingering, mineral-edged finish. Apple fruit character with a hint of zesty citrus on the palate, plus a hint of gunflint; this is thirst-quenching and vibrant. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2024. Click to see full details
Domaine Oudin	Chablis (1er Cru Les Vaucoupins)	2020	92	Vaucoupin is a sunny, south and west facing right-bank climat, south of Chablis. This premier cru shows many of the characters associated with the limestone and dry white clay found here - a certain austerity matched with a touch of smoky reduction. Although certainly not as weighty as might be expected from Vaucoupin's sunny position, this is an elegant, cool Chablis with plenty of ageing potential. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine P-L & J-F Bersan, Cuvée Marianne	Chablis	2020	92	Cuvée Marianne comes from 50-year-old vines, fermented with natural yeasts. Weighty and concentrated, with ripe apricot and red apple fruits, this will age well for several years. Intriguing notes of quince and spices on the palate, which possesses a long aftertaste. A very individual and classy Chablis Tank sample. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2023. Click to see full details
Domaine Pinson Frères	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	92	Understated power is evident on the nose. Initially quite reticent, this unfurls with more aeration, developing toasty, spicy characters from maturation in older wood. Lemon and lime zest on the palate keeps everything fresh. A classy Mont de Milieu which will age well for at least three to four years. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Beugnons)	2020	92	Les Beugnons is one of the eight climats within the wider Vaillons Premier Cru, with a moderate slope and south to southwest exposure, making it an earlier-ripening climat. In 2020, this is a fine premier cru wine with intensity and concentration of stone fruit and red apples. Plushly textured, this is balanced by typical Vaillons acidity and a chalky, drying minerality on the palate. Will be a fine gastronomic wine. Very successful and complex in character. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Sébastien Dampt	Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)	2020	92	A very precise, focused example of the distinctive Côte de Léchet. Apple notes on the nose are combined with some white flower aromas, with a fine texture, great acidity and a refined mouthfeel. Driving acidity on the finish suggests this is a premier cru built for longer ageing. Lots of purity here. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028. Click to see full details
Domaine Ternynck	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	92	A tank sample and a little deeper in colour than expected, but there is a fine balance between ripe stone fruit and the underlying structure of Kimmeridgian soil, with a distinctive mineral undertow. Oak is a little evident, but this will settle once bottled and matured. Plenty of interest and purity here. One to watch. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine Ternynck	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	92	Situated in Préhy, Domaine Ternynck has been certified HVE (High Environmental Value) since 2015, and has been in conversion to organic since 2018, and biodynamic since 2019. The estate also produces red wines and Sauvignon Saint-Bris, as well as experimenting with clay amphorae. A classy Vaillons with aromas of wildflowers, orchard fruit and a fine thread of acidity to keep the palate fresh. Generous texture from ageing on lees, there is lovely purity of fruit here and potential for improvement over several years. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Beauroy)	2020	92	There’s quite a bit of spice here although the palate is restrained and with good concentration. Less showy, a wine built for the long haul, this is classy and will age very well. From three parcels in Beauroy. No battonage, 25-30% in wood and 16-17 months maturation. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2020	92	Quite a lot of weight here. A tad overripe perhaps? Less precision than the other wines so far. Big, powerful example of Fourchaume. Loads of acidity to keep everything fresh, should age well, perhaps not in quite such an elegant way. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)	2020	92	Fèvre’s Mont de Milieu shows a slightly different fruit profile, being a tad richer and broader in character. Fresh and fleshy on the palate, this is a little less harmonious now but will age well and get better with some age in bottle. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Domaine William Fèvre	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	92	A restrained Vaillons with nice balance but not quite the drive of this producer’s Montmains at the moment. A precocious, richer example of premier cru but with the stuffing to age well, showing sappy fruit, with a lovely hint of lime on the palate. Relatively early drinking but will keep. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2026. Click to see full details
Dominique Gruhier	Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)	2020	92	Dominique Gruhier took over the estate in 1990 and it has been organically certified since 2010. From vines planted in 1976, this is an intriguing, organic Montée de Tonnerre. There's plenty happening here, ranging from the powerful nose of vibrant, toasty, spicy characters through to the zesty lime and orange notes on the palate. Underneath all of this is characteristic minerality and flintiness waiting to emerge. I am interested to see how this develops over the next two to three years. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
J Moreau & Fils	Chablis	2020	92	Still quite primary, perhaps as it's a tank sample, but there is great precision here and this Chablis clearly has the concentration and depth to develop extremely well, showing hints of stone fruit matched with green apple. Plenty of acidity is evident, as is a flinty, savoury aftertaste. Would be good to taste once bottled but there is enough on show already to suspect it will be very classy. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Le Domaine D'Henri	Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)	2020	92	Spicy, toasty notes on the nose and palate. Plenty of concentration here with excellent acidity acting as a great counterfoil for the density on the palate. Easy to identify this as Fourchaume. Weighty, rich, quite dramatic, albeit a little bit showy for some tastes. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Les Marronniers	Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)	2020	92	Montmains is a substantial Premier Cru, covering 118ha. With morning sun and a windier aspect, it is cooler than neighbouring Vaillons. This is emphasised in this example with drive and energy within the succulent, ripe fruit on the palate. Good acidity and mineral notes to finish. Although a tank sample this has lots of potential. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2027. Click to see full details
Maison Stephane Brocard, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis	2020	92	Stéphane Brocard, son of Jean-Marc, set up his own négociant business in 2007. From old vines, this has power on the nose, with concentrated peach fruit combined with a hint of bitter pear skin and green apple acidity on the palate. Plenty of complexity and interesting layers of flavour, finishing with a marked salty, mineral note and freshness, this is a fine vieilles vignes Chablis which will age well. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details
Roland Lavantureux	Chablis	2020	92	A wine which captures the essence of classic Chablis from the past yet manages to make it modern and more approachable. Lots of concentration of fruit with great purity, allied with a salty aftertaste and a fine line of lemon and lime acidity. Despite the weight, this is lifted and lively on the palate. A fine Chablis. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2026. Click to see full details
Samuel Billaud	Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)	2020	92	Another premier cru produced from bought-in grapes, the warmth of the vintage can be seen in the fuller, riper, fleshier style, yet this is a premier cru which has an extra layer of depth and concentration. A serious Chablis which is destined to age well. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Samuel Billaud, Vieilles Vignes	Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)	2020	92	A blend of roughly half Samuel's own grapes, with the balance from a long-term grower relationship. This is a lovely Vaillons with an intense floral nose, combined with light peach and apricot fruit on the palate, all kept in check by linear citrus acidity. Complex, cool on the palate and with great tension. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2028. Click to see full details
Vincent Dampt	Chablis	2020	92	A complex Chablis, as expected from this leading Milly domaine. As well as purity of fruit flavour, there are extra levels of gunflint, savoury notes and great acidity; lots of energy on the palate here. A more serious Chablis but one to appeal to lovers of this appellation. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2025. Click to see full details

Chablis 2020: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2020 wines

Top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2020 wines

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2020 wines

Top scoring Petit Chablis 2020 wines

Chablis 2020: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 01 Dec 2021 08:00:33 +0000

Quick links

Analysis of individual appellations and their top-scoring wines coming soon:

Grand cru Chablis | Premier cru Chablis | Chablis | Petit Chablis | Top-value Chablis (coming soon)

Following on from the super-concentrated 2019s and the softer, peachier style of 2018, the word most heard during my recent visit to Chablis was ‘classic’.

While 2020 may not quite have the linear acidity of 2014, there are a lot of similarities with 2017, another classic year. Although 2020 was a very early vintage, it was not a particularly hot one and managed to avoid the dramatic heat spikes of 2018 and 2019.

My high tasting scores suggest that this is a vintage which can be rated at least four stars, with a wide incidence of five-star wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Chablis 2020 wines

Domaine Seguinot-Bordet’s Jean-Francois Bordet, President of the BIVB Chablis commission, says ‘it was a very classic vintage’. Olivier Bailly of Domaine Billaud-Simon echoes that verdict, confirming ‘2020 is a classic vintage more like 2014 and 2017 than 2018 or 2019’.

Vincent Dauvissat, whom I visited while he was dashing around in the cellar moving wines between barrels, stopped long enough to describe the year as a ‘magnificent’ vintage.

On a visit to Domaine Francois Raveneau, Isabelle Raveneau confirmed the general view, noting that 2020 was ‘more classic than 2019’, although she believes 2019 was still ‘a fine year which was very concentrated and had great density, as it was only half the yield’.

Recipe for success

Following the reduced crop in 2019, and the exceedingly difficult 2016 vintage (devastated by bouts of frost and hail), the weather in 2020 was generally kind to Chablis producers.

Winter saw plenty of rainfall to boost water reserves and the mild start to the year encouraged early budburst, although producers feared the worst when temperatures plummeted at the end of March and early April.

Bailly said he had spent seven nights in his vineyards lighting frost-protection candles (bougies), but fortunately damage was slight and only affected the lowest sites.

A warm April was followed by soaring temperatures in May, which encouraged a rapid, successful flowering.

Summer was warm and dry, with July experiencing virtually no rain. However, due to ample water reserves, few vines were adversely affected, the main impact being smaller grape sizes which boosts concentration but reduces the potential yield at harvest.

Occasional showers in August freshened up the vines, with some localised hailstorms affecting the villages of Béru and Beines on 12 August.

The growth cycle was completed 15-20 days earlier than normal in the past 20 years, with harvest starting on 24 August and finishing within three weeks. Alcohol levels are generally between 0.5 and 1 degree lower than 2019, with higher levels of tartaric acid in the grapes – all the ingredients for a fine Chablis vintage.

Raveneau said their harvest began on 28 August, the second earliest after 2003, although she felt it was ‘a completely different year in the vineyard’.

She described 2020 as an ‘easy’ vintage, not because shortcuts could be taken, but because producers had sufficient time to make careful decisions about what to do, and when. For her, the objective is simple, ‘to produce the very best wine we can make from the healthiest raw material’.

At Domaine Louis Moreau, Louis Moreau agreed that 2020 gave producers plenty of time to make the best choices in both the vineyard and at harvest time – the opposite of what happened in the difficult 2021 growing season.

Chablis: know your vintages

2019 Some spikes of heat, but the grapes were very concentrated giving Chablis wines with weight and the acidity to support the ripe fruit. Best sites will keep many years.

2017 A fine vintage, plenty of acidity, floral and mineral notes, and a lot more drive and intensity than in either 2016 or 2018. Vintage to keep.

2016 Beset by frost and hail damage – very low yields as a result. Decent wines were made but acidity quite low; all but the best premiers crus and grands crus need drinking.

See all 180 Chablis 2020 tasting notes and scores

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Quality across the board

In 2020, it appears that overall quality is not only high, but also homogenous across quality tiers, vineyard sites and both banks of the Serein river.

Petit Chablis was very successful with many wines showing an attractive stone-fruit character combined with freshness and approachability. The wines will provide some excellent short-term drinking before many of the best Chablis are ready.

Nearly all of the Chablis AOP tasted showed a distinct step up in concentration, with more pronounced acidity, apple (sometimes pear) fruit notes and a distinctly mineral edge. Although there is a thirst for youthful Chablis among consumers, this is one dry white wine that will benefit from careful ageing.

Premier cru Chablis adds more ageability and a lot more terroir influence, with the top climats showing very strongly. Montmains and Vaillons were impressive, while on the right-bank of the Serein, Mont de Milieu and Vaulorent shone, the latter showing why it is regarded by many as comparable to Chablis grand cru. As expected, the wines from Montée de Tonnerre lived up to their lofty reputation. Consistently good across every producer tasted, these will be wines to enjoy after a few years’ bottle age, and then over the next decade.

Oliver Bailly advises that the premier cru wines from 2020 should be aerated in a decanter for at least an hour if they are broached within the first two to three years following the vintage.

Chablis grand cru delivers extra levels of concentration, excellent long-term ageing potential, power and additional layers of texture via a greater use of oak. Les Clos and Les Preuses were perhaps the most memorable of all the wines tasted.

The top performers

The must-buy wines of 2020 range across many appellations, producers and sites. The wines of Domaine William Fèvre are stunning across the board. The effort put in by managing director Didier Seguier and his team to extract the maximum expression of individual terroirs is very impressive, with the results clearly evident in the glass.

A tasting of Samuel Billaud’s range showed why he is now considered another Chablis superstar.

And it is no surprise that Domaine Francois Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat are producing the finest Chablis on the planet. Raveneau’s Les Clos was my wine of the vintage, but I would be extremely happy to be the owner of a single bottle of the Chablis or Petit Chablis, as these wines are also stunning.

Chablis – Decanter vintage ratings

2020 ****

2019 ****

2018 ***

2017 ****

2016 **

2015 ***

2014 *****

2013 **

2012 ****

Chablis: the facts and figures

As with other wines from Bourgogne, Chablis has seen strong growth in both revenue and volume in the past six months. According to the BIVB, white wines in 2020 accounted for a record 64% of the volume of wines produced in Burgundy, with Chablis the engine room for the region.

The UK remains a key market for the wines of Burgundy and has regained its position as the leading export market for Chablis, with revenue up by 9% and volume up by 13%, compared to 2019.

Sales have been driven mostly by Petit Chablis and Chablis, benefitting from higher production in 2020. Overall volumes in 2020 were up 16% compared to the average over the past five years.

Chablis has a total of 5,771ha under vine, with the Chablis AOP accounting for 66% of the planted area. Petit Chablis represents 19% and premier cru 14%, while grand cru comprises 102ha, just 1% of the total area.

Overall

2020 is a very fine vintage which is not easy to compare to other years. Although very early, the dry weather and absence of heat spikes meant that grape quality and health was exceptional.

Yields were slightly impacted by the dry weather, but this only appears to have added to the vitality of the wines.

Demand for Chablis is high and consumers should undoubtedly take the opportunity to stock up on 2020 and enjoy it over the next decade, as the wines represent fantastic value compared to many wines from the Cote d’Or.

The only shadow is that cast by the 2021 vintage. Where 2020 was kind to producers, 2021 presented a universally challenging growing season and yields will be no more than 50% of a normal year. Bulk prices are already rocketing and this will impact the price of bottled wines in 2022.

On a more positive note, early reports suggest the quality in 2021 is remarkably good considering the viticultural challenges, but the absence of volume will take its toll.

Andy Howard MW’s top-scoring Chablis 2020 wines:

The following wines all scored 94 points or above

Affordable Burgundy: top 30 buys Back roads of Burgundy: 10 Côte de Beaune producers to know Top five white Burgundy vintages ready to drink now Investing in Burgundy: search on for next stars

Last chance to buy Bonneau du Martray virtual masterclass tickets for Decanter at Home event

What happened to Chablis? Ask Decanter

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 03 May 2021 07:00:13 +0000

Mark Smyly, Wantage, Oxfordshire, UK, asks: Modern-day Chablis is nothing like the heaven-in-a-glass, stony mineral wines that used to be my favourite white wine by a long way in the 1960s. What has changed?

Andy Howard MW, a contributing editor to Decanter and a DWWA Regional Chair, replies: Like you, I have long been a fan of the structured, fine acidity and discreet (if at all) oak of Chablis, and that salty, pebbly, gunflint character. I agree the style has changed since the 1960s – it was this change that drove me to write my Master of Wine dissertation on Chablis.

On balance, I think the changes have been for the better, with fewer harsh, green and lean wines. In the vineyard, new rootstocks and better frost-prevention systems have been introduced.

As mechanical harvesting has been brought in, many producers have moved away from pressing whole bunches, though some observers feel this has encouraged oxidative characters. Modern presses are cleaner and highly efficient, although there are arguments that this may remove some of the body and character of the wine.

These changes are set against a background of warmer growing seasons. I suggest you focus on ‘classic’ vintages (2010/2012/2014/2017) and avoid those more marked by heat (2016/2018/2019).

Try some long lees-aged wines (Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Bernard Defaix), or those where fermentation in wood harks back to earlier times (Vocoret) – or some of the concrete-egg-matured Chablis from Jean-Marc Brocard.

Also consider a cooler, north-facing vineyard such as premier cru Les Lys.

This was first published in the May 2021 issue of Decanter magazine.

Chablis 2019: Best-value wines under £20/$25

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Chablis 2019: Best-value wines under £20/$25

Ines Salpico — Fri, 27 Nov 2020 10:00:08 +0000

In his Chablis 2019 vintage report, Andy Howard MW highlighted how this vintage delivered consistent quality but also clear tier differentiation. This could make the case for investing in the Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines which, he argued, offer not only great ageing potential but also very good value in the context of Burgundy.

Grand Cru Chablis sits, competitively, at a price-point comparable to that of Premier Cru Puligny and Meursault; Premier Cru Chablis, on the other hand, delivers greater complexity and exclusivity at a price tag similar to Côte de Beaune villages.

However there is plenty of value to be found for less than £20 with three Premier Crus included in the round up.

Daniel Dampt’s 1er Cru Côte de Léchet (£17), Malandes’ 1er Cru Vau de Vey (£19) and Séguinot-Bordet’s 1er Cru Fourchaume (£17) all scored 93 in Andy Howard MW’s assessment of the vintage and will age beautifully for five years, if not more. These are top-value picks that don’t compromise on quality or the expressiveness of each of their climats.

Quick links

Chablis 2019 top-scoring wines by appellation:

Petit Chablis, AOP Chablis, Premier Cru, Grand Cru

At AOC and Petit Chablis levels less ageability is offset by an alluring drinkability, with the seductiveness of ripe fruit supported by a firm mineral structure and vibrant acidity.

The good performance of AOC Chablis in Andy Howard MW’s report highlights the overall quality standard of the vintage itself. Winemakers mentioned how villages fruit achieved the same level of maturity and concentration seen at Premier Cru level in other vintages meaning this year is a perfect opportunity to stock up on competitively priced bottlings with character and typicity.

Chablis 2019: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Chablis 2019 wines priced under £20/$25 rated 92+ points (tasting notes below)

Daniel Dampt, 1er Cru Côte de Léchet – £17

Domaine des Malandes, 1er Cru Vau de Vey – £19

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet,1er Cru Fourchaume – £17

Domaine Gérard Tremblay, AOC Chablis – £20

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, AOC Chablis 2019 – £16.95

Domaine Louis Moreau, AOC Chablis – £17

Domaine Vrignaud, Petit Chablis 2019 – £15.75

Union des Viticulteurs de Chablis, AOC Chablis – £18

La Chablisienne, AOC Chablis – £18

Domaine Millet, AOC Chablis – £19

Samuel Billaud, AOC Chablis 2019 – £18.88

*The prices are based on 2019 wines that are currently available in the market. For those that have not yet been released, 2018 prices have been used as a benchmark

The list also outlines the competitive value offered by some producers, whose wines from different appellations ranked equally well and all sit on the shelves under the £20 mark. Séguinot-Bordet is the perfect example with the 1er Cru Fourchaume, AOC Chablis and Petit Chablis all scoring highly. As are Louis Moreau’s AOC Chablis and Petit Chablis.

For comparison, below are the prices for the top-rated Chablis 2019 wines scoring 94 points and above:

Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots, Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru) – £62 ex vat

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Monopole, Chablis (Moutonne Grand Cru Monopole) – £82 ex vat

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Monopole, Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru) – £35 ex vat

Domaine Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru) – £50 ex vat

Samuel Billaud, Vielles Vignes, Chablis (1er Cru Sechets) – £24.16

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru) – £69 ex vat

Roland Lavantureux, Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey) – £50 ex vat

Domaine Corinne Perchaud, Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin) – £30 inc vat

Domaine des Malandes Envers de Valmur, Chablis – £21 inc vat

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre) – £22 ex vat

Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre, Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent) – £22 ex vat

Domaine Vrignaud, Les Vaupulans, Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume) – £32 ex vat

*The prices are based on 2019 wines that are currently available in the market. For those that have not yet been released, 2018 prices have been used as a benchmark

If 2019 offered enough quality and classical Chablis character for consumers to buy and drink confidently, our best-value selection becomes an even more intriguing guide to pleasurable bottles that won’t break the bank.

Best value Chablis 2019

Top five Chablis vintages to drink now

Chablis 2017 v 2018: 40 wines rated

Chablis spotlight: William Fèvre

Top scoring Petit Chablis 2019

Andy Howard MW — Thu, 26 Nov 2020 10:30:47 +0000

As a rather classical vintage, underpinned by unmistakable Chablis minerality, 2019 delivered Petit Chablis wines that will please the regions’ followers both in the short and the medium term.

As already mentioned in round-ups of the top-scoring Grand Cru Chablis, Premier Cru Chablis and AOP Chablis wines, 2019 was a vintage of consistent quality but also of significant jumps – in expressiveness and ageing potential – across tiers.

Scroll down for the top scoring Petit Chablis 2019 tasting notes and scores

If the ageability of the wines at the top of the pyramid makes the case for trading up and investing in bottles that have excellent potential after some time in the cellar, there’s also a case to be made for enjoying the delightful young and more affordable allure of this vintage’s lower tiers.

See the Chablis 2019 full vintage report and top scoring wines

At the ‘entry’ level, Petit Chablis is already drinking well with appealing wines marrying ripe stoned- and apple-fruit character with density and lacy acidity.

Lovely examples were produced by J. Moreau, Dampt and Samuel Billaud – the latter from a privileged site just above Les Clos.

The list below highlights how well this vintage performed, delivering enough concentration, acidity and poise to balance the seductive appeal of its most drinkable, approachable wines.

The luscious fruit is there, but so is structure and respectable length. Friendly, but not simple, enjoyable wines.

Top scoring Petit Chablis 2019

Chablis 2019: Full vintage report and top scoring wines

Identifying the best Burgundy vineyards

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2019 wines

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 25 Nov 2020 13:13:55 +0000

Challenging weather conditions in 2019 had an impact on yields while keeping quality high across all levels of Chablis wines.

In broad terms, it can be viewed as a ‘half-way house’ between the higher acidity levels seen in 2017, and the ripe, rounded, less acidic 2018s. But this is an over-simplification – 2019 Chablis is a very complex year as a result of varied climatic factors affecting this marginal wine producing region.

Scroll down for the top scoring Chablis AOP 2019 tasting notes and scores

Value-wise, Chablis at all levels remains a great buy with straight Chablis and Petit Chablis offering excellent value and early drinking pleasure.

Benoit Droîn commented that ‘2019 is a homogenous year, where even less favoured terroirs have produced concentrated wines as a result of low yields’. Didier Seguier said ‘the maturity of village appellations are close to the same level of the Cru in other years’.

See the Chablis 2019 full vintage report and top scoring wines

The 2019 vintage seems to be one which accentuates terroir character, as well as showing clear differentiation between the tiers, and as such Villages Chablis is a distinct step-up from Petit Chablis in weight.

Most of these wines showed a strong Kimmeridgian influence and although some wines were disarmingly fleshy, high-acidity kept most under control.

It’s worth looking out for producer’s ‘special’ bottlings of AOP Chablis:

Domaine des Malandes, Chablis ‘Envers de Valmur’ is from a vineyard directly opposite the Grand Cru

The following are also well worth the extra money:

Domaine Lavantureaux, Chablis Vauprin
Julian Brocard, Les 7 Lieux Chablis
Sylvain Mosnier, Vieilles Vignes Chablis
Laurent et Celine Notton, Vieilles Vignes Chablis

Villages Chablis epitomises the classical nature of this vintage, with the region’s trademark acidity underpinning an appealing generosity of fruit and texture.

While most of the Grand and Premier Crus will benefit from some time in the cellar, AOP Chablis is already offering great pleasure without compromising on expressiveness.

A great vintage to explore the straight Villages level, competitive in both quality and value.

Top scoring AOP Chablis 2019 wines

Chablis 2019: Full Vintage report and Top scoring wines

Identifying the best Burgundy vineyards

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2019

Andy Howard MW — Tue, 24 Nov 2020 14:00:54 +0000

All the producers I spoke to believe 2019 is, at the very least, a very fine vintage, with the quality and character showcased particularly well by the Grand Cru wines.

Scroll down for the top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2019 tasting notes and scores

Guillaume Michel of Domaine Louis Michel said ‘2019 has all the hallmarks of a great year’ – a view supported by Jean-François Bordet at Domaine Seguinot-Bordet.

Benoit Droîn believes ‘2019 is a classic vintage despite the adverse effects of the sun’, adding that it is a ‘homogenous year across different sites where low yields have resulted in good acidity and great concentration’.

See the Chablis 2019 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Anne Moreau, of Domaine Louis Moreau, says ‘2019 is quite classic for Chablis, closer to 2017 than 2018. It has unmistakeable Chablis acidity’.

While Grand Cru Chablis 2019 will need a bit longer than others to come round (some Villages and Petit Chablis already offer great drinking pleasure), there is undoubted potential for some spectacular bottles.

Best climats

A number of producers noted the success of the cooler sites, with Droin describing Valmur and Les Clos as ‘cold terroirs which are magnificent’.

Seguier saw even more concentration at Fevre’s unique Côte de Bouguerots, a sub-section of Bougros with thin soils and vertiginous slopes up to 52%.

I also found a lot of interest in the east-facing Blanchot Grand Cru – this climat is often overlooked, but in hot years is capable of achieving great results.

Value

It’s impossible to taste the Grand Cru Chablis 2019 – with all their power and ageing potential – without also considering the great value they offer.

Prices for Burgundy continue to increase, with Grand and Premier Cru wines reaching eye-watering levels.

For a similar price to Premier Cru Puligny and Meursault, consumers can choose from a wide selection of the best Grand Cru Chablis.

If 2019 offered consistent quality across all Chablis, the vintage also accentuated the difference between tiers and the expressiveness of each climat.

This, alongside the relative good value of the top wines, makes the case for customers to focus on the Grand Cru bottles, even if some of them will require a bit of time to come into their own.

Drinking windows

In terms of drinking windows, 2019 Chablis will be approachable when young, but has the concentration and acidity to age well, particularly at Premier and Grand Cru level.

Of recent vintages, 2016 should generally be drunk now and 2018, with its ripeness and lower acidity, can also be enjoyed earlier. I would advise keeping your finer 2017s for some time – these have the acidity but not always the fleshiness of 2019. The best 2019s will age a very long time.

Top scoring Grand Cru Chablis 2019 wines

Chablis 2019: Full Vintage report and Top scoring wines

Chablis 2019: Top Scoring Premier Cru wines

Identifying the best Burgundy vineyards

Top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2019

Andy Howard MW — Tue, 24 Nov 2020 10:29:20 +0000

In a vintage shaped by the depth and concentration resulting from lower yields, 2019 in Chablis delivered consistent quality across tiers.

But the differences between each level were also more marked with clear jumps in expressiveness and age-worthiness.

Scroll down for the top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2019 tasting notes and scores

It’s worth trading up to appreciate the terroir influence that Chablis offers.

Nestled between the very good but yet shy Grand Crus and the approachable Villages and Petit Chablis, the Premier Crus offer a great compromise when it comes to both quality and price.

If the price tags for Grands Crus compete with Premier Cru Puligny and Meursault, Premier Cru Chablis over-delivers compared to village wines from the Côte de Beaune.

See the Chablis 2019 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Of the 100 Premier Cru tasted, just under 70% achieved silver medal status, which equates to 90 points or above.

Best climats

Montée de Tonnerre and Vaulorent live up to their reputation, with a lovely combination of ripe fruit, purity and flinty, mineral notes.

Benoît Droin views these climats, along with Montmains, as ‘very accomplished’ in 2019.

Guillaume Michel favours Montée de Tonnerre, whilst Didier Seguier highlighted Vaulorent’s ‘unique position as the only Premier Cru on the slope of the Grand Cru’.

Vintage comparisons

Chablis has endured some challenging times throughout the past decade.

2016 was devastated by frost and hail, with frost also seriously impacting volumes in 2017. Conversely, 2011 was a year to forget with high volumes and disappointing quality.

2010 and 2014 were great years, with the latter appealing more to Chablis ‘classicists’, and this is the year most revered by producers, despite many wines remaining linear and tight.

It seems that climactic disruptions are now becoming the new norm but Chablis producers are very resourceful and are learning how to cope with hotter, drier years.

2019 is a much more typical Chablis year than the warm vintages of 2006, 2009, 2015 and 2018.

In terms of drinking windows, 2019 Chablis will be approachable when young, but has the concentration and acidity to age well, particularly at Premier and Grand Cru level.

Top scoring Premier Cru Chablis 2019

Chablis 2019: Full vintage report and top scoring wines

Chablis 2019: Top Scoring Grand Cru wines

Identifying the best Burgundy vineyards

Chablis 2019: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Andy Howard MW — Mon, 23 Nov 2020 10:00:02 +0000

Quick links

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines coming soon:

Grand Cru Chablis , Premier Cru Chablis, AOP Chablis, Petit Chablis, Top value Chablis 2019

Summing up 2019, Louis Moreau, president of the Chablis Commission of the Burgundy wine board (BIVB), said ‘we have been able to produce a top-quality vintage’.

After recently tasting 250 samples in London, my take is that 2019 is a fine year for Chablis, and that lovers of the wines emanating from this cool northern outpost of Burgundy, should buy with confidence.

Scroll down for Andy Howard’s top-scoring Chablis 2019 wines

In broad terms, it can be viewed as a ‘half-way house’ between the higher acidity levels seen in 2017, and the ripe, rounded, less acidic 2018s.

But this is an over-simplification – 2019 Chablis is a very complex year as a result of varied climatic factors affecting this marginal wine producing region.

History

Chablis has endured some challenging times throughout the past decade.

2016 was devastated by frost and hail, with frost also seriously impacting volumes in 2017. Conversely, 2011 was a year to forget with high volumes and disappointing quality.

2010 and 2014 were great years, with the latter appealing more to Chablis ‘classicists’, and this is the year most revered by producers, despite many wines remaining linear and tight.

It seems that climactic disruptions are now becoming the new norm but Chablis producers are very resourceful and are learning how to cope with hotter, drier years.

2019 is a much more typical Chablis year than the warm vintages of 2006, 2009, 2015 and 2018.

See all Chablis 2019 tasting notes and scores

(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Weather and growing conditions

2019 began with a cold, wet January and February, and cool March. Budburst started early April and frost was a threat during the month – Guillaume Michel observing that vineyard ‘candles’ needed to be lit several times.

June was cool, with an extended period of flowering and this is where the key characters for 2019 were set. Sébastien Dampt, from Domaine Sébastien Dampt, noted ‘the flowering was not easy, with a lot of millerandage’. According to Matthieu Mangenot, from Domaine Long-Depaquit, ‘rain, winds and cool temperatures caused millerandage, leading to yield losses between 25-40%’.

With lower yields already looming, these were exacerbated by a hot summer that included two heat-waves and extreme dryness with rainfall down around 70%.

Where this might have ruined other vintages, these factors all worked together in Chablis 2019 to deliver small, extremely healthy, grapes allowing a significant reduction in the use of treatments.

Evaporation added to the yield loss but with the upside of concentrated berries, higher sugar and acidity levels, with more prominent aromatics. The harvest commenced around the normal time – 9th September at Long-Depaquit, 11th for Dampt, and 14th at Louis Michel.

Quality versus volume

Whilst quality is high, volumes in 2019 were lower than average, largely due to the combined effects of cool-weather during flowering, summer heat-waves and low rainfall.

Total production in 2019 amounted to just over 400,000 bottles across all appellation levels, a decrease of 9% from 2018.

However, compared to the frost and hail-devastated 2016, the overall situation is encouraging, with production 50% higher in the key Chablis AOP.

In addition, cellars had been replenished after the super-abundant crop in 2018, so lower volumes in 2019 are unlikely to seriously impact stock levels.

There should be plenty of Chablis 2019 to buy.

Value

Value-wise, Chablis at all levels remains a great buy. Prices for Burgundy continue to increase, with Grand and Premier Cru wines reaching eye-watering levels.

For a similar price to Premier Cru Puligny and Meursault, consumers can choose from a wide selection of the best Grand Cru Chablis. Premier Cru Chablis over-delivers compared to village wines from the Côte de Beaune, whilst straight Chablis and Petit Chablis also offer great value and early drinking pleasure.

In 2019, the quality tiers showed through very clearly and although this is a consistently strong vintage across the region, it’s worth trading up to appreciate the terroir influence that Chablis offers.

All the producers I spoke to believe 2019 is, at the very least, a very fine vintage. Guillaume Michel, from Domaine Louis Michel, says ‘2019 has all the hallmarks of a great year’ – a view supported by Jean-François Bordet at Domaine Seguinot-Bordet.

Chablis – Decanter vintage ratings

2019 ****

2018 ***

2017 ****

2016 **

2015 ***

2014 *****

2013 **

2012 ****

At Domaine Fèvre and Jean-Paul et Benoit Droîn, 2019 is regarded as a very promising year, although heavily influenced by difficult periods during the growing season.

Didier Seguier, from Fèvre, sees it as a vintage ‘marked by a lack of rainfall and the heat’. Anne Moreau, from Domaine Louis Moreau, says ‘2019 is quite classic for Chablis, closer to 2017 than 2018. It has unmistakeable Chablis acidity’.

Barrel maturation

Mention should also be made of wood. Where used, it seems to add to the whole in 2019. The vintage’s concentration and acidity appear to suit maturation in wood, and partial barrel-fermentation, adding extra layers of flavour and structure. I also tasted a village Chablis aged in amphora – an interesting, experimental approach but one which needs more work for me.

When to drink?

In terms of drinking windows, 2019 Chablis will be approachable when young, but has the concentration and acidity to age well, particularly at Premier and Grand Cru level.

Overall

Guillaume Michel says ‘2019 is a great vintage which emphasises the terroir rather than hides it’. Matthieu Mangenot believes ‘Chablis 2019 gave birth to perfectly balanced wines which show great aromatic purity, richness and lots of freshness’.

I agree with their conclusions – this is a vintage which will be very appealing early on, is available in good volume and should be affordable. The wines can be strongly recommended.

The list of top scoring wines is testament to this vintage’s overarching quality.

See Andy Howard’s Top-scoring Chablis 2019 wines

All wines scored 94 points or above.

Chablis 2019: Top Scoring Grand Cru wines A Decanter guide to Chablis Premier Cru Mâconnais magic: Tasting Domaine Thibert’s Vignes Blanches 2010-2017

Chablis 2017 v 2018: 40 wines rated

Georgie Hindle — Mon, 03 Aug 2020 11:57:28 +0000

Both the 2017 and 2018 vintages yielded quality wines in Chablis with one year producing vastly more quantity than the other.

Chablis suffered greatly in 2017 with frost severely depleting the overall yields achievable at harvest time – the second year in a row for the region’s producers. However, the grapes that were picked remained high quality giving the 2017s good balance with clear focus and freshness.

Scroll down to see the top-rated Chablis 2017 and 2018 tasting notes and scores

The 2018 crop was lauded at the time thanks to quality and quantity. It was larger than expected with many estates requesting to use the Volume Complémentaire Individuel (VCI ) to set aside an extra 10hl/ha over the permitted yield and keep as stock to use at a later date when there is a shortfall. Some were even ‘reduced to leaving grapes on the vines or throwing them away’ Tim Atkin reported in his Chablis 2018 En Primeur report.

However, in both years, picking dates were crucial with the best able to showcase signature power and acidity with enough appeal to drink soon as well as the potential to age.

This tasting comprised a majority of 2017s with 15 2018s giving a good impression of their characters and overall drinkability at this stage.

See all the Chablis 2017 and 2018 tasting notes and scores

The top 20 was an almost equal mix of the two vintages with both years showcasing purity of flavour, precision and vitality.

For both vintages, the premier cru sites stood out and mirror Tim Atkin’s En Primeur sentiment that it ‘pays to trade up’. Standout sites include the large 34ha Mont de Milieu, a ‘well-known’ and ‘undoubtedly high quality’ area wrote Andy Howard MW in his guide to Chablis Premier Cru, and Montmains, a ‘warm, generous and open premier cru where individual producer style is influence by the presence of clay’.

Fourchaume, notable for ‘power, concentration and orchard fruit flavours combined with umami and flinty notes’ also showed well in this tasting as did Vacoupin where stony soils tend to ‘impart a much more chiselled, pithy, grapefruit style’ Howard noted.

The top wines displayed an array of flavours with intense and expressive citrus touches to more rounded tropical notes and floral aromas and while some shone with wet-stone laced minerality others offered creamy brioche touches giving depth.

In terms of value the overall price bracket sits between £18 – 35 ($25-$50) – the top five wines available for £33.99/$50, £26/$35, £29.99/$45, £18 / $30 and £18.33 / $30 respectively offering a range of options for Chablis drinkers and collectors.

Many are easily approachable now and pair excellently with everything from pork and risotto to fresh seafood and goats cheese salads but these bottles will also age well and should reward cellaring for 4-10 years.

See the top-rated Chablis 2017 and 2018 tasting notes and scores

Top five Chablis vintages to drink now Chablis spotlight: William Fèvre Burgundy Wine Crossword A Decanter guide to Chablis Premier Cru

Top five Chablis vintages to drink now

Andy Howard MW — Wed, 15 Jul 2020 09:25:10 +0000

Chablis continues to offer a great deal to fans of white Burgundy and the Chardonnay grape. Unlike many top Côte d’Ôr whites, Chablis is widely available.

In terms of value for money, top Premier Cru vineyards sell for less than village wines from appellations such as Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Grand Cru Chablis repeats the trick when compared to Premier Cru wines from the leading Côte de Beaune villages. Chablis is a wine with the potential to age for many years and a style where terroir characters are encouraged to shine, with prominent oak and other winemaking influences taking a back seat.

Scroll down for Andy Howard MW’s pick of Chablis wines from vintages ready to drink now

Largely unencumbered by techniques such as barrel-fermentation, oak ageing and extended lees-ageing, Chablis wines often act as ‘windows’ on the vintage, with the character of the growing season evident in a complex interplay with the characteristics of the climat.

Add on Chablis’ ability to age and this provides an opportunity for fascinating insights in to how wines from certain vineyards, or those produced by particular vignerons, age.

Chablis has a marginal wine-making climate where frost, hail, drought or excessive rain often have a major impact. Some vintages are decidedly ‘cool’ in character, e.g. 2004, 2007, 2008, whereas some show extra ripeness following significant heat – 2006, 2009, 2015.

Other factors can come into play – 2013 was a year with rampant botrytis, whilst 2016 was a vintage where volumes were slashed due to devastating frost and hail. But despite these variations, the wine underneath remains steadfastly ‘Chablis’, making vintage comparisons fascinating.

Consumers are blessed with a number of excellent vintages over the past dozen years. A few vintages have the potential to go down as legendary examples, with 2014 probably leading the way. Apart from the stunning 2014 (where many of the wines still appear embryonic), fine vintages to look out for are 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015 and 2017. These are wines which show classic Chablis characters, and are mostly still available through specialist merchants.

My summary has excluded 2008 – a very fine vintage – as this is less easy to track down. I have also added some comments from some good friends in Chablis – Sébastien Dampt (Domaine Sébastien Dampt), Anne Moreau (Domaine Louis Moreau) and Domaine Long-Depaquit (Bichot), to flesh out my description of the key vintages.

2017

A vintage with many classic Chablis characters. The start of the growing season was very uneven, with a very cold January followed by a warm February and March. As in 2016, frost struck a devastating blow, severely reducing volumes. Summer saw a return to hot, dry, weather leading to an earlier harvest than 2016. Cooler nights resulted in higher acidity, which is combined with highly aromatic wines. Still very youthful, these wines will reward careful ageing.

Bichot: 2017 is a very typical vintage for Chablis with wines that boast chalky notes and saline freshness.

Anne Moreau: A vintage to keep in the cellar for a few years to enjoy it at its best.

Sébastien Dampt: 2017 can be aged a long time and, although the wines are open now, they may then close down.

2015

A low quantity but high-quality vintage. Following a mild winter there were few frost issues, flowering was even and summer was warm and dry. Hail affected 300 ha in some Grand Cru/Montée de Tonnerre but remaining Chablis vineyards were picked in good health. Acidity is lower than some more ‘classic’ years, with the ripe, rich profile giving wines that are very approachable, but perhaps one not for the long-term.

Bichot: The vintage gave rich and full wines, with some freshness which has been preserved despite the very sunny and hot conditions. Minerality is at the background but will undoubtedly develop with time.

Moreau: 2015 shows notes of exotic fruits and ripe fruit, balanced yet by nice minerality and iodine notes – a very pleasant vintage to enjoy right now (Anne Moreau).

Dampt: 2015 is a warm vintage and similar in my view to 2009. And, although the 2009’s are very good to drink now, the 2015’s are in the period where the wines are starting to evolve.

2014

Undoubtedly one of the greatest Chablis vintages, the main issue at the moment is that some of the top wines are currently rather one-dimensional and dominated by high acid, without the development of additional characters. However, at Chablis/Petit Chablis level, these are stunning drinking wines.

A warm winter lead to the risk of April frost. Spring was dry before a very wet July/August with twice the annual rainfall. Prospects were bleak until a dry, windy September, allowed grapes to ripen slowly. Harvesting took place at the end of September/early-October. The resulting wines are taut, with high acidity and refreshing citrus notes and classic ‘stony’ characters.

Bichot: The wines are full of freshness and tension. They show a great balance between purity, minerality and density. Probably one of the most balanced vintages, along with 2012. Built for long ageing.

Moreau: One of the most classic vintages in Chablis! This vintage is to keep for years… Grand Cru are still too young and need time to reach their peak.

Dampt: 2014 is the most classic vintage in Chablis for the last 10 years. Austere young, 2014’s need time but have huge potential for ageing.

2012

Like 2010, this was a year of unsettled conditions at the start of the growing season. Frost, hail, millerandage combined to give low yields. The summer was very dry but beneficial rains in September were followed by fine harvest conditions. A year with very good structure combined with ripe fruit and floral characters. Perhaps not quite as concentrated as 2019 but drinking very well at all levels now. The Grand Cru can certainly be kept for many more years.

Bichot: The typical minerality of Chablis is supported by good acidity, whilst expressing no sharpness. A great vintage.

Moreau: 2012 is a classic Chablis vintage with wines that are particularly expressive.

Dampt: 2012 seems a bit like 2019 – a small harvest, warm conditions during the summer and a good level of acidity. 2012 Chablis are well balanced, and they are drinking well now.

2010

Low yields delivered very concentrated Chablis, with high acidity and some lovely freshness and mineral notes. Unsettled conditions during flowering led to millerandage and although the Spring was warm, Summer was cool with limited sunshine. As often happens in Chablis, a fine September enabled grapes to reach perfect maturity by the end of the month. Storms were still present during the harvest and careful selection was required. However, where producers got it right, great wines have been produced with roundness, acidity, power and longevity.

Bichot: 2010 is a vintage of well-balanced wines with good minerality, freshness and tension.

Moreau: 2010 presented a good balance between acidity (similar to 2005) together with the roundness of 2008. If you still have some Premier Cru and Grand Cru, it’s time to enjoy them.

Dampt: A very concentrated vintage due to the north wind before the harvest, and beautiful weather in August and September. The level of alcohol was high, so it’s powerful and rich. 10 years of aging is a perfect time for this type of wine.

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