Get me a glass of Malbec.’ ‘Add a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to the shopping list.’ ‘I love a good Cabernet.’

Grape varieties have become shorthand for the wines we feel like drinking, sometimes not really giving much thought to their origin or producer.

Sure, the Malbec will be from Argentina. The Sauvignon Blanc? Maybe from Chile – or New Zealand, or the Loire.

The ubiquity of varietal-labelled wines has created an easy way to communicate with consumers. At the same time, however, it has also hindered an engagement with the beautiful, sometimes messy, reality of the vines and people behind them.

This is particularly true in South America, where the development of viticulture is woven into the complex narrative of colonisation.

Single-varietal wines stood for a sense of modernity that seemed to overcome a fractured, contentious past. But things have been rapidly changing in the last decade, as both viticultural and geopolitical heritages are reassessed.

‘South America, and Argentina in particular, followed the Californian [variety-based], rather than the European [origin-based] model, of marketing wines,’ explains 2024 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient Susana Balbo, who, in addition to leading her successful winery, served three terms as president of Wines of Argentina between 2006 and 2016.

‘When we were looking at how to raise our profile in export markets, we did a number of studies and that was the direction that was chosen. In many ways it worked; Argentinian Malbec became a success all over the world. But now we need to overcome that success. We were very comfortable [with the varietal focus] for 20 years, but luckily we’re being forced out of our comfort zone.’

Injecting creativity

Overcoming that success, Balbo and others argue, means engaging with the nuances of terroir and the diversity of grape varieties that make the South American landscape and history both diverse and unique.

Signs of this change in perspective are palpable and have yielded South America’s ‘white wine revolution’ and ‘Criolla revival’. Underpinning these ‘movements’ is a slow but sure shift from single-varietal wines to blends – from prescriptive, technical winemaking to a creative, personal response to terroir.

‘Blends force you to think and speak about wine differently,’ continues Balbo. ‘They inherently tell stories and individual perspectives, rather than “packaged” messages about grape varieties. This is particularly important because we need to champion our heritage – now more than ever.’

Balbo has put this philosophy into practice. As the creator of South America’s first fine white blend based on the Criolla variety Torrontés (her Signature White Blend), she tapped into and, in a way, catalysed many of the ongoing changes.

Blends also bring to the forefront the incredible wealth of old vineyards that South America is home to, and the diverse genetic material that they contain.

Sisters Laura and Adrianna Catena have been fierce advocates for this stock of massal selections (vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing vine stocks), which they argue calls into question the notions of Old versus New World that structure orthodox wine discourses.

‘People often think of Europe as the classical source of old grapes, and therefore fine wine,’ says Laura Catena.

‘Without knowing that in fact most of Europe’s vineyards are mono-clonal, relatively new plantings. Meanwhile, in South America we have these incredible, truly old and in many cases ungrafted, massal selections.’

The sisters argue that not only does this bring a different kind of complexity to the wines, but it also lends them a symbolic value that goes well beyond what’s in the glass.

They echo Balbo’s view that heterogeneity forces a different way of talking and engaging with wine, focused on narrative rather than labels.

From California to Bordeaux

In counterpoint to the varietal focus that informed export-growth strategies, as South America’s producers began to toy with the idea of fine wine during the 1990s, Bordeaux was undoubtedly the role model.

Star consultants such as the late Michel Rolland, Paul Hobbs and Alberto Antonini were brought in to produce Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends in Chile and Argentina, only to be surprised by the allure of extreme terroirs that yielded particular expressions of the classical varieties.

If some (Rolland, for example) remained faithful to a signature framework, most winemakers were taken in by the idiosyncrasies of the South American landscapes, laying the groundwork for truly South American classics such as Seña and Nicolás Catena Zapata.

The emergence of a new generation of extremely talented and globally well-travelled local winemakers only helped these wines to evolve into a character of their own, rather than being derivative, Bordeaux-informed iterations.

This also meant, almost inevitably, that Cabernet’s protagonism began to be questioned, not least because varieties such as Tannat and Carmenère found such a strong – and arguably more alluring and nuanced – character away from French climes.

Again, their interpretation has changed significantly over the past few years, increasingly attuned to place and to the synergetic potential of blending.

Santiago Deicas, third generation at the helm of his family' eponymous Uruguayan winery, explains the evolution through two Tannat-based blends produced by Deicas.

‘Preludio [Gran Vino de Corte] was born from my father’s urge to produce a fine, classical, Bordeaux-inspired blend,’ he says.

‘With [Extreme Vineyards] Subsuelo Corte Unico, I really want to convey the essence of our vineyards.’

Reclaiming Malbec

The way in which Deicas discusses his wines is symptomatic of the overall change of mindset to which Balbo alluded.

‘Blends change the tone of the conversation,’ Balbo says. ‘They evoke an identity and individual expression. They challenge [the consumer], while creating possibilities and more intrigue. There’s no script. If you can’t talk about the Malbec or the Tannat or the Chardonnay, you’re forced to talk about your feelings and perception.’

This is true for consumers as much as for producers, whose terroir and blending explorations have actually allowed for a better understanding of each variety – not least the mighty, and so often misunderstood, Malbec, which is in many ways being rediscovered through the lenses of terroir on the one hand and stylistic plasticity on the other.

The latter has seen producers experiment with fermentation vessels, ageing regimes and maceration times, focusing less on extraction and power, and instead seeking more purity, focus and drinkability.

In the pursuit of balance, the genetic diversity of old massal selections has proven an invaluable asset, ultimately highlighting the potential of blending – either in the vineyard or in the cellar.

This is arguably allowing for Malbec to be reclaimed as a variety rather than a ‘brand’.

Singular identities

‘The history of South American wine is a history of blends,’ says Jimena López, head winemaker at Bodega Andeluna, Mendoza.

‘It’s the story of settlers and of the different grapes they brought with them.’

It’s also the history of serendipitous crossings, new varieties and pioneering experimentation – creativity led by necessity and opportunity.

Among the most dramatic contributions to the reappreciation of old vineyards and overlooked terroirs has been the revival of Criolla varieties.

This family of grapes encompasses both those initially brought by Spanish settlers (of which País/ Listán Negro/ Criolla Chica and different Moscatels are perhaps the most important) and the different crossings that have originated in South American soil.

Among the latter are Criolla Grande and Torrontés, two very different crossings of País and Moscatel of Alejandría.

Known as ‘the queen of Torrontés’, Balbo has long championed the variety – which is the main component in her Signature White Blend.

‘Finally, we’re seeing these varieties for what they truly are and for all the beautiful wines they can make,’ she says.

She’s currently planting Torrontés on high-elevation sites in the heart of Gualtallary – mirroring what’s being done with Malbec in response to climate change – determined to give it equal, noble standing in the most privileged terroirs.

Playing the field

Across Argentina and Chile, producers are also tapping into old field blends. Once seen as a source of lesser-quality, natural-leaning wines, they are now considered a treasure trove in which nuance and complexity are effortlessly achieved while at the same time facilitating conversations about history, heritage and identity.

As is often the case in South America, contradiction lies at the heart of the ongoing vinous transformation.

It’s both puzzling and fascinating that to truly reclaim its viticultural identity, the continent is having to look back at its colonial past and acknowledge how, in trying to distance itself from it, it promoted a different kind of conquest (the California- and Bordeaux-inspired models) that at the same time built and eroded the continent’s modern viticultural history.

Above all, however, Balbo says that these changes of focus should make wine more fun, for consumers and producers alike.

‘Blending is the art of true expression and creativity in oenology,’ she says. ‘There’s such pleasure in the [blending] exercise.’

Meanwhile, the resulting wines are more dynamic, living entities in which different players playfully fight for centre stage.

‘As the wine evolves – in the glass and in the bottle – different elements and varieties reveal themselves. You never get bored and are often surprised.’

Untangling history

South America is, in its very essence, a continent of mixtures and unexpected encounters, of radically different traditions meeting, clashing and eventually yielding something new, unexpected and at the same time ancestral.

It is, and always has been, a place of intense, at times chaotic but always fascinating, creative energy, catalysed by extreme landscapes and ardent feelings. Its viticultural heritage is no different.

Each of the blends featured here untangles a bit of winemaking history. Meanwhile, Balbo is already working on a new white blend.

‘White blends are the next step of this revolution,’ she says. But which of the many revolutions is she referring to?

Maybe they’re all part of a single quest: claiming the beautiful, creole soul of South America’s fine wines.

South American blends

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For many, ‘light South American reds’ will sound like an oxymoron. The continent is mostly associated with – and celebrated for – assertive reds with muscular tannins, plush fruit and considerable ageing potential.

And yet, the evolution and diversity of wines produced from red-skinned grapes across South America makes the case for looking beyond the lauded expressions of Malbec, Carmenère, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon.

While these have consolidated South America as a source of some of the world’s most exciting wines, the real excitement is perhaps elsewhere, in the rediscovery of grapes and terroirs that produce lighter shades of red.

Spoiled for choice

Tasting wines for this piece was an embarrassment of riches. We could easily have featured twice as many examples of equal quality and character.

To frame this selection I first had to answer the question my friend Nacho Campos (former sommelier extraordinaire now working for UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene) asked when I told him I was writing this piece: ‘But how light is a light red?’

The pursuit of levity, detail, purity and elegance – at the service of varietal and terroir expression – is now a major preoccupation among South American winemakers, reflected across their ranges, not least the Malbecs, Tannats and Cabernet Sauvignons.

But that would be another (interesting!) feature entirely.

Here we focus on truly light-bodied reds, not just a technical premise but also as an opportunity to emphasise the changing landscape (pun intended) of South American red wine production and its wider palette of red varieties.

Producers are rediscovering old vineyards and exploring their vines, engaging with the complex yet fascinating history of their countries and decolonising wine discourse – rightfully placing the local farming traditions of yore alongside the European-informed canon.

Refreshing complexity

Engaging with history in all its beautiful if troubled complexity has expanded South American producers’ wine lexicon and geographical reach – often to surprising extremes.

Featured here are wines from regions that range from the Atacama desert, in northern Chile, to the southern extremes of Patagonia by way of secluded corners of Mendoza (Lalande), San Juan (Calingasta) and the oceankissed Atlántida (Canelones, Uruguay).

Some of these wines do indeed have an aura of mysticism to them – evocative of a time lost and unburied.

This exploration of secluded terroirs goes hand in hand with the ongoing reappreciation of Criolla varieties (on whose revival Amanda Barnes MW reported for our September 2025 issue) and old vineyards bearing early plantings of European grapes that have since fallen into disfavour.

Did you know that there are centenary Cinsault vineyards growing on granite in Itata Valley?

Or that Garnacha can produce ethereal iterations of Mendoza?

That a spontaneous crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Listán Prieto resulted in a variety called Moscatel Tinto?

Or that Bastardo/Trousseau has a long history in Argentine Patagonia? Now you do.

Fridge door-ready

How does this all translate into drinking pleasure? Very well indeed.

History and technicalities notwithstanding, the lighter reds of South America are straightforwardly fun and interesting – a perfect reflection of the winemaking community and ebullient wine scene of which they’re a product.

If you want proof of the continent’s technical evolution, spectacular creativity, inspiring confidence – and historical reckoning – look no further, one refreshing sip at a time.

Make space in the fridge!

18 judiciously crafted South American reds:

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Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Eugenio Egorov and Roger Jones tasted 112 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 64 Highly recommended

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting scores

112 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 64

Recommended 37

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, minimum 85% Cabernet Franc wines from single, designated vineyard sites anywhere in the southern hemisphere

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting

Expectations exceeded

There’s so much history associated with Cabernet Franc. The monks at Bourgueil abbey in the Loire valley began cultivating the grape in the 11th century. By the 18th century, it was renowned for producing exceptional wines in Bordeaux.

Fast forward to today and, following our tasting of 112 examples from the southern hemisphere, Eugenio Egorov could hardly contain his enthusiasm: ‘This tasting was a revelation; there were so many great wines.’

The statistics support his excitement. Ten wines were rated Outstanding and 64 wines Highly recommended – an impressive performance, especially for a variety that historically often played a supporting role in blends.

Roger Jones concurred: ‘In the past, Cabernet Franc was herbaceous, rustic and challenging. However, this new wave of styles from the southern hemisphere is exciting.’

Latin American renaissance

As illustrated by the number of submissions, South America has enthusiastically embraced the variety, with Argentina leading the way. In a country dominated by and best known for Malbec, Cabernet Franc is increasingly prized for its perfume, harmony and freshness.

‘Producers should follow the lead of those in New Zealand and South Africa, who travel frequently in search of knowledge,’ said Jones.

The results for the latter underline his point: of 13 entries, four were rated Outstanding and seven Highly recommended.

Cabernet Franc’s journey across the southern hemisphere has revealed its adaptability in the vineyard, versatility in the cellar and ability to make delicious, refreshing wines with complex, distinctive aromatic profiles.

The results of this tasting reveal that there has never been a better time to explore Cabernet Franc, a variety with a strong heritage and so much to offer.

What to eat with southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, by Fiona Beckett

When it comes to southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, it’s best to put out of your mind the idea that it’s a variety that produces light, crunchy, herbaceous reds.

Examples from countries such as South Africa and Argentina are far more typically full-bodied, Bordeaux-style wines to drink with classic red meat dishes – from grilled butterflied lamb to beef or venison Wellington. (The latter not least because mushrooms are a good match with it, particularly with older vintages.) They should also be able to handle a touch of spice, even a lamb curry.

Drink them when you’ve bought a beautiful piece of beef, save it for friends who enjoy a generous red, treat the family to a bottle when you’re cooking a classic Sunday roast or a homemade steak or ox cheek pie – the joy of these Cab Francs is just how enjoyable they are, and how affordable.

With their ripe fruit and supple tannins, they’re also good wines to bring out with a cheeseboard, even taking washed rind cheeses and blue cheeses in their stride. They’re definitely food-friendly.

See all notes and scores from the southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc tasting

The judges

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, educator and consultant working around the world. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors, qualifying in 2008 as the first Master of Wine from Brazil

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Originating in Bordeaux’s Médoc, Carmenère didn’t exactly move to Chile to seek its fortune, but a ‘happy accident’ led to the rise of the country’s flagship red grape.

Thought of, to a certain extent as a difficult variety – slow ripening and prone to disease – it was more or less abandoned in Bordeaux after phylloxera ravaged Europe’s vineyards in the late nineteenth century.

Fast forward to Chile in 1994 when a variety that had been largely forgotten re-emerged by chance rather than design. Vines previously believed to be Merlot were identified as Carmenère, thought to have been brought over unintentionally from France.

The realisation initially caused concern for the country’s winemaking reputation, but as producers learned how to extract the best from the grape, it became a celebrated point of difference.

The offspring of Cabernet Franc, Carmenère shares similarities with its half-siblings Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Good examples express the soft, fruit-driven elegance of the former with the herbaceous and cedar-spice notes of the latter.

It typically produces full-bodied wines with high tannins and red and black fruit characteristics and works well as a blending component (it’s often thrown into the mix with its relatives).

Outside of Chile Carmenère is grown in other parts of South America, China (where it is known as Cabernet Gernischt), Italy and by a few Bordeaux estates.

When it comes to pairing food with Carmenère, there are plenty of great options. Roasted or barbecued meats make a great match, as do tomato-based and spicy dishes.

Decanter’s Tastings Manager Javier Soto-Miranda, who comes from Santiago, also highlights the suitability of pairing Carmenère with traditional dishes: ‘I do love drinking a glass of Carmenère during Las Fiestas Patrias (the Chilean festival celebrated on 18 September) with a nice Chilean empanada or pastel de choclo (a kind of corn pie).’

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Chile’s rich diversity of quality red wine styles was on full display at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025, with a host of top medals for producers in many regions – including two highly coveted Best in Show accolades.

A deep-rooted vineyard heritage and wide variety of terroirs and microclimates in this long, narrow country, which nestles between the Pacific ocean and the Andes mountains, have provided the perfect foundation for a new generation of talented winemakers to flourish on the international stage.

Efforts to preserve and revitalise old-vine plantings in historic grape-growing regions can be seen in superbly balanced, earthy and juicy reds from varieties including Cinsault, País and Carignan. Carmenère, too, has thrived in Chile during a renaissance for the variety that began in the 1990s.

Scroll down to discover 14 top-scoring wines from Chile

Yet, modern Chilean reds also range from aromatic and fresh Pinot Noir in the cooler climate of Casablanca Valley to elegant Cabernet Sauvignon wines, not to mention exciting projects on the fringes of the Atacama desert in the north.

Such variety means wine lovers are spoilt for choice, but DWWA’s rigorous judging process offers a path to explore this vibrant landscape with confidence. Discover delicious, medal-winning Chilean reds on these pages, and find a perfect bottle for the dinner table.

Explore the full results from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Antiyal, Viñedo Escorial Carmenère, Maipo 2020

97 Best in Show

US$56-$80 AOC Selections, Pogo’s, Royal Wine Merchants

Carmenère is stepping back into the limelight after a century or more of eclipse. This Maipo example has been entirely concrete aged. You’ll

find lifted cherry-plum fruits on the nose, while the palate is deep and serious, and the tannins are there as much to provide flavour as texture. The fruits, too, step back from their primary aromatic focus and seem to grow a little deeper and sterner in the mouth. There are fresher notes, too, though the green tones that have dogged the variety in the past are almost completely absent here. This balanced, classically framed varietal red wine is ready to enjoy now, ideally with food. Alcohol 14.5%

Miguel Torres, La Causa del Itata Cinsault-País-Carignan, Secano Interior, Itata 2022

97 Best in Show

POA £ John E Fells

This is a blend of the traditional (though formerly despised) varieties grown in Chile’s historic regions: Cinsault and Carignan with País. Don’t expect a deeply coloured, black-purple wine: this is a light garnet red. The aromas are warm, earthy, rustic, with an apple-berry perfume behind the dry grass and brush; the flavours are bright, clean, open-pored yet with a sinewy finish that brings vivid yet broad acidity into partnership with firm, resolute tannins. It’s not hard to imagine that this was the way the best red wines tasted in previous centuries in Chile – quenching, satisfying wine for those who’ve worked physically hard all day. Which is to say that it needs, and will reward, informal

food partnerships. Alc 13.5%

Aconcagua

Errazuriz, Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

95 Value Gold

£12 Tesco, Waitrose

Ripe cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate and a lick of eucalyptus permeate the lively nose and palate, which has graphite tannins and a gorgeous black olive finish. Alc 13.5%

Atacama

JP Martin, De Cal Garnacha, Huasco Valley 2022

95 Gold

jpmartin.cl

Eccentric, complex and multidimensional, exuding red berry and smoked spice aromas, along with a bright, saline undertone. Velvety and fine-grained with a zingy, crisp acidity. Alc 12.5%

Cachapoal

San Pedro, Altair 2022

96 Gold

sanpedro.cl

Black cherries and plums complemented by a bright leafiness and an attractive spicy element. Structured and firm, with fine-grained tannins and youthful acidity. Alc 14%

Casablanca Valley

Terranoble, Algarrobo Pinot Noir 2024

96 Gold

terranoble.cl

Charming red plums, sour cherries and decadent florals billow over nose and palate. Crunchy cranberry acidity, silky tannins and a delightful seaweed tang. Alc 12.5%

Colchagua

Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Escudo Rojo Origine Carmenère 2024

97 Platinum

bpdr.com

Delightful plum, cherry and blackberry fruits pave the way to a chocolate richness, layered with tobacco and cigar box oak. Crunchy fruit on the palate with supple tannins and a lift of eucalyptus to finish. Alc 14%

Montes, Purple Angel Carmenère-Petit Verdot 2021

95 Gold

£78.99 Hedonism, North & South

Classy and hedonistic, with captivating aromas of ripe cherries, plums, chocolate and cassis liqueur, all bolstered by a superb oak frame and cigar box tannins. Alc 14.5%

Viña Casa Solís, La Piqueta Reserva Syrah 2024

95 Value Gold

POA £ Press Wine Services

Juicy blue plums and keen floral notes with a charge of peppery spice that envelopes the lovely, approachable structure and lively tannins. Filled with potential and excitement. Alc 13.5%

Maipo

Undurraga, Altazor, Pirque 2021

95 Gold

£63 Hallgarten Wines

Welcoming red berries and florals, bright acidity and fine, graphite tannins, along with an enigmatic, savoury umami character bubbling under the surface. Alc 14.3%

Maule

Miguel Torres, Los Inquietos 02 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

97 Platinum

£50 John E Fells

Abundant fruits of cherry, plum and blackberry with notes of eucalyptus. The polished, elegant structure, silky smooth tannins and pervading acidity reveal the potential of this effortlessly stylish Cabernet, while also emphasising the quality coming from the Maule region. Alc 14.5%

Longaví, Glup País 2023

96 Gold

longaviwines.cl

Enchanting spicy red fruits and lifted florals. A vibrant smoky tension cuts across the bracing acidity and judicious tannins. Great regional typicity. Alc 12.5%

Bouchon, Vigno Carignan 2022

95 Gold

£19 Molson Coors

Red cherries, raspberries and strawberries waft across the nose and infiltrate the energetic palate, which has milk chocolate tannins and a lovely floral grip to end. Compelling. Alc 14%

San Antonio

Cono Sur, Ocio Pinot Noir 2022

96 Gold

POA £ Villeneuve Wines

Alive with red cherry fruit and vibrant florals, delicate herbs lapping at the edges. Firm and serious on the palate with beautifully balanced pencil shaving tannins. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2025 award-winning wines

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Amanda Barnes MW, Florencia Gomez and Benjamin Gubbins tasted 150 wines, with 17 Outstanding and 99 Highly recommended

South American premium white: Panel tasting scores

150 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 17

Highly recommended 99

Recommended 31

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were requested to submit their dry white wines from any South American country and region, including all Geographical Indications, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$20. Skin-fermented wines from white varieties were also welcome.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our South American premium white panel tasting

While South America is still best known for its reds, this tasting proved just how exceptional the continent’s white wines have become.

What made the tasting so exciting was its wide scope, highlighting the remarkable diversity of styles, varieties and terroirs shaping the continent’s white wine scene.

Of the 17 Outstanding wines, seven were Chardonnay, reflecting growing refinement in the variety. As Flor Gomez noted, the best examples were ‘modern, without ever lapsing into excess’.

Another standout category was Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, which scooped several top scores. ‘They were a real revelation,’ said Benjamin Gubbins, ‘with outstanding quality and character.’

White blends with Rhône and Criolla varieties also shone, as did several Uruguayan Albariños, which Gomez described as ‘full of varietal precision and charm, deserving of a spot on any serious seafood restaurant’s list’.

Beyond the varietal and regional spread, the tasting reflected impressive creativity in the cellar. More than a dozen of the wines showed some flor influence (biological ageing under a surface layer of yeasts), lending a saline edge and linear drive – a quality I think particularly benefits these sunny climates.

Others embraced long ageing in oak foudres or clay amphora. ‘It was a dynamic, wildly enjoyable flight that showed technical mastery and adventurous spirit,’ added Gomez.

Gubbins agreed, noting the relative absence of duds: ‘My overall impression was one of consistent quality and refinement – and no shortage of creativity!’

We were delighted by the combination of classics and wines with individuality and flair. There was not only breathtaking diversity, but also remarkable value for money.

As the high scores reflect, South America’s premium whites are definitely worth getting excited about.

What to eat with South American white wines, by Fiona Beckett

So many different styles of wine scored highly in this tasting that it’s impossible to suggest matches for them all, so let’s take a look at some of the less common ones.

Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon blends, for instance, might well be the ones to turn to with Peruvian-inspired cooking, which often blends Japanese and other Asian influences with local seafood and other indigenous ingredients.

Scallops would be a particularly good pairing. Albariño is also a reliable go-to with seafood (try it with moqueca, Brazil’s iconic seafood stew), while aromatic Torrontés comes in useful with ceviche (better, typically, than with citrussy whites such as Sauvignon, which can clash with the citrus in the marinade).

Wines that exhibit some flor influence generally develop an umami character that works well with Japanese food, while amphora-aged and other skin-contact wines could well be ones to sip with empanadas.

There’s so much creativity in these wines, you can afford to be experimental with the pairings.

See notes and scores for more high-scoring wines from our South American premium white tasting

South American premium white panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes MW is a wine writer, presenter and consultant. Author of the awarded South America Wine Guide (£35 southamericawineguide.com), she is a regular Decanter contributor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile

Florencia Gomez is the founder of London-based wine brand marketing agency Grand Crew Studio. A qualified and internationally experienced winemaker, she is also a DWWA judge across South American categories

Benjamin Gubbins is general manager at Vagabond Wines and heads its WSET education programmes in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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Nothing marks the end of summer like the school’s re-opening and the start of the annual September releases campaign.

This is the second tranche of international releases, or ‘Hors Bordeaux’, following the 50+ wines launched by négociants in March.

SCORE TABLE: All the Place de Bordeaux September releasesScroll down for Georgie’s ‘ultimate autumn case’

It’s no secret that the fine wine market is struggling at the moment, amid a backdrop of lingering US tariffs, a subdued Chinese market, and broader economic headwinds.

However, the 2025 campaign underscores the resilience, perseverance and prestige of La Place delivering a crafted – and increased – number of fine wines from around the world.

The autumn releases also present a joyous and fascinating moment to check in on both new and old vintages from some of the world’s most iconic and reputable estates. And this year’s cohort is a bounty of beautiful wines waiting to be explored.

The campaign, that technically kicked off on 28 August with Domaine de Baronarques, will run through to the end of September (with some extensions into October) and features more than 130 wines from 12 countries including: Italy, Spain, the US, Germany, Chile, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Hungary, South Africa and France.

The calendar of releases takes on a clearer structure than in previous years with the coming days seeing the release of starry names like Opus One (1 September), Masseto today (2 September), Almaviva (3 September), Solaia (4 September), and Penfolds Grange (8 September), alongside Bordeaux gems such as the historic re-releases from Latour (2012) and Palmer (2015).

The releases will be split by region giving each country the limelight – Australia, Spain, Italy, US, France then South America – with a dedicated Riesling week in October like last year.

New and exciting wines

Akin to last year’s flurry of German Rieslings entering La Place, this year is the first time wines from the Loire Valley will be included alongside other French bottlings. It’s an exciting development that seeks to not only present the best of France all in one accessible place but also offer more white wines satisfying current market trends and demand.

The number of wines due to be released may also give way to a potential dedicated ‘Loire week’ within the campaign.

Jean-Quentin Prats, CEO of Joanne Rare Wines which manages more than 100 ‘Hors Bordeaux’ wines, captures this strategy: ‘We want to focus on establishing what we already have however if there was one area we could increase, it was white.’

Indeed there are five new white wines on offer this autumn. ‘[There is an] increase in French whites, and one area is the Loire Valley where you have very high-quality products, old vines on amazing soils and great know-how. And there is a demand in the market for that,’ Prats added.

Alongside the Loire wines including; Domaine Delaporte (three cuvées from Sancerre), Domaine Sébastian Brunet (old-vine Chenin in Vouvray) and Luneau-Papin (biodynamic wine from Muscadet), are new wines from Adega Algueira (Cornamuse Godello from Ribeira Sacra), a sublime Chardonnay from Zuccardi (Gualtallary), the excellent House of Arras Late Disgorged Grand Vintage 2008 (Tasmania), an 18-year-old Riesling from Jim Barry (Clare Valley) and a red and white from Sonoma’s Flowers Winery.

Despite global challenges – declining wine consumption, tariff-driven price hikes, and shifting demand – La Place remains a dynamic stage for producers’ unwavering commitment to excellence and the increase in wines showcases that.

This campaign is a heartening reminder of the resilience of wineries and merchants striving to spotlight world-class wines (at a mixture of price points), in a turbulent market.

My highlights

Australia

There are several superlative wines in the mix this year starting with the 100-point Cloudburst Chardonnay from the 2023 vintage. It was tasted at the end of a 10-year-vertical, which will be coming to Decanter Premium this month, and showcases the very best of what owner and winemaker Will Berliner can achieve with his vineyard-come-garden. A sublime wine.

More white Australia gems come in the form of aged Tasmania sparkling House of Arras 2008 which was utterly delightful, Giaconda’s Chardonnay is another knockout by winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner and Jim Barry’s Florita Riesling 2015 is well worth seeking out.

For the reds, Penfolds Grange is absolutely top class as is Jim Barry’s The Armagh – exceptionally captivating and great quality.

Argentina

I completely fell in love with Sebastian Zuccardi’s Finca Canal Uco stopping just short of 100-points. It’s an amazingly fresh and focussed Malbec from high-altitude vineyards in Paraje Altamira. I’ve met Sebastian a few times in Bordeaux to taste through his ever-expanding range of wines and I adore his approach and sensitivity to the cuvées he creates.

The accolades continue for Argentina with a brilliant Cheval des Andes and fabulous Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard.

Austria

How lucky we are that Gerhard Kracher’s wines are now on the Place de Bordeaux. It’s a little tricky keeping up with the dozen or so Trockenbeerenauslese cuvées he produces (among lots of others) each year of which a selection are chosen to present to La Place.

This year there are five wines – numbered in order of sweetness – the denser a wine, the higher the number. If you haven’t tried these wines before don’t hesitate. They’re all excellent with numbers two, three and five standouts among the impressive range.

Chile

Ever since I visited Chile – and all of the La Place producers bar Vik in 2022 – I’ve been captivated by what’s being produced there.

Seeing the magnificent vineyard vistas and getting to know the viticulture and terroir helped me understand the efforts that are going on in the country to create world-class wines.

Seña this year is absolutely incredible – a must-buy if you can, but Almaviva and Santa Rita are also excellent. I also love the work Sebastian Labbé is doing at Viña Santa Rita wtih Casa Real. Such attention to detail is showcased in the wines.

France

The French contingent is strong and varied this year with everything from Champagne to Burgundy to Bordeaux as well as the Loire Valley providing plenty of enjoyment and value – particularly for two first timers.

Cuvée Eugenie, the Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Lebrun delights with richness and juiciness while the benchmark producer Domaine Luneau-Papin, with ninth generation Pierre-Marie and daughter-in-law Marie at the helm, have produced a lovely and very drinkable biodynamic Gula Ana 2023 for its first outing on La Place.

There are eight Champagnes being released this month spanning six different vintages giving fizz lovers plenty to get stuck into.

My personal favourite was Philipponnat’s mature Clos des Goisses 2000 which is in its peak drinking window, but Leclerc Briant’s organic Château d’Avize 2015 is also captivating, with amazing acidity.

Clos Lanson’s 2011 is accessible and easy to drink and sits well within the list of back vintages, all tasted together in July (2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007 and 2006). The vertical will be written up in a dedicated article on Decanter Premium later this month.

In Bordeaux, the new vintage of Château Cheval Blanc’s Le Petit Cheval Blanc is as good as it’s ever produced – even more evident after tasting back vintages to 2018 – another tasting that will appear on Decanter this month.

Always anticipated, Château d’Yquem’s off-dry ‘Y’ 2023 is stunning as is Château Rieussec’s 2023 vintage. Bordeaux’s sweet wines might not always get the limelight – and these are just two of the varied options coming from the lauded appellation – but it’s a great reminder of the enjoyment that these wines can bring whether you drink them young or old.

I tasted a 1975 – 50-year-old Rieussec at the estate last week and it was utterly delicious.

I have yet to taste Château Palmer’s 10-year-on release or Château Latour’s 2012.

Château d’Aussieres, the Languedoc estate from Lafite Rothschild, is packed full of flavour but silky and smooth with lots to like. Great drinkability and value.

Germany

I missed Germany entry onto La Place last year as I had just given birth, but there are some stunning wines that deserve greater visibility and appreciation.

Sweet, or even off-dry, wines don’t always have the best reputation, and can often be a hard sell ,but there’s something magical when sweetness and richness meet racy acidity, energy and vibrancy like several do in the list.

Heavyweights Ernst Loosen, Schloss Johannisberg, Steinmetz and Domäne Serrig are all represented this autumn.

I loved Ernie’s Riesling Auslese and Domäne Serrig’s Grosse Lage – both excellent quality and with interesting, historical stories behind them. Seek them out.

Italy

Most of the Italian wines were tasted by both myself and Decanter’s Italy editor James Button who came to Bordeaux for the tasting.

Standouts come in the form of Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta and Colore, both brilliant and worth getting hold of.

Antinori’s Solaia and Masseto’s grand vin deliver once again, both with 98 points and one of my favourite wines ever Allegrini’s Fieramonte is un-put-down-able.

I also tasted the new trio of impressive Caiarossa wines which offer great value as well as a mini-vertical of Gianni Mazzei’s Concerto which was extremely impressive. The new vintage doesn’t quite reach the heights of last year but there’s a wonderful signature to this wine with extreme drinkability.

Spain

Telmo Rodriguez’s Yjar (Rioja) and Matallana from Ribera del Duero are both worth trying to get hold of, as is the new complex and enjoyable wine from Adega Algueira – Cornamuse from Ribeira Sacra.

Despite the challengingly hot conditions, CVNE has produced a concentrated but balanced and finessed Real de Asúa Carromaza 2022.

USA

North American wines make up the bulk of the releases, many from the hot and dry 2022 vintage of which several were covered by Jonathan Cristaldi in his Napa Valley vintage 2022 report.

Highlights for me include the ever-brilliant Dalla Valle Vineyards Maya 2022 and an exceptional Quintessa 2022.

I also loved Luc Morlet’s slightly older 2018 vintage of Coeur de Vallée Cabernet Sauvignon and all three Verité wines from Sonoma.

The final La Place vertical to accompany this report will come in the form of 10 vintages of Inglenook’s Rubicon. I was lucky enough to attend a masterclass with winemaker Philippe Bascaules in July where we tasted vintages back to 2013.

This wine is really hitting its stride with a wonderful energetic quality to the wine despite the tough conditions.

Where value and interest lie

In a market favouring affordability, look to under £40 releases from Spain (Dolio) and southern Italy for everyday luxury as well as some of the German Rieslings which have incredible quality to price ratios. The wines from the Loire and Languedoc also provide excellent value.

Given the nature and prestige of some of these wines, prices can be on the very high side with the most expensive likely to top US$400-500. That said, if money were no object these would be my top 12 picks.

Which wines should you buy? My ultimate case of 12:

Ordered by style and score; sparkling, white, red, sweet.

House of Arras E.J. Carr 2008 (97-points): Vibrant Tasmanian fizz.

Philipponnat, Clos de Goisses LV Extra Brut 2000 (98-points): Mature and mouthwatering.

Cloudburst, Chardonnay 2023 (100-points): Sublime, vibrant, and complex.

Château d’Yquem, Ygrek 2023 (96-points): Fresh, succulent and moreish

Bibi Graetz, Colore 2023 (99-points): Nuanced and spectacular.

Jim Barry, The Armagh Shiraz 2022 (99-points): Bottled happiness.

Seña 2023 (99-points): Incredible Bordeaux-style blend.

Quintessa 2022 (99-points): Classy and energetic.

Zuccardi, Finca Canal Uco 2022 (99-points): Fresh, focused Malbec.

Dalla Valle Vineyards, Maya 2022 (98-points): Seductive and bold.

Kracher, Nummer 3 TBA 2022 (98-points): Exotic and zingy.

Dr Loosen, Riesling Auslese 2019 (98-points): Dense yet invigorating.

History of the releases

Beginning as a niche extension to Bordeaux’s en primeur system, the twice yearly ‘Hors Bordeaux’ releases have grown into a global fine wine powerhouse providing international producers access to premium markets via the region’s efficient distribution network.

Collectors can secure allocations at ex-cellar prices, often with ageing potential that drives secondary market value. These releases, many of which are actually back vintages, will test the market sentiment post a lacklustre Bordeaux 2024 en primeur campaign that failed to ignite serious enthusiasm despite some heavy discounts on 2023 release prices.

Generally a good indicator of enthusiasm is the appeal for Opus on the 1st of the month, this year releasing at a recommended UK onward selling price of £235 (8% down on the 2021 / 6% down on the 2019 according to Wine Lister.

It comes to the market below all recent back vintages. The consulting, data and analytics company said: ‘As one of September’s perennial best sellers, if any release has a chance of seeing demand in this difficult market, it’s Opus One.’

One courtier noted: ‘Everyone is waiting to see what the release prices for Opus and Almaviva will be – if they’re good for the market and people buy it will create a dynamic demand’.

It’s not just about price however, similar to the Bordeaux 2024s. There will be brands who have to decrease and some who will hold firm from strategy or lack of increase over the years. Let’s hope there’s some rebounding for this collection of wines.

Yet to be tasted

• Pym Rae, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2021
• Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, 2022
• Quintessa, Illumination, Sonoma County, 2024
• Flowers, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2023
• Château Palmer, Margaux 3éme Grand Cru Classe, 2015
• Château Latour, 1er Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 2012

Additional tasting notes for this report were done by Tina Gellie, James Button, Ines Salpico, Jonathan Cristaldi. In some instances there may be two tasting notes.

SCORE TABLE: All the Place de Bordeaux September releases:

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

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Vertical tastings are often a self-indulgent exercise through which producers try to assert the superiority, longevity and consistent quality of their wines.

However, sometimes an invitation to taste all produced vintages of a given label comes with the enticing challenging of revisiting its evolution, consider the missteps and give feedback on the direction and goals of the current winemaking team.

The latter was the case when the San Pedro team traveled from Chile to London for a tasting of all but one of the vintages of Altair so far released. A brave proposition, that showed the evolution of the wine, with the many questions, hesitations and changes of priorities along the way.

To a large extent, Altair’s journey mirrors that of Chilean fine wine as a whole: from a fascination with classical foreign paradigms to the recognition of a potential for difference and local identity – all backed by robust technical ability.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for all released vintages of Altair

From French love affair…

Altair started as a partnership between Cachapoal Valley’s Viña San Pedro and St-Émilion’s Château Dassault, with Pascal Chatonnet as consultant and Ana María Cumsille as on-site winemaker. The joint venture planted 70 hectares of Bordeaux varieties, as well as Syrah and Carménère, at the foot of the Andes hoping to craft a premium blend to complement both of the estate’s ranges.

Until then, San Pedro had focused on more marketable brands – not least the popular Gato Negro label – with all production based at the historical winery in Molina. It was there, in the heart of the Central Valley, that the company, founded in 1865 and now part of the prominent VSPT Wine Group, had had its sole home for the previous 150 years.

The joint venture, and the new plantings, crystallised the aim to expand and focus on premiumisation.

Since 2002, Viña San Pedro has had a dedicated facility for the production of its fine wine range – which, in addition to Altair, includes the Cabo de Hornos, Kankana de Elqui, Sideral and Tierras Moradas labels.

The first wines produced at the Cachapoal Andes winery hail from the 2003 vintage, which explains the decision not to include the first vintage of Altair (2002) in the vertical overview. The Altair brand has been fully owned by San Pedro since 2007, when Château Dassault abandoned the partnership, though with Chatonnet and Cumsille retained on the winemaking team.

… to Chilean self-awareness

Brand ownership and winemaking lineage are important to understand the evolution of Altair and were reflected in the proposed – and helpful – grouping of vintages that structured the tasting: ‘classical beginnings’, from 2002 to 2006; ‘forging identity’ (2007-2011); after skipping a vintage due to unfavourable growing conditions, the period between 2013 and 2017 was defined as one of ‘deepening the roots’; 2018 marked the beginning of the ‘evolution toward purity’ while the latest release (2021) was the dawn of a ‘consolidation era’.

This first stage is clearly informed by a Bordelais stylistic framework and Pascal Chatonnet’s background. The prolific consultant – who counts names such as Vega Sicilia, Château Cos d’Estournel, Château d’Issan and Numanthia as both current and former consulting engagements – shaped an elegant but unapologetic use of wood.

This has resulted in wines that are classical and, if old fashioned, have certainly withstood the test of time.

The phase that followed the dissolution of the partnership with Dassault, was pivotal. It marked the beginning of the pursuit of an identity unique to Altair and a true understanding of the local terroir. Deliberately reducing the use of oak allowed Chatonnet and Cumsille to more vividly explore the character of the fruit and vintage variation.

A different kind – and level – of nuance emerges as the duo experimented with different blends. The promise and potential of a truly Chilean fine wine emerges.

Missteps and regaining focus

With Gonzalo Castro and Marco Puyo at the helm as, respectively, head winemaker and technical director, Altair entered a new stage in 2013. During this period, San Pedro expanded its Cachapoal plantings and did extensive soil mapping. Greater knowledge of terroir was met, puzzlingly, with heavier-handed wood in the cellar – with uneven results.

But the careful study of soil and vineyard behaviour provided a good launchpad for the next winemaking leading duo. 2018, the first vintage of Altair with Gabriel Mustakis as head winemaker and Ignacio Diaz overseeing cellar operations, marked the beginning of the search for a new style, with more detail, better oak integration and a clear commitment to Cabernet Sauvignon.

There’s a clear intention to inscribe Altair among the great Cabernet’s of South America – an ambitious goal, considering the quality and history highlighted in Amanda Barne’s comprehensive overview.

Structural fine-tuning

Mustakis’ approach has clearly focused on improving wood integration and the enhancement of the tannic framework. For this, he deployed a variety of fermenting and ageing vessels and developed a more precise approach, with each plot vinified separately.

‘Concrete eggs, amphorae, foudres – vessels of different sizes, shapes, and materials for ageing allow us to adapt to the unique characteristics of the grapes at each vintage,’ he explains.

Although perhaps not yet at its full potential, the vertical showed a clear evolution, remarkable consistency and increasing technical precision. This translates into a particularly well-presented structure that supports the character of each vintage and the contribution of all the blending components ever more successfully.

Somehow, the story of Altair is also the story of how South American Cabernet Sauvignon – and Chilean in particular – carved its place on the international stage by asserting its uniqueness, rather than trying to emulate Bordeaux or North American role models.

‘It’s an opportunity to push the boundaries of what we can do with Chile’s unique terroirs,’ says Mustakis. ‘With over 20 vintages behind me, I feel a deep sense of responsibility not only to the [San Pedro] but also to the legacy of Chilean winemaking.’

San Pedro Altair – vintages 2003 to 2021 tasted and scored:

Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. 

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The seemingly endless drive down the driveway opens up to the expansive Clos Apalta vineyard, from which the eponymous flagship wine gets its name. It sits adjacent to its architecturally significant gravity flow winery that has graced the pages of countless magazines. And just above the vineyard, dotted about the steep mountainside are 10 ultra-spacious casitas and villas – the hallmark of the Clos Apalta experience.

Luxury lodgings

The four original casitas set the standard for luxury accommodation in the area, featuring large Balinese-style lodgings with local woods and other natural materials, shrouded by trees and wraparound verandas that allow for the utmost privacy. At the end of last year, six new villas were added.

Founded by Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle (yes, that Marnier), the 10 luxury lodgings are each large enough to accommodate entire families, and offer the utmost privacy.

Each villa or casita is named for one of the grape varieties grown in the vineyard, and a favourite is Sauvignon Blanc. Located mid-slope above the centre of the vineyard, it’s clad with floor-to-ceiling windows offering nearly 180º views that bring the outside in, and 148m² of living space. You’ll feel as if you’re living in the most opulent treehouse you’ve ever seen. The formal living room, with wood-panelled walls and millwork, is set off with its own door separating it from the rest of the villa. The bathroom is another story. Think: Turkish hammam with stone-tiled shower, and extra deep, stone soaking tub overlooking the nature reserve, where you can spot some of the local wildlife through the giant picture windows. Plush linens, bathrobes and luxe L’Occitane bath products add to the experience – and just outside the bathroom is your own personal plunge pool with lounge recliners.

A focus on local cuisine

The architecture and design of the Clos Apalta Residence has always been the initial draw, but from the beginning, the totality of the hospitality experience has been the focus, so the gastronomy programme is exactly what you’d expect from a member of the Relais & Châteaux group. The kitchen is helmed by Chef Leonel Diaz and most of the ingredients come from what’s grown on or can be sourced from very near to the property – hyperlocal cuisine – highlighting the flavourful tastes of Chile.

An expansive on-site garden supplies the kitchen with fresh veggies and herbs as well as flora that might be used as a garnish or complement to your dishes. The cuisine is colourful, flavourful, artfully prepared and Michelin level in every sense (the Michelin Guide doesn’t yet extend to Chile). Of course, none of this would matter if the wines were an afterthought. But as this is Clos Apalta, you can expect to taste some of the finest vintages and rarest of the Lapostolle portfolio served alongside your meals. And though lunch and dinner are served in the on-site restaurant, the extravagant breakfasts can be enjoyed in the comforts of your villa or casita if you so choose.

Activities aplenty

With lush environs and too-good-to-be-true views, it’s easy to think that wine, food and sleep are the only indulgences available to you, but that is far from the case. Taking part in a Pisco Sour masterclass, using Lapostolle Silver double distilled pisco, is certainly a treat. Cooking classes, horseback riding and guided hikes are also de rigueur.

There are tours of the winery itself, too, which is a kind of architectural feat that you don’t want to miss – you may even run into technical director Andrea León. But one of the best activities of all is stargazing: Chile has some of the clearest skies in the world so astronomy is taken seriously. Atop the roof of the iconic winery is a powerful telescope that is fitting to an end to a perfect evening, staring off into the galaxy, where you’ll likely wonder how you even got here in the first place.

For more information, visit the Clos Apalta website.

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Concha y Toro is the largest wine producer to join an initiative called the Bottle Weight Accord, which is designed to reduce the carbon footprint of wine packaging.

Participants commit to reducing the average weight of their 750ml still wine bottles to 420g or below by the end of 2026. That will significantly reduce their carbon gas emissions.

Valentina Lira, sustainability director at Concha y Toro, said: ‘We are confident that we are well on the way to the 420g average thanks to great efforts made by our product design, packaging, production, and sustainability teams to date.

‘This is just the first step for us as we look to continue reducing the weight of our bottles and incorporate new formats in the future.’

Five large retailers – Whole Foods, Lidl, The Wine Society, Alko in Finland and Systembolaget in Sweden – joined forces to study the average weights of wine bottles. They found that the average bottle of wine weighed 550g.

Dom de Ville, director of sustainability and social impact for The Wine Society, said: ‘Carbon emissions from glass bottles make up around 30% of our total emissions as a business, so reducing glass bottle weight is a key way that we can reach our goal of halving total emissions by 2032.’

That study inspired a British group called the Sustainable Wine Roundtable (SWR) to launch the Bottle Weight Accord initiative in autumn 2023.

It was initially supported by the retailers that funded the study, but signatories now include a wide range of wine business from across the entire supply chain.

However, Concha y Toro is the largest producer thus far to get involved. The Chilean company is the largest wine producer in South America and one of the 10 largest producers in the world.

Concha y Toro produces around 384 million bottles per year, with brands such as Casillero del Diablo from Chile, Trivento from Argentina and Bonterra in California.

Dr Peter Stanbury, director of research at the SWR, said: ‘South America is one of the regions which historically has seen some of the heavier wine bottles used, so it is great to see Concha y Toro, a major player in the region, take the lead in committing to a lightweighting standard.’

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The stellar reputation of South America’s premium red wines has been built on the region’s iconic varietal wines: Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, and Uruguayan Tannat.

Yet these wines are a relatively recent phenomenon, only really gathering pace in the 1980s when South American wineries – their sights set on export – joined the wave of varietally labelled wines emerging from the New World.

Prior to this shift in focus, South American winemakers had been more interested in producing European-style blends – and Bordeaux blends in particular. This was a reflection of the early French and other European influences on the local wine industry.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 premium South American red blends

Blending traditions

The first South American vineyards were planted by Spanish settlers and missionaries in the 1500s, but it was the wave of European immigration in the late 1800s and early 1900s that had the most significant impact on the development of the modern South American wine industry.

Many wineries were founded or advised by French vignerons, and mass immigration from wine-producing regions of Spain, Italy and France in particular ensured that European varieties and sensibilities took hold. European blends found a new home in South America.

Varietal Malbec, Cabernet, Carmenère and Tannat moved into starring roles on the world stage in the decades following the 1980s surge, and since then top winemakers have continued to evolve their premium blends behind the scenes.

The best Bordeaux-style blends are far from mere imitations of Bordeaux. South America’s winemakers are creative, blending in the local heroes Malbec, Carmenère and Tannat.

Other European varieties such as Syrah and Cabernet Franc are also adding refinement, with winemakers seeking to balance tradition and innovation.

Meanwhile, the emergence of new geographical indications (or GIs – delimited areas indicating the origin of a wine, which may be stated on labels), such as the sub-regional GIs of the high-elevation Uco Valley, is encouraging experimentation with new grape varieties, such as Rhône-style blends based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

The character of local terroirs and individual vintages is being given increasing weight, too; good vintages such as 2018, 2019 and 2021 have seen quality elevated to new heights.

Greater finesse

The line-up of premium South American red blends from which I made this selection included some truly world-class wines. Perhaps the most revealing aspect of the tasting was an evident stylistic shift towards greater finesse – these will always be wines of body and opulence, but they are increasingly elegant and vibrant, too.

And although these are wines built to last another decade – or longer – in the cellar, you’ll find that many are drinking beautifully already.

It’s no surprise that many of these wines are earning recognition in prestigious markets, including La Place de Bordeaux (since the 17th century used as a central distribution network for Bordeaux wines, but which in recent years has developed into a platform to sell elite wines from around the world).

Cheval des Andes became the first Argentinian wine to be sold through La Place in 2003.

Premium red blends have played the role of understudy in South America for decades, but they are steadily now moving into the spotlight – it’s time to take a fresh look.

Notes and scores for 18 top South American red blends

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Andy Howard MW, Christine Allen and Eugenio Egorov tasted 131 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 71 Highly Recommended.

Sparkling wines of the Americas: Panel tasting scores

131 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 71

Recommended 55

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release sparkling wines from any recognised appellation in the Americas, north or south – vintage or non-vintage, of any colour white, rosé or red, and produced according to the traditional or ancestral methods (ie, respectively, secondary fermentation in bottle or a single fermentation in bottle.

The judging panel were impressed by the outright quality on show in this tasting, from areas as diverse as the Niagara Peninsula and Nova Scotia in Canada down to the southerly extremes of Patagonia. At the end, Eugenio Egorov enthused about ‘the rise of American sparkling wine – a New World of bubbles’.

He observed: ‘A quiet revolution is underway across the Americas, and the results are nothing short of impressive.’ Andy Howard MW agreed: ‘The quality came as a surprise, with fantastic balance and precision in the top-scoring wines.’

Scroll down to see the top results from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Six nation tasting

This six-nation tasting traversed Canada, the US, Brazil, Uruguay, Chile and Argentina. It was no great shock that many US wines did well, with the long-established Chandon performing strongly.

And no surprise, either, that the Racines Grand Reserve Chardonnay gained a score of 94, given the involvement of Rodolphe Péters (of Champagne Pierre Péters) and Etienne de Montille and Brian Sieve (Domaine de Montille in Burgundy).

What did bowl the panel over was the quantity and quality of wines from Canada. Of the 79 Canadian wines tasted, three were deemed Outstanding, 37 Highly recommended.

Availability may be a challenge in the UK, but those in North America should celebrate the quality on offer in their backyard.

Ultra-cool climate Nova Scotia performed well (with the highly distinctive hybrid L’Acadie Blanc grape displaying its benchmark acidity in one of Blomidon’s wines.

But it was Ontario that provided the greatest excitement.

Two Niagara estates took top honours, with York Vineyards a particular shock as its first releases were yet to hit the market (due July/August 2024) at the time of tasting. These wines show the potential of this region.

York Vineyards is currently the only estate in Ontario (and perhaps in Canada) known to be focusing entirely on traditional method sparkling wine; barrel fermentation/ maturation and extended lees ageing here have resulted in some excellent wines.

See all the wines from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Bright future

South America didn’t perform quite as strongly, perhaps a reflection of the market driven, sharper price limitations on producers in Chile, Uruguay and Brazil.

Many of the wines are Recommended (86-89pts), but fewer shone as brightly as those from the US and Canada.

The developing ‘frontier’ regions of Limarí (Chile) and Chubut (Argentinian Patagonia) did show great potential.

The Otronia estate in Chubut was a great discovery. In the extreme south of Argentina (45’33’’) where the climate is cold and hostile, the first vines were planted in 2010.

The results for such youthful wines are impressive – great focus, purity and energy.

Egorov summarised the potential for the sparkling wines of the Americas: ‘As the global demand for sparkling wine continues to rise, and prices in traditional regions like Champagne and Italy climb ever higher, American producers are stepping up to offer exciting alternatives with more accessible price-tags.’

He concluded: ‘The future of fizz is looking bright on this side of the Atlantic.’

Sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Christine Allen is marketing director for distributor Maisons Marques et Domaines, particularly focusing on Old World regions, Champagne and sparkling wine. She has years of experience across sales, marketing and buying in the fine wine market, and is a DWWA judge.

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester.

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Malbec and Carmenère may have become South America’s most emblematic red varieties, but in keeping with the rest of the wine world, the most-planted wine grape is actually Cabernet Sauvignon. With 50,677ha of vines in Chile and Argentina alone (2022), according to government data, this Bordeaux variety has been the darling of the continent since its arrival some 180 years ago.

In the newly independent South American republics in the mid-19th century, the wealthy elites had a penchant for European fancies. It became a rite of passage to take a ‘Grand Tour’ around Europe, during which many developed a taste for the wines of Bordeaux.

This was the catalyst for developing the wine industries of Chile and Argentina – to recreate the sophisticated flavours experienced abroad. The native Criolla grapes growing at home were fine for jug wine and brandy, but didn’t come up to the standards of the colour and structure of the red wines of Bordeaux.

In a bid to get closer to the wines they so admired, a handful of wealthy vignerons started an import programme in the 1840s and 1850s – importing not only French vines but winemakers, too.

‘The French paradigm completely changed the style of wines here,’ says leading Chilean historian Pablo Lacoste, ‘and more and more people demanded these styles as time went by.’

22 great South American Cabernet Sauvignons listed below

All in the timing

The love affair with Bordeaux has run hot ever since. Although there’s a medley of international influences in South American wines today, it can be argued that Bordeaux has been the single most significant, bringing in knowledge, investment and vine material key to the development of South America’s Cabernet Sauvignon.

The timing of Cabernet Sauvignon’s arrival from France in the mid-1800s was fortuitous. Not long after the vines had crossed the Atlantic and been planted in South American soil, phylloxera swept across Europe, the pest devastating the vineyards of France, including those in Bordeaux. South America was suddenly a treasure trove of phylloxera-free European vine cuttings.

As such, Chile and Argentina’s massal selections – vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing stock of ‘mother vines’ on an estate – of Cabernet Sauvignon are living relics, offering great genetic diversity.

These are some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the world. Centenarian vines still producing wines can be found in Colchagua, Curicó and Maule in Chile, with the oldest believed to be the ungrafted vines of Neyen in Apalta, planted in 1889.

Meanwhile, in Argentina, many old vines can be found around the regions of Mendoza, but the oldest are believed to be held by Colomé in Salta in northern Argentina – at 2,300m, a field blend of ungrafted vines including Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with Malbec and other Bordeaux varieties, planted circa 1856.

Shaking off the past

Winemaking evolved with a Bordeaux accent, and Bordeaux blends emerged as ‘icon’ wines in the 1980s and ’90s, such as (Santa Rita) Casa Real, (Montes) Alpha M, (Errazuriz) Don Maximiliano, (Concha y Toro) Don Melchor and Almaviva from Chile, and Nicolás Catena Zapata and Cheval des Andes in Argentina. Wine styles also fluctuated with international tastes – South American Cabernets weren’t immune to the 2000s trend towards riper, heavily oaked wines.

Now, South American producers favour a more terroir-driven, local approach. In the vineyards, the hydric stress (aiming to reduce berry size and yields, to increase intensity of flavours) and major leaf plucking (to expose bunches to more sunlight and air) promoted by Bordeaux consultants in the 1990s are going out of vogue.

These techniques may have reaped benefits back in the rainier climate of France, but in the sunny, dry climates of Chile and Argentina, they can leave grapes raisinated and overripe.

Chilean winemaker Francisco Baettig, a key figure in developing the profile of luxury Chilean Cabernet, says: ‘The challenge now is preserving acidity and freshness, the juiciness of the fruit and elegance, with moderate alcohol. We’ve changed our viticulture to reflect that – we don’t stress the vines any more, and we harvest earlier.’

Winemakers are eschewing overt ripeness and concentration and aiming for balanced wines, with higher, more refreshing acidity, preferring a lighter hand in the cellar and less oak influence. This also means the Cabernet Sauvignon map has expanded to include cooler growing regions that produce fresher styles.

Coming of age

‘When I started as a winemaker, we were told that the Uco Valley was too cool for great Cabernet Sauvignon,’ says Juan Pablo Michelini, whose Altar Uco Cabernet eschews oak ageing in favour of concrete. ‘But we have had a revolution in our winemaking, and now I understand that we can make great Uco Cabernet when we seek elegance. It can be really interesting – not overly exuberant, nor austere; textural but not heavy.’

Contemporary styles of top South American Cabernet are focused and fresh, and although there are still many French hands and purse strings attached to the variety, this shows there’s an ever-increasing commitment to making wines that reflect South America’s own terroirs and winemaking journey. Cabernet Sauvignon from South America has finally come of age.

Top South American Cabernet terroirs

Cabernet Sauvignon is planted in each of South America’s wine countries, from the best known to Ecuador and Paraguay. But it’s not always a good fit. Although there are some promising regions in Uruguay and Brazil (in particular Rivera in the former and Campanha in the latter), the rainy and/or humid climates result in variable vintages.

Cabernet hasn’t made much of a dent in terms of quality wines in Peru or Bolivia, either. It’s in Chile and Argentina that Cabernet Sauvignon has thrived.

Chile

In Chile, Cabernet is king. Here it’s the most-planted variety – with some 37,000ha in the ground, according to SAG, the country’s agriculture and livestock service – and it produces superb wines. Cabernet Sauvignon put Chile on the fine-wine map.

At the heart of this great rise is the multitude of suitable Cabernet terroirs in the centre of the country. Just south of Santiago, Maipo has always been the undisputed heartland of Cabernet Sauvignon – largely influenced by its proximity to the wealth of the capital and within sight of many Bordeaux-obsessed vignerons.

The topography and climate of Maipo lend themselves to top-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The region’s vineyards follow the meandering paths of rivers that have brought stones and silt down from the Andes mountains, leaving terraces of river gravel similar to those seen in Bordeaux. With excellent drainage and access to water, these gravelly soils are ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives during the sunny, dry summers.

In the central part of Maipo, including the Isla de Maipo region, temperatures are more moderate and often cooler on average than in the rest of Maipo, offering gentle red-fruit expressions and softer tannins. The most celebrated terroirs are higher into the Andes foothills, where elevation increases the diurnal range – cooler nights and warmer days – leading to wines of structure and concentration, but also freshness.

Puente Alto, a sub-region of Alto (Upper) Maipo, is considered by many to be the holy grail of Chilean Cabernet terroirs. The three main properties there are arguably the country’s most famous: Viñedo Chadwick, Don Melchor and Almaviva.

However, there are also equally exciting and ageworthy expressions coming from the nearby sub-region of Pirque, as well as Buin, Peñalolén and the Santiago suburb of Macul. A hint of spearmint meddled with juicy cassis and an edgy minerality is typical of Cabernet from Alto Maipo.

There is also Cabernet Sauvignon aplenty to the north in Aconcagua and further south in Cachapoal and Colchagua. The warmer overall temperatures in the central Entre Cordilleras regions (between the eastern coastal mountains and the Andes to the west) make for riper, denser wines, which can often benefit from blending.

There are some notable varietal wines from the Andes regions, too, especially Colchagua’s Los Lingues. Here the higher altitude keeps the wines linear and refreshing, while retaining that trademark core of dense black fruit.

Even further south, Curicó and Maule are often overlooked, but there are some exceptional vines, from the ungrafted 122-year-old vineyard of Miguel Torres to Baettig’s Cabernet, grafted onto 100-year-old País vines half a century ago. The best wines here are nuanced and seductive.

Argentina

Over the Andes in Argentina, Cabernet Sauvignon became more popular in the 1990s but didn’t take off as Malbec did. There do, however, remain several Cabernet strongholds – the most notable being Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza. The Luján de Cuyo districts of Agrelo, Perdriel and Las Compuertas in particular are known for their rich, structured Cabernet wines.

An increasing number of premium Cabernet Sauvignons are coming out of the higher-elevation Uco Valley. Here, a fresher, spicier style is emerging, particularly from Gualtallary, at the valley’s northern end. The Cabernets that really trump the spice game though are those of Salta, in far northern Argentina, at even higher elevation.

These are the most peppery of all, as well as being heady with ripe fruit.

Benchmark Cab: the names to know and wines to seek out

Chile

Baettig

With his enviable flair for elegant Cabernet, Francisco Baettig has been reviving the overlooked region of Maule with a beautiful duo of Cabernet Sauvignons from his eponymous label. Grafted onto centenarian own-rooted vines of País, which provide wisdom and depth – as does this highly talented winemaker.

Carmen

Founded in 1850, Carmen is one of Chile’s oldest wineries and Cabernet has always been a strength. In recent vintages, Carmen Gold has been a star performer of Maipo, with a focus on fresher, floral expressions.

Concha y Toro, Don Melchor

Now celebrating its 35th vintage, Don Melchor is a well-established icon of Chile. For this wine, winemaker Enrique Tirado selects the cream of the Cabernet crop from Concha y Toro’s 12ha vineyard in Puente Alto. Terrunyo, a benchmark everyday Cabernet, comes from vineyards in nearby Pirque.

Cono Sur

Cono Sur is based in Colchagua, but Silencio, one of the top wines in the portfolio, comes from prime plots a little further north in Maipo Andes. The producer’s second label, 20 Barrels, includes a Cabernet Saivignon and is more widely available, particularly in the US, offering a more accessible glimpse into Cono Sur’s rich collection of Cabernet wines.

De Martino

From vineyards in the heart of Isla de Maipo, De Martino’s Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved from the riper style of the 2000s into a stripped-back, classy and understated style. Cuvée is the new icon, while La Cancha remains a classic.

Miguel Torres Chile, Manso de Velasco

One of the most prized vineyards that Spanish winemaking pioneer Miguel Torres discovered when establishing his Chilean outpost from 1979 (the vineyard was purchased in 1984). Winemaker Eduardo Jordán has now divided the ungrafted vineyard planted in 1902 in Curicó into terroir blocks – resulting in a top wine of greater finesse and precision.

San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos

One of the top wines of Viña San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos first came onto the premium scene in 1994. Gabriel Mustakis has been winemaker since 2018 and the most recent vintages are the most exciting, showing brightness and balance.

Santa Rita, Casa Real

Casa Real was one of the early ‘icon’ wines of Chile and has been one of the most admired since its first vintage in 1989. The majority of the fruit comes from old vines planted in the 1970s in Santa Rita’s Alto Jahuel vineyard.

Undurraga

Winemaker Rafael Urrejola makes wines all over Chile and has a special affinity with Cabernet Sauvignon. Top wine Altazor comes from 35-year-old vines in Pirque and has become increasingly refined over time. Terroir Hunter (TH) is one of the best-value Cabernets in Chile.

Viña Quebrada de Macul

A cult Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Chile, this boutique winery is one of the better-kept secrets of Macul. The hillside vineyard was planted in 1970 and French winemaker Jean Pascal Lacaze makes classic, ageworthy wines, including the flagship Domus Aurea and seductive second label Stella Aurea.

Viñedo Chadwick

When Eduardo Chadwick convinced his father to plant over his treasured polo field with vines in 1992, it was a risky move. But the gamble paid off, as this 15ha vineyard now produces one of Chile’s best, increasingly elegant and refined Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Argentina

Altar Uco

Juan Pablo Michelini has spent most of his winemaking life exploring the Uco Valley and Gualtallary. Altar Uco, launched in 2014 with Daniel Kokogian, is his passion project – these are understated yet vibrant wines, with evident mountain freshness.

Bemberg

This is the crème de la crème of the varied vineyard estates of the Bemberg family, owners of Argentina’s largest wine producer Grupo Peñaflor. Winemaker Daniel Pi has selected the best terroirs for each variety; the Cabernet from Cafayate embraces the spicy typicity of the north.

Casarena

Specialising in single-vineyard expressions from Luján de Cuyo, Casarena is refreshing in its vision. The Owen vineyard is an old-vine treasure – 20ha of parral-trained (on pergolas) Cabernet Sauvignon that’s more than 90 years old.

Susana Balbo Wines

Known as the Queen of Torrontés, Susana Balbo is also a long-time disciple of Cabernet Sauvignon. Her winery remains in Luján de Cuyo, but the wines have gradually transitioned to the Uco Valley and to spicier, more nimble, livelier reds.

Viña Cobos

One of Argentina’s first flying winemakers, Paul Hobbs has long been a believer in Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon; although his successes with Malbec and Chardonnay have perhaps obscured that. Nevertheless, he remains one of the top producers in Agrelo, making ageworthy wines.

And the wines… Amanda Barnes reviews 22 benchmark South American Cabernets:

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The path that leads to Leonardo Erazo’s winery is narrow and slippery. The mud is thick from rain that has not stopped for almost a week, and the pine forests on both sides barely let in the light.

I should have listened to Erazo when he told me to rent a 4×4 – instead I’m inching across the mud in a sedan. Fortunately, it manages to reach the end of the road, where the pine trees suddenly give way to a spectacular view.

I can see the slopes of the round, green peaks of the coastal mountain range, about 4km away, dropping down into the Pacific Ocean.

Tasting notes for eight of Erazo’s must-try wines below

This place is called Cobquecura. It has no viticultural tradition to speak of, but it is close to the southern Chilean DO region of Itata, 500km south of Santiago, where vines have been cultivated for 500 years.

Itata’s vines fell into neglect when Chile’s Central Valley rose to vinous prominence from the mid-20th century, but they’ve undergone a renaissance in recent decades, with forward-looking producers such as Erazo rescuing this rich heritage of old, dry-farmed vineyards.

Today, a growing number of vintners work small vineyards of ancient País, Moscatel or Cinsault vines in Itata.

After the fires

The rain has stopped falling for a moment and the sky allows timid rays of winter sun to sneak through the dense layers of clouds. Erazo, 45 years old, is waiting for me among the vines. He wears a thick sleeveless vest, shorts and working boots. He smiles with his usual warmth.

We haven’t seen each other for a couple of years, since just before Itata was devastated by the 2023 fires that destroyed, according to USDA Foreign Agriculture Service reports, about 440,000ha of land (mostly pine forests), killed 26 people and destroyed houses, wineries and an unknown number of old vineyards.

Fortunately, the fire did not reach Erazo’s property in Cobquecura, but it did destroy four of his six hectares in the Guarilihue area of Itata – the heart of the valley and the source of his best Cinsault wines.

‘It was very fast. In a matter of hours there was nothing left. Fortunately, the winery was not damaged, although the flames came close,’ he remembers.

Erazo is slowly recovering from the disaster, trying to revive his 6ha of burned vines in Guarilihue, while rearing his 4ha of new vines at home in Cobquecura.

He planted the latter in 2020 – all to white varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Albariño, Riesling and Chardonnay – and they are just now producing their first wines, which are not yet on the market.

These are fresh and refreshing white wines, marked by the cold breezes of the Pacific ocean. ‘I tried to make reds, like País or Pinot Noir, but they didn’t work, he explains. ‘It is too cold here. Maybe if the soil held more water they could ripen, but the stone soil doesn’t retain anything.’

The journey so far

After graduating as a winemaker and working briefly for Chilean wineries such as Pérez Cruz and Via Wines, Erazo decided to travel the world. He made wines in Priorat, Catalonia; Sonoma, California; Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand; and also in South Africa.

From 2012 to 2020 he was the winemaker at Altos Las Hormigas in Mendoza. Seduced by the rich heritage of old vineyards, he decided to settle permanently around Itata.

‘In 2010, while working as a viticulture professor at the University of Concepción, I was able to get to know the valley more closely and also made my first Cinsault wines,’ he says.

Cinsault seems to be what attracted Erazo to Itata, but instead of starting a new life in the region’s interior, where plenty of old Cinsault vines exists, he moved west to Cobquecura, on the coast north of Concepción.

Erazo lives with his wife Zjos and their four children – Emilia, Esteban, Matías and six-month-old Teresa – in their ocean-facing home, next to the winery and large warehouse, built of recycled materials.

‘There is another energy here, the energy of the Pacific. And there is much more to do,’ he says, smiling. ‘It’s a place without history, without vineyards – we don’t know what we’re doing, it’s all trial and error. And that is the challenge.

The sense of Cinsault

Erazo produces about 60,000 bottles from Itata vines, from his own vineyards as well as those he rents and others from which he purchases fruit. He works mostly with Cinsault, but also País, Moscatel, Semillon and Carignan.

‘Some have told me I should plant Gamay or Trousseau, but I don’t agree. Cinsault is already here, it has already acclimatised – it just needs to be polished,’ he says.

He has been committed to the variety since he made his first Cinsault in 2013, under the Rogue Vine brand, a joint project with his friend Justin Decker, a Californian who settled in the area.

Cinsault is not easy to work with. Until De Martino winery rescued it for the market in 2010 (with its Viejas Tinajas label), it was considered an unimportant variety that produced uninteresting wine.

In Chile it is still known as la cargadora (‘the loader’) because of its tendency to produce too many bunches. But De Martino paved the way for others to follow, offering juicy, refreshing reds ideal for relieving the heat of summer.

Some, like Erazo, decided to take Cinsault to an even higher level. ‘We have heard so much rubbish about this variety that it is difficult to forget, but like most grapes, if it is planted in the right places and cared for it can produce great reds,’ he assures.

From his first trials he realised that Cinsault was very sensitive to soil type and that its bad reputation could be partly attributed to being planted in an unsuitable terroir.

‘One of the things I learned first was that if Cinsault is grown in soils with too much clay, without stones, it produces a bland wine, without grip or bones,’ he explains.

Wines under the A los Viñateros Bravos label come from partner vineyards, small plots spread across the slopes of the Guarilihue mountains. Wines under the Leonardo Erazo label (featuring a drawing of an owl on the label) are sourced from parcels that Erazo owns or manages himself, some no bigger than a few rows.

Talking terroir

Erazo divides the terroir of the Guarilihue region in Burgundian terms for his own reference. The A Los Viñateros Bravos’ Granítico and Pipeño labels (see tasting notes, p54) equate to ‘village’ wines, from soils with a higher proportion of clay.

The Leonardo Erazo ‘premier crus’ (such as Las Curvas, La Ruptura, Hombre en Llamas and El Tunel) come from soils where rock predominates over clay; and for the Leonardo Erazo ‘grand cru’ Amigo Piedra, the soils are rockier still.

All in all, Erazo makes about 35 wines, spread across different markets. Some don’t even go to market, but are simply tests of a few hundred bottles that he makes for fun.

‘Commercially, it may not be the best option to make so many different wines, but it is the way I interpret the diversity of Itata,’ he smiles. ‘I couldn’t make vineyard blends. I don’t see the point.’

Altogether this is a portfolio of delicious wines. Juicy, tense whites; mouthwatering País; and especially the charming, profound Cinsault reds. These tiny patches of semi-forgotten old bush vines, rescued by committed vignerons like Erazo, are producing Chile’s most characterful wines.

Alternative Chile: Erazo style, eight to try from Itata

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Dror Nativ MW, Ben Gubbins and Andy Howard MW tasted 52 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 19 Highly Recommended.

South American Merlot: Panel tasting scores

52 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 19

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still red wines labelled as single-varietal Merlot, from any recognised appellation in South America and consisting of a minimum 85% Merlot

Merlot rarely gets the limelight. This is particularly true of Merlot from South America, where signature regional varieties – Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, Uruguayan Tannat – dominate. Merlot is often overlooked, or blended with other varieties.

However, this panel tasting of 52 wines demonstrated that Merlot has the capability to surprise and delight, particularly when sourced from the continent’s cooler regions.

While Tannat accounts for more than a quarter of plantings in Uruguay, Merlot at 615 hectares accounts for about 10%, the third most-planted (INAVI, 2023). Of the six Uruguayan Merlots tasted, the three Highly recommended wines all hail from Maldonado, where cool Atlantic breezes seem to work their magic on this variety.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the South American Merlot panel tasting

The powerhouse

Argentina may be known as a Malbec powerhouse, yet five of the 11 Argentinian Merlots tasted were rated 90-points or more. Two Outstanding wines emerged from the cool south of Patagonia.

Ben Gubbins noted that the Merlots from this region showed a distinct blue-fruit profile. Riccitelli Old Vines Merlot from the Patagonia sub-region of Río Negro stood out for its likeness to cool-climate Syrah, showing beautiful aromas of violets and crushed black pepper. The Otronia 45 Rugientes comes from Patagonia’s wild and windswept Chubut sub-region; its racy acidity and refined style breaks the Merlot mould.

Not unexpectedly, Chile dominated the tasting. At 10,651ha, Merlot is the third most-planted variety here (8.3% of plantings, according to SAG data for 2022), after Cabernet Sauvignon (28.8%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11.2%). The country fared well, with 43% of the 35 Chilean wines scoring 90pts or above.

Two Outstanding Chilean Merlots were uncovered. Cousiño Macul’s Jardín de Macul was celebrated for its combination of hedonistic opulence and ageworthy concentration, dubbed by Andy Howard MW ‘a fine advert for Maipo Andes’ in the inland east of the region.

The Bournet Lapostolle family’s Cuvée Alexandre also impressed the judges with its structure and ageability.

See all the wines from the South American Merlot panel tasting

Cellarworthy

In fact, the capacity of Chilean Merlot to age, alongside its remarkable value, was what most astonished the panel. Gubbins noted: ‘There is definitely something to be said about the ageability of these wines.’ And Howard agreed: ‘I think you can keep them longer than you might suspect.’

Eleven of the Chilean wines tasted were from the 2018-2020 vintages and more than half scored 90pts and above. Incredibly, at the time of tasting, seven were available at less than £15 a bottle: an impressive, and rare, ratio of value to ageworthiness.

South American Merlot may be less fashionable, but in terms of drinkability, ageability and value, it compares very favourably to Merlots from more established regions around the world.

South American Merlot panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Dror Nativ MW is a wine buyer for major retailer Marks & Spencer, responsible for South America as well as Bordeaux, Burgundy, England, Champagne and sparkling wine. Having begun his career in the hospitality sector, he has also worked in varying roles at Hayward Bros, Spar and Sainsbury’s.

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

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It was a complete shock,’ says Alvaro Espinoza, remembering the fateful moment 30 years ago. Jean-Michel Boursiquot, the French ampelographer, had just informed him that his prized Merlot vineyard was not what he thought it was. ‘He told me it wasn’t Merlot at all… that it was a grape variety I’d never heard of – Carmenère!’

It was 24 November 1994, and Espinoza was a 32-year-old winemaker at Carmen, in Chile’s Maipo Valley region. Espinoza spoke some French, so he’d been invited to host Boursiquot and show him around Carmen’s vineyard. He certainly hadn’t been expecting a lightning-bolt moment – one that would change not only his career, but the history of Chilean wine.

Scroll down for 15 of Chile’s best Carmenère

At the time, Carmenère was believed to be practically extinct. This ancient variety had travelled around Europe’s wine regions, becoming one of the key varieties in Bordeaux by the early 1800s.

But when the devastating phylloxera plague wiped out great swathes of Europe’s vineyards, Carmenère was among the victims. The variety was all but lost from the vineyards of Bordeaux and was never replanted to any significant degree.

Survival in exile

But that belief, it turns out, was wide of the mark. While accurate records from the time are scant, the thinking is that Carmenère had already been brought over from France into Chile, along with other varieties, by the mid-1800s, before phylloxera hit Europe.

Leading Chilean historian Pablo Lacoste has stated, in an interview for Wines of Argentina, that ‘Carmenère and Malbec entered Chile and Argentina in the mid-19th century, as part of the Frenchification of viticulture…’

The Carmenère was mistakenly labelled as Merlot and planted around the country under a false guise. Thus it secretly survived in exile for more than 100 years, until that fateful spring day in 1994.

Now tasting the wine in tanks with Boursiquot, Espinoza could see how that plot of his best ‘Merlot’ had notably different flavours to the other plots – it was spicier, yet softer. The penny dropped. ‘I was suddenly really quite excited to be discovering this lost variety!’ he remembers.

But the dream discovery soon became a nightmare. ‘I was receiving threats every week over the phone,’ Espinoza goes on. ‘I lost several kilos due to stress.’ It transpired that many more of Chile’s so-called Merlot vines were in fact Carmenère – and some members of the Chilean wine industry were, to put it mildly, reluctant to embrace it.

At the time, Merlot was Chile’s boom variety – especially popular in the growing US market – and no one wanted Chile’s big secret to adversely affect sales. Just a few years earlier, Chile had suffered a similar fate with its Sauvignon Blanc, plantings of which had been revealed to be the far lower-quality Sauvignonasse variety.

The reputation of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc sank like a brick. Replanting with the correct variety took years; the reputational rebuilding would take decades.

‘We’d had a similar experience with our Sauvignon Blanc, so we had our concerns,’ remembers Aurelio Montes, then a consultant to Fundación Chile (the think tank that had brought ampelographer Boursiquot to Chile) and now one of Chile’s most prominent Carmenère champions.

‘But we were still completely shocked. Imagine discovering that we had an ancient variety in Chile which barely existed anywhere else in the world!’

A conundrum

They faced a conundrum. ‘Do we tell the world, or keep it quiet?’ recalls Montes. ‘It was a great embarrassment to have discovered a century later that our award-winning Merlots weren’t actually Merlot… Not only was it going to be embarrassing for Chile, but also for the critics who were giving it recognition.’

In the end, they ’fessed up. But those pioneers who first took Carmenère to market felt like they were swimming against the tide. ‘I honestly thought I was going to lose my job; almost every week I was told I was putting the future of Chilean Merlot at risk,’ remembers Espinoza.

He launched the 1994 vintage that Boursiquot had tasted as the world’s first commercial release of Carmenère (bottled under its synonym, Grande Vidure) in more than 130 years.

Espinoza travelled to key markets to showcase the new wine and discovery, to the serious concern of many at home. However, after one publication published a full-page splash on the revelation – and gave Chile its first 94-point score – the tide turned. Carmenère and Espinoza had left Chile as demons, but returned as heroes.

And so the real work began.

Teething trouble

‘It was a beautiful story – rescuing a prehistoric variety from extinction,’ Montes now concedes. ‘But it got off to a bad start… a lot of those first wines were terrible!’

With few significant points of reference in the contemporary wine world, Chile’s wine industry was now grappling with learning how to grow, vinify and market an unknown variety. And it wasn’t easy to master.

It was Carmenère’s challenging nature that contributed to it not being replanted in Bordeaux post-phylloxera – it is vulnerable to coulure (poor fruit set) and has a propensity for high vigour, which can have deleterious effects on yield, grape quality and, in turn, wine quality.

So if you get the climate, soil or viticulture wrong, you can end up with a very green, harsh and thin wine.

These are lessons Chile had to learn the hard way, through experience. Carmenère may have been an ancient variety, but it was now experiencing a second adolescence – and all the growing pains that come with it.

‘Chilean Carmenère quickly earned a bad reputation,’ recalls Montes. ‘There was a lot of poor-quality Carmenère that had been planted in the wrong places, harvested at the wrong time and vinified in the wrong way.’

Hard-learned lessons

The lessons have been hard-earned but there is a consensus among winemakers today: plant Carmenère somewhere warm with soils that are poor enough in nutrients to reduce vigour but that can retain adequate water in winter.

Also, the older the vines, the better. ‘The old vines naturally produce very small bunches, which mature really well,’ explains Undurraga winemaker Rafael Urrejola, whose Extinto vineyard in Cachapoal, south of Santiago, is more than 75 years old.

‘The dry-farmed old vines also naturally give you a lower pH and higher acidity, which is always the challenge with Carmenère.’

Because it can struggle to retain acidity in hot climates, Carmenère is often blended with higher-acid varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. But if you find a sweet spot, the variety can also stand on its own – as many of the best examples from Peumo and Apalta in particular go to show.

Old variety, new story

This year marks 30 years since the discovery of Carmenère in Chile. In the past decade, we’ve seen an enormous leap in quality, with a number of different paths to success being uncovered.

Two major Carmenère schools have emerged: the first, exploiting the variety’s late-ripening nature to the full, champions more opulent wines, lavish in their ripe fruit character and silky mouthfeel; the second favours a fresher, more peppery style, embracing the variety’s spicier side.

Montes is of the former school: ‘I believe in full ripeness for Carmenère,’ he affirms. ‘It is the last variety I harvest – only when we have the notes of dried figs, ripe cherries and blackberries, with smooth, mature tannins and a full body.’

Montes’ iconic Purple Angel is the embodiment of this style, a wine that is wildly successful in certain markets. Other major names, including Santa Carolina, Concha y Toro and Casa Silva, are also advocates of this school.

‘If there is any single grape variety that allows you to abuse a post-fermentation maceration, it is Carmenère!’ chuckles Mario Geisse, technical director at Casa Silva. ‘Although it has plenty of tannins, they are smooth and round, and you can have these extensive macerations without the wines being aggressive at all. Carmenère made in this way can age for well over a decade.’

On the flip-side, producers such as De Martino, JP Martin, Koyle, Maquis, Santa Rita and Undurraga are harvesting earlier and performing light macerations to obtain floral, spice-driven expressions.

‘We have learned that you can push the limits with Carmenère,’ says Santa Rita winemaker Sebastián Labbé, who started experimenting with a radically fresher style of Carmenère in 2017. ‘You can pick earlier, use whole bunches and cooler ferments to get much more texture and tension.’

Urrejola is of the same mentality: ‘We have actually started making our Carmenère more like Pinot Noir, with a really gentle extraction,’ he says. His new Extinto (soon to be available through UK agent Hallgarten Wines) is one of the most floral and elegant Carmenère wines I have tried to date, offering yet another dimension to this chameleonic variety.

Into the limelight

Whichever Carmenère school Chile’s winemakers belong to, one thing is for certain: Chilean Carmenère is no longer struggling with an adolescent identity crisis. These different styles of Carmenère reflect Chile’s growing confidence in its innate diversity of terroirs and personalities. Both schools of thought have their place, and undoubtedly both will attract a different set of followers.

And now, more than ever, Chile’s winemakers have been emboldened to share the incredible story – and wines – of this once-lost variety that found its way in Chile.

Chile’s best Carmenères

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Chile, often referred to as ‘the long, thin country,’ boasts a rich tapestry of microclimates and grape varieties, underpinned by a deep-rooted winemaking heritage. Its striking flora and fauna can call to mind a Jurassic Park-style ‘land that time forgot’ – and that metaphor can be extended to the country’s vineyards.

Grape varieties that fell out of favour decades ago in Europe are still grown and given serious attention here. In terms of red grapes, Carmenère is the most prominent example, but the same applies to Cinsault and Carignan. Equally, ‘international’ varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Pinot Noir, many planted in the 1990s, are the basis of excellent wines too.

This year’s Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) show an enormous range of choice, particularly for red-wine lovers. Chile laid claim to an impressive 23 Gold medals (15 of which were for red wines), its best-ever set of results.

And, for the second year running, a Best in Show accolade went to a varietal Carmenère. This year it was Santa Carolina, Herencia Carmenère, Los Lingues, Colchagua 2020 (97 points), which judges described as ‘vivid, fresh and vibrant, the fruit tones achieving unusual subtlety and complexity’.

Santa Carolina’s premium wines winemaker Alejandro Wedeles Pacheco said of the winning wine, ‘We aim to express the true essence and potential of the Carmenère grape variety, which is emblematic of Chilean viticulture. Our goal is to capture the richness, complexity, and elegance that this variety can offer.’ The first vintage of this ‘icon’ wine was 2007, the year Wedeles Pacheco joined Santa Carolina.

Scroll down to explore Chile’s top-awarded red wines from DWWA 2024

Carmenère: Chile’s flagship variety

Carmenère was brought to Chile from Bordeaux during the 19th century. Post-phylloxera, this late-ripening grape was grubbed up and rarely replanted in France. In Chile, meanwhile, it is the third most-planted red variety (after Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), with nearly 11,000 hectares (ha), many of them ‘heritage’ plantings.

The variety is capable of great things in its adopted homeland. ‘Carmenère, once nearly extinct, has found a perfect home in Chile,’ said Wedeles Pacheco, ‘particularly in the Peumo area within the Cachapoal Valley DO. Peumo is renowned for its exceptional terroir, characterised by its clay-loam soils and a microclimate ideal for this late-ripening variety.’

It’s not a variety without challenges, though, being sensitive to poor weather during harvest. But ‘when conditions are right, the results are spectacular, yielding wines with rich, dark fruit profiles, peppery notes and silky tannins.’

Interestingly, Santa Carolina has embarked on a project that harks back to Chile’s pre-phylloxera past. ‘Since 2012, Santa Carolina has been developing Bloque Herencia, an ambitious R&D initiative aimed at recovering pre-phylloxera, virus-free DNA material from rootstocks brought to Chile during colonial times and the 19th century,’ explained Wedeles Pacheco. The aim, he said, is ‘to enhance the diversity of our project components to create more dynamic and less monotonous wines’.

In addition to the Best in Show accolade (awarded to just 0.28% of wines entered this year), two Carmenère varietal wines won Golds. Judges described Viña Del Nuevo Mundo, Las Niñas Ella Reserva Organic Carmenère, Apalta, Colchagua 2022 (Value Gold, 95 points) as having ‘abundant ripe damson, blueberry and black plum with smoky tobacco and dried herb notes’. Concha y Toro, Terrunyo Carmenere, Peumo, Cachapoal 2021 (95 points) impressed with its ‘smooth, velvety texture and austere, refined tannins’.

Chile’s other red-wine ‘big hitters’

Syrah may be a relative newcomer to Chile (it’s only been a variety of note here since the 1990s) but it is generating much excitement of late. Depending on where this chameleon variety is grown, it can be made in a huge range of styles.

This year’s three Gold-winning Syrahs, Errazuriz, Syrah, Aconcagua Costa, Aconcagua Valley 2021 (96 points), San Pedro, Kankana Del Elqui, Elqui Valley 2021 (96 points) and Viña Mayu, Gran Reserva Titon Vineyard Syrah, Elqui Valley 2020 (Value Gold, 95 points), are all from cooler-climate areas (Elqui Valley and the relatively new Aconcagua Costa DO).

Pinot Noir plantings account for just over 4,000ha (about one tenth of Cabernet Sauvignon plantings) but winemakers are using the country’s diversity of terroirs to show what this grape can do, particularly in the areas where the proximity of the Pacific Ocean has a cooling effect, including the Casablanca and Leyda Valleys.

Gold medals went to Cono Sur, 20 Barrels Limited Edition Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley 2021 (95 points); Viña Morandé, Vitis Única Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley 2022 (95 points); and Leyda, Lot 21 Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, San Antonio 2022 (95 points).

‘Cool-climate Chilean Syrah and Pinot Noir are two real gems of Chilean wine,’ commented DWWA Acting Regional Chair Amanda Barnes. ‘They can offer such great value but also excitement with great varietal and regional identity.

‘I think Chilean coastal Syrah is some of the best in the world, and it was nice to see some great examples in the competition. Pinot Noir has a lot more competition worldwide, but Chile is definitely heading in the right direction with wines of greater elegance and poise.’

Not surprisingly, given that it’s the most widely planted variety in Chile, Cabernet Sauvignon was another big hitter in this year’s DWWA, with two Golds – for Viña Morandé, House of Morandé, Maipó Valley 2021 (95 points) and Espíritu De Chile, Intrépido Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Curicó 2022 (Value Gold, 95 points).

Underdogs on the rise

Dig deeper into the medal table, and stories of previously under-loved ‘underdog’ varieties emerge – key among them Carignan and Cinsault. Both varieties were planted in the earlier decades of the 20th century and, after long periods of neglect, are on the rise.

One Cinsault blend was awarded a Gold – Miguel Torres Chile La Causa Del Itata, La Causa Cinsault-País-Carignan, Itata Valley 2021 (95 points), a blend of 65% Cinsault with 23% País and 12% Carignan. Two Golds were awarded to Carignan varietals, both from the Maule Valley – Longaví, Soberano, Maule 2021 (95 points) and Viña Terranoble, Azara Carignan, Maule 2022 (95 points).

‘Chile should be making more of these varieties,’ believes Barnes, ‘as the country has a plethora of excellent-quality old vines and really great regions in the south to produce them. It is probably one of the most exciting categories that comes up in the competition, and easy to see why – wines of character, identity and often excellent value’.

The Maule Valley renaissance

Maule Valley enjoyed its best-ever performance at this year’s DWWA, claiming no fewer than five Golds, including the two Carignan wines cited above. J Bouchon, Granito Semillon, Maule 2022 (96 points) is made from old-vine Semillon, planted in the 1940s and unirrigated.

Viña Undurraga, Field Blend, Maule 2021 (95 points) is 90% Malbec, the remainder Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and País, from interplanted bush-trained vines ranging in age from 80-100 years old. Judges enjoyed the ‘wild floral and pomegranate flavours, which showcase the delicious typicity of the Maule region’ in Sutil’s Limited Release Garnacha, Cauquenes, Maule 2023 (96 points).

There’s clearly quite a lot afoot in this once-overlooked region.

‘I am really excited about the renaissance in Maule in recent years, with winemakers focusing on the great potential there for white and red wines,’ said Barnes. ‘We had some fantastic Semillon and Chenin Blanc from the region, as well as some thrilling Malbec blends, and a nice mix of red varieties. Maule is one of the great regions of Chile’s past and future, and I think the wines shone in the competition this year as a result of all the hard work happening in the vineyards and cellars.’

That is a sentiment that can be applied more broadly to the country as a whole. We may think of it as a ‘New World’ country, but Chile’s wine history dates back centuries. And now, its winemaking past and present are coming together in ways that hold great portent for the future.

DWWA 2024: Chile’s top-awarded red wines to try

Carmenère

Santa Carolina, Herencia Carmenère, Los Lingues, Colchagua 2020

97 Best in Show

For the second year running, Carmenère is Chile’s flag-bearer in our Best In Show selection. This one hails from Los Lingues, up on the northern border of the Colchagua Valley – a small sub-valley in its own right, nestling under the grandeur of the Andes, and a noted Carmenère hotspot. Dark black-red in colour, the wine has lively, spicy, meadow-like scents supporting ample red fruit. On the palate, it’s vivid, fresh and vibrant, the fruit tones achieving unusual subtlety and complexity and with soft, coaxing tannins helping to fill the palate out further and lend the finish a savoury allure. If you prize drinkability, though, you’ll find this a fine wine with classic ease and grace in the glass. Alc 14.5%

Concha y Toro, Terrunyo Carmenere, Peumo, Cachapoal 2021

95 Gold

A stylish event, brimming with blue fruit, bramble leaf and minty perfume, with a smooth, velvety texture and austere, refined tannins. Well-honed and luxuriously long. Alcohol 14%

Viña Del Nuevo Mundo, Las Niñas Ella Reserva Organic Carmenère, Apalta, Colchagua 2022

95 Value Gold

Abundant ripe damson, blueberry and black plum with smoky tobacco and dried herb notes interspersed. Rounded and firm with a meaty complexity and mouth-watering tannins. Super! Alc 14%

Cabernet Sauvignon

Espíritu De Chile, Intrépido Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Curicó 2022

95 Value Gold

Glistening with juicy blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry fruit, exuding vibrance and freshness across the nose and palate and finishing with fragrant herbal and pepper infusions. Alc 13%

Viña Morandé, House of Morandé, Maipó Valley 2021

95 Gold

Engaging blackberry, plum and cassis with layers of cedar, dried herb and mint character and deftly managed graphite tannins. A contemporary style with a long, mineral finish. Alc 13.5%

Carignan

Longaví, Soberano, Maule 2021

95 Gold

Striking fresh raspberries and wild flowers with a savoury lick of roasted red pepper laced with enriching tannins and pure acidity which invite you to take another sip. Alc 13.5%

Viña Terranoble, Azara Carignan, Maule 2022

95 Gold

A delicious fluidity of pomegranate and berry fruit and lively rose florals which bounce joyously over the racy acidity and expressive tannins. Lovely flair and typicity. Alc 13.9%

Grenache

Sutil, Limited Release Garnacha, Cauquenes, Maule 2023

96 Gold

Blooming with wild floral and pomegranate flavours which showcase the delicious typicity of the Maule region. Enchanting and racy with crunchy tannins and an exuberant finale. Alc 14%

Pinot Noir

Cono Sur, 20 Barrels Limited Edition Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley 2021

95 Gold

Opulent summer berries, sweet cassis and pomegranate with dried tobacco leaf unfurling to reveal complex, textured tannins and a glossy acidity. Nicely evolved, mellow and lengthy. Alc 14%

Leyda, Lot 21 Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, San Antonio 2022

95 Gold

A haunting perfume of autumnal berries, red cherry and dark florals mesmerise and inspire with a fresh tension of acidity and shapely mineral tannins. Youthful and elegant. Alc 13.5%

Viña Morandé, Vitis Única Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley 2022

95 Gold

A flourish of fragrant florals, ripe strawberries and red cherries which exude varietal character. Precise and taut with a bracing acidity and long savoury, salt-infused finish. Alc 13%

Syrah

Errazuriz, Syrah, Aconcagua Costa, Aconcagua Valley 2021

96 Gold

Luminous violet, mint and black cherry perfume bustle onto the satin, smooth palate with poised tannins and a ravishing nip of sea weed freshness on the finish. Alc 13%

San Pedro, Kankana Del Elqui, Elqui Valley 2021

96 Gold

Sultry black olive, dense black fruit and dark chocolate notes emerge and permeate the fleshy texture, finely woven tannins and lifted acidity. Long, lingering and toasty. Alc 14%

Viña Mayu, Gran Reserva Titon Vineyard Syrah, Elqui Valley 2020

95 Value Gold

Shining with plump red fruit and cassis which brings sweetness to the savoury core of black olive and charred toast, all striding confidently to the black pepper finish. Alc 14.5%

Blends

Miguel Torres Chile La Causa Del Itata, La Causa Cinsault-País-Carignan, Itata Valley 2021

95 Gold

Vivid mango and pineapple tropics meld with asparagus, herb and wet-stone minerals. Bursting with vim and vigour with pulsating acidity and a long citrus finish. Alc 12.5%

Viña Undurraga, Field Blend, Maule 2021

95 Gold

A multitude of inky blue and black fruits, dried herbs and mint which mingle beautifully with the seductive tannins and smoky, graphite core. Finessed and charming. Alc 14.5%

Search all DWWA 2024 results from Chile 

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Do you know the feeling? You’ve got new shoes and your favourite jacket. You’ve had a good haircut. You step out into the street feeling confident and ready to take on the world… That feeling was everywhere I went, on my recent visit to Chile – winemakers brimming with enthusiasm; wines full of energy.

And nowhere was this confidence more on display than in the country’s white wines. Known generally as a source of reliable, wallet-friendly Sauvignon Blanc, Chile is now also home to terroir-driven Chardonnay, old-vine Semillon and Chenin Blanc, unusual varieties and exciting blends.

In the three decades since the country began exporting to the UK, the revolution has been dramatic. Steve Daniel, head of buying at importer Hallgarten & Novum Wines, was the first to introduce Chile to British wine lovers.

‘When I first visited the country and brought back wines to Oddbins’ shelves in 1988, the wine industry as we know it in Chile was just starting out,’ he says. ‘They had no idea of what modern wine tasted or looked like, but they did have good-quality, mostly Cabernet, grapes.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 12 new wave Chilean white wines

White wine production was in its infancy. ‘Casablanca was being investigated as a potential source of quality white grapes and the first vines were in but not producing on a commercial scale,’ explains Daniel. ‘Leyda and San Antonio were not discovered from a wine perspective – nor were any of the higher-altitude or desert vineyards that are now used for quality white wine.’

The shift in Chile’s white wine scene has been motivated by a range of local and global factors. These include climate change, the exploration of new growing regions, a focus on old-vine heritage, changes in vineyard management and winemaking techniques – including a move away from overt oak use – and the rise of boutique producers.

Cooling influences

On the subject of climate, it’s worth pointing out that Chile is much cooler than you probably think – and its coolest regions are where white vines flourish. ‘People who don’t know Chile don’t know that we’re penguins,’ quips Tomás Rivera, viticulturist at Viña Leyda.

He’s talking about the Humboldt Current, which transports cold, sub-Antarctic water north along Chile’s Pacific coast. In a narrow coastal country like Chile, which averages only 177km east-west, the influence of the sea can’t be overstated.

Over time, vineyard plantings have crept ever closer to the ocean in order to take advantage of its cooling effects. ‘The explosion of coastal vineyards has been super-important in the boom of Chilean whites,’ notes Chile expert Alistair Cooper MW, DWWA judge and president of South America’s Catad’Or World Wine Awards.

Viña Leyda was a pioneer in Leyda, planting vines in 1998, releasing its first wine in 2001 and successfully petitioning for the creation of the Leyda Valley DO in 2002. There were only two other producers there when the DO started; now there are 10.

‘The signature of Leyda is high acidity,’ notes Rivera, whose vineyards are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Gris. ‘I really like Sauvignon Gris – it has a lot of potential. But Riesling is our challenge – no one knows about Riesling in Chile,’ he says.

His Riesling, planted on granitic soils and cooled by Pacific fogs, has vibrant linear acidity. Northwest of Leyda – and even closer to the sea – is the tiny Lo Abarca DO. Casa Marín is the only producer here; its founder, María Luz Marín, Chile’s first female winemaker, planted her vineyard just 4km from the Pacific, against the advice of other wine professionals but with a firm belief in the potential of cool-climate wines in Chile. Her faith was vindicated when her Sauvignon Blanc 2004 gained international recognition with a DWWA Gold medal.

‘We are one of the coolest vineyards in Chile – cooler than Leyda – and all of our wines show you coolness,’ notes Marín. What’s the signature of Lo Abarca? ‘Whites carry a silty character on the palate… And the wines age really well. We never have to acidify in the cellar – that’s why the ageing potential is so high.’ Indeed – that award-winning 2004 Sauvignon is tasting beautifully 20 years on.

Marín’s son Felipe is now in charge of winemaking, a generational change that has brought with it a stylistic shift that’s being mirrored all over Chile. ‘When Felipe arrived, he wanted wines with less alcohol, so we pick earlier,’ Marín explains. ‘I used to have a consultant from the US and the style was bigger, with higher alcohol. It’s now more delicate.’

Places not grapes

This general refinement of style has gone hand-in-hand with a better understanding of the unique terroirs that can be found across Chile.

‘Twenty years ago, we were looking for more commercial styles. In the last 10 years, there’s been

more of a focus on precision and finding a sense of place,’ explains Marcelo Papa, technical director at Concha y Toro. His top white, ‘Amelia’, from Limarí – Chile’s first ultra-premium Chardonnay – is a case in point.

One of the first to plant vines in the region, Papa has worked in Limarí since the 1990s, the style of his wines evolving as the vines matured and he gained a better understanding of the terroir. The Quebrada Seca vineyard is planted in four roughly 2.5ha blocks, 22km from the Pacific, on clay-calcareous soil.

‘Limarí is cool climate, but it’s cloudy, so there’s less sunlight. We have a similar number of degree days to Burgundy and Oregon,’ he adds. These conditions enable him to make ‘a very classic style of Chardonnay’ in the Burgundian mode.

He believes that regionality will become increasingly visible in Chile’s whites. ‘In 20 years’ time, people will be talking about places in Chile – regions – not grape varieties,’ he predicts.

‘People are looking for wines of site now, not wines of style,’ agrees Guillermo Calderón at Casas del Bosque in Casablanca – a DO that was pioneered by the influential Pablo Morandé for white wines.

‘Chile is moving towards pursuing its own identity. For a long time, we were trying to produce other styles, looking towards other regions… Now we are getting local identity for our wines.’

Going to extremes

The search for a unique identity has led winemakers to explore ever more diverse areas, venturing to the dramatic glacial landscapes of Patagonia in the deep south’s Austral region. Pioneers here include Casa Silva, the first to plant vines in Futrono, 904km south of Santiago, on volcanic slopes above Lago Ranco, in 2006.

The inaugural vintage of its Lago Ranco Riesling was released in 2016. The latest vintage reveals the potential of these maturing vines along with further proof that, in the right site, Riesling has a bright future in Chile.

Even closer to the Antarctic, Miguel Torres Chile has experimental plantings in Puerto Ibáñez and Puerto Sanchez near lake General Carrera. ‘Here there is a microclimate where temperatures are more moderate, with less extremes, without snow,’ says technical director Eduardo Jordán. ‘The biggest problem is the wind, so vineyards have to be protected with nets or natural protection with tree lines.’

The producer is still in the process of searching the region for the most suitable sites for placing the vineyards, he adds: ‘But we’re sure that this part of Chile has an important potential, especially given the climate change that has opened barriers unthinkable in recent years.’

Viña Ventisquero also has plantings near lake General Carrera. Its vineyards in Chile Chico sit at 46° 33’ latitude, in contrast to its plantings at the opposite end of the country, 690km north of Santiago at 28°S in the Atacama, the most arid desert on Earth.

‘It hasn’t rained here in the last 50 years!’ notes senior winemaker Alejandro Galaz. The Tara wines he makes from Atacama with head winemaker Felipe Tosso vividly display a sense of place.

Limestone soils, a rarity in Chile, produce Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with a mineral profile. However, viticulture was made more complex by the soil’s high salinity levels. ‘These soils are very old – millions of years ago they used to be under the sea – so there’s a large amount of salt,’ explains Galaz.

The initial plantings, made in 2008, failed; the problem was solved by installing individual sprinkler irrigation for each vine. Fog rolling in from the ocean 30km away and a significant diurnal temperature difference ensure that the grapes retain high natural acidity. ‘The increasing age of the vines has made a difference. We are understanding the vineyard much better now.

The character of the place doesn’t allow us to do much with the wines – they have to express themselves,’ concludes Galaz.

Back to the future

Alongside the innovation of these fairly recent plantings, there has been renewed interest in the heritage of Chile’s old vines in its historic growing

regions.

‘Main viticulture in Chile started in the 16th century in Itata,’ explains Jordán. The oldest vineyards were planted by Jesuit missionaries between the coastal range and the ocean. ‘I like Itata a lot. Everything is bush vines, dry farming; soils are slate, granite, loam, clay.’

Soil specialist Pedro Parra, known as ‘Dr Terroir’, was thinking about relocating from his native Chile to Chianti in Tuscany until he tasted wines from Itata.

‘You always ignore what’s on your doorstep,’ he admits ruefully. ‘Itata is the least Chilean place in Chile. It reminds me of Barolo with its round hills. There’s no irrigation, nothing industrial, and old vines.’ He explains that the high iron content in the soils – ‘like Burgundy’ – contributes to the particular character of wines produced from these old vines.

Also like Burgundy, vineyards here are planted in a patchwork of small plots, often owned and worked by the same families for generations.

Along with neighbouring Bío Bío, Itata was home to more than 75% of Chile’s vineyard area in the early 19th century. But as the Central Valley rose to prominence from the mid-20th century, these southern vineyards were largely forgotten.

Looking southwards

Concern for the environment sparked renewed interest, as unpredictable weather patterns and water scarcity prompted many to rethink both the location of vineyards and the viability of the location of vineyards and the viability of conventional farming.

The traditional dry-farmed vineyards of Itata and Bío Bío are more resilient to water shortages – though sadly they’re not immune to all of climate change’s effects, as the devastating wildfires of 2023 proved.

Moscatel de Alejandria and Semillon are the signature whites in Itata and Bío Bío, with many ungrafted centenarian vines. Encouragingly, much is being done to preserve them – both by boutique producers such as Itata pioneer Leo Erazo, who put the region back on the map, and by larger companies such as Santa Carolina, which has collected massal selections (cuttings from the estate’s best stock) of old vines in its Bloque Herencia vineyard.

‘When vineyards in Itata were devastated by wildfires, Santa Carolina could give growers massal selections of old vines to replant,’ says head oenologist Alejandro Wedeles.

Renewed interest in heritage grapes has brought with it a return to traditional techniques. For whites, this means skin contact and the use of using large old tinajas to age its Itata whites.

‘The tinaja tends to give some earthy clay notes, but largely it’s neutral,’ explains winemaker Nicolás Pérez. ‘The idea with the tinaja wines is to show purity of fruit but with a sense of place.’

In the mix

Traditional field blends from Itata – such as Erazo’s Rogue Vine Grand Itata Blanco, made from Moscatel, Riesling and Semillon planted in a dry-farmed vineyard in 1922 – show a different side to Chilean wine.

Indeed, some of the most exciting whites I tasted for this article were blends. They range from Santa Rita’s Floresta field blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Vert, Moscatel, Torontel and Corinto, to Valdivieso’s inaugural Caballo Loco Blanco, a daring mix not only of grapes but of regions and vintages.

‘It only took me seven years to put it together,’ jokes Valdivieso head winemaker Brett Jackson, who was inspired by the slowly oxidised style of aged white Riojas.

The blend includes Moscatel de Alejandria from Itata. ‘Moscatel de Alejandria is a tough call,’ he says. ‘It has this phenolic edge. But if you put it into barrel for four years, the tannins disappear and it becomes so rich, with oxidative characters.’

Also pushing the envelope for Chilean blends is Pablo Morandé Junior, winemaker at Bodegas RE, a boutique winery set up with his famous father and siblings in Casablanca in 2008. Its experimental wines include Chardonnoir, a white blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

‘We’re making new styles of wine; new for Casablanca and new for Chile,’ he says. ‘We blend wines, we blend names. We’re trying to make different wines to show other producers – to show that Chile has the potential for white blends.’

Meanwhile, in Maule, Viña Morandé planted Marsanne and Roussanne in Melozal in 2013. Chief winemaker Ricardo Baettig blends the fruit with Viognier from Casablanca to create his Rhône blend Bestiario, which is fermented and aged in concrete eggs.

‘Experiences in Europe led us to appreciate the potential of the Chilean climate with Mediterranean varieties,’ he explains. ‘We opted for unconventional varieties in Chile, such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, to highlight their potential and their ability to create an exceptionally complex and distinctive white wine.’

Baettig believes Rhône grapes could have a future in Chile. ‘In these 10 years managing vineyards of these varieties, we have learned a lot about better interpreting their characteristics. The future looks very promising!’

Although white plantings only account for 34,016ha of Chile’s total vineyard area, compared with 95,000ha for reds, Baettig is confident of the potential. ‘Beyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon is interesting, and also Chenin Blanc in Itata, grafted onto old País vines, is showing good results,’ he says.

Ventisquero’s Tosso agrees. ‘There is a lot more potential for whites in Chile. It’s easier to sell Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from Chile, but there’s room for other varieties,’ he says.

Meanwhile, styles of Sauvignon and Chardonnay continue to be fine-tuned. ‘In terms of quality, Sauvignon Blanc has more potential to express its terroir. There are more terroirs in Chile that suit Sauvignon Blanc; fewer for Chardonnay. But Chardonnay quality has increased big time.’

Importantly, Chile is now making serious whites that can age. ‘It’s a challenge for Chilean whites, because consumers think of young whites from Chile,’ notes Jordan of Miguel Torres. But it’s time to rethink, tune into Chile’s optimism and explore the exciting whites on offer.

Chile’s new whites: 12 to explore

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The 2023/2024 season has been another unusual one for Chile. In contrast to the extreme summer of the 2023 vintage, this season has been marked by mild temperatures. But the really striking thing about harvest 2024 was the contrasting impacts of the weather on the north and the rest of the country.

Ocean impact

With the El Niño phenomenon in transition during 2023, ‘temperatures in the Pacific rose 1–1.5 degrees,’ says Marcelo Papa, technical director at Concha y Toro. ‘In Chile that meant a mild winter, resulting in varied budding patterns. The high ocean temperature created greater cloud cover, less direct sunlight and rainy winters. These conditions continued after budding, resulting in slow ripening.’

A tale of two harvests

Andrea Calderón Vásquez, the oenologist at 1865 Wines which has vineyards in Elqui and Limarí in the north; in Leyda, Maipo, Cachapoal, Colchagua, Lontué (Curicó Valley) in central Chile; and in Malleco Chile’s – southernmost wine region, said: ‘It was like there were two harvests in Chile, one for the north and another for the central and southern regions.

‘For the northern harvest, I had to return from my holidays early, but I could have taken a second holiday while we waited for the southern harvest.’

In the north of Chile, the harvest was brought forward by between 15 and 20 days. From Santiago to the south, grape picking began 20 days later than usual.

North: quick and dry

In Limarí, ‘the winter was short and mild, causing vines to bud three weeks earlier than usual’, said Héctor Rojas, viticulturist at Tabalí. The rainfall in the south didn’t reach the north – the South Pacific High (a high-pressure system that can slow wet weather) resulted in a dry season for northern vineyards. Water shortages meant limited irrigation, which resulted in yields approximately 20% lower than usual.

Other producers in Limarí reported that the increased cloud cover was beneficial in the face of such dry weather, preventing overripeness in varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

High summer temperatures in Elqui brought ripening forward. Gabriel Mustakis, winemaker for San Pedro labels such as Kankana del Elqui and Tierras Moradas said: ‘The harvest occurred up to 15 days earlier than usual in Elqui. Fruit development occurred more rapidly, with greater sugar accumulation, excellent concentration, higher alcohol levels and balanced ripeness.’

The centre and the south: slow and wet

Aurelio Montes, of Viña Montes in Colchagua, said that 2023/2024 was ‘one of the strangest seasons I’ve seen as an oenologist. Winter 2023 had high temperatures and high rainfall. A cold, damp spring resulted in weak fruitset and fewer berries. Summer continued the trend of low temperatures, further delaying growth and ripening’.

‘Almost Bordelais’

In Maipo, overall the year was ‘decidedly cold and cloudy, with low sunlight. It was almost Bordelais’, said Papa. The cool end to 2023 was followed by high summer temperatures in January and February, resulting in gradual, uneven ripening. Earlier-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Franc were delayed by two to three weeks; yields for later-ripening varieties such as Carmenère were impacted by the cool spring. Thankfully, the end result was balanced; Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère both have moderate to low alcohol levels, elegant tannins and good freshness.

Sebastián Ruíz Flano, winemaker at Viña Tarapacá in Maipo, is quite enthusiastic about the 2024 harvest. ‘Harvest began 15–17 days later than usual but we’re happy with the results; the alcohol stayed low and the tannins are incredible. Fruit health was excellent because the rain held off, allowing us to harvest at just the right time. It was a great season.’

Vásquez added that in the coastal region of Leyda, ‘the cold spring impacted fruitset, producing lower yields. Uneven development steadied out in summer and we harvested on a date similar to previous years. Sparse bunches and prevalent local breezes resulted in healthy fruit’.

The southernmost Chilean wine region of Malleco experienced the same cool spring and delayed fruit development, but also heavy rainfall – 60mm fell in two days in March, triple the weekly average. Overall the season was damp and cold, resulting in Pinot Noir with lower alcohol levels and good acidity.

It’s certainly been another strange year for Chilean winemakers, in different ways. Ultimately, yields for the 2024 vintage are 10 to 15% below average but, despite the unusual weather, quality expectations are high.

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Eduardo Chadwick, the 2018 recipient of Decanter’s Hall of Fame award, has been instrumental in elevating Chile to the international fine wine stage.

As the country transitioned to democracy, and opened up to international markets, Chadwick finished his university degree and went on to become one of the most important faces in the swift modernisation of Chile’s wine industry.

He is the fourth generation of the Errázuriz-Chadwick family to take the the helm of Viñedos Familia Chadwick, and his unwavering belief in the potential country’s terroir to produce world-class wines has seen him become a natural ambassador for Chilean wine.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of old and new vintages of Errázuriz and Seña

Over the past three decades Chadwick has nurtured a pool of viticulture and winemaking experts who have become renowned in their own right, while future-proofing the legacy of not only the Errázuriz portfolio of wines but also of Seña, his personal project.

After 20 years as chief winemaker at Errázuriz and Seña, Francisco Baettig passed the baton to 32-year-old Tomás Muñoz at the end of 2023. Muñoz now leads a young, diverse team of oenologists and viticulturalists. Meanwhile, two of Chadwick’s four daughters have also taken leading roles in the business.

The Berlin Tasting

For years Chadwick had harboured a deep frustration with a global lack of recognition and appreciation of Chilean wines. He believed this lack of awareness precluded a fair assessment of Chile’s best labels.

Chadwick’s moment of epiphany arrived in the early 2000s with the idea for a tasting like the 1976 Judgement of Paris showing his flagship wines alongside 100-point Bordeaux first growths and Super Tuscans.

The tasting took place in Berlin on 23 January 2004 and was hosted by Chadwick, Decanter’s Steven Spurrier (who organised the 1976 Judgement of Paris between Californian and French wines) and René Gabriel (one of the foremost German-speaking wine critics at the time). Some 36 experts from around the world blind tasted 16 wines (six Chilean, six French and four Italian wines).

The results were both surprising and significant: Chadwick’s Viñedo Chadwick 2000 and Seña 2001 won first and second places respectively. The announcement of these results represented a landmark moment for Chilean fine wine.

A March 2024 tasting in London marked the 20th anniversary of what became known as the Berlin Tasting – and the 10th anniversary of the 10-year world tour that followed it, where new vintages achieved consistently eye-opening results.

The London event also launched the 2021 vintage of Errázuriz’s four flagship wines, Seña, Viñedo Chadwick, Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve and Kai, whose tasting notes can also be seen here.

Cabernet Sauvignon, unmistakably Chilean

The London tasting was bookmarked by journeys through two different, yet both very Chilean, Cabernet Sauvignons: Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve (Don Max) and Viñedo Chadwick.

Each wine is a tribute to a key figure in the history of Errázuriz: Don Maximiliano Errázuriz, Chadwick’s great-grandfather and founder of the original family estate; and his father, Don Alfonso Chadwick, who took over the family business in the 1980s and set the stage for his son’s success.

The four vintages of Don Max tasted at the London event showed the evolution from a single-variety Cabernet Sauvignon to a Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend. French geologist Françoise Vannier-Petit was instrumental in increasingly attuning the wine to the nuances of terroir and vintage.

It was fascinating to observe how the inaugural 1984 vintage still showed vibrancy and purity 40 years on, a testament to the quality of the selected Aconcagua Valley plots that produced it.

Chadwick wanted to plant the Viñedo Chadwick vineyard on the gravel soils of his father’s prized polo field. Don Alfonso – considered one of the greatest players in the history of Chilean polo – at first resisted the idea, but ultimately accepted it as a tribute to his dual roles as a leading athlete and visionary wine entrepreneur.

The four vintages of Viñedo Chadwick tasted showed an evolution towards elegance and filigreed aromatics. The 2014 vintage stood out, representing a point of arrival in the quest for precision, freshness and detail.

Errazuriz 2021 releases

Seña – 98-points

Viñedo Chadwick – 98-points

Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve – 96-points

Kai – 95-points

An iconic joint venture

In 1991 Eduardo was asked to spend a week showing Robert Mondavi and his wife Margrit the best terroirs and producers in the Aconcagua, Maipo, and Colchagua valleys. This meeting of like-minded visionaries marked the start of a shared quest to produce a world-class wine that could capture the essence of Chile: ‘a Bordeaux blend with a Chilean soul’.

Mondavi and Chadwick signed the joint venture in 1995 and released the first (1995) vintage of Seña – meaning ‘sign’ – two years later.

Tim Mondavi, Robert’s son was in London at the time of the 2024 London tasting, and the vibrant exchange between him and Chadwick provided insight into the project’s inception and philosophy. They said the first priority had been to find the best terroir on a self-contained site, to support the adoption of biodynamic farming practices without any risk of external contamination.

Errázuriz Wine Group took full control of Seña Wines in 2004, following the sale of Robert Mondavi Corporation to Constellation Brands. Chadwick gained control of Mondavi’s share of the business, allowing him to remain custodian of the brand and wine.

Over the years the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Seña blend has decreased in favour of more significant percentages of Carmenère and Malbec which contribute to the wine’s idiosyncrasy and sense of place.

Reinterpreting Carmenère

Kai is the outlier in the Errázuriz-Chadwick flagship portfolio. First released in 2006 with the 2005 vintage, it was created to explore the fine wine potential of Chile’s signature variety, Carmenère.

From vineyards on the gravelly and loamy soils of the third alluvial terrace of the Aconcagua River, the oldest planted in 1993, Kai (which means ‘plant’ in Mapudungun, the language of the indigenous Mapuche people) demonstrates the site’s affinity with the slow-ripening variety.

Kai celebrates Carmenère’s savouriness and elegant rusticity, reinterpreting a once hard-to-ripen variety likely to become more relevant as the climate changes. Different blending companions (Petit Verdot, Syrah and Malbec) help to define the wine’s contour, while adding fleshy depth.

Overall, the tasting showed a clear evolution towards finesse and freshness, a particularly impressive achievement in the face of climate change. The retention of vibrant acidity and moderate alcohol never compromised aromatic complexity or tannic poise.

It will be interesting to see where Muñoz takes these labels as he settles into his new role and the team explores the increasing focus on sustainability and soil research. A similar tasting a decade years from now would be a fascinating exercise.

Errázuriz and Seña: New and old vintages of these flagship Chilean labels

Wines are listed in score order

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The name ‘caballo loco’ means ‘crazy horse’ in Spanish – and there was certainly an element of craziness to Viña Valdivieso’s flagship wine, when the concept was first conceived. ‘It breaks the paradigms of premium red wines,’ admits Caballo Loco co-founder Christian Sotomayor. Instead of choosing a single red variety from a prestigious single vineyard site, the Curicó-based winery created a blend that was a patchwork of grape varieties, regions and vintages.

‘The way we put it together was accidental,’ says Sotomayor, who is Valdivieso’s import and export director. ‘Different vintages were getting held back because of the logistics of the winery. Then we started playing with the new vintages too – putting them all together. We liked the 50:50 blend. So we bottled half and kept half back, starting a sort of solera system where we used a proportion of the existing blend as a base for the next blend.’

He adds: ‘It was an expensive experiment – but it was a lucky strike. The wine was accepted everywhere and sold out in 16 months.’

Scroll down to see Julie Sheppard’s top picks from the Caballo Loco series

That first release, Caballo Loco Number 1, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir from the 1992, 1993 and 1994 vintages. It was created by winemaker Luis Simmian, who also blended Number 2.

French winemaker Philippe Debrus (now at Botalcura) took a hand in Numbers 3-5. Caballo Loco is not a yearly release – ‘on average it’s every 18 months’ says Sotomayor.

The New Zealand influence

New Zealand-born Brett Jackson (below) arrived in Chile 30 years ago and has been winemaker at Valdivieso since 2001. He worked alongside Debrus for Caballo Loco Number 6 and has created all of the subsequent blends.

‘Valdivieso was a sparkling house, so this venture into still wines was a big thing,’ remembers Jackson. ‘It’s a very unique style for Chile – and each bottling has a unique character,’ he says. ‘People are more accustomed to seeing a vintage on a label, so there’s a barrier we have to break through there,’ he says.

Jackson inherited the ‘solera’ referred to above, which is still used today. New releases combine 50% of this ‘reserve’ wine, with a blend of new vintages. Thus, the latest release, Caballo Loco Number 20, which is made with 50% Caballo Loco Number 19, will contain a percentage of wine from the original 1994 blend, now more than 30 years old.

‘The young wines are all aged separately for up to four years, rarely with more than 20% new oak,’ says Jackson. ‘My oak use has changed since we got a vapour cleaner – a steam cleaner for the barrels,’ he explains. ‘The steam cleaner gets barrels so clean. I used to throw barrels out after three or four years; now I can keep a wine in the same barrel for four years.’

He adds: ‘I don’t use US oak as I don’t like that coconut flavour.’ As for the reserve wines: ‘Some is stored in stainless steel, a little bit in concrete, also incorporating 3,000-litre foudres.’

Regional repertoire

The style of the blend has evolved over the years: from a full-bodied, rich red dominated by Cabernet or Malbec, to the current fresher style with increased acidity. In part this reflects changing international tastes and winemaking trends, but it’s also indicative of changes within the Chilean wine scene, as new varieties and new (or rediscovered) regions are being explored.

So for the first time, the Caballo Loco Number 20 blend contains Grenache and Tannat from Maule. There’s also dry-farmed Carignan from Maule (introduced for Number 17), plus the more long-running components: Syrah from Limarí, Carménère from Colchagua, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec all sourced from Curicó and a core of Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon.

Meanwhile, the Caballo Loco Grand Cru series, launched in 2010, drills down further into these specific terroirs, focusing on site selection and special vineyards. With cuvées including Limarí, Curicó, Apalta and Sagrada Familia (a sub-region of Curicó), the range gives a feel of the individual components that Jackson might use to weave the tapestry of his blend.

Caballo Loco Blanco

The latest addition to the range is Caballo Loco Blanco, an inaugural release of only 2,000 bottles. ‘It only took me seven years to put it together,’ quips Jackson, who wanted a white blend that echoed the style of the red, rather than a single-variety Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc as might be expected from Chile.

Inspiration came during a trip to Spain, when Jackson tasted aged white Riojas including Viña Tondonia and Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay. He liked the slowly oxidised but fresh style and thought he could adapt it, ‘based on what we have in Chile’.

The core of the blend is barrel-fermented Chardonnay from Limarí Valley, which spent five years in barrel, with lees stirring. But at the same time Jackson was also playing around with Moscatel from Itata. ‘We have to pay homage to those vineyards; they’re so much a part of Chilean history; it’s where Chilean winemaking started,’ he says.

‘Moscatel de Alejandria is a tough call – it has this phenolic edge. But if you put it into barrel for four years the tannins disappear and it becomes so rich, with oxidative characters.’ Jackson also experimented with Moscatel in amphora. ‘The flavours are nice, with no volatile character and it has an incredible dryness to it, which helps to off-set the sweetness of the Chardonnay,’ he explains.

The blend also includes old-vine Semillon from Curicó, which Jackson describes as ‘probably the most neglected variety we have in Chile’. Viognier, also from Curicó, adds a floral character. The blend has long, slow, gentle oxidative ageing and initially it was too rich, lacking the freshness Jackson had found in the white Riojas.

‘Working with the sparkling wines has helped me to understand acidity,’ says Jackson, who has been responsible for making Valdivieso’s sparklers since 2016. So he sought out other base wines with greater acidity. ‘A touch of Pinot Gris from Casablanca, with a really sharp acidity to it – I use it as a sparkling base. Plus a touch of Pinot Noir from Bío Bío, made as a blanc de noirs.’

Looking ahead

Jackson is already working on Caballo Loco Blanco Number 2, which will contain a proportion of Number 1, using the same solera system as for the red wines. At the Valdivieso winery, tasting samples for the second blend, he’s like a kid in a candy store; running around between barrel stacks, tanks and amphorae.

Channeling the skills of a chef, he describes the cellar as ‘my pantry’. We taste 2021 Chardonnay from Limarí in amphora, 2023 Chardonnay in barrel, Itata Moscatel in amphora (2021) and barrel (2019) and 2023 Semillon in stainless steel.

‘It’s an exciting time in Chile,’ states Jackson. ‘When I first got here we were like kids: we looked at mum and dad – aka France – for everything. Now we’re like a teenager: lots of confidence, doing our own thing. And there’s still lots to do,’ he adds.

What excites him most? ‘We’re recognising areas that we hadn’t looked at before. Now we’re playing around with vineyards in the south, Osorno, for sparkling wines,’ he says. ‘Pretty much all Semillon in Chile is old-vine – there’s been nothing new planted since the 1970s. I also work with a Cab Franc vineyard planted in 1900. The best vineyards are the ones that have survived: the vines can survive dry-farmed – old vines just ride through these hot summers.’

Caballo Loco Blanco Number 2 is pencilled in for release later in 2024. ‘It’s been really challenging but really satisfying to develop Caballo Loco Blanco. The concept behind it fits so well with Caballo Loco red. I’ll be interested to see how it evolves and what it looks like in 10 years,’ concludes Jackson.

Caballo Loco wines to try

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It was not hard for Sebastián Labbé to capture the attention of an audience drawn to a tasting of multiple vintages of Viña Santa Rita Casa Real, the wine that inscribed Chile in the fine wine firmament, worthy of a place among Decanter’s Wine Legends.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for three vintages of Santa Rita Casa Real Reserva Especial

Born in Chile and trained in New Zealand and Australia, Labbé returned to his home country in 2005, aged 25, to join Viña Carmen as Chief Winemaker. In early 2017, he was given the outstanding opportunity of leading the Ultra-Premium Sector at sister estate Viña Santa Rita (both Viña Carmen and Viña Santa Rita are part of Santa Rita Estates, under the umbrella of the Claro Group). With such privilege came the big responsibility of becoming the custodian of some of Chile’s most recognised and highly-regarded labels, not least the flagship Casa Real Reserva Especial.

Before him, only two other winemakers – Ignacio Recabarren and Cecilia Torres – had held the Casa Real helm. Alongside owner Ricardo Claro (the mastermind behind the creation of Casa Real) they defined a recognisable and consistent style that quickly turned heads both in Chile and abroad. First released in 1989, Casa Real revealed the potential of an overlooked terroir and its ability to yield a very specific expression of premium Cabernet Sauvignon.

See all Decanter tasting notes and scores for Santa Rita’s premium wines

In 2021, to celebrate the release of the 30th vintage of Casa Real, Viña Santa Rita made the wine available, for the first time, through La Place de Bordeaux. The announcement represented yet another pivotal moment in the wine’s history, consolidating its status as an iconic and pioneering Chilean label.

So far, Labbé’s tenure has been shaped by this prestigious legacy but also, and increasingly, by viticultural challenges and ambitious expansion plans. His own personal journey served as the perfect narrative thread for the insightful masterclass at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter.

A very Chilean Cabernet

Key to Casa Real’s enduring success are its consistency and classic yet characterful style, both reliant on the particular expression of Cabernet Sauvignon delivered by the terroirs of Alto Jahuel. Labbé delved into the three key variables that define this idiosyncrasy: geology, climate and viticultural choices.

A complex accumulation of alluvial sediments deposited strata in different ways across the slopes of Alto Jahuel, with distinct textures dynamically layered at variable depths. This creates a great deal of diversity within each vineyard, producing interesting if minute variations in fruit character. The heavier soils of the Carneros Viejos block, planted in the 1970s, are responsible for the wine’s more structural components, while the more gravelly Población, a block planted in the 1980s, adds finesse and aromatic nuance. All blocks benefit from the long dry growing season, with cooling night winds from the Andes causing a wide temperature diurnal range. Cool nights help to preserve a fine acidity, keep alcohol levels in check and, says Labbé, shape the distinct aromatic profile of Cabernet Sauvignon that has become synonymous with Alto Jahuel and Casa Real.

Combined, Carneros Viejos, Población and recently planted, smaller sites – all ungrafted – make up the nearly 20 hectares that supply fruit for Casa Real. Plans to plant another 20 are underway. These will use plant material from massal selections from the existing plots. Labbé is not sure, however, if all of them will be on their own rootstock.

Grafted experiments delivered promising results, questioning the need for orthodoxy. Although he does recognise that much of Casa Real’s aromatic definition and purity of fruit might be a byproduct of own-root systems, other considerations – such as ever diminishing water resources – might need to come into play.

Blending to perfection

If the different plots within the Casa Real vineyards deliver such nuanced aspects of Cabernet Sauvignon, carving – and remaining faithful – to a defined style requires mindful and masterful blending. For the masterclass, Labbé brought with him barrel samples from the 2023 vintage to illustrate the wide palette of components, from separately vinified plots, at his disposal. These also offered a glimpse of the ‘epic blending sessions’ held each year, in Bordeaux, alongside consultant Eric Boissenot.

The filigreed aromatics of the Población sites and the more robust structure of the Carneros Viejos sections became apparent in the barrel samples tasted. It’s not hard to see how, upon blending, these create a balanced matrix, in which the tannic framework of Carneros holds the vibrant and perfumed details of the Población fruit. Interestingly, a sample from a more recently-planted plot (Carneros Sur, 2015) had a particular balance of its own, promising great things from new and future plantings.

The tasting closed with a selection of three vintages: 2020, 2012 and 1994 (see tasting notes below). The latter showcased the somewhat overlooked longevity of Casa Real. While ready to drink, it still displays bags of finesse, freshness and the lingering herbal savouriness which is so characteristic of Alto Jahuel Cabernet Sauvignon.

Looking ahead

Winemaking at Santa Rita has so far been, first and foremost, a way of harnessing the quality of the Cabernet fruit that goes into Casa Real. Hand-harvested grapes are gently basket pressed and vinified in more than 25 small batches (some through spontaneous fermentation). The wine is bottled without filtration and clarification.

Is this purist approach – and the recognisable style it facilitates – being questioned by climate change? Labbé explained that, to preserve balance and character, the focus will be on strategic viticultural decisions, such as harvesting earlier and increasing the use of cover crops.

He is already making minor tweaks in the cellar though: the use of new oak has been toned down (75%, down from 100%) and there’s a chance future vintages might go through gentle clarification, which Labbé believes might help the Cabernet Sauvignon fruit to shine even more. ‘I want to remain respectful to the heritage and style I had the privilege of inheriting,’ he concludes. ‘All changes are done to preserve the character that has made Casa Real such an iconic wine.’

DFWE 2023: Three vintages of Santa Rita Casa Real Reserva Especial

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Emily Faulconer has stepped into the role of Francisco Baettig, who is retiring as technical director in order to focus on his personal project, Vinos Baettig, but who will remain in a consultancy role with Viñedos Familia Chadwick. 

Faulconer was most recently chief winemaker at Chile’s Viña Carmen, and has been replaced in that position by Ana María Cumsille.

Baettig: reflecting on two decades of great headway

There’s no doubting that Francisco Baettig has moved the dial of Chile’s wine industry during his 20 year tenure at Viñedos Familia Chadwick.

Since his first appointment as winemaker of Caliterra in 2003, he went onto oversee the entire portfolio – which includes Errázuriz, Viñedo Chadwick, Seña, Caliterra and Arboleda – and has been at the forefront of changing the style and reputation of Chile’s premium wines. 

‘When I started, it was a very different situation in the wine industry in Chile,’ said Baettig.

‘The industry was largely focused on high volume wines, rather than high-end wines. In the past two decades, our focus shifted from volume to premium wines… and a focus on the viticulture and winemaking to understand the terroir and interpret place.’

Baettig played a fundamental role in the image of Chile’s premium wine styles, pushing away from the more opulent, ripe wines of the early 2000s towards more elegance and freshness.

He masterminded the development of the impressive Las Pizarras vineyard in Aconcagua Costa, which helped put premium Chilean Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the map.

He said, ‘I believe the development of Las Pizarras was very important, it really helped change the perception and quality potential of these Burgundian varieties in Chile — opening the door to more balanced, linear and mineral wines with less oak.’

Baettig’s other great coup was obtaining the first perfect 100-point score for Chile — with Viñedo Chadwick in 2016. The Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon has gone on to receive several 100-point scores since, catapulting it into the fine wine stratosphere, along with Seña.

‘These recognitions were not only very important for me and for the team, but for Chile,’ Baettig said. ‘Chile needed to play in the big leagues and I am very happy and proud to have been part of this development.

‘The past 20 years have been an unbelievable journey — starting from a very different reality in Chile to today’s reality, in which the iconic wines from the group are among the best in the world.’

Eduardo Chadwick, owner of the family winery and group, paid tribute to Baettig’s work. ‘We are most thankful of Francisco’s contribution over his 20-plus years with us. He has led our team of viticulturists and winemakers with great skill, ensuring that our wines have become more elegant and refined over the years.

‘His winemaking approach has always been to bring a blend of passion, experience, boldness, and humility to his work. We are equally delighted that he will stay with us as our consultant in the future to continue mentoring our team as we strive ahead in our pursuit of excellence.’

Baettig will remain as a consultant for the foreseeable future, but will now have more time to focus on his own personal project, Vinos Baettig, which he started with business partner Carlos de Carlos over a decade ago planting vines in Traiguén, Malleco, in southern Chile.

Since launching the first 2018 vintage on the market during the pandemic in 2020, Vinos Baettig is now sold in 25 countries with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Traiguén, and most recently an old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon from Maule. 

‘Vinos Baettig was my dream, and it really is my baby,’ he said. ‘It has been a very tough time in the wine industry in the past couple of years, but I’m very grateful that the Baettig wines are doing very well and I am thankful to those who trust and like the wines.

‘I hope to continue to contribute to Chile and the image of premium Chilean wine through Vinos Baettig, too.’

Faulconer: Taking on the mantle at Viñedos Familia Chadwick

Now assuming one of the most influential winemaker roles in the country, Faulconer’s hotly anticipated appointment as technical director sees her return to the group, following her time as chief winemaker of Arboleda from 2015 to 2017.

As well as overseeing the wines of the group as technical director, she will be chief winemaker for the top-tier Viñedo Chadwick and Seña wines.

‘Viñedos Familia Chadwick has been a real pioneer in creating a space for Chilean fine wines in the world, and it is an honour to rejoin the team and their legacy,’ said Faulconer.

‘We already know that we have really great terroir in Maipo and Aconcagua, but we are still relatively young as a fine wine country compared to Europe.

‘I am excited to be able to focus in great detail with such an ambitious and dedicated producer to work towards taking the wines to their very maximum terroir expression and potential.’

Faulconer’s impressive career to date has seen her work across Chile’s wine regions, from the country’s highest-altitude commercial vineyard at Viñedos de Alcohuaz through to the riverside vineyards and wines of Maquis in Colchagua.

Her most recent post, as chief winemaker for Carmen since 2017, gave her the opportunity to work with a diverse range of regions and valleys across Chile.

Faulconer brought notable accolades to the wines of Carmen, elevating Carmen Gold to become one of the most sought-after Cabernet Sauvignon wines of Maipo.

She also garnered much critical acclaim for her biologically aged, old-vine Semillon and Cinsault in the innovative Carmen DO range, and for launching the premium Delanz range.

‘We are also thrilled to have Emily back at Viñedos Familia Chadwick with special focus as head winemaker for Seña and Viñedo Chadwick,’ said Eduardo Chadwick.

‘She is brilliant, full of energy and passion to take on the mantle. She is also a great team leader and we are very confident she will take our wines to new levels of success.’

Within her team is Tomás Muñóz, chief winemaker of Viña Errázuriz, who was her former assistant winemaker at Carmen until joining Errázuriz in 2021; and Alberto Eckholl, chief winemaker of Viña Caliterra. 

Cumsille: Taking on new challenges at Carmen

Replacing Faulconer at Carmen is Ana María Cumsille, whose expansive experience in Chilean wine has ranged from head winemaker of Indomita (1999 – 2001) in Casablanca to Altair (2002 – 2013) in Cachapoal, and more recently Viña Cucha Cucha (2015 – 2020) in Itata. 

Since 2020, Cumsille has been concentrating on her eponymous personal project, working with small growers and old vines in Itata, which she will continue alongside managing Carmen. 

‘I am really excited about my new position as Carmen brings together many of my winemaking experiences — giving me the opportunity to return to making premium wines, with wines like Carmen Gold and Delanz, but also keep working with small producers and in Itata with the DO range,’ Cumsille said.

‘I love the liberty and freedom to do different things that I have with Carmen, where my imagination can flourish. It will be a great challenge, but one I look forward to.’

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There are no easy vintages – and that was especially true in Chile this year. The widespread drought that has been affecting the country for several years – and the forecast of a dry and hot summer – indicated that 2023 would be a challenging year.

But in mid-January the situation dramatically worsened, with voracious fires in Maule, Ñuble, Itata and Bío Bío, where more than 50,000ha of forests were devastated. The fire took towns, vineyards, wineries and at least 24 human lives in its wake. A tragedy.

The final balance estimates that 600 small wine producers were affected, with losses of some 470ha of vines. Most of those vines were centenarian and an irreplaceable part of Chile’s ancestral wine heritage.

Meanwhile, what was left standing was overtaken by smoke and ash. Producers today are evaluating the effect of smoke taint on the wines they have made. They are also looking to the future, in hope of preserving the winemaking traditions of a region with five centuries of history.

Record heatwaves

The high summer temperatures made 2023 one of the hottest vintages of the last 70 years. This meant that viticultural teams had to work particularly hard to determine the right time to harvest the grapes. However, beyond the hard data and readings from the meteorological stations, this vintage is turning out to be more nuanced than expected, with each valley behaving differently.

‘I’ve never seen so many variations in the same year. The vineyards on the coast had a quite different year to those in the Andes and the Central Valley, which are a long way from the sea,’ said Marcelo Papa, winemaker and technical director at Concha y Toro.

‘While in Limarí we had fewer degree days and plenty of cloud, in Maipo we experienced higher temperatures for sustained periods and the harvest had to be brought forward 10 days,’ he added.

Best to start at the beginning, however, and Héctor Rojas, agricultural engineer at Tabalí, is a great help with that. ‘The 2022 winter was especially cold with more rainfall, as much as 140mm in Limari – the average is between 60 and 80mm – and 380mm in Maipo,’ he explained.

‘Then we had a cold spring that notably held back some of the phenological development, together with vigorous leaf growth thanks to the wet soils after the rainy winter. But, very abruptly, from the end of December onwards and throughout January, we saw a sustained rise in temperatures that shook the plants out of their lethargy and rapidly accelerated ripening. It was a year that kept you on your toes.’

Shrinking harvest windows

Because of the hot summer temperatures, the harvest windows shrunk. Some varieties were ripening at the same time, when generally this occurs weeks apart. Of course, this presented a logistical challenge and good coordination between the teams in the field and in the winery was crucial.

Viviana Navarrete, chief winemaker at Viña Leyda, explained: ‘In the Leyda Valley, the harvest began slowly, delayed by 12 to 14 days compared to the 2022 season. It was difficult to get the grapes to build up enough Brix. Sugar accumulation in the grapes was slow, accompanied by high acidity that remained until the end.’

‘The Sauvignon Blanc ripened late. There was a very short window, so we had to act fast in the final days of March when the temperatures were high and the Brix accumulation curve accelerated,’ she continued. ‘There was a lack of rainfall but the challenges in the vineyard remained because we had high humidity resulting in a bout of powdery mildew at the beginning of the season and then isolated pockets of Botrytis cinerea.’

Every producer seems to have their own account of how the season developed and its eventual results. But they all agree that it was a hot year in which harvests began and ended as much as three weeks earlier than normal in the inner valleys. By the end of April, most producers had brought their grapes into the winery and fermentation had begun.

Final verdicts

In the Cachapoal Andes, Gabriel Mustakis, head winemaker at Viña San Pedro and the VSPT wine group, reported: ‘Although we expected the grapes and wines to be affected by the high temperatures, we were very pleasantly surprised. We managed to naturally get the grapes to ripen early, which allowed us to harvest earlier, resulting in good balance, mild alcohol, good acidity and elegant, vibrant tannins. In general, it was a very varied, interesting and attractive harvest.’

Francisco Baettig, winemaker at Errazuriz, shared his final verdict. ‘Nationally we’re seeing lower yields due to frosts in Casablanca and loss of fruit from dehydration in the warmer areas, as well as the forest fires in Itata and Bío Bío. Speaking for ourselves, we had a fairly early harvest with good volume and quality,’ he said. Some figures show that the 2023 harvest saw yields 15% lower than average.

Aurelio Montes of Viña Montes, meanwhile, shared his predictions for the kind of wines we can expect from 2023. ‘This year was quite unique as the reds have shown excellent colour but are also very mild. The aromatic profile can be described as rich ripeness with very few green flavours. Which is to say that so far it’s been a great year – something I didn’t expect, to be honest – but that’s the wonderful thing about oenology. One plus one doesn’t always have to equal two. For the whites, I’d say it was a year of low alcohol and very fruity expression.’

An overview

In all, a brief overview tells us that 2023 augurs well for whites from the coastal areas that enjoyed the cooler, cloudier climate. Expectations for the Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays are particularly high, although in some areas such as Limarí the Pinot Noirs are also promising great things.

In the interior and Andes regions, the heat forcibly brought the harvest forward for the most prominent red varieties in Chile – Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Cabernet Franc – and this suggests rich, easy-going wines with good freshness and balance.

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Dirceu Vianna Junior MW tasted 78 wines with 3 Outstanding and 11 Highly recommended.

Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: Panel tasting scores

78 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 11

Recommended 28

Commended 15

Fair 18

Poor 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 100% Sauvignon Blanc still white wines in the price range £10-£30 in the UK

Let’s start with the positives. Six of the 14 wines scoring 90 points or above here came from San Antonio or Leyda – regions that earned plaudits from this tasting. Judge Ben Gubbins also noted the ‘promise’ offered by Osorno in the south.

In general, the diversity of origins in the top-scoring wines was notable in this tasting, with quality to be found from Atacama and Limarí in the north to Malleco and Osorno in the deep south. The latter regions tended to deliver understated aromas yet intense palate profiles, while Atacama and Limarí majored on peppery, almost saline characters and great vibrancy.

The best Sauvignons from coastal terroirs such as Leyda, San Antonio, Casablanca and Aconcagua combined aromatic lift with structure and layers of flavour.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting

What didn’t find favour with judges were the bland styles of Sauvignon emanating from the Central Valley. ‘Why bother keeping on making Sauvignon in the Central Valley?!’ bemoaned Gubbins, while Dirceu Vianna Junior MW identified Curicó as a particular culprit in this regard.

Stylistically, the wines fell into three broad camps. There were the neutral styles mentioned above – Sauvignon for Pinot Grigio lovers, you might say, gluggable yet forgettable. Then there was a raft of zingy, tangy wines, clearly picked early and majoring on freshness, many of which ultimately proved lean and simplistic. Finally, the best wines: picked neither too early nor too late, with freshness and complexity, and often some ambition evident in the winemaking (for example, use of concrete eggs, discreet oak or intelligent work with the lees).

‘There were some good wines,’ was Vianna’s ultimate verdict, ‘from people who showed ambition, with lower yields or judicious oak.’ Gubbins commented: ‘Some producers are overcompensating, picking early for freshness but it can often prove sour, tart and shrill.’ Judges also picked up on the ability of the best wines to age and develop. ‘If the wines are made well, they can age nicely,’ said Vianna, who was ‘pleasantly surprised by some of the older vintages’. Gubbins added that wineries should consider library releases for top wines.

See all 42 wines from the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting

Given all of this, it’s clear that finding a good producer is the key when it comes to getting the best out of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon is Chile’s second most planted wine grape, so it’s inevitable there will be variability in quality. As Vianna commented: ‘There were a lot of ordinary wines.’

Consistency across the board is clearly not a feature of this category, with too many bland or simplistic wines. In short, it’s worth doing your homework to find quality and value.

It’s clear that improvements need to be made in the engine room of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Yet those doing a laudable job are showing the way – proving that with good plant material in well-suited, cool sites and sensitive, ambitious winemaking, Sauvignon Blanc can shine in Chile. That this tasting was an improvement over the last such tasting in 2018 is a sign that progress is possible.

Chilean Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting scores

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. An awarded broadcaster and writer with a focus on Chilean wine, he is co-creator and presenter of wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine on winemasters.tv and, with his wife Susie Barrie MW, he co-hosts the chart-topping Wine Blast podcast.

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant and educator. Moving to the UK from Brazil in 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors, becoming a Master of Wine in 2008, then co-authoring the awarded Portuguese- language book Conheça Vinhos (‘Understanding Wine’, Editora Senac).

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Appropriately, the capital of Chile sits right in the middle of the country, flanked by the Andes and the Chilean coastal range. As such, it often serves merely as a stopover for those who fly into the city on their way to other destinations, such as Easter Island, the Atacama Desert or the Patagonias. However, those who give this bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis a bit more of their time, will discover that Santiago is worthy of a longer stay.

Like many cities, Santiago’s eating out scene suffered during and post-pandemic. Many top restaurants closed permanently or reopened with different menus and chefs. But there are still gems to be found, as the selection below shows.

From the hip foodie neighbourhood of Vitacura and trendy Barrio Italia, to the larger, upscale, gastronomically focused areas of Providencia and Los Condes, wine lovers are rarely further than a 15-minute Uber ride from a good restaurant or wine bar in Santiago.

Chile is blessed with 6,435km of coastline, so it should come as no surprise that there are plenty of seafood-focused restaurants to choose from in Santiago. Meanwhile, close proximity to Peru has loaned a distinct Peruvian flavour to many of its dishes. From ceviche to oysters and shellfish sourced from the chilly waters off the southern coast, pescatarians will find plenty of fresh sea-to-table offerings on local menus.

Top Santiago destinations for wine lovers

Baco

A buzzy, relaxed wine bar and restaurant set in a large space with expansive outdoor patio seating. Service is friendly and unobtrusive, while the vibe allows guests to enjoy themselves without constant interruption from overly attentive service. The wine list features 200-plus bottles and a by-the-glass roster of around 25 regularly rotating selections, sourced from boutique, esoteric and micro producers (Casa Marin, Ungrafted, Calyptra) – plus a few strategically curated French options to complement the restaurant’s blend of Basque-Occitan and Spanish cuisine. The menu features plenty of fish alongside ‘comfort food’ and an excellent choice of French cheeses. Don’t miss the salmon tartare, chipirones (baby squid) a la plancha, angulas (baby eel, a Basque delicacy), grilled merluza (hake) ‘a la Vasca’ or the cassoulet. The results are simple but perfectly executed, with a fantastic selection of small plates and sharing dishes on offer.

• Address: Av. Nueva de Lyon 113, Providencia
• Open: Mon-Sun 12.30pm-11pm

Barrica 94

Located in the Los Trapenses neighbourhood outside the city, this modern wine bar can be found in a high-end outdoor shopping centre. Inside it’s spacious and airy, with a polished bistro vibe, lots of two- and four-top tables and an expansive patio area. The wine selection includes around 15 different by-the-glass options and over 250 bottles with a strong Chilean bias. Expect to find plenty of small, boutique local producers (Viña Garces Silva, Casa Marin, Viña Maturana) in addition to larger or more iconic brands (Undurraga, Odjfell, Montes, De Martino). The menu features a mix of small plates, sharing dishes, entrées and salads. Highlights are the slow-braised short ribs, handmade pasta topped with applewood smoked salmon, and the locos or Chilean ‘abalone’ (actually a species of sea snail) served with homemade mayonnaise and salmon roe.

• Address: Av. José Alcalde Delano 10533, local 1508, Lo Barnechea
• Open: Mon-Sun 1pm-11pm

Bocanáriz

Situated in the upscale, popular neighbourhood of Lastarria in Santiago’s Bellas Artes district, Bocanáriz is a bustling wine bar with indoor and outdoor seating, plus one of the most extensive by-the-glass selections of Chilean wines in the city. Offering a diverse, rotating list of more than 300 bins, the venue also pays homage to the country’s viticulture via a special dining room decorated with portraits of prominent Chilean winemakers. Wines by the glass include selections from up-and-coming producers and special projects from established names (Pedro Parra, Tabali, La Causa del Itata). Trending regions such as Itata and Limarí feature alongside well-known brands from the Maule Valley, Malleco, Maipo and Cachapoal. The menu offers a great mix of small plates, sharing dishes and salads. Be sure to try the ceviches and tartares as well as the bocaditos de papas bravas a la Bocanáriz (the kitchen’s take on patatas bravas).

• Address: José Victorino Lastarria 276
• Open: Mon-Wed 1pm-12am; Thu-Sat 1pm-12.30am

Dondoh

Located in the Nueva Costanera area of the up-and-coming gastronomic mecca of Vitacura, this Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant is known for its signature cocktails, phenomenal raw fish dishes, ‘a la brasa’ grills and beautiful presentation. Standouts include the ceviche and rare fish tartares, smoked chicken, and the aubergine a la brasa with miso-togarashi sauce. Dishes are designed for sharing, and diners can see their food being prepared in the open kitchen, bar and grill area. The wine list is robust, with a selection of more than 100 bins, many of which are available by the glass on request. Chilean labels make up the lion’s share, so look out for boutique names such as Atomo, Garcés Silva and Calyptra alongside larger brands including Emiliana, Concha y Toro, Odjfell, VIK and Montes. Wines from Argentina, Spain, Italy, France and New Zealand are also represented.

• Address: Av. Nueva Costanera 3969, Vitacura
• Open: Mon-Sat 1pm-10pm

El Fogón de Momo

Famed for serving the best aged Argentinian beef in Santiago, El Fogón de Momo is an unassuming restaurant in the city’s Los Condes district. Cooked over quebracho charcoal from Argentina – which creates a more consistent and long-burning fire – these premium cuts are mouthwateringly flavourful and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Elsewhere, the menu features relatively simple fare, made with ultra-fresh ingredients: avocado, palm heart and tomato salad, grilled seafood, scalloped or fried potatoes and so on. The wine list is almost exclusively Chilean, with around two dozen bottles and a few options by the glass (primarily affordable, quaffable blends from larger, commercial labels). The more interesting offerings include a good choice of beefy reds including a handful of Carménères, Carignans, Cabernet Sauvignons and Bordeaux blends from the Maipo Valley. It’s usually easy to grab a table for lunch, but dinner reservations are strongly recommended – El Fogón de Momo is an extremely popular spot for local gourmands in the know.

• Address: Condell 806, Providencia
• Open: Mon-Fri 12.30pm-12am; Sat 12.30pm-12.30am; Sun 12.30pm-6pm

La Cava del Barrio

It may be no larger than a master bedroom closet but the shelves of this tiny wine shop in Barrio Italia hold a phenomenal selection of bottles from boutique and under-the-radar producers (Jardinero, Inocente) that you are unlikely to see in larger establishments representing big-name growers and brands. While the shop carries bottles from the likes of Casas del Bosque, De Martino’s Itata project and Bodegas RE, the bias is towards those that farm organically/biodynamically or make natural wines. Manager and sommelier Javier Chandia knows a great deal about Chile’s wineries and winemakers, and is happy to share his knowledge and guidance to help customers select the right bottles to take home.

• Address: Av. Italia 1449, local 2, Providencia
• Open: Tue-Sun 12pm-8pm

La Mar

If you need a break from wine tasting and fancy a proper Pisco Sour, head down to the hip, foodie district of Vitacura, where the star of the show is La Mar (part of a group owned by celebrated Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio). The bartenders here can produce their own signature versions of the emblematic Peruvian/Chilean cocktail as well as classic traditional mixes. La Mar itself is chic, on-trend and open-plan with floor-to-ceiling windows all round, distinctive turquoise chairs and colourful blackboards advertising food and wine specials; alternatively bag a seat outside if you’re partial to a spot of al fresco people-watching. As the name suggests, the restaurant is renowned for its seafood, with creative riffs on ceviche as the outright winners. Alternatively, you might be tempted by the deep-fried fish with yucca and plantain chips, an anticuchos skewer of grilled octopus on chimichurri potatoes or one of the Japanese fusion ideas (sushi rolls, sashimi etc.). To match the food, there’s a small but respectable list of Chilean and international wines from small and large producers.

• Address: Av. Nueva Costanera 4076, Vitacura
• Open: Mon-Wed 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm; Thu-Sat 1pm-3.30 pm, 8pm-12am; Sun 1pm-4pm

Les Dix Vins

Located in Providencia, just a few minutes’ walk from Baco (see above), Les Dix Vins is a wine bar/shop where it’s not uncommon to be seated next to local Chilean winemakers (many of whom live in Santiago). The menu is a global mixed bag featuring classics such as confit duck alongside a few Asian fusion dishes, salads and French cheese plates. The bar’s diverse wine selection (400+ bins) is split equally between Chile and the ‘rest of the world’ (with France claiming pole position). Larger established brands such as Odjfell, De Martino and VIK are well-represented, while smaller labels include Kofkeche (Malleco). The by-the-glass line-up is more concise, offering around 10 ‘still’ recommendations in addition to one sparkling, a dessert wine and a couple of fortified wines – primarily from larger, established brands such as Miguel Torres and Viña Aquitania. Owner and sommelier Juan Ignacio Pavón is passionate, knowledgeable, and generous with his time – offering customers as little or as much guidance and information as they require.

• Address: Av. Vitacura 2935, local 105, Las Condes
• Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12am (kitchen 1pm-4pm, 6pm-11pm)

Olam

The latest venture from Spanish chef Sergio Barroso (following the permanent closure of 040 Restaurant), Olam was listed in ‘Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants’ in 2022. Barroso, whose experience includes a stint at El Bulli in Spain, runs the restaurant jointly with his Chilean wife Maricarmen, and between them they offer a distinctive dining experience. The simple, serene and casual environment, paired with friendly but quiet and unobtrusive service, allows guests to focus on the food (and each other) without sensory overload. The menu is a love letter to both Chilean seafood and Barroso’s Spanish roots, with the emphasis on top-drawer ingredients. Whether it’s carpaccio of fresh fish topped with creamy aïoli, delicate grilled baby squid with bacalhao (salt cod) pil pil, or rare black oysters from Chiloé garnished with caviar from Patagonia, the execution and flavours are flawless. The drinks list leans heavily towards innovative and natural wines, such as vintage skin-contact whites, orange wines and high-altitude bottles from remote cool-climate areas. Look out for eclectic producers and regions that are just starting to gain attention such as Itata, Chiloé Island and Limarí.

• Address: Carmencita 45, El Golf, Las Condes
• Open: Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

The Santiago Wine Club

Another fantastic little wine shop, located in the Lastarria neighbourhood of the Bellas Artes district, just a few blocks from Santiago’s iconic Républica Independiente del Pisco (Independent Republic of Pisco) and Bocanáriz wine bar (see above). The wine selection is predominantly Chilean and offers a good mix of small, boutique and/or lesser-known producers (Creole, Garage Wine Company, Tinto de Rulo) alongside larger, high-profile brands such as VIK, Montes and Morande. More importantly, the staff are knowledgeable, passionate and helpful.

• Address: Rosal 386, Barrio Lastarria
• Open: Mon-Sat 11am- 8pm; Sun 12pm-3.30pm

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Is Syrah wine’s greatest chameleon? There are certainly few other varieties in South America that give us such a great illustration of the continent’s diverse wine regions and myriad styles.

Chile is undoubtedly the home of South America’s best Syrah wines, even though Argentina has much more of it planted, at 11,500ha (INV data to December 2021) compared with Chile’s 6,755ha (SAG, 2021). Chile’s plethora of cool climates along the coast certainly gives it the edge in the South American Syrah scene.

Scroll down to see Amanda Barnes’ tasting notes and scores for 20 stunning South American Syrahs

If there’s one Syrah producer I would tell you to hunt down, it’s Matetic.

From its biodynamic vineyards on the granite coastal hills of Casablanca and San Antonio, the wines throughout the range (starting with Corralillo, the 2018 currently £15.15 at Vinvm) overdeliver on the price point. They ooze confidence with this variety, which can be done so well in this part of coastal Chile.

Crossing Continents

But you’ll also find good coastal Syrah throughout Chile, spanning the saline wines of the Atacama desert and austere wines from chalky Limarí in the north down to the rich intensity of Colchagua’s dry-farmed coast south of Santiago.

Further east, Uruguay’s coast, too, has some gems, including Alto de la Ballena’s Cetus Syrah from its schist slopes in Maldonado, Pisano’s structured Syrah from Canelones and Bracco Bosca’s refreshing Syrah aged in amphorae.

Sadly none of them makes it into the UK yet. That’s also the story with a lot of Brazil’s better Syrah from the higher altitude regions of Serra da Mantiqueira, where the winter harvest offers a cooler, more concentrated expression.

Argentina’s best Syrah wines all play with altitude, too. Skirting the Andes, and due west of Córdoba, San Juan may be Argentina’s powerhouse of Syrah, but you need to move up into the foothills to get beyond the bottomless ocean of quaffing wine there.

Similarly, the most exciting Syrah wines from Mendoza, a short way south from San Juan, are at high altitude in the Uco Valley, and from Salta, way up in Argentina’s north, they are found at the heights of the Calchaquí valleys.

Chile’s high-altitude wine regions also offer some impressive Syrah highlights. Syrah from northerly Elqui is particularly notable, where savoury notes of smoked meat, black olive and spices abound.

The more opulent and perfumed styles of the valley floors of central Chile are still prevalent, but there’s a greater diversity of more refreshing, juicier styles that come to the fore, too – especially at the value end of the scale.

South American Syrah is definitely one of the most engaging categories to take a dive into, even if its pool in the international market is still limited.

Considering that the continent has only been taking Syrah seriously for barely a decade, there’s impressive ageability, personality and diversity to be found within this young chameleonic variety.

I’m sure we’ll see more innovation, especially in Syrah blends, in the years to come; though for now, there’s already plenty to indulge your inner Syrah geek!

See 20 top South American Syrahs

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Fierce wildfires in Chile have led to at least 25 deaths and destroyed more than 2,000 homes, according to government figures. More than 400,000 hectares of land have been burned, with damage visible on NASA satellite images.

Julio Alonso, executive director for Wines of Chile North America, said forest fires in El Maule, Ñuble, Bío Bío, and Araucanía were affecting thousands of people’s lives and sources of work, including in wine.

Some small producers have lost wineries and houses, he said, although he added the emergency was not yet wholly under control and so a full assessment of damage was still difficult.

Itata Valley, home to some of Chile’s oldest vines, was one of the worst-hit areas.

Chile’s Institute of Agricultural Development (INDAP) recently promised expert advice for Itata Valley winemakers, adding 692 grape growers were known to have been affected by fires.

Before that, the ministry of agriculture said 291 hectares of vines had been destroyed in the Ñuble region, which includes Itata Valley. Other crops have also suffered damage in several regions.

‘Everything burned’

Itata-based producer Leonidas Fernández, owner of his ‘Leoncio’ wines project, told Decanter: ‘I make and store my wines in a friend’s winery. The fire passed directly over the winery and everything burned.’

He lost 8,900 litres of wine. ‘This was all I had,’ he said, adding, ‘almost 70% of the vineyards I work with were affected by fire.’

He said he will go to Catalonia in Spain this August to make wine with friends. ‘It is my dream to make wine in Chile and in Spain, so the only way is to fill yourself with faith, energy and keep working hard.’

Aid initiatives

A GoFundMe campaign launched by Wines of Chile in the US has sought to raise money to help save pre-phylloxera vineyards in Itata Valley, particularly in the hard-hit Gualirihue DO.

Wines of Chile has also announced aid initiatives to help producers affected, including advice on fire and possible smoke impact in partnership with international experts. Alonso said the trade body was also coordinating efforts with authorities.

Experts affiliated to University of California Davis (UC Davis) were among those offering specialist advice, said INDAP and Wines of Chile.

Aurelio Montes, Wines of Chile president, said, ‘This massive tragedy certainly requires the support of all who are in a position to do so.’

Wines of Chile said those wishing to donate to the recovery of wineries, vineyards and homes can also send money to a Banco de Chile current account in Chilean pesos (current account No 44524-10, rut 65.829.010-k, email: oficina@winesofchile.org) or in US dollars (current account USD No 05-000-33953-03). 

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Wildfires have destroyed wineries and scorched vineyards in south-central Chile after temperatures reached a record 40°C (104°F) over the weekend. More than 20 people have died and 1,500 others are seeking refuge after the wildfires burned down hundreds of homes in the region.

Three regions – Araucanía, Biobío and Ñuble – have declared a state of emergency. The National Service for Disaster Prevention and Response is currently battling to put out the fires.

Official government data revealed that the wildfires have already burned more than 40,000ha in the area. Record temperatures and strong winds have made it difficult to stop the blazes from spreading.

Interior minister Carolina Tohá said the fires provide another wake-up call about the impacts of the climate emergency. ‘Chile is one of the countries with the highest vulnerability to climate change, and this isn’t theory but rather practical experience,’ she said.

Sixteen people have died in Biobío, five in La Araucanía and one in Ñuble, while more than 500 are injured, according to Tohá. President Gabriel Boric has appealed for international aid to help contain the wildfires.

The harvest is fast approaching in the Bío Bío Valley and Itata Valley wine producing regions, which contain some of Chile’s oldest vines.

Anita Jackson, UK director at Wines of Chile, told Decanter: ‘It’s an incredibly sad and concerning situation and our thoughts are with everyone in the regions that are affected by the fires.

‘These regions are the home of Chile’s traditional viticulture and where the oldest vines are located that produce very distinctive wines, made mainly by boutique wineries and growers. We are monitoring the situation closely as reports of those impacted in the region are increasing.’

Leoncio Fernández, owner of Leoncio Wines in the Itata Valley, said he was left ‘speechless’ by the destruction to his winery.

Another producer, Altos del Valle in the Bío Bío Valley, reported that its winery had been completely destroyed. ‘But we will rise, entrepreneurs are like that – the only way is up,’ said the team.

Itata Expediciones, a company that provides gastronomic tours of the region, said in a statement: ‘What a pity we have in our souls. A lot of help will be needed for our friends. It hits us hard to see so many dreams turn to ashes, but these goats are big and warriors – nothing will stop them.’

The current crisis has brought back memories of the 2017 wildfires, which burned more than 100 vineyards in what was described as the ‘worst forestry disaster in the nation’s history’.

Andrés Meneses, manager of the Chilean Wood Corporation, said: ‘Right now, we are facing worse weather conditions than in 2017, when the big fires broke out.’

Spain, the US, Argentina, Ecuador, Brazil and Venezuela have pledged to help, while neighbouring Argentina is sending 64 firefighters, a forest fire pump truck and a Chinook helicopter.

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An oasis of calm, charm and fine wine awaits at this historic property set on the world-renowned Santa Rita Wine Estate.

Situated at the foot of the Andes Mountains in Alto Jahuel in the Maipo Valley – an area known for producing some of Chile’s best Cabernet Sauvignons – Casa Real occupies a privileged position just 40 minutes southeast of the country’s capital Santiago.

Founded in 1880 by businessman Domingo Fernández Concha, Santa Rita is one of the oldest and longest-standing wineries in Chile.

The estate’s original hacienda, now a luxury boutique hotel, was Domingo’s summerhouse and came adorned with a Neo-Gothic chapel (both of which were designed by German architect Theodor Burchard) as well as 40 hectares of stunning park land (one of the largest and best preserved in central Chile) designed by leading French landscape gardener Guillaume Renner.

Both the 19-century, Pompeian-style building and the sprawling, luscious green gardens filled with ancient sequoia and palm trees, flowers, herb gardens, boxwood labyrinths, a lagoon, a pair of black-necked swans, exquisite sculptures and Roman baths, were declared National Historic Monuments in 1972.

The estate was bought by Ricardo Claro in 1980 and the manor house 10 years later. The building was classically restored respecting its aristocratic history and keeping a romantic beauty, eventually opening as Hotel Casa Real in the mid 1990s.

Freshly updated in 2017, guests can choose from one of 16 beautiful and airy en-suite bedrooms, all featuring soaring ceilings, comfy beds and sumptuous furniture. Each offers a beautiful view of the park or inner courtyard. The hotel also offers an outdoor pool, sauna and gym.

Reminiscent of a bygone era, the hotel is adorned with original fittings, antique furniture, oil paintings and textiles filling the entry hall, salons, dining room, billiard room and the inner colonnade.

Peace and tranquility can be found on the terrace overlooking the gardens and also in the private chapel next door which features Norman arches and stained-glass windows as well as beautifully painted walls and vaulted ceiling. It plays host to picture-perfect weddings and concerts throughout the year.

The hotel’s restaurant offers both indoor and alfresco dining options using the finest seasonal ingredients, some of which are harvested from the estate itself. In addition, guests also have the option to eat in the renowned Doña Paula restaurant reached via a short walk through the gardens.

The restaurant is located inside the late 18th-century colonial home of Doña Paula Jaraquemada who gave shelter to 120 patriots fighting for the Independence of Chile more than 200 years ago – 120 being the name of the estate’s best-selling, entry-level wine and the bottle cellar.

Choose from gourmet Chilean dishes paired with Santa Rita wines or take high tea on the shaded veranda. Reservations are required: (+562 2 362 2590) or email: restaurant@santarita.cl

Of course the winery visit and tastings, with or without a sunset backdrop, are must-do activities. From classic to ultra-premium – and several in-between (including the option to take a horse drawn carriage around the gardens) – immerse yourself in the world of Santa Rita, learning about the estate’s grape varieties, winemaking and cellaring process as well as visiting the ‘Cellar of the 120 Patriots’. The wines available to taste range by tour from entry-level to the estate’s higher-end bottlings.

Super fans can also become a winemaker for the day with a ‘Winemaker Experience’ in which you’ll design your own signature wine blend, bottle and cork it, then label and varnish it ready to take home.

There is also an on-site shop brimming with local edible and viscous goodies including a wide range of top wines from both Chile and Argentina made by Santa Rita and sister wineries; Carmen, Sur Andino and Doña Paula as well as wine accessories and handmade crafts made by members of the Alto Jahuel community.

With over 130 years of wine production and experience, Santa Rita is one of the pioneers of progressive Chilean viticulture seeking out new and exciting regions from which to grow a variety of grapes while also focusing on single-vineyard plots and expressions of terroir. With vineyards in some of the country’s best wine growing regions, the range of wines continues to expand under the expert hand of top Chilean winemaker Sebastián Labbé and his team.

One of which is the new, innovative and impressive Floresta range comprising; Chardonnay, Field Blend Blanco, Carménère, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Dedication also remains to the production of the estate’s icon wine Casa Real – a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon made only in the best years and of which the 1989 vintage is a Decanter Wine Legend.

Be sure to also save time to discover Chile’s fascinating pre-Colombian and post-conquest history in the Andean Museum, set on site and just a few minutes walk from the hotel. Inaugurated in 2006, the museum has an archaeological and ethnographic collection of more than 3,000 pieces from the different cultures that have inhabited the Andean zone, all curated and carefully displayed.

Combining flawless service, generous hospitality and an unrivalled charm and beauty, Hotel Casa Real provides an unforgettable stay.

For more information, visit: www.santarita.com/en/

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Winemaker Derek Mossman Knapp, of Chile’s Garage Wine Company, introduced the group’s ‘Old-Vine Revival’ project in the UK this month.

This included a first UK tasting of its new-release Old-Vine Revival País 2021 wine.

Garage Wine Company’s Maule-based project focuses on producing wine from previously-neglected old vines, while at the same time supporting local farming communities.

Born out of the Covid pandemic, the initiative enabled farmers to work in their local vineyards, which also eliminated the need to travel.

Maule is home to a wealth of very old, dry-farmed, family-owned vines. Yet these have largely been ignored by the mainstream industry due to their limited production potential and issues with accessibility.

A little more than 5,000 bottles of ‘Revival’ Old Vine País 2021 were made and Mossman Knapp described the wine as somewhere ‘between a Gamay and a Pinot Noir’.

The wine was first offered for sale en primeur about 18 months ago, which further contributed to financial security for both the growers and producer in the midst of the pandemic.

The Old-Vine Revival project has been supported by Garage Wine Company’s UK distributor, Freixenet Copestick. Old-Vine Revival País 2021 was available to the trade via Jascots and to consumers via retailer Slurp Wine, priced at £17.95.

‘Land, not brand’

Garage Wine Company was founded in 2001 by Mossman Knapp and his wife, Pilar Miranda, who started out by making wine in their garage for family and friends. As time went on, the business grew and they now export to 16 countries.

They began in Maipo but found that the concept of small, artisanal production didn’t fit with the typical large-scale, low-cost model that was common in Chile at the time. Wanting to keep their hands-on focus, they headed to Maule.

When asked why he chose Maule, Mossman Knapp said, ‘the human factor, people and their stories’.

The social and environmental aspects of his approach were, however, partly organic; originally, they just made good sense as a business model for a small producer.

Large-scale bottle makers, label printers and wax capsule manufacturers were unable to fill small orders, so the company turned to recycling bottles, a bottle painter and a crayon wax supplier.

Despite this born-out-of-necessity method, it is clear that Mossman Knapp has a vast appreciation of the place and history behind his wines, referring to ‘land, not brand’.

In 2010, he helped found the Independent Winemakers Movement (MOVI) in Chile – a group of small producers with a focus on wines ‘made on a human scale’.

País in context

Mossman Knapp told Decanter that País was grown in Chile as far back as 1548, having been brought over from the Canary Islands in raisin form.

He contextualised this as the year after Henry VIII died.

As the phylloxera louse that devastated many European vineyards in the 19th century did not reach Chile, many of the vines that exist today are very old.

The relevance of this, according to Mossman Knapp, is the part of the vine we don’t see, rather than the ‘photogenic candelabra profile above ground’.

The roots, remaining intact over such a long period of time, are robust and grow deep, penetrating the cracks in the decomposed gravel soils to access water.

Long considered a rustic variety, País has experienced a significant revival in recent years.

This is largely due to the influence of producers that, like Garage Wine Company, are focused on regeneration and producing small-volume, quality wines with a sense of place.

However, there remains work to be done in changing the perception of the grape’s capability. Mossman Knapp says it is still not considered a fine wine.

Paving the way ahead

Garage Wine Company has embraced the potential of Maule and of País, concentrating on making small-parcel wines with an onus of exploring and appreciating individual sites.

Grapes from three farms have been used for the Old-Vine Revival País 2021.

This approach showcases Mossman Knapp’s respect for the environment and heritage, employing ancestral farming methods and winemaking techniques such as using native yeasts, gentle maceration and minimal sulphite additions.

He said the project has scratched the surface in terms of reviving old vines and provided ‘something that people can really grab onto’.

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The story of País is a classic Cinderella tale. It started life as Listán Prieto, probably in the Gredos mountains of Castilla-La Mancha, central Spain. Via the conquistadores, with their missionary entourages carrying knowledge and tools for viticulture and winemaking, it travelled along the Columbian trade route, first to the Canary Islands, then the Americas.

For more than four centuries, País was a secret treasure. In homesteads throughout Chile’s southern countryside it was used to make wines known as pipeños – rustic country wines fermented in rauli pipas (open wooden lagares).

Scroll down to see 10 top País wines worth seeking out

As Chile’s wine industry developed further north, País from the south was largely dismissed as a peasant variety unfit for ‘proper’ wine – too light in colour or too ‘rustic’ in character. It took a young Frenchman to set in motion a renewed appreciation of País and a revival of the south’s winemaking heritage.

The southern revival

Burgundian winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt arrived in Chile in 1998, and over two decades showed that high-quality, terroir-focused País could be made with a ‘natural’ philosophy. Having studied oenology in Beaune with Mathieu Lapierre, son of Beaujolais natural wine pioneer Marcel Lapierre, the wines he made in the semi-carbonic style drew ready comparisons to those of Lapierre, Guy Breton and other newly fashionable winemakers in the Beaujolais region.

The next link in the story is Roberto Henríquez Ascencio. A native of Bío Bío, Henríquez worked with Luyt before going solo as a winemaker in 2013. Previously he had been a government-paid agronomy consultant to farmers throughout Bío Bío and Itata – a job that gave him privileged access to the best growers and the otherwise hidden vinous treasures of what he calls ‘virgin wine territory’.

‘The soldiers who settled after the [Arauco] war with the Mapuche were the first to establish private property in the south,’ he explains. ‘But they only did this on a small scale, and in fragmented areas – so the properties that exist all over Itata and Bío Bío are very atomised. In Itata, for example, there are about 4,000 producers, and 3,000 of these are only 1ha-3ha. It lends itself to négociant winemaking.’

Following Luyt and Henríquez – and also Argentinian Leonardo Erazo of A Los Viñateros Bravos, who first arrived in the region in 2011 – more local winemakers and growers were encouraged to bottle their own País wines. Among them were Mauricio González Carreño (Estación Yumbel), Renán Cancino Abarza (Huaso de Sauzal), José Luis Bastías (González Bastías) and Manuel Moraga Gutiérrez (Cacique Maravilla).

Other important players were Thomas Parayre and Macarena del Río of Macatho. Inspired by Luyt, they brought an intense focus on organic and biodynamic vineyard practices to reveal the under-appreciated terroir potential of País.

‘I think País is one of the most resistant and strongest varieties that we have observed,’ says del Río. ‘It copes well with a lack of water [in spring and summer, this part of southern Chile often sees no significant rainfall for five months or more], extreme sun, fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, a lack of nutrients…

‘Because of these qualities we have plants that are more than 200 years old in the territory. But when you cultivate these plants and give them the necessary care, the grapes they give you are even more noble.’

Styles of País

As a drinker trying to understand the many expressions of País, the appellations of Maule, Itata and Bío Bío will bring only limited help. Yes, Maule, with its warmer [more northerly] climate, produces País with a riper fruit profile; while from Bío Bío it is spicier and more herbal. But one must look to the individual winemakers and specific terroirs to identify discrete wine styles.

Chilean sommelier Héctor Riquelme, a tireless advocate of País and the winemaking heritage of Chile’s south, believes the most distinctive wines are made by the most traditional winemaking methods – in particular, fermentation in open lagares made from rauli wood. ‘For me, what happens in the open tank is magical. It gives an extra flavour to the wine, an extra typicity,’ says Riquelme.

‘You can then age in stainless steel tank, concrete or tinajas – or whatever you want to use – but when you get the fruit of these old vines, from the right place, and then ferment in open rauli lagares, this gives you electricity.’

Well-travelled Argentina-born winemaker Leo Erazo has done more than most to bring the nuances of south Chilean terroir to light (it would be remiss not to also mention Concepción-born geologist-turned-winemaker Pedro Parra, who is also making terroir-focused País in Itata and Bío Bío). A soil and geology obsessive with a decade of experience working in diverse regions and terroirs of the world, Erazo has been bottling País from Itata’s two principal types of mother rock – granitic and volcanic – since 2014.

He believes his low-intervention techniques – and use of concrete – help to retain the subtle terroir differences of his Granítico and Volcánico País. The elegant structure of his wines also refutes the idea that all País is rustic in character. ‘Everybody talks about País having rough tannins,’ Erazo says, ‘but these rough tannins actually come from stressed vineyards. When País is in vineyards that are treated with herbicides and go into water stress by the end of the season, the natural response of the vine is to produce phenolic compounds, including tannins.’

For further proof that País can be elegant, taste the wines of Ignacio Pino Román. Based in Guarilihue, he is one of the most promising winemakers to emerge in southern Chile in recent years. His filigree, aromatic País is a world away from the rustic wines with which the region has long been associated. For Pino Román, the grape’s potential for finesse has always been there, it has simply been obscured from sight.

‘For a long time the wine industry in Chile made País invisible,’ he says. ‘The stubborn idea of making Bordeaux-type wines from “finer” French varieties hid its oenological potential. Today, Chile is recovering its winemaking identity, and this has attracted many talented professionals to Maule, Itata and Bío Bío to lead its rebirth by producing high-quality wines.’

The future is farming

With their relative wealth of dry-farmed, centenarian vines – thanks to their location and favourable soil types, unaffected by the phylloxera infestations that impacted most of the world’s vineyards – Chile’s southern valleys are blessed with some of the most precious vine material in the world. But that has not been enough to save them from economic pressures.

Since the 1960s, even in these relatively undeveloped regions, glyphosate (weedkiller) has come to dominate vineyard farming. And though organic farming and viticulture persists, the economic reality is that Secano Interior [a dry inland sector within Maule and beyond] is plantation country. Huge areas of what was once rich native forest have been replaced by endless hectares of pine and eucalyptus. According to Macatho’s Macarena del Río, before a government decree in the 1970s that inaugurated an era of state subsidies for forestry companies, there were more than 100,000ha of País in Chile. Today, no more than 15,000ha remain.

One radical wine project provides an example of how to restore soil health and biodiversity to land continually under threat from big agribusiness. Mingaco, run by Pablo Pedreros and his wife Daniela de Pablo, is a regenerative farm with vineyards close to the Itata river. Organic for the best part of a decade (and latterly also no-till), it is a model of how putting nature first can yield the most extraordinary grapes and, by turn, the most extraordinary wines.

‘Five years ago, we were the black sheep of the region,’ says de Pablo. ‘Now, we are still perceived as radical, but people are moving towards this way of working. It’s slowly growing, but I wish more landowners or local people would be persuaded to work this way.’

Slow it may be, but growth is there. New vineyard-focused producers – both local and from overseas – are coming together to form a loose community in the region. Some work with their own vineyards, others buy in grapes; some work traditionally with open lagares, others using barrels or steel tanks. But they all share a common understanding that – though the textbook narrative still focuses on the valleys further north – the soul of Chilean wine is in the south. And there is one grape variety that defines that soul more than any other: País.

Smith’s 10 País wines to try

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The world of Pinot Noir is a complex one. It’s well known that Pinot is a variety that’s as demanding as its consumers are. With the reds of Burgundy leading the way, you wouldn’t have thought there was much leeway for Pinot Noirs from other regions in the world to impress.

But California and Oregon have already shown that it’s possible to make good Pinot Noirs in the New World. While in South America today, producers in Chile, Argentina and Uruguay are making varietal wines that demand attention.

The winemakers of South America are respectfully looking beyond Burgundy, exploring new profiles for Pinot Noir in their own unique terroirs. The resulting wines are eminently capable of intriguing even the most die-hard Burgundians.

Chile

At the turn of the century, producers in Chile began to plant Pinot Noir in different regions of its viticultural landscape. The method they adopted was to replace the existing old vines with quality healthy clones such as 777, 667, 115 and massal selections from Burgundy.

But the key ingredient to the success of these ventures was time. In the early stages, the majority of wines produced from these new plantings were concentrated; quite different from what one might expect from a Pinot Noir.

‘In Chile, we’ve always followed the Bordelais tradition and we initially handled Pinot Noir in the same way as we did Cabernet,’ remembers Francisco Baettig, winemaker at Viña Errazuriz. ‘It took us time to understand how to exploit the potential of our new vineyards but today we’re confident we’re on the right path.’

And so, with focus and dedication, Pinot Noir became a serious business in Chile. In addition to the increased surface area, which now stands at 4,144ha under vine (compared to 1,434 in 2001), there is the work in different regions and, especially, research into soils.

‘Between 1995 and 1998 we expanded into coastal terroirs with cooler climates where varieties such as Pinot Noir produce better results,’ says Viviana Navarrete, the oenologist at Viña Leyda, a leading producer of Pinot Noirs in Chile. ‘Today Pinot Noir is grown from Elqui to Osorno – a distance of about a thousand miles – and that results in different styles.’

However this diversity of terroir required greater research and study. ‘Pinot Noir needs a lot of attention,’ says Felipe Muller, the winemaker at Tabalí. ‘We’ve learned that it’s not just a cool climate variety, but also very demanding in terms of the soils it needs. Planting in calcareous soils was key to achieving better expressions.’

Today, some of the best New World Pinot Noirs are to be found in Chile. While areas closer to the sea are producing styles similar to Oregon and sunnier vineyards make wines more like those in Sonoma, the greatest work is being done to produce a refined style of Pinot Noir with its own identity. A Pinot Noir which reflects both its place of origin and the vision of its winemakers.

Argentina

The history of Pinot Noir in Argentina is fairly brief. Until the early 2000s, the variety didn’t attract much attention. All the focus was on Malbec. Eventually, from an old vineyard in Patagonia, Piero Incisa della Rochetta began to put the country on the Pinot Noir map with his Bodega Chacra wines.

This inspired several other producers to seek out old vineyards of their own or find clones better suited to Argentinian terroirs. There was also a move to identify regions where they would truly thrive.

Surprisingly, Pinot Noir is grown in more regions of Argentina than Malbec. Not just in Mendoza and Patagonia, but also in the highest vineyards of the country at 3,100m above sea level in Salta, and near the Atlantic Ocean in Buenos Aires.

‘Back in 1992, we started to plant Pinot Noir in high altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley,’ remembers Laura Catena, who founded Domaine Nico, a project in which she makes Pinot Noir from five different vineyards at altitudes of between 1,000m and 1,500m above sea level in Tupungato. ‘Our work with cool mountain areas convinced us that there was great potential.’

About 1,450km to the south of the Uco Valley in the province of Chubut, the team at Bodega Otronia was thinking similarly. ‘We decided to bet on an extreme, virgin terroir where the temperatures are extremely low and the Pinot Noir is very rewarding,’ says Juan Pablo Murgia, the project’s winemaker. ‘We feel that we have a unique style.’

The same enthusiasm can be observed in each of the producers who have set themselves the goal of making Pinot Noir to satisfy the most demanding palates in the world. Among them – with the exception of the old vineyards of Río Negro such as Chacra or Humberto Canale, who achieve a classical European style – the majority of Pinot Noirs from Argentina take on profiles similar to either Sonoma or Martinborough in New Zealand. These wines are concentrated and lively with vivid flavours of cherry and other red fruit.

Uruguay

Today, Uruguay has 60ha of Pinot Noir under vine where the vineyards are influenced by the Atlantic Ocean or the Río de la Plata, depending on the region. In both cases, the result is a mild, relatively cloudy climate which results in benefits and challenges.

‘Pinot Noir has great potential in Uruguay although the climate presents difficulties in the field,’ says Germán Bruzzone, winemaker at Bodega Garzón. ‘However, with care and precise winemaking we’re producing refined wines that we’re getting excited about.’

There are at least two discernible styles developing, each related to its region’s history. On the one hand, there are the older vineyards located in the historic Department of Canelones by the Río de la Plata, which present a traditional profile with tertiary evoltion.

Meanwhile the younger vineyards, clustered in the Department of Maldonado – which is influenced by the ocean and has poor, rocky soils – produce wines that are more modern and intense in the classical New World vein.

However, in addition to the age of the vines, it’s important to note that in both terroirs, when Pinot Noir is tended to diligently, the results can be very interesting as works in progress. These include wines from wineries such as Garzón, Deicas and Viña Edén in Maldonado or Cerro del Toro in Piriápolis. Or, in the more traditional region of Canelones: Familia Pisano, Marichal and Pizzorno.

Top 20 South American Pinot Noirs to try

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Just over 6,400km in length, Chile is a country with a fascinating range of terroirs. This is fully reflected in the diversity of its wines.

Heavily influenced by air currents from the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes to the east, all of Chile’s wine producing valleys have their own microclimates, as well as distinct complex soil composition. This variety means that individual vineyards experienced the harvest conditions of 2022 in different ways.

It was a year that saw the continuation of a historically severe drought that frayed the nerves of wine-growers across the country’s regions. Indeed, the spectre of further water scarcity in the future looms large.

‘In the Pacific Ocean, the water temperature has been cooler. When that happens we get less rain,’ said Marcelo Papa, winemaker and technical director at Concha y Toro. ‘The 2021/2022 drought is a result of the water temperature.’

Knowing this, Chilean producers were prepared for a difficult season, although few imagined the drought would be so severe. ‘This harvest was among the five driest recorded in the past 100 years,’ said Francisco Baettig, head winemaker at Errazuriz.

Nonetheless, now that the harvest is over, winemakers are pleased with the quality of the grapes they have obtained. What’s more, these favourable first impressions are being backed up by the early fermentations.

The growing cycle

The growing season began with low levels of existing water in the soils following a dry, icy winter. From Itata to the north, for example, precipitation was as much as 90% below average. There were only light rains in August, though some late snow showers helped to augment the snowmelt that became crucial for irrigation reserves during a similarly dry summer.

Temperatures were another factor that needed to be monitored closely. The cool, dry winter was followed by a relatively cool spring that delayed the beginning of the growth cycle. Spring also saw several late frosts hit the southern coast, Casablanca and Leyda, with the icy mornings affecting the development of the white varieties, resulting in low yields for white wines.

At least ‘blossoming and fruit setting occurred in perfect conditions, with steady temperatures’ according to Aurelio Montes at Viña Montes. However by December the number of accumulated degree days was still below average and only increasing slowly.

In January temperatures rose, accelerating ripening somewhat; although the summer was still cool, making for gradual development. Only by February did the temperatures help the grapes to achieve proper ripeness.

‘Oddly, January was cooler than in previous seasons, but February and March were warmer,’ commented Gerardo Leal, viticulture manager at Viña Santa Rita and Viña Carmen. ‘This meant that ripening was slow, mainly among the red grapes, while the white grapes achieved Brix more quickly.’

At the end of February, light rains provided some relief to thirsty vineyards but not to the extent that they posed a health risk. However, heavier rain at the end of March did present a logistical headache with plenty of red grapes still waiting to be picked.

Harvest and vinification

‘It was a warm, dry harvest season with low yields and early ripening. But because the warmth was steady we were able to keep it under control,’ said Rafael Urrejola, winemaker at Viña Undurraga. ‘We did see a drop in the number of kilos harvested, resulting in fewer litres of wine.’

Depending on the valley in question, the drop in yield ranged from between 7% and 22% – although the excellent quality of the grapes is a compensating factor for producers who were on tenterhooks throughout the year.

While the anxiety of winemakers, agricultural engineers and producers was palpable throughout the summer, there was also plenty of cautious enthusiasm. Now that the fruit is at the wineries, their relief at the quality they’re seeing is clear.

It was a ‘make or break harvest’ according to Leo Erazo, a leading winemaker in Itata – a region particularly affected by the drought this year. ‘We had a fantastic winter with plenty of rain. So we started out well,’ he explains.

‘The spring was good before the drought hit and then things got difficult. We saw plants losing their leaves from stress before the grapes were ripe. We had to work very hard and face enormous challenges. But thanks to the work we’ve been doing in regenerative viticulture since 2016 we achieved good results.’

Itata and Maule suffered the largest drops in yields but the resilience of the old vines of País and Carignan ensured good fruit overall.

Final verdict

The general consensus among producers is that the region that fared best in 2022 was Limarí, which, surprisingly, is generally at its coolest during dry years. ‘I’m thrilled with the Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir,’ said Papa at Concha y Toro. ‘We had a cooler year than in 2021, which wasn’t warm,’ he adds.

In Maipo, meanwhile: ‘It was cooler than in the inner valleys and the Cabernet Sauvignons are fantastic,’ said Baettig. ‘Having enough water for irrigation was essential.’

Colchagua and Cachapoal were the regions least affected by the drought, although Andrea León, head winemaker and viticulturist at Lapostolle and Clos Apalta, noted: ‘It was an unusual year in terms of temperatures but with plenty of solar radiation. It wasn’t an easy year to read, because all the indications were that it would be a warm, dry year. But it didn’t turn out like that.’

‘There was a large thermal range while low pHs suggest that the wines will have a rich colour, lively tannins and good concentration,’ he adds. This means excellent potential.

‘The harvest had plenty of good attributes, nature never ceases to surprise us,’ Montes summed up. ‘It’s an incredible year for reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère, while the whites are very good in spite of the low yields. In general we’re seeing joyful, exuberant and intense wines across the different regions. It was a challenging year in terms of climate but we came out of it full of energy after the two year pandemic.’

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Brought up in a Catholic family in Santiago, Marcelo Retamal knew he wanted to travel from a young age. He’d watched from the sidelines as his uncle, a renowned scientist, travelled worldwide and regaled him with inspiring tales from afar.

His own first taste of travel came in 1992 when the concert of his favourite band, Iron Maiden, was unceremoniously cancelled in Chile. ‘The church and state banned them from entering Chile for their demonic appearance… It was nonsense,” remembers Reta, as he’s known by friends. ‘So my parents got me a bus ticket to see them in Argentina. It was one of the best concerts in my life!’

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 12 iconic Marcelo Retamal wines

Retamal has had a lifelong loyalty to Iron Maiden since – and knew that he wanted a career that allowed him to travel. When he was offered his first winemaking job after University by Pietro de Martino, he took it under two conditions. First that he’d be able to make wines in different regions of Chile; and second, that he’d be allowed to travel each year to different international wine regions. That contract stayed in place until his retirement, and in that time he has made wine in over 350 different vineyards and wine regions along the breadth of Chile and visited hundreds of wine regions ranging from Greece and Georgia to Australia and Alsace.

‘At first I treated my trips like a marathon… trying to visit as many wineries and taste as many wines as possible. I did the maths one time, and in one visit of three weeks I’d tasted 800 wines!’ he says. ‘My approach changed over time though – now I pick the producer over the wine or appellation. It’s the conversation that counts,’ he adds.

These conversations have inspired some of Retamal’s more radical moves in winemaking and given him the tools and confidence to challenge the status quo in Chile. When he started his career in wine in the 1990s, the status quo was simple: ‘Winemakers spent more time in the winery than the vineyard, and we would pick according to the date – always before Easter week – and vinify in old rauli [local Chilean wood] vats,’ he reflects. ‘That was the way the red wines in Chile were until Clos Apalta changed everything.’

A break with tradition

The 1997 vintage of Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta wine from Colchagua, made with Michel Rolland as the consultant, sent ripples through Chile’s wine world. It became an overnight sensation that won over international critics and sent a firm message to Chilean wineries: make riper wines.

‘We started making wines that were not only riper, but with lots of alcohol and lots of oak,’ says Retamal. ‘Even though we were spending more time in the vineyards now and looking for new terroirs it didn’t matter – all the wines tasted the same.’

Retamal looks back on his vintages in the early 2000s as fashion victims of the time. Through his travels to other wine regions around the world — tasting the wines of Joško Gravner and Elisabetta Foradori, for example – he began to question the direction that both he and the rest of Chile was taking. ‘By 2009, I wasn’t drinking any of the wines I made! I couldn’t bring myself to finish a bottle,’ he notes.

In 2010, Retamal started experimenting with earlier harvests again, using less oak and native yeast ferments. He was searching to go back to how Chile made wines in the past, but with an increased knowledge of the country’s vineyards that he had been avidly exploring over the years.

That vintage was the lightbulb moment for Retamal. He managed to convince the De Martino family – Pietro De Martino, and now the fourth generation Marco Antonio and Sebastian de Martino – to take a bold step with him in a different direction.

A focus on place

As a result, 2011 was a landmark vintage for De Martino. ‘We prioritised tension in the wines: with naturally fresh acidity, less alcohol, less oak, less ripeness…’ says Retamal. He began to make large quantities of low-intervention wines which reflected particularities of the place. His team included long-serving second winemakers Felipe Müller (now at Viña Tabalí) and Eduardo Jordán (now technical director at Miguel Torres Chile). He also received input from friend and soil expert Pedro Parra. It was the start of a greater shift that soon took hold of the wider Chilean wine industry.

2011 was also the year that led Retamal to Itata – a region that would not only shape his career, but which he would help to reshape. ‘I wanted to make a wine that would be an icon of this change: with old vines and artisanal winemaking,’ he says. His search took him to the coastal hills of Guarilihue in Itata with old vines of Cinsault, and an idea to vinify in ancient tinajas (Chilean amphorae).

The first vintage of De Martino’s Viejas Tinajas Cinsault shook up Chile’s wine world – perhaps just as palpably as Clos Apalta had done more than a decade before. The wine would not only herald a renewed interest in the old vines of Itata, but also the use of tinajas and skin-contact orange wines (which he made the following year with Moscatel grapes). Retamal and Jordán scoured the country for old tinajas, bringing some 150 of them into the winery – and consequently bumping up the value of these old wine vessels by threefold.

Giving value to old vines and traditional wine regions was also part of Retamal’s goal when he co-founded the Vigno association in 2010. The association, founded with other winemakers and colleagues who shared a passion for old vine Carignan, championed these ancient vines in Maule. It also pushed the price per kilo up from US$0.10 to $1.50 in less than a decade. Working for the common good is a running theme behind many of Retamal’s endeavours.

Reaching new heights

It was the discovery of new vines though, that marked one of the main paths for Retamal. Ever exploring, he heard of an extreme new plantation of wine grapes in the mountains of Elqui Valley and drove there to snoop around in 2006. There he met the Flaño family, who had planted their vineyards in Alcohuaz the year before, and felt an immediate bond to the place and family.

‘It is a truly magical place – the light, the energy, the feeling – and the Flaño family were visionaries… But the grape choices that they had planted were a disaster!’ remembers Retamal with a tender chuckle. He offered to be a partner in the project and the following year they regrafted the suffering vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère with Mediterranean varieties including Syrah, Malbec and Garnacha that could handle the extreme altitude.

The vision of Viñedos de Alcohuaz began to come into focus. ‘It is a very organic project in that sense… evolving at its own pace,’ says Retamal. ‘We started to define the wines as we started studying the grapes. For example, it was the thickness of the skins at this altitude which led us to construct stone lagares so we could gently crush the grapes by foot.’

Not only is Viñedos de Alcohuaz the highest commercial altitude vineyard in Chile, with vineyards now reaching a staggering 2,200m above sea level, but the wines are a world apart. Low-intervention wines that are aged in cement and foudre for several years before release, they express the power of the place with the temperance of time.

Today, more than ever, Retamal pours his time into these wines — spending long hours blending in the underground granite cellar to the sounds of Pink Floyd. The result is one of the most distinctive portfolios in the New World today.

Flying solo

In addition to Viñedos de Alcohuaz, and now with his independence from De Martino, Retamal has also launched his own label with his wife and three daughters. Using his decades of experience exploring the vineyards of Chile, he’s cherry-picked his favourite varieties and vineyards for his eponymous brand, simply called ‘Reta’.

On the coastal terraces of Limarí, just four hours downhill from Alcohuaz, he is making his excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. ‘I love these as grape varieties to drink, and – after years of searching – I think Limarí is the best place in Chile for both,’ he states. Retamal works on different plots for each variety: picking the limestone soils of Talinay for his Pinot Noir and the granite-calcareous-clay soils of Quebrada Seca for his Chardonnay.

It is perhaps only Retamal who would ever have access to these plots. Talinay is a treasure of Tabalí, managed by his longstanding friend Hector Rojas Barahona and former apprentice Felipe Müller. Quebrada Seca is the oldest plot of Chardonnay in Limarí, owned by a grower who Retamal has worked with for decades and who he helped to salvage part of his drought-stricken vineyard.

The third of Retamal’s inaugural trio of wines is another reflection of his long-standing relationships with growers. ‘I came across this vineyard in 2000 – an incredible Malbec planted in 1949 on its own roots. It was love at first sight,’ he sighs. Retamal has been working with the grower and vineyard since 2000, producing what was then Single Vineyard Limavida at De Martino.

When the De Martino family decided to stop making the wine, Retamal was gutted. But, in a twist of fate, the grower reached out to Jordán, who was by now working at Miguel Torres Chile. He snapped it up immediately – having shared a passion for these old vines with Retamal for many years. When Retamal started his independent project, Jordán immediately offered him 50% of the vineyard for his own wine.

Today Jordán’s Los Inquietos Malbec for Miguel Torres Chile and Retamal’s Reta Romelio Malbec show not only this incredible terroir, but offer a fascinating insight into the shared and yet unique visions of each winemaker. The name Romelio is an ode to the grower, who passed away recently. The date of the plantation of the vineyard is inscribed on the wine label, along with the date of Retamal’s wedding and the date of his first Iron Maiden concert. These wines and vineyards are very much intertwined in his personal history.

‘These three parcels are definitely among the five most important and defining that I have worked with in my life,’ he says. ‘But I’m still looking for a really old vine País to include… I think I might have found it, but we have to see how the wine turns out before I say any more!’

Future plans

Along with tracking down more old vines in Chile, Retamal has also set his sights much further afield: exploring the lesser-known hills of the Sierra de Salamanca in Spain. He has already acquired and made wines from three parcels of old vines of native varieties planted between 500m and 800m – and is on the hunt for more.

Will Retamal ever slow down? ‘Probably not!’ he laughs. ‘But I’m definitely taking my time over these wines – there’s no rush to release them. I want my children and their children to have these wines in their cellar for decades to come. My dream is that they’ll be able to do a vertical in 80 years time!’

As he continues to bring forth thrilling wines from Alcohuaz, Chile and beyond, it’s clear that Retamal’s retirement from De Martino is by no means an indication that he is slowing down. Rather it’s a sign that he’s building his legacy. As he’s already proven in less than a year, Marcelo Retamal is ready to keep on rocking.

Marcelo’s landmarks:

1968 Born in Santiago

1988-1995 Studied at Universidad de Concepción

1992 First Iron Maiden concert

1996 Started at De Martino

2006 Become partner in Viñedos de Alcohuaz

2010 Co-founded VIGNO

2011 First vintage of Viejas Tinajas

2019 First vintage of Reta wines from Chile

2021 Retired from De Martino

2023 First release of Reta wines from Spain

See tasting notes and scores of 12 iconic Marcelo Retamal wines

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Chile has some incredible travel destinations and luxury hotels to go with them, but in the wine lands there are few that can compare to the grandeur and playful luxury of VIK.

Set within a private 4,450ha nature reserve, VIK rises in the distance with its shimmering crown. One of the most incredible roofs you can imagine, this swooping bronzed titanium structure echoes the folds of the undulating hillsides all around you.

As beautiful as it is from the outside, the beauty of VIK really lies inside — between the 22 bedrooms and 7 glass bungalows each designed and decorated by different artists. The owners, Norwegian billionaires and art lovers Alex and Carrie Vik, have put art to the fore throughout — selecting and commissioning each piece themselves.

One of my favourite rooms is Vicky Money, designed by Uruguayan artist Victoria Aguirre who decked out the bathroom with 50,000 one euro cent coins to make the walls and sink glimmer in copper. The colourful Valenzuela room has the iconic red lips sofa of Dalí. While the Letras bungalow boasts a hot tub on the terrace and a giant boxing glove as a lounger.

But the Master Suites are something else. Taking up the corner rooms, you get an incredible view of the valley to wake up to – and bathe to, if you score the VIK room (the owner’s favourite) with its hammock-shaped bathtub.

It’s hard to find a reason to leave the bathtub with views like that. Although the infinity pool, yoga studio and wine spa might be calling you. Or try one of the incredible horse treks you can take around the estate.

Wine and food

The underground winery itself is also a work of art, with a river rock sculpture as its roof, designed by Chilean architect Smiljan Radic and surrounded by the 327ha of vineyards. A tasting of the quadruple of VIK wines also gives you an insight into VIK’s innovative winemaking concepts — from the in-house cooperage where fallen oak is used to toast their ‘barroir’ barrels and where amphorae are made from clay from the estate.

Even the restaurant takes the ‘local’ concept to a different level. Chef Pablo Cácares grows most of his own ingredients for the fine-dining Milla Milla hotel restaurant and laid-back Pavilion winery restaurant. The rest is sourced from local artisans and breeders — including salt harvested from the nearby coast. You can harvest your own ingredients from the 80-plus vegetable varieties grown in the garden, and herbivores will welcome the newest addition to the dining experience — an outdoor vegetarian restaurant nestled between the roots, flowers and fruits.

A stay at VIK is not only a vivid once-in-a-lifetime luxury, but also a holistic deep dive into the heart of Chile’s Central Valley and all the colourful bounties it provides.

While you wait for your dream trip to Chile, you can take a 360 tour online.

For more information, visit vikwine.com

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Peter Richards MW, Alistair Cooper MW and Dirceu Vianna Junior MW tasted 55 wines with 2 Outstanding and 15 Highly Recommended.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit 100% Pinot Noir still red wines from any Chilean region and vintage of their choice

Chilean Pinot Noir panel tasting scores

55 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 15

Recommended 28

Commended 8

Fair 0

Poor 1

Faulty 1

The last time Chilean Pinot Noir was tackled by a Decanter panel, the results featured in the October 2019 magazine issue and the report sang of, ‘stellar results [with] plenty of diversity, character and excitement’.

The write-up noted a steady progression in quality and resultant ratings over previous tastings in 2016 and 2013.

So does this ‘somewhat disappointing’ tasting (to cite the words of Alistair Cooper MW) reflect a faltering in the momentum of Chile’s great Pinot push? Certainly the raw numbers suggest a dip in form.

In the 2019 tasting, 40% of wines scored 90 points or more, while 90% of wines were rated 86pts or more. The corresponding figures for this tasting were closer to 30% and 80%. As Dirceu Vianna Junior MW commented: ‘I went into this tasting with high expectations… but I wasn’t able to see much progress.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Chilean Pinot Noir wines

As ever, the picture that emerges from a tasting like this is a nuanced one.

One of the main bugbears (certainly for me) was a lack of consistency in style and quality. Too many wines lacked the freshness, charm, harmony and elegance that are the essential hallmarks of quality Pinot.

Overworked, overripe, overextracted flavours cropped up all too often, as did disconcertingly deep, purple-stained hues. Cooper testified to a ‘lack of varietal character’, while Vianna agreed there was a ‘lack of consistency’.

This may be more of a temporary glitch than a derailing of Chile’s Pinot train, however. One of the reasons for the lack of consistency and quality is that both the 2019 and 2020 vintages were notably hot and not best suited to Pinot (the latter harvest was also disrupted by Covid-related restrictions). The 2018s tended to show their class by contrast. The best wines across all vintages, however, were those that prioritised perfume, grace and varietal expression.

There were positives, too. The geographical spread of the top-scoring wines was not lost on Vianna, who said the tasting ‘demonstrated that it is possible to make delicious Pinot anywhere in Chile, from Atacama to Malleco – there were some particularly exciting wines from the deep south.’ This point was echoed by Cooper: ‘The few wines we saw from the deep south were impressive – I’d like to see more.’ Both of the wines from the deep south that scored above 90pts are relative newcomers – San Pedro’s Tayu project with the indigenous Buchahueico community and Francisco Baettig’s solo project in Traiguén – and both are exciting propositions for the future.

For those looking to buy Chilean Pinot, this a tricky time. Growing pains are evident among wines and producers, resulting in a lack of consistency. This means that choosing with care is more important than ever. There are excellent wines, and some bargains to be had – but disappointments abound.

‘There were some exceptional wines, and I still believe Pinot is on an upward trajectory in Chile,’ commented Cooper, while noting the relatively small number of samples in this tasting compared to previous years and expressing reservations about the longevity of many wines. Vianna was equally ambivalent, pointing to judicious winemaking, but also ‘a general lack of ambition’.

Pinot-philes should not lose faith when it comes to Chile. Unquestionably exciting things are happening. But, on the basis of this tasting, a little more patience may be required.

Top-scoring wines from the Chilean Pinot Noir panel tasting

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. An award-winning broadcaster and writer, and leading global authority on Chilean wine, together with his wife Susie Barrie MW, he co-hosts the Wine Blast podcast as well as the acclaimed Wine Festival Winchester.

Alistair Cooper MW is a wine consultant, writer and educator with a particular focus on South America. President of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile, he writes regularly for Jancis Robinson, Decanter and many other publications.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, technical advisor, consultant and educator. He moved to the UK in 1989 and spent much of his career as wine director for some of the UK’s most prominent wine distributors. In 2008, he became the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine.

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Chilean Pinot Noir panel tasting results 

What’s hot in Chile?

Rising stars: Winemakers to watch in Chile and Argentina

Seemingly immune to passing trends, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the king of red grapes. In fact, while Syrah, Pinot Noir and Malbec have been busy making headlines, Cabernet Sauvignon has become the most commonly planted red variety in the world, with about 341,000ha under vine globally (OIV 2017).

When it comes to single varietals and red blends based on Cabernet Sauvignon, many wine lovers instinctively think of Bordeaux and Napa Valley – not least for the exorbitant prices some of their wines can command.

However, South America is now also producing examples that are beginning to turn collectors’ heads.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the wines setting the standard for South American Cabernet Sauvignon

Drawing on a long history of producing Cabernet Sauvignon blends, Argentina and Chile have become rising powers in the fine wine field.

Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile

Winemaking in Chile owes a lot to Cabernet Sauvignon. In the 1980s, it established itself as the premium red, opening the doors to major global markets and becoming the most popular vine for planting in Chile. Today, its 41,000ha account for one third of the country’s vineyards.

Over the past three decades, Chile has been best known for offering excellent value for money, but it is now earning genuine admiration for some of its premium Cabernets and Bordeaux blends.

‘Cabernet Sauvignon has been our speciality for the past 120 years, and now we’re finally able to show it,’ says Aurelio Montes, a pioneer of high-end winemaking in Chile.

The new Cabernet Sauvignon scene in Chile follows a revolution in how terroirs are being identified, resulting in parcels being selected by wineries specifically for premium wines. This is coupled with better vineyard management and more precise, terroir-driven oenology.

All things considered, it’s probably about time to forget what you thought you knew about Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon.

A new chapter

There’s no doubt that Maipo will always be the leading region when it comes to Cabernet in Chile, but Maipo is a big place and, to produce the best, winemakers have to be specific. ‘Until a few years ago, people would just say Maipo, but today we need to be more precise about our vineyards. Maipo isn’t all the same,’ says Marcelo Papa, winemaker at Concha y Toro. ‘For example, in Puente Alto, where our Don Melchor vineyard is, you also find a number of other very important vineyards. It’s our Pauillac. The elegance of the vines there is a class apart from other areas.’

Top-class Cabernet Sauvignons here are generally concentrated in Alto Maipo, in the Andean foothills, where the vineyards begin to climb the slopes. Here, Pirque and Peñalolen are the sub-regions that set the tone. The high altitude and mild climate make for a refined texture among reds, which tend to be tense and linear. ‘Alto Maipo is a place where one can make great wines of elegance and drinkability that used to take years in the bottle to achieve,’ says Rafael Urrejola, who produces Altazor, Undurraga’s star wine, with grapes from Alto Maipo.

Further south, Apalta and Marchigüe have recently burst onto the high-end Cabernet Sauvignon scene, but with more modern profiles. Apalta is a corner of Colchagua where Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted at the foot of the mountains are achieving top results. ‘Cabernet from Apalta has improved a lot in recent years. We’re no longer looking for the potency we sought before; we’re now more interested in the clarity of fruit flavours you can get in the region,’ explains Andrea León, who has just launched a Cabernet Sauvignon for Lapostolle sourced from 100-year-old vines at the Clos Apalta vineyard.

In Marchigüe, the key is the vineyards’ proximity to the Pacific Ocean, where cooler climates, combined with granite soils, give life to Cabernet Sauvignons with sparky red fruit flavours and striking minerality. Prime examples include wines made by Calcu or Dagaz.

Finally, Maule is writing its own new chapter in the history of Chilean Cabernet, especially in Cauquenes, where Odfjell produces a vibrant, refined example ideal for those looking for something off the beaten path.

Argentina: iconic wines

‘Until about 25 years ago, all of Argentina’s iconic wines were Cabernet Sauvignons or Bordeaux blends. We grew up with the flavour of Cabernet held up as what a great wine should be,’ says Andrés Vignoni at Viña Cobos, where special effort has been put into the variety.

In Argentina, about 14,500ha are under vine with the grape (Wines of Argentina), making it the country’s third most cultivated red variety. Many Argentinian oenologists believe that a great wine ought to begin with Cabernet Sauvignon. The goal is to produce single-varietal wines and Bordeaux blends that show the grape at its best.

Distinctive qualities

Cabernet Sauvignon has always developed unique characteristics in Argentina. Vineyards where the variety is grown are planted at anything between 400m and 2,590m above sea level, in a dry, sunny, continental climate. These conditions ensure that the grape can ripen without the greenish pyrazines and fresh herbal notes that can be found in other regions. Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignons thus tend to be overflowing with fruity aromas, have good minerality (thanks to the alluvial soils) and develop a fleshy structure that facilitates longevity.

‘The experience we’ve garnered exploring new regions for Malbec has lent us greater understanding of Cabernet as well, especially its sensitivity,’ says Alejandro Vigil at Catena Zapata. ‘We’ve been able to greatly modify how we manage the vineyards and harvest times to take full advantage of the identity brought by each region.’ The result of these changes can be appreciated in the rising quality of Cabernets from traditional regions, such as Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley in Mendoza and the Calchaquí Valleys in Salta.

Argentina produces three distinct styles of Cabernet Sauvignon that should be of great interest to fans of the Médoc and Napa Valley. Classic profiles can be found in Agrelo and Perdriel in Luján de Cuyo, where the rocky, deep clay soils give rise to silky, chewy wines with a juicy freshness. Excellent examples are produced by Catena Zapata, Viña Cobos, Pulenta Estate and Terrazas de los Andes.

The Uco Valley offers interesting twists on the formula, depending on the composition and altitude of the soils. Tupungato, where vineyards are higher, provides exponents with good body, fruit and herbal depth. Los Arboles, a cool area, produces voluminous textures with sharp acidity, mineral notes and generous helpings of berries.

Finally, La Consulta, to the south of the Uco Valley, has always stood out for its old vines planted in dried rocky river beds. In Cabernet Sauvignons from here, the grape’s characteristic fruitiness is marshalled with flinty vigour.

Further north, the Calchaquí Valleys have long been well known for their Cabernet Sauvignons. Produced from extreme high-altitude vineyards, between 1,650m and 2,590m, the variety takes on a fresh, herbal profile that, when well handled, delivers distinctive wines of exquisite power.

Iglesias’ picks: the wines setting the standard for South American Cabernet Sauvignon

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Inside the October 2021 issue of Decanter Magazine:

SPECIAL – DISCOVER THE AMERICAS:

• Two continents of wine: the main regions and the road less travelled
• Trendsetters, south and north The winemakers pushing boundaries across the Americas. Profiled by Patricio Tapia and Jordan Mackay
• South American Cabernet Sauvignon Argentina and Chile have upped their Cab game. Says Alejandro Iglesias
• Uruguay beyond Tannat A journey beyond the country’s signature red grape, with Amanda Barnes
• Travel: the five US wine states off the beaten track Katie Kelly Bell on the freewheeling spirit of the USA’s lesser-known winemaking states

FEATURES:

• Burgundy: the great vineyards of Montrachet An in-depth look at one of the world’s most extraordinary white wines. By Charles Curtis MW
• Southern Italy: 20 top Primitivo reds The very best that Puglia has to offer, according to Alessandra Piubello

Read the new issue in full on the Decanter Premium app

Unlimited reviews | Exclusive articles | Recommendations | Priority booking | No ads

LEARNING

• Wine wisdom Expert tips to help you explore the fascinating world of wine

SPIRITS

• Distilled Spirits insights and cocktail recipes – plus five top blanco tequilas
• Rye renaissance Adrian Mourby on the whiskey style making a comeback

GOOD LIVING

• A perfect pairing: A Napa burger classic with a French white and red

BUYING GUIDE

• Panel tasting: Argentinian Malbec over £15 From 87 wines tasted, our judges found four Outstanding wines and many Highly Recommended
• Panel tasting: Chilean Pinot Noir 55 wines tasted; varying results, but still some excellent wines to try
• Expert’s choice: Sonoma Chardonnay Ronan Sayburn MS picks 18 wines to suit a range of tastes and pockets
• Weekday wines 25 top picks under £20, chosen by the Decanter team
• Weekend wines 7 top buys, £20-£50

COLLECTORS

• Marketwatch investment news What’s making waves in the market
• Marketwatch spotlight Has the time come to refocus on Bordeaux?

REGULARS

• Meet the experts Decanter’s authors
• Uncorked News, views and more
• Your letters
• Andrew Jefford’s column Pinning down the elusive ‘soil signature’
• Guest column: Randall Grahm What the groundbreaking Bonny Doon winemaker is up to now
• DWWA highlights Winning Albariño/Alvarinho of the world
• Wine to 5: Ursula Thurner The PR professional on life in Italian wine

Inclues Decanter World Wine Awards Supplement:

INTRODUCTION

• DWWA: our biggest year yet Co-Chair Andrew Jefford on fantastic results in difficult and uncertain circumstances
• DWWA by numbers Just 5% of entries took Best in Show, Platinum or Gold
• The judging process Discover how our judging panels conduct the tastings and choose the medal-winning wines
• Meet the experts Introducing our trio of Co-Chairs, 26 Regional Chairs and 141-strong panel of judges

THE WINES

• The Best in Show: wine profiles Full tasting notes and background information on the 50 wines that triumphed over 18,044 others that entered this year’s competition
• The Platinum medal-winning wines Find out more about the 179 wines deemed by our judging panels to be the best in their respective regions
• The Gold medal-winning wines All of the 635 Gold winners, set out alphabetically by region (Silver and Bronze winners can be found here)

SHOPPING

• UK shopper’s guide A selection of the medal-winning wines you can find at supermarkets and high-street wine merchants across the UK

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Amanda Barnes tasted 73 South American Chardonnays with five outstanding and 43 highly-recommended wines.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their most recent release 100% Chardonnay wines produced in any region in South America.

The verdict

Only in the last decade has South American Chardonnay become something to get excited about. But, as this tasting reaffirmed, it really is worth getting excited about – especially at the premium end, with complex and engaging wines coming from the coast, desert, mountains and even the wind-beaten steppes of Patagonia.

This impressive surge in quality is ultimately down to the intellectual journey that South America’s winemakers have been on: from their fastidious research into the multitude of soil types and microclimates (even within the same vineyard) to a much more mature approach to winemaking and an increasingly deft hand when it comes to oak ageing.

My standout Chardonnay producers in this tasting all used oak (barrels and foudres) to frame their wines, but none of the wines were overshadowed by oak as they may have been a decade ago.

Instead, most of the top wines shone for their fruit purity and elegance.

Scroll down for Amanda Barnes’ South American Chardonnay tasting notes and scores

Chilean choice

Chile has the lion’s share of plantings with more than 11,200ha – almost double Argentina’s 6,000ha – and Chile is really South America’s Chardonnay heartland, with plantings spanning its kaleidoscope of wine regions.

Although Chile is often accused of playing it a bit safe with its entry- and mid-range wines, when it comes to the premium end Chile has a buffet of exciting wines and styles to choose from.

From the cloudy, unfiltered natural wine of Tara in the Atacama desert to the intriguing Goutte d’Argent made with sake yeast, and the brash style of Matetic’s wild-ferment EQ Quartz from San Antonio, there was nothing pedestrian about this tasting.

As always, Chile’s cool coastal regions really lead in quality for white wines.

Limarí is the standout region for excellent coastal Chardonnay, with two of my top wines in the tasting, Tabalí’s Talinay and Amelia’s Quebrada Seca, overdelivering in both price and quality with aromatic precision, chalky mentality and chiselled acidity.

Leyda Valley isn’t far behind in top quality either, with Viña Leyda’s Lot 5 standing out for complexity and value; but there were vibrant coastal wines from Casablanca, Colchagua and Curicó, too.

The scores

Wines tasted: 73

Exceptional: 0

Outstanding: 5

Highly Recommended: 43

Recommended: 21

Commended: 4

Fair: 0

Poor: 0

Faulty: 0

Southern promise

From Itata southwards, southern Chile is, in my view, an emerging star for Chardonnay, as the top-scoring wines there (including a cool debut vintage from Francisco Baettig’s private label) aptly demonstrated.

There’s similar potential in Argentine Patagonia, in Chubut, where Otronia is making waves with its vibrant, cool-climate wines.

I would like to have seen more wines from both southern Chile (namely Malleco and Osorno) and southern Argentina (Río Negro and Chubut) in this tasting, as they are hotspots for thrilling cool-climate Chardonnay and regions to keep your eye on. No doubt there’s a big future for Chardonnay in the south of both countries, but the wines remain niche for now.

Seriously Argentina

By and large, the mecca for premium Argentinian Chardonnay is the Uco Valley, where Catena Zapata’s White Stones stole the show in this tasting, followed hot on its heels by Viña Cobos’ Bramare single-vineyard Los Arbolitos. These are ageworthy wines which deserve some cellaring, but the Uco Valley, and especially Gualtallary, is also producing exciting mountain wines at affordable weekday price points that deliver great value and style, with bony minerality and delicately floral, peachy expressions.

Uruguay is also upping its Chardonnay game, and although there are barely 100ha planted, there’s an interesting range of expressions, from the creamy, mouthfilling yet energetic style of Familia Deicas in Garzón to the tangy, Chablis-esque style of Cerro del Toro in Piriapolis.

As one of the great ‘terroir translator’ varieties, Chardonnay in South America is now declaring loud and clear that this diverse continent is ready to demand some well-earned respect for its top-end Chardonnay.

Amanda Barnes’ top rated South American Chardonnay

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In the 15 years that I have worked in wine, I have visited more than 100 countries around the globe. Along the way, I recorded the aromas, colours and amazing flavours of each of the local cuisines that I encountered, alongside some mind-blowing wines. In my new book Wines & Recipes I share these experiences.

The inspiration for this book was my desire to turn the spotlight onto lesser-known grapes and wine styles (as well as some more familiar favourites), paired with delicious recipes. This is not intended as a textbook or manual: it’s a practical guide with information presented in a fun and straightforward manner, placing more emphasis on wine than on food.

Although we all grow up eating food, we don’t all grow up learning about wine. My aim is to share my knowledge of different wine styles, and how best to pair them successfully with food. The good news is that it doesn’t have to be complicated.

My personal approach to food and wine pairing is very simple. My main goal is to enjoy a delicious wine with a tasty recipe. I always start with the wine, and then choose a dish that will match the fruit aromas and flavours that you can find in the wine, and that has a similar body.

Buy the book Wines & Recipes

£30 Amazon UK / £30 Waterstones UK 

Mussel soup recipe

When I was growing up, my aunt Golla influenced me immensely in the kitchen. She taught me that it’s vital to know how to cook, but it’s even more important to have a connection to the ingredients you’re cooking. My family enjoyed this mussel soup at nearly every Sunday lunch.

Serves 2

Time 30 mins

Ingredients

• 1kg mussels in shells
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 white onion, finely sliced
• 1 carrot, peeled & finely diced
• 1 red pepper, julienned
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• a pinch of dried chilli flakes
• a pinch of ground cumin
• a pinch of dried oregano
• 100g long grain rice
• 2 bay leaves
• 100ml whole milk
• 1 egg yolk
• sea salt and black pepper

1. Wash the mussels well, removing the beards and any barnacles. If any are open, give them a sharp tap – if they remain open, discard.

2. Heat a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the mussels. Cover them with 250ml water and bring to the boil. Turn down to a lively simmer, put the lid on, and cook for about 4 minutes, or until the shells have opened. Remove the mussels and set aside, reserving the broth the mussels were cooked in. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened.

3. Heat the olive oil in another saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, red pepper and garlic. Cook gently until the onion is translucent and the vegetables have softened, about 10-15 minutes.

4. While the vegetables are cooking, remove most of the mussels from the shells, reserving a few in the shell for garnish.

5. Add the chilli flakes, cumin and oregano to the cooked vegetables and season with salt and black pepper. Stir to combine, then add the reserved broth, the rice and the bay leaves. Bring to the boil, turn the heat down and simmer for 8-10 minutes until the rice is cooked.

6. Add the milk and egg yolk and stir to incorporate, then add the de-shelled mussels and heat through for another 2-3 minutes.

Serve with a few mussels in their shells placed on the top of each bowl.

Wines to go with mussel soup

Verdelho is an aromatic grape that has extremely high acidity with a mix of citrus, stone fruits and floral notes. When the grapes are allowed to ripen fully, lovely aromas of honeysuckle enhance the wine’s profile. The combination of high acidity and great fruit character will match perfectly with this recipe.

Off-dry Gewurztraminer is a perfumed and full-bodied white wine. With a touch of residual sugar, this has added texture and richness that are balanced by delicious tropical fruits. Lychee notes in particular will pair really well with the spiciness of the mussel soup.

Raul Diaz is the author of Wines & Recipes, published in November 2020 (£30, Merken, www.winetraining.co.uk)

Bordeaux producer Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA decided to start making wine in Chile in the late 1990s.

Known for its three classed growth estates in Paulliac – Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Clerc Milon and Château d’Armailhac – the iconic French producer had already ventured into the New World, creating Opus One in California’s Napa Valley with Robert Mondavi in 1978.

Scroll down for eight Escudo Rojo wine tasting notes and scores

Two decades later, drawn by the potential of Bordeaux red varieties in Chile, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild began a second joint venture with Don Alfonso Larraín of Concha y Toro. Their Franco-Chilean fine wine Almaviva launched in 1997.

Meanwhile the Baroness was looking for a vineyard particularly suited to producing her own high quality Cabernet Sauvignon. She established Escudo Rojo in 1999, with a 60ha vineyard in Maipo Valley, 45km south of Santiago. The name of the winery is the Spanish translation of the German ‘rote schild’ which means ‘red shield’.

Today Escudo Rojo owns 1,020ha both in Maipo and Maule, also sourcing fruit from growers on long term contract in Casablanca and Colchagua Valleys. Emmanuel Riffaud has been in charge of winemaking since 2015. An agricultural engineer and oenologist, he joined Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA in 1999 as part of the Mouton Cadet technical team, before moving to Chile in 2008.

A Frenchman in Chile

‘When I arrived in Chile, I think it was much more with a French head,’ he says. ‘I was thinking that it was a New World country and everything should be easy to do – obviously easier than Bordeaux – so I arrived feeling quite confident. And then I had some surprises.’

Chile has roughly the same viticultural area as Bordeaux. ‘But if you compare the total hectares that you have in Bordeaux with what you have in Chile, the area north to south in Chile is 10 times more; it’s more or less 1,500km and in Bordeaux it’s 150km,’ explains Riffaud.

‘Then I discovered the three strong climate influences, with the Andes Mountains, the Pacific Ocean and the Central Valley. So if you mix north to south, east to west, it’s like a mosaic of the world.’

His early vintages were a steep learning curve that highlighted the differences between viticulture in France and Chile. ‘In France it’s quicker in terms of harvest,’ Riffaud explains. Grapes in Bordeaux vineyards will achieve three stages of maturity – technical, aromatic and phenolic – within 10 days or two weeks. ‘In Chile, it’s sometimes five weeks, sometimes six,’ he says.

‘In the first year, I was more extreme in terms of waiting for the best maturity,’ he admits. ‘In Chile, you can wait and wait and wait for the best phenolic maturity, but you are losing freshness and acidity, and you’re increasing the sugar and the alcohol. We need to have the best compromise between sugar, acidity and phenolic maturity, otherwise the wine is not well balanced.’

This happened when Riffaud delayed the picking date of his first vintage of Carmenère. ‘The wine was very gorgeous, very round, very rich, but after two or three years, the acidity was a little bit too slow, and too low. It wasn’t the right balance.’

Down to earth

At this point Riffaud decided to go back to basics. ‘Because I had a background as an agricultural engineer, I started to focus on the terroir expression,’ he says. Taking a precision viticulture approach, in 2017 he began mapping the vineyards. ‘We looked at the resistivity of the soil to really define micro blocks inside our parcels,’ he explains. This led to a significant shift in winemaking philosophy.

‘The 2018 vintage was really the big move in terms of style change and also philosophy of winemaking,’ says Riffaud, who now aims to find ‘the purest expression of the terroir in each grape variety’.

To that end the winery has also begun the three-year process of organic conversion. ‘In Chile, we have a very good climate, a dry climate, so we can preserve the fruit, without using so many pesticides and herbcides,’ says Riffaud. ‘The grapes are even better without any pesticides because you really have the taste of the fruit.’

This is part of Escudo Rojo’s general move towards greater sustainability, along with installing over 1,500 solar panels on the roof of the winery, which provide around 35% of its energy. ‘Having a green footprint is really important for me in terms of philosophy, because when you are in Chile, you go to the mountains, to the Pacific and you have really beautiful landscapes,’ explains Riffaud.

‘When you are here, you really feel nature and I think making wine you have an obligation to be aligned with nature and to take care of the future.’

In the winery

As well as new solar panels on top of the winery, changes were made inside the winery. A new optical selection machine allows berry by berry selection, after sorting by hand and de-stemming. ‘The optical selection helps us to eliminate green parts that we had before and to have better, purest quality in terms of tannin,’ says Riffaud. After selection, grapes are gravity-fed into fermentation vats to preserve the integrity of the fruit.

The same attention to detail happens during vinification of the wines. ‘I say we have an a la carte vinification, because we taste all the batches every day. We say: “OK, this Cabernet Sauvignon needs a bit more extraction so we’re going to extract even more; this one, well the fruit is really exceptional so let’s be soft on the extraction, to preserve the fruit.”’

The final step was to refine the winery’s oak regime. ‘We reduced the impact of new oak in all the range, by more or less 30%,’ explains Riffaud. ‘We’re using only French oak and we prefer using one-, two- or three-year-old barrels. Also we reduced the toast of the barrels: we [previously] used a medium-plus; now we are using medium and medium-light.’

A new era

As a result of these significant changes in both vineyard and winery, Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva was introduced in 2018. A blend of selected parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, it’s made to age. Escudo Rojo Origine was another new addition to the range from the 2018 vintage, a 100% Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon that embodies Riffaud’s new winemaking philosophy.

The name is a nod to Baroness Philippine’s original search for the ultimate Cabernet terroir when she arrived in Chile in 1996. ‘Cabernet Sauvignon is part of the DNA of the company,’ explains Riffaud. ‘So after 20 years in Chile, we decided to create this wine, which is the origin of our history here in the Maipo terroir with Cabernet Sauvignon.’

In addition Riffaud makes the Escudo Rojo Reserva range of six single varietals: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon. Well priced in their respective markets, they are confident expressions of varietal character.

A new top wine, a tribute to Baroness Philippine who passed away in 2014, has also been released in the US and will be available in the UK later this year. Baronesa P, a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend with Carmenère, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, is aged in new and used French oak for 14 months. It typifies the approach of this Chilean winery with French sensibilities.

‘I’m managing the winemaking process with a French head, thinking OK, it’s a Chilean terroir, but we don’t want to do a copy and paste of other Chilean wine,’ concludes Riffaud. ‘It’s better to continue with our own identity as a French producer, as a French winemaker. It’s Chilean, but with a French touch.’

Escudo Rojo: eight wines to try

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A new wine frontier is being explored in Chile, thanks to a 2ha vineyard established on Easter Island. Also known by its native name, Rapa Nui, the island lies in the middle of the Pacific Ocean in Chilean Polynesia, 3,540km from the coast of Valparaíso and 4,231km from Tahiti.

The vineyard, planted with 3,500 Chardonnay vines and 3,500 Pinot Noir vines, was set up by a group of entrepreneurs, led by agricultural engineer and winemaker Alvaro Arriagada. Other partners in the project are Poki Tane Hao Hey and wine consultant Fernando Almeda, with support from Cristián Moreno Pakarati, a historian from Universidad Católica.

‘Rapa Nui has a subtropical climate, volcanic soils and is strongly influenced by the cold Humboldt current, which differs from the islands located in French Polynesia,’ says Arriagada. ‘With colder waters and less extreme temperatures with lower levels of humidity, it indicates that the growth of the vines for winemaking purposes could develop successfully.’

Rano Kau Volcano vines

Local research proved that vines were first introduced to Rapa Nui by French settlers from Tahiti in French Polynesia. These early vines were planted inside the Rano Kau Volcano, along with bananas, mangos and avocados. Offering protection against the windy conditions on the island, the volcano provided suitable conditions for fruit and vine cultivation.

The vines flourished, as Arriagada and his team discovered when they followed a trekking trail from the base of the volcano to the interior. Inside the crater they found wild vines climbing among the large volcanic rocks.

‘We cut 300 vinestocks from the wild vines found inside Rano Kau Volcano, in different states of growth and maturity, some producing grapes,’ explains Arriagada. ‘We have set up a nursery to evaluate the adaptability and growth. The next challenge is to carry out an ampelography study to find out what the varieties are.’

The nursery is located next to the new vineyard, 8km north of Rano Kau in Pu Ika ta’e Hape. The land chosen for the vineyard site has loam and light soil with a good level of organic matter.

‘I am very excited about this challenge, especially considering the unknown vegetal material and the extreme climatic and soil conditions that generate technical uncertainty – which is something difficult to find after 35 years of experience [working with vines],’ adds Almeda.

The wine history of Southern Chile, particularly the regions of Bío Bío and Itata – one of the country’s oldest wine-growing regions – dates back hundreds of years, yet it is only more recently that the regions of the south are gaining increased recognition, particularly for dry-farmed vineyards and old vines.

‘We’ve tried some wonderful wines from the likes of Malleco, Bío Bío and Itata’ commented Peter Richards MW, Regional Chair for Chile, during Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 judging month. 

‘The reason is, these areas being slightly further south, slightly cooler, slightly rainier, means a longer growing season, and often dry farmed – no irrigation. That’s great because it makes for really elegant, refreshing wines; wines with a sense of place. 

‘That’s really important, thinking in terms of climate change, where places are getting warmer and drier generally, so I think the south has a massive future, and it’s great to see some really good wines coming from there.’

Premium: What’s hot in Chile

Read more – Chile & Argentina: The Rise of Pinot Noir

Tasted and rated at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 by panels of Chilean wine specialists including Peter Richards MW, Alistair Cooper MW, Amanda Barnes, Ben Gubbins and Erik Simonics, discover a selection of 15 award-winning wines from the south…

Itata Valley

White Santa Carolina, Reserva de Familia Chardonnay, Itata Valley 2018

Bronze, 89 points

100% Chardonnay

Ripe red apple and buttery notes on an inviting nose. Savoury palate with a rounded length.

Viña Santa Berta, Riesling, Itata Valley 2017

Bronze, 87 points

100% Riesling

Red apple and blossom notes with a mineral backbone. Lively and aromatic with a firm acidity.

Rosé Concha y Toro, Marques de Casa Concha Cinsault Rosé, Itata Valley 2019

Silver, 90 points

90% Cinsault, 10% Garnacha

Red fruit driven nose with touches of lemon and herbs. Juicy and weighted on the palate with a bright finish.

Miguel Torres, La Causa, Cinsault Rosé, Itata Valley 2019

Bronze, 87 points

100% Cinsault

Strawberry and citrus peel aromas with a floral note. Dry and fresh palate with zippy acidity.

Red Rucahue, Red Blend Family Reserva, Itata Valley 2018

Gold, 95 points

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc

Fresh fruit nose, aromatic green notes and touches of sweet vanilla oak. Pure and racy palate with structured tannin and sour cherry flavours. Concentrated and fresh on the finish.

Longaví, Glup Cinsault, Itata Valley 2018

Silver, 90 points

100% Cinsault

Juicy and vibrant red fruit with herbal and savoury undertones. Refreshing and engaging palate with juicy fruit and lifted acidity.

Rucahue, Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Itata Valley 2016

Bronze, 88 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Lovely pure vibrant cassis and blueberry aromas. Supple tannin and a bright acidity on a warming finish.

Miguel Torres, La Causa, Itata Valley 2018

Bronze, 87 points

62% Cinsault, 23% País, 15% Carignan

Wild red fruit with floral and balsamic hints. Complex and nuanced palate with a juicy finish.

Bío Bío Valley

White Concha y Toro, Marques de Casa Concha Edición Limitada Chardonnay, Bío Bío Valley 2018

Silver, 93 points

100% Chardonnay

Savoury nose of smoke, butter with a lifted green apple underneath. Mouthwatering and attractive palate with some breadth and depth.

Red Viña Indómita, Zarper Gran Reserva Malbec, Bío Bío Valley 2019

Gold, 96 points

100% Malbec

Deep damson and menthol, mint aromas with touches of violet. Structured palate with savoury edges and an upbeat acidity. Elegant and fresh on the finish.

Co-op, Irresistible Malbec, Bío Bío Valley 2018

Bronze, 87 points

100% Malbec

Plummy nose with leafy, vegetal aromas. Grippy tannin and bright acidity on the palate.

Malleco Valley

WhiteBodega Volcanes de Chile, Tectonia Chardonnay, Malleco Valley 2018

Gold, 96 points

100% Chardonnay

Red apple and citrus with buttery notes and a mineral hint of wet stone. Broad and rounded palate with sweet spice and touches of lemon curd. Impressive and still youthful.

RedUndurraga, T.H. Pinot Noir, Traiguén, Malleco Valley 2018

Silver, 94 points

100% Pinot Noir

Cherry blossom and wild herbs with summer berry aromas. Elegant and understated palate with soft fruit and classy structure.

Osorno Valley

WhiteMiguel Torres, Cordillera de Los Andes Sauvignon Blanc, Osorno Valley 2018

Silver, 90 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

White fruit and a hint of honey and a gooseberry tang. Pure and upbeat on the nose with nettley acidity.

Secano Interior

Red Viña Carmen, Loma Seca Cinsault, Secano Interior 2019

Bronze, 86 points

100% Cinsault

Sour cherry and plum nose with hints of perfume. Solid structure with dense fruit profile.

Search all DWWA 2020 award-winning wines from Chile

Decanter World Wine Awards home

Viña Errázuriz was founded by Don Maximiano Errázuriz in 1870, when he planted the first French grape varieties in the Aconcagua Valley in Chile.

Today Eduardo Chadwick, the fifth generation of the family, is the winery’s president. Errázuriz now owns vineyards in the Casablanca and Curicó Valleys, as well as Aconcagua; and produces a varied range of over 35 wines.

Scroll down for a selection of recently-tasted Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve tasting notes and scores

In 2020, which proved a challenging year for Chile’s winemakers, Errazuriz celebrated its 150th anniversary. Decanter joined Francisco Baettig, head winemaker at Viña Errázuriz since 2003, for a vertical tasting of the winery’s icon Viña Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve.

‘Don Maximiano is a classical wine; one of the first premium wines from Chile. But it’s been under the shadow of Seña,’ says Baettig, referring to the celebrated joint venture wine created by Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi in 1995.

Originally launched in 1983 as a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine, aged in beech vats rather than oak, the style of Don Maximiano has evolved over the years. ‘This vertical tasting shows the evolution of Don Maximiano, but also the evolution of Chile over the last 30 years,’ comments Baettig.

Chile’s evolving wine scene

The 1980s witnessed the beginning of a winemaking revolution in Chile, with the development of the international market and the introduction of new technology. This was the decade when Eduardo Chadwick joined his father Alfonso at Viña Errazuriz, prompting a focus on producing quality and terroir wines with the arrival of the winery’s first French oak barrels.

By the 2000s Chile had become one of the world’s largest exporters of wine. But this success was a double-edged sword, according to Baettig. ‘In the 1990s we planted a lot, everywhere. We wanted to produce because we were successful in export, but we made mistakes in this approach.’

Subsequently the winery has researched clone selection, exploring cooler areas and planting the right vines in the right place. It pioneered plantings in Aconcagua Costa (coast), which became an appellation in 2010. In the same year the ultra-modern, gravity-flow Don Maximiano Icon winery was opened to produce Errazuriz’s top-end wines.

In the vineyard

The Don Maximiano vineyard is located in the Aconcagua Valley and has a Mediterranean climate, with a long, dry growing season and moderately warm summer days. This enables long ripening periods, helped by cooling Pacific breezes in the evenings.

The oldest plots in the Don Maximiano vineyard are Max I, Max II and Max V. ‘Vine age is very important,’ notes Baettig. ‘Root systems need to develop; young vines perform very differently to old vines.’

Max I, Max II and Max V, all planted on north- or northeast-facing slopes on coarse alluvial soils. In addition Max I has igneous rocks, sandy loam and a significant amount of mica; while Max II has sandy/clay loam and angular stones. Max V, situated near the Aconcagua River, has rounded stones, contributing towards its excellent drainage. ‘The fruit from Max V gives round and fat tannins and lovely aromas,’ explains Baettig.

‘In the last 10 years we have worked a lot with a technical team in order to better understand the terroir in Aconcagua,’ says Baettig. Recent work with geologist Françoise Vannier-Petit to analyse the Max vineyards has led to a reassessment of the wine. ‘We’ve fine-tuned the style to create more balance and freshness.’

In the winery

A vertical tasting of the 2017, 2013, 2006 and 1989 vintages of Don Maximiano perfectly illustrated the evolution of winemaking style. The 1989 was strikingly different from modern-day incarnations of the wine: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in beech vats for five to seven months and with a modest abv of 12%.

Don Maximiano remained a 100% Cabernet wine until 2004, when it became a blend with Carménère and Cabernet Franc. Subsequently the blend has broadened to also include Malbec and Petit Verdot in different proportions, depending on the year.

The 2006 was made up of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, destemmed and fermented in stainless steel, then aged for 18 months in new French oak. ‘In 2006 we were trying to produce luscious, rich wines in response to the market,’ explains Baettig.

‘We started to change the style little by little, probably from 2010 onwards,’ he continues. ‘We built the icon winery in 2009, which was first used in 2010, the year of the earthquake.’

By the 2013 vintage, the oak regime had changed, with the wine spending 22 months in French oak, 65% new and 35% second-use. The blend contained less was Cabernet Sauvignon (77%) along with 10% Malbec, 6% Carménère and 5% Petit Verdot. ‘Malbec is a very nice variety, it adds floral notes, a little bit of violet,’ says Baettig.

‘For me the big change really happened in 2014, 2015, when we moved to earlier picking,’ he adds. ‘In the past, we were obsessed by concentration and ripeness and avoided any hint of balsamic character. Today, I think Cabernet, Carménère, they naturally have a little balsamic character; it’s OK.’

He concludes: ‘I want to have ripe, round, elegant, tannins, but at the same time I want to avoid the excess of sweet finish that is a bit heavy, and to have a refreshing acidity. This is the style that we aim for.’

The current, 2017, release of Don Maximiano has 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 12% Malbec, 8% Carménère, 7% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Again the oak treatment has been tweaked: 22 months in French oak, 65% new.

Read on for scores and tasting notes of these four wines and other vintages of Don Maximiano.

See a selection of recently-tasted Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve tasting notes and scores

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Wine Legend: Seña 1997, Aconcagua, Chile

• Bottles produced 30,000
• Composition 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Carmenère
• Yield 35hl/ha
• Alcohol 13.5%
• Release price $60
• Price today £112

A legend because…

Robert Mondavi had a knack for forming distinguished joint ventures far from his native California. During his first trip to Chile in 1991, he met Eduardo Chadwick; the first vintage of their new label, Seña, was in 1995, a year before a comparable joint venture, Almaviva, was created by Concha y Toro and Mouton-Rothschild. However, the first wine from the dedicated Seña vineyard was not produced until 2001. From the beginning the wine showed a more European, indeed French influence and polish than Californian weight and brashness. Because of changes in the Mondavi wineries’ structure and ownership, Chadwick bought its 50% share in 2004.

Looking back

The first vintage of Errazuriz’s Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve Cabernet, arguably Chile’s first ‘icon’ wine, was in 1983, so the development of the Seña label was a natural progression. Viñedo Chadwick would follow in 1999. In 2004, Eduardo Chadwick organised a blind tasting in Berlin, pitching his Cabernets against the best-known versions from Europe, including Bordeaux first growths. Seña took an honourable second place to Viñedo Chadwick. Similar tastings would take place in Asia and New York, again with gratifying results. Chadwick’s aim was not just to promote his own wines, but to ally Chilean reds with some of the world’s most admired wines.

The vintage

The early part of the growing season was cool, but then it warmed up considerably. Before harvest there were alternating periods of heat and cool, foggy weather, which brought some concerns about rot. However, by the time of harvest the weather was dry, although heat spikes retarded maturation so that the harvest was not completed until mid-April. Yields were moderate because of drought conditions.

The terroir

The Seña vineyard was planted from 1998 and occupies 42ha on a hillside in Ocoa, Aconcagua – home to the Errazuriz estate. The site has been farmed biodynamically since 2005. However, the grapes for this vintage were sourced from various parcels, the oldest vines being 26 years old.

The wine

The handpicked grapes were fermented at moderate temperatures in stainless steel tanks with pumpovers. For this vintage the winemakers were Irene Paiva and Edward Flaherty. The wine was aged in 43% new barriques for 16 months, as the team wasn’t aiming for a conspicuously oaky style. Later vintages were given longer ageing in entirely new French oak. The 1997 was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, although by 2004 some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot had been added to the blend.

The reaction

James Molesworth, in Wine Spectator, assessed the wine in 2000: ‘High-toned, stylish Cab that’s robed in cedar, mineral, smoke, iron and currant flavours. It’s plush yet sophisticated, and the structure is finely grained… showing more elegance than previous vintages of Seña.’

In 2012, The Wine Advocate’s Neal Martin said: ‘The 1997 Seña… is endowed with more fruit concentration [than the 1996], with baked black cherries, strawberry, orange peel and dried tobacco that attest to a warmer vintage… plenty of mocha-tinged black fruit with a crisp acidic bite on the finish, although it does not have great length or authority. The nose is showing better than the palate here.’

Putting it into the context of a vertical tasting, Martin added: ‘While I understand that older vintages have their share of plaudits, I discerned more complexity and vitality as well as finer integration of oak on newer vintages, as if more thought had gone into the wines. The result can be seen in the wines themselves, in particular the outstanding 2010.’

In 2018, Jancis Robinson noted: ‘Dark blackish garnet. Very mellow mature nose. Warm and welcoming with only the freshness of Carmenère on the palate suggesting Chilean origins. Finishes a little suddenly but very correct and refreshing.’

See all Wine Legends here

Sauvignon Blanc is a firm fixture on Chile’s wine scene, being the country’s most widely planted white grape variety. Once largely confined to the Central Valley heartlands of Curicó and Maule, Sauvignon Blanc plantings can now be found right across Chile’s wine map, from the Atacama desert down to the deep south, with vineyards located in Andean heights and on the Pacific coast.

‘Traditionally, Chilean Sauvignon sits somewhere between what might be termed the “classic” extrovert New Zealand style and the more restrained Old World iterations,’ explains Peter Richards MW, author of The Wines of Chile, DWWA Regional Chair for Chile and Chairman of the Decanter Retailer Awards.

‘These days, you can find everything from invigorating yet subtle styles (often from northern territories like Limarí or Huasco) to tangy, pungent versions (Elqui), or the broad, spicy intensity of San Antonio. Casablanca does everything from easygoing styles (valley floor and east) to more aromatic, citric, complex examples from its more coastal westerly hillsides,’ he adds.

Importantly, Chile can also deliver great value across the board. Try these bottles selected by the Decanter team from recent tastings.

Get more great Chilean wine recommendations in the Decanter October 2020 issue, our South America special, on sale now. 

Great value Sauvignon Blanc wines from Chile:

See also: 

Decanter Premium: What’s hot in Chile

Twenty top Sauvignon Blancs from around France

Best Aldi wines to try

As results for the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards near – due on 22 September on Decanter.com – a look back at the 2019 results highlights Pinot Noir’s improving quality and continued potential.

DWWA 2020 Regional Chairs Peter Richards MW and Paz Levinson look to Chile and Argentina for ever-improving quality and a continuous exploration of terroir. Where red varieties such as Malbec, Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive, there is still room for discovery, and Pinot Noir is just coming into its own.

Peter Richards MW, returning DWWA 2020 Regional Chair for Chile comments, ‘Chile is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic and exciting wine scenes on the planet right now. It’s almost impossible to keep pace with the burgeoning diversity and quality – that’s what makes it exciting to judge and catch up on at DWWA.’

‘Progress isn’t always linear, though’ continues Richards. ‘Pinot Noir is a grape that everyone got excited about before realising how hard it was to make really well. Only now, after a couple of decades of serious Pinot ambition, are we starting to see world class examples emerging. But how exciting they are…’

On Argentina, Paz Levinson, new DWWA 2020 Regional Chair for Argentina says, ‘What I love about Argentina is the unique character that the wines have. I love the creativity of the winemakers, their curiosity and endless explorations.

‘We don’t have a tradition that imposes a unique style, so we are quite free to explore what the terroirs of Argentina can give. Today we can identify different terroirs while tasting and have a deep understanding of the great wines Argentina is making, and at very competitive prices.’

Read more: DWWA 2020 Interview with Paz Levinson on Argentina

The 17th Decanter World Wine Awards judging month highlights

Ahead of judging at DWWA Levinson adds, ‘This is a very special year. It is not only challenging for the judges, but also for the wines. I’m looking forward to tasting all of the wines that have been stored over some extra months; this will give roundness and balance to many of them. For Argentina this will be beneficial.’

Results for the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards, including Pinot Noir from Chile and Argentina, will be available on Decanter.com from 22 September.

DWWA 2019: Top Pinot Noir wines from Argentina and Chile

Condeminal, Poncho Pampa Crianza, Tupungato, Argentina 2018

96 points, Gold

N/A UK #condeminal

Tobacco, earthy and floral nose with flavours of ripe red fruits, forest floor and resinous herbs. Fairly resolved for how young it is, with chalky tannins and refreshing acidity. Great development potential. Brilliant wine! Alc 13.5%

Undurraga, Trama, San Antonio, Chile 2016

96 points, Gold

POA Hallgarten Wines

Now this is special! herbs. The palate is perfectly pitched, boasting a core of vibrant energy, simultaneously crunchy and gently bittersweet. Food-friendly with great potential for development. Alc 13.5%

Casablanca, Nimbus Single Vineyard, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016

95 points, Gold

N/A UK www.casablancawinery.com

Seductive aromatics of wild herb, toasty warm spice and sappy red fruit lead to a palate dressed with elegant summer fruit and a pristine acidity. Alc 14%

Cono Sur, Ocio, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016

94 points, Silver

£42 Penistone Wine Cellars

Opulent and inviting with notes of coffee, raspberry compote and toast, while bittersweet red fruit and pepper shape the palate. Alc 13.9%

Apaltagua, Colección Limited Edition, San Antonio, Chile 2017

91 points, Silver

£17.95 (2016) Waddesdon Wines

Heady with opulent bramble, red rose floral notes and woodsmoke on the nose, spiced vanilla and plump dark cherry on the palate. Alc 14%

Atamisque, Serbal, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina 2018

91 points, Silver

£14.55-£15.90 Christopher Piper, Drinkmonger, Fortnum & Mason, Jaded Palates, Master of Malt, Speciality Drinks, Starmore Boss, Taste Argentina, Vegan Wine Box

Vibrant red fruits and red flowers jump out of the glass, followed by juicy sweet fruit on the palate – cranberry, pomegranate, raspberry and strawberry. Long, aciddriven finish. Very drinkable. Alc 13.5%

Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017

91 points, Silver

£16.80 ABS Wine Agencies

Shows plush, sappy redcurrant and raspberry aromatics, while the bittersweet red-fruit palate is framed with a bright, neat acidity. Alc 13.7%

Marks & Spencer, Tierra Y Hombre, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2018

91 points, Silver

£7 Marks & Spencer

Herbaceous and lifted, with leafy herb-tinged red fruit and resin leading to a palate filled with crunchy fruit and heady smoke. Alc 13.5%

Salentein, Finca La Pampa Lot Series Barrel Selected, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2017

91 points, Silver

N/A UK www.bodegasalentein.com

High-quality oak is apparent on the nose and is well integrated on the palate which explodes with cherries, strawberries and cranberries, followed by a long, sweet, vinous finish. Alc 13.5%

DWWA 2019: 90-point Pinot Noir from Argentina & Chile

Alto de Casablanca, Ritual, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

£14.50-£16 Elicite, Oddbins, Soho Wine Supply

Lifted and inviting aromatics of darktoned cherry and lifted florals, while the bright palate is brimming with smooth red berries. Alc 13.5%

Cono Sur, 20 Barrels El Triángulo Estate, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

£16 Ocado, Tesco

Heady with perfumed layers of bold, dark raspberry and lifted herbal aromas, while the savoury palate is laced with fresh, juicy fruit. Alc 14.3%

Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

£16-£18 Banstead Vintners, Cheers, Dulwich Vintners, Kingsgate Wines, The Oxford Wine Co

Delicate and restrained aromas of red cherry, woodsmoke and lush strawberry lead through to a crunchy, bittersweet summer-fruit palate. Alc 13.5%

Falernia, Gran Reserva, Elqui Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

N/A UK www.falernia.com

Sappy, with earthy redcurrant and hot cherry fruit on the nose, dried floral notes, while the smoky palate is laced with tense sour cherry. Alc 14%

Familia Schroeder, Saurus Select, Patagonia, Argentina 2018

90 points, Silver

£15.65-£19.99 Exel, Liquorice, Taurus Wines

Streaming with red fruits – strawberry, cherry and cranberry – with a focused acid backbone and crunchy texture. Very rich, tasty and enjoyable. Alc 14%

Morrisons, Single Vineyard, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2015

90 points, Silver

£10 Morrisons

Heady, lifted aromas of herbal red summer fruit lead on to a savoury palate that’s underpinned by fresh, cleansing acidity. Alc 13.5%

Ventisquero, Herú, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016

90 points, Silver

£23.99 Soho Wine Supply

Sophisticated aromatics of baked cherry and pepper, softly spiced palate with bright high-toned raspberry. Alc 13.5%

See all results from DWWA 2019

The only thing that is constant, Greek philosopher Heraclitus reminds us, is change. The Chilean wine industry seems to be taking this maxim to extremes – a wine scene seemingly stuck on fast-forward, buckled into a thrilling rollercoaster ride of discovery, exploration, reinvention and experimentation.

So when Gillmore winemaker Andrés Sánchez tells me that ‘the idea is to change the Chilean wine scene completely in the next 30 years’, it doesn’t sound far-fetched. It sounds exciting.

Change is evident in many aspects of Chilean life. This year is the 10-year anniversary of the massive earthquake of 2010, and 2020 has been marked not just by Covid-19 but also protests at social inequality.

The younger generation, who never knew military rule under Pinochet, are starting to make their voices heard in what is a largely conservative society. Earthquakes in Chile come in both geological and metaphorical form, and the appetite for change is also spurring winemakers on to new heights.

On a recent trip to Chile – one of many over the past three decades – I did things I’d never imagined. Like sitting down with an indigenous Mapuche leader to discuss the progress of his Pinot Noir. Viewing a new vineyard on the slopes of an ominously smoking volcano. Mulling a project to establish commercial wine-growing on Easter Island (it’s still early days, but you never know). Taking a boat to a tiny island off Chiloé, in Chile’s deep south, to visit a pioneering vineyard planted with the likes of Albarino, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Tasting a wine grown in a prison (thank you, Viña Capitán Pastene). Earnestly discussing sake yeast, flor, skin contact, field blends, carbonic fermentation for Chardonnay, and ‘Chilean Chartreuse’.

Enough, in short, to make anyone’s head spin. The sheer enthusiasm and ambition, though, is infectious. ‘We’re not Bordeaux,’ smiles Aurelio Montes Jr. ‘We’re not stuck with tradition. We need to innovate and take risks.’

Social project

One producer taking a notable step outside its comfort zone is Viña San Pedro Tarapacá (VSPT). One of Chile’s winemaking behemoths, also owner of Viña Leyda, the group has been slowly but surely shifting its trajectory in recent years. Sustainability has been a focus – and this has led to one particular initiative that could be a game-changer in Chile.

Buchahueico is a place deep in the Malleco region in southern Chile. It’s also a Mapuche community that, thanks to VSPT and government grants, is now growing 15ha of impeccable Pinot Noir vineyards and making the striking Tayu brand.

Historically, the indigenous Mapuche people were largely disenfranchised by the Chilean state in the 19th century, after fiercely (and successfully) resisting incursions into their lands in southern Chile for several centuries. Ongoing social unrest has ensued, aimed largely at the Carabineros (police force) and big forestry companies, while many younger Mapuche have left their homelands for city life.

VSPT’s Buchahueico project is an attempt to set a precedent for change. ‘Our mission is to use wine as a tool to help the country understand the richness and potential of the Mapuche culture,’ enthuses experienced viticulturist Pedro Izquierdo, who is leading the project along with VSPT’s Juan Cury, Viña Leyda winemaker Viviana Navarrete, and Buchahueico family member Juan Curín.

‘It’s using wine as a tool for social disruption,’ Izquierdo continues. ‘We Chileans are proud of our culture. And we’re all very aware of our historic debt: we want to right the wrongs. We wanted to do something with real social impact.’

The aim of the project is to partner the local community in establishing a viable wine-growing and, ultimately, winemaking operation that can stand alone without external input or aid. To this end, establishment costs are loans to be repaid as VSPT buys the fruit, which is contracted for 10 years. The vines are planted in 2.5ha blocks, each managed by an individual family within the Buchahueico community – ‘to keep things on a human scale’, says Navarrete.

‘This was a land of conflict,’ says a quietly spoken Juan Curín, whose family were the first to establish a vineyard in the community. ‘The sense of struggle and resentment was strong. But now this project is helping relieve the pain.’ His father, Juan Daniel, adds: ‘This is helping heal our wounds – it’s like a reparation for the sufferings of the past.’

It was a moving moment sitting with several families, in an impeccably tended vineyard, tasting the fruit of such a significant initiative. Navarrete commented on the lessons she and the VSPT have learned from the Mapuche, including an emphasis on caring for the natural environment and the significant role of women in work. Of course, long-term success is not a given and much will depend on how the project beds in over time and the traction it generates. But, as Izquierdo comments: ‘This is sustainability in action.’

Southern scene

What also bodes well for the Buchaheico project is the momentum building behind the south of Chile as a credible winemaking force. In Chile, the simplistic generalisation is that north means hot and dry, while south means cool and wet (the country’s feet rest in icy Antarctic territory). As the climate slowly warms up, and the nation struggles with a protracted water shortage, producers are increasingly looking south. The process has been slow because the country’s historic wine heartlands are in central Chile, easily accessible from the capital Santiago (home to about 40% of the population, including many winemakers and owners). The south is a long way away. But an increasing number of pioneers are making the move, to excellent effect.

Perhaps the most striking recent project in the south has been that of Montes. In recent years, this hitherto stalwart of the traditional, Colchagua-based Chilean winemaking scene has edged increasingly into marginal territory (its Outer Limits line being one example). Then, in 2018, Montes took its biggest leap yet – planting a vineyard on the tiny island of Añihue, off the eastern coast of Chiloé, well to the south of most existing vineyard sites and previously known principally for its potatoes, moveable houses and colourful mythology.

‘This isn’t outer limits, it’s beyond the limits,’ grins Aurelio Montes Jr, as we survey the spindly vines with crushed shells at their base, lying just a few metres from the Añihue shoreline. He explains how others have tried to make wine work here, but Montes studied climate, exposure, water temperature, wind and soils in detail before planting 2ha in a sheltered site with warm exposure. There are plans to install winemaking operations on the island, though Montes is taking things slowly. He’s currently dependent on one local tractor, available only sporadically given it’s based on the adjacent island and the tide is only low enough for crossing once every three weeks.

Montes thinks Riesling and sparkling wine styles have the best potential on Añihue. ‘This is a project that demands patience,’ he says. ‘It may work or it may not. But we have to try, and the plants look healthy. This is an adventure, it’s magical. The south is the future of Chile.’

Special place

Further endorsement of this assertion comes in the form of Sebastián and Marco De Martino’s new vineyard on the slope of the active Villarrica volcano near Pucón. After buying the property in 2014 and establishing experimental plantings, the brothers now have more than 2ha planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. They view this ‘cool- climate Etna’ as a ‘long-term, life project’.

Trapi del Bueno is making exciting Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir from its steep hillsides (including some handmade terraces) at La Unión, near Osorno. ‘It’s another world here,’ comments winemaker Rodrigo Romero. ‘We don’t believe in signature wines; we want to make wines of the place. It’s a special place.’ He explains how ‘the south has the potential to democratise Chilean wine’, given that set-up costs make it accessible to new entrants and smaller players.

Francisco Baettig, long-time winemaker at Errázuriz, has set up his own exciting venture in Traiguén, Malleco. ‘My idea is to do Burgundy in Traiguén – wines that are Chilean but with a tension and finesse,’ he tells me as we stroll through his neat Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines, planted in lands first settled by his ancestors after emigrating from Switzerland in 1884. To say these wines are hotly anticipated is an understatement. Baettig has form with crafting superb Chilean Pinot and Chardonnay (the Las Pizarras brand from Errázuriz is a case in point). What’s more, the likes of Viña Aquitania’s Sol de Sol and Alto las Gredas have already shown the potential of this area for making serious, structured styles of Chardonnay. Baettig’s first wines are testament to his skill and the region’s potential, and are already setting a new standard for Burgundian styles in Chile.

There is much else of note in southern Chile, including Casa Silva’s beautiful Lago Ranco project with its finely etched Riesling and characterful Fervor fizz. Sparkling wine seems to have the potential to be one of the south’s signature styles, given the quality evident in the likes of Trapi del Bueno, Ribera Pellín and La Ronciere’s promising Selva Oscura brand.

Experimental winemaking

The development of Chile’s sparkling scene ties in with a wider trend of experimental, new-wave winemaking, which the country is embracing enthusiastically. Tasting Ribera del Lago’s Arcillas de Laberinto Riesling 2019, aged under flor in amphora in pre-Andean Maule, is a breathtaking experience; the wine thick with salty, apple-rind complexity, piercing woodsmoke and vivid citric flavours. ‘Like chewing on quartz’ was the best metaphor I could muster. But it’s not an outlier in terms of experimental winemaking in the country.

From an altogether more establishment player, Carmen’s Florillón Semillon is also an impressive wine aged under a yeast veil ‘that does liposuction on the wine’, according to its maker Emily Faulconer, meaning it is ‘leaner and sharper’. Viña Marty, meanwhile, is using sake yeast to enable cool ferments and longer lees ageing, for extra structure. Whites using skin contact are now common in Chile. Witness Luis Felipe Edwards, Massoc, Morandé, Santa Rita, TerraNoble, Viña Capitán Pastene, Zaranda, along with pioneers in the modern era, De Martino. Santa Carolina is even making a superb ‘carbonic maceration skin-contact’ Chardonnay – labelled vinificación no tradicional and only sold locally.

The use of large clay amphorae (known as tinajas) is also commonplace, alongside the now seeming omnipresence of concrete eggs and large wooden vats or foudres. Atacalco matures its impressive Cárabe Pinot Grigio in amphora, while VIK goes one step further, making its tinajas from clay sourced on its own estate, to reinforce ‘the taste of our terroir’, as winemaker Cristián Vallejo puts it. Even raulí, the beech wood traditionally used for Chilean winemaking vats, is being revived by Piedra Nativa, Pisador and Viña Mardones.

A new elegance

Perhaps one of the most heartening trends, though, is the ongoing reinvention and refinement of Chilean classics. In the past, too many Chilean Cabernets, Carmenères, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs have been identikit, recipe-led, often overly mature, impressive but ultimately bland concoctions that have done the country little service. It started with just a few of the hitherto more conservative Chilean companies, but what began as a trickle is now a torrent of infinitely more refreshing, elegant, nuanced wines.

They don’t come bigger in Chile than Concha y Toro but, tasting the Marqués de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 or the Terrunyo Carmenère 2018 is like discovering a new world of elegance and precision, where before the accent was on power and heft. ‘We’re trying to be more honest with Carmenère,’ comments head winemaker Marcelo Papa. ‘If it has some greenness, that’s OK, we’re more relaxed as winemakers now.’

It’s a similar story with Santa Rita’s 2018 Carmenères from Floresta to Pewën, or its Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2017. Santa Carolina is broaching ‘new frontiers with Cabernet’, according to winemaker Andrés Caballero, with its Dolmen, grown on a Cachapoal hillside. Montes’ Purple Angel Carmenère 2017 is its first year with deleafing during flowering, no bleeding [of free-run juice] and less oak, all aimed at promoting freshness and elegance – to excellent effect. Others including Altaïr, Odfjell, Viu Manent and many more are all working to the same commendable ends.

A standout project in this regard is La Ronciere’s Idahue Estate in Licantén. Built on rocky soils in the cooler reaches of the coastal hills in Curicó, this site is making the kind of new-breed, elegant reds to which Chile should be aspiring. Its Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Carmenère are particularly impressive: ageworthy, finely etched reds that are immensely classy and exciting. ‘We’re opening up a new Chile, broadening the horizons,’ smiles winemaker Juan Muñoz.

Chile is becoming a wine nation less ready to make compromises to suit the market, and more assertive of its own identity. As Bouchon winemaker Christian Sepúlveda says: ‘We’re trying to express the place. If you like it, great. If you don’t, we’re not going to change it.’

The wines are relentlessly intriguing as a result. VIK’s Vallejo sums it up well: ‘A good wine asks you questions. When I make a wine, I write it like a story. Each glass should be a chapter, each sip a page. It has to keep changing, capturing your attention and entertaining you.’ The book of Chilean wine is well worth a read.

Chilean trailblazers: Peter Richards’ dozen

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