Born in 1925, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing grew up in Bordeaux’s Médoc region, daughter of Edouard-François Miailhe and Victoria-Charlotte Desbarats.

Her family ties to wine ran deep. Her father and uncle revived her grandfather’s brokerage business after World War I, investing in the region when confidence and sales were low.

They bought and ran Bordeaux estates including Château Palmer, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

‘I grew up among the vines – I learned by listening to my father and uncle,’ May-Eliane recalls. ‘I have loved everything about grapes and wine since I was a child. It’s in my blood.’

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 12 superb wines from Glenelly

Family influence

Her Bordeaux was one scarred by the vine-root louse phylloxera, two world wars and low demand.

‘I understood not just the wines but the climatic problems and economic uncertainties as well. I knew difficult times – for the wines and the markets.’

In the 1940s, May-Eliane’s university studies were cut short by her father, who decided she should work in the family office in Bordeaux city, where she learned business, teamwork and management.

An admired yet authoritarian figure, her father was to prove a key influence in her life, although her paternal uncle Louis – more relaxed, less controlling – and her four grandparents also shaped her early interests, between them instilling a love of soils and a passion for conversation, music and literature that would stay with her all her life.

In early May 1948, May-Eliane was introduced to Captain Hervé de Lencquesaing, and her father arranged for them to be married just six weeks later.

She left Bordeaux aged 23 for a life as an army wife, seemingly never to return to the gravel croupes, bustling chais and stately châteaux of her youth.

Return to Pichon Comtesse

Her years with Captain de Lencquesaing were eventful beyond wine, and included time in the USA which she enjoyed immensely, finding great warmth and intelligence in the post-war Midwest.

He retired as a general in 1974, and they were ready for a settled life in Pas-de-Calais in northern France, where May-Eliane was engaged in local politics.

But there was still the issue of her father’s estate.

After nearly 20 years in probate (he died in 1959, aged 61), the inheritance included châteaux, a Champagne house, real estate in Paris and tracts of Landes woodland.

‘The most iconic lot, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Pauillac, fell to me through the luck of the draw,’ May-Eliane recalls. ‘It was precisely what I had hoped to avoid, knowing the responsibility it entailed.’

It was far from her only challenge. ‘I was the first woman,’ she says. ‘There was no one else.’

Corinne Mentzelopoulos had not yet joined Château Margaux; Philippine de Rothschild would not arrive at Château Mouton Rothschild for another decade.

The Médoc wine world was profoundly hostile to the idea of a woman in charge. ‘I had to rely not on truthful men but on the men who lied to me the least,’ she recalls. Her experience in French politics helped, however.

‘In their eyes, I knew nothing. When I joined their conversations, they would stop talking. But when they realised I wasn’t going away, they had no choice but to accept me.’

Work ethic

May-Eliane recognised the need to study modern winemaking if she was to earn respect in the Médoc, and aged 53, she enrolled at Bordeaux University, studying under Professors Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon.

‘I was in Pichon, leaving at 6am for classes, returning at 6pm to work on the administration,’ she says.

Her wines enjoyed great commercial and critical success, from the inaugural 1978 onwards, and she engaged in an intense programme of travel and tasting. ‘I was the one presenting the wines, pulling the cork. It was important that I was there,’ she insists.

But away from her husband and family, she struggled.

‘I was anxious and terribly lonely. My children did not understand my work at all. They thought I was having fun, living in a beautiful château, having dinner parties. My family did not support me; neither did my neighbours in Bordeaux.’

Eventually, General de Lencquesaing joined her in the Médoc, and Pichon Comtesse became a key property in the story of Bordeaux’s renewal in the 1980s.

She was hands-on and in charge of every detail, bringing to bear the fortitude and attention to detail of an army wife with the work ethic and business acuity of her father and uncle.

‘I knew how the flowering had been, and the budding and the maturation. I was never in Arcachon [on the nearby coast] in the summer like everyone else.’ She soon gained the epithet La Générale.

In this busy period she was the recipient of many honours and awards, and at the age of 69 was chosen as the 1994 Decanter Woman of the Year (since renamed the Decanter Hall of Fame award).

No one could have known then that, a decade later, she would be embarking on a new project on the other side of the world, or that she would subsequently be celebrating the conclusion of the 2025 harvest with her winemaking team at Glenelly, in Stellenbosch, at the age of 100.

Uprooting

By the early 2000s, despite its success, the future of Château Pichon Comtesse was uncertain.

The family’s jewel since 1925 (by chance, the same year as May-Eliane’s birth), it was to be sold in a move that surprised many.

‘It was a very difficult decision,’ she says. ‘My son Hughes could have taken it on, but he and his wife decided to stay in Paris. My daughter Violaine had an excellent palate but did not have a relationship with the workers.’

May-Eliane’s respect for her staff at Pichon was a crucial aspect of her time there.

‘If I have been successful it is because I always had a strong relationship with the workers. I would fly back from Chicago or Los Angeles and I would see them in the pouring rain in the vineyard, soaking wet and covered in mud.

‘I was full of admiration. “Thank you for doing the work you do,” I told them, “I’m going to tell you about the work I have been doing.” We talked. I knew them, I knew their families.’

Pichon Comtesse was finally sold to the Roederer Champagne group in 2006, and subsequently May-Eliane was able to devote herself to the development of the Glenelly estate in South Africa, which she had purchased in 2003.

Prior to this, May-Eliane’s first venture beyond Bordeaux had been a collaboration with Washington state’s Château Ste Michelle in the 1990s, though she withdrew from the proposed arrangement when the parent company demanded a fixed annual production volume in the contract.

Glenelly, Mandela & the Huguenots

As president of the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) in the 1990s, May-Eliane met many South African winemakers who were winning trophies with their Bordeaux blends, and Nelson Mandela’s victory in the nation’s 1994 presidential elections deeply moved her.

Her successor at the IWSC, Anton Rupert, a major name in South African wine, urged her to consider the Cape for her new project, pointing out its French Huguenot roots.

‘I told him I couldn’t start planting a vineyard at my age. He said, “Do it in honour of Mandela.” So I did.’

She chose Glenelly in Stellenbosch’s Simonsberg zone (pictured, above), drawn to its decomposed granite soils, varied slopes and reliable water supply – a foresight that proved crucial given the challenges of drought in the Cape winelands.

Though it had previously been planted with vines, Glenelly was a fruit farm when she bought it, and this allowed her to start from scratch with the knowledge she had gained in Bordeaux.

She hired young winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain as cellar master and (much to his surprise) retained long-time agronomist Heinrich Louw, whose deep understanding of the estate she knew would prove invaluable.

Now living in Switzerland, May-Eliane still travels to Glenelly for several months each year. With her grandchildren helping in its running, it’s likely to remain in family hands.

In 2022, Dirk van Zyl took over as cellar master, maintaining important winemaking tenets such as wild yeast fermentation, while taking the bold move to pick not on the basis of technical analysis, but on the taste of the berries in the vineyard.

‘Heinrich is doing everything right in the vineyards in terms of sustainability, cover crops and so on,’ May-Eliane notes, ‘but if we are going to find more finesse in the wines, it will be through Dirk.’

A century into an exceptional life, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing continues to question and refine. Even now, her work is defined as much by what might still be possible as by what she has already achieved.

At 100, she’s still looking to the future.

See Jason’s pick from Glenelly’s admirable portfolio

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Kanonkop – the Stellenbosch estate widely regarded as a South African ‘first growth’ – has appointed Francois van Zyl as head winemaker.

‘It’s a great honour,’ said Van Zyl of the appointment. He will be only the fourth winemaker in the estate’s 50-year legacy, following in the footsteps of Jan ‘Boland’ Coetzee, Beyers Truter and Abrie Beeslaar.

Owned by brothers Paul and Johann Krige, the Stellenbosch icon is known for its world-class, ageworthy Pinotage and Bordeaux-style reds.

‘I’m not here to reinvent the wheel,’ said Van Zyl. ‘But I am committed to building on what’s come before. We will always protect what the brand stands for: quality and consistency.’

While Van Zyl formally took up the position in November 2024, the official announcement was only made recently at the release of the Paul Sauer 2022, the estate’s iconic Bordeaux blend.

His arrival coincides with what he believes is one of the great vintages of the modern era.

‘It’s an auspicious start, with 2025 shaping up to mirror the 1974 vintage,’ said Van Zyl. The latter is both his birth year, as well as what is largely considered to be South Africa’s ‘vintage of the century’.

A tenured winemaker, Van Zyl added: ‘I’ve got 36 harvests of knowledge, and maybe 10 to 15 years left in my career. My approach is about adding value in different ways now.’

Now aged 50, in many ways Van Zyl has come full circle. ‘I became a winemaker because of Kanonkop,’ he said.

Growing up in fairly rural Robertson, Van Zyl first had dreams of becoming a doctor. Being accepted to medical school he found himself working in the family’s carpentry business in order to pursue that goal.

That was until Truter, then Kanonkop’s winemaker, presented a tasting in his hometown. The next morning, Van Zyl resigned and set off to study winemaking.

His experience includes stints in Rioja, Pomerol, Margaux, Slovenia and Serbia.

Despite his international experience, he’s the first to joke that for such a long career, he’s moved a very short distance. From Elsenburg, where he earned his degree, to Laibach (where he was at the helm for 26 years) and now, next door to Kanonkop.

Laibach – now known as Ladybird Vineyards – was acquired by Kanonkop in 2022, increasing the estate’s vineyard footprint to 130ha.

The estate’s second label, Kadette, will have a devoted production facility here. Though there are currently no plans to bottle under the Ladybird label.

Joining Van Zyl from the property is longtime viticulturist Michael Malherbe. Cellar support continues from winemakers Christelle van Niekerk and Suzaan Krige, co-owner Paul Krige’s daughter.

A replacement for outgoing winemaker Ruan Van Schalkwyk, who has joined Boekenhoutskloof, is expected to be announced soon.

‘You always dream of a job like this,’ said Van Zyl. ‘Kanonkop started it all, and this is my chance to give back.’

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South Africa’s next generation: Six brilliant winemakers forging a new scene

For the latest Decanter reader event, we’re shining a light on the southern hemisphere – specifically on the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. Star of the show will be Journey’s End, established by the Gabb family in 1995.

Nestled at the furthest eastern corner of Stellenbosch and overlooking False Bay, Journey’s End is the closest winery in the region to the sea.

This masterclass will be a chance to immerse yourself in its award-winning Bordeaux blends, tasting alongside winemaker Michael Dawson, who has headed up winemaking at the estate since 2015.

Working with fruit from vineyards planted on the ancient decomposed granite soils of the Schapenberg Hills, Dawson has crafted a range of blends that speak of this unique Cape terroir.

Premium cuvées

The tasting will begin with acclaimed white Bordeaux blend Ad Infinitum, named for its lingering finish that almost stretches out towards infinity. Discover how the cooling influence of the Atlantic Ocean contributes to the exceptional freshness of this Sauvignon-Semillon, as Dawson discusses the viticultural and vinicultural techniques used to craft this impressive cuvée.

Then step back in time, with a rare chance to taste an older vintage of Journey’s End Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about the noteworthy 2006 vintage – a year marked by cool and dry growing conditions, which resulted in smaller than average yields and concentrated wines – and discover the evolution of this impressively ageworthy wine.

A vertical to remember

The highlight of the masterclass will be a vertical tasting of top Journey’s End wine Cape Doctor, named after the strong south-eastern wind that blows in from False Bay and funnels through Stellenbosch to Cape Town. As Dawson explains: ‘This keeps the vines healthy and disease-free – hence the name.’

Cape Doctor is produced from exceptional vineyard blocks, with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot that changes from vintage to vintage. It embodies the long hang times, structured elegance and complexity that are the hallmarks of Stellenbosch’s finest and longest-lived red Bordeaux blends.

This tasting of a selection of vintages from 2018 to 2007 offers a unique chance to study the evolution of this outstanding cuvée that’s won many international awards.

The wines that will be tasted during the masterclass include the following:

Ad Infinitum 2024

Ad Infinitum 2022 5 stars, Platter Guide

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 5 stars, Platter Guide

Cape Doctor, The Red 2018 4.5 stars, Platter Guide

Cape Doctor, The Red 2015 5 stars, Platter Guide

The Cape Doctor Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

The Cape Doctor 2009

The Cape Doctor 2007

Beyond wine

Alongside this stellar line-up of bottles, Dawson will be discussing the work done by Journey’s End to protect and nurture the local people and land of the estate. This includes a commitment to sustainable farming and conservation of native Cape fauna and flora that earned the winery WWF Conservation Champion status in 2021.

The estate has been fully Fairtrade certified since April 2017. Meanwhile the Journey’s End Foundation has provided over 6,000,000 meals to the local community to date, co-funded a local school hall and supports education and empowerment projects for the local community.

An exceptional evening

So join Decanter for what promises to be an unmissable event. This is a unique opportunity to explore top Cape bottles in the company of wine experts and fellow wine lovers – and to discover why the Bordeaux blends of South Africa deserve their place on a global stage.

Buy tickets

Essential information for Decanter Presents…

Journey’s End: The Bordeaux Legacy in Stellenbosch

Date: Tuesday 6 May 2024 from 6.30pm to 8:30pm

Location: Decanter Tasting Suite, 121-141 Westbourne Terrace, Paddington, London, W2 6JR

Price: £49 per ticket

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Malu Lambert, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 1 Exceptional and 7 Outstanding.

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Panel tasting scores

43 wines tasted

Exceptional 1

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 21

Recommended 14

Commended 0

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2017 vintage red wines made from a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, and produced in the Stellenbosch WO district and/or its wards

This tasting showed off the pedigree of Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch, as well as the nuances of its top wards. The quality was high, with about two-thirds of the wines scoring above 90 points.

Cabernet is the most-planted red grape in South Africa (9,110ha in 2023: SAWIS) and the majority of plantings are in Stellenbosch. The differences can be subtle, but each delineated area has its own discernible character. The Outstanding wines were a reflection of this.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting

Key to the region are the many diverse aspects and altitudes created by mountains. The climate here is Mediterranean/maritime. Some wards are closer to the ocean than others – for example, you can see the blue line of the Atlantic from the Helderberg.

Two of the Outstanding wines were from this easterly section. The best wines from here can present with an innate freshness and a fine tannin structure. ‘Powerful and weighty yet still with lift and balance,’ as Andy Howard MW put it.

Also in the east is Jonkershoek, which boasts a core of shale soils surrounded by granite. All of the judges agreed that the Neil Ellis, Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon was ‘fresh, fresh and fresh’ – a hallmark of the area.

The lofty Banghoek also delivered two of the top wines. In the north of Stellenbosch, the vineyards here go up to about 600m. There’s an elegance and perfume to its best offerings, the vines growing on light soils of sandstone and granite. ‘I love the purity,’ said Roger Jones.

In contrast, a wine from the more ‘muscular’ Simonsberg in the [even further] north also caught our attention. High altitudes here and the high diurnal temperature range and sunlight exposure can imbue ‘depth and freshness’, according to Jones.

Meanwhile Bottelary in the northwest (one Outstanding wine) is generally considered a ‘sunnier’ part of Stellenbosch, meaning the wines here can be fruit-forward and powerful.

See all the wines from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting

Greater elegance

‘I found the 2017 vintage very impressive and balanced,’ remarked Howard. ‘South African Cabernet wasn’t always as elegant as this. There was [previously] a bit too much oak, and a smoky character.’

An analysis of the wines proves his point: alcohols are moderate for most and the trend is to use less new oak. ‘This vintage is a level up,’ agreed Jones.

Before the drought hit in 2018, the 2017 vintage benefited from the drying conditions. There was very little disease pressure and Cabernet saw uniform ripening with an extended growing season.

Moderate temperatures and cool evenings in February preserved acidity and phenolic ripeness. Yields were lower than usual; however, this ensured greater concentration.

‘South Africa is putting New World Cabernet Sauvignon back onto the map,’ declared Jones. He added that along with Stellenbosch, Margaret River in Western Australia’s and Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand ‘are all pushing for elegance, fruit and restraint’.

There’s also qualitative value to consider. ‘The wines are excellent and are generally mid-priced,’ he said.

‘Although I am hesitant to compare…’ concluded Howard, ‘I would say fine Bordeaux are the nearest to Stellenbosch’s refined style. There’s plenty of interest and many of the 2017s can be cellared until 2035.’

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Malu Lambert is a widely published wine writer based in South Africa. A taster for Platter’s Guide and judge on various panels, she won Emerging Wine Writer of the Year at the 2019 Louis Roederer Wine Writers’ Awards.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge, ambassador and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.

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Stellenbosch is in many ways the nerve centre of South African wine. The country’s largest and second-oldest wine region, it’s home to Stellenbosch University, where many of the country’s winemakers honed their craft. It’s the birthplace of the country’s signature Pinotage, where the country’s first wine route was established in the 1970s – and where many of South Africa’s most revered wines are made.

So it came as no great surprise when, after crunching the numbers following Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 judging in May, that a mini-galaxy of stellar performances for the region’s producers was revealed. In addition to 77 Silver and 17 Gold medals there were two Best in Show awards as well as a standout Value Gold for an unusual (in this part of the world, at least) grape variety.

Just 50 wines were awarded Best in Show this year, accounting for 0.28% of the total wines tasted. The two Stellenbosch wines (both 97 points) were of very different styles: one a red Bordeaux blend, the other a varietal Chardonnay, from two neighbouring wards – Simonsberg-Stellenbosch and Banghoek.

So, how important is terroir? ‘It’s crucial,’ said Regional Chair for South Africa, Fiona McDonald.

‘We’re seeing producers become very focussed on only making wines that are suited to their particular conditions and locale. Where two or three decades ago they were trying to be all things to all people, they are now sticking to their knitting – so to speak! And that’s why there’s a growing recognition for the fact that Stellenbosch and Cabernet Sauvignon work well. The same is true for Chardonnay. South Africa has form for both.’

The Cabernet connection

Stellenbosch’s reputation is based largely (along with Pinotage) on Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. About 20% of Stellenbosch’s vineyard area is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and about 12% to Merlot, and the region is frequently compared to Napa and Bordeaux – so it’s fitting that Best in Show winner Tokara, Reserve Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2021 is a Cab-dominant blend: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% Petit Verdot and the remainder Malbec.

‘Splendidly deep in colour and has sophisticated aromas that take the drinker well beyond blackcurrant towards plum, bramble and damson, with sumptuous incense spices lending a little exotic lustre,’ is how the panel described the Tokara blend, noting that, ‘the winemaking here puts the emphasis on drinkability with detail.’

Stuart Botha, who joined Tokara as winemaker in 2017 at the relatively young age of 32, describes Cabernet as ‘our focus red variety’. It comprises 65% of Tokara’s vineyard plantings. ‘Tokara is placed on the mid-slope of the Simonsberg mountain, the most important piece of topography in Stellenbosch,’ he said.

‘Here, on 400-million-year-old granitic soils, we planted various clone/rootstock combinations of Cabernet Sauvignon.’ The aim, Botha said, is ‘the expression of Cabernet that benefits from a unique terroir, but also leans towards a new world and bolder style. This stylistic goal supports the use of small-format French oak, with a 59% new-barrel component. That the wine effortlessly laps up and integrates this wood is testament to its power and pedigree.’

No fewer than nine of Stellenbosch’s 17 Gold medals were awarded to Cabernet or Cab-dominant blends. Among these were three from Stark-Condé Wines, including two from Jonkershoek Valley ward (Stark-Condé Three Pines Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (96 points) and Oude Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (95 points)), plus another wine from Delaire Graff for its Botmaskop 2021 (95 points) and from Ernie Els’ Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (95 points).

The Chardonnay card

Compared to Cabernet, Chardonnay is a relative newcomer to Stellenbosch – the oldest Chardonnay vines in the region were planted in the mid-1980s – but the quality is very high. The panel noted ‘just how happy this variety is in the Cape and particularly in Stellenbosch.’

Best in Show winner Delaire Graff Estate, Chardonnay, Banghoek, Stellenbosch 2022 impressed with its ‘combination of fresh, nectarine-and-peach fruit with understated creaminess’, said judges. ‘It’s vivid, sheeny and lively in the mouth: a beautifully crafted mixture of secondary complexities with primary charm.’

Winemaker Morné Very established the Estate’s winemaking team at Delaire Graff Estate over 15 years ago, after working in France, New Zealand and across South Africa. Banghoek’s maritime microclimate, he said, ‘moderates temperatures and creates an environment conducive to the production of elegant, nuanced wines. The unique terroir, with its combination of altitude, exposure and climate creates an ideal setting for wines of exceptional quality and character.’

Hand-selected fruit is whole-bunch pressed, fermented then matured in small French oak barrels for 10 months, resulting in a wine that Vrey describes as ‘multifaceted, with refinement and elegance’. Of the Best in Show win, he said, ‘It demonstrates that Stellenbosch Chardonnay can compete with the finest wines from renowned Chardonnay-producing regions such as California and Burgundy.’

Two other Stellenbosch Chardonnays won Gold: Bartinney’s Hourglass 2022 (95 points), also from Banghoek, and Oldenburg Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2023 (95 points).

The ‘good value’ equation

‘Simply put, Stellenbosch is the country’s premium wine-producing region,’ says Fiona McDonald – but as the DWWA results show, it’s also a region to look to for value.

All 17 Golds cost less than £50 a bottle and one was a Value Gold (less than £15 a bottle) for Spier’s Signature Collection Albariño 2023, described as having ‘charming Granny Smith and juicy stone fruit characters with a hallmark saline boost; chalky and mineral on the palate with a gorgeous mandarin twist on the finish.’ This wine also made it onto the Top 20 Value Selection – chosen by Co-Chairs after a second-round tasting of Value Golds to confirm the very best.

That ‘good-value’ perception ‘is noteworthy because it highlights that metric of overdelivering on quality at a particular price point,’ said McDonald, but she sounds a note of caution. ‘It’s the perennial battle South African producers fight: the perception that South African wines are good value or even ‘cheap’. Much of that statistic – that they overdeliver at under £50 a bottle – is because of the poor state of the South African rand. With the exchange rate currently around 23 to one, there’s a lot of proverbial ‘bang for your buck’.’

But things are changing. ‘We’re seeing prices rise substantially,’ McDonald added. ‘A lot of that is the result of smaller, non-land owning, boutique producers paying above-the-odds prices for select parcels of grapes – and those grapes are often old vines with yields of just a tonne or two.’

Stellenbosch is as multifaceted as the mountain ranges that hold the region in its surrounding embrace, with high quality across the range, from premium to excellent-value – for now at least. With a mosaic of aspects and soil types and a tightening focus on terroir and quality, there are rich pickings for wine lovers of all stripes.

DWWA 2024: Best of Stellenbosch

Delaire Graff Estate, Banghoek Chardonnay 2022

97 Best in Show

This is the eighth South African white to win a place in our Best In Show selection. Vin de Constance has featured twice and old-vine Chenin Blanc once – but all the other laureate winners have been Chardonnay, underlining just how happy this variety is in the Cape and particularly in Stellenbosch (it’s our third Stellenbosch Chardonnay winner). Green-gold in colour, this wine particularly impressed judges with its combination of fresh, nectarine-and-peach fruit with understated creaminess. It’s vivid, sheeny and lively in the mouth: a beautifully crafted mixture of secondary complexities with primary charm. This supremely adaptable wine would almost be as good without food as with, thanks to those comely summer fruits. No need, either, to cellar it if you don’t have that option, though it will certainly respond well to half-a-decade’s cool rest. Alcohol 13.5%

Tokara, Reserve Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

97 Best in Show

This intriguing Bordeaux blend from the Cape’s Stellenbosch (Cabernet with, in this case, a little Petit Verdot and Malbec but no Merlot) is splendidly deep in colour and has sophisticated aromas which take the drinker well beyond blackcurrant towards plum, bramble and damson, with sumptuous incense spices lending a little exotic lustre. It’s deep and shows complex fruits on the palate which engage and carry the wine engagingly through to the finish. A juicy acidity provides the principle balancing note, with supple supporting tannins. The winemaking here puts the emphasis on drinkability with detail; there’s no need to age this accessible, agile wine any further (though the quality of the raw materials will carry it through time, too). Alc 14.5%

Search all award-winning wines from Stellenbosch

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Soon after he bought his 2 hectare farm in the Polkadraai Hills, renowned South African winemaker Bruwer Raats got talking to another well-known producer on the Helderberg, widely considered one of Stellenbosch’s most prestigious sub-regions. His interlocutor was incredulous. ‘You’re kidding me, right? If the Simonsberg is the head of Stellenbosch and the Helderberg its heart, then the Polkadraai Hills are its arse.’

That conversation took place just 20 years ago. At the time, full-bodied reds were the dominant style in Stellenbosch, preferably based on or made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. South Africa was still in its ‘bigger is better’ phase, although new-wave winemakers were beginning to do other things.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Tim Atkin MW’s top 10 wines from the Polkadraai Hills

Raats saw the potential of the Polkadraai Hills. ‘You can’t make powerful wines on granite,’ he says, referring to the sub-region’s dominant soil type. ‘What I was after was purity, freshness and lower alcohol levels.’ If anything, the region’s poor reputation worked in his favour. ‘It was the cheapest agricultural land in Stellenbosch. I got it for a song.’

Even further ahead of the curve was Jacques Borman. In 1993, he was the distinguished winemaker at La Motte and looking to develop his own brand. The original idea was to buy a piece of land in Franschhoek, near his place of work, but he changed his mind when he tasted a Cabernet Sauvignon from five-year-old vines on the Reyneke farm in the Polkadraai Hills. The grapes were so good that Borman purchased a nearby property and wisely changed its name from the hard-to-pronounce Goedgelegen to Boschkloof.

Today, his son Reenen makes one of the world’s greatest Syrah wines, Epilogue, from that very site. Strictly speaking, Boschkloof is just outside the Polkadraai Hills ward, as it was defined in 2008 when the founder members established its borders, but it’s so close as to be cut from the same stylistic cloth. ‘If we were 500 metres further west, we’d be inside the boundary,’ says Reenen Borman. ‘It’s the same, but different, apparently.’ The good news is that Borman also makes a Syrah under the Sons of Sugarland label that falls within the boundaries of the Polkadraai Hills.

History old & new

Also in the early 1990s, Adrian Bührer, the comparatively new owner of the historic Saxenburg estate, took another brave decision. He planted 33ha of Syrah – thought to have been roughly 10% of South Africa’s entire plantings of Syrah at the time – because he saw the variety’s potential on granite soils in this comparatively cool corner of Stellenbosch. ‘People thought he was crazy,’ says his daughter Fiona. ‘But he planted according to the terroir he saw, not current winemaking trends.’

People have been farming grapes and other things in the Polkadraai Hills for centuries. Jozua Joubert and Danie Carinus, two of the region’s best growers at Karibib and Bluegum Grove respectively, are representatives of the third and sixth generations of their families; the aforementioned Saxenburg planted its first vines in 1707. But in another sense, this is a new and exciting area.

Polkadraai Hills at a glance

Location: West of the town of Stellenbosch, a series of mostly south-facing, undulating hills; False Bay, 14km away, is a significant cooling influence, especially in summer

Elevation: 120m-300m

Appellation: Received ward status in September 2006 – now one of eight officially recognised wards in Stellenbosch

Soils: Predominantly decomposed granite

Area under vine: 800ha (according to Vinpro), of which 140ha are farmed organically or biodynamically

Grape varieties: Mainly Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. Smaller plantings of Cinsault, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc

Producers: 18

Despite its modest size – just 380ha of Stellenbosch’s 12,198ha (SAWIS, 2022) – it’s a key part of the region’s renaissance; a counterpart to the dynamism of the Swartland Revolution at the turn of the millennium, when a group of young winemakers turned a cereal-focused rural backwater into one of the most exciting wine regions in South Africa.

Several of the Cape’s most celebrated winemakers are involved with projects here: Chris Alheit at Carinus Family Wines, Reenen Borman, Jean Smit of Damascene, Rudiger Gretschel at Reyneke, Lukas van Loggerenberg and Bruwer Raats. Throw in other, small projects such as Angus Paul, B Vintners, Bein, Craven and Illimis, and larger ones such as De Toren, Saxenburg and Zevenwacht, and you can understand why the ward is attracting such praise.

Another Cape superstar, Duncan Savage of Savage Wines, is establishing a very densely planted 2.5ha block of Syrah in the upper part of Joubert’s Karibib farm that will produce its first grapes this year. ‘It’s a phenomenal part of Stellenbosch,’ he says. ‘I can’t wait to see what this site gives me. We’ll ferment a demijohn or two and see where we are.’

Elemental exposure

What makes the Polkadraai Hills so special? The decomposed-granite soils for one, but also the cooler climate compared to most other parts of Stellenbosch. ‘We are definitely exposed to every type of element,’ Jozua Joubert told me, as we stood 300m up on a windy slope at the top of his property, looking down towards False Bay.

‘Every afternoon during the growing season, you can feel the southeaster wind pick up. We never go over 40°C in summer. Our winters are moderate, too.’ And then there’s the surrounding renosterveld and fynbos, South Africa’s equivalent of France’s garrigue, whose aromas distinguish some of the region’s best wines, especially its Syrahs.

The quality of the grapes is important, too, not just from the growers who sell to wineries, but from the larger estates that farm their own vineyards. De Toren is organically certified, while Reyneke, run by the charismatic Johan Reyneke, is among the world’s leading biodynamic producers.

In addition, the Polkadraai Hills are what Reyneke calls a ‘hub of all things regenerative and sustainable’. There is also, it must be said, an engaging camaraderie about this small area. I was privileged to do the first-ever group tasting from the Polkadraai Hills and the atmosphere was warm and mutually supportive.

The region is now established as one of Stellenbosch’s eight recognised wards, which is more than can be said for the Helderberg. ‘For all that stuff about being the heart of Stellenbosch, they can’t agree among themselves,’ laughs Bruwer Raats.

Know your vintages: Polkadraai Hills

2021: The closest recent Stellenbosch vintage to the mythical 2009 in terms of weather conditions. Good winter rains, moderate growing-season temperatures, long hang time. An outstanding year for both whites and reds. A Cape classic, highly collectible. Keep.

2019: A game of two halves. Very good for whites and early-ripening red varieties, particularly Cabernet Franc; less good for late-picked ones, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, because of heavy rains in late March. A vintage to drink selectively. Keep the reds.

2017: A brilliant Cape vintage, despite being produced in the middle of a five-year drought. The lack of water notwithstanding, temperatures remained below 30°C in the main. Balanced red wines with polished tannins. Whites are also ageing very well. A vintage to cellar.

2015: Regarded as one of the best vintages of the last decade, although the reds were generally better than the whites. Warmer than 2009, but benefited from the very wet 2014 winter. Reds with very good structure, purity and potential longevity. Drink now or keep.

2009: One of the great vintages in Stellenbosch. A wet winter led to good water reserves. The growing season was moderate, with no heat spikes. Diurnal variation was significant. Good colour in the reds, which have aged well, and acidity in both reds and whites. Drink now

Eight Polkadraai Hills names to know

Angus Paul

Born in South Africa but brought up in Scotland (hence a slight accent), Angus Paul came to Stellenbosch to study. The youngest winemaker in the Polkadraai Hills, he released his first reds and whites as recently as 2021. Working out of the communal Karibib Wine Craft cellar, in his core range he makes five understated, low-intervention wines (as well as a secondary range called Mesas), including one – the intriguingly named On a Flight of Furious Fancies Chenin Blanc – produced with Jozua Joubert’s Karibib grapes from a block planted in the 1980s. anguspaulwines.com

Carinus Family Vineyards

The Carinus family arrived in South Africa from Germany in 1809. Today, cousins Hugo and Danie Carinus are top-quality grape growers with farms in Devon Valley and the Swartland, as well as the Polkadraai Hills. As well as selling to other small winemakers, they produce a range under their own label. Their superb Heuwels Chenin Blanc is made for them by Chris Alheit, arguably the best exponent of the variety in South Africa. carinusvineyards.co.za

De Toren Private Cellar

De Toren is among the Polkadraai Hills’ most prestigious names, thanks in particular to Fusion V, its five-way Bordeaux blend. Using grapes from 22ha of organically certified vineyards, it’s modelled along the lines of a very smart Bordeaux château, blending grapes from 15 soil types. Traditionally among the later pickers in the ward, with corresponding levels of ripeness, the winery has shifted towards a more refined style since 2019 under Martin Fourie and Charles Williams. de-toren.com

Raats Family Wines

The man who has done more than anyone to establish the Polkadraai Hills as a ward of Stellenbosch, Bruwer Raats has also been a key figure in the promotion of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, as well as half of the team behind the icon red MR de Compostella. Alongside his own range (look out for the high-density planted Eden wines from his back garden), Raats makes three further Polkadraai Hills wines under the B(ruwer) Vintners label with his cousin Gavin Bruwer Slabbert. raats.co.za

Reyneke

Johan Reyneke grows some of the best grapes in South Africa, working alongside his beloved cows. He’s a self-styled ‘vine hugger’ who works with biodynamics on 70ha of Demeter-certified vineyards split across the 40ha family farm and adjacent 80ha Vinimark-owned estate, which is devoted entirely to growing grapes for the Reyneke brand (including animal pasture and biodiverse wilderness). Some of the vines date back to 1974. Ably assisted in the cellar by Barbara Melck and Rudiger Gretschel, Reyneke produces balanced, layered, intensely flavoured wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Syrah, as well as a Bordeaux blend called Cornerstone. Everything in the winery’s range is first class. reynekewines.co.za

Saga Vineyards

This newly launched umbrella brand currently includes the wines of Patatsfontein and Sons of Sugarland, and is a joint venture between winemaker Reenen Borman and two of his old college friends, Henk Kotze and Fritz Schoon. Borman also makes wine at Boschkloof, which is owned by his family and produces the Cape’s best Syrah from a vineyard just outside the Polkadraai Hills. Sons of Sugarland Syrah is wunderkind Reenen’s less expensive, unwooded expression from Jozua Joubert’s celebrated Karibib block. It makes a very interesting comparison with the other two wines from the same parcel, most notably his friend and former roommate Lukas Van Loggerenberg’s Graft. sagavineyards.co.za

Saxenburg Wine Estate

One of the biggest vineyard owners in the Polkadraai Hills, with 60ha under vine, Saxenburg is one the oldest properties in Stellenbosch. Located in a cooler part of the ward (the winery also makes an Elgin-style Sauvignon Blanc), Saxenburg specialises in Cabernet Sauvignon and especially Syrah, of which it was a bold pioneer. Vastly improved of late under second-generation owner Fiona Bührer and winemaker Brendan Smith, its Syrah Select is one of the best in the region. saxenburg.co.za

Van Loggerenberg Wines

Since his first vintage in 2016, Lukas van Loggerenberg has rapidly established himself as one of the most exciting Cape producers, making brilliant Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Only one of his 10-product range comes from Polkadraai Hills, but what a wine it is – the Graft Syrah hails from the same Karabib parcel that produces Patatsfontein’s Sons of Sugarland Syrah and most of the Stellenbosch Syrah by Damascene. Graft is a stunning expression of the grape that has rightly drawn positive comparisons with the best of the Rhône valley. vanloggerenbergwines.co.za

See notes and scores for Tim Atkin MW’s top 10 wines from the Polkadraai Hills

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The Alsace-based group is France’s biggest wine exporter and the biggest private winemaker in the country, with 68 properties spread across the country.

It is also the largest exporter of French wine, accounting for around one in every six bottles sold in international markets, with brands including Calvet and J.P. Chenet.

The company, whose full name is Les Grands Chais de France, recently shifted its strategy in a bid to become a global wine producer with estates in a variety of premium wine regions around the world.

It recently snapped up Las Niñas in Colchagua, Chile, and it has now moved into Stellenbosch by purchasing Neethlingshof for an undisclosed sum.

The estate has 100ha under vine, and there are plans to plant a further 27ha over the next two years. Neethlingshof produced 600,000 bottles in 2021, but the team plans to double that to 1.2 million by 2024.

A German settler named Willem Barend Lubbe founded the estate in 1692, and it changed hands several times in the ensuing years, before the Marais family bought it in 1788. They added a wine cellar in 1802.

Hans Joachim Schreiber, a German banker, bought Neethlingshof in 1985, and his family has controlled it until now.

It is famed for producing high-quality, vegan wines, including The Estate range, The Short Story Collection and the 1802 Collection.

Neethlingshof also has a thriving cellar door business, with more than 30,000 visitors each year taking in the scenery, enjoying tastings and dining in the Salt restaurant.

‘Neethlingshof is one of South Africa’s most historic estate with an established premium reputation for making award-winning wines,’ said Mark Kears, the managing director for the UK and Ireland at GCF.

‘We are very excited to welcome this stunning South African estate into the GCF family. The momentum of GCF’s international journey is picking up speed, with this latest significant investment into the New World.’

Alongside its New World expansion, GCF has also started to spread its tentacles across Europe. Purchases include Castillo de Aresan in Spain and Danubiana in Hungary.

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For a fraction of the price of similar sized estates in other wine regions around the world, Paarl excels in both value for money and quality of production.

With an established wine making history, plenty of space and a recent history of offering good investment opportunities, the Western Cape is prime for property purchases and it seems the market is strengthening.

According to Dr George Cilliers, director at Lew Geffen Sotheby’s International Realty the South African property market has ‘bounced back strongly after the COVID 19 lockdown.’

He said: ‘South Africa offers a wealth of property types from large commercial farms through to small homes and apartments but the value that can be unlocked (particularly for foreign investors) is massive.

‘Property is always a long term investment and over the years there will always be a swing between buyers and sellers markets but over the long term, property prices do not disappoint.’

Citing beautiful weather conditions of long hot summers and cool winters, Cilliers said ‘the Western Cape (Cape Town and the Cape Winelands) have been popular destinations for South Africans and International buyers alike which have fuelled the property prices and the types of homes, both along the coast and in the more rural areas, and these properties would compete with the best properties anywhere in the world.

‘The excellent terroir and proximity to the Atlantic Sea makes the Cape Winelands ideal for producing top quality vineyards. Today there are over 20 regional routes, and the wine tastings, vineyard and cellar tours, winery restaurants and myriad activities on offer contribute in no small way to overall brand-building, truly making the Cape one of the world’s premier wine destinations.’

About Paarl

The region boasts a rich history of wine production – dating back to the 1680s – as well as huge variation in soil types making it ideal for both reds and whites as well as providing opportunities for experimentation. Production centres around rich and robust reds produced largely from Shiraz, Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon, though Rhône varietals Shiraz and Grenache also do well.

The whites, usually Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, are fruit forward with tropical flavours but the region also produces rosé, sweet dessert wines and sparkling Methode Cap Classique styles as well as port, sherry and brandy.

Situated 60km inland, less than an hour’s drive from Cape Town and just north of Stellenbosch, Paarl has earned international renown not only for its wines but also the breathtaking beauty of its natural surroundings.

A clue is in its name, meaning ‘pearl’ in admiration of the glinting granite mountains which surround the town – Boland Mountain to the east, the imposing Paarl Rock on the west and the Simonsberg Mountain, both of which find a home to the majority of the region’s vineyards.

This Western Cape region is home to some of the country’s best-known estates and given its proximity to Cape Town has become a well established destination for tourists looking for wine tasting experiences or cellar tours.

Bergriver Valley farm

Unique 34ha winelands and wedding venue listed at $2,560,133

This 34ha winelands estate is situated in the middle of the Berg River Valley on the main Cape Winelands route just 60km from Cape Town International Airport.

Sold as a going concern, farming activities include the export of table grapes, 2ha of wine producing vineyards and a 16ha game camp. The estate is also a registered wedding venue seating 250 people with its own chapel and accompanying guest suites.

The estate maximises its incredible 360-degree view with mountain vistas visible from the large glass events space and lack-side sunset drinks decking. Star gazing is also possible from one of the many adjoining outdoor shower spaces.

Bovlei Valley farm

Historic 5-star Cape Dutch homestead listed at $3,598,007

This established 35ha wine estate is planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet, Merlot, Pinotage, Shiraz, Malbec, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc grapes and has a 740 square metre cellar with office block and tasting facility.

A further 10 staff cottages, workshop, and shed make up the outbuildings.

A renovation of the main 680 square metre Grand Dèdale Country House took place 10 years ago turning it into a five-star guest facility with six en-suite bedrooms, 15m salt-water swimming pool, library and large veranda overlooking the valley.

Extensive landscaped gardens, spa room, gourmet BBQ area and self-service residents’ bar complete the property.

Paarl Valley Farm

Stately 1,050 square metre residence with unsurpassed valley and mountain views listed at $2,578,571

Situated on the slopes of the Klein Drakenstein mountains this grand house is awe-inspiring with picturesque views in every direction.

The main house features four bedrooms with a three-bedroom guesthouse and approved plans for more guest cottages.

Sold as a going concern, the estate currently produces export plums, wine grapes and olives.

Tulbach Valley farm

Tulbach wine and guest farm sold as a going concern listed at $1,079,861

This 61ha farm is situated in the Tulbach Valley with an established hospitality and wine making businesses.

Farming consists of 3ha planted to Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mouvedre vineyards and 4ha of pear orchards with water supply from two dams and pending permission for the addition of a cellar.

The Cape Dutch manor house has three bedrooms and wrap-around verandas with guest accommodation comprising 15 guest suites, swimming pool and BBQ area.

The estate also runs as a wedding venue with one of the oldest chapels in the valley and functioning capacity for 200 people.

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Just a 50km drive from Cape Town, and with the natural beauty, food, people and cellar doors to rival any wine tourism region on earth, Stellenbosch is the biggest drawcard for wine lovers visiting South Africa. And if the district has a trump card in its varietal deck, then it’s undoubtedly Cabernet Sauvignon. But while Bordeaux, Napa, Margaret River and Coonawarra are synonymous with this noble grape, can the same be said for Stellenbosch?

Scroll down for Christian Eedes’ top 12 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignons to try

For one thing, the region hasn’t been making benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon for that long. Kevin Arnold, cellarmaster of Waterford Estate, situated on the Helderberg, one of Stellenbosch’s most significant mountains, says the 1960s and ’70s were a pivotal time in the variety’s rise to prominence as a premium grape. until then the workhorse grape Cinsault had held sway with the big merchants, being used for everything from rosé and reds, to sweet and fortified wines.

Since then, however, many of South Africa’s most revered wines have been Cabernet Sauvignons or at least Cabernet-driven blends. Kanonkop, considered by many as the closest thing that South Africa has to a first growth, released a 100% Cabernet for first time in 1973 and then followed with the famous Bordeaux-style red blend Paul Sauer in 1981. The highly esteemed Meerlust bottled its maiden Cabernet in 1975 before launching its Bordeaux red blend Rubicon in 1980.

It is interesting to note that today many of Stellenbosch’s most ambitious producers offer both a single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cabernet-dominant blend, the latter usually positioned as the flagship in the range but the former not far behind.

‘Bordeaux has had nearly 200 years to figure out the impact of terroir while our history with Cabernet Sauvignon is much shorter’ André Van Rensburg, Vergelegen

Finding its place

There’s a wealth of history behind Stellenbosch Cabernet, but does it excite global wine drinkers in the same way that Swartland Syrah currently does, for instance? There is an acknowledgement among producers that Cabernet often makes for a pinnacle wine, which might allow South Africa to take its place next to Bordeaux, Napa, Coonawarra and Margaret River, but bringing any sort of brand message to life has been poor in recent times.

Mark le Roux, winemaker at Waterford, thinks Swartland’s success has only been positive for Stellenbosch. ‘We move a lot slower here when it comes to wine styles; that’s just the way it is,’ he explains. ‘But there are many Stellenbosch properties with long track records that need to be respected. What Swartland has taught us is the benefits of talking to each other and standing together when it comes to marketing Stellenbosch as a whole.’

Johan Jordaan, senior winemaker for red wines at Stellenbosch’s large-scale, multi- award-winning estate Spier, agrees: ‘We’re too shy about promoting our achievements. The focus on Stellenbosch Cabernet is long overdue.’ And in that vein, there finally seem to be more efforts to position Stellenbosch as one of the world’s great Cabernet Sauvignon regions, with the slogan ‘Kingdom of Cabernet’ apparently set to stick.

It is impossible to have a conversation about Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon without bringing up the issue of ‘green’ flavours. In the mid-1990s, many wines were thin and weedy; then an over-correction in some quarters followed, with many producers opting to go super-ripe. There is now an appreciation that while overt eucalyptus and mint characters aren’t ideal, a certain amount of herbaceousness is part of Stellenbosch Cabernet’s inherent flavour profile, providing the wine with aromatic lift and refreshment.

‘You want ripeness without jamminess; wines that are alive not dead. Vitculturally, we’ve come a long way,’ says Morné Vrey of Delaire Graff, the Banghoek property owned by jewellery magnate Laurence Graff. The best wines, therefore, tend to show luscious fruit and textual generosity without sacrificing freshness. ‘It’s a bit of a cliché,’ says Jordaan of Spier, ‘but you can view Stellenbosch Cabernet as a bridging wine between the Old and the New World – they give you the structure of the former and the fruit of the latter.’

Key Cabernet Sauvignon producers

Alto, Delaire Graff, De Trafford, Edgebaston, Eikendal, Ernie Els, Jordan, Kanonkop, Kleine Zalze, Le Riche, Meerlust, Niel Ellis, Oldenburg, Rustenberg, Rust en Vrede, Spier, Stark-Condé, Thelema, Tokara, Vergelegen, Vergenoegd, Warwick, Waterford, Webersburg

Distinctive terroirs

Looking at terroir, producers insist that the different parts of the Stellenbosch region (some of them official wards and others not) give the resulting wines distinctive characters. ‘Helderberg wines are classic in style – drier with more grainy tannins – while Simonsberg wine are fruitier and sweeter,’ says Arnold of Waterford. ‘They are different communes, if you will. I would compare Helderberg with Pauillac, St-Estèphe and St-Julien, and Simonsberg with Margaux.’

Taste a dozen or more Stellenbosch wines blind, however, and it’s difficult to say from where each originates – at least with any confidence. Soil types can vary dramatically over just a few hectares, while the mountains themselves are nothing if not undulating, meaning that one property can have various different aspects.

Cabernet’s Cape crusade

It is uncertain when Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced to the Cape although the variety is known to have been grown with some seriousness at Groot Constantia in the last decades of the 19th century.

During the first half of the 20th century it began to gain prestige, even though it is largely a matter of speculation how much of the variety that wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon actually contained (prior to the Wine of Origin legislation of 1973, controls over varietal naming were very loose).

Plantings remained limited for a long while; in 1990, the variety still constituted less than 4% of the national vineyard. But post-Apartheid things changed dramatically and by 2005 (the peak of plantings) it made up 13.4%.

While plantings have dropped significantly over the past decade, Cabernet Sauvignon remains South Africa’s third most widely planted variety and the most planted red, with 11.3% of the vineyard area (11,170ha). Stellenbosch continues to have the most Cabernet Sauvignon of all wine-growing regions with 28.4% of total plantings.

Together, this makes the impact of landscape more difficult to measure than might be the case in Bordeaux, for example. And factor in an estate or winemaker’s individual style, as well as differing vineyard and cellar techniques between neighbouring estates and terroir is further obscured.

‘Bordeaux has had nearly 200 years to figure out the impact of terroir, while our history with Cabernet Sauvignon is much shorter than that,’ explains André van Rensburg of Vergelegen. ‘Only now are we discovering what rootstocks and planting densities work best. And of course, planting material is getting better and better.’

To some extent, Stellenbosch finds itself trapped between two very strong Cabernet paradigms: one being that represented by Left Bank claret and the other by Napa Valley. Some consumers prefer the tension and detail of Bordeaux, others the density and power of California – who to please?

Going forward, the challenge is surely for producers to be less derivative and to collectively speak of the unique qualities of Stellenbosch Cabernet. Individual wine style does seem to trump terroir for now, but as winemakers learn to do less rather than more in the cellar, it is hoped they will come to reflect their respective sites better.

‘We’re open and adaptive and have made quantum leaps in quality in recent times,’ asserts Jordaan of Spier. ‘It’s clear that Cabernet Sauvignon is Stellenbosch’s calling card and I think the variety has got a great future here.’

Christian Eedes is co-owner and editor of Winemag.co.uk

See Christian Eedes’ 12 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignons to try

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Thirty-five wines were 'highly recommended' by our expert panel following this blind tasting. See the full report, and tasting notes for all wines, below.

• 64 Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon wines tasted, with 35 Highly Recommended by our panel of Tim Atkin MW, John Hoskins MW and Greg Sherwood MW

The summary

Go straight to the wines

A solid performance, if not exciting. Although these wines didn’t quite live up to our judges’ high expectations, there is good value to be found, says Tim Atkin MW…

Even professional, palate-hardened tasters look forward to some events more than others. It’s no exaggeration to say that the panel approached this range of Stellenbosch Cabernets with lip-smacking excitement.

The reason: the 2015 vintage, widely touted as the greatest red wine harvest since 2009, was heavily represented, with 33 of the 64 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet-dominated wines on show. Greg Sherwood MW and I had tasted a number of these wines sighted in the Cape and were convinced we were in for a treat.

For some reason, it didn’t quite work out that way. It may have been the sweltering weather – a London day that had more in common with the Swartland than Stellenbosch – or maybe it was just our overwrought sense of anticipation. We found a handful of very good wines and a bigger number of good ones, but the tasting didn’t shoot the lights out the way we imagined.

What went wrong? John Hoskins MW wondered whether we were tasting some wines, especially the 2015s, at the wrong moment in their evolution, caught between the end of a primary fruit stage and the beginning of significant bottle development, between infancy and pimply adolescence as it were.

Sherwood rightly pointed out that we were also missing some of the country’s very top wines – Paul Sauer from Kanonkop, Delaire Graff’s Laurence Graff Reserve, Rust en Vrede’s Single Vineyard bottling, Stark-Condé’s Oude Nektar, Tokara’s Telos, Thelema’s Rabelais and Vergelegen’s V – to name a handful of personal favourites – were all not submitted.

Our criticisms were overripeness, verging on oxidation in some cases, a heavy hand with oak, some brettanomyces and lack of freshness. But maybe we were being a little harsh. Concentration and fruit weight are part of South Africa’s appeal. We shouldn’t expect these wines to taste like Bordeaux. Talking of which, they generally offer considerably better value than wines from the Gironde – one of our 35 Highly Recommended wines retails above £60, but eight can be bought for less than £16, putting them in cru bourgeois or generic Bordeaux territory, price wise. Also on the plus side, very few wines showed the effects of leafroll virus (a combination of overripe and underripe characters).

We may not have found any exceptional wines on this occasion, but the next tier down included a number of famous Stellenbosch Cabernet producers, such as Boekenhoutskloof, Delaire Graff, Glenelly, Hartenberg, Jordan, Rustenberg, Stark-Condé, Thelema, Waterford and Warwick, as well as a few unfamiliar names (at least to me) in Asara, De Kleine Wijn Koöp, Lyngrove, Pella, Super Single Vineyards and Rainbow’s End.

The 2015 vintage had the biggest number of wines in the tasting, but the year that over-performed was arguably 2014, a much cooler, less widely praised vintage that made fresher, lighter wines. There were fewer 2016s in the line-up, largely because many of the Cabernets from that torrid year have yet to be released.

Was there a recognisable Stellenbosch style? Not really. It’s such a big and diverse area, with so much Cabernet in the ground and marked differences in terroir, that this was always going to be a heterogeneous tasting. It was a good one too though, at least in parts. But we all agreed that South Africa’s whites are the country’s stronger suit.

See all of the wines in this Stellenbosch Cabernet tasting here

The overall scores:

64 wines tasted

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest release Cabernet Sauvignon reds (85% minimum), with a UK retail price of at least £12

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly Recommended 35

Recommended 19

Commended 3

Fair 6

Poor 0

Faulty 1

Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:

Tim Atkin MW

An award-winning writer, photographer, broadcaster and taster, Atkin became a Master of Wine in 2001. His website, timatkin.com, includes an in-depth annual report on the South African wine scene. He has been writing about the Cape since 1991 and is regarded as a leading commentators on its wines.

KWV, The Mentors 2014

KWV now boasts one of the best viticultural and winemaking teams in the industry. Like the rest of The Mentors range, this is a high-end and small-batch. 2014 wasn’t the easiest vintage, so the quality is noteworthy. 96 Drink 2019-2024

Waterford Estate 2015

Top young winemaker Mark Le Roux works with the experienced Kevin Arnold. Their Bordeaux blend includes small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. By the standards of the Helderberg, this is graceful and very well balanced. 96 Drink 2019-2025

Le Riche, Reserve 2015

Christo Le Riche makes this wine with fruit from three Stellenbosch sub-regions. A structured, ageworthy expression of the wonderful 2015 vintage. 94 Drink 2019-2028

John Hoskins MW

Hoskins was born into a family of hoteliers but studied English literature before wine drew him into the family business. In 1994 he became the first person in the restaurant industry to become a Master of Wine. He owns The Old Bridge hotel and restaurant in Cambridgeshire, which also includes an on-site wine shop.

Stark Condé, Three Pines, Jonkershoek Valley 2015

A cooler site, and the inclusion of Petit Verdot and Merlot helped to make this one of the best 2015s we tried. Freshness and elegance were (for once) to the fore. 93 Drink 2019-2027

Rustenberg, Peter Barlow 2015

I was delighted to see that I had given a good mark to this young Peter Barlow. It’s always a wine that starts slowly, but is built to last for at least 20 years. Just don’t touch it until 2020 at the earliest. 92 Drink 2019-2022

Waterkloof, Circumstance 2015

Biodynamic Cabernet at under 14% alcohol and costing less than £20 – what’s not to love? This was also one of the most vibrant, lively and genuinely exciting wines in the whole tasting. 92 Drink 2019-2025

Greg Sherwood MW

Sherwood completed his MW qualification in 2007 and as the senior buyer for fine wines at Handford Wines, he has extensive tasting experience. He is a regular judge at DWWA, SA Top 100, Nederburg Wine Auction and WOSA World Sommelier Awards, and writes the popular fine wine blog www.gregsherwoodmw.com.

Oldenburg Vineyards, Reserve, Banghoek 2015

This elegantly herbaceous style is wonderfully Old World in character. Definitely a Stellenbosch star to watch now that genius Nic van Aarde is joining the winery from Warwick. May the magic continue! 94 Drink 2019-2025

Thelema Mountain Vineyards 2015

Thelema is an undisputed heavyweight champion of pure, single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon in the Cape. This wonderfully aromatic expression may be a little tight on purchase, but it will certainly reward ageing – one not to be missed. 93 Drink 2019-2025

Le Riche, Reserve 2015

Father and son Etienne and Christo le Riche deliver benchmark Cabernet Sauvignons with a superb, ageworthy track record. The Reserve is an icon wine in waiting. 92 Drink 2019-2024

About Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon

Syrah may be trendier, Cinsault more historic, Pinotage more distinctive, but most informed observers would agree that Cabernet Sauvignon is the Cape’s most distinguished red grape. It’s also the most planted, occupying 11% of the country’s vineyards, behind Chenin Blanc and Colombard, but ahead of all the other reds.

The variety is grown all over South Africa, but one region stands out for the quality and range of its Cabernet Sauvignons and Bordeaux style blends: Stellenbosch. The country’s second-oldest wine region grows plenty of other grapes too, but Cabernet is its flagship, partly thanks to its association with famous estates such as Kanonkop, Meerlust, Rustenberg and Vergelegen, but also because of the quality and diversity of what it produces in this painterly, mountainous area.

In this way, Stellenbosch is South Africa’s equivalent of the Napa or Maipo Valleys. Without Cabernet, Stellenbosch wouldn’t be Stellenbosch. And without Stellenbosch, South Africa wouldn’t be South Africa.

Multiple identities

Stellenbosch likes to present a generic image, not least where Cabernet Sauvignon is concerned – there’s even a self-appointed group called the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective – but it’s a big region, with 15,252ha in total, and 3,002ha of that planted to Cabernet, not all of which is equally well suited to the variety.

In other words, there is more than one Stellenbosch, and there is more than one Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s not just a question of house style – De Toren and Reyneke are next door to each other, but produce very different red wines – it’s also a question of soil, altitude, aspect and proximity to the cool breezes of False Bay.

Other crucial factors are blending – Cabernet is paired with the other four Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) as well as Pinotage and Cinsault – picking dates, the age of a vineyard (most are young) and the amount of leafroll disease they contain. Late-season varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon are much more affected by the virus than early-ripening ones.

Officially, Stellenbosch is a district made up of seven wards but the legislation doesn’t reflect reality. The Helderberg makes some of the region’s best Cabernets, as does Stellenbosch Kloof, but neither is a ward. To do justice to Stellenbosch’s sub-regions, Faure, Firgrove and Somerset West should also be included.

That’s arguably the next stage for Stellenbosch: to move beyond a generic message to one that names its best vineyards. When it does, you can be sure that a significant percentage will be planted with Cabernet.

South African Cabs: the facts

Cabernet planted 10,360ha (SA total all varieties 95,545ha), divided principally between Stellenbosch (3,002ha), Paarl (2,394ha), Swartland (1,864ha), Robertson (1,272ha), Breedekloof (705ha) and Olifants River (472ha)

Stellenbosch wards Banghoek, Bottelary, Devon Valley, Jonkershoek, Papegaaiberg, Polkadraai Hills and Simonsberg-Stellenbosch

Principal Stellenbosch soil types Sandstone (produces more structured wines); decomposed granite (lighter, more focused wines)

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon: know your vintages

2016 A tricky year marked by hot, dry conditions and drought. Picking dates were very important, but the top wines are very good

2015 Superb wines built for long ageing. One of the Cape’s best ever vintages, with near-perfect growing conditions

2014 A cooler and wetter year that, at its best, produced elegant ‘European-style’ Cabs. Pick and choose your producer with care 2013 A very late harvest this year gave the biggest ever crop in South Africa. Generally well-balanced wines, ageing well

2012 Lack of water, especially during flowering, reduced crop levels, but quality is generally good to very good. Drinking well now

2011 A vintage of climatic fluctuations – the leading producers tended to cope best with the variable conditions

Top wines from the panel tasting:

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Rioja renegades: 10 producers writing their own rules 

Château Prieuré-Lichine: New reviews show a gear shift

See eight top wineries to visit in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, recommended by Lonely Planet in their new book Wine Trails.

Stellenbosch and Franschhoek: Wineries to visit

• Travel Guide: Stellenbosch and Franschhoek
• For flights to Cape Town – Sky Scanner
• For places to stay in the South Africa wine lands try Mr and Mrs Smith

01 Kanonkop

The historic estate of Kanonkop is a 30-minute drive outside Cape Town, at the outskirts of Stellenbosch, South Africa’s unofficial capital of wine tourism. The entrance is marked, rather ominously, by a black cannon, and the surprise as you drive towards the huge cellars through the vineyards that line the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain is that there are as many traditional free-standing bush vines here as the more modern Guyot. In fact, Kanonkop oozes tradition. The estate tour takes you into a hall of open shallow concrete vats used for hand-punching and fermenting after harvest, which the winemaker, Abrie Beeslar, claims is the secret of the high quality of Kanonkop’s wine. The Pinotage range is intense and tannic, taken from minimum 50-year-old bush vines and aged in French oak – certainly not to be drunk young.

www.kanonkop.co.za; tel +27 21 884 4656; R44, Stellenbosch, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat

02 Tokara

Under the guidance of master oenologist Miles Mossop, Tokara is the modern face of Stellenbosch winemaking. The winery is a stunning example of futuristic architecture, filled with daring contemporary art and sculpture. Mossop creates distinctive wines from three different vineyards, reflecting personality and characteristics of not just Stellenbosch, but the emerging regions of Elgin and Hermanus. Sadly, Tokara’s signature Pinotage will not be available for some time, as the majority of their ancient vines were destroyed in a fire. Still, don’t miss the straw-coloured Director’s Reserve White, a vibrant blend of Sauvignon and Semillon, while the Syrah, hand-picked on the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain, is incredibly intense in flavour and colour. The tastings here are free, a rarity in Stellenbosch, and afterwards, be sure to try the fruity olive oil made on their 60-hectare (148-acre) olive farm. There is also a casual deli and gourmet restaurant with spectacular panoramic views as far as Cape Town’s mythic Table Mountain.

www.tokara.co.za; tel +27 21 808 5900; Helshoogte Rd, Stellenbosch; contact for tastings.

• Cape Town restaurants and wine bars

03 Allée Bleue

Like many large Cape wine estates, Allée Bleue is owned by foreign investors who have transformed a fruit farm by replacing some of the orchards with 25 hectares (61 acres) of vines. And their vigneron, Vanzyl Dutoit, a beefy rugby-playing enthusiast, could not look happier, as he has been given carte blanche to create a state-of-the-art cellar. Allée Bleue is the place to taste Pinotage, South Africa’s most famous grape – a cross of Burgundy’s Pinot Noir with Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s Cinsault, or Hermitage – created in 1925 in Stellenbosch. The vines at Allée Bleue are young, aged in steel vats to produce what Vanzyl calls ‘our quaffing wine’. But their flagship, full-bodied and tannic Pinotages are made from grapes that come by lorry from 50-year-old vines three hours away, a method Vanzyl mischievously describes as ‘terroir by truck’. He pinpoints three key characteristics for Pinotage: ‘colour – a very deep, ruby red; a very intense nose, plums and cherry; and then there is the tannin, which the old-school winemakers prefer supple, aged in large old wood barrels, while the newer generation like me prefer to emphasise by using small new barriques.’

www.alleebleue.co.za; tel +27 21 874 1021; Intersection R45 & R310, Groot Drakenstein; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun

04 Solms Delta

Winemaker Hagen Viljoen is only 32, but has strong ideas about the wines he wants to produce, and this is certainly a winery with a vision, making a concrete attempt to empower the cooperative black workforce, which has been given one-third ownership. ‘The owners are trying to address the post-apartheid heritage,’ explains Hagen. ‘The history of this farm goes back four centuries and we have a museum, housed in the original 1740 wine cellar, illustrating life here when all farms and wineries were originally worked with slave labour. The idea is to come to terms with the issue of slavery rather than brush it under the carpet.’ The choice of wines to taste are daring blends of highly concentrated Rhone varietals such as Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre, made essentially from desiccated grapes. And the estate’s restaurant, Fyndraai, is perfect for a wine-pairing lunch, with dishes such as smoked ostrich and fynbos greens or bobotie stew with fresh mango. Chef Shaun Schoeman uses herbs from his native African heritage and Cape Malay spices.

www.solms-delta.co.za; tel +27 021 874 3937; Delta Rd, Groot Drakenstein; tours by appointment

05 Moreson

Moreson is the boutique vineyard of Franschhoek mover-and-shaker Richard Friedman, who also owns the luxury Quartier Francais resort in town. But a visit to Moreson revolves around two men, the dapper Clayton Reabow, who became winemaker here aged 23, and grizzled Brit Neil Jewell, the mad master butcher and charcutier of the funky Bread&Wine bistro. It is a marriage made in heaven for wine pairings, with organic meats such as lamb prosciutto or the lethal Devil salami (25% chilli). You can begin with an aged blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, then light Pink Brut Rosé, and finish with Solitaire, blended from four different vintages. And Clayton has strong views on his barrel-aged Chardonnay: ‘We want to bring people back to a subtly oak-aged wine after the backlash of the ABC trend of Anything But Chardonnay’.

www.moreson.co.za; tel +27 21 876 3055; Happy Valley Rd, Franschhoek; book wine-tasting tours online

06 Glenwood

Glenwood is Franschhoek’s hidden secret, tucked away in a remote valley at the end of a dusty 7km dirt track. The domaine resembles the Big Country ranch, with vines dramatically enclosed by steep mountain slopes, a vast expanse once inhabited by herds of elephants. The genial cellar master, DB Burger, has been making award-winning wines here for 23 years, and suggests that ‘visitors give a call first, because our tasting is more personalised than most places, I hope. I try to be available, and there is not the feeling you are being told what to think by some student taster who is repeating comments that he has learnt by heart.’ He is most proud of his elegant Chardonnays, both the oaky Vigneron Selection and the crisper Chardonnay Unwooded, but the spicy Syrah is also excellent. Burger explains, ‘Franschhoek has metamorphosed into perhaps the leading Cape wine region. In my early days, grapes were just grown to be sold to the cooperative. Then winemakers started replanting vines that are only now growing into maturity, explaining the recent radical improvement in quality.’

www.glenwoodvineyards.co.za; tel +27 21 876 2044; Robertsvlei Rd, Franschhoek; 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun

07 Chamonix

Chamonix is a vast domaine encompassing a vineyard, farmland, and a sprawling game reserve with guest lodges surrounded by wildebeest, zebra and springboks. But the wines stand out, masterminded by dynamic young oenologist Gottfried Mocke, who is experimenting in the cellar, ageing in a mix of concrete tanks, steel vats, barriques, large casks and the latest trend, high-tech ‘concrete eggs’. The stars here are the Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and a supple Pinotage, made ‘passito’ style similar to Amarone. Gottfried feels that ‘Chenin was planted here in vast amounts 50 to 60 years ago, primarily to make brandy, but I think over the years the vine has mutated to our climatic conditions to become virtually an autochthonous South African grape.’ He is also trying to shift attitudes, promoting a luscious

2009 Sauvignon: ‘I’m holding back a small part of our production rather than sell everything quickly, so people can see how the wine develops rather than always drinking young.’

www.chamonix.co.za; tel +27 21 876 8426; Uitkyk St, Franschhoek; 9.30am-5pm daily

08 Haute Cabrière

It is worth driving out from the edge of Franschhoek and up the mountainside just for the views over the valley from the sunny wine-tasting terrace of Haute Cabrière. The estate was named in 1694 by one of the founding French Huguenot settlers, Pierre Jourdain, after his home town, when this area was still known as Olifantshoek – Elephant’s, rather than French, Corner. The present owners, Achim von Arnim and his son Takuan, are on a mission to produce highquality

Champagne-standard sparkling wines, and have planted Chardonnay on the sandstone soil on one side of the vineyard, and Pinot Noir on the stony clay terroir on the west-facing slopes. Yes, these are officially South African Methode Cap Classique, but it is difficult to tell them apart from a French Champagne in a blind tasting, especially over a meal in their restaurant, which overlooks the cathedral-like cellar.

www.cabriere.co.za; tel +27 21 876 8500; Lambrechts Rd, Franschhoek; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun

Reproduced with permission from Wine Trails, 1st edn. © 2015 Lonely Planet.

More travel guides:

Cape Town: Best restaurants and bars for wine lovers

Discover the best places to wine and dine...

Wine Trails: Franschhoek and Stellenbosch

Decanter travel guide: Franschhoek, South Africa

With its strong French heritage, striking natural scenery, beautiful architecture and forward-thinking vignerons, Franschhoek is a must-stop destination for visitors

Decanter travel guide: Stellenbosch, South Africa

Bustling with vineyards, heritage architecture, art and plenty of opportunities for outdoor dining, Angela Lloyd gives the low-down on why

Wine lovers are spoiled for choice in buzzy Stellenbosch and French-flavoured Franschhoek, with excellent wines and gourmet restaurants. Read Lonely Planet's travel guide, from their new book Wine Trails.

Tasting the exceptional wines that South Africa’s Cape region is now producing while in the actual vineyards themselves is a unique experience. Just half an hour’s drive from Cape Town and the iconic Table Mountain are the immense open landscapes of Africa, where vast estates with hundreds of hectares of vines blend in with towering mountain ranges, lakes and wild vegetation.

• READ: Stellenbosch and Franschhoek: Wineries to visit

The heart of the Cape winelands is the buzzing town of Stellenbosch, a wine lover’s paradise of bars and bistros, the perfect place to be based for a few days of serious vineyard visiting. Grapes have been cultivated around Stellenbosch for more than 350 years, and wine tourism is a highly developed business: every winery seems to offer everything from guesthouses and restaurants to wine-paired picnics, and kids’ playgrounds so parents can enjoy a serious tasting.

For many years, Stellenbosch has dominated wine awards, especially for South Africa’s signature Pinotage, a hybrid of the Pinot Noir and Cinsaut grapes that was bred in the local university back in 1925. But more recently, attention is turning to nearby Franschhoek, which draws on the French heritage of its original Huguenot settlers, who brought vine seedlings with them on their perilous voyage from France. You could almost be in a Provencal village, with names such as ‘Le Bon Vivant’ and ‘Quartier Francais’, though in reality no one here actually speaks French any more. The restaurant scene in Franschhoek is definitely gourmet, the resort hotels luxurious and young vignerons are making sensational wines – not just classic Chenin Blanc and Pinotage, but intense Syrah, complex Pinot Noir and Sauvignon. And most importantly, estates are finally, though slowly, implementing inclusive ownership programmes for their black workforces.

Get there

Cape Town is the nearest major airport, 35km from Stellenbosch. Car hire is available.

Franschhoek and Stellenbosch: Where to stay

Holden Manz

Just outside Franschhoek, the modern boutique winery and restaurant contrasts with the irresistible old-world charm of this property, housed in a romantic 17th-century Cape Dutch thatched manor.

www.holdenmanz.com; tel +27 21 876 2738; Green Valley Rd, Franschhoek

Rickety Bridge Country House

Dating back to 1792 when it was part of La Provence, one of Franschhoek’s original Huguenot estates, Rickety Bridge, is a boutique winery with three sumptuously furnished guest rooms.

www.ricketybridgewinery.com; tel +27 21 876 2994; R45, Franschhoek

Middedorp Manor

Perfectly located in the downtown heart of bustling Stellenbosch, this stately Victorian guesthouse is decorated with a mix of contemporary and Cape Dutch styles.

www.middedorp.com; tel +27 21 883 9560; 16 Van Riebeeck St, Stellenbosch

Franschhoek and Stellenbosch: Where to eat

Cafe des Arts

Favourite hangout for local winemakers, serving simple comfort cooking, such as lamb’s liver with chilli-roasted potatoes, onion and bacon, and the freshest yellow-tail tuna delivered straight from the Indian Ocean.

www.cafedesarts.co.za; 7 Reservoir St West, Franschhoek; tel +27 21 876 2952

Pierneef a la Motte

La Motte is one of the oldest and still most important Franschhoek wineries, and in its flagship gastronomic restaurant, chef Michelle Theron creates tantalising dishes.

www.la-motte.com; tel +27 21 876 8000; R45, Franschhoek

Dutch East Restaurant

Pasch Duploy is a gregarious butcher/ chef, smoking and ageing his own meats, and his buzzing bistro is the place to feast on wild game such as springbok, eland and ostrich.

www.dutcheast.co.za; tel +27 21 876 3547; 42 Huguenot St, Franschhoek

Franschhoek and Stellenbosch: What to do

A favourite activity in Cape Town is learning to cook like a Cape Malay mama. Gamidah Jacobs of Lekka Kombuis will show you how to make perfect samoosas, dhaltjies (chilli bites), rootis (flat breads) and chicken curry at the classes she runs in her historic turquoisepainted Bo-Kaap home.

Celebrations

Franschhoek goes back to its French roots with a huge 14 July party to celebrate Bastille Day.

Reproduced with permission from Wine Trails, 1st edn. © 2015 Lonely Planet.

Decanter content director John Stimpfig attended a landmark tasting of Stellenbosch Cabernet vintages from 2000 to 2011 in South Africa. Read his review and see his top wines.

On the eve of Cape Wine 2015, 20 of Stellenbosch’s best known Cabernet producers came together in a collective show of force at Cape Town Waterfront’s plush One & Only hotel to present a historic tasting to a packed audience of South African buyers and press.

Wineries included Vergelegan, Kanonkop, Rustenberg, Delaire Graff, Glenelly and Waterford with a range of vintages from 2000 to 2011. Le Riche’s veteran cellarmaster Etienne le Riche said, ‘This was the best tasting of Stellenbosch Cabernet I have ever experienced.’

The subtext of the tasting was a timely riposte by the Stellenbosch old guard to some of South Africa’s young guns making significant waves in newer regions.

Event moderator, South African Greg Sherwood MW of Handford Wines in London, told Decanter, ‘there’s no doubt that regions like Swartland are doing a great job in promoting its edginess, newness and excitement. But that’s no reason to overlook or forget that Stellenbosch has an incredible story to tell with its great Cabernets. These wines are world-class, have great ageing potential and represent incredible value.’

‘Cabernet is still the yardstick by which all regions are judged, and over the years, Stellenbosch has proven to be the most successful area in South Africa for making great Cabernet,’ added Le Riche who is also a member of the Cape Winemaker’s Guild. ‘I want Stellenbosch to become famous for the variety that does best here. And that variety is Cabernet.’

Johan Malan, who helped organise and coordinate the tasting, also argued that Stellenbosch is South Africa’s best region for Cabernet and has a proven track record of over seventy years. ‘The important thing to remember is that Cabernet chose Stellenbosch. Not the other way around.’

‘This event is really the launch of a campaign to re-establish Stellenbosch’s Cabernet credentials amongst global consu

mers,’ he continued. ‘In the longer term, we’d like to take it around the world to a number of major cities.’

Cabernet Sauvignon is the third most planted variety in South Africa and the most planted in Stellenbosch with a 20% share of the vineyard surface.

Yet there are major challenges for Stellenbosch Cabernet. Jan Boland Coetzee, winemaker at Vriesenhof, commented that some winemakers hadn’t done enough with plant material and leaf roll virus. Vergelegen’s Andre van Rensburg had the same view: ‘we need to sort this out as soon as possible.’

Stellenbosch’s Kingdom of Cabernet

These are my top six wines from a truly spectacular tasting of top Stellenbosch Cabernet at the One & Only Hotel at Cape Town’s Waterfront. These wines can be drunk with food now or cellared for a number of years, depending on the vintage. They also represent almost unbelievable value for the prices asked. Proof positive that Stellenbosch Cabernet at its best is a match made in heaven.

There’s a winemaker of unquestionable skill and craft behind this outstanding fusion of varieties. The fruit is plentiful and rich, with notes of lemon, tropical fruit, white flowers, spices and herbs. It’s powerful and textured, with a gravelly palate and a lengthy finish (14%).

£14.99 Halifax Wine Co, Lea & Sandeman, Oxford Wine Co, SA Wines Online

Two years ago, the 2012 vintage of this wine won the South African Regional Trophy for Best White Blend under £15 – and now DeMorgenzon’s Maestro 2014 has gone one better and taken an International Trophy home to Stellenbosch. In doing so, it beat two French rivals, one from the Languedoc and the other from Gaillac.

What’s the secret? It might be the eclectic mix of grape varieties – Maestro 2014 blends 26% Roussanne with 25% Chardonnay, 19% Grenache Blanc, 17% Chenin Blanc and 13% Viognier – or the 10 months’ ageing in small French oak barrels and cement eggs.

Vineyard location may also play its part. DeMorgenzon translates as ‘morning sun’, and the estate’s grapes catch the first rays of the day in the Stellenboschkloof valley, vines covering the top southern and eastern slopes of Ribbokkop, overlooking the distinctive peak of Kanonkop.

DeMorgenzon’s high-altitude hinterland can be challenging for vine-growing, such is the steepness of the slopes, but the pay-off is a variety of microclimates. This facilitates the growing of an array of grape varieties, thus increasing the blending options open to winemaker Carl van der Merwe.

But perhaps the true secret of DeMorgenzon’s success lies in music – from which this Trophy-winner takes its name. Vines and maturing wines alike have baroque music constantly playing in the background, thanks to speakers strategically positioned in the vineyard and cellar. Owners Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum admit that ‘not much scientific investigation’ has been undertaken to calculate the benefits of this tuneful accompaniment, but it certainly seems to be working so far.

DeMorgenzon’s winemaker Carl van der Merwe and owner Wendy Appelbaum

Tasted against

Château Bas d’Aumelas, Languedoc, France 2013 • Château Clément Termes, Blanc Perlé, Gaillac, Southwest France 2014.

The South African wine industry gathered at Waterford Estate in Stellenbosch on November 28 for the 2015 ‘Best Of Wine Tourism’ awards ceremony.

Pictured from left to right: Gregory Czarnecki – Waterkloof Restaurant (Wine Tourism Restaurant), Maya Friederich – KWV Wine Emporium (Innovative Wine Tourism Experiences), Charl Coetzee – Babylonstoren (Accommodation and Architecture & Landscapes), Alderman Cornelius De Bruyn – Executive Mayor of the Cape Winelands District Municipality, Kevin Arnold – Waterford Estate (Wine Tourism Service and Sustainable Wine Tourism Practices and South Africa’s overall winner), Lauren Smith – Cavalli Wine & Stud Farm (Art & Culture).

The winners were:

South African overall winner: Waterford Estate

Category winner: Sustainable Wine Tourism Practices and Wine Tourism Service

Waterford Estate

Blaauwklippen Road, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, 7599

Phone: +27 21 880 5300

Fax: +27 21 880 1007

Email: cellardoor@waterfordestate.co.za

waterfordestate.co.za

Waterford Estate is a destination wine estate, offering a variety of informative, authentic, fun and innovative tasting options. Waterford Estate’s experiences include standard wine tastings, the Waterford Estate Wine and Chocolate Experience, the Vintage Reserve Tasting of Library Collection Wines, the Waterford Estate Wine Drive and the Waterford Estate Porcupine Walking Trail. Guests are encouraged to walk through the vineyards, taste the grapes, smell the soil and really get a feel for what happens outside the bottle. As part of their Biodiversity program, they show visitors their practices in terms of sustainable agriculture, which includes a waste management plan.

Guests are exposed to a sensory experience upon driving through the front entrance gate. The Walk and Drive take guests through the citrus orchards and fynbos, to where the different vineyards are planted in the different soils. Here the respective wines are opened for the guests to taste.

Architecture & Landscapes and Accommodation 

Category Winner: Babylonstoren

Klapmuts/Simondium Road, Paarl, 7670

Phone: +27 21 863 3852

Fax: +27 21 863 1727

Email: enquiries@babylonstoren.com

babylonstoren.com

A 240 hectare working wine and fruit farm dating back over 300 years, with an exceptionally well-preserved farm yard. A Garden of Diversity pays tribute to the gardening traditions of the Cape. Guest accommodation reflects the integrity of the original architecture of the Drakenstein Valley and its symplistic blending with landscape and climate. Guests may enjoy a walk in the remarkable fruit and vegetable garden, along the Clivia lined stream, sample wines grown on the slopes around the Simonsberg and enjoy a meal at one of the restaurants where distinct flavours celebrate the seasons and the bounty of the garden.

Art & Culture

Category Winner: Cavalli Wine Stud Farm

Strand Rd (R44) Somerset West

Phone: +27 21 855 3218

Email: info@cavallistud.com

cavallistud.com

Cavalli was born from a family’s love for Horses, Wine, Art and Cuisine. Cavalli aims to encourage the local arts through its platforms of public sculpture spaces and a public art gallery. Guests are surprised to find the Commercial Gallery, a hidden gem below ground. The 600 square metre art gallery has a stretched translucent ceiling backlit by LEDs, conceptualized to simulate daylight, showcasing rotating exhibitions of visiting curators, alongside a permanent exhibition of other notable works from the Cavalli Estate Private Collection.

Innovative Wine Tourism Experiences

Category Winner: KWV Wine Emporium

Kohler Street

Southern Paarl, 7646

Phone: +27 21 807 3007

Fax: +27 21 807 3119

Email: the_wine_emporium@kwv.co.za

kwvwineemporium.co.za

With its world-renowned Cathedral Cellar, history, cutting-edge technology and superb wines and brandies, KWV provides a lasting memory of the friendly people and stories. Spread over 22 hectares, the KWV cellar complex in Paarl is one of the largest in the world and offers a broad portfolio of products, including sparkling wines, natural wines, fortified wines, liqueurs and brandies. The Emporium offers a wide range of experiences, including the largest selection of Food & Wine experiences in the Cape Winelands.

Wine Tourism Restaurants

Regional Winner: Waterkloof

Sir Lowry’s Pass Road, Somerset West, 7129

Phone: +27 21 858 1491

Fax: +27 21 858 1293

Email: restaurant@waterkloofwines.co.za

http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za

Gorgeously appointed in a 10 metre high glass promontory flowing from the modern wine tasting lounge and gravitational cellar, the restaurant is set against a majestic backdrop of vineyards and mountains. Waterkloof is a fine dining Winelands destination, where sophisticated contemporary classics marry elegant wines for an elevated food and wine experience. Here food is art, calling for unhurried appreciation of unique culinary creations made with the finest local seasonal produce and complemented by seamless service. Chef Czarnecki draws inspiration from the restaurant’s spectacular setting.

Written by eleanor douglas

Jackson Family Wines has expanded its recent buying spree beyond US shores by acquiring vineyards in South Africa's Stellenbosch region.

A view of Stellenbosch in South Africa. Jackson Family Wines have bought vines in Banghoek Valley.

Jackson Family has bought Fijnbosch farm, which includes eight hectares of vines, from the Engelage family for an undisclosed fee, a spokesperson for the California-based wine firm confirmed.

It marks the latest in a series of acquisitions by Jackson Family Wines under the guidance of owner Barbara Banke and the deal is also a mark of rising respect for South African wine.

‘The family had been looking to invest in South Africa when the right opportunity presented itself,’ said Jackson Family spokesperson Kristen Reitzell.

Jackson Family winemaker Graham Weerts met Rosa Kruger, a consulting South African viticulturist who has worked at Fijnbosch for 10 years, and was impressed with the quality of the Chardonnay being produced there.

It remains unclear exactly when the deal was completed, but Jackson Family Wines was understood to have been waiting for the estate to become available.

‘Fruit from this vineyard is being used to produce a new 100% Chardonnay wine as a joint-venture between the Jackson family and Antony Beck that will release next year,’ the spokesperson said.

‘Two other Chardonnay vineyards in the Overberg and Robertson regions as also a fruit source, but those are not estate owned.’

Antony Beck is co-owner of Angela Estate in Oregon, US, but his family owns Graham Beck winery in South Africa.

In 2013, South Africa exported a record 526m litres of wine, equivalent to 701m bottles, up 26% on 2012. The UK was the largest export market. Figures for 2014 were not yet available.

Since taking the reins of Jackson Family Wines in 2011 following the death of her husband, Jess Jacskon, Barbara Banke has added more than a dozen properties to the business. Some of the most notable were the firm’s first foray into Oregon in 2013, including the purchase of the Zena Crown vineyard from Premier Pacific Vineyards.

Outside of the US, the group already owns Chateau Lassegue in France’s St Emilion and Tenuta di Arceno in Tuscany.

Read Adam Lechmere’s interview with Barbara Banke in the February issue of Decanter magazine, out on 7 January.

Written by Chris Mercer

Bustling with vineyards, heritage architecture, art and plenty of opportunities for outdoor dining, Angela Lloyd gives the low-down on why this region really is a destination for all seasons. Read her Stellenbosch travel guide.

Towering mountains linked to a chain of commanding hills; both guard an amphitheatre of undulating, vineyard-covered foothills and valleys, all leading to a vivid green-blue sea. Such is the dramatic beauty of the Stellenbosch winelands, even locals never tire of it, let alone the first-time visitor. But Stellenbosch is about much more than jaw-dropping vistas – it’s a region for all seasons, all wine styles and more besides. It’s a region that can be traversed within an hour, though incurious indeed would be the traveller who would not want to dally and explore all it has to offer.The original settlement on the banks of the Eerste river (First river) was founded by then Governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel in 1679. Vineyards were planted shortly after that, making Stellenbosch the second-oldest wine region in South Africa after Constantia.

Quick links:

• My perfect day in Stellenbosch
• Stellenbosch: where to stay, eat, shop and relax

Culture and wine

Nowadays, Stellenbosch is a bustling university town, about an hour’s drive from Cape Town. Besides shops and restaurants aplenty, Cape Dutch national heritage houses (particularly in oaked- lined Dorp Street) are worth leisurely admiration.Those who love the arts are well catered for. Several galleries house contemporary and historic art, and several wine farms have exhibitions, too. If your interest extends to see how it’s done, visits to well-known local sculptor Dylan Lewis’ studio can be arranged. His works may be found in gardens of wine farms such as Delaire Graff.

For music enthusiasts, both classical and jazz concerts are staged throughout the year at Endler Hall. In summer, the outdoor Oude Libertas amphitheatre offers a programme of varying music genres, while in neighbouring township Kayamandi, AmaZink, a pulsating musical and dining experience, is not to be missed.

But wine is the main story here. The vineyards, fanning out from the town, are home to the greatest number of wineries of any area, ­currently about 160, featuring both large and small operations. The former includes the country’s largest wine and spirits producer, Distell (distell.co.za) behind such wine brands as Nederberg, Pongracz, Stellenzicht and Lomond.

Making a choice from this daunting figure is eased by the Stellenbosch wine tourism body’s informative booklet and internet guide (wineroute.co.za), where member wineries have been divided into five sub-routes to make organising cellar door visits simpler. This is all a far cry from 1971, when the Cape’s first wine route was founded in Stellenbosch with just a handful of members.

Winery architecture here is as diverse as the wines – from the whitewashed low walls and traditional gabled manor house at Rustenberg (rustenberg.co.za) to the strikingly modern cellar at Tokara (tokara.com). Both wineries produce a typical, quality range of white and red wines, including the area’s signature variety, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Grape varieties galore

If Cabernet is acknowledged as king, home-bred Pinotage (often maligned outside South Africa) has some of its most ardent fans in Stellenbosch, with Beyers Truter leading the pack. At his Beyerskloof wine farm (beyerskloof.co.za) the grape’s versatility is demonstrated in everything from rosé to a vintage Port-style, the latter with some Touriga.

Pinotage is also indelibly linked to Truter’s previous cellar at Kanonkop (kanonkop.co.za), where fruit from a venerable 50-year-old vineyard goes into the sumptuous Black Label Pinotage.

More old-vine concentration comes with Chenin Blanc from Stellenrust (stellenrust.co.za), also from vines older than 50 years, as well as bush-vine Cinsault – an ancient Cape variety enjoying renewed interest across the country; here Tertius Boshoff gives it the care it deserves.

But it is Chenin Blanc that still holds sway as the Cape’s most planted variety. Although much remains destined for brandy, an increasing number of winemakers have shaken up the variety’s former image as a cheap and cheerful glugger and are producing wonderfully complex, concentrated and ageworthy wines. Look for some excellent Chenin- led white blends too. Ken Forrester, fondly known as Mr Chenin (kenforresterwines.com) has done much to generate this newfound interest.

A popular way to discover more about the region’s gastronomic delights, wine and food pairings are a favourite at many wineries. Try wine and chocolate matching at Waterford (waterfordestate.co.za) or pairing wine with pizzas cooked in the wood- fired oven at Mulderbosch (mulderbosch.co.za).

Stellenbosch and its numerous wineries might cover a relatively small area, but the various aspects, altitudes, soils and proximity to the sea with its cooling effects, allow for many varieties to be grown successfully beyond Chenin, Cabernet and Pinotage. At Hartenberg (hartenbergestate.com), Carl Schultz produces two Rieslings as well as five individual Shirazes.

The varietal spread has also been encouraged by foreign investors who have bought and developed farms here. Giulio Bertrand planted his favourite native Italian varieties, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, on his Morgenster estate (morgenster.co.za), as well as olive trees too – don’t miss his award- winning extra virgin oil. And long-time Italian expat Giorgio dalla Cia and son George (dallacia.com) distil their Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot into grappa-style spirits.

Summer and Autumn (between November and April) are the warmest, driest times to visit, with harvest a bonus, but winter and spring (May to October) also have their attractions. There are lots of sunny days between the rain to enjoy hiking, mountain biking, golf and visiting a few more of those 160 wine farms at this quieter time of year known as the Green Season. And if it does rain, there’s still all the shops and eateries that Stellenbosch town has to offer.

At the end of your trip, you’ll realise that one visit to this beautiful region is never enough.

How to get there

Direct flights via British Airways and Virgin Atlantic take about 11.5 hours to Cape Town International Airport. Stellenbosch is a 35km drive away.

Written by Angela Lloyd

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Bustling with vineyards, heritage architecture, art and plenty of opportunities for outdoor dining, Angela Lloyd gives the low-down on why this region really is a destination for all seasons. Read her Stellenbosch travel guide.

A perfect day in Stellenbosch

Morning

Start the day with breakfast and an inspirational view at The Bakery on Jordan Wine Estate (jordanwines.com). Stop by the tasting room to try Gary and Kathy Jordan’s fine range of wines. At neighbouring DeMorgenzon (demorgenzon.co.za), the beautiful gardens and baroque music played in the vineyards are as much attractions as the wines. Take the 10-minute drive to Spier (spier.co.za), where local crafts and a wildlife outreach programme are among the features at this multi-faceted estate.

Lunch

You can remain at Spier for lunch and enjoy a pre-booked picnic on the lawns by the dam or river, tucking into organic, home-grown produce and a bottle of wine. Or opt for a bistro-style lunch in Stellenbosch at Wild Peacock (wildpeacock.co.za) (pictured above). There’s a wide array of delicacies in the food emporium, as well as plenty of tempting dishes made from local and imported ingredients. A wide selection of wines are all available by the glass.

Afternoon

Park your car behind Wild Peacock and take a five-minute walk to Stellenbosch 360 Information Bureau ( stellenbosch.travel) where registered guide Sandra Krige can take you on a 90-minute walking tour – an exceptional opportunity to hear about the 300 year-plus history and people of this beautiful town.

Evening & overnight

It’s about a 30-minute drive to your overnight lodgings at The Country Guesthouse (thecountryguesthouse.co.za), a gracious old Cape house set in lush gardens, with views of Table Mountain from one side, vineyards the other. Make your choice from cottages or family suites. The same owners run 96 Winery Road restaurant (96wineryroad.co.za), a favourite with locals, where Natasha Hughes’ country cooking is geared towards South African dishes and the wine list is acknowledged as one of the best in the region.

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Bustling with vineyards, heritage architecture, art and plenty of opportunities for outdoor dining, Angela Lloyd gives the low-down on why this region really is a destination for all seasons. Read her Stellenbosch travel guide.

Stellenbosch: Where to stay, eat, shop and relax

Hotels

Coopmanhuijs Boutique Hotel & Spa

The beautifully restored Coopmanhuijs, a national monument, dates from the early 18th century with further additions in the late 19th century. The ambience takes you back in time – even the lift travels at a genteel pace– while the rooms with their modern comforts have a Victorian feel. Although situated in the middle of town, surrounded by shops and cafes, a central courtyard with swimming pool provides a quiet retreat. coopmanhuijs.co.za

L’Avenir Country Lodge

Surrounded by vineyards, this well-appointed, 11-room B&B is located on a working wine farm in the foothills of the Simonsberg, 5km from Stellenbosch. Guests may wander through the vineyards, play boules, take a cellar tour and a wine tasting or laze by the outdoor swimming pool. lavenir-lodge.com

Delaire Graff Estate

No expense is spared at this hilltop winery with its 10 luxury lodges, all enjoying sweeping views across Stellenbosch to Table Mountain. Contemporary art, sculpture, a Laurence Graff Diamond store and a boutique impress, as do chef Christiaan Campbell’s dishes at both the farm’s restaurants. delaire.co.za

Majeka House

A stylish, owner-managed small hotel in an off-the-main road position just outside Stellenbosch. Coolly modern with touches of the traditional and the ubiquitous view of vineyards and mountains, it offers a spa, swimming pool and 16-seater boardroom for guests’ meetings. Chef Tanja Kruger brings visual as well as flavour appeal to her French-influenced dishes; the comprehensive wine list is overseen by a trained sommelier. majekahouse.co.za

Restaurants

Camphors

Named for the majestic 300 -year-old camphor trees in the spacious gardens of Vergelegen’s winery, the restaurant is modern yet relaxing in its black and white theme. Both chef PJ Vadas’ dishes and winemaker André van Rensburg’s wines offer a much-acclaimed modern take on the classics. vergelegen.co.za

The Restaurant at Waterkloof

Difficult to decide which is the more spectacular here – the vistas of sea and mountains from the glass promontory, or French chef Grégory Czarnecki’s seasonal menu, focusing on local ingredients. His eco-conscious approach echoes the farm’s biodynamic viticultural practices. waterkloofwines.co.za

Joostenberg Bistro

Family-owned, in a casual and child-friendly setting. Enjoy the terrace and green lawns in summer, a blazing fire inside in winter. French chef and family member Christophe de Hosse prepares traditional bistro-style dishes, with pork a speciality from the family piggery. Explore the deli for a wide selection of other, home-made produce as well as Joostenberg wines. joostenberg.co.za

Shops

Vineyard Connection

Great service and selection of more than 200 wines at this shop in the DelVera complex on the R44, about 15 minutes’ drive outside Stellenbosch. Delivery to destinations worldwide is also offered. vineyardconnection.co.za

Oom Samie se Winkel

Modelled on an old rural trading post, Uncle Samie’s store is a must-visit dip into yesteryear. Browse traditional handicrafts and fresh produce or sit on the veranda and watch the world go by. 88 Dorp St, Stellenbosch, +27 (0)21 887 0797

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This year's Decanter World Wine Awards International Trophy for the Best in Show Red Bordeaux Varietals under £15 went to Hartenberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2010 (14.5%)

Tasted against:

• Château Domi-Cours, Bordeaux Supérieur, France 2010
• Fabre Montmayou, Reservado Cabernet Franc, Mendoza, Argentina 2013
• Kilikanoon, Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley, South Australia 2012

Profile:

Runners and riders for this Trophy judging included cracking wines from some of the world’s most iconic regions for red Bordeaux grapes. South Africa came out on top this year, fielding a wine from a region considered the country’s finest for Cabernet Sauvignon.

‘Like Napa is to the US, and Coonawarra is to Australia, Stellenbosch is South Africa’s Cabernet country,’ says Carl Schultz, Hartenberg’s cellarmaster since 1993.

‘Since the late 1960s,’ Schulz explains, ‘the Cabernet Sauvignon of Stellenbosch has consistently been South Africa’s best. Our Cabernet grows on a mix of Table Mountain sandstone, clay-rich, loamy soils and ironstone laterites. Stellenbosch enjoys a Mediterranean climate with warm, dry summers and cold, wet winters, and the 2010 vintage yielded thickskinned, pea-sized berries of intense flavour and colour. Our spring was warm and the vintage hot, providing a very small crop with wonderful extraction and power.’

Hartenberg’s history is a rich one, its winemaking heritage stretching back to 1692. Over the years it has been overseen by a number of charismatic characters including a freed slave, a famed elephant hunter and Arrie Lekkerwyn (the name means Harry Delicious Wine in Afrikaans, and was a corruption of the Frenchman’s real name, Henri l’Ecrevent).

Its star truly began to rise in the 1960s and ’70s under the the Finlayson family. Then in January 1987 it was bought by Ken Mackenzie, whose family are still the owners today. Mackenzie replanted all the vineyards and revamped the cellar and production facilities – and his fierce work ethic is very much alive today. When Schulz was asked about the secret of Hartenberg’s success, he said simply: ‘It’s a dedicated, driven team that is prepared to go the extra mile.’

See the full information about this wine

Written by Decanter

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for South African Single-Varietal Red over £15 went to Spier, 21 Gables Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2011 (14.5%)

Tasted against:

• Wildekrans, Barrel Select Reserve Pinotage, Walker Bay 2012

Profile:

The men to be credited for Spier’s trio of stunning successes are cellarmaster Frans Smit and viticulturist Johann Smit. Together they have developed an innate understanding of the land on which they work, and know how to eke out the very most from it.

This Trophy-winner was first released with the 1999 vintage, and its fruit comes from a special plot of land, says Johann: ‘The Pinotage grapes are sourced from an 18-year-old, low-yielding single vineyard in Faure. It has two types of soil, including one with high clay content, ensuring excellent water retention.

‘The vineyard gets strong, cooling ocean breezes and as the vines are planted in the direction the wind blows, it travels down the vines, not against them,’ he explains.

‘We focus on cooler terroirs for Pinotage. Their longer ripening periods make a big difference to the quality of the grapes, and the resulting wines have more structured tannins.’

Completing a remarkable hat trick of Trophies for Spier at DWWA 2014, this is a cracking example of South Africa’s signature red grape.

Written by Decanter

This year's winner of the Decanter World Wine Awards International Trophy for the Best in Show Red Rhône Varietal Under £15 went to Boschendal, Reserve Collection Syrah, Stellenbosch 2011, South Africa.

Boschendal, Reserve Collection Shiraz, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2011 (14.5%)

Highly individual style. Pretty, violet nose of plum, raspberries and cherries. The structured, peppery palate is all plums, sherbet and rhubarb.

UK £13.99; Bct, DGB, Hug, Mak, SWO

Tasted against • Morrisons, Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, Rhône, France 2011 • Château Trillol, Grenache Syrah, Corbières, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2008 • Robert Oatley, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2011 • Viña Mayu, Syrah Reserva, Elqui Valley, Chile 2010

A France/New World split for this taste-off has seen blends from the Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon go up against single-varietal Syrah/Shiraz from Australia, Chile and South Africa. Ultimately, Stellenbosch’s Boschendal is the winner in 2013, upgrading its first Regional Trophy since 2007 to International level.

Boschendal is often referred to as one of the grandes dames of the South African wine scene. Its history dates back to 1685 and it has consistently pioneered improvements in quality, focusing on specific varieties.

The estate is situated at the point where Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl meet and its wines can be seen as a confluence of all three areas in style. The focus is very much on Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz, with the latter being the standout wine. The Reserve Collection range is always a selection of fruit from the best sites, and the 2011 is made from grapes grown in Stellenbosch. Weather patterns during the 2011 vintage were uneven with unseasonal rainfall interspersed with hot spells, making decisions on harvesting challenging. The 2011 shows fresh red cherry aromatics, with spicy tobacco notes and a linear streak of white pepper, which makes for a complex wine, rounded off with smart French oak. It can be drunk now, but will benefit from two to three years in bottle.

Lynne Sherriff MW

Written by Decanter

The former owner of Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is about to formally open Glenelly, her South African estate.

May de Lencquesaing, who sold Pichon Lalande in Pauillac to Champagne Roederer in 2007, bought the 65-hectare Glenelly in 2003.

The official launch has been delayed until the sale of the 2008 vintage, which is the first to use grapes grown entirely on the Stellenbosch estate. A new winery was completed in 2009.

When it bought the property, Roederer became 15% shareholder in Glenelly, but following some distribution issues over the wine, de Lencquesaing became the sole owner in December 2009.

‘I now intend to spend six months of the year in South Africa,’ de Lencquesaing told decanter.com.

‘I am very keen to ensure this is truly a South African estate, not to impose too much of my Bordeaux sensibilities on to the land.’

She said she would be ‘running the estate and continuing with the set up of numerous social structures for the employees, from estate housing and childcare to education and training courses.’

The winemaker at Glenelly is Luke O’Cuinneagain, who has previously worked at Chateau Angelus, and Rustenberg, Glenelly’s award-winning neighbour in Stellenbosch.

The consultant is Adi Badenhorst, also previously at Rustenberg, as well as his own family estates.

The official launch, in April, will coincide with de Lencquesaing’s 85th birthday.

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Written by Jane Anson in Bordeaux

The most prestigious of the Cape’s wine appellations, Stellenbosch is indeed beautiful, but it also offers near-perfect wine-growing conditions and is situated right at the heart of South Africa’s wine industry, writes MICHAEL FRIDJHON

Stellenbosch is to South African wine much more than Napa to California or the Médoc to Bordeaux. It is certainly the pre-eminent South African wine appellation. However, it is also the centre of the country’s wine business, the magnet for vinous investment and the repository of wine history for the sub-continent. While the town was established in the late 17th century by Governor Simon van der Stel – after whom it takes its name – its present reputation rests on several foundations, some historical and geographical, others simply coincidental. With near ideal conditions for viticulture, it was always going to be a prominent source of wine. Its proximity to Cape Town – it is less than 40km from the Mother City – also plays a role, as does its wine tourism infrastructure, the extraordinary beauty of its landscape, its location between sea and massive mountain ranges.

https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/south-africa/stellenbosch-and-franschhoek-wineries-to-visit-284034/

In addition, South Africa’s wine of origin legislation – which dates back to 1973 – helped to boost its reputation at the expense of lesser-known regions. Producers wishing to lay claim to Stellenbosch origin on their labels were compelled by law to source their fruit from the vineyards surrounding the town. This in turn enhanced the viability of the independent growers and gave them an opportunity to free themselves (ahead of the other regions) from their bondage to the wholesalers to whom they supplied grapes. Since then independent producers have proliferated – a process which has accelerated in the past decade. There has been a threefold increase in the number of wineries within the appellation in the last 10 years and the combined Stellenbosch Wine Routes now boast over 20% of South Africa’s cellars.

Many of these new wineries have been established on properties that were previously bulk grape suppliers. Most came into being during the export-driven boom of 1994 to 2002. Grape growers saw the profits being made from owning the added value of the vinification and established cellars on their properties. Now that the rand has bounced back from R19 to £1 in early 2002 to just over R11 today, many may have cause to doubt the wisdom of this decision – though falling grape prices has left those without production units in at least as invidious a position. Those who were in the game earliest have probably established a degree of brand credibility to help them weather the storm. More importantly, the strength of the Stellenbosch name contributes leverage to those who did not buy their land at recent (and highly inflated) prices to secure sales in a difficult market.

The Stellenbosch viticultural district extends from Somerset West on False Bay northwards for about 30km. At its widest – where the Cape Flats which separate Cape Town from Stellenbosch end to Helshoogte (‘The Heights of Hell’), it covers a similar distance. Although this is not a particularly large area, the declining maritime influence moving inland and an array of mountain ranges both contribute to substantial climatic variation. The Helderberg mountains which run from Stellenbosch to Somerset West have steep westerly and southwesterly slopes and benefit from the cool breezes blowing in off False Bay. The sites closest to Somerset West – Vergelegen is an obvious example – are substantially cooler than the vineyards around the town itself. Nooks and crannies – Stellenboschkloof, home to Jordan; Ida’s Valley, home to Rustenberg; and Jonkershoek, where Lanzerac’s vineyards are planted – all offer very different wine styles. Nearby Devon Valley produces some of Stellenbosch’s richest reds. Directly over the Bottelary hills estates like Kaapzicht and Hartenberg deliver a different flavour profile – the latter offering fine Shiraz and elegant Chardonnay. The Simonsberg sub-region boasts a host of the appellation’s best-known properties including Kanonkop, Warwick and Delheim.

https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/south-africa-fire-damages-300-year-old-vergelegen-wine-estate-352325/

Given its reputation, Stellenbosch is hardly at the cutting edge of new plantings in the Cape – for these the intrepid wine tourist must traipse down to Agulhas or far up the West Coast, or even take his chances near Knysna in the Southern Cape. But in other respects, Stellenbosch does boast much of the best of what is new in Cape wine. Like the Napa Valley, it has been something of a magnet for outside investment: those who have made their fortunes in banking, IT, and industry, prefer it to all other locations for the mandatory trophy wine farm. Accordingly, it has seen extraordinary investment targeted at producing great wine in a beautiful environment rather than at impressing the neighbours with a palace on the hill. Detailed soil studies to determine the most appropriate varieties, the ideal clones, and the best rootstocks are now commonplace, as is satellite-based climate research to determine the nuances of microclimate within each vineyard block. For many of these entrepreneurs new vineyards have been more important than the sometimes strikingly beautiful wineries – mainly because South Africa’s endemic vine viruses have left them without the basics necessary for the production of fine wine. As the new blocks acquire enough age to show their worth there is no doubt that many of these projects will be the source of the Cape’s best wines in the second decade of the 21st century.

Written by Michael Fridjhon

Renowned Bordeaux second-growth estate Pichon-Lalande has expanded into South Africa after acquiring a 126ha fruit farm estate in the Stellenbosch region.

May-Eliane de Lencquesaing (pictured), the owner of the Bordeaux château, has put her technical director, Thomas Dô-Chi-Nam, in charge of the Glen Elly property and its development.

Plans include the planting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and perhaps some Petit Verdot with the object of creating one or several blends.

After spending years searching for a terroir – originally looking to America – de Lencquesaing became interested in South Africa. Her sponsorship of the International wine and Spirit Competition trophy for the best-blended red wine bought her into contact with South African producers.

She was also very keen to highlight the ethical aspect of her investment in South Africa. ‘I believe it’s good to invest in and encourage developing countries. I believe in the South Africans,’ she told decanter.com.

It is unlikely that the wine produced will resemble her Pichon-Lalande and Madame de Lencquesaing was keen to point out that she was not aiming to emulate a Bordeaux wine.

‘It is not Bordeaux. It will be a high quality South African wine. Geographically it is more like Burgundy and the climate is Tuscan,’ she said. She added that she would also be planting about 15ha of olive trees in the estate.

Madame de Lencquesaing is undecided as to whether or not the future wine’s label will display the Pichon-Lalande name.

The Glen Elly property is situated next to the well-known Rustenburg estate in the Simonsberg district, north of Stellenbosch town.

After planting is completed and the vines are producing, the first bottles of the Glen Elly/Pichon-Lalande wine should hit the market by 2012.

Written by Oliver Styles

Think South African reds, think Stellenbosch. But just why is the region so far ahead of its neighbours, and just when are they going to catch up? TONY MOSSOP finds out.

ASK a group of northern hemisphere wine drinkers to locate the Cape wine region on an African map, and many would struggle. As for pinpointing a single vineyard area, forget it. So is the legend of Stellenbosch – the much-heralded red jewel in the Cape’s crown – justified, or mere marketing hype?

https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/south-africa/cape-town-restaurants-wine-bars-305246/

The name certainly enjoys greater international recognition among semi-educated wine drinkers than any other area in the region. It is arguably on a par with Napa, and certainly a whisker ahead of Coonawarra. In short, it’s a sexy address, for sure. Just ask Jeff Grier, whose family owns the Villiera estate, recently ‘reclassified’ to Stellenbosch from neighbouring Paarl.

‘When we bought the place years ago it was smaller, and fell into the Paarl magisterial district,’ he says. ‘But as we expanded, our new purchases were all on the Stellenbosch side. We didn’t push for reclassification – after all, it’s never been done before. But some of our neighbours felt we should be on board.

‘The wines are the same – and we don’t get any more visitors because we’re on the Stellenbosch Wine Route rather than the Paarl one. In fact, we haven’t even released any ‘Stellenbosch’ origin wines yet – that’ll be the 2002 vintage, from after the reclassification.’

One senses a ‘but’ coming. And though Grier is reluctant to admit that his change of address – if not location – will result in higher prices for his wines (‘maybe some time in the future,’ he muses), it’s safe to say the sexed-up branding will eventually reap rewards.

Pick of the Bunch

So does Stellenbosch have the raw materials to back up its elevated status? After all, its vines are on the youngish side, with two-thirds under ten years old, and only 20% past their 20th birthday, And the area ranks only third in the total line-up of viticultural regions size-wise, with just 16% of all vineyard land in the Cape. But its ratio of red-to-white grape plantings, at 60%/40%, is in marked contrast to the national 30/70 average. What’s more, the region can claim a third of the country’s Cabernet and Merlot, 23% of its Pinotage, a quarter of Shiraz plantings, and nearly half of all the Cabernet Franc.

Then there are the show results and other accolades. The country’s respected WINE Magazine has only awarded 11 five-star ratings (‘Superlative – World class’) in its 10-year history: seven of these were for red wines – all from Stellenbosch. Of this magazine’s 22 top Cape cellars, 17 are situated in the Stellenbosch region. And of the 26 Double Gold medal accolades dished out for reds at the SA National ‘Veritas’ wine show this year, more than half were awarded to Stellenbosch wines.

The list goes on: at the 2003 Fairbairn Capital Trophy Wine Show, Stellenbosch reds picked up eight of the 12 Gold medals. In recent WINE Magazine category tastings, where a four-star rating is only awarded to an ‘excellent wine of distinction’, the region took four out of five such Bordeaux blend reds, five out of nine Shirazes and all three Merlots. Stellenbosch is only overshadowed in one red wine category: Pinot Noir, where the Walker Bay region near Hermanus claims dominance.

Pockets of Greatness

How has this enviable track record been built up? Cape-based international wine judge and writer Dave Hughes has a memory as long as his snow-white beard. ‘It all comes down to competition,’ he claims. ‘Ever since guys like the late Frans Malan of Simonsig estate and ‘Spatz’ Sperling of Delheim got the whole Stellenbosch Wine Route going 30 years ago, these guys wanted to out-do each other. There are now so many cellars cheek by jowl all over the Stellenbosch hills, all trying to pip the other, [that] it breeds class.’

Hughes points out that the region is not a ‘cool climate’ area: ‘In fact, the Robertson region [on the other side of the mountains] enjoys cooler nights, with similar harvest-time temperatures during the day. There are plenty of cooler regions – Walker Bay, Constantia…’

But there are plenty who agree with him that it is Stellenbosch’s topographical diversity that makes it special: after all, it’s such a complex, convoluted part of the world. New Zealander Chris Kelly is in charge of winemaking at the progressive Stellenbosch Vineyards consortium of erstwhile co-ops. He loves the variety and opportunities. ‘I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t think this place was more exciting than anywhere in France, Australia or Napa,’ he says. ‘In fact, it’s the only region I know apart from Napa with so many different microclimates and little zones of real excellence.’

Thelema’s Gyles Webb agrees. From his lofty perch near the recent winter snowline at the top of the Helshoogte pass above Stellenbosch, he says: ‘I’ve looked all over for more land to plant for our needs and those of Tokara,’ (the neighbouring cellar, also in his charge). ‘I’ve checked out the cool Elgin region, Walker Bay near Hermanus… you name it. But Stellenbosch grapes cover all the red bases for me.’

So too for Neil Ellis, who was the first vineyard-less winemaker to source grapes for his range of own-name wines nearly 20 years ago. He is now based at the Oude Nektar farm near Stellenbosch, up the Jonkershoek valley, one of those little pockets of excellence. Ellis scours the whole of the Cape from the west coast to the southeast for premium fruit, but when it comes to quality red wines, it all comes back to Stellenbosch.

‘It’s the amazing diversity,’ Ellis says. ‘These little pockets – jewels if you like – were lost in the grand scheme of things. All these great grapes disappeared into the mass blends of the co-ops or Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery [now Distell]. They’re being rediscovered again, and replanted with better, virus-free material. And all the traditional old farms – such as Kanonkop, Rustenberg, Vergelegen – have “super-blocks” too. It’s just taken time to identify them and develop those special wines.’ Ellis feels that in any line-up of 10 great Cape reds, eight would come from Stellenbosch.

Charles Hopkins does not make wine there: cellarmaster for the Graham Beck winery near Franschhoek, over the Helshoogte pass towards Paarl, he knew that the red grape source around his newly built showpiece cellar was not quite hitting the spot for the style of wines he wanted to make.

https://www.decanter.com/obituaries/graham-beck-dies-53335/

‘So we twisted Mr Beck’s arm and bought these two great vineyards near Somerset West, on the hills above False Bay,’ he recalls. ‘The stuff is amazing – our reds took a leap in quality. The proximity to the coast, with those cool southeast winds, does the trick. Fortunately, we can now call the wines Stellenbosch – previously, when we trucked the grapes to Franschhoek they lost their passport and became common old catch-all Coastal Region. Let’s face it, that means nothing on a bottle – Stellenbosch says it all!’

Gerrie Wagener is a viticulturist who grows and sources fruit for the multi-brand Winecorp operation. ‘For our top echelon wines like Spier and Longridge, we use only Stellenbosch fruit for the reds. Prices are high, but the wines can afford that. For our other brands, like Bay View, we rove a little further – the West Coast, around Darling, is good for us.’

Such alternatives must be considered healthy, even by ‘Stello-philes’. So where is the competition coming from? Some, such as Kelly, point to the un-tried hills of the Southern Cape, beyond Hermanus and Stanford, in the direction of Cape Agulhas, the continent’s southern tip. ‘Our viticulturist, François de Villiers, feels it’s like Coonawarra – only better.’

Wagener agrees, but Ellis is sceptical: ‘It’s too marginal – they get maybe two great vintages every decade there, while in Stellenbosch you can double that.’ And he’s critical of reds from the west coast and Swartland, the warm, wheat-growing region north of Cape Town. ‘The guys make ‘4×4’ wines there,’ he chuckles, referring to the macho mode of transport used by the average winemaker. ‘Acids – 4, pH – 4 and 44% alcohol! Not the refinement or ageing track record of Stellenbosch.’

The Stellenbosch wine region is probably the most diverse, beautiful little viticultural area on the planet. From the foot of Sir Lowry’s pass near Somerset West, including the magnificent Vergelegen spread and the Lourens River valley, all the way to the northwest, this complex, fascinating piece of vineyard area snakes and winds itself in and around the spectacular mountains which provide the decomposed granite and Hutton soils so beloved by red grapes. The Helderberg, Hottentots Holland and Simonsberg ranges tower over the hills, with all manner of nooks and crannies and such names as Stellenboschkloof, Devon Valley, Polkadraai, Bottelary and Eerste River serving to confuse the wine tourist. And many of these sub-regions have spawned their own mini-wine routes, highlighting the individuality of the micro-climates and helping the region to even greater fame.

Not a chance of boredom here. And the finest red wines in the land.

Written by Tony Mossop