No one is sure what to call it, but everyone’s favourite grape in Central Europe can be appetisingly fresh and fruity, or richer, layered and complex – either way, the best wines are utterly delicious.

Today, producers across several countries are showing that it’s both incredibly versatile and well worth another taste – even if it does hide its light under a bewildering array of names.

It grows as Graševina in Croatia; Grašac or Rizling Italijanski in Serbia; Olaszrizling in Hungary; Riesling Italian (often just Riesling) in Romania; Riesling Italico in Italy (mainly in Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy); Welschriesling in Austria; Laški Rizling or Grašica in Slovenia; Rizling Vlašský in Slovakia and Ryzlink Vlašský in Czechia.

It takes number one spot for vineyard area in Croatia, Slovenia and Serbia, but perhaps most surprisingly, it covers 3,000ha to 4,000ha in China, where it first arrived when an Austro-Hungarian consul was invited to be a winemaker in 1892 (its Chinese name 贵人香 means ‘noble fragrance’); there’s even some in Brazil.

No one is even sure where the grape originally comes from. One parent is a rare Italian grape called Coccalona Nera – the other remains unknown.

And some names either explicitly reference or imply an Italian connection – Olasz, Laski, Vlašský and Welsch all mean ‘Italian’ in their respective languages.*

So Italy may be the origin, although it wasn’t recorded there until the mid-1800s.

*Editor's note – Welsch/Welsh/Walloon/Vlach/Vlašský etc. are also cognate with the proto-Germanic 'Walhaz' meaning Roman/Romance-language speaker, later 'foreigner' or simply 'Italian'. Welschriesling's presence in the Illyrian border areas of the Roman Empire in contact with Germanic tribes may hint at a possible etymological origin.

A possible homeland

One twist in the unravelling of its origins comes from Serbia, where the grape (under the name Graschaz) appeared in an 1816 book called Soveršen Vinodelac (‘The Perfect Winemaker’) by Prokopije Bolić, the archimandrite, or head monk, of the Rakovac monastery on Fruška Gora mountain.

Even more important was the discovery of the world’s second-oldest grapevine herbarium in Sremski Karlovci grammar school in northern Serbia, and the only one with actual pressed grapes.

In 2017, researcher Dr Milica Rat uncovered some dusty, forgotten boxes with 75 samples of grapevine material, collected in around 1812-1824 on Fruška Gora – including a sample of Graschaz.

This gives Serbia current bragging rights as its most historic origin.

In many guises

The precise origin of the grape variety matters less than the fact that it has been widely adopted around the Danube basin.

It’s easy to grow and can be a generous yielder, which suited the previous, quantity-not-quality era, when it was often consumed daily from litre bottles and in spritzers (Hungarians in particular take spritzers seriously – always Olaszrizling).

But it’s now proving that it has much more to offer, culminating in a DWWA 2023 Best in Show award for Vinarija Vinčić’s Grašac 2020 from Serbia, an unoaked version from 50-year-old vines.

The names that mention ‘Riesling’ or ‘Rizling’ are confusing because the variety is unrelated to Rhine Riesling and doesn’t taste similar to it – typically with a softer, rounder texture, but also appetising freshness.

Young versions can be light and fruity, with bright acidity and notes of lemon, green apple, white flowers, sometimes green herbs, and a mineral, grapefruit pith finish.

Or, it can be profound and complex, with ripe apple, poached pear, lemon zest, pineapple, quince and sometimes honey and marzipan, especially from old vines and low yields.

At the same time, it can also suit sparkling wines (a handful in Central Europe and even in Brazil), as well as some stunning skin-contact wines and the occasional, delicious, botrytis sweet wine.

Like many great grapes, it’s also capable of reflecting terroir; a fact supported by a recent study that found different levels of certain aromatic compounds in grapes from different regions.

Sadly, it’s only slowly regaining consumer recognition, though a competition called GROW du Monde ('GR' from Graševina/Grašac, 'O' from Olaszrizling and 'W' from Welschriesling), founded by three friends from Croatia, Serbia and Hungary, aims to unify its identity and rebuild awareness.

Time for some GROW in your glass?

Gilby’s pick: Six white Welschriesling from across Europe

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The glistening waters of Dalmatia’s Adriatic coast attract millions of tourists every year.

Some come for the sea air, others to experience the region’s ancient history and, of course, some are drawn by the spectacular backdrop to Game of Thrones.

But perhaps the most enjoyable and relaxed way to explore Dalmatia is through its high-quality wines and unique grape varieties.

With over 5,500 hectares of vineyards, there is plenty to explore. The grape names may not be household names (yet) but varieties like Plavac Mali, Tribidag, Pošip, Maraština and Debit will take you on a journey from north to south – and even island hopping – across this wonderful region.

Carved from Stone

Just a few kilometres from the town of Primošten, around an hour’s drive west of Split along the coast, Bukovac is an extraordinary vineyard area covering just 18.4 hectares.

Vines are carved into the rocky terrain, painstakingly excavated and transformed entirely by hand.

The grape grown here is Babić, a red variety planted in a mosaic-like pattern across tiny square plots bordered by low stone walls.

This honeycomb or lace-like pattern creates a striking impression: a moon-like landscape criss-crossing a small slope that cascades towards the Adriatic Sea.

And the wines are well worth the visit. Red cherry fruits and Mediterranean herbs combine to produce structured and mineral reds.

Go fishing

Have you ever thought about fishing in a vineyard?

Away from the coast in the area around Vrgorac, the Gašpar wines are grown in a valley close to one of Dalmatia’s largest mountains, Biokovo.

The soils are very white, a result of the lake that used to be here until it was drained to allow for the construction of a tunnel in 1938.

Now planted with vines, the valley is flooded for more than three months a year, sometimes more.

The waters recede each year in time for the growing season, leaving behind reserves of wines that help the Plavka (Plavina) vines.

In the meantime, producers like Gašpar, whose vineyards are planted in this very unusual site, profit from the temporary lake by setting up nets and catching catfish!

Island hopping

No trip to Dalmatia is complete without some island hopping in the sun. But why not explore the vineyards of islands such as Brač, Hvar and Korčula?

While the islands share the salty influence of the sea and limestone soils, each has its own character defined by distinctive landscapes.

If you like hiking, you could climb the higher-altitude vineyards of Brač, grown on dramatic white karst and rock.

But if you’re looking for richer, bolder wine styles, perhaps Hvar is more your pace with its sunshine, heat and red terra rossa soils.

Korčula, meanwhile, will appeal to those looking for a greener escape, thanks to its cooler, sheltered coastal vineyards and the hilly terrain of its interior.

Why not make your next journey to Croatia a vinous escape?

Pack your walking shoes – perhaps even some wellies – and venture off the beaten track in Dalmatia.

The Dalmatia grape expedition – 10 wines to try

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For any wine region to be great, it needs a simple name. Just look at Bordeaux. Given its 65 appellations, having this one name is quite convenient as trying to remember all of them, save for a few of the most famous, is a tedious proposition.

The same can be said for Burgundy, the Rhône, Napa or a multitude of famous regions the world over. This is what makes the proposition of the ‘North Adriatic’ so appealing.

It’s a convenient shorthand for not just a very wide group of appellations, but also parts of three different countries, including northeast Italy and the western parts of Slovenia and Croatia.

When Paul Balke, author of the book North Adriatic, contacted me about a trip he was planning that grouped all of these regions into one much more digestible whole, I thought it a splendid idea.

I’ve been tasting them individually for nearly two decades and hadn’t really considered the fact that they are, to any wine drinker, far more comprehensible via this collective nomenclature.

While at first glance it may appear that this spaghetti of borders, rivers and small mountains has no cohesion, there are several aspects that bind it all together.

And, given that Croatia entered into the Schengen and Eurozone at the start of 2023, imagining that there is any kind of separation at all seems more artificial than the separation that was.

First and most important is the Italianate nature to everything. In ancient history this was all Roman, and in later history it was all Venetian.

It’s only during the last century that things have become a great deal more complicated, especially after World War II.

Despite this, almost everyone who isn’t Italian (namely Slovenes and Croats) does also speak Italian.

While this shared language and history is what we see on the surface, below there’s a vast stretch of flysch (charmingly known locally as ponca/opoka in Italian/Slovenian), a sedimentary mix of sandstone and marl that links the geology of the region.

Linked by separation

This novel new way to look at the region essentially has Trieste in Italy’s far northeast as its focus point and city, with Venice serving as the western flank and Rijeka, Croatia, as the eastern.

It would be easy to get bogged down in finite details across these various lands, of which there are 15 zones.

However, there are two core regions to the north and south that are the most important, as they both produce some of the most exciting wines: Colli Orientali/Collio/Goriška Brda straddling Italy and Slovenia; and Istria, which is mostly in Croatia, with a smaller northern segment in Slovenia and the smallest scrap just to the south of Trieste.

These two North Adriatic sub-regions perfectly embody a spirit of being ‘apart yet together’.

Prior to the imposition of the new border in 1947, Collio and Brda formed a single, coherent wine region, with the same flysch soils extending west into Colli Orientali.

Anyone wandering through these hills today could potentially cross the remnants of old, now-obsolete borders several times in a single day without noticing any real difference – aside from the reversed order of the bilingual village signs and the shared tourism branding of Collio Brda, marked by small shelters dotted across the region, ready for a selfie.

Split identities

Along these hills, one will find undulating waves of vines and, while both red and white varieties are planted, what’s most notable are the vines of Ribolla Gialla/Rebula.

While not planted as much as in the past, there has been a renewal in the last 20 years, with the wines ranging from a fresher style to full-on skin-contact orange, to sparkling wines that are really pleasing these days, such as the Kristalvin, Rebula Extra Brut.

The still wine producers – such as Movia or newcomers such as Ferdinand, both in Brda – are also excellent locales to visit.

Movia especially seems to have a steady stream of visitors, which should come as no surprise given the view from the terrace of the cellar.

While there is plenty of Ribolla Gialla in Collio, the Italian part of this common area, it’s with Friulano where producers seem to be excelling, especially from the likes of Renato Keber or Castello di Spessa.

There’s something of a branding issue with this white grape, however, given that it can be found labelled as Tocai (a name that had to be changed under EU regulations, due to its confusion with Hungary’s Tokaji – the luxurious sweet wine made mostly from the Furmint grape), as well as Friulano, Sauvignonasse and the particularly confusing Zeleni Sauvignon.

To the point of Istria

It’s difficult to leave the hills of Collio/Goriška Brda (a feeling I know well from many trips), but there’s much more to see in the North Adriatic region.

One can go west to regions that are much more plaindriven, especially in Friuli – the zones of Grave, Isonzo or Colli Orientali. In Friuli Grave, Udine is a lovely Italian city to visit, too; and, 10km to its east, the very historic town of Cividale del Friuli is a necessary stop.

Or you can head east, deep into Slovenia, winding along the 70km of the Vipava valley, with grapevines on the valley floor, castles high above on the hills and, higher still, the rocky Karst plateau, which is shared by Italy and Slovenia.

But once you pass through Vipava and follow the rear side of Trieste – a wooded world away from the busy Italian city and port – you arrive at the Istrian peninsula, which, like Collio and Brda, was a single contiguous region prior to World War II.

Wherever you are in Istria – from its Italian sliver at the northern end to Slovenia’s 43km of coastline and the vast bulk of land in modern Croatia – you’re far better off pulling back from the coast by some 10km or so.

The historic presence of Venice is clear in the lovely towns of Piran in Slovenia and Rovinj in Croatia, while the unmistakable imprint of the Romans is apparent in Pula at the tip of the peninsula.

Large-scale tourism, too, has left its mark along the entire coastline. This, however, is nothing new and, as such, the interior was long developed as a destination for boutique hotels, fine food and, of course, very, very good wines.

Both the flysch soils from the north and the Italian language continue into Istria.

In fact, schools in Croatia are bilingual, as are the street signs, and the local Croatian language is markedly different – more sing-song and melodic when compared with that spoken in the country’s capital Zagreb.

Heart of the peninsula

While roughly half of Istria is planted with vines, the most serious production and winery focus lies in the northwestern areas of Croatian Istria and, at slightly lower altitudes, in neighbouring parts of Slovenia.

Conveniently, this overlaps perfectly with the most scenic, postcard-ready parts of Istria, including the villages of Brtonigla, Buje, Grožnjan, Oprtalj and, perhaps most famously of all, Motovun.

Running around the bases of the hilltops these villages call home is an endless parade of vines. Istria is also refreshingly easy to understand from a grape variety point of view.

There are, broadly speaking, two principal grapes: the white Malvazija Istarska, and the red Teran (Terrano in Italy, Refošk in Slovenia – though the latter may be a close relative, rather than exactly the same variety).

Despite this shared varietal base, the resulting wines can show significant stylistic differences. This is worth noting, as in recent years, producers in Slovenian Istria have leaned more towards natural and low-intervention approaches, as seen at Korenika & Moškon.

This isn’t to say such practices don’t exist further south, but Croatian Istria retains a strong, studied Italian core of winemaking that has a tendency to keep things more tightly controlled.

Teran-based wines from producers such as Coronica and Cattunar rank among the stars of the region’s reds. On the white side, Coronica’s Gran Malvazija, Kozlović’s Santa Lucia and Clai’s Baracija Malvazija are all genuinely world class.

Of course, it would be remiss to focus solely on the wines. Truffles should also be high on the agenda – ideally grated generously over a steak at a fine konoba (a traditional tavern or small restaurant serving regional cuisine) enjoyed with an unparalleled view from the top of Motovun village.

A delicious slice of the Adriatic

Paul Balke proposes that the North Adriatic concept stretches as far as Rijeka and the nearby island of Krk.

There is indeed a shared history across these areas, but they lack the rolling, vineyard-covered hills that seem to define much of the rest of the region.

That said, it remains a sound concept. The core elements of wine, history and, for lack of a better word, an ‘Italian’ style feel broadly contiguous throughout.

Given how difficult it can be for neighbouring wine regions – let alone different countries – to work together in pursuit of a common goal, it may be some time before there’s greater alignment.

Still, for wine lovers who enjoy one part of this region, there is a great deal more to explore and enjoy across the North Adriatic as a whole.

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Santiago Deicas

Bodega Familia Deicas, Uruguay

By Ines Salpico

Santiago Deicas had his first paid gig – in wine and in life – at 12 years old, as a lab assistant at his family’s winery. This planted the seed of systematic curiosity that shapes his work at the helm of Bodega Familia Deicas today.

Twenty-five years on, he’s the third generation of the Deicas family leading the eponymous Uruguayan winery, overseeing production from at least 300ha of vineyards in all across a dozen regions of the country.

Santiago has the humble confidence of someone who was born into a lineage of assertive entrepreneurship and daring firsts. Bodega Familia Deicas was founded in 2000 as an offshoot of the family’s larger-scale, export-focused business Establicimiento Juanicó – known for its Don Pascual range.

The objective was to focus resources on the fine wines that Santiago’s father, Fernando Deicas, had started developing with the creation of Preludio, a Bordeaux-inspired blend that pioneered fine wine production in Uruguay.

The winery has since had a key role in placing – and to an extent defining – the identity of Uruguayan wine as a whole. The evolution of Familia Deicas from Bordeaux derivative to champion of ‘Western Atlanticism’ mirrors the country’s increasing understanding of its viticultural identity – and Santiago Deicas’ coming of age and emergence as one of South America’s most exciting young winemakers.

Atlantic Soul

Santiago’s path was not forced upon him. However, as he recounts his trajectory – from those first days in the lab to being regarded as one of South America’s most talented winemakers – there’s a sense of inevitability, hemmed by studiousness and worldliness.

‘The event that made me sure I wanted to do this was a trip to Bordeaux with my father, when I was 14,’ he recalls. ‘We were exhibiting at the Vinexpo trade show and the whole experience marked me profoundly.

‘There was this amazing camaraderie among producers; not just those of us travelling together from Uruguay but all those we met [at the show]. Having a producer badge meant that we were part of this community. And there was this sense of responsibility, as ambassadors for our country and culture. It’s not just wine that we represent.’

With that certainty cemented, he started working in the cellar, gained harvest experience and eventually graduated in food technology with a specialism in oenology. He went on also to earn an MBA.

Further to his academic accomplishments, Santiago has had two great schools: travelling and tasting extensively; and a remarkable pool of star consultants engaged by Deicas over the decades (Californian legend Paul Hobbs has been their leading advisor since 2012).

Working alongside his father from 2011 and 2019 allowed for an organic, gradual transition that culminated in Santiago’s appointment as winemaking director in 2020. In the process, he had the time and space to consider the focus of his work.

‘I did worry, for a while, about Deicas’ identity [as a winery]. How did the more vanguard wines I’ve been developing (like the Extreme Vineyards limited release bottlings from individual terroirs) sit next to a wine like Preludio? Eventually I realised that the common thread is that Atlantic identity. It defines our wines and our winemaking decisions.’

Rather than a point of arrival, this realisation has provided a confident launchpad for the restless curiosity, framed by technical pragmatism, that will surely make Santiago Deicas one of South America’s most prominent wine names in decades to come.

Gianna Kozlović

Vinarija Kozlović, Croatia

By Sylvia Wu

‘I was never forced to be interested in winemaking, which, maybe, was my parents’ clever strategy to see if I would be,’ says Gianna Kozlović, fifth generation of the famed family winery in the north of the picturesque Istrian peninsula, in Croatia.

The Kozlović family first put down its roots in wine in 1904 in the Vale valley near Momjan village, just 1km from the border with Slovenia. Over nearly a century of cautious expansion, the fourth generation – Gianfranco and Antonella (Gianna’s parents) – took over in 1998 and soon became leading figures in the modern renaissance of Istrian wine, particularly for their interpretation of the indigenous white grape Malvazija Istriana.

The estate’s three-storey contemporary winery and its panoramic tasting terrace, completed in 2012 near the family’s original home, also make it a must-visit for wine lovers.

Gianna had been helping her parents around the winery since she was old enough to walk, but, as she puts it, her real interest in wine ‘didn’t really start’ until early adulthood.

She has certainly witnessed Kozlović’s rise to international prominence throughout her life, though. In 2001, the Kozlović family started working on Santa Lucia (eventually acquiring it in 2008) – a southwest-facing 20ha vineyard near Buje, where the oldest Malvazija plantings date back to 1961.

The site – rich in flysch, limestone and clay – was later hailed as one of Croatia’s prime terroirs for wine-growing.

The winery’s 2017 Santa Lucia Malvazija won Platinum at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2022, and the 2018 vintage took Gold at DWWA 2025 – and this year, it was Gianna who went on stage to receive the award at the annual Decanter Winners’ Showcase held in Istria.

Honest appraisal

Gianna studied winemaking at the University of Udine in Italy, and was fascinated by the chemistry behind wine. Having officially been ‘bitten by the wine bug’, she went on to complete her master’s degree at Hochschule Geisenheim University in Germany, and now works full-time alongside her parents and her younger sister Lara.

‘My family members will have no hesitation in telling me what I did wrong, nor do they withhold criticism, which can spark a lot of arguments,’ says the 26-year-old oenologist, her fluent English carrying an easy confidence and warmth.

‘However, it also means that we can be really honest in a way you just can’t be in a purely professional relationship. I think this helps to achieve extraordinary results in the long run.’

Over the past two years, Gianna has taken charge of the family estate’s now 30ha vineyard and has become increasingly involved in the cellar, working closely with the winemaking team under Gianfranco’s guidance.

She quickly learned that ‘good intuition is sometimes more important than theory’ when it comes to winemaking, honing her own skill to ‘read’ a wine.

Besides upholding the family estate’s reputation for unwavering quality in its Malvazija, she also has her sights set on shaping her own legacy within Kozlović’s future.

‘I’ve become interested in cracking the code for producing a great red wine,’ she says. ‘I’m very passionate about researching great vineyard locations for Teran [the Istrian indigenous red grape] and I think it will be my personal challenge to try to produce the best Teran you’ve ever tried.’

Next instalment: Mathias Paicheler and Sarah Frissant & Reenen Borman

Wines from a new generation:

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Everyone knows her as Bepa, though Josipa Marinov is her name: white hair, scrawny, nimble, energetic. Bent double to prune then, a moment later, straightening and standing upright, her hand shading her eyes from the sun.

She called out to us, waving her secateurs. It was a sunny Saturday last June, mid-morning and hot already; she was out trimming the family’s red Babić vines with her sons. In her 80s… but looking and sounding 20 years younger.

She’d spotted us coming up the path; I was with Croatia’s leading wine writer Saša Špiranec and Leo Gracin, the professor of oenology at Split University. We’d just visited the fishing village of Primošten, with its waving tamarisk trees and white sand; Leo has his own vinarija cellar door there. Now we’d come down the coast; some of Leo’s own vines were close by.

While they chatted, Bepa’s laughter ringing in the air, I wandered towards the cobalt Adriatic inlet next to the vineyards and looked back. Garments aside, this same Saturday morning scene could have unfolded at any time over the last millennium.

Another scene, a few days earlier, on the island of Korčula: this vineyard, too, lay open to the sea, close to the village of Lumbarda; the vines (white Grk this time) grew in similar limestones. Frano Bire stood next to his €25,000 drone – waist-high on the ground, bulky as a condor – and I took a photo. Then we stood back while his son flew it. It lifted 20 metres, turned elegantly, then moved off to spray its 50-litre payload over the family vines, well clear of human lungs.

When I’d last visited Croatia in 2019, the Istrian wine-grower Gianfranco Kozlović had lamented Croatia’s ‘lost century’ to me, describing how three wars had swallowed the efforts of four generations. Indeed; but the country is catching up fast. What matters in wine-growing are the timeless gestures: work, care, observation, taste. All the progress we’ve made – the drones, the sorting machines, the gravity wineries – are only there to help us make those gestures more effectively.

Long time, geologists’ time, is the gift that has created our planet’s ever-changing landscapes and skies. Wine’s joy is difference; these are its ultimate source. A second gift, one that has evolved over human or millennial time, is genetic: grape varieties, our tools for revealing and perfecting difference. Dalmatia, Europe’s most intricate archipelago, has been lavished with both.

Its jigsaw of islands and peninsulas, of aspects and soils, of winds and waves is why both white and red varieties flourish equally here. The ‘black island’ of Korčula, so called because its native holm oaks looked sombre to passing ships, not only has the sinewy, sappy Grk (Frano Bire’s are benchmarks) but is home to the softer, scented white Pošip, Croatia’s biggest hit.

The island of Hvar has its own white specialities – the zesty Bogdanuša and fragrant Prč – while the third, more far-flung island of Vis makes apricotty whites from Vugava. Maraština is lighter and more delicate, found up and down the coast.

The reds are no less diverse. Babić is the juiciest and, according to Leo Gracin, it needs tough, stony soils of the sort that he and the Marinov family work; Lasina is silky and light. Tribidrag (the original Zinfandel) is lushly fruity, though more structured here than in California.

An island variety I loved was the densely textured Dobričić. It hails from tiny Šolta, though the example which so impressed me was grown in the mainland vineyard of Vlačine, just above the town of Kaštela, north of Split. It was crafted by Jakša Bedalov: dense and powerful, sumptuous yet concentrated.

The grandee is Plavac Mali, the offspring of Tribidrag and Dobričić. It’s grown throughout Dalmatia, but at its finest in the two astonishing vineyard zones of Postup and Dingač. These giant slopes face the Adriatic on the island-like peninsula of Pelješac, looking across to Korčula; they produce outsize, brooding winter reds. All are better known to tourists than on export markets as yet, but give them time. If you love difference, it’s here. Just waiting.

In my glass this month

The vast solar amphitheatre of Dingač is a ‘roasted slope’ if ever I saw one: getting its bulk and force into drinkable form is not easy. The Saints Hills, Ernest Tolj Dingač 2021 met the challenge: lithe freshness to its aromas; lifted, pure fruit; and an overall sense of grace and gentleness despite its compelling amplitude and power. It’s made from selected Plavac Mali fruit from the best spots on the big hill, in the finest years only. A winter wine to spend time with.

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While Croatia’s coastal wine regions of Dalmatia and Istria get plenty of attention, the under-the-radar region of Kvarner boasts not only a fascinating history, but a fantastic, burgeoning wine industry and world-class cuisine which leans heavily into Croatia’s maritime bounty.

In the deep Adriatic waters of the Gulf of Kvarner, an archipelago of islands supports both fishing and vine-growing industries and is home to many of the region’s wineries.

At the northern end of the gulf lies the city of Rijeka which is Croatia’s main port. Its naturally deep harbour has seen it serve as a maritime hub for countless cultures and rulers since the late Neolithic period.

A selection of wines from Kvarner listed below

Its history is nothing if not eventful.

With powerful defences to protect the harbour, Riejka has borne the brunt of numerous assaults over the centuries. It was burnt to the ground by Attila the Hun and later besieged by Charlemagne.

By the 16th century it rivalled Venice as an Adriatic power which led the latter to attack it jealously, and it was a bastion against the high tide of Ottoman incursions into the Balkans.

Ruled by the Habsburgs from the 15th century to 1918, from 1919-1920 the city was seized by Italian nationalist poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and run as an independent statelet until, in a welter of contradictions, d’Annunzio declared war on Italy and was deposed after the city was besieged and bombarded by Italian warships.

The city was then annexed by Italy until it became part of Yugoslavia in 1945 and finally Croatia in 1991.

Deep waters and deep wine roots

Rooted in indigenous varieties, the winemaking islands of Kvarner have a long vinous history, probably pre-dating the arrival of the Romans.

The region is largely housed within the Croatian county of Primorje-Gorski Kotar. On the mainland, this centres around the city of Rijeka and then extends across the main islands of the Kvarner Gulf archipelago – Krk, Pag, Rab and a cluster of islands around Cres and Lošinj.

But while it extends over a large geographic area, the land dedicated to vines is much smaller.

‘Kvarner is a small, specific boutique wine region, where mostly autochthonous grape varieties are planted,’ says Żarko Stilin, director of the Kvarner Wines regional entity.

‘Today, the entire Kvarner has about 200 hectares of vineyards, while historical documents indicate that there were [once] several thousand hectares of vineyards on the island of Krk alone.’

The island of Krk is the largest of Croatia’s many islands, and the largest in the entire Adriatic Sea. These days, the northern end is largely forested, while the southern parts of the island are characterised by white karst rock, fully exposed due to the strong bora winds, which can reach 100 km/h.

These winds blow into the Adriatic from the north/north-west. Today, tourists are drawn to the sleepy towns, the historic walled city of Krk, and the ample beaches, as well as the incredible fishing.

The decline

However, at one point, Krk was a hotbed for Croatian viticulture.

‘In some records from the 18th and 19th centuries, it is noted that more than half of the arable land on Krk was used for vineyards,’ says Egle Katunar, proprietor of the winery, Ivan Katunar.

‘Monasteries and noble families maintained vineyards, and wine was a major source of income for both the poor labourers and wealthy landowners.’

Krk and Kvarner generally were decimated, like much of Europe, by phylloxera towards the very end of the 1890s. Tourism eventually became the primary driver of the local economy, as Europeans – and eventually Americans – were drawn to the country’s hospitality, affordability and pristine beaches along the Adriatic.

‘While towns like Vrbnik became known for their Žlahtina and other local varieties, often cultivated on steep hillsides and seemingly on every available patch of land,’ says Katunar, ‘beginning in the 1960s, tourism boomed on Krk.

‘Land once used for vineyards was converted into apartments and tourist accommodations. Generational change also played a role as younger generations left agriculture, leading to further vineyard abandonment.’

A Kvarner wine revival

As Croatia has become one of the world’s top tourist destinations, people are starting to see beyond the beautiful beaches and blue Adriatic waters. Gastronomy, and with it, the local wines are leading the way in Kvarner.

‘The 1980s and 1990s saw a revival of local winemaking,’ explains Katunar. On Krk, this centres around the town of Vrbnik, on the northern side of the island, almost directly across from the historical city of Krk.

Infrastructure and organisation around viticulture and wine have also driven quality and recognition. In 2025, the Kvarner Wineries Association entries at DWWA received 12 medals.

Meanwhile, as tourists seek to escape the busier beaches of Dalmatia, Kvarner is becoming a region that is gaining major attention.

The seafood and accommodation in towns like Opatija, combined with great dining, including the Michelin-starred Nebo in the regional capital of Rijeka, have given Kvarner a reputation as a world-class destination.

Kvarner was designated by the International Institute for Gastronomy, Culture, Art, and Tourism as the ‘European Region of Gastronomy’ for 2026.

With a rising tide lifting all the region’s boats, the main focus has been on the natural pairing between local seafood and Kvarner’s most popular wine made from the white grape Žlahtina.

Ivica Dobrinčić and family, of the Šipun winery. Credit: Vedran Gašparović

Kvarner’s indigenous ‘queen’

Croatia is a land of indigenous varieties, boasting a reputed 130, one of the highest in Europe. In Kvarner, however, one reigns supreme.

‘Of the 37 indigenous varieties in Kvarner, we like to call Žlahtina the regional “queen” as it accounts for almost 90% of the wine produced here,’ says Żarko Stilin.

‘There are more than 40 labels produced from Žlahtina – from pet nat and frizzante sparkling wines to traditional method sparkling wines,’ he adds.

‘You can find fresher styles of Žlahtina, those fermented in barrel, as well as orange wines and the regional wine Prošek, traditionally produced from dried berries.’

The variety sets up well to create wines of complexity and nuance, perfect for the intricate flavours of the local seafood.

In terms of red wine, Sansigot, an ancient indigenous variety that was originally found on the island of Susak. No one is bottling a wine from Sansigot that’s grown there anymore, though it can be found on Krk.

Sadly, while Žlahtina accounts for approximately 95% of local plantings, Sansigot is nearing extinction; however, Krk winegrowers, particularly Ivica Dobrinčić of Sípun, are committed to its preservation.

‘Kvarner as a whole is witnessing a winemaking renaissance,’ says Egle Katunar. ‘There are now more wineries, better quality and creativity from a new generation of producers. Globally, wine enthusiasts, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, are exploring lesser-known regions, indigenous varieties, and natural wines. These are all areas where Kvarner has its strengths.’

Kvarner wines to try:

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On the picturesque Istrian coast, Vinistra hosted an unforgettable evening to showcase Croatian success at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Set against the backdrop of the exclusive Kempinski Hotel Adriatic beach in Savudrija, the Decanter 2025 Winners Showcase by Vinistra brought together nearly 200 guests from across the wine world, including DWWA judges, producers, media and industry professionals, for a unique walk-around tasting of Croatia’s top DWWA medal winners.

Croatia had a strong year at the 2025 competition, claiming 386 medals, including one prestigious Platinum, 28 Gold and a strong showing of Silver and Bronze medals.

Istrian producers, in particular, were standout performers, with Malvasia leading the charge. Five Malvasias were awarded Gold medals, while Benvenuti’s San Salvatore 2021 – a luscious dessert wine from 100% Muscat – earned the only Platinum, further cementing Istria’s growing reputation as one of Europe’s rising wine stars.

The Gold and Platinum medal-winning wines from Croatia available to taste at the Vinistra DWWA Winners Showcase were:

• Benvenuti, San Salvatore Muškat, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia, 2021 (Platinum, 97 points)
• Fakin, La Prima Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2023 (Gold, 96 points)
• Kozlovic, Santa Lucia Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2018 (Gold, 96 points)
• Bruno Ferenac, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2023 (Gold, 95 points)
• Hvar Hills Winery, Merlot, Srednja i Južna Dalmacija, Coastal 2022 (Gold, 95 points)
• Hvar Hills Winery, Syrah, Srednja i Južna Dalmacija, Coastal 2022 (Gold, 95 points)
• Vina Bernobić, Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (Value Gold, 95 points)
• Vina Frankovic, Korona Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2019 (Gold, 95 points)

During the event, winning producers were invited on stage to receive their DWWA certificates from DWWA Co-Chair Beth Willard and Dr Caroline Gilby MW, Regional Chair for the Balkans, Central & Eastern Europe and Croatia & Slovenia, who personally congratulated each of them.

Willard noted how Croatia has become an extremely important wine country and how the quality of wines keeps improving year on year. Gilby, a longtime advocate for the region, emphasised the strong sense of place and authenticity that Croatian wines now consistently deliver.

The showcase also attended other DWWA judges including Zsuzsa Toronyi and Senior Judge Igor Luković.

The event offered wine lovers the chance to discover DWWA medal-winning wines in a walk-around tasting, exploring the country’s potential for outstanding quality.

Other DWWA 2025 medal winners available to taste on the day:

Silver winners

• Rossi, Templara, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2023 (94 points)
• Deklić, Konstantin Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia, 2022 (94 points)
• Andelo Brčić, Barrique Merlot, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2019 (93 points)
• Fakin, Amfora Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (93 points)
• Fakin, Monte Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2023 (93 points)
• Benvenuti, Livio Teran, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (92 points)
• Kutjevo, De Gotho Graševina , Slavonija, Continental 2021 (92 points)
• Agrolaguna, Festigia Syrah, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (91 points)
• Bora, Maraština, Sjeverna Dalmacija, Coastal 2024 (91 points)
• Bora, Pošip, Coastal 2024 (91 points)
• Cmrečnjak, CMR Traminac Crveni, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental, Croatia, 2022 (91 points)
• Festigia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (91 points)
• Fuhtar, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (91 points)
• Kadum Vina, Selection Malvazija , Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia, 2022 (91 points)
• Kutjevo, Graševina, Slavonija, Continental 2024 (91 points)
• Medea, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (91 points)
• Opg Bertoša Robi, Berba Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (91 points)
• Vina Laguna, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (91 points)
• Bernobić, Teran, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (90 points)
• Cattunar, 4 Terre Black Soil Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (90 points)
• Cattunar, 4 Terre Black Soil Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (90 points)
• Fakin, Teran, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (90 points)
• Kadum Vina, Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia, 2024 (90 points)
• Kadum, Amphora Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia, 2022 (90 points)
• Kozlović, Selekcija Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (90 points)
• Kutjevo, De Gotho Pinot Crni, Slavonija, Continental 2021 (90 points)
• Kutjevo, Graševina, Slavonija, Continental 2024 (90 points)
• Medea Vinarija, Montiron, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2023 (90 points)
• Munđarov Breg, Sauvignon Blanc, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental, Croatia, 2023 (90 points)
• Opg Bertoša Robi, Berba Teran, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (90 points)
• Poletti, Cabernet Sauvignon, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2018 (90 points)
• Rossi, Monte D’oro Riserva, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (90 points)
• Zigante Vero, Malvazijia Verõ, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2020 (90 points)

Bronze winners

• Deklić, Teran, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (89 points)
• Frankovic, Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (89 points)
• Kadum Vina, Cuvée Dark, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (89 points)
• Kutjevo, Vinkomir Graševina, Slavonija, Continental 2023 (89 points)
• šTampar, Pušipel Classic, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (89 points)
• Valenta, Sauvignon Blanc, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (89 points)
• Andelo Brčić, Grand Cru Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2020 (88 points)
• Dobra Berba, Moe, Plešivica, Continental 2022 (88 points)
• Matošević, Alba Riserva Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (88 points)
• Matošević, Riserva Alba Robinia Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (88 points)
• šTampar, Pinot Sivi, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2023 (88 points)
• šTampar, Muškat žUti, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (88 points)
• Vinogradarstvo I Vinarstvo Stanko Kovač, Pušipel Classic, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (88 points)
• Zigante Vero, Teran , Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (88 points)
• Cmrečnjak, Classic Pušipel, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (87 points)
• Damjanić, Clémente Blanc, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (87 points)
• Dobra Berba, Crn Jak Zweigelt-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Plešivica, Continental 2022 (87 points)
• Kadum, Amphora Refošk, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (87 points)
• Kostanjevec, Graševina, Prigorje – Bilogora, Continental, Croatia, 2024 (87 points)
• Kostanjevec, Muškat žuti, Prigorje – Bilogora, Continental, Croatia, 2024 (87 points)
• Kostanjevec, Sauvignon Blanc, Prigorje – Bilogora, Continental, Croatia, 2024 (87 points)
• Kutjevo, Maximo Oro Graševina-Chardonnay, Slavonija, Continental 2022 (87 points)
• Pervino, Bračalet, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2023 (87 points)
• Pervino, Teraneo, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2022 (87 points)
• Poletti, Chardonnay, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (87 points)
• Stanko Kovač, Sauvignon, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (87 points)
• Vina Vuković, Pušipel , Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (87 points)
• Vina Vuković, Rajnski Rizling, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2024 (87 points)
• Zigante Vero, Malvazijia Istarska , Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (87 points)
• Cmrečnjak, Pušipel Mađerka, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2023 (86 points)
• Damjanić, Clemente, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2020 (86 points)
• Damjanić, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (86 points)
• Fakin, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2024 (86 points)
• Valenta, Terre Di Paradiso, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2021 (86 points)

Search all DWWA award-winning wines 

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Deep Purple said, ‘April is a cruel time’ in the bizarre 12-minute song, April, the last track on their third album, brilliantly titled Deep Purple III.

Respectfully, I disagree. April can be a great time, as spring brings slumbering greenery to life, and opportunities to visit wine regions, near, like the Dundee Hills and far, like Croatia’s Kvarner region, came my way, I embraced April, despite Deep Purple’s jaded take on the month.

Oh, and New York City was in there too, how can I forget? I was there to promote our New York Fine Wine Encounter, on 7 June. Less than a month away!

Scroll down for scores and reviews of Clive’s selection of wines from his April tastings

Come out to the coast, we’ll have a few laughs

I had got word through the grapevine that the Croatian national government wanted to honour the scribblings of yours truly, so who was I to say no?

All kidding aside, the Croatian tourism board gave me the Gold Pen Award for my coverage of the country’s wines in 2024, so off to Istria I went.

A side journey to the region of Kvarner opened up yet another gem in that country’s fascinating array of growing regions, principally centered around the island of Krk.

I was able to taste and dine with a few of Kvarner’s producers and visit the region’s largest vineyard, planted to Zlahtina. A white indigenous variety. Croatia has over 100 such wine varieties originating in this diverse growing region.

This is a country I’ve been visiting for almost a decade, and I continue to be impressed with the direction the wines are taking. If you’ve never been to Croatia, its food, wine and immense natural beauty are a great reason to visit.

I did a little truffle hunting and sightseeing in a storybook town called Grožjnan, a charming village high in the Istrian hills. Our awards ceremony was held at the Kozlović winery, who make some of the country’s best white wines. It was a whirlwind, but the kind you enjoy.

The Dundee Hills turns 20

The Dundee Hills Winegrowers Association invited me to help them celebrate their 20th birthday. They can legally start drinking their own product next year.

We hosted a panel for consumers and industry members alike to look back at where Oregon Pinot Noir got its start, and forward to the undeniably bright future.

I was joined on the panel by pioneering winegrowing Allen Holstein, second-generation Dundee Hills growers Jesse Lange and Paul Durant and one of the region’s rising stars, winemaker Kate Payne Brown.

Anytime I’m down in the Willamette, I try to schedule a few tastings. For my quick one-day visit, I shoehorned in two exciting stops. First up was Abbott Claim, where the very talented Alban Debeaulieu is making the wines, including my top wine of last year’s Decanter Top 50 US Wines.

I find his 2022 vintage wines, particularly a couple of his Chardonnays, to be exhilarating, as you’ll see below, the Temperance Hill bottling really captivated me.

He also told me about a special project the folks at Abbott Claim are working on. From there, I checked in with Craig Williams of X Novo, the longtime brains behind Joseph Phelps.

He left California behind for the wilds of Oregon. Williams has planted a couple of vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills from which winemakers are clamouring to source fruit.

The X Omni site, in particular, makes electrifying Chardonnay.

The Big Apple

The last trip of my whirlwind April was New York City for a little event promotion. As the only full-time Decanter person in the country, someone’s gotta do it, and well, that someone is me.

After sharing a natural wine at Frenchette with our columnist Eliza Dumais, I hosted a couple of cool Decanter events. One was a dinner at the famed Carlyle hotel, just across from Central Park, where I highlighted the American wines that were among the top in the 2024 DWWA judging.

They included an array of Chardonnays and a top-rated Pinot Noir, a Best in Show wine from Oregon’s Audeant.

My trip was rounded out by a fantastic tasting at Millesima, where we previewed our Fine Wine Encounter masterclasses from Veuve Cliquot, Biondi Santi and the Rioja DOCa.

I also hit up a few pizza places, including my favourite, Scarr’s. Let’s grab a slice together if you’re coming to our Fine Wine Encounter.

Further highlights

This month, my wine highlights included several bottles from the Willamette Valley. In addition to the Abbott Claim, the 00Wines, X Novo, and Granville bottles were serious standouts.

I was really taken by the Love & Squalor Temperance Hill Pinot Noir. With a little age on it, it’s loaded with elegance.

The 2022 vintage from Reynvaan Family Vineyards, largely in The Rocks District, shows tremendous balance with that regional depth. There were a couple of California wines from Ridge Vineyards and Tablas Creek also got my attention.

You can see all the wines we taste in our Decanter database.

If you don’t subscribe to our weekly US newsletter, you can do so here.

Clive’s selection of 10 top wines from April

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Dalmatia is a modern-day paradise, perched along Croatian’s Adriatic coast. Tourists the world over flock to its crystal blue waters and enchanting ancient towns from Dubrovnik to Split and Zadar on the region’s northern limit, their red roofs basking in the sun.

Dalmatia’s coast and plentiful islands have long harboured a wine culture built on indigenous grape varieties that are tough to say and spell owing to their Slavic roots and abundant consonants.

The flagship wine for Dalmatia has long been Plavac Mali, a hearty red variety known for its higher alcohols and ample tannins. But as the region becomes a summertime playground for tourists and serious wine drinkers beginning to explore Dalmatia’s myriad varieties, a lighter, fresher style is being sought in red and white wines.

I recently visited the region twice after a 10-year hiatus and was taken by the wines being produced today and the fresh, youthful energy driving a wine renaissance.

Scroll down for the tasting notes and scores from some of Dalmatia’s rising stars

The California connection

While the younger US wine industry is more established than Croatia’s, the coastal region of Dalmatia has been intimately linked to California. Zinfandel, the variety which launched California’s fine wine boom in the late 19th century, is genetically identical to the indigenous grape from Dalmatia.

Known locally by two names, Crljenak Kaštelanski and Tribidrag. The Dalmatian region of Kaštela and its rocky soils were confirmed as the original home of Zinfandel in a genetic analysis by UC Davis scientist Carole Meredith conducted in the 1990s.

The finding has reinvigorated local interest in the variety that had long given ground to the more regionally popular and easier to cultivate, Plavac Mali. Varietal Tribidrag and Crljenak have seen plantings increase in the last 10 years.

In addition to California’s fine wine origins having deep Dalmatian roots, one of the most historically significant American winemakers also comes from the Dalmatian coast.

Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich was born in the hillside village of Desne, above the Neretva River, in April 1923. He would flee (what was then) Yugoslavia via Germany and Canada before making his way to the Napa Valley in 1958.

There, he would craft perhaps the most important wine in American history. At Chateau Montelena, in 1973, Grgich made the white wine that won the 1976 Judgement of Paris, besting the best white Burgundies in the competition and shaking the world of wine to its core.

His Chardonnay showed that America could produce wine as well as anywhere in the world.

A stylistic shift

The variety most associated with Dalmatia is the big, boisterous red wine from the long-heralded Plavac Mali. Hearty and a tad rustic, Plavac Mali is high in alcohol and tannin.

It has long been the primary driver for the region’s fine wine industry and is responsible for the fine wine world paying attention to Dalmatia.

The region’s signature wine, it can certainly develop elegance with age but remains a robust wine that stylistically is a bit of a throwback to the days of high scores correlating to big fruit and opulence with very low acidity, making balance a challenge.

The best examples show refinement and ageability, making a case for Plavac Mali made in a more elegant, classic style.

And as Dalmatia’s winemakers evolve their approach, they’re embracing white and red wines that are lighter, fresher, and more in vogue.

Leaning into the historic indigenous grapes and exploring international varieties, a select group of Dalmatian producers are raising the bar in Dalmatia, making fresh, captivating wines.

Dalmatian producers on the rise:

Ante Sladić

In the tiny village of Plastovo, some of the most exciting wines in Croatia are being made. Just around the corner from the renowned natural wine producer Bibich sits Ante Sladić, an exciting Dalmatian winery that leans on generations of wine growing and winemaking tradition.

Winemaker Ante Sladič embraces fresher takes on indigenous grapes like Maraština, Debit, Plavina and a glorious variety that only grows in the hills outside of Skradin near the Krka River, Lasina.

As red wines in Dalmatia go, Lasina is an outlier. Its vibrant acidity and savoury, red-fruited character make it a standout, evocative of Pinot Noir or perhaps Gamay. The cool evenings of the area surrounding the Krka River preserve Lasina’s brightness.

It’s a difficult grape to farm and to make wine from, owing to its vigorous canopies, uniquely high acidity and lower levels of sugar accumulation. Well worth the effort, it’s a wine of purity and precision, at once delicate and vibrant.

Lasina is a rare variety that only grows in a 50-kilometre radius around the hills of Skradin; however, it may point towards the future of Dalmatian wines in terms of style, light-bodied and lower in alcohol, a definite chillable red for those hot Dalmatian summer days.

Degarra

The Degarra winery, a translation of vin de garage, is in Zadar County, the far northern coast of Dalmatia. It is a partnership between Mate Pestić and Dane Šulentić, along with Dane’s wife Dragana, the winemaker.

The partnership came together as Mate Pestić inherited a family vineyard from his grandfather, and serendipity brought Dane and Dragana Šulentić into his orbit. They make wine in an old Yugoslavian military depot, which apparently formerly stored everything from landmines to trombones.

Degarra produces wines from local varieties as well as international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. While these wines are wildly popular locally, their treatment of the indigenous variety Maraština is a standout from all the Dalmatian wines I’ve tasted.

They are serious about ageability, which may be the key to unlocking the great potential of Dalmatian wine.

Prović

South towards the Pelješac Peninsula, the Neretva River flows from its headwaters in the Dinaric Alps through Bosnia and Herzegovina before passing through Croatia to the Adriatic Sea.

In the lower Neretva delta, the estate vines of the Prović winery are cultivated near the town of Opuzen. Here, the vines are planted in soils reclaimed from the river delta, sea shells embedded in the fertile soils.

Now in its second generation, young winemaker Vjeko and his sister Monika Prović lead the family business.

Looking down on Opuzen from the foothills of the Dinaric Alps sits the small village of Desne. The birthplace of Mike Grgich, one of the most critical figures in Croatian and American wine.

Grigch opened his Croatian winery in 1996, Grgić Vina, inspiring a revolution in fine wine here. Spurred on by Mike’s landmark American wine from Chateau Montelena, they’ve planted Chardonnay, the first in the southern reaches of Dalmatia, amidst more than 100 indigenous varieties.

A saline minerality and sterling acidity mark their outstanding white wines. It’s a throughline across the range from the indigenous Zlatarica to the celebratory Chardonnay, which shines alongside the rich river gastronomy of frog and eel, unique to the region.

Rizman

Rizman has a long history in Dalmatian wine. The current winemaker and owner, Damir Štimac, can trace his family’s roots in wine to the early 20th century; his great-grandfather, Mihovil Mijo Popich, made wine in the town of Opuzen and was known by the nickname Rizman.

Today, the winery and tasting room sits atop the hill in Komarna, a region they founded. Looking out at the bridge to the Pelješac Peninsula, the views are breathtaking. They began planting 22 hectares of vineyard in 2008, along with over 1,700 olive trees.

The region is entirely organic, and the Štimac family is committed to indigenous varieties. Plavac Mali and Pošip comprise 90% of their plantings, with Tribidrag (Zinfandel) making up the remainder.

While it’s a hot region, the wines retain great tension and acidity; Damir credits the wind and cold nights high on the exposed slopes above the Adriatic Sea.

The Plavac Mali bottlings from Rizman, particularly their Primus, show a refined and classic character to the variety that is few and far between.

Korta Katarina

Staring out at the Adriatic, Korta Katarina sits on the Pelješac Peninsula. Perched along the road, just before the town of Orebić, where one takes the ferry to the island of Korčula. Korta Katarina was founded by an American couple, Lee and Penny Anderson, who purchased the property after helping rebuild Croatia after the war.

In addition to a vineyard planted completely to Plavac Mali and their winery, Korta Katarina operates a luxury villa on the property.

Often, when wines are attached to a larger resort property, they are seen as an accessory; at Korta Katarina, they are the focus. Over the years, they have developed a reputation for crafting some of the finest Plavac Mali in all of Dalmatia.

They source fruit for their top wines from both Postup, where the estate vineyards sit, and nearby Dingač, both on the Pelješac peninsula. These two regions are considered Dalmatia’s top appellations with protected designations that date to the 1960s and Yugoslavia, planted exclusively to Plavac Mali.

Winemaker Ante Cibilić is one of the young names raising the profile and modernising the styles of Dalmatia’s indigenous wines. Crafting age worthy wines that show nuance and a sense of place.

Dalmatia rising: 15 wines from the region’s top producers

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Originally built as a luxury hotel in the 1940s, this stately villa overlooking the Adriatic Sea sits on the picturesque Dalmatian coast, just outside the town of Orebić, on the Pelješac peninsula. American philanthropists Lee and Penny Anderson purchased the property after helping to rebuild Croatia in the post-war period. The property is a Relais & Châteaux member.

The Andersons spent nearly a decade transforming this historic villa into a haven of luxury. Reopened in December 2018, it now offers eight exclusive suites, each a masterpiece of design by Marie Meko. These suites, with their own distinct character, offer breathtaking views of the Adriatic, blending the charm of antique furnishings with the convenience of modern technology.

For those seeking relaxation, an infinity pool and hot tub, perched on the rocky Adriatic shore offer a serene escape. Korta Katarina also provides a range of indulgent spa treatments. To complete the experience, each night of your stay includes a delectable meal with perfectly paired wines. Beyond the villa, Korta Katarina operates vineyards and a boutique winery, seamlessly blending luxury and nature.

A well-pointed fitness centre, hot tub, sauna and steam room are tucked into the villa’s ground floor to prioritise guests’ healthy routines.

In addition to the villa during the summer’s high season, you may inquire about booking the Katherine, a luxury motor yacht. Katharine is a 61.3m CRN classic traditional style yacht with a canoe stern and luxury amenities aplenty; this luxurious sea-faring accommodation can hold up to 12 guests in six staterooms.

Backed up to the villa’s property line is a working vineyard planted entirely to the indigenous variety Plavac Mali. Adjacent to the luxury villa is a working winery with a tasting room, production facilities, and a full barrel room.

The wines made at the Korta Katarina winery are no mere vanity project – it produces some of the best Plavac Mali (the principal red wine grape grown along the coast) in Dalmatia. Its Reuben’s Private Reserve is a wine with plenty of age; the current release, 2013, was awarded a Gold medal at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards. The house wines are exquisite, with Ante Cibilić, one of the top young winemakers in the region, in charge of production.

The villa staff will make personal reservations for interested guests with winemakers throughout the region. Just minutes down the road in Orebić, a ferry takes wine lovers to the island of Korčula, one of Dalmatia’s most important wine-growing focal points. Korčula is home to dozens of wineries and vineyards, many perched just above the sea. Two indigenous white grapes originated here and are perhaps the rarest in Dalmatia; Grk only grows on the east end of the island of Korčula, around the town of Lumbarda.

In the charming walled 13th-century town of Korčula, history abounds. Locals claim this was the birthplace of Marco Polo. Some of Croatia’s top restaurants, including the Michelin star LD restaurant, are tucked into the old and winding cobbled streets and the broad pedestrian boulevard that circles the city.

For more information and to book see the villa’s website.

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It seems that everywhere you turn in the wine world, you’ll find a grape called Malvasia – according to the ultimate scientific grapevine database VIVC.de, there are as many as 290 of them. And many are delicious, so are definitely worth exploring.

The name ‘Malvasia’ is widespread across the Mediterranean basin and into the Atlantic as far as Madeira and the Canary Islands, and it would be logical to assume there’s a family connection.

However, in these days of DNA analysis, there are no dark family secrets and scientists have worked out that most grapes going by the name Malvasia are unrelated to each other – and in many cases, the name has been attached to other grapes entirely. The mystery is why Malvasia became such a popular name and where it came from.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 12 outstanding Malvasia wines to seek out

Centuries of history

There are several colourful historical tales about Malvasia. In Richard III, first published in 1597, Shakespeare refers to the Duke of Clarence being drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine (the name for the sweetest Malvasia wine from Madeira).

In 1498, Leonardo da Vinci had a small vineyard of 16 rows of vines in Milan granted to him by Duke Ludovico Maria ‘Il Moro’ Sforza, as a reward for his works as he was completing The Last Supper. Genetic analysis of traces of vine roots suggests that the vines were Malvasia di Candia Aromatica – the vineyard has been replanted with Malvasia and makes wine again today.

But written history goes back much further, to 1214, when there is a reference to Malvasia wine being served ‘in abundance’ at a church delegation in Constantinople, so it was already likely to have been a prestigious wine by then.

At that time, it was closely connected to Monemvasia in Greece, a Byzantine fortress town built on a rock in the Laconia region of southeast Peloponnese. It was also the trading centre of the larger administrative area of Monemvasia. The Venetian rulers of the fortress of Monemvasia named it Malvasia and used the name for the wine that they exported.

It seems that only sweet wine from sundried grapes, or sometimes boiled must, was stable enough to be shipped long distances, and by the 14th century, records indicate that the wine from this region was called Malvasia in the markets of Venice; even wine shops were named Malvasie.

Originally this name referred to its origin – it was considered excellent, with a reputation so good that it became a luxury product under the name Malvasia-Monemvasia. As trade grew, the region couldn’t keep up with demand and traders started to ‘franchise’ the brand to places in Greece beyond Laconia (Paros and Crete).

At the peak of trade, the quantities required were so large that Muscats and other indigenous grape varieties were being used, and by the end of the 16th century, only a handful of pure Malvasias from the original grape were still being produced.

Gradually the name became a description of style rather than geographical origin – something that has happened numerous times elsewhere with names such as Champagne, Sherry, Port and Burgundy, before the EU became protective.

By 1540, the Monemvasia area came under Ottoman rule, which disrupted wine production here; however, due to steadily increasing demand, wines of similar style were produced even more widely around the Mediterranean and marketed as Malvasia.

Possibly Greek varieties had been introduced to establish vineyards, but over time, domestic varieties took over, probably better suited to local growing conditions. In time, if the wines were especially admired, the name Malvasia became linked to a designation of origin (eg, Malvasia Istriana or Malvasia Dubrovačka – see ‘Key Malvasia varieties to know’ box, below). And over time, wine styles shifted towards drier and more aromatic examples.

Modern manifestations

Many of the grapes called Malvasia are often hidden as part of blends or behind denomination names – just a few examples include Malvasia del Chianti as a permitted minor blending component in red Chianti DOCG, or Frascati, which must be 70% Malvasia di Candia and/or Malvasia di Lazio (known as Malvasia Puntinata locally).

The focus here will be on wines that feature Malvasia in their name.

One highlight has to be the revival, or as close as possible, of sweet PDO Monemvasia-Malvasia wine in its birthplace after a gap of five centuries. This was born from the dream of Yorgos and Elli Tsimbidi to recreate this ancient style, with the support of the late Dr Stavroula Kourakou Dragona, and the Universities of Athens and Thessaloniki.

The first release of this wine was the 2010 vintage, and the second was the 2012, bottled in 2016 after long ageing. It’s a Vin Liastos made from grapes sundried for at least two weeks on racks or on straw (an unusual hazard is wild boar, which have a taste for these sweet grapes).

It’s a blend of 60% of the Monemvasia-Malvasia grape variety with other local grapes that bring acidity to balance the natural luscious sweetness in this stunning piece of history in a glass.

Key Malvasia varieties to know

Malvasia Istriana

Main synonyms: Malvazija Istarska, Malvazija.

Main countries & area planted: Croatia 1,551ha, Slovenia 987ha.

Malvasia Dubrovačka

Main synonyms: Malvasia de Lipari, Malvasia de Sitges, Malvasia de la Palma, Malvasia di Bosa.

Main countries & area planted: Italy – Sicily 170ha & Sardinia 115ha, Spain – Catalonia 128ha & Canary/Balearic Islands 213ha, Croatia 32ha.

Malvasia Bianca Lunga

Main synonyms: Maraština, Malvasia del Chianti, Malvasia Toscana, Rukatac, Pavlos.

Main countries & area planted: Italy – Tuscany 1,247ha, Croatia 315ha, Greece [insufficient data].

Malvasia Bianca

Main synonyms: Malvasia di Rioja.

Main countries & area planted: Italy – Lazio 4,300ha.

Malvasia Bianca di Candida

Main synonyms: Malvasia Candia.

Main countries & area planted: Italy – Lazio 9,685ha, USA 486ha, Brazil 165ha.

Malvasia Volcanica

Main synonyms: Malvasia di Lanzarote.

Main countries & area planted: Spain – Canary Islands 786ha.

Malvasia del Lazio

Main synonyms: Malvasia Puntinata, Malvasia Gentile.

Main countries & area planted: Italy – Lazio 680ha.

Malvasia Riojana

Main synonyms: Alarije.

Main countries & area planted: Spain 4,905ha.

Malvasia Fina

Main synonyms: Boal, Malvasia Fina do Douro.

Main countries & area planted: Portugal 3,282ha.

Monemvasia-Malvasia

Main countries & area planted: Greece 81ha.

Malvasia Nera di Brindisi

Main synonyms: Malvasia Nera di Lecce, Malvasia Nera di Bari.

Main countries & area planted: Italy 1,264ha.

(Sources: Vinistra, Vivc.de, Slovenian official data, OIV; Quattrocalici. Compiled by Dr Kristijan Damijanic, October 2023. Based on data from 2020-2023).

Lost origins

No one quite knows when Malvasia switched to typically being dry wine – which is the main style today. There’s an intriguing story that features Malvasia Volcánica on the island of Lanzarote, where this is the predominant grape.

The El Grifo winery was founded in 1775 and is the oldest on the island, but it broke new ground recently with the first-ever winter-harvest wine in Europe made from Malvasia Volcánica, named Vendimia de Invierno.

Hard pruning after the harvest in September enabled a spring harvest in February 2023 from vines by the coast, where temperatures had already reached 25°C. The vine pest phylloxera isn’t present on this volcanic island and most vines are planted at 250m or more, benefiting from a distinct Atlantic influence.

The winter harvest wine (now all sold) was made by carbonic maceration of whole berries, but the producer also has classic wines: typically fresh, saline and vibrant, often with an aromatic orange blossom character.

The Istrian approach

Malvasia Istriana, or Malvazija Istarska as it’s more commonly known in Croatia and Slovenia, may be the most important Malvasia to take pride of place on wine labels.

Its origin remains a mystery due to a lack of close relatives in Croatia or abroad. Professor Ivan Pejić (University of Zagreb) explains: ‘Based on my previous research, the genotype of Malvasia Istriana is to some extent related to rare Croatian native varieties from Kvarner and the Dalmatian hinterland. However, up to now, we have not found any direct parent-offspring relationship and no links with Italy or Greece at all.’

The current best theory is that Istria is its homeland. And Malvasia Istriana has certainly made a home here as a superstar variety. In Croatia, it’s the second most important grape, despite only growing in Istria.

It only came to prominence between the world wars, when a meeting in 1931 identified it as a priority for the region for producing premium and luxury wines. Sadly, it went through a difficult socialist period as a volume workhorse, but several visionary producers rescued it in the 1990s and today it’s proving its mettle across all styles.

Malvasia Istriana is an adaptable grape with high quality potential, though fresh, fruity, steel-fermented styles account for about two-thirds of production. These are perfect for summer drinking by the sea, but even such ‘simple’ wines can defy expectations and keep for up to two decades.

At lower yields and from the best sites, it suits judicious use of oak, skin contact and even orange wines (see recommendations). It can display a slightly honeyed, jasmine character that can work well with fermentation and ageing in acacia wood.

To complete the picture, there are good traditional-method sparkling (such as Kabola’s Re Brut and Agrolaguna’s Festigia Blanc de Moi Brut) and even rare passito sweet wines such as Benvenuti’s Corona Grande.

Malvasia Istriana is also found in Slovenia’s part of northern Istria, producing nicely mineral, saline versions. It also does well inland, where it’s usually just labelled Malvazija.

The grape arrived in the Brda hills (abutting the border with northeast Italy) when the area was part of the Venetian Republic (ended 1797), and in the past, it was used to add aromatics to blends with the more neutral Rebula grape. In the 20th century, Malvasia Istriana survived socialism as it was planted in the lower, more frost-prone areas, since it’s more cold-resistant.

Malvasia Istriana is also gaining popularity as a single variety as it does well in sites with more clay, which don’t suit Slovenia’s flagship Rebula variety. It’s also able to ripen in drought years, thanks to the moisture in the clay.

Aleks Simčič (of Edi Simčič winery) describes it as having more Mediterranean herbal notes, typically rosemary and thyme, and white pepper aromatics, compared to the fruitier, floral coastal versions.

Other Malvasias to know

Croatia also has other Malvasias that aren’t related to the Istrian version, nor have they been found in Greece. Near Dubrovnik, Malvasia Dubrovačka (see ‘Key Malvasia varieties to know’ box) has quite a story of rescue.

The variety lays claim to being the oldest indigenous Croatian grape mentioned in writing, as an archive document from 1383 kept in Dubrovnik refers to it. Malvasia Dubrovačka had almost disappeared and was down to just 250 vines in 2001, yet it has now been revived to 40ha all around the Dubrovnik region.

It’s also being brought back in Sitges on Spain’s Catalonian coast, where the planting has gone from 2ha to 128ha. Vinified as a mineral, orange-scented dry wine in Croatia, it also makes great sweet wines and even orange wines in Lipari, off the northern coast of Sicily.

Then there’s another grape with a complex history of travel around the region. The variety called Maraština in Croatia is at least five centuries old and has been found to be genetically identical to Malvasia Bianca Lunga and Malvasia del Chianti. Plus, in Italy, there are several black-skinned Malvasia grapes, such as Malvasia Nera di Casorzo (Piedmont), di Basilicata, di Brindisi and more.

Gathering pace

The Malvasia story could continue further. There’s even an annual wine competition in Croatia, The World of Malvasia, organised by Istria’s producer association Vinistra, which aims to bring together as many versions of the grape as possible.

Twelve countries have entered their wines so far, including unexpected places such as Germany, Brazil, the USA and Australia, as well as better known Malvasia countries. In 2024, there were 340 entries from 11 countries.

Although the mystery may not be 100% solved, it’s clear that Malvasia is a name with a long, complex story, and in its many forms is worth exploring, whether for a snapshot of its glorious history or a taste of its amazing modern faces.

Gilby’s pick: 12 of the best from the heartlands of Malvasia

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• Croatian winemakers celebrate record-breaking performance at the Decanter World Wine Awards

Politicians, wine writers, sommeliers and trade professionals from across Europe gathered to celebrate Croatia’s record medal haul at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Tugomir Majdak, State Secretary for Agriculture, was among the dignitaries that gathered at the 5-star Kempinski Hotel Adriatic in Istria for the special event.

Guests tasted the best wines from 40 different producers, who won 366 medals in total at this year’s DWWA. Caroline Gilby MW, the regional DWWA chair for Central Europe, Eastern Europe, Croatia and Slovenia, handed out the awards.

She said: ‘It’s wonderful to see the enormous progress that Istrian winemakers have made in the last 10 years, as evidenced by the medals from the evaluations, with Decanter’s judging criteria being very strict.

‘The focus is solely on quality, and the entire viticultural year is evaluated in a glass. Today, in a glass of Malvasia and Teran, you can see all the beauties of the Istrian peninsula, as well as the character of Istrian winemakers,’ she added.

Sylvia Wu, Decanter’s regional editor for Asia, Northern Europe and Eastern Europe, also attended the Decanter 2024 Winners’ Showcase on the Adriatic coast. ‘We have discovered excellent wines not only in Istria but throughout Croatia, and since last year, Croatia has been featured on Decanter’s wine map,’ she said.

The number of award-winning wines from Croatia has been steadily increasing in recent years. Croatian winemakers won 314 medals at the DWWA in 2022, a tally that rose to 358 in 2023 and a record 366 this year.

Twelve Croatian producers won gold medals at the 2024 awards: Casa Boschi, Fakin, Galić, Marija Kolarek, Meneghetti, St. Jerome, Tasovac, Viña Deak, Vina Furjan, Vizzulin, Zigante and Zure. Coastal producers performed well, especially those in Istria, but continental producers also enjoyed success.

Vinistra, the association of Istrian winegrowers and winemakers, teamed up with Decanter to organise the exclusive event. President Luka Rossi said he was ‘extremely proud’ of the region’s medal haul and congratulated all the awarded Croatian winemakers. Ezio Pinzan, head of the Department for Agriculture, Forestry, Hunting, Fisheries and Hunting Economy of the Istrian County, also added his congratulations.

‘Having Decanter in Istria is a great recognition for all winemakers and the Vinistra association, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year,’ said Pinzan.

The association has been working hard to put the region on the global wine map, and recently ran a helicopter tour of 15 top Istrian vineyards for international wine experts.

Kristjan Staničić, director of the Croatian National Tourist Board, believes that the awards can help to cement the country’s status as a popular tourism destination. Croatia received 20.6 million visitors in 2023, up from 18.9 million the previous year.

‘The arrival of Decanter in Croatia and the world’s most influential wine evaluation is a significant step in the growth of Croatian oenology and domestic tourism as a whole,’ said Staničić.

‘This event can be considered a confirmation that our country is continuously working on the quality development of wine production, thereby elevating oeno-gastronomy as one of the sought-after tourist products that often represent an important motive for guests to choose a destination.’

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

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If there is one country’s wine quality evolution to follow at the Decanter World Wine Awards, it might well be Croatia.

In just two years, the country has more than tripled its Gold medal count at the international competition. But what’s more, its indigenous varieties have featured in the realm of quality improvement.

Divided into four major wine regions, Istria, the largest peninsula in the Adriatic, is marked by its proud producers, determined to make a name for their region’s staple varieties: the white Malvazija (locally Malvazija Istarska) and red Teran.

For the ambitious winemaker and adventurous wine enthusiast, Malvazija is remarkably varied. It can be produced and enjoyed in a light, fresh style, but its intrigue comes from time maturing on lees, in oak, on skins or aged in bottle.

Scroll down to discover 15 Istrian wines to try from DWWA 2023

With the region’s red mainstay Teran, producers have found ways to thoughtfully cultivate, vinify and harness the full potential of this local variety, embracing and fine tuning its tannins to produce fruity, elegant reds which can, and have proven to, compete on the world stage.

The authenticity inherent in Istria is skilfully mirrored by the adeptness of its producers. Aware that quality starts in the vineyard, they intrinsically understand Istria’s distinctive red, white, grey and black soils and how each influences their indigenous varieties and the subsequent wines produced.

‘This is a country with incredible diversity,’ commented Caroline Gilby MW, DWWA Regional Chair. ‘Each region has a strong story and distinctive identity; there’s always something new to discover.’

Below explore 15 regional standouts from the 2023 competition, with more to seek out at awards.decanter.com

Istrian Authenticity: 15 Malvazija and Teran wines to try

Malvazija

Kabola, Unica 2019

Gold, 96 points 

kabola.hr

Concentrated and full of flavour, this has a distinct definition and pleasant aromas of ripe pear and Mirabelle plum. Intense fruit on the palate accompanied by poached plum notes, with a long mineral finish. Alcohol 14%

Vinarija Rossi, Malvazija Istarska 2022

Value Gold, 95 points

vinarossi.com

Wonderfully crafted, boasting a delightful honeyed and floral aroma and flavour. Its refreshing acidity and distinctive, lingering finish make it truly exceptional. A superb choice for any occasion. Alc 12.5%

Vivoda, St Euphemia Malvazija 2019

Gold, 95 points

vina-vivoda.hr

Beautiful complexity with rich and elegant oaky flavours, complemented perfectly by zippy acidity. It’s full-bodied and finishes with delightful notes of peach and nectarine that linger. Lovely. Alc 13.8%

Eliđo Pilato, Malvazija Sur Lie 2019

Silver, 94 points

£34.80 (2015) Croatian Fine Wines, Novel Wines

Salted citrus, camomile and candied pineapple aromatics – glorious. Sleek and supple on the palate with crisp acidity and a floral complexity. Long on the finish. Alc 13.5%

Roberto Terzolo, Campi del Bosco 2022

Silver, 94 points

@vinaterzolo

Classic nose of green melon, apple and camomile. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and lively notes of spice and minerals. Long, floral finish. Alc 13%

Damjanić, Akacija 2020

Silver, 93 points

£21-£25 (2016) Croatian Fine Wines, Novel Wines

Good depth of colour with creamy complexity and aromas of hay and peach. Lovely fruit intensity on the honeyed, layered, delicate palate. Long finish. Alc 13.5%

Ivan Kadum, Malvazija 2022

Silver, 93 points

kadumwines.com

Youthful apple blossom nose. Fresh, zesty, vivid and pure in the mouth with juicy acidity. A good expression with a long finish. Alc 13%

Fakin, Amfora Malvazija Istarska 2020

Silver, 92 points

fakinwines.com

Floral, pineapple and saline nose. Serious complexity on the long, intense palate. Long, warming finish. One to enjoy with food. Alc 14.5%

Poletti, Classica Malvazija Istarska 2020

Silver, 92 points

vina-poletti.hr

Rich and full style with soft oak, nectarine, sweet spice, dried apricot and vanilla aromas. The palate is rounded with an oily texture. Persistent finish. Alc 13.5%

Agrolaguna, Vina Laguna Malvazija Istarska 2022

Silver, 90 points

agrolaguna.hr

Floral, citrus and herbal aromas. The palate has notes of lime and apple, with crisp acidity and a light mineral note. Persistent finish. Alc 12.8%

Teran

Benvenuti, Livio Teran 2019

Gold, 96 points

benvenutivina.com

An elegant wine with ripe red fruit aromatics. The palate is juicy and well structured with plenty of tannins and integrated sweet oak. Engaging, with lots going on and a long, smooth finish. Alc 13%

Benvenuti, Anno Domini Teran 2012

Gold, 95 points

£17 (2018) Howard Ripley

A fantastic wine still amazingly in fine fettle with a complex floral, raspberry and tobacco leaf bouquet, a structured palate, lively acidity, supple tannins, a lovely taste of forest berries and excellent length. Alc 14%

Kozlović, Selekcija Teran 2021

Gold, 95 points

kozlovic.hr

Beautiful floral, candied red fruit, spice and wild cherry aromatics. The palate has fine tannins, a spicy, dark fruit character and a very long, oaky finish. Fantastic drinking. Alc 13.5%

Fakin, Il Primo Teran 2020

Silver, 92 points

fakinwines.com

Inky, complex nose of coffee, dried cherry and tobacco leaf. The palate is soft and elegant with supple tannins and a long finish. Alc 14.5%

Vinarija Medea, Teran 2021

Silver, 91 points

medea.hr

Aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry. Juicy, vibrant and youthful with plenty of tannins and great varietal character. Alc 12.5%

Search all DWWA 2023 results

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• A taste of Croatia: 15 exciting wines to seek out
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It’s simultaneously one of Europe’s most ancient winemaking regions – and one of its most up-and-coming. And yet, for whatever reason, Croatia is perhaps not the first holiday destination to come to mind for the vinous traveller. But the appeal of the sun-soaked Istrian peninsula, circled in blue Adriatic Sea, becomes abundantly obvious when you check into Meneghetti Wine Hotel. Set just inland from a west-facing coast flecked with beach, ancient Roman ruins and vineyards aplenty, the secluded Relais & Châteaux estate dishes up both old-world charm and an exciting wine offering; including bottles crafted onsite. Dare we say it, who needs Italy or France?

Indulge on the ground

On the approach to Meneghetti – via its pin-straight, tree-lined drive – you might momentarily imagine that you’ve landed in Tuscany. Manicured vines radiate outwards amid bushy patches of gnarled olive trees. Rigid cypresses flank stone farmhouse buildings with terracotta roofs. But though the Italian border is less than a two-hour drive away, this is firmly Croatia. Here Malvasia Istriana grapes dominate in a range of styles – from zesty and floral to oak-aged and honeyed – while red grape Teran reaches tannic, inky depths.

Meneghetti was designed to celebrate the region’s long wine history. Vineyards encircle the estate and, by the pool, rows of ripening grapes are in view when you relax with a good book. Likewise, you’ll see them from the grounds of the private villas, which exude a rustic but sophisticated Provençal-style mood. Elsewhere, green vines creep across the stone exterior of farm-style buildings, and wind over pergolas.

Of course, the proof is in the pudding, and there is ample opportunity to drink the fruits of the vineyard too. Meneghetti’s own wines, born from the stone- and iron-rich terra rossa soils, are showcased in the design-forward cellars. Book in for a vertical tasting, sampling reds from 2009 onwards, or take things more relaxed, sipping golden-hued Malvasia with a charcuterie board on the terrace. Do try the olive oil, too, which has won plaudits from Flos Olei, one of the most respected expert olive oil guides.

Food is another highlight. Daytime relaxed affairs unfold at Oliveto, where sea bass ceviche and burrata with prosciutto are plated up under umbrellas overlooking the vines. Come evening, a refined tasting menu takes centre stage at the main restaurant, as diners parade through the likes of ravioli with black truffle; crispy egg with wild asparagus and caviar; braised beef cheek with polenta. All washed down, of course, with a considered wine list that features not only an excellent back catalogue of Meneghetti wines but a vast range of fine European bottlings. Take your pick from Château Lafite Rothschild 1990, or a red from neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Explore beyond

From its ancient Greek winemaking roots – via the Yugoslavian era, which largely quashed quality – Istria has newly emerged to be one of the Mediterranean’s most exciting vinous pockets, particularly for white wines. And the visitor experience is growing in reputation too. Between a half-hour and hour’s drive north of the hotel, a glut of options awaits for a day of tastings.

At Kozlović Winery, founded in 1904, indigenous varietals such as Malvasia Istriana, Teran and Momjan Muscat rule, with tastings held alfresco on warm days. Further south at Matošević, old Malvasia vines perched on hilltops above the sea provide a different profile. Or try long-established Kabola Winery, an organic producer running the gamut from sparklings to sweet wines.

Beyond the grape, take time to enjoy Istria’s other pleasures too. To the south in Pula, a remarkable Roman-era amphitheatre towers above the coast. Inland, deep caves welcome cool, adventurous exploring. And in opulent Opatija, regal Habsburg villas line the waterfront, a scene so photogenic it’ll have you instantly contemplating a return visit to Croatia.

For more information, visit the Meneghetti Wine Hotel website.

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The industrial port city of Pula, founded by the Romans, sits on Istria’s southern tip, while the cheerful seaside resorts of Rovinj and Poreč lie on the west coast. Inland you’ll find undulating hills supporting vineyards, olive groves and oak forests (concealing pungent truffles), overlooked by medieval-walled hill-towns such as Motovun and Grožnjan.

Culturally, the Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Austro-Hungarians have all left their marks here. Much of Istria came under Venice from the 13th century till 1798, and the Italian influence is apparent in the centuries-old fortifications, churches and loggias, in the local cuisine (lots of pasta, gnocchi and risotto dishes, plus fresh Adriatic seafood) and the dialect (Italian is the second language here). Tourism developed under Yugoslavia in the 20th century, when modern resorts were built along the coast. Since then niche markets have flourished: cycling, hiking and agrotourism inland, and sailing, sea-kayaking and scuba-diving on the Adriatic.

Winemaking here dates from Roman times – hordes of amphorae have been found on the sea bed. Red Teran and white Malvasia prevail, and both are very versatile. The Romans probably brought Teran here, while Istrian Malvasia is said to have arrived from Monemvasia in Greece aboard Venetian ships some 600 years ago. And there’s Muscat too. There are two main types of soil: red soil, containing a lot of iron, which tends to produce fruity wine; and white soil, which gives forth aromatic wine with notable minerality. Many wineries are organic and the grapes hand-picked. All those listed here are open for tasting by appointment.

Pula

Pula‘s skyline is dominated by an impressive Roman amphitheatre, while the site of the Forum is now the main square, overlooked by the proud Temple of Augustus. Roman relics are displayed in the Archaeological Museum, reopening in summer 2023 following renovation. Each morning, Pula’s covered market puts on a show of fresh fruit and vegetables and Adriatic seafood displayed on crushed ice. Come sunset, the industrial port zone lights up, as eight giant cranes are illuminated by multicoloured lighting.

On the edge of town, sisters Katarina and Ana run the welcoming Benazić winery with a cellar carved out of the rocks below the family house, and a slick tasting room of polished concrete. The standard tasting offers six wines and a platter with carefully prepared snacks – the stand out wine is the aromatic Katarina Malvazija Istarska 2020, awarded a Silver medal at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2022.

Rovinj

For many people, Rovinj is Istria’s loveliest seaside town. Built around a sheltered fishing harbour and overlooked by a hilltop church with an elegant bell tower, you can clearly see Venetian influence in Rovinj’s pastel-coloured facades. With two Michelin-star restaurants and a handful of big modern 5-star waterside hotels (one a member of Design Hotels), Rovinj is Croatia’s second most luxurious destination after Dubrovnik. It lies 36km northwest of Pula.

You’ll find two wineries open for tasting in a residential neighbourhood of Rovinj. Dobravac, where you should try the Sonata Riserva 2020 and orange Simfonija, both from Malvasia; and Vivoda, best known for its fruity St Euphemia 2018, made from Malvasia and aged 16 months in oak, which won a Gold at DWWA 2022.

On a carefully-cultivated hillside southeast of town, Stancija Collis produces good Malvasia and Teran, as well as award-winning olive oil. The winery also keeps donkeys and sells donkey milk.

Motovun

In inland Istria, 68km north of Pula, the medieval-walled hilltown of Motovun is central Istria’s most popular destination. From the fortifications, you have spectacular views over the Mirna Valley, with its lush vineyards, and oak forests loved by truffle hunters. Motovun is exposed to two climates, Mediterranean and Continental – in summer temperatures vary from 40°C during the day to 15°C at night. Teran does especially well here, and Motovun Malvasia has a herbal flavour.

In Motovun, Klaudio Tomaz, a former butcher and keen game hunter, heads the Tomaz winery. His best seller, Malvazija Avangarde, is an easy summery wine. His powerful ruby red Barbarossa Teran 2019, aged 18 months in oak, won a Gold at DWWA 2022. In summer 2023, Tomaz will open a stylish new winery, built from concrete, stone and oxidised metal, with a tasting room overlooking the vineyards.

Below Motovun, in the village of Brkač, at the Fakin winery Marko Fakin grows Malvasia down in the valley, where it is warm and damp, and Teran up on the sun-drenched hill of San Tommaso. His vibrant fruity Fakin Teran 2021, aged six months in oak, also won a Gold at DWWA 2022.

In the village of Kaldir, 5km southeast of Motovun, Benvenuti is run by brothers Albert and Nikola. Taste their superb Teran Livio Benvenuti 2019, and their sweet San Salvatore Muškat 2017, awarded a Platinum medal at DWWA 2022.

Buje & Momjan

Lying close to the Slovenian border, hilltop Buje has a medieval-walled old town with a 16th-century Baroque church on the main square. Amid lush green undulating hills, 6km northeast of Buje, tiny Momjan is famed for Muškat Momjanski, declared a protected label of origin by the EU in 2021 – just five wineries, within a 5km radius of the village, produce this sweet dessert wine. Malvasia and Teran do well here too.

In Momjan, family-run Prelac can truly claim to be a garage winery – in the tasting room, a former vehicle inspection pit has been concealed by an oxidised metal cover. Be sure to try the award-winning Momjan Muškat 2022, and also look out for the quirky Malvazija Under the Sea, aged in bottles at a depth of 20m for one year in the Kvarner Gulf.

Approached up a driveway lined by cypresses and olive trees, Marino Markežić’s Kabola winery occupies an old stone farmhouse. You might recognise it as a location for the 2021 film, Hitman’s Wife’s Bodyguard. Kabola’s top seller is its light and fruity Istrian Malvasia. Also, try the full-bodied golden Malvazija Amfora – inspired by a visit to Georgia in 2000, Markažić started making wines in big clay amphorae.

Hidden in a cool damp valley, with a stream and natural springs below Momjan, the slick contemporary Kozlović winery, designed by Fabrika architects from Pula, is a world unto its own. The valley produces a delightful fresh Malvasia, while the hot, dry, white-soil vineyard near Buje produces Kozlović Santa Lucia Malvazija 2017, which is aged in big 5,000-litre wooden barrels for 12 months, and was awarded a Platinum medal at DWWA 2022.

Bale

On the road from Pula to Rovinj, surrounded by flat fertile land supporting olive groves, Bale has a sleepy old town with cobbled alleys leading to the 16th-century Soardo-Bembo Castle.

Lying 8km southwest of Bale, Meneghetti is a luxurious wine resort, with rooms, residences and villas, set amid vineyards and olive groves. Its modern winery, designed by Fabrica architects, has a slick tasting room. The extensive portfolio includes sparkling wine and several conceptual labels, such as ‘White’ and ‘Red’. Inspired by memories of time gone by, when the two colours were the only way people differentiated wines, Miroslav Plišo tasked himself with producing the best white and the best red possible. The results are impressive. The fruity mineral-rich Meneghetti White 2021 combines Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, while the powerful Meneghetti Red 2018 uses Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Both are aged in oak.

My perfect weekend in Rovinj

My favourite base in Istria, Rovinj offers a choice of classy waterside hotels. Of these, I’d suggest the newest, the Grand Park Hotel, enjoying magnificent views of the old town across the bay, plus contemporary design, gourmet dining and a rooftop spa.

Friday

Having booked in at the hotel, stroll along the seafront promenade to Rovinj’s lovely old town. Walk around the pretty fishing harbour, rimmed by pastel-coloured houses, hosting seafood restaurants and ice cream parlours, then continue around the peninsula. Originally a tiny island, Rovinj was connected to the mainland coast in 1763, when the sea channel was filled in.

Evening

From the harbour, take an early-evening ride in a traditional flat-bottom batana rowing boat, lit by a fishing lantern. Then return to the hotel for a spectacular dinner at Cap Aureo.

Saturday

Morning

Start with breakfast on the hotel’s Laurel & Berry terrace – the eggs Florentine are divine. Walk over to the old town and up to the hilltop Church of St Euphemia, to climb the bell tower for fantastic views. Then head east of the centre, to visit two wineries, Dobravac and Vivoda. Returning to town, near the port, take a look at the colourful open-air market. Have lunch at waterside Puntulina – I recommend sea bream carpaccio followed by ravioli with truffles

Afternoon

Cycle (the hotel has bikes) south along the coast, through the parkland of Zlatni Rt peninsula, then inland to Stancija Collis, which makes its own wine and olive oil. On the way back, stop for a swim at a pebble cove shaded by pine trees on Zlatni Rt.

Evening

Enjoy Maistra’s Kozlović Dinner and Wine Tasting package, which includes transfer from the Grand Park Hotel to Momjan, for a tour of the Kozlović winery with tasting, followed by a private dinner on the winery rooftop with wine pairing.

Sunday

Morning

After breakfast, drive to Paladini, near Buzet, for truffle hunting in the Mirna Valley with Karlić Tartufi. You’ll be walking through oak forests with dogs, after which you’ll have an optional truffle cooking demonstration and a light lunch. If you forgo lunch, head up to hilltop Motovun to eat at Konoba Fakin.

Afternoon

Depending how much time you have, visit the Tomaz and Fakin wineries (both open Sundays) below Motovun. Depart via Pula airport.

Your Istria address book

Restaurants

Cap Aureo, Rovinj

Reserve in advance to experience Jeffrey Vella’s six-course degustation menu with wine pairing. Expect a sensuous journey, full of surprises, with treats including artichokes, truffles, turbot and lamb.

Puntulina, Rovinj

This waterside restaurant, on the rocks on Rovinj’s old town peninsula, specialises in fresh fish (including raw options, such as carpaccio) and homemade Istrian pasta dishes.

Kantinon, Rovinj

Overlooking the fishing harbour, this informal eatery does typical Istrian fare – try the crni rižot (black risotto made from cuttlefish ink) with a carafe of house wine, white Malvazija from Vivoda.

Fakin, Motovun

In Motovun’s old town, Fakin’s terrace affords sweeping views over the Mirna Valley. Come here for creative dishes based on local seasonal produce, such as tagliatelle with wild asparagus and goat’s cheese, plus Fakin’s own wines.

Konoba Rino, Momjan

Owned by the Prelac winemaking family, Rino stays busy all year, serving authentic homemade dishes, such as fritaja (omelette) with black truffles, and apple strudel paired with a glass of Momjan Muscat.

La Parenzana, Buje

Much-loved by touring cyclists and foodies, steaks and fish are cooked over an open fire, while the kitchen prepares gnocchi with venison at this rustic eatery.

Accommodation

Grand Park Hotel, Rovinj

A smart 5-star hotel with lovely views of Rovinj’s old town across the bay, with contemporary design and a vast rooftop spa.

Grand Hotel Brioni, Pula

By the sea on Verudela peninsula, 5km from the centre of Pula, this big modern 5-star hotel reopened after renovation in 2022.

Meneghetti, Bale

A sprawling complex of luxurious rooms, suites, residences and villas, with two restaurants, a spa and an outdoor pool, set amid beautifully curated gardens and vineyards.

La Parenzana, Buje

This renovated stone farmhouse offers comfortable rooms and a restaurant with outdoor tables on a terrace with wisteria and lavender.

Hotel Kaštel, Motovun

In a 17th-century building on Motovun’s main square, Kaštel has 33 rooms and a café-restaurant with tables shaded by towering chestnut trees.

Hotel Parentium Plava Laguna, Poreč

A big modern 4-star hotel, with outdoor pools and a spa, set amid pine trees on the coast, 5km from Poreč old town.

Wine shops and bars

You’ll want to do your wine shopping direct at the wineries you visit.

Caffe Bar XL, Rovinj

A fine place for a sunset aperitif, with gorgeous views, next to Rovinj’s hilltop church.

Café Cvajner, Pula

On the Forum Square, Cvajner has to be Pula’s coolest spot for coffee or a glass of wine.

Things to do

See the Arena (Roman amphitheatre) in Pula. Originally built to host gladiator fights, it now stages open-air summer concerts and the annual Pula Film Festival. Northeast of Pula, visit Brijuni National Park (accessed by boat from Fažana), an archipelago of green islets, where former President of Yugoslavia Tito kept a summer villa.

Visit the Unesco-listed Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč, adorned with glittering golden Byzantine mosaics

In the Mirna Valley, near Buzet, go truffle hunting with Karlić Tartufi.

Also in inland Istria, cycle along the Parenzana, a former railway line running from Poreč to Trieste, which now connects several wine routes.

How to get there

Fly to Pula, served by flights from various airports in the UK.

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Croatia’s Adriatic coast does not shy away from its beauty. Its homes are delightfully Mediterranean with their wind-polished stony walls and red-tiled roofs which vibrate with the summer sun.

While dishes from the blue-green waters of this sea are excellent, the fact that the islands in these waters are wine destinations in their own right is often overlooked.

These are islands that have been inhabited for thousands of years. Various waves of civilisation have come to pass – from the Greeks to the Romans, the Austro-Hungarian crown, two World Wars and ‘Communism lite’. For thirty years the Croatian republic has been a member of the European Union, the Eurozone and Schengen. Despite all the diverse history, the connective tissue has always been the wine.

Since Croatia declared independence in the 1990s, there’s been steady investment in private wineries at the cost of the old collective cooperatives which have nearly all collapsed. There’s also been consolidation around the main grape varieties of Plavac Mali along with a splash of Tribidrag (Croatian Zinfandel) for the reds, and Pošip, Prč, Bogdanuša and Vugava for the whites, depending upon the island.

The evolution of the wine industry has readily kept pace with the rise in visitors and the islands of Dalmatia now make for an excellent destination for any wine lover.

Hvar

A destination within a destination, the island of Hvar has been the hottest point of travel for some time within both Dalmatia and also Croatia as a whole. Its slim profile seems small at first glance, but the fact that it stretches for 100km east to west and features a mountain ridge reaching 626m at Sveti Nikola peak makes the island a hulking bastion of stony slopes and natural harbours.

Winemaking is exceedingly historic here. So much so that the Stari Grad Plain, containing the ruins of old Roman villas as well as winemaking sites, was established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. This is also where winery owners have their ‘cooler’ sites, especially for white wines made from Pošip, Prč and Bogdanuša.

The main wine growing area, however, is on the south side of the island, which is home to epic vineyards of Plavac Mali grapes splashing up the slopes while at the same time plunging into the waters of the Adriatic below. The main winery in this area is well-established Zlatan Otok founded by Zlatan Plenković.

Luviji winery is located just outside Hvar Town. Further towards the middle of the island is the main concentration of wineries with Vina Tomić seeing a wealth of visitors to the village of Jelsa. Also not to be missed in Jelsa is the new winery of Vina Carić which also has a tavern in neighbouring Vrboska.

Korčula

While you can choose whether to buy into the claim of Korčula Town being Marco Polo’s birthplace, the island of Korčula is a fine destination regardless. The massive walls and towers of the old town provide a stunning view when arriving by boat, and the streets have been laid out in a fascinating ‘leaf’ pattern to allow for better air circulation.

Wineries here are all based towards the middle of the island and, as the post-World War II Yugoslavian authorities dubbed this a white-producing region, the white grape Pošip still reigns supreme, although several producers are working with Grk, believed to be an older grape.

Cooperative Pošip PZ Čara has not only managed to stay afloat in the conversion to the free market but also to make stellar wines from Pošip. Krajančić winery also makes Pošip wines of note and is located in the village of Zavalatica. Toreta in the central village of Smokvica makes great white wines as well as dabbling in a bit of red.

Elaphiti – Šipan

The Elaphiti are a series of three small islands that sit like a cluster of paint daubs running northwards from the main port of Dubrovnik. Each has its own attraction – be it the beach, hiking or small chapels – but it’s the largest island, Šipan, which has a more serious wine presence.

The wineries of Daničić and Goravica are both based in Suđurađ and are the only two wineries on Šipan. Both work with a mixture of local and foreign varieties and Mato, the owner of Goravica, also produces carob and olive oil.

Brač

Approaching by sea, the island of Brač’s gleaming white heights conceal its centre – a longstanding source of excellent marble that the quarries, both old and new, will attest to.

It’s a gorgeous island to travel across but most people stay along the more populated areas of the coast and the triangular, sandy beach of Zlatni Rat (often referred to as the Golden Horn) is a tremendous destination in the summer months.

Despite its size and favourable growing conditions due to altitude, there aren’t very many wineries on the island. Those of Senjković and Baković produce great wines from Plavac Mali. But, undeniably, the main draw is Stina which is based on Bol’s waterfront (right next to the famous beach) and took over the ailing Agricultural Cooperative of Bol in 2009. Since then, the winery has been producing some of the top Plavac Mali, Pošip and even Tribidrag wines in all of Dalmatia and as has a fine visitors’ centre.

Vis

Far-flung and remote despite being only 55km from the mainland, Vis feels like a world far removed. This is largely by design as it was a military base closed to outsiders until 1991 and while it sees plenty of visitors in the summer months, is a slightly more relaxed island of Dalmatia.

Wine production is rather recent due to the island being closed off for so long and it’s taken a long time to attract permanent residents who weren’t originally from the island. The main production is of red and rosé wines based on Plavac Mali and white wines from Vugava (or Bugava), thought to be potentially native to the island.

The main producer of note for some time was Lipanović, based in the old submarine bunker making for very photogenic tastings, but Senjanović and Vislander have since added to the mix.

My perfect day in the Dalmatian Islands

Given the development of services over the last few decades, a trip to any of the islands in Dalmatia is sure to be a fine experience. However, when you consider the fuller range of tourist services open for more of the year, my recommendation is Hvar, which happens to be the only island with its own wine association: Hvar Otok Vina (Hvar Island of Wine).

You will need a car no matter where you go and one of the best places to be based is in Hvar Town. It’s a compact, historical town that’s fully walkable on foot and has plenty of hotels, bars and restaurants as well as one of the two main ferry ports of the island (the other one being in Stari Grad).

In terms of accommodation, there are hotels of all sizes, styles and prices but my recommendation is the Hotel Villa Nora which is on the old cobblestone streets of the hill leading up to the fort.

Morning

Start the day with the excellent homemade breakfast served on the patio of Hotel Villa Nora, including the famous dried figs from the island.

From the centre of Hvar, either walk or drive up to the 16th-century Fortica to take in the view of the harbour in the morning light. From there, ramble down for a visit and tasting at Luviji just on the outskirts of the old town.

Afternoon

Take a slow trip out to Vrboska and Jelsa across the Stari Grad Plain, taking in the historical Roman sites which are marked via signage.

Have lunch at Me & Mrs Jones, a great restaurant right on the water serving well-crafted local dishes with modern touches and an excellent wine list.

Make plans for an afternoon visit to the new winery of Vina Carić and/or Vina Tomić which both produce excellent examples of modern Hvar wines using native grapes. Carić also offers a tasting option paired with chocolates from artisan shop Gamulin, which is located on the waterfront of Jelsa.

Later you can pay a visit to the viticulture museum in Pitve (see below). Then take the one-lane Pitve tunnel out to the south side of the island to see the tremendously sloped vineyards. Opt for a sunset stroll in Stari Grad or head back to Hvar Town on the new road (be advised that while new, this is a road that just barely clings to the slopes).

Evening

Hvar doesn’t lack restaurant offerings and in Jelsa, Vrboska and Stari Grad you’ll find fine food options, especially at the traditional konoba (tavern) restaurants, although many can be closed in the off-season – a concept that is rapidly changing as more people visit the island year-round.

A very solid recommendation for evening dining is Macondo in Hvar Town. While known for its seafood, it serves all kinds of dishes, offered up in classic style along with a lengthy list of local wines.

Your Dalmatian Islands address book

Restaurants

Konoba Kopačina

Donji Humac, Brač

+385 21 647 707

Located in the centre of Brač, the restaurant offers a mix of Dalmatian dishes with pleasant outdoor seating when weather permits.

Konoba Maha

Žrnovo, Korčula

+385 91 605 1207

Maha offers a chance to get out of the main tourist spots in Korčula Town. Experience the mix of dishes showcasing seafood, pasta, meat and more, all done Korčula style. Of special note is the peka, a dish of meat, potatoes and herbs baked on coals under a lidded bell.

Konoba Nikola

Vrboska, Hvar

+385 98 192 7120

Located on the canal of this village that locals half-jokingly call ‘little Venice’, this tavern serves traditional island dishes along with a healthy selection of local wines, including an emphasis on those of the owner.

Konoba Tauris

Šipanska Luka, Šipan

+385 98 619 013

While there aren’t too many options on the small island of Šipan, thankfully there’s Tauris which has outstanding seafood and the ability to grill it to perfection. Make sure to call ahead as it is generally closed half the year and will only open for special bookings in the off-season.

Macondo

Hvar Town, Hvar

+385 21 742 850

Fine seafood and other traditional Dalmatian fares. Macondo has a solid list of local wines and is right in the centre of the old town.

Me & Mrs Jones

Jelsa, Hvar

+385 21 761 882

Situated on the harbour, the view would be reason enough to go, but the friendly atmosphere of the owner and host, Josipa, as well as the fine craft of the dishes, gives you a reason to never leave. The wine list is compact but well chosen and importantly, it’s one of the few restaurants open nearly the entire year.

Restoran Pojoda

Vis Town, Vis

+385 21 711 575

Known for its fresh-off-the-boat seafood offerings grilled with expertise. It’s a more traditional setting for the coast, but the outdoor seating is a fine option in the warm months.

Taverna Riva

Bol, Brač

+385 21 635 236

Located right on the waterfront of this port village of the island, the evening view is stupendous. Dishes are a mix fresh seafood as well as plenty of grilled meats, all with the option of the local island wines for pairing.

Accommodation

Hotel Bozica

Suđurađ, Šipan

+385 20 325 400

Offering the tranquil setting of Šipan, this hotel looks down upon the harbour of the main village as the local fishermen of the island come in with their daily catches. A fine option for those looking for a calm, restful getaway.

Maslina Resort

Stari Grad, Hvar

+385 21 888 700

If looking for a higher-end option, this hotel in Stari Grad is a fine choice. Rooms are classy and finely appointed and the hotel is situated close to the yacht harbour.

Villa Nora Hotel

Hvar Town, Hvar

+385 92 217 7466

Set in a 14th-century palace, the rooms are spacious and modern without being over polished and the family who runs it is incredibly hospitable and serve an outstanding breakfast.

Wine shops

Za Pod Zub

Stari Grad, Hvar

+385 95 819 7792

A fine collection of local wines as well as other products, set in the heart of the old cobblestone streets of Stari Grad.

Vijola Hvar

Hvar Town, Hvar

+385 95 399 8900

A very thorough selection of all the local wines as well as a great many from Dalmatia at large and, most importantly, at proper retail prices.

Things to do

Blaca Hermitage

Brač

A stunning 16th-century monastery that was built into a cliff which can be fully visited and has its own onsite museum.

The Viticulture Collection

Pitve, Hvar

This is the first public wine museum in all of Croatia which officially opened in February 2023. It features various historical exhibits and has an explanation of their terroirs on the island. There are also planned activities for tastings as well as the eventual addition of WSET classes.

Stari Grad Plain

Hvar

Stretching between the villages of Stari Grad, Vrboska, and Jelsa, this historic, UNESCO World Heritage Site may initially not seem like much, but hidden within its stacked stone walls are two thousand years of history. If staying in Stari Grad, first make a stop at the historic house of Tvrdalj Petra Hektorovića.

Moreška

Korčula

In addition to Medieval traditions and tournaments in Korčula, the island also hosts the moreška. This is a traditional sword dance and accompanying drama from the 12th and 13th centuries which needs to be experienced in person.

How to get there

The starting point for any trip to the Dalmatian islands is to fly into either Split or Dubrovnik airports, which form the northern and southern gateways to Dalmatia, respectively.

While the islands are very well served by various ferry lines, the majority of regular routes run when there’s a peak of visitors in the summer. The main operator for all islands, throughout the year, is the state company of Jadrolinija, which has offices anywhere you find water where a boat can stop.

Beyond that, each island has something of its own peculiarities in terms of connections. The Elaphiti Islands have a daily, regular passenger ferry throughout the year.

The islands of Hvar and Korčula are served by both passenger and car ferries that run the Split-Dubrovnik route. Korčula can also be reached via a very short, 4km ferry hop from Orebić if you drive up the Pelješac peninsula from Dubrovnik.

Brač and Vis are destinations unto themselves with car ferries running throughout the year. You need your own vehicle on these islands.

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Caroline Gilby MW, Isa Bal MS and Darrel Joseph tasted 151 wines, with 8 Outstanding and 67 Highly recommended.

Adriatic whites panel tasting scores

151 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 67

Recommended 72

Commended 4

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release white wines from Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro or Bosnia-Herzegovina, single varietals or blends using any grapes, but preferably including a large proportion of indigenous varieties

The eastern shore of the Adriatic sea is better known for its tourism than for wine, but results from this tasting showed that it’s home to many wines to spark wine lovers’ interest. Croatia, with some 1,800km of Adriatic coastline, submitted most wines, but there was also a good showing from Slovenia (47km of coast) and a handful from Bosnia & Herzegovina (just 20km of seashore).

This was an impressive, and often exciting, two-day tasting, with very few poor wines. As Isa Bal MS pointed out: ‘I found the quality to be of a very high standard,’ highlighting, ‘some excellent Malvasia from Croatia and some very well-made, pyrazine-free examples of Sauvignon Blanc from Slovenia.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top wines from the Adriatic whites panel tasting

Local grapes dominated the entries and provided many of the top-scoring wines. Malvasia Istriana (Malvazija Istarska is the local spelling) was the superstar, showing its potential in several styles. It has gone from ordinary workhorse to something quite special in the last two decades. It makes great bright, fruity, appealing wines when vinified cool in steel, though even these simpler versions can keep remarkably well. Among the 2021 wines, the main reservation was that, though quality was generally very good, the wines were all quite similar.

Malvasia is also capable of greatness in a whole range of styles, from classic oak fermentation to skin contact, orange and natural wines aged in other vessels such as clay amphora, larger casks and even acacia wood. Bal noted ‘some very competent winemaking using skin contact and natural yeast’.

Other local grapes also showed well, not least the incredibly rare Grk – grown on a handful of hectares on the island of Korčula – as did Korčula’s other special white grape, Pošip. There’s real intensity and great texture, underscored by a sea-salt mineral freshness in these unique local grapes. Darrel Joseph noted that ‘most of these wines are gorgeous exotica, treasures of where they are so at home’.

See all 151 wines from the Adriatic whites panel tasting

There were only a few examples submitted to the tasting of the flagship Rebula grape (Ribolla Gialla) from western Slovenia – though these did show its quality and versatility.

Bosnia & Herzegovina’s flagship Zilavka was praised by Joseph: ‘Zilavka has really been coming into its own in recent years,’ he said. ‘The variety’s wonderful Mediterranean herb and citrus characteristics and its gently elegant acidity shine through in the wines with such focus, clarity and freshness. Even better, Zilavka’s diversity is so enticing. It’s not just about young and fresh steel-aged wines; it does so well also as barrel-matured and – joyously – even as a natural, amber-style wine with age. Such exciting potential!’

Yet it’s not just about local grapes here, and you’ll find several excellent examples of international varieties that can also showcase the terroir. Pinot Gris was particularly strong, with several high-scoring wines showing an intensity and balance that wouldn’t be out of place in Alsace or Collio. There were also some excellent Chardonnays, and Sauvignons in a unique regional style between the aromatic fruitiness of New World and the mineral intensity of the Loire.

All in all, this tasting was evidence of a dynamic, if less well-known part of the wine world that is well worth exploring.

Top scoring Adriatic whites

The judges

Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded wine writer, author and speaker, with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, central & eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is joint DWWA Regional Chair for North, Central & Eastern Europe.

Isa Bal MS is a consultant Master Sommelier. Winner of the prestigious Sommelier Award 2022 from Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland, he was also winner of the Best Sommelier of Europe competition in 2008, and was head sommelier for The Fat Duck Group for more than 12 years.

Darrel Joseph has been writing about the wines of central and eastern Europe since 1995, now also covering Croatia, Serbia and all other Balkan wine countries. He is a regular wine judge, educator and speaker, and is joint DWWA Regional Chair for North, Central & Eastern Europe.

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Once a proud independent republic (1358-1808), Dubrovnik’s wealth was based on shipping and its freedom on diplomacy. Enclosed within sturdy medieval walls, the pedestrian-only old town (now a Unesco World Heritage site), is a huddle of paved alleys, Baroque churches, cloistered courtyards and noble palazzi, many hosting cafes and restaurants at ground level.

Beyond its walls lie the lands that once supplied the prosperous city-state with olive oil and wine. While here for a weekend, you might visit the two nearest wine regions, Konavle (home to the white Malvasija Dubrovačka – not to be confused with Malvazija Istarska) and Pelješac (renowned for producing some of Croatia’s best reds, from the indigenous Plavac Mali grape).

Friday

The flight from the UK to Dubrovnik takes around 3 hours, depending where you fly from. Upon arrival, head directly for the stylish Hotel Excelsior (double B&B from €279). Built into the hillside above the coast, it is a grand villa dating from 1913, with sublime views over the water to Dubrovnik’s medieval fortifications. Renovated in 2017, it offers contemporary interiors with plenty of extras – a lush spa with an indoor pool, a bathing area with steps down to the sea, three restaurants and two bars. And unlike most Dubrovnik hotels, it stays open all year.

Evening

From the Excelsior, it’s just a 5-minute walk to Ploče Gate, one of two monumental entrances to the old town. Stroll down the marble-paved Stradun street, to Proto, founded in 1886 and still widely regarded as Dubrovnik’s best fish restaurant (Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson ate here in 1936). Opt for the six-course degustation menu (750kn/ €100), with wine-pairing (265kn/€35) – you’ll be treated to refined classics made from the freshest Adriatic seafood, such as fish tartare, fettuccine pasta with scampi and truffles and grilled fish fillet. During the meal, the sommelier will introduce you to fresh and fruity white Malvasija Dubrovačka (with fragrances of orange blossom), robust red Plavac Mali (with hints of pine and carob) and Prošek (a sweet dessert wine, made from grapes that have been left to dry before being pressed).

Close the evening with fizz and maybe some live jazz at Fratellos Prosecco Bar, on a raised terrace above the sea, just outside the old town. Although Croatia is not known for sparkling wine, the Plešivica region (southwest of Zagreb) has started making some rather successful spumantes. So take the opportunity to skip the Italian Prosecco, and try instead a Croatian sparkling wine from the award-winning Jagunić winery.

Saturday

Morning

Begin the day with breakfast on the Excelsior’s sunny waterside terrace – fresh fruit, Eggs Benedict and oven-warm croissants. Then set out to explore Dubrovnik. For first-time visitors, the must-do experience has to be walking a full circuit of the city walls – high up in the ramparts, you have magnificent views over the terracotta rooftops of the old town and out to sea. Although the walls date from the 13th century, they were later reinforced with robust towers and bastions, and armed with cannons.

Afterwards, take a look in the 15th-century Rector’s Palace, home to the Cultural History Museum, to see how local nobility once lived amid period antiques, gilt-framed family portraits and even sedan chairs. Historic documents in the city archive show that they were enjoying Malvasija Dubrovačka as early as 1383 – a wine ‘to be appreciated rather than devoured’. It was also considered medicinal.

Afternoon

This afternoon there are two options, depending on how active you feel. If you want a few hours relaxing, have lunch at Trattoria Carmen in a peaceful side alley in the old town. The menu changes daily, depending on what the owner-chef finds at the morning market, but look out for their octopus specialities – irresistible octopus rissoles, or octopus salad (a Dalmatian summer classic) – and ask your waiter for advice on wine pairing. Then spend the afternoon back at the Excelsior either swimming and sunbathing by the sea or indulging in massage and beauty treatments at the spa.

Alternatively, you might drive down to Konavle, a fertile green valley, planted with vineyards and olive groves, and studded with elegant cypresses. This is the homeland of Malvasija Dubrovačka, a grape variety that was saved from extinction by local winemakers in the 1990s when there were less than half-a-dozen vines remaining. Now, thanks to careful nurturing, this local variety has been revived to some 92,000 vines.

Have lunch at Kameni Dvori, an old stone farmhouse where everything they serve is homemade. Choose a platter of pršut (cured ham, similar to Italian prosciutto), cheeses, smoked meats and olives, or something more substantial, and be sure to taste their Malvasija Dubrovačka. They also offer cooking classes, should you wish to try your hand in the old-fashioned kitchen.

Then head to the Crvik winery in nearby Komaji. In a modern tasting room overlooking vineyards, you can sample Crvik’s Tezoro (meaning ‘treasure’) made from Malvasija Dubrovačka, and their Blasius (named after Dubrovnik’s patron saint), an orange wine, made from the same grape, using the centuries-old maceration method. And don’t miss Crvik’s most esteemed wine, the red Vilin Ples (meaning ‘fairy dance’), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Plavac – the 2017 vintage won a Decanter World Wine Awards Gold Medal in 2021. Although Vilin Ples 2017 is sold out, you might purchase a bottle of Vilin Ples 2018 (150kn/€20).

Evening

If you opted for a relaxed afternoon, the time has come to dress for the evening and hop on the shuttle boat from Dubrovnik’s old port to Cavtat (journey time 45 min). Sailing down the coast, you’ll pass rocky cliffs and sheltered pebble coves. Upon arrival, walk around Cavtat’s harbour to Hotel Supetar (a heritage hotel, renovated in 2022) for wine tasting at the Wine Bar (17:00-23:00). Their Discover South Dalmatian Wines flight introduces white Malvasija Dubrovačka, white Pošip from Korčula, and robust red Dingač from Pelješac. Follow this with dinner at their restaurant (12:00-15:00 and 18:00-23:00) where the Konavle Highlights menu (750kn/€100) complete with wine pairing (300kn/€40) includes a delicious risotto with clams, samphire and sea urchin; pasta with wild hare; and stuffed quail. Return to Dubrovnik by boat, or taxi.

If you spent the afternoon out in Konavle, you might prefer to dine back in Dubrovnik. For something rather different, head for Azur in the old town. The owner-cook Darko Perojević (who is from Dubrovnik but spent several years in China) combines local ingredients with oriental aromas to create his own CroAsian fusion dishes, such as spicy salmon donburi and monkfish with black curry sauce. But what to drink with zesty seafood? ‘Azur’s house wine is a young white Graševina by Galić from Kutjevo in North Croatia’, said Darko, ‘I chose this because it’s very light and goes well with most of our dishes on a hot summer day’.

Sunday

Morning

After breakfast at the hotel, drive northwest up the coast to Ston (journey time 1hr). With its twin settlements, Ston and Mali Ston, connected by 14th-century walls, this is literally the gateway to Pelješac peninsular.

Head for the Miloš winery (website under construction) in Ponikve, near Ston. With organic vineyards on steep terraced slopes above the turquoise waters of Prapratno bay, the Miloš family specialises in the indigenous Plavac Mali grape.

‘We make a selection of natural wines from the Plavac Mali variety, and we age our reds in Slavonian oak barrels,’ said Ivan Miloš. ‘Our premium wine, Stagnum, is released for sale only after ten years of ageing.’ Be sure to sample their dry full-bodied Miloš Rosé, their standard red Miloš Plavac and their premium red Stagnum. If you’d like to buy a bottle to bring home, the Miloš Plavac 2018 is 90kn/€12, while the Stagnum 2012 is 460kn/€61.

Proceed to Mali Ston, where the Šare family offers boat tours of their oyster beds, and demonstrates how these prized molluscs are cultivated. Conditions in Mali Ston bay are optimal, as seawater and freshwater (from the nearby River Neretva) combine here. You’ll get to taste fresh oysters, pulled straight from the sea, served raw with a squeeze of lemon and a glass of Pošip white wine. Afterwards, have lunch at the Bota Šare – try another Dalmatian classic, black risotto, made from cuttlefish ink. The flavours are pungent enough to pair with a local red Plavac Mali.

Afternoon

Returning to Dubrovnik, you might like to nip into KAWA, a hip concept store near the Excelsior, to buy gifts to bring home. Besides quirky kitchenware and accessories by Croatian designers, they stock a selection of rare wines, including several names you’ll recognise. And if you can’t fit everything in your suitcase, never mind – you’re bound to be returning to Dubrovnik sometime soon.

Most wineries that are open for tours and tasting prefer you to contact them first to agree on an exact time for your visit. Having a car is recommended – the Hotel Exceslior can help arrange this, either with or without a driver.

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Where is it?

The Balkans or the Balkan Peninsula refers to the region that stretches from the Adriatic Sea to the Black Sea, with the Mediterranean and Aegean seas to the south. Its northern boundary is usually defined by the Danube and Sava rivers, and it’s named after the Balkan Mountains in central Bulgaria. The name was first used in the early 19th century, and it remains somewhat controversial so some of the countries here prefer ‘southeast Europe’.

The geopolitical Balkan region is usually considered to comprise Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovenia and Turkey. The self-declared republic of Kosovo should also be mentioned, now recognised as a country by 117 other nations.

The region is a fascinating meeting place of cultures, with Orthodox, Catholic and Islamic influences overlapping. It’s also a region with amazing history, important archaeological sites and fantastic wildlife.

What is its wine history?

Wine has been present in the region for a very long time and it may even be where wine first arrived in Europe. There are traces of harvesting grapes as early as Neolithic times (dated to between 6000-5650 BC / BCE), so it’s not hard to make the leap to wine, even though evidence of winemaking has not yet been uncovered.

Various cultures across the region including the Varna, Vinča and Cucuteni-Trypillian all seemed to grow grapes. The earliest specific wine evidence may date to Thracian times according to written records from Greek and Egyptian poets and historians.

It appears wine was more than just a drink, and had an important ceremonial role, as shown by the ornate Thracian drinking vessels that have been uncovered in Bulgaria. This connection with wine is so strong that Romania, Serbia and Bulgaria all claim to be the birthplace of the mythical wine god Dionysus in ancient Thrace.

Evidence of highly-regarded winemaking continued into the Roman period and beyond. Later, much of this region came under rule by the Ottoman Empire, when winemaking was largely suppressed, but survived in monasteries for Christian rituals.

There was a new era towards the end of the 19th century when winemaking developed strongly across the region and many international grape varieties arrived. As in the rest of Europe, the arrival of the phylloxera louse caused widespread devastation in the late 19th century, and many local varieties were lost to cultivation.

What grapes does the region grow?

Depending on the exact definition, the Balkans may cover as much as 666,700km² making it bigger than the Iberian Peninsula. That means it is incredibly diverse and as a result, the region grows a wealth of indigenous, and often unique, varieties. Each country has its own particularly important local grapes, some of which are potential flagships.

Some of the most important include Kallmet, Shesh i Zi and Shesh i Bardhë in Albania while Mavrud, Rubin, various Melniks, Gamza and Dimiat lead the way in Bulgaria.

In Croatia, Graševina is the leading grape (and may have its homeland here), joined by Malvazija Istarska, Plavac Mali, Teran, Babić and Pošip to name but a few.

The inky dark Vranac or Vranec is the superstar in Montenegro and North Macedonia, but it also appears that Kratošija (aka Primitivo/Zinfandel) most likely originated here after all.

Romania has its unique Fetească Neagră, Fetească Albă and Fetească Regală plus Băbească Neagră, while Serbia has Prokupac, Grašac (a historic name for Graševina/Riesling Italico/Welschriesling being revived to rebuild its reputation) and recent arrivals on the scene like Probus and Morava.

Slovenia’s leading local white grape is Rebula, with Laški Rizling (aka Graševina/Welschriesling), Malvazija and Šipon (aka Furmint) important too; Refošk (aka Refosco) and Modra Frankinja lead the red front (the latter is the local name for Blaufränkisch which probably originated on today’s Slovenian territory).

Greece and Turkey have been widely covered elsewhere – but each has its own amazing diversity of unique grapes. It’s also fair to point out that international grapes have been present in most of the Balkans for over a century and can make incredibly good, global standard wines here (many winning Decanter World Wine Awards).

What’s the climate like?

The climate varies from Mediterranean to continental, and from cool alpine to very warm, with long sunshine hours. Mountains, rivers and seas moderate the climate, giving rise to a huge diversity of terroirs to grow grapes.

What are the styles of winemaking?

Winemaking has made enormous strides forward in recent decades, with the best wines now seriously impressive. Communism and socialism had an impact in the 20th century when there was widespread collectivisation of winemaking. But since independence, and especially over the last two decades, there has been a complete revolution, so modern winemaking with up-to-date equipment and know-how is pretty much universal.

Even more recently, winemakers have developed real confidence in the quality of their grapes and their land, so the best wines aren’t overwhelmed with high alcohol, extracted tannins and lots of oak, but offer balance and harmony allowing the grapes and the place to shine.

The region has also become a bit of a niche hotspot for the reinvention of more traditional approaches including orange/amber skin-contact styles, natural wines and pét-nat. Alternative vessels like clay amphorae, large neutral oak and even alternative woods like acacia, mulberry and ash are also finding a place.

Sparkling wines are increasingly good, most often made by the traditional method. White wines come in all styles from fresh, fruity and delicate, to complex, layered and long-lived. Rosé wines may be anything from almost red to trendy pale pink, depending on the grape. Reds range from refined and graceful to weighty and powerful, and there are even a few spots where sweet wines can be fantastic.

This is such a diverse region that a visit (or several) is the best way to get to know it, and you can be certain of a warm, hospitable welcome. One event to look out for in 2023 is the recently-launched Wine Vision by Open Balkan wine fair, which in 2022 brought together Serbia, North Macedonia and Albania to recognise their open border agreement, and to showcase the diversity and exciting quality of wines of this region.

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A man and woman carried out the ‘meticulously planned’ theft at the Atrio hotel and restaurant in western Spain back in October.

They made off with a bottle of 1806 Château D’Yquem and a large haul of Domaine de la Romanée Conti after breaking into Atrio’s famous cellar.

That sparked a nine-month international manhunt. Police in Spain teamed up with Interpol and Europol, plus authorities in Romania and the Netherlands, to track a pair of suspects down.

They eventually swooped on a 29-year-old Mexican woman and her Romanian-Dutch accomplice in Croatia this week.

Spain’s Policía Nacional said the couple visited the restaurant three times to scope it out before carrying out the theft.

The woman, described by El Pais as ‘a former beauty queen’, checked into Atrio Hotel using fake Swiss identity documents before the heist.

The couple dined in the restaurant, which has two Michelin stars, before taking a tour of the wine cellar.

Spanish police said the woman later distracted staff by asking for food to be prepared after the kitchen had closed, while her accomplice ransacked the cellar.

‘After using a previously purloined master key to gain access, he emerged with three large rucksacks – one on his back and two in each hand – which held the bottles he had stashed, and which were stuffed with hotel towels to protect the bottles,’ said Policía Nacional in a statement.

The couple scarpered at 5.30am the next day. Atria’s owners alerted the police, and the story hit headlines around the world.

Atria’s distraught co-owner and sommelier José Polo told Decanter he would buy the wine back from the robbers, especially the 1806 Château D’Yquem. ‘More than the bottles of wine, they robbed our dreams,’ said Polo.

The couple fled Spain a few days later, zigzagging across Europe to escape detection. However, they were finally tracked down on the Montenegro-Croatia border this week. Police reported that the man was the subject of two outstanding arrest warrants in Madrid.

‘Following numerous inquiries, in both Spain and other countries, officers managed to identify the two suspects, noting the high degree of professionalism, specialisation and perfect planning that had gone into the theft,’ said Policía Nacional.

The stolen wine has not been recovered and the investigation is ongoing.

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Across the Adriatic sea from Italy lies Croatia, with a plethora of indigenous grape varieties and a history of winemaking dating back to the ancient Greeks.

Yet the country’s wines remain largely an Adriatic secret, with compelling white varieties such as Pošip and Grk and the red Plavac Mali awaiting wider global exploration.

Darrel Joseph, newly announced DWWA Regional Chair for North, Central & Eastern Europe alongside Caroline Gilby MW, advises on this:

‘Always give the smaller wineries and regions – the low-volume producers with funky grape names – their chance to be discovered. In Croatia, for example, there can never be enough attention on all of the regions, but three that simply must be spotlighted are Dalmatia, Istria – home to the seductive white Malvasija Istarska and vivacious red Teran – and the continental regions of Slavonia and Danube.’

At the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 it was Coastal Croatia that caught the expert judges’ eye, with Dalmatian and Istrian wines among some of the highest-scoring wines across the entire competition.

Discover here a selection of Croatia’s top-scoring wines and indigenous varieties worth a try…

Coastal Croatia: stars of the Adriatic

South & mid-Dalmatia

Bire, Defora GRK 2018

97 Platinum

bire.hr

Persuasive and complex aromas of ripe yellow fruits, citrus, dried herbs, brioche and hints of sweet spices from oak. Serious wine, excellent concentration and well-judged oak. Characterful and delicious. Alcohol 13.5%

Zure, Pošip 2019

97 Platinum

zure.hr

Rich and charming nose of honey, lemon, ripe grapefruit, quince, toasted nuts and hints of spices. Waxy texture on the palate, very ripe and exotic with a long finish. Alc 13.5%

Rizman, Nonno Pošip 2019

93 Silver

rizman.com.hr

Elegant nose of orange peel, hazelnut and Mirabelle plums. Cheerful palate with a creamy, oily texture, warm oak notes and a long finish. Alc 13.5%

Crvik, Vilin Ples Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot-Plavac 2017

95 Gold

crvik-wine.com

Lovely developed nose with notes of pencil lead, cedar, leather and dark berries, gamey nuances. Assertive tannins are well balanced by a juicy fruit concentration. Quite lifted. Alc 13.5%

Vinolog, Éclat Plavac Mali 2013

95 Gold

vinolog.hr

Bright and attractive redcurrant and milk chocolate aromas over red berries, plums and figs with nuances of thyme. Smooth with fine-grained tannins, very refreshing. Alc 15%

Pavičić, Plavac Mali Barrique 2019

92 Silver

@pavicic_vina

Notes of dark chocolate, balsamic, tobacco and baked cherry. Complex, rich and spicy. Tannins are a little aggressive but will soften with time. Alc 15%

North Dalmatia

Degarra, Garageist Bili Degarra 2016

96 Gold

degarra.com

Very expressive and characterful, showing scents of red apple, tropical fruit, cream and peach yoghurt. Textured mouthfeel with a lovely balance of fruit and acidity. Alc 13%

Bora, Pošip 2019

95 Gold

vinabora.hr

Very aromatic nose, lovely aromas of apricot, white peach, fresh flowers and honey notes. Coats the mouth, with a soft and gentle palate and oily texture. Alc 13.9%

Testament, Tribidrag 2018

95 Gold

@testamentwinery

Traditional nose of Maraschino cherry, raisins, chocolate and lots of sweet oak spices. Chewy on the palate, powerful and rich with very fresh acidity. Alc 14.5%

Zupanović, Galjin Dvor Babić 2018

94 Silver

+385 22 578 266

Inviting nose of dried cherry, raspberry, sweet spice and coconut chocolate. Modern and glossy with some intense but refined tannins. Alc 14%

Istria

Cattunar, Collina Malvazija Istarska 2017

95 Gold

cattunar.hr

Has a very complex nose of spices, smoke and savoury notes of tarragon and rosemary, with a touch of bitter almond. Well-textured palate with a beautiful acidity balancing the alcohol. Alc 14.7%

Fakin, Malvazija Istarska 2020

95 Gold

fakinwines.com

Limpid nose with pristine aromas of pithy white lemon, pear and perfumed, delicate white flowers. Very pure on the palate, lively and refreshing, very juicy. Alc 13%

Ravalico, 1903 Malvazija Istarska 2018

92 Silver

f-f-ravalico.hr

Attractive jasmine and peach aromas. Elegant palate showing minerality, green and red apple and peach. Chewy, with a long finish. Alc 12%

Vina Laguna, Castello Festigia 2017

95 Gold

vinalaguna.hr

Lifted and fragrant nose of cherries, cassis, graphite, cedar wood, green bell pepper and hints of paprika. Harmonious palate. Classy, with plenty to interest and be enjoyed. Alc 13.5%

Benvenuti, San Salvatore Muškat 2015

97 Platinum

benvenutivina.com

Beautiful nose of lovely dried apricots, orange peel, rose water and sweet honey with nuances of dried berries. Fantastic intensity on the palate with a silky richness. Well layered and lusciously sweet. Alc 11%

Search all DWWA medal winners

DWWA 2022 results will be announced 7 June on Decanter.com

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Croatia wants to make dessert-style wine prošek a ‘traditional term’ under EU law, but Italian wine body Federvini said the move was unacceptable and too close to the Prosecco name.

A tussle at EU level is looming after the Croatian government’s formal application to register prošek was published in the Official Journal of the European Union on 22 September.

In response, Federvini said Italy has a 60-day window to oppose the move, which it described as ‘an assault on our culture’.

Micaela Pallini, Federvini’s president, said that EU recognition for the term prošek would be ‘highly misleading for international consumers’ and would penalise Italy’s Prosecco exporters, even if the similarity between the two is in the name rather than the wine style.

While Prosecco is a sparkling wine, Croatian ‘prošek’ is a sweet, dessert-style wine made from dried grapes, notably in the Dalmatia region.

It must be made from grapes that contain at least 150° Oe (Oechsle degrees) of sugar, according to the application published in the EU Journal.

Prošek may be red or white, and the ‘colour may range from dark yellow with shades of old gold to reddish with brown shades’, the Croatian government application states.

Prosecco’s DOCG council reiterated its opposition to the Croatia’s prošek proposal. ‘Today we must work as a team to protect our product and the name Prosecco, but also to avoid creating dangerous precedents,’ said Elvira Bortolomiol, president of Consortium Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore.

Italy’s agriculture minister, Stefano Patuanelli, has announced a task force to assess options following Croatia’s formal application to register ‘prošek’.

‘We are now part of the technical table set up by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, through which all the necessary counter measures will be put in place,’ said Bortolomiol.

A European Commission spokesperson could not be immediately reached for comment on the next steps in the process.

According to Federvini, the Prosecco market is worth €2bn per year, with exports accounting for 50% of this amount.

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Decanter World Wine Awards 2021: Platinum medal winners

Located across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, Croatia has its own rich winemaking history and a multitude of indigenous grape varieties to discover. 

In a Decanter Expert’s Choice article, Caroline Gilby MW, joint DWWA Regional Chair with Beth Willard for North, Central and Eastern Europe, writes of Croatia: ‘This is a country with a very long wine history and the UNESCO listed Stari Grad plain on Hvar island is believed to be the longest continually cultivated vineyard anywhere.’

She continues, ‘The landscape varies, from the rolling wooded hills and dramatic hilltop villages of Istria to the sweeping landscape of continental Slavonia… to the sun-baked, rocky and often precipitously steep vineyards of Dalmatia and the islands where nothing much other than grapevines could possibly grow.’

Premium – Expert’s Choice: Slovenia & Croatia

Scroll down to see the 95+ point Croatian wines from DWWA 2020 and tasting notes

Though Croatia has centuries-old winemaking traditions, an ideal climate for growing and a varied range of terroirs and native grape varieties, it’s only in the last decade or so that Croatian wines are beginning to take the spotlight.

Long-time DWWA judge Dirceu Vianna Junior MW recently included Croatia on his list of ‘Top wine trends for 2021: countries, varieties and styles worth exploring,’ and recent results from DWWA highlight the expert judges’ recognition of Croatia’s top-quality wines as well.

Arguably the country’s best performance to date at the Decanter World Wine Awards, Croatia received three Platinum medals (all 97 points) and 11 Gold at the 2020 competition, alongside 68 Silver medals and 88 Bronze.

In comparison, in 2019 Croatia received 7 Gold, 55 Silver and 77 Bronze medals, and the year before, 10 Gold, 38 Silver and 71 Bronze. 

On judging, Beth Willard commented at the 2020 competition, ‘I think there’s something really special about Decanter and its standing in the international wine world – the fact that there are international wine judges and that it attracts such a broad, diverse range of wines. The standard is incredibly high and it’s really demanding to achieve even a Bronze medal – a Silver and a Gold is incredibly difficult.’

For those interested to discover what Croatian wine is all about, below we highlight the 95+ point sparkling, white and red wines from the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 worth seeking out…

Croatia: 14 award-winning wines worth seeking out

The Platinum medal winners

Excerpts from the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 Supplement

Cattunar, Nono 4 Terre, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2015

Platinum, 97 points

Resplendent nose of cloves, cinnamon, marmalade, honey, herbs and stone fruit. The palate is broad and complex, with good concentration, a zesty freshness and mouth-filling peach and fig flavours. A lovely wine with a very long finish.

Kozlović, Selekcija Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2017

Platinum, 97 points

Stunningly clean and impressive mineral and saline nose. The palate is crisp, bright and fresh, with some elegant grip. The finish is very persistent and delivers plenty of flavour, with prickly lime and herbal notes. Superb wine!

Kutjevo, Graševina de Gotho, Slavonija, Continental 2018

Platinum, 97 points

Scintillating Graševina with a serious, complex nose of honey, pear, spice, flowers and quince. Rich and intense palate with generous notes of peach and apple, bright acidity and penetrative length. Highly impressive.

Sparkling

Štampar, Urban White Extra Brut, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental NV

Gold, 95 points

Serious nose with tons of complex lemon, acacia and honey. Quince, lemon and creamy hints on the palate with lovely depth, length and harmonious acidity.

White

Pilato, Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2019

Gold, 95 points

Honeyed pear aromas with savoury spicy notes Concentrated with poached pear and tropical notes, lovely silky texture, good depth and bright fine acidity.

Rossi, Templara Riserva Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2017

Gold, 95 points

Lovely herby, minty and exotic fruit aromas and well managed oak. Ripe and silky peach and caramel palate with rounded texture and backbone; complex and maturing.

Tercolo, Campi del Bosco, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2019

Gold, 95 points

Peach and spiced, youthful bright nose with a touch of spritz. Light body with appealing orange, lemon and almond flavours; easy drinking style and great value.

Testament, Pošip, Sjeverna Dalmacija, Coastal 2019

Gold, 95 points

Fresh lifted nose of youthful pear and acacia with salted lemons. Refreshing palate with bright cut pear and citrus fruit; impressive length and precision.

Tomaz, Sesto Senso Malvazija Istarska, Istria, Coastal 2017

Gold, 95 points

Expressive and rich peach and dried pear scents with a touch of vanilla. Ripe palate with lovely silky texture, impressive acidity, harmonious expression and salty finish.

Vina Istria, Festigia Malvazija Istarska, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2016

Gold, 95 points

Fresh cut pear and interwoven coriander and acacia scents. Lovely intensity of yellow and citrus fruit with an attractive acidic lift; very youthful with a long finish.

Red

Tomaz, Barbarossa Teran, Istria, Coastal 2017

Gold, 96 points

Mightily impressive oozing with dense black fruit, chocolate, spice and dried cherries. Super intense fruit sweetness, mouth-filling but backed by refined tannins and lovely acidity and length.

Fakin, Teran, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2019

Gold, 95 points

Lifted aromas of fresh raspberries and herbs with spicy undertones. Juicy, rounded and sleek palete with generous loganberry fruit and a delicate finish; a wonderful expression.

Testament Winery, The Dalmatian Dog Babić, Sjeverna Dalmacija, Coastal 2016

Gold, 95 points

Fine and subtle raspberry and damson nose. Attractive, fresh and concentrated palate packed full of black fruit, forrest floor character and soft tannins; very well made.

Vina Laguna, Festigia Castello, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal 2016

Gold, 95 points

Mature nose with a hint of savoury character. Rich and intense fruit expression of sweet plum, cherry and chocolate, well managed oak with lovely acidic length.

Search all DWWA 2020 medal winners from Croatia

Slovenia

Time is a great lens to view the landscape and culture of a country, combining both the soil and climate, but also the human factor: the people who create the wines. Slovenia has just a tiny Adriatic coastline and is otherwise surrounded by Austria and Hungary to the northeast, Italy in the northwest and Croatia to the south. It’s a jewel of a wine country, with stunningly beautiful, hilly vineyards divided into three main regions.

Primorska in the west enjoys a Mediterranean climate and is particularly famous for its richly complex whites from international grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, but also the versatile local Rebula (Italy’s Ribolla Gialla). Some of Slovenia’s red wine superstars are also based here, with Merlot ripening most reliably in the hills of Brda, but Pinot Noir also making a strong showing, especially in the wind-blown Vipava Valley.Slovenia’s Podravje region to the northeast is very different, sharing similarities with Austria’s Styria. It’s much more continental with sunny days, cool nights and long autumns making for vibrant, crisp, mouthwatering whites and some amazing sweet wines. Reds are less important, though some increasingly assured Modra Frankinja (aka Blaufränkisch, now believed to originate in Slovenia’s Lower Styria) and Pinot Noir are appearing. The southeastern corner of Posavje has been overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, but it has a promising future for sparkling wine, crisp whites and elegant reds.

Croatia

The Croatian wine scene is a complex mosaic of more than 200 different varieties, and the country claims as many as 120 indigenous grapes. Its 1,800km coastline and 1,200 islands have many nooks and crannies where local grape varieties were able to survive. This is a country with a very long wine history and the UNESCO listed Stari Grad plain on Hvar island is believed to be the longest continually cultivated vineyard anywhere. The landscape varies, from the rolling wooded hills and dramatic hilltop villages of Istria to the sweeping landscape of continental Slavonia (perhaps even more famous for its oak), to the sun-baked, rocky and often precipitously steep vineyards of Dalmatia and the islands where nothing much other than grapevines could possibly grow.

More than 18 million tourists headed for Croatia’s dramatic coastline and sunny climate last year, consuming plenty of wine, so exports are relatively insignificant, but worth the effort to seek out. Croatia’s most important grape is the white Graševina, largely grown in inland Slavonia, while the local Malvazija Istarska rules on the Istrian peninsula, offering fresh, bright, young wines as well as complex, textured skin-contact versions, sometimes aged in acacia wood or amphora. The red Plavac Mali is the most important red, holding sway in the southern warmth of Dalmatia, while the white Pošip, originally from Korcula island, is gaining increasing admiration for exciting whites.

See Caroline Gilby MW’s top wines from Slovenia and Croatia

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How to get there

Fly direct to Split or Dubrovnik from most major European cities. Or take a cross-Adriatic ferry from Italy (Ancona or Bari), arriving in Split or Vis town. Or the highway from Zagreb to Split is stunning, if you have the time to drive.

Dalmatia: Accomodation

Agritourism Frano Milina Bire, Lumbarda, Korčula

Avoid the sightly tacky tourist feel of Korčula town, and stay in this attractive small winery in Lumbarda. Not only is it convenient for beautiful beaches, Bire makes one of the top wines from local rarity Grk. www.bire.hr/en/lumbarda-4

Prijeko Palace, Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is a pricey place to stay, but if you’re going to do it, then you should splash out at this boutique hotel within the gorgeous UNESCO listed walled town. www.prijekopalace.com

St Luke Residence, Split

Immaculately decorated rooms in a central but peaceful location convenient for the palace and the port, and a super-friendly host. Excellent views from the balcony too. www.stlukeresidence.com

Vinarija Bartulovic, Pelješac

Stay in the heart of the peninsula’s winelands at this family winery, with comfortable, well-priced rooms and a traditional restaurant. www.vinarijabartulovic.hr

Plan a wine tour from Split to Dubrovnik

Dalmatia: Restaurants

Kantun, Vis

A short walk from Vis town’s harbour, this peacefully situated restaurant with tables in a sheltered garden and on the quayside is one of Vis’ best. There’s an extensive list of Dalmatian wines, friendly service and outstanding cuisine. Book ahead. +385 21 711 306

Konoba Kopačina, Donji Humac, Brač

Brač is famous for its lamb, and this is the place to eat it. Huge kebabs are roasted over hot coals, or you can choose a Peka (meat or vegetables slow cooked on the embers). Wonderful views over the island’s interior and rooms also available. +385 21 647 707

Ma Toni, Split

A short walk from Diocletian’s palace, this cosy cellar restaurant serves outstanding traditional food – expect homemade pasta, seasonal delicacies and fresh seafood. There are gems on the wine list, but order by the bottle – the house wines are disappointing. Wines can also be bought in the small on-site shop. www.ma-toni.com

Paradajz Lost, Vis

Behind the Turkish watchtower is a bohemian courtyard bar, which is possibly Vis town’s coolest place to drink. You can breakfast here or drink a coffee during the day, but the atmosphere is much more lively at night. The selection of local wines can be hit or miss, but the ambience and setting are the main attraction. +385 91 855 6678

Uje Oil & Wine, Split

In the middle of Diocletian’s palace is this smart, inviting restaurant, which offers olive oil tastings (daily at 11am) and a great wine list. The cuisine is simple but elegant. Its sister location is just across the street, a small, no-frills wine bar where you can enjoy another glass after dinner. www.eng.oilbar.hr

Dalmatia: Wine shops

Telemax Novi Fumar 2, Split

This tobacconist/newsagent looks unassuming enough, until you notice the wine section. There’s a huge selection of Croatian wines from all the islands and major mainland regions. Prices are very reasonable. Kralja Tomislava 1

Simon Woolf is an award-winning writer, columnist and specialist in natural wines. Edited for Decanter.com by Ellie Douglas.

This originally appeared as part of a travel feature in Decanter magazine: Subscribe to Decanter here. 

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Split to Dubrovnik: Croatia wine tour

How to get there

Fly direct to Split from most major European cities. Or take a cross-Adriatic ferry from Italy (Ancona or Bari), arriving in Split or Vis town. Or the highway from Zagreb to Split is stunning, if you have the time to drive.

Plan an itinerary starting in Split – the state-run Jadrolinija ferries provide a plethora of options to explore stony white Brač, heaving but beautiful Hvar, lively Korčula, the more sedate island of Vis or remote Lastovo.

Off the coast at Zadar, the more northerly island of Pag is famed for its cheese, and for white wines made from Gegić – only found here. Closer to Dubrovnik lies the woodland idyll of Mljet. The latter has little wine, but is focused around nature and hiking.

A daily ferry (Kapetan Luka) from Split to Dubrovnik allows you a brief taste of Hvar, Brač, Korčula and Mljet as it stops along its four-hour journey.

Korčula’s old town can get a little chintzy in summer, so head instead to the sandy beaches of Lumbarda where you’ll find a real curiosity – the female flowered Grk, which grows only in this village, surviving perilously through coplanting with Plavac. Its wine is a full-bodied, honeyed joy.

Croatia wine tour: Where to eat and stay

Seek out Bire or Zure (+385 20 712 334) for the best examples. Stash some bottles in your suitcase – Grk is barely available outside the region.

Bire summer visiting hours: Mon – Sat, Individual visits: 10:00-12:00, 16:00-18:00. Groups by appointment. Zure: by appointment. 

Allow a couple of days to enjoy everything that Vis has to offer.

This decidedly upmarket destination is a favourite stop for the yachting crowd and thus both Vis town and the smaller Komiža are packed with excellent eateries. Vis’ top winemaker Antonio Lipanovi conjures extraordinary freshness and finesse from Plavac Mali grown on the island’s sandy soils. His Vugava (the local white variety) is also recommended, as is a visit to his unique winery housed in an ex-military bunker bored into the hillside. (Visting Lipanovic; contact for appointment first, +385 21 711 932)

Rokis, a small organically certified producer, makes an easy-drinking Plavac, best appreciated at its wonderful, rustic konoba (outdoor restaurant). Reserve ahead at its shop near the ferry port.

Any Dalmatian wine itinerary must include a day exploring the southerly peninsula of Pelješac. This steep-sided spit of land is home to Dalmatia’s premium Plavac Mali regions, Dingač and Postup.

Vines cling to the steep rocky cliffs, and literally bake in the summer sun. The resulting wine is usually extremely alcoholic, powerful and sometimes semi-sweet.

As a general rule, avoid any wines with pictures of donkeys on the label.

The Bura Mrgudić family is one of the best exponents of traditional Dingač. Its wines have power and complexity, but can show elegance, too – not easy when alcohol levels often exceed 16%.

For lighter, more nuanced Plavac, visit the Milos winery in Ston, and sample its exceptional Stagnum. (Milos winery: tours available, contact in advance)

Croatia wine tour: When to go

Given its enviable climate and coastline, it’s no surprise that Dalmatia is overrun in July and August. At these times of year Split and Dubrovnik can feel sweltering and stifling, so it’s better to escape to the relative peace of the islands.

To really live the dream (and escape the hordes), hire a yacht from Trogir and spend a week or two sailing around the islands and otherwise inaccessible islets.

Dubrovnik has two festivals of interest to wine lovers who can visit off-season: FestiWine in April and October’s Good Food festival.

Ston, at the southeasterly tip of Pelješac, is famous for its oysters, and has a festival in their honour in late March.

Note that many restaurants and agriturismos are closed during winter, reopening around May.

Simon Woolf is an award-winning writer, columnist and specialist in natural wines. Edited for Decanter.com by Ellie Douglas.

This originally appeared in Decanter magazine: Subscribe to Decanter here. 

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Wildfires on Croatia's Dalmatian coast are believed to have destroyed vineyards, with the Grgich winery near Dubrovnik also losing thousands of bottles worth of wine.

Around 25,000 bottles of Plavac Mali wines from the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages have been lost at the Grgich winery, one of the best known in Croatia and the sister operation of Mike Grgich’s eponymous estate in Napa Valley.

A state of disaster was declared by the municipal government of Dubrovnik-Neretva County after 300 firefighters battled a blaze fuelled by extremely hot, dry summer temperatures and strong winds.

The full extent of damage from the fires is still being determined, but tens of hectares of vineyard were feared to be among the hundreds of hectares of land destroyed on the Peljesac peninsula and the island of Korcula.

Hardest hit was the area around the peninsula’s village of Trstenik, where the Grgich estate is located.

Also burned were vineyards in the neighbouring eastern part of Croatia’s heralded Dingac wine appellation, which is home to many of the country’s premium Plavac Mali wines.

‘Around 100,000 grapevines were destroyed around Trstenik and more in the other areas,’ said Ksenija Matic, a pr representative for the city of Dubrovnik.

‘A number of vineyards from smaller, up-and-coming wineries were badly damaged. But we have to wait and see which vines survived, and what would need to be replanted and so on.’

The main damage at Vina Grgic was to a building housing vintages wines – with the stone winery building itself not affected. But, some wine did survive. ‘Thank God that everyone is safe, and our 2013 Plavac Mali in barrels are safe also,’ said Drazena Vuckovic, who helps manage the winery. ‘We are open for business and for tourists, and we are already preparing for the 2015 harvest.’

Several other wineries were not affected by the fires, including Korta Katarina, Frano Milos and Bura-Mrgudic.

No lives have been reported lost, with residents and tourists evacuated from at-risk areas.

Editing by Chris Mercer

This heart-shaped, northwest corner of Croatia has been billed as the ‘New Tuscany’ and is home to a diverse range of exciting wines. But will they find their place on the world stage? Simon Woolf reports

Istria at a glance

Area under vine 3,102 hectares

Annual production About 200,000hl

Grape varieties for quality (PDO) wines*

White Malvazija Istarka (1,688ha), Chardonnay (130ha), Muškat (90ha), Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano Toscano, Zlahtina Red Merlot (314ha), Teran (230ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (187ha), Refošk (115ha), Borgonja (51ha), Cabernet Franc (51ha), Hrvatica, Barbera, Pinot Noir, Syrah

* Quality wines have the Hrvatska Istra regional denomination. The sub-region (Western, Central or Eastern) and vineyard name are also permitted on the label.

Profile:

When I ask winemaker Franco Cattunar how it feels now that Croatia is officially part of the EU, he smiles patiently. ‘We always felt like we were part of Europe – nothing’s changed really,’ he says. 1 July 2013 may have been a political milestone, but Croatia’s accession has barely caused a ripple in the region’s fermentation tanks.

Istria is entitled to its European sensibilities. After a 200-year tug-of-war between Austria and Italy, Croatia’s northwesterly peninsula still refuses to be neatly contained, slipping quietly over both Slovenian and Italian borders. The Italian influence is strong – Istria has excellent cuisine and some of the Balkan’s most elegant wines, not to mention olive groves, truffles and idyllic coastal towns. The ‘New Tuscany’ moniker is deserved.

The high quality of the wine is no secret, but Istria’s impressive and increasing international profile is recent. Producers were only freed from the shackles of bulk-producing state cooperatives in 1992. The early 1990s were pivotal, as a new generation of pioneers reinvigorated small family estates, modernised wineries and started focusing on quality. Gianfranco Kozlović, Moreno Coronica, Moreno Degrassi and Elidio Pilato were some of the first to push the boundaries, and even the giant Vina Laguna cooperative (now privatised) began to produce serviceable, if unexciting wines.

The explosion in modern winemaking coincided with Istria’s rise as a boutique tourist destination, something that producer and Vinistra president Ivica Matošević feels is crucial to the region’s success. ‘Connecting wine and tourism is a way to tell our story, to communicate our unique terroir,’ he says. And Istria is blessed, with rolling hills, a temperate climate modulated by sea breezes and at least four soil types (white marl/karst, terra rossa or red clay, and black and grey sandstone). That diversity is reflected in a multitude of wine styles – reds, whites and rosés – from native and international varieties, plus smaller quantities of sparkling and sweet wines. But young, fresh Malvazija Istarka is the benchmark, representing 70% of production. It has become Croatia’s favourite white wine, bar none.

Championing native varieties

Kozlović kick-started the revival of Malvazija as a quality wine. ‘It took years to get people to take it seriously – I spent most of the 1990s opening bottles in restaurants persuading people to try it,’ he says. The indigenous Malvazija Istarka deserves its popularity. Though not hugely aromatic, it has a fuller body and more generous fruit than many comparable Italian whites. Typically, there should be a whiff of honey, zesty citrus and pear fruit, and a nutty, bitter finish.

Despite only moderate acidity, Malvazija can be coaxed into a more full-bodied and ageworthy style. Giorgio Clai, Roxanich and Benvenuti have reinvented traditional skin-contact methods, while others (notably Cosetto and Cattunar) leverage late harvesting or oak ageing. New oak is declining in popularity, as producers aim for more subtlety and less overt wood influence. Some are turning to acacia barrels – a plentiful wood in the region – while Kabola has proved that Malvazija can be outstanding when fermented in Georgian amphorae.

If Kozlović was Malvazija’s saviour, Moreno Coronica is Teran’s high priest. Like Kozlović, Coronica inherited the family vineyards at the start of the 1990s and was determined to concentrate on native varieties. His rich, barrique-aged Gran Teran has set the standard for this difficult red grape.

Teran is hard to ripen, and can suffer from brutal tannins and mean acidity. As Cattunar says, ‘To get good results, you must know Teran better than your wife.’ But its unique selling point is its wildness – herby and highly-strung, never bland or heavy. Oak ageing is popular, but the best results are those that don’t overawe the grape, or dumb down its individuality. Franc Arman, Benvenuti, Cattunar, Geržinić, Kabola and Piquentum all make convincing examples, at their best after a few years of bottle age.

Istria’s second native red variety, Refošk, is softer and more accessible, but has suffered from nomenclature confusion: Teran and Refošk were considered to be essentially the same variety, until disproved by recent DNA profiling and research by Dr José Vouillamoz. To make matters worse, the Slovenes insist on calling their Refošk ‘Teran’ and have attempted to protect the name in a political spat that Matošević dismisses as ‘a nonsense’.

Compared to Malvazija, Istria’s varietal Terans show a frustrating lack of consistency, with some producers turning out thin, acidic fare and others using oak or blending international varieties to mute its assertiveness. Yet Merlot is hugely successful here, both in blends and as a fresh, herbaceous varietal. British wine critic Oz Clarke said Istria might be the world’s second-best Merlot terroir after Bordeaux. Does blending hold the key? Many winemakers believe it might. For me, the individuality of Teran and Refošk holds still greater potential, once producers become more adept at handling them.

Riding the wave

The new crop of winemakers emerging from Poreč (the region’s wine school) must be encouraged to take up this challenge. French/Croatian Dimitri Brečević believes they will: ‘Our terroir is vital, and we still don’t understand it properly, but I’m heartened when I see students asking about native varieties, typicity and sustainable viticulture.’

Brečević is one of the second wave of younger producers. Enfant terrible Bruno Trapan has proved that even the stony terroir near Pula has potential, and his surreal railway station-themed winery is worth a visit in its own right, while Benvenuti and Geržinić have established impressive track records. Matošević is enthusiastic: ‘We need young guns, more self-confidence and better communication.’

Vinistra’s IQ (Istrian Quality) denomination is a response to this need, theoretically denoting the best and most typical wines. Arguably, there are too many technically correct but stylistically dull IQ offerings, but there’s no question that it has helped push the region as a whole.

Slovenian Istria’s much lower profile is notable by comparison. There’s no doubting the potential in the Koper and Kras sub-regions, as demonstrated by Uroš Rojac or Uroš Klabjan, but the tiny size of most estates and the lack of a dedicated promotional body seems to keep them out of the limelight.

Istrian wines can be world class, but more ambitious producers need to step up to the plate. From Vinistra’s 120 members, barely 30 produce anything of interest. Estates are small and prices relatively high – and with a strong domestic market where producers sell out every year, that’s not going to change. But if Alto Adige, Friuli and Austria have succeeded with high-quality and premium prices, then Istria can surely do the same. The main issue is availability – these wines are hard to find on our shelves. Is it fanciful to hope that being part of the EU will ease red tape and reduce prices? Perhaps, but I’m confident that this ‘New Tuscany’ can triumph on quality, without a fiasco in sight.

Written by Simon Woolf

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This heart-shaped, northwest corner of Croatia has been billed as the ‘New Tuscany’ and is home to a diverse range of exciting wines. But will they find their place on the world stage? Simon Woolf reports

Six Istrian wine producers to watch

Istria: know your vintages

• 2013: Good potential, but inconsistent. Very mixed autumn weather, requiring difficult decisions about when to harvest. Likely to be better for whites.
• 2012: Very hot and dry. Malvazijas are ripe but lacking character. Vintage required considerable expertise to achieve good results.
• 2011: Good, consistent vintage, with some excellent reds and full-bodied Malvazijas.
• 2010: Poor, rainy year. Still some good wines from top producers, but in general avoid the reds.
• 2009: Outstanding, long-lived wines (whites and reds). Superlative Teran.

Six producers to watch

Geržinić

This tiny, up-and-coming estate is run by brothers Marko and Marino Geržini´c, two of the youngest, hardest-working producers in the region. Their purist winemaking focuses on vintage and terroir expression: their varietal Teran is a superb and typical rendition of the variety, which spurns the new oak many other producers use to soften the edges.

Giorgio Clai

Master and maverick in equal measure, Clai returned to his native Istria after a career as a restaurateur in Trieste and 20 years of ‘making wine as a hobby’. His fiercely individual wines are made in a traditional, non-interventionist way. Clai’s skin-contact whites are one of the pinnacles of the ‘orange wine’ style – few European winemakers have managed to achieve this level of finesse, balance and pure drinkability.

Piquentum

Half-French, half-Croatian Dimitri Brečević returned to his fatherland in 2002, bringing winemaking experience from both Old and New Worlds (Domaine de Chevalier is notable on his CV). His characterful expressions of Malvazija, Refošk and Teran are produced with a very light hand. Brečević cares deeply about terroir: ‘We still have a lot of work to do to understand Istria’s complex soils and varieties.’ The winery is famously unique, situated in a disused military bunker that officially ‘doesn’t exist’.

Cattunar

The largest family-run winery in the region – quality is high and still improving. Franco Cattunar’s 45ha of vineyards encompass the whole range of Istria’s soil types, and the portfolio includes individual bottlings of Malvazija from grey, black, white and red soils. Other highlights include the dry, late-harvest Malvazija Collina, Teran Barrique and Muškat Ruza.

Kozlović

Gianfranco Kozlović almost singlehandedly put Malvazija Istarka back on the map as a quality wine variety, and his unoaked Malvazija remains a textbook example. The Kozlovićs have not stood still, and in 2011 built an impressive modern winery that is becoming a tourist attraction in its own right. The estate now includes a parcel of vines in the prestigious Santa Lucia ‘cru’ and its output is complex, elegant and extremely ageworthy.

Benvenuti

A small, long-established estate situated in the inordinately pretty mountain village of Kaldir, looking over the valley to Motovun. Brothers Alfred and Nikola could rest their laurels on their superb Malvazija and Teran, but the sweet wines produced from Muškat Momjanski and Malvazija are the icing.

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This heart-shaped, northwest corner of Croatia has been billed as the ‘New Tuscany’ and is home to a diverse range of exciting wines. But will they find their place on the world stage? Simon Woolf reports

Eight of the best wine buys from Istria

Misal, Prestige Extra-Brut NV*

18/20pts (93/100pts)

Biscuity traditional method sparkler, with red fruits and a fine savoury finish. This Pinot Noir-Chardonnay- Malvazija blend is reminiscent of a top Franciacorta. The owners, the Peršuric sisters, are sulphur dioxide intolerant, and use very low amounts.

Price £29.95 Pacta Connect

Drink 2014-2015

Alc 12.5%

Giorgio Clai, Sveti Jakov, Western Istria 2011

18.25/20pts (94/100pts)

100% Malvazija, fermented on the skins for 75 days. Intense apricot skin and caramel aromas. Mouthfilling and complex, with roasted plums, dried herbs, and refreshing grip on the finish. Big but beautifully balanced, and very moreish.

Price £35.50 Pacta Connect

Drink 2014-2021

Alc 15%

Klabjan, Malvazija, Istria, Slovenia 2011

17.75/20pts (92/100pts)

Savoury style from the Kras plateau: nutty nose and a saline finish. Taut and austere with just enough creaminess to make it lovable. Made with wild yeasts and unfiltered – winemaker Uroˇs Klabjan just gives the wine ‘a place and time’.

Price £18.50 Pacta Connect, Eton Vintners

Drink 2014-2021

Alc 13.5%

Kozlović, Santa Lucia Malvazija, Western Istria 2009

17.75/20pts (92/100pts)

Late harvest from the hilltop ‘cru’ Santa Lucia vineyards. Full bodied, but so elegant. Oak spiciness, stewed plums and refreshing bitter finish.

Price POA Hallgarten Druitt, Novum

Drink 2014-2017

Alc 15%

Kabola, Malvazija Classic, Western Istria 2012

16.75/20pts (89/100pts)

Pretty floral nose, with hints of honeysuckle and pineapple. Very fresh, generous fruit rounded off with Malvazija’s trademark nutty bitterness. Organically certified. Excellent value.

Price £13.25 Croatian Fine Wines

Drink 2014-2015

Alc 13%

Geržinić, Teran, Western Istria 2011

17.75/20pts (92/100pts)

Mouthwatering black cherry, with wild herbs, cacao and blood orange on the nose. Firm structure and typically bracing acidity, but utterly harmonious. A wine without artifice.

Price £18.50 Pacta Connect

Drink 2014-2018

Alc 13%

Piquentum, Terre 11 2011

17/20pts (90/100pts)

100% Refošk, with charming soft cherry fruit and a characteristic burnt cacao note that adds richness. Lithe and accessible.

Price £20-£21.50 Eton Vintners, Loki Wine, Harvey Nichols, Pacta Connect

Drink 2014-2016

Alc 13.5%

Matošević, Grimalda Red, Central Istria 2010

16.75/20pts (89/100pts)

Mainly Merlot (85%), but Teran’s wildness is distinct on the nose. Fresh, with sour cherry and soft tannins, shows the potential of the Grimalda vineyard. Potential.

Price £26.40 Bancroft, Wine Bear

Drink 2014-2018

Alc 13.5%

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Find out about our Decanter World Wine Awards 2014 Central and Eastern Europe & Croatia judging panel with biographies of the Regional Chair Angela Muir MW plus Ana Emilia Sapungiu, Darrel Joseph, Gearoid Devaney MS, Igor Sotric, Luis Capitao and Robert Gorjak.

Regional chair: Angela Muir MW

Muir started her career with John Harvey & Sons of Bristol, shortly after leaving Bristol University with a degree in politics and economics. She then joined Grants of St James’s and Victoria Wine as a buyer. In 1988, Muir set up her own wine shop and school, before creating Cellarworld International, a wine consultancy helping producers in both Europe and South America make more saleable wines. She is a past chairman of the IMW education committee, and past president of the Wine & Spirit Association of Great Britain and Northern Ireland.

Judges

Ana Emilia Sapungiu

Ana Sapungiu is a buyer for Oddbins and is responsible for the buying of still, sparkling and fortified wines. She started with Oddbins as a Branch manager in the London stores in 2004, before she joined head office in 2007 and made her way into buying. Alongside her job, Sapungiu judges at international wine competitions and is studying for the Master of Wine. When she is not doing anything wine-related, she loves travelling and visiting her family back in her native Romania.

Darrel Joseph

Darrel Joseph is based in Vienna and began writing about the wines of Central, Eastern and South-Eastern Europe in 1995, after his palate was captured by Hungarian Tokaji and Austrian Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Since then his interests have broadened to include Croatia, Slovenia and all Balkan wine countries, plus Georgia and Russia, as well as the aforementioned Austria and Hungary. Joseph’s writing has appeared in Decanter, Wine Spectator, Wine Business International and Harpers Wine & Spirit, and he has also contributed to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and wein.pur’s Best of Austria, and Guide to Grüner Veltliner. He was also the English language editor of Lászlo Alkonyi’s book, Tokaj, The Wine of Freedom. When he’s not writing, Joseph conducts wine tastings and seminars internationally, and translates a wide range of wine texts from German to English.

Gearoid Devaney MS

Gearoid Devaney MS works at Flint wines, an independent merchant based in London. He was named Restaurant magazine’s Sommelier of the Year 2007, UK Sommelier of the Year 2008, and is now a Master Sommelier. He was head sommelier at London’s Capital Hotel and has additionally worked at London’s l’Oranger and the 3 Michelin starred Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. In 2003 he assisted Tom Aikens in opening his signature restaurant and was part of the team instrumental in the restaurant winning a Michelin star.

Igor Sotric

After graduating with a degree in microbiology, Igor Sotric moved to the UK and entered the wine industry 18 years ago. Qualified to WSET diploma level, he is head sommelier and wine buyer at China Tang at the Dorchester, and has prior experience with Asian restaurants, including Cocoon and the St Martins Lane Hotel. Sotric also acts as consultant to several restaurants, and since 2009 he has been making his own Chardonnay in Goriska Brda, Slovenia, with his friend Marijan Simcic.

Luis Capitao

Luis Capitao is a California-based wine industry veteran and international wine consultant. Former roles have included advising Eastern European wineries and government associations on export strategies, a ten-year period in strategic marketing with Constellation Wines U.S., and a tenure as marketing director of WJ Deutsch and Sons Inc, during which time he successfully rolled out Yellow Tail in the US. Capitao holds an MBA from the Rochester Institute of Technology, and a BA in economics from Rutgers University. He is currently managing partner of the company he co-founded, Touchstone Wines, a sales and marketing firm working with foreign wineries.

Robert Gorjak

Robert Gorjak lives near Ljubljana, Slovenia, and has written about wine since 1994. Beside regular contributions to Slovenian periodicals, he is a contributor to The Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine, and is the author of Wine Guides Slovenia 2008-2012. A former Regional Chair for the DWWA, Gorjak founded Slovenia’s first wine school, Belvin, and in 2013 he joined Slovenian winery Dveri-Pax as their export manager.

Written by John Abbott

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Croatian Sweet over £15went to Kutjevo Traminac, Continental 2012 (10.5%)

Tasted against:

• Krauthaker, Graševina, Continental 2011

Profile:

‘From an early age I was following in the footsteps of my father and grandfather, learning a lot about wine,’ recalls Kutjevo’s winemaker ivan Marinclin. ‘My grandfather had a plot of 700 vines and while helping him tend them, i fell in love with wine and learned to respect the coexistence between man and nature.’

Marinclin joined Kutjevo in 2010, and he could immediately see the potential of some of its vineyards – potential which has clearly been realised, given this Regional Trophy, and a second one for Kutjevo’s Graševina.

The vineyards for this Trophy-winning icewine are planted in the area of Hrnjevac and are the highest vineyards in continental Croatia. The grapes are harvested in the chill of winter, at temperatures of around -7°C. Using natural yeasts and taking place in a cellar dating from the 13th century, fermentation can sometimes take more than six months, resulting in only 1,500 litres of the final wine. Marinclin justifiably calls this process ‘a true challenge for any oenologist’.

He says his aim is for consumers to taste in this wine ‘the magic of this Croatian region: the vineyard sites, the terroir. I want them to taste the growth of each berry in the vineyard. I am proud of these wines and think they deserve these great awards.’ So did our judges.

Written by Decanter

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for went to Kutjevo, Graševina Turković, Continental 2012 (13.6%)

Tasted against:

• No other Golds in this category

Profile:

One of Croatia’s largest wine producers, Kutjevo has existed in one form or another since 1232 when Cistercian monks built the first cellar (still in use today). it took huge leaps forward between 1948 and 1983 under Ivan Lambrovic, who built the framework for Kutjevo’s transformation into a dynamic, modern company. Today it sells its wines in 16 countries, exporting half of its production.

Kutjevo’s winemaker is Ivan Marinclin, who is passionate about the land on which he works: ‘our terroir is the most important aspect of the whole story of these wines,’he says. ‘The vineyards, which are of volcanic origin, are on the southern slopes of Papuk and Krndija mountains at an altitude of 250m to 400m, surrounded by oak forests. They are sunlit the whole day and among the best locations for making wines in Croatia.’

The low-yielding Graševina vines that bore the fruit for this Trophy-winner are more than 30 years old and the volcanic soils gives the wine lovely streaks of minerality. Just 20,000 bottles were made of this 2012 vintage.

Kutjevo also found success with its sweet white wines, winning a Regional Trophy for a 2012-vintage Traminac.

Written by Decanter

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Croatian White over £15 went to Belje, Goldberg Graševina, Continental 2006 (13.1%)

Tasted against:

• No other Golds in this category

Profile:

When Prince Eugene of Savoy returned from wreaking havoc against the Turks in the late 17th century, he was rewarded for his troubles by being gifted the land where Belje stands today. he promptly built a castle and a farm, and merged the surrounding villages to create one singular agricultural estate. it is then that he came across a vast wine cellar from the early 15th century (and still remaining today), which had also been used as a horse stable, powder magazine and prison. Encouraged by his discovery, he built an irrigation system and planted his first vines.

Since 2006 Belje has been owned by the Agrokor Group which, in 2011, built a new winery (with a capacity of eight million litres) among its vines. Marijan Knezevic has been head winemaker since 2000.

Knezevic only makes the Goldberg Graševina in fine years, and the grapes for this Trophy-winner come from vines that are between 30 and 40 years old and grown at 210m to 245m altitude. The fruit was picked over a 10-day period in October and November 2006, the harvest being delayed due to a cold spring and cool summer. But the health and quality of the grapes were very good, and their full maturity resulted in a wine of richness and complexity, with a touch of botrytis.

Written by Decanter

Hear from our Croatia Regional Chair Angela Muir MW on which wines to buy, which wines to leave on the shelf and what to keep an eye on from this year's Decanter World Wine Awards....

Our entries from Croatia largely went native this year. Lots of golden Grasevina from the lush, inland, hilly zones north of Bosnia-Herzegovina scored highly with dry, late-harvest and true dessert wines. These will surely contribute to a real change of image for a grape that used to be infamous, at least to the older British drinking public, as Laski Rizling. Grasevina’s broad, easily appealing fresh bread and lemon curd hallmark serve to make it Croatia’s most popular grape.

What should we buy from here?

On the coast, especially in Istria, there are various forms of Malvazija – a little firmer and crisper in style than those from other regions. In the past five years, the excellent and self-critical Istrian winemakers have learned how to best show off this difficult grape and quality is vastly improved. Further south, in Dalmatia, young Malvazijas are vivid and lively, cutting nicely through local seafood and the wonderful regional olive oil it is cooked with. Wines with more maturity no longer have the high macerations and high alcohols of the past but are now subtly lengthened and softened by skilful use of acacia or light oak to leave them herbal and gently spicy.

What should we leave on the shelf?

The white grape Posip did not fare as well as in past years. The wines were mostly hotter and clumsier than they have been, mainly because of vintage conditions. Dalmatia’s starred, Plavac Mali, which until now has consistently become cleaner and more visibly full of red plum fruit and finer tannins, reverted to its past slightly dirty and farmyardy style – at least as far as our entries were concerned. This was a shame; let’s hope it’s merely a blip.

What should we keep an eye on?

Teran from Istria: it can be tough but, when made well, it’s a cool, elegant red with pure sloe and elderberry fruit and a great partner in a blend with Merlot. Finally, two white wine pleas for producers: next year, can we see some deliciously fresh, Marastinas as well as more wonderful, rich, herb- and peachdriven Grks? Croatia’s native grapes need to be more widely known and appreciated. The second plea is to Decanter readers: the extraordinary dedication that goes into making dessert wines deserves your recognition, and Croatia makes them out of almost every grape going. Seek them out, sip, savour, smile and spread the word about these and the country’s other hidden gems.

Written by Decanter

Dobra Vina in Murvicka will be showcasing award-winning wines from 29th September 2012

Address: Radnička 1a, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

www.dobravina.hr

Dobra Vina offers a broad selection of over 900 labels of high quality and premium wines from Croatia, as well as from all over the world. The desire of our team, is to create an environment with a unique approach to wine and contribute to the re-affirmation of the culture of wine drinking in Croatia.

The selected award-winning wines available are:

• Agrolaguna, Festigia Cabernet Sauvignon, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Badel 1862, Korlat Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Badel 1862, Korlat Syrah, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Capo, Chardonnay, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Capo, Gemini, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Capo, Malvazija Istarska, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Commended
• Capo, Sagittarius, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Silver
• Cattunar, Chardonnay, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Bronze
• Cattunar, Teran, Istria, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Bronze
• Cattunar, Muškat Bijeli Momjanski, Istria, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• De Georgiis, Syrah Barrique, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Dubrovacki Podrumi, Plausus, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Franc Arman, Teran Barrique, Istria, Coastal 2007 Croatia – Silver
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Graševina, Podunavlje, Continental 2010 Croatia – Bronze
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Traminac, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Traminac Ledena Berba, Podunavlje, Continental 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Iločki podrumi, Traminac, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Korta Katarina, Posip, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Silver
• Krauthaker, Zelenac Kutjevo, Slavonia, Continental 2011 Croatia – Commended
• Matosevic, Grimalda, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Matosevic, Grimalda, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Commended
• OPG Škaulj Šime, Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Silver
• Petrac, Chardonnay, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2002 Croatia – Bronze
• Podrumi Belje, Graševina, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Podrumi Belje, Frankovka, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Podrumi Belje, Merlot, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Pz Svirce Badel 1862, Ivan Dolac Barrique, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2007 Croatia – Commended
• Saints Hills, Nevina, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Commended
• Vina Laguna, Festigia Malvazija, Istria, Coastal 2011 Croatia – Bronze

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Dobra Vina's Rijeka store offer you the chance to try award-winning wines this October

Address: Riva 20a, Rijeka, Croatia

www.dobravina.hr

Dobra Vina offers a broad selection of over 900 labels of high quality and premium wines from Croatia, as well as from all over the world. The desire of our team, is to create an environment with a unique approach to wine and contribute to the re-affirmation of the culture of wine drinking in Croatia.

For more information please contact:

Mr. Tomica Pustišek

Managing Director

tomica.pustisek@dobravina.hr

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Taste award-winning wines at both Dobra Vina venues in Zagreb

Address: Radnička 1a, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

www.dobravina.hr

Dobra Vina offers a broad selection of over 900 labels of high quality and premium wines from Croatia, as well as from all over the world. The desire of our team, is to create an environment with a unique approach to wine and contribute to the re-affirmation of the culture of wine drinking in Croatia.

The selected award-winning wines available are:

• Agrolaguna, Festigia Cabernet Sauvignon, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Badel 1862, Korlat Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Badel 1862, Korlat Syrah, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Capo, Chardonnay, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Capo, Gemini, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Capo, Malvazija Istarska, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Commended
• Capo, Sagittarius, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Silver
• Cattunar, Chardonnay, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Bronze
• Cattunar, Teran, Istria, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Bronze
• Cattunar, Muškat Bijeli Momjanski, Istria, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• De Georgiis, Syrah Barrique, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Dubrovacki Podrumi, Plausus, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Franc Arman, Teran Barrique, Istria, Coastal 2007 Croatia – Silver
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Graševina, Podunavlje, Continental 2010 Croatia – Bronze
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Traminac, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Traminac Ledena Berba, Podunavlje, Continental 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Iločki podrumi, Traminac, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Korta Katarina, Posip, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Silver
• Krauthaker, Zelenac Kutjevo, Slavonia, Continental 2011 Croatia – Commended
• Matosevic, Grimalda, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Matosevic, Grimalda, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Commended
• OPG Škaulj Šime, Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Silver
• Petrac, Chardonnay, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2002 Croatia – Bronze
• Podrumi Belje, Graševina, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Podrumi Belje, Frankovka, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Podrumi Belje, Merlot, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Pz Svirce Badel 1862, Ivan Dolac Barrique, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2007 Croatia – Commended
• Saints Hills, Nevina, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Commended
• Vina Laguna, Festigia Malvazija, Istria, Coastal 2011 Croatia – Bronze

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Dobra Vina is giving you the opportunity to taste DWWA-winning wines at both their venues in Zagreb

Address: Radnička 1a, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

www.dobravina.hr

Dobra Vina offers a broad selection of over 900 labels of high quality and premium wines from Croatia, as well as from all over the world. The desire of our team, is to create an environment with a unique approach to wine and contribute to the re-affirmation of the culture of wine drinking in Croatia.

The selected award-winning wines available are:

• Agrolaguna, Festigia Cabernet Sauvignon, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Badel 1862, Korlat Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Badel 1862, Korlat Syrah, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Capo, Chardonnay, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Capo, Gemini, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Capo, Malvazija Istarska, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Commended
• Capo, Sagittarius, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Silver
• Cattunar, Chardonnay, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Bronze
• Cattunar, Teran, Istria, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Bronze
• Cattunar, Muškat Bijeli Momjanski, Istria, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• De Georgiis, Syrah Barrique, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Dubrovacki Podrumi, Plausus, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Franc Arman, Teran Barrique, Istria, Coastal 2007 Croatia – Silver
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Graševina, Podunavlje, Continental 2010 Croatia – Bronze
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Traminac, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Iločki podrumi, Principovac Traminac Ledena Berba, Podunavlje, Continental 2008 Croatia – Commended
• Iločki podrumi, Traminac, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Korta Katarina, Posip, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Silver
• Krauthaker, Zelenac Kutjevo, Slavonia, Continental 2011 Croatia – Commended
• Matosevic, Grimalda, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Matosevic, Grimalda, Istria, Coastal 2009 Croatia – Commended
• OPG Škaulj Šime, Cabernet Sauvignon, Northern Dalmatia, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Silver
• Petrac, Chardonnay, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental 2002 Croatia – Bronze
• Podrumi Belje, Graševina, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Bronze
• Podrumi Belje, Frankovka, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Podrumi Belje, Merlot, Podunavlje, Continental 2009 Croatia – Commended
• Pz Svirce Badel 1862, Ivan Dolac Barrique, Central and South Dalmatia, Coastal 2007 Croatia – Commended
• Saints Hills, Nevina, Istria, Coastal 2010 Croatia – Commended
• Vina Laguna, Festigia Malvazija, Istria, Coastal 2011 Croatia – Bronze

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Zagreb, Croatia

Address: Radnička 1a, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

www.dobravina.hr

Dobra Vina offers a broad selection of over 900 labels of high quality and premium wines from Croatia, as well as from all over the world. The desire of our team, is to create an environment with a unique approach to wine and contribute to the re-affirmation of the culture of wine drinking in Croatia.

The selected award winning wines available are:

• Dubrovacki Podrumi, Merlotina, Srednja I Južna Dalmacija, Primorska Hrvatska 2007 Croatia (Bronze)
• Degrassi, Terre Bianche Cuvée Rouge Riserva, Istra, Primorska Hrvatska 2007 Croatia (Bronze)
• Zlatan Otok, Ostatak Bure, Srednja I Južna Dalmacija, Primorska Hrvatska 2008 Croatia (Silver)
• Feravino, Frankovka Miraz, Slavonija, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2008 Croatia (Bronze)
• Obiteljski Podrum Josic, Cuvée Ciconia Nigra, Podunavlje, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2008 Croatia (Commended)
• Ilocki Podrumi, Traminac Principovac, Podunavlje, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2008 Croatia (Bronze)
• Ilocki Podrumi, Graševina Principovac, Podunavlje, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2008 Croatia (Silver)
• Vinarija Daruvar, Sauvignon Daruvar, Slavonija, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Commended)
• De Georgiis, Syrah Barrique, Sjeverna Dalmacija, Primorska Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Bronze)
• Krauthaker, Syrah, Slavonija, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Silver)
• Istravino, Dajla Cuvée Barrique, Istra, Primorska Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Bronze)
• Agrolaguna, Festigia Cabernet Sauvignon, Istra, Primorska Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Commended)
• Veralda, Istarska Malvazija Prestige, Istra, Primorska Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Bronze)
• Krauthaker, Geasevina Mitrovac, Slavonija, Kontinentalna Hrvatska 2009 Croatia (Commended)
• Agrolaguna, Malvazija Laguna Histria, Istra, Primorska Hrvatska 2010 Croatia (Bronze)
• Zlatan Otok, Posip, Srednja I Južna Dalmacija, Primorska Hrvatska 2010 Croatia (Bronze)

This promotion occurred in October 2011.

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When will the New World stop being called the New World? Maybe when there is a New New World to take its place.

A trip to the Zagreb Wine Festival convinced me that we are, in fact, about to see that New New World, and that it is called Eastern Europe.

I got a fascinating sense of what is going on viticulturally recently, by visiting the Zagreb wine festival, which gathers together the best producers from Eastern Europe. This year’s event took place in Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art, and was organised by the dynamic duo Ingrid Badurina Danielsson and Irina Ban Vakosavic.

The break up of old Yugoslavia and the emergence of countries such as Croatia 20 years ago have given the wine industry a new dynamism. In the past many of the grapes headed straight to the co-operatives, but now individuals are relishing their chance to make their name and to experiment with both international and indigenous varieties. Wherever I went in the fair I was met by young enthusiastic winemakers, showing off wines that were new in many ways.

Croatia has two major regions, 12 sub regions and 71 appellations. There are 17,000 winegrowers and 800 producers growing 60 varietals, the major three being Grasevina, Mavazia and Plavac Mali (which means little blue and is the ancestor of the Zinfandel grape). The three account for 47% of what is under vine.

What struck me most was the freshness and acidity in both whites and reds. There were some terrific examples of terroir-driven wines with delicious freshness and minerality. I particularly enjoyed Kozlovic Malvazija 2009 from Istria which reminded me of when I first tasted Pieropan’s Soave, a wonderful texture, very elegant with depth of fruit and refreshing minerality,

For the reds the combination of Merlot and indigenous grapes such as Babic, Teran or Plavac Mali were successful and had a delicious black-cherry bite, like some of the wines of Northern Italy. My star red was the 100% varietal Gracin Babic 2008, a pugnacious earthy wine with full mulberry fruit, crisp acidity and bags of character.

The problem came with some reserve wines, when power and oak handling strangled any sense of place. One winemaker told me he left his grapes on the vines three weeks longer for his reserve wine; it showed in the contrast between his delicious, drinkable regular selection and the reserve’s extracted dead fruit.

What is exciting is that the raw material is here and, as important, the determination. I will definitely be going back–with some of the best winemakers only having two or three vintages under their belt, there is a lot to look forward to.

Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert’s top five wines from Croatia

Istra

Brečević Dimitri:

Half French half Croatian, Dimitri studied wine in France before moving to Croatia 5 years ago. It’s only its 4th vintage but the result is already very promising. Dimitri only makes 3 wines from indigenous grape varieties: a Malvazija, a Teran and a 100% Refošk. The wines showed purity of fruit and elegance with a very precise acidity; no oak are used and they have a perfect expression of the local grape and terroir.

Coronica Moreno :

Coronica’s family has been making wines for decades and his first contact with winemaking started when he was 6 years old. In 1992, he started his profession as a winemaker, first in Italy and then France. Moreno makes two Malvasija, a Gran Teran and a 100% Merlot. The 2 reds are definitely the highlight of his range with the Gran Teran the stand out with notes of fresh red berries and a lovely herbal hint on the finish.

Matošević Ivica :

Ivica Matošević entered the wine world as a pure coincidence; while studying for his PHD in science, he met with a professor in viticulture and what was a curiosity at the start, it’s now a passion. Without family tradition, Ivica started experimenting and he’s is now regarded as one of the most highly regarded producers in Croatia. His range consists of a few blends of international and traditional grapes. The star wine was the Grimalda Crevno, a blend of Merlot and Teran exhibiting pungent red vibrant fruits with a fine acidity and all in harmony.

Dalmacija

Bibich

The entrepreneur, Alen Bibić, set himself to re-establish the family wine business at the age of 22. Not an easy task as he first had to clear the field of land mines before replanting the vineyards. Today, Bibich’s range specialised in indigenous grape varieties, from Debit, Plavina, Lasin to Maraština and Pošip with the exception of his Grenache/Syrah blend. His sweet Ambra is a must try, made from the Debit grape, the nose is full of orange peel and caramel, it’s expressive and complex with notes of sultana, dates, mocha and cinnamon.

Andro Tomić:

Andro Tomic was the winner of the show this year after his Plavac Mali was voted the best wines. Not only a charming man but also a very talented winemaker; Andro started his career in France – studying winemaking in Montpellier – and established the winery in 1997. All the wines from the range have an amazing acidity and very harmonious. His straightforward 2007 Plavac was my highlight: a very attractive fruity wine with ripe cherry and a refreshing acidity.

Written by Sarah Kemp