This year's Barcelona Wine Week (BWW) happened against the backdrop of great turmoil both at home and abroad. But not even train disruptions and fluctuating oil prices prevented the fair from being, in my view, the most successful to date – not merely because of its noticeable growth but also because it managed to strike a refreshing balance between maverick and established names, flagship and upcoming regions.

While the fair’s overarching theme this year focused on the ‘wine dynasties’ that have shaped the establishment and evolution of Spanish wine, the event vividly highlighted the role that ‘New Wave Spain’ has had in making the country’s wine scene what it is today. Unlikely visionaries from different backgrounds and walks of life that have added to the multigenerational cannon of Spain’s longstanding producers catalysing an important synergy between past and future, continuity and disruption.

It’s at the intersection of boundary-pushing energy and enduring legacy that Spanish wine defines itself today, with a brave and unlikely optimism in the face of many challenges. It was this optimism and energy that animated BWW 2026 – a much needed balm in yet another turbulent year.

So what are the main vectors along which Spanish wine is evolving? These were some of the main topics heard along the BWW halls.

No/low, a continuous evolution

It’s one of the hottest topics in the wine & spirits industry and, perhaps unbeknownst to most, Spain is world-leading when it comes to the development of no- and low-alcohol (no/low) drinks.

The consideration of no/low products as part of a producer’s range is no longer an afterthought but rather a strategic decision, backed by great effort and investment.

Interestingly, this is an area being animated both by longstanding family companies and ‘new kids on the block’, reflecting the wider dynamic of the Spanish wine sector. Catalan powerhouse Familia Torres has invested steadily and purposefully in the development of their award-winning alcohol-free Natureo range while continuing to develop other products. One of my tasting highlights at BWW was a preview of the since-released Juan Torres Master Distillers Casals Zero, a 0% abv counterpart to the classic Casals Vermouth.

Among the other companies leading the charge are Vintae, with its Le Naturel collection, and Bodegas Matarromera which pioneered its Win Sin Alcohol project in Ribera del Duero.

New generations on both sides of the counter

Whether backed by a long family lineage or incepting a new project, it was exciting to witness a vibrant multi-generational dynamic of exchange and continuity.

The role that new generations are playing both in building the future of family companies (such as Gramona, José Pariente and Ochoa, to name just a few) and starting new ventures (such as Jorge Olivera, Raúl Perez or Manu Michelini) will have a huge, lingering impact.

Meanwhile, it’s important to that these fresh faces are building on the knowledge and tradition of their predecessors and in fact placing renewed focus on lost traditions and overlooked old vines.

Ever-expanding geographies

Handily grouped geographically, each cluster of producers reflected the idiosyncrasies and diversity of their respective regions. Overall, it was obvious that the geographic power dynamics are shifting, with Northern Spain losing its historical – but in fact relatively recent – hegemony. While it remains home to the country’s leading regions – Galicia, Rioja, Ribera del Duero – there’s an increasing appreciation for the diverse, expansive and long history of Spanish wine, much of which in fact started along the Mediterranean coast.

The rise of the Levante is perhaps the most obvious aspect of this geographic and historical readjustment, with denominations of origin such as Utiel-Requena, Jumilla, Yecla and Alicante producing some truly exciting wines.

At the same time, Jerez is reemerging as a source of innovation woven with tradition with the (unfortified) Vinos de Pasto turning heads the world over.

Holistic takes on sustainability

The discussions around legacy, succession and renewal that permeated BWW’s 2026 edition brought to the fore the social component of wine. The acknowledgment of the human component of terroir highlighted the need to interpret sustainability more broadly and deploy sustainable practices that tackle more than environmental aspects.

The role of quality-led cooperatives – such as Cuatro Rayas (DO Rueda), Bodegas Sonsierra (DO Rioja), Grupo Coviñas (DO Utiel-Requena) or Celler Masroig (DO Priorat), all present at the event – has become ever more relevant, sustaining large communities of growers that would otherwise be forced to abandon their vines.

This also reenforces the importance of family-owned and -managed companies, a beacon of consistency and stability against the backdrop of great turmoil worldwide.

The realisation of this continuum between landscape and people was front and center at BWW and promises to continue to be a hot topic as the world prepares to yet more socioeconomic challenges.

Beth Willard, Eugenio Egorov and Matthew Forster MW tasted 98 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 63 Highly recommended

Priorat 2021 vs 2022: Panel tasting scores

98 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 63

Recommended 27

Commended 3

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry red wines classified as DOCa/DOQ Priorat from the 2021 and 2022 vintages

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Priorat 2021 vs 2022 panel tasting

Opposites attract

Vintage variation can be likened to different musical styles.

Taylor Swift, for instance, provides instant gratification, while Rosalía requires more thoughtful consideration, but both are outstanding in their own right.

In this panel tasting we compared the wines of Priorat from the two very different vintages of 2021 and 2022, one subtle and discreet, the other a little more obvious, but each expressing the region through unique interpretations.

In general, the cohort of 2022 wines offered immediate appeal, with bright, juicy fruit and ripe tannins, while the 2021 vintage wines tended to be fresher and more structured, with good ageing potential.

These characteristics seem to correspond to the vintage conditions, which varied greatly.

Drought and extreme heat marked the growing season in 2022, although the older Garnacha and Cariñena vines proved how resilient and adaptable they are when they experience tough conditions.

‘Serious knowhow’

In contrast, 2021 was altogether cooler, with lower temperatures and significantly more rainfall, which lowered alcohol levels appreciably.

Eugenio Egorov noted the ‘fresher and balanced wines from the cooler 2021’, but equally appreciated the approach to the warmer 2022 vintage.

‘The 2022 wines offer great fruit character,’ he explained. ‘There is more winemaking to balance the difficulties experienced in the vineyards, but the approach taken is heading in the right direction, with less over-oaking and more purity of fruit.’

The quality of winemaking was also noted by Matthew Forster MW. ‘Priorat is established – there’s a lot of serious knowhow, and the number of wines scoring 90 points or higher speaks to their credibility and quality.’

In particular, Forster highlighted the personality of the wines. ‘It is great to see stylistic diversity – the region is so much less homogenous than before.’

Certainly, vintage discussions aren’t redundant, but with serious winemaking skill and knowledge, the region’s more problematic years can be tamed and result in delicious wines.

Perhaps one day Rosalía – a native of Catalonia – might not just sing about Sauvignon Blanc but also the outstanding wines of Priorat!

What to eat with Priorat wines, by Fiona Beckett

Should different vintages dictate different wine pairings? I guess it depends how far apart they are. You might well go for a different match with a younger wine than an older one, but should you take into account vintage conditions?

No more so, I’d suggest, than wines from different producers who favour a particular style. It’s also a question of personal taste – is it better to pair a hearty stew with an equally intensely flavoured wine or a lighter wine for refreshing contrast?

That said, Priorat is a wine I would turn to for the last roasts and braises of winter, particularly with dishes such as ox cheek and short rib, and look forward to opening with the first barbecues of spring and summer. They are definitely wines for carnivores.

They’re also good wines to serve with a cheeseboard, especially with stronger cheeses such as vintage cheddar and punchy blues, of which the Spanish have some great examples, such as Picos and Cabrales, although you might turn to the more structured 2021s for those.

So maybe you do need to take account of vintages after all…

See all notes and scores from the Priorat 2021 vs 2022 tasting

The judges

Beth Willard is a wine communicator and judge with a particular passion for the wines of Spain. A regular contributor to Decanter and one of the five Co-Chairs of the DWWA, she is also a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he is particularly passionate about the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America

Priorat 2021 vs 2022 panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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The leading event for quality Spanish wine held from 2-4 February in the heart of Barcelona, brought together more than 1,300 exhibitors, 90 DOs and nearly 1,000 national and international buyers, offering a platform for valuable conversations and business opportunities. 

This year, Barcelona Wine Week paid tribute to the finest family wine dynasties. As part of the programme, Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) hosted a masterclass showcasing families that defined excellence at the 2025 competition. Led by DWWA Co-Chair and Spanish expert Beth Willard and moderated by Decanter‘s Regional Chair for Spain, South America & Portugal, Ines Salpico, the masterclass featured eight wines scoring 95+ points. 

From traditional-method sparkling to aromatic whites, robust reds and fortified wines, Willard presented a curated flight of DWWA 2025 Gold, Platinum and Best in Show award winners from across Spain.

Discover the eight wines showcased at the masterclass below

Willard began by explaining the rigorous judging process to attendees before diving into the wines. In 2025 nearly 17,000 wines from 57 countries were evaluated by 248 judges. Wines are grouped into carefully curated flights and judged against their peers. 

Following the first tasting, Gold winners (95-96 points) are grouped by category and re-tasted blind in a second round of judging. The very best are elevated to Platinum (97+ points) and re-tasted a final time by the Co-Chairs, who then select the 50 Best in Show wines. 

Spain once again had a strong year in 2025, ranking among the top three countries by number of medals. At the masterclass, Willard presented two of the competition’s 50 Best in Show – Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa Gran Vinya Classificada 2023 from Priorat, and Del Duque V.O.R.S, Amontillado from González Byass. 

The line-up also included a Value Gold wine (under £15 at the time of judging), underlying how quality is recognised at every price point. 

DWWA is committed to celebrating excellence in winemaking while reflecting real-world market conditions. In addition to the added exposure gained by producers who were featured in the masterclass, all exhibitors were able to hand deliver their wine entries for DWWA 2026 at the Decanter stand, providing a convenient and cost-effective shipping method.

See below to discover the line-up of 95-97-point wines which were presented on the day (in tasting order).

The eight masterclass wines

Alta Alella, Mirgin Exeo Evolució+ Brut Nature, Cava 2007

Gold, 95 points

60% Pansà Blanca, 40% Chardonnay

Gorgeous roasted hazelnuts, almonds, baked bread and biscuits set the tone with a permeating lemon and lime freshness besetting the mousse and a crunchy mineral finish. Alcohol 12%

Cherubino Valsangiacomo, deSantJaume Malvasia, Valencia 2024

Value Gold, 95 points

85% Malvasia, 15% Merseguera

Tantalising pear, apple, apricot and peach aromas underscored by tingling notes of grapefruit, lemon and lime. Bright and crisp with a linear structure and lengthy herbal finish. Alc 12.5%

Bodegas Alvear, Tres Miradas Paraje De Riofrío Alto 3er Año, Montilla-Moriles 2021

Platinum, 97 points

100% Pedro Ximenez

A formidable style, enchanting the nose with fennel, dried almond and herb characters and imbedding the palate with a mineral structure and an intriguing textural grip. Quenching, salivating and saline with swathes of toasted nuts on the finish. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Valdemar, Conde Finca Alto Cantabria Viñedo Singular, Rioja 2023

Gold, 95 points

100% Viura

White peach, apricot and grapefruit aromas tumble over the glossy sheen of oak that cushions the embracing acidity. Creamy and plush with a piquant finish. Alc 13%

Bodegas Rodríguez Y Sanzo, Palo Norte Verdejo, Rueda 2020

Gold, 95 points

100% Verdejo

Intricately laced with dried chamomile, dried herbs and mace on the nose, with a flourish of delectable lemon peel acidity and a long nutty finish. Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Y Viñedos Verum, Ilusioverum Cdvin Garnacha, Rioja 2022

Gold, 95 points

100% Garnacha

Bedecked with redcurrants, red cherries and raspberries with a sizzling lick of black pepper. Softly structured with supple, plummy acidity and a boundless, spicy length. Alc 14.5%

Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa Gran Vinya Classificada, Priorat 2023

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Carignan

Priorat has been almost as successful in our Best in Show pantheon as Barolo – this concrete-aged Carinyena is the region’s sixth laureate. This purity and finesse of this wine makes a convincing case for Carinyena as the pre-eminent variety for Priorat – and, contrariwise, for Priorat as the world’s greatest location for Carignan. It’s also a plaudit for concrete ageing, whether in egg or otherwise. The wine is a dark black-red in colour, and the aromas are less fruity than most; it’s one of those wines which seems to smell as much of a landscape as of fruit. It’s only two years old, yet the ageing has been so successfully managed that it has the seamlessness and harmony of a much older wine. On the palate, it is refined, graceful and shawl-like, full of lingering dark-fruit intensity but counterbalanced by the wine’s unstrenuous cashmere tannin and insinuating, palate-lapping acidity: extraordinary finesse for a variety often regarded as workmanlike elsewhere. Alc 15.5%

González Byass, Del Duque V.O.R.S, Amontillado, Sherry NV

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Palomino

Like the other Amontillado in this year’s Best in Show, this VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) Amontillado is formidable. It’s slightly deeper in colour: a deep orange amber. Its aromas, too, are fuller and weightier than its peer, reminding the fortunate drinker of antique furniture and generously endowed college libraries – as well as the scents of dry places in high summer, with their warm stones, path-trodden, sun-dried figs and tough, scruffy herbs. On the palate, it is a little less savagely pure, aerial and vaporising, with more depth and bottom to it; it has dark corners and recesses of flavour, whereas its sibling was all light and air. Technically, in fact, it has a few grams of residual sugar, though you won’t notice those as the wine’s sheer power of flavour and acid cut more than offset any sweetness. A remarkable drink; a wine-world reference. Alc 21.5%

Search all DWWA 2025 winners 

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Thomas Herbert

Herbert & Co, Champagne, France

By Tom Hewson

In the quiet village of Rilly-la-Montagne on the Montagne de Reims, a transition is underway that is emblematic of Champagne’s rapid influx of new ideas. Two brands – Didier Herbert and Herbert & Co – currently live under the same roof, made by the same man: Thomas Herbert.

Didier Herbert is Thomas’ family brand, founded in 1920 and run by his father since 1982. With its traditional livery and customer base formed around the (now struggling) French market and longstanding visitors to the winery (many of whom apparently come to collect his father’s novelty wire caps), this is what Thomas calls a ‘classical’ brand.

Next to the remaining bottles of Didier Herbert on the shelves lie signs of something utterly different: neon lights, striking monochrome graphics, unusual bottle closures. Giant blue tongues saying things like ‘1,000% Meunier’ sit framed on the floor, awaiting hooks. This is Herbert & Co.

Not all plain sailing

‘These two brands, Didier Herbert and Herbert & Co, are completely opposite,’ says Thomas, making it clear that the transition has not been a straightforward case of the keys being handed down the family line.

Thomas, who trained as an interior architect, returned to work with his family in 2016 without an understanding that he would take over, but after his father’s attempted sale outside the family fell through, Thomas and his partner managed to buy it.

‘We don’t do anything for Didier Herbert any more,’ he says. ‘In four or five years, the brand will be gone.’ It’s not only family negotiations that sometimes prove obstacles as generations switch over: the costs of making a wholesale change in the cellar is enormous.

‘We can’t buy the barrels – it would be crazy, €80,000 – so we lease them.’ The vineyards, too, have been modernised, in a process which started with Thomas stopping herbicide usage before he took over ownership. ‘I had to fight for this – before, the vineyards were like the moon,’ he says.

He’s no idealist, though: ‘I don’t do it to save the planet, it’s just part of our work.’

Although he has lost access to some of the vineyards his father used, he seems happy with the 30,000 bottles per year Herbert & Co is now producing. After all, having a giant tongue on your label might not be for everyone:

‘If I was selling a million bottles it might be a problem!’ he admits.

Leo & Roc Gramona

Gramona, Catalonia, Spain

By Ines Salpico

Resilience, tragedy and responsibility: three words that largely explain why and how Leo (Leonard) and Roc Gramona found themselves at the helm of their family’s eponymous traditional-method, longageing sparkling powerhouse in 2023.

The cousins – sons, respectively, of Xavier and Jaume Gramona (cousins themselves) – are the sixth generation to take the reins of the storied Penedès winery, whose origins go back to the 1850s.

A path, however, from which they veered at first, sceptical of being able to define their identity within the microuniverse of the family business.

Roc studied oenology and worked a series of harvests across the world, eventually settling at Cellers de Scala Dei, in Priorat; Leo went off to study engineering and work at corporate consulting. It would be another consultant working for Gramona who, in 2018, highlighted that continuity and lineage are the essence of the company.

The cousins were therefore challenged to join Gramona and become acquainted with its operations and ethos in the hope of one day taking up the batons from their respective fathers. Leo and Roc agreed, though not without reservations. In parallel, the cousins wanted to test – and prove – their abilities and stylistic leanings, in some ways defiantly different to their family’s.

Their personal project, L’Enclòs de Peralba (‘the white stone clos’), was thus born. The pair partner with small growers to produce a range of low-intervention yet technically exact wines that give centre stage to the terroirs and indigenous varieties of Penedès.

The project’s success gave the pair confidence while also consolidating their own stance at Gramona.

Transition & evolution

The years that followed were an intense if at times trying school: Covid-19 dried up the company’s main sales channel overnight and demanded quick and dramatic adaptation.

‘Then came the magical years of 2022 and 2023, with great sales and people really eager to go out and share a good bottle of wine,’ says Leo. Unfortunately, the sense of optimism and reprieve was fleeting.

Xavier Gramona’s untimely death, in August 2023, as the result of a fall, shook the family’s emotional foundations and precipitated leadership transition. The cousins were asked to step up and take over their fathers’ responsibilities, with Jaume Gramona moving to a strategic oversight position as the company’s president.

The transition was a period of intense emotions. ‘We really had to put our egos aside and understand where we come from and where we’re heading to collectively,’ Leo says.

‘It’s about surrendering to something bigger than ourselves.’ Roc agrees: ‘We all want to say something through the wines we make. But it’s important to overcome the “wanting to replace the father” stage and acknowledge the contribution of previous generations.

That’s when real transition and evolution happen.’ There are clear echoes of their fathers’ own journey: from a conventional, French-influenced winemaking approach to biodynamic pioneers and champions of a quality-first, terroir-driven philosophy that led them to leave the Cava DO and establish the Corpinnat group of like-minded producers in 2017.

They too found a mission that transcended their personal goals. As a result of the long ageing cycles of Gramona’s wines, the two cousins are still selling the wines produced under their fathers’ leadership.

‘It’s very humbling,’ says Leo. At the same time ‘there’s a curious – serendipitous or not – convergence between the work we’ve done at L’Enclòs de Peralba and the [future] direction of Gramona’.

A serendipity six generations in the making.

Next instalment: Santiago Deicas & Gianna Kozlović

Wines from a new generation:

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Decanter magazine’s recently published Spain supplement for 2025 features a round-up of key news for Spanish wine lovers, including new English-language books from the elBullifoundation and a London pop-up for Barcelona’s Bar Brutal during October and November.

elBullifoundation English edition books V and VI released

Created as a natural evolution of the ethos of the former elBulli restaurant, the eponymous foundation has been keeping star chef Ferran Adrià and his team very busy since they served their last meal at the celebrated Catalan restaurant in 2011.

One of the institution’s most impressive projects is the spectacular Bullipedia, a series of gorgeously designed tomes exploring the world of gastronomy, from produce to business by way of history and science.

The seven volumes of the Sapiens del Vino – published in English, with the support of Juvé & Camps, as Wine Sapiens – hone in on all things wine.

The English translation of the fifth and sixth titles, totalling more than 1,000 pages dedicated to tasting technique and ‘the origin and evolution of wine’, has recently been released.

It’s a monumental, detailed exploration of how the technical analysis of wine is done, the different purposes it serves, the processes it relies on and how different factors contribute to outcome. €120 per volume, ElBullifoundation.

Barcelona’s Bar Brutal hits London

Barcelona cult wine haunt Bar Brutal is in London until 30 November for a two-month pop-up at Seabird, the 14th-floor rooftop restaurant of The Hoxton, Southwark.

Known for its extensive natural wine list, progressive small plates, quirky interior and collaborations with winemakers, visual artists and musicians, Bar Brutal was founded in 2013 and quickly became one of the world’s trendiest wine hotspots.

As part of the London residency, in partnership with Scotch whisky brand Monkey Shoulder, Seabird will be serving eight special dishes described as ‘coastal classics with a Brutal twist’.

These will be paired with three wines from the Brutal canon – Celler Pardas’ Rupestris 2023, Terroir al Límit’s Històric 2022 and Escoda Sanahuja’s Els Bassotets 2022 – and three cocktails created by Monkey Shoulder. Bar Brutal’s sought-after merchandise will be available for purchase.

Mallorca gets new boutique retreat: Finca Banyols

Nestled in the Tramuntana mountains – designated a UNESCO Cultural Landscape since 2011 – a new five-star boutique hotel was scheduled to open in the fourth quarter of 2025 in Alaró, northwest Mallorca.

In a renovated manor and surrounded by 100ha of olive groves, vines and citrus orchards, Finca Banyols will have 32 rooms (including a signature suite designed by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada), a wellness centre, a heated outdoor pool, two restaurants developed with the help of prominent chef-patron Dani Chávez-Bello (currently of Babette in Miami, Florida, and others), and a bar pouring a selection of Mallorcan wines alongside European classics. 

Update: No rooms were available until 30 April 2026, according to the booking system for Finca Banyols via InterContinental Hotels & Resorts.

Vintae’s productive pandemonium

It’s been a very fruitful year for Vintae, the family-owned Rioja group behind Hacienda López de Haro and Viñedos El Pacto (both in Rioja), Bardos (Ribera del Duero) and Matsu (Toro).

In February, Vintae signed an agreement with Terramoll, in the island of Formentera, and will now oversee vineyard management and production. The partnership was followed by the announcement, in August, that Vintae had returned to 100% ownership of El Bandarra, the very recognisable Catalan vermut brand, having bought back the 25% stake previously held by an arm of Diageo.

These developments build on a string of interesting releases and projects, headlined by Le Naturel, a collection of low intervention and no-alcohol wines, and Pandemonium, a duo of traditional-method sparkling wines aged for three years on the lees.

Book corner: The Wines of Central and Southern Spain

The epicentre of Spanish wine is – as this guide vividly shows – fast-moving. Sarah Jane Evan MW’s latest book, published in June by Académie du Vin Library, explores the outstanding evolution that the country’s centre and south have undergone in the last couple of decades – some of Spain’s most exciting wines are now coming from perhaps unexpected geographies, beyond the better-known northern counterparts.

A comprehensive reference work with essential information on indigenous grape varieties, wine styles and key producers. £35, Académie du Vin Library.

Ramón Bilbao backs Spain’s national football teams

Ahead of the 2026 football World Cup – to be co-hosted by Canada, Mexico and the USA – and of the qualifiers for the women’s counterpart in 2027 in Brazil, Ramón Bilbao has announced a partnership with the Royal Spanish Football Federation (RFEF).

Support from the Rioja-based producer comes at a pivotal moment; both teams are currently leaders of the FIFA world rankings and the female cohort will be defending the world champion title achieved in 2023. 

First Spanish Master Sommelier: Roberto Durán

This past June, Roberto Durán became the first person from Spain to attain the status of Master Sommelier.

It was the culmination of a strenuous but worthwhile journey for the Madrid-born, Singapore-based Durán, whose preparation process involved mental coaching, thousands of flashcards and daily 15-kilometre runs.

Having honed his craft at 67 Pall Mall in central London, Durán relocated to Singapore where, after a stint at Joël Robuchon, he joined the London club’s Singaporean outpost when it opened in 2022. He oversaw its wine list and sommelier team until March 2025 when he took a break to focus on his study and preparation.

He’s now easing back into activity at Temper wine room and lounge at the Mondrian Singapore Duxton. Has anything changed since he’s added the hard-earned suffix to his name? ‘No. I’m still the same person; I’m still the first to get in [to work] and the last to leave,’ Durán said.

This article was first published in the Spain 2025 supplement accompanying Decanter magazine’s November 2025 issue.

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This past summer, as the US edged toward authoritarian populism, I travelled to a French semi-autonomous wine region with the thought that a five-decades-past story of resistance might offer solace.

Corsica’s jagged mountain peaks erupt from the sea and its steep hillsides teem with aromatic scrub. The region’s best wines are highly redolent of this maquis: eucalyptus, fennel, fig, juniper, laurel, mint, lavender, myrtle, rosemary, sage, strawflower, thyme.

The Corsican people are famously intrepid, once known for their vendettas – bloody family feuds – and their mastery of the craft of knifemaking. From these people, this land and ancient Roman, Greek and Etruscan roots arose distinctly regional wines.

These wines came under threat during the 1960s and ’70s, when some 17,000 French rapatriés – French colonists fleeing a newly liberated Algeria – arrived on the island and secured government land grants that enabled industrial-scale viticulture, quadrupling vineyard acreage while tarnishing Corsica’s reputation.

In August 1975, a group of Corsican growers and activists, armed with hunting rifles, seized a rapatrié-owned cellar in Aléria. The standoff spurred support for the riacquistu, a Corsican movement to reclaim heritage through language, song… and viticulture.

‘I still remember seeing my father take his rifle to help friends entrenched in a winery during the 1975 clashes,’ recalls Yves Leccia, a wine grower in Poggio d’Oletta who has led the revival of Corsican winemaking and vine varieties. ‘This fight has now been won, but we must continue our efforts to ensure that the lesser-known Corsican grape varieties are also integrated into the appellations.’

Currently, the only traditional Corsican grapes that can bear an AP designation are Vermentinu, Nielluciu and Sciaccarellu. Leccia is one of many vignerons who feel honour-bound to vinify unrecognised endemic varieties such as Minustellu, Biancu Gentile, Codivarta, Riminese and Genovese.

‘I didn’t know that PDOs [protected designations of origin] could rewrite 3,000 years of history,’ scoffs Jean-Charles Abbatucci, a wine grower who – in continuing the work of his father – is credited with saving many of Corsica’s autochthonous grapes, many of which are not officially recognised. ‘The paradox is that the greatest Corsican wines are often classified as Vin de France or Vin de Table.’

At Domaine de Marquiliani in Haute-Corse – not far from where the armed standoff took place – Anne Amalric and her daughter Pauline are working with researchers on a test vineyard and vine library to ensure that Corsica’s heirloom varieties thrive.

Traditional practices accompany the traditional grape varieties. Amalric drapes wool from a neighbour’s sheep over her vines and olive trees to protect against humidity. Abbatucci sprays his vines with seawater in lieu of copper or sulphur. Clos Culombu – like Domaine Comte Abbatucci a biodynamic estate – hosts an event that revolves around the revival of La Tribbiera, the ancient practice of threshing wheat with oxen.

‘I practice what I call “historical agriculture”. Indigenous grape varieties are witnesses to the dawn of time, perfectly adapted to our region, climate and soils,’ Abbatucci tells me. ‘These grape varieties tell a story – that of Corsica and its identity… Producing this wine is a way of preserving memory, but also of building a future. It is an act of resistance against standardisation.’

In the past, I often laughed off the idea of government overreach at home. At the same time, I admired vignerons abroad who championed their traditional methods and grape varieties in the face of oppressive bureaucratic rule. Today, I’m seeing these growers in a new light. If their wine-growing is an act of resistance, I want to join the revolution.

In my glass this month

Domaine Comte Abbatucci, Général de la Révolution 2023 (£69.90 Millésima), a field blend of ancient white varieties with honeyed richness. Clos Culombu, Storia di Signore 2023, scented with wild flowers and tasting of almonds, grapefruit and sea breeze. Domaine de Marquiliani, Le Gris de Pauline 2024, a delicate rosé; fresh and briney – a pink wine I want to drink year round. And Yves Leccia, O Bà! 2020, a spicy blend of old-vine Minustellu, Niellucciu and Grenache – serve chilled and drink with pride.

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Luis Gamiz, Andrew Johnson and Pierre Mansour tasted 174 wines, with 7 Outstanding and 69 Highly recommended

Catalonian whites: Panel tasting scores

174 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 69

Recommended 89

Commended 9

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry white wines from any DO or DOCa in Catalonia. Wines without a Geographical Indication (Vino de España) were considered if produced in Catalonia with grapes grown in Catalonia

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Catalonian whites panel tasting

A walk on the white side

Our ambition for this comprehensive tasting, covering all of Catalonia’s DOs and IGPs, was to highlight a different side to a region better known for its reds.

Alongside DOs where white wines are indeed the specialism and focus (Penedès, Alella, Pla de Bages), there was also a strong showing from counterparts where reds reign (Priorat, Montsant, Terra Alta and the like).

‘The whites from Montsant were a real surprise,’ said Pierre Mansour. ‘As a buyer it made me look at the region differently. It is producing world-class whites that consumers should explore.’

Unsurprisingly, entries were heavy on wines from Penedès, but the top-scoring line-up reflects the diversity and quality found across Catalonia.

For Luis Gámiz, the tasting showed ‘a region where the [white] category is rapidly developing, with producers making interesting “new old styles”’ by exploring local varieties and terroir diversity. ‘The DOs are all levelling up,’ he concluded.

Andrew Johnson agreed: ‘It was nice to see a good spread at the top. It shows that there’s innovation and ambition in smaller DOs, such as Pla de Bages, which people might not expect to see next to Penedès, Montsant or Priorat [at the top of the table].’

Native varieties to the fore

The baseline quality and value were also important takeaways. ‘We would at times have liked to see a bit more character and difference,’ said Johnson. ‘But there’s great consistency. We tasted so many wines that people would buy today, and go back for the following week.’

Mansour stressed the ‘strong individuality of the best wines, particularly those produced with local varieties’. He was particularly taken by the Macabeus, Garnacha Blancas and some of the Xarel·los – ‘Real standouts for me,’ he said.

While these grapes were dominant, Forcada, Malvasia de Sitges, Pansa Blanca, Parellada and Picapoll also featured – an indigenous viticultural wealth being newly appreciated and reinterpreted by producers across Catalonia.

Overall the tasting showed that, as Johnson put it, ‘Catalonian whites are in very good shape’. ‘There’s so much for consumers to discover,’ Gámiz concurred. The outcome of this tasting challenges us all to seek them out.

What to eat with Catalonian whites, by Fiona Beckett

Reading the report of this tasting made me wonder why we don’t drink Catalonian whites more often – they have so much to offer at the table. 

There are variations of course, but in general there’s a weighty character to the wines, especially the Garnacha Blanca, which makes them white wines that can do duty for a red. 

Given we’re in Spain, pork would be an obvious starting point. That said, it’s an area where there’s a lot of seafood, so do think about fish and shellfish, especially wood-roasted or cooked over coals: whole fish such as turbot cooked in a wood-fired oven, big juicy gambas, seared squid and grilled razor clams would all go brilliantly, as would a big hearty seafood stew or mar y montana (‘sea and mountain’) dishes, which combine meat and seafood, such as chicken with langoustines. 

This type of wine is also great with typical Spanish rice dishes: not so much paella – or what passes for paella – but richer dishes such as lobster rice or arroz negro (black rice), again with seafood.

Click here for more Catalonian white wines that have featured in Decanter panel tastings

Catalonian whites panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Luis Gamiz is business and product development manager and Spanish wine buyer at Indigo Wine. He has extensive experience in the wine industry, having previously held positions at Alliance Wine, The Knotted Vine and Vinoteca

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters and also heads his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, having bought the Society’s Spanish wines for nearly 20 years. He is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain

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Ahead of – and beyond – the celebration of International Women’s Day on 8 March, this year’s edition of Barcelona Wine Week (BWW) held a special tasting and panel discussion on ‘Vinos de Autora’, featuring a stellar line up of wines produced under the technical direction of female winemakers. It showcased female talent in the best possible way: without a ‘gendered’ perspective but rather, and simply, by showcasing their work and experience.

Knowledge and talent – beyond gender

Moderated by the Catalan sommelier and journalist Meritxell Falgueras (also fifth generation at the helm of Celler de Gelida) the panel included Laura Tragant (head winemaker at Codorníu, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia), Martina Prieto Pariente (winemaker and second generation, Bodegas Prieto Pariente, Rueda), Amor López (winemaker and founder, Bodega Erupción, Lanzarote), Mireia Pujol-Busquets (winemaker and second generation, Alta Alella, Alella), Mayte Calvo de la Banda (technical director, Bodegas Bilbaínas, Rioja), Anne Cannan (winemaker and second generation, Clos Figueras, Priorat), María Barbadillo (winemaker, Bodegas Barbadillo, Jerez) and Clara Verheij (winemaker and founder, Bodegas Bentomiz, Málaga). All the presenters are members of Mujeres del Vino, a collective, spearheaded by Cannan, that advocates for the visibility of women working across the different sectors of the wine sector, from the vineyards to the restaurant table.

The group brought to the table a wealth of winemaking talent as well as entrepreneurial acumen and experience navigating complex sets of challenges – not least by virtue of having built successful careers in a once male-dominated industry and, in some cases, carved their own personal identity from established family legacies.

Diversity and resilience

One couldn’t help but wonder whether there isn’t some correlation between greater inclusivity – of gender, background, nationality and philosophy – and the outstanding evolution that Spanish wine has experienced in the last 30 years, both on the quality and creative front. And, as the panel highlighted, a more diverse language and vocabulary of wine ultimately lead to more inclusivity among consumers as well.

The heterogeneity of the panel – with winemakers from very different personal and professional trajectories – offered a glimpse of the vibrancy of the Spanish wine scene, enriched as much by the continuity and stability of longstanding family-owned businesses (Barbadillo, Prieto Pariente), modern pioneering projects capable of mobilising their respective DOs (Alta Alella, Erupción) and ventures lead by passionate foreigners, bringing with them a different vision and maverick determination (Clos Figueras, Bentomiz).

Indeed the session focused not just on matters of gender equality and representation but also, and perhaps more topically, on the issues affecting the Spanish (and world) wine industry broadly. It was a vibrant discussion that presciently touched on economical and political setbacks, climate change and social sustainability – the latter deeply co-dependent on greater inclusivity and equality among the work force.

Eight wines, many more questions

The eight wines tasted served as an easy, logical thread – natural prompts to each of the topics raised, starting with Barbadillo’s ÁS de Mirabrás Sumatorio, which contextualised the need to preserve – while reinventing – traditional styles by reinterpreting the classics and asserting a personal (and generational) identity.

Both Erupción’s Milagro de Magmasia and José Pariente’s Finca Las Comas made the case for the preservation of ancient soils and old vines (one of the key focusses of BWW this year) of which Spain has a particularly significant stock. Maintaining them comes at great cost and requires significant resources, but the importance of such investment cannot be understated, especially in light of climate change. Following several vintages of heatwaves and drought, the resilience of old vines became apparent; able to deliver yields – albeit low – of great quality fruit was a lifeline for many producers and also an eye opening case study of sorts.

The need to preserve genetic diversity and allow plants to reach a level of self-sufficiency highlighted the relevance of old vines as a sustainability asset that ultimately also produces some of Spain’s best wines.

These same topics would again resurface while tasting Clos Figueras’ Font de la Figuera and Bodegas Bilbaína’s Viña Zaco. The latter further triggered an exchange about the ongoing – and sometimes heated – debates on the move, from key denominations of origin (notably Rioja, Bierzo and Priorat), to place greater emphasis on terroir as part of their classification framework.

As a bridge between the white and red wines, Codorníu’s moreish premium traditional method sparkling Ars Colecta Tros Nous catalysed an interesting discussion on style, quality and meeting – or defying – consumer expectations. Tragant asserted the need to be fearless about the quality and value (and price!) of the wines Spain produces – something that, as all speakers agreed should easily rest upon the country’s terroir diversity and viticultural heritage.

Lastly, and suitably, Verheij gave a lesson of perseverance by recounting her journey from Dutch transplant to champion of a denomination with one of Spain’s longest traditions of winemaking and shipping, which Bentomiz has helped revive in the 21st century.

By weaving the technical with the critical and personal, the panelists contributed to an engaging session that, by not relying on wine jargon, made the wines in the glass all the more relatable – and the larger issues on the table more easy to contextualise.

Overall the session was a tribute to creativity, knowledge and resilience. It offered an interesting journey through regions and wine styles in need of more representation themselves. And, against the backdrop of a troubled political and socio-economic context, it made the case for not taking any achievements or progress for granted.

Vinos de Autora – Eight wines to try:

All wines tasted at Barcelona Wine Week, between 3 and 5 February 2025. 

Wines grouped by style and ordered by score, in descending order.

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Is older better? ‘Not if you’re human,’ according to Doug Frost MW MS. On the other hand, the multisuffixed expert suggested that vines benefit from some age to deliver the best wines and a better express terroir.

Frost was leading a tasting titled ‘Is older better?’, one of multiple sessions held during this year’s edition of Barcelona Wine Week to explore the meaning and importance of old vines, both from a symbolic and winemaking point of view. Other masterclasses included ‘Old Vines – Beyond Beauty’, moderated by Fernando Mora MW and ‘Pre-phylloxera vines, the indelible heritage’, moderated by Ruth Troyano.

Living narrative

The common thread and foremost conclusion, across sessions, was that beyond the impact on taste (more on that below), the attention paid to old vines is fundamentally about social, economic and cultural sustainability.

The fact that so many vineyards were, throughout the 20th century, replaced by higher-yielding varieties has had a deep impact on the potential of commercial differentiation and the climate resilience of many regions. Ironically, and with an almost tragic lack of strategic foresight, decisions made with volume and commercial aggressiveness in mind have limited the potential for singularity and competitive market placement.

As part of the panel discussing pre-phylloxera plantings, Elisa Ludeña, winemaker at Canary Island’s winery El Grifo, described the study of old vines as an ‘archaeology of wine’, unveiling social and economic information, as much as viticultural. And Ludeña pointed out that by looking at the past, and understanding the viticultural lineage of a place, winemakers and regions are better placed to face the challenges of the future. ‘For me this is true resistance,’ concluded Ludeña, asserting heritage-focused viticulture as a rebellious act.

Climate resilience

This was echoed by star winemaker Raúl Pérez at the ‘Beyond beauty session’: ‘Wines used to be produced to be enjoyed; now they’re made to be tasted and scored. We’re losing our identity.’ He went on to stress that the value of old vines is the preservation of wines with a sense of place and inherent drinkability. ‘Old vines allow us to harvest earlier with enough maturity,’ he explained. ‘So you actually have wines with natural freshness and lower alcohol.’

In this context, old vines emerge as a tool in the face of changes in both climate and consumer demand. Winemakers at all sessions stressed how older vines have the ability – albeit at the expense of higher yields – to self-regulate and withstand drought and extreme heat. All while delivering fruit with more concentration and finer acid. ‘It’s all about the root system.’ explained Pérez, suggesting that a more established root network allows the plants to retrieve water and nutrients deeper and process them more efficiently.

Natural selection

Another recurrent comment was that old vines, per se, are not a valuable asset. They only become truly special in the context of a suitable place and if tended to correctly; the idea of the perfect terroir therefore emerges as a complex web of natural and human factors that shape the perfect (old) vines throughout time. And hence their value is also, and perhaps above all, that they are a living, evolving narrative. As many of the panelists pointed out, there is a reason why some vineyards, in some places, live to be old; if they indeed withstand the test of time – not least in the face of the aforementioned commercial pressures – there must be something that makes them inherently different and worthy.

Longevity in turn underscores another important capital of old vines: the preservation of genetic diversity. Along with the ubiquitous planting of international varieties came the hegemony of specific clones chosen with yields and specific aromatic traits in mind, at the cost of complexity and resilience.

The truth in the bottle

Arguably then, the defence of old vines is more about sustainability and heritage than it is about the wines they produce. The latter however, also seem to justify their preservation.

According to Frost there seems to be a breadth of palate and textural complexity that only older plants can deliver consistently. He justifies this with the many physiological aspects touched upon during the different sessions: lower yields; greater concentration; higher resistance to drought.

But can origin, viticulture and winemaking skill trump the expressiveness of an old vine? The answer is complex: origin and viticulture are ultimately part of what shapes that expressiveness; (good) winemaking, on the other hand, can merely embrace the responsibility of leveraging it. As Mora put it, it’s worth keep making ‘wines that are not mere products but rather objects of intellectual sublimation’.

The taste of old vines – eight Spanish wines to try:

All wines tasted at Barcelona Wine Week, between 3 and 5 February 2025. 

Wines grouped by style and ordered by score, in descending order.

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David Williams, Matthew Forster MW and Luis Gamiz tasted 86 wines, with 5 Oustanding and 38 Highly Recommended

Montsant: Panel tasting scores

86 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 38

Recommended 38

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still dry (or off-dry) red, white and rosé wines from DO Montsant

No matter how hard you try to ignore it, the question that haunts any tasting of DO Montsant wines is always: ‘How do these wines compare to those of Priorat?’ And the answer will invariably be something along the lines of, ‘better value, but not quite hitting the same heights’.

Founded as a DO in 2001, a year after Priorat was elevated from DO status to DOCa, Monstant almost entirely envelops the more famous region, both of which are set in the rugged hills of southern Catalonia.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Montsant tasting

Emerging from the shadows

The reasons for comparison are obvious enough: the two regions share much by way of climate, grape varieties and stylistic approach. Then again, Montsant is much more varied in its soils, elevations (from 50m to 700m), aspects and microclimates.

In other words, while it may have kinship with Priorat, Montsant is – or should be – very much its own thing.

The best of the wines on show in this panel tasting had a distinct character, especially those that managed to avoid, in Luis Gámiz’s words, ‘looking to Priorat as a benchmark’ by eschewing obvious oak.

‘For me, the better reds tended to pull away from oak use, to focus on fruit and give a more energetic result,’ said Matthew Forster MW. ‘There were some quite soupy, middle-of-the-road wines that struggled to marry oak with Garnacha in particular.’

For Gámiz, too, the stars of the tasting were the ‘fresher, lighter and more mineral-driven Garnachas and Cariñenas’. All of us on the panel would certainly have liked to taste more of this style.

The whites also impressed, with the best examples showing ‘real authenticity and verve,’ noted Forster.

Ultimately, this was a tasting of wines of remarkable consistency and character, with just five wines tasted failing to make the 86-point (Recommended) cut. ‘The quality in the region is very good in general,’ concluded Gámiz.

Looking down the list of prices, you’d have to say the value is very good, too. So, what was that about a certain region beginning with P…?

See all the wines from the Montsant tasting

What to eat with Montsant wines, by Fiona Beckett

Montsant, as this tasting illustrates, comes in two guises: lighter, fresher, more mineral styles and more full-bodied wines that are more similar to those of neighbouring Priorat.

The former are generally more versatile – wines, like those featured in our value Spanish Tempranillo tasting, that you could happily drink with tapas but also a good accompaniment for tomato-based sauces and grilled meats and vegetables, so good wines to crack open with a barbecue.

You could also pair this style with a tagine or a paella (it would go well with the authentic Valencian style with chicken and/or rabbit).

More full-bodied styles are the ones you would want to enjoy with slow-braised ox cheek, venison, wild boar or other hearty stews: classic cold-weather drinking.

The relatively small number of whites, which are mainly based on white Garnacha and Macabeo, are a natural match for robust seafood dishes such as grilled or roast hake, octopus, dishes with salt cod or with punchily seasoned salads that might well include olives, capers and artichokes.

Montsant panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

David Williams is wine correspondent for The Observer, a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish, and a widely published wine writer, author and competition judge

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he has a particular passion for the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America

Luis Gamiz is business and product development manager and Spanish wine buyer at Indigo Wine. He has extensive experience in the wine industry, having previously held positions at Alliance Wine, The Knotted Vine and Vinoteca

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Alvaro Palacios, L’Ermita Gran Vinya Classificada, Priorat

First vintage: 1993

It’s difficult to be indifferent to the trademark purity of fruit, chiselled tannins and intense minerality of L’Ermita.

Hailing from the eponymous 1.44ha plot in Gratallops, in the heart of Priorat, the wine quickly became Alvaro Palacios’ most sought-after, following its first release in 1993, four years after the star winemaker started his namesake project in the Catalonian region.

See which must-try vintage of L’Ermita Ines recommends below

It’s one of the wines that rebuilt the image of Priorat, repositioning it as a region where heroic viticulture meets fine wine production. Unapologetically priced high from the outset, it instilled a new sense of confidence and possibility among the region’s new wave of producers.

Palacios came upon and purchased L’Ermita shortly before the inaugural vintage. The chapel (ermita) that overlooks the plot provided obvious, and poetic, branding.

Sitting between 350m and 430m, ‘it’s a vineyard touched by a special gift, where the schist and quartz north-facing plots lend Garnacha a transcendent emotional beauty’, Palacios says. The wine itself has gone through significant stylistic changes over the years.

Between 1993 and 2004, the final blend included 25% of Cabernet Sauvignon from another vineyard; since then, L’Ermita – awarded Gran Vinya Classificada status in 2017 – is made exclusively with the Garnacha and interspersed Cariñena and white grapes (Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Pedro Ximénez) planted within its perimeter in 1910 and 1939 (Palacios also planted some vines in 1996-1997).

This reflects an ever-sharper awareness of what makes L’Ermita and Priorat special – and collectible.

‘The land has taught us how to respect, with humility, the true historical legacy of Priorat,’ Palacios explains. ‘Today, we work with indigenous varieties, respecting local traditions, so as to prevail with the typicity and authenticity of what once was.’

The wine to try before you die

Alvaro Palacios, L’Ermita Gran Vinya Classificada, Priorat 2021 – 98pts

£700 (ib) – £1,160 Christopher Keiller, Crop & Vine, Cru, Ideal Wine Co, Millésima, VinQuinn US$1,300-$1,640 Benchmark, Naples Fine Wine, Pogo’s, Zachys

Garnacha and Cariñena with a small splash of white varieties; native-yeast fermented with 55% whole bunches, then aged in French oak foudres for 12 months. Refined, nuanced nose with finely etched aromas of plums, dried violets, black cherries and brambles.

Austere, unapologetic minerality on the palate supports the crunchy blueberry, plum and blackcurrant fruit. A fine layer of red apple peel and vermouth adds vibrancy and energy throughout.

An intriguing touch of tree bark adds a pleasant, earthy pull. Still coiled and timid, this will evolve beautifully for years to come.

Drink: 2025-2050 Alcohol: 14%

Spanish Icons: Alvaro Palacios, L’Ermita

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Wine rarely comes from ugly places, but few wine regions can compete with the beauty of Priorat, southwest of Barcelona. As you head inland from the coastal city of Tarragona – a particularly beautiful train journey that winds through the hills – the land starts to rise and the population becomes notably sparse.

There are barely 2,200ha under vine here – a mere 30th of the size of Rioja, according to that region’s annual reporting.

Priorat’s vineyards are scattered across the rugged, rolling terrain, at varying aspects and elevations; there are no vast swathes of vineyards to announce your arrival here. Instead, the sheer harshness of the land is apparent, with layers of rocky schist and steep vineyard slopes that seem to defy the commercial realities of wine production.

This is not a place for the faint-hearted.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 10 magnificent wines from Priorat

A star is born

Like much of Spain, Priorat can trace its winemaking roots back to ancient times, but the region’s modern winemaking history began later than in its famous Iberian counterparts.

Scala Dei began making wine commercially in 1974, but its potential wasn’t really identified for another decade, when René Barbier III arrived in the region, along with a wave of like-minded winemaking friends. (Barbier, the founder in 1979 of respected producer Clos Mogador, trained and worked in Bordeaux and Burgundy, among others, but is from a long-established winemaking family based on the Catalan coast.)

The style of wine that most still associate with Priorat was created during the 10 years that followed. The old, low-yielding vineyards that were salvaged produced concentrated, powerful wines – very much in vogue at the time – propelling the region to stardom. Critics, particularly from the US, were quick to praise the wines; high point-scores followed.

The Priorat region grew rapidly with investment being made and new wineries opening, including from larger players such as Penedès-based Familia Torres.

Powering down

Grape (and wine) prices are naturally on the higher side here; due to the low planting density, vine age and dry conditions, grape production is about quality not quantity. For the 2023 harvest, selling prices for grapes started at around €1.60/ kg but rose far higher for old vines and grapes such as Carinyena (Cariñena/Carignan), according to Clos Pachem head winemaker Josep Riba Comaposada.

To compare to Spain’s best-known region, in a report on his website in October 2023, Decanter contributor Tim Atkin MW noted that: ‘Against the backdrop of a large and extremely difficult 2023 harvest… Rioja’s grape prices remain unsustainably low at between €0.50 and €1.20 per kilo.’

For Priorat, scarcity, fame and hype led to it becoming one of, if not the most expensive wine region in Spain.

By the mid-2000s, Priorat was at the height of its power – both commercially and in the glass. Expensive new oak was de rigueur, 15% alcohol in a wine was typical, and it was common to see international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah blended with the native Garnatxa (Garnacha/Grenache) and Carinyena (Cariñena/Carignan).

The focus was very much on big, bold red wines; the few white wines being made were typically also big, powerful and oaky.

Yet for all the success of the region, some argued that this style of wine was becoming somewhat one-dimensional and alienating critics who valued elegance and transparency. A quiet revolution got underway, as a new generation of winemakers came into the region and set about telling the story of a different Priorat.

Leading the charge

‘Generational change is always hard,’ explains Sara Pérez, revolutionary winemaker and now owner of Mas Martinet, one of the original ‘Gang of Five’ wineries (together with Clos de l’Obac, Clos Dofí [subsequently Finca Dofí], Clos Erasmus and Barbier’s Clos Mogador) that established the region in the late 1980s. ‘A lot of people criticise my wines as being atypical, but what is Priorat? I think we’re only just beginning to really discover that.’

Pérez took over the winery from her father José Luis Pérez Ovejero in the late-1990s, but it wasn’t until the early 2000s that she started to put her own ideas into practice, looking at higher-elevation plantings and a fresher, lighter style of wine. ‘For me, Priorat is a place, not a defined style; it should have many different faces,’ she says.

Her single-vineyard wines Camí Pesseroles and Els Escurçons are planted at elevations typically high for the region (300m-400m and 600m respectively; vines at Scala Dei range from 400m to 800m, among the region’s highest). Els Escurçons was badly affected by a fire in 2015 and the few bottles made in that vintage proudly displayed a phoenix on the label.

Pure-fruited, energetic and so light on their feet, these are remarkably different from how a ‘classic’ Priorat is still described in textbooks.

The limits and beyond

‘For me, wine is about freshness and life,’ explains Dominik Huber, owner and winemaker at the celebrated Terroir al Límit in Torroja del Priorat. ‘I want a wine that I can come back to again and again, not one that I can only drink one glass of.’

Huber, originally from Bavaria in southern Germany, might be the most extreme of this next generation of Priorat winemakers. His team are often the first to begin the harvest, aiming for lower alcohol and higher natural acidity; vinification is almost exclusively in concrete tanks.

Al Límit means ‘at the limit’ and it’s very fitting; many of its red wines sit at 13.5% alcohol, the lowest permitted by the region’s regulations.

‘It just shows that not everyone is on-board yet with the new direction,’ adds Huber. ‘In 2021, many wines from the region fell below this threshold due to the cooler, wetter weather. Often these were very good wines, but they weren’t acceptable according to the rules of DOQ Priorat, so were declassified.’

Huber’s wife Tatjana also makes superb wines in a similar style under the Coreografia label (Garnatxa-based, red and clarete-style rosé blends, and the Pas de Deux Garnatxa-Carinyena red) in Montsant, the DO region that forms an almost-complete ring effectively surrounding Priorat.

‘We eat a lot of lighter, fresher styles of food and so our wines are also a reflection of what we consume them with,’ comments Huber.

Pérez and Huber both learned their trade at Mas Martinet; Pérez as the next generation of the family to run the winery and Huber as a student of wine. It was at Mas Martinet that Huber first met South African winemaker Eben Sadie, with whom he first created Terroir al Límit in 2001, using fruit purchased from the Pérez family (Sadie has since moved back to Swartland to focus on his own project).

It’s worth noting that both Mas Martinet and Terroir al Límit use an element of reductive winemaking for added tension in the wines.

‘Heavy reductive characters aren’t the goal,’ clarifies Huber, ‘but for me, a little just adds an edge that is very attractive.’

This little extra zip, along with the incredible detail of the wines, does feel very natural. Nowhere is this more evident than in Terroir al Límit’s flagship-range wine Les Manyes, the most remarkable expression of Garnatxa Peluda (the rare, downy-leaved variant of the variety) that I have ever tasted – 100% varietal, grown at 800m, whole cluster-fermented then aged eight months in cement tanks.

Exploring diversity

A significant development in Priorat is an increase in white wine production. Despite the region’s warm and dry climate, the white wines have incredible aromatic precision and a naturally high level of acidity, courtesy of the stony schist soils and pronounced diurnal temperature range.

Plantings are led by Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeo and Pedro Ximénez, and together account for less than 10% of total production in the region, though this is growing at a rapid rate.

René Barbier IV (born in 1973 in Nancy in France, home to his mother, Isabelle Meyer) is now at the wheel of Clos Mogador, the winery – one of the most celebrated in the region – founded by his father.

‘Priorat has always been a red wine region,’ he explains, ‘but with the revival of brisat (skin contact) methods, earlier harvests and a better understanding of what makes Priorat unique, I can see our own production ending up at 50:50 between red and white wines.’

Clos Mogador’s Nelin has long been one of the most emblematic white wines of the region. A complex blend based on Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeo, it has taken on new life under Barbier Jr’s leadership – it’s fresher and more driven, yet retains its traditional punch and texture.

Another, widely supported change is the renewed focus on indigenous varieties. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon were planted in the 1980s and ’90s to appeal to the international market, but the high temperatures and lack of water proved less than ideal conditions for these varieties to thrive.

Even Syrah needs certain microclimates to really grow well in Priorat, and few old vineyards of the variety exist.

Embracing change

Many winemakers have taken the opportunity to top-graft [onto existing rootstock] to indigenous varieties, often in fairly high-profile vineyards.

‘Manyetes [the acclaimed single vineyard in Gratallops] used to be around 30% Cabernet Sauvignon,’ explains Barbier Jr, ‘but the rising temperatures cooked the grapes to a crisp. Only Carinyena can really survive in harsh conditions like this, so we have shifted over the years.’

Even commercial giants such as Alvaro Palacios have increased the portion of Garnatxa in their wines, increasing year by year and replacing international varieties.

‘Carinyena and Garnatxa only really show themselves after 15-20 years in the vineyard,’ explains Oriol Castells, the general manager of Alvaro Palacios in Priorat, ‘so it is important to begin planting them now.’

Despite inevitable friction as styles and ideas change, the new direction for Priorat is clearly being met with enthusiasm. Out in the trade, sommeliers in major wine cities such as Tokyo, New York, London and Copenhagen have started to list the wines with more frequency, particularly those made in a more minimal-intervention style.

More sustainable viticultural methods, such as at the biodynamic Nin-Ortiz, are attracting new buyers and drinkers who have previously avoided the weight and power of Priorat. The perception of the region in the market is evolving.

The true beauty of Priorat is its landscape. The old vineyards, the steep slopes, the dry river beds, shrubs, forests and mountains together create a special place in which to make wine – almost as if Portugal’s Douro valley has a long-lost brother on the other side of the Iberian peninsula.

The wines that reflect this unique sense of place are likely to thrive, and that is certainly the direction in which the best winemakers in Priorat are headed.

Priorat renewal: Kerr’s pick of 10 from the DOQ’s new wave

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Perched on the Mediterranean coast in northern Spain, Hostal de La Gavina transports guests back to the glamorous heyday of the Costa Brava. Opened as a family-run ‘hostal’ with 11 rooms in 1932, it was a Hollywood hideaway in the 1950s and even became a film set for Liam Neeson’s 1930s detective film Marlowe.

Black-and-white photographs of famous former guests such as Elizabeth Taylor set the tone for your stay. Today La Gavina’s 74 rooms and suites retain their luxe glamour, with polished parquet floors, silk upholstery, Venetian Murano glass lamps and Italian marble bathrooms. It’s easy to feel like the star in your own movie here.

You’ll also receive star treatment from the hotel’s helpful staff – whether you’re breakfasting on the terrace or relaxing by the outdoor pool with views over the bay of S’Agaró. There’s also an indoor pool at Gavina Spa, a haven of tranquillity with sauna, massages and signature Valmont beauty treatments.

Beside the sea

Feeling active? Water sports including kayaking, paddle-boarding and water-skiing take place on Sant Pol beach, just below the hotel. Or simply take a relaxing stroll along the beachfront, beside jaunty rows of white vintage beach huts.

Make a beeline for La Taverna del Mar, just two minutes’ walk from the hotel, with its breezy white-and-blue interiors and perfect sea views. Open from June to September, the range of fresh seafood dishes here includes tuna and turbot ceviche, salt-crusted sea bass and Catalan specialities such as squid with artichoke and asparagus.

After lunch head for the Camí de Ronda coastal path, which begins at the foot of Hostal de La Gavina and is part of the Mediterranean Path (GR92). This long-distance trekking route crosses Catalonia from Cap de Creus to the Montsià mountain range on the border with Valencia. Follow the coast around the small Punta d’en Pau peninsula on a trail lined with pines and tamarind trees.

A taste of Catalonia

If you’ve worked up an appetite, La Taverna del Mar is just one of the dining options at La Gavina. Expect light Mediterranean dishes at the poolside Garbí Restaurant or visit El Barco for tapas and sandwiches. But a highlight of your stay will be a decadent dinner at Candlelight, with its menu devised by Romain Fornell, chef at Michelin-star Caelis in Barcelona.

Fornell’s creative tasting menu features seasonal dishes and luxury ingredients. Think canapés of crispy chicken skin with shrimps and bone marrow; white asparagus with beurre blanc and caviar; or tortellini of langoustine and foie gras. Food is paired with bottles from an extensive wine list showcasing local wines from Catalonia – including a great selection of Cava and Corpinnat sparklers – plus other Spanish regions.

Food and wine will be a star attraction of your visit to the Costa Brava. The region is home to 18 Michelin stars, including three-star El Cellar de Can Roca in nearby Girona. The hotel can arrange culinary tours of the city to explore the local cuisine.

Look out for the sign ‘flequers artesans’ which signals shops and cafes offering local artisan ingredients and dishes. Seek out xuixo – breakfast buns filled with crema Catalana, which are a Girona speciality. Don’t miss the vibrant market – and if you can’t get a table at El Cellar de Can Roca, drop by Rocambolesc ice cream shop for an affordable taste of Jordi Roca’s sensational desserts.

Wines and vineyards

For wine lovers, Hostal de La Gavina makes a good base to explore the vineyards and wineries of DO Empordà. Bordering France, the winemaking here has much in common with its French neighbour Roussillon. Garnatxa and Samsó (Carignan) – both red and white – are the most common grapes.

The hotel will arrange bespoke visits to local wineries such as Clos d’Agon, which is just a 20-minute drive away. Vineyards here were planted in 1989 by the winery’s original Franco-Belgian owners, who introduced French varieties Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, plus international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Today Peter Sisseck consults and the engaging Miguel Coronado makes the wines – which don’t use the DO name since the grapes aren’t authorised by DO regulations. Enjoy a picnic among the vines, with bottles such as Viognier-Marsanne blend Valmaña and top rosé Alba del Tinar, a blend of Grenache Gris and Cabernet Franc.

Further north is Terra Remota, owned by Marc and Emma Bournazeau-Florensa. This 54ha organic estate also has vineyards planted with French and international grapes. Look out for its signature red Camino, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. A winery tour and tasting costs €22, while a picnic with wines in the vineyard is €26.

From the vineyards of Empordà to the Michelin stars of Girona and beaches of S’Agaró, a stay at Hostal de La Gavina showcases all the Costa Brava has to offer.

Rates from €380 (£324) per night for a Superior Double Seaview Room, including breakfast. For further information, see the Hostal de La Gavina website.

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Barcelona is the undisputed jewel in the crown of the beautiful Catalan coast. With its unique architecture, gastronomy, vibrant nightlife and warm, sunny weather, the city’s global popularity is unsurprising.

There are currently 28 Michelin-star restaurants in Barcelona and the restaurant scene touches every cuisine imaginable. Yet the real charm and beauty of Barcelona’s food culture is to be found in fresh, local ingredients and informal dining. Locals typically enjoy a light snack in the sunshine with friends and a glass of vermouth, particularly in the long, summer evenings that stretch into the night.

Of course, where gastronomy flourishes, so does wine.

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It’s hard to believe it now, but once upon a time, Barcelona suffered from ‘Rioja-itis’ – it seemed that every bar and restaurant served Rioja, Rueda and little else. Now, Barcelona’s wine scene has something for everyone.

Catalonia’s distinct wine regions are well represented in Barcelona. The very best Catalan wines are to be found in Barcelona’s bars, shops and restaurants – including those produced in quantities too small for wider retail distribution.

There are plenty of bricks-and-mortar bottle shops in Barcelona. High summer temperatures, small homes and a lack of professional wine storage means large at-home wine collections are rare. Most neighbourhoods have good wine stores, or bodegas, where residents can find the perfect bottle of good wine to accompany the evening meal.

Wherever you are in Barcelona, it’s always worth exploring your local neighbourhood – chances are you’ll have a great local wine shop nearby.

Below are 10 of the best.

Bodega Maestrazgo

Bodega Maestrazgo is a third-generation family business, operating since 1952. Bordering the Born, Gotic and Eixample districts, it’s an authentic neighbourhood bodega complete with ‘vino a granel’, bulk wine served direct from large barrels. There’s an excellent selection of mostly Spanish wines. The bodega regularly organises social events and tastings too. You can drink your purchase inside the bodega for a small corkage fee.

El Petit Celler

Barcelona has a growing ex-pat community and the international wine scene is expanding with it. El Petit Celler stocks more than 250 wines from around the world. Sommelier and owner, Sebastián Lozano, routinely introduces wines from his own collection, selling bottles as special lots or serving by the glass via Coravin. El Petit Celler is one of the few places in Spain where you can purchase a €8 Catalan Garnatxa and also sample a glass of mature, grand cru Burgundy. There is also an online shop offering free shipping for orders over €80.

L’Ànima del Vi

L’Anima del Vi is the original mecca for natural wine lovers in Barcelona, run by the delightful Benoît Valée and Núria Rodríguez. The menu is short and charming, continually changing according to season and the availability of fresh produce. But the real beauty here is the wine list, including some of the most exclusive names in the natural wine world. An evening spent with a bottle of L’Anglore Tavel is no hardship after a long day on the beach!

La Vinícola

La Vinícola is a gem in the heart of the Eixample district. Owner Victor Jiménez focuses on Catalan wines, from both French and Spanish sides of the border. As a result, La Vinícola has the city’s best selection of wines from Roussillon. A beautiful, spacious store in Carrer Girona, this is a great spot to grab a bottle with a strong Catalan identity, with a particular focus on Empordà and the north of Spain.

Magaztem Escola

Magatzem Escola is one of the biggest and best – yet least-known – wine shops in Barcelona. It’s located next to Parc Ciutadella, behind the Born Cultural Centre. Hidden away on a quiet street, this vast store has deep cellars and an incredible selection of wines from across Spain. It also stocks spirits, with a strong selection of whiskies. The sheer range of wines, helpful staff and enomatic machines (serving wine by the glass from around 20 bottles at a time) make Magatzem Escola a must-visit if you’re in the neighbourhood. Wines can also be purchased online.

Món Vínic Bar de Vinos y Quesos

Previously known as Món Vínic store, this bar is a spinoff of the (sadly now closed) Món Vínic restaurant. Run by Delia Garcia and her team, it’s arguably the very best hybrid wine bar-shop in the city, with a stunning array of minimal-intervention wines from around the world. In-store wine purchases can be consumed in the wine (and raw-milk cheese) bar for a €10 corkage fee; wines can also be purchased online.

Outlet de Vinos

Located in the Eixample district, Vila Viniteca’s Outlet de Vinos is the place to find good-quality, ready-to-drink wines from older vintages at a good price. If you’re local to Barcelona, it’s worth following the Outlet on social media for offers on wines as they are released from the depths of Vila Viniteca’s cellars. This is the perfect place to find that special bottle.

Salut Wine Studio

Salut Wine Studio changed hands in 2023 and is now one of the most exciting venues in Barcelona. There’s a strong focus on local Catalan producers and it’s a great choice if you’re looking for a smartly curated selection that won’t overwhelm you. The wine tastings and especially the ‘wine casino’ nights are a lot of fun. Located right on the edge of the Born district, close to the Arc de Triomf.

Viblioteca

This modern, well-lit wine ‘library’ and bar in Gracia is the work of owner-sommelier and cheese lover, Yolanda Villegas. There’s an incredible selection of more than 50 cheeses to complement the well-stocked wine list, and a variety of other cold plates. Both wine and food can be ordered online for home delivery.

Vila Viniteca

Vila Viniteca is arguably the premier wine store in Barcelona; it’s also the largest wine distributor in the region. There are three Vila Viniteca stores in Barcelona, but the Born store is the flagship, with every fraction of wall space crammed with bottles from around the world. What you see in store is only a fraction of what’s available, too. It also has cavernous cellars, so it is always worth asking if you’re looking for something specific. Wines can also be purchased online.

When you’ve finished shopping, visit the store’s excellent wine bar, La Vinya del Senyor, just around the corner by the 14th-century Basilica di Santa Maria del Mar.

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Catalan grape growers praying for water have had their prayers answered, but not in the way they had hoped. A hailstorm that fell on 1 June in the Penedès region of Catalonia devastated an estimated 1,200 to 1,500 hectares of vines. Hardest-hit areas might see any chances of a 2024 harvest completely wiped out.

This is the latest in a series of unfortunate weather events for the Spanish region, which faced a bout of mildew in 2020 and has been under severe drought alert for much of 2024.

Catalan wine publication Vadevi published a map of the storm’s path drawn by local growers. It shows a vertical line from Sant Joan de Mediona to Cubelles, cutting straight through Vilafranca de Penedès. The worst-affected vineyards were in the towns of Santa Margarida i els Monjos, Castellet i la Gornal, Sant Martí Sarroca and Font-rubí.

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‘There was rain in the forecast that night, but instead of water it was just ice falling,’ said Ferrán Lacruz of Bodega Clandestina, located in Sant Martí Sarroca. The storm began around 8pm, with hail falling fast and furiously over the span of half an hour. Lacruz suffered some damage to his Macabeo/Macabeu crop, but his vines mostly escaped the full rage of the storm. Others were not so lucky.

‘Some vines just have the trunk left,’ said Josep Marrugat, head of viticulture for agricultural union Unió de Pagesos. Marrugat said there will be no harvest from the most severely damaged vines this year, and next year’s harvest might also be compromised. Speaking to local newspaper La Ciutat, he classified the situation as ‘very demoralising.’ Unió de Pagesos estimates a loss of about seven million kilos of grapes, or about €5m, for local grape growers.

Most of the vineyards damaged by hail produce grapes for DO Cava, exacerbating an already difficult year in which the regulatory council has had to take extraordinary measures to meet high global demand. Added to this is the uncertainty generated by the Catalan elections in May, in which no party was able to win a majority needed to form a government. Marrugat said that so far there was no one who could make the decision to send aid to growers with damaged vineyards.

Both Marrugat and Lacruz called for the support of the entire wine sector to stabilise prices and allow growers to make a living in the face of an increasingly chaotic climate. And also for a change of mindset. ‘It’s not only wineries who purchase grapes, but also consumers, who need to understand that prices need to change for the Penedès to have a future,’ said Lacruz, who does not produce wines under an appellation. ‘We need to make a change from volume to value, in order to be able to survive in years when we produce much less,’ he concluded.

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The grape vine is well adapted to dry climates. It has, though, its limits. These are site-dependent and depend on evapotranspiration rates, but in warm climates vines will struggle on less than 450mm a year. Around most of the wine-growing rim of the western Mediterranean (Spain, France, Italy, North Africa), the European Drought Observatory is recording soil-moisture deficits. In western Languedoc and Roussillon in southern France, and in northern Spain’s Catalunya, drought is reaching catastrophic levels. Reports from major producers show rainfall in these areas was often below 400mm in 2021 and 2022, and below 300mm in 2023. Plants die of thirst slowly: pine trees brown, in blotches; the landscape drains to grey. Even spring this year has struggled to find its flush of emerald.

‘Vines are dying,’ wrote an observing Justin Howard-Sneyd MW from his Domaine of the Bee vineyards in Roussillon in a 23 February 2024 email circular ominously titled ‘Sorry to be the bearer of sad news…’. ‘Roussillon is in crisis,’ confirms leading producer Jean-Marc Lafage, with more than 300ha in six different zones of French Catalonia. ‘Many vineyards in the area are already marginal, and this is pushing them over the edge. We’ve only had 300mm of rain in the last 18 months; winter was completely dry. We’ve never pruned the vineyard so fast – because there’s so little wood to prune.’

The situation in Catalunya is no better. As widely reported, Barcelona declared a drought emergency on 1 February 2024, as its reservoirs fell to just 16% of capacity. Spain as a whole is missing half its normal water reserves, and the Spanish drought is now among the world’s 10 most costly active climate disasters (per capita, according to a December 2023 report by Christian Aid). Pepe Raventós of Raventós i Blanc called 2023 ‘the harvest of suffering’. The weather station on his property recorded just 326mm of rain during the 2021 seasonal cycle, 366mm during 2022 and 287mm during the 2023 cycle. Since then, says Pepe, ‘only a couple of drizzles’. All of nature feels this. Production of Parellada and Macabeu fell by about 60% in 2023, though Xarel·lo copes better. At Can Sumoi, the Raventós farm in the hills, the roe deer were so thirsty they ate 90% of the vine shoots in April 2023. Miguel Torres wrote to me in August 2023 to point out that the three-year drought was seeing crop levels fall by up to 70% in parts of Penedès and Priorat.

Everyone is responding, of course, and notably with strategies which can broadly be grouped under the ‘regenerative viticulture’ banner. By the end of this year, Jean-Marc Lafage will be re-using all his winery water: a significant 18 million litres a year. He’s also doubled soil water-retention by using biochar, and achieved further benefits with low-density cover crops, minimum-strategy irrigation and contour plantings.

Torres, too, is working on similar schemes: changes to row orientations, increasing soil organic matter (a 1% increase helps keep an extra 240,000 litres of water per hectare in the soil), using pine mulch and changing rootstocks. ‘But you don’t get immediate results,’ says Miguel’s sister Mireia Torres, ‘so it isn’t helping us much with the immediate crisis.’

Another problem is the tussle between different agricultural sectors for existing supplies of irrigation water. Peach and apricot trees, for example, generally need more water than vines. Whose livelihood matters most?

Yes, an end to this drought will eventually come, just as it did with Australia’s 2001-2009 and 2017-2019 droughts, and California’s 2011-2017 and 2020-2022 droughts. (As I write in late February, folk are kayaking in Death Valley.) Europe is warming at twice the rate of other continents, though (WMO ‘State of the Climate in Europe 2022’, June 2023). It’s the drought-prone, land-encircled Mediterranean – with its proximity to the hyper-arid regions of North Africa – that will bear the brunt of this. Southern European wine-growers must adapt if they’re to survive.

In my glass this month

If any of the Torres range evokes the climate battle, it’s perhaps the 2020 Purgatori, a blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Cariñena from Costers del Segre (£18.95-£24.99 at Fareham Wine Cellar, Fine Wines Direct UK or Grand Cru Co). The name derives from the fact that this remote inland estate was founded by errant monks, banished from their mother house as a penance. It smells of crushed fig and strawberry, and tastes stony and lunging, wild yet vivid with life and sinewy force. The wine will endure – let’s hope the vines, too.

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A European Drought Observatory map shows the Spanish Mediterranean coast swathed in orange and red, marking severe drought brought on by – according to a study published in Nature Geoscience – the most severe dry spell the Iberian Peninsula has experienced in the last 1,200 years. The lack of rainfall is causing a never-before-seen crisis in the Penedès region, home to around 95% of DO Cava production. Last year, some growers lost nearly 70% of their harvests; this year more vines than ever risk dying of thirst.

State of emergency

In February, Catalonia declared a state of emergency affecting six million people in Barcelona and 201 surrounding towns. Everything from watering a garden to using beach showers has been severely restricted, with hefty fines for those who don’t comply. Even street cleaning in the Catalonian capital has been paired down to a minimum. The Catalonian government also announced plans to send desalinated water from Valencia to Barcelona as an interim solution.

The restrictions also mandate that water for crop irrigation be reduced by 80%, threatening winegrowers already struggling with the lack of rain. Speaking to Catalonian daily La Vanguardia, Jaume Domènech of the agricultural union Joves Agricultors i Ramaders de Catalunya (JARC) said that there is a danger that a third of the vines in Alt and Baix Penedès will not bud this year. In total, it’s estimated that the drought will reduce production by 60 million bottles.

Struggle to meet demand

One of Cava’s biggest brands is especially feeling the effects of the drought. Cava giant Freixenet says it has been forced to produce a declassified sparkling wine for markets in Germany, Switzerland, and Austria, as there are not enough DO Cava grapes to meet demand. ‘Freixenet Premium Sparkling Wine – Cuvée de España’ will be produced using the Charmat instead of the Traditional Method of sparkling production and will debut in August 2024. Josep Palau, production director at Freixenet, told business daily El Economista that ‘the sharp decrease in [grapes harvested] will have a massive impact on all markets in the world since this serious situation is not expected to be reversed in the short term.’

The current crisis comes after a record year for DO Cava, with nearly 252 million bottles sold – 2.7 million more than in 2022 – and increases in Cava sales both in the domestic and key international markets. Spain accounts for 79% of Cava sales by value. The primary export markets by volume are Germany, the United States, Belgium and the United Kingdom, which rounded out Cava exports in fourth place with 16.8 million bottles in 2023.

With more frequent droughts expected in the years to come, DO Cava will face the challenge of managing stocks to meet steadily increasing demand. Cava’s regulatory council is currently studying extraordinary measures that would allow wineries to keep reserves of base wine over three years, from which they could make new Cava in so-called ‘bad years’. These exemptions would only apply to Cava de Guarda, the category with the shortest ageing and the highest volume. DO Cava’s president, Javier Pagés, assured that any measures taken would not affect the premium Cava de Guarda Superior categories (Reserva, Gran Reserva and Paraje Calificado).

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Located in Spain’s far northeast, perched perfectly beside the Mediterranean sea, Catalonia is an autonomous region. The Catalans are proudly independent of their Spanish compatriots in both their language and culture. The region’s capital, Barcelona – one of the world’s truly great cities – is bursting with life, art and heritage.

These days, the region of Priorat in southern Catalonia is at the forefront of modern Spanish wine. Some of Spain’s most talented winemakers have flocked here to produce expressive wines of power and balance. Located southwest and inland of Barcelona, it’s a region of steep hills and sweeping vistas and, for those willing to make a go of it, a wonderful place to explore by bicycle.

Priorat sits like an off-centre bullseye in the middle of the DO Montsant, the region’s special designation resulting from its black slate soil, known as llicorella, which contrasts with the surrounding sedimentary and calcareous soils of Montsant. Many of its top vineyards are planted on steep, terraced hillsides.

The up-and-down roads

When cycling in and around Priorat, there are plenty of alternative routes to choose from, but you will be climbing (and, therefore, descending) no matter where you decide to go. It’s a great region for road cyclists to explore and is a hotbed of mountain biking. For wine enthusiasts without much cycling experience, e-bikes (see ‘nuts and bolts’ box, below) will make a Priorat trip a memorable experience without much training required.

As an experienced cyclist, I covered some of these routes in fairly compressed days. However, I suggest an itinerary that is approachable and allows for ample time to enjoy Priorat’s hospitality and vinous bounty. Coffee, pastries and long lunches are just some of the charms afforded by its small towns. Take full advantage. Most importantly, cyclists are responsible for their own safety. Given the region’s searing daytime heat and the realities of wine consumption and operating a bicycle, I strongly recommend riding early in the morning and spending the afternoons and evenings tasting wines in cellars and over dinner. A long day in the saddle makes for guilt-free indulgence afterwards. Cycling is a great way to take in the world’s wine regions, but remember that drinking (other than water and electrolytes) and cycling do not mix. Make smart choices and enjoy your time responsibly.

Upon arrival, I recommend checking in for an overnight stay at the gorgeous Hotel Mas La Boella, a renovated 12th-century farmhouse and now luxury boutique hotel just outside the city centre of Tarragona, on the coast. Enjoy a 10-course dinner here that showcases locally sourced ingredients with a pairing of regional wines. Eat well: you’ll need the fuel.

Catalonia cycling tour: The nuts and bolts

Bike hire

In Montbrió del Camp, you can hire a bike (and guide) from Montbike – a wonderful bike shop with possibly the best coffee in Catalonia. It has professional mechanics and guides who know the region intimately and can help you craft a cycling itinerary based on your interests and fitness. A road racing-style bike will be perfect for this trip and costs about €27 (£24) per day; if you need a boost on the climbs (recommended for most people), e-bikes are available for about €39 per day. The prices go down for longer rentals. Guides are available for €150 per half-day and €200 for full-day excursions for groups of up to 10.

Wine itinerary and transfer

While you always have the option to carry your own luggage and make your own arrangements, cycling luggage-free is obviously a much more pleasant option. The bespoke travel company Travel Priorat can arrange transfers, winery tours and accommodation for you – as well as pick-up from the airport or train station – making for a hassle-free experience. Prices are based on the package you choose.

Fitness

An above-average level of fitness is useful, as is familiarity with riding longer distances on a bike. Overall, the daily distances are manageable, and even with frequent stops, you should arrive each day with time to visit the local attractions. If you’re using e-bikes, it’s essential that you charge your batteries each evening.

Terrain

The landscape is hilly at nearly all times, so you will need fitness going up and concentration going down.

Catalonia cycling tour

Day 1

Montbrió del Camp to Siurana de Prades (65km from Montbrió, 40km from La Mussara)

Rise early and collect your bicycle in Montbrió del Camp (a short drive from Tarragona). From there, you can choose the hard or soft option, from Montbrió del Camp, through DO Tarragona, making a picturesque entry into Priorat.

For ambitious riders, cross the plains through almond and olive groves in the morning sun to the region’s most notable climb, the Colle de la Mussara. Its 13 switchbacks make for challenging but doable climbing. A short ride from the top of the Colle de la Mussara is the abandoned village of La Mussara. Vacated during the 1960s, there are a number of legends about its demise and supposed haunting; most realists associate it with the devastation caused to the surrounding vineyards and local economy by phylloxera. Those opting for the shorter route will need to arrange a transfer to La Mussara and can work with local bike shop Montbike to do so.

Most of the day’s climbing is behind you as you absorb the breathtaking views of the mountains that separate Priorat from Tarragona. The serrated edges of many of the Catalan pre-coastal mountain ranges seem to rise in every direction. The Serra de Montsant, which will be your constant companion for the next few days, guides you towards the heart of Priorat.

A stop in the quaint hill town of Prades is a must. Its charming red-sandstone construction dates to Moorish occupation. The church of Santa Maria Maggiore and surrounding hillsides were the subject of a painting by Joan Miró. It’s a great spot to stretch your legs, take in the main square for a coffee or opt for one of the locals’ favourite pastries from the Forn de Mont-Ral bakery on the edge of the old town.

From Prades, pick your way west through vineyard and orchard land, past the nearly deserted town of Albarca to a red-rocked canyon and the final – and certainly steep – climb of the day to the ancient stronghold of Siurana. You’ve put in a solid day of riding to finish at the top. The medieval town is perched above sheer 300m cliffs with views across Montsant and into Priorat. Lunch at the charming Restaurant Siurana offers rustic yet delicious local fare and a wonderful rosé made in-house.

Off the bike

Having made your way down from Siurana and further west to nearby Escaladei in Priorat, spend your afternoon tasting wine and visiting the ruins of the 12th-century Scala Dei monastery. It’s a must-do for lovers of Priorat wine. This is where it all started. Nearby, Priorat star winemaker Ricard Rofes of Cellers de Scala Dei produces some of the most sought-after wines in the region. Just across the river is La Conreria d’Scala Dei, whose Les Brugueres Blanc is one of the region’s rare and wonderful whites.

Stay overnight at the chic Terra Dominicata hotel and winery, which offers tours and wine tastings (€20, book ahead), as well as pairings of its wines at the on-site restaurant Mater Terrae.

Day 2

The villages of Priorat’s DOQ, Pt1 (26km)

The symbol for the Priorat DOQ (Denominació d’Origen Qualificada) is based on the insignia of the ancient Carthusian order of the Scala Dei, which translates as ‘ladder/stairway to God’. The symbol is a ladder of 12 rungs representing the 10 villages and two growing regions of the DOQ. The cycling loop described here, covered in one or two days, passes through many of those ‘rungs’ and encircles the entire region.

Starting promptly in the morning, pedal away from Terra Dominicata heading east, back towards Escaladei. Make a left off the main T-702 road onto the TV-7022. Instead of crossing the river into the village, you’ll continue on and it’s not long before you begin climbing towards La Morera de Montsant, with the beautiful mountains of Serra de Montsant guiding your way. Garnacha and Cariñena vines flank the road on both sides as the short and punchy climb delivers you to the quiet village of La Morera.

This marks the ride’s highest point of the day and sets you up for a beautiful winding descent among the vines in the shadow of the sheer, multi-coloured cliffs of the Serra de Montsant. The sun climbs above the Muntanyes de Prades to the east as you descend towards the valley below. It’s a breathtaking sight.

Heading east on the TV-7021, pass the outskirts of the village of Cornudella de Montsant, then head south on the C-242 road, which will take you alongside the Riu de Siurana river. In the early morning, you can feel the temperature drop a good 5° Corso – this gives you a sense of the microclimatic variation present in this dynamic wine-growing region.

At a fork in the road, take a right onto the TP-7402 and a bit of gentle climbing will take you above the village of Porrera, the destination for today (if you’re doing the two-day loop). As you descend towards Porrera, the village’s rooftops and church spire beckon. You pass the modern winery of Celler Marco Abella on your way into the centre. The village is bustling at midday during harvest season as local merchants set up for market in the small square.

Off the bike

Explore Porrera’s charming old town, snack at the local market or have a big Catalan lunch at the local favourite Restaurant La Cooperativa (+34 977 82 83 78), a family-owned bistro. Wineries abound in the hills around Porrera, including Marco Abella, the popular Ferrer Bobet or, just out of town, Mervm Priorati.

There are plenty of local B&B options in Porrera, such as Icona del Pont Vell or Ca Porrera. For upscale accommodation, you can transfer to Falset (a few km to the southwest) and the Hotel Lotus Priorat, or to Toroja del Priorat (about the same distance northwest) for the ORA Hotel.

Day 3

The villages of Priorat’s DOQ, Pt2 (35km)

The cool of the morning in Porrera, owing to the Riu de Cortiella flowing through the town centre, is a contrast to what will be today’s finish in some of the warmest parts of the Priorat DOQ. A gentle yet persistent climb out of the river valley from Porrera, via the T-740, warms you up quickly on the way to Falset. You climb up over the valley with breathtaking views, looking back northwards, of the valleys and mountains you’ve pedalled through.

Falset is a good stop for a coffee and is much bigger than the small villages you’ve come through thus far. Don’t linger too long over your espresso, however. The climb to Gratallops (northwest on the T-710) as the day warms is fully exposed to the sun’s rays and gives you a further appreciation of Priorat’s variety of microclimates.

Looping back towards Escaladei, the charming village of La Vilella Baixa – colloquially known as Priorat’s New York City thanks to its ancient, multi-storey construction – is also a great place to make a coffee stop. You can finish your day’s ride at the luxurious Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, north of Torroja del Priorat, where you can arrange a spa treatment or just lounge by the pool, as well as stay overnight.

Off the bike

In the afternoon, make a trip across to Poboleda (east of Escaladei) and enjoy a tasting or tour of Perinet or the celebrated Celler Mas Doix. In the old town, the locals’ favourite spot for lunch is Brots, with its creative preparations of local cuisine. Dinner at one of Mas d’en Bruno’s three restaurants, along with their Priorat wine tasting or master class, is a wonderful way to end your Priorat adventure.

How to get there

Arrive at Barcelona-El Prat airport. A train from central Barcelona to Tarragona takes 30-50 minutes and costs the equivalent of £7-£11. You can take a taxi direct from the airport for around £120, which is about a 90-minute drive. Travel Priorat can help you to make arrangements.

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Among Spain’s regions, with their unrivalled patchwork of terroirs and old vines, Catalonia is often seen as something of an underachiever: a region characterised by the wholesale dominance of big players – of Cava and cooperatives; by a lack of confidence in its winemaking heritage.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 14 exciting wines from Catalonian

Thankfully this is changing. Across the region – a triangle of territory in Spain’s far northeastern corner – wines of individuality, vitality and terroir expression are being made by winemakers with a newfound confidence in their own grape varieties and their own land. Typically these are young winemakers who have travelled widely, have studied together, and now work in a spirit of community to learn, improve and promote their region’s identity.

Refreshed tradition

Priorat has had its Burgundy-style quality pyramid since 2019 (applied retrospectively from the 2017 vintage), and at about the same time the Corpinnat designation for quality Penedès sparkling wine emerged as a breakaway group of producers from the wider Cava category.

And such moves can only be for the good across the region, as Catalonia seeks to prove that it can stand among the wine world’s elite. But arguably a more intriguing story is happening at ground level, so to speak, in the less celebrated regions and overlooked appellations. These are places where winemakers are not so rigidly tied to appellation rules and have the freedom, as well as easier access to old vines and prime terroirs, to create their own legend.

If there is a common stylistic theme for the winemakers profiled – in no particular order – in the pages that follow, it is perhaps a pursuit of freshness, whether from earlier picking, or from working with grapes from more elevated sites, or from harnessing Catalonia’s enviable Mediterranean climate.

What is certainly common to them all is a focus on the vineyard, through which these winemakers are seeking not only to produce the highest-quality wines, but also to revive their soils, enhance biodiversity and ensure that their vines remain healthy and productive in the long term.

A good proportion of these winemakers do not add sulphur dioxide to their wines. But they would be hesitant to be referred to as ‘natural winemakers’, with the potential stigma this term can bring with it. They would say that they are simply making wines in the traditional way, and this is because their vineyards allow them to.

How fortunate we are that Catalonia gives us such a cornucopia of true terroir wines to enjoy.

Dominik Huber & Tatjana Peceric

Montsant; Priorat

Terroir al Límit is now one of the consecrated wineries of Priorat, the precursor of a new style of wines from the region with a focus on finesse and fragrance, rather than heft and extract. With Terroir Sense Fronteres, formidable winemaking duo Dominik Huber and Tatjana Peceric (also owner and oenologist respectively of Terroir al Límit) shine a spotlight on Montsant.

High in the Montsant mountains and just across the DO border from their prized Manyes vineyard in Priorat, they are free of the more stringent regulatory constraints of the Priorat DO and can take their obsession with finesse to its limit. Think filigree wines with low alcohol and zero oak (in fact, since 2019 they have abandoned oak entirely, selling their handsome collection of Stockinger foudres and replacing them with unlined cement tanks) – these wines would not be possible just a short walk across the DO border.

2021 saw an important development for TSF. This marked the first vintage in which the pair worked exclusively with Garnacha (their Negre cuvée used to include Cariñena, while the Brisat cuvée had a small proportion of Macabeo). 2021 also saw the addition of a new single-vineyard TSF wine: Marcenca, a typically precise and fine-detailed Garnacha from a plot at 800m altitude, which will be available in the UK from late spring 2023.

Terroir Sense Fronteres, Vèrtebra de la Figuera, Montsant 2021

Francesc & Joan Frisach

Terra Alta

In the mountainous south of Catalonia, at the seaward end of the Ebro river, DO Terra Alta is often overlooked in the search for high-quality Spanish wines. Its reputation seems to be based on producers aiming for bold, rich wines – but these are beginning to seem old-hat. Celler Frisach represents something different: wines with freshness and charisma, focused on letting old vines and high-altitude terroir do the talking.

Brothers Francesc, 35, and Joan, 33, run the Frisach family winery in Corbera d’Ebre. Their father converted to organic farming about 30 years ago and began selling his grapes to winemakers in 2005. The following year, one buyer pulled out of buying his grapes – so the boys made wine from them.

They have become an inspiration to other young winemakers who have moved to the region to make low-intervention wines. Focusing on Garnacha Blanca (Terra Alta is home to as much as 50% of Spanish white Grenache, according to the regional DO), Garnacha Negra and Garnacha Peluda (‘hairy’), along with Cariñena, Frisach wines are made without sulphur additions. Reds are always fermented with stems, typically in a semi-carbonic style in cement tanks, with stainless steel tanks and 3,000-litre foudres also used for ageing.

In keeping with Terra Alta’s traditional classification of white wines, they produce light vinos de virgen and richer vinos brisado. The latter, skin-contact wines can be wonderfully aromatic, with complex flavours, and so particularly gastronomic.

Celler Frisach, Sang de Corb, Terra Alta 2019

Fredi Torres

Priorat; Montsant

‘I always put myself in problematic situations, so I have to find a solution to escape,’ says Fredi Torres, restless spirit, former star DJ and talented, instinctive multi-region winemaker.

Inspired by a bottle of 1998 Clos Mogador, in 2004 Galicia-born Torres moved from his home in Switzerland to Catalonia with the intention of discovering Priorat. Eventually he persuaded winemaker René Barbier to give him a job, making a home in the picturesque Priorat village of Gratallops while ‘hunting around like a dog for a bone’ for the right vineyards so he could start his own winemaking project.

When he started to make wines for himself in 2005, the Priorats that he knew were big, ‘bodybuilder’ wines – products of late picking, heavy extraction, long maceration and 100% new oak. Looking for acidity, crispness and freshness, he realised he needed to pick earlier and extract less. ‘Today, everyone does that,’ he says, ‘but back then it was something different.’

But Torres didn’t stop in Priorat. Collaborating with his longtime friend Marc Lecha, he established Lectores Vini and ventured into neighbouring Montsant. In his view, this now-burgeoning appellation, established in 2001, spent a long time trying to emulate its more prestigious neighbour. ‘It took some time to find itself,’ he says, ‘but eventually I started to see something I liked.’

That translates to red wines with lots of fruit and lots of pleasure – his Garnacha-based La Selección (2018, US$18 Dandelion Wine Brooklyn) being the prime example. @freditorres

Lectores Vini, Classic, Priorat 2019

Oriol Artigas

Alella

Just 20km east up the coast from Barcelona, Alella is a wine region whose historical importance far exceeds its modest size. With a little more than 220ha under vine (according to INCAVI, the Catalan Institute for Vines & Wines), established in 1953 it is among the oldest DOs in Spain. In Roman times its wines were cited by Pliny the Elder and Martial, and in the Middle Ages it supplied wines to the Crown of Aragón.

Oriol Artigas was born in the region, in Vilassar de Dalt. Since 2011, he has made it his mission to recover some of Alella’s ancient coastal vineyard sites to produce playful yet pure minimal- intervention wines influenced by the Mediterranean sea and the mountains.

About 70% of his domaine is planted with Pansà Blanca – the local name for Xarel.lo, massal selections of which have been central to Alella viticulture for centuries. His skin-contact La Bella cuvée, made from a single plot of Pansà Blanca on the region’s distinctive sauló white granitic sand, is emblematic.

A further 20% is planted with Garnacha Negra, the rest comprising a mix of different varieties – including a centenarian plot of 30 co-planted varieties which goes into his La Prats cuvée (£45 Dynamic Vines).

In 2020, a catastrophic attack of mildew wiped out about 90% of Artigas’ crop. Facing ruin, he was rescued in a way that reveals the spirit of collaboration and solidarity that seems to be inherent in the young winemakers of Catalonia. More than 20 grower/winemaker friends from across the region and beyond stepped up to offer Artigas grapes to produce a special ‘SOS’ series of 2020 cuvées (£24-£32 Dynamic Vines, Natty Boy Wines). This concerted act of charity saved the vintage and enabled Artigas to continue in his mission to preserve and celebrate the winemaking heritage of Alella. @oriol.artigas

Oriol Artigas, La Bella, Alella 2019

Leo & Roc Gramona

Alt Penedès

Cousins Leo and Roc Gramona are scions of the Gramona family – to many the ne plus ultra of Cava winemaking in Alt Penedès since the middle of the 19th century. They launched their L’Enclòs de Peralba project in 2018. Already they represent a clear demonstration of the potential for fine terroir whites from the higher reaches of Penedès.

‘Basically what we’re trying to do is recover the style of wines which existed here before the explosion of sparkling and commercial wines in our region,’ Leo explains, ‘using those ancient local grapes which have been neglected because they are not so productive.’

Roc is something of a pruning guru. Along with his father Xavier, he launched the influential Acadèmia de Poda – the first Spanish school of pruning – which teaches a new generation of Spanish grower-winemakers ‘respectful pruning’ – a traditional, pre-trellising pruning method that promotes longevity and disease resistance in the vines.

Leo and Roc have sought out old, north-orientated vineyards from which to produce their wines. They make two wines using Xarel.lo (Leo says Xarel.lo has the best capacity for ageing) along with two single-site Garnacha Blancas, one single-site Macabeo and two Malvasia de Sitges, both entry-level still and pét-nat styles. The latter variety, which was popular before the Cava boom, majors in aromatics and acidity. Leo casts it as the future ‘Riesling of Penedès’. From late 2023, expect to see a top tier of wines from the vineyard plots the cousins regard as ‘grands crus’. @enclosdeperalba

L’Enclòs de Peralba, Betzinera 2020

Alfredo Arribas

Montsant

Neither an emerging winemaker nor a young blood, Alfredo Arribas is nevertheless a searching soul, and one in a constant pursuit of elegance and complexity in his wines.

A celebrated Barcelona architect with some family history of winemaking in Catalonia, Arribas created his Clos del Portal winery back in 2001 and built an enviable reputation based on the refinement of his Portal del Priorat wines.

His desire to reach new heights – both figuratively and literally – took him to higher elevation in Montsant. His SiurAlta wines, part of his minimal-intervention Vins Nus (‘naked wines’) range, are produced from vineyards at 700m-800m in the dramatic Cornudella de Montsant area (also favoured by Terroir al Límit winemaker Tatjana Peceric for her excellent Coreografia wines) and the Montsant natural park.

While Montsant is invariably eclipsed by Priorat – or dismissed for making flabby, fruity wines that don’t quite hit the sensorial heights of its neighbour – Arribas’ SiurAlta wines provide a clear indication that this is an appellation to watch closely. These wines are laser-focused, with taut acid and electric energy.

Vins Nus, SiurAlta Orange, Montsant 2021

Joan Rubió

Penedès

In the plains of Penedès, Xarel.lo grows in abundance, mostly for use in industrial Cava. But what Joan Rubió is doing here is very different. He makes natural wines of amazing precision, with a commitment to restoring the heritage of his family while also asserting his own winemaking identity.

The former head of oenology at Recaredo, Rubió is an authority on biodynamic farming and during his 14 years at Recaredo he helped to convert this prestigious Cava house’s entire 50ha estate to biodynamics.

Like many other Penedès wine-growing families, the Rubiós stopped making wine in the 1980s when the Cava behemoths monopolised the local industry. Joan took over management of the family’s vines in his 20s, but while he continued to sell grapes to the big Cava houses, he always held an ambition to make wine for himself. In 2015, Rubió left Recaredo to open his Tiques winery and create the wines he always dreamed of making.

Rubió’s family has always grown Xarel.lo and Macabeo, and these varieties dominate his output, in both varietal whites (his flagship Tiques, as well as Essencial and Obstinat for Xarel.lo; Joanots for Macabeo) and the blend Nituix (2018, £25 Raw Wine) with varying levels of skin maceration. He also makes two outstanding Ancestral pét-nats, made from Xarel.lo and the red Monastrell.

Tiques, Ancestral Xarel·lo, Penedès 2019

Josep & Joan Anguera

Montsant

With its diversity of Mediterranean-influenced rocky terroirs, one might expect Catalonia to be the home of fine Garnacha. Strange, then, that despite there being a little more than 4,000ha of the variety in the region [plus some 1,900ha of white Garnacha Blanca, according to INCAVI, the Catalan Institute for Vines & Wines] – with huge clonal diversity – world-beating examples remain somewhat thin on the ground.

The likes of Alvaro Palacios (who now uses as much as 90% of Garnacha in his iconic L’Ermita), Scala Dei and, latterly, the Terroir al Límit offshoot Terroir Sense Fronteres have drawn welcome attention to the limitless potential of Catalan versions of the grape, but Joan d’Anguera is arguably not credited enough. Over the past decade, brothers Josep and Joan Anguera Pons, the seventh generation of the Angueras to make wines in Darmós, have dramatically rethought their family winemaking operation. In the vineyard, they gained Demeter biodynamic certification, increased plantings of Garnacha and Cariñena and began training their vines using lower-yielding gobelet pruning. In the cellar, they began to favour whole-bunch fermentations and, thanks to their work in the vineyard, were able to reduce use of sulphur.

The fruits of their tireless labour are wines that have reached an unprecedented level of refinement – and Garnachas, specifically, which now draw

comparisons to some of the best Grenache producers in the world.

Joan d’Anguera, Altaroses 2020

Joan Ramón Escoda

Conca de Barberà

While not exactly a new kid on the block, Joan Ramón Escoda is certainly young at heart and deserves a prominent mention in an article on exciting Catalan producers, owing to the novelty and personality of his wines.

Based in Prenafeta in DO Conca de Barberà, Escoda is a Catalonian natural wine pioneer (along with the likes of Partida Creus, nearer the coast in Baix Penedès), and has been making highly individual wines without sulphur since 2005. He and his friend Laureano Serres founded PVN (Asociación de Productores de Vinos Naturales), the first natural wine association in Spain. Together they also host H2O Vegetal, a natural wine fair which sees natural winemakers and enthusiasts from around the world flock eagerly to this part of Catalonia every year.

A small, easy-to-overlook appellation sandwiched between Penedès, Costers del Segre and Tarragona, Conca de Barberà is most often associated with the Trepat variety, but at Escoda-Sanahuja, Mario Rovira with wife Maria the wines are based on a rich mix of local and international varieties: Garnacha Negra and Blanco combine with Sumoll, Cariñena, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, even Pinot Noir (his La Llopetera is arguably the best Pinot in Catalonia, and therefore Spain). And while purists might question the presence of Chenin and Pinot in Mediterranean Spain, when your wines are as good as this, all tends to be forgiven.

Escoda-Sanahuja, Els Bassots, Conca de Barberà 2021

Mario Rovira

Alella

Barcelona native Mario Rovira cut his teeth working with Jean-Claude Berrouet at Château La Fleur-Pétrus in Pomerol, Bordeaux, also gaining broad experience in New Zealand, California and Jerez, before returning in 2011 to start his Akilia project in Bierzo, northwestern Spain. Three years later, he began making unfortified Palomino, working with grapes from specific types of albariza soil in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, before turning his attention to his homeland. In 2018, Rovira leased a 2.5ha plot of Pansà Blanca (Xarel.lo), Macabeo and Syrah vines just 100m from the Mediterranean coast in Tiana, DO Alella. For Rovira there is a striking similarity between Tiana and Sanlúcar de Barrameda – the proximity to the sea, the white soil, the fine, saline expression of the wines. ‘The soil in Tiana is beautiful for this kind of wine,’ he says.

Rovira also reserves praise for Alella’s Pansà Blanca – its salinity, acidity and its ability to achieve phenolic ripeness with low alcohol (he often picks at 10 degrees). His La Flamenca cuvée represents the bulk of his production here. The grapes are picked early, the juice is macerated with skins for two weeks and the wine is aged in a combination of stainless steel tank, ceramic egg and a manzanilla barrel previously used for his Palomino. The result is a wine driven by tension and minerality – something of a signature for Rovira, wherever the wine is made.

Mario Rovira, La Flamenca, Alella 2019

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Beth Willard, Diana Rollan and David Williams tasted 97 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 43 Highly recommended.

Priorat red wines panel tasting scores

97 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 43

Recommended 39

Commended 6

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Priorat reds, including single varietal or blended wines

A few years ago, I found myself with a free afternoon in the Priorat region of Catalonia in northeast Spain and set off on the back roads to lose myself (and all sense of direction) in its rugged hills. Through the rolled-down windows, the breeze carried the wonderful scents of wild flowers and sotobosque (garrigue) undergrowth and, while the summer sun was harsh, at times blinding, it gradually gave way to the softer hues of a Mediterranean evening: glowing, shimmering, a final warm embrace before nightfall.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Priorat red wines panel tasting

This Decanter tasting of Priorat wines brought to mind that moment in time and took the judging panel on a journey through the region’s varied landscapes, its bright and bold styles as well as its more subtle nuances and its unique Catalan character.

The panel had expectations of big and bold wines with lots of oak and polish – but it was the regional and authentic personality of the wines that shone.

Balance and restraint were at the forefront, even in wines with unavoidably high alcohol (it is Priorat, after all). Many of the wines showed off the region’s famous llicorella (slate) soils, offering up flinty freshness without the make-up of excessive work in the cellar. David Williams felt that ‘the winemaking was much less ambitious and ‘more about the vineyards’. Diana Rollan was impressed by the overall style of the wines and, as she pointed out, the best offered ‘balanced oak, without being so much about the oak itself’.

The panel agreed that Cariñena was the star of the tasting. As the second most-planted grape in the region [with some 540ha compared with Garnacha’s 745ha or so, according to doqpriorat.org], it is unsurprising that the variety featured in a lot of the wines, but it was really exciting to see it dominate the highest-rated; in fact, only three of the top 11 wines (94 points or more) did not include the variety in the blend.

See all 97 wines from the panel tasting

Williams was ‘blown away by Cariñena’ and went on to explain that ‘even Garnacha-based wines with just a bit of Cariñena offered more muscle and grit’.

If the panel had any criticism of the tasting, it was the generally high pricing: the highest-scored wines were the most expensive and, as Williams observed, quality was certainly mapped to cost. The judges felt the prices of these outstanding wines were justified, but it was a shame not to have tasted more wines below the £30 level. Rollan raised concerns about the accessibility of Priorat, noting: ‘Big appellations in other parts of the world offer lower-priced wines as a way into the region – it would be good to see more value.’

It was pleasing to have a selection of vintages to sample, ranging from 2011 to 2021 – and across younger to older vintages, the tasting was of a wonderfully consistent and high quality. Even wines from more complicated vintages such as 2017 were generally good. The panel was impressed with the vibrancy and youthfulness of wines, even after 10 years of ageing, reminding us of the great collectibility and cellaring potential of the region’s wines.

This tasting proved that it is time to take a new trip through the unparalleled terroirs of this vibrant region, to discover new wines from established producers as well as some deserving fresh faces.

Priorat reds panel tasting scores

The wines below all scored 92 points or above

The judges

Beth Willard is involved in sourcing wines for both the on- and off-trade in the UK, with a particular focus on Spain and Eastern Europe. Formerly buying manager at Direct Wines, she is a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain, and a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino.

Diana Rollan is group head of beverage for D&D London restaurants group. A DWWA judge for Spain, she formerly managed training and wine buying at Hakkasan Group as its UK head of wine.

David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish. He is also wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant.

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A judge ordered a cumulative bail of €65 million (£56m) be set for six defendants in the case, and the court is asking for up to €25m in damages – based on information that the fraudulent scheme helped the company to generate more than €14m in net profits between 2019 and 2021 alone.

The case started in late 2021 when news broke that three Denominations of Origin (DOs) in the Catalunya region – those representing Montsant, Priorat, and Terra Alta – had filed legal proceedings against the wine company, Reserva de la Tierra, for alleged fraudulent labelling practices.

Hundreds of spindles holding tens of thousands of forged bottle labels were discovered at premises in the town of Les Borges del Camp (Tarragona) by the Catalan police, els Mossos de’Esquadra.

Based on the find, the DOs of Tarragona and Catalunya then joined in the prosecution as well.

According to reports in August 2022, private equity group Sherpa Capital acquired Reserva de la Tierra’s assets, with the company having previously filed for bankruptcy. The new company was named Terra Cellars.

During a recent court hearing, prosecutors said the fraud was carried out via a complex scheme of certifying smaller amounts of wine legally within the DOs and then increasing the total quantity with large amounts of additional, uncertified wines through various subsidiary companies.

Police found that a firm in southern Spain printed more than 81 million false labels.

Additionally, some wines were labelled with names that had never been registered with the DOs they were purported to have been certified under. The wines found in the discovery process are listed below, but the court judgment said there could be others.

False age statements, such as Gran Reserva, were also used in some instances, alongside misleading statements about oak barrel ageing.

In one year, investigators found the claimed production of ‘DOQ Priorat’ wines was 44% of the region’s entire output. In another year, 12 million bottles had been labelled as ‘DO Terra Alta’, which is five million more than the region’s 50 wineries produce collectively.

All five DOs affected told Decanter that the scale of the case was unprecedented, and they’ve pursued it to the maximum extent possible to make sure that consumers continue to have faith in their respective institutions.

According to reports, after acquiring Reserva de la Tierra assets in August, Sherpa Capital said it would install a new management team at the company and invest to grow the business.

Commenting on the latest developments, Vicenç Ferré, president of DO Tarragona, told Decanter, ‘All the previous registered brands have been nullified and will not be permitted for registration. We have received a request from the new company, Terra Cellars, to register new wines and we’re currently taking them into consideration.’

When asked about Reserva de la Tierra, Xavier Pié, the president of DO Catalunya said, ‘Well, that’s a company that doesn’t exist anymore. There’s a new company now and hopefully a new path will be taken. It’s easy to see the value in desiring a wine to be under a denomination of origin as it gives value to the brand which we need to stand behind.’ He also confirmed that Terra Cellars has made a request to register several new wines under the DO.

Local wine website, Vinassos has also found that despite the pending judgment, the company continues to sell wines branded ‘Elegido’, albeit without any DO certification.

Wine brands identified in the case, for which no certification exists

DO Terra Alta: ‘Escal Roja’, ‘Heredad Cheroga’, ‘Bota Real Gran Reserva’, ‘Valentía Simba Lion Crianza’, ‘Heredad Valentía’, ‘Barón de Gerard’, ‘Vega del Origon’, ‘Bota Real Crianza’, ‘Bota Real Reserva’, ‘Bota Real Gran Reserva’, ‘Vilamar Reserva’, ‘Vilamar Gran Reserva’.

DO Catalunya: ‘Nerea Crianza’, ‘Nerea Reserva’.

Wine brands identified with falsified ageing statements

‘La Baturrica’ as Gran Reserva in DO Tarragona, ‘Vespral’ as Gran Reserva and Reserva in DO Terra Alta, ‘Viña Carles’ as Crianza in DOQ Priorat, ‘Castillo de las Veras’ as Gran Reserva in DO Tarragona, as well as ‘Puerta de Plata Reserva’, ‘Clos del Solisticio’ as Gran Reserva and Reserva, ‘Armónico’ as Selección, Grande Selección, and Gran Reserva in DO Terra Alta.

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The awards were created to recognise those from various sectors who have worked to reduce CO2 emissions and promote sustainability. This year’s winners were: viticulturist Tomàs Peig from the Terra Alta region, French glass maker Verallia, Córdoba-based transport company Juan Ruiz, the town of Caldes de Montbui in the Barcelona province, and Spanish environmental journalist José Luis Gallego.

The five individuals and entities that were awarded represent a broad range of initiatives in line with the Torres family’s holistic approach to tackling climate change. As a company with wineries in multiple regions on three continents, it’s an issue Torres has taken seriously and for the last 15 years it’s been a core aspect of the business. To date, Torres has invested €16m in the pursuit of lowering its overall carbon footprint as well as being less harmful to the environments where it produces wine.

When compared to the start of its green initiative in 2008, Torres has been able to reduce the CO2 emissions of the company by 35% and the current goal is a 60% reduction by 2030.

During a speech outlining all the work done to date, Miguel A. Torres stated, ‘We must get actively involved in the climate emergency and be ready to change things: we must stop depending on fossil fuels, use renewable energy, eat more vegetarian dishes, and heavily reduce the use of plastics.’

Upon accepting their award, each of the recipients gave a short speech that picked up on various points of what Torres has laid out. However, it was the mayor of Caldes de Montbui, Isidre Pineda i Moncusí (whose council was awarded for implementing a strong renewable energy policy), who gave the most impassioned speech, stating: ‘It’s important to always keep in mind that this work is not only doable but necessary because it’s costing all of us.’

In the decade and a half since Torres began its work, a great many of the initiatives have been newsworthy such as: CO2 capture in the wineries as well as planting vineyards at higher elevations, reviving ancient, nearly-forgotten grape varieties that look to be better adapted to future viticulture, researching how to better manage vineyards in rising temperatures, changing vehicles to fully electric (Torres was the first winery to start using an electric tractor in Europe in 2020), and very importantly, the installation of sufficient solar panels to produce 50% of all electricity needs at the flagship winery.

While each initiative on its own would be commendable, the awards illustrated the entire scope of the various efforts by the company, showing a measured approach to true sustainability. This was emphasised from the start of the awards as Torres had displayed a gallery around the presentation salon, outlining its work which Miguel A. Torres explained in more detail during the presentation. As the company produces millions of bottles annually, it was able to see that small changes could make big impacts but that there isn’t any one aspect that can be pulled out individually to fully solve the issue of sustainability. It’s a puzzle in which every piece counts.

Torres has also looked outward, beyond its own wineries and vineyards, with a plan to plant one million new trees on a 5,000ha estate called ‘Los Cóndores’ in Patagonian Chile. In addition to reclaiming a forest that had been stripped during times of settlers, this has the additional benefit of offsetting carbon output from the winery.

In 2019 Torres founded International Wineries for Climate Action in collaboration with Jackson Family Wines of California. The goal was to work with other producers (now at 37 members in nine countries) to achieve long-term sustainability in wine production and, at a minimum, be carbon neutral by 2050.

It’s clear to see that given sustained efforts throughout the 21st century, Torres isn’t just trying to ‘greenwash’ the business. Miguel A. Torres has repeatedly stated over the years that: ‘Climate change for viticulture is worse than phylloxera’ and the company realises that if the wine industry doesn’t evolve to meet climate change head on, it will cease to exist.

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Last year, Cláudio Martins and Pedro Antunes caused a stir in the Portuguese wine trade when they unveiled a €1,000 talha wine from Alentejo.

It was the most expensive non-fortified wine to emerge from Portugal’s shores, retailing at almost double the price of Douro icon Casa Ferreirinha Barca Velha.

That wine was named Jupiter. Now Martins and Antunes have followed it up with Uranus, a red produced in Moreira del Montsant in the Catalan region of Priorat.

It comprises 85% Garnacha Negra Peluda, 10% Garnacha Blanca and 5% Cariñena from the 2021 harvest, grown on red clay soils 743m above sea level.

Dominik Huber of Terroir al Límit was tasked with creating Uranus. He used a cement egg to bring ‘refinement and elegance’ to the wine during the eight-month ageing process. It was bottled at 12.5% abv.

The tasting notes are light on flavour and heavy on poetry: ‘The lithe aromas and flavours move like a dancer across the nose and palate from deep red and blue fruit to stone to spice with a consistent velvety texture, yet that seems almost secondary to the nearly transcendental balance and inner quiet.’

Hubik said that Uranus has ‘extraordinary ageing capacity’. He hopes it will ‘put Priorat and all future producers in the spotlight of new consumers, the millennials, who want to buy high-quality products at a higher price because they know that these wines, in particular, will give them pleasure, profitability, prestige and status’.

There are just 500 bottles of Uranus available, along with some large formats.

The plan is to eventually release nine wines – one for each planet in the solar system. Future releases will come from Bordeaux, Champagne, Tuscany, Napa Valley, Mosel, Georgia and finally another from Portugal. Only 500 to 1,000 bottles from each region will be produced.

‘These nine wines will quickly become some of the most sought-after wines over the coming decades, and understandably, their value will increase exponentially over that period,’ said Martins. ‘They are a real collector’s item, and we want them in the hands of connoisseurs who appreciate their special character.’

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While taller overall vines do exist in regions such as Galicia with their pergola training method, the roots of any vine usually top out at 37cm. It’s at this top point where the Vitis vinifera shoot is grafted in and continues to grow, giving us such grapes as Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. This is opposed to the rootstocks which are composed of various crosses of vines such as Vitis rupestris which aren’t used for wine production but are resistant to the root louse, phylloxera.

This new tall-trunked vineyard of 12.5ha contains 40,000 Xarel·lo vines and is located in the village of Sant Sebastià dels Gorgs, halfway between Vilafranca del Penedès and Sant Sadurní. These are the two most prominent municipalities in DO Penedès for the production of still wines as well as the sparkling wines of DO Cava or Corpinnat.

Nursery viticulture technician, Enric Regull told Decanter that the inspiration came when they were visiting vineyards up in Germany where the practice is more common. Regull says that this additional height offers countless advantages such as, ‘…better resistance to drought, faster forming of the vines in trellises, keeping fruit away from animals that would eat it, not needing trunk protectors when cleaning up vegetative growth and eliminating excess secondary shoots.’

Vines grafted on to and then trained from the 80cm trunks are also easier for people to work given their added height and they can also be machine harvested in an easier, more consistent fashion.

While they’re seeing the first fruit from these vines in 2022, they will only start harvesting grapes for wine production in 2024, but they’re so encouraged by the results to date that they’ll be planting 17,000 more vines in the same manner next year. From there, they hope to implement these changes in other vineyards if the results continue to be positive.

The work of Casa Jaume Sabaté runs in parallel to studies that were conducted 15 years ago by Familia Torres. To see how vine height affected maturation and other aspects of viticulture, they did control vine plantings at the standard 60cm in height, others to what was then, a non-standard 90cm and then traditional bush vine plantings.

While these vines were planted with a standard rootstock height of 37cm as opposed to the 80cm of this new vineyard, they found that height did indeed make a difference with the 90cm vines pushing out maturation by four days over those at 60cm. Interestingly, the bush vines matured even one day longer than the 90cm vines, but unfortunately bush vines incur a great deal more work given their innate structure lower to the ground and with more branches. They also can’t be machine harvested which is a facet to viticulture that’s becoming more and more necessary due to labour shortages as well as the need to harvest at night to preserve acidity in the grapes.

But the Torres study reinforces what Casa Jaume Sabaté has found in that with a changing climate along with droughts becoming more commonplace, it seems that raising the level of vines planted in trellises is but one way to counter these challenges. Clearly, even with raising the vines combined with other methods such as heavy canopy control, shade nets and having lower planting density, there are limits in terms of pushing out maturation and if nothing else changes, viticulture could very well not be possible in many of the areas it currently takes place.

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Just three Priorat wines qualified for the new top ‘grand cru’ classification of Gran Vinya Classificada (GVC) when it was launched in 2019. They were Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita, Vall-Llach Mas de la Rosa and Mas Doix Tossal d’en Bou.

Earlier this year I visited Mas Doix to take part in the winery’s most comprehensive verticals of Tossal d’en Bou and Coma de Cases, which will become a Vinya Classificada.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 13 Mas Doix wines

The GVC are the pinnacle of a Burgundian-style quality pyramid, built upon villages and vineyard parcels. Alvaro Palacios has been active in driving the new classification through – and there are a number of wineries in the queue to qualify. The Antología Miguel Torres collection for instance also has a Mas de la Rosa parcel, with a different aspect. It means that in due course there will be two GVCs named Mas de la Rosa.

Tossal d’en Bou

Mas Doix’s Tossal d’en Bou first appeared in the market in 2009, under the name 1902 Centenary Cariñena. The vineyard was planted in 1902 on the steep slatey slopes known in the region as ‘costers’ by the local Subirats family. Mas Doix had a long-term contract with this family to work the vineyard and harvest the grapes, and finally purchased it from them.

With the arrival of GVC, the next 2019 release will be renamed after the vineyard parcel, and relaunched in a Burgundy bottle, rather than the traditional claret shape.

At this point I must make a confession. Mas Doix Centenary Carignan 1902 is one of my top wines of all time. I first encountered it at one of the wonderful Espai Priorat events in the ruins of the monastery of Scala Dei, where the DOCa’s producers come together to show their wines. It’s the wine that opened my eyes to Cariñena, with its unparalleled blend of elegance counterpointed by rusticity. Mas Doix tames the rusticity brilliantly, and it’s a variety that flourishes in Priorat.

I’m not blind to its failings: in many regions of the world Cariñena can be hard to love. Nevertheless thanks to 1902 it has become a favourite variety that I will seek out. Discovering 1902 almost supplanted my affection for Garnacha in Priorat, which up until then had always been my preferred variety. It’s what prompted me to write an article on my Top 20 Cariñenas.

In the vineyard

My love of 1902 led me to the Tossal d’en Bou vineyard. Reader, I have scrambled up those steep costers quite a few times. Each time I have tumbled back down, somehow managing not to break or uproot the ancient vines by grabbing them to slow my slide down the slate slopes.

The nimble person who always makes sure I don’t break either my neck, or his precious vines, is the genial former economist Valentí Llagostera (pronounced Yagostera). He will be familiar to any visitors to the Decanter Fine Wine Encounters in London, or the recent New York Encounter, talking and tasting the wines.

As I slither down the slope Valentí points out that growing indigenous varieties on costers as bush vines – or as vines up a single stake – rather than on trellises is the best way to work in Priorat. It may seem counterintuitive but is essential for drainage and avoiding erosion.

The vineyard is located in Poboleda, one of Priorat’s 12 villages, named in a Dits del Terra document that identifies the denomination’s individual villages and parcels. Is it possible to identify these villages in a blind tasting of their wines, as one might in Burgundy? Not yet perhaps, for all 12, but some are becoming ever more distinctive.

Poboleda itself lies to the northeast of the denomination, in the Siurana Valley at the foot of Montsant mountain. The microclimate here is cooler, with more rain, and a longer growing cycle. All of this contributes to a different profile – fresher, with more pronounced acidity – and one that’s certainly clearly identifiable in the Mas Doix wines. Winemaker Sergi Batet comments that Cariñena has a pH typically of 3.3 to 3.5, and Garnacha potentially even lower at 3.2.

The winery

Batet hosted the tasting, together with Valentí and his brother Ramón Llagostera. The selection of wines went back to 2005. We had been discussing this event since 2019, but it had been impossible to meet. It was held in the impressive Mas Doix slate and glass winery, designed by Valentí and Ramón’s architect brother Xavier Llagostera.

It’s a transformation for those who work there. The former winery, located at the entrance to the village of Poboleda, had a charming tasting room but the workspace itself was tiny. Now there’s a chance to experiment with fermentation and ageing in different materials and sizes.

The winery was carved out of the slate, which in turn was used in the construction. As one might expect, the design is built on sustainable principles, including elements such as photovoltaic panels and rainwater collection. It is gloriously sited with a tasting room overlooking Poboleda village.

The transformation at Mas Doix was enabled by taking on a new partner. The Llagosteras and the Doix are cousins. The original Mas Doix was founded by them in 1998, reviving a family wine-growing tradition that dates back to the 19th century.

In 2019 the Llagosteras acquired the Doix share, and went into a 50:50 partnership with Cliff Lede, owner of the eponymous winery in Stag’s Leap, Napa Valley. By chance Lede’s CEO was in Europe, looking for a possible acquisition for the business. She was considering Italy, but called in at Doix, because she liked their Salanques red. Her search stopped there.

A retrospective

The new winery launched in 2019. After the months of Covid isolation the tasting was a great opportunity to look back on a remarkable achievement in little more than 20 years. Reflecting on the launch of 1902, Valentí recalls: ‘It arrived like a bomb in the market. There was certainly a before and an after.’

In 2009, the leading Spanish wine guide, Peñín Guide, gave the new wine the ‘Revelation of the Year’ award. In 2019 the Peñín Guide voted the 2014 vintage ‘Best red wine in Spain’ with 99 points.

‘In 2004 nobody made Cariñena. Nobody believed in it,’ says Valentí. From 2004 they started bottling it. At this vertical tasting I was lucky enough to taste Mas Doix’s trial bottlings of 2005 and 2006 which were never commercialised. I quickly understood how early the Mas Doix Cariñena revealed its real pedigree. While Garnacha dominated in Priorat, along with international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, Mas Doix pointed a way for the unloved Cariñena.

The wine has evolved over the years. Valentí explains: ‘In 2012 we recognised how special Tossal was. We decided to use the higher areas only for 1902.’ The wine from this parcel makes the GVC.

The winemaking has also changed subtly – but noticeably. From the 2021 vintage part of the Tossal d’en Bou was fermented in two open 400-litre French oak barrels, and part in stainless steel. The malolactic was in stainless steel. Since 2018 the wood ageing has been reduced and now stands at 14 months.

Coma de Cases

The soon-to-be Vinya Classificada (the papers have been submitted to the authorities), which will be released with the 2020 vintage, is Coma de Cases. It’s currently known as 1903 Centenary Garnacha.

I must admit that I wasn’t disposed to love 1903 when it first appeared in its 2015 vintage. How could it supplant my affection for 1902? Yet 1903 is distinct; based on very old Garnacha vines, with tiny production, on a windy west-facing site. The Garnacha itself is a particular clone, with small berries and thin skins.

From 2015 to 2017 the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations were in stainless steel, with ageing in new French oak. From 2018, fermentation began in 400-litre open French oak barrels, with the malolactic in stainless steel. The ageing changed to second-use French oak.

The result is a remarkable finesse, especially with the toning down of new oak from 2018. For the moment, I’m still loyal to the Cariñena. As Valentí put it, while tasting the 2017 1902: ‘Cariñena knows much better how to live here in Priorat.’ At Mas Doix they describe the ‘verticality’ of Cariñena against the ‘breadth’ of Garnacha. It’s your choice.

See tasting notes and scores for 13 Mas Doix wines

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From the beaches and harbour of the waterfront, up through the medieval maze of the Gothic quarter and into open, airy neighbourhoods like the Eixample, Barcelona presents many faces to those who come to explore its riches. At once cosmopolitan, yet still fiercely proud of its local heritage, its attractions are many and varied, such as the gems of Catalan modernism, the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló and La Palau de la Música, or the antique charms of the old city. Go shopping in the markets or on the Passeig de Gràcia, or take the cable car up to the top of Montjuïc Hill to the Spanish village and magic fountains and enjoy the views.

Famous holiday festivals include Sant Jordi, for the patron saint of Catalunya (April 23rd), a local equivalent of Saint Valentine’s day, marked with gifts of roses and books, Sant Joan (June 23rd), a fiery summer solstice festival with bonfires and fireworks and all-night sweet cocas and Cava and La Mercè (September 23rd-26th), featuring giants and fireworks and music and dance for the patron saint of the city. Also worth noting is that each Barrio has its own Festa Major (street festival), the most well-known being Gràcia during August. At most fiestas you will find the Castellers building human towers that can reach as many as eight to ten ‘storeys’ high.

There’s plenty here to please the palate too, with world-class restaurants alongside classic tapas and wine bars. Traditional local dishes include the ubiquitous pa amb tomàquet (bread with tomato) and patatas bravas, both local staples (not just for tourists), and calçots, a seasonal type of green spring onion that is grilled over charcoal and served with Romesco sauce in late winter and early spring. And of course there is Cava and vermouth at every turn.

Cava country

With 11 Denominations of Origin (DO) in Catalunya, encompassing roughly 10,000 winegrowers and 850 wine companies, the industry takes quality seriously with the domestic market rising and, although the market is also opening up internationally, for the most part these wines remain ‘close to home’. For our purposes we are going to focus on the winemaking regions closest to Barcelona: DO Alella and DO Penedès, which will also include DO Cava and the EU collective brand Corpinnat.

It’s a bit complicated because while DO Cava is still primarily in Catalunya, it is now also found in other regions throughout Spain. This extension led to Corpinnat being established in 2018, which includes 11 wineries and which, so far, remains exclusively in Penedès.

Exploring the wineries

With four generations devoted to winemaking and creating premium Cavas, Juvé & Camps continues to be one of the most revered cellars in the region. The first Juvé brand sparkling wine appeared in 1921, years after the underground installations were first dug out under the family’s ancestral home in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia by Antoni Juvé. It was at this time that Joan Juvé, the son of Antoni, and his wife Teresa Camps took charge of the vineyards. Now with CEO fourth generation Meritxell Juvé at the helm the estate boasts various plots and family houses throughout the region, each with a distinct personality. Fully-customised private tours of the winery and vineyards are available upon request.

In the centre of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, an hour from Barcelona, you find Bodegas Mestres. The Mestres family, first documented in the village before 1312 as vineyard owners and wine merchants, has been linked to the wine world for 30 generations. Fast forward to Christmas 1928 for the first bottles of Cava Mestres, produced by Josep Mestres Manobens from the 1925 harvest. Since then the family has specialised in the production of long-aged sparkling wines using the traditional method with natural cork for the second fermentation and has reached outstanding levels of quality recognised throughout Penedès and beyond. Fourth generation (making sparkling wine) David Aura Font takes care of winery visits, which are available upon request.

One of 11 wineries that make up the recently created Penedès-based EU collective brand Corpinnat (2018), Recaredo has been producing terroir-focused wines from its own vineyards since 1924. Now in its third generation, the Mata family, always a stickler for tradition, is further refining its practice to include long-aged brut nature sparkling wines and incorporating biodynamic agricultural techniques that capture the essence of the region. Visits are available by appointment and can also include an olive oil tasting.

Family-run Alta Alella was founded in 1991 by Josep Maria Pujol-Busquets and Cristina Guillén in the middle of the Serralada De Marina Natural Park, with their first wines appearing on the market in 2001. It still remains very much a family affair with Josep Maria and daughter Mireia in charge of wine development. Certified organic from the beginning, they offer three ranges including still wines, Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje, as well as a low intervention natural ancestral wine selection. Pioneers in DO Alella enotourism, they offer an exciting range of experiences including transfer from Barcelona by bike, classic sidecar motorcycle, boat or helicopter and there are also monthly activities at the winery.

The original winery of Alella Vinicola was founded as a cooperative in 1906 and was responsible for the creation of the emblematic Marfil brand in 1920. Bought by the Garcia family in 1998, the winery is now run by brothers Samuel and Xavier, producing organic wines mostly from the indigenous Pansa Blanca and Grenache grapes, including high quality DO Alella sparkling wines. The splendid art nouveau winery, designed by Gaudí disciple Jeroni Martorell, has its own restaurant and is located just 15 minutes from Barcelona. Winery and vineyard visits are available by appointment.

My perfect day in Barcelona

Morning

Waking up at The Corner Hotel in the Eixample, where everything is ‘Just Around The Corner’, you can opt for the hotel breakfast or go old school and pop over to La Bodegueta Provença for traditional tostadas and a cosy local vibe. From there, walk or take the metro to Plaça de Catalunya, where you can catch the train to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. Head to Juvé & Camps (see above) for an unforgettable experience.

Afternoon

Since inaugurating their winery visits in 2021, the enthusiastic J&C events team has embraced enotourism with the same passion and philosophy that are the hallmarks of this two-century old family-run winery. Visits are all private and by appointment only and there are several options to choose from, including customised itineraries. Our custom visit included a tour and tasting at the spectacular winery located in the original family home. We were then whisked off to the vineyards in vintage open-top Citroën Méharis to try more Cavas while overlooking the vines, followed by an al fresco lunch at the Casa Vella family home. A wonderful afternoon that truly exceeded all expectations.

Evening

Back in Barcelona, and after a quick freshen up at the hotel, it’s time for a casual dinner at Gresca, which yes, is also just around the corner. Chef Rafa Peña landed on the Barcelona scene in 2006 astounding the city with his Michelin star-worthy dishes at affordable prices. Happy to report that little has changed other than an expansion into the space next door, which is now a long bar area with an open kitchen to complement the original dining room. The out of this world Gilda and the Ibérico and Comté ‘bikini’ are two excellent ways to get started, but you simply cannot go wrong here.

A Cava or cocktail sundowner at the Corner House rooftop bar finishes off a perfect day that will leave you feeling you did so much more than the hours allowed.

Your Barcelona address book: Where to stay, eat and shop

Hotels

H10 Metropolitan

At the very hub of the city on Plaça de Catalunya the chic and modern Metropolitan offers a range of elegant rooms from basic to grand deluxe, with breakfast and cocktail bars, and a rooftop terrace and swimming pool.

Seventy

This trendsetting hotel on the edge of the Eixample is well placed for exploring the neighbourhood and beyond. You’ll find comfortable rooms and spacious common areas including restaurants, a wellness spa, a rooftop terrace and swimming pool and a grand lobby with open views to the city.

Chic&Basic Born Boutique

Smart and stylish hotel combining old and new inside an old palace. Situated in the vibrant El Born neighbourhood between the Ciutadella Park and the Gothic quarter, putting the essential Barcelona right outside your front door.

Restaurants

Disfrutar

The experimental tasting menus developed by alumni of El Bulli emphasise Mediterranean seafood in an airy, upscale dining room inspired by Barcelona modernism and Catalan fishing villages.

Al Kostat

The more informal sister restaurant to Jordi Vilà’s Michelin-starred Alkimia. The typically Catalan à la carte menu, featuring both tapas and full plates for sharing, highlights quality local products.

Quimet & Quimet

If you haven’t been to Q&Q have you really been to Barcelona? Many would say no, and this charming family-run spot is worth seeking out for lunch or early evening snacks. With over 500 wine references and friendly service, it’s truly a local treasure.

Markets & Shops

Sant Antoni Market

Built in 1879 on the site of an already-existing open air market, the distinctive cast iron structure of the Sant Antoni Market is one of the most notable in Barcelona. Inside the main building you can still find all the typical produce of a Spanish market but from 2007 the market underwent extensive reforms. The addition of external marquee galleries provided a permanent home for houseware, textiles, collectibles and the famous second hand book stalls, and it’s now one of the busiest and most popular markets in the city.

Vila Viniteca

Vila Viniteca, celebrating its 90 year anniversary this year, is an El Born institution comprising the original gourmet food shop (Carrer dels Agullers 7), an impressive wine store across the street and their renowned wine bar, La Vinya del Senyor, around the corner in Plaça de Santa Marina.

How to get to Barcelona

There are frequent flights to Barcelona from various destinations in Europe. Regular train and bus services are available for visiting the vineyards in Penedès and Alella.

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In November of 2021, Spain’s DO Penedès announced a massive overhaul of their bylaws with many changes aimed at re-orienting the region via a “10-year plan”. One of the key aspects was a new classification system for the estates of the region called, “Vi de Mas”, the first five of which have just been certified.

While most wine regions looking to implement a system use the so-called “Burgundian Pyramid” as a structure, Penedès took a different approach that merged some of the Burgundian system along with some of the Bordeaux system, wherein it is an estate that holds the classification.

They will not be forming a village level nor single vineyard classification such as what Priorat, Rioja, and others in Spain have done. Instead, the only individual classification is, “Vi de Mas” which in Catalan means, “wine of the farm estate”.

They are using the established masias which were historic farming estates across all of Catalunya and for that matter, Spain. At the centre of a masia is the mas, an old, grand house with the farmlands of the masia around. In France, this would be known as a “domaine”. For a wine to classify for one of these levels, the house with its farmlands has to have existed prior to the arrival of phylloxera, before the end of the 19th century.

Within this classification, there is “Vi de Mas” for any wine produced within the classified estate (up to five references in total) and then “Gran Vi de Mas” which can only apply to a wine that has seen consistent international recognition for at least a decade. These are wines to be considered akin to Bordeaux’s concept of the “Grand Vin”.

While wines can be made from any of the permitted varieties within the DO, vines must be a minimum of 10 years old for Vi de Mas wines and 25 years old for Gran Vi de Mas, with harvest yields 15% less than DO maximums. Gran Vi de Mas wines must be aged a minimum of eight months for the whites and 20 months for the reds.

Wineries and wines with this certification

Viladellops

Gran Vi de Mas “Parany Carinyena”

Vi de Mas “Turó de les Abelles Garnatxa Negra”

Vi de Mas “Finca Viladellops Xarel·lo 100%”

Vi de Mas “Finca Viladellops Selecció Garnatxa Negra”

Mas Rodó

Gran Vi de Mas “Mas Rodó Macabeu”

Vi de Mas “Mas Rodó Montonega”

Vi de Mas “Mas Rodó Cabernet Sauvignon”

Vi de Mas “Mas Rodó Reserva de la Propietat”

Sumarroca

Gran Vi de Mas “Bòria”

Vi de Mas “Marger”

Alsina & Sardà

Gran Vi de Mas “Finca la Boltana Xarel·lo”

Huguet de Can Feixes

Vi de Mas “Can Feixes Blanc Tradició”

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The focus is upon a new series of back label additions which will be:

• Viticultor – Elaborador: viticulturist/winemaker aka vigneron
• Embotellador – Elaborador: bottler
• Comercialitzadora: commercial wine agent aka negociant

Work on these changes began at their 15th anniversary back in 2016 and has been ongoing since. Despite this length of time, part of their introduction has clearly been spurned by the recent wine fraud case wherein hundreds of thousands of their (and other locals DO’s) back labels were allegedly forged by the distribution company, Reserva de la Tierra.

While the investigation is still ongoing in the case, DO Montsant has lost little time in pushing this new agenda forward. In talking with Decanter, DO president, Pilar Just said: ‘This is part of a larger action plan for us to ensure guarantees for the consumer and this is but the first step of many to come.’

Just stated that they will also be updating their back labels to include special tamper-proof materials with an added hologram, as well as forthcoming certifications for “old vines” and eventually a form of localised subzones. She emphasised, ‘The core of everything we’re doing here is to ensure that everything stated on the labels of our wines is correct, verifiable, and supports traceability.’

The 2022 harvest will mark the 21st for this DO which was created in 2001. Often thought of as the “little sibling” or “budget” version of the older DOQ Priorat which it borders, in less than a quarter century, Montsant has established itself as a quality region within Spain with its own profile based primarily upon the grape varieties of Grenache and Carignan. Laying claim to 61 certified wineries now, they’ve managed to maintain and slowly grow their vineyard area over two decades of existence.

In turn, the establishment of the brand DO Montsant has given greater value to the grapes and thus helped them to maintain a stable level of viticulturists. This is in opposition to many other regions in Spain where an aging agricultural sector is retiring and either abandoning vineyards or selling them to large enterprises, leading to industry consolidation.

These new efforts come at a time when various regulatory bodies in Spain are increasing efforts to both ensure the veracity of their wines as well as to give more granular definition. The fraud case of Reserva de la Tierra appeared to serve as impetus to increase their efforts, but many regional bodies, say the same as DO Montsant in that these are ongoing changes that are designed to meet the demands of the modern consumer who wants greater trust in the wines they’re drinking.

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‘Por fin se ha hecho justicia.’ (Finally, justice has been served)

This strongly-worded statement was made by the Denomination of Origin Utiel-Requena in Spain’s Autonomous Region of Valencia as part of a press announcement in July. It refers to a Spanish Supreme Court ruling that was fully ratified at the end of September, closing a decade-long conflict between the region’s three DOs that pitted Valencia against Utiel-Requena and Alicante. The latter two had demanded that grapes from within their respective zones could not be used in DO Valencia wines.

Historically an agreement had existed between Valencia and Utiel-Requena since 1995 and with Alicante since 2001, wherein producers in DO Valencia were allowed to purchase a portion of their respective Bobal and Monastrell grapes (varieties each region is well known for) for use in DO Valencia wines.

While it was legally stated in the pliego de condiciones (bylaws) of DO Valencia, it was somewhat precarious as Spanish DOs rarely ever overlap with one another. But as it was officially approved at the time by the regional government as well as the governing boards of all three DOs, it had been a functional system until now.

In a press release in August 2017, DO Valencia stated that ‘…if a DO did not commercialise 50% of its production, it would have to disappear,’ as per Spanish law to justify their case that the absorption of excess grapes into DO Valencia from these other two DOs was allowing them to continue existing. There was pretext for this as at the time of the 1995 arrangement, Utiel-Requena was reportedly only using 20% of its total production and was therefore at risk of being de-qualified.

There was however a change of wording to the pliego of Valencia in 2011 to say that any grape variety from Utiel-Requena and Alicante (not just Bobal and Monastrell) could be used by DO Valencia producers. This has apparently caused an uptick in production of wine sourced from these municipalities outside DO Valencia in Utiel-Requena and Alicante, nine from the former and a smattering of others from the latter.

The managing director of DO Alicante, Eladio Martín Aniorre told Decanter, ‘At stake was the fact that with these changes we were seeing more and more wines from Alicante being produced under DO Valencia with each passing year, starting in 2011.’

Utiel-Requena, being the most affected as Valencia producers could take in grapes from all the municipalities within their DO, led the charge in 2016 to reverse these changes, signing a manifesto ‘in defence of the heritage of the territory.’ A spokesperson told Decanter that, ‘here in Utiel-Requena we have nothing in common with the rest of the DO Valencia and we’re a separate region, thus why we need to protect our point of origin under European law.’

Aniorre also claims that, ‘these changes are causing a great deal of confusion for the end consumer, which is why they need to be stopped.’

A spokesperson for DO Valencia told Decanter that all the changes were done in a legal manner and everything had been based upon long standing agreements between the three DOs.

There is, of course, a question of context as these agreements originated over two decades ago and there have since been several changes to DO administrations, increased sales, and greater regional identity for both Utiel-Requena and Alicante which have changed their overall production situations considerably.

In the July 2021 ruling by the Spanish Supreme Court, DO Valencia is now legally required to remove any mention of the affected municipalities in Utiel-Requena and Alicante as they are both external to the defined DO Valencia territory. It was also stated that the process by which they were added was not carried out in the correct manner of passing through all levels of EU approval and thus held no legal weight.

On the 8th of October, 2021, the Catalan police, els Mossos d’Esquadra entered the premises of the wine company, Reserva de la Tierra SL in les Borges del Camp, Catalunya, Spain. They were acting upon a combined suit filed jointly by three Denominations of Origin: Priorat, Montsant, and Terra Alta as ‘irregularities’ had been found in specific lines of wines by stating they were certified by these DOs.

On the 18th of October the DOs released a public statement regarding the investigation in that they have filed the suit in order to: protect wine quality, monitor compliance of both growers and producers, and to protect their individual, legally-registered brands.

In a follow up interview with DO Montsant president, Pilar Just, she told Decanter that they had initially detected irregularities in wines dating back to March, 2020. DO seal checks and laboratory analysis of the wines that showed they didn’t pass the requirements for the DO and thus could never have been certified.

‘While fraud is fraud, the greatest impact of this revelation is for our viticulturists given that as a region, we’ve managed to increase the average price per kilo from 0.50€ to 1€ in recent years. This undermines all of that as there is no traceability as to the source of grapes.’

In talking with DO Terra Alta president, Joan Arrufí, he reiterated what Just stated, ‘We detected some irregularities as far back as 2019 but it was in talking with the other DOs that we realised the scope of the situation. We’ve found this company’s improperly certified wines as far away as the United States and China and this disregard for legality has to stop.’

Salus Àlvarez, president of the DOQ Priorat said, ‘We found some irregularities as well going back to 2019 via a study we were conducting of our wines in the local Catalan market. That’s when we came across these wines that were incorrectly labelled.

‘Thanks to a very fluid relationship with DO Montsant, we realised we had the same problem and decided to act together with DO Terra Alta, giving a great deal more force in this than any single DO on its own.’

The website for company, reservadelatierra.com, presents many photos of winemaking and vineyards, but a reverse image search reveals that these have all been appropriated from other websites or stock photography sources. They are in fact not at all representative of the company itself which exists as a very large warehouse with constant lorry traffic alongside the highway west of the city of Reus.

When visiting the premises, a sign outside noted that their shop is ‘Closed for vacations’ currently but Decanter was able to speak with a spokesperson who confirmed the entry of the Mossos on the 8th of October and their following investigation.

‘We’re working with the authorities in the investigation and look forward to returning to our normal state of operations to serve our clients.’ Beyond this statement, they declined to comment as to their overall production or any additional specifics about the wines in question.

The DOs stated that they could not comment as to which brands of Reserva de la Tierra were in question nor as to the quantity of wines that have been produced due to the pending investigation.

On 21 October, the Catalan police released a preliminary list of the wines charged with being labeled falsely:

HEREDAD MESTRAL 2017 (DOQ Priorat)

HEREDAD MESTRAL CIERVO 2017 (DOQ Priorat)

VEGA ESCAL 2016, 2017 (DOQ. Priorat)

CLOS ROJA 2017 (DOQ Priorat)

VINYA CARLES 2017 (DOQ Priorat)

HEREDAD CENTUM 2017 (DO Montsant)

VESPRAL GRAN RESERVA 2014 (DO Terra Alta)

VESPRAL RESERVA 2016, 2017 (DO Terra Alta)

VESPRAL CRIANZA 2016, 2017, 2018 (DO Terra Alta)

ARMONICO SELECCIÓN 2017, 2018 (DO Terra Alta)

ARMONICO GRAN SELECCIÓN 2016, 2017 (DO Terra Alta)

VESPRAL VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA 2018 (DO Terra Alta)

GRAFICO GRAN SELECCIÓN 2018 (DO Terra Alta)

GRAFICO SELECCIÓN 2019 (DO Terra Alta)

Pallets of these additional wines have been held by the police for further investigation as well:

SLATES OF BONMONT 2017 (DOQ Priorat)

HEREDAD CENTUM 2019 (DO Montsant)

CARLES HEREDAD 2019 (DO Montsant)

ESCAL ROJA GRAN RESERVA 2015 (DO Terra Alta)

HEREDAD CHEROGA 2018 (DO Terra Alta)

VESPRAL GRAN RESERVA 2015 (DO Terra Alta)

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Jefford on Monday: To cru or not to cru

Exclusive review of the new Priorat classification plus 12 wines worth seeking out

Spain’s DOQ Priorat is the Burgundy of Iberia. Audacious? Not in the least.

Like Burgundy, it’s a wine region founded by monks, holds centuries of history, and has long been ‘vineyard driven’ in terms of winemaking that focuses on singular wines as opposed to far-reaching brands. While its heritage may be shorter, those who manage to craft wines from this unforgiving land have been quick to make up for lost time.

Scroll down to see 12 Priorat wines worth seeking out

As a result, the Priorat regulatory council has broken down almost 18,000ha of land into smaller zones called paratges (‘pa-RAH-jas’), from which they have built a pyramidal vineyard classification.

The list was formally released in spring 2019 and now, two years later, the first wines classified at the various levels have been announced, including three from the top gran vinya classificada category.

Building a better pyramid

Work on this new zoning started more than 15 years ago when the vi de vila village classification was formalised, which operates in the same way as village appellations in France.

From there, it took years to officially delineate the paratges of historical zones within the villages. No small feat, given that it required surveying as well as poring over cartographic maps and American Air Force photos from the 1940s. As it happened, these photos also helped to establish the new ‘velles vinyes’ classification for vineyards with vines at least 75 years old.

Eventually, borders came to form the paratges that now function in the same manner as lieux-dits in Burgundy, except that the resulting wines are called vi de paratge (VdP) at this level of the pyramid.

From there, a premier-cru level was created called vinya classificada (VC), and then what amounts to the grand cru level: gran vinya classificada (GVC). If starting from zero, a winery needs to commence at the VdP level, then arrive at VC and finally GVC – a process of 10 years.

Also, to reach these two top-tiers, the vines must be of a minimum age and the composition of the vineyard needs to be majority Grenache and/or Carignan for the red wines, arriving at 90% of the total with GVC.

The first three GVC wines received classifications earlier because the producers could prove a history of meeting the requirements and, while the first vintage allowed for certification was 2017, most are starting with 2019 or 2020.

DOQ Priorat: defining the classification

Vi de DOQ Priorat (DOQ Priorat regional wine)

• Wines produced from permitted grapes

• Harvest yields: reds 6,000kg/ha, whites 8,000kg/ha

Vi de Vila (village wine)

• Grapes must come from within one of 12 delimited villages

• Harvest yields: reds 5,000kg/ha, whites 7,000kg/ha

• At least 90% of vines at least 10 years old, remaining 10% at least five years old

• Minimum 60% of Grenache and/or Carignan in blend

Vi de Paratge (paratge wine)

• Grapes must come from within one of 459 delimited paratge zones

• Harvest yields: reds 4,000kg/ha, whites 6,000kg/ha

• At least 90% of vines at least 15 years old, remaining 10% at least five years old

• Minimum 60% Grenache and/or Carignan in red wines, no requirement for white wines

Vinya Classificada (classified vineyard)

• Grapes must come from within one of 459 delimited paratge zones and comprise a single, contiguous vineyard

• Harvest yields: reds 4,000kg/ha, whites 6,000kg/ha

• At least 80% of vines at least 20 years old, remaining 20% at least five years old

• Minimum 60% Grenache and/or Carignan in red wines, no requirement for white wines

• Minimum five years of traceability and notability*

Gran Vinya Classificada (grand classified vineyard)

• Grapes must come from within one of 459 delimited paratge zones and comprise a single, contiguous vineyard

• Harvest yields: reds 3,000kg/ha, whites 4,000kg/ha

• At least 80% of vines at least 35 years old, remaining can be up to 10% at least 20 years old and 10% at least 10 years old

• Minimum 90% Grenache and/or Carignan in red wines, no requirement for white wines

• Minimum five additional years beyond VC of traceability and notability*

*Notability’ implies recognition of high quality, both nationally and internationally, by known critics and publications

Pros and cons

As soon as the new classification system was announced, some in the wine trade called it an added layer of complication. In truth, it was very much needed – not only in Priorat but throughout Spain.

As Alvaro Palacios told me: ‘When I was growing up in Alfaro [Rioja], everyone knew very well which villages had better grapes and which vineyards made the better wines. The problem was that no one had the ability to project that, to sell it to an outside market, and so great amounts of excellent wines were sold off in bulk, often to France to be bottled there.’

It’s no mystery to anyone locally that the vineyards now certified as GVC are indeed some of the best in Priorat. For these to have been replanted after phylloxera and then continually cultivated through 90 dark years of Spanish history (World War I, the Spanish Civil War, and then large-scale depopulation of rural areas), speaks to their ability to produce quality grapes.

One problem that might confuse with the new system is that within each paratge there are three classification levels: VdP, VC and GVC. Whatever the level, they all have the same name. Even at this early stage there are two wines with the same paratge name of Mas de la Rosa (one by Vall Llach being a GVC, one by Torres which is a VdP). The only difference is that at the GVC top level, it must be a single vineyard with much older vines and have at least five years of VC classification followed by another five to reach GVC.

The trailblazers

For decades, Spain was noted for good-value wines more than anything else. The concept of a single wine costing €50 (£42) let alone €250 (£211) in the case of Mas de la Rosa or €1,000 (£847) in the case of L’Ermita raises more than a few eyebrows.

So, how do you prepare a wine-drinking public for what’s being created in Priorat?

If you are Palacios, your whole winemaking career has led to this moment. So, it’s no surprise that he has been a strong proponent of bringing in this classification. He has long been the embodiment of winemaking passion and charm, as well as a dynamic changemaker in Spain. It’s no wonder he was the recipient of the Decanter Hall of Fame award for 2015.

Palacios has long positioned his L’Ermita as one of the grandest crus in Spain – and rightfully so. There was little question that this vineyard would achieve the top GVC level, since its resulting wine is one that has been lauded by critics for decades.

By contrast, the path for Vall Llach’s Mas de la Rosa as well as Mas Doix’s 1902 Tossal d’en Bou has been rather different. These were both used in blends for their producers’ earlier flagship wines. Year after year, it was clear that these old vineyards (Mas de la Rosa was planted in 1906 and Tossal d’en Bou in 1903) were producing an exceedingly high level of finesse that needed bottling on their own; this happened in 2009-2010.

How have both wineries been preparing their customers for this change? For Valentí Llagostera of Mas Doix, it’s largely been about following the lead of Palacios: ‘He forged this path and he’s planted the seed, so we look a great deal to what he’s doing. His work has helped to ready people for this.’

Albert Costa of Vall Llach adds: ‘We have work to do. I mean, vi de vila was introduced in 2009 and it’s still not fully understood abroad, so we have our work cut out. But gran vinya classificada can be easily described as “grand cru” and hopefully that will make communication easier to have a clearly defined model.’

Excellence needs company

With three wines in the top GVC tier, there has understandably been plenty of momentum for others to enter. As seen in the corresponding scores, these are some of the top wines not just in Priorat, but in all of Spain. So how do producers maintain this level of excellence?

I know of at least five other producers who want their vineyards to enter the GVC level. Once they have all the requirements, the DOQ council is proposing a tasting panel for final admittance with the potential for a regular certification process on all classified vineyards of VC and GVC.

Recent issues in France – with Châteaux Cheval Blanc and Ausone walking away from their top-tiered ranking in the St-Emilion classification – might make one wonder how practical a regular tasting panel will be, given that it’s failed in most regions that try to implement it. Clearly, there must be a regulatory method for accepting new vineyards as the system is being built from scratch.

While there is rightly much focus on the GVC level of Priorat, it will be interesting to see if the VC will behave more like a premier cru in the future, in terms of finding high-quality wines at a lower price (as is shown beautifully in a region such as Chablis). Or will it just be a stepping stone to GVC?

While there are only three now, there will soon be more wines arriving to VC level, including Mas Doix’s ‘1903’ wine that will be renamed after the paratge of Comadecases.

Currently, oenophiles should pay most attention to VdP. More than 30 wines will be coming to market shortly, and while they can be a blend of any vineyards within the paratge at this certification level, producers have mostly made single-vineyard wines. Many wineries are happy to make use of this as it’s more tightly defined than the vi de vila classification.

With its jagged, undulating hills and terrifyingly abrupt landscape, Priorat exudes vineyard singularity in the same way as Burgundy, except on a sun-drenched, Iberian scale. It’s clear why the region has led the way in Spain when it comes to building the first version of a Spanish classification pyramid. Classifying and recognising the best vineyard sites now creates an institutional pinnacle, allowing winemakers to further build upon the wines they’ve managed to squeeze from these stones.

Hudin’s pick of Priorat wines: 12 to try

Wines are listed in score order by classification

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Priorat reds: Panel tasting results

Building a Priorat legacy: Interview with Scala Dei’s Ricard Rofes

Priorat in-depth and great reds to try

Vineyard visits with Ricard Rofes guarantee car sickness and excitement in equal measure. Car sickness, because we lurch almost vertically up unmade roads, sweeping walkers out of our path and cornering sheer drops. And excitement because of the heart- stopping views.

The reason for the drama is that we are in Priorat. Rofes’ lofty vineyards, belonging to Priorat’s oldest winery, overlook the gloriously isolated valley.

Scroll down for Scala Dei tasting notes and scores

Priorat was reborn in the 1990s when five winemakers together made international headlines. Rofes remembers: ‘I was 21 when I made my first wine, and in those days I wanted to be a famous winemaker.

Priorat was all about René [Barbier], Alvaro [Palacios], Carles Pastrana, Daphne Glorian and Josep Lluís Pérez. Then when I came to Scala Dei, “click!”, I realised the protagonist is not the person, but the place. The weight of tradition, that legacy, can’t be modified by someone who is spending 10 or 20 years there. There have been many people before you, and there will be many after you. The best you can do is to leave it as good or better than you found it.’ He stresses: ‘The wines of Ricard Rofes don’t exist. It’s the wine made by the land and the grapes.’

Rofes has become one of the leaders in Spain’s Garnacha revival, producing some exceptional wines. ‘The irony is that in my first job at Masroig all the wines were based on Cariñena. It’s much warmer in Montsant, and Cariñena has more acidity, tension and a lower pH. I didn’t like Garnacha at all.’

On his second day at Scala Dei, owner Manuel Peyra took him into the vineyards. ‘They were Garnacha, Garnacha, Garnacha, Garnacha. “Madre mía,” I thought. “What have I come to?” After visiting 28 fincas, I asked: “Señor Peyra, where is the Cariñena?” To my alarm, he replied: “We’ve never had it.” I was at a loss. But when the fruit came into the winery that autumn, I didn’t recognise it as Garnacha. It had freshness, fruit, tension. From that moment I became a Garnachista.’ The key to its freshness was, of course, the altitude (vines planted up to 800m), and the combination of soils, particularly red clay and calcareous clay. Scala Dei is thoroughly Priorat, but its high vineyards have nothing to do with the llicorella slate for which Priorat is known.

Ricard Rofes at a glance

Born 31 October 1974, Tarragona, Spain

Education Degree in Winemaking & Wine Marketing, Jaume Ciurana School of Oenology, Falset; degree in specialist winemaking studies, Rovira i Virgili University, Tarragona

Career 1997: Celler El Masroig cooperative in Montsant, winemaker 2007: first vintage at Cellers de Scala Dei; 2008: first vintage of RAR; 2014: first vintage at Abadía de Poblet

Family Married to oenologist Magda Pellicer; two children Guillem (10) and Bernat (8)

Hobbies Mountain-biking, reading, eating out

Drawing from the past

The winery opens onto a village square, just below the former Carthusian monastery of Scala Dei, ‘the stairway to heaven’. It sits beneath the impressive range of Montsant, ‘the holy mountain’.

On my first trip to Priorat I remember Alvaro Palacios talking about the mystical quality of Priorat. It seemed theatrical, but at the same time true. Rofes agrees: ‘I’m not in the least superstitious, but there is something profound about the place. It’s what brought the monks here in 1194, and without them we would not have had the vine and the knowledge of how to cultivate it.’

After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1835, four families bought the estate. They were interrupted by phylloxera and the civil war, but in 1974 re-founded Cellers de Scala Dei. Rofes has old documents. ‘There is one from a monk, written in 1624. It says: “Not all plants are good, nor do they ripen when grown in cold land. As for red varieties, only Grenache and Mataró are recommended.” So we know Garnacha was in the vineyards even then. But we can’t be sure what Mataró was. It could be Monastrell/Mourvèdre. But we have no proof.’

He started to research Scala Dei’s history. ‘We tasted the wines from the 1970s and found they were more alive than later vintages. Obviously in recent times they were using Cabernet rather than Garnacha, because it was fashionable, not because it suited the site. We looked at the winemaking. They did not have the equipment [for destemming] so it was all 100% stems, fermented in concrete, with no temperature control. I’m imitating these old ways – for instance, letting fermentation temperatures go up and down, as they would have done then. The first time I tried it, I didn’t know how it would turn out.’

Rofes has been fortunate with his colleagues, who have encouraged his experimentation. He has had the freedom to produce his own wine. RAR currently comes from his own 4ha in Priorat, though he is soon to include wine from his family vineyards in DO Montsant, which he and his wife have restored and replanted. ‘The company president, Carles Peyra, said: “Your project doesn’t bother me, because I know that anything you learn you’ll apply to Scala Dei.”’

Arthur O’Connor, former director of winemaking for the Codorníu Group, which became a partner in the property in 2000, reminisces: ‘Ricard wanted to trial concrete tanks. He said: “I think they will work well with Garnacha.” I disagreed. I said: “I’ve worked with concrete. It’s hard to clean and makes reduced wines.” Three months later I walked through the winery and there was a concrete tank. I said: “What’s that doing here?” Ricard replied: “I thought you said I should do a trial.”’ Rofes’ latest successful experiment is Heretge – a heretical wine, for it’s a return to Cariñena from the winemaker who became a Garnachista.

Rofes is a winemaker’s winemaker. For a long time he sailed under the radar, though his wines are getting him international attention now. O’Connor points to his importance as a ‘local’ in Priorat – Rofes is from a small village in the mountainous part of DO Montsant, and currently lives in L’Aleixar, a town between Scala Dei and the city of Reus. ‘Ricard took on the role of a leader in the winemaking community, which in my opinion had been missing from Priorat,’ O’Connor explains. ‘René Barbier was an icon but not a leader any more; Alvaro did a great job, but there was a need for people who had grown up there.’

There have been, says Rofes, three mentors in his own career. The first is Joan Asens, the winemaker and biodynamic specialist who ran Alvaro Palacios’ Priorat vineyards for almost 20 years, and taught Rofes at the oenology school in Falset. ‘Es un duende,’ he says of Asens. It’s a word we find difficult to translate, given that Google suggests ‘elf’. We finally agree on ‘someone who achieves the impossible with wines, with an ease which mere mortals cannot’. The second is O’Connor. ‘Es un maestro,’ according to Rofes. ‘He always said: “Go for it.” And if it didn’t work, he’d say: “Let’s see why.”’ The third is Australian winemaker Steve Pannell. ‘I went to McLaren Vale in 2008 and I learned a lot from him about Garnacha.’

Building a legacy

Now Rofes is becoming something of a godfather to a new generation. Fernando Mora MW says: ‘He’s serious – he wants people to learn.’ In 2017, Roc Gramona Simó, the next generation of the Gramona family, biodynamic growers and makers of traditional-method sparkling wines, worked with Rofes as assistant winemaker. ‘Ricard is very accessible. He’s humble. He’s from the region. He’s like Joan Asens – he gives you freedom, he’s not a control freak. Working with Ricard you learn to be so much more respectful of the fruit.’

O’Connor is full of praise for the ‘gentle, political ability to drive change without anyone noticing’, that Rofes has. ‘One of his first genius moves was to start running all the vineyards. Doing this was an amazing feat that few people ever saw, the results of which are now apparent in the bottle.’ O’Connor explains that, prior to Rofes, the growers were all owners in the family business. They harvested their grapes when they wanted and sent them to the winery ‘in a chaotic fashion’.

So Rofes negotiated with them. The winery would lease their vineyards and take over their crews; he would manage it all. ‘In doing so, he removed the need to constantly negotiate with the owners, and was able to pick at the time that best suited the grapes, not the owners,’ O’Connor continues. ‘He negotiated that the owners would not receive any payment for the first years, so that he could put all their returns back into the properties, replanting and returning them to their former glory.’

Rofes now also makes wine at another historic monument, the monastery of Poblet, burial place of the kings of Aragón. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a monastic community, and it requires that same political skill and sensitivity to run a commercial winery within this religious setting.

Rofes’ ‘maestro’ and friend, O’Connor, is currently working as a winemaker and consultant in the US. He reflects: ‘During my goodbye dinner with Carles Peyra and Ricard, I encouraged them to focus their efforts on getting Scala Dei up to where it really should be. My view is that there is only one winery in the world they need to emulate, a winery that has no tasting room, and that has access to the best vineyards which the monks identified: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Spain lacks such a pure, terroir-driven winery. Scala Dei clearly has the vineyards, and the absolute authority, granted by the monks. And it has a winemaker who expresses the vineyard and terroir rather than his private, idealised wine style, as so many other winemakers do.’

Originally published in the March 2020 issue of Decanter magazine. 

See the Scala Dei tasting notes and scores, tasted by Decanter experts

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First-taste: Torres Mas de la Rosa 2017 and latest releasesSpanish wines you should have in your cellar: The top 24Exciting new wave wines from SpainThe new classification of DOQ Priorat

As part of its 150th Anniversary celebrations, Spanish producer Torres has released new vintages of its top wines from Priorat, Penedès and Conca de Barberà. The Antologia tasting included the second vintage of Mas de la Rosa, made from a tiny 1.9ha parcel of vines grown at 500m in the Mas de la Rosa Valley in Porrera, Priorat. 

‘We’ve been working very hard to acquire historic vineyards,’ explained Miguel Torres Maczassek, fifth-generation managing director of the company, who discovered the Mas de la Rosa finca while he was looking for plots of old vines to use in Torres Perpetual, the producer’s old-vine Priorat bottling. 

The steep vineyard site, featuring Priorat’s signature licorella slate soil, is farmed by grower Manolo del Aguila Ruiz. Garnacha and Cariñena vines were planted here in 1939-1940. Mas de la Rosa is a field blend of the two vines – roughly 60% Cariñena and 40% Garnacha – fermented in stainless steel, with slow extraction, and aged for 16 months in new French oak.

‘Priorat is very powerful; its wines can be very strong. You have to tame it and try to obtain this finesse, this purity,’ commented Miguel, who noted that the high altitude of this site gives the wine its freshness and acidity. 

While the 2016 vintage was characterised by a dry winter, rainy spring and below-average temperatures in summer; 2017 saw above-average rainfall in winter and an extremely hot spring and early summer. Only 2,328 bottles, 70 magnums and 35 jeroboams of Mas de la Rosa 2017 have been produced. Bottles are available via importer Fells, with an RRP of £300.

In addition to the Mas de la Rosa, Torres has also released the 2017 vintages of Milmanda and Mas La Plana, along with the 2016 Reserva Real and Grans Muralles – a wine that showcases the work the producer has been doing to resurrect and protect native grapes such as Querol and Garró. 

Finally Miguel discussed some of the new Spanish projects that Torres has in development, including Els Tossals, an abandoned mountain vineyard at 750m in Priorat. ‘This is a project for my children,’ he said, adding that he hopes Torres will eventually release a single-vineyard wine from the site.

Tasting Torres Mas de la Rosa and other wines:

For 800 years, Priorat was equivalent, in many aspects, to Burgundy. The land was managed by monks (‘priorat’ means ‘priory’) ensuring high quality wine. Then, the church properties were confiscated in the 18^th century, the winemaking expertise was lost, and the region fell into oblivion for more than a century. Priorat became a poor area, with huge problems of depopulation.

In the early 1970s, the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation published a report, aimed at fostering economic development in the area, which concluded that Priorat had all the attributes of a top-quality wine region. Still, another 15 years had to pass by until a group of five friends, led by winemaker René Barbier, bought some land and grapes, planted vines and started producing modern style wines. The success was almost immediate.

Today, more than 500 growers and 109 wineries populate Priorat. The appellations enjoys an image of quality and identity. Indeed some of Priorat’s wines are among the most sought-afer in the world.

The classification

What’s more, Priorat is already moving ahead. Recently, the region became the first Spanish appellation with a comprehensive zoning approach, inspired by Burgundy. Five different categories of wine are organised in a pyramid, starting with generic wines, then moving up to vi de vila (village wines) and, from the 2017 vintage, vi de paratge (similar to a French cru), then vinya classificada (premier cru) and gran vinya classificada (grand cru).

On top of that, Priorat is also the world’s strictest appellation in what concerns the legal definition of old vines, or vinyas vellas, a term that is only applied to vines planted before 1945.

The Priorat classification is quite idiosyncratic. It is specific to well determined vineyards, because vineyard sites, vine age and yields are paramount to quality; terroir is the crucial factor for Priorat.

It is also visionary, taking into account the secular discontinuity in wine production and the fact that most producers have been active for less than 25 years. The classification, instead of fixing a picture of the past, as Bordeaux and Burgundy do, creates the conditions upon which new producers can aspire to become icons.

There are a total of 459 paratges (crus) in the appellation, determined by scientific criteria, but only a few producers have been able to produce wines recognised at the highest quality levels.

Indeed, only one wine, L’Ermita by Alvaro Palacios, has the gran vinya classificada status, and just four wines are vinya classificada. In the future, little by little, other producers will go up the quality ladder and join this noble bunch; they have the incentive to do it, and a clear idea of the conditions necessary to achieve promotion.

The tasting

The masterclass tasting held at the Decanter Spain & Portugal Fine Wine Encounter on 29 February was a premiere in several aspects. It was a first opportunity to taste wines that are, or will be, classified in all the new categories. It was also an opportunity to taste old vines wines with no geographical appellation, villages wines, paratges, vinya classificada and the only gran vinya classificada.

The tasting also demonstrated Priorat’s progression in recent years. The best producers now have the knowledge and self-confidence to explore delicacy and subtlety. Twenty years ago, a Priorat tasting would have been exhausting; those wines were powerful, concentrated, heavily oaked, tannic and very ripe.

Now, none of the wines tasted show signs of over-ripeness or excessive oak, or even too high alcohol. Balance and complexity is the mantra of the new top Priorat wines.

Spanish grapes Garnacha and Cariñena (also called Samsó) are the genetic material behind the magic of Priorat. International grape varieties, also authorised for generic wines, are now playing second fiddle, and most often absent, in top wines.

But most of all, this tasting was an occasion to enjoy some of the most inimitable wines in the world; to be seduced by the magic of a unique Mediterranean vineyard.

The wines

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Sarah Jane Evans MW and Simon Field MW tasted 87 wines with three Outstanding and 44 highly Recommended…

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release reds from Priorat, with availability in UK or US markets

The verdict

Priorat is entering into a new phase of its modern history. The region is very prestigious, which has been vital in enhancing its self-confidence and its scope to be able to experiment and develop greater diversity within a well-defined overall identity. The permitted international grape varieties, so important in the early success of Priorat wines, now play second fiddle to Garnacha and Cariñena.

Key to quality in the region are viticulture and winemaker personality. Climate change is a factor – the last few years have seen a succession of extreme drought seasons, with record high temperatures interspersed with heavy rains, often coming at a bad moment. Vine-growers have been able to maintain very good quality despite these difficulties. One consequence of such developments is the rise of Cariñena – sturdy, reliable and great when yields are moderate – to star status alongside Garnacha. Very interestingly, the three top wines in this tasting are Cariñena-based.

Scroll down to see the tasting notes & scores

The tasting was presented village by village. Unsurprisingly, Escaladei, Porrera and Gratallops earned most of the high accolades, while Vilella Alta, El Molar and Morera de Montsant were below (a very good) average. Clay soils in Escaladei give wines a different character, particularly in the Cariñena – a lovely contribution to diversity.

There were few surprises in terms of the producer names at the top, and very few wines showed the volatile acidity, oxidation or excessive alcohol problems that were more usual in the past. Clearly, though, some producers are still experimenting, with uneven results. There were some wines showing early oxidation, even a slight mustiness, which may result from winemaking practices.

While it was too soon to evaluate any differences between the new Priorat wine categories, we could certainly appreciate an extra element of finesse in some of the wines claiming a selected vineyard origin.

The ageing potential of Priorat wines is particularly tricky to evaluate. Past experiences have been mixed. Some wines, even among the great ones, go downhill relatively quickly, while others develop amazing refinement and complexity with time – but there is no clear way to assess this when the wines are young, and beyond about seven to 10 years the need for further ageing is a matter of opinion. Maybe the best option is to have several bottles in your cellar and to make up your own mind by trying the wines over a number of years.

In terms of vintages, the three top-scorers here were from 2016 – clearly superior to 2014 and 2015. There were too few wines from the iconic 2013 vintage to form any conclusion. Most of the best 2017s are not yet in the market, so judgements cannot yet be made.

The three judges were broadly in agreement, each of us tending to mark down wines with excessive oak, lack of balance or jammy fruit, and to reward restrained elegance and complexity. Although Priorat wines usually have at least 14% alcohol – and often in excess of 15.5% – they were quite smooth to taste; we did not feel particularly tired after the tasting. This would have been impossible 20 years ago. Well done to the producers!

Overall, the tasting was very good: more than half the wines were Highly Recommended and above; there were 27 wines with 88-89pts, and many of those would be likely to gain higher marks in a less competitive tasting. Considering that some of the region’s most iconic wines did not participate, there is a sound rationale to state that Priorat is clearly a classic fine wine region with a justified prestige.

The scores

87 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly Recommended 44

Recommended 34

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Faulty 2

See all wines from this panel tasting

About Priorat

Now a byword for top quality with its full-bodied reds, this precipitous Catalan region has attracted some of Spain’s finest producers since its potential was revealed. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW investigates…

It’s one of those miracle regions that any investor dreams of finding. Despite 900 years of written fine wine history, after the Spanish civil war (1939) the area was in the doldrums, with only two active wineries, specialised in rancio wines. In the early 1970s, a report on development prospects in the region, published by the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organization, concluded that Priorat had all the attributes of a top quality wine region. Fifteen years more passed by until a group of five friends, led by René Barbier, bought some land and grapes and started producing, in a co-op winery, modern-style wines. The success was almost immediate.

Nowadays, more than 500 vine growers and 109 wineries populate Priorat. This is one of the rare appellations with a clear image of quality and identity. Some of Priorat’s wines are among the most sought after in the world.

Together with Rioja (DOCa) Priorat is the only qualified designation of origin (expressed as DOQ in Catalan) in Spain – a regulation requiring stricter quality conditions. However, under Alvaro Palacios’ enthusiastic leadership, Priorat is now moving even further ahead.

Recently, the region became Spain’s first appellation to adopt a comprehensive zonification approach, to a degree inspired by Burgundy. There are five different wine categories, in a pyramid structure, starting from a base of generic wines, then ‘vi de vila’ (village wines), ‘vi de paratge’ (like a cru), ‘vinya classificada’ (premier cru) and ‘gran vinya classificada’ (grand cru). In this panel tasting, where wines were flighted by village, tasters had an opportunity to assess the rationale behind such classification.

Star quality

Priorat producers extol the exceptional character of their famed llicorella slate soil. But there are other soil types: I would recommend trying wines from clay soils, which give a very different expression. Vineyards are planted at between 300m-600m altitude, mostly on steep slopes and terraces. The climate is distinctly Mediterranean, with scorching dry summers and relatively cold winters because of the altitude.

Garnacha and Cariñena (or Samsó) are the genetic material behind the magic of Priorat, while other grape varieties are also authorised: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are indeed quite common in the blends.

Priorat: The facts

Plantings (2018): 2,010ha, (1,872ha red grapes, 138ha white grapes)

Production (2018): 6.5m Kg (6m Kg red varieties, the rest white; 2.7m Kg Garnacha, 1.6m Kg Cariñena), equivalent to about 4.5m bottles

Average yield: 3,200Kg/Ha (comparing to 5,281Kg/Ha* overall for Rioja reds in 2017)

Number of vine growers: 535

Number of wineries: 109

*Source: Consejo Regulador DOCa Rioja

Priorat: Know your vintages

2017 One of the most difficult vintages – extremely dry and hot. Only old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena yielded quality. Give the best eight years to unfurl.

2016 Drought marked the vintage, provoking hydric stress. Old vines showed their advantage. Many impressive wines – at least 10 years ahead.

2015 Warm and abundant, with good quality overall. Concentrated wines, the best should develop well over 10 years.

2014 A difficult year, with rain episodes during harvest, but excellent conditions for late-ripening varieties. Uneven quality.

2013 A very cold winter gave way to a rainy spring and then a dry summer and autumn. Great quality, long ageing potential, probably more than 15 years.

2012 Very dry growing season, but good healthy grapes. Nice ageing potential, until 2024.

Priorat wine styles have changed a lot over the last 30 years. Initially, the wines tended to be powerful, with lots of tannins, alcohol and oak. Then, producers started placing more emphasis on finesse. Now, Priorat offers an amazing diversity of styles. This is not only due to the region’s diversity of soils and microclimates, but also to the high number of characterful winemakers attracted by Priorat. If there is one cluster of wine creativity in Spain, it is to be found here.

Let’s not forget, too, that Priorat can also yield excellent white and rancio wines.

Top 32 Priorat wines from the panel tasting:

The following wines scored 91 points and above

See all the wines tasted here

The judges

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW

A DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain, Ballesteros Torres is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He is a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino and on the governing board of the Spanish Tasters’ Union.

Sarah Jane Evans MW

One of our three DWWA Co-Chairs, Evans is an awarded journalist and author specialising in Spanish wines, food and culture. A member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, her most recent book is The Wines of Northern Spain (Infinite Ideas 2018).

Simon Field MW

Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than two decades and now works as a consultant on areas which particularly interested him at that time, including Spain and the fortified category. He was admitted into the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino in 2015.

Spanish producer Torres has launched a new wine from Priorat. Made from a tiny 2ha parcel of vines grown at 500m in the Mas de la Rosa Valley in Porrera, Mas de la Rosa 2016 is ‘a very personal project’ for Miguel Torres Junior, who explained: ‘Sometimes my family didn’t even know about this wine!’

Miguel discovered the Mas de la Rosa finca while he was looking for plots of old Priorat vines to use in Torres Perpetual, the producer’s old-vine bottling from the region. The site, farmed by grower Manolo del Aguila Ruiz, is a steep slope, with Priorat’s signature licorella slate soil. ‘This is very heroic viticulture – everything has to be done by hand,’ noted Miguel.

The final wine is a field blend of Garnacha and Cariñena, from vines planted in 1939-1940. Fermented in stainless steel, with slow extraction, it then spends 16 months in new French oak.

The 2016 vintage was characterised by a dry winter, then a rainy start to spring, but low rainfall in late spring and summer. Temperatures in summer were not particularly high, leading to delayed maturation by August, though warm weather in early September accelerated the sugar concentration in the grapes. ‘The high altitude of this site gives freshness and acidity,’ added Miguel.

Only 1,957 bottles and 67 magnums of Mas de la Rosa 2016 have been produced, with an allocation of 60 bottles for the UK, available via importer Fells, with an RRP of £300 per bottle.

Tasting Torres Mas de la Rosa and other wines:

Wine Legend: Torres, Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 1970, Penedès, Catalonia, Spain

Bottles produced 54,000

Composition 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tempranillo, 10% Monastrell

Yield about 55hl/ha

Alcohol 12.4%

Release price 1,650 pesetas

Price today €85

A legend because…

In 1979, a blind-tasting in Paris, the Gault-Millau Wine Olympics, placed great French classic Cabernets such as Châteaux Latour and La Mission Haut-Brion alongside newcomers such as this wine from Torres. Known as Black Label, the 1970 was made from young vines, but the wine still triumphed, launching Torres onto the international stage.

Looking back

The firm of Torres was founded in 1870, and in 1962 a youthful Miguel A Torres took over the winery. Forward-looking and open-minded, in 1964 he planted international varieties in some of the Penedès vineyards. The Cabernet Sauvignon cuttings came from Jean Leon, another Penedès pioneer, and it’s rumoured that its source was the Médoc: Châteaux Lafite and La Lagune. Moreover, some cuttings came from a nursery in Montpellier. Planting French varieties was a controversial decision, and even Torres’ father had strong reservations about the wisdom of planting Cabernet. 1970 was the first vintage of the Black Label, which from the 1995 vintage on was renamed after the vineyard, Mas La Plana.

Now fourth-generation president of Familia Torres, Miguel A Torres recalls: ‘The wine was so different, it immediately gained a reputation, especially by triumphing over some of the best French wines. What a lot of people don’t know is that it was my mother’s idea to send Mas La Plana to the 1979 tasting.’

The vintage

An outstanding year in Penedès as well as Rioja, 1970 offered an ideal growing season, although the crop was small.

The terroir

29ha of Cabernet Sauvignon are planted in the Pacs sub-region of central Penedès. The original plantings were on deep, yellowish grey-brown alluvial soils that are well drained and have a moderate water holding capacity. The soil is made up of layers of gravel, sand and clay. The elevation of 225m ensures relatively cool night-time temperatures.

The wine

The grapes were fermented in stainless steel tanks; indeed Torres was almost certainly the first Spanish wine producer to install them. The wine was then aged six months in new American oak, then in older barrels for a year more. It was not until the 1990 vintage that Torres decided to age the wine entirely in French barriques.

The reaction

Stephen Brook tasted the wine in 1993: ‘Fairly deep red but becoming pale and russet on the rim. Light liquorice nose, becoming attenuated but still attractive… still powerful but perhaps the fruit is in retreat.’

In 2008, Tom Cannavan noted: ‘Lovely old wine vegetal sweetness on the nose, notes of dried blood, truffle, prune and that echo of very sweet black fruit. On the palate lovely sweetness still, masses of clove and spice, and still a fine core of redcurrant and cherry acidity. Lovely soft, truffly finish.’

In 2015 in Beijing, Edward Ragg wrote: ‘Tertiary aromas of roasted meats, mushroom, leather, combining with barrel-matured notes of coffee, cocoa, chocolate, now caramelised with age… complex. On the palate a profound tannic structure, but still with this wonderful core of fruit coming through… Lively acidity, quite vibrant fruit – this wine is not “dried out” in any sense – with mellowing chewy tannins and a long, layered finish.’

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With its high vineyards and limestone soils, this large Catalonian DO makes distinctive whites from the Garnatxa Blanca grape. Miquel Hudin takes us on a tour of the region and introduces the top producers and wines to look out for…

Only a foolish Catalan politician would mention how Catalonia ends at the Ebro river – and only the most foolish among them would say such a thing while standing south of said river. Blustery populism aside, Catalonia does not end at the Ebro; instead it actually rises sharply from it. These distant hinterlands – some 175km inland to the west and a nod to the south from hip, touristic Barcelona – represent a very different side of Catalonia compared to the sunny, selfie-prone beaches that are familiar to most.

Scroll down for Miquel Hudin’s top 12 Terra Alta wines

This ‘high land’ or terra alta forms the geographic base for DO Terra Alta, where winemaking has been documented since medieval times. However, it’s only in the last decade that the region has resoundingly come of age, making white Grenache (Garnatxa Blanca as it’s known in Catalan, or Garnacha Blanca) its signature grape in the process, while also recuperating ancient red grape varieties such as Morenillo.

Collective history

Wine production in Terra Alta was documented and regulated by the Knights Templar from the 13th century onwards, but phylloxera and the brutal Battle of the Ebro in the Spanish Civil War very nearly wrote the region’s final chapter in viticulture. Sparsely populated, many people left after these bleak times to seek out a better life in the cities. Thus, the village cooperatives were formed to stabilise agricultural work for those who didn’t migrate. With a normalisation of wine production, this in turn eventually led to the formation of the Terra Alta DO in 1972.

Was the wine these cooperatives were making a fine product? Often not, but it gave an economic engine to those who wouldn’t have otherwise had one. It also allowed the owners of scores of old vineyards in the region to maintain them, rather than tearing them out for some other crop that might have been less back-breaking and more profitable at the time. Thus, the winemaking co-ops formed a bridge across troubled waters that spanned the entire 20th century, and to a large degree still continues to function well today.

DO Terra Alta at a glance

Founded: 1972

Cellars: 49

Vineyard area: 5,800ha

Climate: Continental- Mediterranean

Main grapes: White White Grenache, Macabeu

Red Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Tempranillo, Morenillo (experimental)

Annual production: 40m kg/7m bottles

Plantings: 27% white Grenache, 24% red Grenache (including ‘hairy’ Garnacha Peluda), 18% Macabeu, 8% Syrah, 5% Carignan, 5% Tempranillo, 3% Muscat d’Alexandria, 3% Parellada, 2.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4.5% others

Small voices, big ideas

For the second half of the 20th century, and indeed still today, DO Terra Alta has been something of a ‘bread basket’ in terms of grape production, with its not-insignificant 5,800ha of vineyards. By way of comparison, France’s world-famous, also primarily Grenache region, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is about half that.

While the Terra Alta viticulturists are able to grow 40 million kg of grapes annually, the cellars only produce about seven million bottles of wine. A quick bit of cellar maths shows that there’s a rather large imbalance there. The reason for this is that, historically, wineries from other regions (such as Torres in Penedès) create cross-regional blends outside Terra Alta under the Catalunya DO.

Since the turn of the century, many boutique cellars have opened, and in 2015 a huge change followed the election of Joan Arrufí of Altavins as DO president. This has marked the beginning of a new era for the region as it develops a profile beyond being simply a growing region. The DO is also striving to be a popular destination for wine tourism, with the hope of being known as more than ‘that place where Pablo Picasso spent a couple of summers’.

Two regions in one

Many of the region’s old-vine vineyards that were thankfully maintained throughout the 20th century are white Grenache. In general, the further south you go in Spain, the less favourable it is to grow white grapes, so finding all these white vineyards nearly at the bottom of Catalonia is quite a curiousity; even more so as due west are the DOs of Campo de Borja and Cariñena, which are known for producing powerful reds.

The secret of the wines in Terra Alta, especially the whites, lies very much in the almighty concept of terroir. As Arrufí states: ‘We have vineyards from 300m up to 800m in altitude as well as a unique continental- Mediterranean climate.’ The region sees hot, albeit not torrid days in the summer followed by exceedingly cool nights with drops of 10°C or even 20°C. These temperature drops preserve acidity in grapes and reduce sugar production during ripening, which leads to more nuanced, crisp wines.

It may not be apparent when visiting the small, depopulated villages of the region, but if you turn off onto almost any dusty trail, you’ll quickly find yourself in the middle of vineyards with chalky soil, especially around Batea. Vineyards are randomly punctured by the towers of massive windmills for electricity that pockmark the region, but the grapes pay no heed and these soils work to soften the structure of white Grenache and preserve its acidity as well.

But it’s not just beneficial to the white wines, as both the traditional red grapes of Grenache and Carignan (Cariñena) are able to achieve a delicate profile thanks to the climate and the soils. Joan Angel Llibreria, the owner of Edetària, has performed extensive soil analysis, and he found that: ‘While chalky and limestone soils form the base for much of the territory, we have pockets of sandy, gravelly and other decomposing, poor soils that will produce fine wines both in terms of whites as well as reds in Terra Alta.’

The white way

It was eight years ago when Terra Alta started its ‘Sóc Garnatxa Blanca’ or ‘I am white Grenache’ promotional campaign. Admittedly, the first wines I tasted from this grape were pleasing, with nice, fresh acidity and good potential for food pairings, but they didn’t achieve a level beyond that. Accounting for one-third of all white Grenache plantings globally, Terra Alta has proved in recent vintages that its wineries now deeply understand and can excel with this grape. Various wines, especially those from older, more concentrated vines, are offering untold complexity that deepens with each harvest and the arrival of freshly trained oenologists to the area.

In this southern part of Catalonia, beyond the Ebro, it’s important to note that, alongside white Grenache, there is also a place for the red Grenache, plus a smattering of Carignan, the native light red Morenillo, and even French varieties such as Syrah. These grapes will help to carve out a future for the Terra Alta region in making fresh, delicate yet luscious wines. If the bottles available now had been around 100 years ago, Picasso would undoubtedly have stayed on a bit longer.

Terra Alta: 10 names to know

Altavins

Started in 2001, this cellar has been at the vanguard of the boutique movement, and its owner Joan Arrufí is now the DO president. His focus on vinifying certain vineyards and old plots into single wines has worked to show the strength of the Terra Alta terroir.

Bàrbara Forés

With a family history in winemaking, Carme Ferrer and husband Manuel Sanmartín restarted quality winemaking in the region by renovating Ferrer’s old family cellars in the heart of Gandesa. Bàrbara Forés is Ferrer’s ancestor, born in 1828, who was responsible for starting the family on its winemaking path.

Celler Batea

One of the local cooperatives, formed in the 1950s, that continues to make quality wines within its village of the same name. Batea readily shows that big cellars can indeed produce pure expressions of their territory, just as nuanced and engaging as the small producers.

Bernaví

Often it’s expatriates who see the value of up-and-coming wine regions. In this case it’s two Italian brothers, Marco and Gino Bernava, along with Marco’s Catalan wife Ruth Fullat Sisteré, who created this project on an old 17th-century farmstead named Mas Vernet. The wines, while very much showing the character of the region, also have a character of Italian fusion to them that gives a unique lift.

Casa Mariol

Created in 1945, this is one of the older private producers in the region. In 2000, siblings Josep María and Marta Vaquer Llop took over running the winery, making a generational change. Through modernisation and expansion of the cellar, as well as a redesign of the wines, they’ve become known locally as much for their varietal wines, including a lovely Syrah, as for their excellent vermouth.

Edetària

Started as a personal project of owner Joan Angel Lliberia, the winery has grown in leaps and bounds to become one of the strongest proponents of the unique and varied soil types found in the region, and is also focused on promoting fine white as well as red wines.

Frisach

Created in 2009, this is one of the newest additions to the DO, but is from a family in Corbera d’Ebre with over two centuries’ experience of growing grapes. Known for its lively wines and organic farming, its Sang de Corb (‘crow’s blood’) has been a popular blend locally based upon old vines of Grenache and Carignan.

Herència Altés

Started on a small scale in 2010 when Núria Altés and her husband, Englishman Rafael de Haan, produced a small quantity of wines. Initial results were strong enough to merit further investment in 2013 and the duo greatly expanded the winery with a striking, modern installation that sits by the ruins of an Iberic village. The facilities have allowed them to experiment a great deal in terms of various vinification methods.

LaFou

Founder Ramon Roqueta Segalés is Catalan, but not from Terra Alta – his family actually comes from the central DO Pla de Bages (north of Penedès) where it has its winery, Abadal. What attracted him to Terra Alta was the unique profile of Grenache in both red and white, and he has been producing lovely expressions from the region since 2007 at an 18th-century house called Casa Figueras.

Vins del Tros

One of the newer cellars in the DO, founded in 2009 by Joan Ramon Bada and Josep Arrufat, this is also one of the more experimental in the region. While mainly producing varietal white Grenache wines, it has also done a great deal of work to recuperate the ancient native grape Morenillo.

Based in Catalonia, wine writer Miquel Hudin publishes www.hudin.com. He was the Fortnum & Mason Best Drinks Writer of 2017 and is a DWWA judge

See Miquel Hudin’s top 12 Terra Alta wines

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Andrew Jefford meets two pioneers of international varieties in northern Catalonia.

One of the most beautiful and celebrated poems in the Spanish poet Antonio Machado’s ‘Proverbios y cantares’ begins

Few poems could be more appropriate for those planting a new vineyard where none has been before. There is no tradition, no ‘path’ to fall back on. The footsteps are the vines, and the path is a track through time which begins when the vines are planted.

Back in 2003, hoteliers and winegrowers Marc and Emma Bournazeau-Florensa first planted their property, called Terra Remota, in northern Empordà, though they had owned it since 1989. Since they were very conscious that it was a journey of discovery, they chose to call three of the key wines Camino (this is the main red wine), Caminito (rosé) and Caminante (white). The names are a little confusing — until you remember the poem. Perhaps they should print it on the back label.

The couple had formerly owned Ch St Roch, just over the border in Roussillon; Machado’s work was familiar to them not least because he died in exile in Collioure during the Spanish Civil War, and is buried in Collioure cemetery. St Roch was subsequently sold to Jean-Marc Lafage — whose work I will touch on next week — since the couple wanted the excitement of a new path in wine, and the chance to create something out of nothing. (The Florensa family are also part-owners of the Apalta winery Viña Las Niñas, another ‘new path’.)

The soils are granite, and although it’s a warm zone the tramontana wind from the north helps freshen and cool the site; the natural pH of the wines is unusually low, and their (French) winemaker Edith Soler, formerly at Sieur d’Arques in Limoux, says that acid adjustment is never necessary. The team chose to plant a mixture of classic varieties: some Garnatxa and Tempranillo but Syrah too, and Chardonnay, Garnatxa Blanca and Chenin Blanc for the whites.

Nor are they the only ‘wanderers’ of this sort in Empordà. Down in the south of the zone, the Clos d’Agon vineyard near to Calonges was planted a few years earlier, initially by Philippe d’Ambois and Daniela Bagon, a Franco-Belgian couple, back in 1989. D’Ambois had been a friend of Montpellier viticultural professor André Crespy, who advised planting its clay and schist soils with French varieties too: the Viognier came from Ch Grillet, and there is also Roussanne, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Shiraz. The farm, Mas Gil, had formerly been polycultural, in part planted with hybrids, so it was indeed a new start.

The first owners sold up in 1998, and the relay was taken over by a Swiss consortium including importers Franz Wermuth and Frank Ebinger, and Silvio Denz of Ch Faugères and Lafaurie-Peyraguey; Peter Sisseck of Pingus and other properties consults, and the enthusiastic young winemaker is Miguel Coronado. Although both Terra Remota and Clos d’Agon lie in Empordà, neither uses the DO name – since some of the vine varieties are unauthorised.

Tasting notes for a selection of wines from each are given below. To my surprise, the whites in general seem more impressive than the reds at both properties, but this may change with time.

One of the challenges of forging a new wine-growing path, after all, is that by definition you will begin with young vines — and most of the greatest wines of Catalonia, and in particular its reds, are built on a patrimony of old vines. It also takes time to understand which varieties might respond best to these discovered surroundings — and to learn the slow lessons of the market. All of this learning process is underway, as Machado understood, in the only way possible: “by going further”.

Tasting the Wanderers’ wines:

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When it comes to eating out, Barcelona puts on a spectacular show, directed by a new wave chefs who are pushing the bounds of Catalan cuisine. See our guide to the city’s top restaurants, chosen by local wine producers…

Top restaurants in Barcelona — recommended by the producers at Decanter’s Spain & Portugal Fine Wine Encounter 2018

Restaurants recommended by Pamela Anzano, from Cava producer Gramona:

Disfrutar

Located in the trendy and sprawling L’Esquerra de l’Eixample neighbourhood, the Disfrutar restaurant earned itself two stars in the Michelin Guide 2018.

Following on from its successful sister restaurant Compartir meaning ‘to share’, Disfrutar, ’to enjoy’, captures a similar sense of haut Catalan cuisine paired with laid-back service and hands-on chefs — Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch. The trio cut their teeth at the world-famous elBulli restaurant, before teaming up to create their own restaurants.

On the way to your table, linger by the open kitchen to see the team’s skills in action. There are three tasting menus to choose from, but you won’t find the dishes listed on the website as the chefs believe an element of surprise is key. Book now

Tickets

The curiously named Tickets is the brainchild of chef Albert Adrià, little brother of Ferran Adrià, of elBulli restaurant fame. Although his name carries a little less pomp than his brother, Albert fuels his menus with the same innovation — transforming several simple bar counters into a Michelin-starred destination.

The atmosphere is leisurely and the cooking is full of experimentation and a sense of fun — including dishes like the ‘mini airbag’ of manchego cheese foam with caviar, ‘crunchy suckling pig taco’, plus ‘mille-feuilles’ made with seaweed and sea urchins. To stave off thirst, Tickets has two sommeliers as well as a mixologist. Book now

• See Decanter’s full travel guide for Cava and Barcelona

La Barra de Abellán

After an afternoon or evening stroll along Sant Sebastià beach, head over La Barra de Abellán, overlooking the harbour side of the Barceloneta peninsula. Here you’ll find fresh seafood delicacies including razor clams, oysters, cockles, eels, sea urchins, squid lobsters and red prawns — a specialty of Barceloneta. If you want something from dry land, there’s Wagyu steak on offer.

It’s named after its owner, contemporary chef Carles Abellán, who’s also behind other Barcelona favourites like Suculent (Catalan spelling) and Bravo, which you’ll find in the Hotel W. Book now

SEE ALSO:

• Travel: Driving northern Portugal’s wine route

• Ten of the best Rioja producers – and wines to buy

Dos Palillos

Dos Palillos, or ‘two chopsticks’, is a Michelin-starred restaurant near Las Ramblas, which fuses local Catalan ingredients with Asian-style cooking — focusing on the traditions of Japan, China and Southeast Asia.

The link between the two seemingly dissonant cuisines is the shared idea of using basic utensils to enjoy food — chopsticks in Asia and the little wooden sticks used to spear tapas in Spain.

At the helm is Albert Raurich, a Barcelona-born chef who spent 11 years honing his skills at elBulli. Sommelier Tamae Imachi is on hand to help create interesting wine or saké pairings.

There are a few different dining options: slide your way to the counter by the entrance for casual à carte options, no reservations needed. Or book a spot further inside, where you can sample the extensive tasting menus. On warm afternoons and balmy evenings, there’s also the lantern-lit outdoor terrace.

If you can’t get a table, try its sister restaurant, Dos Pebrots, which is just round the corner and also comes highly recommended. Book now

Hoja Santa

The name Hoja Santa, or ‘sacred leaf’, harks back to a Mexican adventure involving its founders — chefs Albert Adrià and Paco Méndez, in which they became inspired by the Oaxaca leaf and its role in tamales and mole sauces.

Together they created this Mexican Michelin-starred restaurant in the up-and-coming Sant Antoni, neighbourhood near the south of the city.

There are a choice of two tasting menus, ‘Tenoch’ and ‘Pacific’, with the option of adding beverage pairings. Both are a heady mix of pre-Hispanic and Catalan cooking traditions, including dishes such as pickled nopales (cacti), local red prawns with macadamia mole and fava bean encremada. Book now

Restaurants recommended by Lucas Gailhac, brand amabassador for Familia Torres:

ABaC

Part of a five-star boutique hotel to the north of the city, ABaC holds three Michelin stars and is led by Barcelona-born chef Jordi Cruz, a judge on Master Chef Spain.

It was noted by Michelin inspectors for its excellent wine list and you can even select your wine directly from the 1000-bin bodega. Visiting the kitchen is also encouraged and there’s a lit walkway for curious guests.

Reserve a seat outside on the garden terrace or in one of the delicately decorated dining rooms. There are two tasting menus to choose from: ‘Our Tradition’ and ‘Our Avant-Garde’. Menus highlights include toasted pine nut ice cream, tuna marrow, Bloody Mary macaroons and floral ice eggs. Book now

Moments

Walk through the hotel lobby in the Barcelona Mandarin Oriental, well-positioned on the Passeig de Gràcia, and you’ll reach its two-Michelin-star restaurant, Moments.

You can order à la carte or opt for the seasonally changing tasting menu, which focuses on culinary ‘ecosystems’ — including dishes daringly entitled ‘swamp’, ‘desert’, ‘tundra’ and even ‘aphotic abyssal’ (ask staff for full explanations).

Michelin inspectors noted its ‘particularly interesting wine list’, and ‘personalised’ wine pairing is available with the tasting menu, for an additional fee.

There’s a private chef’s table for serious gourmands, with just 15 seats and is only separated from the kitchen by a broad pane of coloured glass.

The chefs are the renowned mother-and-son team Carme Ruscalleda and Raül Balam. If you enjoy Moments, you can visit Ruscalleda’s other restaurant Sant Pau, located between Barcelona and Girona, which holds three Michelin stars. Book now

Celler de Can Roca

Although not technically in the city, Barcelona’s proximity to this restaurant in nearby Girona makes it worth a special trip. Why? It’s twice been ranked as the number one restaurant in the world, and currently holds no less than three Michelin stars.

Celler de Can Roca’s success comes down to the dynamism of the three Roca brothers, each with his own area of creative expertise. The eldest, Joan, is the head chef and youngest, Jordi, is the pastry chef, together they concoct the seven-course Classic and 14-course Festival menus.

But true oenophiles should make themselves known to middle brother Josep, the sommelier, who provides a wine list that weighs in like an encyclopaedia.

His ‘unique wine cellar with different sensory areas’ received high praise from the Michelin inspectors. Try and wangle a tour if you can, or at least plumb his wine knowledge for unexpected pairings.

The Roca brothers’ three-sided restaurant vision manifests itself in the triangular glass design of their restaurant, surrounding an inner garden. Book now

Dos Cielos

For a meal with a view, there are few places to match the heights of Dos Cielos, located on the 24th floor of the five-star Meliá hotel. Its glass walls offer a panoramic picture of the mountains, sea and city skyline. There’s also a roof terrace if you’d prefer to eat alfresco.

Brothers Javier and Sergio Torres have created its menu of market-fresh ingredients, which won two stars in The Michelin Guide 2018 — inspectors also complimented its excellent 200-bin wine list and ‘designer setting’. For bookings call +34 93 367 20 70

Lasarte

Basque chef Martín Berasategui is well known for his many Michelin stars, eight in total, of which his flagship restaurant Lasarte holds three.

The restaurant, on the ground floor of the Monument Hotel, was recently redesigned by a team of architects and it’s now filled with silvery lighting and an undulating ceiling. There’s a special chef’s table that seats eight, positioned for close observation of the kitchen action.

Choose from the à la carte menu, or the lavish 12-course tasting option, with wine pairing available from sommelier Marc Pinto. The wine list includes several hundred wines to choose from and was deemed ‘particularly interesting’ by the Michelin inspectors. Book now

More wine travel ideas:

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• Ten of the best restaurants in San Sebastián

In partnership with ARAEX Grands

Everything to know about the Priorat region...

In partnership with ARAEX Grands

Priorat profile

Climate: Long hot summers with little rainfall, making it ideal for ripening Garnacha and Carinena.

Soils: Called ‘Ilicorella’, a red slate soil, with small bits of ‘mica’. This soil helps to reflect and conserve the heat.

While there are only two Spanish wine regions with the exalted “quality” DO certification, it’s Spanish wine juggernaut, Rioja that generally takes the majority of the spotlight from the much smaller Priorat.

While wine is thought to have been produced in the region since Roman times, what we recognise as the more familiar style of winemaking is generally credited to the arrival of monks from the Chartreuse Order in France, in the 12th century.

With a steady increase in terms of production and quality through to the 19th century, phylloxera’s arrival in 1890 was devastating and it wasn’t until several people with a mind to create clean, barrel-aged wines starting in the 1970s that fortunes changed for the region.

The 1989 “Clos” vintage is largely credited as being what brought Priorat back into the international wine spotlight given that influential wine critics at the time rated it and successive vintages quite highly.

Local families started their own cellars throughout the 1990s in a Second Wave, which overall led to the collapse of the old village cooperative wineries from the early 20th century in the name of producing even higher quality wines. It has been on an upward swing ever since, despite stumbles during the 2008-09 financial crisis.

Five Spanish grape varieties to know

The twelve ‘vins de vila’ (see map below) are designated areas for growing grapes within the DOQ Priorat, which producers can label their wines with. This system was established in 2009.

Top five Spanish wine regions to see 

Wine style

The wines, once known for their full-bodied strength coming from Grenache and Carignan have changed markedly in recent years. Despite alcohol levels in wine the world over rising due to climate change, there has been a huge pull back in oak profile and grape hang time to create fresher and more immediately approachable wines with fewer French grapes in the blends.

What many consider to be Priorat’s ‘Third Wave’ (in just 40 years of recent winemaking history) has shown that the wineries can adapt and change while staying true what defines this as one of Spain’s highest-quality regions.

Andrew Jefford feels the blast in Catalonia’s Empordà.

Through travel comes understanding. An open mind, of course, is essential, as is the readiness to tear up preconceptions. I had a little tearing up to do recently.

It was one of those visits which (like the journey from Italy’s Collio to Slovenia’s Brda) makes you realise how pointless national borders can be. The wine region in question was Empordà. I had previously always thought of it as classic Catalan hill country with a distinctive Mediterranean beauty and identity, like Alella or Penedès.

That’s not right. It is, perhaps, best seen as a part of Greater Roussillon: a sister vineyard to Maury and the Agly Valley, to Collioure and Banyuls. These French appellations are just 20 minutes’ drive away from Empordà’s northernmost vineyards. In terroir terms, the French-Spanish border here is an irrelevance: the five belong together.

Taste the best wines of Empordà, and you’ll see a drama, a stoniness and an austere, almost aching bittersweet beauty which is common to this northern Catalonian cluster of vineyard zones.

The eastern Pyrenees comes clattering down into the Mediterranean at this point via a fistful of ranges and valleys. What divides the Empordà plain from the Perpignan plain is the chain of the Albères (Serra de l’Albera), with Collioure and Banyuls sewn on one side of it and the Northern Empordà vineyards stitched on to the other, sharing the same acidic brown schist soils (there are granites further inland). The Albères push on to the sea via the exposed Cap de Creus and its own hill chain, the Serra de Rodes. Roussillon’s 2,784m-peak of Canigou is visible throughout, clouds allowing.

It’s tough country, not least because of the flagellation of the Tramontane, the northwesterly wind which hurtles southwards here with unbridled force. What I discovered about the Mistral in Châteauneuf is every bit as true for the Tramontane in Empordà: it’s hard on humans, but all the signs are that the vines thrive on it.

Organic and biodynamic cultivation is relatively easy here, and old vines common (most Empordà vineyards are older than 30 years); it mitigates the fierce summer heat; and it helps bring the drama and concentration that are a feature of the wines (as well as a saline character on the exposed Cap de Creus). It’s even said to have been responsible for the creative madness of Salvador Dalí, who was born, lived and died in Empordà.

The Tramontane was blowing icily during my visit in early February – though somehow the almonds managed to flower in its teeth, leaving pink smudges in the wide perspectives and the crystal air.

Empordà’s vineyards today occupy about 2,000 ha. As in Priorat much further south, that’s just a fragment of the pre-phylloxera total, thought to have exceeded 25,000 ha here: the abandoned terraces are everywhere visible. There are two vineyard zones: a very windy northern part (Alt Empordà) close to Figueres and the Albères, and a distant southern zone (Baix Empordà) of more clay-rich vineyards loosely clustered around Palafrugell, where conditions are less windy. Some 90 per cent of production is from Alt Empordà.

After phylloxera, by the way, many of the hill farmers replanted their old vineyards with cork oaks, and some 15 per cent of global cork production now comes from the Costa Brava, with a particular emphasis on sparkling wine and Champagne corks. Empordà cork is said to be high in quality thanks to the slow growing conditions here.

As elsewhere in Catalonia, French varieties like Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah were planted in Empordà during the last decades of the twentieth century, but it wasn’t always a good idea. ‘We have some Cabernet vines,’ says Oriel Guevara from the steep, exposed vineyards of Hugas de Batlle, ‘which have never produced a berry in fifteen years. It’s just too tough. Wind, stone …’ he shrugged, and smiled.

The great varieties for red wines here (and red wines occupy 60% of plantings) are Carignan and Grenache; indeed the finest Empordà Carignan strikes me as some of the greatest I have ever tasted. Whites (based on Grenache Blanc and Gris, Carignan Blanc and Maccabeu) can be superb, too. There are, though, nomenclature problems.

Not so much with Grenache, generally known either as Lledoner here and on labels in its Catalan form Garnatxa, but certainly with Carignan. This is usually labelled Samsò here, despite this being more properly a Catalan form of the name Cinsaut.

Mazuelo (the name under which this variety is listed in Robinson, Harding and Vouillamoz’s Wine Grapes) is not used here, nor is the Catalan form Carinyena. Cariñena, meanwhile, is unavailable due to disagreements with the DO of the same name. (For simplicity’s sake, I have used the French versions of grape variety names in the notes which follow.)

The problems with Carignan Blanc are worse. “We’re in the land of surrealism,” said Gemma Roig of Mas Llunes, “and the surreal fact is that no one ever entered Carignan Blanc on the list of official varieties for Spain. So it doesn’t officially exist, and we can’t officially refer to it on labels.”

As in the rest of Greater Roussillon, there is also a tradition of fortified-wine production here, including rancio wines. These fascinating, complex, cultural wines are locally much treasured, though on my own scoresheet they struggle to compete with the unfortified wines, which are often clearly outstanding.

The Empordà renaissance is a relatively recent phenomenon; many older growers remember the difficulty of selling wines even to local consumers, most of whom were once unthinking Rioja-drinkers. All of that has now changed utterly, not least because of the extraordinarily high standard of local cuisine (ElBulli, remember, was a restaurant in Alt Empordà).

The sense of pride in Catalan identity has a gastronomic as well as a political dimension, and great food is usually predicated on a substrate of fine local ingredients, wine included.

The dynamic Josep Serra and his wife Marta Pedra of La Vinyeta, for example, were showing a group of local chefs around the property on the day I called; in addition to fine wines, they also produce olive oil, free-range eggs and are about to open a small cheese factory. ‘Girona has more than 20 Michelin stars,’ Josep pointed out, ‘and most of our sales are to restaurants.’

In the end, though, it’s the terroir that counts: the potential which ambition and effort can uncover. On the basis of this short initial visit, my view is that Empordà has a great future. Two months ago, I didn’t know that.

Tasting Empordà

In addition to the thirteen wines for which notes are given below, look out for others from Celler Martin Faixo, Celler Hugas de Batlle, AV Bodeguers, Cellers d’En Guilla, Celler Gerisena, Celler Terra Remota, Clos d’Agon and Mas Soller.

Mountain vineyards and arid summers often place heavy demands on Priorat's winemakers, but the results can be excellent. Sit back with a glass in-hand and read Andrew Jefford's report on a recent trip, plus see 15 of his favourite reds to try from this fascinating corner of Spain...

Scroll down to see Andrew’s top 15 Priorat reds – exclusively for Decanter Premium members

Priorat is a secret wine kingdom, hidden and remote. Its loneliness strikes you most clearly at night. You can prowl the constantly twisting roads and never see other headlights; turn off the engine, and the silence can make your ears ache. Even the dogs seem shy of barking. Perhaps they’re awed by the glitter of the stars.

If ever a place was destined to lure monks, this is it. The Carthusians had to find their way here – and they did, back in the 12th century.

They went to the furthest recesses of the region, hard up against the cliffs of Montsant, literally ‘the sacred mountain’. It’s a remote fastness, even today; back then it must have been wild enough to defy survival itself. What else should they call the spot they chose for their fragile little chartreuse but Escaladei, or ‘God’s ladder’? Not only did they survive, but they prospered to the extent that much of this inland island eventually became their dominion – hence its present-day name, and that of the wine it reluctantly surrenders.

Ask local winemakers to describe DOQ Priorat itself, and its relationship to the DO of Montsant which surrounds it, and most resort to the image of the fried egg. Montsant is the lower lying white; Priorat the domed, glowing yolk.

The image is so striking as to be irresistible. Don’t visualise the yolk, though, as gold – but dark brown, to reflect the dense, light-absorbing llicorella (variously translated as slate or schist, both of them interrelated metamorphic rocks), which dominates Priorat.

Nothing, meanwhile, could be less like a seamless yolky membrane than the bucking contours of the hills, which pack this fierce enclave. Every house here has a view that inspires. Or scares.

Splendid isolation

We’re in southern Catalonia, near Tarragona – but also far from Tarragona, with its dreary coastline and heavy chemical industry; a light year away in terms of topography; several biomes away as the landscape is dressed.

Few roads find their way into Priorat; most come knocking at the back door, the southern part of the region, close to Falset, the only small town hereabouts. From there, you climb into the secret kingdom and its 12 widely scattered little villages.

In pre-phylloxera days, when plantings were more extensive than today, the vineyards were often a day or two’s mule trek away. Vine-tenders would leave their village homes for a week to work.

I ask one wine-grower, sara Pérez of Mas Martinet and Venus La Universal, to describe Priorat to me. ‘Heavy, dark, intense,’ she says, ‘gravity; density. But also the sensation of vertigiousness, of rising and falling.’

She works in Priorat, but goes home every day (with some relief) to Montsant, where the generally limey soils are lighter in both colour and texture, the hills more muted, and the atmosphere conveyed by the landscape is gentler, less oppressive, less confronting. ‘In Priorat, the darkness absorbs the light. In Montsant, the light absorbs the darkness.’

What does all this mean in terms of aroma and flavour? We are, here, at a latitude roughly equivalent to Bari in Puglia, Italy. Priorat may lie in the northern half of Spain, but it is very definitely a southern European wine region.

The Consell Regulador’s 2010 climate figures for Torroja del Priorat in the centre of the region showed it had an average annual temperature of 14.5°C and average rainfall of 518mm (it’s been less in recent years); annual sunshine hours usually measure around 2,600. This puts it in the same league, for example, as France’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape, for which the equivalent figures are 14.8°C, 650mm and 2,800 hours.

The fact that the mountain of Montsant lies to the north of the region protects it from cold northern winds; indeed the region is surrounded by mountains to the east and the west, too, like a kind of protective horseshoe. Daytime temperatures regularly reach 40°C at some point or other in summer.

Grape selection

Given all of this, it should surprise no one that these are Big Wines.

Most of Priorat’s reds measure 14.5%-15.5% alcohol and Garnatxa (Garnacha or Grenache) can easily crest 16%. Garnatxa is the most widely planted Priorat variety, at 730ha of the DOQ total of 1,844ha; then comes Carinenya (Cariñena or Carignan, sometimes also called Samsó here): 510ha, Cabernet Sauvignon (234ha), Syrah (228ha) and Merlot (99ha).

The Bordeaux varieties and Syrah, by the way, are the legacy of the early years of the Priorat renaissance, back in the 1980s, when they were thought ‘more qualitative’ than the indigenous Garnatxa and Carinenya, but also in some sense necessary if Priorat was to be taken seriously as a fine wine region. No one thinks that today, and few are still planting these varieties, so they will gradually fade from the scene.

Don’t be prejudiced against wines that contain them. In a region like this, the stamp of origin will always eclipse varietal style; a Priorat Cabernet is Priorat first and foremost. These varieties also bring a certain intricacy of flavour to blends, and can outperform in cool vintages.

‘They give more than they risk,’ is the summary of Anne Cannan of Clos Figueras. If they are not being replanted, it’s because they struggle for balance both as plants and in terms of their fruit constitution. Neither Cabernet nor Syrah enjoys the often searingly dry Priorat summers, while in many sites Merlot sugar-ripens too quickly, leaving pyrazines in the skins.

There we are, I’ve said it: balance. Few questions of wine aesthetics are more discussed than this one at present, and it was a topic raised by almost every grower I spoke to in the region.

They’re aware that 15.5% on a label doesn’t necessarily play well in the international fine wine market any more – and yields are so low (usually 25hl/ha or less) and costs (especially labour) so high that Priorat must convince the market at £30 a bottle, or €15-€20 at source. That’s the break-even point here. The question of balance, though, is more than usually resistant to simple answers.

Hitting the heights

Before I outline some of the Priorat responses, let’s explore the physical texture of the place in more detail.

When you tiptoe into Priorat via Falset, you’ll find yourself at 350m above sea level; the lowest of the 12 villages, tiny El Molar on the southwestern boundary, sits at 200m. From there, the region gradually ramps up northwards, via Porrera and Gratallops via Torroja, the two Vilella villages and breezy Poboleda towards Escaladei and then Montsant mountain itself.

The highest village, La Morera de Montsant, lies at 780m; and Terroir al Límit’s Les Manyes vineyard, which straddles the northern boundary between Priorat and Montsant, lies at 900m. That makes 700m of altitude differential within the region: a huge span, with a commensurately dramatic effect on the constitution of musts and wines.

As a rule, you lose 1°C over the growing season for every 180m of altitude; a vineyard at 500m can often ripen up to two weeks later than one at 300m. It means that wines from the southern end of Montsant have a different, richer and softer style to those of the north, where the wines have more acidity, are more bracing in youth, and need longer to mature.

In any case, this is a region of marked diurnal temperature differences. According to the Consell Regulador, some locations in Priorat can reach daytime temperatures of 40°C, followed by night-time temperatures of 12°C: an astonishing range rarely matched elsewhere, in either hemisphere.

This, by the way, is an absolute contrast to conditions in Châteauneuf (or, for that matter, Bordeaux), where the altitude range is 23m-128m, and where diurnal temperature differences in summer are slight.

In search of balance

The result of these altitude and diurnal temperature differences is that Priorat wines rarely lack acidity, so if you’re one of those drinkers who defines ‘balance’ by reference to acidity, you’ll have no grounds for complaint.

In tasting a wide range of red Priorat wines for this article, indeed, it often seemed that the problems of balance came when high acidity was unaccompanied by central palate density, structure, flesh and texture; there are red wines here from higher altitudes and cooler sites which almost mimic the balance of Priorat whites.

There is a further threat, too. Not alcohol in itself, which plays a submissive, indeed supportive, note in wines with the innate concentration and drama of those of Priorat (a legacy of the region’s stony soils and generally extreme conditions), but any hint of raisiny fruit, and particularly raisiny fruit in conjunction with lavish oak: a drying combination, and one that hardly sits well with the sustained acidity of higher-altitude sites or stark diurnal temperature differences.

If there was a general failing of some of the most ambitious pioneer Priorats of the 1980s and 1990s, it was this. Few Priorat wines are raisiny or over-oaked today.

‘We don’t want the ripe, ripe grape,’ says Cokè Bálon Jiménez of Terroir al Límit. ‘We want the fresh grape.’ So in addition to seeking out higher altitude sites, the Terroir Al Límit response is to favour earlier picking – so early, indeed, that the team sometimes has difficulty matching Priorat’s minimum alcohol requirements (13% for white wines and 13.5% for reds).

Having switched from 300-litre barrels to larger foudres, Bálon and owner Dominik Huber are now moving away from wood altogether, towards concrete storage. ‘Big oak and big ripeness kills the fruit and kills the terroir,’ claims Bálon. This is a team that doesn’t destem grapes, either. One effect of whole-bunch fruit is to provide a sense of freshness.

Others in the younger generation are moving in the same direction: Pérez of Mas Martinet is ageing more and more of her wines in demijohns and amphorae rather than wood or concrete, and she is also favouring successive picking dates stretching over as much as a month-and-a-half.

It’s also striking how many of Priorat’s younger winemakers tend to prize the later-ripening, lower-alchohol and generally higher-acid Carinyena over Garnatxa, though historically esteem lay in the opposite direction. ‘The Garnatxa on top of the hills was all planted by the rich people of the region,’ says Pérez. ‘The poor people’s vines were the Carinyena planted at the bottom of the slopes.’ It’s now generally recognised that Carinyena can cope with the hottest sites more effectively than Garnatxa.

Down to earth

What everyone is agreed on, though, is that the best place to solve any issues of balance is not the cellar but the vineyard.

Ester Nin, who looks after the Clos Erasmus vineyards on behalf of Daphne Glorian, says they have had a programme since 1985 aimed at creating sloping rather than terraced vineyards which permit higher planting densities, and that they have been working biodynamically and with intensive use of composts (their own composts since 2012) in order to improve the life, vitality and responsiveness of the soils.

This work, according to Nin, has paid off over the last four years; in particular the vines don’t suffer from drought stress as they used to. ‘We have managed to pick grapes with lower potential alcohol and better acidity at maturity compared to what we used to get,’ she says. ‘The soils here are very difficult, with very low levels of organic matter, so the composts really help.’

Winemaker Bixente Oçafrain at Mas Alta voices the general concern that summers in Priorat are growing steadily warmer. Old vines and north-facing exposures, he says, help in the quest for balance (full ripening is possible on almost any open slope in Priorat), ‘but our choice is to go towards organic and biodynamic cultivation; that seems to be the best way to get balance in terms of freshness and acidity’. The Mas Alta team cultivated 6ha biodynamically last year (out of a total of 45ha), and will double that this year.

Search for identity

Bordeaux wine merchant Christopher Cannan was an early believer in the potential of Priorat, having traded the wines of many of the initial pioneers; he eventually bought his own estate, Clos Figueras near Gratallops, releasing the first wine in 2000. Since 2002 he has been joined by his daughter Anne, an observer of the Priorat scene who is wise enough to put all these questions in context.

‘In Spain,’ she says, ‘everyone is always comparing themselves to other people, but I think it’s misguided. You’re different: that’s what matters. When we first began here, there was a lot of similarity of aspiration and of approach; everyone was trying to make big, impressive wines. Now actually there is a revolution, and everyone is doing things differently; everything is changing. It’s the start of finding out what Priorat really is.

‘It’s a bit like adolescence: one day you cry because you want to be like everybody else, and the next day you cry because you want to be different.’ So what does she, a woman brought up on Bordeaux and other global fine wines, think Priorat really is? ‘Priorat will always be full-bodied. If you want to try to make Burgundy here, you will always be fighting with nature.’

On the last afternoon of my visit, I stood up on the high costers (slopes) of Poboleda with Sandra Doix of Mas Doix, whose family has lived in the region for many generations. Her oldest Carinyena vines were planted by her great-great-grandfather, who remembered the village in its pre-phylloxera heyday when it had 2,000 inhabitants; today there are just 374.

Rounded masses of stone fell away on every side, and a cold dusk wind was tugging the last leaves of autumn from the sparsely planted vines. Those we were looking at were 110 years old; I wouldn’t have guessed they were any more than 30. A tough life means a thin trunk.

The family did plant Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, but they are now gradually grafting the Cabernet and the Merlot back to Garnatxa and Carinyena. ‘It’s so hard for anything to grow here. We realised in the end that the traditional varieties are the best ones.’

‘Balance?’ she said, in answer to my question. ‘It comes from the fruit; only there.’ She looked around, in the fading November light. ‘We’re at almost 600m here; it’s always breezy because of the river Siurana, so we have a lot of acidity; sometimes I worry it’s too much. The key is to wait until the skins are truly ripe; that’s when you get the really good flavours, no matter what the sugars are. That is the sense of Priorat. We can’t have much impact on these vineyards; the landscape is too big and we’re too small. What we have to do is observe them, interpret them. But they will be what they are.’

Andrew’s top 15 Priorat reds:

A Decanter contributing editor, Andrew Jefford won the Louis Roederer International Columnist of 2016 for articles in Decanter and Decanter.com

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Priorat is going for it; Sancerre is holding back. Andrew Jefford considers the two approaches.

Driving licence, passport, voting card: these are the familiar symbols of human adulthood. Might, though, wine regions come of age? If so, what would symbolize that?

If my recent travels are a guide, many wine regions only consider themselves adult when they can boast a cru system of their own. When, in other words, certain zones, villages or vineyards are plucked from the mass for elevation: the badge, it’s felt, of a ‘real region’.

Burgundy’s famous pyramid (regional appellations, village appellations, Premiers Crus and finally Grands Crus) often glimmers, grail-like, as the model to follow, despite the fact that it is too elaborate for most regions. This is, nonetheless, the route that Priorat intends to follow: the first Spanish region to embrace internal classification to that extent. (See the end of this blog for a full description of the proposed system for Priorat.) France’s Sancerre, by contrast, has often considered the institution of a cru system, but so far has held back. Why? What’s at stake? What are the pros and cons?

The view from Priorat

The Priorat DOCa regional chairman, Salus Álvarez, gave me a practical justification for the region’s pursuit of its new system. “We have a lot of small cellars producing just 40-50,000 bottles a year,” he said. “We have to find a way for them to make a living, and the best solution is a focus on terroir. Moreover it is easy for us to do that, as we have no large producers here to placate. But we realize that total traceability of every product in every year is vital. We have invested a lot in that; it was only because we are so tiny that it was possible. Wine is a product which can take the name of your vineyard all over the world, with all the prestige and renown which goes with that. That’s what we need. It means that a small grower can then live from a few hectares of low-yielding vines.”

Opinions about the merits of the system in Priorat are mixed. Some, like Jordi Vidal of La Conreria, were firmly in favour of it: “there are some vineyards here that just have to be made alone. The only challenge is that it takes 20 years to discover where they are.” Others, though broadly welcoming, had reservations. “A Grand Cru for a Garnatxa will never be the same as a Grand Cru for a Carinyena,” pointed out Sara Pérez of Mas Martinet. “I’ve worked with fruit from different villages,” says Sandra Doix of Mas Doix, “and it’s true that there are differences. But what really matters is the winemaker’s spirit, and you can’t regulate for that.” “We need more time,” suggests Pérez. “For me, it’s a copy of other regions. It needs to reflect our reality, or it will never be true.”

The view from Sancerre

The quality revolution is so recent in Priorat that you could argue, with Pérez, that the institution of such a detailed system is premature – yet the experience of Sancerre, in fact, suggests the opposite: that early legislation is desirable. “The question of crus has been posed many times,” Alphonse Mellot Jnr told me recently. “But we all work very well together in the region at present, and if you introduce a cru system that will no longer be true.” Luc Prieur made the point more forcefully. “A vineyard isn’t just a vineyard; it’s also the man or woman who looks after it. If you classify now, you will write a huge cheque to people who never worked hard, who never did anything for the region, whereas some of those who have worked very hard may get nothing at all.” With hindsight, the 1950s might have been the perfect period to classify Sancerre’s best sites, since the stakes were much lower then. The stakes are now so high that instituting a cru system faces the ultimate political challenge: that of mollifying losers as well as rewarding winners. This, of course, is why expanding Champagne’s growing zone is such a headache, and why the regular revisions of St Emilion’s classification system chiefly benefits lawyers.

There are other reasons, too, to believe that the existing use of lieu-dit names on labels may actually be more beneficial in practical terms to Sancerre than a fully-fledged, legally sanctified cru system, as an outstanding 2017 Master of Wine dissertation paper, that of Catherine Petrie M.W. of the UK merchant Goedhuis, makes clear (see the end of this blog for details).

Petrie looked at three lieux-dits in particular, Les Monts Damnés, Les Culs de Beaujeu and Chêne Marchand, and showed that wine from these sites enjoyed a price uplift of between 59 per cent (Chêne Marchand) and 95 per cent (Culs de Beaujeu) in the 2014 vintage, even without the benefit of official cru status. Over a five-year period, the price uplift for the three lieu-dit wines was 14 per cent, compared to 10 per cent for ‘ordinary’ Sancerre. Since the lieu-dit wines are on steep slopes, they have a lower average yield than ordinary Sancerre, but Petrie shows that even in terms of euros per hectare they still achieved between 40 per cent (Chêne Marchard) and 80 per cent (Culs de Beaujeu) price uplift in 2014.

Now consider what might change were an official cru system to be instituted. Petrie uses Alsace as analogy, where the Grand Cru regulations require a maximum yield 31 per cent or 25 hl/ha lower than for AOP Alsace; she also shows that the cru systems of Quarts de Chaume, Coteaux du Layon, Cairanne and Chablis, as well as the proposed system for Pouilly-Fuissé, require lower yields. (As, by the way, does Priorat’s system – see the end of this blog.) Were Sancerre to adopt reductions similar to those which operate in Alsace, the price uplift would fall to just 17 per cent: a considerable disincentive to classifying.

There may be other advantages to the existing system, too. At the moment, lieu-dit names can be used providing they exist in the local land register (le cadastre) and the grower can prove traceability. This is administered under the code rural by local customs officers but not, significantly, enforced by the INAO; it is, in effect, optional. Grower honesty is therefore paramount since, as Petrie points out, the dishonest might “flout this requirement without reprisal”. The situation is even more fluid when it comes to the entirely unregulated use of terroir terms like ‘silex’ (flint) or ‘caillottes’ (limestone pebbles). As Petrie once again points out, silex “is the least dominant of the major soil types in the region”, but it is also “clearly the most popular soil name used” in this way. Classification would require rules, with inspection and justification; not every grower would welcome this.

It’s also possible that classification may not aid comprehension

Salus Álvarez made the point that classification fosters the global esteem of a region, and helps consumers to understand a region’s nuances. Sancerre, though, already enjoys enviable global esteem: it exports 60 per cent of its production to 124 countries, and the quality of installations in leading Sancerre leading growers’ cellars testifies to the region’s prosperity.

It’s also possible that classification may not aid comprehension. I fear that the amount of fierce Catalan verbiage which the new Priorat system will put onto labels may puzzle and bemuse as much as enlighten. The Catalan word for village (‘vila’) may sound to non-Catalans like a villa or a house; ‘paratge’ is a mouthful; and ‘vinya’ (vineyard) may sound to non-Catalans like a word for wine itself.

The conclusion, then, is that the benefits of the adoption of a cru system are not automatic and uniform. My soundings in Sancerre, and the carefully assembled data from Petrie’s paper, suggest that classification there is unlikely, since the status quo works admirably well for most. Priorat’s ambitious system may help a region where the economic stakes are, for the time being, lower than in Sancerre – though a considerable educational push will be required, and the system is never likely to eclipse the force of the individual grower’s name.

Priorat’s proposed classification

Priorat already has ‘village wines’ – look out for the term Vi de Vila on labels (35 wines used this term in 2017) plus the name of one of the 11 villages which make up the DOCa as well as ‘Masos de Falset’ for the Falset Priorat vineyards (Falset itself lies in Montsant). Vi de Paratge might be the next term up, for wines from a locality or zone which is smaller than a village but larger than a single vineyard. Vi de Vinya would be single vineyard wines, roughly equivalent to Premier Cru, and Gran Vi de Vinya for Grand Cru-level wines. Each level of the classification would require a reduction in yield from the existing DOCa limit of 6,000 kg/ha: 4,000 kg/ha for Vi de Paratge and Vi de Vinya, and 2,500 kg/ha for Gran Vi de Vinya. Vines would have to be at least 15 years old for Vi de Paratge, 20 years old for Vi de Vinya and 35 years old for Gran Vi de Vinya and, significantly, this final category will only be available for wines based on Garnatxa or Carinenya alone.

Catherine Petrie’s research paper is called Sancerre’s single vineyard wines versus formal cru classification systems: An investigation of Les Monts Damnés, Les Culs de Beaujeu, and Chêne Marchand. (2017). Recent MW research papers can be consulted on application to the Institute of Masters of Wine.

Read more Andrew Jefford columns on Decanter.com here

Andrew Jefford discovers the other face of Priorat.

Winegrowers tease a landscape into performance … then ask questions of it. The answers are always provisional, though they may not feel so. Grape varieties adapt and evolve; climates modulate; over the long term, even the shape of the hills will change. This interrogative adventure should prove one of the most joyful ways in which we can interact, over millennia, with our planet — supposing, that is, that we can find a way of making our sudden and overwhelming presence on earth sustainable.

Priorat’s landscape lends itself to speculations of this kind. You’ve journeyed from some comfortable domestic familiarity; suddenly you find yourself in a wild, lonely chaos of hills, rocks, light and wind. The press of faces and physiques drain away; the roads fall silent; nature’s odours slide from the hills. Sun, moon and stars become actors in your life. The little villages seem almost vulnerable, clinging to their footholds, wherever a trickle of water can be found. The landscape has not gobbled them up yet – but you feel it could, and tracelessly.

The commensurate drama of Priorat’s reds is well-known, and in itself subject to much questioning, as I will be outlining in a feature in next March’s edition of Decanter magazine and on Decanter Premium. Today, though, let’s consider Priorat’s ‘three per centers’: its whites.

One reason for a close look at these is their diagnostic energy. This is something they share with the red wines, derived from a birthright intensity of fruit. Red wines, though, have to wear the polyphenolic cloak which comes from maceration and extraction – and that in turn implies a suite of decisions about élevage, all of which can mark the wines in one way or another. That is less true of the whites, whose energy often seems to emerge without artifice. It’s all the more striking given the fact that the key white grape variety here, with 40 per cent of plantings, is Garnacha (or Garnatxa in Catalan) Blanca, one that is often passive and even torpid elsewhere. Other officially approved varieties include Macabeo, PX and Chenin, but there are rarer varieties too like Picapoll and Trepat. The well-adapted Cariñena Blanca has yet to be approved, though it has been long present here and is admired as a blending component.

A second reason for that close look is the intrinsic balance and finesse of Priorat whites. The stony rubble which passes for soil (usually slate or schist though sometimes limestone, too) and the altitude and its implications for diurnal temperature variations seems to give white Priorat, when sensitively handled, aromatic nuance, a subtle but sustained acid balance, and a beguiling unfruitiness of flavour.

Priorat’s wine-growers, consequently, are beginning to ask whether they shouldn’t be making more white wine and less red. “Many people here,” says Miguel Compte of Clos Figueras, “are beginning to say that white wines might be the future of Priorat.” “Lots more people are now working with whites,” confirms Cokè Bálon Jiménez of Terroir al Límit. “There has been a lot of opening of minds.” “They’re becoming more and more important, but they need time,” cautions the thoughtful Sara Pérez of Mas Martinet, who has made a very fine though as-yet-unreleased white at her home domain for some years now, as well as another white (under the Partida Bellvisos label) with her partner René Barbier Jnr – who says in turn that at Clos Mogador, his own family business, the eventual aim is for 50 per cent white wine.

At the moment, there are a wide variety of different approaches to white-wine making in Priorat, which is exactly as it should be. The avant-garde, like Terroir al Limit and Sara Pérez and René Barbier Jnr, are using low sulphur levels, skin contact and (in the case of Terroir al Limit) whole bunch fermentation. Avant-garde? In fact there is an artisanal Priorat tradition of white-wine production with skin contact called Brisat, and in most ways these new wines reflect those age-old traditions more closely than do the ‘conventional’ wines of our times.

Another approach is that taken by Jordi Vidal Pardenilla at La Conreria d’Scala Dei. La Conreria was always unusual in that it had 70 per cent of white grapes when first founded in 1997, and still produces 40 per cent white. “Garnacha Blanca,” says Vidal, “is in some ways a weak and fragile variety, but it has the advantage of many possibilities. You can do exactly what you want with it if you are prepared to take risks.” He produces two styles – one conventional, but one (Iugiter Les Brugueres) which uses two to three days’ cool skin maceration to produce a white with an extraordinary fresh sappiness to it, as if the Grenache Blanc of Priorat was dreaming of becoming a transgender Sauvignon Blanc. It sounds strange, but it works.

In the final analysis, though, the sites here are so outstanding that you can hardly do better than respect those to the maximum with pure and limpid winemaking in conventional guise. Full notes are given below, but I was lucky enough to taste the fine La Solana Alta, crafted by Bixente Oçafrain at Mas Alta, not in the confines of the cellar but high up in the vineyard itself, looking out in late October sunlight across the valley to the village of Vilella Alta, and the echoing contours of a dozen or more hillside flanks falling away in every direction. Red wines have mass and substance, and in this they seem to echo the earth. Here, though, we stood in the upper air; a rogue gust or two could have swept us off, like awkward fledglings. White wine had the measure of the moment.

Tasting White Priorat

Mas Alta, Artigas Blanc 2015

Mas Alta’s second white wine contains Pedro Ximenez and Macabeu as well as Garnacha Blanca, and is grown on a variety of soil types. Its scent is less refined that the top wine La Solana Alta (see below), with notes of wet clay and cistus; the palate has plenty of cut and edge, with muted but enticing fruits perfectly spliced to the wine’s ample but soft-contoured acidity. 91

Mas Alta, La Solana Alta 2014

This wine is preponderantly barrel-fermented Garnacha Blanca grown on pure llicorella (slate) with just a dash of Cariñena Blanca; malolactic is blocked. A bright gold in colour, with scents and flavours of lemon, cistus, fruit blossom and pounded almond. It’s mouthfilling, stony and plump, with delicious richness yet bright freshness, too; the aromatic elements are very finely drawn and expressive. An outstanding, fine-dining white wine. (The 2015 is just as good, but needs a little longer to acquire full articulacy.) 95

Garnatxa Blanca en Sòl de Llicorella, Partida Bellvisos 2011

A chance to look at an aged though unsulphured version of René Barbier and Sara Pérez’s white wine, made with 20 per cent skin contact. There’s no oxidation, despite the lack of sulphur, with scents of straw and dry grasses and ample, juicy yellow–plum fruit on the palate: it’s a full-bodied, comforting, knife-and-fork orange-white.  91

Les Brugueres, Iugiter, La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2016

This pure Garnacha Blanca wine has fresh, sappy scents with a subtle quince sweetness to them, then long, sappy, vigorous, ripely green flavours, juicy and intense, back up by a stony trace; vinous, ample finish.  90

Font de la Figuera, Clos Figueras 2016

There’s just 35 per cent Garnacha Blanca here (the vines are 100 years old), with 50 per cent Viognier — planted in error after a local nurseryman sold it as Cabernet Sauvignon — and the balance coming from Chenin Blanc. The rather heavy aromas suggest that Viognier may not be happy here, and the palate lacks a little purity and focus. On the plus side, this is a concentrated wine with some stoniness and balancing acidity; it has the ingrained Priorat seriousness to it, too.  88

Vi Blanc des Varietats Antigues, Planetes de Nin, Família Nin-Ortiz 2016

The cork says ‘Carinyena Blanc’ but the label reference defers to the currently anomalous situation of this white variety here. It’s late ripening and retains its acidity – as is amply evident in this version from the Clos Erasmus viticulturalist Ester Nin at the ‘home’ winery she runs with her husband Carles. The wine is lemony, cleansing, finely crafted and long, but flirts with austerity and shows no trace of vinosity or incipient richness at all, suggesting to me that this variety’s potential here might best be as a useful minority blending component. 89 

Terroir de Cuques, Terroir al Límit 2015

A very different blend from most of its peers, this is 90% directly pressed Pedro Ximenez blended with whole-bunch fermented Muscat. You wouldn’t necessarily guess this from the aromas, which suggests plants and straw; the palate is fresh, vinous and structured, with more straw and a little delicate yellow plum.  90 

Terroir Historic, Terroir al Límit 2016

This white is a blend of 75% Garnacha Blanco and 25% Macabeo sourced from Priorat’s nine historical villages, and made by the Terroir al Límit team in the cooperative of Torroja with no wood influence. There’s some faint reduction on the aromas; the palate is long and chewy, with vivid acidity but muted fruit character (peach and straw).  88

Abracadabra, Trossos del Priorat 2016

This blend of 70-year-old Garnacha Blanc and Macabeu is packed with white fruits: quiety expressive aromatically, but much more exuberant on the palate: chewy, dramatic, reverberative, high focus, pointed up with peach-skin pungency.  90

Read more Andrew Jefford columns on Decanter.com here

Directors at the holding company of Cava producer Codorníu have reportedly agreed to move their head office address from Catalonia to Rioja as political tension mounts over the region's independence vote. Read more below and see Miquel Hudin's commentary on what independence might mean for the region's winemakers.

Codorníu holding company Unideco released a statement on Monday (16 October) to announce that its board of directors has agreed to move the Cava maker’s registered office address to Haro in Rioja, according to widespread reports across Spanish media outlets.

The decision was due to ongoing ‘political and legal uncertainty’ in Catalonia following the region’s controversial independence referendum, reported Spanish newspaper El País, quoting directly from the company’s statement.

However, it was not certain that Codorníu would go ahead with the move.

It also clarified that it was not changing anything about its operational structure in Catalonia.

Rival Cava producer Freixenet has also suggested that it could move its headquarters if Catalonia’s government declares independence from Spain.

Protests erupted in Barcelona and across Catalonia on Tuesday 17 October after Spain’s high court ruled to detain two prominent independence proponents, Jordi Sánchez and Jordi Cuixart.

Wineries, like other business, have been caught up in the uncertainty that has accompanied the present stand-off between Madrid and Catalonia.

There are 10,000 wine grape growers in Catalonia and 853 wine companies, with combined annual sales of 1.6 billion euros, according to the region’s government.

What might independence mean for wine in Catalonia?

Commentary by Miquel Hudin

Catalonia is not Spain’s largest area in terms of production; that would be Castilla la Mancha by a factor of four in terms of export volume.

Catalonia – or Catalunya – makes up around 8% of Spain’s wine exports by volume, with half of this comprised of Cava, based on the latest figures produced by wine industry statistics body OEMV, for 2015.

But, Catalan producers generate about 22% of Spanish wine export revenues, which monetarily puts it on par with Castilla la Mancha.

A loss of this income, which totaled some 648 million euros in 2015, would potentially be a serious blow to Spain.

However, there would be several immediate problems for Catalonia, too. Spain could claim rights to the Cava name, because it is a DO defined by ‘process’ rather than region – even though 95% of Cava wines are made in Penedes, according to the Court of Master Sommeliers.

Producers in Catalonia would also face the prospect of competing in a crowded market outside of Spain and potentially the EU. European Officials have said that the referendum is an internal Spanish issue, but the Commission did say that the vote was not legal under the Spanish Constitution.

There is nothing to say these obstacles are insurmountable but they and others are potential issues if there is to be an independent Republic of Catalunya.

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Find out why it has legendary status...

Alvaro Palacios, L’Ermita 1993: The Facts

Bottles produced 500

Composition 90% Garnacha, 7% Cariñena and 3% white grapes

Yield 5hl/ha

Alcohol 14%

Release price N/A

Current price £203

A legend because…

This was the first vintage of what was rapidly to become Priorat’s most famous wine. Although the region had been producing wine for many decades, with Carthusian monks in the forefront of vineyard owners, the steep and rocky terrain made it difficult to cultivate profitably, and many vineyards were being abandoned. It took the vision of a handful of winemakers in the late 1980s to recognise the extraordinary potential of the region.

Looking back

The revival of Priorat began as recently as 1989, when René Barbier recognised the potential of the amazing, steep, schist soils that give Priorat its typicity. By then the area under vine had dwindled to 600 hectares and appeared to be in terminal decline. Barbier was joined by other pioneers, such as José Luis Pérez and Daphne Glorian. They were joined by Alvaro Palacios, who soon began producing exceptional wines from a number of single vineyards such as Finca Dofí, which he acquired in 1990. It soon became clear that the L’Ermita vineyard was the finest of them all.

The people

Palacios was born into a Rioja winemaking family. But as one of nine siblings, he found it prudent to focus on other historically great vineyard regions; in particular he was keen to rediscover abandoned vineyards. After working with Christian Moueix in Bordeaux, he travelled to Priorat in 1989. At the time the region was not well known, but L’Ermita and a handful of other wines soon demonstrated the fabulous quality of which Priorat was capable.

The vintage

1993 was a fine vintage in Priorat. Growers had a scare in early October when abundant rain fell, but the L’Ermita grapes were still not ripe thanks to an exceptionally dry summer. After another shower on 17 October, Palacios decided that the grapes had reached optimal ripeness, and harvested over the next two days. The 1993 vintage has not had the recognition it deserves, overshadowed by the excellent vintage in 1994.

The terroir

The very steep L’Ermita vineyard, near the village of Gratallops, was planted with bush vines in 1910 and 1940. In 1993 it occupied 1.7ha, and though in 1996 it was expanded to 4.5ha, those newer plantings are still not used in the L’Ermita blend. The soil is schist (known locally as llicorella) and the vines grow in an amphitheatre at an elevation of 400m to 520m, facing north and east. The exposition is not ideal, but its relative coolness accounts for the wine’s fragrance. Cabernet Sauvignon was a more recent planting here. The blend is 90% Garnacha, 7% Cariñena and 3% white grapes. The vines, now 73 years old, are farmed biodynamically. Horses and mules are used to cultivate the site, due to its extreme steepness.

The wine

The grapes are often picked by selective harvesting, with up to three passages through the vines to ensure that only the ripest, best fruit is harvested. There is a further sorting at the winery. The bunches are destemmed by hand, then fermented in wooden vats with punching down of the cap; after 45 to 50 days on the skins the wine is pressed, and malolactic fermentation takes place in barrels. The wine is aged for 18 months in new oak, and is bottled after egg white fining, but there is no filtration. Around 500 to 1,800 bottles are produced today.

The reaction

Because of its tiny production and limited renown, reviews on release of L’Ermita’s first vintage were scarce. In 1998, the late John Radford enthused that L’Ermita was ‘arguably Spain’s finest red wine, and certainly its most expensive.’ US wine critic Jeff Leve noted in 2013: ‘Dry, overly oaked, with fresh, bright, wild strawberry, cherry and wet earth characteristics… Perhaps this was better in its youth.’ Indeed, Ferran Centelles, former sommelier at El Bulli, which listed the wine, recalls the 1993 as ‘very classical, with lots of forest floor, very ripe fruit, a mature nose, already at its peak’.

A group of pensioners from Barcelona has accidentally wrecked 200 vines up to 50 years old by driving into vineyards after getting lost looking for a local restaurant.

Drivers destroy vines up to 50 years old

The accident happened at lunchtime during a weekend in February, after a group of retired Barcelonians driving five different SUVs misinterpreted their GPS when looking for a restaurant in the village of El Vilet in Catalonia, Spain.

Turning down a dirt road through local vineyards, they realised their error but became stuck in the mud when trying to turn around.

In the process of getting out, they destroyed 200 vines of 25 to 50 year-old Macabeu owned by eight different growers and caused approximately €8,000 in total damages.

One of the viticulturists, Ramon Serra, was quoted by local media as saying, ‘We constantly have to fight against rabbits, wild boars, and above all comes this, a most disagreeable surprise.’

Another viticulturist, Ana Cèlia Esteve, said she was initially furious after the group appeared to have driven off without notifying anyone.

‘People [on social media] said that I was against tourists from the city coming out to Vall de Riu Corb, but this is completely untrue. I am happy to welcome people who want to visit our region.’

Three of the eight viticulturists contacted local police, who spotted five SUVs covered in mud at a local restaurant.

Esteve said compensation has been paid to the three winemakers who complained to police.

The vineyards reside in the village of Sant Martí de Maldà, in the Vall del Riu Corb subzone of DO Costers del Segre, Catalonia’s most interior appellation that is well-known for its white wines. It’s also a popular destination for weekenders due to its unspoilt nature, gastronomy and tranquility.

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