It’s the end of a long day. The sun is setting over the ocean in a smug riot of pastels. I’ve been bombarding Larry Cherubino with wine questions all day, so now opt for a different approach.

How would he describe his driving over the hundreds of kilometres we’ve travelled today from the Great Southern to Margaret River? He takes a steeling gulp of beer.

‘Erratic,’ he deadpans. Then breaks into a broad, winning grin.

See below for Peter’s notes and scores for Larry Cherubino wines

Erratic. It’s a fair summary. A somewhat jittery approach to both wheel and pedal has been noticeable. The towering aerial on the bonnet enables Cherubino to conduct non-stop calls (his wife, his colleagues, his estate agent).

Regular pit-stops range from showing me vineyards to foraging wheat and banksia flowers for decor at his restaurant.

Cherubino’s laid-back commentary provides the sound-track, covering everything from clonal diversity to getting locked out of his house (hence the estate agent). Peppering the commentary are phrases like ‘you gotta stick to your knitting’ and ‘far out!’

On a road trip, you get to know someone. Cherubino has a busy mind. His easy manner and self-deprecating charm are underpinned by a restless energy that can prove unsettling as well as engaging.

At times, his frustration bubbles over.

The evolution of Australian wine

‘Australian wine is as good as it’s ever been, but we’re just not getting the message out like we should,’ he retorts to a question. ‘At some point we need to stop selling ourselves short,’ he continues.

‘People have this concept of Australian wine [but] the whole industry is being redefined. You can’t jump a chasm in two leaps – we’ve just got to go for it, stick with it, and hopefully not go bust in the process!’

Add ambition into the mix. At which point we should probably take a step back to consider the bigger picture. Australian wine has had a rough time lately. Buffetings have come courtesy not just of the climate (floods, wildfires, frosts) but also markets.

China slapped 200%-plus tariffs on Australian wine imports from 2020-2024 over a wider diplomatic spat. The aura of relentless dynamism and momentum around Australian wine that captivated wine drinkers the world over seems to have lost some of its lustre.

And yet, as Cherubino points out, such sweeping generalisations belie the reality on the ground. Which is that, following on from the Australian wine boom of the late 20th century, the cheerful oceans of ‘sunshine in a glass’ have been swiftly followed by a revolution in the vineyards.

Once Aussie winemakers gleefully stuck two fingers up to stuffy Eurocentric notions of terroir, soils and appellations. But now the talk is all about how to craft unique wines from specific sites. Quality and diversity are at an all-time high.

‘Australian wine has evolved,’ reflects Cherubino. ‘Now we’re selling dirt. We talk less and less about technique. It’s all about the vineyard these days.’

Journey into wine

And this is a man who has lived the change. Originally trained in horticulture, Cherubino fell into wine in the early 1990s. He learned the importance of details and multi-tasking from French flying winemaker Jacques Lurton in Bordeaux – and beyond.

In Australia, he worked for Hardys and also Western Australian stalwart Houghton, famed for its historic White Burgundy label. Cherubino jokes that he’s made more ‘white burgundy’ than any Burgundian.

Although he was brought up in what he terms the ‘technical era’ of Australian wine, he now says: ‘I don’t make wine like that any more.’

Having set up his own wine company in 2004 with his wife Edwina, he farms around 230ha of vines in Western Australia: across Frankland River (120ha), Pemberton (70ha) and Margaret River (40ha).

Go west

With Australia’s shift to quality over quantity, Western Australia has grown in prominence. The region represents 3% by volume but 7% by value of Australia’s total crush, and has an outsize presence when it comes to the country’s upmarket wines.

When I ask Cherubino to summarise what wines from this part of the world offer, ‘clarity’ is the first word on his lips. This is followed by talk of the pristine environment and oceanic influence. ‘If you have to try too hard to grow something, it means you shouldn’t be doing it,’ he says.

‘Here there’s a bunch of varieties that we excel with, so don’t have to try too hard.’

Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon top the list of such varieties, particularly in Margaret River. You might add Pinot Noir in Pemberton, or Riesling in Great Southern.

As a region Great Southern is particularly hard to concisely encapsulate, given its diversity in climate, soil and human design. What’s more, it’s evolving.

Cherubino, for example, has planted varieties as diverse as Fiano, Arneis, Counoise, Touriga Nacional, Nebbiolo, Mencía and Grenache in Frankland River. He’s also road-testing different clones, for example of Chardonnay.

‘People say I’m wasting my time, but that 1-2% difference at the top end is all about genetics,’ he comments.

Winemaking philosophy

The questing mentality, a somewhat obsessive focus on detail, is very much part of the Cherubino approach. It’s what makes him a successful winemaking consultant around the world (though he does less of this now, tending to focus more on his own projects). It’s also timely given the way in which Australian wine is evolving.

So what’s his approach to the top-billing grapes? He’s dismissive of what he sees as the trend to ‘light-weighting’ Chardonnay. ‘The whole point of eating or drinking something is that it’s flavoursome,’ he argues.

‘Chardonnay must have flavour. There’s nothing better than biting into a tree-ripened piece of fruit that’s still got acidity, but it has flavour as well.’

All sides of Cabernet

And Cabernet? ‘We’ve got a real aversion to tannin, to wines with earthy, stony characters in Australia. But there’s good earth and bad earth,’ he explains. ‘We shouldn’t be afraid of showing that side of Cabernet.

A lot of people compare Margaret River Cabernet to Bordeaux – sometimes I think it’s got more in common with Bolgheri. If you look at the early Margaret River Cabs, they’re defined by this dusty red earth [character]. That’s what the soil’s like.’

As for how his winemaking has changed over time, he points to the importance of tasting widely, vine health and hard work. Talking Chardonnay, he says: ‘I don’t want to be the best in Western Australia, I want to compete with the best in the world.’

Is that a reality now, I ask? ‘I think we’re getting there. We need to be aware of what’s happening globally with wine.’ Is bravery needed? ‘The less you rely on techniques, the more exposed you are. If you’re gonna sing solo without any instruments, you’d better be good.’

A sustainable future

Sustainability is also on Cherubino’s agenda. His vineyards are certified carbon neutral. To take one example, he’s been working on improving soil structure by increasing organic matter. Soil carbon levels have duly risen from 2% to 6%.

The improved structure retains moisture better so he now uses 20% less water these days, a vital saving for a precious resource in Frankland River. ‘We’ve got better things to do with our water than selling wines below cost,’ he quips.

As for the future? In 2025, Cherubino is celebrating 20 years since the first harvest of his own project. With his two cellar doors in Margaret River, including a re-launched restaurant (Masseria: ‘elevated Italian’), a wine bar in Perth and importing business, plus his vineyard portfolio and global travel, he won’t be short of things to keep him busy.

He may describe his driving as erratic, but the word’s origins also conceal an intriguing nod towards wandering and adventure.

‘Anyone who owns a vineyard is a farmer,’ he rues. ‘And if you own a winery, you’re a fancy farmer. But not all of us are Jeremy Clarkson – we can’t all have a TV show and promote the hell out of ourselves.

We’re realists here in Western Australia. We’re pretty far from everything. We’ve just got to believe we’re making a great product – and then we’ve got to stick to our knitting.’

10 Larry Cherubino wines to try

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To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Trefiano – Tenuta di Capezzana’s stunning take on Carmignano Riserva – a vertical tasting of a handful of vintages ranging from 1988 to 2019 (the current release) was held in Florence this February.

In preparation for the tasting, I opened a bottle of the 2015 from my own cellar, so I have included my impression of that below, along with the wines from the tasting. Spoiler alert: Trefiano, like other great wines, takes at least a decade to reveal its considerable charms and stature.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the Capezzana Trefiano

Carmignano, the original ‘Super Tuscan’, is the only DOCG that has always required blending Sangiovese with Cabernet, with Sangiovese comprising at least 50% of the blend. Cabernet — either Franc or Sauvignon — must comprise at least 10% but no more than 20%. Today, most producers favour Cabernet Sauvignon over Cabernet Franc.

Although Carmignano falls within the greater Chianti area and the same grapes can be used for the wines, Carmignano typically displays more structure, minerality, and savoury features, along with a panoply of red and dark fruit flavours.

Of the 20 or so producers in this small, 116-hectare DOCG, Tenuta di Capezzana – owned by the Contini Bonacossi family – is at the top of the heap. Filippo Contini Bonacossi, who describes his role at the estate as, ‘a little bit of everything,’ explains that their location in front of the Apennines affords them rain in late August, which he says, ‘is precious for elegant wines,’ adding that their ‘microclimate of wind and rain is crucial.’ He emphasises the water-holding ability of the clay in the soil, which has been especially helpful in the last few dry vintages.

Winemakers use their best grapes for Carmignano Riserva, which must be aged for three years before release – a year longer than for Carmignano. With more structure and wood influence, Riservas need more bottle ageing to show their grandeur, making them good candidates for the cellar.

Villa di Trefiano

The grapes for Capezzana’s Trefiano Carmignano Riserva come from a small five-hectare site that surrounds the villa of the same name, built in the 16th century by Florentine aristocrat, Giovanni di Pandolfo Rucellai.

The Contini Bonacossi family acquired Villa di Trefiano and its vines shortly after purchasing Tenuta di Capezzana in the 1920s. The site includes three distinct parcels: two larger ones, Le Croci and Pietraia; and a smaller one named after the villa itself. Here, all three varieties used for Trefiano are grown: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo.

Filippo points to the need to continue working on softening Sangiovese’s tannins, whose firmness can be accentuated when the grape is stressed by heat and dryness. He explains that the Cabernet Sauvignon vines originally came from Château Lafite-Rothschild and are a massale selection. With a broad smile he says: ‘Plants know how to evolve, better than we! They have a memory.’

Hector Contini Bonacossi, whose mother, Benedetta, is the estate’s winemaker, notes that their Canaiolo is a unique biotype, Canaiolo Rossa Raspo, named because the stalks (raspo, in Italian) are red. It adds colour, and its lower acidity balances and enhances the cherry-like fruitiness of Sangiovese, and they believe it adds elegance to the wine.

He describes the site as having a, ‘chaotic soil composition, which enhances the different notes in the glass,’ while Beatrice Contini Bonacossi, the commercial face and ambassador of the estate, underlines the uniqueness of the site by describing it as a ‘microclimate within a microclimate.’

Trefiano in the cellar

Since 2008, Trefiano has been farmed organically, and the entire Capezzana estate received organic certification in 2015. Since the varieties ripen at different times, they are fermented separately, always using native yeasts, before being blended.

The blend is consistent from year to year: 80% Sangiovese, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo each contributing 10%. Ageing occurs in 350-litre tonneaux, equally split between new and one-year-old wood, for around 18 months, depending on the vintage. The average production ranges from 6,000 to 12,000 bottles.

Capezzana opts to bottle Trefiano only in the best years, which means, since its introduction in 1979, they’ve bottled it 28 times – roughly once every three years on average.

At the tasting

One of the best lessons learnt from a vertical tasting is to see when the wines enter their window of drinkability, which, of course, is personal and different for everybody. For me, the 2008 Trefiano was drinking beautifully. For many of the others at the tasting it was the 2012 – it’s personal preference.

In 2019, Beatrice told me that Trefiano was her brother Vittorio’s idea. He had died tragically a year earlier at only 66. To honour him, ‘Vittorio Contini Bonacossi’ appears on the label above ‘Trefiano’. His daughter, Serena told me: ‘The soul of my father is in this wine.’

A taste of Trefiano:

Wines are listed oldest to youngest

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When the producer pulled out of his pocket a wrought iron key to an ancient door, it was easy to imagine that we would soon be transported to an old cellar, but I never would have imagined walking into a Roman cave. This is Campania, filled with hidden gems, stratified with tradition, and teeming with profound viticulture.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 30 wines from Campania to try in 2023

I was visiting La Sibilla, a winery named after the homonymous oracle who was believed to reside just a few miles away. Sibilla was Zeus’s lover; human but immortal, left only with her voice. The estate lies in the Procida promontory where the Campi Flegrei appellation shines for its personality due to old, ungrafted vines on volcanic soils facing the sea. Even the faint Falanghina (to call a spade a spade, in comparison with Fiano and Greco), emerges here with quality thanks to tart citrus fruit, vibrancy and chalky minerality.

White or red?

Campania is in a constant state of limbo between calling itself a white wine region or a red one. If we look at the numbers for hectares planted, it is apparent that white grapes represent 46% of the production while red grapes comprise 54%. These numbers were released during a ‘special edition’ tenth-anniversary event, held in Pozzuoli, close to Naples, in autumn 2022.

The location and the numbers give way to another hidden aspect: the region is studded with indigenous white grapes: obviously Fiano and Greco, but also Falanghina, Biancolella, Ripoli, Fenile, Ginestra and so on.

The coast shines for its bone-dry whites full of spicy minerality. Their appeal is fed by idyllic pairings with pizza, pasta and the Mediterranean diet of the region, but also by the seasonal tourism from charming islands such as Capri, Ischia and Procida plus the Sorrentina and Amalfitana coastal zones. Just thinking about these picturesque places is enough to make your mouth water!

Technically speaking, the old vines and the influence of sea breezes contribute to keeping yields moderate, giving the wines greater concentration and length. This is one of the best indicators for Campania, where tradition tends to allow the vines to produce higher yields.

Coastal Campania

If Campania is tiny, representing just 2-4% of total Italian production (source: Agea-Sian), the appellations along the coast don’t even account for 30% of the whole region – the Salerno province including the Amalfi Coast, Naples with Procida, and partially the Caserta province represent around 26% of Campania’s production. However, in terms of quality, this coastal area helps to raise the bar for Campania’s wine reputation.

That said, those who have the patience for ageing can enjoy Aglianico on a par with the deepest and most ageworthy red wines of Italy. Taurasi, for example, commands attention from wine lovers due to its structure – although the trend for less extracted, crunchy and more vinous examples of both Aglianico and Piedirosso is not slowing down. Keep an eye out for great recent vintages such as 2017, but also 2019 or 2015.

30 wines from Campania to try in 2023

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Away from the dazzling Amalfi coast, the archaeological hotspots of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Paestum, and the bright lights of Naples, visitors can find a quieter Campania.

Truffles, chestnut and olive trees and, of course, vines grow in a spectacular landscape of hills and mountains which contrasts with the coastal plain.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 top Campania white wines worth seeking out

The most important among an assortment of largely indigenous white grape varieties are undeniably Fiano and Greco. Found in wines throughout the region, as well as beyond Campania’s borders, these reach their apogee in the DOCGs of Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo, widely considered to be two of Italy’s finest white wine denominations.

Established as DOCs in 1978 and 1970 respectively, they were both recognised as DOCGs in 2003.

Located in Irpinia in the province of Avellino, about an hour’s drive northeast from Naples, the vineyards of predominantly clayey-calcareous soils with volcanic, sand and mineral deposits range in altitude from 250m to about 650m, while the surrounding mountains reach to 1,577m. This gives the grapes grown here an advantage in the form of large diurnal temperature variations (up to 20°C cooler at night in some locations), allowing for full ripening but preserving aromatics and acidity, aided by cool winds blowing in from the Tyrrhenian sea which also reduce disease pressure in the vineyards.

Complementary styles

Fiano di Avellino

Fiano di Avellino is the more accessible of the two wines; its elegant floral, mineral character is filled out with apple, pear and hazelnuts and vibrant acidity.

Drink as a vino da meditazione or pair with food: it’s remarkably versatile, but goes especially well with local specialities such as black truffle (Tartufo Nero di Bagnoli Irpino) shaved over egg pasta, or the world-famous pizza Napoletana topped with local San Marzano tomatoes and DOP Mozzarella di Bufala Campana.

Greco di Tufo

Greco di Tufo can be described as a ‘white wine with a red soul’, such is its weighty, sapid and often viscous character accompanied by rich and exotic scents. Its acidity is markedly higher than even Fiano di Avellino, and its phenolic structure is typically complemented by skin contact and lees ageing during production.

So while it’s possible to enjoy Greco di Tufo in its youth, it’s often wiser to wait at least a couple of years for it to gain some weight and balance. Alternatively, well-matched cuisine can tame young Greco di Tufo: try it with spaghetti al baccalà, a local tomato-based pasta dish with capers and salt cod, or with seared tongue of beef with fennel.

Annual production from Greco di Tufo’s eight permitted villages (636ha) was 3.56m bottles in 2020, while Fiano di Avellino’s 26 permitted villages (419ha) produced 2.06m bottles (source: Consorzio Tutela dei Vini d’Irpinia). Commonly matured on the lees in stainless steel tanks before additional time in bottle, a small proportion are matured in oak barrels and even amphorae.

Riserva

Both DOCGs have a Riserva category and these are well worth seeking out in many cases, as they tend to be made from a winery’s top plots with additional ageing (minimum of 12 months). Greco’s high acidity also makes it ideal for sparkling wine production, and the Greco di Tufo DOCG allows for spumante and spumante Riserva metodo classico variants.

See notes and scores for 20 top Campania white wines

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Best Campania wines: 30 to try

Mastroberardino producer profile: a taste of elegance

Premium white blends of Friuli and Alto Adige

The Campania region, encompassing the Amalfi Coast, the Bay of Naples and the volcano of Mount Vesuvius, has an extraordinary history of winemaking. Ancient Greek settlers bought vines to Italy when they began populating the south of the country in the 8th century BC. The Romans later embraced this vinous culture, and it was Falernian – from Campania’s modern-day Falerno del Massico DOC – that was their most prized wine.

Today, Campania is a hotbed of indigenous varieties under various DOC guises, but the region’s three DOCGs are all clustered together in inland Irpinia, close to the Apennine Mountains.

The Taurasi DOCG produces some excellent reds made from Aglianico, while the Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino DOCGs just west and southwest of Taurasi respectively produce some of Italy’s standout white wines.

Irpinia

Irpinia sits on a plateau rising up to 700 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Apennine Mountains, providing a drastically contrasting climate to the warmer coastal zones of Campania. Temperature differences between day and night are wide, ensuring a long, even ripening and the retention of acids in the grapes.

Spring frosts are a constant threat, and autumn rain can disrupt harvest, which is typically not undertaken until October or November.

The soils are a mix of limestone, clay and volcanic, and some areas also have large deposits of sulphur.

Taurasi

The Taurasi DOCG covers 450ha under vine. Established as a DOC in 1970 and promoted to DOCG in 1993, the area varies in height from 300 to 650 metres above sea level.

The wines produced here must be at least 85% Aglianico, with up to 15% other local red varieties. They must be aged for a minimum of 36 months (48 months for Riservas), of which 12 months (18 months for Riservas) must be spent in barrel.

Taurasi wines are traditionally renowned for their longevity, although many producers produce earlier-drinking wines by utlilising pumping-over and racking to minimise the naturally reductive nature of the variety.

Greco di Tufo

Around 640ha are under vine in the Greco di Tufo DOCG. As the name suggests, the wine made here is the Greco variety grown on tufo (volcanic soil). It was designated a DOC in 1970 and promoted to DOCG in 2003.

Greco thrives in this elevated DOCG ranging from 300 to 600m above seal level, far away from the humidity of the coast where its tight clusters of grapes are prone to rot and downy mildew – although the presence of the Sabato River which divides the Greco di Tufo area means there is still some risk to grapes grown here.

As well as the still white wines it is famous for (min. 85% Greco & up to 15% Coda di Volpe), the DOCG also produces traditional-method sparkling wine with the same varietal requirements and aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees.

Fiano di Avellino

The Fiano di Avellino DOCG has 411ha under vine. A DOC since 1978, it was promoted to DOCG in 2003. The area ranges in height from 400 to 700m above sea level.

Its wines must be a minimum of 85% Fiano, with the remainder made up of Coda di Volpe, Greco or Trebbiano.

Campania DOCGs – Wines to try:

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Decanter travel guide: Coastal Campania

I first visited southern Italy 30 years ago, on a road trip with Italian wine expert and author Nicolas Belfrage MW, Simon Loftus (former chairman of merchant Adnams) and Andrew Caslin (then of merchant Lay & Wheeler).

Motoring through Campania, Basilicata and Puglia, we paused at designated wineries, and when we reached Reggio in Calabria to board the ferry to Sicily we were told to tip the windscreen washer if we wanted to preserve ours intact.

Arriving in a small village on Sicily’s east coast, two young men in sharp suits, bristling with mobile phones, entered the restaurant as it emptied at dusk. They were followed by a dozen Armani-clad men and women, the white-haired elder commanding attention at the head of the table.

When we later asked our guide who they were, he replied quietly: ‘All I can tell you is that they’re in the life-insurance business.’

For scenes such as these, the local food, the beauty of the landscapes and the wonder of cities such as Lecce, the trip was memorable. For the wines, less so.

As Belfrage wrote in his 1985 book, Life Beyond Lambrusco, ‘There is a great profusion of different vine varieties throughout the Mezzogiorno, and therefore a great profusion of different wines, many of which are of little or no commercial interest.’

Later I was to visit Sardinia, experiencing the fresh fish market in Cagliari and the extraordinary Ardia – the far more hazardous, rural version of Siena’s Palio horse race. The local Vernaccia kept you refreshed but that was about it.

How times have changed since those early days of wine and Puglian rosés.

Quality, consultants and native grapes

As production of southern Italian plonk dropped dramatically in the 1980s and early 1990s, producers had no alternative if they were to survive but to start focusing on quality.

From those oceans of rotgut rosso, oases such as Mastroberardino, Librandi, Feudi di San Gregorio, Regaleali, Donnafugata and Planeta sprung up.

Producers stopped ripping up their vineyard heritage of native grape varieties as it dawned on them that certain varieties (albeit not all) were capable of producing quality wine if they were reinterpreted.

How? By planting in the right location, restricting yields, picking at the right time, better handling in the cellar and taking on consultants.

On that latter score, Giacomo Tachis and Franco Bernabei in Sardinia, Riccardo Cottarella in Campania and Salvo Foti, Alberto Antonini and Carlo Ferrini in Sicily have all contributed to the south’s quality drive.

From big, ripe and tannic iterations, reds made from Nero d’Avola in Sicily, Primitivo and Negroamaro in Puglia and Cannonau and Carignano in Sardinia are being given a modern, brighter makeover. Aglianico above all is changing out of sight in Campania and on volcanic Monte Vulture in Basilicata.

The red grape that Sicily hangs its world-class hat on is Nerello Mascalese, pioneered by Benanti and Girolamo Russo at Etna in Sicily and latterly the likes of Alberto Graci, Marc de Grazia’s Terre Nere, Frank Cornelissen, Silvia Maestrelli, Andrea Franchetti, Pietradolce and Carlo Ferrini – not forgetting Simply Red singer-songwriter Mick Hucknall.

Today’s demand for fresher white wines is also bringing out the best in Sicily’s Grillo, Inzolia and Catarratto, Campania’s Greco, Fiano and Falanghina, while Verdeca in Puglia, Vermentino and Vernaccia di Oristano in Sardinia are taking on a new lease of life.

As the benefits of the Mediterranean diet have been brought home to us, washing it down with its vinous counterpart has never been more enjoyable.

A taste of the south: Anthony Rose’s top picks

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Did the Aussies get it wrong? Perhaps Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay aren’t the right grapes for Down Under. Surely this is an irreverent, preposterous suggestion. These grapes have enjoyed raging success.

Scroll down for Morris’ best Australian wines made with Italian grapes

Yet it is impossible to ignore the increasing number of labels touting grapes such as Montepulciano, Arneis or Sagrantino. While they aren’t threatening the hegemony of French varieties, Italian grapes are unequivocally on the rise in Australia.

Rather than approaching this new frontier with an overly confident swagger, producers are adopting Italy’s native grapes with guileless enchantment. Acclaimed Riesling producer Stephanie Toole at Mount Horrocks in South Australia’s Clare Valley went to the dark side after tasting Nero d’Avola in a wine bar in Rome. ‘I’d never tried it, nor even heard of it before,’ she admits. She is now crafting one of Australia’s finest examples.

Beyond the grape varieties themselves, the style of wine they produce has appealed to winemakers’ sensibilities. ‘I want savoury, medium-bodied, textural wines that have some tannin and grip,’ says Sam Scott. His La Prova label drinks like a love letter to Italy.Stephen Pannell, who makes wine in the maritime region of McLaren Vale in South Australia, sees them as a better fit with the local lifestyle and food. ‘I’m aware of living next to the ocean, yet we are renowned for making big red wines. Those two things don’t sit well with each other,’ he argues. Indeed, the region’s delicate King George whiting and Kangaroo Island squid beg for restrained, refreshing whites. Enter Fiano and Vermentino.

Geographic spread

Soul-searching in Australia is not new, and the rise of Italian grape varieties has been simmering for the last 40 years. Boasting the country’s first commercial plantings of Italian varieties, the Montrose winery in Mudgee, New South Wales, released a Sangiovese in the late 1970s, though it was discontinued after a few vintages. The mantle was then taken up by Coriole’s Mark Lloyd, who established a vineyard in McLaren Vale in 1985.

‘My inspiration for planting Sangiovese was questioning why we didn’t have anything from Italy, and why there weren’t more characters or differences,’ Lloyd explains.

Australia has been strongly dominated by just a handful of French varieties for some time. ‘It’s like vinous racism,’ declares Pannell.

The stampede for Italian grape varieties is particularly palpable in McLaren Vale. Gill Gordon-Smith, who makes tiny quantities under her Fall From Grace label, asserts: ‘They have given the region a point of difference from Shiraz, especially for small producers.’

The landscape here even bears some resemblance to Italy. The hills conjure up Tuscany while, looking out to the ocean, it evokes Sardinia or Sicily. After World War II, numerous southern Italians migrated to McLaren Vale. Many worked as market gardeners and established vineyards. Though Italian varieties weren’t readily available at the time, now growers like the Maglieri family at Serafino, the Grilli family of Primo Estate and the Zerella family are proudly embracing the grapes of their homeland.

Well adapted

Beyond the Vale, Italian grape varieties have taken hold throughout South Australia. From Langhorne Creek to Adelaide Hills, through Barossa and Riverland and all the way to Clare Valley, plantings of Aglianico, Barbera, Lagrein, Mammolo and Zibibbo are popping up. ‘They grow brilliantly and are made for our Mediterranean climate,’ says Scott.

A key selling point is the ability these grapes have to retain acidity even at full flavour ripeness. Adjusting wine for acidity is common in Australia and usually necessary for balance. However, for her Clare Valley Nero d’Avola, Toole doesn’t need to do any manipulation. ‘The acid is just perfect,’ she states. At the nearby Koerner winery, brothers Damon and Jonathan Koerner work with varieties such as Sangiovese and Vermentino for this very reason. ‘We choose grapes we think are suited to this area and climate,’ says Damon. ‘Chardonnay isn’t, and personally I don’t think Shiraz is either because here in Clare you have to add so much acid.’

Italian grapes in Australia

Top five white grapes (by estimated tonnes harvested, 2018)

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (aka Moscato Bianco) 22,322t

Prosecco (officially known as Glera in Italy) 7,082t

Moscato Giallo 2,785t Fiano 2,075t

Vermentino 1,959t

Others Arneis, Bianco d’Alessano, Biancone, Falanghina, Friulano, Garganega, Grechetto, Greco, Grillo, Inzolia (officially Ansonica), Malvasia Istriana, Pecorino, Ribolla Gialla, Trebbiano group, Verdicchio, Verduzzo, Zibibbo

Top five red Italian grapes (by estimated tonnes harvested, 2018)

Sangiovese 3,996t

Lambrusco family 1,884t

Dolcetto 973t

Nero d’Avola 898t

Montepulciano 760t

Others Aglianico, Aleatico, Barbera, Brachetto, Colorino, Lagrein, Mammolo, Marzemino, Nebbiolo, Negroamaro, Piedirosso, Sagrantino, Schioppettino, Teroldego, Uva di Troia

Heat and drought tolerance are an equal draw, especially as climate change has exacerbated weather extremes. In the particularly dry, hot conditions of 2018, ‘the French grape varieties struggled, but not the Italians – they just soldiered through it’, says Scott. Since the late 1990s, the Australian Wine Research Institute has been educating the industry about climate change and the solution of alternative Mediterranean grapes. Brad Hickey and Nicole Thorpe of Brash Higgins took heed after a trio of hot vintages from 2007 to 2009. ‘We were the first in McLaren Vale to plant Nero d’Avola and removed a block of Shiraz,’ recalls Hickey. While this was considered foolhardy from a commercial standpoint, Hickey estimates that there are now 30 people growing it.

Healthy concern

Unshackled by the kind of appellation regulations in place in Europe, winemakers have greater freedom to play with these grapes. Nevertheless, Australia has its own constraints. Strict regulations on plant material entering the country mean producers can’t simply arrive home with Nebbiolo cuttings from their favourite Barolo cru and stick them in the ground. Incoming vines are quarantined, cultivated, then tested for virus. If, and only if, a plant is clean is it released. The vine then needs to be propagated. It is a lengthy process. Toole put herself on the waiting list for Nero d’Avola in 2003 and wasn’t able to produce a wine until 2012.

Vine nurseries are therefore fundamental in the growth of alternative varieties in Australia. Yalumba’s Barossa nursery is a notable source, while Chalmers’ Victoriabased operation specialises exclusively in Italian cultivars. It has partnered with the Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo of Fruili, which is the world’s largest vine nursery. To date, Chalmers has made almost 40 native Italian grape varieties available to Aussie growers. ‘We’ve sold over two million vines of these varieties to between 300 and 400 different producers,’ estimates owner Kim Chalmers.

As impressive as this is, not every desired grape has made it through. ‘I would like to have planted Nerello Mascalese five years ago but it’s still not available,’ says Chester Osborn of d’Arenberg, who is already working with Sagrantino and Aglianico.

On the flip-side, Chalmers’ latest imports include popular grapes such as Falanghina, Pecorino and Ribolla Gialla. However, Chalmers insists that, rather than fashion, her first consideration is viticulture. She focuses on grapes that are suited to warm climates and resilient to the effects of climate change.

‘Our hit list of attributes are thick skins, loose bunches, very early or very late ripening (so that we are picking before the majority of heat or well after), heat and drought tolerance, and high natural acidity,’ she explains. She then looks at what tastes good.

Front runners

Italian grape varieties span Australia from as far west as Margaret River all the way east to New South Wales. Though still far from mainstream, they are no longer outliers as they were when Mark Lloyd and his cohorts Garry Crittenden and Mark Walpole in Victoria started championing them. The tipping point will be when big companies such as Casella or Treasury Wine Estates get behind them.

For the time being, producers are still trying to determine which grapes do best where. Jeffrey Grosset struggled with Aglianico in the Clare Valley for seven years and it didn’t ripen. ‘It was too lean. Most of it went down the drain,’ he confesses. With time, patterns might emerge, such as Nero d’Avola and Fiano in McLaren Vale.

It is also too soon to talk about a definitive Australian style, though current releases are impressive. What is most stunning is the brilliant, mouthwatering natural acidity and reasonable alcohol levels.

Whites are being made without oak or with neutral oak and everyone is talking texture. Fiano is truly a standout, with a range of expressions. Some are made exclusively in stainless steel, others go through partial barrel fermentation, and lees contact varies. La Prova, Grosset and Bondar are just a few to look out for.

As for Vermentino, a number of producers are trying too hard to mimic Sauvignon Blanc, but Oliver’s Taranga makes a lovely version comparable in quality to the winery’s excellent Fiano. Meanwhile, for something completely different, Koerner offers two very distinct Clare Valley Vermentinos.

Aiming high

For the reds, there are scores of mid-weight examples loaded with intriguing flavours. Oak, gloriously, is rarely overdone. The fruit tends to have a glossier sheen and tannins are typically less assertive than in the Italian counterparts. Sagrantino may be the exception to this, though it generally has plush fruit to support. Aphelion in McLaren Vale is aiming for refinement and the embryonic 2018 shows promise. Montepulciano (or Monte as the Aussies affectionately call it) is fruity yet polite, and lacking its rustic edge. Fall From Grace has just released a dry, dark rosato version along the lines of a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Above all, Nero d’Avola is a winner.

Considered Italy’s most noble varieties, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo will likely come under the most scrutiny. For Sangiovese, Coriole is still a reference. Zerella is going for a long-aged, Brunello-esque version whereas Koerner and McLaren Vale’s Juxtaposed are making a juicy-fruit style.

In terms of Nebbiolo, it takes a certain fanatic to tangle with this finicky grape. Stephen Pannell, as well as Luke Lambert in Yarra Valley and Pizzini in King Valley, are among the most gorgeous successes.

As difficult as it is not to make comparisons with Italy, Australia’s producers are adamant that they are not trying to make wines that look like something else. ‘We need to create our own industry, not copy,’ says Pannell. ‘That requires creativity, ingenuity and bravery.’

Australia has a solid track record of this. Surely it won’t be long before wines made from Italian grapes are sitting next to Australian benchmarks of French varieties.

Morris’ top Australian wines made with Italian grapes

The first 15 wines were included in the original feature in the June 2019 issue of Decanter magazine. The following wines are an additional selection exclusively for Decanter Premium members. 

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From new-wave Aglianico to pale rosé and the re-emergence of indigenous grape varieties, there's a lot happening in Campania, says Aldo Fiordelli. Read his report below, including wines to look for...

Campania wines have a charm that belies the relatively small size of this southern Italian vineyard region.

According to Italy’s national statistics agency, Istat, Campania makes up just 3.3% of Italy’s vineyards, with roughly 29,000ha planted.

Scroll down to see Aldo’s top wines from Campania

Aglianico is the most widely planted grape variety here, known for producing powerful yet charismatic red wines. It is followed by Falanghina, a grape known for yielding delicious and refreshing white wines, as well as the better known Greco and Fiano varieties, whose wines are able to age.

However, the true wonders of Campania are found in a crowd of indigenous grapes from Roman times:

• Pallagrello from Volturno
• Piedirosso and Caprettone around Vesuvio
• Biancolella on the island of Ischia
• Ripoli, Fenile and Ginestra along the Amalfi Coast

Regional variation: From mountains to coast

Campania may lie at the heart of the Mediterranean, but there are few places with as much variety in terms of landscape and climate.

Irpinia

The most misleading region is arguably Irpinia. One expecting the classic components of Mediterranean terroir will instead find a plateau sitting at, on average, 600 metres above sea level, with mountains soaring up to 1,800 metres.

A mix of limestone, clay and volcanic soils expand over two valleys:

• Calore, which is more suitable for red wines
• Sabato, which is better known for white wines

The average temperature in August, the warmest month of the year, is around 22°C. As this figure would suggest for somewhere so far south in Europe, there is tremendous variation in night and day temperatures. This extends the growing season and is essential for taming the austere, phenolic nature of Aglianico, which in good years is harvested at the beginning of November.

Coastal

Towards the coastline, Campanian vineyards also benefit from the cooling influence of the sea, a favourable factor when compared to other regions of the same latitude.

Naples sits at close to 41 degrees north, and this area’s reputation has been rising – as recently proven by the Gambero Rosso publication presenting a Tre Bicchieri [‘three glasses’] award to a wine from Ischia Island in the Gulf of Naples.

Improved winemaking skills

A profound increase in winemaking skill has been one of the most vital changes in Campania over the last decade.

Pioneers include Luigi Moio, professor of oenology at Federico II University of Naples, who works as a consultant for several wineries, teaching and preaching the necessity for clean and precise wines. He is also the producer of an outstanding Taurasi.

Larger-scale winery, Feudi San Gregorio, has made its viticulture more efficient, largely thanks to Pierpaolo Sirch, the well-known pruning consultant turned technical director of the winery.

Trends: from ‘garagiste’ Aglianico to pale rosé

Meanwhile, Marco Tinessa, the ‘garagiste’ of Aglianico and a talented wine producer with a degree from the Bocconi University in Milan, is competing with Giovanni Ascione, of the small Nanni Copè estate, to become the leader of post-modern winemaking in Campania.

Then there are the famed ‘bianchisti’, the white wine producers like Marisa Cuomo with her beloved Amalfi Coast ‘Furore’, and Sabino Loffredo of Pietracupa.

Last but not least we must not forget the emerging rosé trend among Lacryma Christi producers near to Vesuvio. These vibrant, pale pink wines of extraordinary saltiness and minerality have low alcohol and are becoming must-have wines on Amalfi Coast holidays.

Exciting Campania wines to try:

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Off the beaten track: Hidden gems of southern Italy

From Riverland Fiano to McLaren Vale Aglianico, growing numbers of Australian winemakers are experimenting with Italian grape varieties and our expert team has picked out 15 favourites - mostly from the recent Australia Day tastings in London.

Those in-the-know will be aware of Australian winemakers’ experiments with Italian grape varieties over the last several years.

More recently, growing numbers of wines are becoming available – some only at the ‘cellar door’, but others are finding their way overseas – as shown by the tasting lists at the Australia Day tasting organised by Wine Australia in London in January.

Some of the trials started with climate change in mind, but several winemakers have also long held the view that certain Australian climates – Riverland, for example – were already a good natural fit for the sun-loving varieties of southern Italy, in particular.

Some winemakers also have ancestral links to Italian regions.

Below, you’ll see examples of how McLaren Vale and Riverland have been explored as a base for varieties from the south of Italy’s ‘boot’, such as Fiano, Aglianico and Nero d’Avola.

Adelaide Hills and Clare and King valleys have emerged as front-runners for varieties found in central and northern Italy, such as Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Nebbiolo, although it is still early days and so difficult to generalise.

Below, Decanter’s tasting team pick out 15 Italian-inspired highlights that are worth tracking down in 2018. Due to the small quantities, availability may be patchy, so if you come across any of these, snap them up.

Copy and editing by Chris Mercer and Jim Button. Tasting notes below by Tina Gellie, Amy Wislocki and Jim Button. 

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In the world of wine, smaller is often regarded as better, with boutique estates and cult micro-cuvées taking the top spots. But, as Ian D'Agata discovers, large companies with their diverse portfolios and huge volumes of wine, can offer big surprises...

Land of Torre Rosazza, owned by Le Tenute di Genagricola

Wine speak has always been littered with catchphrases: terroir, native, local, biodynamic, artisanal, organic, family estate, old vines and so forth. So it’s not surprising many wine lovers assume that only small, family-run estates, or those working organically or solely using native grapes, can produce great wines. That’s just not so, and nowhere is this more apparent than in Italy.

A number of the country’s largest wine estates produce some of the country’s finest wines: witness Frescobaldi’s amazing Ornellaia and Masseto, or Antinori’s Tignanello and Solaia. But Antinori and Frescobaldi are admired by wine lovers around the world because they also deliver excellent wines in large volumes at low prices. Other large estates in Italy are similarly successful, though their top wines may not have reached comparable levels of fame.

Unfortunately, many wine lovers get to know Italy’s large estates by tasting inexpensive, entry-level wines: competently made but insipid Pinot Grigios or Proseccos. The key with Italy’s biggest estates is to pick those wines that aren’t the absolute cheapest in their range. Nevertheless, Italy’s larger wine estates have merits that go far beyond making great or dependable wines.

‘Chianti Classico produces 35 million bottles a year, so every producer, big or small, counts,’ says Sergio Zingarelli, owner of large Tuscan estate Rocca delle Macie, and also the new president of the Chianti Classico consorzio. ‘Bigger estates penetrate international markets better, pricing wines well thanks to economies of scale, which helps increase interest in us and our wine tourism. Smaller estates produce wines better suited to other market niches and tastes.’

‘Buying a well-made, fairly priced Pinot Grigio or Frascati is important to many,’ points out Davide Mascalzoni, general director of Gruppo Italiano Vini (GIV), owner of Italy’s largest collection of wine estates. ‘People know they can count on us to deliver consistent, dependable quality. Smaller producers often have only a limited supply of grapes to choose from, and this limits their winemaking options.’ At Cantina La-Vis and Valle di Cembra, 1.5 million bottles a year of wine are produced but this large co-operative has also launched a limited number of single-vineyard bottlings of Müller- Thurgau (Vigna delle Forche) and Pinot Nero (Vigna di Saosent) that are regularly among Italy’s best wines. The Cantina Viticoltori del Trentino (Cavit) unites 11 Trentino co-ops and has more than 4,500 members. A mind-numbing 65 million bottles a year are made, but its top sparkling wine, the Altemasi Graal Riserva Metodo Classico Trento Brut is made in small quantities and is often ranked among Italy’s best.

So bigger doesn’t necessarily mean standardised or dull. In fact, maintaining the independence and identity of each estate these large groups own is key. For example, GIV’s headquarters are in Veneto, but the group owns 14 cellars and 18 brands across Italy, totalling about 1,340ha under vine.

Thinking individually

Though all the estates are under one umbrella, each has its own viticultural expert, winemaker and cellar master. Mascalzoni adds: ‘Technical and winemaking aspects are kept separate, but estates benefit by having a common sales organisation, overseeing both common and specific marketing strategies, and integrated logistics services. As GIV owns estates from Lombardy to Sicily, our clients have an easier time stocking up on diverse wines from different Italian regions.’

Veneto-based Zonin has a similar set-up across its nine estates. It produces 40 million bottles a year and exports to more than 100 countries. Zonin has enlisted Denis Dubourdieu, a winemaker and professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux, as its wine consultant-at-large, and follows environmentally friendly, sustainable agricultural methods. It’s family owned, with father Gianni Zonin and sons Domenico, Francesco and Michele running a remarkably successful enterprise, with a consolidated turnover in 2012 of Euro140 million – up 13% on the previous year.

‘Our wine estates are run separately, by mainly locals who live and work there,’ says Domenico. ‘We lived there too: as children, we’d alternate family vacations at the various estates, giving us a great bond to the different properties, terroirs and wines.’ Zonin’s aim is to help wine regions grow. ‘Once, hardly anybody spoke about Lombardy’s Bonarda, but we always believed in its potential. Now, not only is ours extremely successful, but other producers’ Bonardas have become popular too.’

Greater resources

He adds: ‘Oltrepò Pavese has great potential as a sparkling wine region, but what used to be made there wasn’t up to scratch. So we began organising conferences and wine tastings, then co-created the Pinot Club with about seven other local producers. The club’s goal is to produce better, more interesting wines by sharing information and working together. We even have two expert sparkling winemakers from Burgundy and Champagne to help everyone in the group get the best we can from our grapes.’

Study and research are also a big part of what large estates do. Le Tenute di Genagricola is the agricultural branch of Assicurazioni Generali, a huge Italian insurance group that, much like France’s AXA Millésimes, has invested heavily in wine estates. Alfredo Barbieri, Genagricola’s general director of sales in Italy, says he has terroir and tradition, not just sales, at heart: ‘Bigger companies have the financial means to study and experiment with little-known local varieties. We’ll bottle varietal wines like Albarossa, Picolit and Pignolo even though such small productions aren’t very remunerative. But that’s okay, as we stay actively involved in preserving traditions and native wines.’

Similarly, Zonin wants to promote the wines of Gambellara, an area near Soave and another bastion of the Garganega grape. In Gambellara both dry and sweet wines have been made for centuries, but few wine lovers are familiar with them. ‘Our basalt-rich soils allow production of totally different Garganega-based wines than Soave’s,’ says Domenico. ‘We hope to work with many large and small producers in the area as a cohesive association to help improve and market the area’s wines.’

Recently, Genagricola became the first company to use Schioppettino for traditional method sparkling wine production. The resulting wine, Blanc di Neri, has been a resounding success. ‘Our neighbours thought we were crazy turning Schioppettino into something it wasn’t meant to be, but some are now asking for advice on how to make their own version,’ says Barbieri.

Mascalzoni of GIV points out that the big guys learn from the little guys too. ‘At Castello Monaci in Puglia, we made classic Primitivo or Negroamaro wines, but were aware how successful local smaller producers were with Fiano and Verdeca. We now also make these varietal wines.’ In fact, Castello Monaci’s Acante Fiano and Pietraluce Verdeca are among the most interesting and fairly priced wines coming out of Italy’s deep south in some time.

Speculate to innovate

Sometimes, it’s simpler than all that. There probably wouldn’t exist a worldwide craze for Pinot Grigio without Santa Margherita, one of Italy’s largest wine producers. In the 1960s, 100% Pinot Grigio wines were rare in Italy, but the Marzotto family liked what they tasted and believed in the grape. The rest is history.

In Abruzzo, Tollo is a cooperative that has created countless jobs and preserved the livelihoods of entire generations of families in the Chieti area. It is likely that without Tollo, many of the vineyards would have been abandoned in the wake of the agricultural exodus during the 1960s and 1970s. Wine lovers have come to know Montepulciano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo thanks to their efforts, but the preservation of old vines also means that previously unidentified or forgotten varieties have survived, which may culminate in new wines one day.

Innovation doesn’t stop at Italy’s doors either. Genagricola has invested in Romania and will bottle its first vintage of Romanian wines this year. And with the creation of Barboursville Vineyards, Zonin helped revive viticulture and winemaking in the American state of Virginia. Winemaker Luca Paschina was even named the Virginia Wine Industry Person of the Year in 2002.

We are regularly told that good things come in small packages when it comes to the size of wine estates. And while that is often true, it’s also clear that, through their fine wines and attention to tradition and innovation, Italy’s largest estates help celebrate the diversity of Italian wine the world over.

Facts & figures

• Italy is the home of the small landowner. The average vineyard area owned by each wine estate, 1.6 hectares, is increasing but remains below the European average of 7.9ha (2010 data)
• The largest vineyard holdings per person are in Friuli-Venezia Giulia (3ha), Sicily (2.7ha), Lombardy (2.5ha), and Tuscany (2.3ha)
• Italy’s 11 biggest wine companies, on the basis of operating profit margin, are (in descending order): Antinori, Santa Margherita, Frescobaldi, Gruppo Italiano Vini, Caviro, Giordano, Botter, Martini, Mezzacorona, Ruffino and Zonin (2011 data). They are much larger land owners than the national average: for example, Zonin owns 2,000ha under vine.

Who owns what in Italy?

Antinori

Fattoria Aldobrandesca, La Braccesca, Le Mortelle, Badia a Passignano, Guado al Tasso, Pèppoli, Pian delle Vigne, Tenuta Monteloro, Santa Cristina, Tenuta Tignanello, (Tuscany); Prunotto (Piedmont); Montenisa (Lombardy); Castello della Sala (Umbria); Tormaresca (Puglia)

Frescobaldi

Castello di Nipozzano, Castello di Pomino, Tenuta di Castelgiocondo, Ornellaia, Tenuta di Castiglioni, Tenuta dell’Ammiraglia (Tuscany); Attems (Friuli Venezia Giulia)

GIV

Ca’ Bianca (Piedmont); Nino Negri (Lombardy); Bolla, Conti d’Arco, Lamberti, Santi, Turá (Veneto); Conti Formentini (FVG); Cavicchioli (Emilia Romagna); Conti Serristori, Folonari, Machiavelli, Melini (Tuscany); Bigi (Umbria); Fontana Candida (Lazio); Castello Monaci (Puglia), Re Manfredi (Basilicata); Tenuta Rapitalà (Sicily)

La-Vis/Cembra

Lavis, Casa Girelli, Cembra, Cesarini Sforza (Trentino), Dürer-Weg (Alto Adige); Poggio Morino, Villa Cafaggio (Tuscany)

Le Tenute di Genagricola

Tenuta S.Anna (Veneto); Torre Rosazza, Borgo Magredo, Poggiobello, V8+ (FVG); Bricco dei Guazzi (Piedmont); Gregorina (Emilia Romagna); Solonio (Lazio)

Zonin

Zonin (Veneto); Castello Del Poggio (Piedmont); Tenuta Il Bosco (Lombardy); Tenuta Ca’ Bolani (FVG); Castello D’Albola, Rocca Di Montemassi, Abbazia Monte Oliveto (Tuscany); Masseria Altemura (Puglia); Feudo Principi Di Butera (Sicily)

Written by Ian D’Agata

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In the world of wine, smaller is often regarded as better, with boutique estates and cult micro-cuvées taking the top spots. But, as Ian D'Agata discovers, large companies with their diverse portfolios and huge volumes of wine, can offer big surprises...

Best buys from Italy’s winemaking giants

Cavit, Altemasi Graal Riserva Metodo Classico Brut, Trentino 2004

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

By far the best wine made by Cavit, this is a worldclass bubbly. Complex thanks to age, this boasts breadcrumbs, butter and apricots.

Price £33–£37 All About Wine, Hangingditch

Drink 2014

Alc 13.5%

Valdo, Prosecco Extra Dry, Veneto NV

16/20pts (86/100pts)

Apricot, green apple and buttercups. Fresh, uncomplicated but well made and satisfying.

Price NA/UK valdo.com

Drink 2014

Alc 12.5%

Torre Rosazza, Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli 2008

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

One of Friuli’s best estates. Great Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla and Friulano. This latter wine ages well, with marzipan, pear, herbs and peach.

Price £20 Premier Wines

Drink 2014

Alc 13%

La-Vis, Vigneti di Montagna Pinot Grigio, Trentino 2011

16.5/20pts (88/100pts)

Green apple, pear and white flowers, with sneaky concentration. Much better than other Pinot Grigios at this price point.

Price £10 Waitrose

Drink 2014

Alc 12.5%

Cantina Tollo, Madregale Bianco, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo 2012

15.5/20pts (85/100pts)

Easygoing wine made from Chardonnay in stainless steel. Bright and crisp, an uncomplicated glass.

Price £6.99–£10 Exel Wines, Les Caves de Pyrène, Roberson Wine

Drink 2014

Alc 12%

Nino Negri, 5 Stelle Sfursat, Valtellina, Lombardy 2009

17.5/20pts (91/100pts)

Amarone-like, but more refined, thanks to the Nebbiolo grape. Macerated red cherries, cocoa and sweet spices: a memorable experience.

Price £41–£47 AG Wines, Exel Wines, Winedirect

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 15.5%

Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany 2010

16.75/20pts (89/100pts)

Wines improving by leaps and bounds; the Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli is another winner. Savoury and fresh, with ageing potential, from a fantastic Tuscan vintage.

Price £16 James Nicholson

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 13.5%

Rocca di Montemassi, Le Focaie Sangiovese, Maremma, Tuscany 2010

16.75/20pts (89/100pts)

Fresh and easygoing, juicy yet savoury, perfect for Sunday brunch.

Price £9–£18 Underwood Wine Warehouse, James Fearson, Woodford Wine Room, Wimbledon Wine Cellar

Drink 2014–2015

Alc 13.5%

Pasqua, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto 2008

16.5/20pts (88/100pts)

Full-bodied, rich and long, with coffee, cocoa and red cherry aromas and flavours. Good with stews, or break your Port habit and try with Stilton.

Price £30 Mumbles Fine Wines

Drink 2014–2018

Alc 15%

Santa Margherita, Impronta del Fondatore Malbech, Veneto 2011

16.5/20pts (88/100pts)

A rare Italian Malbec, so this wins on novelty factor alone. Perhaps more Cahors-like than Argentina, with coffee, cocoa and tarry notes.

Price £12 Exel Wines

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 14.5%

Castello Monaci, Liante Salice Salentino, Puglia 2010

16.25/20pts (87/100pts)

Bright red fruits with black cherry, tar and flinty nuances on the juciy finish. Perfect with anything barbecued.

Price £10–£12 Customary Wines, Just Fine Wines

Drink 2014–2020

Alc 13.5%

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