Italian cuisine has long been a world favourite for its authentic flavours and guileless recipes rooted in simplicity and quality.

In fact, the country's cooking was officially granted Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity status by UNESCO last year.

While pasta is a mainstay of Italy's mealtimes and a symbol of the country's culinary traditions (54% of Italians eat pasta daily (Nextplora [2024]), it's also a paragon of versatility and inclusion.

From celebrated fine dining restaurants to community kitchens run by volunteers, pasta always has a place on Italian tables.

One of the world's top chefs, Massimo Bottura, who played an influential role in the UNESCO candidacy – which was conceived by Maddalena Fossati, editor of La Cucina Italiana magazine – runs the gamut, from his triple-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana to the international Food for Soul network of refectories, where nourishing meals are created from surplus foods for those in need.

Just say pasta

Although it's easy to just say pasta, when it comes to shapes, sauces, techniques and wine pairings, there is a universe of complexities.

Officially, over 300 pasta shapes exist, with more invented almost daily. Thanks to 3D printing, you can even order special occasion pasta to resemble anything from Easter bunnies to Christmas trees.

Ingredients for pasta are simple: flour and water. While in southern Italy durum wheat flour (semola or semolina) for dry pasta is most common, soft wheat is the typical flour of the north, where fresh pasta is more widespread; as it's lower in gluten, egg is often added for greater structure.

For hand-rolled pasta, a board and rolling pin (preferably beechwood) are essential, while cutter rollers are handy for getting the dimensions right. Pasta machines use teflon or bronze dies, the latter preferable for porous pasta that catches more of whichever delicious sauce it's served with.

Other tools include guitar-like frames for spaghetti alla chitarra, and gnocchi boards resembling butter pats for ridged pasta and gnocchi, again aimed at increasing sauce-clinging power.

Pasta heartlands

While every region has its must-try specialities, Emilia Romagna is considered the heartland of fresh egg pasta. Here, dishes are taken so seriously that official recipes are stored at Bologna's Chamber of Commerce, along with a golden sample representing the perfect width of tagliatelle (8mm).

It's hard to overstate the visceral attachment to certain specialities, and traditions are defended passionately: in a move to put a lid on one of the world's (but not Bologna's) favourite pasta dishes, the city mayor even led a 2019 campaign stating that ‘spaghetti bolognese does not exist’, in favour of authentic tagliatelle with ragout. Bolognese (beef and pork) ragout, that is.

Wherever you go you'll find a variation on the ragout theme, from duck in Veneto (with thick spaghetti-like bigoli) to wild boar, popular with pappardelle (wide ribbon pasta) and Chianti Classico or Montefalco Sagrantino in Tuscany and Umbria.

Emilia Romagna is most famous for its filled pasta. Dainty tortellini (weighing just 5g each, filled with mortadella, prosciutto, pork, Parmigiano Reggiano and nutmeg) are supposedly inspired by Venus's perfect navel, and served in a steaming broth suitable for any celebration.

One of chef Bottura's initiatives in his hometown, Modena, is Tortellante, a non-profit association centred on tortellini-making for people with autism (including his own son); the results are served at the on-site Bottega with Lambrusco that's often added to the broth.

Neighbouring cities Bologna and Modena have long disputed paternity of tortellini but generally agree on Castelfranco Emilia, a half-way house with a dedicated festival each September.

Filled delights

Whether they recall hats, crescents or body parts, the various crimped-edged shapes of filled pasta are conceived with the aim of keeping what's inside in.

In recent years pumpkin-filled pasta, originally from Mantua and Ferrara, has risen in popularity for its sweet and savoury flavours.

Exact recipes vary and are a closely guarded secret for cjarsons, another sweet-savoury pasta from Friuli in north-east Italy; common ingredients include dried fruit, herbs, spices, cocoa and jam with potato and ricotta. A structured Collio Bianco is ideal with such intense flavours.

In Sardinia, the closure of typical culurgiones (with potato, pecorino cheese, mint and garlic) is auspicious, resembling an ear of wheat for prosperity, while Piedmont speciality, agnolotti del plin (with roast meats) is purely practical, named after the pinching action used to seal them.

Curiously, agnolotti are sometimes served dry, in a linen napkin, and dunked into a cup of Barbera wine.

Long stories

Serving pasta in linen isn't limited to Piedmont: Rome restaurant La Ciambella serves cacio e pepe pasta (with pecorino romano cheese and black pepper) in a napkin. It's drier than usual, aimed at evoking the farmers of yesteryear who would eat while out in the fields.

Cacio e pepe is considered the mother of Rome's most famous pasta specialities, pecorino cheese and pepper being common to all. Add guanciale for alla gricia, and egg too for carbonara, or tomato for amatriciana.

Each sauce has its appropriate long pasta: tonnarelli (square-sectioned) for cacio e pepe, bucatini (hollow) with amatriciana, and spaghetti for carbonara. All work well with a structured regional white such as Frascati Superiore or Bellone.

Spaghetti (from ‘spago’, meaning string) is the tasty choice for midnight feasts and impromptu gatherings throughout Italy. In Naples and around the coast it's classically paired with clams; add mullet roe for a Sardinian favourite.

Spaghetti capital, Gragnano – the historic heart of dried pasta production south of Naples – is nowadays home to pasta-themed museums and experiences.

Pici and strangozzi are the preferred long pasta of central Italy, respectively round and square-sectioned, while Abruzzo on the east coast is home to fresh egg spaghetti alla chitarra, typically with delicious tiny meatballs.

Green pasta parties

Many Italian pasta recipes are vegetarian, incorporating pulses and seasonal vegetables. Another Abruzzo speciality, virtù teramane, traditionally eaten on 1 May, is like a culinary spring clean, with a huge variety of pulses, vegetables and pastas; whatever's left in the larder after winter. A cherry-coloured Cerasuolo, the archetypical all-rounder wine, is ideal.

Travelling south to Puglia, orecchiette alle cime di rapa (ear-shaped pasta with turnip greens) is a firm favourite on Italy's pasta map. Although turnips are a winter veg, the dish is a year-round mainstay here, as are Ligurian crowd-pleaser trofie al pesto and Sicily's pasta alla Norma (tomato, aubergine, ricotta salata and basil) – named after the opera by Catania-born composer Vincenzo Bellini.

Ultimate comfort food

Scientific research (including Barilla's 2025 study) has regularly found a correlation between pasta and emotional well-being, more so than other carbs.

There's no denying that whether its lasagne, Italy's traditional Sunday comfort food, or another of the many pasta dishes, it most certainly does have a built in feel-good factor – especially when enjoyed with a local wine.

Buon appetito!

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José Pizarro's seven days of food pairings for high street Rioja

We grabbed seven great everyday Rioja wines of different styles from the shelves, put them in the trolley, checked out and headed to Bermondsey in London, just south of the river Thames near Tower Bridge.

Waiting for us was celebrity chef José Pizarro, described by many as the Godfather of Spanish cooking and owner of a successful group of restaurants and eateries in London, southern Spain and Abu Dhabi, including three in Bermondsey Street SE1 alone (Lolo, José Tapas and Pizarro at Nos 102, 104 and 194 respectively).

He was ready to pair our high street selection with some of the signature dishes from his restaurants and career.

We hope these pairings will inspire you to buy a few bottles and get creative in the kitchen – Monday to Sunday.

Grab a copy of Pizarro’s most recent book, The Spanish Pantry: 12 Ingredients, 100 Simple Recipes (Quadrille, June 2025 – £28 via José Pizarro's website) and have a go at some Spanish classics.

A bit of flavour and comfort to get you through the week – without breaking the bank.

Monday

Tortilla from José Tapas

Red wine pairing: CVNE, Asúa Reserva 2020

Start the week with a classic dish paired with a classic bottle. The unctuous core of the tortilla de patatas – with or without the caramelised onions – that has been an all-time favourite of patrons at Pizarro’s tapas bar (and first venue), this year celebrating its 15th anniversary, has a perfect, effortless match in CVNE’s modern, everyday-classic oak-aged red.

An easy yet sophisticated pairing that’s all about no- nonsense, guaranteed satisfaction.

CVNE, Asúa Reserva 2020 | 93pts

£19-£21.75 Drinks Direct, Goedhuis Waddesdon, ND John, The Wine Society

Produced exclusively with grapes from estate-owned vineyards above 500m in Haro, this 100% Tempranillo lures you in with its seductive nose of violets, dried rose petals and tarragon.

The palate follows with structure but also freshness, balancing vivid acidity, juicy cherry and plum fruit, and broody touches of dark chocolate and coffee. Drink 2026-2030. Alcohol 14%.

Tuesday

Courgette carpaccio from Lolo

Rosé wine pairing: Ramón Bilbao, Rosado 2025

Affordability doesn’t need to translate into lack of flavour. One of the favourite dishes at Lolo by José Pizarro, the smoothly lit latest Bermondsey haunt of the Spanish chef, is based on the humble courgette, given a fancy carpaccio treatment and topped with buttery pine nuts, slow-roasted tomatoes and edible flowers.

It has been on the menu since Lolo opened in 2024 (currently £10 on the à la carte menu) and is going nowhere. It’s the same simple yet sophisticated simplicity in Ramón Bilbao’s Garnacha-based rosado – great value and refreshing allure, without loss of structure or texture.

Ramón Bilbao, Rosado 2025 | 89pts

£9.50 Co-op

Hands-down one of the best-value Spanish rosés on the high street: crisp and refreshing, superbly enjoyable yet structured enough for food.

Crunchy and well-defined cranberry, rhubarb, wild strawberry and white peach fruit mingle on the palate, outlined by an appetising saline rim. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 12%.

Wednesday

Gamba blanca al ajillo con huevos rotos from Pizarro

White wine pairing: Cosme Palacio, Glorioso Blanco 2024

What do you need on a Wednesday? A wholesome midweek dinner paired with a wine that’s easy but fine, fluid yet complex, sophisticated in a laidback kind of way.

You need a pairing that provides sustenance, is authentic and just reminds you that life is made of simple yet delicious things. By combining two Spanish basics – gambas al ajillo (prawns fried with garlic) and huevos rotos (runny fried eggs on a bed of french fries) – Pizarro created one of the signature dishes at his eponymous flagship restaurant and delivers just that hearty comfort.

A glass of Glorioso Blanco answers with invigorating freshness and salinity.

Cosme Palacio, Glorioso Blanco 2024 | 90pts

£11.50-£15 Reserve Wines, The Wine Society

A lovely blend of Viura with a touch of Tempranillo Blanco, in which crispy pear and clementine peel dominate the structured, vibrant palate.

There’s a salty turn of toasted almonds and preserved lemon, and it’s a touch unctuous and very juicy at the core. Gentle florality (hay, camomile) in the background. Lovely presence on the mid-palate, with width and a pleasant saline richness. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 12.5%.

Thursday

Mediterranean red prawn carpaccio from Lolo

Rosé wine pairing: Muga, Rosado 2025

With the weekend just around the corner you’ll want to keep things simple and fresh. Start getting into relaxation mode with this prawn carpaccio – seemingly easy to make, but a dish that will require patience and precision.

The secret is using the best ingredients only: super- fresh red prawns, juicy oranges and chilli. Or just head to Lolo to have it prepared for you! This is off the menu at this stage of the year (it’s not citrus season after all) but it will be back before long.

Pair with the rosado from Muga, a nuanced Garnacha- based pink that will pair perfectly both with the delicate flesh of the prawns and the pre-weekend mood.

Muga, Rosado 2025 | 91pts

£11.95-£16.99 Majestic, Martinez Wines, Waitrose Cellar, Waud Handford, The Wine Society

Delicate floral and herbal touches dance over cranberry, wild strawberry and pomegranate fruit. Top notes of rose and orange blossom are echoed on the palate, lifting the fleshy yellow and pink orchard fruit.

Voluminous and unctuous, yet with a zesty pep throughout. A blend of Garnacha with about 30% Viura. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 13.5%.

Friday

Clams & fino Sherry from José Tapas

White wine pairing: Montecillo, On the QT Bin 37 2024

Clams cooked in a fino-based sauce? Yes, please. Just the kind of simple-yet-special combination that will ease you into the weekend and it’s on rotation at Pizarro’s tapas bar.

The dish calls for a structured, poised white and the On the QT Bin 37 definitely meets the brief. It’s also, unquestionably, a special wine of which not many bottles are left. Grab yours while you can.

Montecillo, On the QT Bin 37 2024 | 93pts

£21.25 Waitrose Cellar

This delicious, rather unique expression of Garnacha Blanca hails from a single barrel selected by winemaker Mercedes García Rupérez and Waitrose buyer Xenia Ruscombe-King MW.

Structured and delightfully complex, the fleshy loquat, apricot and peach fruit is deftly topped by orange zest, acacia and almond blossom. There’s a peppery, tingling vibrancy to the finish. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 13%.

Saturday

Carabinero rice from Pizarro

Red wine pairing: La Rioja Alta, Viña Alberdi Selección Especial 2021

Wake up (not too early) on Saturday morning and head to the fishmonger. Saturday is the perfect day to indulge and splurge on top produce – such as some meaty, red-hued carabineros, wild-caught large deep-sea prawns prized for a meat that’s lobster-like in consistency but elevated in flavour.

Served with a rich, creamy rice accompaniment – as was once the case at Pizarro – it makes for a sophisticated yet filling dish that calls for a finely structured red with refreshing acidity at its core.

Go for La Rioja Alta’s Viña Alberdi Selección Especial, a wine that punches well above its weight (without ever getting tired) and delivers structure, finesse and drinkability in equal measures.

La Rioja Alta, Viña Alberdi Selección Especial Reserva 2021 | 93pts

£20 Waitrose Cellar

A beautiful expression of classical Rioja, 100% Tempranillo, perfect for elevated everyday drinking. The ripe cranberry, cherry and plum fruit is laced with notes of vanilla, cardamom, sage and powdered coffee.

The tannins are assertive but rounded and pave the way for the elegant and brightly spicy finish. Drink 2026-2031 Alc 14%.

Sunday

Marinated pork fillet from Lolo

Red wine pairing: Faustino, I Gran Reserva 2016

The marinated pork fillet now on the menu at Lolo is a special dish created to celebrate the 15th anniversary of José Pizarro’s first opening on Bermondsey Street in 2011.

It’s a rightful celebration of persistence and time, hallmarks of that cooking method – marinating – that requires foresight and patience. So think in advance if you want your perfectly marinated meat on Sunday.

The Faustino I has also greatly benefited from all of the time it has spent in the bottle and will work as a fine, savoury, earthy counterpoint to the meat and marinade. Sit back and get ready for another week ahead.

Faustino, I Gran Reserva 2016 | 93pts

£18.47-£25.95 Asda, Drinks Direct, Secret Bottle Shop, T Wright

While still a bit tightly coiled, even at 10 years old, this well-recognised Gran Reserva – a blend of Tempranillo with 8% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo – is already showing well-honed layering of dried tobacco leaf, coffee bean, liquorice root, prune and caramel.

Elegantly fragrant Earl Grey and Assam notes play in the background and linger on the savoury finish. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14%.

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Wine thrives in the picky bits flavour matrix

There’s a magic to summer eating that resists formality. It’s less about specific courses and more about moments: sun-warmed tables, clinking glasses and that irresistible sprawl of picky bits that somehow becomes the entire meal.

And if there’s a drinks partner that truly rises to the occasion every time, it’s wine. Not in a stiff, ceremonious sense, but as a fluid, flavour-led companion to the joyful chaos of grazing.

In my latest book The Picky Bits Sommelier, I explore a diverse and flavoursome array of wine styles and their perfect savoury counterparts.

It’s a journey in which I endeavoured to plot some of the much-loved classic picky bits – everything from mini pork pies, Cornish pasties and Scotch eggs to tempura prawns and vegetable samosas – into a distinct, four-part flavour matrix, making wine pairings a more enjoyable and accessible experience.

Picky bits, by their very nature, invite diversity. A grazing platter might swing from ‘Simple & classic’ – salted crisps, olives, chunks of cheddar and fish goujons – to ‘Complex & spicy’: harissa hummus, chorizo in oil and chicken satay skewers.

Then there’s the irresistible push and pull between ‘Salty & savoury’ and ‘Tangy & sweet’: cornichons, cured meats and ripe sundried tomatoes against creamy burrata, onion rings and barbecue hot wings.

It’s a flavour matrix that’s less linear, more kaleidoscopic – and that’s precisely where wine thrives.

Keeping it simple and classic

Start at the simpler end of the spectrum. Classic, uncomplicated snacks call for wines that refresh rather than overwhelm.

A bright Sauvignon Blanc works beautifully with mini goat’s cheese tarts; a zippy Albariño pairs beautifully with sweet and sharp pickled onions or gherkins.

The acidity cuts through salt, resetting the palate and helping to keep things lively. It’s the vinous equivalent of a sea breeze: clean, invigorating and quietly addictive.

Getting more complex: Think chilled reds or rosé

As things get a little more complex – say, grilled prawns, herby dips or charcuterie – you can begin to layer in wines with a touch more texture and nuance.

Think a chilled, light-bodied red such as a Pinot Noir with meatier picky bits, including pork pies, or Gamay with a classic melted camembert, straight from the oven and ready to dip with hunks of fresh bread.

Conversely, a dry rosé will have enough backbone to handle meat, shellfish and veg.

These wines bridge gaps effortlessly, weaving between flavours without stealing the spotlight, working with anything from prawn lollipops to tomato and mozzarella arancini.

Fresh, fruity wines to match picky bits with spice

Then we arrive at spice. Summer loves a bit of heat, whether it’s smoky paprika, chilli oil or a punchy salsa.

Here’s where many wines falter, but the trick is to dial down tannin and lean into fruit and freshness.

Off-dry Riesling is a classic for a reason: a whisper of sweetness soothes spice, especially when paired with vegetable samosas, while its acidity keeps everything in balance.

Alternatively, a juicy, low-alcohol red served slightly chilled can take the edge off heat while amplifying flavour.

Wines for salty & savoury picky bits

The ‘Salty & savoury’ quadrant is where indulgence really kicks in. Anchovies, cured meats, hard cheeses – these demand wines with either cleansing acidity or bold structure.

Fino Sherry, if you’re feeling adventurous, is sensational here, its saline tang echoing the food.

Otherwise, a mineral-driven white or a structured red such as a young Tempranillo will do the job with aplomb.

Pairing wine with 'tangy and sweet' elements

And let’s not forget the ‘Tangy & sweet’ elements: the pickles, chutneys, sun-ripened tomatoes and peppers that punctuate a summer spread.

These can be tricky to pair with, but also thrilling. Sparkling wine is a brilliant all-rounder: its acidity and bubbles dance happily with both sweetness and sharpness.

Sparkling rosé brings zest and zing to crispy tempura prawns. A lightly sweet Moscato or a fragrant Gewürztraminer can elevate more Asian-inspired cuisine, such as hoisin duck spring rolls, without feeling heavy.

Spirit of exploration

Ultimately, wine and picky bits are the perfect summer indulgence because they embrace informality without sacrificing pleasure. There’s no rigid rulebook here, just a spirit of exploration.

Whether you’re sprawled on a picnic blanket or hosting a garden gathering that drifts lazily into dusk, the combination invites sharing, discovery and a little bit of delicious excess.

And really, what more could you want from summer?

Wine with picky bits: Top pairings to try

Provolone cheese & smoked prosciutto rollitos

Pair with: Prosecco

The light, crisp notes and charismatic green orchard fruit strike a chord here.

Olives with rosemary & black pepper

Pair with: fino or manzanilla Sherry & tonic

The Sherry brings out the touch of sweetness in the olives and blends superbly with the warmth of the black pepper.

Caperberries / cocktail cornichons

Pair with: Albariño

A great Albariño brings additional intensity to the pairing: it will bring out sweetness in anything pickled.

Bocconcini mozzarella balls and/or Serrano ham croquettes

Pair with: Chardonnay

The creamy oakiness and subtle spices enhance the richer flavours of cheese and that touch of smokiness in the ham.

Cream cheese-stuffed cherry peppers

Pair with: Sangiovese

The fresh fruitiness of the peppers is accented beautifully by the softer red fruit in the wine.

Barbecue chicken wings

Pair with: Zinfandel

The stickiness of the wings and their sweet and sour sauce are the perfect playground for a big, bold Zin.

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Sunny summer days mean it’s time for seafood, but which wine to choose? Here are some golden rules – and refreshingly offbeat pairing suggestions.

How to choose a wine to pair with seafood: Advice from sommeliers

Remember the sauce

Chablis with fish, claret with meat – haven’t we come a long way since then? The seafood and wine pairings on offer from sommeliers these days range from Junmai Daiginjo sake to fino Sherry and from Georgian orange wines to bright, cherry-packed Sicilian Frappato.

There’s method in their madness, of course, with tried and tested matches adding another layer of complexity and flavour to your seafood feast, each enhancing the other – or at least that’s the theory.

There are some rules to follow, of course. There’s no point ruining a fine white Burgundy with a fat Hebridean scallop dressed with a vinegar-spiked beurre blanc when an off-dry Riesling will deliver just the right zingy balance, the sweetness riffing with the sauce.

So, there’s rule number one: match the wine with the sauce rather than the protein.

Think about acidity, weight and texture

Riffing with wine and food is something Fabio De Nicola embraces. The sommelier at Italian seafood restaurant Baccalà near London Bridge often likes to create balance through contrast.

‘For example, using high acidity to cut through richer or oily fish, or saline and mineral notes to highlight freshness and natural sweetness,’ he says, while pairing a vibrant yet creamy 2020 Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva from Casa Lucciola with a main of grilled prawns and squid with black lime and bitter greens.

Charlie Edwards agrees. Until recently the food and beverage director at Tom Brown at The Capital in London’s Knightsbridge, which was awarded its first Michelin star this year for its creative menu, Edwards believes you should always consider acidity when it comes to matching seafood and wine.

‘Acidity keeps things clean and bright,’ he says. ‘Shellfish and meatier fish often sit beautifully with wines that have a bit more body and mineral tension, like a Chardonnay from Burgundy, whereas lean white fish really shines alongside crisp, aromatic styles.

‘And look at the weight and texture of the dish,’ he adds. ‘Lighter, delicately cooked seafood tends to work best with fresh, precise wines that won’t overwhelm it, while richer dishes – whether that richness comes from the fish or the sauce – can take something with more depth.’

How has your seafood been cooked?

Another thing to consider is the cooking technique, says Marcello Colletti, sommelier at London’s swankiest new seafood restaurant opening, Lilibet’s in Mayfair.

‘If your fish is grilled, that introduces a smoky element, so think light reds such as Chilean País, Jura Poulsard or Oregon Pinot Noir. Or if the fish is pan-fried in butter, then look at rich Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc.’

Seafood with sake

And when you’re struggling to find that perfect match for your seafood dish? Consider sake, suggests Michele Orbolato head of wine and sake at London Japanese fine dining restaurant Luna Omakase.

‘Certain styles of sake contain umami, which gives them broader and more flexible pairing options with seafood,’ he says. ‘This allows sake to complement textures and flavours that can sometimes challenge wine.’

The preferred pairing for Luna’s ambrosial signature dish O-Toro tartare – bluefin tuna belly tartare, aged wasabi and caviar? A sparkling sake. ‘Masumi’s Origarami works beautifully with the dish, offering delicacy, freshness and gentle palate-cleansing qualities,’ enthuses Orbolato.

Keeping it simple

Want to keep it simple? Then stick to the well-trodden path of pairing coastal wines with seafood dishes – hello, Txakoli and the like. And if you’re stuck with what’s on offer at the local supermarket, there’s always good old Albariño – it works every time.

Five great wine and seafood pairings to try

Native oysters with vintage blanc de blanc Champagne

The richness of the Chardonnay matches the meatiness of the oyster, while the oxidative qualities of the ageing contrast with the salinity.

Fish & chips with manzanilla Sherry

You can’t beat a light, fresh manzanilla Sherry with fish and chips – served chilled, its bone-dry, salty, zesty profile cuts through the rich batter and even stands up to the vinegar

Grilled sardines with Assyrtiko

A punchy fish, especially when barbecued and doused in lemon, needs a punchy coastal wine with lots of citrussy acidity to cut through the oiliness and smoke – step forward Santorini Assyrtiko.

Turbot pil-pil with Godello

A recent discovery – high-acidity, minerally, aromatic Galician Godello easily stands up to the now-popular rich, garlicky Basque sauce.

Seafood platter with English sparkling wine

With its racy acidity and distinctive flinty minerality, English fizz shines served with towering tiers of simply cooked seafood.

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Pizza and wine pairing: Beyond the usual suspects

On a balmy evening at Bar Bucce in Miami, a slice of New York-style pizza bigger than my head is delivered at the bar with a glass of aged sake.

There's no way this works, I think, but I'll try just about anything – even something as odd as this.

‘I am always trying to break the stereotype that sake only goes with sushi,’ says Jacqueline Pirolo, beverage director and co-owner at Bar Bucce.

‘The aged sake, known as “koshu”, tends to have an oxidative, vermouth-like quality. The earthy, savoury, nutty notes play off the umami in the pizza perfectly. I only wish I had thrown a few mushrooms on your slice!’

Pizza has thrived on reinvention. It moves easily from casual street food to fine dining pies topped with caviar, eaten standing up or served on linen-draped tables.

Wine pairings, too, are evolving beyond the predictable glass of Chianti. Today’s diner wants finesse without the fuss, and pizza and wine combinations are just the thing.

'Cold Lambrusco with hot pizza is magic'

For Brent Kroll, owner of Pop Fizz Bar and Maxwell Park wine bar in Washington, DC, the secret to pairing pizza is a one-and-done deal.

‘I bang the drum for Lambrusco all the time,’ he says. ‘People still assume it’s sweet, but dry Lambrusco is one of the best wines for pizza. You’ve got fat, salt and richness, and the wine brings fruit, freshness and bubbles. It’s a classic sweet-and-salty combo.’

Kroll’s Detroit-style sourdough deep-dish pizzas at Pop Fizz – fermented in Ford automotive pans inspired by the style’s industrial origins – take creative liberties, with pies topped with ‘Big Mac’ beef, and Buffalo chicken and ranch dressing.

Sparkling reds work particularly well, he explains, because they can shapeshift with a glossary of flavours, carbonation refreshes the palate and the subtle tannins grip fatty toppings such as pepperoni and other cured meats.

‘Cold Lambrusco with hot pizza is magic,’ he says. ‘Temperature matters as much as flavour.’

A drizzle of hot honey, now nearly ubiquitous on American pies, finds balance in Lambrusco’s lower alcohol and ripe fruit character.

Through fruitiness and perceived sweetness, even dry versions soften heat from ingredients such as the kimchi that tops one of Kroll’s pies.

Kroll has even started an annual Lambrusco week at Maxwell Park, where he shares multiple producers and education with diners.

‘Pizza is communal,’ he says. ‘It’s relaxed. Wine should feel the same way.’

Complex and casual

Across the Atlantic, Michele Pascarella, chef-owner of Napoli on the Road in London’s Soho, sees pizza’s future firmly rooted in craftsmanship, which is increasingly aligned with fine wine.

‘Pizza is, at its core, a simple dish. But creating it perfectly, getting the dough, the cooking, the ingredients just right, is incredibly complex,’ he says.

His award-winning Ricordi d’Infanzia (‘childhood memories’) pizza, for example, is layered with 12-hour slow-cooked Neapolitan ragù and 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano cream.

Pascarella says it calls for Campanian red variety Pallagrello Nero, its dark fruit and liquorice notes mirroring the pie’s richness.

For the Carciofi e Patate option – topped with a delicate combination of parsnip cream, fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella), grilled artichokes and sliced potatoes – Pascarella prefers either a Greco di Tufo white, where the citrus and mineral tension cuts through the creaminess, or a lightly sparkling red such as Gragnano, which offers red fruit and lift.

Fermentation, fermentation

Back in Miami, Pirolo’s sake pairing shows that pizza can be a natural match with many fermented beverages.

At Bar Bucce, pizzas are New York-style (thin crust) with an Italian spirit, from a shrimp pie layered with stracciatella to a crisp marinara finished with anchovy oil.

To go with the shrimp pie, Pirolo pours Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo – a dark Italian rosé with zesty acidity and herbal notes.

The anchovy oil-finished pie gets a brut Franciacorta pairing, ‘hopefully in magnum form to make a party of it with a group of friends’, she says. ‘Bubbles and pizza were my original love before sake and pizza.’

Effervescent drinks, from sparkling wines to makgeolli (Korean lightly sparkling rice wine), beer and spritz cocktails, thrive because they refresh the palate.

Chilled reds echo pizza’s informality while preserving complexity.

Oxidative styles, whether aged sake or brioche-scented, traditional-method wines, amplify umami and browned crust flavours.

Lounging at Bar Bucce, the sake glass empties faster than expected; another hot slice is on the way. The nutty sake works with the yeasty dough, and the deep umami notes make the Pecorino cheesier.

With the sun setting over Miami palms, I chuckle at the revelation of a seemingly impossible pairing.

Three surprisingly great pizza and wine pairings to try

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The first hint of chestnuts roasting over open fires and holly garlands sheathing street lamps began well before December was even underway – and we’re not complaining.

With 2025 now at an end and temperatures dipping to frosty negatives, the holiday season adds a much-needed infusion of cheer and festivities that encourage fêting both the past year and the one to come.

We’ve found a few ways to ring in 2026 in the most stylish of settings, from lavish caviar pop-ups in Paris to sky-high dining in the Swiss Alps – plus the most sumptuous new suites to snag for a ski getaway – these haute happenings are sure to get you in the holiday spirit.

Unmissable experiences

Toast 2026 at celebrity chef Scott Conant’s new hotspot Leola at Baha Mar in The Bahamas

Nassau’s Baha Mar, an over-the-top resort perched along the Caribbean’s famous white-sand Cable Beach, is a year-round party thanks to events like the Bahamas Culinary & Arts Festival, where Bahamian Lenny Kravitz recently performed for the first time in his native island country.

For New Year’s Eve, Jamaican Grammy Award-winning artist Sean Paul will rang in 2026 with a live performance, fireworks, and dancing under the stars.

Before the show, sample a selection of plates from Baha Mar’s 40-plus restaurants bearing some of the biggest names in the culinary world, including Daniel Boulud and Marcus Samuelsson, or take a seat at two-time James Beard Award-winning chef Scott Conant’s newest eatery, Leola.

Inspired to evoke the feel of a 1920s speakeasy, Conant’s sultry space is outfitted with velvet furnishings, gilded design details, and extravagant chandeliers.

For the ultimate New Year’s indulgence, order the foie gras-filled tortelli in balsamico tradizionale and the rigatoni with jumbo lump crab, which of course pairs best with a robust Italian Barolo – and the old world-heavy wine list has plenty of standout vintages and producers to choose from.

Savour seasonal truffles during an intimate Sunday lunch at Mirazur in Menton

Lauded chef Mauro Colagreco’s three Michelin-starred Mirazur, suspended over the Mediterranean Sea in Menton, on the French Riviera, has claimed a coveted spot as one of the world’s top restaurants.

On the cusp of its 20th anniversary, chef Colagreco shows no sign of slowing down – he’s even bringing in a ‘gastronomic curator,’ Ferran Adrià (of the now-closed El Bulli) to assist with an anthological menu revisiting two decades of the eatery’s culinary creations.

If you can’t wait until April for the month-long anniversary edition, sample the chef’s locally focused cuisine in one of the restaurant’s most intimate of spaces: La Puerta, a private dining room and chef’s table where you can watch the master at work in the open kitchen.

Wines are pulled from the space’s cellar and vinyl records set the tone for the chalet-like experience that would feel just as fitting in Courchevel as on the Côte d’Azur.

Gift a collector-worthy cuvée from Château Lagrange

Château Lagrange’s history in Médoc’s St-Julien appellation runs deep, with a heritage dating back to the 16th century. While the grand cru classé vineyard hasn’t changed since the 1855 classification, the estate, along with the help of winemaker Matthieu Bordes, has been incorporating more sustainable viticulture practices such as biodiversity regeneration and plot-by-plot vinification since Japan’s Suntory Group took the reins in 1983.

To honour the anniversary, Château Lagrange has released a limited-edition cuvée as part of its Heritage Collection: a 2023 magnum modelled after vintage Bordeaux bottles and crafted from historic parcels.

The blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Merlot nods to when the vineyard was more Merlot-heavy at the start of the estate’s Suntory chapter. Presented in a minimalist oak case with a trio of leather straps, this subtle celebration of the art of wabi-sabi adds a Japanese twist to the classic Bordeaux.

Sleep in a sumptuous Lalique-filled suite in Courchevel’s newest boutique hotel

Monaco-based Maya Collection’s haute restaurants have expanded everywhere from Dubai to Montenegro, and the latest address on the list is one just as lauded: glamorous French ski town Courchevel 1850.

A first for the collection, Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 is in a category of its own in Courchevel, with just 14 rooms styled in a minimalist, Japanese aesthetic by celebrated architect and interior designer Sylvestre Murigneux.

Lalique is prominently on display throughout the boutique hotel, but the dedicated Lalique Suite and Apartment is entirely outfitted in the French maison’s legendary crystal – which you’ll find everywhere from the sculpted headboard and sink to the deconstructed prism chandeliers floating above the dining room table and bar.

At the first alpine outpost of MayaBay, locally sourced ingredients are woven into the menu of elevated takes on classic Japanese and Thai fare – one of the standouts being the Choo Chee lobster, grilled and coated in a Thai red curry with pineapple and red bell peppers.

Ski like (and with) an Olympian on an alpine escapade in the Italian Dolomites

After catching pros during the Winter Olympic Games in Milano and Cortina, jet off to join racing legends and Olympians Travis Ganong and Marie-Michèle Gagnong in Italy’s South Tyrol for a five- to seven-night retreat at COMO Alpina Dolomites.

Call the Alpe di Siusi – dotted with mountain huts serving up South Tyrolean specialties – your base as you perfect your techniques on Val Gardena’s iconic pistes.

After a day on the slopes, recovery comes in the form of restorative yoga, sledding under the stars, and dinners designed around local alpine cuisine (mountain herbs, meadow-raised beef) at both the One MICHELIN Key hotel and an authentic, rustic rifugio.

Indulge in Paris’s most iconic caviar during a winter pop-up at Hôtel de Crillon

Savoir-faire is a term often reserved for chefs and vintners, but century-old Caviar Kaspia has rightfully earned a reputation as a master in the art of caviar.

The Parisian institution has collaborated with everyone from Giambattista Valli to Jacquemus, but this season, it’s popping up in space that couldn’t be more fitting: Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel.

Taking over the gilded Bar Les Ambassadeurs and adjacent Jardin d’Hiver, Caviar Kaspia is adding its signature pop of teal to the marble-clad spaces.

Co-branded winter white matryoshka dolls open to reveal selections of caviar served with signature mother-of-pearl spoons and paired with Kaspia’s iconic vodkas (the cherry is a favourite) and Duval Leroy-crafted house Champagne.

While Kaspa classics like caviar grilled cheese, caviar-topped gamberoni carpaccio, and the caviar-stuffed baked potato are must-orders, try one of the newer plates like the agnolotti del plin with king crab – which pairs beautifully with Kaspia’s Joseph Mellot-crafted Sancerre.

Dine & drink above the Alps at Six Senses Crans-Montana

Swiss hideaway Six Senses Crans-Montana, perched above the main gondola in Crans (half of the swish ski resort duo) is known for spectacular skiing and standout Valais wines, which you can sip on a gourmet snowshoeing tour along woodland trails or at the redesigned Ora Bar.

Here, cocktails and mocktails are infused with ingredients sourced from within a 100-mile radius – and the sweeping mountain views are just as impressive. Start with a sundowner after a day on the slopes, or end the evening at the dedicated cigar and cognac lounge.

To really embrace the alpine feel, ski right in to the expansive, forest-encased terrace of brasserie Wild Cabin, another newish addition to the property, where wood-fired fare is the star of a slopeside lunch that blends the best of local and seasonal ingredients for plates like braised leg of lamb with pumpkin purée and Swiss filet mignon with homemade chimichurri-yoghurt sauce and pearl onions.

Sip Simon Porte Jacquemus’s latest creation delving into the world of champagne

The French designer behind the eponymous mega-hit brand keeps churning out hit after hit, whether it’s on the runway in Paris or transforming a lavender field in Provence into the ultimate catwalk.

For his latest creation, Jacquemus has reimagined Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2018, a limited-edition bottle embossed with Simon’s handwritten logo and signature, wrapped in a couture-like Toile du Marais gauzy fabric.

While the bubbles certainly steal the show, Simon enlisted Camille Orfèvre, one of Paris’s last master metalsmiths, to design a sculptural rafraîchissoir (cooler) inspired by Medici vases that’s handcrafted from silver-plated metal – a work of art that takes more than 40 hours over the course of several weeks to create.

Only 50 (manufactured on request) will be available, and the collector-worthy piece includes a glass set and flight of La Grande Dame vintages: a bottle of 2018 (the 25th vintage of the cuvée originally launched in 1972), a magnum of 2012, and a jeroboam of 1990 – Simon’s birth year.

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A sommelier by trade, with a degree in economics, Jeffrey Koren is director of wine at The Chancery Rosewood, London. His hospitality career began during university in Edinburgh, and he eventually left the corporate world to pursue it full time. He trained in Spain, and worked in top-tier restaurants across the UK and Scandinavia, including as sommelier at Michelin three-star Maaemo in Oslo. He later moved into wine buying at UK merchant Lay & Wheeler, before returning to hospitality as head of wine at Brasserie Marceline in London’s Canary Wharf.

My first memorable wine experience

Funnily enough, I can’t recall the wine I drank! As a student, I moved into a new house and bought the most expensive bottle of red wine my budget would allow and shared it with my new housemates. In many ways, it’s what we try to do with the wine programme at The Chancery Rosewood – not just sell a bottle of wine, but give people a truly unforgettable experience.

My go-to everyday wines

I don’t often drink when I’m at home, but my go-to wines tend to be crisp, fresh and mineral. Albariño is a firm favourite, and there’s almost always a bottle from winemakers Xurxo Alba (of Bodegas Albamar) or Anselmo Mendes in my fridge.

My favourite supermarket buy

I’m always impressed by the value that can be found in white Bordeaux, such as [the dry white from Sauternes] G de Guiraud.

My most embarrassing moment at work

Luckily, I’ve managed to avoid any major embarrassing moments, though I think most wine professionals have managed to break a glass or two in their time.

Pet hate

When it comes to wine pairings or wines by the glass, I prefer to let people come to their own conclusions about the wine rather than provide tasting notes. It’s important to spend time speaking about the people and places behind each bottle, as well as its justification for being included on the list or paired with a particular dish. Tasting notes can be quickly forgotten, but a good story is incredibly memorable.

My death row food and wine pairing

Champagne and fried chicken, or Champagne and oysters, or Champagne and BBQ flavour Hula Hoops, or Champagne and, well, you get the idea…

Best food and wine match at The Chancery Rosewood

There are so many different outlets here that it’s hard to pick a favourite. Alsatian winemaker Christophe Mittnacht’s Cuvée Gyotaku, which is featured in Tobi Masa, has been specially made with Japanese food in mind. His wife Yuka is a talented Japanese chef, and it’s a very gastronomic wine that pairs beautifully with the omakase.

In Serra, the Estate Xinomavro from Ktima Foundi has been a favourite with so many of the Mediterraneaninspired dishes.

In Jacqueline, our executive pastry chef Marius Dufay uses biodynamic produce to create one of the most innovative afternoon teas in London. Domaine Vacheron is one of Sancerre’s truly elite producers and farms biodynamically. The wine matches both the flavours and the space’s philosophy.

My fallback quick after-work fix

Champagne is for all occasions – especially after a long day at work!

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

Given The Chancery Rosewood’s history as the old US embassy, I’m thrilled to have a close relationship with so many iconic American producers. I’m especially proud of our selection of Pinot Noir from Oregon, which includes producers such as Flâneur Wines and Lingua Franca. My personal favourite is the Willamette Valley producer Maggie Harrison of Antica Terra, which makes one of the most hotly sought-after allocations of Oregon Pinot Noir.

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests

Our house Champagne isn’t what people would expect from a property of our size. We are privileged to partner with Pol Roger, and even the entry-level Brut Réserve has been hand-riddled (in the traditional way) and aged for four years in the house’s cellars. The result is a Champagne that stands out as one of the most exciting wines in its category.

Wines I’d avoid ordering from a restaurant list

I’d steer clear of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that wasn’t bottled in New Zealand. I’d also avoid anything ordered in bulk and bottled in market. Organisations such as Appellation Marlborough Wine support local growers, protect the reputation of the region and are a marker for quality.

Wine style I’m most excited about at the moment

Globally, there are so many examples of old-vine Grenache being made well. From places such as Spain, southern France, Australia or South Africa – there are loads of producers making exciting wines.

Wine style/grape that I really don’t enjoy drinking

I’ve never been enamoured with Viognier. There are a few examples I’ve tried that have come close to changing my mind, but I’m yet to be completely convinced.

Wine region/style that offers the greatest value for money right now

Value for money is usually relative. In the context of Burgundy, many exciting wines from the Mâconnais or Hautes-Côtes de Nuits show incredibly well against more highly priced peers. South African wines from top producers remain competitively priced, as do many from Central Europe.

My favourite wine region to visit, and favourite destination while I’m there

I adore Piedmont, and Ristorante Le Torri in the medieval village of Castiglione Falletto in the heart of Barolo is remarkable. There’s nothing quite like Piedmontese hospitality, and the region’s warmth and charm are something that everyone should experience at least once.

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An Antipodean Christmas barbecue

Smoke, char and spice can be cruel palate partners to delicate Champagnes. It’s a shame to bypass the bubbles entirely, though.

So look out for Pinot-heavy Champagnes that have perhaps seen some oak or a decent level of ageing (vintage level or above), such as Bollinger’s latest B16 limited edition vintage.

This is also great territory for juicier, deeper styles of rosé Champagne, where use of red Pinot Noir can bring a little substance and food-friendly grip to tackle those richer flavours alongside gentle dosage.

With the barbecue smoking away, it’s best not to over complicate things – Taittinger, Piper-Heidsieck, Veuve Clicquot and Laurent-Perrier offer more pronounced red-fruit expressions among the maisons, with Perrier-Jouët’s Blason Rosé also on juicy, easy-going form.

A traditional Japanese…KFC?

KFC reportedly makes one third of its annual sales of fried chicken at Christmas time in Japan, in a tradition that developed in the 1970s thanks to the efforts of Takeshi Okawara, who managed the country’s first outlet in Nagoya.

Arguably this makes Japan home to the most Champagne-friendly Christmas dinner in the world – crisp, salty and with minimal spice or sweetness, fried chicken is a well-worn Champagne match, especially with blanc de blancs.

There’s no need to think that fast food only merits entry-level Champagne, though.

To really hold up to the traditional accompaniments such as mac ‘n’ cheese, you might want a dash of ageing, or oak richness.

Long-aged prestige blanc de blancs, such as Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, are a classic match, and vintage options such as Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2016 or Palmer Blanc de Blancs 2018 are also well suited.

Ripe, oak-influenced non-vintage grower Champagnes such as those from Carré Frères or Doyard would work beautifully.

A Greek feast

Mediterranean flavours call for Champagnes with some breadth and vinosity.

Dishes with red meat such as traditional roast lamb, roasted vegetable flavours, or tangy and savoury lahanodolmàdes (stuffed cabbage rolls) in a lemony sauce would all do well with Champagnes that have seen some ageing post-release, or a non-vintage with a healthy dose of reserve wine.

Bruno Paillard’s Première Cuvée features a perpetual reserve of wines going back to 1985 which really ups the depth and savoury, food-friendly character on the palate.

Avoid anything too Chardonnay-heavy or pure in style. Oak-aged cuvées such as Billecart-Salmon’s Brut Sous Bois will be perfect, too.

A Swedish ‘julbord’

There’s plenty to enjoy with Champagne when it comes to northern European and Scandinavian food, but one ingredient that sets the hazard lights flashing is vinegar; pickled herring is one to save for the schnapps.

Traditional salmon and potato-based courses, though, provide happier matches, although strong smoky/sweet marinades used for hot smoked salmon and gravlax will kill delicate Champagnes. So go for something Pinot Noir-forward (even rosé), fruity but not too vinous, and probably not zero dosage.

Of the houses, Charles Heidsieck’s Brut or Piper Heidsieck’s Essential Blanc de Noirs would be good bets.

Or look to the Aube, where rosés, such as Drappier’s Rosé de Saignée, would be perfect.

South Korean winter favourites

31% of Korea’s population is Christian, and while Christmas is a minor holiday here – there’s no traditional single holiday meal – the winter period features traditional foods such as manduguk (dumpling soup), tteokguk (rice cake filled with meat or seafood and served with clear broth), and sweet potato noodles.

South Korea has proven a growth market for Champagne, with the country’s umami-rich cuisine well suited to certain styles.

To match this, look for some savour from Pinot Noir and Meunier, longer lees ageing, or reserve wines, as the strong flavours in the food may kill very fresh styles.

Henri Giraud’s wines, such as MV20, could tackle many of these savoury, deep and even spicy layers.

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The Port industry is experiencing a quick and exciting transformation. While many producers are producing ever-more characterful and balanced wines, they remain fearlessly committed to history and tradition – in the cellar as well as on the table.

Nothing is more evocative of the endurance of traditions than Christmas celebrations. And the festive season is the time of year when Port is allowed to shine brightly on the dinner table – and under the Christmas tree. Port makes for such a stylish and thoughtful gift – mostly as a companion to the season’s luscious cheese spreads.

However, making the most out of this flagship coupling is not as straightforward as it may seem.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Port wine is its complex diversity; the multiple styles, the intricate terroirs along the meandering banks of the Douro and the identity of each Port house which is translated into an incredible array of wines.

This in turn means that there isn’t a glass of Port suitable for all cheeses – if you want to enjoy the full gamut of flavours and textures in both or either, you’ll need to embark on a pairing journey.

In other cheese and wine pairing articles we’ve explained why one of the main enemies of milk-based foods is tannins (hence why we suggest that a full-bodied, aged white, in lieu of red, is a much better go-to pairing for cheese platters). It follows that a Vintage Port, with its luscious fruit and assertive tannins, will easily overpower the delicate aromatics of a brie or the creaminess of a Camembert.

So does one need to forego that special bottle of Port saved for Christmas dinner? Absolutely not. It’s all about embracing complexity and enjoying the fun of exploring both Ports and cheeses. Use it as an excuse to open more bottles and expand your festive cheese spread!

Happy endings, better beginnings

The first myth worth debunking is that you need to save your Port for the end of the meal. Some Port styles are best suited for other parts of your festive meals. Not least as a stage setting aperitif; nothing more refreshing and delicious than a white Port & Tonic. Experiment with different white Ports, mixers and toppings served alongside canapés.

Substantial starters can also benefit from a Port companion. A starter of foie gras with pickled walnuts paired with an old Vintage Port is the stuff of dreams. It cuts right through the fatty richness of the dish while joining in an harmonious dialogue of earthy flavours.

And onto the pièce de résistance: the acidity and subtle nuttiness of slightly aged Tawny (ten or 20 years old) will enhance your goose and turkey, especially if served with a rich gravy or cranberry sauce.

Further aged Tawnys and aged Whites, on the other hand, are perfect alongside chocolate or caramel-based desserts.

Decanter Premium is the ideal last-minute gift for wine lovers

Battle of equals

Festive moments are often punctuated by Vintage Ports from meaningful years. However, as mentioned above, when it comes to food pairing you’ll need to tread carefully due to the aromatic and tannic power of these wines.

Creamy, soft, mild cheeses will see its fat bind unpleasantly with the tannins. What you need is a powerful cheese to match. Aged, hard and spicy cheeses – such as aged pecorino, aged Cheddar, Lincolnshire Poacher, aged Comté or Parmigiano-Reggiano – will offer the perfect counterpoint in both flavour and texture. ‘[Vintage] is a favourite style, and one that people often resolve for special occasions,’ says Filipe Wang, sommelier of the JNcQUOI group (multiple locations in Portugal). ‘What we’re considering here is matching strengths.’

Intense – non-creamy – blue cheeses, such as thievery Christmassy, much-loved Stilton or matured Roquefort, will also have a great match in the deep juicy fruit and balsamic nuances of Vintage Port.

The key, common denominator in all these cheeses is salt, ‘I would favour young Vintages which have really strong tannins – strong, salty cheeses will balance them perfectly,’ Says Wang. ‘The saltiness [of the cheeses] is important; it’s the perfect counterpoint to the tannins.’

Add some dried cranberries, glazed orange peel, prunes or walnuts to the mix to take the pairing to the next level.

Here comes the White

One of the most exciting and fast-evolving styles of Port comes in multiple hues of amber. White Port (of which we explored an exciting selection in our December 2025 issue) can deliver both the fruity allure and zesty twist needed for a perfect Port & Tonic as well as – in the aged categories – incredible complexity, luscious nuttiness, intense orchard fruit (both fresh and dried) and a long finish with lingering honey and spice.

White Ports make for perfect companions for softer, creamier cheeses. ‘A young Extra Dry with goat’s cheeses – which tend to have more acidity and a fresher, sometimes citric, finish – will be a really good combination,’ says Wang. ‘The wine’s acidity and fruity profile will match the delicate profile of the cheese.’ Brie, Camembert, Wigmore or young Crotin will also have a good match in a young White Port. More intense counterparts – such as St Jude, Reblochon or St Marcellin – will be best alongside a White Colheita.

Tawny – the sweet spot

One of Port’s finest styles, Tawny, covers a quite wide array of profiles depending on how long the wines have aged in barrel. ‘I personally like to match cheeses, especially those with a nutty, slightly sweet finish – 18-month Gryere for example – with ten and 20 year old Tawnys,’ says Wang. ‘30 [year olds] and above are too concentrated. I wouldn’t recommend having them with cheese at all – I think they’re best enjoyed with a dessert or, better even, a cigar.’

Some fresh grapes, membrillo (quince paste) and roasted winter nuts are perfect add-ons to a Tawny and cheese combination.

Creative versatility

If you’re on a budget (aren’t we all!?) and/or don’t want to open more than one bottle of Port there are reliable all-rounders you can rely on. The absence of tannins and fine acidity of a White Port and the filigree nuttiness of a 20 year old Tawny makes them the best bets for ideal all-rounders, that will cope with the different palate tension of cheeses (fat, salt, acidity, umami).

The ultimate rule is, however, that you drink your favourite Port, surrounded by your favourite people. And you might want to make Port a source of comfort and a welcome treat all year round – Port surely deserves a place at the table beyond the festive period.

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Six grape varieties capable of powering brilliant wines to drink with beef:

• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Shiraz / Syrah
• Malbec
• Garnacha / Grenache
• Saperavi
• Viura (white Rioja)

It’s hard to beat the comfort of a roast beef lunch or well-cooked steak accompanied by a delicious bottle of red wine, and the appeal only grows as the outside temperature plunges.

Many fuller-bodied red wines are great options for pairing with beef, especially if you’re planning a hearty roast for the Christmas dinner table. 

Classic choices include Cabernet Sauvignon and related red blends, such as from Bordeaux, California’s Napa Valley or Western Australia’s Margaret River, as well as Syrah / Shiraz and Malbec wines. 

Balance is always key in a great wine, but more intense dishes can generally handle bolder reds that marry luscious fruit and well-integrated tannins – ideally enlivened by a streak of refreshing acidity.

Yet, there many cuts of beef and even more wine styles in the world. Added to which, experimenting is part of the fun and personal preference is always crucial when it comes to food and wine pairing.

Four things to consider when pairing wines with beef:

• Cut
• Age
• Cooking time
• Accompaniments, including sauces

Expert view: matching the intensity

‘I always think about the intensity of the dish matching with the intensity of the wine,’ said Sinéad McCarthy, group wine manager for the award-winning Hawksmoor steakhouse restaurants. 

‘I’m also thinking about the sauce, as well, which is something people forget.

‘So when you’ve got that really rich gravy with the roast beef, you just want [a wine] that has a bit of muscle to stand up to it,’ said McCarthy, who also co-owns Fíon Eile wine shop and bar in Dublin, Ireland.  

She suggested ‘New World’ Cabernet Sauvignon, such as from South Africa, and also Malbec as classic choices, but added, ‘Something I’ve been really loving lately is Saperavi from Georgia.’

Many wines’ concentration and oak profile can work really well with intense beef gravies, she noted.

More than one way to cut it

McCarthy said the cut and ageing profile of beef or steak is a key consideration when thinking about a wine to uncork.

Cooking time can have an impact; a medium-to-well-done steak might stand up to a wine with more tannic structure. 

‘But, for me, I’m always thinking about how much fat is in the beef – so what cut is it, and then how long has been dry-aged?,’ McCarthy said. 

A fillet dry-aged for a relatively short period of time can work well with a lighter, more elegant style of red. ‘Whereas, those 35-day, even 45-day dry-aged meats have got such intense flavour that your need to match that with the wine.’ 

There are many possibilities. ‘I’m really loving Grenache and Garnacha at the moment,’ said McCarthy, suggesting these wines as great pairings for Chateaubriand with relatively low dry-ageing. 

She highlighted Garnachas from Spain’s mountainous Sierra de Gredos, west of Madrid, and also Grenache from South Australia’s McLaren Vale. ‘They’ve still got lovely concentration of fruit, but these really lovely fine tannins and kind of an elegant red-fruited flavour profile.’ 

In terms of fresher takes on classic styles, South American wine expert Patricio Tapia, editor of the annual Guida Descorchados, also previously recommended Argentina’s higher-altitude Malbecs with steak.

Meanwhile, bolder red wines for beef with longer dry-ageing may take drinkers to southern Italy. ‘Puglia has been really popular for us lately, [such as] Negroamaros, Primitivos,’ said McCarthy.

Zinfandel, prominent in California, has been established as near-exact genetic match with Primitivo.

Alternatively, if you are lucky enough to have access, McCarthy said an earthy-yet-elegant, mature Pinot Noir may pair well with gamey flavours in a long-dry-aged cut of beef. 

Another option previously recommended by Decanter is Nebbiolo-powered Barolo or Barbaresco, in which relatively bold tannins have softened over time to fuse with a complex array of red fruit, acidity and subtle sweet spice.

Can you pair white wine with beef?

It’s totally possible to pair some fuller-bodied white wines with beef, despite this being widely considered a serious faux-pas. 

Richly textured orange wines, benefiting from extended contact with grape skins, are also worth exploring. ‘A really good beef tartare with an orange wine can be amazing,’ said McCarthy.

Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school, previously wrote a Decanter article on pairing red meat with white wine.

White Rioja featured strongly, and McCarthy also name-checked the style. Hawksmoor’s Dublin restaurant features Bodegas Bhilar’s ‘Phinca Hapa’, technically a white Rioja but listed as an orange wine.

‘It’s a white Rioja but it has long lees ageing and long skin contact,’ explained McCarthy. ‘It’s just delicious. It’s one of those orange wines that you almost need a knife and fork [for].’

In general, look for highly phenolic white wines with some lees ageing. ‘If you have some skin contact, as well, I think that really helps,’ said McCarthy, suggesting trying this with a dry-aged rib-eye. 

For a fillet, a top dry Riesling with some lees ageing could be a winner. ‘Those wines can be really rich in texture, as well,’ McCarthy noted. 

Alternatively, look to barrel-aged Chardonnay or Viognier for complex white wines with the heft to pair well with beef – as noted in Decanter’s Festive Wine Guide for 2025.

In the end, food and wine pairing is also about the situation.

McCarthy advised to ‘try not to overthink it’, also adding that a delicious wine, with an interesting story, that everyone around the table enjoys can be just as good as finding the absolute perfect pairing.

‘And then it all comes back to the overall dominating flavour of the dish and thinking about that with the wine rather than every single element on the plate.’

Tasting notes: Inspiration for pairing wine with beef this Christmas

All wines featured below have been reviewed by Decanter experts and offer a range of price-points, including top UK high-street picks featured in Decanter’s Festive Wine Guide.

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Five examples of grape varieties that power great wines to pair with roast duck or goose are:

• Pinot Noir 
• Barbera
• Mencía
• Riesling
• Pinot Gris

Traditional roast duck is a key element of Christmas dinner in Denmark, while goose was at one time the go-to festive meat in England.

Whether you’re going Danish-style or old-school this year, or simply fancy a change, duck or goose will likely give you a richer meat on the festive dinner table than the classic turkey.

Look for medium-bodied wines with relatively high acidity to cut through the fat content of the showpiece roast duck or goose, but also enough juicy fruit concentration and depth to meet the intensity of the meat.

Pinot Noir is often named as a classic pairing for duck, while white wines combining refreshing acidity with richness can be a great match for goose, such as off-dry Riesling or Alsace Pinot Gris.

Decanter Premium is the ideal last-minute gift for wine lovers!

Think about the intensity of the dish, and any elements of sweetness or acidity delivered by other ingredients on the plate or table, too.

Ultimately, it’s also important to remember that personal preference is a big part of the equation when it comes to food and wine pairing.

Is red or white wine better with roast duck?

Medium-bodied reds with a good concentration of bright red fruit and relatively high acidity should generally work well with roast duck.

Some oak and tannin influence can add depth, but watch out for them overpowering the dish. Tannins should soften over time in the best red wines built to age.

Pinot Noir is a classic choice with duck, although styles differ in intensity and balance of aromas. Burgundy is Pinot Noir’s heartland, but there are many regions to explore around the world. See Decanter’s recent panel tasting on German Spätburgunder, for instance.

Sauces or other ingredients, such as those in a stuffing mix, might affect the equation.

This Decanter.com archive article by Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school, offers advice on pairing wine with duck cooked in different ways.

He suggested Pinot Gris from Alsace as a white wine option with classic duck à l’orange, or Mencía from Spain’s Galicia region as a great red wine option.

‘[The wine] needs to have enough acidity and a hint of richness to cope with the sauce, yet enough body not to be overwhelmed by the texture of the bird.’

Mourvèdre, Merlot, Syrah or Cabernet Franc red wines all have potential to match well with duck. Mourvèdre-dominant wines ‘can be a sensual partner for duck, especially cooked Provençal style with olives’, wrote Decanter food and wine expert Fiona Beckett, author of Matchingfoodandwine.com.

Wines to drink with roast goose

A roast goose on the festive table could call for the rich texture and refreshing acidity of some top Riesling styles. See this buying guide to German Riesling for starters.

Some wines have ginger spice notes and slight sweetness, which may work particularly well accompanying a goose roasted with a classic five spice mix.

Explore Vouvray white wines (Chenin Blanc) from France’s Loire Valley, too, with the aforementioned Pinot Gris also worth considering.

As for reds, why not head to northern Italy? Ronan Sayburn MS, Co-Chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards, previously recommended Barbera d’Alba from Piedmont.

‘Goose has dark meat which is full of flavour and a fattiness that Cranberry sauce cuts through well. Barbera is light and juicy with great acidity and fleshy red berry fruit.’ 

Duck with rosé Champagne

Depending on your budget, a gastronomic rosé Champagne could add an extra splash of indulgence to festive roast duck. Beyond Champagne itself, look to traditional-method sparkling rosés, too.

A twist on the theme could be the classic French dish of ‘magrez de canard’ with blanc de noirs styles, showcasing Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier, as recommended by the Comité Champagne.

Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS, head of wine for Europe at members’ club 67 Pall Mall, told Decanter last year she would pair Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée Champagne with duck at Christmas.

Larsen-Robert said this wine would match well with roast turkey. She pairs it with duck, however, in a festive nod to her Danish roots.

Wine inspiration for roast duck and goose at Christmas

All wines featured below have been reviewed by Decanter experts and offer a range of price-points, including top UK high-street picks featured in Decanter’s Festive Wine Guide.

This article has been updated in December 2025, including with new wine recommendations.

Related articles:

Decanter festive wine guide: 230 great buys for Christmas and New Year

Wine with turkey: A food pairing guide

Best wine with lamb: great styles to try

New York born and Amsterdam bred, Ava Mees List goes by her middle name, pronounced ‘Mase’. She has worked as a sommelier at Noma in Copenhagen since 2019, becoming the restaurant’s beverage director in 2022. Starting her career as a part-time bartender at an Art Deco literary café in Amsterdam after finishing her studies in cultural anthropology, she soon decided to dedicate her professional life to learning about and travelling for wine. From 2015 to 2018, Mees worked at sister restaurants Saturne and Clown Bar in Paris before moving to Copenhagen.

My first memorable wine experience

I didn’t really get into wine (or hospitality) until I was 25. Two months after I started my first job at Café Schiller in Amsterdam, my then boss Florien took me along to a pretty raucous winemakers’ party at Cave St Martin in Roquebrun, Roussillon, France. The owner was a good friend of Marcel Lapierre [of Domaine Lapierre in Beaujolais] and the only drinks served were red wine, mulled red wine and coffee. We called it the Purple Teeth Festival and it made me fall in love with the natural wine community. Before that, my signature drink was a house tequila and bitter lemon highball – I never looked back.

My go-to everyday wines

Jacques Lassaigne, Les Vignes de Montgueux made by Emmanuel Lassaigne. I know it is ridiculous to name a Champagne as an everyday wine, but during my time in Paris, I learned to disassociate the region from celebratory events. I keep a bottle in the fridge at all times.

My favourite supermarket buy

I don’t believe in mass-produced, cheap wine, so I definitely don’t buy wine in a supermarket. If something is that cheap, somewhere in the world someone or something is paying the price. Also, support your local wine shop!

My most embarrassing moment at work

Once I told one of our guests that she looked just like this actress from one of my favourite Hollywood movies. ‘Actually, that was me,’ she said. Oops! I had no idea she was originally Danish. I kind of floated away from the table but we had a good laugh about it together later that evening.

Pet peeve

Some sommeliers tend to give extensive tasting notes, which I find kind of a turnoff – they can come across as imperative, and I prefer drinking with an open mind. For this reason, we do not do this at Noma.

My death row food and wine pairing

Yvon Métras Fleurie and dim sum.

Best food and wine match at noma

Currently, grilled artichoke hearts with a sauce of walnuts and truffle with a blueberry vinaigrette and wild-foraged greens from the beach, paired with an aged sake called Time Machine by Kinoshita Brewery on the north coast of Kyoto, served at room temperature.

My fallback quick after-work meal

I make a Greek salad pretty much every day and occasionally I will bring back an open bottle from a pairing, like a light red or a Georgian white – but, truth be told, I rarely drink at home.

Wine I’m most proud of on my list

During our time doing pop-ups in Japan (where I made an all-Japanese wine and sake pairing), we became closely connected to Beau Paysage, a Yamanashi domaine making beautiful wines. We have managed to bring them back to Copenhagen and I’m proud to serve them.

The biggest surprise on my list

We get our fair share of sceptics afraid of the 100% natural wine list – I love surprising them with wines that might be recognisable to their palate but made without being filtered or heavily sulphured. It opens their mind to the broad spectrum of natural wine.

Wines I’d order on a restaurant list

Get a Coteaux Champenois when you see it. With warmer vintages have come beautiful still wines from Champagne that go so well with food. Also, your sommelier’s eyes will likely instantly turn heart shaped when you ask them about it.

Wine region I’m most excited about

For our upcoming Los Angeles pop-up I have just spent a month travelling around California, researching a wine region I never really had any interest in. I was lucky to meet some very special people making great wine in a market flooded with overly extracted oak bombs.

Wine style I really don’t enjoy drinking

I know they’re all the rage, but aromatic skin-contact wines like Muscat are not really my jam.

Best value wine region right now

Catalonia, Spain, and the other side of the border in southwest France.

My favourite wine region to visit

Jura is like home. I love being in Arbois and having lunch at Le Bistrot des Claquets with my friend Florien Kleine Snuverink of Les Bottes Rouges (yes, the same Florien I worked with 16 years ago in Amsterdam) or sitting on the terrace of the Domaine de la Tournelle winebar/shed. Otherwise, Georgia, for all the reasons imaginable. What a place. Wow.

Related articles

• Meet the sommelier: Isa Bal MS
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• Meet the sommelier: Jill Mott

Classic red wines to pair with lamb

Here are six key grape varieties behind some of the most popular red wine styles to pair with lamb:

• Pinot Noir
• Tempranillo
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Syrah / Shiraz
• Grenache
• Sangiovese

Cabernet Sauvignon-driven red wines are commonly considered a classic match with roast lamb served medium or ‘well done’, bringing a sumptuous balance of cassis fruit, tannic structure and acidity to the table.

There’s also something alluring about a comforting lamb stew on a cold, wintry evening with a bottle of hearty red. Alternatively, young lamb served pink might take you into Pinot Noir territory.

Choosing a wine to drink with lamb

Food and wine pairing can divide the room, of course. This is a highly subjective pursuit, and even wines from well-known grape varieties and regions will vary in character according to winemakers’ decisions.

Caveats aside, it’s useful to consider the intensity and make-up of the dish.

‘Lamb has quite a delicate texture, but is also quite rich and fatty,’ said master sommelier Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS, head of wine for Europe at members’ club 67 Pall Mall.

‘As such, pairing with a wine which has nice acid structure is important. Depending on the cut of lamb, and thus how full in flavour it is, I would go for a wine which is light to medium in body.’

Wine with slow-cooked lamb shoulder

Larsen-Robert said some Pinot Noir wines at the riper end of the fruit spectrum pair well with the richness of slow-cooked lamb shoulder.

‘With a slow-cooked roast lamb shoulder, I would go for something with lots of acidity to cut through the rich sauce, but also with lots of fruit sweetness. This could be a Pinot Noir from New Zealand, for example.’

Speaking to Decanter in 2024, Larsen-Robert added: ‘I really like Felton Road Block 3 Pinot Noir, from a young vintage such as 2018 – great sweetness and fruit concentration, [and] great acidity to cut through the juicy texture and richness of the lamb.’

Decanter experts have also previously recommended Grenache blends, such as those of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a slow-roast shoulder of older lamb. If you have them in the cellar, wines with a few years of bottle age may sing alongside the meat’s gamey character.

Herbaceous notes of ‘garrigue’ on some Syrah / Shiraz or Grenache wines, from southern France to South Australia and California, may add extra depth to a dish with lots of Mediterrean herbs, like thyme, rosemary and sage, too.

Wine with a rack of lamb and lamb chops  

‘A rack of lamb is a more muscley, firmer cut, but it also has a fuller flavour because it is close to the bone,’ said Larsen-Robert.

‘Thus, I would pair with something fuller in structure and flavour, such as a Pauillac [from Bordeaux’s Left Bank].’

Individual lamb chops can offer a rich, fatty cut that is also full in flavour by virtue of being close to the bone, Larsen-Robert said.

‘I would go for a juicy wine with strong tannic structure, but that also possesses good fruit purity and freshness, such as Barolo or Barbaresco.’

‘You could also choose a more traditional style of Brunello [di Montalcino] without too much oak or extraction.’ Examples include ‘a Sesti from 2015 – a vintage showing good evolution now but which also has nice fruit concentration’.

A study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry in 2021 found that fatty molecules known as lipids, found in various foods including meat and cheese, interact with tannins to reduce the sensation of astringency on the palate.

Rioja with lamb: perfect harmony

Rioja is often lauded as a great match for lamb. This Spanish wine region is known for grilled lamb cooked over an open fire made from vine cuttings.

‘It’s extraordinarily good – the meat is young and tender and harmonises perfectly with the local Tempranillo-based wines,’ wrote food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in this Decanter article on pairing Rioja with food.

Tempranillo is also a driving force behind the great red wines of Ribera del Duero, where it’s also known as Tinto Fino.

‘Lechazo asado (suckling lamb roasted in a clay dish in a wood-fired oven) pairs well with hearty crianzas and reservas from Ribera del Duero,’ wrote Noah Chichester in his food and wine lover’s guide to the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.

Vega Sicilia and Pingus are two Spanish wine icons here, but there are plenty of other producers to watch.

Cabernet Sauvignon with roast lamb served medium to well-done

Roast lamb served medium to well-done will be richer in flavour and not quite as tender. Cabernet Sauvignon is often considered a strong choice, with many wines delivering bright fruit, tannic structure and a backbone of acidity.

In Bordeaux, Frédéric Braud, chef at Château d’Issan in Bordeaux’s Margaux appellation, previously recommended the estate’s 2010-vintage grand vin with a slow-cooked roast leg of lamb.

Some ‘second wines’ from the top-rated 2016 vintage at Médoc grand cru classé estates have entered their drinking windows, while the Cru Bourgeois classification can be a source of great-value options.

Good Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends are found across the globe. Regions to look for include:

• Hawke’s Bay – New Zealand
• California – USA
• Coonawarra & Margaret River – Australia
• Stellenbosch – South Africa
• Argentina and Chile – South America

Syrah / Shiraz wines are also good options for roast lamb. Some wines will offer a touch of pepper spice in the glass that can also work beautifully with the texture of the meat.

Decanter recently revisited the highly regarded 2015 vintage in the Northern Rhône, a Syrah heartland. Not only does the vintage deserve the hype, but many wines are ‘opening up and drinking well already,’ wrote Rhône correspondent Matt Walls.

Alternative wines to pair with lamb dishes

There are plenty of other potential pairings across the wine world, and discovering new styles is all part of the fun.

Decanter's regional editor for Italy, James Button, recently reviewed this good-value Nero di Troia red wine from Puglia. 'Mid-weight, textural and with some grippy tannins, it's a perfect match for beef or lamb,' he wrote.

Rosé wines with lamb

Some fuller-bodied rosé wines can work well with lamb dishes, depending on the ingredients accompanying the meat.

Food and wine expert Fiona Beckett explored this concept with chef Michel Roux Jr’s recipe for spiced lamb shoulder, recently featured in Decanter’s perfect pairing series.

Gastronomic rosé Champagnes are also an option for the table. ‘Pink Champagne is versatile when it comes to food pairing,’ wrote Natalie Earl, Decanter’s regional editor for France. ‘Richer styles can stand up to bigger flavours and richer foods.’

Five offbeat wine and lamb pairings to try this weekend

By Fiona Beckett | As featured in Decanter magazine April 2026 issue

• Vintage rosé Champagne or English sparkling rosé with rack of lamb, served pink
• Assyrtiko or Greco di Tufo white wine with grilled lamb marinated in garlic and herbs
• Crianza or Reserva Rioja with Rogan Josh lamb curry
• Orange wine with slow-cooked lamb with Middle Eastern spices
• Tavel rosé with grilled lamb

See the full pairing suggestions, and read more about uncommon wine and lamb combinations, in Fiona Beckett's article: Offbeat wines to pair with lamb.

Best wine with lamb: Bottles tasted by our experts

The following wines cover a range of price-points and have been tasted by Decanter’s experts.

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Spain has so many much-loved culinary traditions that it can be easy to fall into the trap of pigeonholing Spanish food and wine pairings. But, as they say, one must learn the rules like a lawyer in order to break them like an artist.

Spanish wine and food have traditionally been sentenced to the adage ‘what grows together, goes together’ – think Sherry with sardines, Rioja with pork or Ribera del Duero with lamb.

However, the wines of Spain often get overlooked when pairing with dishes outside the country’s borders. This is a shame, because they can comfortably sit at the table with cuisines from all corners of the planet.

Here, Spanish wine is going to rack up some frequent-flier miles as it goes on a journey to meet new friends and create pairing memories that will make heads turn at the taberna.

Unlikely companions: Five delicious food pairings for Spanish wine

Pairings: Jonathan Eichholz MS | Wine notes and scores: Ines Salpico

Vino de Pasto with burgers

I’ve been enamoured with vino de pasto (unfortified wine from Jerez) since I had my first sip last October. An inspiring and trailblazing group of young winemakers are bringing the spotlight back to Jerez, and its province of Cádiz.

The Palomino variety on its own brings elements of macadamia nuts, dried flat peaches and preserved lemons. These are white wines that are magic with meat. I’m a huge fan of the ‘smashburger’ craze, where burger patties are pressed, or smashed, flat on to a griddle to maximise the flavour-creating Maillard reaction.

The Maillard elements of a crispy seared patty are perfectly matched by Palomino’s nuttiness. The soft sweetness of the bun meets the dried stone fruit and citrus zip of the Andalucían coastline. Next time you’re invited to a cookout, bring a bottle from Bodega de Forlong, Willy Pérez (of Bodegas Luis Pérez) or Meridiano Perdido and watch the crowd go wild.

De la Riva, Vino de Pasto Macharnudo, Jerez, Andalucía 2021 | 96pts

Where to buy: £85 Burnett & Herbert, The Sourcing Table

Saline and vibrant, this unfortified Palomino wine spends 10 months under a layer of flor developing a soft unctuosity that’s balanced by chalky minerality in a beautiful interplay of textures. The tension between glossy ripe orchard fruit and finely etched citrus peel is more vivid on the back-palate, which is a prelude to a long and mouthwatering finish with a juicy tail of lemonade and red apple. Drink 2025-2029. Alcohol 12%.

Albariño with sushi

I am never not drinking Albariño – it’s one of those varieties that always finds its way into my wine fridge. Similarly, one of the things that is always on my dinner table on a busy weekday is a casual tray of sushi.

Here, we take the principle of ‘seaside wine with seaside food’ and dial it up a notch. The beauty is in the texture of the pairings. My go-to sushi is simple nigiri featuring an array of fish. Sushi rice is delicious – its sweetness and tang accentuate the flavours coming from the traditional lees ageing of Albariños from the Rías Baixas DO.

The ‘icing on the cake’ (or sushi) bonus here is the florality of the grape variety, which adds layers of flavour to the salinity of the fish. Lean towards the wines of Do Ferreiro, Nanclares y Prieto and Rodrigo Méndez to take your dinner to the next level.

Nanclares y Prieto, Alberto Nanclares Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia 2022 | 94pts

Where to buy: £35-£39 Furanxo, Hedonism, The Sourcing Table

Moreish and nuanced with intense yellow citrus fruits cloaked in linden, dry hay and wild flowers. Top notes of rose petals and jasmine. Elegant unctuosity on the mid-palate with the weight and richness of honeyglazed almonds and cashews filling the mouth. This nutty generosity is offset by an oyster-shell salinity. Drink 2025-2030. Alc 12%.

Rioja rosado with pasta all’amatriciana

As they say, ‘rosé all day’, but to me it’s ‘rosado all year round’, paired with everyday dishes. Pasta brings joy to life, especially when it involves the holy trinity of tomato, guanciale and Pecorino cheese.

Rosés from Spain’s iconic winemaking region lean on the power of Tempranillo and the generosity of Garnacha. While you twirl your spaghetti or put a fork in your rigatoni, the red fruit and green herbs of these varieties accentuate the brightness of tomatoes, while the tension of rosado wines cleanses the palate of the weight of cured meat and cheese.

Beronia, CVNE’s Contino and this Jabalina from Jade Gross are currently in my rosado rotation.

Jade Gross, Jabalina, Rioja 2023 | 92pts

Where to buy: £59.95 AG Wines

Expressive and bright, this shows crunchy red cherry, pomegranate and redcurrant, a twist of pink grapefruit and a herbal touch of aniseed. The playful finish dances between sweetness and sourness with a long tail of rhubarb, gooseberry and wild strawberries. Lively acidity throughout. 100% Tempranillo. Drink 2025-2027. Alc 13%.

Xarelᐧlo with palak paneer

I love it when classic grape varieties are reinterpreted into modern styles. Xarelᐧlo as a single-varietal, still white wine is quite new to Catalonia. As a variety, it beautifully balances fragrant herbs, jasmine tea and tropical fruit. Producers add weight with time on the lees and the use of oak.

Indian food is misunderstood as a wine pairing and Xarelᐧlo is here to fix that. Palak paneer is a heartwarming north Indian dish of spinach, paneer cheese and a symphony of spices. In this pairing, the green edges of Xarelᐧlo hand the microphone to the spinach, fenugreek and turmeric.

Well-made Xarelᐧlo has the weight from its lees and oak to hold its own and complement the flavours of the dish. Next time you order Indian, pop open something from Enric Soler, Cisteller or Parés Baltà.

Cisteller, Xarelᐧlo, Penedès, Catalonia 2023 | 93pts

Where to buy: £32.50 Decántalo†

An unctuous and round Xarelᐧlo, with a generous core of frangipane, cooked quince and apple pie topped with wild fennel, lemon curd and tangerine peel. Fragrant notes of hay, camomile and verbena. Weighty mid-palate, generously filled with loquat and nectarine. Veil of fennel seed and star anise with a thin honey glaze. Organic. Drink 2025-2032. Alc 12%.

Sierra de Gredos Garnacha with char siu pork

Grenache is such a misunderstood variety, most often associated with the Mediterranean sunshine that ripens it into a bombastic red-fruited glass with a kiss of garrigue spice. Spain, however, contains one of the world’s special terroirs for this variety: Sierra de Gredos.

Here, west of Madrid, Garnacha lives at 600m-1,200m elevation on granite mountains, creating a savoury, snappy and floral wine that retains remarkable brightness. One of my favourite dishes to pair here (it’s also a guilty pleasure) is char siu, a Cantonese roast pork delicacy leavened with the aromatics of five spice and laden with the depth of hoisin.

The elevation-driven Garnacha cuts through the fat of the pork but extends the dance of sultry aromatics across the palate. Some of my favourite producers are Jiménez-Landi, Marañones and Daniel Ramos (look out for the Zerberos wines).

Daniel Ramos, Zerberos Los Chorrancos El Tiemblo, Cebreros, Gredos 2019 | 94pts

Where to buy: £38.75 (2016) The Vine Whisperer

Fascinating expression of Garnacha, with chiselled, glossy tannins supporting the ripe cherry, stewed plum and red apple fruit. The alcohol is superbly (dangerously!) integrated and the wine flows seamlessly, carried by an earthy layer of petrichor, dried Parma violets and shitake mushrooms. Fragrant seam of wild oregano, basil and sage. Drink 2025-2028. Alc 15%.

Jonathan Eichholz MS is an awarded sommelier based in New York, where he runs wine education, training and consultancy company First Growth Inc.

†Ex-UK stockist: for UK consumers purchasing from outside the UK, please note that bottle prices shown include stockists’ shipping fees, duty and taxes where known at time of writing. Goods could still be subject to additional charges on delivery or T&Cs – check with the retailer concerned before purchasing.

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Restaurants, in all their totality, are a form of improbable magic. In the best of cases, they’re the antidote to real life: dimly lit rooms buoyed by the current of disparate conversations, removed from the noise of the outside world, where sensory pleasure is delivered on silver platters, glasses are never emptied, and someone else handles washing the dishes.

Needless to say, the escapist grandeur of that dining experience is the sum of many parts. Yes, at the forefront, there’s the food – but there’s also the decor, the lighting, the music, the staff, the pacing, the glassware, and of course, the wine programme.

So why, then, does the latter feel so curiously absent from restaurant reviews?

The quintessential ‘restaurant review’ carries a great deal of power. Amidst our current cast of media-fluent, keyed-in consumers, it dictates a sizeable number of dining decisions – and as such, in an extraordinarily competitive (and oversaturated) restaurant scene, reviews can indeed make or break a venue.

That said, for all the immense influence these critics wield, they seem curiously allergic to the matter of wine.

In the recent raving review of Smithereens in The New York Times, the unique (off-dry-Riesling-forward) wine programme was entirely absent save for one line – and in a similarly timed review of Le Veau D’Or, the wine director’s name was misprinted (a local legend for his curatorial acumen).

While reviewing Manuela, a LA Weekly critic mentions ordering wine, but doesn’t specify what kind.

Drinks writer Alex Delany puts the problem simply: ‘Reviewing only select parts of a restaurant is a disservice to the reader and the diner. It would be like reviewing ¾ of a movie.’

‘Excellent wine programmes are not transferable’

Listen, I’m well aware that not all diners drink – but not all diners eat red meat either, and you’d be hard pressed to find a critic who won’t order the steak. And of course, wine is not made in-house like perhaps the bread service (you can purchase the very same bottle at a variety of restaurants) – but the art of the wine list is not craftsmanship, it’s curation.

And a well-wrought wine list is no small feat. It requires cross-regional and cross-vintage knowledge, as well as consistent updating. It requires breadth and versatility to suit a number of different palates. It requires foresight – an understanding of what to cellar, what to open, what to print on the list, what to pour by the glass. It requires an eye for bottles that offer value… without egregious price tags. And most of all, it requires a keen attunement to pairings.

Excellent wine programmes are not transferable – they’re entirely tailored to the food (and the rooms) they serve.

‘Beverage programmes are often there to make food taste better… sometimes without people even realising it,’ says Yana Volfson, who’s created award-winning wine programmes across Enrique Olvera’s restaurants in NYC and Los Angeles (Cosme, Atla, Damian).

‘We’re like a secret weapon: we come in, slide a wine glass in front of you and splash you with something that makes you smile – and the next thing you know, your palate is layered and blanketed with another nuance of flavour meant to contrast or align with a bite you’ve just had, or one you’re about to have.’

Volfson is right: While beverage programmes have plenty of standalone items to offer, in the grand scheme of a restaurant ecosystem, they’re particularly impressive when they’re so well incorporated, they simply exist to elevate everything else you’re consuming (whether or not you notice). They’re supporting actors, humbly forfeiting the spotlight while bolstering the star of the show (the food).

An ‘endlessly intimidating’ industry

Of course, it’s worth mentioning that I am a wine journalist by trade. Much to the (rightful) chagrin of my dining companions, I can spend far more time than feels appropriate poring over a wine list or enquiring after the sommelier’s points of interest. This is not the case for all diners.

‘I actually don’t feel like I need to know anything about a wine list ahead of time. I’ll ask someone else to choose for me based on what I’m ordering, either way,’ a friend told me when I asked whether or not she, too, felt the lack of beverage focus in restaurant reviews.

‘I don’t need to know anything crazy in depth,’ another friend reported. ‘But I do wanna know if I should be ordering wine instead of cocktails, or if the somm is cool and interesting, or if there’s some scheme or process behind the list. I find it a little strange that somms and beverage directors are never interviewed in any of the reviews the way chefs are.’

Amidst a handful of individuals polled, the reviews were mixed – which is to say, plenty of folks did not feel slighted by a lack of beverage discourse.

Per Eric Asimov, the wine critic at The New York Times, the same general poll holds true: ‘How a critic treats a wine list depends both on the restaurant and the format of the publication… when wine is crucial to the character of a restaurant, I would like to see a few sentences in the text of the review. For a general interest audience, I don’t think you need more than that.’

And according to Volfson, beverage is not always absent – she’s been properly commended for her beverage programmes in reviews more than once in the past, noting that former critics like Sam Sifton and Frank Bruni often paid close attention to what was available to drink.

As Asimov points out, there are restaurants for which the wine or the beverage programme is indeed a far smaller consideration than the food. Their lists are afterthoughts in the grand scheme of the dining experience in question, and thus it goes without saying that their corresponding chefly pursuits deserve greater review real estate.

Then again, the opposite case is just as likely. ‘When we opened Torrisi, it received a glowing three-star review from Pete Wells,’ says Bradley Nugent, who helms wine programmes across all Major Food Group properties. ‘The amount of time and energy I put into that wine programme and our bar manager puts into that cocktail programme was insane… and it was completely glazed over.’

As he explains it, Rich Torrisi, the man responsible for the venue’s food, is enormously talented – and he deserved every bit of the praise that appeared in The New York Times. But why not make space for beverage in addition?

‘In today’s age, it feels like skilled beverage experts are few and far between. Most places don’t even have somms anymore,’ he continues. ‘But if you’re a critic and you sit down in a restaurant that’s taken the time, energy and capital to hire a somm or beverage director, shouldn’t you notice that? Shouldn’t that experience factor into your review?’

It’s also worth noting that wine is plenty gatekept.

It’s an industry that’s endlessly intimidating to enter. Rife with niche scientific knowledge, difficult pronunciations, and a rolodex of grape varieties, regions, and producers that ought to be kept in mind, it can feel utterly impenetrable.

In fact, most committed wine professionals won’t even achieve mastery, so how can we expect our restaurant critics to do so as well?

‘It takes a lot of experience to be able to read a wine list and immediately identify what makes it artful or intentional,’ Matt Ross, a wine rep for Jenny & François Selections, told me. ‘And few writers and critics are expert enough to risk having a strong take.’

It’s a hard line to walk and even among snubbed beverage directors, no one is suggesting that culinary programs get less airtime – or that they’re not deserving of all the superlative praise they receive.

It’s just that, somewhere in there, especially when the restaurant in question has funnelled determined care into its beverage programme, a little praise (or even critique!) is welcome. Sure, that might mean taking risks or admitting ignorance. It might mean seeking out food critics with intentional wine backgrounds. It might mean sending writers with wine expertise to draft distinct sections of a restaurant’s review alongside a food critic.

At bottom, reviewers are not everyday diners. They’re pseudo-celebrities with power… and I, for one, don’t find it egregious to posit that they ought to know better than the rest of us when it comes to wine and food.

We’re too late in the game to call a beverage director an ‘unsung hero’ in a formal review. It’s about time someone started singing.

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Turkey, a meat so abhorrent that here in the US, it’s only eaten under two conditions: celebrating one of our most important holidays or when you’re trying to lose weight (and yes, okay, by traditionalists at Christmas).

The only reason that so much wine is enjoyed during Thanksgiving dinner is to mask the consumption of turkey. I’ve tried every way I can think of to make it edible: fried, smoked, spatchcocked and even Peking duck style (which was the winner). But while the turkey sits at the centre of a Thanksgiving meal, the truth is, everything around it matters more. Ask your friends what their favourite dish is and it won’t be turkey.

‘I just want the sticky rice we ate next to the turkey,’ says Jon Yao, James Beard’s 2025 Best Chef in California and proprietor of Michelin one-star Kato in Los Angeles, referring to a very popular Chinese American combo.

That’s why traditional Thanksgiving wine pairings have never made sense to me. Every pairing you see is centred around turkey, but your plate is mostly filled with sides piled on top of each other. As Ki Kim of Restaurant Ki in Los Angeles, Michelin’s 2025 Best New Chef in California, put it: ‘The best bite is with a mix of everything on the plate; nothing stands on its own well.’ Even though we know this, we still cling to the same tired bottles: Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. No one has ever said, ‘What these candied yams* really need is a 16% abv Zinfandel.’

We need new recommendations for Thanksgiving drinking, ones that aren’t recycled like your grandmother’s green bean casserole* recipe. As someone whose family isn’t big on wine, I usually leave my Burgundy in the cellar, and over the years I’ve narrowed down my favourite things to reach for come Thanksgiving.

Cutting through

When your plate is drowning in starch, sugar and cream, you need something that can cut through – drinks that are fresh, bright and filled with energy. Riesling is perfect, with bright acidity and a touch of sweetness that flatters proteins, sweet potatoes and even gravy.

Master Sommelier Christopher Ramelb, previously the wine director at Senia in downtown Honolulu, told me that he pours Riesling alongside all of the Thanksgiving fixings at his Hawaiian dinner table because it stands up to the weight of the meal, whether it be Kalua pork* or turkey.

For those who want a red, Pinot Noir is your best bet. Its gentle tannins, bright acidity and red fruit make it easy to drink across the table. With more whole-cluster fermentation adding spice and lower alcohol, keeping it lively, it’s the red that can handle anything on your Thanksgiving plate.

If wine fatigue sets in, sake offers a graceful palate shift. A Junmai Daiginjo sake (generally considered the pinnacle of sake production, known for its fruitiness) has clarity and lift, with enough acidity to keep the palate refreshed without overwhelming the food – providing a calm and familiar way to approach a Thanksgiving dinner.

Not everyone at the table will be a wine drinker, so when you need something easy for the non-wine crowd, this is where canned cocktails shine. Balanced recipes poured over ice give refreshment without the burn of your uncle’s whiskey. With most below 10% alcohol, they keep the mood easy while helping you sidestep the political debates that can erupt around the stuffing.

In the end, the goal of Thanksgiving pairings isn’t to find the perfect partner for the turkey, but to complement the mash of sweet, salty and creamy that fills your plate. And try to keep in mind the wisdom of David Osenbach, wine director at three-star Michelin restaurant Providence on Melrose Ave in Hollywood: ‘The best pairing is whatever helps the dried turkey go down.’

*Food glossary for UK readers

Candied yams

A Thanksgiving staple, this classic Southern side dish features par-cooked sweet potatoes that are topped with a combination of butter, sugar and spices before being baked and then coated in a sweet sauce.

Green bean casserole

Another Thanksgiving staple, green bean casserole is a baked dish that typically consists primarily of green beans, cream of mushroom soup and French fried onions. It was popularised in the US from a recipe printed on a soup can starting in the 1950s.

Kalua pork

A dish in which a pork shoulder is slow-cooked in the oven with salt and liquid smoke, designed to mimic the traditional Hawaiian lū’au dish in which a whole pig is cooked in an imu – a type of underground oven.

Four pairings that aren’t turkeys

Riesling

Sabelli-Frisch, New Gold Dream Zabala Vineyard Riesling, Arroyo Seco, Central Coast, California, USA 2022

US$27 Sabelli-Frisch

Not your grandma’s sweet Riesling. Sharp, bone-dry, acidity to cut through the fat on the table, and the sweet richness of white peach on the palate – this will pair beautifully with all of the sides. Alcohol 13.5%

Oregon Pinot Noir

Goodfellow, Durant Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2022

US46-$58 Sec Wines, Vinopolis, Wine Solutions, Yiannis

Think blood orange, wild cherry and a touch of spice in a Pinot Noir that’s light on alcohol, high on energy and strikes a balance between New World fruit and Old World polish. Alc 12.9%

Sake

Kamoshibito Kuheiji Junmai Daiginjo Eau du Desir 2024

US$48/72cl Flatiron Wines & Spirits

A lively melon- and orchard fruit-driven sake with a clean, juicy finish that’s round and balanced. It has the body and structure of wine, which is no surprise since the producer also makes wine in Burgundy. Alc 16%

Cocktails

Livewire Cocktails Pomelo Rum Punch

US$7.50/35.5cl Livewire Cocktails

Punching in at 7.5% alcohol, this citrus-driven rum punch in a can has some cinnamon spice to run with your sweet potatoes but also plenty of zip and zest from its tropical fruit notes to keep your palate going as you tuck into your third plate of dinner. Alc 7.5%

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Seven wine styles to drink with pork:

White wine

• Riesling
• Viognier
• Chenin Blanc

Red wine

• Sangiovese (Chianti Classico)
• Mencia
• Grenache / Garnacha (red or rosé)
• Gamay (Beaujolais)

Decanter Premium is the ideal last-minute gift for wine lovers!

Is red or white wine best with pork?

Pork is quite a versatile meat that can match brilliantly with both red and white wines – not to mention orange wine – depending on what you’re cooking or eating. 

Try Riesling white wines or juicy reds with relatively high acidity to cut through the fat content of roast pork belly, or comforting Grenache-led red blends with midweek bangers and mash.

Tuscany’s Sangiovese-fuelled reds, with their balance of structure, wild berry fruit and acidity, can be delicious with a porchetta-style roast or slow-cooked pork shoulder at the dinner table. 

‘Italian reds always have that wonderful acidity that’s perfect with pork,’ wrote Decanter food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in this festive pairings piece.

Food and wine pairing principles

Food and wine pairing has been the subject of debate among wine writers. While proponents outline certain principles, personal taste is hugely important in this arena.

Even classic wine styles may vary between individual producers, but experimenting with different combinations and trying new bottles can be part of the fun.

When it comes to choosing a wine to pair with pork dishes, Jean-Baptiste Lemoine, deputy director of food and beverage at The Goring hotel in London, previously told Decanter it’s important to consider:

• the cut of the pork;
• the way it’s cooked;
• the sauce you are serving it with

Matthieu Longuère, a master sommelier and the wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school, told Decanter in 2024. ‘Whatever the meat is, it depends what you do with it.’

Think about matching the intensity of the wine with that of the dish, as well as any acidity and sweetness brought by ingredients in the meal.

Wine with pork belly and suckling pig

For tender, melt-in-the-mouth suckling pig, Lemoine advised drinking lighter styles of red. These include Spanish Mencia, Nerello Mascalese from Sicily, Pinot Noir from cooler regions or Chilean Carménère.

He also recommended Riesling with a touch of sweetness. This can be a classic with pork belly, too.

‘Roast pork belly works best with a wine that has a high level of acidity plus a touch of sweetness,’ wrote Fiona Beckett, naming 25 top food and wine pairings.

Germany is renowned for top Riesling wines, from dry styles to varying sweetness levels. Great Rieslings are also found in Alsace and the US Finger Lakes area, as well as parts of Austria, Australia, New Zealand and Canada – to name a few sources.

Flavours in the dish can help to lead your wine choice, too.

Apricots in this cider vinegar-roasted pork belly recipe ‘would lead me in the direction of Viognier rather than Riesling’, Beckett noted. 

In a Decanter ‘perfect pairing’ article for chestnut-stuffed pork fillet, she said: ‘Given the sweetness from the chestnuts, prunes and redcurrant jelly, I’d go for a wine that has a touch of sweetness itself. [For example] Alsace or New Zealand or Oregon Pinot Gris, or an old-vine Chenin Blanc.’

Wines to drink with a roast pork

‘Roast pork calls for something that combines richness with acidity, whether it’s white or red,’ Rhône expert Matt Walls previously told Decanter.

For white wine lovers, ‘Condrieu [Viognier] can be a brilliant match for pork roasted with herbs like Oregano or Marjoram,’ said Walls, who is Decanter’s Rhône correspondent and a contributing editor.

He also advised considering fresher styles of Chardonnay, as well as Chenin Blanc from either the Loire Valley or South Africa.

Tuscan reds, such as Chianti Classico or the vaunted wines produced around the hilltop town of Montalcino, can be delicious with a herby pork roast, or a porchetta-style festive dish – as previously noted. 

Walls pointed to Grenache-led wines, as well as Pinot Noir from warmer climates. Grenache is known as Garnacha in Spain, and stole the show in a Decanter panel tasting of red wines from Aragón last year.

Wine to drink with pork sausages

Walls returned to the Grenache theme when considering a wine for pork sausages. ‘For a classic bangers and mash, I tend to reach for a young Grenache-based wine like a southern Rhône.’

Classic blends of Grenache, Syrah (Shiraz) and Mourvèdre – and variations on the theme – are produced in many regions, from the Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon in France to parts of South Australia and California.  

In a similar vein, the Carignan from Languedoc-Roussillon featured in the list below promises to enhance comforting bangers and mash on an autumnal evening, wrote Decanter’s David Williams in his recent review.

Other options include Gamay-based Beaujolais Cru, which can also make a great wine match for traditional Christmas ham. 

Don’t ignore rosé wines or orange wines at the dinner table, either.

Dry rosé wines could be a good bet for BBQ pork, whether pulled or cooked as a chop, said Lemoine. However, the meat might overpower some of the more delicate styles.

Decanter’s Williams recently recommended this budget-friendly, off-dry orange wine led by Grüner Veltliner. ‘A cushion of sweetness makes this a great match for spicy pork dishes,’ he wrote.

Watch out for too much oak in some wines

Beware of wines with prominent oak flavours when it comes to some pork dishes. 

Oak in wine can be tricky with sweet and sour pork, for example, said Longuère at Le Cordon Bleu London. 

‘The oak is quite bitter, quite smoky. If you have something sweet, it tends to make it taste quite metallic. And if you have something quite high in acidity, it clashes.’

Great wine with pork: Inspiration from our experts

The following wines have all been tasted by Decanter’s experts and include bottles at a range of prices.

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See more food and wine pairing ideas

Seven industry insiders, including sommeliers, winery owners and writers, have shared favourite Italian food and wine pairings for the Italy supplement accompanying Decanter magazine’s October 2025 issue.

Read about their memorable matches, and why these combinations worked so well.

Our insiders’ favourite Italian food and wine pairings

Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga | Owner, Tenuta San Leonardo, Trentino

‘One of my most treasured food and wine pairing memories involves a bottle of San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2011 (£40.70/37.5cl Honest Grapes), shared during a simple evening with close friends.

‘We had prepared a classic homemade parmigiana di melanzane, rich with layers of fried aubergine, tomato sauce, Trentin Grana – our local substitute for Parmesan – and fresh basil: simple, soulful, deeply satisfying.

‘The 2011 vintage was in a beautiful stage of evolution, showing remarkable finesse and balance. With notes of ripe red fruit, Mediterranean herbs, sweet tobacco and a gentle balsamic nuance, it offered silky tannins and vibrant freshness that paired perfectly with the richness of the dish.

‘The wine wrapped around the flavours of the parmigiana with elegance, enhancing it without overpowering it. It was a simple meal, but the harmony between the wine and food, and the joy shared around the table, made it unforgettable!’

Antonio Rallo | CEO, Donnafugata Sicily

‘From the Donnafugata range, I’d choose the Sul Vulcano white and red, because they’re vibrant expressions of Etna’s volcanic soul and both versatile enough to pair with global cuisines.

As a frequent traveller, I love reconnecting with Sicily through a glass of wine. Among the best pairings I can call to mind, with its crisp acidity and minerality, Sul Vulcano Bianco (2022, £31-£35 Shelved Wine, The Fine Wine Co, Valvona & Crolla) pairs beautifully with scallop ceviche or vegetable tempura.

Elegant and spicy Sul Vulcano Rosso (2021, £32.20-£36.50 Hattersley Wines, Shelved Wine, Valvona & Crolla) complements bolder dishes such as carnitas tacos, Korean bibimbap or gochujang wings.’

Freddie Johnson | Head sommelier, The Ledbury, London (Notting Hill)

‘Mine is quite simple and classical in many ways, but I think the match is perfect. I love Carlo Ferrini’s wines, and I think his Podere Giodo project in Brunello has been underrated for years.

‘A match we’ve had great success with recently is the Carricante white from his Etna project Alberelli di Giodo (2022, in bond £32.50- £36.17 Cru, Farr Vintners) in Sicily. The wine shows incredible verticality, drive, concentration and tension. I love pairing these salty, smoky volcanic whites with crab, matching that marine sweetness.

‘There’s an almost almond cream complexity and weight on the palate that helps the wine with fatty elements, too. Earlier this year, as our first course at The Ledbury, we paired it successfully with white crab, sea herbs and a roasted crab cream with smoked pike roe and sakemarinated trout roe.’

Maria Boumpa | Head sommelier, Da Terra, east London

‘One of my most memorable Italian pairings was during a recent visit to Bolgheri: the Gaja, Ca’ Marcanda Promis 2016 (US$50-$54 Blanchards, Total Wine & More), a Toscana blend of Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese, paired with paccheri with octopus ragù.

‘The wine’s freshness and savoury depth echoed the Mediterranean character of the dish, while its supple tannins and notes of plum, herbs and spice embraced the sweet richness of the octopus. The wine was slightly chilled to complement the summer warmth and the pasta was cooked al dente to match the wine’s structure.

‘It was an elegant yet comforting combination, definitely an unexpected one for me, that perfectly captured the spirit of Tuscany’s coast – and what a great memory to have shared it with Gaia Gaja herself [fifth-generation co-owner and manager of Gaia winery].’

Marc Millon | Author

‘It’s May on the Adriatic coast, before the huge crowds descend for the summer. I’m at Portonovo, a small bay near Ancona’s “elbow”, the spit that forms a natural protected harbour. Nestled by the sea with mighty Monte Conero – a 572m limestone promontory marking the highest point along the coast – rising behind, Portonovo is where the people of Le Marche’s capital gather on fine days.

‘One reason to come here is to visit Ristorante Emilia to enjoy the famous moscioli of Portonovo – wild mussels picked by scuba divers, steamed in wine, chopped and added to a light tomato sauce served over perfectly al dente spaghetti.

‘Like the best Italian regional dishes, spaghetti coi moscioli is supremely simple, supremely exquisite, paired always with wine from the local hills, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.

I like Umani Ronchi’s Villa Bianchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (2024, £12.50-£15.99 Hard to Find Wines, JN Wine, Strictly Wine): medium-bodied, vibrant, with enough taste and texture to stand up to the robust flavour of the wild mussels.’

Marc Millon is author of the awarded Italy in a Wine Glass: The Taste of History, published by Hurst & Co in the UK (£20, April 2024) and Melville House in the US ($30, May 2024).

Luma Monteiro | Head of marketing, Davy’s Wine Merchants

‘There is something very special about the Italian way of matching wine and food. I enjoy trying new things, but the classics are usually unbeatable. I recently returned to Florence, and there’s nothing quite like eating pasta with ragù with a glass of Chianti Classico.

‘If you can find a Gran Selezione, even better, but honestly, just order a carafe of Chianti Classico in a good Italian restaurant and you’ll be fine – they know what they’re doing.

‘The high acidity of Sangiovese with the natural sweetness of tomato sauce is like a hug in food form. I do love the Marchesi Antinori, Chianti Classico Riserva (2022, £42-£48 Fareham Wine Cellar, Laithwaites, Salusbury Winestore, Valvona & Crolla).

Known to some as “baby Tignanello”, thanks to the grapes being sourced from the same estate, it’s a great price yet also a lovely, juicy, serious Chianti Classico.’

Nelson Pari | Italian wine buyer at merchant Swig & Co-founder, Verticale magazine

‘In 2017, I went to my first Michelin-star dinner at Magnolia in Cesenatico*. Chef Alberto Faccani’s signature dish, Cappetelli, is a unique mix of two local pastas. It’s essentially a cappelletto – a Romagna spin on tortellini – filled with passatelli, a pasta usually eaten in broth on Sundays after church.

‘Andrea Fiorini, one of Italy’s most skilled sommeliers, paired it with an Albana di Romagna – a local white by Paolo Francesconi called Arcaica, made with 60 days of skin maceration.

‘What I found fascinating about the pairing, beyond its technical perfection, was how a modern dish from our region could so well respect a wine that had undergone the same level of research and experimentation. As our palates and trends evolve, it’s amazing how closely the worlds of wine and food move together.’

[*In 2022, Magnolia was relocated to the 18-century Relais Villa Margherita in Longiano, 20km inland from coastal Cesenatico]

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A complex white Burgundy, majestic Rioja Gran Reserva or silky, bright Pinot Noir wine from one of several key growing regions can all be fantastic choices to drink with turkey.

Classic styles when pairing wine with turkey include:

• Full-bodied Chardonnay, such as those from Burgundy or California
• Pinot Noir
• Mature Bordeaux, Rioja or Barolo
• Beaujolais (Gamay)

Decanter Premium: The perfect gift for a special wine lover

Basics: what kind of wine goes with turkey?

Turkey is not a very powerful meat and its relatively low fat content means it can dry out quickly during cooking. 

Great wine matches with turkey include relatively full-bodied white wines or medium-bodied reds with low-to-medium tannin levels and high acidity. 

Turkey’s lack of fat means there is little to dampen down prominent, mouth-coating tannins associated with some younger, bolder red wines.

Bold tannins could eclipse all that hard work in the kitchen. Yet tannins generally soften over time, which is why a few years of bottle age can change the picture.

That said, ‘classic’ styles can vary in the glass according to winemaking decisions and vintage conditions.

Food and wine pairing is also highly subjective. Personal taste is always important, as expert Fiona Beckett recently wrote in defence of the concept.

Search all Decanter wine reviews

Pairing wine with turkey: a visual guide

Click on the turkey and wine pairing graphic below to see a full-size version.

Pairing wine with turkey at Christmas

Roast turkey for Christmas or Thanksgiving tends to arrive with an entourage that demands attention. 

‘As turkey has quite a subtle taste and a soft texture, the style of the wine will depend essentially on what accompanies the fowl at Christmas,’ said master sommelier Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school.

‘The classic trimmings that tend to be eaten alongside turkey for Christmas lunch are: a mountain of roasted potatoes, stuffing, carrots, parsnips, pigs in blankets, red cabbage, Brussel sprouts, cranberry sauce, and an ocean of gravy,’ said Longuère.

‘This variety means that your choice of wine needs to be a good all-rounder. It should not be too tannic or it will clash with the sweetness of the cranberry sauce and root vegetables, and the sweet and sourness of the cabbage. 

‘Also, it cannot not be too heavy or too full-bodied, as it will overwhelm the soft turkey meat,’ he said, speaking to Decanter in 2024.

Acidity can help to refresh your palate as you wade through the array of dishes on the table.

Is red or white wine better for a turkey dinner?

An expert Decanter panel named white Burgundy as the best pairing with turkey back in 2011.

This beat Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Bordeaux blends, Pinot Noir and Californian Zinfandel in a tasting.

Longuère said it should be possible to find a wine in every colour that fits the bill, however. That’s good news if one of your fellow diners only drinks rosé, or white, red or orange. 

Red wine with turkey

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir often delivers wines of bright red fruit and refreshing acidity, albeit with varying levels of structure, and can be a great red wine choice for turkey. 

It’s still possible to find ‘value’ options in Burgundy, if you know where to look.

That said, premier or grand cru wines from top producers would likely deliver a memorable experience for anyone with access to them.

Decanter’s Burgundy correspondent, Charles Curtis MW, recently reviewed several Richebourg Grand Cru wines from Domaine Anne Gros.

Longuère recommended a good, five-year-old Pinot from Burgundy, Germany or also the UK, as well as from regions outside Europe.

Delicious Pinot Noir wines can be found across the world, from Mornington Peninsula in Australia and Central Otago in New Zealand to Oregon’s Willamette Valley in the US and Walker Bay in South Africa.

Some styles may be too lightweight. Decanter’s 2011 panel found a Volnay wine from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune was ‘overwhelmed by the food.’ 

Younger reds can work, too. Longuère said ‘New World’ styles tend to be more approachable in youth, but also that decanting can help to ‘soften up’ younger wines in general.

Cru Beaujolais, produced from Gamay, is another fitting option, said Longuère. He advised looking towards lighter crus like Fleurie or Brouilly.

One feature of cooking turkey during the festive season is that the meat can last beyond the big day.

For cold roast turkey leftovers, food and wine pairing expert Fiona Beckett previously advised looking towards ‘a riper, more robustly fruity Pinot Noir from, say, California, Oregon or New Zealand’.

Mature red wines with turkey

Many wines built for long-term ageing have prominent tannins when young, although the character of these tannins can vary.

Nebbiolo (Barolo) and Cabernet Sauvignon are two grape varieties able to produce highly prized, long-lived wines that are generally high in tannin and acidity.

Tannins soften over time in the best bottlings, integrating into layer-upon-layer of delicious primary fruit and ‘tertiary’ flavours to offer a real treat at the table.

Longuère said: ‘If one is going for it, [I’d suggest] a 20-year-old Haut-Médoc or Barolo when they become really complex, with aromas of tobacco, autumn leaf and sweet oak, and feel like pure silk on the palate.’

Bordeaux’s brilliant 2005 vintage turned 20 years old in 2025, but don’t write off years that didn’t make quite so many headlines.

Charles Curtis MW recently explored the the charm of Bordeaux’s undervalued class of 2006.

Some vintages and wines evolve quicker than others, of course.

Bordeaux 2014 is a good place to look for relative value and wines offering drinking pleasure now. Several top names from the well-regarded 2015 vintage are also showing well in the glass a decade on from harvest.

Rioja with roast turkey: ‘a slam-dunk match’

Longuère also suggested Rioja Gran Reserva wines at least 10 years old as a potentially great match for turkey.

These wines are released with some bottle age and are often relatively good value in the fine wine world, he noted.

Wine writer Olly Smith is also a fan. ‘Turkey with all the trimmings and a high-end Rioja Gran Reserva is a slam-dunk wine match for Christmas day,’ he previously wrote for Decanter.

Read our Rioja wine buying guide

White wine with turkey

‘Barrel-fermented or barrel-matured white wine more than five years old would be ideal,’ said Longuère. 

He said examples include: ‘New World Chardonnay or Burgundy from Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet, White Rioja Reserva or Gran Reserva, Sémillon-based white Pessac-Léognan in Bordeaux, [or] Chenin Blanc-based blends from South Africa.’

Chardonnay

A relatively full-bodied Chardonnay can be an enchanting accompaniment to your turkey, especially with traditional sides like bread sauce. 

Well-judged oak can bring some sweet spice notes, while creamy lactic acid may add depth alongside fruit flavours ranging from lemon and honey to ripe pear and quince. 

A backbone of acidity brings balance to the richness and should carve a path through all of those trimmings.

Good Chardonnays are often found in similar geographical areas to good Pinot Noir.

For those with the means and looking for something extra special, Decanter Burgundy correspondent Charles Curtis MW recently revisited the 2014 vintage in the grands crus of Chassagne- and Puligny-Montrachet.

Rosé and orange wines with turkey

Rosé needn’t just be for summer sipping. Longuère said fuller-bodied, more complex styles of rosé wines can be a hit with turkey at Christmas. 

Decanter’s Champagne correspondent, Tom Hewson, also wrote: ‘The [Christmas] main meal is tailor-made for Champagne’s deep and dark rosé de saignée.’ 

Many orange wines can be a great dining partner, wrote Ines Salpico, Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America.

‘They usually have a herbal, savoury edge that brings a meal’s flavours to life, supported by gentle tannins and firm acidity.’

Search all Decanter wine reviews

This article has been updated in October 2025, including with new wine recommendations from Decanter experts.

Tasting notes: Wine with turkey inspiration

Examples of wines reviewed by Decanter experts at a range of different prices.

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The global rise of hallyu – Korea’s cultural wave – has enabled Korean cuisine to step confidently into the spotlight. Following the success of K-pop and K-drama, Korean restaurants are popping up in cities across the world, introducing diners to bold flavours and textures far beyond the now-ubiquitous kimchi.

‘Serendipitously… [this] has coincided somewhat with the huge surge in popularity of “natural” wines,’ says Duncan Robertson, chef-co owner of Korean restaurants Dongnae and Bokman in Bristol. ‘They are perfect bedfellows – the flavours of Korean food being so often formed by indigenous yeasts and wild fermentation.’

For Robertson, everyone ought to know about the beloved ritual of pairing samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) with refreshing shots of soju, but with high-quality versions of the spirit and other traditional Korean beverages hard to find in the diaspora, wine – and especially natural wine – has become ‘the obvious choice’, he says, over ‘second-rate soju’.

Don’t miss the ultimate wine experience – book your tickets now for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025

Pairing potential

Sommeliers previously working in modern European settings have had to adapt. Daniel Jeffs, general manager at modern Korean east London restaurant Calong, found pairing with sesame challenging, for instance. ‘It often overpowers subtle white wines and can create bitter flavours,’ he explains. But once past the initial learning curve, he found the best pairings came naturally: bright, aromatic whites for fish- and vegetable-led dishes, and chilled, fragrant reds for meat and poultry.

At Somssi in Mayfair, a Korean fine dining venue at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, led by chef Jihun Kim, sommelier Andres Ituarte starts by asking whether a dish leans towards spicy, sweet, umami or fermented flavours. Spicy dishes are the easiest, with a rich, fruity white such as Viognier, a savoury old-vine Assyrtiko or a restrained New World Syrah softening the heat. For sweeter meat dishes such as bulgogi, he recommends earthy reds with a bit of grip, like Burgundy, Nebbiolo or Rhône blends. For eonyang bulgogi (barbecued beef) wrapped in a shiso leaf with ssamjang (a thick, spicy dipping sauce), you want something juicy, like Bodegas Albamar’s Capitán Xurelo (2022, £30-£31 Cave Bristol, Cork & Cask); Rebecca Lewis, general manager at Dongnae, calls this Galician red blend of native Spanish varieties a ‘magical bottle’ that enhances everything.

Zing is the thing

For umami-led dishes or fermented foods, vibrant wines with good acidity – such as dry Riesling or Barbera – keep things fresh, while Sherries, skin-contact wines and Ituarte’s personal favourite, oxidative Jura whites, stand up beautifully. ‘The richness and nutty character cuts like a knife through the big flavours of kimchi or jangajji [pickled vegetables],’ Ituarte explains. Skin-contact wine, others agree, is a good all-rounder. ‘Some of the less familiar flavour profiles found in skin-contact wines work well with some of the bolder flavours in Korean cooking,’ says Jeffs, citing dishes such as Calong’s take on the classic pajeon (spring onion pancake) and the spicy seafood noodle soup jjamppong.

At Dongnae, Lewis likes to pair vibrant orange wines with dishes such as the lobster naengchae, a summery native lobster and peach salad with a creamy pine nut dressing.

As Korean food grows in popularity, high-quality Korean spirits and rice wines may come into the mix. In California’s modern Korean restaurants, artisanal makgeoli (a creamy, slightly spritzy rice wine), cheongju (a clear, refined rice wine often compared to sake) and soju already feature on drinks programs, such as at Baroo in Los Angeles, where guests can choose from a wine or Korean sool (alcohol) pairing, including Korean drinks produced in the Golden State.

Jeffs notes how, at Calong, they have already begun tasting artisanal soju and are keen to feature it on their list in the future. But for now, he’s learning – like others – of the joys of pairing Korean food with more familiar tipples. As he explains: ‘One of our snacks from our opening menu, kimchi fritters, is great alongside a glass of crémant or, sometimes, just a nice lager.’

Star pairings to go with Korean food

Korean fried chicken with Champagne

Crisp bubbles cut through the rich, spicy glaze and crunchy textures, amplifying flavour while refreshing the palate. For the ultimate pairing, opt for a fruit-forward blanc de noirs, which brings enough ripeness to match the glaze.

Bulgogi with Nebbiolo

Most Korean meat dishes work well with earthy, light- to medium-bodied reds. For bulgogi, the dish’s sweet, smoky richness finds synergy in Nebbiolo’s bright acidity, forest floor depth and spicy tannins – particularly if it has some age.

Kimchi pancake with Sherry

Oxidative wines are a safe bet with the deep gamchilmat (the Korean word for umami) of many dishes. For kimchijeon (kimchi pancake), fino and amontillado Sherries have enough depth to deal with the tang of classic cabbage kimchi, and enough acidity to offset the fried pancake. Oxidative Jura white or Vin Jaune would also do the trick.

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Given how fashionable Marrakech has become as a travel destination, it came as a bit of a shock on a recent visit to discover how few restaurants serve alcohol. (Rather like being in the dry counties of bourbon-producing Kentucky.)

Of course, Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country and alcohol is proscribed by the Koran, but the attitude towards alcohol varies, somewhat unpredictably, from place to place – even within the same city. Although you might not find restaurants serving alcohol in the medina (old quarter) in Marrakech due to the proximity of nearby mosques, typically you will in more fashionable, westernised neighbourhoods such as Gueliz and Hivernage.

And of course Morocco also has a thriving wine industry, the second largest in Africa: a legacy of the French protectorate. Although grape growing dates back to Phoenician times, it was the French who had the greatest influence, resulting in widespread plantings of varieties that are popular in southern France such as Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. Red and rosé are still much more widely consumed than white wine.

Many a match

Moroccan food is easy to pair with wine, although that wasn’t a view shared by the late Robert Mondavi, who was quoted by Paula Wolfert in her seminal book The Food of Morocco (Bloomsbury, 2012) as saying – ‘unenthusiastically’ – that ‘the best type of wine to drink is a good Californian Pinot Noir or a Burgundy’. Personally, I think Morocco’s own varieties fare better. ‘With grilled meats or merguez, fruity reds like a Rioja or a southern French Syrah work beautifully,’ says Nargisse Benkabbou, author of Casablanca: My Moroccan Food (Mitchell Beazley, 2018).

Traditional Moroccan meals start off, as many North African and Middle Eastern meals do, with a selection of salads and small pastries, followed by a tagine or grilled meats. (Couscous, which is similar flavour-wise to tagine, is traditionally only served on Fridays.) The spicing – mostly coriander, cumin, ginger and turmeric – is generally gentle, subtle and not particularly hot, but this varies from dish to dish. A chicken tagine with preserved lemon is generally better with a dry white wine or rosé, while richer, meatier lamb tagines with figs or prunes pair better with a rich, oak-aged red or an orange wine, the latter currently not widely produced in Morocco but easily available from elsewhere.

As in other countries, there are also different levels of cuisine, from rustic dishes to high-end fare of the type you would find in luxury hotels or restaurants such as L’Mida in Marrakech, which weaves Moroccan flavours into international dishes such as ceviche and poke. With those you could happily pair fruity New World whites made from grapes such as Semillon.

Shades of flavour

There are also regional differences. The food in coastal towns such as Casablanca and Essaouira leans more heavily on fish – generally paired with Morocco’s ubiquitous gris de gris, which used to be a uniquely pale style of rosé before Provençal rosé (which would also work) gained in prominence to make that shade the norm.

‘In Essaouira, they are what pairs best with our fish dishes,’ says Mounia Ezzaher, whose family owns the luxurious Villa Maroc. ‘I love the Aït Souala Gris, which is based on Grenache and Cinsault, with our citrus fruit sea bream.’

Finally, it’s worth thinking of wine in the context of Morocco’s honey-drenched pastries and sweet couscous. Appropriately, Moscatel from just across the water in once Moorish Spain works perfectly.

Five Moroccan food star pairings

Moroccan salads with vin gris

Such an important part of a Moroccan meal and this whisper- pale rosé works perfectly – it’s a popular style in Morocco itself.

Chicken & preserved lemon tagine with Aligoté

A recently discovered pairing – the Aligoté’s acidity works brilliantly with the fragrant, slightly musky flavour of the preserved lemon and the salinity of the olives.

Lamb & aubergine tagine with Syrah

A tried and tested combination from Bianca Ford of Yapp Bros, importer of Alain Graillot & Thalvin’s Tandem Syrah du Maroc (2022, £21 Yapp Bros). Classic, but sometimes classic is unbeatable.

Mrouzia with Primitivo

An exotically dark, sticky style of tagine that works well with southern Italian reds with a touch of sweetness.

Pigeon pastilla (or bastila) with Sauternes

Although savoury, the pastry is sprinkled with icing sugar and cinnamon. Chateau Musar would be rather good, but for an even greater wow factor serve a Sauternes that has a few years of bottle age.

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In an era of diet-related health concerns, heightened awareness of cruel or unsustainable farming methods and a demand for more inclusivity and representation in every industry, there is a case to be made that plant-based tastes should be reflected more widely in the world of fine wine.

Getting outside the box

Fear of the unknown, techniques drilled in cooking school and confusion over what vegan food actually is, have deterred chefs from becoming ‘culinary explorers’, says Miyoko Schinner, a Marin County, California-based award-winning vegan chef, cookbook author and entrepreneur who founded global vegan cheese brand, Miyoko’s Creamery.

‘If people can just get out of that box where there’s got to be some kind of meat, you really are opening yourself up to so many new possibilities.’

Schinner regularly hosts winemaker dinners, tastings and cooking classes that highlight these possibilities. Such events have featured courses such as roasted vegetable timbale with tomato confit, paired with Merlot; zucchini carpaccio with raspberry ume sauce, paired with Sauvignon Blanc and honeynut squash and spinach ‘ricotta’ soufflé, paired with Chardonnay.

The approach has attracted attention from the highest echelons of the food world.

Schinner recalls a conversation with fellow Bay Area chef Dominique Crenn, of the three Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier Crenn, who has gradually reduced the use of animal products in her restaurants over the years.

‘She is finding that as she explores plants, she’s thinking about food in a way that she never did before and she’s getting excited because she’s discovering all these things she can do. So it’s a point of growth for her, and a point of growth for any chef, rather than simply trying to figure out how to cook chicken 10 different ways,’ Schinner says.

Challenging conventions

Drew Brady, wine director for Overthrow Hospitality, the plant-based restaurant group in New York City he co-founded with James Beard-nominated restaurateur Ravi Derossi, says there’s ‘a blind spot’ with conventional food and wine pairings. Many restaurants, chefs and wine-centric experiences, he says, ‘haven’t been challenged to think another way yet’.

This has to do with ‘what we think luxury is and how it equates to prestige. These kinds of foods that you typically see in pairings, foie gras and triple-aged-this-and-that, they’re just shorthand for indulgence,’ Brady says. ‘Especially for those that position themselves in the fine wine space, I think it’s muscle memory.’

Three of Overthrow’s eight brands have earned Michelin nods for their elevated plant-based cuisine, beautiful interiors, service and tightly-curated wine selections that skew light and low-intervention. The group’s mission, Brady says, is based on animal rights, concern for the environment, and redefining famously toxic restaurant culture, with interesting parallels to the mistreatment of farm animals, such as the force-feeding of geese for foie gras, for example.

‘I have worked for abusive management since the day I started working. I had no idea that it wasn’t supposed to be that way. The way you allow yourself to be spoken to, and watch others be spoken to and treated, is quite astonishing. I think plant-based cuisine is compassionate. We’re creating a space where guests and employees feel appreciated and celebrated. I think what we’re serving and how we’re serving it aligns with that quite well.’

Being bold with flavours and textures

Alex Price, head of wine at Michelin-starred, vegetable-focused Plates London, says somms don’t make the effort to pair vegan fare with wine because ‘perhaps sommeliers naturally default to the typical frameworks of salt, fat, acid and protein when it comes to pairing, and may view plant-based dishes as “lacking” the typical anchors needed for traditional pairings.

‘However, it’s exactly this challenge that makes pairing plant-based food so exciting, as it forces us to approach flavour, structure and balance very differently,’ Price says, offering an example – one of her favourite pairings at the restaurant.

‘The dish features hay-smoked maitake mushroom, barbecued over Japanese coals and served on a base of black bean mole. It’s topped with spicy kimchi and aioli and finished with puffed rice for texture. This is paired with an English orange wine. The wine’s boldness mirrors the intensity of the dish, standing up to the umami-rich mole and the earthy depth of the maitake. Bringing harmony and cohesion to a dish full of bold, layered flavours.’

A plant-based future

As the wine industry struggles to attract and retain consumers in an inflation-riddled economy and a culture redefining its relationship with alcohol, offering plant-based options can invite a new, more diverse or health-conscious cohort to discover and delight in wine, says Schinner.

‘People are interested in health, and plant-based options are more interesting than a piece of meat surrounded by celeriac purée,’ she adds. ‘You can do so many more wine pairings. It just makes it far more exciting.’

Brady says vegetable-based cooking offers opportunities for discovery that hook guests and keep them coming back.

‘The amount of times we have had those conversations tableside – “You’re telling me there’s no animal products in this dish at all?” – that’s what that is. You establish a personal connection and you’ve eliminated the stigma in one moment for plant-based or vegan dining right then and there.

‘We want to create restaurants,’ Brady says, ‘for people to come to us not because of what’s missing, but what’s possible.’

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The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily is blessed with one of the most diversified culinary traditions in the world, drawing its roots not only in the rich biodiversity of its fertile land but also in the myriad different cultural influences linked to Ancient Greek, Roman, Arab-Norman and Spanish rule over the centuries.

Sicily is where pasta as we know it was born, according to most historians: the Arab rulers in the Middle Ages started drying thin strips made with flour, water and salt that would then evolve into spaghetti. It also boasts one of Italy’s most important fishing traditions, as testified by the many tonnare (former tuna processing facilities, sometimes transformed into museums or event locations) scattered across its 1,637km-long coastline.

Still to this day, the city of Mazara del Vallo on the island’s west coast houses Italy’s largest fishing fleet, supplying the entire country with fresh seafood. Agricultural products abound too: from capers grown on the volcanic soils of the islands of Salina and Pantelleria, to pistachios from the town of Bronte on Etna – Sicilian cooks have a plethora of ingredients to choose from.

This incredible diversity extends to wine production, with the region’s wine-growing areas offering almost any style you could think of.

Explore the excellence of one of Italy’s most iconic wine producers – book your place at the Antinori Masterclass at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025

Start on the streets

The Sicilian culinary feast begins on the streets. When in Palermo, grabbing a pane e panelle (bread with fried chickpea croquettes) or some pani câ meusa (bread with veal spleen) from market stands is highly recommended.

Arancini (fried rice balls filled with different ingredients) are popular in cafeterias all over the island, while regional variants of pizza like sfincione palermitano (thick, and topped with anchovies and caciocavallo cheese) and scaccia ragusana (stuffed with various ingredients, including vegetables and meat) belong to specific towns.

All these recipes are flavourful and fat-rich: while beer is the most obvious pairing, they also work well with a glass of palate-cleansing, layered, creamy sparkling wine – ideally, of course, from high-altitude vineyards in Sicily.

From the Mediterranean Sea

Even though the seafood offering of most Sicilian restaurants is based upon the catch of the day, the iconic Mazara del Vallo red prawns are almost ubiquitous in higher-end establishments, and enjoy great success outside the region too. They are usually served raw or slightly marinated in citrus, and the lifted aromatics of a dry Zibibbo enhance their flavours.

Red tuna and swordfish require a slightly fuller wine to accompany their richer flesh: the latter makes an especially good pairing with a medium-bodied, unoaked Nero d’Avola with light tannins and loads of succulent fruit, especially when cooked in the Aeolian style (with capers, cherry tomatoes and olives).

In Western Sicily, the Arab influence is evident in popular dishes such as couscous alla trapanese (with shellfish, various fishes, almonds, garlic, saffron and sometimes herbs), which requires a softer and bolder white wine; try a slightly oaked Grillo to tame the tangy flavours.

The flintiness, spiciness and refreshing acidity of Catarratto, instead, complement creamier and oilier seafood pasta like busiate (twisted Trapani dry pasta) with pistachios and shrimps, or spaghetti with sardines, wild fennel and fried breadcrumbs.

A bounty of aubergines

Different southern Italian regions claim the invention of parmigiana di melanzane (aubergine parmigiana), yet Sicily is where you’ll find some of the most flavourful versions thanks to the island’s hard-to-beat local aubergines.

Tomato sauce and aubergines also appear in caponata (assorted fried vegetables with celery, onions and a sweet and sour sauce) and pasta alla norma, the region’s most iconic pasta dish, featuring a generous shaving of salted ricotta cheese on top.

All of these recipes are well complemented by a fruit-forward, mid-weight red with crisp acids and gentle tannins, such as Frappato.

Meat-based dishes

The eastern portion of the island offers the greatest variety of options for carnivores: Nero dei Nebrodi ham from the namesake free-range pork breed, raised in a mountainous area close to Etna, shares a melt-in-your mouth consistency with Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, but with a slightly less oxidative flavour. It may be the best pairing with a lively and elegant Etna Rosso.

A richer and more tannic red like Perricone from western Sicily matches involtini alla messinese (fried veal rolls with Provolone cheese, parsley and garlic), horse meat chops (typical of Catania) or a Nero dei Nebrodi pork fillet.

Last but not least

Any culinary experience in Sicily would be incomplete without a taste of the iconic regional desserts accompanied by one of the renowned Passito wines, mostly made with grapes dried under the Mediterranean sun.

For those preferring lighter styles with moderate residual sugar, Malvasia delle Lipari Passito, produced in the Lipari archipelago, is the best choice, making an ideal match to cassatelle (fried ravioli filled with sheep ricotta) and the traditional cannoli (tube-shaped fried pastry filled with ricotta cheese and candied fruit), especially if coming from the outskirts of Palermo, where the emphasis is usually on the creaminess and light acidity of the ricotta instead of just sweetness.

Most other Sicilian desserts, including almond paste sweets and cassata (sponge cake), work best with Passito di Pantelleria, a decadently sweet dessert wine from the namesake island in the Sicilian channel. Although a glass may sometimes feel like a dessert on its own, the best versions are savoury and bright enough to cleanse the palate and round up a delightful meal without causing fatigue.

Raffaele’s picks for Sicilian wine and food pairing:

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For more than two centuries London has been the epicentre of the global wine trade and there has never been a better time to dive headfirst into the literally thousands of great eateries and wine lists our capital has to offer.

Friday

Breakfast

It would be churlish not to start your weekend of extravagance with the most iconic breakfast in London, which is generally accepted to be The Wolseley on Piccadilly. You are, of course, entitled to order the full English, but personally I would suggest keeping with the theme and ordering the devilled kidneys or the kedgeree, both staples of a bygone era, perfectly washed down with a Bloody Mary or two.

Lunch

For lunch, after those glorious kidneys, you may wish to be flexible in how much you eat so, a short walk down the road and into Soho is all that’s required to find Mountain on Beak Street, the Mallorcan-inspired restaurant by Tomos Parry, currently ranked No 74 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 51-100 list.

My advice here is to take a walk-in (although reservations are possible) and sit at the counter where you can have anything from a few small plates (especially as a lone diner) to a full-blown feast. Unlike at its sister restaurant Brat, the whole turbot is not always available here, but all the fish is equally as good. My personal recommendation would be for the baked rice, a bowl of tripe and to let the sommelier team guide you into something esoteric from the Iberian Peninsula. Not your thing? Don’t knock it ‘til you try it!

Dinner

Friday night is the perfect time to head for something distinctly non-British which we do so well in this multicultural city. If Chinese is your thing, the two-Michelin star A Wong in Pimlico, and Hunan, just around the corner, offer distinctly different options. The former being focussed on fine dining, dishes from the emperor’s banquet reimagined for the modern day, while the latter is a ‘no menu’ free flowing small plate extravaganza with one of the very finest wine lists in the city. Owner Michael Peng has a handwritten list of gems that haven’t hit the main list yet but often sell before the ink dries on the paper.

If Indian is your thing, head to either two-Michelin star Gymkhana in Mayfair, serving food rich and bold in style, or alternatively its sister restaurant Trishna in Marylebone, more delicate and based mainly around fish. The good news on the wine front is that being in the same group, both restaurants are furnished by Seamus Sharkey and Emily Jago, who handpick different but equally compelling lists tailored towards the food being served.

Don’t miss the ultimate wine experience – book your tickets now for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025

Saturday

Breakfast

You may enjoy a lie-in so Saturday morning is all about the British tradition of elevenses, a fortifying snack taken around 11am to stave off any hunger pains that may arise between breakfast and lunch. The finest choice of all of these is an Eccles cake and a slice of Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese accompanied by a glass of Madeira, and the place to do that is the bar at St JOHN on St John Street just north of Smithfield market. By all means tuck into some of the other small plates or slide into the restaurant for lunch, which usually begins with the iconic bone marrow on toast.

Lunch

If you escape gout free, then a long walk (or a short cab ride) north into Islington is next on the agenda for lunch at the Draper’s Arms. The British pub is a sacred institution, but rarely does it come with a wine list that goes toe to toe with the best restaurants. This is the absolute exception here, where owner Nick Gibson has created a north London institution around incredibly well priced fine wine and plenty of value picks as well.

Dinner

It goes without saying that there are numerous options for a big Saturday night; fine dining in Notting Hill at The Ledbury or Core, one of the new wave bistros like Josephine or Bouchon Racine, but given the location and the food that has already been consumed I would recommend some small plates and stunning range of by-the-glass options at Quality Wines in Farringdon, a short ride south, owned by one of London’s finest restaurateurs, Will Lander. If something more substantial takes your fancy, then the Quality Chop House is next door, and both have incredibly broad lists with mature offerings to die for.

For those with a penchant for a bottle or two into the small hours, without the noise or extravagance of a nightclub, then The Black Book on Frith Street in Soho is for you. Owned by two Master Sommeliers (Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset) it serves as a haven for those looking for fine wine and cocktails in a relaxed environment until 3am.

Sunday

Breakfast

It would be amiss to have a weekend in London without a traditional full English breakfast (or fry up) at a traditional ‘caff’, which can be found all over town. Most of these come without alcohol (you may be pleased to know) and depending on location I would recommend E Pellicci (in east London), Regency Café (in central London) and River Café (in west London) opposite Putney Bridge station, not to be confused with the iconic Italian restaurant further north.

Lunch

That said, if it is a sunny Sunday in midsummer, then there is no greater lunch than on the terrace at The River Café (the other one!!) with a few plates of the finest pasta and a bottle of Pieropan Soave on ice. If you happen upon your trip in the autumn or winter then Sunday lunch should be spent at The Harwood Arms, London’s only Michelin star pub, owned by chef Brett Graham, eating the finest roast known to man. The wine list here is short, concise and well-tailored to a lazy afternoon meat feast, but to be honest you might just want a pint of ale.

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The path of documenting London’s top wine lists is well-trodden but here my recommendations focus on value, the food offerings alongside, a few regional specialities and a wholly positive and personal attitude to wine selection and service.

There are, of course, treasures to be found amongst 200-page tomes in Michelin starred dining rooms, but you will not find them documented here, instead lists compiled, and often served, by the restaurant owners themselves.

Best London restaurant wine lists

Blandford Comptoir

Part of a larger restaurant group owned by two Master Sommeliers, Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset, Blandford Comptoir was chosen above the others for its particular focus on the Rhône Valley. A quick glance through the list would lead you to believe this is the finest Rhône list in London, and you wouldn’t be wrong. A whole page devoted each to Côte Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape with references over forty years of age, even in Crozes-Hermitage. With more Condrieu and Saint-Péray than you could drink in a year, there is something for every Rhône lover to accompany the short but perfectly formed food menu. An absolute treasure trove.

Cloth

New to the scene in 2024, Cloth is a restaurant by wine lovers, for wine lovers. The food here is classic and exceptional, but the wine list is the real point of difference. It is incredibly rare for such a young restaurant to have such an extensive, broad and mature wine offering. Each subsection of the list has not only value picks but something to offer the drinker craving serious bottle age and the prices are more than fair.

Dorian

The myth and legend that surrounds ‘local bistro’ Dorian in Notting Hill is palpable. It goes without saying that not only is this the hottest ticket in town, but chef Max Coen is turning out some of the finest dishes in London. In addition to that, owner Chris D’Sylva is making more than a concerted effort across the whole group to make the wine offering as good as anywhere in the capital. For those looking for the upper echelons of classic fine wine you can find them here with cash margins applied, but it will also more than quench the thirst of those seeking anything from entry level wines from the coolest Burgundy growers to the uber trendy La Bota Florpower.

Don’t miss the ultimate wine experience – book your tickets now for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025

High Timber

High Timber is unquestionably one of the finest places to drink South African wine outside the Cape. Owned by Gary and Kathy Jordan of Jordan Wine Estate alongside the wonderful Neleen Strauss, there is a limited wine offering on the surface. That is, I have come to believe, only because there is too much to catalogue including gems that, truthfully, Neleen would rather not sell. A dive down through the two private dining rooms to the cellar will reveal hundreds of Cape Winemakers Guild Auction bottlings, mature vintages and some of the rarest wines South Africa has produced. You will find old world classics at great prices here too, but it’s not the primary focus for most of the clientele. If you are looking for an extensive steak offering with mature examples of Sadie, Alheit and dozens more then this is for you.

Hunan

Opened in 1982 on the Pimlico Road by ‘Mr Peng’, Hunan has been one of London’s finest Chinese restaurants for over four decades. Now run by his son, Michael, this iconic establishment has one of the very best wine lists in the capital. If you think the food only pairs well with off-dry whites then think again, there is as much fine Burgundy imbibed here than as anywhere else. Michael’s cataloguing is occasional haphazard which only adds to the charm. A scrap of paper with new arrivals yet to hit the list often circulates and before the ink dries there is occasionally a deal to be done. This is truly one of London’s great wine hotspots.

Le Colombier

For over twenty-five years, Le Colombier, a Parisian style brasserie in the heart of Chelsea, has been serving French classics under the watchful eye of Didier Garnier, one of the capital’s most revered restaurateurs. In that time the wine list has remained one of the undiscovered gems of the city, where pricing wine for local regulars has been the primary focus. The list is strictly French, although there was, for a while, a section entitled ‘vins étrangers’ that was composed of a lone listing of Opus One. Here you can expect mature class growth Bordeaux starting well under £100, first growths at retail price, the cheapest Guigal ‘LaLas’ in London and an incredibly broad selection of half bottles with wonderful Brasserie style food

Noble Rot

It would be impossible to compile a list of this nature without the inclusion of Noble Rot which, started by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew, has become a global icon for wine. The food is overseen by Stephen Harris of The Sportsman in Kent, which is reason enough to go, but the wine lists at all three venues are legendary. For the purposes of nostalgia, I would recommend the original Lambs Conduit Street site, but you will not be disappointed by Mayfair or Soho either. The list here caters for all tastes and all budgets and is surely the most iconic restaurant in the capital for wine lovers.

Quality Wines

Under the guise of the Woodhead Group, Will Lander has furnished the capital with five phenomenal restaurants all worthy of this list. However, given that only one could make the cut, it must be Quality Wines in uber trendy Farringdon. The food is more simple than Michelin star Portland or 64 Goodge Street, but the wine list is as eclectic as it is deep, with mature by-the-glass offerings changing daily. There are big names at fair prices alongside undiscovered gems from the Loire to Lebanon and everything in between.

The Arches

Once a regular wine trade haunt, owned by the late, great Harry Gill, the reputation of Arches was legendary in the pre-social media and influencer era. Harry built one of the finest wine collections in the UK and would be regularly found walking the dining room sharing anonymous bottles with his regulars, taking huge pleasure in realising they had, once again, misidentified Henri Jayer for something far less impressive.

The restaurant is adorned with thousands of trophies in the form of bottles long since departed and every inch of the walls is dedicated to the good life. Now run by his partner, Ivana, this vinous treasure flies under the radar and has more than a few classics at astonishing prices to pair with your perfectly cooked sirloin.

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Salad is often thought of as being tricky with wine. And yes, it’s true that adding a large, pungent helping of green salad with a vinegary dressing to your plate might disrupt (or even kill) a fragile, old Pomerol or a velvety Priorat. Vinegary dressings prefer to spar with young wines that have more tannic or acidic fight. So a better pick – if you want a red in your glass because you’re eating a well-dressed green salad with, say, rib of beef or roast duck – might be an edgy Chianti Classico, northern Rhône Syrah or youngish Médoc from a classical vintage.

But the real issue when it comes to any discussion of pairing wine with salad is the range and breadth of what is covered by the word ‘salad’, never mind what else might be with it on the plate. Where do you start? Where do you stop? I’ll begin with a classic that is often eaten as a meal in itself, especially in summer: salade niçoise. A classic pairing is rosé from Provence, which is partly a mood match: the two are so often eaten and drunk together on holiday in the south of France, with the smells of the maquis scrubland tickling your nostrils. Clément Cousin has a different idea. Cousin was a sommelier at Claridge’s Fera in its Simon Rogan days, and is now co-owner of Bavette, a neighbourhood bistro in Horsforth in Yorkshire, but he’s originally from the Loire and recommends trying Chenin Blanc from Anjou with a niçoise salad. ‘The acidity of the Chenin cuts through the richness of the tuna and eggs, and the minerality enhances the briny flavours of the olives and anchovies.’

Dominant flavours

In general, it pays to identify the key ingredient on your plate. Serving a big tomato salad alongside a bowl of spaghetti simply dressed with olive oil and fresh herbs or a roast chicken? Or perhaps a chopped Greek salad? Then you can take your cue from the tomatoes. Assyrtiko has a citrussy vigour that works well. So, too, does Sauvignon Blanc, which often has pyrazine notes that smell of grass, bell peppers and tomato leaves – this style will harmonise beautifully with the tomatoes on the plate.

Some foods have a habit of taking over a dish. Goat’s cheese (or curds) is one of these. For instance, a salad of bresaola and peppery dark leaves is very good with a perky Dolcetto red. Were you to add goat’s cheese to the plate, you’d be better with Sauvignon Blanc, ideally something lean and dry from the Loire or Bordeaux.

Sweet-bitter-fruit-herb

The sweet-sour-spice notes in Asian-style salads are good with aromatic wines that have fruitiness and purity. Think Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc (again), Riesling or Pinot Gris. With Vietnamese green papaya salad, my choice is always Riesling; founder of The Vietnamese Kitchen in London, Hieu Bui, suggests a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as ‘its zesty citrus and herbaceous notes mirror the freshness of the green papaya’. If you are spice-sensitive, choose a wine with some residual sugar to calm the sting of the capsaicin in the chilli.

Wines with a tinge of sweetness are also well matched to salads in which fruit, or a sweet dressing, plays a big part: imagine the luscious combination of a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo rosé with the sweetness of watermelon and silky creaminess of burrata; or a German kabinett Riesling with peaches, lime and rocket. Of course, you might have many salads on the plate at once, and a kaleidoscope of notes of sweet and bitter and fruity and herbaceous, in which case, take a leaf out of the Ottolenghi restaurant book: its house white is an apricot-hued, skin-contact wine that rubs along with pretty much anything.

Star pairings for salads

Thai-style salad with off-dry Riesling

Iris Ellmann of German specialist importer The WineBarn loves to make a salad of chicken, mango, noodles, lime, fish sauce, peanuts and chilli. ‘It’s tricky to balance the saltiness and sweetness of the ingredients with the wine. So, I normally choose a wine that offers both; my go-to is Göttelmann’s off-dry Nahe Riesling (2022 Vom Schiefer Feinherb, £16.10).’

Caesar salad with Arneis

The herbaceous notes of the Arneis variety are a good foil for the salty Parmesan and anchovies in the dressing. Try Giacomo Fenocchio, Roero Arneis 2023 (£24.50-£25 Armit, Hedonism, The Good Wine Shop) from Piedmont, northwest Italy.

Fennel, orange & radish salad with Grüner Veltliner

Grüner Veltliner has a peppery bite that sits very well with fennel and radishes. Add steamed or barbecued fish and you have the perfect dinner.

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For as long as I’ve been writing about wine there’s been an orthodoxy when it comes to pairing it with barbecue, as it’s been known until recently. The assumption is that it involves punchy marinades and heavily charred food (usually meat), which call for bold, fruity reds.

Now that pretty much every self-respecting restaurant has its own open fire, perceptions have changed. Asado, as it’s now more fashionably known, is all about subtlety: char yes, but smoke and even different woods.

Live fire has entered the world of fine dining. ‘Food cooked on the barbecue is not always punchy and intense – it depends on the type of oak (different oaks from different regions give different flavours to the final product), as well as the elements of and the idea behind the dish,’ says Alessio Ragusini, head sommelier at Michelin one-star Humo in London’s Mayfair district (the restaurant’s name even means smoke). ‘Sometimes, you find yourself in front of a delicate piece of fish or meat that you wouldn’t expect to taste that way just by looking at the fire pit. Most of the time, the best pairings here at Humo are not made using powerful wines, but rather delicate, mineral ones.’

Ollie Templeton, co-founder and head chef at Carousel in nearby Charlotte Street, agrees. ‘The type of wood makes a difference. Heavy smoke from something like oak might call for bigger, more structured wines, while with lighter fruit woods you can lean more into fresher, brighter bottles. The fire becomes its own ingredient.’

Lighter touch

I heard this reflective, nuanced reaction again and again from chefs and sommeliers, who enthused not about blockbuster Malbecs and Shiraz but whites and delicate reds such as Pinot Noir and Trousseau.

‘When it comes to pairing reds, we try to steer away from anything too tannic. Big, dusty tannins seem to fight with the more delicate aromatics you can get from cooking over fire,’ says Holly Wilcox of Mountain, a Michelin one-star restaurant in Soho well known for its wood-fired cooking. ‘Pinot Noirs from Burgundy or Mencías from Galicia work better with our Jersey beef rib.’

White wines are just as likely to feature among Wilcox’s pairings. ‘When thinking about which wines to pair with food cooked over fire, I’m always drawn to wines that mimic that smoky characteristic,’ she says. ‘Grapes grown on volcanic soils fare well.’

There are also going to be situations when the origin and style of the food are a more important factor than the cooking process. For example, at the popular Thai restaurant Kiln, also in Soho, it’s as much about the punchy flavours of the sauces and the sometimes eyewatering heat of the chillies as it is the grill and the clay pots that are used to cook the food. The restaurant’s wine buyer Akis Gikas favours fashionable, low intervention wines for their freshness, modest alcohol and versatility. Skin-contact wines handle heat well. It’s a similar scenario with Indian food.

No need to overthink it

Then, of course, there’s wood-fired pizza, which we’re so used to now that we wouldn’t dream of pairing it with anything other than the sort of wine we’d drink if it was cooked in our oven at home.

So maybe, as much as anything, it’s about seeing wood-fired cooking as the new normal – and pairing with it similar types of wine to those you would drink with food cooked using any other kind of grill or oven. All good news, really. Ultimately, you don’t have to drink blockbuster ‘barbecue wines’ with asado – subtlety is the name of the game.

Five star pairings for asado

Wood-roasted lion’s mane mushrooms with Ashes & Diamonds, Blanc No8, Napa Valley, USA 2022

Alessio Ragusini, Humo. It works because of the iodine and chalky notes in the wine, which is a Semillon-Sauvignon blend.

US$45 Ashes & Diamonds | Alcohol 12.6%

Wood-grilled Dover sole with Suertes del Marqués, Vidonia, Tenerife, Spain

Holly Wilcox, Mountain. Lemon pith, campfire and sea salt from the wine, seasoning the fish with each sip.

2023: £54-£58 Holy Spirits, Shrine to the Vine, Sip, Vino Gusto | Alc 13%

Grilled pork neck & soya bean relish with Rennersistas, Intergalactic, Burgenland, Austria 2024

Akis Gikas, Kiln. A skin-contact, field-blend white, the wine is predictably good with the pork, but also stands up to the punchy relish. Via UK importer Newcomer Wines

Sharmaji’s Lahori chicken with Domaine Morat, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Sur la Roche, Burgundy, France 2022

Chet Sharma, BiBi Mayfair. The perfect balance of bitterness and sweetness from the wood-cooked chicken breast works beautifully with the acidity of the Chardonnay.

£52.67 Flint Wines | Alc 13%

Wood-roasted suckling pig with Jose Gil, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja, Spain 2023

Owen Morgan, Asador 44 Cardiff. A delicate yet rich dish that works with this modern, Burgundy-influenced Rioja.

£50-£54 Caviste, Pullo Exeter | Alc 13%

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More and more of us are choosing to incorporate no/low options into our downtime, both out and at home, a switch that Beatrice Bessi, head sommelier at London’s Chiltern Firehouse, likens to the rise in plant-based eating. ‘No and low options aren’t kept separate, for those who never drink [as vegetarian menus once were, for non-carnivores],’ she says. ‘They’re now mainstream, for everyone.’

In bars, no/low beers and cocktails, and aperitifs such as Botivo are on the up. For instance, Soho House’s no/low drinks offering across all its locations now comprises 30% of the menu. ‘A standout for me is the Skinny Tommy’s Margarita, made with Quarter-Proof’s Blanco Agave spirit,’ says Cyril Françoise, Soho House’s head of bars for the UK, Europe and Asia.

Personal touch

When it comes to fine dining and food matching, on the other hand, the approach to no/low often takes its cue from the way in which the kitchen manages the food menu. This means bespoke drinks, made from the best ingredients and often involving handmade syrups, tonics, infusions and juices.

‘At Spring [in Somerset House, London], we always have a seasonal house-made soda, made from fruit, freshly cooked each morning,’ says head chef Eleanor Henson. ‘Moving through the year, we serve rhubarb, white peach and lemon verbena, strawberry, apple and melon, to name a few. We also have a house tonic, made using quinine, orange flower water and raw acacia honey. Its bitter quality cuts through the clean, fresh flavours of each dish we serve in the restaurant and is perfect to combine with recipes such as horseradish crème fraiche or wild nettle risotto with ricotta salata.’

For the non-alcoholic version of the seven-course pairing menu at Michelin three-star Hélène Darroze at the Connaught, head of wine Lucas Reynaud-Paligot has sourced ‘products freshly ground, crushed, infused and pressed’. He pairs a herbaceous blend of cucumber juice, fresh fennel and thyme infusion with red mullet, Piedmont hazelnuts, rhubarb and argan oil. Grapes do get a look-in, but not in their fermented form: instead, Reynaud-Paligot has gone for a full-flavoured blend of beetroot, Coeur de Boeuf tomato, Merlot juice, celery, Worcestershire sauce and Tasmanian black pepper, and matched it with a choice of pigeon with peas, fresh wasabi, black garlic and kiwi or A5 Wagyu beef from Gunma prefecture, Japan.

Flavour of the moment

For home cooks who don’t wish to rustle up their own tonic or finely honed blend of juices and infusions, the Hélène Darroze menu offers a nod to the ready-made product that sommeliers love: kombucha (fermented tea), whose tangy edge Reynaud-Paligot pairs with brill and green asparagus. Sparkling tea is also winning over the somm crowd because, like wine, it has provenance and fine, complex flavours that can work well with food.

What’s the difference between kombucha and sparkling tea? Sparkling tea isn’t necessarily fermented; it can simply be carbonated tea, which may be blended with other ingredients, though some kombucha brands (such as Real) prefer to market themselves as sparkling tea. Harry Cooper, general manager and head sommelier at Counter 71 in Shoreditch, London, has done a lot of work with Saicho sparkling tea, and says the pairing options are particularly appreciated by those who come from strong tea cultures.

Hero products & great pairings

Jukes 6 The Sparkling Red

Writer Matthew Jukes developed his eponymous range of 0% drinks using an apple cider vinegar base (like a shrub syrup), flavoured with beautifully nuanced blends of plant ingredients. Both the Ledbury and Trinity Restaurant use the World Alcohol-Free Awards gold medal-winning Jukes 6 in their own creative drinks; it’s also delicious poured on its own, and loves barbecued meats, pulled pork and roast duck.

£4-£5/25cl Hic, Parched, YappBros

Romain des Grottes L’Antidote

A gorgeous, herb-scented sparkling drink made by a winemaker using the (unfermented) juice of Beaujolais-grown Gamay grapes and infusions of herbs from his vineyard and garden (the thyme is the first you pick out, strongly, on the nose, but also rosemary, oregano, bay, lemon verbena and others). I was put onto this by the sommelier at the Palomar restaurant in Soho, who said they sell so much of it they can’t keep it in stock and that its herbal notes go very well with the Palomar’s Spanish/Levant/North Africa-influenced food. With 70-80g/L of residual sugar, it isn’t dry, but I love it with aubergine, tomatoes and red peppers fried with thyme and garlic.

£15-£18.95/75cl Gnarly Vines, Hamblin Bread, Kerb, Neal’s Yard Dairy, Tiny’s Tipple, Wright’s Wines

Saicho Hojicha Sparkling Tea

Hojicha is a roasted green tea from Japan and here it’s cold-brewed and blended with grape juice to create a toasty, effervescent drink rich in smoky, umami flavours. Saicho co-founder Charlie Winkworth-Smith loves to drink it with mushroom risotto. Its roasted notes also work well with turbot with nutty herb butter.

£20/75cl Harrods, or £17.99 at saichodrinks.com

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Honouring the passion, palate, and people behind the pour.

Each year on 3 June the global wine community celebrates International Sommelier Day – a moment to recognise the vital role sommeliers play in bringing wine to life. First established by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI), this day shines a spotlight on the knowledge, service and storytelling that sommeliers bring to tables around the world.

Scroll down to discover top-scoring DWWA wines expertly paired by our judges

At Decanter, we’re grateful for the extraordinary sommeliers working across the on-trade – from Michelin-star floors to neighbourhood gems – whose long hours, deep training, and personal commitment make wine feel accessible and exciting. We’re especially proud to welcome so many of them each year as judges at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA). In 2025, 22 Master Sommeliers and many more sommeliers joined the DWWA panel, helping us evaluate wines from all over the world.

To mark the occasion, we invited four of these outstanding professionals to share their favourite DWWA 2024 award-winning wine, along with a personal food pairing. Their choices – thoughtful, approachable and delicious – remind us of the sommelier’s unique role as a bridge between the vineyard and the table.

Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin – Switzerland

Swiss-based British sommelier Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin has built a reputation for combining deep wine knowledge with elegant, guest-focused hospitality. At Memories, the Michelin-star restaurant she co-founded with her husband Sven Wassmer, her pairings reflect terroir, emotion and a playful sense of discovery.

Wine recommendation:

Domaine Histoire D’enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir, Salquenen, Valais, Switzerland 2019

Platinum, 97 points

Enchanting raspberry, strawberry and freshly picked cherries charm and delight with a delicious infusion of sumptuous red liquorice, clove and star anise rippling alongside. Capacious and warming with a simmering gravelly undertone of mineral tannin. Superb! Alcohol 13.9%

Wassmer-Bulgin’s notes:

‘Swiss wine? Yes, really. This juicy, structured Pinot Noir is pure, precise and quietly thrilling.’

Food match:

A cassoulet of Puy lentils and rustic sausage with garlic and herbs. ‘The wine’s acidity and savoury lift echo the dish’s depth and earthiness.’

Sommelier tip:

‘Match the intensity of the wine to the mood of the dish – think of it like a conversation.’

Guilty pleasure:

‘Classic fish and chips with Chardonnay-based English fizz.’

Follow Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin on Instagram and see her website here.

Raimonds Tomsons – Latvia

Raimonds Tomsons made global headlines when he was crowned Best Sommelier of the World 2023 by ASI. Known for his precision, humility and passion for hospitality, Tomsons is a champion of wine education and Central & Eastern European wine regions.

Wine recommendation:

Chateau Sainte Marguerite, Fantastique, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé, Provence, France 2023

Silver, 92 points

Nice depth on the nose, with strawberry, orange and peach aromas. Fresh fruit salad melange of flavours, with some peppery fruit, a touch of guava and good length. Alc 13%

Tomsons’ notes:

‘Summer is coming – best time of the year to enjoy a fine glass of Rosé.

Food match:

‘San Marzano tomatoes, burrata, anchovies and basil. The wine’s salinity and fruit meet the creamy, savoury complexity of the dish.’

Sommelier tip:

‘Relax! Some of the best pairings are traditional – what grows together, goes together.’

Guilty pleasure:

‘Anchovies and manzanilla Sherry. Perfection.’

Follow Raimonds Tomsons on Instagram and see his website here.

Élyse Lambert MS – Canada

Hailing from Québec, Élyse Lambert MS is one of North America’s most respected sommeliers. With titles including Best Sommelier of the Americas and a top-five finish at the ASI Best Sommelier of the World, she brings both grace and granular knowledge to wine education and hospitality.

Wine recommendation:

Le Clos Jordanne, Jordan Village Chardonnay, Ontario – Niagara Peninsula, Canada 2021

Gold, 95 points

Alluring white flowers, lemons and stone fruit enhanced by sweet vanilla pod oak. Flowing with mineral exuberance, flinty and crisp, with a lovely tension and charming finish. Alc 13.5%

Lambert’s notes:

‘A Canadian classic – local, textured and expressive with elegant oak.’

Food match:

‘Steamed lobster with lemon butter. A celebration of seasonal Canadian flavours.’

Sommelier tip:

‘Start with what brings you joy – the sauce and garnishes matter as much as the protein.’

Guilty pleasure:

‘Chablis with snow crab, or Chianti Classico with homemade polpettes.’

Follow Élyse Lambert MS on Instagram.

Benjamin Hasko MS MW – Singapore

Australia-born and Singapore-based, Benjamin Hasko MS MW is one of the few people in the world to hold both Master of Wine and Master Sommelier titles. His dual credentials underpin his consulting work across Asia, where he helps hotels, collectors and brands fine-tune their wine offerings.

Wine recommendation:

Flametree, S.R.S. Wallcliffe Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia 2022

Gold, 96 points

Fabulous and action-packed with heaps of glorious apple, pear and peach on grilled nuts and a salty, smoky note. Creamy and glossy with succulent acidity and length. Alc 13%

Hasko’s notes:

‘Bright acidity, subtle oak, and serious depth – a benchmark from Western Australia.’

Food match:

‘Grilled prawns with salsa verde. The wine’s toastiness and citrus zip enhance the prawns’ sweetness and herbs.’

Sommelier tip:

‘Keep experimenting – there’s no perfect match, just great combinations.’

Guilty pleasure:

‘Barolo with Middle Eastern food.’

Follow Benjamin Hasko MS MW on Instagram and see his website here.

Search all DWWA 2024 results

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When modern wine connoisseurs describe Champagne, the term versatile is often used, usually in reference to its adaptability to food pairings, from caviar and oysters to more modern delights like haute fried chicken.

Champagne has come a long way from being the lone bottle collecting dust at the back of a cellar awaiting a special occasion, to one that’s worthy of opening on a Monday night – just because.

The pomp and circumstance that once surrounded popping a cork no longer apply, making Champagne completely and utterly versatile.

In the US, bars and restaurants have embraced Champagne’s evolution with multi-page wine lists, Champagne flights for that just because moment, and avant-garde culinary pairings.

When it comes to seeking out a stateside reservation for superlative Champagne offerings, the following 16 venues will certainly quench your thirst.

Coqodaq – New York City, New York

Champagne and fried chicken are one of modern society’s trendiest indulgences, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this Manhattan hotspot.

‘It’s a perfect balance of sophistication and comfort,’ says Dominique Demarville, cellar master at Lallier Champagne and a fan of Coqodaq’s signature pairing.

Coqodaq might be a New York newcomer, having opened in 2024, but it swiftly shot to the top of the list of must-visit venues in the city (and country) for its Champagne list of more than 400 bottles, curated by executive beverage director Victoria James. The list is widely quoted as the largest Champagne list in North America.

Eleven Madison Park – New York City, New York

‘This Champagne list shows a ton of range,’ says Hugo Bensimon, sommelier at Grill 23 in Boston.

This restaurant’s 220-page wine list counts Pierre Péters Les Chétillons 1990 and Krug Clos du Mesnil 1989 in magnum among its number.

If you like what you sip here, the highly acclaimed restaurant runs a wine club; whether you want to sign up for monthly boxes or one-off deliveries, expect thoughtful and grand selections from its 20,000-bottle cellar.

Peak – New York City, New York

Alongside one of the best views in NYC, this rooftop lounge flaunts a strong by-the-glass program, which is why you’ll likely find Jonathan Boulangeat, Head of Rare Champagne for US distributor Folio Fine Wine Partners, here whenever he’s in town.

By-the-glass options include: Rare Champagne Brut 2008, Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition, and Pol Roger Brut 2016.

Corkbuzz – New York City, New York

It’s a rare occasion to find Champagne in restaurants at retail price points, but Corkbuzz defies the odds (which are even greater in NYC).

With a thoughtful mix of growers and Grandes Marques, the selections are intentional, says Nicole Muscari, a New York-based wine consultant and educator.

‘You can usually find wines that are difficult to source or available only through tight allocations,’ she adds, highlighting several cuvées from top grower Georges Laval on the list.

The Bar at Daniel – New York City, New York

If you’re looking for a bar that feels both French and classically New York at the same time, Didier Mariotti, cellar master at Veuve Clicquot, suggests The Bar at Daniel.

‘It makes me feel right at home,’ says Mariotti, praising the selection of prestige cuvées, including one of his favorite vintages of Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame, 2015, as well as the cheese cart and rotation of seasonal art that makes it feel like a new dining experience each time he visits.

The Bar at Baccarat Hotel – New York City, New York

‘The Baccarat Hotel is the epitome of luxury,’ says Demarville of this iconic NYC hotel.

Its onsite bar, where a variety of prestige cuvées and more avant-garde selections await, is no exception.

‘The ambiance is elegant, making it the ideal setting to enjoy Champagne in all its forms,’ he says.

Grill 23 & Bar – Boston, Massachusetts

This independent steakhouse has been a favorite among wine enthusiasts since 1983.

The likes of Taittinger and Vilmart & Cie hold a place on its by-the-glass list, while Champagnes by the bottle take up seven pages of its wine list. These include a selection of grandes marques, negociants and small growers among them.

Sexy Fish – Miami, Florida

This Asian restaurant dedicates an entire page to various vintages, cuvées and formats of Dom Pérignon including a methuselah (equivalent to eight standard bottles) of 2006 for $25,000.

‘It’s truly a playground for the Champagne-obsessed connoisseur,’ says Miami-based wine columnist and consultant, ​​Jacqueline Coleman.

Another selling point is that Sexy Fish is one of Miami’s best ‘clubstaurants’. ‘Where dinner is always followed by a party, if they aren’t happening at the same time already,’ says Coleman.

Amara – Miami, Florida

‘Amara is a relaxed venue on Biscayne Bay where wine nerds can really geek out,’ says Coleman.

‘In a flashy city like Miami, sometimes it’s hard to find places that elevate smaller or lesser-known producers,’ she says, but Amara succeeds with a thoughtful list highlighting smaller producers.

These include: Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Frédéric Savart and Larmandier-Bernier.

Bern’s Steak House – Tampa, Florida

Bern’s Steak House has been a destination restaurant for oenophiles since 1960 when founder Bern Laxer released the first edition of its wine list with the idea ‘to offer guests the opportunity to drink any kind of wine, from anywhere in the world at a reasonable price.’

Today, the wine list is on its 84th edition and boasts over 100 bottles of the best Champagnes.

Sushi Kashiba – Seattle, Washington

Sushi Kashiba is the best place to get grower Champagne in Seattle, according to fatcork Champagne club founder Bryan Maletis.

‘All the bottles complement the selection of sushi,’ says Maletis, ‘whether it’s a glass of zero-dosage blanc de blancs to go with the clean flavors of various white fish; a bottle of vintage, neutral oak-aged blanc de noirs to go with tuna and salmon; or a half-bottle of a Pinot Meunier-dominant Champagne to go with the bolder flavours of sea urchin and geoduck.’

The current by-the-glass pick is Etienne Calsac’s Les Rocheforts, and the list always features a rotating half-bottle of Champagne too.

Beverly Hills Hotel – Los Angeles, California

If the taste of old Hollywood glamour doesn’t entice you back time and time again, Mathieu Roland-Billecart, CEO and seventh generation of Champagne Billecart-Salmon, assures that the rare and vintage Champagne options at this ‘timeless classic’ will.

Nobu Malibu – Malibu, California

There’s no denying that Nobu Malibu’s vistas of the Pacific Ocean are a main draw for diners, however Bollinger’s cellar master, Denis Bunner, says that the cuisine and wine service are what makes it such a memorable destination for him.

‘I remember my first sip of Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année 2015 with their toro tartare and caviar, and it was a revelation,’ he says.

‘It is a great place to explore the unique flavors and taste sensations that different styles of Champagne can bring out in the food.’

The Little Nell – Aspen, Colorado

Aspen’s The Little Nell is consistently recognised for its five-star food and beverage program, and this includes a vast selection of Champagne.

‘The list allows you to explore a wide variety of styles, producers and vintages,’ says Hugo Bensimon, sommelier at Grill 23 in Boston.

‘It’s a lovely way to either see the whole range from a specific producer – or different vintage expressions.’

Bensimon highlights Salon 2008 in magnum and Billecart-Salmon’s Grand Cuvée 1996 as particular cellar standouts.

Effervescence – New Orleans, Louisiana

Large-format bottles, Champagne flights and 10 acclaimed labels by the glass shoot this restaurant to the top of unique concepts in New Orleans.

Whether you’re visiting for its happy hour, which includes rotating bubbly specials, or settling in for sparkling Sundays, you may want to leave extra time to enjoy all that Effervescence offers.

Pops for Champagne – Chicago, Illinois

Just off Chicago’s Magnificent Mile, Pops for Champagne has delighted since 1982 with a happy hour that always features a Champagne by the glass and an extensive bottle list that includes every style, from vintage to demi-sec and doux.

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A batch of good collard greens (spring greens in the UK) takes hours to make. It’s a fuss, but one any Southerner is proud to make.

First, you must carefully clean each individual leaf. Then you stew and simmer the greens in stock and bacon fat with a smoked ham hock and plenty of onions and garlic. After several hours, the greens break down, scenting the air with meat and warmth. They’re eaten sopped up with a piece of cornbread. The pot liquor – the flavourful broth left at the bottom of the bowl – is the drink of choice with any Southern fare.

Traditional food of the American South is all about comfort and laidback charm, with a rich black history. These days, it has seen a major evolution into fine dining, embracing diversity from communities of migrants and bringing a finesse that speaks of global influence. ‘You find the roots of Southern cuisine in restaurants, but you’re seeing a lot more fusion, other cultures,’ says Phil Cerrito, co-owner of Bebop Bottle Shop in Asheville, North Carolina.

‘The type of produce historically grown in the area – okra, peanuts, satsuma mandarins, Tybee island oysters – all has a historical connection to the South, no matter the cuisine,’ says Jamie Crotts, sommelier and owner of Limestone Wines in Savannah, Georgia. ‘If everything is sourced locally, then it has a Southern soul.’

So-called meat and threes – a dish of protein plus three sides – is a Southern staple. Cerrito says Asheville’s fish plates and threes – a fillet of grilled or fried fish with, for example, mac and cheese, hushpuppies (deep-fried balls of cornmeal-based batter) and a smoked trout dip with fish roe – work brilliantly with a Chenin Blanc. He also suggests pairing Southern fare with an Italian ‘lunch wine’ such as a Schiava from Friuli or a Grignolino. ‘These reds are light and fresh, typically with lower alcohol. Brightness and freshness help lift these heavier dishes.’

As for the collard greens, Cerrito recommends drinking Cisteller’s Verbena from Penedès in Catalonia, Spain (made from the Manzoni Bianco grape, a crossing of Riesling with Pinot Blanc). ‘There’s a lot of umami, fat and smokiness in the greens; now you can introduce some acid to that dish.’

Wine culture

The Southern states are home to dozens of AVA wine regions – in Arkansas, Georgia, Mississippi, North Carolina, Tennessee, Texas and Virginia. Though most Southern wineries are agro-tourism sites, meaning the local wines aren’t widely distributed to retail shops or restaurants, wine appetite is steadily growing in the cities.

For people such as Kelly Cornett, an Atlanta-based wine consultant, it’s about connecting wine with foods people already know and love. She pairs Atlanta’s famous fried lemon pepper wet wings with Champagne at her tasting events. She also organises tastings at Asian restaurants on Buford Highway – a 50km stretch of road in Atlanta with numerous dining options; it could be at a Vietnamese place or a Korean barbecue joint with a BYOB (bring your own beverage) policy.

‘If you’ve never paired a wine with bibimbap, you need to,’ says Cornett. ‘It shows a playfulness to the food and wine scene. It’s Atlanta – you gotta have fun.’

Pairings for Southern food

Shrimp and grits with Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi, Las Uvas de la Ira, Sierra de Gredos, Spain 2020

‘A default would be a rich white, but my go-to with shrimp grits is a light red. Typically, there’s a buttermilk component in there; it needs acid. This Garnacha is vibrant, red fruited and has tons of lift,’ says Crotts.

£33 Waud Wines. Alcohol 14.5%

Atlantic cod with fried okra, cilantro chutney and pickled peppers with Cloudland Vineyards, Wildflower, Georgia, USA 2023

The marmalade and umami notes in this skin-contact blend of Petit Manseng and Viognier complement the green okra, while the fruitiness lifts the fish, and the body from the Viognier gives the wine structure to withstand flavourful chutneys.

Cloudland Vineyards. Alc 12%

Kansas City-style barbecue smoked pulled pork sliders with pickled jalapeño with Glen Manor Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, Virginia, USA 2022

‘Smoke, tobacco and green pepper in the wine play off the smoke, spice and tang of the pork, with enough acidity in the wine to offer structure,’ says Cornett. ‘The jalapeños counter the pyrazines in the Cab Franc.’

US$48 Glen Manor Vineyards. Alc 14.6%

Fried chicken rice bowl with Kimchi slaw, potato salad and radish with Strawberry Fields cocktail made with strawberry, white peach tea, lemon basil foam and Minhwa Spirits, Yong Soju, Doraville, Georgia, USA

Atlanta’s own soju and makgeolli distillery is a window into the Korean culture taking root in the South, incorporating Southern influences such as slaw, fried chicken and peach tea with Korean flavors, this cocktail and rice bowl mashup is a refreshing hit.

US$38 Elemental Spirits Co. Alc 40%

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The Michelin constellation shines ever more brightly in Argentina following the release of the country’s second report. The gastronomy guide, which included 25 new entries across categories – three new flagship stars, three Bib Gourmands, three green stars and 16 recommended – confirmed that Buenos Aires and Mendoza, the two regions covered by the guide, take sustainability and eco-responsibility seriously. The up-and-coming generation of chefs and sommeliers also proved their mettle.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guide, noted the inspectors had been enchanted by the local gastronomy scene. ‘They continue to discover that Argentina emphasises each establishment’s personality, signalling great professionalism, growing concern for eco-responsibility and renewing the value of Argentina’s best products,’ he said.

Excellence consolidated

The Michelin Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2025 was unveiled at an event held at Susana Balbo Wines, in Perdriel, Mendoza. A total of 80 venues – 56 in Buenos Aires and 24 in Mendoza – made the cut, boosted by the exciting line up of new entries.

All of the six restaurants awarded one Michelin star in 2024 breathed a sigh of relief s their names were announced again.

They were joined by three new one-starred establishments.

Known for its oyster bar and seafood-driven menu, Crizia, the Buenos Aires restaurant led by husband-and-wife team Gabriel Oggero and Geraldine Gastaldo, followed up 2024’s green star with a red one – a fortunate recognition as the venue celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

Oggero’s former head chef Juan Ventureyra attained the same honours in Mendoza at Riccitelli Bistró, at Matias Riccitelli Wines, in Las Compuertas.

Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, led by dynamic young duo Josefina Diana and Juan Manuel Feijoo, also upped its game with its own set of green and red stars. Alongside Casa Vigil, which also falls under the Catena umbrella, Angélica Cocina Maestra has taken the renowned winery’s haul to four stars, the most of any group.

The full list list of one-starred restaurants in Argentina is now as follows:

• Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, Mendoza
• Azafrán, Mendoza
• Brindillas, Mendoza
• Casa Vigil at Bodega El Enemigo, Mendoza
• Crizia, Buenos Aires
• Parrilla Don Julio, Buenos Aires
• Riccitelli Bistró, Mendoza
• Trescha, Buenos Aires
• Zonda Cocina de Paisaje at Bodega Lagarde, Mendoza

Lonely at the top

Meanwhile, Aramburu, located in Buenos Aire’s Recoleta neighbourhood, renewed its lonely two-star status. Chef Gonzalo Aramburu’s 18-course tasting experience impressed inspectors again with a combination of technical ability, dramatic presentation and outstanding ingredients.

Young age, mature talent

In the individual categories, young talent cleaned up and confirmed a bright future for the Argentine wine & dine scene. Nicolás Tykocki of Ácido was, at the tender age of 27, named Best Young Chef for his daring and skilful approach, merging international influences, including Korean, Lebanese, Turkish, Chinese and Spanish.

The sommelier duo Elena Cabrera and Leonel Castro Ortiz jointly received the Michelin Sommelier award for their enthusiastic work at one-star Trescha, underscoring Chef Tomás Treschanski’s ‘test kitchen’ philosophy..

Capital value

The coveted ‘great value’ Bib Gourmand nods continue to elude Mendoza establishments and were solely awarded in Buenos Aires. With the addition of Ácido, Ajo Negro and MN Santa Inés, the capital’s total Big Gourmand roster rose to 10.

MN Santa Inés, led by chef Jazmín Marturet, was a welcome surprise. Operating out of a former industrial bakery, in Buenos Aires’ offbeat Paternal neighbourhood, that Maruret renovated with her father, MN Santa Inés offering was singled out by inspectors ‘for its international and eclectic flavours’.

16 other venues, including a host of 2024 openings, were added to the guide’s ‘selected restaurants’ list. These include Ultramarinos, in a second Michlin nod for chef Maxi Rossi of Picarón fame; Michel Rolland Grill & Wine, a concept built around the cellar and tasted of the renowned oenology consultant; La Vid at Bodega Norton; and Martino Wines, at the eponymous winery in Mendoza. Osadía de Crear at Susana Balbo Wines added a green star to its guide entry.

The growth and diversity of this year’s edition attests to the vibrancy and evolution of the Argentine hospitality industry, consolidating its status – alongside fierce competition from some of its neighbours – as a culinary powerhouse.

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Our guide to Manhattan restaurant wine lists

While the number of Manhattan restaurant wine lists worth checking out goes far beyond the confines of one article, we’ve rounded up 10 of our favourite spots for eating and drinking right now.

The saying goes that wine is best enjoyed with food, and in the realm of exceptional lists, New York is home to some of the world’s greatest.

From long-standing classics to new-to-the-scene seafood counters, Korean fried chicken joints, and more, the city is brimming with versatile wine lineups that promise to leave a lasting impression – it’s simply a matter of knowing where to look.

For those eager to deepen their appreciation of fine wine, the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York returns on Saturday 6 June and is not to be missed.

Manhattan restaurant wine lists: 10 of the best

Borgo

124 E 27th St, New York, NY 10016

New York boasts no shortage of cozy Italian restaurants, though few offer a wine list as impressive as Borgo’s. Opened in late 2024, the space represents the first Manhattan-based venture for Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow (Diner, Marlow & Sons, Roman's), and has quickly captured neighbourhood hearts with its wood-fired focaccia, homemade pastas, and impressively curated wine list.

In addition to eclectic sparkling and rosé offerings—think picks from I Vigneri, Radikon, and Emidio Pepe—the rest of the list leans French and Italian heavy, featuring extensive selections from Piedmont, Tuscany, Burgundy, and Sicily.

Whether hearth-cooked pastas or wood-fired meats and veggies are what you’re craving, Borgo’s got the perfect bottle—and unmatched ambiance—to go with.

Café Carmellini

250 5th Ave, New York, NY 10001

Opened in late 2023, Café Carmellini is situated inside the sophisticated Fifth Avenue Hotel, and is spearheaded by namesake chef Andrew Carmellini.

The wine list, which is curated and overseen by Master Sommelier Josh Nadel, features 1,800 selections from both highly regarded and lesser-known producers alike, with a heavy emphasis on France, Italy and the United States.

Stop in for the restaurant’s daily lunch deal, which offers three courses for $85, and peruse the list for something equally exciting.

Chambers

94 Chambers St #1, New York, NY 10007

Located in the former space of past downtown wine destination Racines, Chambers offers a breath of fresh air – and an impeccably curated wine list – to New York’s Financial District.

Spearheaded by Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, Chambers’ sustainability-forward wine list highlights a myriad of natural, organic and biodynamic producers, featuring up-and-coming names to long-standing legends alike.

Best of all, over a third of the restaurant’s space is saved for walk-ins, and is offered on a first-come, first-serve basis. Come for the 88-page list, stay for the small bites, and grab one of the many (and we mean many) selections of Chartreuse available before heading out.

COQODAQ

12 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010

Champagne lovers, this one’s for you. Coqodaq’s list is dazzled with over 400 Champagne selections alone, making it the largest Champagne restaurant lineup in the country.

Helmed by Simon Kim and beverage director and partner Victoria James, the pair behind nearby COTE Korean Steakhouse, Coqodaq’s knockout list also features an equally exciting selection of still white, red and rosé wines, the majority of which hail from small, artisanal producers around the globe.

Keep this entry at the top of your Bucket List (don’t worry, you’ll get the pun after you check this unmissable restaurant out for yourself).

Gramercy Tavern

2 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003

Established in 1994 by restaurateur Danny Meyer, Gramercy Tavern has been a New York wine institution for over 30 years, and somehow, the programme continues to get better and better.

The Bible-like beverage list spans an impressive 96 pages, and features a variety of global regions, styles and varieties. Fans of Champagne, Burgundy and German Riesling will take delight in the list’s extensive offerings, and those on a budget will find a myriad of fun options on the programme’s ‘Bottles for a Benjamin’ page, each of which clock in at exactly $100 even.

Jupiter

20 W 50th St (Rink Level) New York, NY 10020

Founded by the star trio behind beloved downtown restaurant King, Jupiter offers a welcome reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Rockefeller Center, featuring handmade pastas, well-executed vegetables, and a robust wine list focused on French, Italian and Californian offerings.

Expect classic selections from the likes of Roulot, Roagna, and Quintarelli, as well as a number of picks from new-to-the-scene producers from lesser-known Italian regions (Lazio, Umbria and more).

Le Chêne

76 Carmine St, New York, NY 10014

Le Chêne is breathing new life into New York’s French dining scene, with a Bible-like wine list to boot. The first solo project for husband-wife duo Alexia Duchêne and Ronan Duchêne Le May, the restaurant focuses on classic French dishes and seasonal ingredients, with menu staples including crab thermidor, foie gras terrine, and the renowned Pithiviers Terre & Mer, prepared with potato gratin, pork farce, smoked eel, and beetroot condiment.

The extensive wine list, overseen by Duchêne Le May (formerly of Cafe Boulud), leans French-heavy, with robust Burgundy, Champagne, and back-vintage Bordeaux offerings.

Beyond the restaurant’s equally well-curated list of cocktails and digestifs, we found the best way to end a meal is with a splash of 15-year-old Château d'Yquem, poured from a massive six-litre bottle kept proudly on display in the back of the dining room.

Penny

90 E 10th St 1st Floor, New York, NY 10003

Located upstairs from its sister restaurant Claud, Penny is the seafood-focused brainchild of Joshua Pinsky and Chase Sinzer, and like its older sibling, is home to one of the best wine lists in the city.

This small-yet-fierce East Village fish counter exclusively features counter seating (31 stools are available), and all 17 dishes incorporate some form of seafood in their regimen – making it no surprise that the 1,000-bottle list leans white and sparkling heavy.

Expect extensive Grower Champagne selections from Prévost, Chartogne-Taillet and Elise Bougy, as well as a healthy Burgundy selection (back vintages included).

Saint Urban

43 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003

Saint Urban is one of New York’s most exciting and underrated dining destinations for wine lovers. Opened in May 2025 in the former Veritas space, the wine-focused restaurant features a rotating monthly tasting menu centred around a globally renowned region, with curated pours served alongside each course.

Chef Jared Stafford-Hill, who spearheads both the kitchen and the wine list, offers both four and seven-course options, with past themes including Burgundy, Piedmont, Champagne, and the Northern Rhône.

While Stafford-Hill’s wine pairings are undoubtedly the star of the show, those who prefer to sip by the bottle can choose from a seemingly endless amount of options spread across a show-stopping 140 pages.

Reservations open one month in advance; see the Saint Urban website to view upcoming regional features.

The Modern

9 W 53rd St, New York, NY 10019

The Modern’s wine list has been deemed the best in the city by various wine professionals over the years, and it’s really no surprise why. While the dining certainly errs towards the higher-end of the spectrum, the wine list spans the gamut of styles and regions, with offerings beyond the standard go-to regions.

Expect lengthy offerings from South Africa and Australia as well as Spain, Portugal and beyond. The Modern’s list comprises over 3,000 selections, and spans a monumental 177 pages, with a solid number of bottles clocking in under $100.

Ten additional Manhattan restaurant wine lists to explore:

Crown Shy – 70 Pine St. New York, NY 10005

Daniel – 60 E 65th St, New York, NY 10065

Eleven Madison Park – 11 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10010

Eli's Table – 1413 3rd Ave, New York, NY 10028

Le Bernardin – 155 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019

Nice Matin – 201 W 79th St, New York, NY 10024

Noreetuh – 128 1st Ave., New York, NY 10009

Pinch Chinese – 177 Prince St, New York, NY 10012

Roscioli NYC – 43 MacDougal St, New York, NY 10012

The Noortwyck – 289 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014

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What comes to mind when you think of Mexican food? I’m pretty sure it’s not the jericalla (a custard-based dessert from Guadalajara with woodruff, apple, mead and wood ants) I had at the Michelin-starred Kol in London (with an 1867 Madeira; yes, the pairings are startling there, too). Nor perhaps the burritos and enchiladas you might find at a branch of Taco Bell, which is more Tex-Mex, as opposed to the kind of modern Mexican food you find in Mexico City, Oaxaca and London these days.

Mexican food has come on in leaps and bounds in the last 10-15 years, but it’s not so widespread outside the country that the habit of drinking wine has grown up around it. Even though Mexico has its own wine industry, it’s far more common to drink beer, cocktails such as margaritas and soft drinks such as agua fresca than wine with Mexican food.

Even restaurants that would like to showcase Mexican wines are deterred by the cost. ‘There are some really good wines from Baja California, but the import taxes make them expensive,’ says Natalie Diaz-Fuentes, co-founder of Santo Remedio, which has three branches in London. ‘If you put them on the list, they’re just not going to sell.’ They do, however, stock three wines from leading Mexican estate LA Cetto – the Chardonnay in particular consistently goes well with their food.

Bright and zingy

Although much of the Mexican food that you’re likely to come across will feature bright, zingy notes of lime and coriander, the key ingredients – the ones that give the cuisine its character – are corn and chillies. The former is relatively straightforward – it’s the toppings rather than the corn-based bases that tend to dictate the match, though the Chardonnay-friendly taste of corn is always present in the background.

Chillies, of which there are an estimated 150 types in Mexico, are far more complex. ‘Mexican cuisine is an umbrella for enormously varied and variegated regional dishes,’ says Tony Gopal, head sommelier at Kol. ‘To use chilli as a microcosm, dried pasilla mixe is vastly different to fresh habanero; the smoky, dried-fruit flavours of mole poblano require a completely different pairing approach to the fresh, green heat you would find in an aguachile [a raw seafood dish with lime juice, chillies and coriander] on the beach in Sinaloa.’

You witness that in mole, the most common iteration of which is mole negro – a dark, spicy, chocolate-spiked sauce that traditionally accompanies chicken. In Oaxaca, which is referred to as ‘the land of seven moles’, you can find red, green and yellow moles, all of which suggest a different pairing from the bold reds that would accompany the classic version.

Balance the heat

Even if they’re not excessively hot, chillies are omnipresent, even in a fine-dining venue such as Kol. ‘That makes phenolic ripeness important,’ stresses Gopal. ‘Any sort of bitterness in wine is simultaneously accentuated by and accentuates chilli heat. For whites, you want no poorly integrated oak or excessive greenness; for reds, light extraction and low tannin, or appropriate maturity in inherently tannic varieties.’

Luis Sánchez, the sommelier at Michelin one-star Rosetta in Mexico City, agrees: ‘A wine with too much tannin, for example, can intensify the heat and create a harsh sensation,’ he says. ‘The ideal is to look for harmony in fresh wines with good acidity, which complement and highlight the dishes without overpowering them.’

Rosetta’s chef Elena Reygadas, who was declared The World’s Best Female Chef 2023 by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, also favours low intervention and skin-contact wines – especially with spicier dishes and pipianes (moles made with ground seeds). When I was in Mexico City last autumn, I found they worked well, too.

Another challenging dish (although it originated in Peru rather than Mexico) is ceviche – generally better, I find, with aromatic whites than citrussy ones, which the marinade tends to cancel out. But it’s typically served with other small plates so, as with other ethnic cuisines, it’s mainly about finding a wine that suits the overall style of the food.

Five Mexican food & wine pairings to please

1. Corn with Chardonnay

Mexican food is rich in corn – corn-based dishes include tamales, tostadas and tacos – which Chardonnay loves.

2. Ceviche with Friulano

Aromatic whites complement rather than cancel the citrussy character of ceviche marinades. Torrontés is another good option.

3. Fish tacos with Sauvignon Blanc

Think of it as the Mexican equivalent of fish and chips.

4. Mole negro with Zinfandel

You need ripe fruit with the dark, chocolatey flavour of a classic mole.

5. Birria with New World Cabernet

This rich, spicy stew works really well with a well-structured Cab. A GSM blend would work, too.

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In addition to copious bike paths, cobblestone streets and thriving green areas, vibrant gastronomy has gained serious traction in Copenhagen over the past few decades, and the proof can be found in nearly every corner of the city.

Although globally revered for its high-end dining scene, the true joys of the city’s unique flavours are often best enjoyed in small, convivial spaces that beautifully embody the hygge – the Danish word for contentment and cosiness – state of mind, especially when paired with a delicious bottle of wine.

Whether passionate about natural wine or looking to stick with the classics, one thing’s for sure: there’s a bottle of wine for every type of enthusiast just waiting to be popped in Copenhagen – it’s just a matter of knowing where to look.

Best Copenhagen wine bars & restaurants: 13 to try

Apéro

Situated in a 290-year-old red house on the corner of Møntergade and Gammel Mønt, Apéro provides a calm reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Copenhagen’s bustling shopping district. The menu is centered around shareable small plates and classically focused wine list, with extensive by-the-glass options also available. Spearheaded by the same owners and chef as the city’s famed Møntergade restaurant, Apéro takes more of a global approach to its cuisine than its Danish-focused older sibling, offering a cosier ambiance and all-around warmer vibe (the small upstairs sitting area feels like walking into a Scandinavian living room). Grab a glass – or bottle – of Champagne, and don’t miss the stuffed morel mushroom with scallop, zander, sesame and vadouvan sauce. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Gammel Mønt 41, 1117 Copenhagen

Auren’s Deli

Located in Copenhagen’s Frederiksberg neighbourhood, Auren’s Deli is a lively wine bar, delicatessen and small grocery shop space offering farm-to-table products from its eponymous Kirke Hyllinge-based farm. The shop sells an array of organic produce, cheese, charcuterie and dried goods, and by night, becomes a jovial wine bar focused on small sharing plates and natural wines. Guests are encouraged to peruse the fridge and shelves themselves to view the ever-changing selection of bottles, with by-the-glass options and a handful of beers, ciders and hot drinks also available. In the words of Auren’s, the spot highlights ‘familiar and uncommon ingredients that encourage conversation and creativity’. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Godthåbsvej 35, st. Th, 2000 Frederiksberg

Bar Vivant

Known for its warm hospitality and affordable by-the-glass pours, Bar Vivant has become a go-to favourite for neighborhood locals and visitors alike. Tucked away in Nørrebro, the wine bar / bottle shop hybrid is overseen by Andreas Christiansen and Mads Larvåg Mørch, two Norwegian natives passionate about natural, low-intervention wines. The bar’s small yet tasty menu highlights local breads and tinned fish, with wine selections sourced from all across Europe. Enjoy a glass (or few) in the bar’s cheerful ambiance – and if you happen to be in town for the shop’s monthly wine quiz night, all the better.

Address: Elmegade 4, 2200 Copenhagen

Bobe

If refreshing wine and belly-warming food served in a spacious-yet-cosy ambiance – massive fireplace included – is up your street, then a trip to Bobe is simply unmissable. Located in a historic house originally constructed in 1731, the restaurant’s kitchen is run by chef Bo Bech, a Denmark native with over 30 years of culinary experience, and highlights contemporary plates produced from locally sourced ingredients. Vegetarians will take delight in the spot’s grilled Brussels sprouts with capers and pistachios and baked celeriac with mustard sauce, as well as ricotta gnocchi with sorrel, and more. Bobe’s wine list highlights a variety of sustainable, organic and natural producers, and from our experience, there’s really no better way to end a long day exploring the city than with a chilled glass of red by the fire. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Gråbrødretorv 11, 1154 Copenhagen K

Frank

Secure a table at this boutique dining spot in the inner city, known for its excellent wine programme and an ever-changing menu that celebrates the seasons. Guests won’t find a signature dish or a concrete concept behind the food, but that’s because Frank makes whatever it feels like, as long as it’s delicious. In terms of the wine offering, there’s something for everyone: everything the team likes goes on the list, no matter the region, grape variety or winemaking style. Go to appreciate the list’s great vintage depth and spot a few rare finds along the way.

Address: Ny Adelgade 3, 1104 Copenhagen K

Reviewed by Marisa Finetti 

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Translating to the Meatpacking District’s Fish Bar, Kødbyens Fiskebar is an energetic, seafood-focused restaurant set in an industrial, open-concept space. Known for its award-winning food and globally curated wine list, the restaurant focuses on sustainable ingredients and easy-drinking wines, perfect for enjoying on the spot’s expansive terrace on warmer weather days. Menu highlights include Limfjorden blue mussels steamed in apple cider with herbs and double cream, as well as fresh cod sourced locally from the North Sea. Around 15 by-the-glass options are offered in sparkling, white, orange, red and sweet options – recent picks highlighted Jérôme Arnoux (Jura, France), Wagner von Wohlgemuthheim (Mosel, Germany), and a custom Grüner Veltliner made in partnership with Fred Loimer (Austria). Reservations recommended.

Address: Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 Copenhagen

Møntergade

There’s no better place for classically-styled Danish food – or a longer, Bible-like wine list – in Copenhagen then at Møntergade. Known for its signature open-faced sandwiches and Schnapps starter pours that pack a serious punch, this traditional restaurant honours classic Danish heritage with its expansive herring preparations and various cold seafood offerings, along with beef tartares, fried fish and more. The impressive wine and aquavit selections span a substantial 54-page list. Do as the locals do and head for a long, wine-heavy Sunday lunch – though be sure to have zero plans after, as a nap will be well in order. Reservations highly recommended.

Address: Møntergade 19, 1120 Copenhagen

Omegn & Venner

No visit to Copenhagen is complete without a trip to the city’s animated Torvehallerne food market, including a pit stop at Omegn & Venner. Conveniently located within the market itself, this casual wine bar / food counter serves up flavour-packed small plates – think vegetable tarts, terrines and freshly shucked oysters – and palate-cleansing glasses of wine sourced from across Europe. Rotating daily specials can be found on the hanging chalkboard to the bar’s left, with the majority of meats, dairy products and breads sourced from small Danish and Nordic producers. Discover your favourite local meats and cheeses on site, wash them down with a glass or few of low-intervention wine, then order a serving at the counter to take with you. Walk-ins welcome.

Address: Inside Torvehallerne: Rømersgade 18, Hal 1, E2, 1362 Copenhagen

Pompette

A no-frills natural wine bar located in trendy Nørrebro neighbourhood stands by the idea that it is the final step in the wine producer’s journey and therefore, commits to pay respect and honour the craft. Pompette, which means ‘tipsy’ in French, keeps quality natural wines at prices that entice another glass or two. When hunger strikes, choose from a variety of snacks, including cheeses and charcuterie.

Address: Møllegade 3, 2200 Copenhagen N

Reviewed by MF

Safari

Offering a mixture of classic and natural styles and highlighting the owner’s personal favourites, the wine list at Safari leans towards selections from Europe. A dozen bar seats invite a sit-down opportunity to grab a glass or bottle. If you’re looking to dine, find an intimate spot to sample a range of dishes, such as beef tartare with hazelnuts and pecorino, or try the kitchen’s selection of tasting menus.

Address: Baggesensgade 9, 2200 Copenhagen N

Reviewed by MF

Silberbauers Bistro

French food may not be at the top of your list when heading to Copenhagen, though Silberbauers Bistro promises to change your mind. Deemed one of the best wine lists in the city, the restaurant’s French-forward bottle selection pairs perfectly with meticulously executed plates centered around classic, fish-heavy bistro favourites. Think pissaladière, mussels and more. A robust by-the-glass selection is also offered, and the vibe of the place is much more casual than fine dining – which may come as a surprise as the kitchen is spearheaded by Mathias Silberbauer who earned a Michelin star for Pure & V in Nice. Note: The menu changes daily and can be found on the restaurant’s portable blackboard. Reservations recommended.

Address: Jægersborggade 40, 2200 Copenhagen

Ved Stranden 10

Located near Christiansborg Palace, this wine shop and bar offers an impressive selection of European wines with an emphasis on Austria. A homey and comfortable spot clearly illustrates the concept of hygge with options to sit at the bar, backed by vintage tea shop cabinetry, or relax at a coffee table in one of the small living rooms with a viewing window to one of the city’s famed areas. There is no wine list at Ved Standen 10, which helps to promote conversation. Ask, taste, discover and enjoy with charcuterie, cheeses and the famous croque monsieur.

Address: Ved Stranden 10, 1061 Copenhagen K

Reviewed by MF

Vintro

For those looking for bottles to enjoy in hotels, Air B&Bs, or simply to take home, Vintro is one of Copenhagen’s most personality-forward wine shops. Located in the buzzy Nørrebro neighbourhood, this natural-focused store highlights small producers and low-intervention wines, with an emphasis on indigenous grape varieties and off-the-beaten-path regions of Europe. The shop’s eclectic selection and friendly team promise to lead you to exactly what you’re looking for – or better yet, open your mind to something new, should you be open to exploring. The team at Vintro visits its wine producers regularly, meaning each selection is carefully vetted prior to being added to the shelves. Insider info: ‘vin tro’ means ‘wine faith’ in Danish.

Address: Ravnsborggade 5, 2200 Copenhagen

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Nestled in a picturesque valley framed by the Topatopa Mountains, Ojai (pronounced ‘OH-hi’) derives its name from the Chumash word ’Awha’y, meaning ‘moon.’ Just 90 minutes north of Los Angeles and southeast of Santa Barbara County’s wine country, this small yet vibrant town on Chumash land offers wine, food, art and nature, perfect for filling a weekend getaway.

Grape-growing in the Ojai region dates back over 150 years to the arrival of Italian immigrants and Spanish missionaries. However, modern winemaking in Ojai took root in the early 1980s with Adam Tolmach, who founded The Ojai Vineyard.

Tolmach initially co-founded the iconic Au Bon Climat alongside Jim Clendenen. After parting ways with Clendenen in the early 1990s, Tolmach returned to his roots in Ojai, where he dedicated himself to crafting wines that have since put the region on the map.

Unlike other mountain ranges in the Americas that run north and south, the local mountains are part of the unique Western Transverse Range, an east-west-oriented formation that draws cool ocean air from the Pacific. This rare geography creates a Mediterranean climate further inland – warm days, cool nights and a gentle coastal influence – ideal for grape-growing and Ojai’s flourishing agriculture.

The centre of it all: The town of Ojai

The town of Ojai is quaint and local-focused with its strict prohibition of chain stores, allowing local storefronts to thrive. With the popularity of the destination for out-of-towners, the culinary scene is robust.

Ojai is known for its organic and sustainable farming, as well as its strong local artist community with numerous galleries and studios. The town has a focus on spirituality, offering a variety of retreats and wellness centres. Its natural hot springs have long been valued for their healing properties. The culinary scene is robust now that out-of-towners dominate local tourism.

Thursday

Check into the Ojai Valley Inn for the weekend. Tucked within the Topatopa Mountains, the 100-year-old property redefines luxury. Located on 90 sprawling hectares, the resort balances relaxed and luxe amenities with a reverence for the unspoiled natural beauty of the region that embodies the authentic spirit of Ojai. Ojai Valley Inn offers championship-calibre golf, world-class dining, spa, wellness pursuits and kid-friendly activities.

Relax in your suite with unrivalled mountain views before dinner at Olivella onsite, a fine-dining restaurant focusing on seasonal and local produce with valley-to-table dining. California cuisine with Italian influence includes signature dishes such as kabocha squash caramelle, Petrossian Royal Ossetra caviar with stracciatella pannacotta, plus a ‘milk and honey’ dessert featuring local Brokaw Ranch kiwi and honey from the onsite apiary. Wine pairings feature local producers and wines from classic regions of the world.

Friday

Morning

A visit to Ojai would not be complete without coffee and fresh pastries at The Dutchess in downtown Ojai, a mile from the Ojai Valley Inn. Bustling from open to close, The Dutchess features classic French baked goods, coffee from locally roasted beans and a popular weekend brunch. Come dinnertime the menu is full of dishes with Burmese-California flavours. Highlights include the lamb masala and tea leaf salad.

With a full belly, head up the windy, narrow roads of Sulphur Mountain for a private wine tasting at Ojai Mountain Estate, close to 3,000 feet (915 metres) above sea level and above the fog line, where on a clear day, you can see the Pacific and Catalina Island. With a focus on Syrah and other Rhône varieties, this high-elevation vineyard is biodynamically farmed. The tight selection of wines is intense in colour with immense fruit concentration.

Lunch

Return to the Ojai Valley Inn for a late lunch and treatment at the 31,000-square-foot luxury Spa Ojai, offering two pools, a fully-equipped gym, workout classes, a boutique and a spa café. Treatment highlights include the Pure Radiance Facial, Sound Energy Therapy, and a private Kuyam clay ritual.

Afternoon

Don’t miss Ojai’s famous ‘pink moment’ at dusk, which is visible from many locations on the property. The fading sun emits an alpenglow of reddish and pink colours across the Topatopa Mountains. Typically, one looks west at the setting sun, but here, you look east and see the sunset colours reflecting on the mountains. This is one of only a handful of places in the world where a ‘pink moment’ happens.

Evening

For dinner, head downtown to Izakaya Full Moon for fresh sushi, ramen and izakaya dishes. No reservations, and it’s a popular spot, so arrive early to avoid a lengthy wait.

Saturday

Morning

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the resort. Options include Libbey’s Market for something quick or to-go without sacrificing quality. All bread and pastries are made fresh onsite, including their not-to-miss riff on Pop-Tarts with a homemade Frosted Brown Sugar Cinnamon toaster pastry. The Oak offers a full breakfast menu, including challah french toast and the local ‘pink moment’ kombucha made with ginger, hibiscus, and orange zest. After breakfast, embark on a guided walk through the sprawling Ojai Valley Inn property, touring the gardens and other landmarks while enjoying the mountain vistas.

Lunch

For a casual lunch, head back downtown to the ever-popular Ojai Rôtie for French-Lebanese rotisserie chicken. Popular choices include roasted chicken, fresh-baked sourdough and endless sides, including the crowd-pleaser ‘dippity dips’, a trio of Mediterranean dips served with grilled manouche flatbread. Don’t miss the ‘Wine Box’ on the patio, serving both local and French wines.

Afternoon

After filling up at lunch, head just outside downtown for a ‘secret garden’ style wine tasting with Walson Holland. The wines are made by Benjamin Holland, who honed his skills at Amisfield in the Central Otago and Kosta Browne and Sine Qua Non in California. Holland leads most tastings, which feature the Mélange Blanc and Rouge wines, featuring both estate-grown and locally sourced Rhône varieties. Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay and Pinot Noir bottlings round out the thoughtful offering.

Evening

Dinner tonight downtown at Rory’s Place, run by sisters Rory and Meave McAuliffe. A trendy eatery with an extensive natural wine list that frames the menu. Highlights include local Channel Islands uni, tinned fish with Ritz crackers and dishes made with endless local produce.

Sunday

For your last breakfast stop before wine tasting, base up at Farmer and The Cook, a spot that is as Ojai as it gets. Think adaptogenic drinks, a coffee bar and raw vegan Mexican food, including a stellar ‘huarache’, named after a sandal, featuring a thick handmade corn tortilla with grilled potatoes, onions, peppers and salsa roja.

Before heading out of town, it’s one last wine tasting at The Ojai Vineyard, the aforementioned place that put Ojai wine on the map. The simple yet stunning tasting room features a large glass room holding the library wines of the over-40-year-old local winery. Adam Tolmach, founder, always had an affinity for Rhône varieties, and the winery now makes more than two dozen different wines. Something for everyone, as they say. Taste in the sleek tasting room with the library wine room as your backdrop or on the more casual outdoor patio.

Time for a final jaunt through downtown Ojai for last-minute souvenir shopping. With their no-chain policy, something unique might strike your fancy. Not the souvenir type? A stop at Bart’s Books might be the answer. The self-proclaimed largest outdoor bookstore in the world opened in 1964, Bart’s Books is as unique as they come. Most of the books in its 130,000 collection are used, rare and out-of-print. Soon enough, you’ll leave the calm oasis of Ojai for the requisite traffic of southern California.

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In February 2024, Adejoké Bakare became the first black woman in the UK to be awarded a Michelin star – for Chishuru, her restaurant reimagining Nigerian and Ghanaian dishes. Now in new central London digs, Chishuru joins the rise of modern West African cuisine in the capital, alongside two-star Ikoyi, which has evolved beyond its West African roots; Akoko, also awarded a star last February; and its casual offshoot Akara. Across the Atlantic, New York City’s Tatiana is drawing acclaim for contemporary riffs on Nigerian flavours, while in Paris, Michelin one-star MoSuke blends French, Malian, Senegalese and Japanese influences.

West African cuisine is centred around vermillion-hued sauces made from tomatoes and peppers, along with ingredients crafted from non wheat flours such as those made from sorghum, lentils, rice, yam, cassava and beans. Umami depth comes from ogiri, a fermented flavouring made from castor beans or gourd, sesame or egusi seeds, while spices such as ehuru (also known as calabash nutmeg) and uda seed lend distinctive aromatic notes. All of these factors must be considered when pairing wines.

‘What we’re looking for in all our wines is aromatic intensity and attack, but without weight,’ says Matt Paice, Bakare’s business partner and wine selector at Chishuru. The all-French wine list leans towards certain styles. ‘We keep coming back to the Loire and the Jura,’ Paice says, ‘[prioritising] cooler-climate, higher-altitude wines that have that intensity, but will also play off the food.’

To pair with a lunch special of turbot head with imoyo sauce – made from scotch bonnet and tomato – Paice pours me a glass of Fleurie. The dish also comes with the turbot’s collars, deep fried and dressed in yaji (a ground seasoning of peanut, scotch bonnet and more) and citrus mayo, so Paice also brings me an Aligoté from the St-Aubin-based producer Maison En Belle Lies. ‘This will be a good one to think about funky flavours,’ he says, pointing to the wine’s flinty, saline character.

As a general rule, Paice recommends thinking about the way in which heat is used to structure food, the prevalence of peppers and the distinctive spicing. ‘The aromatic attack has got to be there, because it’s playing with that sort of spicing,’ he says.

A broad cuisine

Across the Channel at MoSuke in Paris, head sommelier Samuel Baudet is also guided by the quest for balance. ‘It’s a delicate approach,’ he says. ‘We respect and embrace the spices and powerful flavours of West African cuisine.’ After tasting chef Mory Sacko’s dishes, he searches for the ideal pairing. ‘The important thing is to taste the spices and condiments on their own to find out which flavour you can rely on,’ he explains.

But is there a particular style of wine that works best? There are certain red grapes that give off spicier aromas, such as Syrah, which contains rotundone, a flavour compound that lends a black pepper character. According to Baudet, it’s important to remember that ‘it’s a very broad cuisine and all the wines have their place’. He feels, however, that: ‘Wines with a slight oxidation or orange wines are best suited to this cuisine. These are wines that, like the food, have a wide range of flavours: notes of nuts or citrus fruits, a slight freshness and just enough structure on the palate not to take over.’

While Chishuru’s clientele makes it impossible to fill the list with skin-contact wines, Paice has selected Pierre Frick’s Macération Pinot Gris (2021, £37.35 Sip Wines) for the wine flight, which he pairs with Bakare’s take on gizdodo, featuring ox tongue, red pepper and anchovy dressing. ‘What I’m really trying to do with all the wines is find those that are packed with character, but aren’t so heavy-handed as to interfere,’ he explains. Baudet agrees. ‘The aim is not to distort it,’ he says, ‘but to bring it out as much as possible.’

Star pairings for West African foods

Champagne with akara

Champagne loves fried food, so it works well with these bean fritters. At Akara, try the crab kulikuli akara with Devaux, Coeur des Bars Blanc de Noirs NV (£44.95-£51.95 Champagne One, Palmers Wine Store, Ripponden Wine Co, Shelved Wine).

Gaillac white with pepper soup

Wines with salinity and oxidation are ideal for this aromatic fish soup. At MoSuke, Domaine de la Petite Tuile’s Les Jours is paired with a concentrated but delicate version, bringing out the iodine in the fish and the soup’s complex flavours.

Loire Chenin Blanc with sinasir

The fermented rice pancakes, often paired with a vegetable-based sauce, are complemented by Chenin’s generous fruit and sapid minerality. Chishuru uses a Savennières from Clément Baraut, Le Coteau de L’Ayre 2022 (£80 on the restaurant list), which pairs well with its sinasir topped with heirloom cherry tomatoes and a clementine-chilli dressing.

Cru Beaujolais with banga

Perfume, red fruits and enough tannin to handle this peppery fish stew with aromatic depth, such as at Chishuru, where Domaine Chamonard’s Fleurie (for example, La Madone 2020, £35.25-£37.20 Cave Bristol, Sip Wines, The Whisky Exchange) is served with its version, which features a green crab sauce.

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Peking duck: what’s the authentic way to enjoy it?

As one of the best-known Chinese dishes, Peking duck was once an imperial cuisine dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644).

Roasted duck, with its crispy, golden-brown skin and rich fat, is the heart and soul of this iconic dish. It is commonly served with wafer-thin pancakes, shredded cucumber and green onions. For condiments, hoisin sauce and, indeed, sugar.

If you are enjoying Peking duck in an authentic Chinese restaurant, the chef will skillfully slice the piping hot duck in front of you – giving you ample time for photos – and place the well-browned skins and juicy meat, sometimes separately (and arranged meticulously) in a single layer on a plate.

The traditional way is to dip the golden, fatty skin in sugar and enjoy the sweet and crunchy texture on its own first. Once happy with that, take a few slices of the skin, meat and vegetables (but not too much), add a dab of hoisin sauce, wrap them up with the pancake, and now – take a generous bite.

The succulent flavours of the juicy duck, the sweet and umami-rich sauce, and the freshness from the greens are gift-wrapped in a thin layer of dough – a satisfying mouthful guaranteed.

Is Pinot Noir the only answer for pairing?

If you ask a wine professional what to pair with Peking duck, Pinot Noir is almost always the default answer – for its delicate fruit, fine tannins, and medium body.

Indeed, if we were pairing wines with roasted duck alone, the task would be relatively straightforward. A Burgundian Pinot Noir, a peppery Syrah, a rosé Champagne or an oaked Chardonnay, all with fresh acidity to balance the richness and cut through the grease, would work beautifully.

Also read: Non-vintage rosé Champagne – Panel tasting results

However, with Peking duck, the equation changes. If you were to set aside the hoisin sauce and sugar, these classic choices are still perfectly valid. But once the condiments come into play, a more nuanced approach is needed.

‘Despite its popularity, I don’t believe in pairing Pinot Noir with Peking duck,’ says Jennifer Docherty MW, the first ethnically Chinese and Mandarin speaking MW.

The Hong Kong-based expert added that Pinot Noir is quite linear and thus doesn’t necessarily hold up to the greasy and rich mouthfeel.

Spätlese Riesling, instead, is Docherty’s top choice. ‘Nice acidity with more residual sugar should go perfectly with the duck and the sauce.’

In the realm of red wines, Docherty suggests a ripe Clare Valley Shiraz or a ‘nicely balanced’ Crozes-Hermitage Syrah – fine tannins and non-assertive acidity are key.

How about Chinese wines?

A sweet, juicy Chinese Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, or Malbec (avoiding the more robust, oaky, and tannic options) from sun-baked wine regions such as Ningxia and Xinjiang could pair nicely with the plummy hoisin sauce.

Marselan is a rather topical option if it’s on the wine list – the French crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache is considered by many to be the next ‘signature’ grape of Chinese wines. Again, opt for the less oaky, more fruity bottles.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try a bottle of Chinese icewine – especially those from Huanren in Liaoning province, Northeast China.

Produced in considerable quantities but rarely exported, these precious nectars tend to have a complex, rich flavour profile and brilliant elegance. When properly chilled, they’ll melt the greasiness and elevate the entire experience.

*Read more about Chinese wines in Decanter’s 2024 China supplement.

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A dram of Scotch whisky may be the traditional choice for a Burns supper, but there are plenty of options for pairing wines with haggis, the meal’s focal point.

If choosing wines to match with haggis, look to fruit-driven, medium-bodied red wines, or white wines that have refreshing acidity but also enough weight to stand up to the fattiness and flavours.

Food and wine pairing is highly subjective, though, and experimenting can be part of the fun.

Six wine styles to drink with haggis on Burns Night 2025

• Syrah / Shiraz
• Shiraz-Grenache blends
• Riesling
• Grenache Blanc
• Pinot Noir
• Gamay 

Haggis on Burns Night

It’s common for dinner guests to stand as the haggis is carried into the room on a silver platter, accompanied by a piper, the chef and the person who will recite Robert Burns’ poem, ‘Address to a Haggis’.

Made well, and from a quality source, haggis offers a rich combination of meaty flavours with peppery and herby characters, as well as bit of spice. If you’re unsure about where to find it, try your local butcher.

That said, US food safety officials banned haggis imports in 1971 over the traditional inclusion of sheep’s lung.

Haggis maker Macsween of Edinburgh has been working to slightly adapt the recipe to create a ‘compliant version’ for the US, reported the UK’s Telegraph newspaper this week. It’s still in the testing phase, though.

It’s also possible to find or make vegetarian versions of haggis.

Pairing red wine with haggis

Fruit-driven red wines with good acidity are likely to be a better bet with haggis than those with heavily pronounced tannins or oak, which could overpower the flavours of the dish.

‘I’m always surprised at how peppery haggis is – not spicy, but peppery,’ said Tina Gellie, Decanter’s head of content.

‘And of course it is also dense, rich and meaty. As most people do on Burns Night, I have always paired my haggis, neeps and tatties with whisk(e)y, but if I were to choose a wine, I’d probably go for a juicy, fruit-driven red, where the tannins wouldn’t compete too much.’

Gellie suggested ‘maybe a cru Beaujolais, a Carignan or a Shiraz-Grenache blend’.

Arnaud Demas, group general manager at Galvin Restaurants in London, including Michelin-starred Galvin La Chapelle, told Decanter, ‘For a rustic dish like haggis, we recommend pairing it with a Syrah or Pinot Noir—wines that are rich in fruit and easy to drink.’

Demas, who is also an ex-head sommelier, added, ‘The key is to choose a wine with depth and fruit-forward character to balance the dish’s rustic nature. Medium to full-bodied Pinot Noirs are ideal, [but] avoiding anything too light.’

For specific matches, Demas highlighted the fruity and spiced profile of a Côtes du Rhône by producer Paul Jaboulet Aîné.

He also suggested Domaine Philippe Livera’s Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Champs’ – describing it as a relatively full-bodied Burgundian Pinot Noir bringing ‘meaty complexity and soft tannins that perfectly complements the dish’.

German Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) with vegetarian haggis

Natalie Earl, Decanter Regional Editor for France (excluding Bordeaux), said she would enjoy vegetarian haggis with a German Spätburgunder.

‘Both have an earthy, savoury character, and the Spätburgunder is light enough not to make the whole combination too rich,’ she said.

Pairing white wines with haggis

If you’re looking for white wines to pair with haggis, refreshing acidity can still help to lift the dish but think about a trying a style with enough richness to stand up to the flavours.

Demas at Galvin Restaurants advised, ‘For white wines, avoid anything too dry or overly sweet. Instead, opt for a wine with a hint of fruitiness, such as a German Riesling or a [white] Grenache with subtle oxidation.’

Other options could include riper styles of Viognier, as well as Chardonnays with a touch of oak or creamy texture from malolactic fermentation.

Alternatively, experimenting with lesser-known styles, and trying out different combinations, is all part of the fun when it comes to wine and food pairing.

See more recent wine reviews by Decanter experts below.

If you’re planning to stick to spirits, here is our guide to 10 of the best Scotch whiskies to try on Burns Night.

Wines to drink with haggis for Burns Night 2025: Recent reviews by our experts

Recent reviews of wines at different price tiers by Decanter experts. The first two wines were among top-scorers in Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2024 feature.

This article has been republished from Decanter’s archive, with updated links and commentary in January 2025. 

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I’m sitting in Rovi in London, one of Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurants, with a selection of small plates. The ingredients read almost like a gastronomic dictionary, a multi-textured, multicoloured assault on the senses. There’s vivid coal-roasted beetroot with dried shiso leaf of an almost iridescent pink, many-hued pickles, celeriac shawarma with bkeila and fermented tomato.

Ottolenghi has probably done more than any other individual to change the way we think of vegetarian and vegan food – who doesn’t have one of his books on their bookshelf? But his innovative dishes, with their spices, pickles and ferments, may be harder to match with wine than the hearty, bean-rich vegetarian fare of the 1970s.

Although she has customers who favour classic wines such as Chardonnay, Rovi’s manager Jelena Prosevic leans towards aromatic whites, rosés and skin-contact orange wines, many of which would be described as ‘natural’. She impressively brings out a dark rosé with the beetroot, an orange wine with the signature celeriac shawarma and a pét-nat with the pickles.

Most – but not all – vegetable-focused restaurants go down a similar natural-wine route. Sommelier David Havlik of Gauthier Soho, one of the UK’s longest-established vegan restaurants, is among the exceptions. ‘There is an expectation that vegans tend to be particularly keen on funky, natural wines, but in my experience, the opposite is the case,’ he says. ‘People simply want there to be no animals involved; they don’t necessarily want their entire culinary world to go crazy.’

It’s more a question, he continues, of learning to deal with more subtle flavours. ‘Vegan food removes the obvious safety blankets we are all used to, the main one being what we assume is “protein” but is actually fat – the animal fat found in meat and dairy.’

The importance of umami

James Lowe of Lyle’s in Shoreditch, which has always offered a vegetarian option, acknowledges that there’s a challenge. ‘We strive to get the same impact in terms of flavours with vegetables as we do with dishes that contain animal proteins,’ he says. ‘We do things like concentrate juices or reduce water content in vegetables to increase flavour. We ferment vegetables or make misos with them, both methods that always seem to lend themselves well to pairing with both wines and ciders.’

‘A key element in meat-and fish-based dishes is umami, that delicious, satisfying savouriness,’ says Carolyn Martin of Creation, a South African winery that has explored food and wine pairing more systematically than any other producer I can think of. She gets her chefs to play with umami-rich ingredients including tomatoes, mushrooms and seaweeds such as kombu. ‘Drying, fermentation and cooking processes, layering, sauces and marinades also enhance umami.’

Time of year also plays an important part in pairing plant-based dishes, as Nick Hand of the Sri Lankan restaurant Paradise in Soho points out. ‘There is a greater seasonality with vegetables than other ingredients,’ he says. ‘In summer, wines with high acidity and minerality often complement the lightness of seasonal vegetables, while in winter, a more robust wine can add depth.’

According to Josephine Williams, the sommelier at Vanderlyle in Cambridge, many vegetables have a natural sweetness that can jinx a pairing. ‘That’s not to say I gravitate towards wines with residual sugar necessarily, but it does need acknowledging to make sure the sweetness doesn’t throw the pairing out of balance. For me, dry red wines with high levels of drying or chewy tannins seem to clash a little with the sweeter veg, so I tend to opt for wines with a softer structure.’

Innovative restaurant pairings for plant-based dishes

Grilled Hispi cabbage with chestnut & porcini butter with Babylonstoren, Chardonnay, Simonsberg-Paarl, South Africa 2023

Jelena Prosevic, Rovi: ‘Some of our customers look for conventional pairings and this rich Chardonnay works perfectly with these flavours.’

£23.50-£26.95 Cellar Door Wines, Harris & Co, Hedley Wright, K&L, Salusbury Winestore, Vinotopia, Wanderlust Wine. Alcohol 14%

Soy cream and dashi tortellini with black truffle with Domaine Luneau-Papin, Vera Cruz, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Loire, France 2022

David Havlik, Gauthier Soho: ‘We need something to both handle the creaminess and tame the truffles, and the complexity and extensive ageing on the lees in this [biodynamic] wine does exactly that.’

£26.95 AG Wines, Vinvm. Alc 12%

Cashew parfait with Denbies, Demi-Sec, Surrey, England NV

Josephine Williams, Vanderlyle: ‘The parfait is rich and unctuous with a serious savoury character – not unlike a foie gras or liver paté. The touch of sweetness the demi-sec is a nod to a classic foie gras-Sauternes pairing while not jumping in at the deep end of dessert wine.’

£19.95-£23.99 Denbies Wine Estate, Grape Britannia. Alc 12%

Mung bean bobotie with turmeric, coconut and cashew nut custard, sundried tomato salsa with Creation, Syrah-Grenache, Walker Bay, South Africa 2022

Carolyn Martin, Creation Wines: ‘A well-endowed Rhône-style blend with intense flavours of ripe plum, black pepper and tapenade. The wine’s fruity and spicy flavours complement the mung bean bobotie’s nutty, spicy, creamy texture.’

£21.49-£25.90 All About Wine, Corking Wines, Great Wines Direct, Strictly Wine. Alc 14%

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Few dishes evoke the warmth and charm of Italian cuisine quite like lasagne al forno. Originating from the culinary heartland of Emilia-Romagna in northern Italy, this layered masterpiece of pasta, béchamel and minced beef has become a global favourite.

But as indulgent as lasagne may be, its rich and complex flavours can make pairing it with wine a challenge.

The key to success? Choosing wines with good acidity. Acidity cuts through the dish’s layers of creamy béchamel and rich savoury beef, creating balance and enhancing the overall dining experience.

Red wines to try

‘Lasagne tends to be quite rich in flavour, especially with béchamel and minced beef, so a red wine is the perfect companion,’ says Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London.

Longuère suggests opting for a ripe, juicy and fresh style of red wine. ‘Try a Barbera from Italy, a Beaujolais made from Gamay, or an Austrian Zweigelt,’ he advises.

Sommelier and wine consultant Eric Zwiebel MS agrees. He recommends Dolcetto, Barbera, Blaufränkisch, or Gamay as excellent choices. For those who prefer something different or lighter, Zwiebel also suggests considering a rosé wine.

Keep it Italian…

The old adage of ‘what grows together, goes together’certainly rings true for Italian food. So if you’re after regional authenticity, look to wines from northern Italy. Seek out the Sangiovese grape, which is planted across Emilia-Romagna, but is also the dominant variety in neighbouring Tuscany.

Sangiovese is naturally high in acidity, which helps to cut through the richness of a lasagne. ‘Light, high-acid reds will also complement the tomato in the sauce,’ explains Felix Paffard, sommelier at Nipotina, a top Italian restaurant in London.

He recommends Chianti, a classic Italian red from central Tuscany, which is made from Sangiovese. Paffard also suggests Barbaresco and Barolo, which are produced from Nebbiolo, another high-acid Italian grape.

Wines to avoid

While it’s tempting to explore bold and robust reds, it’s important to tread carefully. ‘Avoid wines with too much oakiness,’ warns Longuère, as their overpowering flavours can clash with the dish. Similarly, Zwiebel cautions against red wines with high tannins, which can overwhelm the palate.

At the same time be careful not to choose a red wine that’s too light. Very light styles, such as Italian Lambrusco, won’t hold up to the richness of lasagne. Lighter reds would do no favours for either the wine or the food. The sweet spot lies in finding wines that are fresh and vibrant, but substantial enough to stand alongside the dish’s heharty profile.

White lasagnes

Of course, beef and tomato sauce isn’t the only filling for a lasagne. Creamy white lasagnes featuring ricotta cheese or mushrooms, without tomato sauce, pair beautifully with white wines that have a touch of weight. ‘A lightly oaked Chardonnay would work well here,’ suggests Longuère.

‘Our white lasagne – a variation on the traditional tomato-based lasagne – is a rich, creamy dish, made with porcini mushrooms and Italian sausage,’ says Alessandro Mannello of neighbourhood restaurant The Kitchen at Holmes.

‘For the perfect wine to pair with our white lasagne, I look for notes that complement the earthy, creamy, savoury flavours, and with enough body to stand the pairing,’ continues Mannello. ‘You want low tannin and a good acidity to cut through the richness of the dish,’ he adds.

Mannello recommends Italian Chardonnay from Piedmont if you prefer to drink white wine. ‘Oaked if you want to add extra creamy flavours, while still complementing the dish. Or unoaked if you want more brightness and lighter notes,’ he advises.

‘If you want a red wine, a Pinot Noir could be a great option, a wine which is typically light-bodied and with low tannin. The earthy notes from the wine will also perfectly complement the mushroom in this dish, while the acidity will cut through the richness of the bechamel.’

Vegetarian lasagne

Pairing wines with vegetarian lasagne opens up another spectrum of possibilities, depending on the filling. For more delicate vegetarian versions, try lighter, dry whites. Think food-friendly Italian whites or a fresh unoaked Chardonnay. Their crispness complements the subtler flavours while adding a refreshing contrast.

Whether you’re enjoying a traditional meat lasagne, a white lasagne or a vegetarian twist, the right wine pairing can elevate the experience, creating a harmony that brings out the best in both the food and the wine. So next time you serve this beloved Italian classic, pour a glass of something special and savour the perfect match…

Wines for lasagne: six to try

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The dynamism of Lucca’s wineries has exerted an important influence on the region’s gastronomic scene, such that today, Lucca and its renowned ‘sea extension’ – the Versilia sandy-beach coastal stretch of Viareggio up to Forte dei Marmi – are at the forefront of the Italian culinary panorama. There are 10 Michelin-star restaurants in the area, eight of which are located along a short 12km stretch of coast – a brilliant alignment! – while the other two are Butterfly, on the plain of Lucca, and Giglio, within Lucca’s imposing 4km-long Renaissance city walls.

Nestled in a fertile plain of northern Tuscany, Lucca appears to the traveller like a mirage. An ancient settlement of Etruscan origins, the city gained importance as a Roman colony due to its strategic position in the north of the Italian peninsula. The city stands on the ‘olive border’, which in the past marked the northern edge of Mediterranean civilisation. For the Romans, defending Luca (as it was known in the Roman era) meant defending the empire.

In the Middle Ages, Lucca became a republic and grew prosperous thanks to the production of, and trade in, silk. The historic centre was enriched with palaces and churches. Among the latter, San Martino cathedral and San Frediano basilica are worth a visit.

Following the silk thread, local wine and oil reached the most important European markets. In the 16th century, when the silk trade went into crisis, the noble families of Lucca invested their enormous wealth in the countryside, giving rise to the model of the villa-farm.

Prime location

From the city’s bastions, which today host alleys and gardens, one’s gaze is directed towards the Lucca hills, which are well suited to viticulture. The most prestigious area is Valgiano, located northeast of the city. In the early 2000s, Tenuta di Valgiano turned the spotlight on this corner of Tuscany by focusing on organic farming and minimal-intervention winemaking, and involving other local wineries in LuccaBiodinamica – an initiative set up in 2016 to promote biodynamic methods that now includes 16 members. The winery’s decision to combine native vines, mainly Sangiovese, with international ones – Merlot and Syrah, introduced by the French troops who brought an end to the Republic of Lucca in 1799 – proved to be a winning one: the Tenuta di Valgiano Colline Lucchesi Rosso, a vortex of power and elegance in which these grape varieties are blended, is the manifesto of the small Colline Lucchesi DOC just to the northeast of Pisa.

A tour of the local wineries includes Malgiacca, Macea and Podere Còncori, the latter perched amid the rugged terrain of the Garfagnana region, about 35km north of Lucca city. In the wider Lucca municipal area, Fabbrica di San Martino, Fattoria Sardi and the farm cooperatives Calafata and Pieve Santo Stefano are also worth a visit.

The symbolic dishes of Lucca are garmugia (a spring soup based on vegetables with the addition of bacon), tordelli al ragù (fresh pasta filled with pork and beef, soaked bread, cheese and eggs) and rovellina (breaded and fried slices of beef cooked in a tomato and caper sauce). Among the seafood ingredients, anchovies and cod stand out. Don’t miss tasting the buccellato, a typical sweet bread with anise and raisins.

What time of year should you discover Lucca? Any season is good, but summer, due to the attraction of the nearby beaches and the many events, including the Lucca Summer Festival and the Puccini Festival, is probably the best time.

My top 10 in Lucca

1. Al Tambellini dal 1870

Via di Sant’Alessio, 1403

This restaurant, located in a former post station and horse stable on the outskirts of Lucca, boasts a century and a half of history. Managed by the Tambellini family, it offers the entire recipe book of Lucca tradition, including tordelli, rovellina and potato bread. The cellar includes the best labels from the nearby Colline Lucchesi DOC area. It has a family atmosphere and in the summer you can eat under the porch of the magnificent farmhouse.

2. Enoteca Vanni

Piazza del Salvatore, 7

Every wine lover should make a pilgrimage to this wine shop, which is located in a 13th-century palace. The maze of underground cellars houses more than 50,000 bottles from around the world, including many older vintages. Its special focus on natural wines is continually growing. It is possible to buy a bottle and sip it in the adjacent Dispensa bistro, which offers light lunches and delicious evening aperitifs.

3. Enoteca Vino e Convivio

Via di Coselli 4/6 – Guamo

Don’t be fooled by the surrounding panorama, an artisan area on the outskirts of Lucca dotted with small factories and car dealerships. As soon as you enter this wine shop you will be enveloped in a relaxing atmosphere, while your gaze will be lost among the shelves of bottles reaching up to the ceiling. The selection of labels does not set geographical boundaries, but focuses on natural wines. From the kitchen come dishes and snacks ideal for a quick lunch or an aperitif.

4. Fattoria Sardi

Via della Maulina, 747

This renowned biodynamic winery on the first hills of Lucca recently opened the Ristoro Agricolo restaurant. Chef Damiano Donati, a local celebrity, has opted for a tasting menu formula, which is continuously updated with seasonal products, to reduce food waste. In the winter you dine in the maturation cellar, in summer in the farmyard near the vineyards. It is also possible to enjoy an aperitif accompanied by small tastings.

5. Giglio

Piazza del Giglio, 2

In one of the most enchanting squares in Lucca, within an elegant 18th-century building in front of the municipal theatre, Michelin one-star Giglio is an unmissable stop. Three very talented young chefs – Benedetto Rullo, Lorenzo Stefanini and Stefano Terigi – intelligently revisit the great dishes of traditional Tuscan cuisine, from both land and sea, under the direction of patron Paola Barbieri. A tasting menu for vegetarians is offered, while the wine list includes about 700 labels from all over the world.

6. Gigliola

Corso Garibaldi, 17

Born from an idea of the young chefs of the Giglio restaurant, this gastro-bakery with table service is today a point of reference for locals and tourists alike. In its informal environment you can enjoy biodynamic wines and vermouth by the glass, accompanied by croutons and stuffed focaccias, but also ethnic street food such as pitta with hummus and lamb tacos. The homemade bread is mindblowing. It’s also possible to enjoy some cooked dishes.

7. Gino Frutta & Bistrot

Piazza Santa Maria, 18

Gino Pieri, the son of a fruit and vegetable wholesaler, opened a store in the historic centre of Lucca in 2006. In a short time, the shop became a delicatessen, then a bistro was added in 2017. Today, Gino starts the day by serving breakfast and selling fruit, and ends it with aperitifs. You’ll find stuffed flatbreads and takeaway delicatessen dishes, but also an à la carte menu for lunch at the bistro. The wine list is rich in sparkling and natural wines.

8. Mecenate

Via del Fosso, 94

In the renovated spaces of an old laundry (surviving in the retained original sign) within the city walls, Stefano De Ranieri and Maria Soledad Cardenas will welcome you with their ‘ultra-traditional’ dishes, with raw materials, cheeses and cured meats all sourced from local artisans. The establishment’s garmugia, tordelli, tripe and stewed chicken will leave you breathless. In the summer, the veranda overlooking Piazza San Francesco adds magic to the experience. The wine list features more than 300 labels, some very rare.

9. Osteria di Lammari

Via Lombarda, 143 – Capannori

In the industrious plain of Lucca, this tavern now managed by Cristina Taddeucci and Dino Lera continues to be a meeting point, having first been a refreshment stop for travellers, then a dance hall and even… a petrol station! In the welcoming dining room or at the bar counter enjoy tasty seasonal soups, cod and potato ravioli, or tordelli with meat sauce. The stewed tripe is textbook. There is a summer garden and a wide choice of biodynamic wines.

10. Santa Goccia

Via degli Angeli, 17

Brand new wine shop and bar, a stone’s throw from the San Frediano basilica, run by three young partners. The wine list is abundant and full of curiosities, with a special focus on the biodynamic production of the Lucchesia plains, as well as wines from elsewhere in Italy and abroad. There’s a great choice of spirits, too. To be combined with salumi and cheese platters.

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Here are some wine options to consider if you’re planning to opt for duck or goose this Christmas, drawing on previous advice published on Decanter.com and recommendations from Decanter experts.

Five wine styles to drink with duck or goose this Christmas

• Pinot Noir 
• Barbera
• Rosé Champagne 
• Riesling
• Pinot Gris

Search all Decanter wine reviews here

A great quality roast Christmas duck or goose will give you a richer meat on the dinner table, compared to turkey.

Consider choosing a wine with relatively high acidity to cut through the fat content of the duck or goose, but enough fruit concentration and depth to meet the intensity of the flavour.

Pinot Noir is often named as a classic pairing for duck, although styles vary between producers and locations.

White wines that combine refreshing acidity with richness can be a good pairing for goose.

Think about the intensity of the dish, and any elements of sweetness or acidity delivered by other ingredients. These are some of the core principles of food and wine matching, as explained in this excerpt from The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil.

Ultimately, though, personal preference is a big part of the equation when it comes to food and wine pairing.

Decanter Premium is the ideal last-minute gift for wine lovers!

Wine to drink with roast duck

Medium-bodied reds with a good concentration of bright red fruit and relatively high acidity should generally work well with roast duck.

Pinot Noir is regularly cited as a top choice for duck, although you’ll still find styles that differ in intensity and in their balance of aromas.

Some oak and tannin influence can add depth, but watch out for them overpowering the dish. Tannins should soften over time in the best red wines built to age.

The particular flavours in a sauce or stuffing mix might also affect things.

Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school, previously offered his expert advice on pairing wine with duck cooked in different ways.

He suggested looking to Pinot Gris from Alsace with a classic duck à l’orange. Mencia from Spain’s Galicia region is a great red wine option, he said.

‘[The wine] needs to have enough acidity and a hint of richness to cope with the sauce, yet enough body not to be overwhelmed by the texture of the bird’.

Wine with roast goose

The rich texture and refreshing acidity of some top Riesling styles is worth exploring for goose. See this buying guide to German Riesling for starters.

Some wines have ginger spice notes and slight sweetness, which may work particularly well accompanying a goose roasted with a classic five spice mix.

Decanter’s Tina Gellie also recently praised this Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) wine, noting its off-dry style balanced by brisk acidity.

Italy is a place to look when pairing red wine with goose.

Ronan Sayburn MS, a master sommelier and a Co-Chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards, said, ‘I think a great alternative wine to choose with goose would be a Barbera d’Alba from Piedmont.

‘Goose has dark meat which is full of flavour and a fattiness that Cranberry sauce cuts through well. Barbera is light and juicy with great acidity and fleshy red berry fruit.’ 

Explore Decanter’s Barbera panel tasting from late 2023.

Other red wine options with duck

Fiona Beckett, Decanter contributor and author of Matchingfoodandwine.com, previously recommended Mourvèdre, Barbera or Merlot as wine options with duck, alongside Pinot Noir.

Mourvèdre-dominant wines, like those from Bandol in southern France, ‘can be a sensual partner for duck, especially cooked Provençal style with olives’.

In this recent article on Thanksgiving pairings, Gavin Schmidt, chef-partner at The Morris restaurant in San Francisco, said: ‘Some of our favourite pairings at The Morris for the duck are Northern Rhône Syrah or Loire Cabernet Franc.’

Duck with rosé Champagne

Some rosé Champagnes are produced with a more gastronomic style in mind.

Master sommelier Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS, head of wine for Europe at members’ club 67 Pall Mall, said she would pair Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée Champagne with duck at Christmas.

Larsen-Robert said this wine would match well with roast turkey. She pairs it with duck, however, in a festive nod to her Danish roots.

This article has been updated in December 2024.

Wine reviews: Inspiration for Christmas duck and goose

A selection of wines reviewed by Decanter experts at varying price levels.

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Wine with Christmas turkey

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 See our full guide on matching wine with duck

Eight grape varieties behind delicious wines to pair with roast ham this Christmas:

Red wines with ham

• Gamay
  
• Zinfandel
• Grenache (blends)
• Pinotage
• Shiraz (Syrah)

White wines with ham

• Sémillon
• Viognier
• Gewürztraminer

Decanter Premium is the ideal last-minute gift for wine lovers!

Wines to drink with ham: it’s all about the glaze

When it comes to pairing wines with ham, the one thing you can be sure of is that your ham will be sweet.

No self-respecting Christmas ham comes without some kind of a glaze and that is the main factor to take into account in any wine pairing.

Granted, it makes more of a difference when the ham is served hot than it does once it’s cold.

Leftovers, particularly combined with turkey, will rub along happily with a decent Beaujolais cru or a fresh young village Burgundy; wines that would taste sharp and weedy with the same ham served hot.

Many glazes have an orange or marmalade component that tends to work well with bright, fruity reds like Australian Shiraz from Barossa or McLaren Vale, or a GSM blend; Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre.

If there’s a degree of heat and spice involved, as is the case with glazes or rubs that use mustard, look to the kind of red that can handle spicy food.

Zinfandel immediately comes to mind, or a good Pinotage.

Both of those wines should also be able to handle the slightly smoky taste you get when a ham is cooked in cola, Nigella-Lawson style – even with the treacle glaze.

If your ham coating is slightly less sweet that could bring into play an Amarone, a wine that is too powerful for the turkey I tend to feel.

And many people’s Christmas favourite, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, can be a winner especially if the ham is served alongside the turkey.

A bit of bottle age could be even better, bringing some complexity to the pairing.

Matching white wines with ham

Finally, what about a white wine with ham? It’s trickier than a red, I’d say. Again, you want one that can handle the sweetness of the ham.

A rich Sémillon, such as one from Australia’s Hunter Valley, is the obvious call; think about the classic ham and pineapple combination.

Otherwise, look to full-bodied whites such as Viognier, or old vine Chenin Blanc from the Cape in South Africa. As a wild card, a grand cru Gewürztraminer from Alsace could be a great match.

See Fiona Beckett’s website, MatchingFoodAndWine.com. 

Great wines to drink with ham: Bottles to seek out

All wines featured below have been reviewed by Decanter experts and offer a range of price-points, including top UK high-street picks featured in Decanter’s Festive Wine Guide.

This is an article from Decanter.com’s archive that has been updated in December 2025 with new expert wine reviews.

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From tiny hole-in-the-wall bars to lofty Michelin-starred restaurants, Spain’s gastronomic scene is more dynamic and vibrant than ever. The next generation of restaurateurs, chefs and sommeliers are crafting remarkable wine lists, innovative food-and-wine pairings and unique fusion cuisine. It’s impossible to list every exciting new venue in Spain, but the four restaurants and wine bars below are a snapshot of the people and places worth knowing about.

Albariza en las Venas

Calle Divina Pastora 3, Local 51, Jerez de la Frontera

From the moment winemaker Juan Carlos Vidarte and sommelier Rocío Benito first met during the 2021 harvest at Bodegas Luis Pérez in Jerez, they knew they would work together again. Their latest collaboration is Albariza en las Venas, which opened its doors in May 2024. Named for Sherry country’s famous chalk soils, ‘Albariza in the Veins’ is much more than your average neighbourhood wine bar. ‘We wanted to open a place where our friends could come, and young people weren’t afraid to open a bottle – but also where winemakers in Cádiz could find wines from all over the world,’ Benito says.

There’s a spotlight on local wines. ‘Jerez is in a really great place right now,’ Benito continues. ‘There’s this explosion of new projects, with a lot of winemakers arriving in the area and young people investing in different styles like vinos de pasto [unfortified wines, firmly rooted in Jerez terroir]; we want to give them a platform.’

They also offer selections from countries such as Italy, Greece and Croatia, ‘which up until now were completely unknown here’.

Benito describes the bar as ‘a really casual space’, adding: ‘Both of us like to have fun with wine and we wanted the space to reflect that. The important thing is to have a great time drinking wine, without any pretence.’

Wines are complemented by gildas (skewered olive, anchovy and guindilla pepper), sandwiches and other tapas. A standout combination is the Ibérico pork jowl sandwich paired with a sparkling pét-nat Palomino, another style that has become a darling of Jerezano winemakers recently. Benito recommends Bodega de Forlong’s Burbuja (2021, US$26 PJ Wine), Bodega Vinifícate’s Sparkling Amorro (£23.50 Dvine Cellars) and El Piraña’s Tarbissana.

Okra

Rúa Luís Seoane 11, O Grove, Galicia

Having begun his career in his native Japan, Takahide ‘Taka’ Tanaka first worked with Javier Olleros when the latter was at the celebrated Michelin three-star Basque restaurant Martín Berasategui. When in 2009 Olleros opened his own restaurant, Culler de Pau, Taka spent years in the kitchen as Olleros’ right-hand man, together achieving two Michelin stars. Taka fell in love with O Grove – and with his now-wife Siana, when she arrived at Culler de Pau.

The couple opened Okra in May 2024, just after the birth of their son. ‘We opened Okra so we could all be together,’ Taka explains. The concept is a tavern with attentive service, impeccable food and an informal atmosphere. ‘We offer professional service, but at the same time we want to chat with our guests,’ Taka says.

Visitors can expect Japanese-inflected dishes using Galician ingredients, paired with European wines and Japanese sakes. ‘Very good wines have been made in Galicia for a long time, and now they’re being promoted more in restaurants,’ Taka says, ‘where people are introducing small wineries, native grapes and blends, and offering more daring by-the-glass listings. We want to take a bit of a risk.’

He says the menu changes often: ‘In the short time we’ve been open, we’ve already made quite a few dishes. But if I had to choose one I would say the miso-glazed dengaku aubergine paired with natural wine As Londras MC, a Mencía-based red blend with six months of carbonic maceration, made in Ribeira Sacra. And for the more daring, I would pair the scallop with vegetables in broth with Rihaku Wandering Poet sake.’

La Caníbal

Calle de Argumosa 28, Madrid

Javier Vázquez opened his wine bar in the Madrid neighbourhood of Lavapiés in 2018, to showcase his favourite wines, craft beers and artisan cheeses. He’s since added two sister venues: La Grifería in Madrid Río (just south of the river Manzanares), and the brewery and beer hall La Fábrica, which opened in late 2023, in the San Blas district.

La Caníbal has become a go-to destination for wine lovers. It’s an educational space, too, hosting regular classes and tastings with visiting winemakers. Visitors can enjoy 16 wines on tap or choose from a list of more than 800 Spanish and international labels. Head sommelier Pablo González says their ambition is ‘to promote sincere wines that represent a place, a vintage and a grower’.

There’s a similar approach in the kitchen, with a focus placed on seasonal ingredients from small, artisan producers. ‘Madrid’s gastronomic scene is dynamic and fun,’ González says. ‘Although it might sound a bit presumptuous, we feel that we’re forging a new path, aiming to democratise wine by pouring wines on tap and focusing on smaller winemakers over big, well-known brands.’

Although the wine list and menu change with the seasons, one star-pairing – matching octopus with the Mencía red on tap – has permanent pride of place, reflecting Vázquez’s Galician roots; the bar was going to be called ‘Galicia Caníbal’ after the 1986 hit by Galician pop-rock band Os Resentidos. González also recommends rice with lobster, ‘washed down with some of the small-producer Champagnes that we rotate’.

Mikan

Carrer d’Aribau 158, Barcelona

Friends Dan Jin (known as Tan) and Arthur Holland-Michel started cooking and drinking together about five years ago.

Tan was born in China to a Korean family, and spent much of her life in Japan. ‘She would cook these delicious, soulful meals and I would bring over wines that I was learning about as I drank my way through the fundamentals of European natural wine,’ says Holland-Michel.

‘We realised that Tan’s food paired beautifully with the kinds of wines we were interested in, and thought others might enjoy the combination as much as we did.’

Together with a third partner, Woody Wang, they opened Mikan in April 2023. The space draws inspiration from Japanese wine bars, with a Spanish influence.

They serve small shared plates for dinner and a main dish with four sides for lunch. Holland-Michel describes the approach as ‘lighthearted but precise’, and says they don’t take themselves too seriously. They host a DJ event once a month.

Holland-Michel observes that Barcelona is going through a natural wine boom, but his approach is not dogmatic. ‘Every wine is on the list because we enjoy drinking it – nothing more, nothing less,’ he says.

‘We serve plenty of wines that cater to a more “classic” palate, but they’re not there as a concession. If we can see a way of making them work with the food, we’re delighted to have them.’

Some of the team’s favourite pairings include Iberian pork loin katsu with Didier Grappe’s Pif Purple from the Jura; koji-cured mackerel served with Cuvée Total, a rosé from Catalonian low-intervention producer Oriol Artigas (2020, £45 Dynamic Vines); or the house kimchi with a bottle of Kamara’s Nimbus Ritinitis, an orange retsina Assyrtiko from northern Greece near Thessaloniki.

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The principal aim when pairing cheese and wine is to find an enjoyable match and to avoid clashes between all elements involved.

I can count on my fingers the number of cheese and wine pairings that have taken me to an ethereal level. My favourite was a pairing of Bolney Wine Estate’s Kew Gardens sparkling rosé with a youthful Mont d’Or. The stone fruit and crème fraiche flavours in the cheese brought out the fruit flavours in the wine, and the cheese’s fatty paste was cut beautifully by the bubbles.

When pairing cheese and wine, we are looking mainly at two methods: the complement and the contrast. You can pair cheese to wine or wine to cheese, however the outcome should be the same, where neither dominates the other.

The cheese flavour wheel shows the flavour relationships between different types of cheese from around the world. Use it to understand what styles of cheese you like and to make new discoveries.

Complementing

This involves matching like for like in intensity, structure and flavour. For example, a fresh goat’s curd with its simple, dairy flavours will not match up to a full-bodied, intense Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Pair lighter cheeses with lighter-bodied wines, and bold and powerful cheeses with wines of a similar intensity.

Think about the condiments and accompaniments which work well with cheese and choose wines which host similar flavours within.

For example, Comté pairs well with walnuts and therefore also pairs well with Vin Jaune, which often displays walnut characters. Sheep’s cheeses like Ossau-Iraty and Manchego pair beautifully with almonds, so Amontillado or Palo Cortado Sherry, with their nutty flavours, make a perfect match.

Contrasting

Two of the most iconic pairings for cheese are Stilton with Port and Roquefort with Sauternes.

These pairings both use the contrasting method, whereby the sweetness of Port and Sauternes contrasts with the salty, savoury notes of Stilton and Roquefort.

Mouthfeel is important in pairing too, which is why we enjoy the effervescence of a Champagne or sparkling wine cutting through the rich, fatty paste of a Brillat Savarin.

Spicy blue cheeses pair well with figs and dried fruit, so look for wines which display those characteristics too: try your blues with a Tawny Port or a Pedro Ximénez Sherry.

The perfect cheeseboard pairings

Hard cheese

As cheese ages and matures, it goes through proteolysis (breakdown of protein) and lipolysis (breakdown of fat), which not only affects its texture but also its flavour.

These processes take time and lead to enhanced aroma and flavour development and complexity.

When a cheese is young, these aromas and flavours are locked in, which is why a young cheese may simply taste milky and fruity. Comté on the other hand, which is an aged hard cheese, has an abundance of different flavours, and even has its very own flavour wheel.

You can be more flexible pairing hard cheeses with wine as there is a wider variety of flavours to work with. There are no hard and fast rules so you can experiment with all styles of wine.

These cheeses will have the structure, complexity and acidity to hold up to and complement bolder red wines, but I also love a Champagne and hard cheese combination.

You also cannot go wrong with the classic pairings of Comté with Vin Jaune or Manchego with Amontillado Sherry.

Cheese choices

Traditional Cheddar, Comté, Gruyère, Manchego, Ossau-Iraty, Mimolette, Cantal, Rachel, Pecorino Romano, L’Etivaz

Wine options

Red: Bordeaux blends, Pinot Noir, Chianti, Nebbiolo, Rioja

White: White Burgundy, White Rhône, White Bordeaux, Vin Jaune, Amontillado Sherry, Champagne, Cava

Blue cheese

Blue cheeses are known for being strong, spicy and intense.

With the intense character of cheeses such as Roquefort and Gorgonzola Piccante, the sweet, dulcet tones of a late harvest, botrytised dessert wine form a perfect partnership.

Not all blues are this bold, however, so I like to pair more restrained blues such as Cashel Blue and Fourme d’Ambert with low-tannin red wines.

Cheese choices

Roquefort, Stilton, Stichelton, Fourme d’Ambert, Gorgonzola Piccante, Valdeon, Cashel Blue

Wine options

Red: Pedro Ximenez Sherry, Tawny Port, Madeira, Gamay

White: Sauternes, Monbazillac

Goat and sheep cheese

Goat and sheep milk cheeses in this section refer to the small, individual units we call lactic cheeses, made using a slow, gentle production method relying on a slow acidification.

Textures can be soft, mousse-like and aerated, or firm, dense and toothsome. In flavour, you will typically find a zippy acidity and sometimes some earthy, mushroom flavours.

Dense goat’s cheeses such as Crottin de Chavignol pair well with high acid white wines such as Sancerre and other Sauvignon Blancs.

If you ever find an aged goat’s cheese, such as the outstanding Selles-sur-Cher Confit (aged for around 100 days) matured by the prestigious cheesemonger and Meilleur Ouvrier de France Laurent Dubois in Paris, you will find the most perfect pairing for vintage Champagne.

Cheese choices

Crottin de Chavignol, Pélardon, Charolais, Selles-sur-Cher, Sinodun Hill, St Tola, Dorstone, Eve, Pyghtle

Wine options

Red: Southern Rhône, Spanish rosé, Provence rosé

White: Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre, Albariño, Condrieu, Chenin Blanc

Washed rind cheese

Washed rind cheeses are typically on the more pungent side with meaty, savoury flavours and a long finish. The rind washing process encourages bacteria to develop, giving the cheese its bold flavours.

I am always surprised at their versatility when it comes to pairing, as they work with so many different styles and varieties. For a classic pairing go for a floral, aromatic white such as a Gewürztraminer.

Cheese choices

Époisses, Langres, Edmund Tew, Munster, Taleggio, Mahon, Gubbeen, Mont d’Or, Stinking Bishop, Rollright

Wine options

Red: Red Burgundy, Rioja, Barbera, Gamay

White: Gewürtztraminer, Alsace Pinot Gris, White Burgundy, Champagne

Soft & bloomy cheese

It’s hard to complete a cheeseboard without a cheese from this category. The most famous cheeses of this style are Brie de Meaux and Camembert de Normandie, which happen to be two of my favourite cheeses.

They are, however, my least favourite cheeses for pairing with wine. When pairing cheeses of this style, there are various factors to consider, which are relevant in all cheese pairings, but more pronounced here than elsewhere.

The main factor is ripeness. In youth, a bloomy rind will be firm and chalky at the core and its rind will have simple flavours of white mushrooms. It may also have a touch of bitterness within. In age, the texture breaks down into the glossy custard we know and love. The flavours will be more pronounced, showing mushrooms, brassicas and sometimes a seaside element.

If left too long, when the cheese breaks down too much and the white moulds come to the end of their life cycle, flavours and aromas of ammonia and bitterness may ensue.

Be very mindful of the age profile of your bloomy rind cheese when pairing it with wine, as it can create an unpleasant sensation in the mouth, like orange juice and toothpaste.

I wish I could give a one-size-fits-all pairing for this type of cheese, however even the most classic pairing of Champagne will struggle with bloomy rinds outside of their eating window.

Cheese choices

Brie de Meaux, Camembert de Normandie, Tunworth, La Tur, St Jude, Brillat Savarin, St Felicien, Waterloo

Wine options

Red: Beaujolais, Pinot Noir

White: Chablis, Vouvray, Grüner Veltliner, Champagne

Serving cheese: top tips

As with wine, cheese needs to come up to temperature before being served to allow for all the aroma and flavour nuances to wake up. Take your cheese out of the fridge 45-60 minutes before serving.

Where possible, arrange your cheeseboard in order of style and strength so you do not kill your palate immediately with an intense cheese such as Roquefort.

When it comes to cutting and presenting cheese, the main objective is to make sure that each person eating gets the same amount of rind and paste. Cut one or two portions of each cheese so that guests know how to continue thereafter.

Emma Young is a cheese and wine consultant, author, cheese judge and educator. Her book, The Cheese Wheel, published by Ebury Press, is available here.

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Celebrity chef José Pizarro carefully places his traditional Christmas centrepiece on the table at the Bermondsey home he shares with his psychotherapist husband Peter. You can forget about turkey, though – it’s a whole roasted sea bass stuffed with lemon and bay leaves sitting on saffron-infused potatoes.

And it’s not actually Christmas, of course, but a photoshoot held in October for Decanter’s Christmas food and drink feature. Nor does Pizarro spend Christmas in London, but in the beautiful village of Talaván in Cáceres, Extremadura – in Spain’s rural far west – where he grew up, and to where he returns every year.

It seems we can’t get enough of Pizarro’s cooking – he has just opened his seventh restaurant, Lolo in Bermondsey Street, south of the river near Tower Bridge (his third on the same street), and his cookbooks continue to fly off the shelves – six titles since 2009’s Seasonal Spanish Food (Kyle Books), including three available currently via his website: Basque: Spanish recipes from San Sebastian & beyond (£18 Hardie Grant, 2016); Recipes from Andalusia (£18.99 Hardie Grant, 2019; reprint 2023); and The Spanish Home Kitchen (£33 Hardie Grant, June 2022). So who can blame us for wanting a sneaky peek into the Pizarro family Christmas?

Rapid ascent

Often described as the Godfather of Spanish cooking, Pizarro has lived in London for more than 25 years, working in some of the capital’s most prestigious Spanish restaurants before opening his first solo venture in 2011: José Tapas Bar on Bermondsey Street. A Barcelona home away from home, it went down a storm, enabling him to open his more ambitious Pizarro restaurant further up the same street later that year, which won a slew of awards.

Pizarro then launched three further restaurants in the capital: by Liverpool Street station, José Pizarro Broadgate Circle (about to be renamed Bar Plaza – ‘The name references the beating heart of every Spanish town’); another hot ticket, José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Arts; and The Swan Inn, a pub in Esher, in London’s suburban southwestern fringes – he had always wanted to open a country pub with a roaring fire.

And then there’s a growing consultancy with P&O Cruises, an Abu Dhabi restaurant and a swanky seaside villa in Andalusía, Iris Zahara, where you can get up close and personal during one of Pizarro’s cookery experiences. He’s busy, certainly, but never too busy to miss Christmas at home – in fact, he’s only ever missed one Christmas in Spain, when bad weather prevented the journey.

Festive fish

Unlike in the UK, Christmas Eve is the most important day in the festive calendar for the Spanish. And for the Pizarro family, fish is always on the menu, as it is in many other Spanish households on Christmas Eve, even in landlocked regions such as Extremadura.

‘We always cook a big fish for Christmas Eve. My mum might be 91 years old, but she still wants a little control in the kitchen. These days, though, it’s mainly me doing the cooking, with my sister helping. Yet my mum still looks at me occasionally, shaking her head, wondering what I’m doing. But I think she trusts me in the kitchen now,’ Pizarro says with a chuckle. ‘Normally we cook sea bass, but really it’s whatever we can get. I’m not fussy, as long as it’s a whole fish – the flavour is just so much better.’

The fish is stuffed with lemon and bay leaves, and placed on top of a tray of potatoes. ‘We slice waxy potatoes, add whole shallots, fat cloves of garlic, capers, saffron and white wine. We cook that in the oven for a bit first then lay the fish on top and cook it some more. It’s that simple,’ he explains. ‘We serve it with a salsa, which is usually made with parsley, oregano and roasted garlic.’ To drink with it? Always a red wine, declares Pizarro. ‘I’m often asked why I choose red with fish, but these are big flavours, which need a big wine. We usually drink gran reserva Rioja,’ he says. ‘Last year, it was a 2016, which still has a lot of fruit.’

The evening always kicks off with bubbles, says Pizarro, invariably his own-label fizz, produced for his restaurants by Bodegas Gramona in Alt Penedès (the producer left the Cava DO in 2017, together with a few others, to create their own designation, Corpinnat) – currently a classy 2018 gran reserva brut nature. The accompanying nibbles may surprise – an array of tinned fish.

‘People don’t understand tinned fish in the UK,’ says Pizarro. ‘Take our anchovies, for example. The Reserva Catalina Cantabrian anchovies are something special and are rarely seen. Matured in salt for two years, they have a unique colour, aroma and flavour.’

Pizarro sells the prized anchovies through his online shop for £22 for 10-12 (‘large’) fillets, and in his new restaurant Lolo, they’re offered for £36.50 on the menu, which boasts a special tinned section that also includes clams for £52 and chipirones (baby squid) in their own ink for £11.50.

‘My team initially advised me not to sell tinned seafood for those kinds of prices in the UK, and I thought, “Well, if they don’t sell, I’ll eat them”. But they sold like hotcakes. For Christmas, we just open the tin and serve them on a plate with some bread to mop up the olive oil,’ he explains.

And there’s always jamón to accompany the fizz, carved into paper-thin slices just before eating. The Iberian pig is a key ingredient of Extremaduran cuisine, and the region produces some of the best cured ham in the world.

Going for goat

Christmas Eve dinner always kicks off with a seafood starter, Pizarro continues. ‘Usually, it’s prawns cooked with garlic and chillies, which we serve with chilled fino en rama. People need to understand more about Sherry. They just need to try it, and once they do, they’ll be hooked. I’m also a big lover of the Spanish new wave of wines, especially in the Rioja region, but I also urge people not to forget the fathers of those young winemakers,’ says Pizarro, before sharing his love for old-style Rioja, from producers such as Marqués de Murrieta and López de Heredia.

The focus in Spain is gradually shifting towards Christmas Day, reports Pizarro, when presents are generally now opened, rather than the tradition of waiting until Three Kings Day on 6 January, another important date in the Spanish Christmas calendar. Christmas Day is also when he gets to eat his all-time favourite dish: baby goat.

‘Not a whole roasted goat, you understand, but a goat stew,’ he says, running through the list of ingredients, which include garlic, choricero peppers, pimentón de la vera (paprika), bay leaf and white wine. ‘It’s so simple, and it cooks for less than an hour. We serve it with a salad and fried potatoes. It’s the best,’ raves Pizarro.

The Christmas Day goat stew is eaten with sides that include blanched baby carrots, Brussels sprouts with bacon – husband Peter’s British contribution – and red cabbage cooked with raisins and Pedro Ximénez (PX) Sherry vinegar.

It turns out that Peter is the baker in the family. ‘I make a mean coffee and walnut sponge,’ he says with a grin as he joins the conversation, accompanied by the pair’s two ‘girls’: miniature schnauzers Conchi and Maggie Pie. Peter’s task is to make the Christmas Day dessert – an almond-rich Santiago tart with cream enriched with PX Sherry, which is also sipped with the pud. The couple, who’ve been married for 14 years, favour the PX from Fernando de Castilla; there’s also always a bottle of González Byass Matusalem open. ‘It’s Christmas in a glass for me,’ says the chef of the intensely rich 30-year-old oloroso.

And talking more of wines, what does Pizarro like to serve with the Christmas Day starter of simply cooked shellfish? ‘Usually an old-style, old-vintage white Rioja,’ he replies. ‘Which is typically followed by a new-wave Spanish red for the goat – whatever we’re in the mood for, which at the moment are the still wines coming out of Cádiz, but I might also look to Priorat.’

Busy times ahead

So, what’s next for Pizarro? Apart from spreading the word about superior tinned fish, and bringing back the devilled egg (a classic tapas dish) thanks to another fun section of the menu at Lolo, there’s a new cookbook coming out next May, published by Hardie Grant – 100 recipes using 12 key ingredients, including saffron and tomatoes – which he’s particularly excited about.

Until then, it’s Christmas to which the couple are most looking forward, with Peter offering the last word. ‘If you don’t have kids, it’s a different experience. For us, it’s the excitement of the food, drink and company. That’s our Christmas.’

Whole roast sea bass with saffron and lemon, with a herb and roast garlic salsa

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 banana shallots, cut into wedges
• 2 bulbs garlic, cloves separated from one, the other left whole
• 500g waxy potatoes, thinly sliced
• good pinch saffron threads soaked in 1 tbsp of just-boiled water
• 12-16 caperberries
• olive oil to drizzle
• 2 lemons
• 1 large or 2 smaller seabass, cleaned
• 120ml white wine
• 4 sprigs oregano, leaves stripped
• large handful flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
• good pinch smoked pimenton
• 120ml extra virgin olive oil

Method

1. Heat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6

2. Toss the shallots, garlic, potatoes, saffron and caperberries in a roasting tin together, drizzle with a good amount of olive oil and season well.

3. Season the fish inside and out, finely slice one of the lemons and put half of the slices inside the fish and the rest scattered over the vegetables. Set the fish aside.

4. Roast the potatoes for 20 minutes then toss well and pour in the wine, sit the seabass on top and roast for a further 20-25 minutes until the fish and vegetables are tender.

5. Make the salsa: squeeze the garlic from the whole roasted bulb and mash with a fork then mix with the oregano, chopped parsley, pimenton and the finely grated zest and juice from the other lemon. Drizzle in the extra virgin olive oil and serve with the fish.

Pan-fried prawns with garlic, chilli, Cava and crispy jamón

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 100g jamón Ibérico, sliced thinly into little strips
• 2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
• good pinch chilli flakes
• 12 large raw prawns
• good splash of Cava
• small handful flat leaf parsley, chopped
• extra virgin olive oil to drizzle
• lemon wedges to squeeze

Method

1. Heat the oil in a pan and fry the jamón over a medium-high heat until crispy and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2. Add the garlic and chilli to the pan and cook for a minute until fragrant then add the prawns and cook until they are pink all over, turning halfway and adding a splash of Cava to make a juicy sauce. Season well.

3. Spoon onto a warmed platter and scatter with the crispy jamón and parsley, then add a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and serve with lemon wedges and crusty bread.

Styling by Rebecca Newport

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Imagine you’ve been given a good bottle of Champagne: what do you pair with it? Maybe I’m doing you an injustice but my guess is that, whatever the style, you’re going to be pouring it as a prelude to a meal rather than as an accompaniment.

You wouldn’t be alone. Even the pros don’t always seem to appreciate the differences in style. Earlier this year, when I helped judge the Champagne Deutz trophy at the Constance Festival Culinaire competition in Mauritius, I was taken aback by how many of the participating chefs seemed to regard the hugely complex William Deutz Brut 2013 (£165 Averys, The Whisky Exchange) as a simple, fresh aperitif-style fizz.

Admittedly the pairing was with an amuse-bouche, but nonetheless the winning entry (by chef-owner Maurizio Oster from Michelin one-star Zeik in Hamburg) of a sea urchin ice cream with cucumber salad and Champagne foam, while delicious in itself, seemed, to this judge at least, better suited to a younger, brut nature cuvée.

Feel the difference

The obvious thing to say about Champagne when it comes to pairing it with food is that it’s about texture – the palate being refreshed by the stimulating sensation of bubbles, ready for the next mouthful. Not all go as far as, for example, Champagne Mumm this summer in Paris, at a dinner with chef Sato Hideaki of Michelin three-star Ta Vie in Hong Kong, who handed us swatches of different fabrics to feel and compare with the wines we were tasting. But it’s almost always the case that Champagne goes with fried food such as fish and chips, schnitzel and arancini, and acts as a foil to creamy sauces such as the one I had last year at a Champagne Leclerc Briant lunch at Jeremy Lee’s Quo Vadis in Soho.

Age is also a factor. The autolytic character (complexities developed as the wine ages for a period on the residue of spent yeasts in the bottle) of most vintage Champagnes makes them a good match for umami-rich dishes and ingredients such as roast chicken skin, truffles and aged Parmesan cheese.

Keep it dry

Sweetness – or the lack of it – should also inform your decisions. The fashion for no- or low-dosage styles (extra brut, brut nature) make them especially suitable for raw and other delicate seafood and vegetable dishes. Thinly sliced fish like sashimi and carpaccio, or tartares, oysters and caviar (with which until recently I preferred vodka) all go brilliantly with these drier styles.

At the other end of the spectrum, you don’t necessarily need a demi-sec Champagne with a dessert. Rosé can provide the delicate fruit that will offset creamy pud such as a cheesecake, panna cotta or mousse. At the Mumm dinner again, Hideaki paired a mousse of white peach and blanc de noirs with the Mumm, RSRV Rosé Foujita (£69.75 The Whisky Exchange; US$105 Mumm Napa), which has only 6g/L of residual sugar. Similarly, Jun Tanaka of Michelin one-star The Ninth in London has been matching a summer berry citrus and vanilla cheesecake with Lanson’s Le Rosé Création 67 (£48 The Finest Bubble) as part of his collaboration with the house.

Cheese with ease

Speaking of cheese, do you ever think of pairing Champagne with a cheeseboard? It makes a good New Year’s Eve treat, particularly if you devise a Champagne-friendly selection such as Chaource (from the region), some triple-cream cheese like Explorateur and Pecorino with truffles. It’s also great with mature Comté and, as I’ve mentioned, Parmigiano Reggiano. Or try a glass of vintage with a Vacherin Mont d’Or on its own; works better than a red.

Champagne, particularly blanc de blancs Champagne, is also a match for tricky-to-match eggs, especially softly scrambled with butter and served with smoked salmon. (Frequently better than smoked salmon on its own, especially with toast.)

With anything or nothing

Of course it’s not just about pairings. Champagne has built its market and reputation as an occasion wine, a guaranteed mood-lifter. ‘We find that customers don’t just pair Champagne with their meal,’ says Leonid Shutov, founder of Bob Bob Ricard and Bébé Bob, where luxury cuvées make up half their Champagne sales that are not accounted for by house Champagne. ‘Obviously, the choice of Champagne is in itself an indication that something of an occasion or celebration is involved. Granted, for non-vintage brut the threshold may be quite low – just getting to the end of a working day or week may be enough of a victory to justify reaching for a glass of Champagne.’

In many ways it mirrors the ‘hi-lo’ fashion trend (pair something posh with something cheap and simple). I’ve drunk Champagne at his restaurants with Russian-style dumplings, chicken Kyiv and lobster mac and cheese – dishes you could equally well serve at home and arguably should, given the price of Champagne in restaurants.

Champagne also goes with burgers (Wagyu beef if you’re pushing the boat out), pizza and sandwiches… Whisper it: almost anything that goes with a lager will go with Champagne, too.

So don’t save your fizz moments for aperitifs and Michelin-starred dining – enjoy Champagne whenever the mood takes you. Even on your own. After all, that’s what half-bottles are for.

Seven surprising matches for champagne

Bread & butter

I’m not talking supermarket sliced bread here, obviously, but if you’ve never tried Champagne with a freshly baked baguette and good French unsalted butter (Echiré for preference), you haven’t lived.

Roast chicken

There are many other pairings with roast chicken, but vintage Champagne is among the most luxurious, elevating a homely dish to one for a special occasion. (That applies to roast turkey, too.)

Indian street food

Anything fried and crispy works well with Champagne, and street food such as bhajis and pakoras are no exception. Non-vintage is fine.

Sushi

Especially with brut nature or very low-dosage Champagne – and they work with dim sum, too.

Waffles, bacon & maple syrup

A brilliant brunch idea from Veuve Clicquot’s pop-up Sunny Side Up Café a couple of years ago to celebrate the house’s 250th anniversary.

Hot dogs

A playful combination put on the map by Sandia Chang, of the late-lamented Bubbledogs (closed in 2020), who paired them with different grower Champagnes.

Christmas (and other fruit) cake

Particularly good with demi-sec Champagne, and it’s a lighter option than Port or Sherry (which is sometimes not a bad thing).

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Americans have been celebrating Thanksgiving for around four centuries, and for as long as anyone can remember, it has been a holiday centered around a turkey dinner, leaving little room for culinary experimentation. In recent years, however, that seems to have changed, with tradition giving way to local dishes on some tables.

Talking turkey

The US Department of Agriculture (USDA) reports that per capita turkey consumption has been slowly declining in recent years, with turkey production down 6.3% in 2024 compared to the previous year. So, if not turkey, what’s on the table come Thanksgiving? Duck, seafood, and other creative alternatives offer a fresh take on the traditional holiday feast.

Scroll down for seven wine recommendations from Bay Area

‘Turkey has its inherent flaws; it’s an easy bird to cook poorly, and many people just don’t enjoy it altogether. Plus, it’s a very large bird, so unless you’re hosting 12 people, you’ll be stuck eating turkey for weeks,’ says Gavin Schmidt, chef-partner at The Morris in San Francisco.

Duck, duck… duck

As an alternative to turkey, Schmidt makes a case for duck, noting that while it is smaller, it still ‘scratches the itch’ of having a roasted whole bird at the table. It’s ideally sized and well-suited for smaller groups. Of course, the pandemic played a role in pushing this trend forward. As we all know, families were forced into smaller, more intimate gatherings during lockdowns, and the demand for duck and other substitutes for turkey soared.

‘Pre-pandemic, we sold a very small amount,’ says Jennifer Reichardt, COO of Sonoma County Poultry, the farm that grows and supplies the locally famous Liberty Duck. ‘In 2020, we found that our customers were happy to get a whole duck instead of turkey as their Thanksgiving celebration was smaller than normal. It created a “new tradition”; even if their dinners have gotten bigger, they still come back for a whole duck, too.’

But both Schmidt and Reichardt agree, and clearly, for the customers who preorder those whole ducks weeks in advance, that duck is simply ‘a lot tastier’. At The Morris, the dish comes with a honey espresso seasoned duck gravy with the option to add roasted root vegetables to the meal.

Reichardt, author of The Whole Duck cookbook, offers a maple-glazed duck recipe paired with butternut squash hash and raisins. ‘It’s the perfect profile for those who still want a Thanksgiving flavour without all the extras,’ she adds.

Non-traditional Thanksgiving food creates the perfect opportunity for ‘non-traditional Thanksgiving wines’ to shine. Instead of a light-bodied, bright red fruit-forwarded Gamay or even a classic Pinot Noir, duck dishes with bolder flavours call for more structured, savoury, aromatic, and spice-driven wines like Syrah or Cabernet Franc.

‘Some of our favourite pairings at The Morris for the duck are Northern Rhône Syrah or Loire Cab Franc. The Aurélien Chatagnier “Zélée” Saint Joseph is a great one, but also never a bad excuse to crack that bottle of Thierry Allemand Reynard Cornas,’ says Schmidt. ‘If you want a domestic option, the great folks at Minus Tide make a magical Syrah.’

Seafood selection

While duck has earned its place as a turkey alternative, it’s not the only option shifting the Thanksgiving tablescape. Seafood, too, is making waves. ‘It’s considered a luxurious food,’ says Dave Stern, sales director of Monterey Fish Market in Berkeley, highlighting why it’s quite an obvious choice for special occasions.

Crab is one of the most sought-after items this time of year. Dungeness crab season would typically kick off in mid-November, right in time for Thanksgiving. But that hasn’t been the case for years. ‘The last time the San Francisco crab season opened “on time” was 2018,’ says Stern.

Apparently, some people are so committed to having crab for Thanksgiving that they’re ‘willing to pay whatever it takes’ to secure it. ‘With local Dungeness crab in short supply around the San Francisco Bay Area, we’ve been sourcing from Washington and Canada to meet demand,’ Stern explains.

However, when crab is scarce or the price gets too steep, other shellfish take its place – shrimp, lobster, scallops, clams and mussels are common substitutes. Salmon, too, is a popular choice. ‘It’s great because it stays moist and has a rich flavour,’ says Stern. ‘Black cod, or sablefish, is also gaining traction. Rich, fatty, and delicious,’ he adds.

As for wines, seafood presents a fantastic opportunity to explore coastal, mineral-driven white wines. A bright and light Chardonnay with refreshing notes of lemon peel and a touch of salinity is undoubtedly a solid Thanksgiving choice. ‘With roots in Cazadero, California, I apply my local filter to seafood and wine. Hirsch, in the West Sonoma Coast, is probably one of my first choices,’ says Stern.

Swapping local fare for traditional standards doesn’t change the spirit of the holiday or the celebration of togetherness and sharing that has come to define Thanksgiving.

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The Thanksgiving table includes a myriad of dishes and flavours, starting with appetisers to graze on as guests arrive. The buffet lineup of traditional dishes typically includes roast turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, casseroles and cranberry relish. Plates are filled with these favourites, and in one bite, you might get turkey, stuffing, potatoes and gravy. So, how do you pair wines with this array of flavours?

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A good starting point is to remember that the Thanksgiving table may not be the time to pour powerful, robust wines. Nor is it the time to fret about wine pairings with particular dishes. The goal is to serve a lineup of light-bodied, versatile and easy-drinking wines that can work with the multitude of flavours on the table. And most importantly, select wines that are likely to please your guests’ varying palates. Thanksgiving is a time to break bread and enjoy a hearty, home-cooked meal with those closest to you. Your wine selections accentuate this holiday tradition, not the featured attraction.

Pairing principles

Below are simple wine and food pairing principles for the Thanksgiving table and throughout the year. A good starting point is understanding what’s happening in the glass and on the plate and how those things can create an experience greater than the sum of its parts. These guiding principles of wine and food pairings are evergreen and are meant to enhance a delicious meal with tasty wines and fine company.

Wine and food pairings are more fluid than definitive. Tradition says that specific foods call for particular wines. Things such as oysters and Chablis or steak and Cabernet Sauvignon. With Thanksgiving mains, many point to Pinot Noir as the ideal pairing for a simple roasted turkey. Those combinations are examples of successful pairings, but other options exist. Oysters and sparkling wine (particularly Champagne), steak and Syrah, and turkey and Chardonnay work just as well.

Think less of the food or protein and more specifically of the preparation. When it comes to the turkey, is it deep-fried or roasted? With sweet potatoes, are they baked in a sweet casserole or roasted with pancetta? The preparation method or sauce may drive what wine will work best.

Food made with acid-based sauces (such as tomatoes, vinegar or lemon) goes well with Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir. Rich sauces work best with high-acid wines to refresh or with rich, full-bodied wines to really step into the richness. If there’s any spice on the table, such as a spicy sausage stuffing, lower-alcohol wines with some residual sugar (like Riesling) will work well.

Matching food and wines with similar weights and richness is one key to pairing success. To do this, one must think of food and wine as both existing on a spectrum: Light-bodied wines with light dishes and full-bodied wines with rich or spice-driven dishes. So, with lighter vegetable dishes, such as green bean almondine or shaved Brussels sprouts salad, an acid-driven white blend might work best. An oaky red blend with spicy, toasty notes would pair well with a baking spice-dominant sweet potato casserole.

When thinking about wine pairings for Thanksgiving, consider whether you’d like to balance or accentuate the flavours on the table. For rich dishes such as buttered mashed potatoes, mac and cheese, or candied yams, you can balance the richness and fattiness with a high-acid, palate-cleansing white such as Riesling or Pinot Gris. In contrast, accentuate and step into the richness with a full-bodied, creamy Chardonnay.

A special occasion

Undeniably, Thanksgiving is, for many, one of the rare occasions when a family from near and far come together. So it may stand to reason that it’s the perfect occasion to break out that wine you’ve been saving for a rarer moment. It may be a self-serving opportunity to open something you’ve wanted to revisit from your cellar or a perfect occasion to share the magic of ageing wine with friends and family.

When it comes to sharing aged wines, its important that you prepare the wine properly, as well as those who are perhaps experiencing their first aged wine.

Opening an older wine can be a challenge in itself, given the variable conditions often found with older corks. Making sure to open the wine away from the table is a smart first step, as crumbling corks and decanting wines require space to execute properly.

There are a few different techniques for opening older, more fragile corks, and then a decision must be made on whether or not to decant your older wine.

In addition to managing the wine, it’s a good idea to manage the expectations of your guests, who may not have any experience tasting older wines. Helping them understand how wine breaks down over time and what to expect will heighten their enjoyment or at least help them anticipate how the experience of an aged wine will differ from what they know.

As the primary components of an aged Bordeaux or Pinot Noir turn from fruit to secondary and tertiary characteristics, those aged wines may not be the most appropriate to pair with the food, but rather the occasion, and they may show best as a before or after dinner toast.

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