On 14 July 1789, a mob of Parisian citizens stormed the Bastille, a prison that had become a symbol of the oppression of the ruling monarchy.

It was a turning point in the French Revolution, a culmination of social upheaval and the dissatisfaction of the common people against the ruling elite.

It marked the end of the ancien régime – the old order – and the beginning of the first French Republic.

Wine, as it happens, was tangled up in all of it.

Quick-fire history of wine in France

The vine likely arrived in southern Gaul (the anicent area of Europe that roughly corresponds to modern day France) around 600 BCE – centuries before any king wore a crown or the concept of France even existed.

Winemaking and viticulture flourished under Roman rule, but it was the monastic orders in the Middle Ages that turned viticulture and wine into a discipline.

Monasteries often owned huge swathes of vineyards – especially in places such as Burgundy.

Both church and nobility used their vineyard holdings to fuel the feudal economy, while increasingly far-reaching and sophisticated trade networks in which wine was a key commodity contributed to the rise of wealthy bourgeois mercantile classes as well.

Into the early modern era, wine increasingly became a status symbol in the royal courts, the nobles drinking Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux.

But the Revolution toppled the monarchy, and broke the aristocratic leash on wine. Vineyards and land were redistributed, sold back to the people, and wine became their tonic.

Bastille Day is marked as a recognition of the power of the people. Here are five French wines with which to toast it.

Five French wines to toast to Bastille Day

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It's the semi-finals. Four teams, two games, one final match to decide it all.

And all four teams that have made it this far are from winemaking nations.

Whatever the results over these final games, the record of a winemaking country always winning the World Cup is guaranteed.

But who will be in that final game? France look like the best team overall. Spain feel like dark horses who could win in a closely-fought slugging match.

England and Argentina both have shown flashes of brilliance but also fraught, rather flawed performances from which they somehow emerge victorious.

And the potential finals are ripe with historic firsts. Will it be a third back-to-back final for France? A rematch against Argentina? A first-time clash against England who would be in their first final in 60 years.

Or maybe a rematch of 2024's Euros final? Spain vs England. Or, even, a first World Cup meeting between Spain and Argentina since (incredibly) 1966.

All to play for – here's what we're pairing with each match...

And if you feel the need for some... actual football analysis during this World Cup, do check in on our friends and colleagues over at FourFourTwo for all their updates and coverage.

Izzy: England

England (vs Argentina): The final four! After a rather nervy win over the Vikings on Saturday, England are through to the semi-finals for only the fourth time since 1966.

They’ll be meeting current title-holders Argentina in Atlanta, where both teams have previously pulled back from a losing position to overcome their rivals (England against DR Congo and Argentina in their dramatic win over Egypt last week).

Argentina have a particular habit of clawing back a win from the jaws of defeat, so England will need to show real grit and persistence to keep Lionel Messi at bay.

In this spirit, let’s continue to plumb the Decanter World Wine Awards for bottles that showcase the best of England winemaking, and try this platinum-winning sparkling rosé from Berkshire.

From a winery established less than 15 years ago – younger than Messi’s World Cup career – this is an extremely impressive wine, which shows the value of hard work and determination in the vineyard (as on the pitch!)

A wine that is delightfully English with rose garden, strawberry and red apple notes, it is described as an ‘allegory of national intent’ – a fitting choice for the team’s toughest match yet.

Rupert: France

France (vs Spain): Two European football and winemaking giants going head-to-head, and on Bastille Day no-less.

For two such famous footballing nations, it’s surprising that France and Spain haven’t clashed more often in major tournaments.

Spain has had the better of the most recent encounters in the Euros – beating France in the quarter-finals in 2012 and semi-finals in 2024 (going on to win those tournaments on both occasions).

The last – and in fact only – World Cup clash between the two was 20 years ago in 2006, the final hurrah of Zidane, Henry, Viera & co, and which France won (before losing in the final).*

In such circumstances it’s time to throw caution to the wind and lavish some money on a special bottle. It should be something ‘very French’ and is there anything more French than old Bordeaux?

Perhaps something from the 2006 vintage in honour of the last time these countries met.

An underrated vintage that, at 20 years old (and like this French team), is still revealing its charms, try snagging something like this Château Cos d’Estournel which continues to boast ‘abundant blackcurrant fruit and subtle hints of pepper, cedar, and smoke’.

*There was also the 5-4 Spanish victory in the semi-finals of the UEFA Nations League in 2025, but, honestly, who remembers/cares about that?

Ines: Spain

Spain (vs France): Would Spain have won its quarter-final duel if Belgium's goalie, Thibaut Courtois, hadn’t left the game injured? We’ll never know.

The road to victory is paved with unfair casualties and (a lot of) luck.

However, luck seems to often fail those who face France… La Roja needs, more than ever, to rely only on itself.

This semi-final calls for consistency, poise, nerve and resilience – the attributes of a good Ribera del Duero, such as the Finca las Dueñas Reserva from charismatic producer Francisco Barona, himself a great source of inspiration for Spanish players.

Barona's passion, work ethic and hands-on knowledge produce some of Ribera’s most exciting modern classics.

A recipe for champions?

Julie: Argentina

Argentina (vs England): A classic football rivalry – Maradona’s hand of God, David Beckham’s red card – when it comes to Argentina vs England in the World Cup heartbreak is just around the corner.

But the two sides haven’t met since Japan in 2002 (which England won) and, incredible, though it may seem, Lionel Messi has never played against England in his career.

Well, that all ends in Atlanta on Wednesday evening with two teams that have both flirted with brilliance and disaster on their tournament journeys so far.

As we’re rekindling an old footballing beef let’s keep it straightforward; a pure expression of high altitude Argentine Malbec.

Catena Zapata’s ‘Malbec Argentino’ is not only about as on-the-nose as it gets name-wise but also a wine that displays all the ‘dynamism, character and typicity’ we've come to expect from the country's wines – and their football team.

Expect, ‘juicy ripe cherry, plum, pink peach, pomegranate’ and possibly some more Messi magic.

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Krug is a Champagne house keen to remind us that it does things differently.

There is no ‘entry-level non-vintage’ here; instead there’s the Grande Cuvée, numbered in editions following the composition of the harvests used.

Then there are the single vintages, and the two Clos of Ambonnay and Le Mesnil, in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay respectively, whose prices and rarity ascend beyond the reaches of all but the luckiest Champagne lovers.

Should these rarer, more expensive wines be considered finer than the Grande Cuvée?

Absolutely not.

Equal footing

There are no hierarchies,’ says cellar master Julie Cavil. ‘At Krug every wine receives the same red carpet treatment. It is only the blending which decides’.

Despite the price difference, collectors and Krug fans tend to agree. While Krug vintages are rare treasures, side-by-side tastings tend to reveal little sense of down-grade to the more accessible Grande Cuvée.

The vintage is not ‘the best wine,’ says Cavil. ‘It is a wine that tells the singularity of the year’.

Grande Cuvée 174th Édition

Whether Grande Cuvée editions themselves always follow the strengths and weaknesses of the youngest years in their blend is open to debate.

Yet a comparison of the new 174th Édition, built around the generous, immaculate 2018 vintage, and the 173rd Édition centred on the challenging 2017, does make the case – even with the help of the house’s enviable reserve wine library.

Indeed, the reserve wine library takes precedence, even over the vintage bottling.

When the still base wines of the year, having spent a short ‘birth’ in old oak barrels before moving into individually tailored stainless steel, are lined up and assessed, first choice is given to blending components for Grande Cuvée, ‘and then to the library of reserve wines,’ says Cavil.

Only then, if interesting wines of the year remain, will a single vintage be released.

The 2013 vintage

Could it be said that the vintage bottling sometimes remained in the shadow of Grande Cuvée?

If so, then 2013 steps out boldly.

The 2011, 2008 and 2006 vintage releases told the story of the year, but the completeness, balance and age-worthiness of the blend in late-ripening 2013 has yielded the greatest Krug vintage of recent times.

With Chardonnay singing, Krug’s designation of the wine as ‘exalted citrus’ fits like a glove.

Clos d’Ambonnay 2008

The fortune doesn’t end there for followers of Krug’s rarer cuvées, though.

The blanc de noirs Clos d’Ambonnay cuvée from one of Champagne’s greatest vintages spent 17 years ageing in the cellar.

‘It was an incredible year, with lots of intensity,’ says Cavil. ‘But we had to be patient’.

The sheer force of the year in this charmed 0.68ha walled vineyard of Pinot Noir has yielded a wine of dramatic density, freshness and potency.

All wines may be treated as equals at Krug, but when it comes to vintages such as 2013 and 2008, some may be more equal than others.

New Krug releases not to miss

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Occasionally people ask me if I can recommend a light Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

It’s a bit like asking a zookeeper if he has any slim hippos or short-necked giraffes.

What I usually do in this situation is direct them towards wines from naturally slimmer and more athletic nearby appellations.

After all, the very best Châteauneufs tend to be those that embrace its natural plus-size magnificence.

But thanks to the appellation’s liberal rulebook and the diversity of its soils, Châteauneuf can be a broad church.

And occasionally I do come across excellent wines that, while not exactly light, are at the lighter end of the spectrum.

Wines with drinkability and a lightness of touch, but – crucially – still taste and act like Châteauneuf.

One estate that embodies this style is Domaine Juliette Avril.

The outer fringes

Stephan Brun-Avril has an infectious energy, a broad smile and is never short of something to say.

He finds it hard to concentrate but has plenty of ideas. ‘I’m like an upside-down tree,’ he says, ‘with roots that go all over the place up in the sky.’

He says his staff help keep him grounded.

I asked if we could visit the vineyards – of course, he says. He proceeded to jump-start a (long-)retired French army Jeep, and in we hopped.

As we rumbled through the pebbly vineyards, Stephan says: ‘I’m not a typical winemaker – I’m not from Châteauneuf.’

Many top Châteauneuf winemakers went to the village school and all grew up together. But not Stephan.

He’s half Italian, and grew up in Italy. It was only after completing his studies, that he travelled to France and joined the family estate.

It can’t be easy moving from a foreign country to this tight-knit community of 2,500 people and trying to fit in.

Perhaps that’s one reason Stephan is happy to make wines that don’t follow the local template.

New estate, ancient roots

The Avril name, however, is deeply embedded here – Stephan says that members of the Avril family lived in Châteauneuf before the French Revolution (1789–1799).

Different branches of the family have long been part of the winemaking scene; Maurice Avril owned Domaine le Père Caler (now closed), and Vincent Avril owns Clos des Papes.

In 1982, local landholder Jean Avril bequeathed 20ha of Châteauneuf vineyards to his daughter Juliette Avril, and in doing so, she established her own estate.

Juliette’s daughter, Marie Lucille Brun, started working at the estate in 1988. Marie Lucille was joined by her son Stephan in 2002.

Their holdings have grown since Stephan arrived; he bought land in Cairanne, Plan de Dieu and Côtes du Rhône. But the family’s heart, and winery, remains in Châteauneuf.

‘There are really two climates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape,’ says Stephan, ‘south and north.’

They have holdings in both – half in the hot, dry lands of lieux-dits Les Gallimardes, Les Serres and Les Plagnes to the south; the other half in the higher, slightly fresher terroirs of lieux-dits of Farguerol, Coteau de l’Ange and Pied de Baud to the north.

Towards the light

In other hands, these parts of Châteauneuf make powerful wines. But Stephan creates a style that is less potent and muscular. He achieves it through a combination of methods.

Firstly, he picks relatively early to preserve acidity and keep alcohol levels in check.

Secondly, he keeps maceration times short (around 12 days) in order to preserve freshness and not to extract too much tannin. He doesn’t age the wines for very long, and he only uses larger barrels.

Thirdly, he’s beginning to coferment his Grenache with a little Cinsault and Counoise.

‘We use them for juice,’ he says, and ‘they help to temper the Grenache and naturally reduce the alcohol’.

‘What made our reputation is balance,’ he says, and he aims to make a wine that he enjoys drinking himself.

Light, but authentic

Successfully producing a lighter style of Châteauneuf isn’t easy. It’s a terroir that naturally wants to make generous, ageworthy bottles.

Picking early is a dangerous game; if your grapes aren’t fully ripe, you risk making something puny or unconvincing – a toothless crocodile or a three-legged cheetah.

But Stephan treads carefully, managing to capture a high-toned floral expression of Grenache without sacrificing the gravitas of a genuine Châteauneuf.

Most Châteauneufs find their way to the dinner table in winter months. But that’s another rule that Stephan’s wines gleefully break.

A lightly chilled, summer Châteauneuf? Look no further.

Domaine Juliette Avril wines to try

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Early Bordeaux 2025 en primeur sales rose on last year’s weak 2024-vintage campaign, according to Geraint Carter of international merchant Bordeaux Index and Miles Davis of Vinum Fine Wines. Farr Vintners’ Thomas Parker MW said sales were up ‘a little’ although below the level of five years ago.

Cheval Blanc 2025 was one success. ‘We sold everything we could get,’ said Carter.

Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, said that the St-Emilion estate released everything it made after especially low yields.

Parker said Batailley and Lynch-Bages were top sellers. Will Hargrove, head of fine wine at Corney & Barrow, cited interest in Lafite, plus Mitjavile and Moueix offers, but also said: ‘Demand has been slower than the vintage deserves.’

Despite high scores, Bordeaux 2025 is entering a world of macroeconomic uncertainty. Carter said en primeur is largely ‘an amplification of what’s going on in the [wine] market, and the market is flat.’

He agreed it’s a great time to be a Bordeaux drinker, with good availability of high-quality vintages, but said 2025 release prices weren’t compelling enough in a tough environment.

He also highlighted the value offered by the well-regarded 2019 vintage (see table), with several years of bottleageing (and storage costs) under its belt.

Liv-ex’s Bordeaux 500 index – one indicator of pricing in the secondary market – was down 16.5% in value over five years to the end of May 2026.

While stable year-to-date, it was back to mid-2016 levels. Châteaux haven’t stood still. For example, Liv-ex data showed Lafite 2025’s release price was up year-on-year but otherwise the lowest of the past decade.

Vinum’s Davis said many 2025 en primeur prices looked relatively reasonable. He said there’s an ‘amazing opportunity’ for younger collectors to build a drinking cellar.

In his view, it’s not an investment market and people aren’t buying to make money, but he added: ‘There will be a time when we look back at these prices and think, were they really that cheap?’

Bordeaux 2025 vs 2019: A pricing snapshot

Bordeaux Index’s Geraint Carter said 2019 is a good-quality vintage that may present value for collectors who are considering alternatives to 2025 en primeur releases.

While some 2019s look more expensive than corresponding 2025s at face value, they have already been aged for several years.

DATA SUPPLIED BY BORDEAUX INDEX/LIVETRADE

The Bordeaux Index view

Fine wine & spirits specialist Bordeaux Index kindly sponsors this section of Decanter, and provides its view on the market here every issue. It can be found at bordeauxindex.com

En primeur own goals

The old maxim is that you can only control what you can control. For en primeur, that boils down to two things: the price and the offer.

Leaving the price to one side, en primeur today is, in essence, a marketing event. Bordeaux enjoys an extraordinary privilege: for a few weeks each year, the attention of the fine wine world is focused almost entirely on the region.

That opportunity should be cherished. Yet the 2025 campaign has felt like a masterclass in how to squander momentum.

Late April’s early releases were followed by two weeks of near silence, before a few releases around the holidays and a flood of big names in the closing stages.

In what was always going to be a difficult campaign, allowing interest to dissipate for weeks at a time was bizarre. For en primeur to succeed, the process has to feel transparent.

Visibility has improved, but buyers increasingly suspect that release quantities are being managed more aggressively, which feeds a damaging conclusion that the wine will be as easy, and quite likely cheaper, to buy in a few years.

Direct consumer engagement is also better, but in a world of abundant choice, the case for greater outreach is stronger than ever.

It’s difficult and expensive, yet it’s one of the few levers still entirely within Bordeaux’s control. If consumers are worth courting, then chances to do so must be seized wholeheartedly.

Now, did someone mention price?

Leroy leads Burgundy mega-sale

Wealthy collectors’ thirst for superstar Burgundy has appeared undimmed at recent US auctions, led by notable rarities from Domaines Leroy and Georges Roumier.

Auction house Hart Davis Hart (HDH) claimed a new record auction price for a single bottle of Domaine Leroy wine after selling the Burgundy producer’s Musigny Grand Cru 2015 for $95,600 (£71,374), including buyer’s premium (hammer price $80,000; high estimate $30,000).

It was from the ‘Orion Collection’ that formed part of a three-day auction marathon in May. All 3,563 lots offered found buyers, generating sales of $14.66m.

‘The market remains incredibly robust,’ said Hart Davis Hart CEO Paul Hart. Leroy’s Musigny is among the world’s most expensive wines, although prices can vary.

From the same collection, HDH sold single bottles of 2011 and 2013 for $41,825 and $35,850 respectively (high e: $30,000 and $28,000). In New York in June, a Christie’s auction of wines from ‘a Silicon Valley pioneer’ was also 100% sold.

Six bottles of Georges Roumier, Bonne-Mares 1971 fetched $100,000, including buyer’s premium (high e: $35,000).

In Hong Kong, meanwhile, rare Bordeaux was prominent as Bonhams offered wines from fashion designer Marie France van Damme.

A bottle of Saute Loup 2010, rarely sighted and made by Pomerol icon Petrus, sold for HK$13,750 (£1,314), including buyer’s premium (high e: HK$9,500).

A bottle of legendary Petrus 1961 fetched HK$81,250 (high e: HK$70,000).

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I’m not a Sauvignon Blanc denier, but I am all too often disappointed with thin, one-dimensional examples.

At its best, however, Sauvignon Blanc can be gorgeously textural and expressive, with weight but no heaviness, and richness balanced by salinity and succulence.

Its aromatic and zingy nature makes it one of the world’s most popular grape varieties, and flavours and aromas vary depending on where and how it's grown – climate, pruning and trellising systems, even the yeast strains used in fermentation.

Expect anything from tropical and exotic to citrusy and zesty, grassy and herby, or stony and mineral.

Organic Sauvignon Blanc – not an easy task

Despite its popularity, Sauvignon Blanc is fairly tricky to grow, and needs careful work in the vineyard to keep it healthy.

‘Sauvignon is relatively complex to work organically or biodynamically,’ says Jonathan Pabiot, a biodynamic winemaker in Pouilly-Fumé. 'It's sensitive to powdery and downy mildew, so in humid years treatments have to be very regular.'

Yet Pabiot says the vine's flower is very sensitive to copper, which is problematic for organic growers because copper-based Bordeaux mixture is one of the only permitted fungicides used to protect against powdery mildew.

For Pabiot, Sauvignon Blanc's very sensitivity to climate and disease stressors is what makes it so responsive to biodynamic farming. ‘Biodynamics helps us overcome these climatic risks, but it isn't magic either,' he says. ‘What it does do is help build living soil.'

Biodynamic winemakers in Languedoc Patricia and Luc Bertoni, of Domaine les Eminades, believe that it is precisely the nearly 20 years of organic farming that has made their Sauvignon particularly resilient to disease – as well as the clement climate of the south.

My Sauvignon Blanc moment

The moment I realised the heights and depths that great Sauvignon could reach was when tasting Andreas Tscheppe’s Blue Dragonfly, from south Styria in Austria, near the border with Slovenia.

Tscheppe and his wife Elisabeth farm their terraced vineyards biodynamically, at 500m altitude. These vineyards, like the wines, are full of life: picture lush vegetation, myriad plants, weeds, flowers, grasses, bugs, beetles, bees, dragonflies and birds.

Fermented with natural yeasts and minimal sulphur, and aged for almost two years in large old barrels, it tastes like wildflowers and wild grasses, sun-warmed orchard fruit, lemon and brine, with an intricate texture like a crispy snowflake.

For me, this is one of the purest, most stripped back and alive versions of Sauvignon Blanc – far removed from the pungent blast of Marlborough.

Of course, not everyone is looking for this hyper textural, nuanced version of the grape. Sauvignon has become something of a celebrity accessory,: Gary Barlow and Graham Norton both have their own brands, though Taylor Swift has, tellingly, traded up to Sancerre.

Has the grape’s cultural moment peaked?

Not if this summer’s internet wine trend is anything to go by – dropping frozen dill pickles into a glass of Sauvignon Blanc suggests it’s found a new, slightly unhinged lease of life.

Either way, here are seven delicious organic bottles to satisfy the Sauvignon-seekers this summer – pickle optional, but not advised.

Seven Sauvignon for summer sipping

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The eye traces the Loire from its mouth in Muscadet to Sancerre in the east. Pulled into Burgundy’s current, we’re soon adrift in Beaujolais, forgetting that France’s longest river bends sharply south to its origins in the volcanic heart of the Massif Central.

The Côtes du Forez lies on the slopes of this ancient landscape, almost off the map – yet nearest to where the river begins.

The smallest of the four appellations that make up the Loire Volcanique – a collective whose origins date back to a 2014 tasting entitled Ici Commence La Loire (‘Here the Loire Begins’) – Forez covers just 150ha of vines.

Its vineyards sit above the headwaters at elevations of 400m-600m, on granite and basalt soils derived from volcanic activity millions of years ago.

Narrow river-carved valleys – les gouttes – divide Forez into a patchwork of scattered hillside vineyards, mixed with pasture and forest.

Gamay is the sole grape permitted under the Forez AP, and the 11 domaines within the appellation mostly work with Gamay St Romain, a local biotype adapted to this upland terrain over centuries, producing wines of fine tannins, spiced red fruit, pepper and smoky minerality.

The Gamay connection invites associations with Beaujolais, but Forez’s higher elevation, shorter growing season and St Romain variant make for an edgier, more savoury expression.

Mostly unoaked, the wines manage to be dark yet light, mercifully registering around 12% alcohol.

Beyond Gamay, the vignerons of Forez bottle everything from volcanic Viognier and Chenin to Syrah under the IGP Urfé designation.

From the 1960s until the establishment of the Forez AP in 2000, virtually all local wine came from a single cooperative.

It was a long fall from grace: vines flourished here through the Middle Ages, and by 1883, there were more than 5,000ha under vine, fortifying the local mining industry and sending wine up the river.

Economically decimated by the phylloxera bug and two world wars, Forez was all but forgotten until a few local patriots brought it back from the edge.

Basalt crags and mountain Gamay

I arrived on a green-grey April morning with a cadre of curious Parisian sommeliers and wine merchants.

The vignerons greeted us at Château de Marcoux, perched on a basalt crag above the valley, and we tasted these mountain Gamays over a hearty lunch – charcuterie, Fourme de Montbrison cheese and a steaming pot of potatoes in cheese, cream and butter. I was grateful for the wines’ cleansing acidity and spicy profile.

Forez’s Gamays on granite, I found, tend toward richer, fruit-driven wines, whereas the basalt expressions are more mineral and ethereal.

Among the first to make wine outside the co-op were the Logel family. Today, cousins Maxime Verdier [Gillier] and Julie Logel carry the torch, having returned to Forez – Maxime from city life, Julie from development work in Cambodia.

I heard their colourful story – and those of fellow vignerons Stéphane Réal and Gilles Bonnefoy – over dinner at Château de Goutelas, where the menu was prepared chef Jacques Marcon of Michelin three-star Restaurant Régis & Jacques Marcon in St-Bonnet-le-Froid.

Famous for his use of wild mushrooms – gloriously in season at the time – Marcon served one of the finest meals I’ve had in France, and Forez’s volcanic Gamays rose to every course.

Pulsing with life

It’s easy to assume that places such as Forez – almost off the map – are provincial backwaters. But as I find time and again, there’s both natural beauty and cultural vibrance in forgotten France.

Medieval Château de Goutelas, part hotel, part progressive cultural centre, hosts artist residencies and music events – from raves to baroque ensembles. Perched in a forest among vines on the side of an extinct volcano, it pulses with life.

The Loire, like practically every river, has a hyporheic zone – an underground flow that extends far beyond its visible banks.

When we think we’re standing alongside a river, we are in fact often standing above it, unaware of what moves beneath.

Virginia Woolf, that most deliquescent of writers, put it best: ‘The past only comes back when the present runs so smoothly that it is like the sliding surface of a deep river.’

The eye traces these glistening surfaces, but to go beneath, we must travel to the source.

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If there's one cuvée every Champagne lover dreams of tasting at least once in their life, it's Salon. So imagine the chance to taste not one, but five vintages of this legendary wine, produced only 45 times since the house was founded in 1905.

And what an opportunity to enjoy these five wines alongside five more Blanc de Blancs cuvées from Champagne Delamotte, Salon's sister house.

This was the exclusive opportunity afforded some 80 lucky attendees who got tickets to this sold-out masterclass – the first one of the day at the 2026 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York City, held on Saturday 6 June in the beautiful surrounds of the Manhatta on the 60th floor.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the 10 Salon and Delamotte Champagnes at the DFWE NYC 2026 masterclass

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs NV (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2018 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2014 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2012 (magnum)

Delamotte, Collection Blanc de Blancs 2008 (magnum)

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2015

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2013

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2012

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2007

Salon, Cuvée S, Edition 2020, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 1997

Sister houses with distinct identities

Hosted by Cristian Rimoldi, the export director for both Delamotte and Salon, which have been part of the Laurent-Perrier group since 1988, this rare and exceptional tasting was a deep-dive into the complex and nuanced language of Chardonnay and the grands crus of the Côte des Blancs through the lens of these iconic sister houses

Through 10 remarkable and defining expressions of these outstanding terroirs, Rimoldi illustrated the commonalities between the two house’s approaches, as well as their distinct identities.

As background for the attendees, Rimoldi explained that the same technical teams are in charge of both houses, from viticulture to marketing. This allows for a nuanced understanding of the Chardonnay profile – from both owned and purchased vineyard plots – and subsequent decisions, particularly regarding the decision to release vintage cuvées.

For both houses, the wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks, but each has a different regimen regarding malolactic fermentation. It is done at Delamotte, while it is not encouraged – indeed prevented – at Salon, in order to preserve the delicate tension of the grape variety and terroir.

The dosage, made with cane sugar, is determined on a case-by-case basis, yet ranges between five grams per litre and 7.5g/L, with the exception of late disgorgements (Delamotte's Collection cuvée, and the ‘editions’ for Salon), which are brut nature, the extended bottling time providing the desired balance on the palate without the addition of sugar.

Champagne Delamotte

The first part of the tasting focused on Delamotte. One of the oldest houses in the Champagne region, founded in 1760, it specialises in Chardonnay, the grape variety at the heart of its four cuvées, where the average age of the vines is 40 years.

Champagne Delamotte also has HVE certification, which verifies its commitment to sustainable viticulture, and is moving towards organic farming trials

While it draws on the exceptional terroir of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Delamotte's philosophy, as Rimoldi told his audience, is the blending of the great crus of the Côte des Blancs. For the Blanc de Blancs NV, Avize and Oger are added to Mesnil, and for the pair of Blanc de Blancs Vintage cuvées, it is the three aforementioned crus plus Chouilly, Oiry, and Cramant.

‘We are the only house offering a blend of all six crus of the Côte,’ he emphasised. Added from 2008 onwards, Chouilly and Oiry ‘bring acidity, but also a structure similar to that of a Pinot Noir’.

The Blanc de Blancs NV is designed to be approachable, with the base vintage joined by 30% of reserve wine from the two preceding vintages, a 48-month aging period, and a more ‘inclusive’ dosage of around 7g/L.

The vintage cuvées, meanwhile, are crafted for complexity and ageing potential, and are undoubtedly the flagship of the house – albeit a discreet flagship, noted Rimoldi, often overlooked or little known by Côte des Blancs enthusiasts.

Contrasting vintage profiles

This was confirmed by comparative tastings of the 2018, 2014, and 2012 vintages. Their distinct identities were clearly identifiable – the ripeness of the 2018, the cool tension of the 2014, and the robust structure of the 2012 – especially since they were tasted in magnums. (They, like all 10 wines in the tasting, were aged under screwcap).

‘In terms of pH and ripeness, 2018 is similar to 1982,’ said Rimoldi when the topic of climate change was raised, along with its potential impact on a style as intense as Delamotte and Salon.

‘We need to take a step back and look at cycles,’ he explained. ‘We are obviously very aware of this issue. One advantage, however, is the improved health of the grapes compared to harvests that were previously very late and more complicated.

‘And we are fortunate to be on exceptional chalky terroirs with their water reserves, which are so important for the vines.’

The fact that the 2014 and 2012 were also in a period of post-disgorgement development highlighted the contrasting profiles of these vintages, both in terms of volume and aromas.

The comparison became even more interesting with the 2008 Collection. Delamotte offers late disgorgements for its Brut Vintage (dating back to 1964) as well as its Blanc de Blancs (1970, 1985, 1988, 1991, 1999, 2000, 2008).

Disgorged and then aged for barely a year, with no added dosage, the 2008 had the aromatic profile of a great Chardonnay, but with surprising power and density for a Côte des Blancs wine. A wine showing that Delamotte's vintage Blanc de Blancs is a benchmark, offering real value for money.

Champagne Salon

The second part of the tasting was devoted to the truly unique Salon Champagne. While its aesthetic – a single terroir (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger), a single vintage, a single grape variety – is no longer particularly striking today, Rimoldi reminded attendees that ‘Aimé Salon, a great lover of Burgundy, had this idea in 1905!’

Moving from the magnum format of the five Delamotte wines to the 75cl format for Salon – as well as going from the mature, brut nature 2008 Delamotte Collection to a young 2015 Salon, required particular concentration from the guests and was a true exercise for the palate.

But Rimoldi started with this latest vintage release followed by 2013, 2012, 2007, and 1997 in its 'second edition' version from 2020.

‘There is only one disgorgement when we release a vintage, and we do not indicate the date on the bottle,’ he told the masterclass.

‘However, we have decided to offer late disgorgements which we call Editions, in which case the disgorgement dates are mentioned. In terms of dosage, we are still around 5g/L to 7g/L grams, as for Delamotte, except for these late disgorgements, which are brut nature, as for Delamotte Collection.’

Making history

Only 45 vintages of Salon have been released since 1905 – 37 during the 20th century, but already eight since 2000.

Symbolic of the climatic consequences, 2015 was a sunny vintage so required less bottling time than 2014. This vintage has needed a longer time on the lees (tirage) and is still ageing ‘at a glacial pace’.

This is only the second time in Salon’s history it has made a non-chronological release. And once 2014 is out, it will also be only the second time that four consecutive Salon vintages (2012-13-14-15) will have been made, after the quadrilogy of 1946-47-48-49.Undoubtedly, the 2015 benefited from the water-retaining quality of the Mesnil chalk, mitigating the stress experienced by the vines in other Champagne areas, which can lead to vegetal bitterness on the palate.

The 2013 and 2012 vintages were remarkable examples of the Salon style, but very different profiles: 2012 with its mature, slightly more evolved structure, and 2013 with its crisp, chiselled freshness.

Salon has a reputation for closing up after a few years in the bottle and then reopening. This seems to be more the case with 2012 than 2013. The 2007, with a profile similar to the 2014, also benefited from a longer tirage period (11 years compared to the average of nine), and is now at its peak, deserving its nickname of ‘shining light’.

The masterclass concluded with a truly great 1997 (edition 2020), aged for 23 years and with no added dosage. Confirming again the importance of lees in defining texture and revealing density, the wine is surprisingly expressive.

Champagne Delamotte and Salon masterclass: 10 Blanc de Blancs cuvées

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Sunny summer days mean it’s time for seafood, but which wine to choose? Here are some golden rules – and refreshingly offbeat pairing suggestions.

How to choose a wine to pair with seafood: Advice from sommeliers

Remember the sauce

Chablis with fish, claret with meat – haven’t we come a long way since then? The seafood and wine pairings on offer from sommeliers these days range from Junmai Daiginjo sake to fino Sherry and from Georgian orange wines to bright, cherry-packed Sicilian Frappato.

There’s method in their madness, of course, with tried and tested matches adding another layer of complexity and flavour to your seafood feast, each enhancing the other – or at least that’s the theory.

There are some rules to follow, of course. There’s no point ruining a fine white Burgundy with a fat Hebridean scallop dressed with a vinegar-spiked beurre blanc when an off-dry Riesling will deliver just the right zingy balance, the sweetness riffing with the sauce.

So, there’s rule number one: match the wine with the sauce rather than the protein.

Think about acidity, weight and texture

Riffing with wine and food is something Fabio De Nicola embraces. The sommelier at Italian seafood restaurant Baccalà near London Bridge often likes to create balance through contrast.

‘For example, using high acidity to cut through richer or oily fish, or saline and mineral notes to highlight freshness and natural sweetness,’ he says, while pairing a vibrant yet creamy 2020 Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva from Casa Lucciola with a main of grilled prawns and squid with black lime and bitter greens.

Charlie Edwards agrees. Until recently the food and beverage director at Tom Brown at The Capital in London’s Knightsbridge, which was awarded its first Michelin star this year for its creative menu, Edwards believes you should always consider acidity when it comes to matching seafood and wine.

‘Acidity keeps things clean and bright,’ he says. ‘Shellfish and meatier fish often sit beautifully with wines that have a bit more body and mineral tension, like a Chardonnay from Burgundy, whereas lean white fish really shines alongside crisp, aromatic styles.

‘And look at the weight and texture of the dish,’ he adds. ‘Lighter, delicately cooked seafood tends to work best with fresh, precise wines that won’t overwhelm it, while richer dishes – whether that richness comes from the fish or the sauce – can take something with more depth.’

How has your seafood been cooked?

Another thing to consider is the cooking technique, says Marcello Colletti, sommelier at London’s swankiest new seafood restaurant opening, Lilibet’s in Mayfair.

‘If your fish is grilled, that introduces a smoky element, so think light reds such as Chilean País, Jura Poulsard or Oregon Pinot Noir. Or if the fish is pan-fried in butter, then look at rich Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc.’

Seafood with sake

And when you’re struggling to find that perfect match for your seafood dish? Consider sake, suggests Michele Orbolato head of wine and sake at London Japanese fine dining restaurant Luna Omakase.

‘Certain styles of sake contain umami, which gives them broader and more flexible pairing options with seafood,’ he says. ‘This allows sake to complement textures and flavours that can sometimes challenge wine.’

The preferred pairing for Luna’s ambrosial signature dish O-Toro tartare – bluefin tuna belly tartare, aged wasabi and caviar? A sparkling sake. ‘Masumi’s Origarami works beautifully with the dish, offering delicacy, freshness and gentle palate-cleansing qualities,’ enthuses Orbolato.

Keeping it simple

Want to keep it simple? Then stick to the well-trodden path of pairing coastal wines with seafood dishes – hello, Txakoli and the like. And if you’re stuck with what’s on offer at the local supermarket, there’s always good old Albariño – it works every time.

Five great wine and seafood pairings to try

Native oysters with vintage blanc de blanc Champagne

The richness of the Chardonnay matches the meatiness of the oyster, while the oxidative qualities of the ageing contrast with the salinity.

Fish & chips with manzanilla Sherry

You can’t beat a light, fresh manzanilla Sherry with fish and chips – served chilled, its bone-dry, salty, zesty profile cuts through the rich batter and even stands up to the vinegar

Grilled sardines with Assyrtiko

A punchy fish, especially when barbecued and doused in lemon, needs a punchy coastal wine with lots of citrussy acidity to cut through the oiliness and smoke – step forward Santorini Assyrtiko.

Turbot pil-pil with Godello

A recent discovery – high-acidity, minerally, aromatic Galician Godello easily stands up to the now-popular rich, garlicky Basque sauce.

Seafood platter with English sparkling wine

With its racy acidity and distinctive flinty minerality, English fizz shines served with towering tiers of simply cooked seafood.

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The 2009 Bordeaux vintage has lost none of its power to charm and captivate.

A recent tasting in Atlanta showed that most of these wines are still in their first blush of youth, and the best will live for decades.

The intervening years have only confirmed what we suspected even on release – this is among the epochal vintages from Bordeaux.

It represents a turning point in the wines of Bordeaux in so many ways – the warming climate, the changing styles, the fashion for the wines – yet 2009 stands alone.

The chance to revisit these wines was exciting for all the tasters. Michael Davis, principal at Hart Davis Hart auction house in the US, expressed it best when he said that for him 2009 was 'joyful and expressive'.

The alluring 2009 style

There were several top-flight vintages in the first decade of the new century, beginning with superb millennial vintage, the almost unbearably hot 2003 that delivered sybaritic delights; the monumental 2005, still tannic and not yet ready to drink, with the charming 2006 and 2008 just behind.

There are many wine lovers, however, who would argue that the finest vintage of the decade was 2009. The wines are voluptuous, accessible, and hedonistic, yet structured enough to last.

It occurred to me while tasting through these two dozen wines that 2009 resembles the wines from 1982, and I began to think of 2009 as an updated version of 1982 – almost a ‘1982.2’.

The wines in general are substantial and have abundant extract; lots of tannin yet no astringency; enough acidity to give definition but not so much as to make them hard or unyielding; and a sweet, ripe character to the fruit with no sense of it being baked or over-ripe.

The secret to the seductive nature of the fruit in 2009 is that the vines never shut down during the growing season, as they do in the face of excessive heat or drought.

There was just enough water in July and August to keep the vines ripening the fruit throughout the season, and while there were hot days (and plenty of sunshine), the grapes did not suffer the excessive heat spikes that they saw in 2000 or 2003.

The weather behind the magic

The year got off to an appropriate start with a cold, wet winter that plunged the vines into dormancy, refilled the water table, ensuring that budbreak didn't start too early.

There was no hint of spring frost, and although there was a hail storm on 11 May, it did not damage the best vines.

Flowering happened early and finished quickly, setting a large crop on the vines. Crucially, the growing season was hot and sunny, but not so much as to interrupt the grapes gentle ripening.

The region saw moderate rainfall on 18, 19, and 20 September, but there was no further rain until the harvest was complete.

The key to success was to wait until after the rain to pick the Merlot, and to wait until the Cabernet was fully ripe, beginning in mid-October.

Because of the gentle nature of the growing season, the vines ripened to levels not often seen in Bordeaux – mostly over 14% on the Left Bank and up to (and sometimes beyond) 15% on the Right Bank.

If picked at the right time, both Cabernet and Merlot were successful.

Because of the lush, forward character these conditions delivered, these powerful wines are beginning to open up now.

While it is not too early to pull some corks, the best of these wines should continue to improve for decades to come.

From boom to bargain: The market context

When the 2009 vintage came to market, the world was in love with Bordeaux wine. Demand was booming in Asia, and the 2008 financial crisis was disappearing in the rear window.

With consumers in the UK, US, and Hong Kong all avidly chasing top Bordeaux wines, the 2009 primeurs offers were optimistic, and prices seemed dear indeed.

In the intervening 15 years since this primeurs campaign, however, much has changed – Bordeaux wines have lost some of their shine, the global wine market is depressed, and producers are sitting on significant stocks.

As a consequence, prices for these sumptuous wines have not increased greatly, and are, in some cases, lower today than they were upon release.

For a buyer looking for immediate pleasure, long-term cellaring potential, and perhaps smart appreciation, the 2009 vintage represents a wonderful opportunity.

Standout performers

Among the delights of the tasting were second growths that were drinking like firsts, particularly Léoville-Las Cases, Léoville-Poyferré, Pichon-Baron and Gruaud-Larose (as well as perennial overachieving fifth growth Pontet-Canet).

There were also strong performances further down the price ladder like Poujeaux and Malescot-Saint-Exupéry.

Although were some disappointments – I felt that both Lynch-Bages and Pavie should have done better given the conditions – the best wines of the vintage are classics that will long outlive most of us, particularly Margaux and Lafite, with Cheval, Mouton, and La Mission Haut-Brion not far behind.

Bordeaux 2009: 24 top wines from this epochal vintage

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I arrived in Burgundy for a two-month stint in late spring of 2024 with only a limited understanding of the region, and even less sense of how to navigate it.

It wasn’t until a couple of weeks into living in Chalon-sur-Saône that I went to Beaune for the first time.

I soon realised that the key to enjoying Burgundy at its best was to think – and drink – like a local.

Burgundy is small enough, and its wine community close enough, that it doesn’t take long to notice how everyone is connected – winemakers, importers and friends-of-friends all circle back to the same handful of addresses.

Spend just a few evenings in Beaune’s wine bars and that web starts to reveal itself.

Get to the beating heart

The centre of that web is Beaune’s Saturday market – and more specifically, the Saint Romain Coffee cart in front of the giant panda statue.

Matt McClune, an artist from Boston, moved to France in 2004 with his wife, eventually landing in St-Romain, where he started a coffee roastery.

Saint Romain Coffee fuels the wine world in Burgundy and beyond. The coffees, which are all sourced from independent farms in Ethiopia, are carefully roasted in small batches at Matt’s shop, located in a cellar-like space on a steep hill just above a sea of vines.

The shop is open Mondays and Tuesdays, but it’s best to find Matt on Saturdays, pouring perfectly extracted espresso into ceramic mugs among a swarm of winemakers and market-goers.

It’s from this point that the world of Burgundy – its goings-on, its stories, its secrets – opens up.

Ease into local life

The market itself is one of the region’s best. Stalls of spices, cheese, fruit, bread, vegetables and cured meats roll into town before sunrise and take over every street, only to roll out again by midday.

Beaune’s narrow cobbled roads buzz with food and wine lovers.

Afterwards, with bags of Comté and produce in hand, locals retreat to Beaune’s brasseries for lunch. Crème Comptoir, an all-day café and wine bar on Rue Paradis, is a favourite – an easygoing spot, where bar seating wraps around an open kitchen.

Here Saturday afternoons reliably draw a crowd of local winemakers and wine professionals catching up over a bottle.

Listen in for long enough and you’ll pick up on the region’s rhythms. The Côte d’Or’s large expat community makes it an easy place to navigate without French, and postings for local wine and food fairs and concerts are usually pinned in the window.

In Burgundy, it’s nearly impossible to turn over every stone in a single visit – there is always another producer, another café, another thread to follow.

What remains constant is the promise of a region that opens itself up to those patient and curious enough to seek out its local community, not just its cellar doors.

Knowing where to begin is the hardest part – and that’s exactly what this guide, and the recommendations below, are designed to help with.

Many of the villages in Burgundy are accessible by train – the same line that carries you south to Lyon and north to Paris.

Having a car isn’t really necessary, but it’s helpful for organising vineyard visits and exploring the region beyond its towns.

Wineries to visit

The wineries listed here are a great start to discovering the wines of the region. Always try and book in advance, some wineries are open by appointment only.

Where to stay

Boutique hotels and guest houses are the perfect place to base yourself when travelling in Burgundy. Many of them marry historic touches and original features with contemporary decor and a sense of understated luxry.

Alfred Hotels, Beaune

A boutique hotel on the edge of Beaune that opened in early 2026, its 49 rooms are the perfect jumping off point for exploring the local town and the region beyond.

It seamlessly blends old and new, offering a comfortable stay while remaining enmeshed in Beaune’s historic landscape.

Maison du Colombier, Beaune

A historic guesthouse in Beaune’s city center with five independent apartments and a great wine bar that opens onto the iconic cobblestone streets.

Maison le Chevreuil, Meursault

Luxury 10-room inn and restaurant surrounded by the beautiful vineyards of Meursault.

Papotte, Bligny-sur-Ouche

A series of four design-forward homes and apartments located around a beautiful mill, offering longer-stay rentals. There is also a beautiful café.

Côté Park, Givry

An 18th-century château converted into four distinct guest rooms which overlook a quiet courtyard.

Ô Cœur de Chalon, Chalon-sur-Saône

There are some amazing homes for rent in downtown Chalon-Sur-Saône, and this is a great option for something central.

What to do

Where to eat and drink

Unsurprisingly good wine is not hard to come by in Burgundy, but the suggestions for restaurants and wine bars below offer something a cut above the rest; a well-measured combination of excellent wines, thoughtful and sensitive food and great atmosphere.

Crème Café, Beaune

All-day café and wine bar serving seasonal fare in a laid back setting.

La Dilettante, Beaune

Wine bar serving natural wine and French classics with a Japanese influence.

Caves Madeleine, Beaune

Often considered one of the best restaurants in Beaune for its hyper-local classic cuisine and amazing wine list. Make a reservation far in advance to get a seat.

The Publican, Beaune

Local evening haunt serving great local wine and beers on draft.

Le Soleil, Savigny-les-Beaune

A quaint inn and bistro set inside a gorgeous, sun-yellow home. Both the food and wine menus rotate daily – farm to table takes on a new meaning here, with deliveries being made by local farmers and winemakers at all hours of the day and night.

La Cave du Centre, Chagny

Opened in 2024 by wine writer Aaron Ayscough, it serves foremost as a wine shop offering unique and fan-favourite bottles alike, alongside a menu – written on the mirror of course – of classically French small bites.

Colette, Chassagne

Set among Chassagne’s beautiful vineyards, this is a wine bar, wine shop and coffee shop from Clément Colin-Morey – son of local legendary winemaker Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey – and his partner Emma.

Le Petit Chêne, Chassagne

One of the region’s best boulangeries and chocolate shops.

Le Soufflot, Meursault

Located in a former winegrower's house in one of Burgundy’s most iconic villages, the atmosphere here is relaxed and comfortable, but the food is refined and delicate, paired with an excellent wine list.

Haïka Coffee, Chalon-Sur-Saône

A great local roastery in the town center with a lovely terrace where you can catch the goings-on of the town while you sip.

La Maison Romane, Nuits-St-Georges

Restaurant, bakery, brewery and cellar, La Maison Romane is a true hub for community and connection in Burgundy, founded by Oronce de Beler, who decided to leave Paris in 2004 to learn winemaking.

Bruno, Dijon

An intimate wine bar helmed by Bruno himself, a local legend in Dijon, who has curated one of the most refined wine lists in Burgundy, serving charcuterie, cheese, anchovies and other great delicacies to regulars and tourists alike.

Cibo, Dijon

A new-wave bistrot serving refined seasonal fare inside of a stunning 17th-century stone building in downtown Dijon.

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On a quiet road in St-Emilion, two tall stone pillars mark the entrance to small, idyllic, grand cru classé Château Corbin.

Turn in and follow the gravel drive lined with old horse-chestnut trees. You’ll come to an iron gate that opens to a courtyard and a white-shuttered 18^th century château of cream-coloured stone, complete with romantic tower.

Outbuildings on either side hold the vat cellar and the office; the surround is well-tended Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines, the main grapes of St-Emilion.

This elegant property is one of my favourites in Bordeaux. Unlike the left bank’s grand, imposing châteaux with shiny new chais designed by famous architects, Corbin feels intimate, charming, jewel-like.

You fantasise about living there. And it has a tradition of being run by talented women.

The latest is Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet, who took over in 1999, and did that year’s harvest with a baby in her arms, she tells me as we tour the vines and cellar.

Now she’s wearing fashionable black sunglasses and boots, black slacks, and a man’s Rolex.

Since just before the 21^st century began, she’s been revamping this beautiful estate and perfecting its wines.

As she began, a Right Bank group of rebels called garagistes dominated the conversation in St-Emilion with their controversial, flamboyant, oaky reds that achieved cult status thanks to the enthusiasm of critic Robert Parker.

But Cruse-Bardinet’s goal from the beginning was different: to hone a wine style that’s all about elegance, purity, and Corbin’s terroir. And her recent vintages are the best yet.

A long history, and trailblazing women

In the 13^th century, Corbin’s land was the central part of a large fiefdom belonging to local lord Arnaud de Corbin.

One later owner, it’s believed, was the son of King Edward III of England, known as the Black Prince who was, for a short while, direct ruler of Gascony and lived in Bordeaux.

Time saw the eventual breakup of the huge property. A map dating to 1811 shows five châteaux that include ‘Corbin’ as part of their names, but Château Corbin is the original one.

By the 19th^th century Corbin belonged to négociant Jean Chaperon-Grangère, mayor of Libourne, and his death started a tradition of women managing the estate, his widow Marguerite taking charge from 1832 to 1845.

Jean-Paul Chaperon, the distant cousin who inherited next, combined Corbin with neighbouring Château Jean Faure for some 50 years.

Cruse-Bardinet’s great grandparents, négociant Joseph Guiraud and his wife Yvonne, who bought Corbin in 1924 ushered in a new era.

During the Second World War, their daughter, Marie Joseph, took over when her husband was made a prisoner of war. She was the second woman to run the estate.

Later, her parents purchased Chateau Certan-Guiraud in Pomerol, which also came under her purview and she ran both for decades.

And when the St-Emilion classification system was established in 1955, Corbin was ranked grand cru classé. Her eventual consultant? Michel Rolland.

Anabelle, born in 1967, is the third woman to shape the estate’s fortunes. You could say that winemaking and Corbin were her destiny.

She’s a member of the Cruse family – her cousin is Emmanuel Cruse of Château d’Issan – major players in the Bordeaux wine trade for seven generations.

She grew up at Château Laujac, a 400-hectare estate in the north Médoc where her winemaking father farmed a 70 hectare vineyard and managed a herd of 500 cows.

But during her childhood she also spent a month each year during harvest at Corbin, owned by her mother’s family.

‘It was more important than school,’ she says. ‘A retired teacher came to the château to teach us every day after we picked grapes.’

Corbin's call

Cruse-Bardinet’s first job after studying oenology at University of Bordeaux was at Château Branaire-Ducru, and she worked in California at Sterling Vineyards, and for several years at Laujac.

But her grandmother, who wanted her to take over Corbin, frequently requested her help, and eventually the estate’s charm seduced her.

As in so many Bordeaux wine families, a tangle of family ownership conflicts reigned for many years.

The fighting was resolved in 1999, when one part of the family took control of Certan-Guiraud and sold to Christian Moueix, who renamed it Hosanna.

Cruse-Bardinet, her sisters, and grandmother retained Corbin until 2007, when Cruse Bardinet and her husband Sebastien were able take complete ownership.

The rise of women was just beginning in Bordeaux when she took on the winemaking role at Corbin.

The challenges required immediate judgment and investment. Luckily, she jokes, her parents educated her on the value of work.

The vineyard, which surrounds the château, wasn’t in bad shape, but needed a new drainage system.

Revamping the estate

Lying on the border of Pomerol, the terroir is completely different from the famous limestone plateau surrounding St-Emilion village.

The six hectares on the Pomerol side of the vineyard are clay; the other seven hectares are ancient sandy gravel over an iron-rich clay subsoil.

A study of the terroir pointed to new rootstocks, clones, and replacing the vines in many plots.

There was no crush pad for the picked grapes. They lacked a sorting table and decent crusher and had to upgrade the cellar with new temperature-controlled vats.

The château itself hadn’t been lived in for years and required renovation. Michel Rolland’s consulting team helped advise on vinification.

The wines improved quickly, and the 2009 hit the jackpot, with international praise for its deep, ripe, generous fruit, sumptuous texture and oh-so-reasonable price.

A few years later came an office rebuild and space for visitors, and eventually a new vat room, finished just in time for the great 2016 vintage. Finally, everything was complete.

Or so she thought.

2017: The turning point

At the end of April in 2017, a severe frost wiped out Corbin’s crop. Cruse-Bardinet says she felt like she was as dead as the vineyard. But gradually she saw the year with no wine as an opportunity to rethink everything she had been doing.

‘We will never fight against mother nature,’ she says. ‘Adapting to what she gives means changing the way we make wine.’

In other words, a style revolution.

The first thing was to recognise you couldn’t just follow traditional production rules. In 2018, she brought in a new cellar master, and started picking earlier, plot by plot.

‘Even a day can make all the difference,’ she says. Using plot by plot vinification, she favoured infusion rather than pump overs for less extraction.

Having sold the barrels intended for the 2017 vintage, she bought fewer, using only 50% new and discovered the richness of her wine in those not aged in new oak.

In 2019, she tried glass wine globes, a round-shaped glass vessel, for ageing the Cabernet Franc to showcase the Corbin terroir and bring out more pure fruit flavours.

In 2020, she started fermenting without sulfur and expanded wine globe experiments. In 2021, she added densimetric sorting, a way to move grapes through water and select only those with greater density. In the vineyard she switched to only organic products.

And she enlisted a new consultant, rising star Thomas Duclos of Oenoteam, noted for helping châteaux find a fresher, more balanced, nuanced wine style.

‘I’m on the way of Corbin and its terroir now,’ she says. ‘Finally, the wine and estate are what I want. And now my aim is to transmit all this to the future.’

Ten vintages of Château Corbin

Wines are listed by vintage, oldest to youngest

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‘I’m a baby of the climats de Bourgogne,’ says Hombeline Guyon, the third generation, after her father Dominique and uncle Michel, to take the reins at Domaine Antonin Guyon in Savigny-lès-Beaune, just north of Beaune.

It transpires that she was instrumental – alongside Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Aubert de Villaine – in the successful bid to have Burgundy’s climats (its many long-established and specifically defined parcels of vines) inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015, heading up the communications and engaging local stakeholders.

‘It was a truly transformative experience,’ she says. ‘Witnessing the collective effort to protect and recognise our land gave me a profound sense of purpose.’

But she has been deeply shaped by this land in other ways, too.

The Guyon family has 48ha of vineyard holdings in 25 appellations across the Côte d’Or – unusually extensive for a family-owned domaine in Burgundy. She reels them off fluently, from north to south.

Hombeline’s grandfather Antonin built his eponymous domaine in the 1960s. Over 10 years, he amassed impressive holdings, from Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny down to Corton, Volnay, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.

When Dominique joined in the 1970s, he carried out his own remarkable feat – buying up 350 plots, from 80 different owners, to create a single, 22ha block of vines on a south-facing hillside in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.

This was the start of an additional domaine, Domaine Dominique Guyon, an early pioneer in what was once an overlooked sub-region.

An uncertain path

As an only child raised by her father, Hombeline spent much of her youth alone with him – at the domaine, out at restaurants, listening deeply and observing intently.

‘He spoke to me all the time, about everything,’ she says. ‘I knew everything about the domaine, everything about what he wanted to do.’

She absorbed it all. She knew that he wanted her to join the domaine eventually, but he didn’t lay down a path for her, or tell her how to go about it; it was never prescriptive. ‘I had to figure it out on my own, and I feel stronger for that,’ she says.

She travelled to Japan, China and the US, working across different areas of the wine business, before returning to Burgundy and eventually joining the domaine in 2014.

Although it was far from easy at the beginning – ‘My father is very smart, elegant, charismatic, with a strong personality, but he didn’t show me how to do things’ – there is now a mutual recognition of each other’s talents and strengths.

Alongside her father and long-time cellar master Vincent Nicot, who retired last year, Hombeline began to draw a more open exchange out of these two smart, sensible, but traditional men.

She says that they began to take much more time for tasting – more frequently and for longer periods – and she feels that the three of them learning (or re-learning) how to taste together, and to listen to each other, made them a stronger team.

Hombeline also feels that she has brought a lightness of touch to the wines, with less extraction (fewer pumpovers and more rack and return).

They’ve reduced the percentage of new oak and are being less formulaic in their vinification and maturation, and more reactive and precise.

Supporting creativity

Despite her entry into the domaine not being completely laid out for her, and despite being a woman in a male-dominated sphere, Hombeline feels that no one should have to fight to find their place.

She says it’s more about recognising each individual’s talents, and that ultimately people want to feel secure and recognised.

She’s also conscious, as a mother of three herself now, of what it meant for her father to raise a daughter alone while running an estate.

She carries her inherited responsibilities lightly, but there might have been another path: being a journalist, drawn from her love of people and sense of justice.

But running the domaine offers something equally enriching, allowing her creative side to bloom, ‘which is good for the wines and the domaine, but also for me – as a woman, a mother and a daughter’.

She feels that this is a job that requires much humanity and humility.

‘You have to be humble with nature; you have to think with your heart,’ she says, embracing and embodying the multifaceted role of daughter, mother, woman – and child of Burgundy.

One Guyon to try

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Just south of medieval Chambéry in Savoie, in eastern France, Apremont takes its name from either the Latin asper montis (‘rough mountain’) or the French après mont (‘after the mountain’).

That mountain is Mont Granier, whose imposing limestone wall dominates the Combe de Savoie, a 40km valley that runs southwest to northeast across the centre of the Savoie region.

Granier’s story is one of catastrophe and renewal, and the alpine wines from its slopes express its layered history.

On the night of 24 November 1248, a massive section of Mont Granier’s limestone cliff face collapsed – one of Europe’s largest recorded landslides. Five villages were buried beneath millions of tonnes of rock, with one account from a travelling monk claiming 5,000 perished.

For centuries, the landscape remained a mostly barren pile of rubble. Eventually, Savoyard farmers found that grapes – especially the native white Jacquère – were the only crop that would take root in the stony soil.

Today, Apremont’s vineyards grow atop the remnants of the mountain and the villages buried beneath.

Jacquère, Savoie’s little-known white workhorse, is grown across the region but is the signature grape of Apremont, where it produces pale, crystalline whites with delicate floral notes, a whisper of gunflint minerality and bright citrus and lychee – all carried by an airy, saline freshness.

If you love Muscadet’s oyster-shell minerality or crisp Chablis, Apremont offers something similar but distinctly alpine.

The better expressions taste like melted snow scraped from a mountain crag, with a squeeze of lemon and a scattering of white flowers.

Pale green, they’re light but not watery, with a mineral texture and a clean, salivating finish. Like most Savoie wines, they naturally hover around 11% alcohol.

Time travel

I first fell for Apremont on a summer trip to lake Annecy, a jewel of the French Alps.

After days hiking above and swimming in the turquoise waters (it’s the cleanest lake in Europe), we enjoyed the local whites with Savoie’s signature cheeses: Reblochon, Beaufort and Tomme de Savoie.

I soon developed an affinity for Apremont’s minerally whites, which are very affordable, unpretentious and speak clearly of time and place.

The affinity grew when I returned to visit the hillside vineyards and villages, which feel like stepping back into both old France and geological time. Apremont is Savoie’s largest sub-regional designation, yet it remains little known beyond the region – or even within France.

But that’s changing as wine lovers seek lighter styles and indigenous varieties, with Savoie being touted as ‘the next Jura’.

These wines pair brilliantly with the region’s famous alpine dishes – fondue, raclette, lake fish – but they’re equally at home with oysters and grilled seafood, or simply as an aperitif.

The story of Apremont reminds us that beauty and renewal can emerge from disaster. It also reminds us how fragile everything is – how a mountain can fall, how quickly life can change.

Where catastrophe once struck, vines now thrive, producing some of France’s most delicate and distinctive whites.

Born on a fallen mountain, these are wines shaped by stone and best enjoyed with a feeling of gratitude.

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I was chatting to a winemaker recently over dinner, and I confided in him an insecurity of mine.

I explained that while I didn’t normally find it difficult to describe the style of any given Rhône vintage, I found it peculiarly challenging to succinctly summarise that of 2022.

‘Don’t worry,’ he said. ‘I feel the same way.’ It helped put my mind at rest. But I’m still determined to get to grips with this slippery customer.

In any given year, wines tend to perform rather like flocks of birds or shoals of fish: there might be smaller sub-groups or individual outliers, but the majority move in the same direction to create a general vintage style.

The 2022, however, is unusually chaotic.

The season

Lewis Bungener of Clos de Caveau says ‘2022 was a very particular vintage – one that initially caused real concern.’

Between 15 October 2021 and 1 September 2022, just 300mm of rain fell in the southern Rhône, compared to an average of 600mm.

Combined with the intense heat (it was the hottest May on record) many vines simply shut down and stopped growing in order to conserve water.

‘The rain that eventually came in late summer changed everything,’ says Bungener.

‘The effect was extraordinary: what had threatened to become heavy wines with dry, harsh tannins found an incredible balance, gaining freshness and definition. That said, producers who misjudged maturity timings did still suffer.’

Cécile Dusserre of Domaine de Montvac agrees, saying: ‘We had two nights of rain on 7 and 8 September, and we finished harvesting on 14 September.’

Rain at harvest can cause grapes to rot, but conditions had been so hot and dry, the water was welcome.

‘It allowed for a more relaxed juice and lowered the concentration of the berries,’ says Dusserre.

Though controlled irrigation is permitted in Vacqueyras, it was gratifying to see that some of the best wines this year were produced by estates that don’t water their vines, such as Domaine de Montvac, Domaine Montirius and Domaine la Monardière.

It proves that even in very dry years, Vacqueyras can still produce excellent wines, which bodes well for an uncertain future.

The tasting

These extreme conditions created a series of obstacles and pitfalls that vignerons were forced to navigate. Not everyone succeeded.

The year started with a huge abundance of grapes. Those who failed to drop fruit often struggled to eventually ripen all their berries, ending up with green, unripe flavours.

The lack of rain during the growing season produced very small berries, with little juice but thick skins. For some, excessive extraction led to tough tannins.

Intense heat can cause many problems, and some wines suffered from high alcohol – though not as many as I expected. Instances of low acidity or pruney fruit were thankfully rare.

And finally, some wines failed to make the grade simply due to excessive oak. Layering oak tannins on top of robust fruit tannins produced some inelegant, clunky wines.

But many producers managed to sidestep some or all these potential snares to create wines of balance and drinkability.

The verdict

Having had a few years in bottle to come together, many are now looking better than they did from barrel – both whites and reds.

I felt happy to recommend around half the wines I tasted, and they are featured below.

And many of those who did succeed really excelled.

As Bungener says: ‘The vintage across the region produced a mixed picture but for those who managed the conditions well, 2022 produced wines of real distinction: a rare combination of richness and fullness alongside finesse and freshness.’

This tasting helped me to understand this confounding year. The key is this: the best wines excel despite the vintage, not because of it.

The best Vacqueyras 2022 wines in bottle

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Other than the island of Corsica, I barely knew where I was. A last-minute invite, a skimmed itinerary.

All I knew was: if you're invited to the Île de Beauté – in January or any time of year – you say yes.

Flying south, I left the torpor of a Paris winter and arrived in Bonifacio. It sounds Italian because Corsica was indeed part of Italy far longer than France.

At the airport I received a text from my brother in LA: ‘Just watch your back,’ with a link to some breaking news.

Earlier that day, a Corsican man was taken out by a sniper while attending his mother’s funeral at a village church.

A member of a rival mafia ring, he'd been living in exile in Nicaragua, and only travelled back for the funeral. The Île de Beauté is as edgy as it is beautiful.

Edges, after all, are where the drama of life happens. Where one thing ends and another begins, where exposure is total and forces intersect.

A landscape of rock and wind

On the island's southern tip, wind blasts this mountain in the sea from three sides.

At the Bouches de Bonifacio, the narrow strait separating Corsica from Sardinia, wind is not a passing weather event so much as a permanent condition.

Leaning into it atop the limestone cliffs that plunge into the azure sea, you sense the same elemental energy that flows through the wines of Corsica's wild edge.

Corsica is less an island than a granite rock emerging from the sea. The strait of Bonifacio is the windiest stretch of the Mediterranean, and the luminous island rivals anywhere in France for sunshine.

Almost a quarter of the island sits above 1,000m, with more than 20 peaks exceeding 2,000m.

This extreme juxtaposition means you could swim in the morning and ski in the afternoon.

Vines trace the valleys and steep slopes of granitic, schist and limestone soils, amid native cork oaks, olives and the dense, fragrant maquis – Corsica's version of southern France's garrigue.

Herds of handsome, bell-clanging Corsican goats roam the craggy hills, kept in check by magnificent local dogs called Cursinu.

Hawks and seabirds ride the currents of deliciously fresh, salt-laden air.

Although tired when I arrived, I was immediately energised by the bright sun, 20-degree mid-January temperature and almost unbearable beauty.

Part of it, too, was an oceanic atmosphere charged with negative ions.

The chemistry of the sea

Southern Corsica's constant sea breeze not only tempers the sun and heat exposure of the vines, the air circulation keeping them free of disease and allowing almost every vineyard to be organic, but also carries an abundance of negative ions – atoms or molecules with more electrons than protons – generated as the chemical bonds of water molecules are broken through the crashing of waves, the endless movement of the sea, and the dispersion of saltwater by the wind.

Similar to the refreshing sensation experienced near waterfalls, or even a good shower, coastal air is charged with these particles, which a substantial body of scientific research demonstrates has health benefits such as improved mood and increased energy levels.

A walk on the beach or dip in the sea is nature’s best anti-depressant.

More than terroir

In wine, we spend too much time looking down, limiting the discussion of terroir to what's underground.

In Corsica, the eye is inevitably drawn up and out.

Here, the landscape itself argues that airoir and méroir – the elemental forces of air and sea – deserve a place in the conversation alongside soil and sun.

Oceanic influences, arriving from three sides, are clearly imprinted on Corsica's three southern appellations – Corse Porto-Vecchio, Corse Figari and Corse Sartène. Here you don't find sun-baked Mediterranean wines, but those with edge.

The appellations of southern Corsica

In Corse Porto-Vecchio, Corsica's smallest appellation, vines cling to arid limestone and granite hillsides, facing the sea and battered by the winds.

At Domaine Torraccia, the flagship Oriu rouge – a blend of Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu – marries power and precision.

The Alligria Blanc – a barrel-fermented Vermentinu – nods toward white Burgundy yet speaks its own tongue.

Domaine de Granajolo's Le J cuvée takes a similar path – structured, textural Vermentinu built to last.

At Domaine de Solenzara, mother and daughter Fabienne and Victoria Lucchini make wonderfully salty, electric Vermentinu and rosé from granite hills that drop into the sea.

Moving south to the Corse Figari appellation, the landscape becomes more open and exposed, the cork oaks, olives, maquis and vines appearing as wind-sculpted bonsais.

Planted five centuries before Christ, it's Corsica’s oldest winescape, still home to forgotten varieties that thrive on limestone and granite despite the harsh conditions.

The quality level is extremely high across the nine producers in the appellation – Domaine de Tanella, Domaine de Peretti della Rocca and Domaine Nicolai among the standouts.

But Clos Canarelli is the revelation of the south – perhaps of all Corsica.

The crispy-crunchy grape

East of Figari, the star of the Corse Sartène appellation is the grape called Sciaccarellu, whose name means ‘crispy-crunchy between the teeth’.

These pale ruby reds display extraordinary aromatic intensity: concentrated red berries, white pepper, wild herbs.

Sartène's granite soils lend structure and depth to the grape’s natural silkiness, producing graceful, age-worthy island reds.

The rosés are equally compelling – vibrant, precise and beguilingly aromatic, made mostly from Sciaccarellu with occasional additions of native whites such as the rare Genovese or Biancu Gentile.

Standout producers include Domaine Castellu di Baricci and Domaine Saparale.

My Parisian neighbours told me 'everything the Corsicans touch turns to gold' – and the vineyards, wines, and wineries of the south speak to that.

As does the charcuterie they pride themselves on, and even the incredible oranges they serve as dessert.

With its own grapes, culture and conditions, Corsica isn’t trying to be Burgundy or Barolo – it’s not quite France, not quite Italy, but an island unto itself.

An island where wind sings through elemental wines from the wild edge of a mountain in the sea.

The producers to know in southern Corsica:

• Buzzo Bunifazziu
• Clos Canarelli
• Domaine Andriella
• Domaine Castellu di Baricci
• Domaine de Granajolo
• Domaine de Peretti della Rocca
• Domaine de Piscia Finidori
• Domaine de Solenzara
• Domaine de Tanella
• Domaine Nicolai
• Domaine Saparale
• Domaine Torraccia

11 wild Corsican wines to try

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Georgie Hindle, Arthur Coggill and Tom King tasted 147 wines, with 3 Exceptional, 32 Outstanding and 98 Highly recommended.

147 wines tasted

Exceptional 3

Outstanding 32

Highly recommended 98

Recommended 14

Commended 0

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their grand vin Pomerol and St-Emilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé or 1er Grand Cru Classé wines from the 2020 vintage

'There wasn’t a wine I didn’t like,’ remarked Tom King after what proved to be one of Decanter’s most successful panel tastings in recent memory, with an extraordinary 35 wines rated Outstanding or above from 147 tasted – clear evidence of the strength and consistency of the 2020 vintage in St-Emilion and Pomerol.

The two-day blind tasting confirmed the quality across the board. Arthur Coggill summed it up neatly: ‘2020 is a homogeneously good vintage in Bordeaux – these are wines you can go and buy with confidence.’

The judges found no outright failures; ‘We didn’t actually find a bad wine,’ he added.

The growing season in 2020 was defined by an unusually early start, extreme heatwaves and the driest summer since 1959 (until the 2022 vintage).

Merlot, the dominant variety on the Right Bank, ripened beautifully under these conditions, yet the wines showed surprising restraint.

Alcohol levels and oak influence were far more moderate than the judges had feared; there were no overworked wines, instead freshness and balance prevailed. Differences between the appellations stood out clearly.

Pomerol offered greater consistency, especially at the lower end, producing plush and fleshy wines that remained faithful to their charming, fruit-forward signature.

‘Pomerol is just a bit more generous,’ observed Coggill. St-Emilion was more diverse and patchy at the entry level, with ‘more mediocre, but not necessarily bad wines’, Coggill noted – largely a reflection of its greater size and varied terroirs.

Yet at the top end, its wines frequently displayed superior elegance and finesse, outperforming Pomerol in poise and length.

St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé estates performed strongly, as expected, but Pomerol’s broader success across all price tiers was particularly striking.

Ready to go

The drinkability of these wines is a major strength. Many are already highly approachable – ‘happy wines’, as King put it, that will perform well by the glass in restaurants or on the table at home today.

The judges agreed that roughly half the wines felt ready to drink now, while the remainder offer excellent cellaring potential thanks to bright acidity, concentrated fruit and structured tannins.

King highlighted the ‘velvety’ texture of the Pomerols and their surprising accessibility: ‘There was not much in Pomerol at least that I would say has to be kept.’

Prices reflect the fine-wine status of these appellations; very few of the top-scoring bottles sit comfortably under £30, even in bond (before duty and VAT), indeed the very best top £50.

Yet within this category many represent excellent value, offering the immediate pleasure of a great vintage alongside the structure to evolve magnificently over the next 20-30 years.

Overall, the judges described 2020 as a ‘cracking vintage’ of good-to-excellent wines that offer a combination of generosity and restraint.

For drinkers seeking reliable, characterful Right Bank Bordeaux that can be enjoyed young or cellared with confidence, 2020 delivers in spades.

See all the notes and scores from the St-Emilion and Pomerol 2020 tasting here

The judges

St-Emilion & Pomerol 2020 tasting results

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Earlier this year at the Millésime Bio organic wine fair in Montpellier, I tasted with Pierre Caizergues of Pierre & Antonin, a micro-négociant based in Malepère on Languedoc’s western frontier.

I’ll admit it was the wine labels that first caught my eye – frolicking foxes and unapologetically bright colours (I have a soft spot for foxes, especially the urban ones that have adopted my small London garden), but other aspects soon piqued my interest beyond the aesthetic charm: lightweight bottles, organic viticulture, minimal sulphur, indigenous yeasts – and, most strikingly, disease-resistant grape varieties.

Embracing hybrid grapes

Although they’re both from Languedoc, Pierre and his business partner Antonin Bonnet met in New York in 2010 while working in sales. After a decade of fermenting ideas, they returned to France and launched Pierre & Antonin in 2020.

Initially, they worked with a mix of classic varieties and hybrids. Gradually, though, they’ve shifted almost entirely to disease-resistant grapes such as Souvignier Gris, Cabernet Cortis, Artaban and Floréal, making red, white, rosé, orange and pét-nat wines.

They persuaded a small collective of growers to plant small plots, guaranteeing to buy the fruit.

Now their aim is to explore the potential of these hybrid grapes – showing that the wines can be made with minimal intervention, but can also be delicious and, crucially, affordable.

Vibrant, well-priced wines to be opened and shared

How can these factors be achieved? Due to the hybrids’ resistance to downy and powdery mildew, the cost of treatment products and labour are much lower and the lightweight bottles (only 370g) not only reduce carbon emissions during transport, but are also cheaper.

In a region where margins are tight and climate pressure is intensifying, these savings are no small consideration. And the elimination of fungicides means that fermentations start easily, so it’s easy to rely on indigenous yeasts.

The result is wines that are vibrant, unfussy, fruity, low in alcohol and well priced – bottles designed to be opened and shared rather than cellared.

This is arguably the ideal region to plough this furrow – the stakes aren’t as high as they would be in Beaune or Châteauneuf-du-Pape, say, and land is cheaper.

Later, I kept thinking back to how Pierre had referred to the hybrid grapes as ‘resistants’. In my mind this rang out as ‘resistance’.

There’s an undeniable semantic link – resistants/resistance – and the implications are strong. The word ‘resistance’ carries a lot of weight, but what does it mean in this context?

The wine world is at an uneasy juncture, so this is about resistance not only against vine disease, but against shifting tastes, climate chaos and economic volatility.

And then there’s resistance in the form of resilience and adaptation – not accepting that sustainability inevitably makes wine more expensive and less accessible. Opening a wine made from disease-resistant varieties is in itself an act of resistance.

Antonin believes that hybrids will be part of the future of wine – that they’ll be, at least in part, tomorrow’s answer to climate change.

‘There are masters of Syrah,’ he says. ‘There are many masters of Pinot Noir all over the world.’ But who will be the masters of Souvignier Gris, Cabernet Cortis and Floréal? Perhaps we’re about to find out.

Sip to make a difference

Souvignier Gris was Pierre and Antonin’s gateway grape. Alongside the still white Pierre & Antonin, Petit Sauvage Blanc, Languedoc, France 2025 (91pts, £17 Vindependents), they also make a pét-nat and a skin-maceration wine with it.

‘We love Souvignier Gris so much that we made it three ways,’ says Pierre. It’s bright and zesty, with fresh acidity, tropical fruit, some spice and a cool minty note, bringing great refreshment to sun-filled days.

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Look up: we’ve got a revolution on our hands. The old order’s being swept away. No more steady state: for the first time in human history, significant decade-on-decade change is permanent, structural and accelerating.

Climate is now a rocket. Wine-growers (whose plants and products measure its effects with great exactitude) sit in the cockpit, seatbelts fastened. They’ll need them.

Hotter, colder, wetter, drier, windier, spikier, more violent: that’s tomorrow. Growers need to be alert, responsive, flexible – to retreat where necessary, but also to seize new chances and opportunities when they present.

Here’s an example of chance seized. It’s a sparsely populated, barely planted corner of the high Languedoc, way beyond the reach of any existing appellation. It had no wine distinction in the past – yet now it’s producing some of France’s most exciting new whites.

Cédric Guy of Domaine de Bon Augure is prime mover in this story. Faugères born and bred, he worked from 1995 with the Bouchard family at Abbaye Sylva Plana. From 10ha, Sylva Plana (certified organic since 2008) expanded to 54ha, a hotel and a restaurant. But Cédric had a dream: to make white wine, which he felt was ‘impossible’ in the heat of Faugères.

He searched – and found mountain vineyards (450m-600m) 40 minutes north, in the Monts d’Avène sector of the IGP Haute Vallée de l’Orb, planted with Chardonnay – to which he added Petit Manseng, Petite Arvine and other varieties. ‘Initially, I was happy if the must got to 11% or 11.5%. Wines with high levels of acidity weren’t much in demand 20 years ago, so I made sparkling wines.’

The rocket, though, had lifted off. Cédric sold his share of Sylva Plana in 2013 when his mountain- vineyard alcohols moved past 12% towards 13%; he switched to still wines.

‘It’s not politically correct to say it and I don’t want the planet to suffer, but the climate is now extremely favourable to producing great white wines here. We have lots of rain; we can preserve acidity; we have enough juice so the musts aren’t too concentrated.’

It was early April when I visited; Bourgogne had been fighting late-March frosts. ‘When I saw pictures of their vines,’ said Cédric, ‘I could see leaves. We still have sleeping buds. We have time lag that works at both ends of the season.’

I’m not a fan of ‘tight’, high-acid, low-alcohol wines... when they’re the result of early picking, of anxiety and adjustment, of peer-group pressure and media proselytising. The wines of Bon Augure, from vines immaculately tended on often steep, limestone breccia soils just north of the village of Joncels, aren’t like that. Their acidities are astonishing: tingling, zesty, energetic, dancing with flavour in their arms; you know that this acidity will settle, fill, convince and satisfy with time in the bottle.

Nothing is raw or uncovered here: there’s sap, sinew and wealth of flavour behind, together with the quiet aromatic allusions that recall natural landscapes.

Bon Augure produces four principal wines: a pure-Chardonnay ‘en terre étrangère’; the sculpted Chardonnay-Petit Manseng blend ‘Joncs-cella’; a mouthwatering and vivacious, amber-tinted skin-contact wine based on trois gris (Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Gris, Grenache Gris) called ‘Aux innocents les mains pleines’; and the dense, finely crafted DSLS Petite Arvine.

All are world- class. Note the varietal width: another good sign. There’s convincing Pinot and Cornalin, too.

Cédric isn’t alone. A local charity called Les Compagnons du Sens, led by a charismatic retired monk called Frère Marie-Pâques, has been helping younger growers set up in the Haute Vallée de l’Orb. Domaines to look out for include Angel Montgros, Bòria Bissio, Gravezon, Jouvet, Mas des Mesures, Peira Clara and Saint Antonin.

Monts d’Avène will appear on labels of IGP Haute Vallée de l’Orb from vintage 2025 for wines made from limestone-grown, barrel-fermented Chardonnay; it may eventually win an AP. If everything hasn’t changed by then.

In my glass this month

Bon Augure’s 2024 ‘en terre étrangère’ (pure Chardonnay from the domaine’s highest vineyards, part-barrel fermented in old oak, with full malolactic) is inspiring, assured wine.

Its spring- garden freshness suggests both plants and flowers; it’s complete on the tongue. You can’t escape the often-overused descriptors salt and stone here, once the acrobatic acidity has come down off its high trapeze and the applause is subsiding. Taste it and believe. (Via UK importer Saison Wines)

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Most wine lovers would dream of having a cellar so capacious you could lose 18 bottles of Champagne in it.

Lyonnais chef, and French national treasure, Paul Bocuse, did exactly that, though.

Tucked away, forgotten in a corner of his restaurant’s cellar, were 18 bottles of Ruinart 1926, bought to celebrate the year of Bocuse’s birth.

The story of how these wines were tasted for the first time outside the maison is one marked with poignancy, though.

Not only were the wines only discovered after Bocuse’s death in 2018, but the dream to generously open some with friends of the maison belonged, originally, to Fréderic Panaïotis, the Ruinart Chef de Cave who tragically passed away in 2025.

Panaïotis and Bocuse tasted two bottles together, reporting a ‘remarkable’ wine of 'ripe fruit, apricot, candied lemon and candied orange' according to the house’s new Chef de Cave, Caroline Fiot.

An unexpected boon

Their discovery comes as a boon to the house, whose library is a little thin on older vintages, explained Fiot.

‘When Fred heard about the 1926 bottles it was big news because it is the oldest vintage stored in our cellars,’ she explained.

‘After the Second World War we only had 10,000 bottles left in the cellars because of all the wines that were taken by the German Army. Afterwards the philosophy was to sell the wines, not to keep them.’

At the time, there was no Dom Ruinart or Blanc de Blancs, arguably the most famous wines of the house today.

In fact, the concept of ‘prestige’ Champagnes did not really exist, and Ruinart’s main offering was, as was common in Champagne, restricted to a non vintage and – as discovered here – a vintage.

With little information available, Fiot was not sure exactly what the 1926 contained by way of a blend or ageing time.

Panaïotis did some laboratory analysis which showed the ripeness at harvest was an impressively ripe one, likely 'between 9.5 and 10 degrees' of potential alcohol at harvest, with the final release dosed at 17 g/l of sugar – dry for the time, but above today’s ‘Brut’ category.

A daring feat – fresh disgorgements

After the second fermentation in bottle, Champagnes rest for a number of years before being ‘disgorged’ – having the dead yeast removed.

It is a process which oxygenates and provokes ageing, both positive but ultimately potentially negative, in the wine.

Before disgorgement, though, the wine being ‘on lees’ can hold the evolution in check quite profoundly.

Save for the 1926 which was an original release, disgorged and dosed back in the 1930s, most of the wines were disgorged the very morning of the tasting.

Chef de Cave Caroline Fiot clearly senses the excitement of the moment as a small group is gathered at the maison to taste through a selection of Ruinart vintages ending with ‘6’, heading backwards from 2016 all the way to 1926.

'I am tasting these for the first time, with you!' she remarked.

The decision to pour fresh disgorgements of the older wine paid off, especially with a stunning 1956 which confounded even the most experienced Champagne tasters among us with its scarcely believable youthfulness.

By keeping these bottles undisgorged up until the moment of tasting, though, Ruinart rolled the dice – there’s no chance to add dosage, to prepare more like a ‘commercial’ release of the library wines.

We were tasting them completely naked, fresh, woken abruptly from their slumber.

Still, the technical hurdles for these wines to tackle to render drinkable, let alone enjoyable, wines for many, many decades longer than their creators would have imagined are considerable.

A moment a century in the making

A few – such as the 1966 – didn’t quite make it, victims in some cases of oxidation or degradation during the lees ageing stage.

Others, such as 1996 or 1986, were sound yet at points where the strengths of the vintages were starting to be outweighed by the weaknesses.

Anyone lucky enough to enjoy such bottles as the 1926, 1956 and 1976 will take the lows, though, to experience the highs; and this was a tasting where the most venerable bottles were the stars.

As we reached the 1926, Fiot was feeling the pressure – quite literally – as the foil was gingerly removed and the original cork gently prised out.

'Will we get a ‘pop?' she wondered.

The answer was as most expected, no. Pressure drops as Champagne ages, and this journey was simply too long.

What the wine absolutely wasn’t, though, was dead; yes, there is overt oxidation, yes plenty of sherry-type aromatics, yes the sort of flavours that, in a younger wine would evidently be considered flaws.

What there was, though, was life. Drinking pleasure. To someone lucky enough to have tasted many Champagnes of half its age rich in complexity, yet devoid of such essential drinkability, the 1926 was an unforgettable experience.

Will the current 2016 live quite as long?

As a very small release in Ruinart’s portfolio, few outside France even get to taste this cuvée.

What this tasting proved beyond doubt was that quality, and ageability, make it one worth hunting down.

Old Ruinart from 2016 to 1926

Wines are listed from youngest to oldest

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The cool climate and wide-open spaces of Burgundy’s Hautes-Côtes make it the next big thing.

The Hautes-Côtes region of Burgundy oozes charm, with its rolling hillsides populated by more cows than people and tiny villages strung together by country roads that weave through dramatic hillsides most visitors never see.

The wines, too, are easy to love: crisp, clean whites, and structured, sometimes slightly rustic reds that recall the Burgundy of an earlier era.

The Hautes-Côtes has long been a dreamy country idyll, a respite from the excitement of the mainline Burgundy villages.

Today, however, with its ‘Horizon Hautes-Côtes’ initiative, the Burgundy wine establishment is trying to make the Hautes-Côtes the next big thing.

A recent press conference about the initiative highlighted some surprising facts: more than 1,800 hectares are currently planted here, and another 2,600 hectares that are classified for AOC wine have not yet been planted.

These cooler, high-altitude sites offer an increasingly attractive profile as global warming accelerates.

With the weight of the BIVB behind it, this appellation may be the wave of the future.

Where are the Hautes-Côtes?

The term Hautes-Côtes refers to the high-altitude slopes west of the main Côte d’Or, mainly at elevations between 300-460 metres, a region that had far more vines in the early 19^th century than it does today.

When the vineyards were replanted after the phylloxera epidemic, however, many growers planted grapes for making inexpensive wines, where yield, not quality, was the objective.

The effect was that wine production was at a nadir from the end of the 19th century until after WWII.

Although the regional appellation Bourgogne was codified in 1937, the distinction of a separate appellation for the Hautes-Côtes did not occur until 1961.

The region is large, spread across 47 villages that produce an average of nearly 9 million bottles of red, white, and rosé wine.

The Hautes-Côtes de Beaune are stretches across the hills from Corton down to Maranges, south of Santenay.

The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is more compact, confined to the hills above the southern portion of the Côte de Nuits from Chambolle-Musigny to Nuits-Saint-Georges. One village, Magny-lès-Villers, is split between the two appellations.

Coming to grips with this vast expanse can be daunting. The first exposure for many are the delicious cuvées made by well-known growers in the mainline Côte d’Or, such as Anne Gros, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Thibault Liger-Belair, Emmanuel Rouget, Sylvain Cathiard, and Etienne Sauzet.

Domaine Leflaive has planted vines in the Hautes-Côtes, and even Domaine de la Romanée-Conti tried their hand at it, vinifying several vintages of grapes grown at the Abbaye Saint-Vivant de Vergy before the vines were pulled up.

Building an identity

As the region grows collectively, however, there is with relatively little name recognition for individual villages.

As head of the Hautes-Côtes growers union, Nicolas Thévenot, points out, there are important differences.

He says: 'Every valley is a separate terroir; there are sites that a very steep and others that are on a plateau.

'Many vines are planted on clay and limestone soils similar to those found at lower elevations in the Côte d'Or, although it is also possible to have granite soils in the south near Maranges. The one common element is the elevation.’

Despite the distinctiveness, however, there is still work to be done to gain recognition, particularly in export markets, where négociant houses will often buy grapes that qualify as Hautes-Côtes but sell them as a simple Bourgogne.

Others, however, are highlighting the advantages of the Hautes-Côtes, including Laurent Delaunay, co-president of the BIVB and head of Maison Edouard Delaunay, based at the Château de Chaumont in l'Étang-Vergy above Nuits-Saint-Georges.

Fickel fame

Most village names in the Hautes-Côtes elicit a blank stare from wine lovers.

One that broke the mould was Saint-Romain, which was once classified with the Hautes-Côtes and is now a stand-alone cru in its own right.

Perhaps the village with the most potential to pull forward is Meloisey, an ancient village with an exciting mix of winemakers, including Denis Carré, Agnès Paquet, Alexandre Parigot, and others.

The current crop of winemakers in this village includes both those at historic domaines and passionate young people starting new properties, something that is still possible in the Hautes-Côtes.

Although few highlight Meloisey per se, many use vineyard names on the label, such as La Perrière.

Other nearby sites include Les Dames Huguettes and En Bully, both located within Nuits-Saint-Georges but classified as Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.

High and wide

One of the most distinctive characteristics of the region is the training system 'haute et large' (high and wide).

The Hautes-Côtes was among the first regions to experiment with this low-density planting system.

The most apparent advantage of the ‘haute et large’ training system is that the vines are less exposed to the danger of frost, which will settle near the base of the vines.

The system also enables a more complete usage of cover crops, is easier to work, and facilitates the use of mechanical harvesters.

It is also thought that if conditions remain dry and hot, the vines will be better able to resist drought stress at lower densities.

Exact statistics on the use of this system are not available, but Nicolas Thévenot, president of the union of Hautes-Côtes winegrowers, estimates that approximately 40-50% of the vines in the Hautes-Côtes are trained in this fashion.

Biodiversity and business

The purpose of the Project Horizon Hautes-Côtes initiative is to manage growth while respecting the region's traditions and biodiversity.

More than 85% of the surface in the wine-producing portions of the Hautes-Côtes is also protected under European law as a Natura 2000 nature preserve, which were established by Brussels to protect endangered species of birds, animals, and plants.

The project is mapping the region from multiple perspectives to ensure sensitive development.

Renowned geologist Françoise Vannier will map the underlying geology and environmental consultant Marc Ouvrié is mapping the climate risks including frost and hail.

The information will be used with Natura 2000 data to protect the environment and target 'smart' development.

The combination of cool, high-elevation sites, room to grow, and an exciting crop of young talent combine to make the Hautes-Côtes one of the premier destinations for top-quality yet still-affordable Burgundy wines.

Wines from Burgundy's Hautes-Côtes

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Heather Dougherty, Lionel Periner and Daphne Teremetz tasted 111 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 37 Highly recommended.

Provence rosé: Panel tasting scores

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 37

Recommended 59

Commended 10

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release rosé wines from any of the APs Côtes de Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Les Baux de Provence, Bandol, Bellet, Cassis, Palette or Pierrevert

'The Bandol region stood out to me'

Provence rosé is a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds, and this tasting treated us to wines ranging in hue from barely coloured, palest blanc de noir, through ‘onion skin’ colour to deep coral pink, reflecting the breadth of styles available.

Nevertheless, the classic Côtes de Provence rosé paradigm of wines that are pale in colour accounted for most of those in this tasting.

When done well, these delicate wines still deliver in terms of flavour. Daphne Teremetz encapsulated what she was looking for as ‘pure, wild strawberry fruit, a creamy-textured palate with a crisp, fresh finish, as well as some delicate fruit flavour on the finish’.

All three judges were expecting consistency, in a style that has come to define the rosé category.

‘Provence rosé has a remarkably consistent identity,’ said Lionel Periner. ‘When people imagine pale, dry rosé, they’re usually picturing Provence.’

A touch of age

Although most Provence rosés are generally destined to be drunk in the summer after they’re made, the fact that four out of five of the wines we rated Outstanding were older vintages shows that, at a certain quality level, there are fine wines being made that age beautifully.

Bandol excelled in this, accounting for two of those five wines scoring 95 or 96 points, flying the flag for often more deeply coloured, ageworthy, gastronomic styles.

Periner expressed his enthusiasm: ‘The Bandol region stood out to me as the most interesting: the wines we tasted showed great freshness in a medium-bodied style, and they would pair beautifully with food.’

The success of Château d’Esclans’ flagship blend Garrus also demonstrated that neither Mourvèdre nor deep colour is a requirement for Provence rosé to age well.

At the other end of the scale, too many wines from the appellations of Coteaux Varois and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence underperformed, showing either a lack of flavour or tartness. In terms of value for money,

Teremetz summed it up: ‘The pricing is far above average – and the best wines absolutely merit that.’

See all notes and scores from the Provence rosé panel tasting

The judges

Provence rosé panel tasting results

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Deep in the Laurent-Perrier cellars, oenologist Constance Delaire stands in front of a row of eerily smooth, flawless tanks installed by Michel Fauconnet, the long-serving predecessor of new cellar master Olivier Vigneron.

‘There are no seams in the steel,’ she says, the tanks glowing like perfect mirrors in the dim light. ‘Michel was so afraid of oxidation that he had them made this way.’

Vigneron strolls in, looking like a man on a mission. ‘Sorry to miss the start, but I have been in the United States for three weeks and the wines require my attention.’

I remember this interaction eight months later, as Vigneron and I sit down in London to mark the release of the latest iteration of Laurent Perrier’s utterly distinct prestige cuvée Grand Siècle.

His admission as we settle in that he is a ‘chef de cave des caves’ – a cellar master of the cellars, as opposed to the media rooms and airport lounges – rings true.

The new release – Itération 27 – marks a year since Vigneron took charge at the family-run house.

Laurent-Perrier’s modern success is built on the legacy of Vigneron’s mentor, Fauconnet, a man very much in the same mould.

‘Every house has a different culture – some cellar masters are more communicator than technician,’ Vigneron says.

‘But here the job is about keeping the idea of what Laurent-Perrier is, to guard the history of the maison as I was trained by Michel, and to keep freshness and elegance – this is my work.’

Kept in reserve

Work, it must be said, is already familiar to Vigneron, who was appointed to the house in 2004 after four years as a winemaking assistant within Laurent-Perrier’s sister house De Castellane, just three years after completing his studies in Reims.

Hailing from Bergères-les-Vertus in the Côte des Blancs, where Vigneron’s wife grows and produces Champagne Perrot-Batteux, Vigneron is the definition of a continuity candidate.

Continuity may be the order of the day, but that doesn’t translate to standing still.

Today’s Champagne winemakers have to deliver consistency in extremes of climate arguably never seen before, relying ever more on their greatest asset – their store of reserve wines, whose varied attributes can complement whatever nature throws up.

‘Knowledge of the reserves is critical to the job,’ says Vigneron, whose cellar after a harvest is made up not just of 700 tanks of that year’s wine, but also a remarkable 300 of reserve wines from previous harvests. All of these must be tasted, assessed and directed to blends or further storage.

For anyone wanting to taste a snapshot of this work, in 2024 Laurent-Perrier released the Héritage cuvée (£65-£80), a wine with a makeup not normally seen in Champagne: 100% reserve wines, with no young base year in the blend.

‘In being all about the reserves, it keeps the spirit of Grand Siècle,’ Vigneron says, although there is ‘more freedom’ to make Héritage than there is with the multi-vintage Grand Siècle that tops the portfolio, which must be a blend of only three vintages.

Two years on from the Héritage release, it has developed beautifully.

‘We’re really seeing the effects of double maturation, first in the reserve tanks and then in the bottles,’ says Vigneron.

The art of the blend

It’s in the Grand Siècle itself, though, that Vigneron’s art reaches its pinnacle. ‘The aim is to recreate the perfect year,’ Vigneron says of the concept that has been in place since 1959, ‘not just to blend together three consecutive vintages.’

In theory only vintages bottled individually as Laurent-Perrier Millésime can be used as ingredients for Grand Siècle (although hawk-eyed fans may spot an outlier in the current release), but even these are kept back as separate components, presenting Vigneron with a highly complex blending task when the decision is made to create an iteration.

Itération 27 contains 65% of the generally sunny and very hot 2015 vintage.

‘Chardonnay had a lot of generosity and needed balancing with vintages of vivacity and tension,’ Vigneron says.

The vintages that make up the blend, 2013 and 2012, seem to elevate the wine far beyond where most 2015 vintages alone can reach. ‘It’s a work of great precision – we can’t force it.’

While the Millésime Brut 2018 bottling (£72-£80), which has also just been released to the market, seems likely to feature in future Grand Siècle iterations, it’s worth noting that Laurent-Perrier didn’t make vintage Champagnes from 2016, 2014, 2013, 2010 or 2009, all of which were widely released by other houses.

It’s a restraint that has served this discreet maison well.

‘The family ownership means there are no obligations,’ Vigneron points out. ‘The wines can lead us.’

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Zareh Mesrobyan, head of wine at Estelle Manor – a luxury hotel and country club with four restaurants, a bar, and a cafe – saw off competition from 28 other sommeliers to claim the coveted title.

This year’s competition was the first UK event hosted by Ruinart’s new cellar master Caroline Fiot, who took over following the untimely passing of her predecessor, Frédéric Panaïotis, last year. The jury was completed by Emma Denney, director of wine at Claridge’s and 2024 challenge winner, and myself, Natalie Earl, representing Decanter.

Second prize was awarded to Joanna Nerantzi, head sommelier at Raffles London at the OWO, while Grace Shih, head of wine at Restaurant St Barts, took third place.

The challenge centres on a blind tasting of four wines, in which participants must assess technical details – intensity, acidity, body, tannin, alcohol, flavour – to make an informed case for a wine’s potential origins, climate, grape variety and winemaking technique.

Correctly identifying the exact wines is a bonus, but not necessarily the goal; what the jury is looking for is the ability to reason precisely, and communicate why their assessment has led them to a particular conclusion.

At a time when answers are available at the touch of a button, the value of that expertise, and of the human connection it enables between sommelier and guest, has never felt more important.

This year’s theme was rosé, with the blind tasting spanning both still and sparkling examples. It served as a reminder that rosé is a category worth taking seriously, pushing participants to think creatively about food matching and the different scenarios in which these styles can be enjoyed at their best.

The wines in the blind tasted were revealed as:

• Nyetimber, Sparkling Rosé, England NV
• Eric Rodez, Rosé Macération Edition 37, Champagne NV
• Gusbourne, Still Rosé, England 2025
• Domaine Tempier, Rosé, Bandol 2025

The competition runs across nine countries around the world, with each national winner earning a four-day educational trip to Champagne, which includes tastings, vineyard visits and masterclasses.

The Ruinart Sommelier Challenge was created in 2010 by Panaïotis alongside the Ruinart winemaking team, with the ambition of building an international training and mentoring programme committed to supporting sommelier wine education.

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It wasn’t the lure of fine bottles that first brought me to the Dordogne almost two decades ago.

This corner of southwest France promises medieval bastides, honey-coloured villages, culinary delicacies such as truffles and foie gras, and even vineyards, but as I mapped out my wine stops before my first trip to the region, it was Bordeaux – its famed neighbour to the west – that occupied most of my attention.

With the exception of Monbazillac, known for its noble sweet wines, Bergerac was hardly on my radar.

Little did I know I would end up falling for a region punching well above its weight. Bergerac offers remarkable value for money with excellent bottles for a fraction of what you’d pay for Bordeaux.

And things continue to improve as producers embrace fresher, more approachable styles while maintaining a commitment to quality and sustainability (roughly 35% of the vineyards are certified organic).

Bergerac: Rich in history

Spanning 10,500ha, Bergerac’s history dates back to Gallo-Roman times. Thanks to its prime position on the banks of the Dordogne river, wine trade flourished in the 13th century.

The region now counts seven sub-zones (Bergerac, Monbazillac, Côtes de Duras, Pécharmant, Montravel, Rosette and Saussignac) covering 10 APs, with everything from zesty whites to handsome reds.

Though predominantly planted with Bordeaux grape varieties, each appellation has its unique character and terroir.

Authentic and worth discovering

In and around the town of Bergerac, the pursuit of the French art de vivre is palpable, especially in summer when festivals and events spotlighting local producers are in full swing.

Whether you’re watching the sun set over Château de Monbazillac or revelling in enchanting landscapes as you cycle past vine-covered hillsides and pretty villages, there’s plenty to prove that this once-overlooked corner of France is an attractive wine destination in its own right.

Top experiences

Quai Cyrano

No better place to hit the ground running than at Quai Cyrano, which is equal parts wine shop, tourist office and wine bar, housed in an attractive building on the banks of the Dordogne in the centre of Bergerac town.

Come here to sample 140 wines (paired with cheese or charcuterie boards) from the different appellations, either on the panoramic riverfront terrace or in the peaceful 17th-century Récollets cloister.

Don’t miss the Rosé Party at the cloister on 10 July and the Rosette Night on the old port on 15 August.

Château de Monbazillac

Before sampling Monbazillac’s silky liquoreux (sweet) wines (perfect when served chilled as an aperitif or paired with a foie gras terrine), step back in time with a visit to the 16th-century castle where you can discover how the region’s golden nectar is made.

Just 15 minutes south of Bergerac, this remarkable historic monument also hosts art exhibitions and the much-anticipated Soirées Paradizillac.

Held every Thursday between 16 July and 13 August, these open-air concerts are a feast for the senses, with wine tastings, Monbazillac-based cocktails, charcuterie boards and spectacular sunsets.

Tickets should be booked in advance via the website.

Hop on a bike

The Monbazillac route is an easy loop through vineyards and small villages. Gentle hills make it a relaxed and scenic ride, ideal for casual cycling and sightseeing (approximately 24km, 2.5 hours).

A little more challenging, the six-hour (82km) Pays des Bastides route is well worth the effort.

You’ll pass by historic villages such as Beaumont, Cadouin, Belves and Monpazier.

Bikes can be rented through MBS Mobility Bike Solution, while Quai Cyrano can provide detailed information and assistance in mapping out the ultimate route.

Discover Duras

The welcoming village of Duras (about 40km southwest of Bergerac town) is well worth a visit.

Spend an afternoon strolling through the charming streets and exploring its 12th-century château before settling in for an aperitif at Chai et Rasade, known for excellent charcuterie and a cellar of more than 200 wines and spirits, including a small selection of Duras wines by the glass.

On Thursday evenings in summer, the village comes alive with its convivial night market, where you can enjoy regional food, wine, live music and dancing.

Must-visit wineries

Domaine du Haut-Pécharmant

If it’s age-worthy, structured reds you’re after, Pécharmant in the northeast has little to envy neighbouring Pomerol.

The south-facing slopes, with soils of gravel, sand and iron-rich clay, benefit from warmer, drier conditions, ideal for producing full-bodied wines with lots of elegance.

The Haut-Pécharmant Prestige cuvée (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec) stands out for its complexity, concentrated fruit and supple, well-integrated tannins.

A natural partner for the region’s robust duck dishes, this wine can easily be kept for up to 15 years.

Château le Tap

In Saussignac, just west of Monbazillac and also known for excellent sweet wines, most winegrowers have rejected chemical farming.

Among them are Olivier and Mireille Roches of Château le Tap, a 15ha estate that has been fully organic since 2007.

Their Bergerac rosé, with aromas of succulent strawberries, delicate floral notes and a lingering minerality, is one to pour alongside duck charcuterie or a goat’s cheese tartine topped with macerated strawberries.

Château Puy-Servain

Montravel, in the far west of the region, on the right bank of the Dordogne, is home to some of the region’s finest whites, and Château Puy-Servain’s Marjolaine is a prime example of how expressive these wines can be.

Made from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon planted on clay-limestone soils, this elegant cuvée is the brainchild of the spirited Daniel Hecquet (named Winemaker of the Year 2026 by the French publication Guide Hachette des Vins).

It merges freshness and citrus notes with floral aromas and a subtly textured mouthfeel thanks to five months in French oak.

Eating and drinking

Les Fresques

Located in Monestier, about 25 minutes from Bergerac, the Michelin one-star Les Fresques is part of a hotel set within the 16th-century Château des Vigiers. Chef Didier Casaguana’s artful dishes are matched by an extensive wine list with roughly 20 regional selections.

Try the signature oyster and caviar with Château Haut Bernasse’s Arcane cuvée. Made with a touch of Chenin, it opens with notes of white flowers, citrus and green apple.

Its creamy texture and subtle barrel-derived richness beautifully complement the fromage blanc sorbet, while its vibrant edge enhances the oyster’s salinity.

La Tour des Vents

Book a table on the terrace at Michelin one-star La Tour des Vents and order the three-course ‘Gourmand’ menu (€75) – with wine pairings (€53) if you’re feeling indulgent – while taking in sweeping views over the lush countryside.

A standout dish is the roast pigeon supreme, served with crispy leg, truffled Jerusalem artichoke purée, Brussels sprout leaves and reduction jus.

Pair it with Domaine Albert de Conti’s Côtes de Bergerac Chez Paul, a structured Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of violets, black fruits and fine, dusty tannins.

Le Chamoine

For something a little more budget-friendly, Le Chamoine (a two-minute walk from Quai Cyrano) serves classic Périgord cuisine, including magret and other duck dishes, alongside African-inspired specials such as a hearty Senegalese poulet mafé and even excellent fish and chips.

There’s also a small but thoughtfully curated selection of Bergerac wines.

L’Anthonnoir

Owner, sommelier and Bergerac native Anthony Guire offers more than 130 wines by the glass (including a good selection of Bergerac wines) served with cheese and charcuterie platters.

Where to stay

Les Gabarres apartment

You’ll feel like a local when you rent this bright apartment right in the centre of town.

It’s a treat to cook with fresh local produce from the Wednesday or Saturday morning market in the spacious kitchen, complete with a large island where you can sip wine while taking in the gorgeous views of the Dordogne.

Château les Merles

Tucked between the vineyards and just a 15-minute drive from Bergerac’s centre, this four-star hotel also offers apartments, villas and even a golf course.

At the gastronomic restaurant, chef Bas Holten cooks dishes with organic produce from his vegetable garden.

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Readers of this column might remember a story about Château L’Ermite d’Auzan in Costières de Nîmes, and how it successfully uses homemade essential oils instead of copper to fight disease.

It turns out this isn’t the only example of how this Southern Rhône appellation is a hotbed of experimentation.

Producers are trialling a raft of new varieties and fresh approaches in the vineyard.

Once considered a brackish backwater, Costières de Nîmes is fast becoming one of the most dynamic appellations in the Rhône.

Rhône-sur-Mer

Costières de Nîmes is one of the 11 Rhône Valley appellations that surround the central southern Côtes-du-Rhône growing area.

Though considered part of the Rhône family, all have an independent appellation rulebook and unique character.

The word costières means ‘little hills’, and this pebbly coastal appellation is made up of several vast banks of galets roulés.

It borders the Camargue regional nature park, with its wild horses, bulls and flamingos. It shares some soils and grapes with Châteauneuf to the north, but it feels like a different world.

Despite the quality of some of the wines, I’ve always detected something of an inferiority complex when visiting.

But a recent visit by legendary ‘oenogeologist’ Georges Truc [please link] has given local growers confidence in their terroir.

Cyril Marès of Mas Carlot says, ‘it helped cure our imposter syndrome’.

Viva la VIFA

The Rhône Valley has more grapes than most regions to play with, but that’s not stopping them from testing out some new ones – mainly to combat disease and climate change.

These are known as VIFAs (short for Variétés d'Intérêt à Fin d'Adapatation.)

Several Rhône appellations are doing this. The main AOC Côtes-du-Rhône, for example, is trying out whites Carignan Blanc, Floréal, Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) and red Vidoc.

I’m yet to taste a stunning Vidoc, so I’m pleased to see that Costières de Nîmes has selected a more promising line up.

The reds on trial are Italy’s Montepulciano and Spain’s Graciano (known locally as Morrastel). Both are at their limit of ripening here and have a track record of great things back home.

Whites varieties are Piquepoul Blanc and Tourbat (a.k.a. Malvoisie de Roussillon), both useful for their high acid levels.

There’s also the pink-skinned Souvignier Gris, a semi-aromatic grape with good acidity and low alcohol.

Rules around VIFAs are strict. Estates can plant up to 5% of their vineyard area with them, and individual wines can contain up to 10% in the final blend.

After a trial period of 10 years, appellation authorities will decide whether or not to embrace them more fully.

Organic -> biodynamic -> regenerative

Costières de Nîmes is a huge appellation – it makes 5% of all the wine produced in the Rhône Valley each year.

But it’s still relatively strong on sustainability – in 2025, 34% of production was certified organic or biodynamic, up from 29% in 2024 (the regional average is 23%).

Many of the best estates farm biodynamically, such as Château Beaubois, Château Mourgues du Grès and Terre des Chardons.

Leading organic producers include Mas Carlot, Château Saint Cyrgues, L’Ermite D’Auzan and Château de Montfrin.

The Gassier family, however, goes one step further. Michel Gassier’s two estates – Domaine Gassier and Château de Nages – were the first in France to be certified regenerative, in 2023.

There is no established definition of regenerative viticulture, but essentially it’s an approach which aims to restore and enhance soil health, biodiversity, local ecosystems and communities.

Michel’s daughter Isabel Gassier describes it as “a series of farming practices and social commitments”.

One such practice is adopting a ‘no till’ approach to vineyards to avoid disrupting underground fungi networks.

Instead, cover crops are grown to reduce erosion, aid water infiltration and provide feed for grazing animals.

Another undertaking is planting trees and hedgerows between parcels of vines to provide habitat for birds and animals. They prey on undesirable insects, reducing the need for insecticide.

They’ve also built high-quality lodging for seasonal workers, and share 15% of their profits with their employees.

‘It’s not a diploma, it’s perpetual improvement… based on observation and common sense,’ says Michael. ‘It encompasses everything that agriculture needs to think about.’

Does farming regeneratively make a difference to how the wines taste? With so many other variables it’s hard to say.

But one thing’s for certain – the Gassier family are now making thrilling, Cru-quality red and white Costières de Nîmes that serve as a beacon for the appellation.

Future perfect

As with any appellation of this size, it’s hard to generalise about quality.

There is some talk of further refining the map to create a kind of ‘Costières de Nîmes Villages’. Perhaps that will bring more focus.

Currently there are over 100 producers, but only a small minority produce wines to shout about. But they are testimony to this land’s potential.

By trialling new varieties and farming techniques they’re readying themselves for an uncertain future. But, in the short term at least, things have never looked brighter.

Wines worth trying from the Rhône’s wild west

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Overshadowed by the first and second growths, the Médoc’s third growth estates are quietly undergoing one of Bordeaux’s most compelling qualitative evolutions – often delivering second growth-level quality but at more approachable prices.

Ironically, the catalyst may be the very classification that’s considered by many as obsolete.

With two notable exceptions, the third growths occupy an uneasy position within the Médoc hierarchy, neither rivalling the established aristocracy of the firsts or ‘super seconds’ (those second growths widely considered now to be performing at potentially first growth standard), nor having their status challenged by any glaringly insurgent success stories emerging from the fifth growths, whose own stars regularly defy official ranking.

Fifths such as Châteaux Pontet-Canet and Lynch-Bages now regularly command secondgrowth pricing, for example.

The 1855 Classification, in other words, has long ceased to function as an immutable ladder of quality.

Instead, the third growths exist in a zone defined less by hierarchy and more by expectation: dependable, historically respected, yet less often thrilling.

But a recent comparative tasting shows how that perception is changing.

Natural progression

For this article, the Maison Héritage restaurant in Sessenheim, Alsace (formerly known as Auberge au Boeuf, holder of a Michelin star from 2015 until early 2026) hosted a horizontal tasting of all 14 Médoc third growths from the 2020 vintage.

Unsurprisingly, Châteaux Palmer and Calon Ségur emerged as clearly the leading wines. More revealing was how the remaining 12 compared.

Pricing data from Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, show that, aside from Palmer and the rapidly ascending Calon Ségur, these estates have traded within a significantly lower band of pricing for roughly a quarter of a century.

Qualitatively, however, divergence has become increasingly apparent. As you can read in the tasting notes, each wine was paired with an older reference vintage, to gauge not only stylistic identity but tangible progress.

Improvements in viticulture, investment in wineries and increasingly precise winemaking have begun to reshape the third growth category from within.

Hive of activity

The framework defining these estates remains frozen in time. Conceived for Napoleon III’s Exposition Universelle de 1855 in Paris, the Classification still governs perception despite more than 170 years of transformation.

Of the 14 third growths, 13 continue to display their classified status prominently on labels, serving as both historical credential and commercial shorthand.

Only Château Palmer declines to display the distinction.

The irony is in the history. Charles Palmer was still assembling vineyards in Cantenac shortly before the 1855 Classification was finalised, meaning the estate that today rivals Bordeaux’s elite had not yet fully taken shape when the rankings were fixed.

Palmer’s third growth status reflects timing rather than intrinsic quality – a discrepancy long since corrected by the market.

Leaps and bounds

If the Classification no longer accurately describes a hierarchy, it continues nonetheless to shape behaviour.

Over the past two decades, that influence has produced something unexpected: competition within the Classification itself.

Across the Médoc region, vineyard restructuring, sustainability initiatives and increasingly refined cellar practices have collectively raised standards.

In St-Julien, Château Lagrange illustrates how long-term investment can quietly bolster stature.

A complete cellar modernisation completed in 2010 nearly doubled fermentation capacity, enabling precise parcel-by-parcel vinification.

Château Langoa Barton, long overshadowed by second growth Léoville Barton, has refined its approach steadily over the past 15 years through careful replanting and increasingly precise gravity-fed vinification, improving tannin quality while preserving its own style of St-Julien restraint.

Château La Lagune, the only Haut-Médoc appellation wine among the third growths, reflects the long-term influence of Caroline Frey, whose tenure from 2004 to 2025 (now managed by sister Delphine Frey) saw conversion to certified biodynamic winemaking alongside the introduction of massal selection (by taking cuttings from existing estate vine stocks) starting in 2008, strengthening vineyard identity and resilience.

Rising tide of quality

Including Palmer, 10 of the 14 third growths come from the Margaux appellation, some better known than others.

Château Ferrière, which impressed many tasting participants (some of whom had never heard of it) continues to pursue certified biodynamic viticulture following cellar renovations in 2013 that have enhanced precision and transparency in winemaking.

Better-known Château Giscours has sustained technical stewardship and, especially since the beginning of this century, it has transformed former inconsistency into one of Margaux’s most compelling contemporary expressions, combining aromatic finesse with structural confidence.

Château Cantenac Brown has entered a new phase of refinement, with 9.5ha of newly acquired vineyard parcels in 2020, additions that contribute greater depth and compositional precision, as well as the installation of completely new cellars, inaugurated in April 2024 (first vintage 2023).

Château d’Issan, known for its parcel-by-parcel winemaking and one of the most appreciated wines in the tasting, also acquired vineyard parcels in 2020, bordering Château Margaux, adding Malbec and Petit Verdot as blending options since that vintage.

At Château Kirwan, a decisive stylistic shift endures, following the arrival of general manager Philippe Delfaut in 2007.

Moving away from later harvesting and heavy oak influence, the estate adopted softer extractions and a more classical expression, consolidated by new cellars opened in 2017 enabling parcel-by-parcel vinification.

Château Malescot St-Exupéry retains a richer, more modern Margaux expression shaped with late consultant Michel Rolland, although the wood regime here seems to evolve toward greater balance, with new oak usage reduced in recent vintages.

Château Marquis d’Alesme shows renewal through both technical and experiential investment.

Cellar renovations completed in 2015 improved vinification precision, while increased Cabernet Sauvignon plantings and the creation of Le Hameau, a tucked-away space for food accompanied by the estate’s wines, have positioned Marquis d’Alesme as an innovator in wine tourism within Margaux.

Unequal progress

Not all estates have advanced equally.

Aside from increasing percentages of Petit Verdot in recent blends, Château Boyd-Cantenac remains austere, while Château Desmirail, another less well-known estate, appears only recently to be translating technical evolution into qualitative momentum.

The inclusion of Petit Verdot from mature vines, advances in pragmatic ecological vineyard management and the addition of truncated wooden vats have allowed more refined maceration and improved structural polish.

Such disparities underline a central paradox: the Classification groups estates together, while modern viticulture increasingly separates them.

Above this transforming field stands Château Palmer, not a static exception but rather a moving benchmark.

Under director Thomas Duroux, biodynamic viticulture, rigorous parcel selection and tasting-led extraction have progressively refined texture and transparency, allowing the estate to redefine excellence within this Classification rank.

Château Calon Ségur represents a different, still unfolding ascent.

Extensive replanting since the mid-2000s has left the vineyard unusually young, yet increases in both vine density and the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyard promise further gains in structure and precision.

Recent vintages, including the 2020, already perform convincingly up against second growth-level wines.

Inspiring to improve

Which brings us inevitably to the enduring question: is the 1855 Classification obsolete?

Undeniably so, if judged as a hierarchy intended to reflect today’s realities. Yet its continued existence has produced a fascinating irony.

Unable to change their historical rank, estates have instead worked to be deserving of it.

Many of the third growths, positioned at the centre of Bordeaux’s most famous classification, consequently now count among the Médoc’s most dynamic properties.

The 1855 Classification may no longer precisely determine quality, but the desire not to fall short of its rankings continues to drive producers’ ambition.

In Bordeaux, history rarely disappears. Sometimes, inconveniently yet effectively, it contrives to keep everyone on their toes.

Médoc third growths: The Panos Kakaviatos (PK) revised ranking

If the 1855 Médoc Classification of grand cru classé estates were revised today, the following are my hypothetical rankings, based on current quality, market perception and qualitative evolution of each estate – listed in their proposed ‘new’ order, and alphabetically within that.

Tasting notes and pricing shown here (average price before tax as shown on wine-searcher.com on 12 April 2026) use the 2020 vintage as a benchmark; pricing among the Médoc third growths reveals how the existing 1855 hierarchy can still dictate market positioning, albeit not always in step with relative quality.

Châteaux Palmer and Calon Ségur are both priced in clear recognition of top performance in 2020.

Then there is the cluster of 12 other current third growths, though not all are equal in quality – in reinterpreting the rankings today, I would create a category similar to the ‘super seconds’, or in this case the ‘thrilling thirds’.

This is to reflect the reality that estates such as Cantenac Brown, d’Issan, Giscours, Lagrange and Langoa Barton are delivering relatively higher quality than the others, at prices that have not yet fully caught up.

By contrast, wines such as Château Desmirail and Boyd-Cantenac appear less compelling in value terms, relative to their peers.

The 1855 Classification appears on all their labels, other than Palmer, but the degree to which the Classification still anchors price, regardless of progress in viticulture and winemaking, creates striking disparities in value within the category.

Château Palmer

Margaux

PK revised ranking: First growth

Directed by Thomas Duroux, Palmer cultivates 66ha under certified biodynamic management, combining meticulous parcel stewardship with advanced research into climate resilience and vineyard adaptation.

Technical expertise underpins precise extraction and ageing, with wines maturing 20-22 months in 50%-70% new oak.

The inauguration of the estate’s Village complex in 2025, including staff facilities and a restaurant, reflects Palmer’s commitment to collective identity, sustainability and long-term cultural as well as technical leadership.

Average bottle price: £243*

Château Calon Ségur

St-Estèphe

PK revised ranking: Second growth

Directed by Vincent Millet, Calon Ségur cultivates a largely unchanged 55ha vineyard representing one of the Médoc’s rare historical continuities.

Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for roughly 57% of plantings here, with restructuring underway to increase its proportion. Ageing extends 18-20 months in new oak.

Average bottle price: £88*

Château Cantenac Brown

Margaux

PK revised ranking: Thrilling third

Under director José Sanfins, this 75ha estate is planted largely to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Since new ownership in 2019, vineyard acquisitions together with major investment – notably an eco-designed gravity winery first used for the 2023 vintage – have strengthened precision and estate coherence.

Wines mature for 16-18 months in about 60% new oak.

Average bottle price: £42*

Château d’Issan

Margaux

PK revised ranking: Thrilling third

Jointly owned by Jacky Lorenzetti and Emmanuel Cruse, d’Issan cultivates 55ha under technical director Eric Pellon.

Careful parcel-by-parcel selection and vinification, reinforced by recent vineyard acquisitions, enhance precision and integration across the estate.

Wines age for about 18 months in 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £45*

Château Giscours

Margaux

PK revised ranking: Thrilling third

Led by general manager Alexander van Beek, Giscours cultivates 100ha planted predominantly to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Continued refinement in both vineyard and cellar has reinforced consistency and precision across vintages.

Ageing lasts up to 21 months in around 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £47*

Château Lagrange

St-Julien

PK revised ranking: Thrilling third

Directed by Matthieu Bordes, Lagrange cultivates an unusually continuous 118ha estate dating back to 1855.

A major cellar expansion completed in 2010, which effectively doubled vat capacity, allows extensive parcel-by-parcel vinification and enhanced precision.

Wines age up to 21 months in roughly 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £38*

Château Langoa Barton

St-Julien

PK revised ranking: Thrilling third

Managed by Damien Barton Sartorius, Langoa Barton cultivates 20ha reflecting a classical St-Julien balance rooted in long family stewardship.

Recent investment has improved parcel precision while preserving traditional proportions.

Wines are aged about 18 months in 60% new oak.

Average bottle price: £36*

Château Ferrière

Margaux

PK revised ranking: No change

Owned and directed by Claire Villars-Lurton, Ferrière cultivates 24ha under certified organic and biodynamic management.

Old massal-selection vines contribute finesse and aromatic precision, reflecting a philosophy centred on terroir expression.

Wines age 16-18 months in roughly 40% new oak.

Average bottle price: £33*

Château Kirwan

Margaux

PK revised ranking: No change

Directed by Philippe Delfaut, Kirwan cultivates 37ha with an emphasis on gentler extraction and greater terroir clarity following stylistic evolution initiated in the late 2000s.

Modern cellars enable detailed parcel by parcel vinification, with ageing lasting 18-21 months in about 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £40*

Château La Lagune

Haut-Médoc

PK revised ranking: No change

Long guided by Caroline Frey and now managed by her sister Delphine Frey, La Lagune cultivates approximately 80ha planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

Biodynamic certification achieved in 2021 reflects sustained attention to vineyard vitality.

Wines age 16-18 months in around 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £34*

Château Malescot St-Exupéry

Margaux

PK revised ranking: No change

Owned by Jean-Luc Zuger and guided for almost three decades by the recently late consultant Michel Rolland, this 28ha estate cultivates Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot alongside smaller proportions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

A gradual reduction in new oak seeks greater freshness within the estate’s historically opulent style.

Ageing lasts 16-18 months.

Average bottle price: £39*

Château Marquis d’Alesme

Margaux

PK revised ranking: No change

Acquired by Hubert Perrodo in 2006 and subsequently developed under the leadership of his daughter Nathalie Perrodo, this 14ha estate has undergone extensive renovation since 2015, improving vineyard precision and balance.

Wines age 16-18 months in about 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £36*

Château Desmirail

Margaux

PK revised ranking: Fourth growth

Now directed by Thierry Lurton, Desmirail cultivates 35ha combining Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with increasing Petit Verdot influence.

Expanded vineyard holdings and updated cellar facilities allow more detailed parcel vinification.

Wines age 16-18 months in about 50% new oak.

Average bottle price: £31*

Château Boyd-Cantenac

Margaux

PK revised ranking: Fifth growth

Owned by Lucien Guillemet, this 17ha Margaux estate cultivates predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon alongside Merlot, Cabernet Franc and increasing Petit Verdot proportions intended to reinforce structure and freshness.

Wines are aged 15-18 months in 80%-90% new oak.

Average bottle price: £36*

Third Growth wines

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As so often happens in Bordeaux, great vintages come in pairs.

Just a year on from appraising the finest wines of 2015, we are now examining the very best of 2016.

In similar fashion to 2009/2010, 1995/1996, 1989/1990, 1985/1986 and, although separated by an abysmal vintage, the otherworldly 1959/1961, so often these legendary pairs are qualitative peers but stylistically polar. That is also true with 2015 and 2016.

While the rhetoric of my equivalent article in last year’s Bordeaux guide was based on the famous ‘rule of fives’ (years ending in ‘5’ are reputed always to produce good quality in Bordeaux), 2016 has been proposed by many as ‘the greatest global wine vintage ever’.

We are certainly not here to examine that claim, but we are here to surmise where it might sit among the pantheon of the finest vintages ever produced in Bordeaux.

The growing season

The 2016 vintage was marked by a particularly long hang time (relatively slow, extended ripening season) that led to much better phenolic ripeness of flavour compounds and tannins in the grape skins, seeds and stems.

Although the winter had been cold and wet, the summer was hot and dry, and critically it had a much higher average number of sunshine hours, but without the mercury tipping off the scale.

September saw rain arrive at the optimum moment, before an Indian summer, allowing the grapes to mature both slowly and fully.

At some châteaux, harvest didn’t begin until October – a real rarity these days – and this was crucial to the harvest’s success.

Market performance

Although the 2016 en primeur campaign (in spring 2017) was an incredibly successful one for most UK merchants, the price performance has been modest since.

Merchant Bordeaux Index reports that what could broadly be considered the ‘top 20 wines of the vintage’ have increased, on average, just 1% (excluding storage) against a broad selection of (non-vinous) commodities that have seen growth of closer to 50% in that period.

There are exceptions, though, of course.

Up to late-March 2026 (according to Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade platform), Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the best price performer, at 72% up from its primeurs release.

In terms of ‘super seconds’ (top-rated wines among the second growth to fifth growth estates), châteaux Pichon Comtesse, Montrose and Beychevelle have seen rises of 48%, 38% and 24% respectively.

At the other end of the scale, with Châteaux Pavie and La Mission Haut-Brion being the biggest fallers once again, we are no closer to addressing the question we posed last year: ‘Does an estate’s classification affect the price?’

In the case of relatively newly promoted Pavie, these continued price falls suggest the market is unwilling to pay its ambitious release prices.

Conversely, a fall in the price of Château La Mission Haut-Brion – trading at almost half the price of neighbouring Pessac-Léognan first growth Château Haut-Brion – would appear to indicate that the 1855 classification is more relevant than ever, despite the two now being very much qualitative peers.

Standout appellations

While this could be a relatively futile exercise in this tasting, if I were forced to pick just two communes that performed particularly well in 2016, I would suggest Pomerol and Margaux.

St-Estèphe would run a close third; however, the former two showed not necessarily the very apex of the tasting, but a higher median quality than in other vintages, with some wonderful surprises further down the classification ranking.

See more of Gareth Birchley's revised notes and recommendations from Bordeaux's 2016 vintage

Testing impressions

So, what do the wines taste like today?

Unlike its predecessor, there is far less opulence in these wines. They are, generally speaking, linear, precise, occasionally backward in terms of their development, but impeccably balanced.

Across the board the tannins are fine and beginning to integrate perfectly, leaving silky, pure wines that will be incredibly long lived.

I would suggest that, at 10 years old, there are only a handful that are beginning to show signs of marked evolution and therefore ‘drinkability’ for those seeking claret with full maturity.

The best examples will evolve at a glacial place and, dare I say it, under perfect storage conditions, still provide pleasure close to their 100th birthday.

I say that not based upon huge tannin structure that needs to be resolved over decades, but due to the wines’ sublime balance, which will mean, for the most part, 2016 will drink well every day of its life.

Birchley’s pick: 25 Bordeaux 2016s, 10 years on

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The 2025 en primeur campaign appears to have got off to a somewhat haphazard start with a spattering of big name releases but little rhythm thanks to a succession of bank holiday weekends and now a week-long lull.

Nonetheless, some key wines have appeared so far, including Lafleur (newly rebadged as Vin de France), Château Cheval Blanc, Château Pontet-Canet and Château Cos d’Estournel.

More recent releases have included Château Lafite Rothschild and its stable, Château Angélus and Château Palmer, as well as châteaux Branaire-Ducru, Lynch-Bages, Lascombes and Léoville-Barton among others.

First of the firsts

The most notable release of all so far has been first growth, Lafite Rothschild. The wine was rated 97-points by Decanter’s Georgie Hindle, who said it was: ‘A bit more lively, energetic and upfront than Lafite can sometimes be.’

With consistently high scores from other major critics too, there was hope that Lafite – as has been the case in the past – could help keep the campaign on course and set an example with its pricing.

Yields were very small in 2025 (27hl/ha) and quantities are very limited. Berry Bros & Rudd is offering the wine in packs of three for £1,047 (£4,164 per 12x75).

The 2025 is around 16% more expensive than the 2024, but for a much higher quality wine and one that is still much cheaper than many older vintages of Lafite – especially other highly-rated vintages.

Second wine Carruades de Lafite was also released at £432 per three bottles.

A smile on the face of angels

Right Bank grand cru Angélus hit the market on 21 May. Another wine with 97-points from Hindle who wrote: ‘The energy and balance is flawless. Really an elegant, elongated wine with such nuance of flavour. I love this and think they've done a super job – juicy, this brings a smile to your face.’

The wine is being offered for £606 per three bottles or £1,200 per six at BBR. Fine wine marketplace Liv-ex noted that the 2025 was one of the more expensive vintages available and some recent older vintages with equal or higher scores are currently available for less.

And finally, Palmer, which was released on 22 May and is being offered by BBR and other merchants for £1,158 per six bottles (or £585 per three).

Likewise scored 97-points by Hindle – who called it, ‘sturdy, stately, complex’ and ‘compelling’ – it was again noted by Liv-ex as being one at the more expensive end of comparable recent vintages.

Slow and steady

Reaction to many wines has been broadly positive so far. Big hitters such as Cheval Blanc and Lafite have sold well, several merchants said.

Corney & Barrow noted that its exclusives from the Moueix and Mitjaville stables had also found a ready audience.

Speaking to Decanter, one merchant said pricing was ‘sensible’ but also ‘not necessarily at a level where the wine becomes a must buy’.

Nonetheless, they added, buyers recognised ‘this is truly a vintage of excellent quality and a future great’.

This was leading to ‘reasonable’ levels of interest and, ‘significantly more large format bottling requests than normal given this is a vintage where buyers will want to own and drink’.

June offensive

Many of the Bordelais are currently in Asia at the Vinexpo trade show, hence the quiet end to May.

Various insiders, however, have caught wind of a number of big name releases that are lined up for early June.

A select few can be seen below.

Early June releases

1st June: Giscours

2nd June: Pichon Lalande, La Mission Haut-Brion, Lagrange, Pavie

3rd June: Mouton Rothschild, Haut-Bailly, Brane Cantenac

4th June: Cantenac Brown

8th June: Clos Fourtet

9th June: Haut-Brion

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White Burgundy is one of life’s great pleasures, so don’t be intimidated – it’s easy to dive right in.

Although the category offers incredible diversity in style, quality, and price, we provide a roadmap that gives you a shortcut for deciding which wine is perfect for you on every occasion.

The best way to begin is to ask yourself the questions below.

Who will you be with?

Family, friends, and work clients each require a different solution to finding the perfect white Burgundy.

Choosing a wine to share with your family should be easy, but often it isn't. Hopefully, they will not judge you, but one wants top quality for those who are close.

Ideally, your house white Burgundy will be an everyday wine, so find a producer working in a style that you like and anchor your wine fridge with one of their entry-level offerings.

I delight in finding a solid sub-£25 Mâcon-Villages and laying down a case for frequent drinking, such as the Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras.

You may wish to surprise your friends, so explore something new among the region's rising stars.

The wines with the most buzz will not be the least expensive, but they will still cost less than top names.

Guillaume Lafon, son of renowned winemaker Dominique Lafon, has just founded his own domaine and is producing tremendously exciting wines.

Clients need to be impressed with a classic wine that is reliable in every vintage, so choose a well-known name from a classic region.

Bosses, however, will be impressed by smart choices, so let the size of your expense account determine whether you are picking a regional Bourgogne, a village-level wine, or a ravishing premier cru.

What is your style?

At the risk of oversimplifying, it may help to think of three main styles of white Burgundy: crisp and refreshing, richly exuberant, and polished and elegant.

The good news is that you can find bargains among all three types. The classic example of ‘crisp and refreshing’ is Chablis.

The wines have aromas of citrus and green apple, and the better ones have a pronounced flinty, mineral note.

Although it’s fine to start with an inexpensive Petit Chablis, but for a surprisingly small increase in price, you will find a village-level Chablis like the 2024 Domaine Billaud-Simon that will give you the full range of minerally, lemony fruit.

At the opposite end of the spectrum are richly exuberant white Burgundies, like those from the southern districts of Burgundy (the Mâconnais).

This region offers some of the most reasonably priced wines, yet also delivers great quality, particularly in crus whose names appear alone on the label.

The single vineyard Saint-Véran Les Crèches from talented grower Domaine Saumaise-Michelin is a perfect place to start.

Wines from all over Burgundy could fit into our ‘polished and elegant’ category, but to simplify, focus on finding values from the rarified 'golden triangle' of white Burgundy villages: Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet.

These villages are renowned for the quality and complexity of their wines, but they can often be expensive; some, however, will fit into your Starter Pack.

One example is the Bourgogne Côte d'Or from Meursault producer Michel Bouzereau.

Although they are grown outside the area for village-level wines, they still show some of their noble character.

Where and when are you drinking?

A final consideration is time and place. White Burgundy is incredibly versatile, so don't be afraid to mix it up.

In a restaurant, the tried-and-true pairings could be Chablis with shellfish or lighter fish such as sole.

The wines of the Côte d’Or can accompany more substantial dishes such as roast chicken, pork, or duck, and the exuberantly fruity wines of the Mâconnais are well suited to spicier food such as Indian or Chinese.

To answer the perennial question ‘when to drink?’, one must leave it to personal preference, and many inexpensive white Burgundies drink well on release.

The best of the premier cru wines, however, need some time to digest the oak used in their ageing, and warrant up to a decade of cellaring, while the top grand cru whites can easily age for 50 years.

Once you know the ‘who, what, where, and when’ of Burgundy, you won’t need any help deciding ‘why’, since these wines are among the most enjoyable whites produced anywhere.

Your White Burgundy starter pack

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A glass fills with pale gold, capped with a meringue-soft mousse which subsides, slowly, to a simmering ring around the glass.

There’s little remarkable about the pour until a glance sideways reveals a number etched on the side of the bottle: 1979.

Sensing my astonishment, Lanson Chef de Cave Hervé Dantan raises a knowing smile. ‘The 1979 has always been like this!,’ he says. ‘From the first time I tasted it.’

Intense aromas soar up from the glass – cooked limes, coffee, kerosine, toasted nut and vanilla – it’s still gliding on a gently bubbly texture while serving up intense, complex refreshment.

Despite the fortune to taste older Champagnes on a regular basis, disappointments at the hands of overt oxidation, bad corks or careless storage are commonplace.

How come Lanson’s treasures seem to last so well?

Turning out the cellar

First in the list of reasons is a renovation of the house’s library that has proven itself a model for the region.

‘It took four years to do the restoration of all the wines going back to 1904,’ explains Dantan, who had two people working constantly on a highly technical project which included laser-tasting bottles for pressure (without opening them), colour and chemical analysis, cork analysis and, where needed, tasting.

‘We had to taste some 1914, some 1918 – it’s wasn’t torture, but we learnt so much about the potential of ageing these wines. It was an incredible process,’ he recalls.

Around 15% of the library was culled after all 200,000 bottles were individually checked.

The end result is that every bottle in the extensive library is now as close to guaranteed in condition as possible, tagged with its own ID card and, in the case of the Lanson Vintage Collection, available for collectors to purchase in their own personal private cellar space at the maison.

Unhurried development

While the vintage takes up most of the cellar, a separate archive exists for prestige cuvée Noble.

It was this precious store which was raided for an extraordinary ‘vertical’ tasting in April 2026, starting with the 1979 and proceeding through a series of both Noble Blanc de Blancs and Noble releases.

With the Chardonnay part of the blend put together first (and sometimes released as a standalone Noble Blanc de Blancs), 30% Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru village of Verzenay is added to complete the main cuvée, which spends around 12 years ageing in the cellars before release.

Even then, this is clearly not a wine in a hurry.

Four aged examples of Lanson Noble

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The first time I tried Gamay, I was 22 and on the cusp of some awakening that would eventually lead me to a career in wine.

Up until that point, my experience drinking wine – and especially red wine – was probably a familiar one to many: full-bodied expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon opened regardless of the season.

Dinners paired, however inappropriately, with bottles from Rioja and Bordeaux and the occasional Chianti, inspired by a trip I took with my family to Tuscany when I was a kid.

So to experience a wine that was delicate and bursting with fruit, whose tannins and acidity worked in perfect harmony, was to open an entire world I didn’t know existed.

Wine professionals and enthusiasts alike often talk about their ‘gateway bottles’ – the first wine they ever enjoyed which revealed with stark clarity the possibilities of what wine could be.

A Beaujolais 2020 from Domaine de la Prébende was my first experience drinking a lighter-bodied, bright and juicy red, and it set me down a path of looking for wines that ignited this same sense of wonder.

The juicy holy grail

Nothing has delivered quite like the elusive, though increasingly popular, Pineau d’Aunis, whose exciting renaissance has not only deepened my enjoyment of wine, but kindled a sense of curiosity for its craft and history.

Pineau d’Aunis, a red grape thought to be native to the Loire, was once very popular across this region, especially during the 13th century when it was purportedly a favourite of England’s King Henry III, who had the wines shipped across the Channel.

But like most European grape varieties, Pineau d’Aunis was heavily impacted by the phylloxera outbreak that swept through France and across Europe in the late 19th century.

Finicky and susceptible to some diseases, it was gradually replaced by the more celebrated (and easier to handle) Cabernet Franc.

Though never entirely lost, Pineau d’Aunis plantings dwindled significantly over the 20th century, reaching their lowest point in the 1970s before the start of its recent revival.

Pineau ascendent

Leading this renaissance were producers like Jean-Pierre Robinot (Les Vignes de l'Ange Vin), Thierry Puzelat (Clos du Tue-Boeuf) and Eric Nicolas (Domaine de Bellivière).

Nicolas has worked with massal cuttings from 100-year-old vines to repopulate Pineau d’Aunis across his vineyard, which he uses in one of the domaine’s signature cuvées, Hommage à Louis Derré, a personal favourite of mine.

Louis Dressner, one of the largest importers of natural wine in the US, has been working with these producers, and more, over the last 20 years, playing an influential role in the rise of Pineau d’Aunis in bars and on shelves across the country. (That being said, it’s one of few grapes on their website which doesn’t have its own designated sorting feature).

Jules Dressner, of the company’s second generation, credits this with the increasing demand for Loire wines generally.

‘There used to be a time when this was an underdog grape in an underdog region,’ he says, ‘but the Loire has legitimised itself as a very important place in France, and so you have more people paying more attention to the region generally and therefore the indigenous varieties it gives us.’

The problem with Pineau d’Aunis, he argues, is that it’s often overlooked and even somewhat polarising. ‘It's much more than a light-drinking red grape.

It's rustic, but charming and complex. The kind of grape that you can turn your brain either on or off too, that can really make you think – if you let it,’ he says.

A moveable feast

And it’s true, each bottle of Pineau d’Aunis I’ve tried has given me something new to chew on: bright and juicy expressions of red fruits like strawberries, raspberries and sour cherries, grounded in an earthy savouriness with notes of white pepper and brine, that balance out its brighter elements.

As the seasons change, I find myself once again turning to wines that are not only fresh and light, but that mark some greater awakening which spring always seems to set in motion.

The following wines capture just that.

Six wines to make you fall in love with Pineau d'Aunis:

Domaine de Bellivière, Hommage à Louis Derré, Coteaux du Loir

One of the domaine’s most elusive cuvées made from its signature variety, this comes from 1ha of 90-110-year-old Pineau d'Aunis grown on heavy clay and silex soils over limestone, across eight tiny parcels.

Sour plum, blackberry and redcurrant aromas are intricately woven with undertones of warm spice like anise and peppercorn and an earthy quality of wet moss and leaves.

Perfectly structured, its tannins are notable yet refined, covering a silky palate that gives the wine fabulous length and elegance.

Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Pineau d’Aunis, Vin de France

One of the earliest bottles of Pineau d’Aunis I tried, this is the kind of wine that lingers well beyond the last sip. In the glass it’s ruby-hued and translucent when held up to the light.

Clos du Tue-Boeuf was established by Thierry Puzelat, who has worked with Pineau d’Aunis for a long time.

This cuvée, however, was first released in 2015 with fruit sourced in small quantities from his neighbouring grower, Valérie Forgues, who organically tends and hand harvests 100-year-old vines.

Aged for six months in old barrels and bottled with zero added sulphur, this wine has a lip-smacking acidity reminiscent of blood orange or cranberry juice, finishing with notes of Castelvetrano olive and a peppery bite like fresh rocket.

Jean-Pierre Robinot, Les Vignes de l'Ange Vin Le Regard, Vin de France

Quintessential Loire freshness and unmistakably Robinot, this wine is zippy, bright and expressive, with a slight effervescence.

Whole-bunch fermentation for three weeks and 15 months of maturation in barrel gives the wine delicate tannins without sacrificing its brightness or high acidity.

Vibrant notes of cranberry and pomegranate on the palate work in harmony with salty and faintly grassy aromas on the nose.

It has a metallic, iron-rich finish, a touch of white pepper and an uncompromising savouriness which begs to be thoughtfully considered.

Domaine de la Roche Bleue, La Belle d'Aunis, Vin de France

Described by winemaker Sébastien Cornille as ‘a thinker, a ponderer, a brilliant wine,’ this cuvée reaches depths Pineau d’Aunis is seldom thought to achieve.

The grapes are harvested from vines that are over 50 years old, planted in the clay-rich soils of Marçon and Chahaignes.

After two to three weeks of semi-carbonic maceration in foudres, depending on the vintage, the wine is gently pressed, then aged for 12 months in barrel.

The result preserves the delicacy and purity of the fruit – think blackcurrant liqueur and raspberry preserve – while layering in warm spice notes of coriander seed and star anise.

Surprisingly robust, it pairs beautifully with a range of dishes like lamb and spring vegetables.

La Grapperie, Adonis Pineau d'Aunis, Vin de France

La Grapperie makes wine from just two varieties: Chenin Blanc and Pineau d'Aunis.

This cuvée, made purely of the latter, uses grapes from a blend of young and old vines planted across the Coteaux du Loir – one of the region’s overlooked terroirs.

But winemaker Renaud Guettier is helping to breathe new life into the area and creating new excitement around the grape.

Here, he balances the natural character of Pineau d’Aunis with the limestone-rich slopes he farms.

The wine shows a harmony of soft earth and spicy minerality, with notes of red raspberry, wild strawberry and cracked pepper.

Striking a balance between brightness and structure, it’s a wine that speaks for itself, but is just as at home shared over a table of meats and cheeses.

Domaine le Briseau, Patapon, Vin de France

Produced within the Coteaux du Loir appellation, this cuvée has been intentionally declassified as Vin de France by the winemaker, self-prescribed as 'unconforming'.

The medium-bodied palate defies expectations for a grape often assumed to be simply light and juicy.

The nose is heavily perfumed with aromas of strawberry compote, violets and red cherries, as well as subtle hints of black pepper and damp earth.

On the palate, it’s juicy with mouthwatering acidity, soft tannins, and flavours of tart red fruit, a touch of chocolate and a mineral-driven finish.

The clown on the label serves as both a warning and an invitation: this is a mischievous wine, youthfully spirited.

But hiding behind that veil is something much bolder, more serious, and more thoughtful.

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Andy Howard MW, Beatrice Bessi and Robert Mathias tasted 137 wines, with 16 Highly recommended and 80 Recommended

Right Bank Bordeaux: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 16

Recommended 80

Commended 41

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red grand vin from Lussac St-Emilion, Puisseguin St-Emilion, Montagne St-Emilion, St-Georges St-Emilion, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac, Côtes de Bourg, Blaye, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux or Côtes de Bordeaux (APs St-Emilion and Pomerol were not included)

A patchwork quilt of value wines

Although no wines were rated Outstanding (95 points and above), there was still much to enjoy in this tasting.

A wide range of appellations were tasted, generating 16 Highly recommended wines (90-94pts) from eight different appellationss.

APs ranged from those on the opposite side of the Gironde to the Haut-Médoc (Côtes de Bourg, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux); Fronsac and Lalande-de-Pomerol (west and north of Libourne); the St-Emilion ‘satellites’ of Lussac, Puisseguin, Montagne and St-Georges; plus the Castillon, Francs and Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux appellations further east.

The ‘satellite’ APs performed strongly, accounting for 10 of the 16 Highly recommendeds.

Bordeaux continues to offer a unique package for wine drinkers, combining (at the less-exalted level) attractive pricing, capacity to both drink well in youth and age, and a fresh, medium-alcohol style in tune with current trends.

Many of these qualities were on show in these wines.

2023 finds favour

Robert Mathias MW saw plenty of positives: ‘There was a lot of approachability in the recent vintages, and charm in many of the wines. The satellite APs are a good hunting ground for early-drinking, easygoing reds.’

Beatrice Bessi felt there were ‘very pleasant discoveries in Blaye, Castillon, Lussac, Puisseguin and Montagne’.

Merlot (unsurprisingly) dominated the blends in these Right Bank wines and was generally handled well, with subtle, restrained oak (when used).

Château Coucy’s Origines (Montagne) also stood out as a single-varietal Cabernet Franc aged for 11-12 months in amphora.

Considering vintages, Bessi was most impressed by the 2023s, while Mathias noted that in 2022 there were some wines ‘where you saw younger vines and poorer terroirs resulting in some vines being blocked due to the drought’.

However, Mathias concluded: ‘The best wines stood out for their freshness, completeness and energy. While they didn’t reach the heights of more famous APs, they’re still to be commended.'

See all notes and scores from the Right Bank Bordeaux tasting

The judges

Right Bank Bordeaux panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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The Ca’Marcanda project in the sea-kissed region of coastal Tuscany began in 1996, led by the pioneering vision of Angelo Gaja.

It was a decision fuelled by curiosity – his daughter Gaia coyly jokes that her father could be accused of ‘cheating on Nebbiolo with Cabernet’.

Yet, what Bolgheri really represented was a great sense of freedom.

‘Stylistically there were no preconceptions; it’s the new world of Italy,’ she notes.

The Gaja name is perhaps best known as a leading light in Piedmont under Angelo Gaja, but today the family’s estates span three regions of Italy: Piedmont (Barbaresco, Barolo and Alta Langa), Tuscany (Ca’Marcanda in Bolgheri and Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino) and Sicily (Idda on Etna).

Settling in Bolgheri

As Gaia explains, ‘We arrived 10 years later’ – namely after the key names that led the historic Super Tuscan movement of the 1980s, from Grattamacco to Guado al Tasso and Ornellaia.

While Angelo Gaja remains involved in key viticultural decisions, since 2012 it has been the three siblings of the family’s fifth generation that tasted and decided each week with the winemaker.

‘Here I grew a lot thanks to the experiments at Ca’Marcanda… It is a philosophy of doing, of being hands-on,’ says Gaia.

The flagship: Camarcanda

Gaja’s 120ha Ca'Marcanda estate focuses on four key labels: three reds (Promis, Magari and Camarcanda) and a white blend, Vistamare.

For the reds, key international varieties take centre stage, namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Syrah, in addition to Sangiovese.

The distinct Bolgheri landscape offers a range of soil types, from more sandy to clay-driven and mineral-rich.

This is in particular due to the influence of the Metalliferous Hills, which in the past was a key area for copper, iron, marble and limestone mines.

Recent zoning studies have evidenced around 27 different soil types; to which Gaia acknowledged, ‘the future of Bolgheri will still have a lot of surprises for us’.

Flagship wine Camarcanda represents the estate’s true calling card, produced from some of its best plots.

Today it is a Cabernet Sauvignon-driven blend with the remainder Cabernet Franc, while in the past Merlot also featured.

‘Italianity’ as a marker of identity

Gaia Gaja certainly knows how to command a room. Pulling listeners into her inner circle, she highlights the concept of ‘Italianity’ and the triumph of the ‘ingredient’ or ‘raw material’ in winemaking and gastronomic excellence in Italy.

For her, it's a sense that ‘complexity is not the same as complicated’ that is key, and what truly matters is purity of fruit and territory.

Looking ahead

The effects of climate change on winemaking were already front of mind in Angelo’s choices.

Forward-thinking and ambitious, from the outset he collaborated with university professors, entomologists, botanists and geologists.

Today, Ca’Marcanda remains a forerunner in its approach to the developments and adaptations required by the changing climate in both vineyard and winery.

Working with Professor Andrea Lucchi from the University of Pisa, the estate was involved in an extensive study of insect behaviour that culminated in the pioneering development of ‘smart bugs’, which are being trialled and used to tackle pests in the vineyard, beginning with Ca’Marcanda and now stretching to some 120 other producers.

A focus on the role of mixed agriculture (olives, cereals, woodland), composting practices, and cover crops (such as mustard, vetch and clover) are further strategies employed to encourage biodiversity and healthy soils.

More vigorous rootstocks are being chosen, along with a shift from cordon training to Guyot – in part to tackle vineyard diseases such as esca.

Planting orientations in the vineyard are changing too, with newer vines planted north to south rather than east to west in order to maximise freshness.

In the cellar, blending possibilities are being harnessed to make the most of difficult vintages.

Despite the unpredictability of an ever-changing climate, for Gaia these difficulties also constitute an exciting challenge.

She notes that it is these adverse vintages that provide the opportunity to showcase ‘excellence in consistency’, drawing on decades of experience and the ‘repetition of a craft that goes into the glass’.

The evolution of Ca'Marcanda in six wines

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Burgundy vineyard prices reflect luxury asset class

Burgundy vineyard prices continued to increase in 2025. A hectare of premier cru Chardonnay vines in Burgundy’s Côte-d’Or cost an average €2.7 million (£2.3m) last year, according to transaction data from France’s rural land agency Safer.

That same amount that could also buy a luxury apartment in central Paris, a collection of vintage sports cars or high-end Rolex watches.

With vineyard prices in Côte-d’Or extending a nearly three-decade-long climb, top Burgundy appellations now resemble scarce luxury assets more than ordinary agricultural property.

Value has risen even as much of France’s wine sector struggles with a slump in red wine demand.

'That’s where the land market gets complicated to analyse, because among people who have money, some are going to want to buy a Ferrari, while others will prefer to buy a Burgundy vineyard,' Nicolas Agresti, director of studies at Safer, told Decanter at press conference in Paris.

The average price for a hectare of premier cru white wine vines in Burgundy climbed 6% last year, according to Safer. Prices for premier cru Pinot Noir vineyards rose 11% to €1.15m per hectare.

That compares to an average 6.8% drop in the price of wine property across France, excluding Champagne.

The value of the French wine property that changed hands last year rose 16% to €1.65bn, according to Safer.

Out of 10,930 vineyard transactions, just four accounted for a quarter of that total value, and most of the handful of biggest deals were in Côte-d’Or, said Safer president Thierry Bussy.

Burgundy wines and land in-demand

Vineyard prices in Burgundy continue to have a degree of correlation with bottle prices, according to Agresti, who cited a 2023 analysis by researchers at French agricultural research institute INRAE.

Wines from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits areas consistently dominate Wine-Searcher’s list of the world’s top 50 most expensive wines, and have done so for years.

Despite a downturn on the fine wine secondary market in recent years, Burgundy continues to be renowned worldwide and manages to sell bottles at very high prices.

Loïc Jégouzo, in charge of studies at Safer, told Decanter. 'There is a niche market for certain investors who don't want to own the bottle, but rather the vineyard that produces it.'

Agresti noted the limited size of the Burgundy growing area as a factor driving up prices, with all grand cru areas fully planted 'and that’s that'.

The focus on terroir and very small plots linked to specific wines 'is unique and a system that’s probably quite different from other wine markets', he said.

The Côte d’Or vineyards cover about 9,500 hectares, around a tenth of the Bordeaux area, where winemakers have been ripping up vines in response to falling demand and prices.

Champagne up as Bordeaux's elite feel the heat

Champagne property also resisted the overall slump for France, with the price of a hectare of vines in the top-tier Côte des blancs appellation rising 3.5% to €1.69m.

Meanwhile, vineyard prices in Bordeaux fell for a fourth consecutive year amid weakening red wine demand and financial pressure on growers. Average prices slid 24% to €85,595 per hectare.

Even the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations succumbed to pressure in 2025, having previously resisted, Jégouzo said.

In Pauillac, the average price for a hectare of vines fell 32% to €1.7 million, while Margaux vineyard prices slumped 43% to €800,000 per hectare.

Burgundy in 'its own bubble'

Can Burgundy continue to remain immune to a global trend of lower wine consumption, particularly affecting reds?

'One might wonder whether, given what’s happening in Bordeaux, the same thing could happen in Burgundy,' Jégouzo said.

'Burgundy is really in a league of its own, because both the whites and reds are in their own little bubble.'

Get first access to DWWA 2026 results on 17 June

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Natalie Earl, Heather Dougherty and Wieteke Teppema tasted 65 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 31 Highly recommended

Picpoul de Pinet: Panel tasting scores

65 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 31

Recommended 17

Commended 14

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their white wines from the Picpoul de Pinet AP in Languedoc, of any style, including latest releases, older vintages and Patience cuvées

Patience a virtue?

This positive tasting offered some surprises and good scores, revealing a category on the move, with more diversity than you might expect from the UK’s favourite pub wine.

Picpoul de Pinet’s dependable (albeit rather homogenous) image has helped sales soar, enabling the wines to become a bottle shop and restaurant staple – especially in its largest export market, the UK, which accounted for more than 55% of its total exports of 9.14m bottles in 2025 (source: French customs, via CIVL).

Both Heather Dougherty and Wieteke Teppema were expecting consistency and a certain uniformity of style: fresh, citrussy and saline. But does this still represent Picpoul de Pinet’s calling card?

In 2018, the appellation introduced ‘Patience’: richer wines with more ageing potential.

Later picking leads to riper fruit, often from older vines; wines are aged for at least six months, often on the lees.

There were some impressive examples here, but others weren’t quite fresh enough to counter their exuberance.

No doubt this new style has opened a discussion around what Piquepoul Blanc – the appellation’s sole permitted variety – is capable of, giving producers license and confidence to be more creative.

So much so that Dougherty noted ‘a blurring of the lines, with extended lees ageing and intensity of flavour found in both Patience styles and regular bottlings’.

'Producers are taking vineyard health and healthy grapes seriously'

Most 2025s hadn’t yet been bottled, so there were 43 wines from the 2024 vintage, against 18 from 2025.

Seven of the 2025s scored below 86pts (the cutoff for Commended), and six had a pink tinge, possibly due to sunburnt grapes following two big heatwaves in August 2025.

Other 2025s were bright and zingy, however.

Despite vintage-specific issues, quality keeps improving and Teppema observed: ‘Most were certified Haute Valeur Environnementale or organic. Producers are taking vineyard health and healthy grapes seriously, helping to raise the overall quality of the wines.’

The three top-scoring wines offer different flavour and texture experiences.

Although a move away from a singular style across the appellation risks confusing consumers, most wines still show the trademark marine character, meaning consumers can still buy confidently at accessible price points.

See all notes and scores from the Picpoul de Pinet tasting

The judges

Picpoul de Pinet panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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It’s 2016. I’m waiting for a friend at a restaurant and start scanning the wine list.

Something catches my eye: a 2007 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains. It had almost 10 years on it.

But Bourgogne Passetoutgrains is a simple wine, I had been taught, the sort that didn’t age – it would be tired, surely?

Well, it wasn’t. That delicious bottle, from Domaine Michel Lafarge – one of Volnay’s leading names, has been lingering in my mind ever since.

Disloyal Gameez

Pinot Noir is the grape we associate with Burgundy today, but Gamay was once widely planted too.

It was famously banned in the region by Philip the Bold in the 14th century. The Duke issued a decree in 1395 ordering the ‘evil and disloyal plant’ to be torn from the ground.

But Gamay didn’t entirely disappear. While Pinot Noir would dominate the region’s vineyards, pockets of Gamay survived long beyond the 14th century – with a little over 2,000ha spread around the region today.

The Burgundians tend to look down their noses at Gamay – a grape they argue doesn’t have the finesse of Pinot Noir.

Gamay is the journeyman, Pinot Noir the champion fighter. When the INAO created Burgundy’s appellation system in 1937, they permitted Gamay to be used under just two appellations: Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (replaced in 2011 by Coteaux Bourguignons, which can be a varietal Gamay or a blend) and Bourgogne Passetoutgrains.

Passetoutgrains (sometimes hyphenated as Passe-tout-grains, and sometimes spelt with a singular ‘grain’) translates roughly as ‘pass all grapes’ – a bung-it-all-in wine, traditionally from vineyards where different varieties were co-planted and harvested together.

At the bottom of the quality pyramid, with vines generally sitting on less desirable, lower-lying, clay-rich land, these were modest wines of little repute.

At a time when much Burgundy sits beyond the average wine-lover’s budget, however, Passetoutgrains deserves a re-appraisal.

Old wines reborn

Today, Passetoutgrains must legally contain a minimum of 30% Pinot Noir and 15% Gamay, although most wines are a 50-50 blend.

Older vineyards tend to be traditional field blends, with the Gamay and Pinot Noir interplanted, but modern plantings often separate the two varieties.

‘I am very keen on Passetoutgrains,’ says Guillaume d’Angerville – the aristocratic head of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville.

His father stopped producing the wine, but Guillaume re-introduced it and recently purchased an additional parcel to expand his holdings in the appellation.

This property may be best known for its monopole premier cru Clos des Ducs, but a glint in his eye appears when I ask him about its entry-level offering.

It is, he tells me, ‘unassuming’, ‘a wine for thirst’ – and one that he feels is important for the region. ‘Gamay brings the joy, the liveliness, to the seriousness of Pinot Noir,’ he says.

For Clothilde Lafarge (of Domaine Lafarge), the wine has a special place in her family’s history as the vineyard planted by her great-grandfather Henri Lafarge in 1928 and one of the first wines he bottled (alongside Clos des Chênes).

A traditional field blend, the vines are now approaching 100 years old – something Clothilde feels is key to the quality of their L’Exception bottling.

This vine age, alongside 18 months in barrel, lends more complexity and structure than you’d expect for such a simple appellation.

Similarly, for Jean-Louis Trapet, of Domaine Trapet, Passetoutgrains is an important part of their heritage: ‘It remains a living testimony of what Burgundy once was,’ he says.

A wine of the future?

With climate change, however, Gamay is not just part of Burgundy’s past – it could be key to its future.

It ripens more slowly and is more stable in the face of extreme conditions.

Romain Taupenot (of Domaine Taupenot-Merme) notes how lowly appellations have benefitted from global warming, now consistently ripening in a way that simply wasn’t the case 20-25 years ago.

‘I’m a big, big lover of Gamay,’ says Benoît Stehly, who is at the helm of Domaine Georges Lignier.

He explains how well-adapted the grape is to Burgundy’s modern climate – creating wines of freshness and energy.

Most importantly, he adds, Passetoutgrains offers ‘a friendly bottle at a friendly price’.

Beyond Burgundy

Producers beyond Burgundy are even echoing the style. In Hokkaido, Japan, cult winemaker Takahiko Soga (Domaine Takahiko) makes a Passetoutgrains that blends Pinot Noir and Zweigelt, while in Oregon and California, Sashi Moorman has experimented with Gamay for years.

For the entry-level Pinot Noir at Evening Land, he blends in around 10% Gamay – inspired in part by the tradition in Piedmont of blending a little Barbera with Nebbiolo.

It adds, he says, ‘a little playfulness,’ making the wine more charming – perfect for a style designed for everyday consumption.

Low yields are key, however, to producing high quality, he argues – especially in the naturally more generous Gamay.

I’m not here to tell you that Passetoutgrains can rival Echézeaux, Musigny or Chambertin: these wines will not offer the complexity of the grands crus.

But Passetoutgrains doesn’t come with that price tag, either. These are affordable, juicy wines – irresistible and moreish.

More than that, they offer a great introduction to a producer’s style – before you plump for something more special.

Don’t dismiss their deliciousness either, for when they’re made by a top producer – they’ve got a capacity to evolve that you might not expect.

Passetoutgrains

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In the heart of Pauillac, where iconic Bordeaux estates often dominate headlines with soaring prices and strong marketing, Château Batailley stands as a quiet counterpoint.

This fifth growth property, as ranked in the 1855 classification, delivers consistent quality at prices that remain accessible, making it a beacon for value in a region frequently criticised for rising prices.

Owned by the Castéja family since 1961, Batailley forms part of its broader Borie-Manoux group, which spans Left and Right Bank properties alongside a sizeable négociant business.

Yet the estate shuns the spotlight – no flashy tasting rooms, tourist facilities or polished press releases; instead just a commitment to quality, rooted in decades of experience and knowhow.

As Frédéric Castéja, who oversees broad business operations alongside his father Philippe, puts it: ‘We don’t shout, we’re not flashy. That’s not our style.’

Instead it’s the wines that speak, through their structure, longevity and reliability – even in challenging vintages.

This humility, combined with family control over distribution through the négociant business, ensures Batailley offers real value both for consumer and investor: wines with long drinking windows and en primeur releases that will generally appreciate modestly and reliably over time, rewarding buyers without great speculation.

Spanning 63ha mostly on the flat Pauillac plateau – ‘tractors can do 1km without turning,’ Frédéric points out – the vineyards are planted on deep, ancient Günz gravel soils blended with silica and sand.

Impressive ageing potential

This landscape helps to imbue the wines with firm structures and impressive ageing potential.

Plantings follow classic proportions for the Pauillac region: 70%-80% Cabernet Sauvignon and much of the rest Merlot, with smaller amounts of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc (1%-4% in all).

‘We’ve always had four grape varieties,’ Frédéric explains, noting that the varieties help to build the second wine – Lions de Batailley, sourced from the younger vines of the vineyard – which means an estate signature is retained without diluting quality.

Yields average 45-50hl/ha, with recent lows in challenging years around 30hl/ha due to adverse weather.

Viticulture at Batailley is meticulous yet pragmatic. Replanting targets parcels more than 50 years old, allowing for fallow periods of three to four years.

No herbicides are used, and working methods combine modern practicality and biodynamic influences – treatments have followed moon cycles since 2005 on the Right Bank and since 2010 on the Left Bank.

Five hectares – half of a plot shared with neighbouring sister property Château Lynch-Moussas – have been under organic trial since 2016, informed by the family’s fully certified organic 75ha Provence estate Château Bas (acquired in 2020), which produces reds, rosés and whites – but there are no plans for certification here in Pauillac.

‘We need to be careful in Bordeaux – it’s not the best appellation for organics, because of the climate conditions,’ Castéja cautions, underscoring a philosophy that marries respect for nature with realism.

Biodiversity benefits enormously, however, from the 200ha or more of forests surrounding Lynch-Moussas – one of the largest wooded buffers in Pauillac and nearby St-Julien.

Lengthy tradition

The Batailley estate ranks among the Médoc’s oldest, with vines cultivated since the 17th century on land named after the 1453 Battle of Castillon, a decisive clash in the Hundred Years’ War in which French forces finally wrested control of Gascony from the English.

Documented ownership begins in the 18th century with the Saint-Martin family of Pauillac, then in 1791 shares passed to merchant Guillaume Pécholier.

A transformative phase arrived in 1816 when Daniel Guestier bought it, expanding vineyards, upgrading facilities and boosting quality, ultimately earning classification status in the 1855 official ranking.

Subsequent owners included Guestier’s son (1847) and banker Constant Halphen (1866). The Borie era started in 1924, with the purchase by brothers Marcel and Francis, which led to the 1941 division into two separate properties, Château Batailley (Marcel) and Château Haut-Batailley (Francis).

Denise Borie and Emile Castéja took the reins in 1961, with Emile guiding things for four decades, embracing innovations such as early picking machines, though these were rarely used.

A heart attack in 2001 shifted control to Frédéric’s father Philippe, beginning ‘just in time for harvest picking’, Frédéric recalls.

Philippe, along with consultant at the time Denis Dubourdieu, prioritised meticulous vineyard mapping and planting before an expansion of the vat house in 2006 to 62 stainless steel vats (about one per hectare, spanning 50hl-200hl in capacity), which enabled plot-by-plot vinification.

‘It took them at least 10-12 years to understand the vineyard,’ Frédéric adds.

Winemaking is classic, slowly moving with the times to include cooler fermentations for greater fruit purity, but there are no radical processes here.

Growing the range

Technical director Didier Chadourne (since 2013), vineyard manager Olivier Gourdin (since 2022), and cellar master Hugues Mathieu (since 2023) collaborate with consultants Axel Marchal (recipient of the Decanter Rising Star award in 2021) and Valérie Lavigne.

Fermentation is at low temperatures: ‘Never above 28 degrees,’ Mathieu notes, down from 30°-31°C a decade ago, with the aim of attaining ‘more freshness and more fruit at the end’.

Early picking preserves quality, especially in the Merlot: ‘There’s a peak with this grape and then quality goes down – it’s easier to pick before that point than just after.’

Until 2014, the estate produced only a grand vin, but that year saw the inaugural vintage of a second wine, Lions de Batailley, and this was followed by a third wine, Pauillac de Batailley, in 2018.

Between them they have broadened consumer access, while ensuring the best fruit goes to preserve the quality of the flagship wine.

Production typically divides roughly two-thirds to the grand vin, with the remainder split between the second and third wines.

The grand vin sees the longest ageing in French oak – 16-18 months, with 55%-60% new barrels – imparting structure and complexity, suitable for long cellaring.

In contrast, Lions de Batailley and Pauillac de Batailley use significantly less new oak (typically 40%-45% for Lions, 20%-30% for the third wine) and shorter ageing, resulting in wines that are more approachable in their youth: softer, fruit-forward and ready to enjoy sooner, making them ideal for earlier drinking without sacrificing the estate’s signature character.

Value package

The grand vin’s style is distinctly its own: a beautiful underlying strength that captures classic Pauillac power – cassis, blackcurrant, minty freshness, graphite and soft cedar spice – yet tempered with a certain delicacy and finesse.

It is never overly heavy or extracted; instead, it offers silky tannins, vibrant fruit and a pronounced mineral backbone that leads to an unmistakable gravelly, flinty finish.

This balance – potent yet beguiling, structured yet graceful – makes Château Batailley particularly rewarding when given time in bottle, which allows the muscular frame to integrate and the elegance to shine through.

It excels also in so-called ‘off vintages’, when it still maintains precision, focus and above all drinkability.

The value that Batailley offers is informed by the négociant side of the family business.

Borie-Manoux handles 30 million bottles annually (1-1.3 million coming from the family-owned estates alone, involving three dedicated bottling lines), granting the company insight into the overall context of the market as a whole.

‘We control our distribution and our pricing direction, but also, as négociants selling neighbours’ wines, inflation is restrained,’ says Frédéric.

‘If we raise our price, we can’t tell other people to be reasonable with their prices.’ When someone buys Batailley en primeur (while the wines are still being aged in casks before bottling and release) ‘they know two or three years later the price will be higher naturally’, Frédéric says.

‘We want people to know they’ve done a good deal.’

Sizing up a legacy

Future plans at Batailley include a vat room refurbishment, though ‘only if it’s actually going to add value to the wine – there’s no point otherwise’, Frédéric says resolutely.

Heritage is preserved in tangible ways. The estate maintains an extraordinary library cellar with some 65,000 bottles stretching back to 1881 – the oldest vintage still held in quantity.

Whole racks are dedicated to legendary years such as 1961, 1949 and others – in large-format bottles, too – allowing the family or occasionally special clients to buy a birth-year bottle or a milestone vintage from well-preserved stock.

Few estates retain such an extensive collection in-house, a testament to meticulous storage and the family’s reverence for its history.

‘It’s a library for everybody, for my children and grandchildren,’ Frédéric says, capturing the intergenerational spirit.

Large formats play a special role in this legacy. The estate regularly takes orders for magnums, double magnums, imperials and even larger sizes up to 27L, catering to collectors and special occasions.

In 2024, to mark the centenary of Borie-Castéja ownership, the family reintroduced the MarieJeanne format at 2.25L (three 75cl bottles) – a historical Bordeaux vessel somewhat forgotten since the mid-20th century.

Frédéric describes it as offering ‘the best exchange between wine and oxygen’ – optimal for ageing and development.

Presented in elegant wooden cases with a commemorative red label (£131-£137 Justerini & Brooks, Mann Fine Wine, Uncorked), it has become a keeper format, available alongside traditional sizes (75cl, £35 Cru Wine, Fine Wine Direct, Mr Wheeler) and underscoring the estate’s blend of tradition and thoughtful innovation.

Enduring appeal

The Castéjas champion their own estates; Philippe, 77 (who was flying to Hong Kong at the time of our meeting and impressive vertical tasting), still travels relentlessly, while Frédéric logs three months yearly abroad.

But they also fly the flag for the region more broadly. ‘I hope I’m a good ambassador... we need to be good ambassadors for Bordeaux.’

With 17 children among the family’s eight shareholders (three of whom work in the wine business), continuity seems assured, though Frédéric emphasises choice: ‘There’s no pressure on the next generation; they must do what they want.’

In fact, he’d rather they worked elsewhere before joining the family business if they wish, as he did.

Château Batailley’s enduring appeal lies in this quiet confidence – deep roots, precise craft, unwavering value – proving that exceptional Pauillac can remain approachable and rewarding.

Pauillac paradigm: a taste of Château Batailley in 12 vintages

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Château Lafleur 2025 was offered by UK merchant Justerini & Brooks at around £1,800 per three bottles in bond (IB) on Friday 15 May.

Rated 97 points by Decanter’s Georgie Hindle, Lafleur 2025 represents the first vintage under the generic ‘Vin de France’ label.

Owner the Guinaudeau family announced last year that it was taking the producer out of the Pomerol and Bordeaux appellations, in order to have more flexibility to meet climate change-related challenges in the vineyards.

‘Bravo’ said Hindle of the Lafleur 2025 in-barrel. ‘A quietly compelling wine from Lafleur this year.’

Lafleur is highly sought-after and has a reputation for stable release pricing – even if vintages can subsequently soar on the secondary market.

At £1,800 per 3x75cl IB, the 2025 wine looks a shade more expensive than the 2024 vintage release (reported at £3,530 per 6x75cl IB).

Allocation only

Getting hold of it could be a challenge. Justerini & Brooks said, ‘Production is even smaller than usual in 2025, as such, everything is offered subject to our allocation process.’

However, other 2025-vintage releases from the Lafleur stable include Le Grand Village, also now a Vin de France and offered at £89 per 6x75cl IB.

‘I so often think of this as one of Bordeaux's best value wines and it's brilliant in 2025,’ said Decanter’s Hindle, rating the wine at 93pts.

Other releases included Lafleur second wine Les Pensées 2025 (95pts), offered at £400 (3x75cl IB).

A slow-burning early campaign but 'bargains' to be found...

More Bordeaux 2025 wines were released en primeur in the past week, including St-Emilion’s Cheval Blanc, as well as Duhart-Milon, Domaine de Chevalier and La Lagune.

Many big hitters kept their powder dry in the first fortnight of the campaign, though; perhaps gauging the mood.

While critical appraisal for Bordeaux 2025 points to a highly promising vintage maturing châteaux barrel cellars, the vintage arrives to an ongoing challenging wine market – following a period of falling fine wine prices – and macroeconomic uncertainty.

Prices have nudged upwards on several 2025 releases so far, yet some still compare favourably against en primeur pricing over the past decade.

Releases snapshot

UK merchant Farr Vintners offered Domaine de Chevalier 2025 red (94-95pts, Decanter) at £216 per 6x75cl in bond (IB), for example, adding, ‘slightly up on last year but apart from that, the lowest price here since the 2014’.

At current prices, however, some recent back-vintages were available for less, according to Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade.

Haut-Médoc third growth Château La Lagune 2025 (94pts) was €21 per bottle ex-négociant and £259 per 12 bottles (IB).

That's up slightly year-on-year but also lower than every other campaign since at least the 2008 vintage, showed Liv-ex data, noting the 2025 was also one of the less expensive recent La Lagune wines at current market prices.

Duhart-Milon 2025 debuted this week after receiving a 95-point rating from Hindle, who described the wine as 'brilliant' this vintage.

It was €48 per bottle ex-négociant, up slightly on 2024 and matching the 2019-vintage release price, and £588 per 12x75cl IB in the UK (Source: Liv-ex).

Corney & Barrow (C&B) said, 'We were very keen on the quality of Duhart in 2025 but sadly the lower market prices of older equivalent-quality vintages make it a pass, unless you are a die-hard Duhart enthusiast.'

The merchant highlighted several ‘bargains’ among early releases, including Margaux-appellation Château Angludet 2025 (94pts, Decanter) at £120 per 6x75cl IB.

‘Holding their price on the 2024 release, they are to be commended,’ it said.

Sales so far

It remains too early to properly assess sales in 2025, although there have been a few highlights.

Thomas Parker MW at Farr Vintners previously said the merchant sold a decent volume of Batailley, while Miles Davis, of Vinum Fine Wines, told Decanter that the group sold more Pontet-Canet 2025 than expected.

Will Hargrove, C&B's head of fine wine, said the merchant’s offers on Ets JP Moueix wines and Mitjavile (including Tertre Roteboeuf) were ‘going down well’ with customers.

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New York’s vibrant hospitality scene was celebrated last week at the Star Wine List of the Year 2026 awards. The event recognised the city’s leading restaurants and wine bars across 13 categories, highlighting the venues currently setting the benchmark for cellar depth, by-the-glass creativity and expert service.

Winners across the 10 international categories will now advance to compete at the Star Wine List of the Year Global Final, taking place in Sweden this June, hosted by Terra Skåne.

The awards were judged by a high-profile panel of industry experts, including Master of Wine and Master Sommelier Doug Frost, ASI Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa and the Middle East 2024 Mikk Parre, and renowned New York sommelier Yannick Benjamin, also a Decanter World Wine Awards judge.

Top cellars and by-the-glass innovators

Among the leading Gold Star winners was 2-Michelin starred restaurant Atera, which collected top honours for its extensive and meticulously curated cellar programme. Meanwhile, Benoit New York was recognised for the strength and diversity of its by-the-glass offering, proving that great wine doesn't always require pulling a cork on a full bottle.

Chambers was also highly celebrated, securing (for a third year) the Gold Star for the Sustainability Prize, a category of growing importance to both trade and consumers. Brooklyn wine destination The Four Horsemen featured prominently among the winners as well, underlining its continued influence on New York’s contemporary, low-intervention wine scene.

Other notable venues recognised across the awards included newcomer Saint Urban, New York institution Peasant and Coqodaq for its sparkling wine selection, alongside more regional category winners.

The results reflect the sheer breadth of wine experiences now available across the city, ranging from destination fine-dining restaurants to more compact, sommelier-led neighbourhood wine bars.

The diversity on offer is epitomised by Special Jury Prize winner Noreetuh, a modern Hawaiian restaurant in the East Village, offering wine lovers something out of the ordinary.

Precision and personality

In comments published alongside the awards, the judges highlighted both the rigorous quality and the distinct personality of the winning lists.

Alongside a strong foundation in classic regions and producers, 'New York reveals a dynamic and confident wine culture, where sommeliers embrace individuality, championing lesser-known regions and low-intervention wines with conviction,''said Parre.

Reflecting on the strength of the city's wine offerings, Frost MS MW added: 'New York does not starve for big wine lists, filled with the names of wines most of us can only dream of drinking, much less buying.'

For consumers, the awards offer a timely snapshot of where to drink wine well in New York right now, whether searching for classic fine wine vintages, grower Champagne, emerging regions or adventurous tasting flights.

A global wine hub

The Star Wine List results reinforce New York’s position as a global epicentre for fine wine, arriving just ahead of next month’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York.

Taking place in Manhattan, the event will see top producers from around the world gather for exclusive tastings and masterclasses. Among the experts involved, award-winner Chamber's Pascaline Lepeltier will co-host a sold out masterclass with Champagne Salon & Delamotte.

A full list of winners and categories is available via Star Wine List.

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There are rich pickings for fans of vintage and prestige Champagne this summer as wines from one of Champagne’s few trilogies – sequences of three fine seasons where single-vintage wines are widely produced by the houses – start to hit the market.

A stellar trio

2018, 2019 and 2020 all featured hot, sunny weather, with subtle variations in rainfall and temperature meaning each has its own character.

For the time being it’s the 2018s that are starting to trickle through.

‘It was a fantastic vintage,’ says Charles-Armand de Belenet, managing director of Champagne Bollinger, which launched the 2018 La Grande Année in both white and rosé editions this spring.

‘After the nightmare of 2017, we had perfect weather, with lots of rain at the start of the year and then beautiful sunshine.’

There will be very few Champagne producers who did not make a 2018 vintage, not only because of the quality but also because the yields were among the most generous ever recorded.

The question marks in this vintage are in terms of depth, concentration and low acidity. The wines are instantly delicious, but are they sometimes a bit too easy-going?

As demonstrated, though, by this fine pair from Bollinger, as well as the latest vintage releases from Louis Roederer and Laurent-Perrier reviewed below, this is a year that, while certainly warm, sunny and approachable, offers more elegance than previous heatwave summers such as 2015, 2009, 2006 or 2003.

Pol Roger’s vintage rosé from the following year, 2019, widely viewed as the most complete and perfect of the trilogy – may be the most impressive rendition of this cuvée yet.

Unexpected stardom for an underrated vintage

It’s not only widely the fêted vintages to look out for, though. Charles Heidsieck offers only the fifth vintage of its prestige blanc de blancs, Blanc des Millénaires from 2017, a year widely regarded as a disaster in Champagne thanks to fast-moving acetic rot at harvest.

‘In mid August, the talk was of the vintage of the century,’ says Charles Heidsieck cellar master Emilien Erard, ‘but two weeks later, it was a disaster’.

A disaster, that is, almost everywhere apart from the chalky Côte des Blancs, where the resilient Chardonnay grapes on fast-drying soils escaped much of the rot and offered up a harvest of fine intensity and quality.

With the exception of isolated growers and an excellent, if low, production of Dom Pérignon, blanc de blancs will be the best style of the vintage – and Blanc des Millénaires will prove among the very finest.

Heading back in time

Two fine releases from Billecart-Salmon from the late-ripening 2013 season proved that this vintage, despite its bright acidities and reputation for relative austerity, can still yield quite approachable, welcoming wines in comparison to higher-acidity vintages of the past.

These are impeccably built cuvées that, while ready to drink in terms of balance, will gain much in terms of complexity from further cellaring.

In the meanwhile, enjoy more approachable releases such as Lanson’s excellent Noble 2012, as well as Henriot’s Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 2015, which reverts back to its much-loved historical name before the change to Cuvée Hemera in 2005.

Finally, after a Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2012 that was arguably the finest ever release of this lesser-known Pinot Noir-dominant rosé prestige cuvée comes the 2013.

An entirely different vintage in character yet one that, especially given a little patience, will prove this cuvée just as deserving as its more famous blanc de blancs sibling.

Latest Champagne releases

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At the table with Carlton McCoy MS

Carlton McCoy has spent decades immersed in the world of fine wine – from restaurant floors and cellars to overseeing some of Napa Valley and Bordeaux’s most prestigious estates.

Now, ahead of a special Heitz Cellar masterclass at Decanter's Fine Wine Encounter in New York on 6 June, McCoy sat down with Decanter to discuss how Napa Cabernet is changing, why collectors should rethink old assumptions around aging and what makes mature Napa wines such compelling bottles at the table today.

Join Carlton McCoy for a one-of-a-kind tasting of Heitz Cellar wines, including rare library vintages dating back to 1979 at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York on 6 June.

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Sometimes, I forget how delicious Bordeaux is. Good Bordeaux, that is.

There’s an ocean of Bordeaux that will underwhelm you – but, when it’s good, it really is the best (just don’t tell the Burgundians).

Mouthwatering, fresh and utterly moreish, ageing with a grace I can only dream of: there’s a reason the wine trade makes such a fuss when the new vintage is unveiled.

While the 2025s are just starting their élevage (check out Georgie Hindle’s en primeur report on the anticipated vintage), there are plenty of vintages on the market that you should or could be drinking now – and not necessarily from the most lauded years.

The 2012 vintage was underrated on release, but its tricky conditions produced a host of wines that are elegant, balanced and aromatically enchanting.

Château Brane-Cantenac was a highlight in recent tastings – a wine that has old-school appeal and is singing now, while some, such as Château Cos d’Estournel, still feel youthful.

Similarly, the frost-bitten 2017s are charming and juicy – tuck into them and enjoy.

Pleasant surprises and promises

I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the openness of some 2015s – such as Château Giscours or Château Clerc Milon.

It’s a vintage I associate with muscle and power, and wines that often seem to have frozen in their evolution.

Château Montrose, however, bucks the trend, as well as its own reputation for austerity (shaken off in more recent vintages): it’s a wine I'd love to have in my cellar.

The 2019 vintage is deserving of its reputation, and it’s amazing how approachable some wines from that year already are – don’t be scared to test the waters if you were wise enough to stock up.

Lastly, it’s a reminder I myself need: don’t forget about white Bordeaux.

Ageworthy, textured, utterly delicious and still often brilliant value – it’s something I’m vowing to drink more of.

Bordeaux wines

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Authentic Bordeaux travel: See the region through a local's eyes with our new expert guide

Bordeaux is often portrayed through its most famous names: classified growths, grand châteaux and bottles that command eye-watering prices.

But that image tells only part of the story. Beyond the prestige labels lies a living city where wine is part of daily routine rather than ceremony – poured in neighbourhood bars, opened at the market and shared over lunch without formality.

This article focuses on that more approachable side of Bordeaux. The places where you can taste excellent wines without spending a fortune, eat well in unpretentious settings, stay in characterful accommodation and experience the region in a way that feels grounded in everyday life.

From vineyard picnics and creative châteaux visits to lively markets, good-value restaurants and distinctive places to stay, here is where to find an authentic Bordeaux experience.

At the Châteaux

Let’s start with Bordeaux’s main attraction: the wineries.

While the region is often associated with prestigious labels, classified growths and grand architecture, the everyday reality of wine tourism in Bordeaux is far more accessible.

Across the region, a wide network of family-run estates and historic châteaux welcome visitors with relaxed, informative and reasonably priced experiences, making vineyard discovery open to a much broader audience than many travellers expect.

Over the years, I have visited dozens of properties throughout Bordeaux, from the limestone slopes of St-Emilion on the Right Bank to the gravel terraces of the Médoc on the Left, and some of the most memorable experiences were also the simplest: a tasting led by someone from the estate, a casual lunch overlooking the vines, or a slow afternoon wandering through the gardens with a glass in hand.

These quieter moments often leave a stronger impression than the most polished tasting rooms. Several estates combine wine visits with dining in the vineyards, allowing visitors to turn a tasting into a longer, more immersive experience.

Dining in the vineyards

In St-Emilion, Château de Candale’s Atelier de Candale restaurant offers a relaxed setting overlooking the rolling slopes, where regional dishes are served with the estate’s wines and views stretch across the surrounding vineyards and medieval village.

On the Left Bank in the heart of Margaux, Château Marquis de Terme places a strong emphasis on food and wine pairing, with a chef-led restaurant menu built around seasonal produce and designed to complement the estate’s wines. It offers a way to experience Left Bank wines at the table rather than only in the tasting room.

Picnic at a château

If there is one experience many locals genuinely enjoy in the region, it is picnicking at a château. Several estates prepare picnic baskets that visitors can enjoy in their gardens after a tour.

The formula is uncomplicated: bread, local charcuterie, cheese and a bottle of wine, consumed slowly among the vines.

Château Soutard (St-Emilion, a 10-minute walk northeast of the town centre) and Château de Cérons (Cérons, in the Graves region, along the river Garonne south of the city) both offer excellent picnic options in beautiful surroundings.

Within the town of St-Emilion itself, the Couvent des Cordeliers offers another easy option, where visitors can assemble a picnic on-site and enjoy it in the cloister courtyard.

Cook it yourself

For those looking for more hands-on experiences, Château Malartic-Lagravière (in the Pessac-Léognan appellation, just south of the city) organises cooking workshops that combine food preparation with wine pairing.

Château 'escape' games

Companies such as Oenanim host oenological escape games inside working estates such as Château Pas de l’Ane and Château Balestard la Tonnelle (both in St-Emilion).

Cycling in the vineyards

Cycling is another enjoyable way to explore the vineyards. E-bikes make vineyard exploration much more accessible, less strenuous and eco-friendly, often with free or low-cost rentals from estates – it’s always worth enquiring.

In Sauternes, a little further down the river from Cérons, Château Guiraud provides bikes as part of its vineyard tours, allowing guests to ride through the appellation, while across the Garonne, north of Libourne, the Prieuré Marquet estate offers cycling and carriage tours across its property.

Winery tours for art lovers

Several Bordeaux estates place art and aesthetics at the centre of their identity, offering visitors an experience that goes beyond wine alone.

St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé estate Château de Ferrand – owned since 1978 by the Bich family (of Bic pen fame) – integrates contemporary art throughout the property.

Highlights include a strikingly designed tasting room (Salon Bic, featuring a mural created with Bic pens by artist Alexandre Doucin) and rotating exhibitions from the family’s Bic Contemporary Art Collection, blending wine heritage with creative storytelling.

In the Médoc’s Margaux appellation, Château d’Arsac is well known for its outdoor sculpture park, where modern artworks punctuate the vineyard landscape.

Back in Pessac-Léognan, Château Smith Haut Lafitte is renowned for its established art collection. Visitors can also discover the Forest of the Senses, a walking trail combining art installations and nature.

Meanwhile, Château Malromé, located near St-André-du-Bois in the Entre-deux-Mers region, connects wine with fine art history as the former family home of painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. The château now houses a museum dedicated to his life and work.

Where to eat and drink in Bordeaux city

Bordeaux is synonymous with wine, but it is equally compelling as a food city. Beyond its numerous Michelin-starred restaurants, the city offers a wide range of informal, good-value places where visitors can experience regional cooking in relaxed settings.

Bordeaux wine bars to visit

One of the easiest ways to experience everyday Bordeaux life is through its wine bars.

Wine bars here are not only about wine; they function as casual neighbourhood venues where people share plates, open bottles and often end up staying for dinner.

Wine More Time

Wine More Time is a good example, offering small sharing plates built around high-quality locally produced charcuterie, cheeses and seasonal ingredients, paired with a strong by-the-glass selection that includes many organic and small-producer wines.

On warmer days, sitting at one of the outdoor tables on Rue St-James, in sight of the Grosse Cloche (one of Bordeaux’s oldest medieval bell towers), is an experience that’s hard to beat.

ComplanTerra

Nearby in Rue Ste-Colombe, ComplanTerra focuses largely on organic, biodynamic and natural wines, with a food offering centred on simple, well-sourced products.

The atmosphere is relaxed and slightly alternative, and the occasional oyster evenings are a nice reminder of Bordeaux’s close ties to the Atlantic coast.

L’Officine

L’Officine in St-Seurin, a residential neighbourhood just to the northwest of the historic centre, is a place where friends meet after work or gather to celebrate.

It offers a carefully chosen wine list alongside tartines, charcuterie and small plates, in a setting that feels cosy, lively and very local.

Traditional restaurants: Bouillon revival

For travellers looking for traditional French cooking at reasonable prices, Bordeaux has embraced the bouillon revival.

The city now has three bouillon-style restaurants – establishments that serve classic dishes such as steak frites, beef tartare, oeufs mayonnaise or leeks vinaigrette, in generous portions and without ceremony.

These are located near Gare St-Jean, in the historic St-Pierre district and close to Place des Quinconces, a short walk north of the Grand Théâtre building on Place de la Comédie.

Bordeaux bistros with a local vibe

Bistros remain another essential part of Bordeaux’s dining culture, and are one of the easiest ways to eat well without heading into fine-dining territory.

Bo-Tannique

Bo-Tannique in Rue Tustal, east of the impressive St-André cathedral, is my go-to place whenever I have guests who are visiting Bordeaux for the first time.

The menu changes regularly, always based on seasonal produce, with dishes that feel creative but never overworked, and a wine list that makes it easy to explore interesting bottles without overspending.

Le Bouchon Bordelais

Le Bouchon Bordelais, tucked away down the cobbled Rue Courbin, leans more towards a modern take on regional cuisine from southwest France.

The menu changes every month according to what is in season, with dishes inspired by local traditions but presented in a lighter, more contemporary way.

It is a good place to understand how classic flavours of the region are being reinterpreted without losing their roots.

Oysters at Marché des Capucins

If there is one place that captures everyday Bordeaux at its most authentic, it is the Marché des Capucins, between the historic centre and Gare St-Jean, which is often referred to as ‘the belly of the city’.

Unlike many French markets where visitors mainly come to shop, Capucins also functions as one of Bordeaux’s gastronomic centres, with numerous counters and small eateries.

Here, many people come primarily to eat. You will find Basque influences alongside classic French dishes. The main attraction, however, is oysters.

At Chez Jean-Mi, locals gather for plates of number ‘3’ or ‘4’ oysters served with lemon, bread and butter and accompanied by a glass of dry white Bordeaux.

Although Arcachon Bay, on the coast to the west, remains the historic heart of oyster farming, enjoying oysters at Capucins is one of the simplest and most representative food experiences the city offers.

For visitors seeking authenticity and value, this everyday food culture offers a far clearer picture of Bordeaux than its most exclusive tables.

Beyond the vineyards

Bordeaux is a lively city with a strong cultural scene, and many of its most enjoyable experiences come from exploring at an easy pace.

One of the most enjoyable ways to see Bordeaux is from the Garonne river. Short sightseeing or aperitif cruises offer views of the city’s 18th-century facades, bridges and riverfront while enjoying a glass of wine or a light snack, giving a simple introduction to Bordeaux’s port heritage.

Beyond wine, Bordeaux is also home to other forms of local craftsmanship that are worth discovering. In the city’s imposing former World War II submarine base, Moon Harbour produces French single malt whisky within one of the site’s massive concrete bunkers.

It is the only whisky distillery in Bordeaux itself, and visits include an introduction to the distillation and ageing process followed by a tasting, offering a refreshing and unexpected counterpoint to Bordeaux’s wine-focused identity.

Next-door, Bassins des Lumières transforms the enormous chambers of the submarine base into immersive digital art exhibitions dedicated to major artists and contemporary creations.

For a more informal experience, renting a bike is one of the best ways to explore Bordeaux. Bike rental stations are spread across the city, and one of the most popular routes is the loop from Pont de Pierre to Pont Jacques Chaban-Delmas.

This ride allows visitors to see several faces of Bordeaux in one outing: the historic centre, the former port and warehouse district around Bacalan, and La Bastide, the greener, more residential neighbourhood over the river on the Right Bank.

On the Right Bank

The Right Bank, in particular, feels more local and less touristic. It is where many Bordelais spend their weekends, especially around places such as Chez Alriq for live music and riverside drinks, or Darwin Ecosystem, a former military barracks turned into a creative hub with street art, cafes, workshops and an alternative, community-driven atmosphere. Both can be found in La Bastide.

Many visitors also find that some of their most enjoyable moments in Bordeaux come from simply wandering: walking between neighbourhoods, stopping for coffee or a glass of wine, browsing small shops and lingering in public squares.

Where to stay in Bordeaux

In the city

Travellers do not need luxury hotels to enjoy a comfortable and well-located stay in Bordeaux.

The city centre offers a wide choice of small guesthouses and boutique-style properties that provide a more personal experience than large international chains.

In St-Seurin to the west of the city centre, Maison Manège offers elegant rooms in a historic building within walking distance of the main sights.

Villa Victor Louis, also centrally located, provides a similar balance of character and convenience.

For a more affordable base, Bordeaux Cosy B&B in the Nansouty neighbourhood, 2km south of the city, allows visitors to stay slightly outside the busiest streets while remaining within easy reach of the city centre.

In or near the vineyards

For travellers willing to venture beyond the city, the surrounding countryside offers memorable alternatives. Les Roulottes Vesta in the heart of the Pessac-Léognan appellation on the Left Bank provides wooden caravans and atypical gîtes set in natural surroundings, appealing to those looking for something a little different.

Sleeping among the vineyards remains one of the most rewarding options.

Estates such as Château de La Rivière in Fronsac on the Right Bank and Château de la Grave in the commune of Bourg offer guest rooms within working wineries, allowing visitors to wake up with views over the vines rather than city streets.

Enjoy a different side to Bordeaux

Whether you choose to stay in the heart of the city or among the vineyards, Bordeaux rewards travellers who take the time to explore beyond its most famous names.

From relaxed château visits and vineyard picnics to market lunches, wine bars and easy cultural experiences, the region offers so many varied ways to enjoy great wine and food simply and authentically, without excess.

For those looking for a more approachable side of Bordeaux, the most memorable moments are more often than not found in simple places, good bottles and everyday settings.

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For winemakers, producing long-lived styles is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, ageability confers prestige. And prestige elevates prices.

But on the other hand, long-lived wines can discourage regular purchases. Producers of, say, Port have a hard time convincing their customers to buy every year, as many clients already have some gradually maturing in the cellars – and it can last a lifetime.

Making wines such as Provence rosé can be a better business model. The average bottle price might be lower, but they’re consumed immediately; so if you like them, they’ll need to be replaced.

What about Côte-Rôtie?

When it comes to ageing, Côte-Rôtie can be enjoyed both young and old, but many of the best arrive at peak drinking between 10 and 20 years of age. It would be convenient if producers only released their wines when they reached this sweet spot, but holding wines for a decade before selling them isn’t commercially viable for most estates.

That’s why Stéphane Ogier’s new cuvée Mes Grands Lieux is so interesting. The new release is 2016, and Ogier says he will sell each subsequent vintage only after 10 year’s maturation.

Stéphane Ogier in brief

• First vintage bottled by Stéphane’s father Michel was 1983
• Stéphane joined the estate 1997
• Total size of estate: 43ha
• Surface in Côte-Rôtie: 14ha
• Individual parcels of vines in Côte-Rôtie: 35
• Lieux-dits in production in Côte-Rôtie: 22
• Mes Grands Lieux average production: 15,000 bottles

Change of range

Until now, there have been three quality levels in Ogier’s range of Côte-Rôties, following a notionally Burgundian model.

To start with, there is Mon Village, a blend of vineyards that contains vineyards across the appellation, particularly his younger vines.

Skipping straight to the top, there are his single-vineyard wines, which he produces in all but the most difficult years. He typically creates between six and nine, which are sold in a mixed selection case. This includes what he considers to be his ‘grand cru’ bottlings: Côte Blonde, Lancement and La Belle Hélène.

But not all of his single-vineyard wines are bottled separately. A larger proportion is blended together to make his Côte-Rôtie Réserve, which sits between Mon Village and his single vineyards.

It is this Réserve bottling that has evolved and has now been released at 10 years of age, under the Mes Grands Lieux label.

The decision to start ageing the wines before release came after he made some tweaks to the blend.

In 2015, he started incorporating more of his structured, ‘Brune’ side parcels and started including more whole clusters. From 2016, he realised this cuvée could now take – indeed required – extended ageing as a result.

‘I didn’t know it would be 10 years to begin with – just that I wanted to keep it,’ he says. The only was to ensure that people held it for long enough was to store it himself.

That’s why there has been no Réserve released since 2016. And why, in 2026, Mes Grands Lieux 2016 now sees the light of day.

Tasting Mes Grands Lieux

The blend changes from year to year. But to generalise, since the 2016 vintage, Mes Grands Lieux is made up of around a dozen lieux-dits, all of which are fermented separately then blended after ageing for around 24 months in barriques and (increasingly) demi-muids.

Around three quarters of the lieux-dits are situated on the schistous ‘Brune’ side of the appellation, and the wine is made of 96%-98% Syrah (the rest Viognier) with close to 50% whole clusters.

Having recently tasted every vintage made so far (2007, 2010, and 2012 to 2022 inclusive) I can confirm that the jump in quality from the 2016 is noticeable and significant. Most vintages before that point are good, but they don’t reach the same heights – particularly the excellence of the 2016, 2019 and 2020.

I was surprised by the quality of some of the more difficult vintages – notably 2014 and 2021 – until Ogier explained that he made no single-vineyard bottlings these years. Everything – even his Côte-Blonde, Lancement and Belle Hélène – went into Mes Grands Lieux.

My only quibble is this: 10 years is not always quite enough. The 2016, 2017, 2019, 2020 and 2022 will all improve even more with further time in bottle. So don’t assume Mes Grands Lieux guarantees a wine at peak drinking (though the 2018 and 2021 should be drinking well on release, as is everything pre-2016).

But this is a minor criticism. By ageing these wines in perfect conditions until they’re ready to drink, Ogier deserves our praise.

Crucially, they’re past that awkward teenage stage at around seven to eight years when many Côte-Rôties can show poorly. Any further ageing is optional, and down to us.

This is great for wine lovers – it provides access to Côte-Rôtie that’s been stored under optimum conditions either at peak drinking or not far off. And it’s a smart move for Ogier. Côte-Rôtie might be a long-lived wine, but these wines won’t hang around for long in people’s cellars. And they’ll likely be swiftly replaced with more.

Matt's tasting notes for Ogier's Côte-Rôtie Mes Grands Lieux: 2007 to 2022

Wines are listed in order of oldest to youngest

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Cheval Blanc 2025 released en primeur

Cheval Blanc 2025 was released in the fledgling Bordeaux en primeur campaign on Monday (11 May), and was offered by UK merchants at around £2,010 per six bottles in bond (IB).

It's among the first big names to emerge in the en primeur campaign for a much-admired Bordeaux 2025 vintage.

Rated 96 points by Decanter’s Georgie Hindle, Cheval Blanc 2025 represents one of the smallest vintages on record at the St-Emilion property – which could be a factor for collectors considering whether or not to purchase en primeur.

UK merchant Farr Vintners said it was the smallest Cheval Blanc vintage since 1961, except for 1991 when the wine wasn’t made.

Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, said Cheval Blanc was consequently releasing ‘all produced wine en primeur – Cheval Blanc will not hold back their usual third of production for ageing’.

It said the ex-négociant price on Cheval Blanc 2025 was €336 per bottle, up 20% year-on-year – although last year’s price was the lowest at en primeur since 2008.

Corney & Barrow reported 55,000 bottles of Cheval Blanc 2025 were produced, versus 128,000 in 2023. It added that the 2025 was cheaper than other recent, high-quality vintages, except for 2020.

‘Although the release price falls above our target price range, we believe this high quality wine deserves the attention of followers of the estate.’

Based on recent Decanter analysis of Cheval Blanc back to the 2014 vintage, using Liv-ex Market Price data, the 2025 en primeur offer is below the 11-vintage average price from 2014 to 2014, which was £4,243 (12x75cl IB) at the time of publication.

Early days for the campaign

It remains early days for this year’s Bordeaux en primeur campaign, with only a few wines so far released.

Châteaux must balance a challenging market picture against a highly regarded – yet small – 2025 crop.

Pontet-Canet kicked things off at the end of April and Miles Davis, market expert at Vinum Fine Wines, with offices in the UK and Asia, said this week that the merchant ‘sold a lot more than we thought we would’.

It won’t make or break the merchant’s year, but there are clearly still buyers who enjoy purchasing en primeur, he said.

Geraint Carter, of international merchant Bordeaux Index, said Pontet-Canet sold ‘reasonably well’, although he said the price was still on the high side – dampening the potential for wider interest.

L’Evangile and Fieuzal out of the blocks

Pomerol’s L’Evangile, which is part of Domaines Baron de Rothschild (Lafite), also released its 2025 vintage en primeur this week. Liv-ex said the wine was €96 per bottle ex-négociant, which is flat on last year’s release price.

Decanter’s Hindle rated L’Evangile 2025 at 96pts.

UK merchants offered the wine at around £582 (6x75cl IB), and Farr Vintners said that represents the lowest release price since 2014.

‘This [is] a welcome return to realistic pricing for one of the big names of Pomerol,’ it said.

Switching the focus to Pessac Léognan, Château de Fieuzal 2025 could be a value proposition to watch.

Rated 94pts for Decanter by Bordeaux expert Panos Kakaviatos, Château de Fieuzal 2025 red was offered in the UK at around £140 (6x75cl IB).

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On the Right Bank, or eastern side, of the Dordogne river, St-Emilion is one of Bordeaux’s most famous appellations, yet also one of its most complex.

Too often it’s defined solely by its upper echelon of Grand Cru Classé wines – the top-rated St-Emilion estates declared in an official classification that’s revised every 10 years.

Yet St-Emilion is, in reality, vast, fragmented and richly diverse, encompassing a patchwork of communes and terroirs that extend well beyond the medieval town itself.

Alongside prestigious châteaux sit modest, often family-run estates producing some of Bordeaux’s most compelling value wines.

For this reason, we turn our eye to the next rung on the quality ladder: St-Emilion Grand Cru (not ‘Classé’).

Sitting above the many wines that are labelled simply ‘St-Emilion’, Grand Cru is the dynamic middle ground that unites quality, personality and affordability.

There is inevitably confusion surrounding these levels of St-Emilion’s wine hierarchy.

St-Emilion refers simply to the appellation as a whole, while St-Emilion Grand Cru is a separate appellation.

To qualify for it, producers must be located within the delimited geographical/terroir area and adhere to stricter production rules, including lower yields, a slightly higher minimum alcohol and longer requirements for ageing before release.

A wine labelled St-Emilion Grand Cru is therefore not necessarily from a ‘classified’ château, and it is precisely within this Grand Cru category that some of the appellation’s best values can be found.

Freedom of expression

The appellation itself spans 5,450 hectares and eight communes: St-Emilion, St-Christophe-des-Bardes, St-Etienne-de-Lisse, St-Hippolyte, St-Laurent-des-Combes, St-Pey-d’Armens, St-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens and Vignonet.

This geographical breadth is matched by considerable geological and climatic variation – four principal soil types shape the style of the wines.

At the heart of the appellation lies the limestone plateau surrounding the medieval town of St-Emilion.

While vine rooting is limited by the bedrock, the porous limestone acts like a sponge, supplying water via capillary action during dry summers and preserving freshness in the resulting wines.

On the surrounding slopes, particularly in St-Christophe-des-Bardes, St-Hippolyte and St-Laurent-des-Combes, clay-limestone soils allow deeper root penetration, good drainage and moderated water supply, producing structured, complex wines built for ageing.

Further east, particularly around St-Etienne-deLisse and St-Pey-d’Armens, a subtle Mediterranean influence introduces slightly warmer conditions, favouring ripeness and plush fruit.

By contrast, in the southern sector of the appellation, including St-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens and Vignonet, closer to the Dordogne, gravelly and sandy soils derived from alluvial deposits dominate.

These free-draining, heat-retentive soils encourage early ripening and fruit-forward styles that are accessible in youth, though the best examples retain the capacity to age.

This mosaic of soils and influences underpins the appeal of St-Emilion Grand Cru as a value category.

Free of the expectations and pricing pressures of achieving or maintining classification, many Grand Cru producers – including standalone non-classified properties and second wines of classified estates – focus on site expression and measured use of oak.

The result is a broad stylistic spectrum, from taut, limestone-driven wines to more generous, fruit-led expressions, all of which offer genuine St-Emilion character at very affordable prices.

Selecting just 18 wines from such a deep pool is no easy task.

The wines I’ve chosen here are selected for consistency, a clear sense of place and real value, offering a compelling snapshot of an appellation where discovery remains part of the pleasure.

St-Emilion Grand Cru

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South Africa’s leading Cap Classique producer, Graham Beck, has launched its first English sparkling wine. The vintage cuvée is the first traditional method fizz made outside of South Africa by the Robertson-based winery.

Made in limited quantities, Graham Beck Artisan Collection English Sparkling 2018 is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in Hampshire and West Sussex. The house worked with four growers to source fruit.

The project was overseen by Graham Beck cellar master Pierre de Klerk and former cellar master and COO Pieter ‘Bubbles’ Ferreira. It marks their final collaboration before Ferreira's retirement.

Speaking to Decanter, Ferreira explained that the idea of making sparkling wine outside of South Africa went back many years. ‘Champagne is obviously the ultimate benchmark for any winemaker in the sparkling wine world,’ he said.

‘But we also did study tours to Franciacorta; we’ve been in Cava country and I’ve been visiting the UK vineyards since the days when there were only three or four wineries here.’

However it was a trip to Düsseldorf wine trade fair ProWein in 2016 that made the idea take root. ‘South Africa was in the New World hall, and next to the South African stand was Wine GB – brand new. There were maybe 10 producers flying the English flag,’ he said, adding that hype around England’s sparkling wine potential also started around that time.

Later that year, Ferreira toured southern England’s key wine regions with winery owner Antony Beck, son of Graham Beck. Helped by Ian Kellet, founder of Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire, they explored the unique geology of the landscape.

‘When we began studying the vineyards and chalk soils of southern England, we recognised the potential immediately,’ noted Ferreira. The chalk formations of the South Downs – similar to those found in Champagne – lend a distinctive mineral backbone to wines. While England’s cool maritime climate can produce base wines with vibrant acidity and pure aromas.

Nicknaming the project GBinGB – Graham Beck in Great Britain – the house decided to work with selected growers, rather than establishing its own vineyards, which as Ferreira explained who have been a 10-year project to achieve first vintage. Instead they set up contracts with growers, arranged access to cellar space in Hampshire and started to produce in 2018, which is widely regarded as one of finest English vintages to date.

‘2018 was a gorgeous vintage in the UK,’ confirmed Ferreira. ‘It was beautiful and ripe. It was sunny – a fantastic year.’

Ferreira and De Klerk visited the vineyards to determine harvest dates and were hands-on throughout vinification, assemblage, tirage, ageing and disgorging of the new cuvée. The parcels of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier were vinified separately, then assessed individually before the final blend was assembled.

A small proportion of the base wines underwent fermentation in neutral French oak, adding texture and complexity to the final cuvée. It was bottled early to maximise extended lees maturation, creating the signature Graham Beck creaminess.

‘The opportunity to bring Graham Beck’s philosophy of traditional-method sparkling winemaking to England is incredibly exciting,’ concluded De Klerk. ‘This wine reflects both the character of its English terroir and the precision and patience that define the House style. It’s a continuation of our pursuit of the perfect bubble.’

Graham Beck Artisan Collection English Sparkling 2018 will be released in the UK this summer with an RRP of £45.

Allocations will also be available in South Africa later in the year.

How does it taste?

Decanter's Regional Editor for South Africa, Julie Sheppard, reviews the new release.

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Andrew Lloyd Webber sells wine cellar 'treasures' for charity

Bidders from around the world vied for rare Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and other legendary wines previously collected by Andrew Lloyd Webber, in a special charity auction hosted by Christie’s to benefit the provision of musical instruments in schools.

Every lot found a buyer in the sale, which raised £517,910 for The Music in Secondary Schools Trust (MiSST), Christie’s said.

It said all hammer proceeds from the auction will go to The Andrew Lloyd Webber Programme, which is administered by MiSST and provides access to free instruments, weekly tuition and a classical music curriculum.

Sale highlights

A single bottle of Château Margaux 1900 sold for £35,000, including the buyer’s premium, way above its pre-sale high estimate of £7,000, showed Christie’s results from the auction, which ended on 6 May.

Now more than 125 years old, the wine’s label features the name ‘Pillet-Will’; Count Pillet-Will acquired the esteemed first growth estate in 1879.

While it is particularly rare to see wines of this age going under the hammer, Christie’s said the highest-priced lots in the Andrew Lloyd Webber cellar auction were wines from Burgundy’s fabled Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC).

Three bottles of Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 2005 sold for £56,250 including the buyer’s premium (high estimate: £45,000).

With 100% of hammer proceeds to be donated, Christie’s said the lot raised £45,000 for the MiSST-led programme.

Six bottles of DRC La Tâche 2005 sold for £50,000 including buyer’s premium (high e: £30,000), and Christie’s said the lot raised £40,000 for charity.

'Music empowers young people'

Andrew Lloyd Webber said, ‘I am absolutely delighted that the sale of my wine cellar has raised over a half a million pounds for my music in schools programme. To date over 30,000 children have taken part in the project and the sale means that 4,000 additional kids will be able to join.

‘The beneficial power of music education in schools has long proved to be a no-brainer. Quite simply, music empowers young people.

'From academic achievement to solving social behaviour and mental health issues, the benefits to the whole community, not just the young students, are demonstrably proven.'

The musical impresario behind hits such as Cats and Phantom of the Opera also criticised successive UK governments for their lack of support.

Adam Bilbey, senior vice president, and global head of wine and spirits at Christie’s, said, ‘This sale delivered exceptional results for a cellar of outstanding provenance. Collectors responded strongly to the rarity and historical significance of the wines, with sustained bidding throughout the online sale.

'We are particularly proud that the proceeds (full hammer total) will support The Music in Secondary Schools Trust and its transformative work in music education.’

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Welcome to Decanter's Bordeaux Guide 2026

Our Bordeaux Guide for 2026 brings you all the latest from one of the wine world's benchmark regions, and one in which deep-rooted tradition is brilliantly integrated with forward-looking dynamism.

Published alongside Decanter magazine's May 2026 issue, the guide also follows hot on the heels of our new en primeur report on the exciting Bordeaux 2025 vintage – featuring tasting notes on hundreds of wines.

A message from Bordeaux editor Georgie Hindle

Hello Bordeaux lovers, and welcome to this year’s guide! There’s nowhere quite like Bordeaux when it comes to pure wine joy.

It’s a region bursting with possibility – diverse, multi-generational and always ready to surprise you with something new, whether it’s a brilliant hidden-value gem or a legendary bottle that stops you in your tracks.

Every sip feels like an invitation to dive deeper, laugh louder and connect over glasses that tell stories.

This year brings a poignant yet uplifting reminder of how to embrace that joy fully, with the passing of two major figures of the industry, Michel Rolland and Daniel Cathiard.

Their legendary reverence for life, passion for great wine, good food, lively conversations with friends, travel and pure pleasure should stay with all of us.

So let’s open bottles, share them generously, debate passionately and let wine do what it does best: bring people together.

And bring people together it does. While headlines love to say we’re drinking and buying less, Bordeaux quietly proves otherwise. It remains one of the very best – if not the absolute best – regions on earth for sparking real excitement and enjoyment, with outstanding wines in every style and at every budget.

This is best emphasised by Marc Bouffard’s article covering his pick of 10 top-value estates among the 1855 Grands Crus Classés – yes, it is still possible to find bargains among these well-known names.

Panos Kakaviatos assesses all 14 third growths to see who is overdelivering on quality for price, and I take an intimate look at Château Batailley, a ‘pillar of value’ for Pauillac.

In our coverage of what turned out to be an extraordinary and very high-scoring panel tasting, you’ll also find a tranche of 35, no less, 95pt-plus Outstanding wines from the excellent 2020 vintage on Bordeaux’s Right Bank.

These include numerous at accessible prices as low as £20 per bottle in bond, and there are nearly 100 others rated at 90pts or more, with 54 wines in all being awarded our ‘Value’ status, for price and quality within this category.

Plus, in her ‘Expert’s choice’, Valeria Tenison sifts through the vast number of St-Emilion Grand Cru estates to pick 18 worth tracking down.

I hope you enjoy reading this guide as much as I loved putting it together – and that it inspires you to find some wonderful bottles to continue your Bordeaux journey.

What's inside Decanter's Bordeaux Guide 2026

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