Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, sits in the southern Aegean sea and forms a cultural and geographical bridge between Europe, Asia and Africa.

Its landscape ranges from rugged mountain ranges and high plateaus to fertile plains and a dramatically indented coastline, producing varied meso- and microclimates that suit a wide array of crops – grapes among them.

Wine has been integral to Cretan life for millennia, and the island’s vineyards, monasteries and ancient palaces testify to a continuous vinous tradition.

The history of winemaking on Crete reaches back to the Bronze Age. The Minoan palaces – built roughly 3,500 years ago at sites such as Knossos and Phaistos – contain remains interpreted as evidence of large-scale wine production and storage.

Byzantine churches and monasteries preserved viticultural knowledge during the medieval period, while Venetian rule during the 13th-17th centuries opened Cretan wines to wider Mediterranean trade.

In the 14th and 15th centuries, in particular, Venetian merchants helped spread the fame and demand for Cretan wines across Europe.

At the same time, the island’s relative geographical isolation fostered the development and preservation of local grape varieties found little elsewhere.

A deep well of varieties

Crete’s terroir is highly varied: a complex mix of limestone and schist soils; hot, dry summers tempered by sea breezes; and cooler mountain sites that maintain acidity and aromatic complexity.

Elevation – from coastal vineyards to those planted above 500m-800m – combined with the diverse soils, creates distinct expressions even over short distances.

This diversity underpins the island’s modern renaissance in quality winemaking. Some key indigenous grape varieties define Cretan wine.

Whites include Vidiano, increasingly celebrated for its citrus and stone fruit aromatics, and textured palate; Vilana, traditionally planted across the island and producing light, fresh wines.

Thrapsathiri, which shows great promise – I would love to see more examples from this variety.

Dafni, quintessentially Greek, herbal and aromatic like the Cretan shrubland and well suited to dry whites; and Plytó, rarer but capable of producing fine wines with a much more subtle character.

Among the reds, Kotsifali and Mandilaria (Mandilari) were for years the backbone of many blends. Kotsifali brings soft fruit and warmth, Mandilaria structure and tannin.

Liatiko, an ancient variety, yields spicy, medium-bodied reds and historically produced sweet wines.

Muscat of Spina and Malvasia di Candia, once Crete’s most popular ambassadors, are coming back to the fore, bringing a scented bouquet to both sweet and dry wines, while the rare red Romeiko, traditionally associated with the alcoholic, Sherry-like Marouvas wine, is another variety that deserves more attention.

Modern renaissance

Crete’s wine styles range from crisp, aromatic dry whites and fuller-bodied, textured whites to light- and medium-bodied reds and fruity rosés.

The sweet wines have a storied past – Venetians prized Cretan sweet and fortified styles; traces of those traditions survive in modern dessert and late harvest bottlings.

Increasingly, winemakers focus on single-varietal expressions, low-intervention techniques and vineyard-driven wines.

Crete

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Greece’s native grape varieties burst onto the wine scene in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Assyrtiko and Xinomavro, like Achilles and Hector, are the heroes that dominate this vinous drama, but the cast of characters is much longer.

From the foothills of Thessaly to the volcanic Aegean, Crete’s limestone slopes and the airy plateaus of the Peloponnese, it is estimated that there are currently around 200 significant native varieties, and there are dozens, possibly hundreds, more waiting to be identified across the country.

Scroll down for Jason’s pick of 12 wines made from indigenous Greek grapes

1. Malagousia

It began with Malagousia, which arrived at Domaine Porto Carras in Macedonia thanks to Professor Vassilis Logothetis of the University of Thessaloniki, who rescued and cultivated it as part of an experimental plot in the 1970s.

Evangelos Gerovassiliou, then winemaker at Carras, tasted it and realised it could be more than a blending variety. He propagated it and vinified it as a varietal wine at Carras before establishing his own eponymous winery, which is now famous for benchmark examples.

Peachy, spicy and herbal, Malagousia quickly spread across Greece, and today remains one of the top Greek varieties – excellent on its own, or blended with other varieties such as Assyrtiko, and aged in steel or oak.

Malagousia extended the horizons of winemaking. Suddenly, Greek winemakers were encouraged to look in their own vineyards, seeking the next indigenous hero, rather than planting Merlot or Chardonnay.

2. Moschofilero

Moschofilero, an aromatic speciality of the Mantinia plateau in the northern Peloponnese, was the next variety to emulate the success of Malagousia.

It is one of Greece’s most joyous grapes with its aromas of lemon zest and roses, and no one understands it better than Leonidas Nassiakos, the former winemaker at Semeli, who founded Novus Winery in 2020 to focus on Moschofilero.

‘Moschofilero changed the mindset of Greek consumers in the early 1990s by being the first wine to be ordered by the name of the variety,’ he recalls. ‘Until then, wines in Greece were white, rosé, red or retsina.’

3. Robola

Another promising variety is Robola, a speciality of Cephalonia in the western Ionian Islands, with a very different character to Moschofilero. Where the latter is perfumed, Robola is stony.

If there’s a delicacy to Moschofilero, there’s a muscularity to Robola. It remains one of the most promising native varieties for top-quality wine and is perhaps the closest Greece has to the understated drive and mineral grip of good Chablis.

4. Savatiano

Back in central Greece, vineyards are dominated by Savatiano. Once of Greece’s most planted white grapes for the production of cheap taverna wine and retsina, Savatiano has been tarred – or should we say resinated – by association.

It was also popular because it withstood colossal yields of around 250hl/ha. Under such conditions, it unsurprisingly gained a reputation for neutrality.

When not worked to exhaustion, it can impress. Producers like Papagiannakos, Akriotou and Mylonas in Attica have demonstrated its potential to make quality wines in a range of styles with character and ageing potential.

Stamatis Mylonas, an early believer whose Savatiano took home a DWWA Gold medal in 2014, is enthusiastic about the future.

‘Despite its enormous winemaking history, Savatiano is just starting to draw the attention of the wine world as the next big Greek variety,’ he says.

‘I believe there’s still much more to come, and I’m pleased to see more and more excellent wines being made.’

5. Agiorgitiko

Greece’s most planted red variety, the tongue-twisting Agiorgitiko (ah-yor-YEE-tee-ko), is far easier to enjoy than it is to say.

A speciality of high-altitude Nemea, a PDO designation in the Peloponnese to look out for, its vibrantly fruity profile, deep colour and velvety tannins make it a more immediately appealing red for most wine drinkers than the more austere Xinomavro from appellations like Naoussa in Macedonia.

In style, Nemea (Agiorgitiko) is to Naoussa (Xinomavro) what Bolgheri is to Barolo, or Bordeaux is to Burgundy.

Agiorgitiko comes in a range of styles, from early-drinking wines that can be chilled to more age-worthy and intense bottlings reminiscent of St Emilion or top Argentine Malbec.

Pioneers such as Papaioannou, Skouras and Gaia continue to push the boundaries of what this hugely promising variety can offer.

Limniona and Limnio

Then there’s Limniona, another variety with huge quality potential but much more limited plantings. Revived in 2000 by Zafeirakis and a flagship future red variety for Thessaly, it is hard to generalise about it because volumes are small, but the quality potential has been unquestionable.

The story continues on the islands. Limnio, not to be confused with Limniona, is an ancient grape and the oldest referenced variety in the world, having been mentioned by Aristotle and Hesiod (who called it ‘Lemnia’).

It comes from the island of Limnos, where producers like Lefteris Anagnostou of Ekho (ēkhô) are determined to bring it to wider attention, but today this variety occupies only 10% of the island’s vineyards and finds greater success in northern Greece.

On the island of Paros, Monemvasia (white) and Mandilaria (red) are reasserting their traditional status, where they are co-fermented to produce supple, spicy red wines with some of the silkiness of wines such as Emmanuel Reynaud’s Château Rayas and Château des Tours.

Stirrings on Crete

Then there’s Crete, Greece’s largest island and ideally suited to quality viticulture. Three local men, all called Nikos, have had a decisive influence on the swing towards native varieties here.

Nikos Douloufakis pioneered Vidiano, Crete’s most promising white grape. ‘Think of a Mediterranean white with the elegance of Viognier and the structure of Assyrtiko,’ he says.

‘It’s dry, full of peach and citrus fruit aromas, with a hint of salinity and a smooth, long finish.’ No one does it better.

Another Nikos – Karavitakis – is convinced that Kotsifali, a grape traditionally used only in blends, has the potential to make outstanding varietal wines.

‘When made well, it has a noble character often found in top-class wines,’ he says, comparing it to Burgundy and top Garnacha from Spain. ‘The whole region needs to understand the beauty and power of Kotsifali.’

Finally, Nikos Lyrarakis resurrected the almost extinct Dafni variety, which now forms the basis of one of Crete’s most distinctive single-vineyard wines.

The hard work to recuperate the indigenous heritage of Greece’s vineyards in the last 30 years continues to bear fruit.

‘We are very lucky to have so many native varieties across Greece,’ Lefteris Anagnostou says. ‘It’s a privilege to work with them. But there is still much work required to discover more of this heritage and to promote it.’

Not all of these varieties will match the impact of Assyrtiko or Xinomavro, but some may surpass them in time.

For those who’ve already discovered how good contemporary Greek wine can be, that’s an exciting thought – and a compelling reason to continue to explore its native heroes.

12 Indigenous Greek grapes to try

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Assyrtiko is in crisis. The popularity of this diamond-pure Greek white grape from the burnished pumice of Santorini, has risen as fast and bright as a meteorite in reverse.

But the disastrously meagre 2024 harvest described by Stellios Boutaris of Sigalas as barely ‘two buckets of grapes’, presents a shortage to burgeoning fans of this cheerleading local variety.

Thanks to above average temperatures and a lack of the night-time dew compounded by a third consecutive year of lower-than-average rainfall on Santorini, the dip in production is biting.

Scroll down for Olly’s pick of Greek white wines that aren’t Assyrtiko

Looking beyond the obvious

At this year’s Oenorama wine fair in Athens almost every winemaker spoke with enthusiasm for their passion for grapes beyond Assyrtiko.

For too long, they say, we’ve all been beguiled by the beauty of Assyrtiko and with hardly any stock around, even regular buyers of this star from Santorini are facing waiting lists and allocations.

Back from the brink

The first grape on everyone’s lips for something with widespread appeal is Malagousia.

Saved from extinction just a few short decades ago by Evangelos Gerovassiliou, Malagousia is a white grape that’s far more than just a scented crowd-pleaser.

Those new to wine loves its bright fruity appeal, Greece’s answer to Albariño, you might say.

While devoted connoisseurs, are gripped by its ability to thrill with the precision of a minerally matrix.

In its more serious iterations, I think of it as a steel nectarine glowing beneath a halo of frozen jasmine, such as the wine of Maria Dimitriadis who grows very fine Malagousia on the slopes of Mount Olympus under her Navitas label.

Attic contender

For volume to fill the gap left by Assyrtiko, the former workhorse grape behind retsina – Savatiano – has serious potential.

Rather like Chenin Blanc it’s capable of youthful vim as well as extended ageing and with lots of old vine heritage, quality across Attica in particular is abundant.

With producers like Papagiannakos producing beautiful single vineyard examples such as the Vientzi from vines more than 60 years old in limestone soil, this grape shows encouraging potential to produce wines of fruity delight balanced with textural richness.

An island duo

For blade-fresh wines with similar mineral-pure saltiness to Assyrtiko from Santorini, Thrapsathiri from Crete or Xynisteri from Cyprus are both interesting contenders.

Thrapsathiri has a subtle tropical edge with fresh herby spice to it.

Meanwhile, Xynisteri from Cyprus can deliver compelling citrus tension especially from the high-altitude vineyards of Cyprus such as Kyperounda, (some of which reach 1,400 metres, among the highest in Europe).

Sites such as these combined with the drought resistance and naturally fresh acidity of so many Greek white grape varieties offer great hope in the face of the climate emergency.

Heady charms

For white wines with bold character with scented freshness, the fragrant headiness of Moschofilero is already a hit on the UK high street in stores such as Marks & Spencer where their Found bottling is blended with lemony Roditis.

With rose petal and heady lemon blossom among its captivating aromatic charms, Moschofilero is about as enticing as summer white wines can get.

Yet in the hands of specialists Troupis in their ‘TOMH’ Mantinia 2023 (12.5%)’ it’s focused into a wine of etched definition with lime-scented stone fruit and irresistibly crisp élan.

Its near-relative Mavrofilero has even more citrus verve which is doubtless capable of luring fans of top-quality Sauvignon Blanc towards local Greek grapes.

Quincy allure

But in my view, the rarer Kydonitsa grape (meaning ‘little quince’) is a variety which manages to balance seriousness with delightfully discreet aromatic allure.

Kydonitsa has a sense of liveliness (as the name suggests, there is a certain similarity to quince), with a charming textural crunch and a restrained aromatic profile somewhere between chamomile and pear.

Another emerging star in the firmament of Greek white wine beyond Assyrtiko is Vidiano.

Vidiano is a grape that comes from Crete, thought to originate from the prefecture of Rethymno and tends towards peachiness lifted with herby freshness.

While it’s never the zippiest of all Greek grape varieties, I’ve yet to taste a soft example and from cooler vineyards the wines balance nicely between widespread appeal and mesmeric finesse.

Paired with fish, shellfish and light summer salads, it’s absolutely splendid.

Rare jewels

However, for the captivating pristine power of volcanic Assyrtiko, the answer lies in some of the seriously rare varieties that are tucked away on other sun-drenched islands.

The highly rare grape of Makripodia from Zakynthos is one to watch with a saline streak to appeal to Assyrtiko fans or the red grape Romeiko planted across Crete which produces moreish white wines with dynamic umami and sea-spray that are wonderful matched with mezze.

But the real hope for similar calibre to Assyrtiko is Potamisi.

Found in the Cyclades, the best examples have a similar mineral power to Assyrtiko with the tension and invigoration of grand cru Chablis.

For a white wine of impressive concentration that can be equally at home with a Greek salad, shellfish, sushi or a lemon roast chicken, Potamisi has the power to take the world by storm.

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Decanter’s expert writers and contributors awarded 95-points or more to almost 3,000 wines in the 12 months to October 2024.

While they have all appeared in the pages of Decanter magazine and online on Decanter Premium and in our decanter.com database, there were too many to reproduce here for a seasonal wrap-up.

So, in a somewhat unfair and very challenging task, we asked each of our Regional Editors to select just five wines from each of their key areas of expertise to highlight the bounty and diversity on offer across the world wine map.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the rest of the world Wines of the Year 2024

From Baden, the Bernhard Huber winery was behind two Outstanding Chardonnays (95 and 96-points) in our German whites beyond Riesling panel tasting (October 2024 issue), before scoring 98-points for its Schlossberg Chardonnay 2022 in the Grosses Gewächs 2024-release tasting on Decanter Premium (10 October 2024) – a true champion in the alternative German white category.

Weingut Keller of Rheinhessen, on the other hand, achieved a near-perfect score with its Morstein Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) 2022. This is undoubtedly a prime example from one of Germany’s finest red wine vintages.

As Caro Maurer MW put it: ‘It reminds me of a Gevrey-Chambertin – the wine is simply world-class.’

From the foothills of Mount Fuji in Japan, Grace Wine’s Misawa Vineyard Koshu was the top find of my first visit to the Yamanashi wine region. Its delicate nature and outstanding concentration are a testament to the quality potential of the nation’s signature white grape.

Back in England, Dermot Sugrue’s Zodo (zero-dosage) non-vintage sparkling, from the South Downs, is a brilliant showcase of English fizz at its peak – striking a fine balance between its signature acidic backbone and an elegant textural complexity, realised through expert vineyard and winery management.

Finally, Klearhos Kanellakis highlighted an exceptional vinsanto in his report on the best Assyrtiko wines from Greece.

Crafted by long-established family winery Argyros, using primarily Assyrtiko from 200-year-old vines rooted in volcanic soils on Santorini, this luscious yet balanced 2015 surely has many decades ahead of it.

Quick links:

See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Bordeaux & Burgundy | Champagne, Rhône and regional France | Italy | Spain & Portugal | The US | South America | Australia, New Zealand & South Africa

Wines of the Year 2024: Rest of the World

Wines are listed white then red, in score order

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Melania Battiston is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Melania Battiston

Melania Battiston comes from a small town in Lombardy, Italy. She is currently assistant food & beverage manager at the luxury hotel brand Aman Resort, where she has been working in Greece and Thailand. Previously in UK, she was head sommelier and wine buyer at Medlar restaurant in Chelsea, London.

Eight years ago, she moved to the UK to study Marketing at the University of Bath. After meeting Clement Robert at 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen, however, she decided to start a career in the wine industry instead.

Already an advanced sommelier at the Court of Master Sommelier at the age of 24, Melania’s aim is to become the first and youngest Italian female master sommelier, perhaps MW in the future. Moreover, she graduated in Coaching and Positive Psychology at the University of Cambridge. She runs her own consulting and coaching company for hospitality and brands, MelCnC.

Melania is a Champagne lover, an Italian wine aficionado, and she also has a sweet spot for Greece, New Zealand, and Austria.

Follow Melania on Instagram.

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Assyrtiko, a robust and versatile grape, has firmly established itself as a symbol of Greek viticulture and has recently become one of the most talked-about varieties in white wine, drawing comparisons to Hungary’s esteemed Furmint.

With its origins on the Aegean island of Santorini, the cultivation of Assyrtiko has spread across Greece, and the exciting wines that have resulted demonstrate the grape’s adaptability to different climates and terroirs.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 thrilling Greek Assyrtiko

Within Greece, the expression of Assyrtiko varies significantly between the mainland and its island of origin. Mainland vineyards typically produce a fruitier, less mineral-intense style than those found on Santorini.

It’s here that Assyrtiko finds its most pronounced expression, the island’s volcanic soils enriching the grape with a distinctive smoky minerality, salinity and depth.

The old, ungrafted vines found in the island’s vineyards are particularly noteworthy, typically trained in a characteristic basket-shaped system known as kouloura to protect them from harsh winds and intense sun.

Old vines, new ideas

On Santorini, innovative winemaking techniques are being used to enhance the natural qualities of Assyrtiko. Extended ageing on the lees adds richness and complexity, resulting in wines with greater body and a creamy texture.

The use of wild yeasts for fermentation introduces unique, indigenous flavours and aromas, further connecting the wines to their specific locale. Microvinification of selected parcels from centenarian vines allows winemakers to explore the full potential of these ancient vineyards, often producing exceptionally concentrated and characterful wines.

Additionally, some winemakers are experimenting with amphorae, which provide a distinctive oxidative environment that influences the wines’ texture and flavour.

Food pairing par excellence

Assyrtiko’s high acidity and robust structure give it exceptional ageability, with the potential to develop complex flavours over time. And this grape is not only confined to producing dry white wines but is also used to create sparkling, sweet and even orange wines, highlighting its wide-ranging potential.

That high acidity and the strong minerality also make Assyrtiko an excellent partner for a wide variety of dishes. Wines made from the grape pair splendidly with raw seafood, enhancing the delicate flavours of oysters and sushi, while their citrussy profile complements dishes such as steamed mussels with lemongrass.

Assyrtiko’s affinity for saffron-infused recipes, such as paella or rich stews, further demonstrates its versatility when it comes to food pairings.

More than just a grape, Assyrtiko is a reflection of Greece’s winemaking heritage and a symbol of its potential for future innovation. As it continues to gain international recognition, Assyrtiko represents not only the excellence of Greek wine but also the dynamic diversity of global white wine trends.

The finest of Greek Assyrtiko to seek out:

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After two weeks of judging in London, full results from Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 have been released, revealing a stellar performance from Greece – with a few surprises, too.

Since its inception, DWWA has consolidated its reputation as the largest and most influential wine competition in the world. Wine-watchers eagerly await the results of the awards each year because, as well as highlighting the best wines in the UK (and where to buy them), newsworthy stories and trends inevitably emerge.

This year, one of the most exciting stories is the ascendency of Greek wines. It isn’t going too far to say that, in 2024, Greece really is the word.

The results tally in, Greece laid claim to 296 medals, including two Platinums, 11 Golds and 111 Silvers. The really big story, though, is that a Greek retsina wine won a prestigious Best in Show, one of only 50 awarded this year, and making up just 0.28% of the 18,143 wines evaluated.

Scroll down to discover six top-scoring Greek wines from DWWA 2024

The Retsina revival

The Greece story notches up a gear when you consider that the competition’s ‘Top 50’ wine in question is produced with pine resin: Kechris Tear of the Pine Retsina 2022 (97 points).

DWWA Co-Chair Andrew Jefford said, ‘Eyebrows, we know, will be raised. What on earth is a retsina doing in the DWWA Best in Show selection?

‘In truth, eyebrows were raised every time this wine was tasted in the competition – because no one could quite believe that a resinated wine could be as subtle and as good as this. But subtle and good it is: pale gold in colour, with aromas that seem simply perfumed rather than dominated by resin.’

Retsina, made by adding small amounts of Aleppo pine resin to white (or sometimes rosé) wines during fermentation, has existed for thousands of years. The style most likely arose as a way sealing wine amphorae as they were transported around the Mediterranean. It gave the wine a piney, salty, tang – which people evidently developed a taste for, as the style survived for centuries longer than pure necessity dictated.

Yet, as a style retsina wasn’t often held in high regard, its resinous flavour believed to ‘mask’ poor quality wine. Now, a nascent retsina revival is calling time on that theory – as Tear of the Pine proves.

Jefford also pointed out that this is an unusual retsina. ‘Note that this is an oaked wine, and you’ll find as much soft oak and creamy lees on the nose as you will a resinous twang.’ Then there’s the choice of grape variety: 100 per cent Assyrtiko rather than the more usual Savatiano or Athiri.

Tear of the Pine was first released in 2005, after five years of experimentation. Winemaker Stelios Kechris explains how it’s made: ‘After pre-fermentation maceration and alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels of varying origins and types, selected fresh pine resin extracted from Pinos halepensis is added, followed by ageing for six to seven months on the lees. Finally, we bottle.’

It’s a style he describes as ‘a traditional product produced using innovative and modern practices’. He added, ‘Our aim is to showcase the unique qualities and characteristics of this wine style.’

‘The result,’ concludes Jefford, ‘is a triumph. We commend it to all open-minded readers.’

Assyrtiko rising

Retsina is not the only Greek success story. Wines made from the Assyrtiko grape – particularly those from the tiny, windswept island of Santorini from which this grape originates – won particular plaudits from judges.

Two standouts (Gavalas Winery, Natural Ferment, Santorini 2022 and Tselepos Canava Chrissou Vielles Vignes, Santorini 2021) claimed Platinum, both awarded 97 points.

Additionally, two Santorini wines from Estate Argyros – the lightly oaked Cuvée Evdemon 2020 and stainless-steel vinified Assyrtiko 2022 – were awarded Golds, with 96 and 95 points respectively.

On this Aegean island, grapevines are typically grown low to the ground in nest-like, basket-shaped koulouras, their roots thrusting deep into the volcanic soil in search of moisture during the long, dry summers.

Assyrtiko grown on the island is low-yielding, resulting in wines with concentration and intensity; a characteristic lick of briny-fresh salinity and razor-sharp acidity makes them as food friendly as they are vividly flavoured. It’s little wonder that Santorini Assyrtiko has gained such a following.

Victory is sweet: Vinsanto

Santorini-grown Assyrtiko goes beyond rapier-sharp, ultra-fresh styles.

The legendary dessert wine Vinsanto, lusciously sweet and concentrated, oak-aged and made in tiny amounts on the island, is the polar opposite. It is traditionally made from sun-dried grapes (at least 50% of which must be Assyrtiko) that are pressed, fermented, then aged in oak barrels for at least two years, eventually emerging with an intense sweetness that’s balanced by bracingly fresh acidity.

The Gold-medal winning (96 points) Artemis Karamolegos, Vinsanto, Santorini 2010 combines 85% old-vine Assyrtiko with 15% Aïdani. After ageing for a minimum of 90 months in French oak, its honeyed richness is underscored by hints of coffee and molasses.

These two tiny snapshots – retsina on the rise and the varied faces of Santorini Assyrtiko – are just small parts of the overall picture of what’s happening in Greece, but are emblematic of the increasingly confident winemaking mentality that is taking hold across the mainland and islands.

For wines that can truly surprise and excite in the glass, Greece really is the place to look.

Top-scoring Greek wines of DWWA 2024

Kechris, Tear of the Pine, Retsina 2022

97 Best in Show

Pale gold in colour, with aromas that seem simply perfumed rather than dominated by resin; note, too, that this is an oaked wine, and you’ll find as much soft oak and creamy lees on the nose as you will a resinous twang. On the palate, all those elements come irresistibly together, too. Another point to note is that the variety here is 100 per cent Assyrtico rather than the more usual Savatiano or Athiri, so the patient layering of oak, cream and pine comes atop a pure, upright and vividly acid-balanced wine which would be of no little interest in its own right. The result is a triumph. We commend it to all open-minded readers. Alcohol 13.5%

Gavalas Winery, Natural Ferment, Santorini 2022

97 Platinum

Staggeringly good wine: myriad aromas of orange blossom, lemon balm and stone fruit with evocative inflections of volcanic minerals and seaside salinity. Wonderfully crunchy with an oyster shell texture and vivid citrus acidity. Long and profound. Alc 14%

Tselepos, Canava Chrissou Vieilles Vignes, Santorini 2021

97 Platinum

A benchmark Assyrtiko exuding breath-taking aromas of fresh peach, pear and wild spring flowers which set the tone and intersperse nicely with the underscore of vibrant crushed stone minerals and spine-tingling bite of acidity. Magnificent! Alc 13.5%

Estate Argyros, Cuvée Evdemon, Santorini 2020

96 Gold

Gleaming with white peach, lemon posset and fresh lime blossom with a succulent salty mineral character and vibrant drive of citrus acidity which glides towards the finish line. Alc 15%

Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini 2022

95 Gold

An intoxicating frisson of sea breeze, preserved lemon and floral notes which pervade the linear texture and steely backbone of acidity. Glowing with vibrance and verve. Alc 14%

Artemis Karamolegos, Vinsanto, Santorini 2010

96 Gold

The epitome of concentration encompassing dark raisined fruit, candied mango, frankincense and milk chocolate with an engaging mineral freshness which unfolds towards the end. Absolutely stunning. Alc 10.8%

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It hasn’t always felt especially summery so far this year, but don’t let the cool, grey skies dampen your holiday mood.

This summer is certainly going to be an eventful one in Paris – and France as a whole – with the Olympics, so get ready for a slew of gastronomic happenings around town.

Summer is truly the season of pop-ups, and you’ll find some of the most lavish on the globe in the form of a Baccarat-themed lounge in Monte Carlo and mountaintop private dining in Switzerland.

Even if your plans don’t include island-hopping in Greece or villa stays in Mallorca or Ibiza, you’ll find plenty of other fabulous ways to fête summer – from rosé-filled terraces in London to one-night-only dining experiences at ranches and farms on both sides of the US.

Experience Lilly’s, the ‘world’s most lavish club’, at Formula 1 Races & Polo tournaments around the globe

Lilly’s Club is hosting a new series of pop-ups at top sporting events around the world this summer.

The first of these, held over four evenings at the Fairmont Monte Carlo, coincided with the Monaco Grand Prix.

Partnering with Baccarat in celebration of the artisan crystal creator’s 260th anniversary, artists including Peggy Gou and Travis Scott performed, while butlers served Champagne in crystal coupes.

Renowned bartender Andrey Bolshakov manned the track-view suite, shaking up bespoke, race-themed cocktails like ‘Drive to Survive’; a blend of Baccarat Woodford Reserve, Martini Rossi, Sichuan pepper texture, Campari and distilled Frankincense oil.

Keep an eye out for the lineup of exclusive events – from Formula 1 races to Polo tournaments and beyond – where Lilly’s will continue popping up across the globe for the rest of the year.

Party with Moët in Paris at a gastronomic summer series with Yannick Alléno

Popping up for the summer season, Moët in Paris by Allénos celebrates the splendour of the French savoir-fête, the ‘art of partying well’.

Apéritif (aka Champagne happy hour) starts promptly with a toast at 17:43, a nod to the year Moët & Chandon was founded.

Located within the Beaupassage pedestrian hideaway in Paris’s well-heeled 7th arrondissement, fashion designer and illustrator Charles de Vilmorin is behind the space’s whimsical design – which will run until the first day of harvest in Champagne.

Each week will feature a rotating roster of after-work Champagne tastings, sing-along live piano performances, DJ sets, and decadent weekend brunches.

Expect a seasonally influenced menu à la Michelin-starred chef and Moët & Chandon ambassador Yannick Alléno (think green curry with summer vegetables and sea bream in cherry leaf) paired alongside a selection of Champagne.

Step inside Maison Krug’s new Joseph Winery in Champagne

‘There has been a drop of Ambonnay in every Édition of Krug Grande Cuvée since the foundation of Maison Krug (in 1843),’ says sixth-generation Olivier Krug, which makes the Clos d’Ambonnay an ideal spot for a ‘new’ start.

A seven-year project – the same amount of time an Édition of Krug Grande Cuvée matures in the cellar – the new Joseph winery is what Krug cellar master Julie Cavil has dubbed the ‘Joseph 2.0’.

Spanning 9,500 square metres and comprising eight cellars (which will receive 250 new wines this year) and 330 individual tanks, Joseph is designed to blend harmoniously into the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay with copper-coloured roofs that match the neighbouring homes.

The millstone walls and redesigned garden feel as if the winery blends seamlessly into the vines, offering both natural light and panoramic views from each room.

‘We wanted to preserve the fundamentals we inherited from (founder) Joseph Krug and conduct necessary changes to adapt to our changing environment,’ Cavil told Decanter as we toured the new winery when it debuted in late April.

‘It’s said that when you taste while listening to music, it changes the taste of the wines. Here, we’re in the heart of the vineyard and can taste the wines while looking out at the vines – that creates an additional connection [to the wine].’

Sleep in a safari-style tent during the Field X Overnight event at McArthur Gulch, Colorado

The experiential farm-to-table pop-up known for its destination events held in vineyards and sea caves is launching a new concept during the Outstanding in the Field Summer Tour.

Join guest chef Adam Dulye, of Brewers Association, at Flying Diamond Ranch in Colorado’s McArthur Gulch, for a farm-to-table dinner party with pairings curated by family-owned Californian winery Gros Ventre Cellars.

Take a seat in a wildflower meadow for the farm meal on 20 and 21 July before spending the night in an off-grid, safari-style tent for two, each outfitted with custom furnishings, Earth-friendly natural linens, and skincare products.

After the meal, cosy up by the campfire with a late-night dessert, enjoy the nightcap bar and wake to a farm-fresh breakfast of seasonal fruits and local produce before setting off on a morning walk through the meadow.

Tickets for the dinner cost $385 and an overnight stay is $2,500: book here for 20 July and here for 21 July.

Indulge in rare Penfolds wines during a Collectors’ Experience tasting at Magill Estate in Adelaide

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the first release of Penfolds Bin 707, the benchmark for Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.

To fête the wine and 180 years of Penfolds, the winery has launched an exclusive tasting experience at the brand home, Magill Estate, in Adelaide, Australia.

Through the Collectors’ Experience, you’ll get a deep dive into wines like Penfolds Grange, Yattarna Chardonnay, and the ‘super blend’ 802.B Cabernet Shiraz, plus a bespoke tour of Magill Estate and a food and wine moment at the restaurant.

Tickets from $327.

Join Jancis Robinson MW & top sommelier Raimonds Tomsons for a wine and philosophy retreat in Greece

At Dexamenes, a former-winery in western Greece, the old wine tanks have been converted into design-forward suites. This idyllic seaside spot also plays host to a unique retreat dedicated to two of Greece’s great and lasting legacies.

Inspired by Ancient Greece’s wine-fuelled symposiums, each evening of the six-day Wine and Philosophy: A Euphoric Retreat for the Soul (which will run from 25-30 October) will include philosophy discussions led by Durham University Classics professor Edith Hall.

Guests can also take in the local culture and wine history of the Peloponnese on visits to wineries like Mercouri Estate and Brintzikis Estate before joining retreat leaders – renowned wine critic and author Jancis Robinson MW, and Best Sommelier of the World 2023 Raimonds Tomsons – for wine tasting and pairing workshops.

The retreat starts at $4,832 per person.

Dine at Hakuba, Cheval Blanc Paris’s omakase in collaboration with Michelin-starred chef Takuya Watanabe

Hokkaido-born chef Takuya Watanabe – founder of the first Michelin-starred omakase in Paris – has partnered with Cheval Blanc Paris’s head chef, Arnaud Donckele, and pastry chef Maxime Frédéric for cooking concept Hakuba.

‘Hakuba’, which means ‘white horse’ in Japanese, a nod to Cheval Blanc, is located on the ground floor of the Palace hotel.

Chefs flit between three counters – two in the main dining area, seating eight to nine people, and one tucked away for a private dining experience for six.

Japanese tradition is present in everything from culinary technique to the restaurant’s Japanese forest-inspired design.

This encompasses dark wood such as black walnut, warm tones, and a Tsukubai stone and bamboo fountain at the entrance providing the soothing sound of flowing water.

‘We want this table to be a total immersion into Japanese art and craftsmanship,’ explains Donckele, who has provided his expertise in sauces and adapted ingredients and textures to have a Japanese touch.

‘On the sushi, temaki, and gunkan (hand-shaped, oval sushi) side, Takuya Watanabe embodies rigour and authenticity – he has full creative freedom for remarkable creations with products such as fish, rice, Iio Jozo brewery vinegar and seaweed.’

Dinner omakase menu from $451.

Enjoy high-altitude Michelin cuisine during a mountaintop private dining moment at Hotel 7132 in Vals, Switzerland

After maintaining the second Michelin star at 7132 Silver Restaurant at the namesake Swiss hotel, chef Marcel Koolen is pushing the limits of high-altitude cuisine further than ever before.

Sourcing top-quality local and forest-foraged ingredients, he has created a private dining experience on a secret mountaintop location more than 6,500 feet above sea level.

Blending his passion for outdoor cooking with his appreciation of alpine products, Koolen will present a menu designed around Mother Nature with dishes paired alongside vintages of Champagne Louis Roederer’s Cristal.

Dubbed Beyond the Clouds, the three-night package is available from 1 July (rates start at $17,628) and includes a stay in the Kengo Kuma-designed Penthouse Suite, helicopter transfers within Switzerland, a glacier picnic and a 90-minute private thermal bath experience.

Sip Sir Ridley Scott’s Provençal wines at a summer terrace pop-up at The Laslett in Notting Hill

British filmmaker Sir Ridley Scott (of Gladiator, Blade Runner, House of Gucci) is bringing a taste of Provence to Notting Hill this summer, with a pop-up on the terrace of townhouse hotel The Laslett.

Taking over the sun-drenched Victorian-era terrace, London will get a taste of the Luberon winery, with a dedicated menu of Mas des Infermières’s wines, including the Perle du Mas sparkling rosé, which will make its UK debut.

Sit back and sip Source Blanc alongside smoked salmon and avocado for lunch or Source Rouge with a crispy duck burger or marinated chicken skewers for dinner and allow yourself to be transported to the French south.

Preview the latest Dom Pérignon vintages during a Francis Mallmann-paired meal in the Hamptons

Be among the first to sip Dom Pérignon Vintage 2015 and Plénitude 2 (P2) 2006 before their official release, at Dom Pérignon’s three-night event taking place 19-21 July at a private estate in the Hamptons.

Chef Francis Mallmann will pair cuisine to ‘explore the nuanced depths of these spectacular vintages,’ during the first in a series of chef-driven events that will unfold across the country in cities like New York and Chicago.

‘This experience with chef Mallmann allows us to create a space where we celebrate the balance found in opposing forces, inviting guests to savour the convergence of exceptional culinary and Champagne artistry while surrounded by the stunning ocean backdrop,’ says Dom Pérignon chef de cave Vincent Chaperon.

‘This Dom Pérignon encounter opens the door to a world of endless possibilities, brought to life through the rare prestige of our latest vintages.’

The experience (including roundtrip transportation) starts at $3,000; reservations available here.

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Titled Best Sommelier 2015 in Greece, Sommelier of the Year 2016 in the UK and representing Greece in the European Final in Vienna in 2017, Terry Kandylis is now the Group Head Sommelier at Noble Rot in London.

Growing up in Evia, Greece, Kandylis’ earliest encounters with wine were humble, centred around homemade wine that his family produced with purchased grapes. It wasn’t until his cousin, a sommelier, gave him a glass of quality Greek wine that his curiosity grew.

Working part-time in restaurants whilst studying Physics at the University of Athens, Kandylis experienced a pivotal moment when he served Pouilly-Fuissé instead of Pouilly-Fumé. ‘A classic rookie mistake’ he commented. Guided by his mentor, a restaurateur, he began learning more about different grape varieties, regions and wine styles.

Fast forward, Kandylis has worked at numerous fine-dining establishments including The Fat Duck, The Ledbury and private members club 67 Pall Mall before holding the position of Group Wine Director at Caprice Holdings Ltd.

Announced Regional Chair for Greece and Cyprus at Decanter World Wine Awards 2023, he will once again oversee the panel at the 2024 competition.

Ahead of judging this May – and with entries closing soon on 15th March – we get to know more about Kandylis, his proudest moments, thoughts on the future of Greek and Cypriot wines, as well as advice for producers.

Tell us about yourself. What does a typical day look like?

I’m now the Group Head Sommelier at Noble Rot and we have three sites. We’re a very wine centric group of restaurants. We started as a magazine which is still doing better and better every year and I love what the team is doing, their ethos and approach, and I think we’re very like-minded when it comes to the wines we like and the producers we admire.

My daily or weekly routine includes liaising with the Head Sommelier, all the sommeliers and tasks in each restaurant, being by their side, answering any questions they might have, guiding them and hopefully mentoring them in their steps. In a way, I want to transfer my experiences from the places I’ve been and the wines tied to them.

What is your proudest achievement so far?

I’m quite proud for 2020-2021 when I embarked on a winemaking journey. I bought some vineyards in Ribera del Duero and I started my own winemaking project.

I think the stories and the memories of my grandfather making his own wine, and of course, diving deeper into the world of wine and being able and lucky enough to meet producers and try some of the world’s best wines inspired me. Plus, hospitality was suffering in the middle of the pandemic and I really wanted to embark on this journey.

So one of my proudest achievements is resuscitating some extremely old bush vines. Some of them were abandoned or about to be grubbed up. I feel that making my own wine in Ribera del Duero captures my philosophy and my understanding about the wines of the world.

What is the most valuable lesson you’ve learned in the wine industry so far?

Staying humble. Wine is a fantastic beverage; I call it the social lubricant in the western world. I’m coming from Greece where it was always a vital part in the symposiums and meetings of people. The ancient sommeliers – ‘οenohoos’ as they used to call them – had even more power in their hands!

We’re not going to the moon. We need to stay humble. Wine can teach us so many lessons. When tasting a wine blind, one allows their senses to be part of a play where they’re trying to think about the origin of the wine, the variety or how it’s been made and, quite frequently, they might guess that wrong, so staying grounded I believe is important.

Which wine producing region or varieties would you encourage people to explore?

If speaking about my native Greek varieties, I would definitely say the grapes of Santorini, Robola from Kefalonia when it comes to whites and the amazing varieties in Crete. Then, definitely Xinomavro in terms of reds and Limiona.

Now, when it comes to the wines of the world, the regions that have always been inspiring to me are definitely Burgundy, Northern Rhône and Bordeaux. Now I’m making wine in Spain, so I love Tempranillo and the other local grapes. I love Garnacha, which for me is the Pinot Noir of the South. I actually adore Garnacha!

Finally, I think sommeliers need to try more classic Bordeaux because these wines can be great. They might have fallen out of fashion within the younger generation but I feel like a lot of things are changing and becoming again more relevant to the young consumers. Bordeaux wine, especially with age, is one of the finest wines in the world!

What’s exciting in the wine world right now?

I believe we’re currently in one of the most exciting eras. We now have the scientific medium to analyse old techniques and prove whether what we’re doing is right. We’ve learned from the mistakes of the past and from the systematic cultivations in the 60s and 70s. Now we have a much better understanding and appreciation of what the old farmers were doing, hence the direction towards biodiversity, sustainability but also regenerative viticulture are more relevant than ever.

We’re indeed facing a lot of problems like global warming, irregular climatic systems, floods, frosts, disease pressure that are unprecedented, but at the same time, I think it’s in our hands to reverse the situation. Starting from farming, it’s important that we create an ecosystem that is alive, strong and sustainable rather than just a monocultural organism that is fed by chemicals.

Why do you think people should try wines from Greece and Cyprus?

Greece, and now Cyprus, are coming very strongly into the play. Winemaking and viticulture in these countries is probably at least 4000 years old, so there’s a very long history. We can talk for hours about what the Greeks have contributed to the wine world, but the main thing that Greece and Cyprus now offer is amazing native varieties only to be found in these specific pockets of the world. Some of them are so rare that they can only be found in a small part of the country.

However, although we have a very long winemaking history, I would say that the modern history is quite short. The wine revolution started from the 80s onwards. Greeks and Cypriots are now discovering all these unique varieties they have in their hands and it takes years of experimentation to understand them better.

I think what Greece and Cyprus offer are unique and exciting wines, the majority of which are at very appealing prices and can please every wine consumer and connoisseur. Some of them are truly world class and I don’t just say that because I’m from there! On the contrary – I would say I’m probably the hardest judge when it comes to wines from my native country. Right now, we can certainly say that some producers are really crafting amazing wines from varieties that are purely indigenous and I think they have such unique qualities and personality.

For the restaurateurs, these wines offer amazing value for money, especially now that prices for Burgundy and some Italian wine regions have skyrocketed. Consumers can now find really good wines that don’t break the bank and Greece and Cyprus can offer this.

What’s your advice for DWWA entrants?

I think it’s important that the wines are true to their region and their terroir. I would say that many of the foreign consumers who buy a Cypriot or Greek wine will buy something that is quintessentially Cypriot or Greek, like a Xinisteri, a Maratheftiko, a Limiona, a Mavrodaphni.

When it comes to international blends, they still need to have typicity. Some varieties have adapted better than others. For example, I believe some of the Rhône varieties are performing great. What’s important though, is that the wines are true to their origin, have character and personality. I would say maybe think less of winemaking and more of variety and terroir typicity.

Where do you see the future of wines from Greece and Cyprus?

It’s important for these countries to become more extroverted. What helped the renaissance of Greek wine was actually the recession in the country. Back in 2008-2009 when the domestic market collapsed, the winemakers had to look abroad. Up until then, we were making wine for the Greeks, and now much more wine is getting exported.

There are already many pockets of Greeks abroad like in Munich, Chicago, New York or Australia that have helped in the early days, but now it should all be about education. Educating the sommeliers and the trade to understand the indigenous varieties. I think countries like Greece and Portugal have such a wide array of amazing native varieties that deserve to be explored. We’ve just started in a way! I’ve been lucky and privileged enough to see the growth of Greek wine in the UK.

When I came in London, very few people were keen to try Greek wine. It was still associated with the badly made Retsina. Now you see Retsinas on wine lists! Properly made Retsinas – one of the most ancient styles of wine – being served and admired by an international clientele.

That’s why I always say this is just the beginning. Everyone should keep working, from the farmers and the wine growers to people involved with exports. It’s important to bring people in the country and educate them. It’s a continuous effort which takes a lot of work.

It’s important to be established and in front of the eyes and, of course, on the palates of the wine connoisseurs as a quality-producing country. We don’t make much wine; we are more or less the same size as Austria, so focusing on quality is key.

There are very few wineries that have the capacity to produce wines for supermarkets. The restaurant trade and the wine bars is where the wines have better chances to succeed. It’s impossible to compete with the lower price points of Chile, Argentina, Australia.

What’s an interesting fact about wines from Greece or Cyprus?

When hosting masterclasses I always said that I snowboard in Greece, and people were surprised… but, in fact, Greece is the third most mountainous country in Europe.

Another amazing fact is that Cyprus is phylloxera free. The island is so isolated that phylloxera never made it there. Also, there are many amazing terroirs and some of them in high altitudes. Think of Troodos mountains in Cyprus where you can easily find a vineyard at 1000m.

Finally, everything about Santorini, from the volcanic islands in the southern part of the Aegean to the unique vine training systems that look like bird nests.

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That dream of giving it all up and making wine on a Greek island against a crystal-blue ocean backdrop could become a reality – although it’ll cost several million euros to make it happen at this stone-walled villa.

Named ‘Estrella’, this five-bedroom property on the island of Tinos overlooks the Aegean Sea and comes with a small vineyard and olive trees, as well as other ‘Mediterranean vegetation’. 

Listed at €3.5m (£3m), there is also a winemaking room ‘to produce your own wine from the property’s grapes’, said listing agent, the Greece division of Sotheby’s International Realty. 

The vineyard is planted to the Assyrtiko grape variety, which has gained greater international recognition in recent years for its ability to produce top white wines.

That might suit a wealthy buyer looking to create a ‘hobby’ wine project.

Others, however, may prefer to focus purely on the pleasures of an evening on the large terrace, glass of Assyrtiko in-hand as the sun sinks beneath the horizon.

Stone steps also lead from the garden directly down to Agios Romanos sandy beach.

Sotheby’s said the buyer of the property would be eligible for Greece’s golden visa programme, which essentially offers the prospect of a permanent residency permit via ownership of a property worth at least €250,000. 

This property value threshold doubles in some areas, such as on the better-known islands of Santorini and Mykonos, according to the agency.

Tinos lies within the Cyclades archipelago that also includes Mykonos to the south-east.

It is home to an interesting wine scene, including a project that involves international winemaking consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt.

Greece in general has been generating fresh excitement in the wine world of late. ‘The surging feeling of energy across the Greek wine scene is so potent right now,’ wrote wine expert and broadcaster Olly Smith in a recent column for Decanter magazine. 

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Situated between 32 ̊ and 42 ̊ north, Greek vineyards are some of the world’s hottest. While this might suggest a preference for growing black grapes, red wine only accounts for one third of Greek output. According to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), overall production in 2022 was one of the lowest recorded in decades (down 14% from 2021, to 2.1 million hectolitres), though white wine still has the majority share, accounting for around 60% of volume.

The wide variety of microclimates throughout the mountainous country – ranging from high altitudes to coastal and island vineyards that cool and extend the growing season – create the perfect conditions to produce Greece’s famous zesty, energetic, mineral-driven white wines along with approachable, fruity and floral thirst-quenchers.

Greek whites: Where to find them

Some of Greece’s white wine highlights can be found in regions including Macedonia, the Peloponnese and Santorini.

Moving north to south, the mountainous region of Macedonia covers the largest part of northern Greece and contains two leading PDOs, Naoussa and Amynteo. At their high altitudes (some exceeding 700m above sea level) grapes ripen more slowly in these cooler terroirs, developing more interesting flavours as a result.

While they are both exclusively red wine PDOs, there are exceptional white wines to be found in Florina and Drama in Macedonia from Malagousia and Assyrtiko grapes.

The upside down hand-shaped peninsula in the south is the Peloponnese. With the largest vineyard plantings in Greece, the Peloponnese is responsible for around 30% of the nation’s wine, producing every style from sparkling to fortified.

Nemea and Mantinia are especially prestigious PDOs of this region, both reaching high altitudes of 800m – edging towards the Aegean sea – and producing exceptional wines. While Nemea is a PDO for reds, Mantinia is a PDO for white wines, where the pink-skinned Moschofilero must legally make up at least 85% of the blend for the dry white wines.

Roditis is commonly found here too, where it can appear as a modest (if somewhat bland) white wine, but is increasingly used for more modern and complex wines, too.

Island viticulture in Greece dates back to antiquity, and it is these regions where strong, onshore winds – especially on the Cyclades islands, such as Santorini – result in the famous mineral-driven, saline and acidic white wines.

Relentless Aegean gales and merciless droughts provide challenging viticultural conditions for growers. Yet they persist in working their basket-trained vines with pride, some of which date back 200 years on their original roots where the volcanic soils are phylloxera free. All this results in extremely low yields (due to a combination of very old vines and very difficult conditions), yet demand continues to grow, in turn pushing up prices for Greek island wines.

The white varieties

Around 300 indigenous grape varieties constitute 90% of plantings. Sure, many of them are unpronounceable to the average wine consumer, adding a significant challenge in marketing the wines internationally. But the adventurous drinker will delight in bypassing the Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio in favour of any one of these Greek wonders.

The best-known Greek white wines are undoubtedly Retsina and Assyrtiko. Retsina is famous for historical reasons and has an unarguably chequered reputation, long associated with inferior wine often made from a blend of grapes and masked by pine resin flavours. Traditionally Savatiano (along with Roditis) is the main grape in Retsina wines. Widely planted for its high yields and drought resistance, Savatiano has been a natural choice for producers churning out cheap and simple white wines over the past decades. However, winemakers like Papagiannakos Winery and Muses Estate are seeking out older vines with lowered yields to produce high-quality contemporary wines.

Assyrtiko is Greece’s best success story. Originally from Santorini, now internationally acclaimed, Assyrtiko is widely planted on mainland Greece as it has proven to be drought resistant while retaining freshness when ripe. The flavour concentration intensifies with older vines, and this, coupled with the razor-sharp acidity gives the wines spectacular power and ageability. Assyrtiko is also used to produce sweet wines, such as Vinsanto from Santorini.

Lovers of Viognier or Muscat will feel at home with Moschofilero. This aromatic variety serves up fragrant floral, citrus and spice notes. Usually a lighter body style, with medium alcohol and best enjoyed fresh. Its pink skin means it can also appear as rosé wine with extended skin contact, and even give a blush hue to white wines.

Malagousia went from unfashionable to high profile in recent decades with plantings now popping up all over Greece. Its softer acidity has inspired savvy winemakers to blend it with Assyrtiko, while others bottle it as a single varietal embracing its pronounced nectarine, honeysuckle and rose petal profile. High altitudes, cooler sites, or early picked grapes show a green herbal edge, not unlike Sauvignon Blanc; Alpha Estate Malagouzia, Single Vineyard ‘Turtles’, grown at over 600m above sea level is a perfect example of this racier style.

Though it’s the indigenous grapes of Greece that are most interesting to discover, international varieties such as Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc are ever prevalent. The best examples are when they have been blended with local varieties such as Cavino’s Mega Spileo Cuvée III White blend of Assyrtiko, Malagousia and Chardonnay.

These exciting exotic grapes, varied terroirs, and soaring quality levels are why consumers will not be bored spending their summer exploring Greek wine gems.

Greek white wines to drink this summer

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If it were possible to give an entire country an award, our Rising Star would in all likelihood be named as Greece. The country’s winemaking has made enormous strides, and it is now producing truly world-class wines. Much credit for its increased profile on the global stage should go to one person, though, who is the very worthy winner of this year’s Rising Star award.

Apostolos Thymiopoulos, based in Naoussa in Macedonia, northern Greece, is far more than a fabulously talented winemaker. He has become the ambassador for Greece’s new wines and winemakers, taking Greece beyond the southern Mediterranean and establishing it on international markets. Further, he has done this through his transformation of Xinomavro, a red grape likely unfamiliar to most, and seen as overwhelmingly tannic by many of those who have come across it. Thymiopoulos has propelled the hitherto relatively obscure region of Naoussa and its formerly unloved grape variety to success in global markets; it’s an exceptional achievement.

Thymiopoulos was the first in his family to bottle the wine from their grapes. He had worked in the vineyards from an early age. ‘I always wanted to work on the family farm,’ he recalls. ‘As a teenager I was fascinated by wine and wondered why we always sold our grapes on. At high school I discovered that I could study winemaking at Athens University, and that way I’d be equipped to make wines.’ His long-term UK importer, Mary Pateras of Eclectic Wines, says: ‘There was no plan B – it was oenology or nothing.’

After university, Thymiopoulos opened a wine shop in Thessaloniki. The access this gave him to fine wines from elsewhere in Greece and beyond, and to understanding consumer demand, was to be a key influence. But after his father and brother died in quick succession, he closed the shop to work full-time in the family winery.

From small beginnings

Earth and Sky had been his first release in 2005 (vintage 2003). ‘In 2008,’ recalls Pateras, ‘we were importing the wines of Haridimos Hatzidakis, from Santorini, and he suggested we go and see Apostolos. We met, shook hands, and our first order was 20 dozen. He told us that he was happy to start small, he just wanted a presence in the UK.’ Today he sells ‘pallets and pallets’, but it illustrates his determination to develop international markets from the beginning.

The wine shop was a key influence, and so too was Hatzidakis. He died far too young in 2017, aged just 50, but he had been Greece’s most influential winemaker – an inspiration to a generation of terroir-focused winemakers. The pair were firm friends. Together they would holiday in France and Italy along with their importer, visiting biodynamic producers, eating and drinking well, and picking up new ideas.

Thymiopoulos, as Hatzidakis did, farms biodynamically. He also follows the non-interventionist agricultural practices of the late Japanese thinker Masanobu Fukuoka. It may be

that Thymiopoulos studied winemaking, but his inspiration is the soil. His life is mostly spent in the car, travelling between vineyards. Visitors will always catch up with him in a car. My last rendezvous with him was at a roundabout…

Thymiopoulos’ restless energy is in contrast to the elegance of his wines. Ben Greene, of UK merchant Wine & Greene, says: ‘His signature is harmony, a fine balance, and tannin management.’ He adds: ‘He’s a lovely guy.’ Charlie Young of London wine bar group Vinoteca remembers meeting Thymiopoulos in Greece about six years ago. ‘There was energy and excitement about him,’ he recalls. ‘The wines we tried were knockout. His wines are an easy sell because people always love them. We pitch the Xinomavro like many others do – somewhere between Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir – yet it’s very much its own thing.’

Looking ahead

What lies ahead for our 2022 Decanter Rising Star? He has expanded his winery and populated it with concrete eggs and amphorae, as well as his preferred larger-size oak. Rosés have entered his repertoire: ‘I felt a good rosé has great potential to be a gastronomic wine, and not just a marketing product to save money. Domaine Tempier from Bandol is my favourite, and the Viña Tondonia Rioja rosado inspires me to be brave and daring.’

Matthew Horsley, wine buyer at The Wine Society, talks of his ‘now legendary rosés, which have wowed people again and again’, describing Thymiopoulos’ wines as being ‘of impeccable elegance and authenticity’. They are ‘not just up there with the finest wines in Greece’, Horsley says, ‘but can stand proudly among the finest wines in the world’. Thymiopoulos will continue to build on the success of the late-release rosé Xinomavro with a forthcoming late-release white. He’s also considering a blanc de noirs sparkling.

‘It should be said that Apostolos Thymiopoulos isn’t just a great winemaker, he’s also a great person,’ Horsley sums up. ‘Incredibly kind, impossibly generous and tireless in his pursuit of excellence. Simply put, he’s a joy to work with.’

Apostolos Thymiopoulos: Five winemakers and what they taught me

‘When I opened my shop in Thessaloniki, I had no real knowledge of the world of wine, and everything was exciting, a discovery,’ says Apostolos Thymiopoulos. ‘When customers bought wines, I would always ask them what had influenced their choice, in order to get first-hand experience of the market. Today, when I’m with friends and family they always ask me to choose. Normally I’ll select organic wines for their purity and the way they reflect the winemaker’s expertise. I have winemaker friends all over the world. The five I name below have taught me so much, whether with a specific wine, or for their overall philosophy.’

Christophe Roumier, Burgundy:

‘I discovered Christophe’s Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses during a memorable tasting at the winery some years ago. He made me understand how important it is to make good use of the barrels to get the very best of a terroir that gives different fruit character every year, depending on the weather conditions.’

Jacques Selosse, Champagne:

‘From Jacques, I learned patience – a value that I appreciate in each of his wines.’

Jean-François Ganevat, Jura:

‘This estate’s wines encouraged me to push my own limits and, above all, never to stop experimenting.’

Domaine Gramenon, Rhône:

‘At Philippe Pinoteau’s restaurant Le Baratin in Paris, I discovered La Mémé, Côtes du Rhône rouge, which taught me to respect the fruit during winemaking and to express this

in the wines I produce.’

Haridimos Hatzidakis, Santorini:

‘Haridimos taught me how to extract freshness from fire – that is, how to produce wines with freshness and finesse from a hot volcanic terroir.’

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A self-taught winemaker and one of the world’s most sought-after consultants, Stéphane Derenoncourt has built his reputation by shaping the wines of more than 140 clients in Bordeaux, the Rhône and Loire, as well as Spain, Italy, Greece, Austria, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey and the US. With his wife Christine, he runs Derenoncourt Consultants and owns Domaine de l’A in Côtes de Castillon and Derenoncourt California in Napa.

You arrived in Bordeaux aged 18, by hitchhiking – that’s pretty unusual…

I grew up in northern France and I decided very early on to change my life. I had no idea what I wanted to do but the job centre said I could go to Bordeaux to pick grapes, so I thought ‘why not?’ – I sold everything I had, went to start the harvest, and ended up staying.

How did you find your first job?

I didn’t have a diploma, so my only option was to work in the vineyards. Then a government initiative to find young people work by reducing the tax employers had to pay gave me a chance. Paul Barre in Fronsac became my first real boss. My first experience of winemaking, in 1985, was a revelation.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

I have travelled a lot but I’m always excited to see different projects and experience new cultures. Also, I love blending because it’s full of creativity.

Is there one project that stands out?

For the moment my love story is in Greece on the island of Tinos, where I make the wines for Clos Stegasta. It’s a strange and special place for me, full of energy, and I love to be there. Every vintage is a challenge, because of the wind conditions and lack of water – every grape you harvest is like a victory!

Any mistakes or regrets?

Maybe my first foray into winemaking in Spain, in 2003. I wasn’t happy with the results – I felt I had made something close to Bordeaux in Spain which was ridiculous. That’s why now, I always try to understand more about a place, its culture, its gastronomy. I had to become a bit Spanish before making the wine.

What challenges do you face?

Climate change. We need to first adapt the management of the soil and the canopy of the vineyard before we think about new varieties. In Bordeaux, for example, they now allow grapes from Portugal – for me it’s a mistake, as we will lose centuries of tradition.

What is the most common misconception about your job?

People think that I only work in the cellar, whereas I am almost always in the vineyard. Like with a chef, I need to know the products I have to work with. Winemaking is easy; what’s difficult is picking very good grapes with good ripeness, density, acidity and balance.

What wines do you like to drink?

I love wines coming from limestone, so those from St-Emilion, from Burgundy and from Barolo. Limestone gives you flowers, spice, elegance – a little more femininity. I love it.

What would you choose to drink today?

A Right Bank Bordeaux wine from 1998, my favourite vintage of the last century. It was a perfect year – very ripe and fresh, and great for the long term.

What advice would you give someone who wants to follow in your footsteps?

Have passion, a sense of observation, and be ready to work hard. I wake up every morning raring to go because I have the passion. Being a consultant is a special job – you have to be strong but also sensitive, to listen to your clients, and a project manager. But first is the passion and also, maybe, in French we say audace – to have a daring spirit.

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As the white wine harvest comes to a close in Greece, winemakers have had to sweat not only from the heatwaves but also from stressful selections and low yields due to uneven ripening.

After a more regular harvest in 2020, growers this year on Santorini, famous for Assyrtiko, reported no rain since April, with record breaking heat.

‘The last such heatwave was in 1987,’ says Elina Dakanali of Estate Argyros. With ambient temperatures reaching the mid-40s, yields were down ‘almost half’ compared to a normal year. ‘We saw how the heat blocked development and even burned some grapes,’ adds Dakanali.

Grape sorting

Careful grape sorting proved essential given irregular ripening. ‘The imbalance and unevenness of ripening was noticed, not only in the same vineyard, but also in single bunches,’ says oenologist Nikos Varvarigos of the island cooperative Santo Wines.

The lack of summer wind, which normally buffers heat, accentuated high temperatures in late July and into August, with nights not cooling down enough. Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, founder of Gaia Wines, reports that yields are down 40% from average.

After careful sorting, Paraskevopoulos says that vigilant winemaking is required this year. ‘We saw grapes either burned, over-ripe or under-ripe, some quite thick skinned without much juice, so we need to be careful with fermentations,’ he says.

Decanter contributor and wine judge Yiannis Karakasis MW, who this year published the book The Wines of Santorini, has dubbed 2021 the ‘year of the oenologist’ because of the demanding work needed for selection and winemaking. ‘We see lower than usual acidities and higher pH readings,’ he says.

Realistic pricing

A silver lining is that growers did not raise grape prices this year as they have done almost annually, which has made Santorini wines relatively expensive. ‘I think they [growers] finally understood the need to be realistic,’ says Paraskevopoulos, as prices per kilo settled at around €3.50. Varvarigos of the Santo Wines cooperative stressed that prices should not exceed that price because overall grape quality was ‘not good’.

As fires continue on the Greek island of Evia, where according to recent news reports over 2,000 people have been evacuated, winemakers throughout Greece also fear the on-going effect of climate change. As well as the summer heat many island vineyards suffered from May hail, which reduced volumes.

In Argolida on the Peloponnese mainland winemaker George Skouras says 2021 has been a tough year, starting with spring frosts in addition to extreme summer heat. ‘We have had almost nothing,’ he says of his vineyards of Chardonnay and Viognier. ‘Many vines stopped maturation due to heat stress.’

Red harvest looks promising

2021 may prove more promising for red grapes, however. In Nemea, for example, Skouras believes it could be a great vintage for Agiorgitiko where the ‘small and thin-skinned grapes have lots of colour and concentration.’

The red wine harvest is expected to begin in early September.

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Despite a warm climate, Greece is able to produce fresh, expressive white wines, in part, by taking advantage of cooling influences from the sea (as in Santorini), or exploiting cool microclimates inland. Platinum medal winner Ktima Biblia Chora typifies this, having found the perfect spot for an organic vineyard on the slopes of Mount Pangeon in Macedonia.

Premium: Discover Greece’s flagship grapes

Scroll down to view Greece’s top-scoring dry white wines

This ability to retain freshness and precision was evident at the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards, where mouth-watering acidity, minerality and a very long finish are recurring descriptors for Greece’s top-scoring white wines. While the Assyrtiko grape largely dominates the list, blends with indigenous varieties including Malagousia and Kydonitsa, varietal Vidiano and Viognier also grabbed the judges’ attention.

The Best in Show

Estate Argyros, Cuvée Evdemon, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

£42.28 Lay & Wheeler

The 2020 edition of our competition was great for wines from some of Europe’s key locations, one of which was Santorini: our judges spent a long time tussling over an outstanding range of Gold and Platinum winners from this extraordinary island. In the end, this grand and now mature wine was the one that triumphed. Of course, it showcases the pungent aromas and intense lemony flavours of the Assyrtiko variety, but in its faintly salty flavours and the striking balance between freshness and what can only be described as a succulent, almost oily ‘mineral’ richness, it takes the island’s winemaking to new heights. Alcohol 14%

Santorini sits on an active volcano, with extremely young and infertile soils, with almost no potassium or clay. ‘This last characteristic makes Santorini not just phylloxera-free but phylloxera-immune, meaning that the bug will never invade the island,’ says Matthew Argyros, owner of Estate Argyros. ‘Cuvée Evdemon is flirting with the boundaries of our understanding of the Santorini environment,’ he says. The grapes come from an Assyrtiko vineyard that is at least 150 years old, is farmed biodynamically and delivers extremely low yields. The wine, aged for about 30 months in stainless steel, with one quarter of the blend spending 12 months in French oak barriques, ‘focuses on palate structure’, Argyros explains. ‘It needs several years in the bottle to open up and will reward cellaring for up to 15 years.’

Santorini

Estate Argyros, Cuvée Monsignori 2018

Platinum, 97 points

£37.95 Philgas & Swiggot

Expressive wild rose, melon and floral aromatics. Lovely balance of citrussy flavours, delivering very well now with oregano and green tea nuances. Amazing precision and length. Alc 14%

Volcanic Slopes Vineyards, Pure 2017

Platinum, 97 points

POA Clark Foyster

Expressive nose displaying intense volcanic minerality, lemon balm and sea breeze. Fresh, juicy and steely palate with precise fresh lemon, salty minerality and wonderful texture. Alc 14%

Gavalas 2019

Gold, 96 points

£30-£31.49 Borders Wines, Corelli Wine, Kudos Wines

Honeysuckle and green apple bouquet. Showcasing place and variety brilliantly, this is mineral on the palate with crisp acidity, nice purity, focus and a touch of stone fruit. Shellfish please. Alc 13.5%

Venetsanos 2018

Gold, 96 points

£34.50 Cava Spiliadis

Gorgeous preserved lemon, lemon balm and sea breeze bouquet. The palate has tension and salinity, positively quivering with freshness. Layered and complex with a long finish. Alc 13%

Boutari, Assyrtiko 2019

Gold, 95 points

£16.99 Aspris & Son

Refined floral, pear and peach bouquet. Crisp and clean palate with wonderful purity, salinity, freshness and brisk acidity. The long, mouthwatering finish leaves the mouth squeaky clean. Alc 13%

Santo Wines, Nykteri 2018

Gold, 95 points

£23.50 Maltby & Greek

Gorgeous lemon balm, beeswax and seaweed bouquet. Concentrated and complex in the mouth with laser-like acidity cutting through the creamy, textured mid-palate. Alc 14%

Artemis Karamolegos, Pyritis Mega Cuvée 2018

Silver, 94 points

£49 Amathus Drinks

Delicately floral with grapefruit rind, seaweed and beeswax nuances. Precise on the palate with mouthwatering acidity and plenty of citrus fruit. Alc 14.3%

Gavalas, Natural Ferment 2019

Silver, 94 points

£34 Corelli Wine, Kudos Wines

Volcanic and flinty nose. It’s juicy and fresh in the mouth with citrussy acidity and a mid-palate that’s creamy and leesy. This wine has a gorgeous chalky texture. Alc 13.5%

Tselepos-Canava Chrissou, Nykteri 2018

Silver, 94 points

N/A UK www.tselepos.gr

Smoky, lemon balm and cardamom scents. Juicy palate with brisk acidity, a core of kumquat, lemons and a very long finish. Alc 14.5%

Venetsanos, Nykteri 2018

Silver, 94 points

£39 Cava Spiliadis

Lemon, apricot kernel and Mirabelle plum nose. Concentrated and linear on the palate with very precise, mouthpuckering acidity and fantastic chalky texture. A herbal finish. Alc 14%

Macedonia

Ktima Biblia Chora, Ovilos, Pangeon 2019

Platinum, 97 points

£25.95-£31.40 Available at independent merchants via Hallgarten Wines

Expressive beeswax and lemon blossom. Complex palate of citrus fruits, mango and kumquat. Will get even better. Alc 13.5%

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi 2019

Gold, 96 points

£16-£17.49 Available at independent merchants via Hallgarten Wines

The nose shows smoky minerality and floral, spicy and lemon blossom notes. Crisp palate with a fantastic salty tang and creamy texture. Alc 13.5%

Ktima Dyo Ipsi, Dialogos Kydonitsa-Assyrtiko, Peloponnese 2019

Gold, 96 points

N/A UK www.bibliachora.gr

Beautiful, breezy citrus blossom and quince bouquet. Sappy fruit on the palate, with a savoury salty edge, followed by a lemon peel finish. Alc 14%

Oenops, Vidiano, Crete 2018

Gold, 96 points

POA Clark Foyster

Focused and distinguished roasted nut, peach, honey and vanilla scents. Exuberant, fleshy fruit in the mouth, finishing long. A textbook expression, very classy indeed. Alc 13%

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Viognier, Epanomi 2018

Gold, 95 points

£17-£22 Available at independent merchants via Hallgarten Wines

Alluring honeysuckle, peach and nutmeg bouquet. The palate is round and rich but the ripe peach and spiced pear fruit is balanced by refreshing acidity. Alc 14%

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Decanter World Wine Awards home

Results for the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 will be announced on Decanter.com this 7 July

Lockdown has produced few benefits for businesses apart from those that can be conducted by Zoom or ordered online but it has been a nightmare for the winemakers of Santorini.

Because they are expensive to produce, Santorini’s mineral-rich wines are primarily exported for restaurant lists in Europe and the US.

In 2020 those exports plummeted by 80%, reflecting a particularly tough period for the hospitality trade in general amid the Covid crisis.

Santorini is a semi-desert island and its grapes are wound into kouloura (baskets) on the ground for protection from the elements. With mechanised harvesting of kouloura impossible, picking the grapes is both back-breaking and expensive.

So you will find comparatively few Santorini wines in supermarkets – even on Santorini.

Most bottles are bought by restaurants in Greece and the wider world, where a high price is factored in. But most restaurants have hardly been open in 2020 and so almost no one has been buying.

Venetsanos, a winery perched dramatically on a cliff above Santorini’s main harbour, has seen its sales collapse to 4% of what they were in 2019, from 14,208 bottles exported per year down to a mere 558 in 2020.

Petros Vamvakousis, manager of Venetsanos, said, ‘This is a total disaster and it has happened to all wine makers on the island.’

There is an acute irony here. Up until 2020, Santorini’s wine industry had a very different problem: not enough vineyards to meet demand.

Winemakers had just begun replanting the nearby island of Thirasia (part of Santorini until the great eruption of 1650 BC), which counts as Santorini PDO terroir so that levels of production could be increased to meet demand. Now the wine industry on Santorini has the opposite problem: overproduction.

Gaia, a mainland company which also operates an idyllic beachside winery on Santorini, registered a 56% drop in island exports between 2019 and 2020.

Co-founder Yiannis Paraskevopoulos is well-placed to see how the cost of harvesting by hand has been a big factor in driving Santorini wine into restaurants, because Gaia’s winery on the mainland in Nemea grows grapes on trellises rather than kouloura.

‘If we focus on the 2019 prices, the price of harvesting Santorini Assyrtiko was close to €5 per kilo whereas our Nemea Agiorgitiko was roughly 10 times less, 50 cents per kilo,’ he said. ‘Even the most expensive wine grapes on the mainland never exceeded €1 per kilo.’

Failure to sell to the many closed restaurants in Europe and America means that Santorini’s wineries are approaching the 2021 harvest with unusually high stocks left over from the 2020 harvest.

‘And given a relatively high yield on the island these days, grape prices are expected to plunge dramatically,’ said Paraskevopoulos.

‘This may have a very negative impact on old or small vine-growers. They may even abandon their vines, since they will consider that it is not economically sustainable carrying on. A very grim perspective.’

Ironically, wine production on Santorini was deliberately encouraged by Athens and the EU in the 1990s as an alternative to fall back on if lucrative tourism ever failed.

Tourism on Santorini has been its main source of income for decades and it was hoped that promoting Santorini’s vineyards would make sure the island didn’t plough up every field for hotels. So a highly successful wine industry was developed – only for both this and tourism to be laid low by the worldwide lockdown of 2020.

The Wine Museum, an ancient venture by the Koutsoyannopoulos family, saw 70% fewer visitors than normal during lockdown.

Glass half full: Reasons for optimism

Not everything is gloom. Yannis Valambous, who set up the chic Vassaltis Vineyard in 2015, said 2020 has been a strange year for everyone on Santorini.

‘With restaurants closed for the best part of the year and tourism drastically reduced, our main markets have all but disappeared, but that is not say that everything has been bad.

‘For one thing, we were able to give our few visitors in 2020 a more unique experience. The staff at Vassaltis felt that those who made the trip to our winery were more genuinely interested in wine, unlike the large coach parties that used to be off-loaded from cruise ships,’ he said.

‘Secondly, the whole industry on Santorini has been able to get a breather, to catch up with a demand that has skyrocketed over the past decade. We were able to replenish our stocks and create better wines by using the luxury of time, something we didn’t have during the past years.’

Markos Kafouros, president of the Santo Wines Cooperative, added. ‘Yes sales have dropped dramatically. There is uncertainty about the future, but optimism too that vaccinations will shield us from the virus and help the market to recover.

‘Santo Wines works with 100 smaller producers on the island. Because of last year’s excellent harvest and because of lockdown our stock of wines is unusually high. Fortunately, Santorini wines age very well. The critical point now is how soon we will be able to return to “normality”.’

Santorini has endured many disasters. It was formed by a cataclysmic volcanic eruption that blew the island into picturesque pieces in Neolithic times. In the 1950s its industries were devastated by earthquakes so it turned to tourism and became the defining image of the Greek tourist board.

Now its wine industry is under threat from a year of lockdowns but it’s likely to survive. Santorini always does.

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The current travel restrictions mean that many of us will be pining for Greece this summer. Happily, more and more of its most exciting wines are finding their way into export markets, meaning that even if we can’t be there in person, we can explore and enjoy its native grapes in our own homes.

Of the myriad grape varieties that are grown in Greece, we will focus here on five: Malagousia, Moschofilero and Assyrtiko for white; and, in reds, Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko. Plus a quick look at Muscat of Samos (not an indigenous grape variety but a famous Greek wine style). The best expressions of these grapes are not always cheap, but the wines are invariably food friendly, and display an unmistakable sense of place. No identikit and inspid wines in the selection below!

Klearhos Kanellakis, head sommelier at Trivet in London, and Mary Pateras, director of UK importer Eclectic Wines, know all there is to know about Greek wine, and helped us put together this handy guide. Klearhos has provided suggested food pairings.

Malagousia

Klearhos says: ‘I often compare it to Viognier when suggesting it to diners – it’s aromatic, a bit oily and has the same florality, but more fruit. Depending on the ripeness of the grapes, you will find different styles: some are more Sauvignon Blanc-like, others reminiscent of Gewurztraminer. Some producers play with oak to add a bit of complexity; others blend Malagousia with Assyrtiko, with Malagousia giving the fruit and Assyrtiko the acidity and structure. It has less acidity than Moschofilero, and should be drunk relatively young.’

Mary says: ‘It was fairly unknown when we started importing Greek wine nearly 20 years ago, but by 2010 it had become mainstream, largely thanks to Gerovassiliou [a leading producer based near Thessaloniki]. Malagousia’s appeal lies in its approachability – you won’t find the austerity of Assyrtiko here, just lots of stone fruit.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: Seafood, smoked fish, paella with saffron flavouring, chicken salad with olive oil, honey and tangerine vinegar dressing. Serve at 12-14˚C.

Moschofilero

Klearhos says: ‘Another white to drink in its youth, this gastronomic white is often compared to a gentle Gewurztraminer. You find the same lychee, floral notes, but it’s more restrained, and with more peach and lime flavours. It’s the lightest of these white grape varieties, has modest alcohol and crisp acidity. You can age it for two or three years –it becomes more oily and the fruit and floral notes turn to dried versions of the same. It’s usually unoaked, though sometimes producers play with skin contact (it’s pink skinned) and / or lees ageing – this balances out the acidity to make it rounder. It’s found mainly in Greece’s Mantinia region.’

Mary says: ‘It’s like Gewurztraminer, but without the oiliness – aromatic, with rose petal and lychee. Its good acidity and low alcohol make it the perfect lunchtime wine. I love it with Thai and oriental dishes. In the same family you’ll find Mavrofilero, a clone of Moschofilero that has a darker skin.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: sushi, sashimi. Serve at 12˚C.

Assyrtiko

Klearhos says: ‘The Greek white most familiar to wine lovers outside Greece. It’s popular in the UK because the British palate likes mineral, high-acid wines (like Chablis and Sancerre). It’s a grape that has so much to give. In Santorini it has a special character, grown on volcanic soils with very low yields. Outside of Santorini – it’s grown across Greece – you’ll find more fruit (stone fruit, typically), and the minerality and salinity are less marked. I often compare it to premier or grand cru Chablis: mineral, with high acidity and fresh, green apple fruit (or in some versions, more tropical fruit). Some Assyrtiko is vinified in stainless steel with lees ageing; these can be quite closed in their youth, and densely structured – the best window for drinking would be at 4-6 years. Those that have more oak influence can behave like a red, and I would serve these slightly warmer, in a white Burgundy glass; these show at their best after 6-8 years. Producers used to favour vanilla-style oak, but there has been a move away from this.’

Mary says: ‘My favourite grape. Santorini has such a unique terroir that these expressions are incredibly special. Vines are ungrafted, unirrigated and phylloxera-free, and production is limited by low yields. It’s not an immediate crowd-pleaser, but a grape that grows on you, with immense complexity. Santorini Assyrtiko has more minerality, elegance and restraint; examples from the mainland are more fruit-driven.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: Try the stainless steel versions with grilled scallops, sesame paste and pomegranate, or grilled seabass with tomatoes, capers and herbs. Pair more oaky versions with rich seafood (lobster bisque, for instance) or even grilled lamb. Serve at 14˚C (15˚C for oaked versions).

Xinomavro

Klearhos says: ‘Over the last decade Xinomavro has become the most popular Greek red, edging out Agiorgitiko. It’s found in four appellations in Greece, and as well as the usual red wine, you can find sparkling Xinomavro (in Amyndeon), and Kyr Yianni makes a lovely rosé version. I’ve been in many blind tastings where Xinomavro has been mistaken for Nebbiolo – it’s similar in its high acidity, high tannins, palish colour and dried fruit, truffley, earthy flavours.

‘But as I like to point out, it’s often a quarter of the price! You also get notes of tomato and black olives, besides the dark plum and pruney fruit, that you wouldn’t find in Nebbiolo – that can be a good way to distinguish them blind. The best examples can age for decades, with the best window between 6 and 12 years, when you’ll find primary fruit and tertiary notes, but without the tannic grip. I would decant young Xinomavro for half an hour, and serve in a red Burgundy glass.’

Mary says: ‘When we started out, it was almost impossible to sell Xinomavro. The aromas are beautiful, but the dry tannins mean that it is less approachable than Agiorgitiko. Then Apostolos Thymiopoulos came along, tamed the tannins, and pioneered the commercial expression of young Xinomavro. Now it’s well and truly on the map. Uoaked versions have some similarity to Pinot Noir; I like to drink these versions with lamb or cheese. More oak-influenced Xinomavro works well with game.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: Try a young version with the Greek dish giouvetsi (orzo with tomato sauce and spice, gruyere cheese and beef or prawns). A more mature vintage would be perfect with a truffle risotto. Serve at 16-18˚C.

Agiorgitiko

Klearhos says: ‘When offering this to diners, I compare it to a Rioja, or a modern Tuscan red, but it’s often better value – you’ll find the same soft and finely grained, delicate tannins, a medium body and lots of fresh, juicy red fruit. The name translates as St George, and its principal home is Nemea. It’s the perfect grape to introduce you to Greek reds. [Tim Atkin MW wrote on his website last year: ‘If Xinomavro is an eccentric, three-piece suit, Agiorgitiko is a pair of pyjamas.’] And you can drink it in its youth while you’re waiting for your Xinomavro to mature. You wouldn’t want to age Agiorgitiko for longer than 6 or 7 years, as it’s all about seductive fruit and elegant tannins. There’s a lot of stylistic diversity – producers have been experimenting with this grape for 20 years. Some make it like a Bordeaux, others more like a Gamay. Today there seems to be a move away from heavy oaking and a focus on what’s happening in the vineyard. There’s no need to decant, and I’d recommend using a Bordeaux glass.’

Mary says: ‘It was all about Agiorgitiko when we started, as it’s so much more approachable than Xinomavro. If you like, Xinomavro is more masculine, and Agiorgitiko more feminine in profile, with velvety tannins, a medium body and soft morello cherry fruit. There’s an obvious similarity to Rioja.’

Suggested food pairings: Enjoy the fruit-driven, steel-aged versions at 15-16˚C, with canapés or cold cuts. The more concentrated, oak-aged styles would work perfectly at 16-18˚C, with slow-cooked pork shoulder with spices.

Muscat of Samos

Klearhos says: ‘These wines often show more fruit, more concentration and more complexity than Muscats from elsewhere. The lighter versions are fruit driven, while the rancio-style wines (like the Nectar, below) have notes of caramel, chocolate, dried fruit and honey. I’d serve them in a white wine glass rather than the tiny sweet wine glasses that you sometimes find – this will enable you to fully enjoy the incredible aromas.’

Mary says: ‘The sweet wines of Samos have become famous all over the world. They’re made from Muscat à Petit Grains, and some have the fermentation stopped and spirit added, while others are made from sundried grapes with no spirit added. I love to drink the lighter styles with pannacotta or blue cheese, and the wine will keep for two weeks in the fridge after opening.’

Suggested food pairings: Serve the lighter style vins doux at 12-14˚C with a tarte tatin or apricot tart. The rancio versions shouldn’t be served too cold – the Nectar would be delicious at 14˚C, at the end of a meal with cannelés or pétit fours, or with 36-month-old Parmesan served with figs or marmalade on the side.’

Greece’s flagship grapes: Wines to try

See also: Panel tasting – Greek red wines to try

From hazy tourist memories of bad retsina served in terrible glasses in tavernas, to the sensational modern-day Assyrtikos of Santorini island, Greek wine has come a long way. This is particularly felt in the country’s whites, which highlight freshness and structure, with moderate alcohol levels that rarely exceed 13.5%. There’s also an unexpected common thread – a saline aftertaste. Assyrtiko doesn’t have a monopoly on this, as a handful of other exciting white varieties have come to the fore.

Savatiano and pink-skinned Roditis account for one third of the 65,000ha total Greek vineyard. These varieties, traditionally associated with retsina, are being reinvented by passionate producers. Savatiano, which has its home in Attica, shows moderately intense aromas of apples, white peach and melon. It ages well, developing a honeyed, toasty character, almost like a Hunter Valley Semillon. Dry-farmed old bush vines tame its vigour, adding substance and layers of complexity. The unsung and often neutral Roditis, when planted in high-altitude sites such as Aigialeia in the Peloponnese, produces breath-taking wines with intense minerality. Both varieties react well to skin contact, which is becoming more and more common.

Mainland Greece has two more key aromatic varieties. Malagousia was rescued from extinction in the late 1960s and quickly won the hearts of most producers. It covers 520ha and produces single-varietal wines or softens the edges of Assyrtiko in blends. Aromas include flowers and herbs in cooler sites, followed by a round palate with soft acidity. It delivers its best in mountainous areas.

Compared to Assyrtiko, it offers the more approachable side of Greek whites; however, the best examples are worth cellaring for up to five years. Moschofilero, another pink-skinned variety planted mainly in Mantinia in the Peloponnese, could have been a big hit with its mix of Muscat aromas, high acidity and friendly prices, but it was a victim of its own success – as producers increased yields to meet rising demand, so overall quality suffered.

Fortunately, it’s making a comeback with rosé-style wines, some with lees ageing and smart oaking. The Greek islands showcase numerous varieties. Robola excels in Cephalonia, giving elegant, medium-bodied wines with lemon, grapefruit and fennel aromas, plus fresh acidity. Producers are experimenting with prolonged lees ageing, and some single-vineyard wines have been released. Vidiano is the superstar in Crete, delivering a dense core of apricot over sea-breeze minerality. Wines are fleshy and vibrant, with a satiny texture – the Greek Condrieu, as it works well with oak.

Other styles include orange and traditional-method sparkling wines. The list would not be complete without Aidani. A partner for Assyrtiko, it’s increasingly used on its own, delivering expressive wines with jasmine, peach, kumquat and tropical fruit. It’s made in two main styles: a rather Alsatian version and a more mineral one.

Yiannis Karakasis MW’s top 18 alternative Greek whites

On 7 November 2019, Decanter and Vinitaly teamed up at Bellavita Expo, London – the leading trade event dedicated to the promotion of Italian food and beverage – to host a Mediterranean-focused masterclass highlighting DWWA 2019 Platinum medal winners from Italy, Spain, France, Greece and Slovenia.

The award-winning line-up was presented by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine and a DWWA judge since 2009. Each wine in the line-up was expertly studied and described, from vinification methods to typicity and flavour profiles, and well received by the trade members in attendance.

Junior closed the sold-out masterclass with a nod to the Decanter World Wine Awards judging process, commenting:

On the topic of medals he added:

DWWA 2019 Platinum medal line-up

Pere Ventura, Vintage Gran Reserva Brut, Cava, Spain 2014

Platinum, 97 points

Elegant savoury nose with nuances of toasty oak with rich apple and marmite aromas. In the mouth is sharp, energetic and ethereal, with real depth a finely textured bubbles with a delicate texture.

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi, Macedonia, Greece 2018 

Platinum, 97 points

Profound, with purity and elegance. Aromatics of grass and herbs, with ripe white stone fruit. Beautiful core of Meyer lemon, white pepper and dried oregano, and a long finish. Excellent.

Siddùra, Bèru, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, Sardinia, Italy 2016

Platinum, 97 points

An enchanting example of Vermentino with delectable stone fruits and opulent tropical notes underpinned by a pure mineral backbone. Robust and intense with an elegant citrus freshness, a charming viscosity and a powerful, smoky finish.

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Ščurek, Rebula Up, Goriška Brda, Primorska, Slovenia 2013

Platinum, 97 points

Rich, elegant aromas of candied orange, apricot and dried fruits. Sweet spice and vanilla flavours on the palate, with lovely minerality and a long, ripe finish. Shows excellent complexity.

Tenuta Casteani, Marujo Syrah, Maremma Toscana, Tuscany, Italy 2016

Platinum, 97 points

This is superlatively made and effortlessly drinkable. Cassis, plum, Mediterranean herbs, green peppercorn and black spice weave through each other framed by velvety, but tenacious tannins. Silky, seamless and polished. All up, a very impressive Tuscan Syrah, the balance and length nigh-on perfect.

Merum Priorati, El Cel, Priorat, Spain 2016

Platinum, 97 points

Superb complexity on the nose with concentrated balckberries framed by elegant nose of oriental spices, black pepper and toasty oak. A unique wine, combining power and finesse, with a lingering open finish and tightly knitted tannins supported by a juicy core of fruit concentration.

Domaine De Baronarques, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2016

Platinum, 97 points

A seamless on-song Bordeaux style blend, yet with much more ripeness and juicy fruit gum character. Monumental depth of character which is enhanced by well-managed oak that is adroitly integrated with the silky tannins to give a fresh, elegant finish. Very complete, nuanced, long and beautifully balanced. Pitch-perfect now but still lots of life ahead. Excellent release.

Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria, Sicily, Italy 2016

Platinum, 98 points

More of an experience than merely a wine! An exotic blast of ripe stone fruit and sweet spice unfold to reveal honeyed layers of mandarin zest and sumptuous apricot. Creamy and luxurious with a superb acidity and captivating finish.

See full DWWA 2019 results

The black- and red-sand beaches of this volcanic island offer a stunning backdrop to some of the world’s most extreme vineyards, writes Nico Manessis. It’s worth braving the tourist crowds for...

Santorini wine travel guide

Most people head to Santorini to experience the jaw-dropping views and ever-changing colours, seen from the sugar-cube white houses perched all along the volcanic rim of the caldera. These jagged cliffs are the product of the huge eruption that occurred around 1613 BC.

• Spend 24 hours in Santorini

What you are experiencing is the force of nature’s catastrophic power, as well as its inexhaustible capacity for beauty. There are many sides to this fashionable destination, from the gorgeous volcanic black- and red-sand beaches and vibrant nightlife to the unique cubist, cave-like architecture.

• Read also: Top Athens wine bars and restaurants

The creamy-white pumice that covered most of the island as a result of the eruption gives rise to one of the most improbable vineyard locations. Sun and strong winds necessitated the ingenious, ground-hugging, basket-pruned method of vine training.

• Best Santorini restaurants, hotels and shops

Santorini’s sweet Vinsanto was traditionally exported, mostly to Tsarist Russia, rich Greek industrialists and the merchants of Egypt, but the market collapsed after the Russian Revolution in 1917. Much reduced in acreage today, Santorini soldiers on, with emphasis on the mineral-laden, bone-dry expressions of Assyrtiko, and some Vinsanto.

Today, the island’s ungrafted vines amount to 1,100 hectares. Of this, 65% are planted with the Assyrtiko grape. Not content with merely surviving in this apparently hostile natural environment, this variety manages to produce a singular, bone-dry white of inimitable character.

When Assyrtiko stepped onto the world stage 15 years ago, commentators coined the phrase ‘Chablis on steroids’. They’ve come a long way since, today offering mouthwatering freshness and food-friendly salinity. Their tannic bite gives them an edge, not unlike the drama of the windswept caldera cliffs. Few wines capture such a pronounced sense of place. If wine is geography in a bottle, the fact that ‘revisiting’ the island is just a click away is modern-day magic.

• See also: Greek white wines: 10 great value choices

Barren landscape

This lesser-known world can be discovered through Santorini’s extensive wine routes. Dotted with unique basket-shaped vine crowns, prickly pears and volcanic black rocks embedded in the creamy-white topsoil, the barren landscape presents an ever-changing, often lunar-like vista. The island is 70km2 and driving times to any winery, depending on your base, vary from 25 minutes to no longer than 45 minutes.

• Top volcanic wines of Santorini, Etna and Tenerife

A short list of wineries invites discovery. Domaine Sigalas is a boutique winery, with refined, bone-dry whites – look for the creamy Kavalieros – and it’s one of the addresses championing the rare red Mavrotragano grape. It’s set to trial eggshaped cement tanks with the 2016 harvest.

Next stop is Venetsanos Winery, carved out of pumice on the caldera cliff edge, and rich in history and atmosphere. At its height, Santorini wine production was mostly made into Vinsanto – sweet dessert wine made from sun-dried between 1860-1920, an era when wine wineries housed in farmsteads carved into the rock – many of which are now converted to villas or boutique hotels. The terraces at Venetsanos offer one of the island’s most breathtaking views, and in the wines, nuances from their Megalochori and Pyrgos vineyards abound.

Further south, you can see what a 19thcentury canava really looked like at the Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum. A large part of the underground cellars have been converted into a museum and the singlevineyard Ksera Homata is one of several characterful, terroir-driven wines you can try.

• RELATED: More wine travel inspiration

Argyros Estate is a historic Vinsanto producer in a new, modern, Cycladic-styled winery. It’s a must-visit to try the island’s most significant aged Vinsantos – the 12-year-old is a particular star. This sweet wine style is a life-saver – literally. The late Mattheos Argyros, grandfather of the current namesake, used to tell of how intertwined the islanders’ lives were with grape farming. During World War II, they hid cherished casks of Vinsanto, knowing their worth. As there were no fruit trees on the island, and little or no sugar on the black market, they would dilute the wine, rich in residual sugar, with rainwater. This magic potion saved lives on the island, as it prevented hypoglycaemia in pregnant women.

If you’re looking to taste something unique, Gaia Wines is housed in an impressively built ex-tomato cannery on a black-sand beach. Each year workers retrieve 500 bottles which have spent four years submerged in the Aegean sea, 20m below the surface. Taste, with your toes not far from the surf, the different nuances derived from cellaring on land and underwater.

Nico Manessis is the DWWA Regional Chair for Greece and Cyprus, and publishes Greekwineworld.net blog

More wine travel guides:

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What popular wine grape is Bulgarian variety Rubin similar to? Find out with this insider report on a recent masterclass for wines from Greece, Bulgaria and parts of Italy, held by Konstantinos Lazarakis MW.

‘What these regions have in common is not always easy to understand to start with,’ Lazarakis said as he began the tutored tasting. The focus would be on wines of Greece, Bulgaria – particularly the Thracian Valley – and Emilia-Romagna in Italy.

• In pictures: Decanter Greece Italy and Bulgaria tasting 2016

The session started with a video, which emphasised that these places share ‘a common wine tradition and culture.’

They are also all regions that have produced wine for a very long time: for around three or four millennia. Although they aren’t the oldest winemaking regions, these countries were the first to really develop a culture around wine and to enjoy with food, said Lazarakis.

Sadly they suffered from what he called ‘rock star syndrome’; too much success, too early and too quickly, to then sit on their laurels – so now many consumers have a confused idea about the quality of the wines.

• Book now: Decanter Spain and Portugal Fine Wine Encounter

The wines

Kicking off with wines from Emilia-Romagna, Lazarakis said that Italy has clear positive connotations about many things; wine, food, clothes, cars – ‘although, football…. Not so much’. Emilia Romagna is home to many of these positive things.

From an aromatic Malvasia di Candia Aromatica to a very food-friendly Lambrusco, what was clear was a great diversity of styles just from this one region of Italy.

Moving on to Greek wines, wines included an aromatic and acidic – almost 3pH – white wine, from Moscofilero, a variety similar to Muscat, and a red made from Xinomavro, similar to Nebbiolo that, according to Lazarakis, ‘proved that Greek wine can be top quality.’

• Greek wines: 10 great value choices

The Bulgarian wines were mainly from the Thracian Valley, which is close to the Greek border. Again, unusual varieties were showcased, such as Rubin, a variety created post –World War Two, from Nebbiolo and Syrah – giving it both complexitiy and ‘guts’.

The final was a blend, primarily of Mavrud, prompting Lazarakis to tell the old tale of how Mavrud got its name; involving a man killing a lion after drinking some local wine.

Food and wine cultures

The idea of a shared culture around wine between these regions was clear; these are all places that want wine to be enjoyed with food – a point also emphasised by the producers showing their wines at the trade and consumer tastings.

‘This wine needs to go with rich Italian dishes,’ Beatrice Brighenti, of Monte dell Vigne told Decanter.com during the trade tasting, referring to their Lambrusco Selezione.

By keeping food in mind, places with these kinds of traditions have a ‘completely different approach’ to winemaking, said Lazarakis. ‘You don’t need to be spoon-fed all the flavours and structures.’

• The 10 rules of food and wine matching

He then mentioned how a sommelier advised him that ‘matching colour is very important when matching food and wine’; think Italian tomato dishes with a red wine – with the acidity to stand up to it as well.

Food-friendly and to be enjoyed as part of the Mediterranean lifestyle, the wines of Greece, Italy and Bulgaria are definitely worth giving a chance.

The full masterclass wine list:

• Torre Fornello, Donna Luigia 2014
• Tenuta Santa Cecilia Croara Pignoletto Superiore 2014
• Monte delle Vigne, Lambrusco Selezione 2014
• Celli, Le Grillaie, Sangiovese Superiore 2014
• Fratelli Bonelli, Gutturnio Riserva 2012
• Domaine Skouras, Moscofilero 2015
• Alexakis winery, Vidiano 2015
• Mediterra winery, Mirambelo 2011
• Vaeni Naoussa, Bios Ellinon 2008
• Alpha Estate, Alpha Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines 2011
• Brestovitsa, Rubin 2013
• Kamenki, Kamatan 2014

See photo highlights from the Discoveries of Greece, Italy and Bulgaria Decanter tasting event this week (2nd February 2016).

Across both trade and consumer tastings, more than 300 people came to discover more about the wines from Greece, Italy and Bulgaria.

Held in the Insititute of Directors in London’s Pall Mall, 19 producers showcased more than 80 wines from these countries.

The trade event also included a masterclass from Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, further exploring the similarities between these winemaking countries.

The Discoveries of Greece Italy Bulgaria tasting was held at the Institute of Directors.

19 producers showcased their wines.

Monte delle Vigne showed their wines and Lambrusco.

Alpha Estate, from Amyndeon in Greece, showed its red and white dry wines.

Torre Fornello, from the Colli Piacentini hills in Emilia-Romagna

Konstantinos Lazarakis MW lead a masterclass on wines of Greece, Italy and Bulgaria.

The wines at the Discoveries of Greece Italy and Bulgaria masterclass.

Tenuta Santa Cecilia Croara showed a selection of sparkling and still wines.

Trade professionals try wines at the Decanter Greece, Italy and Bulgaria tasting.

Domaine Skouras, from the Nemea Peloponesse region in Greece.

Wines from Pulden & Villa Yambol, in Bulgaria

Mossi 1558 from Emilia-Romagna.

La Sabbiona in Emilia-Romagna showed some of their dry red and white wines.

Fattoria Moretto showed a selection of Lambruscos and sparkling wines.

Fratelli Bonelli showed some of their sparkling and red wines.

Decanter's Steven Spurrier tasting the wines.

Over 300 people came to the trade and consumer tastings.

Celli Winery showcased some of their dry red and white wines.

Condé Winery showed a range of Sangiovese wines.

Casali Viticultori showed a range of red and white sparkling wines.

Explore the ancient origins of winemaking from these Southern European regions.

A selection of small, independent producers from Greece, Italy and Bulgaria are flying in for this exceptional tasting of premium Mediterranean wines. Discover emerging regions and journey back to the roots of winemaking in the impressive, period surroundings of London’s Institute of Directors.

TRADE TASTING: 11am-4.30pm 

Trade Masterclass with Konstantinos Lazarakis MW 11am-12pm

Trade only register HERE

CONSUMER TASTING: 6pm-8pm

Tickets £25 – BOOK HERE

Find out about our Decanter World Wine Awards 2014 Greece & Cyprus judging panel with biographies of the Regional Chair Nico Manessis plus Elvis Ziakos, Steve Daniel and Theresa Paopao.

Regional chair: Nico Manessis

Manessis is an expert on the wines of his native Greece and the author of three wine books. He spends several months each year in the Greek vineyards, which he documents at Greekwineworld.com. He recently co-produced the award-winning documentary Pelican’s Watch, on Santorini’s unique vineyard. Manessis teaches at the Swiss Ecole du Vin de Changins, and at the Université du Vin in Suze la Rousse, France. He is a member of the Académie Internationale du Vin and is writing a book on Santorini’s terroir and produce with chef Vassilis Zacharakis.

Judges

Elvis Ziakos

Elvis Ziakos is assistant head sommelier at The Greenhouse restaurant in London. Starting his career in his native Greece, Ziakos completed sommelier studies at the Le Monde Institute in Athens and worked as head sommelier at Kohylia restaurant at the Grand Resort Lagonissi from 2002 to 2007. He then spent five years working at the Michelin-starred Spondi restaurant as their head sommelier, before moving to London in 2012 to join the team at Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. Ziakos has won many awards as a sommelier, including representing Greece at the Best Sommelier of the World competition in 2007.

Steve Daniel

Steve Daniel has been buying director of Novum Wines, a specialist importer focusing on restaurants, and now part of Hallgarten Druitt, since 2003. He previously worked at Oddbins, where he was buying and marketing director, and during his time with the company Steve championed Greek wines, as well as being largely responsible for increasing Oddbins’ profile in the UK.

Theresa Paopao

Theresa Paopao hails from the small town of Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii. She left island life to pursue a graduate degree at the Yale School of Drama in New Haven, and then moved to Boston where she fell in love with the restaurant business and the world of wine. On joining the Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Paopao became serious about a career in hospitality and beverages, and after working as manager, she went on to be their wine director and general manager. In 2010, she joined the New York Momofuku team as wine director, a role which took her to Ontario to open their new spaces in Toronto in 2012, and Paopao is now back in Boston where she is the beverage director and general manager of Ribelle which earned four stars from the Boston Globe shortly after it opened last summer.

Written by John Abbott

Hear from our Greece & Cyprus Regional Chair Nico Manessis on which wines to buy, which wines to leave on the shelf and what to keep an eye on from this year's Decanter World Wine Awards....

The Greek econo mic crisis has been a boon for wine. Minds have focused on exports, which continue to grow, along with value. In this year’s DWWA, Greek wines had their highest strike rate ever, garnering 12 Gold medals and six Trophies. Santorini’s Assyrtiko has finally seen a breakthrough, where professionals and international opinion leaders are finally appreciating these one-of-a-kind, bone-dry wines. Elsewhere, dry and sweet whites are delivering an impressive track record in consistency, hitting new heights in quality and sophistication. The commitment by Cyprus to join the 21st century in terms of wine predates the current economic climate. Cypriot wine is clearly undergoing a period of transition and a wider shift in mentality is now needed to focus on re-energising these ancient vineyards. The Gold and seven Silvers illustrate the unlocked potential of this historic island-vineyard. New approaches have been introduced, and it shows. But there must be more to come.

What should we buy from here?

Whites from Crete excelled: the Vidianá and Vilana grapes are worth seeking out for their unique qualities and sense of place. Savatiano, from Attica in central Greece, has also joined the party, showing that it can compete with the finest mineraledged whites. The red Xinomavro, with its unmatched floral profile and hard-edged tannins, has, in the softer 2011 vintage, delivered a classier, more accessible expression. Marks & Spencer’s own-label scored a Silver – try it! From Cyprus, seek out the character and freshness of Xynisteri-based whites.

What should we leave on the shelf?

A few isolated spots have not kept up with all the changes over the past 20 years. Yet, these are unlikely to find their way on to the export market. Green, unripe flavours in both reds from Crete and Cyprus Bordeaux blends were poor showings.

What should we keep an eye on?

Greece’s white Kidonitsa and the red Limniona are exciting grapes with a promising future. On Cyprus, Maratheftiko – both in flavourful rosés and fragrant reds – is making a strong argument for rediscovering the vinous heritage of this island.

Written by Decanter

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Watch a video from Decanter's exceptional tasting from a selection of small independent wineries exploring the ancient winemaking regions of Southern Europe and the Mediterranean.

Playlist 18 Videos

Video: Decanter's 'Discoveries from Greece, Italy and Bulgaria' tasting 04:49

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2017 01:25

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2016: Discovery Theatres 01:00

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter 2016 02:24

2016 Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter consumer video 02:22

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Video: Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter highlights 04:26

DFWE 2014 video: Contino - 40 years of excellence masterclass with Jesús de Madrazo 01:56

DFWE 2014 video: Creating Cult Classics in Traditional Bordeaux masterclass with Jonathan Maltus 03:06

DFWE 2014 video: Brunello di Montalcino masterclass with Ian D'Agata 03:42

DFWE 2014 video: Château Léoville Barton masterclass with Lilian Barton-Sartorious 02:26

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French Encounter 2013: Sandrine Audegond, AdVini 02:23

Decanter readers are being given the opportunity to taste more than 80 wines from some of Europe's most historic vineyard sites at an exclusive tasting in January.

On 28 January 2014, Decanter will host its Discoveries from Greece, Italy and Bulgaria tasting at Chandos House in central London.

For £15 a ticket, readers will be able to taste more than 80 wines from a selection of small, independent wineries.

A tasting for the wine trade will take place during the day between 11am and 4:30pm before Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, who is based in Greece and has written widely on Greek wines, will speak at the evening consumer tasting, which takes place between 6pm and 8pm.

To register for the daytime trade tasting click here, and tickets for the exclusive evening tasting are now on sale here.

Written by Decanter.com staff

Remote vineyards and ancient monuments make this region the ideal destination for a wine-lovers’ road trip. Just don’t forget to fill up, says Sarah Jane Evans MW

Peloponnese, Greece:

Total planted area: 21,000ha (hectares)

Main grape varieties: Roditis (7,200ha), Aghiorghitiko (2,700ha), Savatiano (950ha), Moschofilero (750ha)

Production in 2011: 1.6million hl, 75% sold as bottled wine

Main soil types: very diverse – clay, limestone, sandstone, alluvial and some schist

Quick links:

– Six of the best wineries to visit

– Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

Introduction:

World-class monuments, indigenous grape varieties, mountains and monasteries, glorious beaches, the freshest of feta cheese, almost empty roads – the Peloponnese is the ideal wine lover’s holiday. Every day brings history and hospitality. Dotted around are vineyards so well integrated into the dramatic countryside that there is none of the monovarietal overkill that has spoiled so many parts of the world. In general, too, there are many smaller-scale family businesses, which means there’s a good chance of meeting the owner or a relative. Everything about the Peloponnese – except the mountains – is on a human scale.

Stunning hill country

Accessibility is on your side as there’s no need to take a ferry to an island. Island holidays may be romantic, but as the Greeks will tell you, the ferries are becoming more expensive and their quality is falling. It’s much easier to pick up a car and take the highway out of Athens over the Corinth Canal.

In half an hour the first hills come into view. The region has seven mountains of 2,000m or more. Drive towards Nafplio, a favourite weekend spot for Athenians, and you are in Nemea, home to the red grape variety St George, or Aghiorghitiko – Greece’s most widely planted red. Its small, thick-skinned berries give rich, red fruits and some spiciness. It works successfully as a rosé, as a Beaujolais Nouveau style, as well as blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to make a structured wine.

There’s plenty of talk about sub-regions in Nemea. Winemakers with vineyards in the hillside region of Koutsi claim it’s a cru, as do those on the Asprokambos plateau, at about 800m in altitude.

It would be easy to visit all the Nemean wineries in a day or two. Allow Nafplio to delay you with its shops, its Venetian fortification in the harbour, the beach at Tolo and its monuments, notably the ancient cities of Mycenae and Tiryns. I first visited Mycenae as a classics student. It astonished me back then, but the amount of archaeological discovery since is remarkable – try to get there as soon as the gates open to have the site to yourself.

West of Nafplio lies Mantineia, where the white Moschofilero variety dominates. As aromatic and delicate as its name suggests, it makes a relatively low-alcohol white that’s perfect drinking in a hot summer. Then continue past Tripoli and ancient olive groves to the Byzantine island citadel of Monemvasia. It’s breathtaking the way the tiny town clings to the side of the great rock. Legend has it that the Malvasia grape was named after the island and that the Venetian occupiers took the vines around the Mediterranean. The new appellation of Malvasia of Monemvasia (for sweet wines from sun-dried grapes aged at least two years in oak) began with the 2010 vintage, but no wines have been released yet.

Tempting tavernas

Enjoy the local wines in a taverna, accompanied by a savoury pastry filled with wild greens, or a pork casserole with a lemon and potato sauce. This region has a selection of grape varieties of its own, including the golden Kidonitsa (‘little quince’), Asproudi (‘little white’) and red Mavroudi (‘little black’).

From here, you can either return to Athens, or take the dramatic road over the Taygetos mountains to the west coast via Kalamata. There’s a great opportunity to discover the windy, coastal vineyards being revived. Visit the historic fishing village of Pylos and the unspoilt almost circular Voidokilia (‘bull’s belly’) beach.

If you have time to enjoy a few more days here, drive north towards Pyrgos, making a detour to the Temple of Apollo at Bassae. The Mercouri Estate (www.mercouri.gr) offers a warm welcome and is interesting for its Italian varieties including Refosco and Ribolla Giala. Continuing north brings you to Mavrodaphne and Muscat of Patras – vins doux and vins doux naturels. Mavrodaphne is one of the most well-known names of Greece, but – like Retsina – not always for the best reasons. Worth a detour is Antonopoulos near Patras, with its successful blends of native and international varieties.

Spring is a wonderful time to visit Greece, when the countryside is in flower and before it gets too hot. In 2014 the Greek Orthodox Easter coincides with ours, on 20 April. In autumn the summer crowds have dissipated and it’s a more relaxing time to visit the monuments and vineyards alike.

How to get there:

By plane: British Airways flies to Athens from London Heathrow. Easy Jet starts flights twice weekly to Kalamata from 6 July from London Gatwick. Flight time 3hrs 40mins.

Written by Sarah Jane Evans MW

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Remote vineyards and ancient monuments make this region the ideal destination for a wine-lovers’ road trip. Just don’t forget to fill up, says Sarah Jane Evans MW

Peloponnese: Six of the best wineries to visit

☆ Semeli

Founded in 1979, Semeli’s Domaine Helios winery sits at 600m in the highly prized Koutsi region, with superb views. Welcoming to visitors, it offers a good range of Greek varieties and you can stay here.

semeliwines.gr

☆ Skouras

George Skouras launched his pioneering label Mega Oenos in 1988, the first to blend Cabernet with Aghiorghitiko, followed by his Viognier Eclectique and Dum Vinum Sperum Chardonnay. Labyrinth, a special blend, is topped up, solera style, every year.

skouras.gr

☆ Papagiannakos

This award-winning modern winery is just 15 minutes the other side of the airport from Athens. There’s a chance to discover fresh Savatiano from Attica, as well as a resinated – Retsina – version.

papagiannakos.gr

☆ Palivos

George Palivos, the third generation here, is an Aghiorghitiko specialist. He describes Nemea as ‘the Bordeaux of southeast Europe’. The winery is 800m from the impressive site of ancient Nemea.

palivos.gr

☆ Tselepos

Giannis Tselepos trained in Dijon, and grows Moschofilero, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Merlot and Cabernet. Tselepos Estate is 14km southeast of Tripoli near the ancient city of Tegea, in the foothills of Mount Parnon. A tour includes a little chapel in the midst of the vineyards.

tselepos.gr

☆ Gaia

In Koutsi, Nemea, Gaia produces top-quality Aghiorghitiko, showing the potential seriousness of the grape. A regular Trophy winner at the Decanter World Wine Awards, visits are by appointment.

gaia-wines.gr

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Remote vineyards and ancient monuments make this region the ideal destination for a wine-lovers’ road trip. Just don’t forget to fill up, says Sarah Jane Evans MW

Peloponnese: Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

HOTELS

Grande Bretagne Hotel

Five-star luxury in Syntagma Square, Athens, opposite Parliament. Lovely views from the rooftop restaurant, plus a spa and pools.

grandebretagne.gr

New Hotel

Small and friendly, this funky, four-star Athens hotel is just minutes from both Syntagma Square and the Plaka district.

newhotel.athenshotels.it

Grande Bretagne Hotel

Nafplion has lots of pensions and small hotels. This one (different to the Grand Bretagne above) is the classic, packed with old-world charm, right on the waterfront.

grandebretagne.com.gr

Costa Navarino resort

Tucked away from it all in the southwest Peloponnese, two beachside five-star hotels – the high-end Romanos and the family-friendly Westin – have golf courses and a spa. Extensive activities are offered: Philosophical Walks led by scholars; regional cookery lessons; trips to Nestor’s Palace and Messini; weekend wine tastings with Greece’s only MW, Konstantinos Lazarakis; vineyard visits and olive-picking.

costanavarino.com

Kinsterna Hotel & Spa

Picturesque boutique hotel created out of a Byzantine mansion, with stunning views over Monemvasia and the Aegean. Set amid olives and vines, the traditional tsipouro spirit is distilled here in the autumn. There’s a spa, pool and wine tastings.

kinsternahotel.gr

RESTAURANTS

Aleria

A beautiful neoclassical house in Athens with a stunning courtyard garden for summer meals, the young chef here has a formidable reputation.

aleria.gr

Orizontes Lycabettus

Good modern food with the best view in Athens, on Lycabettus hill looking down over the Parthenon.= Take the funicular railway from Aristippou Street in Kolonaki.

orizonteslycabettus.gr

Strofi

In Athens, book a rooftop table for close-up views of the Parthenon. Classic dishes.

strofi.gr

Pachi

On the road from Athens airport down to Nafplion, stop at Pachi. This is authentic Greece: a small village with fishing boats, and tavernas selling the daily catch.

Matoula

Tucked inside the historic town of Monemvasia this offers traditional taverna cooking, with lovely views.

matoula.gr

3 Sixty wine bar

Nafplio’s daytime coffee-shopcum- night-time-disco, with an excellent selection of local wines.

3sixtycafe.com

SHOPPING

Pantopoleion

In the Plaka quarter of Athens, there are lots of small shops selling olive oil, olives, herbs, honey and more. Best known is this one on Sofokleous St.

+30 210 3234612.

MUSEUMS

Set aside two days in Athens for visiting the key sights – the Acropolis and its museum has a good restaurant (theacropolismuseum.gr). The National Archaeological Museum houses treasures from Mycenae (www.namuseum.gr) and, close by, the Ilias Lalaounis Museum displays an astonishing collection of gold and jewellery, both historical and modern (lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr).

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Tourists flock to Greece every year to enjoy the region's uplifting scenery, food and hospitality, but its fine wines have been harder to unearth. NICO MANESSIS reveals the best Greek destinations for wine loving sun seekers.

For most tourists, Greece is all about lying on the beach, book in one hand, glass of ouzo in the other, enjoying the cooling sea breeze. But there is a new wind blowing through Hellenic vineyards, and it is a wind of change. Young, talented winemakers are emerging in modern wineries in several Greek regions, each with different soils and a clutch of lesser-known grapes. The result, from the country whose language made us all oenologists, is the latest buzzword – oenotourismos.

Cephalonia

Cephalonia is the largest and least spoilt of the Ionian islands. Dominating its landscape is the 1,630m-high Mount Aenos, a designated national park with high plateaus and thick woods brimming with a unique species of Cephalonian fir tree.

The capital, Argostoli, has several museums that return visitors to the lively, structured society of the island prior to the devastating 1953 earthquakes. Fiscardo, on the north-eastern shoreline, was the only village to survive the quakes and is now a cosmopolitan playground with first-rate restaurants on the sheltered harbour.

There are three main categories of Cephalonian wine: crisp whites from the Robola grape; fragrant, sweet Muscats; and full-bodied red wines from the Mavrodaphne grape (these are in this instance dry and not to be confused with their sweet, port-like namesake from the Patras region).

Best Wineries

Gentilini: British winemaker Gabrielle Beamish makes top-notch, terroir-driven wines at this pioneering boutique winery and vineyard in Minies. The lemon-scented, minerally Robola is a good expression of this low-yielding, ungrafted Cephalonian specialty. The 2001 Syrah has a very dark colour and ripe, peppery fruit in an off-beat blend with 15% Mavrodaphne.

By appointment: Tel +30 267 104 1618. www.gentilini.gr

Sclavos: On the south-west peninsula of Paliki, this winery draws on clay-based soil. Orgion is a terrific, cask-aged wine from Mavrodaphne. The 2000 is one to lay down and bears no resemblance to any other Greek wine made from this grape. Idis is a floral Muscat from sun-dried grapes.

By appointment: Tel +30 267 109 1930.

Hotels

White Rocks, Lassi: Five-star resort hotel above a sandy beach, with restaurants and a decent pool.

Tel +30 267 102 8322

www.tapestryholidays.co.uk: Unusual accommodation for the discerning tourist. Some is adults only.

Restaurants

Kiani Akti (Argostoli): On a platform that extends over the sea. Specialises in fish and shellfish. Good wine list.

Tel +30 267 102 6680

Vasso’s (Fiscardo): Top quality fish and Cephalonian specialties. Broad wine list with many of the island’s rarer labels. For dessert, try plain yoghurt topped with the sublime island honey.

Tel +30 267 404 1276

Tassia (Fiscardo): The island’s most famous restaurant. Chef turned food writer Tassia Dendrinou has them queuing up.

Tel +30 267 404 1205

Santorini

A windswept island overlooking extinct volcanoes in the cobalt blue Aegean, Santorini is an unlikely source of fine wine. Its soils are laced with deep red iron oxides and white pumice stones. Their pale cream, greyish flavour is favoured by the vines, and low in organic matter. The vines, ungrafted and 80 years old, are ground-hugging and pruned like a woven basket.

The island boasts two appellations. The first, Santorini, is bone dry and from Assyrtiko, arguably Greece’s finest white cultivar. The luscious Santorini Vinsanto, from Assyrtiko, has small amounts of the rare, remarkably fruity Aidani.

https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/europe/top-five-santorini-wineries-to-visit-414348/

Best Wineries

Canava Arghyros, Episkopi: The 2001 Ktima Arghyrou Santorini strikes a fine balance between the searing acidity of Assyrtiko and its long, mineral aftertaste. Arghyros is also home to the finest, oldest and priciest Vinsanto reserves. The current vintage, 1983, with 20 years in cask and mahogany colouring, has the appearance of an elixir rather than a wine.

Open daily, 9am–2pm and 6–9pm: Tel +30 228 603 1489

J.Boutari & Son Wineries, Megalohori: The cask-aged 2001 Kallisti Santorini has a polished, cosmopolitan gloss and will improve until 2005. The 1998 Vinsanto is well priced, and reveals another style of this historic wine.

Open daily, 10am– 7pm, April to October: Tel +30 228 608 1011

Gaia, Monolithos: Few wineries can claim to be a stone’s throw from a volcanic black beach. Yet star winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopoulos’ vat-fermented Thalassitis Santorini reflects the freakish soils and unusual micro-climate of this unique island vineyard. The 2001 Thalassitis is citrussy, vibrant and with a smoky palate.

Open daily, 9am–2pm and 6–9pm: Tel +30 694 577 7814

Sigalas, Kampos Oia: The finest of the dry, barrel-fermented Santorinis is the 2001 Sigalas Bareli – yeasty, honeyed and with a faint trace of iodine. The Vinsanto and Mezzo (sweet but not aged as long as Vinsanto) are light and fresh.

Open daily, 10am–6pm, April to October: Tel +30 697 770 6930

Hotels

Perivolas Apartments (Oia): Overlooking the caldera, and immaculately kept.

Tel +30 228 607 1308

Katikies (Oia): Superb views, high-end services. Wine tastings plus smart-casual or gourmet dining.

Tel + 30 228 607 1401; www.katikies.com

Altana Apartments (Imerovigli): The highest point overlooking the caldera. Less ritzy, with homey furnishings.

Tel +30 228 602 3240; www.exploresantorini.com

Restaurants

1800 (Oia): Local and Cycladic dishes plus a more international selection. Wine list championing the island’s best producers.

Tel +30 228 607 1485

Domata (Monolithos): Cool, casual, by the beach. Chef Chrisanthos serves modern Greek and fusion cuisine with a difference. Limited but well-chosen wine list.

Tel +30 22 8603 2069

Vanilia (Firostefani): Cosy and romantic, with traditional, non-touristy, re-invented dishes.

Tel +30 22 8602 5631 Crete

Beyond the overbuilt northern shoreline of Crete lies a different facet to the largest Greek island. Here, a land of snow-capped mountains and rugged canyons beckons to be discovered. Its fauna is one of the richest in the Mediterranean. Above the ruins of the Minoan Palace in Knossos, the rolling hills around Peza and Archanes are the source of some of Crete’s finest olive oils. They are now also home to emerging modern wineries.

Crete is the latest Greek wine region to join the quality revolution. The wines are improving with each vintage and by far the most convincing are the aromatic new-wave whites from the indigenous Vilana, found mainly around Peza. The widely planted red grapes Kotsifali and Mandelari are usually blended in an 80/20 ratio, resulting in a variety of styles, from tannic and rustic to smooth and modern. The pale, red-brown Liatiko is best suited to sweet wines. Syrah is a recent arrival on the island.

Best Wineries:

J. Boutari & Son Wineries, Skalani: The soils here are high in limestone and densely planted with local and international varieties. The Sauvignon Blanc is a paragon of varietal expression, while the all-Cretan specialties offer a more unique drinking experience. The red Kotsifali-Mandelari blends are improving, and the sun-dried Liatiko grape provides a fine example of the dessert wine. Look out for the Malvasia Aromatica and the rare Muscat Spinas.

Open every day in summer, 10am–7pm: Tel +30 28 1073 1617

Creta-Olympias, Kounavi: This forward-thinking winery has invested in technology and people. Viticulturist Niki Tavernaraki is at the forefront of research into the potential of Cretan grape varieties. The 2002 Xerolithia (white), made from Vilana, is packed with character despite the difficult vintage. The 2001 Mirambelo (red), bursting with juicy fruit, is made from Kotsifali and Mandelari.

Open seven days a week in summer, 9am–2pm: Tel +30 281 074 1383

Hotels

Hotel Mythos (Rethymno): Renovated Venetian.

Tel +30 283 105 3917; www.mythos-crete.gr

Casa Delfino: (Chania, in the old town). Renovated Venetian.

Tel +30 282 109 3098

The Agioklima (Heraklio): Renovated rustic charm.

Tel +30 281 022 3861

Restaurants

Taverna o Platanos (Vrahasi at Lasithi, eastern Crete) Home cooking and seasonal vegetable dishes unique to the Cretan countryside.

Tel +30 284 103 3137

Taverna o neos Omalos: (Chania, western Crete) A marvel of unusual dishes, such as bitter, pickled bulbs from the Hyacinth family.

Tel +30 282 205 1569

Taverna o Hriasomenos: (Heraklio, central Crete) Off the track, this rich kitchen features such delights as rabbit stew with onions, cloves and laurel.

Tel +30 281 032 4008

Peloponnes

Separated from the mainland by the Corinth Canal, the Peloponnese boasts the largest area of quality Greek vineyard. This mountainous spot produces a fantastic diversity of styles from over 30 indigenous grapes. There are two appellations: Mantinia surrounds the town of Tripoli and a cool-climate Mediterranean profile makes this high plateau (650m) perfect for the late-ripening, pink-skinned Moschofilero grape. A young drinking, crisp, floral wine, this variety is fast gaining recognition abroad. Less than an hour’s drive north-east lies Nemea, planted solely with Agiorgitiko, of dark colour and soft tannins. A versatile grape, it can produce early drinking, soft, fruity styles and serious, structured wines for ageing. The region is leading quality Greek wine out of anonymity.

Best Wineries

Tselepos: The leader of the Mantinia pack with an intense, grapey derivative, Tselepos produces an improving dry sparkling wine (Villa Amalia) as well as a nicely-perfumed Gewurztraminer. The single vineyard Kokkinomylos Merlot from the 2000 vintage is a stand-out red.

Open daily, 9am–3pm: Tel +30 271 054 4440

Spiropoulos: Ode Panos is a tasty sparkling wine, the red 2001 Porfyros a toothsome blend of Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Some Spiropoulos labels are organic, while it also produces a lean, austere Mantinia.

Open daily, 9am–3pm: Tel +30 279 606 1400

Gaia: This winery is home to the best, most modern wines in Nemea. Bursting with cherry fruit, the 2001 Notios red is playful and fun. The fine 2001 Nemea is velvety smooth and stylish, while the flagship 2000 Gaia Estate is more structured and unfiltered – a lovely wine now but likely to age to 2012.

Open daily, 9am–3pm: Tel + 30 27 5102 3688

Skouras: A more conservative approach to winemaking is adopted at Skouras. Its great-value, consistent Agiorgitiko, and the lithe 2000 Grande Cuvée are worth a try. The 2000 Megas Oenos is a big, cask-aged Agiorgitiko blended with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. This falls outside Nemea’s official classification due to the blend, but has a great intensity and a smoky aftertaste.

Open daily, 9am–3pm: Tel +30 275 102 3688

Hotels

Argolikos Helios: Luxury, set on a Venetian castle with stunning views. Two restaurants with a excellent wine list.

Tel +30 275 202 8981-5

Byron Hotel: Small, neo-classical hotel in the old town. Breakfast served in a delightful courtyard.

Tel +30 275 202 2351

Pension Marianna: Below the castle walls. Serves a great breakfast.

Tel +30 275 202 4256

Restaurants & Tavernas: Noufara Restaurant: Italian and modern Greek cuisine, with views of the castle.

Tel: +30 275 202 3648

To Omorfo Tavernaki: Neigbourhood taverna. Great mezze. Good house wine.

Tel:+30 275 202 5944

Karonis Wine Shop: 400 Greek labels and 150 foreign. Tutored tastings by arrangement. English, French and Italian spoken. Amalias 5, Naufplio.

Tel +30 275 202 4446

Thessaloniki

It may be Greece’s second largest town, but Thessaloniki is still only a third of the size of Athens. Despite its ancient roots, it’s a cosmopolitan city with a modern outlook. The city has a rich architectural heritage, with ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine influences.

The wine here is mostly white, with the pear-drop, soft Roditis grape the most widely planted, but the crisp Assyrtiko and aromatic Malagousia are both growing in profile. Reds have followed an international route, through deeply coloured Merlot and rich tasting Syrah, either monovarietals or blends.

Best Wineries

Ktima Gerovassiliou: Located in Epanomi, 30 minutes from the city. Its white 2002 Ktima Gerovassiliou is a blend of Assyrtiko and Malagousia, vibrant with citrus flavours. The 2001 red is a rich, cask-aged spicy Syrah and Merlot blend. Gerovassiliou also makes a fat Viognier, a honeyed Chardonnay from 20-year-old vines and a blockbuster Sauvignon Blanc.

By appointment: Tel +30 239 204 4567

Hotels

Andromeda Thessaloniki: Small, luxury hotel in renovated 1920s four-storey building. Central.

Tel +30 231 037 3700

Bristol Capsis Hotel: Elegant luxury in a 19th-century building in the trendy Ladadika district.

Tel +30 231 050 6500

Electra Palace: Recently renovated, luxurious hotel in a neo-classical building overlooking the town’s main square.

Tel+30 231 023 2219

Restaurants

Mandragoras (Mitropoleos 98): Elegant bar-restaurant, boasting a classical menu of Mediterranean cuisine and an up-to-date wine list.

Tel +30 231 028 5372

Michou-Michou (Stratigou Kalari 9): Small, trendy with minimalist décor and a light touch in the kitchen. Boutique winery wine list.

Tel +30 231 027 2778

Orient (Komninon 18): The town’s most ‘in’ meze-bar has good food in a classic Middle Eastern atmosphere complete with belly dancers.

Tel: +30 231 024 4623

https://www.decanter.com/features/a-sailing-trip-around-the-greek-islands-246755/

While native varieties in Greece are growing in popularity, it will be the familiar, international grapes that put the country on the map, says GEOFF ADAMS.

Greece has a wealth of indigenous varieties – of which Xinomavro, Assyrtiko, Aghiorghitiko, Savatiano, Roditis and Moschofilero are but a small selection – which are fast gaining a reputation that can only grow once consumers are ready to embrace their diversity. Until then, the country’s winemakers have been diligently working with some better-known varietals – French cultivars that are exciting both producers and the international market. ‘Cabernet Sauvignon is a wonderful variety,’ enthuses Evanghelos Gerovassiliou, the Macedonian producer behind great Bordeaux blends made under the guidance of Professor Emile Peynaud at Domaine Carras in the 1970s. ‘Syrah, though, has the best future here as the variety adapts so well to our climate. Greek producers have learned that the two most important factors are humidity and altitude.’

As a Grecophile I need little convincing about the quality of the wine that is at last emerging from the upper echelon of Greek wineries. But for those who need some encouragement, the choice of cellar-worthy wines from the last five excellent vintages (1998 suffered somewhat due to a heatwave during July and August, but some excellent wines were produced nonetheless) and early-drinking wines from the last two should force critics and consumers alike to sit up and take notice. Greek wines can no longer be dismissed as overpriced in comparison with their New World counterparts, with whom they share a certain fruit-driven quality. And, when compared with Old World equivalents, a similar structure becomes apparent. But Greece’s Cabernet Sauvignons, Syrahs, Merlots, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs not only possess quality, they also have a delightful and distinctive terroir character – a feature that some New World competitors seem to lack – that is unmistakably Greek.’Because we have quite a wide variation in climate from north to south, and different altitudes, there are definite regional differences that you can clearly taste,’ reveals Anne Kokotos of Attica’s Domaine G Kokatos.

As much of Greece is so hot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly prospers at altitude, and is at its most successful in semi-mountainous and mountainous regions, where it benefits from a longer ripening period. Greece’s Chardonnay seems to be showing its character best in central and northern areas, where some truly world-beating examples are being made. ‘We’ve seen a lot of very good Syrahs coming through lately from northern Greece. They’re very full bodied, showing a lot of the character of the grape,’ says Kokotos, former president of the Greek Women of Wine. ‘Sauvignon Blanc is also an excellent variety for Greece because it really retains its acidity, which is what gives the wine such wonderful backbone.’ The brilliant ex-Constantin Lazaridi oenologist Vassilis Tsaktsarlis has teamed up with Gerovassiliou to form what must count as one of the most exciting partnerships in Greek winemaking today, combining their skills at the brand new Ktima (Estate) Biblia Chora, which is situated at the foot of Mount Pageon, near Kavala in Macedonia.’Foreign/indigenous blends are also playing a big part in catching the interest of the international consumer,’ explains Tsaktsarlis. ‘These give buyers the typicity of a familiar grape, with the distinctiveness of one that is unique to Greece. Nowhere else in the world will you find blends like these,’ he says.

https://www.decanter.com/wine/grape-varieties/cabernet-sauvignon/

Some truly pioneering work is being done by the giant Boutari company with Greece’s flagship native grape, Xinomavro, in what may be a turning point for the variety. Boutari has just released its latest Naoussa (vintage 2000). New wave in style, it has avoided the astringent tannins – leaving just enough for structure and ageing – that are so characteristic of the variety. As well as increasing fruit levels, the Boutari winemakers have cleverly managed to retain all the wonderful characteristics that make the grape so distinctively Greek. The result makes this variety just as appealing to international consumers as the softer and more rounded Aghiorghitiko.

While distinctiveness is undoubtedly one of Greece’s trump cards, the question of price often arises when discussing the region’s top labels. When I raised the issue with Harris Antoniou of Attica’s Evharis his answer was unequivocal. ‘Bottle for bottle, on a quality-to-price ratio, Greek wines are certainly no more expensive than those produced in the rest of Europe. ‘In general, we are more expensive than our New World counterparts for one very good reason: across the board our grape yield per hectare is far lower than you will find in most New World regions while the average quality of Greek wine is frankly far higher than that of most of the volume-driven labels these countries export. I believe that within the next five to six years the quality of our red wines will hit the level of the top grand cru French wines. I also think that our Syrahs and Merlots have already overtaken France.’When Greece eventually solves its image problem, the sky will be the limit. The general consensus among producers is that, given time, indigenous varieties will secure Greece’s future in the world market, but now that foreign varieties are in place they will always play a significant role in winemaking. And with a new generation of hugely talented young producers who are prepared to use the lure of French bait, Greece should soon succeed in reeling in the international consumer.

https://www.decanter.com/wine/grape-varieties/shiraz-syrah/

Geoff Adams is author of ‘Greek Wines: A Comprehensive Guide’ (£7.99, Winemaster).

Written by GEOFF ADAMS

The brown bears of the Balkans and the wines of northern Greece have both benefited from the energy, vision and passion of Yiannis Boutaris. In 1993, Boutaris founded Arkturos, a sanctuary dedicated to the conservation of the brown bear. The reserve now houses 13 bears and 21 wolves and, as a result, Greece has one of the most important bear populations in Europe. His boost to the wines of his country has been equally welcome, and necessary. Viewed by many as leader of the Greek wine industry, Boutaris split from his brother – and the huge Boutari corporation – in 1996 and set up a new venture with his son Mihalis, who studied at Davis and is tipped by many to be the great new hope for Greek wine. The wines resulting from their efforts, produced under the umbrella of The General Wine Company, are a good illustration of the quality, energy and confidence that can be found now in wineries across the mountainous region. ‘We’ve got the climate and the winemakers; now we just need the markets,’ says Yiannis.

Like many other producers, Boutaris recognises that the Greekness of the wines is both a help and a hindrance. Limited production and the absence of mechanical harvesting mean that these wines will never compete on price with the wines of the New World, and must sell themselves by their unusual indigenous grape varieties. But the image of Greek wine abroad means that the industry must first establish its quality credentials with its interpretations of the familiar international grapes. ‘We want to sell good wine that just happens to be Greek. The Greekness shouldn’t be the identifier,’ he continues. ‘We use the international grapes as passports, but these should be there primarily to complement our native grapes.’

He is frustrated by the entrenched cynicism with which the wines of his country are usually approached. ‘Bad Italian wine is considered better than a good Greek wine. We call it the retsina stigma, and I don’t know if this will ever pass.’ Try the wines produced by the rising stars of this mountainous region, and it’s hard to imagine that these producers will have much difficulty in getting the message across. There’s still a great deal of bad wine made in Macedonia, make no mistake, but the good is very good indeed. This was clear to Oddbins buyer Steve Daniel when he visited the region three years ago and scooped the cream; the high-street chain now has one of the strongest Greek portfolios in the UK, with some 40 wines, and Daniel is a fervent believer that the wines are getting better every year.

‘These wines offer consumers something different; they’re like French or Italian wine, but with more fruit and warmth. We’re not expecting them to take on Chile or Argentina – most of the producers are boutique wineries and aren’t going for the mass market. They don’t want to take on the world, simply to get a presence and to show the world that Greek wine can be excellent. The best

producers have a buoyant domestic market and could sell everything at home easily, but they want international recognition.’The efforts of Yiannis and Mihalis Boutaris mean that the winemaking region of Macedonia is very much the centre of attention. Some 500 miles north of Athens, the Balkan influence is marked up here – the former Yugoslav republic of Macedonia lies just over the mountains. With a continental climate and frequent rainfall, this northerly area has extreme heat in the summer and often bitterly cold winters.

Piedmont of Greece

The grapes that fare best in this harsh climate produce wines with crisp acidity. The main focus is on red wine, usually made from the Xinomavro grape. To earn an appellation in the mainly red producing region of Naoussa, the wine must be 100% Xinomavro; to the east in Goumenissa, this can be softened with Negoska, which lowers Xinomavro’s natural tannins and acidity when vinified together. Xinomavro is a wine lover’s wine, rather than an easy drinking crowd pleaser. With a low colour and flavours of game and sun-dried tomatoes, the grape is often compared with Nebbiolo in its youth, largely due to the high tannin and acidity. The wine improves with barrel ageing, and has the potential to age for between five and twelve years – with time, it takes on a more Burgundian character, with Pinot Noir soft fruit flavours. Red wines generally work better than the rosés made from Xinomavro.’Macedonia is the Piedmont of Greece,’ says Daniel. ‘It’s even similar scenically. We’re seeing a stylistic change now as the best producers get to grips with Xinomavro and learn how to soften it slightly and get the grapes ripe without losing the character. Don’t forget that it’s only in the 1990s that the Piedmontese grasped how to harness and tame Barbaresco and Barolo.’ White wines of note are also emerging from the region, sometimes from Chardonnay but usually from aromatic grape varieties – these work best, adding intense flavours to the streak of acidity always present. Alongside international grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer, the native grape Roditis is widely grown. This is the grape of retsina when grown elsewhere in Greece, on the plains. When grown at altitude in Macedonia, however, Roditis really comes into its own and the resulting wines display concentrated aromatic, fruity flavours.

The big boys

Though most producers in the region are small, with limited production, there are a handful of large companies dominating the landscape. Kostas Lazaridis is one of only two Greek wineries to be publicly listed, and produces the most expensive Greek wine on sale in the UK. Amethystos Cava costs £15 and yet is classified as a table wine under Greek wine law since it is made from Cabernet Sauvignon. With only around 10,000 bottles produced annually, the wine is made from old vines, aged in oak for 18 months and then in bottle for two years. The 1997 vintage, just released, is delicious (see above). The other listed company, and former home of Yiannis, is Boutaris, founded in 1879. With wineries across Greece, this mammoth operation bottles many of its wines at its Stenimachos premises. The wines, varietally labelled, are easy drinking, mostly unexciting and aimed at the mass market. The best are the whites made from aromatic varieties.

Equally large is Tsantalis, a huge, high-profile négociant which led the Greek market for 10 years before deciding to buy vineyards and start growing grapes itself. It now controls about 1,500ha in northern Greece, and owns around 200ha. Though volume driven, the wines Tsantalis produces are of a high standard and represent good value for money. The range focuses on native grapes and includes a new-wave retsina.

Smaller in size

Much smaller in size is The General Wine Company, the company formed by Yiannis and Mihalis Boutaris. The father and son produce outstanding wines at two wineries in northern Greece – reds at Kyr-Yianni and whites at Vergoritis. The 28ha planted at Kyr-Yianni is mostly Xinomavro, with a little Merlot and Syrah. The Merlot is used to give the Xinomavro a more ‘feminine’ side, in the words of Mihalis. The wine is aged in barrel for 12–24 months. ‘We also bottle age the wine for six to 12 months,’ he says, ‘as the Greeks aren’t ready to buy to lay down.’ Further east, beside the vast expanse of water that is Lake Vergoritis, a PortaKabin stands as HQ at the father and son’s latest venture. ‘Good materials and equipment are more important than a glamorous winery,’ shrugs Yiannis. ‘I hate glamorous wineries.’

This cold part of the region lies at 700m altitude and has sandy, silt soil. Yiannis Boutaris explains that they are looking for an expression of terroir, and typically, here, this means spicy. Traditionally a red wine area, the Boutaris have introduced Roditis, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer. The wines being produced here are excellent.

Another small producer making waves in Macedonia is Gerovassilou, based near Thessaloniki airport. Production is limited here as plantings amount to 30ha and no grapes are bought in. The yields are very low for Greece at just 40 hectolitres per hectare (rather than the usual 60–80). Too warm here for Xinomavro, the reds are made from Syrah and Merlot. The whites are excellent, with an emphasis on Malagousia. A 100% Viognier barrel sample also showed huge promise.

Rare commodity

As you’d expect in a region of mostly small producers, there are many excellent wines being made that are nearly impossible to get hold of. One such wine is Chisohoou’s 1998 Special Cuvée, one of the best Xinomavro and Merlot blends made in northern Greece; but only 7,000 bottles are produced annually and Germany is the only export market. Another excellent winery is Aidarinis in Goumenissa. The vineyards are just 5ha, and the winery sells 80% of its wine unbottled. What it does bottle, though, is extremely good, both the red (Xinomavro and Negoska) and Roditis/Sauvignon Blanc blend. None of the 30,000 bottles produced annually are yet exported. If you’re ever in Macedonia…

Xinomavro (red)

2000 Tsantalis Xinomavro

Fresh, appealing style – a good beginner’s Xinomavro. Red fruit and slightly leathery flavours. Fairly sweet tannins, well balanced with acidity. Lean. N/A UK

2000 Boutari Moschofilero

Very pale. Lean, green, grapefruity and melon aromas; slightly perfumed. Aromatic, fresh with bold lemon flavours. Good length.

2000 Kostas Lazaridis, Chateau Julia Assyrtiko

Pale gold, with a peachy hue. Rich, spicy nose. Rich palate with a silky mouthfeel. Spice and apple on palate; dry with lively acidity. £6.45

2000 Tsantalis Athiri

A pale unoaked wine, almost clear. Light, crisp fruity aromas of apples, slight lemon, with a floral edge. Crisp and tangy with good acidity. Fresh and fragrant. N/A UK

2000 Vergoritis Grypas Samaropetra

75% oak-aged Roditis, with Gewurz and Sauvignon making up the rest. Elegant and fragrant nose. Rose petals and spice follow to palate, which also has broader spicy, fat notes. Lively acidity and zingy crispness. N/A UK

1997 Kostas Lazaridis Amethystos Cava

Dark, almost inky, ruby to purple colour with a nose of big, minty ripe black fruit and coffee. Full bodied and juicy, with a smokey flavour, sweetish but firm tannins, and spice. £14.99

1997 Tsantalis Metoxi

Jammy, leathery black fruit on the nose, with a touch of cedar. Soft and elegant on the palate, with black cherry bitterness. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Limnio. £7.49

1997 Kyr-Yianni Syrah

Complex, delicate fruity nose. Good balance of fruit and spice on the palate, with a real bite to it. £8.99

1999 babatzim merlot

Deep ruby-purple. Very ripe black fruit and vanilla nose. Fruity and well structured, with a herby, long finish. Excellent Merlot. £8 approx