For Austrians and Germans, and a great number of the people who live there, it is the ‘Südtirol’ – the southern province of the Tyrol.

For Italians, it is the ‘Alto Adige’, the Upper Valley of the river Adige.

This bilingual province on the border with Austria is a meeting place of cultures created by the twists and turns of history.

What is now the Trentino-Alto Adige region spent more of the last 200 years of its history under Austrian rule than Italian, and it was only after the defeat of the Austrio-Hungarian Empire in WWI that it was incorporated into Italy.

Not least of the influences of its cultural heritage regard the wine production of this fascinating border area.

Grapes of northern European origin grow alongside international and local varieties; barriques coexist with giant casks with elaborate carved heads; and in many cellars the chief winemaker still retains the title of ‘Kellermeister’.

The wine growing areas of the Alto Adige stretch north from the border with the neighbouring Trentino in the shape of a letter ‘Y’.

The lower part, the Bassa Atesina, follows the valley of the Adige to Bolzano, where viticulture branches northeast into the Isarco Valley towards Bressanone, and northwest past Merano, into the Venosta Valley.

Jigsaw puzzle

The umbrella Alto Adige DOC covers all 5,850 hectares of the province, with important DOC sub-zones for Terlano, Santa Maddalena, Valle Isarco and Val Venosta, while the pale red wines of Caldaro/Kaltersee have a denomination all of their own.

Vineyards stretch from around 250 metres above sea level to the upper slopes of the valley sides, reaching elevations of over 1,000 metres above-sea-level in places.

The climate is sunny, and warmer than you might expect – July temperatures are higher in Bolzano than Palermo! – but with the extreme day/night excursions typical of mountain regions.

The soil map of the province is a highly-coloured jigsaw puzzle which defies close description, but the three basic types are the Dolomitic limestone of the Adige valley, soils of volcanic origin around Bolzano, and the coarse, sandy quartz, slate and mica of weathered native rock in the Isarco and Venosta valleys.

Twenty varieties

Alto Adige grows 20 DOC-recognised varieties, 11 white and five red.

The principle international white grapes, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, are distributed pretty much across the whole of the province, with characters which respond to the different terroirs.

Pinot Bianco/ Weissburgunder

Of all the international varieties, Pinot Bianco is the one most closely associated with the Alto Adige.

It can be soft and round with yellow apple and floral aromas on the lower slopes of the Bassa Atesina, and intensely dry and minerally in the high vineyards of Appiano and at Terlano, the top two villages for the variety.

Sauvignon Blanc

Similarly, Sauvignon can be rich and fleshy around Caldaro, and crisp and zingy at Cortaccia and in the Val Venosta.

Gewürztraminer

Of the aromatic varieties, Gewürztraminer does not move far from its home in the village of Tramin, where styles range from off-dry to full-on sweet and luscious.

Sylvaner

In the Valle Isarco, Sylvaner has body and richness of aroma which distance it from the more familiar, lighter styles of Alsace.

Grüner Veltliner

Also in the Valle Isarco, Grüner Veltliner has the power and ageing potential of its top Austrian counterparts, and there is also a tiny production of the appetisingly peachy Schiave/ Riesling crossing, Kerner.

Riesling

Val Venosta is the go-to destination for steely, refined Riesling in Alto Adige.

Pinot Noir/ Blauburgunder

Among the international red varieties, there are individual examples of imposing Cabernet and Merlot in the lower valley of the Adige, but it is the far more widely planted Pinot Noir/ Blauburgunder that has made its name in the province for wines with very pure varietal character.

The longest established sites are on the eastern slopes of the valley, which include the renowned vineyards of Mazon.

The local Vernatsch/ Schiava and Lagrein may come second behind Pinot Noir in terms of surface area under vine, but they are two of the great resources of the province and both give their best in specific sites.

Vernatsch/ Schiava

Vernatsch is the grape of the Kaltersee/ Caldaro DOC, where it makes delicious cherry- and violet-scented wines with a delicate almondy finish.

The other classic growing area is above Bolzano at Santa Maddalena. The wines here often have a dollop of Lagrein in the blend, which makes them a little darker and more structured than those of Caldaro; think Moulin-a-Vent, not so much for the aromatic profile but for style and drinkability.

Lagrein

Lagrein, on the other hand, is a much more robust proposition.

Its family tree includes Teroldego and Syrah, and it shows in the inky, glass-staining colour and chunky tannins.

Lagrein needs heat and well-drained soils, and its traditional home is just outside Bolzano, in the garden suburb of Gries.

Reinvention

The Alto Adige has a tradition of cooperative winemaking that goes back to the 19th century. Its 12 top quality, highly efficient cooperatives collect grapes from 4,800 small-scale growers and today account for around 70% of the provincial production.

The remaining 30% is made by long established private houses and in lesser – but increasing – amounts by small independent estates. Membership of the ‘Vignaioli Alto Adige’ association which represents the category has grown to over 100 in recent years.

Winemaking in the Alto Adige has seen perhaps the most radical transformation of any region in Italy. The province today is universally recognised for the white wines which constitute 65% of its production, but historically red wines dominated.

Up until the 1970s, Vernatsch occupied almost 70% of the total surface area and monopolised planting in the villages of the Bassa Atesina.

Vineyards were heavily cropped, much of the wine was sold in bulk, and although the arrival of the DOC in 1975 improved quality, the wines of the time were light and very simple.

Change began in the 1980s, and in the years that followed the Alto Adige basically reinvented itself. The drivers of the revolution were the cooperatives.

Legendary Kellermeisters like Hans Terzer at San Michele, Sebastian Stocker at Terlano, and Willi Sturz at Tramin began to impose quality in the vineyards and craft premium wines in the cellar, the likes of which had never been seen in the province before.

The quality of winemaking across the province today is high, although at times you feel it risks overshadowing the sense of place.

Many of the top selections are concentrated, full-bodied wines with bold fruit and aromas which owe more than a glance towards international styles.

Clarification or complication?

The Alto Adige’s newly revealed UGA (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive) zoning, which comes into effect with the 2024 vintage, aims to put the focus back on terroir and give some order to the ampelographical wealth and diversity by designating sites for specific grapes varieties.

The Mazon UGA, for example, is reserved for Pinot Noir; Gries-Moritzing for Lagrein; and UGAs at over 900 metres above-sea-level at Appiano and Magrè are created for Muller Thurgau.

In other instances, the system is a victim of the province’s eclectic traditions. There are cases where up to five white, red and aromatic varieties share the same UGA.

It is hard to imagine that grapes with such different characters can express the identity of a terroir.

Time will tell, as the wines come out over the next two years, whether the 86 new UGAs will clarify or further complicate the task of grasping the intricacies of the Alto Adige.

However it unfolds, there will always be much to enjoy in this bountiful province.

Below is a selection of two-dozen of my top wines from the current vintages tasted at the Alto Adige Wine Summit held in Bolzano in September this year.

Pinot Bianco was the star among the white varieties, but Sauvignon is right up there too, and I also loved Sylvaner from the Valle Isarco.

As for the reds, there was Pinot Noir for ageing, Santa Maddalena and Caldaro for drinkability, and if you are looking for something weightier, Lagrein wins the medals as the authentic Alto Adige red wine experience.

Expert-rated Alto Adige: 24 to try

Related articles

• Alto Adige for wine lovers
• Valle d’Aosta – the soulful Italian region aficionados shouldn’t overlook
• Expert’s Choice: 18 Swiss reds and whites you need to try

The Wachau region along the Danube valley is surely one of Europe’s unforgettable stretches of vineyard, alongside the Mosel in Germany and Douro in Portugal.

Most of the vineyards are very steep, and terraced within stone walls so as to benefit from maximum exposure to sunlight.

The vines are largely planted on the north side of the river and thus face south, but in a few villages across the river a handful of vineyards thrive where the river sinuously turns into the sunlight.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for wines from some of the Wachau’s leading producers

The soils in the Wachau are primary volcanic rock such as gneiss, which distinguishes them from the loess-dominated vineyards to the east along the Danube valley.

This accounts for the steely minerality of the wines, in contrast to the more opulent styles found in its neighbours to the east in the Kremstal and Kamptal.

However, on the lower sites one can also find gravel, sand, loess, and marine deposits, all better suited to Grüner Veltliner than Riesling.

Mineral grandeur

If today the Wachau is most renowned for those two varieties, it was not always thus. Fifty years ago one could encounter other varieties such as Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Neuburger, although these have mostly vanished.

They could produce excellent wines, but they rarely rivalled the intensity and grandeur of the two dominant grapes.

Such is the mineral dimension of the wines that I often find it hard to identify which of the two varieties I am tasting, especially when the source is a high elevation vineyard.

The Wachau has also benefited from its human dimension. There were a handful of producers of the highest quality – the wines from FX Pichler, Franz Hirtzberger, Prager, and Knoll, among others, are legends both within and beyond Austria.

But there was also a cooperative, the Freier Weingärtner, blessed with many outstanding sites, that also made great wines. Today it has been renamed as Domäne Wachau.

Individual styles

The wines have never been uniform in style. The influence of the river below, as well as the fact that the harvest was generally very late in the autumn, often into November, mean that botrytis could attack the grapes in damper vintages.

Some producers just accepted this as the vintage character, resulting in wines with a broader, more succulent profile (and often a few grams of residual sugar).

Other growers, such as Rudi Pichler, did everything possible to keep the grapes free of infection so as to preserve a purer, racier style.

There is no right or wrong here; just different approaches. Producers that tolerate some botrytis, and the 4-8 ensuing grams of residual sugar, generally ensure that any detectable sweetness is balanced by high acidity.

Overall, however, the wines seem more pristine and elegant than they were, say, 15 years ago. In part this is a vintage character, as in 2021 and 2022, but also a growing reluctance to pick later than necessary.

‘Most growers,’ says Emmerich Knoll Jr., ‘accept that if the fruit is ripe and healthy, then there is little to be gained by delaying the harvest.’

Grapes and lizards

In so many wine regions the growers love nothing better than to carp and quarrel, but not here, where in 1983 the great estates teamed up to create the Vinea Wachau association.

This established various ground rules focusing on maintaining quality (forbidding chaptalisation or mechanical concentration, and banning wood chips or tannin powder), but also created a kind of hierarchy based on ripeness levels at harvest.

The most basic wines were the simple, fresh Steinfeders; mid-tier wines with a bit more structure and around 12% alcohol were called Federspiel.

Meanwhile, the grandest and most long-lived wines, with alcohols ranging from 12.5% to 14.5%, were called Smaragd, referring to a local lizard encountered on the sun-baked terraces high above the river.

Today, however, Steinfeder is heading for extinction, as global warming makes that crisp uncomplicated style difficult to achieve.

Quality over ripeness

There is also a band of producers (the most renowned being Lucas Pichler of FX Pichler) that have left Vinea Wachau and thus opted out of the hierarchy.

They argue that it no longer makes sense to strive for maximum ripeness as a criterion of quality, especially if it comes at the expense of finesse.

Pichler also wants to be able to use some small oak barrels in addition to the large casks traditional to the region.

But few are following in his footsteps. Many regret the defections, but accept that in a small region with considerable competition between producers, it’s inevitable that some estates will seek to establish their own identity.

At the same time the Wachau growers agreed from 2020 to integrate the countrywide DAC system, which identifies and promotes the most typical grape variety and style of each region, such as Grüner Veltliner for the Weinviertel.

Since the Wachau already has its own classification, it didn’t make sense to many to abandon it in favour of the catch-all DAC.

Single-vineyard wines must be from the two main varieties; other varieties must be labelled as village wines. And there is no Reserve category in the Wachau.

Nothing here is controversial, and there has been no outcry from consumers. Of greater significance, according to Knoll, is the growers’ almost universal acceptance since 2023 of the criteria for sustainable farming and production promoted by ‘Sustainable Austria’.

Winning combinations

The Wachau remains the source of some of Europe’s greatest white wines.

Wines from the top sites – Kellerberg, Loibenberg, Schütt, and Steinertal to the warmer west; Singerriedel from the cooler east; and Achleiten, Klaus, Kollmütz, and Hochrain midway along the valley – have stood the test of time.

Although global warming and the need for irrigation may affect the character of some wines, the Wachau’s overall reputation is unlikely to be eclipsed.

This is due to a winning combination of factors: great vineyards, a range of elevations, a panoply of primary-rock soils, a general consensus on what constitutes an ideal expression of vineyard and wine variety, and a growing band of first-rate producers.

Leading producers in the Wachau

FX Pichler

This is probably the Wachau’s most celebrated estate. Based in Oberloiben, Franz Pichler practised the quality-oriented principles of Vinea Wachau years before the group was founded.

Since his retirement his son Lucas continues to maintain the highest standards. These are powerful wines, with great structure and longevity.

In the past some bottlings, often called ‘M’ for Monumental, were too forceful and alcoholic for some tastes, though they often met with great critical acclaim.

Nikolaihof

This estate, based in Mautern on the outskirts of Krems, has been unashamedly biodynamic for over 50 years.

The Saahs family have their own style, with some wines aged for around 10 years in casks before bottling.

They also tend to release their wines later than their neighbours, which is why they are not included in the list of recommended wines, which are all from the 2022 vintage.

The Nikolaihof wines are always modest in alcohol but never lack body, and can have remarkable longevity.

Domäne Wachau

This substantial cooperative, sourcing grapes from over 400 hectares, is a model of its kind.

The technical director, Heinz Frischengruber, works closely with the growers to maintain high viticultural standards, and a third of the vineyards are now farmed organically.

The cooperative produces a wide range of classic Wachau wines, but diverts its clientele with experimental bottlings aged in amphorae and even in marble tanks.

Prices are modest for the quality, so it’s worth opting for wines from top sites such as Achleiten.

Frischengruber

Heinz Frischengruber’s day job is at the Domäne Wachau, but his son Georg now runs the family property in Rossatz on the right bank of the Danube, across from the more celebrated wine village of Dürnstein.

The terraced vineyards are mostly on primary rock, with some loess lower down. They demonstrate that the right locations here can deliver wines of typicity and precision.

Grabenwerkstatt

Wachau native Franz Hofbauer and German Michael Linke met when working at Pyramid Valley in New Zealand.

In 2014 they created Grabenwerkstatt, sourcing grapes from a few hectares of mostly old vineyards in the decidedly cool Spitzer Graben.

They work by hand and don’t even own a tractor. They follow biodynamic principles and practise minimal intervention, creating small quantities of wine with great purity of fruit.

Top picks from the Wachau

Related articles

• In search of Austria’s greatest vineyards
• Assessing the ageing potential of Grüner Veltliner
• Austrian wines for summer

Christopher Sealy is a sommelier, wine educator and occasional wine writer, based in Toronto. He was the recipient of the first ever Toronto Michelin Guide Sommelier Award in 2022, as wine director for Alo Food Group restaurants. In between frequent wine travel and wine service, Christopher can be found at the Saturday morning farmers’ market, spinning vinyl at a local wine bar, sipping fresh low-intervention wines, or in a coffee shop planning his next wine collaboration.

I first met Grüner Veltliner perhaps a decade ago, or more. I had scheduled a tasting with an agent who was touring my home town of Toronto with an Austrian wine producer – it was an unexpected encounter with the Grüner Veltliner grape: I was shy and caught off-guard. The Grüner shimmered with an emerald hue, was charming, nuanced, vibrantly fresh and complex at the same time.

I was intrigued. I became enamoured. I wanted to get to know Grüner wines in all their forms and fashions. To this day our relationship can be described as one big love affair.

My first visit to see Grüner Veltliner on its home soil was in the company of the wine-grower Fred Loimer, who is located in the Kamptal wine region in the Danube area of Lower Austria, Niederösterreich. The Kamp is one of the many tributaries that carve channels across the land, making way for the warm easterly breeze of the Pannonian Basin to enter and clash with the cool winds of the Atlantic descending from the north and west. Beautiful climates of tension allow for Grüner to be fashioned into some of the most dynamic wines I have ever tasted.

I have learned that, yes, Grüner can be styled into elegant and classic wines. Yet with a more raw, lower-interventionist/biodynamic approach, Grüner is capable of reaching indescribable heights of taste and delight. Austria is abundant in biodynamic wines.

Over the years, I’ve been able to explore Grüner’s native lands further, spending time in the cool, westerly, terraced vineyards of the Wachau where Grüner displays a crystalline and mineral side; like sunlight in winter. All the way east above Vienna to the rolling hills and valleys of a Sound-of-Music landscape that is the Weinviertel. Here a multitude of expressions of Grüner can be found, from sensual skin-contact wines to acacia-scented, spicy, peppery expressions. In between, there are the regions – no less in significance – of Kremstal, Traisental and Wagram, which all offer various other identities of Grüner.

When all you need is comfort at the table, Grüner easily takes the place of Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño or Muscadet – even Chardonnay in many instances. With any dish featuring or scented with asparagus, anise, fennel, cucumber, over a crudo, lake or ocean fish, Grüner is harmonious. With serious cuts of veal, pork, roast cauliflower or Brussels sprouts, meanwhile, enjoy a ‘reserve’ level or grand cru 1ÖTW (Austria’s equivalent of the German Grosses Gewächs) expression of Grüner.

Good Grüner is irresistible, great Grüner is divine. Most Grüner is already styled and fashioned to a high degree. It’s just in its DNA. Take more than a sip and fall into a wonderful love affair.

Discover Grüner Veltliner: Sealy’s three to try

For those who love ‘classic’ styles, try any of the many expressions of Fred Loimer, particularly his Ried Spiegel 1ÖTW, Langenlois, Kamptal. This is a wine for the cellar, reflective of time and space that shepherds the energy of soil and environment towards centre stage, like the skilled conductor of the Vienna Symphony Orchestra.

For those who may have explored Grüner at their local natural wine bar, try Weingut Shödl’s Grün, Grün, Grüner, Weinviertel 2022 (£28.50-£33 Modal Wines, Wayward Wines), for an expression of raw clarity. No funk, just enough edge with a peppered playfulness, and delight that keeps you coming back for more. As a food pairing option, this low-intervention wine works wonders.

Weingut Prager is an icon of the Wachau, crafting wines of Klimt-esque divinity. Whatever you see in a Klimt painting, I am sure you will find in a bottle of any terroir-driven wine from Prager. There is no comparison for wines like this. It is difficult to pick one particular bottling, but I would recommend many.

Related articles

• In search of Austria’s greatest vineyards plus 12 wines to try
• Austrian Grüner Veltliner: Top wines from 2019, 2020 and 2021
• Assessing the ageing potential of Austrian Grüner Veltliner

The region’s vintners welcomed the 2021 vintage after what was a cataclysmic year in 2020, marred by wildfire smoke. The heat dome phenomenon was the signature event of the growing season. Yet, as in the Willamette Valley further to the north, it occurred early enough in the summer not to impact the vintage’s final wines. Yields were below average, and the dry conditions marked the beginning of a drought that is still ongoing in this part of Oregon.

Overall, the wines from 2021 in Southern Oregon are riper in style, and the white wines show brilliant balance. While many of the red wines have yet to be released, they are tending towards opulence and ripeness overall.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 21 top wines from Southern Oregon in 2021

Warm but not hot

‘The 2021 growing season started somewhat inauspiciously in the Applegate Valley,’ said Nate Wall, winemaker for biodynamic Troon Vineyard. ‘We had a cool March, which ended with a late April spring frost. We prune our vines quite late, at the very end of winter, in an attempt to delay bud break for this exact reason.’

‘The good news here was the cooler spring also delayed bud break in most varieties,’ Wall continued. ‘There were only a handful of vines susceptible to the effects of the frost when it occurred. We had a much drier than normal spring, leading to a slightly drier than normal summer. This really kept disease pressure low, so we could slightly back off on our already minimal organic spray program.’

‘The vintage was one of the five warmest on record in the region,’ commented climatologist and owner of Abacela winery, Dr Greg Jones. ‘It was also very dry, starting the slide into drought conditions we have seen over the past couple of years, and that continues today.’

‘The major weather event of the 2021 vintage came over three days in late June. A heat dome over British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest,’ Jones continued. ‘All-time temperature records were broken by 5-10 degrees. Weather stations throughout Southern Oregon broke records during this time as well, with temperatures reaching 45-47°C.

‘Fortunately, the plant growth and fruit development stages at the time [post-flowering] were such that there was not as much damage to the vines or developing berries as anticipated. Plus, growers were well aware of the coming heat wave from forecasts and used irrigation to hydrate the vines during the event.’

The growing season settled in nicely after the heat dome with steady, somewhat cooler temperatures than average in Southern Oregon.

‘From mid-August until late September, the weather was steady and seasonal, with an average high of 28° C and no major heat spikes. Weather during harvest was dry and allowed for the picking of clean fruit of excellent quality. We saw moderate alcohol levels and good acidity overall,’ Brian Gruber of Irvine & Roberts Vineyards reports.

The resulting wines

‘The conditions of 2021 resulted in slightly more hedonistic wines,’ Wall reported. ‘That cooler summer allowed for really nice ripening, so we had these ripe, concentrated fruit flavours with more approachable tannins. This was due to more phenolic ripeness and slightly less whole cluster tannin.’

‘So the wines, on the whole, have been very well received. I am not sure if there will be a slight sacrifice to the long-term ageability of these wines because of this amalgamation of factors – time will tell.’

Southern Oregon 2021: Top-wines tasted

Related articles

Oregon’s Willamette Valley 2021: Vintage report and top-scoring wines

Willamette Valley rising stars: eight names to know

Corollary unveils plans to become Oregon’s first exclusively sparkling wine production estate

Since Slovakia gained independence in 1993, the last two decades have seen the nation’s wine industry endure a period of changes and rejuvenation. With renewed wine regulations to embrace the European market and a new generation of winemakers, this small-but-diverse wine nation is now producing an exciting array of wines made using international and traditional varieties, waiting to be discovered.

The regions

Slovakia as a whole has a typical continental climate with temperature extremes in summer and winter. Due to the nation’s proximity to the northern limit for commercial viticulture (latitude between 48-49°N), the majority of its wine growing regions are located in the warmer southwest and along its southern border, planted with cool-climate grape varieties.

The Small Carpathians (Lesser Carpathians / Malokarpatská)

The Small Carpathians is the oldest wine region in Slovakia, encompassing 12 viticultural areas and 120 viticultural communes. Close to the Austrian border in the southwest, the vineyards are mainly found on the southwest, south and southeast-facing slopes of the Small Carpathians mountain range.

Benefiting from sufficient sunshine, well-drained sandy loam and rocky soils, in addition to abundant aeration, the Small Carpathians region now hosts nearly half of the nation’s wine producers.

A ‘Wine Route’ is drawn by the locals from the capital Bratislava and extends east along the vineyards on the rolling hills, attracting wine lovers to explore the viticultural centre of Slovakia.

Veltlinske Zelené (Grüner Veltliner) is the most widely planted variety here, followed by Rizling Vlašský (Welschriesling). Frankovka Modrá (Blaufränkisch) and Svätovavrinecké (St. Laurent) are among the most important red varieties.

South Slovakia (Južnoslovenská)

Located in the lowlands north of the Danube (which also serves as the Slovak-Hungarian border), the region has eight viticultural areas and 114 villages. Vineyards are found on the clay-rich plains and for the newer plantings, on the loess-rich uplands and alluvial terraces by the riverside.

This is the warmest Slovak region with an effective accumulated temperature (EAT) of over 3400°C during the growing season (higher than all other regions) and 2,200 hours of sunshine per year.

While white grapes such as Veltlinske Zelené and Rizling Vlašský are among the most planted varieties, Frankovka Modrá, Pinot Noir and late-ripening grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon are also cultivated here.

Nitra (Nitrianska)

Located east of the Small Carpathians, the Nitra wine region hosts a wealth of diverse microclimates. With nine viticultural areas and 159 wine-planting villages, the vineyards are found on south-facing slopes and plains, featuring varied altitudes, soils and orientations. It’s generally colder in the hilly north and warmer towards the Danube Lowlands in the south.

Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Müller-Thurgau and Frankovka Modrá produced from higher altitudes tend to yield higher levels of acidity. Veltlinske Zelené, Rizling Vlašský and Svätovavrinecké are also widely seen. Thanks to its dry and long autumn, the region also produces ice wine (when frost arrives in time) and straw wines.

Central Slovakia (Stredoslovenská)

With vineyards scattered along the Ipeľ (or Ipoly) river towards the Cerová Highlands, the Central Slovakia wine region includes seven viticultural areas and 107 villages. The region contains diverse terrain and soils: sandstone, loam, clay and volcanic soils in the hilly northwest. The region’s arid and cold climate enables sustainable viticulture. Aromatic whites such as Riesling, Traminer and the indigenous Devín are showing potential.

East Slovakia (Východoslovenská)

Situated along the southeastern border of Slovakia, the Eastern Slovakia region is home to four viticultural areas and 89 wine-planting villages. This is a sunny, dry region with volcanic soils, producing successful wines from the Pinot family. Besides Rizling Vlašský and Müller-Thurgau, red wines made from Frankovka Modrá and the indigenous Dunaj grape are also exciting to explore.

Tokaj (Tokajská)

The Slovak Tokaj, which borders its renowned Hungarian counterpart, is small but crucial to the quality claim of Slovak wines. This is a ‘closed’ wine region that requires wines to be made using locally-sourced grapes and bottled within the seven viticultural villages.

As is the case for its Hungarian neighbour, the Slovak Tokaj area is known for its lusciously sweet wines made by infusing base wine with noble rot berries. Warm summers and long, dry autumns combined with morning fogs enable the onset of botrytis.

The local producers learnt from Hungarian production laws and restructured their own regulations in the early 2000s. The Slovak version of ‘Tokajský’ wine is also made mainly from Furmint, Lipovina (Hárslevelű) and Muškát Žltý (Muscat). Three and four Putňový wines (equivalent to ‘Puttonyos’), which are quality grades already abolished in Hungarian Tokaj, are still made here.

Indigenous grapes: Four to know

Alibernet (Oděskij Čornyj)

A cross of red varieties Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon obtained in 1948 by researchers at the Tairov centre in Odessa. Deeply pigmented, it is a late-ripening variety thus more at home in the warmer Slovak regions. When picked at low yields and full ripeness, it produces wines with rich dark fruit flavours, robust tannins and fresh acidity. Barrel ageing helps to tame the harsh tannins.

Dunaj

‘Dunaj’ is the Slovak name for the river Danube. It was created by Slovak researchers Dorota Pospíšilová and Ondrej Korpás in the 1950s (registered in 1997). The scientists bred the variety by first crossing Muscat Bouschet and Blauer Portugieser, then with St. Laurent. It’s relatively resistant to frost, thanks to early bud-break, and it ripens early, therefore it’s believed to be suitable for the cool climate of most Slovak wine regions. Dark in colour, it’s capable of producing wines with plummy dark fruits and structured tannins, suitable for barrel ageing.

André

A dark-coloured red grape developed by the ŠSV research centre in Velké Pavlovice, Moravia of the Czech Republic. It was named in honour of natural scientist Christian Carl André (1763-1831), who founded one of the world’s first fruit and vine breeding associations in Brno, Moravia. The variety itself is a cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. It’s a late-ripening grape and therefore needs sufficient warmth to achieve full ripeness. The wine features black fruit flavours with a herbal hint, high tannins and high acidity. It needs time in the barrel and bottle to smooth out its rough edges.

Devín

A white variety widely seen in Slovak wine regions except for Tokaj. It is a cross between Gewürztraminer and Roter Veltliner, developed in 1958 in Bratislava. The grape can accumulate relatively high levels of sugar towards harvest, featuring tropical, exotic fruit flavours and sweet spices.

Wines from Slovakia: 12 to try

Related articles

• Assessing the ageing potential of Austrian Grüner Veltliner
• The ageing potential of Furmint in Tokaj
• Wines of the Balkans – five things to know

International judges invited to far-flung wine competitions are expected to bring an interesting bottle to share with the other judges. So in Australia one year I brought a Grüner Veltliner from Jurtschitsch in the Kamptal that was over thirty years old. It had been given to me by the producer a year earlier. I poured it blind. None of the judges could identify the variety, and they all gasped with disbelief when I revealed the vintage.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 ageworthy Grüner Veltliner wines

This anecdotal evidence should not be taken as proof that Grüner Veltliner is invariably a long-lived variety. Much of it is intended to be enjoyed young and has no pretensions to grandeur. Yet some producers in Lower Austria have assured me that on certain soils types and microclimates Grüner Veltliner can age in bottle better than Riesling. I haven’t had a large enough statistical sample to know whether this is so, but I have tasted many venerable Grüner Veltliners that remain in good shape.

Old isn’t necessarily better. To be worth cellaring, a wine needs to be capable of evolving in an interesting way, either aromatically or on the palate – or both. That is not always true of Grüner Veltliner. I would consider cellaring a Grüner Veltliner from a top producer and a top site in the Wachau or Kremstal, but I would think twice about putting away a basic wine from the Weinviertel. Better to drink a wine for its youthful fruit, than in its leaden or oxidising old age.

Residual sugar

An exception probably has to be made for a wine with residual sugar. Sweet Rieslings, to be sure, can age magnificently, but Grüner Veltliner is mostly vinified as a dry wine. Unlike Riesling, it does not easily succumb to botrytis, though it does happen in certain vintages in the Wachau. For a dry Grüner Veltliner to age it needs extract and concentration and balance rather than sweetness.

Luck and good cellaring conditions may play a role too. Long ago a producer in the Kremstal fished out a wine from the 1970s from a stash of older bottles in his cellar. He chose it more or less at random, and opened it without any great expectations. Nor was it a great wine: but it was fully alive and enjoyable after about 25 years in a cool cellar. The producer was surprised too. ‘You have to remember,’ he told me, ‘that back in the 1970s the yields would have been much higher than today, that this wine was not sourced from a renowned vineyard, and that the vinification would have been more slapdash than it would be today. But it’s still fresh and drinkable!’

Bottle ageing doesn’t usually produce startling changes in the wine. Mature Grüner Veltliner can take on nutty or smoky aromas, but in many cases what is striking is that the wine retains its fruit and expressiveness without taking on the characteristics of an old wine. That is why my co-tasters in Australia were so surprised by that venerable but still youthful Jurtschitsch wine.

So is Grüner Veltliner worthy of lengthy cellaring? The answer is yes, but only if certain conditions are met: the wine should be from an estate with a proven track record, and the site (such as Kellerberg or Achleiten in the Wachau, or Lamm in the Kamptal) should be renowned for the variety. In such cases bottle age should, with luck, reveal more complex aromas and a more nuanced minerality.

Ageworthy Grüner Veltliner: Stephen Brook’s top 10 wines

Related content

Austrian Grüner Veltliner: top wines from 2019, 2020 and 2021

Schloss Gobelsburg: Tasting five decades of Heiligenstein Riesling

Austrian indigenous grape: Zierfandler

Selecting the finest vineyard sites is a fraught matter in any country, and Austria is no exception. Owners of specific sites are understandably keen to have them validated; other owners have less of a vested interest. Moreover, in some areas, precise boundaries between vineyards have sometimes been difficult to pin down, and some vineyards, such as Gaisberg in Kamptal, belong to more than one village.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 12 top white wine picks from Lower Austria

Despite all this, the growers’ association called the Oesterreichische Traditionsweingüter (Austrian traditional wine estates) has – off its own bat – created a selection of what its members consider the finest vineyards (Rieden) in Lower Austria. The association has no official standing, but is widely respected and few would quarrel with its choice of some 90 sites as Erste Lagen (first growths).

Not many are household names, but the same might well be true of the premier cru vineyards of Santenay or St Aubin. As with the official DAC classification, only traditional varieties win the association’s seal of approval for each site.

There is one serious flaw in the Erste Lage classification: the Wachau, arguably Austria’s most prestigious wine region, is not included, as Wachau growers have their own growers’ association, Vinea Wachau. And by definition, regions outside Lower Austria, such as the Burgenland and Styria, are excluded.

Nonetheless, there is widespread agreement about which vineyards repeatedly deliver outstanding results. The selection below cannot be definitive, as it is dependent on other factors such as the competence of owners.

Wachau

Achleiten (22 ha): For Heinz Frischengruber, technical director of the fine cooperative Domäne Wachau, this is the greatest vineyard in all of Austria. That may be hyperbole, but many would agree that it’s the top site of the Wachau.

It lies within the village of Weissenkirchen. Its soils, with mica schist lower down and gneiss higher up, as well as patches of loess and limestone, generate highly mineral wines that are exceptionally pungent and expressive. Elevation is an important factor, as it ranges from 200 to 360 metres, all on terraces with very little topsoil.

Most of the terraces, which enjoy excellent ventilation, face south and southwest. Both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are structured and long-lived, though Toni Bodenstein of the Prager estate describes them as relatively feminine.

Kellerberg (15 ha): The Wachau is not immune from global warming, and some growers fear that certain esteemed sites, such as Loibenberg, are now becoming too hot for ideal ripening. Vineyards in Spitz, the most westerly and coolest village, are consequently becoming more prized. Nonetheless, certain traditionally renowned vineyards have maintained their reputation.

Dürnsteiner Kellerberg is one example. The sandy loess topsoil is a bit deeper than that of Achleiten, but not far from the surface there’s primary rock, with gneiss and quartz.

Kellerberg produces powerful wines, but a side valley brings in cooler air to refresh the vines.

Kamptal

Zöbinger Heiligenstein (35 ha): If Achleiten is Austria’s most revered vineyard, then Heiligenstein is surely its best known. It rises loftily above surrounding vineyards, which have mostly loam and loess soils, and offers a more complex soil profile. The elevation ranges from 240 to 350 metres, and the technical name for its geological structure is ‘perm’, a mind of brittle volcanic sandstone and feldspar.

This bedrock is sufficiently fissured to allow roots to descend in search of nutrients. South-facing, it’s a very warm location, but cool winds from the north help to maintain acidity. The vineyards are terraced and this is one of the few spots in the Kamptal where Riesling reigns supreme.

Heiligenstein is a large site, with over a dozen proprietors. So quality is not always that consistent, but the owners include some of Austria’s most illustrious names: Bründlmayer, Gobelsburg, Jurtschitsch, Hirsch, and Loimer. Bründlmayer actually produces three different Rieslings from here.

Given its size and the diversity of producers, it’s hard to generalise about flavour profiles, but Heiligenstein Riesling often displays a pronounced citric character and the wines can be very long-lived, rivalling the top growths of the Wachau.

Kammerner Lamm (25 ha): Lamm is situated on the southeastern flank of Heiligenstein, and is largely composed of the loam and loess that are absent from its neighbour, although the highest sector has some sandstone too. It offers a completely different expression of Kamptal terroir. For a start, it is planted solely with Grüner Veltliner, and its lower elevation, up to 280 metres, means that the site is exceptionally warm. That warmth is mitigated by excellent ventilation. In the 1990s, when super-rich wines were in vigour, it was not uncommon to encounter Lamm wines with over 15% alcohol.

Fortunately, today’s wines show more restraint and elegance. Nonetheless, these are broad-shouldered wines with considerable power, but the best of them age well too.

Here too there are multiple owners. Bründlmayer and Gobelsburg are the best known, but excellent wines are also produced by Eichinger, Jurtschitsch, and Hirsch.

Kremstal

This is the most diverse Lower Austrian region in terms of its geological makeup. Most of the vineyards are calcareous, but may also contain deep beds of loess near or below the surface. The same applies to the flatter vineyards on the south side of the Danube. Sites close to the river may also contain a significant proportion of gravel. However, just west of Krems itself, behind the adjoining town of Stein, are steeply terraced sites of primary rock, often gneiss or mica, that resemble the vineyards of the Wachau, which they border.

In addition, around Senftenberg, well away from the river, is a group of dramatic and steep terraced vineyards. Here there may be patches of loam and loess, but the sites are dominated by primary rock that often lies close to the surface.

Hochäcker (14 ha): This medium-sized terraced vineyard is in the village of Senftenberg and is the upward extension of another well-known suite, Pellingen. It was first documented in 1425. Some years ago Hochäcker was not that esteemed, because of its cold and windy microclimate, since the elevation rises to 380 metres. But with global warming, those very conditions are seen as advantageous.

The wild landscape here protects an abundance of flora and fauna which provide Hockäcker with its biodiversity. The wines are very concentrated and mineral, with exemplary finesse and good ageing potential. The weathered soil is rich in iron and gneiss, making it ideal for Riesling. There are two principal proprietors: Proidl and Nigl.

Vienna

Until recently the over 600 hectares of vineyards within the capital’s city limits were not that highly regarded, as most of the grapes were used to supply the numerous Heurigen, or wine inns, in villages such as Grinzing, Heiligenstadt, and Neustift. Most of those who flocked to the Heurigen were more interested in quantity than quality, so standards were not especially high, although the top wineries, such as Wieninger and Mayer, have always sold their best wines in bottle, and not just in Vienna.

The most famous vineyard, overlooking the city’s most bucolic suburbs, is the Nussberg, but it’s a very large site that isn’t uniform in quality. The best producers bottle wines from sectors within the Nussberg, such as Gollin or Preussen.

Preussen (11.5 ha): First documented in 1277, Preussen has a rather complex geological structure with sandstone, quartz, limestone, and some marine sediments too. It’s a fine source of Rieslings and also of Vienna’s DAC wine Wiener Gemischter Satz, which honours the ancient tradition of field blends that are still common in this area.

Stephen Brook’s top white wine picks from Lower Austria

Related articles

• Austrian Grüner Veltliner: top wines from 2019, 2020 and 2021
• Austrian indigenous grape: Roter Veltliner
• Domäne Wachau: producer profile

You would be forgiven for thinking that Grüner Veltliner was somehow related to Roter Veltliner and, for that matter, Frühroter Veltliner. The latter is an Austrian variation on Malvasia, while Roter Veltliner is unrelated to its more famous green counterpart, and genetically it is a more ancient variety.

The skins aren’t actually red, as the name suggests, but can have a reddish tinge, while the juice is free of pigment. In the 19th century, it was said to be the dominant variety in Wagram, but the surface declined.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for five Roter Veltliner wines worth seeking out

The bunches tolerate heat well and the vines can thrive in dry conditions, retaining good acidity – generally higher than that of Grüner Veltliner – as it ripens. But there are drawbacks too. It’s naturally high-yielding so the crop needs to be reined back. It is also susceptible to disease but can handle some botrytis at harvest. Unfortunately, it is also prone to more damaging forms of rot, which may well account for its loss of vineyard share.

Sadly, it’s a variety in slow decline. Twenty years ago there were 270 hectares under vine; today the figure is closer to 188.

Most of the vineyards are in Wagram, although there is also a small production in the Kremstal, where the Mantlerhof estate is credited with reviving the variety.

In Wagram, the most committed producer has long been Josef Fritz, and one-fifth of his 15 hectares are planted with the variety. And for Franz Leth, one of Wagram’s best-known wine producers, Roter Veltliner is his favourite variety.

Grüner Veltliner has the advantage of versatility. Most examples can be drunk with pleasure when very young, and stylistically it ranges from the fresh and lively to the rich and serious, with remarkable longevity. Roter Veltliner is different. It needs a high level of ripeness to give real satisfaction, and it invariably improves with a few years’ bottle age to show greater complexity and nuance. These factors are a hindrance when it comes to commercial viability, which is another reason why production is so limited.

The wine is generally aged in medium or large casks, and although unoaked, or Klassik, examples do exist, they can lack personality.

A mature Roter Veltliner from a good producer can display a light exoticism. It’s never as pronounced as the tropical-fruit character of many Rotgipflers, and neither does it rely on residual sugar for its baroque character. It can also show a pronounced floral character, and sometimes a dash of honey. It delivers wines that are relatively high in extract, which contributes to their longevity and complexity. Rotgipfler is often quite sweet, while Roter Veltliner can range from the fully dry to a broader structure with a light touch of residual sugar.

As with Zierfandler, its limited production means that it is rarely encountered outside Austria, but that’s no reason not to seek it out when the opportunity arises.

See tasting notes and scores for five Roter Veltliner wines worth seeking out

Related content

Schloss Gobelsburg: Tasting five decades of Heiligenstein RieslingDomäne Wachau: producer profileAustria’s Wagram region granted DAC status

Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s most widely planted white variety, occupying almost a third of the nation’s vineyards, and it’s not hard to see why – it’s a grape that succeeds in a variety of styles.

Staying with friends in Vienna in the 1980s, we would consume substantial quantities of Grüner Veltliner bought from the producer at a local market. It was simple but fresh, quaffable, and inexpensive.

Later, in 1998, I participated in a famous blind tasting in Vienna that pitted top Grüner Veltliners against some of the most prestigious wines from Burgundy. The Austrian wines triumphed and, at the least, the tasting demonstrated that these were wines to be taken very seriously.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 Austrian Grüner Veltliner wines

That tasting helped to establish Grüner Veltliner’s international reputation. It may not be as popular as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, but it has a strong following among sommeliers and a growing band of wine lovers who appreciate its versatility.

The simpler styles are excellent aperitifs or accompaniments to charcuterie or chicken; the more serious wines can partner richer dishes.

Nor need it be expensive. So much is produced throughout Lower Austria that prices are competitive (the only regions where it is scarce are the Burgenland and Styria).

Grüner’s personality

Grüner Veltliner does not thrive on very dry soils, nor on very rich sites that can result in high yields.

It is equally at home in the rocky soils of the Wachau and parts of Kremstal, on loam in Kamptal, and on the deep loess of the Wagram.

It’s not particularly susceptible to botrytis (but can give excellent ice wines) and is farmed with relative ease. It is usually aged in steel tanks or large old casks, so costs of production are moderate.

Its stylistic signature is a tang of white pepper, although that is mostly associated with wines from the northerly Weinviertel, where the climate is cool, even marginal, so that ripening isn’t always optimal.

With global warming, however, the wines are delivering riper flavours, although white pepper is still a common component found in simpler wines from the Weinviertel or Kremstal.

At the other extreme Grüner Veltliner can produce wines the Austrians term ‘baroque’, that is rich and opulent, but also tending to sweetness and heaviness, although this style is now falling into disfavour.

Vintage reports

Recent vintages have been very good. 2019 saw an early harvest of healthy grapes after a warm summer and mild autumn.

The summer of 2020 was more variable with some heavy rainfall, so selection was often essential; moreover, hail in the Wachau severely reduced the crop, but the wines turned out well, with fine acidity and ample fruit.

2021 was potentially the best of the trio after a fine September that again led to an early harvest of ripe wines with excellent acidity.

These are wines that can be bought with confidence, and these recent vintages can be broached now, although the best wines will keep for a decade or more.

See tasting notes and scores for 20 Austrian Grüner Veltliner wines

Related content

Austrian wines for summer – 10 to try

Domäne Wachau: producer profile

Schloss Gobelsburg: Tasting five decades of Heiligenstein Riesling

Wine tourists usually drive past cooperatives without stopping, and for good reason. Most of them operate on the principle of the lowest common denominator. Finding a home for tons of often mediocre grapes is the priority, not high-quality wine production. There are exceptions in Chablis, St-Emilion, Barbaresco – and in the town of Dürnstein in the Wachau.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for nine top Domäne Wachau wines

Originally known as the Freie Weingärtner Wachau, this cooperative’s name was changed in 2008. But by then it already had a strong reputation.

It works with 250 growers who farm 450 hectares, and the annual production is around three million bottles. It does help that the region contains some of Europe’s outstanding vineyards.

The Wachau is the most westerly region along the Danube, with most sites overlooking the river, which has a strong moderating influence. Soils vary, with ancient gneiss and other stony soil types high up, where Riesling is planted on terraced vineyards. Lower down Grüner Veltliner, the dominant variety, thrives on slightly more fertile soils.

Many of the growers farm tiny parcels, often well under a hectare, but located in exceptional sites. All told, the Domäne has substantial holdings in some of Wachau’s top sites such as Achleiten, Kellerberg, Singerriedl, and many more.

The result is a spectacular collection of single-vineyard wines, as well as more commercial offerings such as rosés from Zweigelt.

Roman Horvath, one of Austria’s few Masters of Wine, is the director, and at his side is Heinz Frischengruber, who comes from a local family of growers. Frischengruber is the cooperative’s secret weapon.

During the summer he is out in the vineyards with the growers every day to supervise the farming and, later, the harvest. He also runs seminars on treatments, organic farming, and other issues of common interest.

Together with Horvath and the growers, he decides on picking dates by tasting in each vineyard. All sorting is done among the vines, and there are no sorting tables at the winery.

Viticulture

Fermentation takes place using indigenous yeasts and also the Domäne’s own selection. Malolactic fermentation is discouraged. The single-vineyard wines are generally aged in large casks so there is no overt oak influence.

Botrytis is quite common in the region. Some producers welcome a touch of noble rot for the added complexity and weight it brings; others try to avoid it at all costs to retain a classic style. The team here is in the latter camp, so any heavily botrytised fruit is separated and used to produce sweet wines. But these are the exceptions, as the main focus is on dry white wines.

The Wachau has created a quality hierarchy based on ripeness at harvest. Steinfeder is the lowest level – fresh wines for early drinking – while Smaragd, named after a green lizard that suns itself on the dry stone walls around the vineyards, is the highest, with alcohol levels generally between 13% and 14.5%.

Steinfeder has all but disappeared, as global warming guarantees good ripeness in most recent vintages, but the Domäne remains keen on its Federspiel wines. Most of them are blends under the ‘Terrassen’ brand, and they offer good value, with varietal typicity, great freshness, and a moderate capacity to age.

Some years ago I attended the launch of the Wachau’s 2010 Smaragd vintage and asked when the wines would be consumed. ‘From tomorrow,’ I was told. There is no doubt that Austrians and Germans too like their white wines young, and their youthful vibrancy can be very enjoyable. But bottle age can bring out aromas and nuances not apparent when the wine is very young, and in a good vintage, both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner Smaragd wines can easily age for twenty years. This is entirely a matter of personal preference.

Other bottlings

Domäne Wachau also enjoys producing more experimental wines under their ‘Backstage’ category.

These include a Riesling fermented on the skins for six months in 300-litre amphorae, then aged further in neutral barrels. Müller-Thurgau ‘X’ is fermented in concrete eggs, but in my experience, it’s an austere wine with many of the limitations of this generous variety.

More interesting is ‘SteinWerk’, a Grüner Veltliner vinified in a tank made of marble. For me, the most intriguing of the Backstage wines is the Gemischter Satz or field blend. This style is common in Vienna but less so in other parts of Austria. These vines – some from varieties that are no longer planted – are close to a century old, and fermented in older tonneaux.

Nonetheless, these Backstage wines are sidelines. The focus remains, as it should be, on the often magnificent single-vineyard wines from the Wachau’s great sites.

Thanks to the domaine’s scrupulous attention to detail, especially in the vineyards, these bottlings can be every bit as fine as many pricier offerings from established estates in the region.

Stephen Brook’s top Domäne Wachau picks

Related content

Schloss Gobelsburg: Tasting five decades of Heiligenstein Riesling

Zweigelt homeland: Neusiedlersee DAC regional profile and wines to try

Austria’s Wagram region granted DAC status

With the signing off by the Austrian minister of agriculture, sustainability and tourism, Elisabeth Köstinger, Wagram becomes Austria’s seventeenth DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus), following Wachau and Ruster Ausbruch in 2020, and Carnutum in October 2019.

‘This was not an easy nut for the winemakers of the Wagram region to crack,’ said Chris Yorke, CEO of the Austrian wine marketing board, Austrian Wine, ‘but after comprehensive discussions and much thought, the Wagram region is now able to join the DAC family.’

Alongside DAC status, Wagram is adopting a pyramidal quality scheme similar to that followed by other Austrian wine regions, consisting of three categories: Gebietswein (regional-wide wine), Ortswein (village wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine).

Thirteen grapes may be used to make Gebietswein-level wines: Chardonnay, Frühroter Veltliner, Grauer Burgunder, Grüner Veltliner, Gelber Muskateller, Roter Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Blauburgunder, St. Laurent, and Zweigelt. Wines may be monovarietal, blends, or Gemischter Satz (field blends).

Only seven varieties are instead allowed to produce Ortswein: Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Blauburgunder, and Zweigelt. These village-level bottling must be monovarietal and should display the name of one of the 27 permitted communes.

Sitting at the top of the quality pyramid, Riedenweine are made with fruit from a single, officially approved vineyard. The category allows for the use of the region’s leading grape varieties only, Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner and Riesling.

Regardless of category, the DAC decrees that all DAC white wines should be dry and show no dominant oak flavours.

Alongside the new protected designation of origin, the amendments of Austria’s wine regulations also affected the country’s sparkling wine (Sekt) and the Kremstal region.

In a bid to ensure that the Austrian origins are clearly communicated to the drinker, labels of the country’s sparkling wines with designation of origin (Sekt g.U.) must now show the terms Sekt Austria, Sekt Austria Reserve, or Sekt Austria Große Reserve. ‘By employing the designation ‘Sekt Austria’ for sparkling wines with all-Austrian origins, we are creating a clear position and profile for these premium wines, which come in three classes,’ explained Yorke.

All Sekt are expected to be made with grapes of Austrian origin, from a single federal state in the case of Sekt Austria and Sekt Austria Reserve, and from a single village or vineyard for the Große Reserve category. Furthermore, Reserve and Große Reserve may only be made through the traditional Champenoise method, with a minimum period of maturation on the lees of 18 and 36 months respectively.

Meanwhile, the Kremstal region gained nine legally defined Ortswein (village) origins: Krems, Stein, Rohrendorf, Gedersdorf, Stratzing, Senftenberg, Furth, Höbenbach, and Krustetten.

Related content

Schloss Gobelsburg: Tasting five decades of Heiligenstein Riesling

 German Grosses Gewächs 2021 releases: the top wines

Zweigelt homeland: Neusiedlersee DAC regional profile and wines to try

Individual analysis of the Adelaide Hills by grape variety:

Chardonnay | Sauvignon Blanc| Shiraz | Pinot Noir | Sparkling

Plus: Adelaide Hills value – the best wines to buy

The great excitement in exploring the Adelaide Hills is finding things you never expected. Whether that be driving along its maze of undulating country lanes to find hidden wineries, or discovering grape varieties that most would never expect to find in this part of Australia.

With so many different soil types, microclimates and elevations dotted throughout the region, along with its absence of entrenched vinous history, the Adelaide Hills has become a fertile bed of experimentation.

Scroll down for notes and scores of top Adelaide Hills alternative varieties

The subsequent ongoing search for appropriate styles across myriad grape varieties has seen a majority of Adelaide Hills producers dabble in at least one alternative variety – with many surprising and impressive results. This includes some very classic grapes that are less common in the Hills, such as Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon.

A concerted effort to promote Grüner Veltliner across the higher elevations, led by Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson at Hahndorf Hill winery, but now including more than 20 other grape growers, as resulted in the introduction of a Grüner Veltliner class at the annual Adelaide Hills Regional Wine Show, and launched rigorous debate about appropriate styles.

However, it is the southern Mediterranean grapes that originate from warm, dry climates that are showing the greatest potential, and many plantings have found a natural home in the Hills: Arneis, Fiano, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano and Nero d’Avola for starters.

La Línea’s Peter Leske, for example, has made a fist of Tempranillo and Mencía, capturing the spice and bite of both styles in a distinctly Australian manner. This is a space for bold winemaking where anything can happen – and probably will.

Top producers of alternative varieties in the Adelaide Hills

• Unico Zelo
• SC Pannell
• La Línea
• Hahndorf Hill
• K1 by Geoff Hardy
  

Adelaide Hills alternative varieties: top wines to try

Related content

Spain’s indigenous whites: panel tasting resultsGrape discovery: six lesser-known varieties from PortugalSicily’s wine evolution plus 10 top wines worth seeking out

Just as the Gros family seems ubiquitous in Vosne-Romanée, and most of the mansions along the Mosel River in Wehlen are occupied by various branches of the Prüm family, so the Wachau is home to numerous Pichlers.

FX Pichler is the best known, and he certainly was a leading presence among the generation that put the region on the map for great white wines. But Rudi Pichler also has a strong following.

Born in 1964, he is from the next generation and took over his family’s property in Wösendorf in 1996. Now in his prime, he is assisted by his children. Among his 15ha of vineyards are varying soil types and thus expressions of the varieties cultivated.

Their overall geological pattern remains typical of the Wachau. The higher slopes are composed of shallow soils over primary rocks such as gneiss, while lower down nearer the Danube shore there may be loess deposits too. It’s the primary rock that gives the wines their character, steeliness and tension. Pichler keep yields low, at 35hl/ha to 45hl/ha, as it would be tricky to ripen a larger crop in some of his cooler sites.

Behind the winery is the Kollmütz vineyard, which Pichler considers a top site – although he is understandably biased. The terraces round the corner of a hill, so it’s always breezy here, fending off threats of disease. There is gneiss and magnesium in the soil, and the vines develop a good root system, giving mineral wines that can age very well. Geologically, the site is not uniform, as the eastern end of the site has loess, while the west is rockier.

Loess dominates in the Kamptal region, but is less prevalent in the Wachau. However, Wösendorfer Hochrain has a subsoil of wind-blown loess, giving a silty, sandy soil of moderate density. Loess is generally better suited to Grüner Veltliner, but Pichler also makes a fine Riesling from here. The wines tend to be opulent and juicy rather than grippy and mineral.

Between Hochrain and Kollmütz is the Kirchweg, with its more alluvial soils. Pichler is at pains to point out that despite the general flatness of Kirchweg, his parcel is on rockier soil, giving a more severe character than the site in general.

Few would dispute, however, that if the Wachau had a hierarchy of crus, then Achleithen in Weissenkirchen would be grand cru. Indeed, the viticulturalist at the Domäne Wachau cooperative considers this the finest vineyard site in all of Austria. Pichler has almost 2ha here in five parcels on very rocky soils with gneiss. His parcel differs from most others here in facing west, giving wines with a firmer and more austere structure.

Rudi Pichler has quite a pungent, assertive character and probably doesn’t suffer fools gladly. Although he has mellowed over recent years, he remains a formidable personality, confident in his approach but more frequently allowing a smile to cross his stern features.

He also has a very clear idea, stylistically, of how he wants his wines to turn out. His vineyards often ripen a week later than some more privileged sites, but he believes this gives the wines a finer bouquet. Some top winemakers in the Wachau will tolerate a few grams of residual sugar to round out the palate, but Pichler does all he can to ensure that his wines ferment to full dryness. And if that means the wines can initially seem rather austere and unyielding, he accepts that as a stylistic signature, advising his clientele to be patient.

‘I want the balance of my wines to be achieved in the vineyard, not by manipulations in the winery,’ he explains. However, very hot recent vintages have given his wines a rounder, plumper profile than in the past, another consequence of global warming.

Rather surprisingly, he’s keen on giving the newly picked grapes some skin contact. ‘I remember from my childhood seeing the old wooden presses that gave a natural maceration. I believe a spell of maceration gives the wines greater typicity in terms of their origin,’ he explains.

‘The duration depends on the vintage. In cool 2010 I gave the wines 36 hours, but in very warm years the duration is minimal, especially with grapes grown on loess, as the wines would end up too plump. I also dislike extended lees contact which can lead to wines that are simply too broad.’

Pichler also produces what has become something of a rarity in the Wachau: a Smaragd wine from Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc); it’s from 45-year-old vines and is consistently excellent and structured. He also has the only Roter Veltliner vines in the region. Unrelated to Grüner Veltliner, it’s a variety more widely planted in Wagram to the east. Pichler’s Smaragd has typicity, and this is invariably a wine with an exotic character, but it can be marred by high alcohol.

Rudi Pichler Wines

The Erste Lagen is a selection of wines from high-quality vineyards chosen by the members of the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter. This is a private growers’ association, modelled on Germany’s long-established VDP group, that over recent decades has created a vineyard classification to single out top growths (Grosses Gewächs). Until this year the OTW was focused solely on Lower Austria and its vineyards.

Like the VDP classification, the Erste Lagen have no official status, and only members of the OTW may use the logo that identifies a top site. Few would dispute that the members have made a conscientious effort to seek out the best sites, although there is always a slight suspicion that it may be tempting to reward one’s own favoured vineyard at the expense of some neighbours’.Each year the OTW presents Erste Lage wines for the press and for sommeliers to taste and assess.

The ultimate goal will be to isolate from the Erste Lagen the Grosse Lagen, roughly translatable as Grands Crus. This selection is still a work in progress and will inevitably be contentious. Tasters are requested to score each wine so as to indicate which sites appear to perform best across the board. As a broad generalisation, sites with loess or loam soils are ideal for Grüner Veltliner, while sites with primary rock are ideal for Riesling. But of course it’s not a clear-cut rule.

At the same time the project aims to map vineyards within each village, since in the past some boundaries between sites were never precisely defined. The designation of Erste Lage (and eventually Grosse Lage) status will require some official delineation of where one site ends and another begins. For OTW chairman Michael Moosbrugger and other promoters of Erste Lagen, this is a crucial aspect of the project. The 2019 event proved of particularly interest as for the first time wines from newly classified vineyards in Vienna and in the nearby Carnuntum region were presented for tasting.

Scroll down to see the top scoring Erste Lage recommendations

See the top 40 wines tasted here

The Erste Lage classification as a whole runs in parallel with the official DAC system, which seeks to identify the most representative varieties from each Austrian wine region. Thus in Wagram, the DAC is only granted to wines from Riesling or Grüner Veltliner, and thus there is no DAC for another admired local variety, Roter Veltliner. The same is true of Erste Lagen, which recognises the same two varieties.

But the systems do differ. DAC focuses on typicity and stylistic criteria, and, indeed, quality, whereas the Erste Lagen reward soil, elevation, and so forth. Equally important, the Erste Lage is a private system that inevitably merges with a marketing strategy.

The wines shown at the Schloss Grafenegg tasting event were from 2018 in the case of white wines (and a few 2017s), and 2017 for the Carnuntum reds. 2017 was a fine vintage for red wines, with a hot summer and some refreshing rainfall in September that helped the grapes to ripen fully. Moreover, yields were generous.

2018 was more problematical for white grapes, as an extremely hot dry summer led to the earliest harvest in memory. For growers the crucial decision was when to harvest. Pick too early and there could be some greenness. Pick too late, and acidities could have plummeted. Nonetheless many excellent wines were made, alongside wines that are decidedly flabby and lack persistence. As in 2003, the most prestigious sites did not necessarily produce the best wines in 2018, as their ideal exposition could be too much of a good thing in a torrid year.

For these vintages an amendment to the Austrian wine law requires that single vineyards be identified by the term ‘Ried’, as in ‘Ried Gaisberg’. This is to ensure there is no confusion with a fantasy name such as ‘Titan’ or ‘Lyra’.

Riesling & Grüner Veltliner: Stephen’s top Erste Lagen picks

See the top 40 wines tasted here

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Grüner Veltliner whites from premium regions around Austria

Scroll down to see the tasting notes & scores

The verdict

This was a comprehensive tasting, focusing on specific regions where Grüner Veltliner is grown. There was a flight of wines from Lower Austria, which were mostly blends from various regions. Basic and inexpensive, they were nevertheless fresh and well made.

‘GV can be enjoyed for its youthful zest, or in its more complex old age’

All three tasters agreed there was a sameness in profile and quality to the wines from Wagram, probably because the grapes are generally grown on deep loess soils. Such terroir gives an open fruitiness rather than deep structure, so tasted one after the other it was hard to detect nuances. But they had consistently good fruit and would give considerable pleasure in the short to medium term.

In Kamptal and Kremstal we were into more serious territory. Kamptal too has many loess and loam sites, but also primary rock vineyards such as Heiligenstein that can produce mineral and long-lived wines. Stefan Neumann MS preferred the Kamptal wines: ‘They had great purity, and the Reserves were generally excellent.’ The other tasters preferred the Kremstal wines overall – its diverse terroirs bring diverse styles, though they seemed to Stephen Brook and Peter Honneger to show more focused and mineral wines.

Quick link: See all 104 wines in the panel tasting

‘Reserves’ are a fairly recent innovation, and one that Neumann had his doubts about. ‘I don’t think quality should be defined by ripeness and alcohol levels, and while many growers put their best efforts into the Reserve wines, they shouldn’t automatically be considered superior to wines with less power. Sometimes they just seem an excuse for the growers to charge more for supposedly superior quality.’

The argument was extended into the Wachau, acknowledged as the source of the mightiest GVs, mostly grown in terraced primary-rock sites overlooking the Danube. ‘When the growers created the Smaragd style over 30 years ago to indicate the ripest and most concentrated wines, an alcohol level of 12.5% or 13% was considered fully ripe,’ said Neumann. ‘Today, many Smaragd wines come in at 14% or 14.5%. You can say it’s to do with global warming, but it’s also, I think, a stylistic choice.’

Honegger concurred. ‘Today Smaragd wines can come from lower slopes, simply because it’s become easier to achieve the high ripeness that qualifies the wines for Smaragd status. So there’s a range of styles from the overripe and over-alcoholic to the more energetic and mineral wines. It’s a trend shaped by domestic demand. Austrian drinkers love the big super-ripe styles, even though they can obliterate the terroir that the Wachau is celebrated for.’ Neumann agreed, but added: ‘The Wachau still shines for the freshness, poise and balance of the best wines, though I also think that they show best at between 13% and 13.5%.’

All the tasters lamented the Austrian predilection for wines that can be drunk on release. Neumann argued: ‘Smaragds should need five years in bottle to develop complexity, and the same for Reserve wines from Kamptal and Kremstal. But today the wines seem to be fashioned to round out their minerality so as to give wines that are immediately accessible. That’s a shame.’

Almost all the wines in the tasting were from the hot 2017 vintage, which also skewed our appreciation. The bracing acidity of which GV is capable may be more evident in a cooler vintage. But the tasting did show the versatility of the variety: from crisp and lively to powerful and structured.

The scores

104 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly Recommended 37

Recommended 61

Commended 3

Fair 3

Poor 0

Faulty 0

See all 104 wines from this panel tasting

About Austrian Grüner Veltliner

Affectionately known as GV and by far the country’s most widely planted grape, this Austrian white speciality has risen rapidly in prominence and rightly so.

Some grape varieties – red Petit Verdot being a typical example – tend to have a single expression. Others, such as Chardonnay or Riesling, are infinitely varied: Chardonnay can be manipulated easily by winemakers, Riesling offers stylistic variations ranging from bone-dry to ultra-sweet.

Grüner Veltliner falls into the latter camp, which may explain why it has only recently attracted the attention it deserves. Like Riesling, it responds to the soils on which it is grown: in Austria, from loess to primary rock. Stylistically too, there can be some variation; usually vinified dry, it can in its Reserve category display some residual sugar, and ice wines are quite common in northern Austria’s Weinviertel region.

In some regions, such as Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, it can produce powerful, bone-dry wines with remarkable ageing potential. Elsewhere it can offer an easygoing quaffing wine. With friends in Vienna back in the 1970s, our principal beverage was a litre bottling of Weinviertel Grüner Veltliner trundled back to the flat on a trolley in industrial quantities for our weekly consumption. It wasn’t a great wine, but it was refreshing and moreish and quenched our thirst through long evenings.

Gaining ground

Blind tastings in 1998 and 2002 pitted more serious examples against the finest Chardonnays, and when Grüner Veltliners took the top rankings, the wine world began to take notice. Austrians had long known of the variety’s versatility and potential. Bottlings from good sites from the 1970s could clearly age for 20 years or more, even with the high yields common in that decade. Not that it was truly necessary to cellar them. Like many dry white wines, Grüner Veltliner can be enjoyed for its youthful zest as well as in its more complex old age. But its international reputation, once close to zero, soared.

It’s the most commonly planted variety in the Weinviertel, an enormous region that stretches northwards to the Czech border. The somewhat restrictive DAC wine regulations insist that any wine from here labelled as DAC must be from Grüner Veltiner, although other varieties can thrive here too. These are essentially dry wines with high acidity, although the size and diversity of the region means that styles can and do vary.

Grüner Veltliner seems to flourish close to the Danube – it’s not a prominent variety in the warmer Burgenland, for example – and there are excellent examples from the Traisental south of the river and, facing it on the north bank, the Wagram region. In Wagram the variety grows mostly on terraces on loess soils, giving supple, spicy wines that are best drunk relatively young, although the best will age.

Then to the west lies Kamptal, renowned for its primary-rock Heiligenstein site as well as richer loess soils; Kremstal, which has a similar mix; and the Wachau, with its terraced vineyards overlooking the Danube. The Wachau wines are the steeliest of all, especially the Smaragd style, which requires high levels of ripeness but still gives an essentially dry style.

White pepper is the marker for Grüner Veltliner, and many wines do indeed exhibit that character, but by no means all. Indeed, in my experience, a Grüner Veltliner Smaragd can be hard to differentiate from a Riesling Smaragd because of the high levels of extract and minerality, although keener palates may distinguish more easily.

Austrian Grüner Veltliner: The facts

Total Austrian plantings: (2017) 14,422ha

By region (2015)

Weinviertel 6,967ha

Kamptal 2,018ha

Wagram 1,332ha

Kremstal 1,309ha

Wachau 805ha

Traisental 464ha

Austrian Grüner Veltliner: know your vintages

2018 Similar conditions to 2017, though rain in early September interrupted the harvest, and there was a good crop of full-bodied wines.

2017 A dry, hot summer refreshed by August storms, then an early harvest of elegant, spicy, fruit-forward whites.

2016 Considerable summer rain and some rot at harvest. Yet the whites proved elegant and structured thanks to cooler temperatures than in 2015.

2015 Extensive hail damage in May reduced yields, but a hot summer gave fully ripe and aromatic whites, though some had low acidity.

2014 A dreadful September wrecked hopes of high quality, although some appealing basic Veltliners were made.

2013 A hot and dry summer ended with rainfall before harvest that caused problems and brought down yields. But whites of high quality emerged.

Top Austrian Grüner Veltliner from the panel tasting:

See all of the wines tasted here

The judges

Stephen Brook

Decanter contributing editor Brook is the author of almost 40 books on travel, wine and more, and has won numerous awards for his writing on wine. His works include The Complete Bordeaux, now in its third edition, The Wines of Germany and, most recently published, The Wines of Austria (Classic Wine Library, 2016).

Peter Honegger

Honegger launched specialist importer Newcomer Wines with his partner Daniela Pillhofer in 2014. Initially on-trade only, they opened the Newcomer Wines shop and bar in northeast London in 2016, and now work with growers across Austria, Switzerland, Germany, Czech Republic, Hungary and northern Italy.

Stefan Neumann MS

Austrian-born Neumann is director of wine at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a two-star Michelin restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park. He also previously worked at The Fat Duck in Bray, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons near Oxford, Restaurant Hotel Obauer in Salzburg, and Steirereck in Vienna.

You may also like

Austria: Native vines, Distinctive vinesExpert’s Choice: Slovenia & CroatiaTop Vienna restaurants and wine barsBlaufränkisch: Austria’s finest red

Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme and Chardonnay is well established, but an exciting range of other white grape varieties is taking root in NZ, reports Rebecca Gibb MW. Be among the first to see the results of our panel tasting for alternative New Zealand white wines...

Is there no sating the appetite for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? The flamboyant and vibrant style that put the country on the world wine map in the mid-1980s continues to have a thirsty fan base.

The country has become synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc, but it hasn’t always been this way. It was only in 2002 that it became the most-planted variety, taking the crown from Chardonnay, a title it had only inherited from the prolific hybrid Müller-Thurgau a few years earlier.

Despite Sauvignon Blanc’s status as the most important variety in New Zealand today, the country’s vineyards are far from monochromatic. Instead there is an ever-more colourful kaleidoscope of alternative varieties occupying New Zealand’s soils.

Chenin Blanc is recorded in the early 1900s, while Gewürztraminer took root more than half a century ago. Meanwhile, Pinot Gris was praised as long ago as 1906 by the government’s first viticulturist, Romeo Bragato; though it would take another century for its star to rise.

From just 32ha in 1997, it covered 2,369ha in 2017 and is now the third most-planted white variety after Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, finding a home in the arid, southerly extremes of Central Otago.

Scroll down to see the top wines

New energy

However, a new wave of experimental planting is re-energising New Zealand’s white producers – including Galicia’s grape Albariño, predominantly in the warmer, more humid North Island; and Austria’s signature white, Grüner Veltliner, concentrated in the cool South Island. There’s also voluptuous Viognier, vigorous Verdelho and more, for the intrepid wine drinker.

That said, the so-called ‘alternative’ movement is tiny in comparison with Australia, where Italian and Spanish varieties stand alongside Shiraz and Chardonnay vines. More than eight out of 10 litres of wine that leaves New Zealand’s ports is Sauvignon Blanc; but this is an innovative young country that isn’t afraid to fund groundbreaking research and adopt pioneering technologies; with 5,000 grape varieties in the world, make no mistake, New Zealand will be taking its exploration of Vitis vinifera further.

Quick link: View all 94 tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

The rising tide of alternatives is providing a more colourful and appetising New Zealand wine scene. The country’s maritime climate is well suited to producing aromatic whites with vibrant fruit flavours, scintillating acidity and moderate alcohol levels. And for Sauvignon Blanc loyalists? It’s just one small step from fresh, fruity and unoaked Sauvignon to fresh, fruity and unoaked Albariño, Grüner and friends – not one giant leap.

The scores

94 wines tasted

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were asked to submit their latest release, dry white wines from New Zealand – either varietals (85%) or blends – except Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Two wines per producer (but one Riesling only) were permitted.

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly Recommended 33

Recommended 45

Commended 8

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 0

Continue reading below

The summary

High quality and the diversity of grapes and styles made this a fascinating tasting, with plenty of choice for lovers of fresh, aromatic whites, says Rebecca Gibb MW…

It is rare to feel refreshed after a 94-wine marathon, but that’s how all three judges felt at the end of this panel tasting. ‘It’s staggering how New Zealand can produce such absolutely amazing aromatic wines with great flavours,’ said Roger Jones in the post-match appraisal.

Earlier in the day, the team had not been overly enthused when faced with nearly 40 glasses of Pinot Gris, but there were plenty of judiciously made, textural examples from the 2015, 2016 and even the challenging 2017 vintage, which led to three Outstanding and 10 Highly Recommended awards among the high scores.

Quality exceeded all expectations. Melanie Brown, founder of The New Zealand Cellar, said: ‘Having watched New Zealand struggle to determine a Pinot Gris style over the years, finally seeing Gris with flavour and structure – and with good acidity – was astonishing. Gone are the days of tasting flabby, uninspiring alternative whites. These wines were testament to a quickly evolving and dynamic industry, which is capable of retaining its premium reputation beyond Sauvignon.’

Jones revealed that Pinot Gris was an important variety for diners at his restaurant, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. ‘We have had a huge influx of people looking for Pinot Gris from the New World,’ he said. ‘Quality-wise there was a lot of lunchtime Pinot Gris here, but there were enough high-quality entries too. When Pinot Gris has texture and a bit of bottle age, my customers love it and we need to introduce more people to it.’

While there was a palpable sense of anticipation when the Albariño and Grüner Veltliner flight was poured, the Albariños failed to generate real excitement – though we felt that the variety does have a promising future, particularly in the warmer climes of the North Island. Brown explained: ‘They are new and niche, so don’t have the presence and conviction yet. In a few more years they will have developed an edge that will allow them to attain a higher level.’

A handful of Grüners showed well and offered value, although wines from the 2017 vintage lacked aromatic and palate richness, with firm acid the driving force. Jones was still pleased. ‘They are clean, vibrant and quite exciting. I haven’t had a Grüner Veltliner that excites me from anywhere other than Austria – until today.’

The sheer diversity of New Zealand’s vineyards and the expression of different grapes across the country was impressive. A range of varieties and blends shared the Outstanding podium: Pinot Gris, Riesling, Riesling-Grüner and Marsanne-Roussane. While Marlborough dominates, representing 68% of NZ vineyards, there was a good spread of plaudits across regions from Kumeu in the north to Central Otago in the south.

A number of varieties have made their home around the country, including Pinot Gris, but there are climatic differences across New Zealand, which are reflected in the choice of grapes planted. The warmer-climate grapes Viognier and Marsanne showed that they can excel in Hawkes Bay and Gisborne in the North Island; while the finest Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners are rightly situated on the cool South Island (and in Martinborough).

There is certainly value for money to be found with three of the eight wines rated Oustanding and 12 Highly Recommended wines costing less than £15. At this price, it won’t cost you the earth to go to the end of the world to discover the adventurous side of New Zealand wine.

Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines

Melanie Brown

Brown joined the team at The Providores in 2006, where she helped to develop the largest list of premium New Zealand wine in the UK. She launched her own specialist retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, in 2014, followed by a wine bar and shop in London, where she curates a unique selection of New Zealand wine events.

Millton Vineyards, Te Arai Chenin Blanc, Gisborne 2016

I’ve always been seduced by this wine, which is opulent but with poise and tension. James Millton is New Zealand’s biodynamics pioneer. One of the most texturally pleasing New Zealand wines I’ve tasted. 95/100 Drink 2018-2021

Mount Edward Riesling, Central Otago 2017

Duncan Forsyth, the winemaker and Riesling obsessive, farms organically and produces beautiful single-vineyard wines. This has depth and brightness in equal measure, with purity. 90 Drink 2018-2024

Seifried, Grüner Veltliner, Nelson 2017

Wowzers: bright, clean and superbly approachable! The Seifried family is from Austria, so its no wonder their Austrian varietals are starting to come into their own, and at such value. 92 Drink 2018-2020

Rebecca Gibb MW

Gibb spent six years living in New Zealand, where she became a Master of Wine, graduating top of her class and winning the Madame Bollinger medal for excellence in tasting. A former winner of the Louis Roederer Emerging Wine Writer, her first book, The Wines of New Zealand, will be published this year.

Prophet’s Rock, Pinot Gris, Central Otago 2015

Pure, poised and pretty. Paul Pujol draws on his winemaking experience in Alsace to craft this finely scented Pinot Gris. It offers delicacy, balance and – despite a lick of juicy sweetness on entry – there’s a sense of savouriness. 95 Drink 2018-2023

Burn Cottage, Riesling-Grüner Veltliner, Central Otago 2015

This 54% Riesling, 46% Grüner blend is a rich and pristine style; its edges are starting to soften with time in bottle. 95 Drink 2018-2020

Trinity Hill, Marsanne-Viognier, Hawkes Bay 2016

Mr Honeysuckle meets Miss Apricot on the Gimblett Gravels in this voluptuous yet well-proportioned Rhôneinspired blend. Aged on lees for a whopping 14 months, the result is a sumptuous, suave expression. 95 Drink 2018-2020

Roger Jones

Jones and his wife Sue own Michelin-starred restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. He consults, writes and travels extensively, hosting food and wine matching experiences. He set up The Tri Nations Wine Challenge to promote the wines of South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, which will take place in Hawkes Bay next year.

Kumeu River, Pinot Gris, Kumeu 2016

More famous for their Chardonnay, but the Brajkovich family certainly knows how to make stylish, elegant, classy wines – and this Pinot Gris is up there with the very best. 96 Drink 2018-2022

Escarpment, Pinot Gris, Martinborough 2015

I have known Larry ‘McPinot’ McKenna for many years and this Pinot Gris showcases his capacity to make stunning white wines too – and at a great value price. 95 Drink 2018-2024

Burn Cottage, Riesling-Grüner Veltliner, Central Otago 2015

Farmed biodynamically on a tiny site where it was not suitable to plant Pinot Noir. Rich and energetic, this wine will age beautifully. Ted Lemon of Littorai is the consultant winemaker here. 95 Drink 2018-2020

Alternative New Zealand whites: the facts

White plantings in 2017 Sauvignon Blanc 22,230ha; Chardonnay 3,114ha; Pinot Gris 2,369ha; Riesling 721ha; Gewürztraminer 229ha; Sauvignon Gris 109ha; Viognier 97ha; Semillon 46ha; Grüner Veltliner 44ha; Muscat varieties 31ha; Albariño 28ha; Arneis 23ha; Chenin Blanc 21ha; Pinot Blanc 9ha; Verdelho 7ha

Total New Zealand vineyard size 37,129ha

Wineries 677

Production 253m litres

Sources: NZ Winegrower Annual Reports: Vineyard Register Report 2017-2020

New Zealand: know your vintages

2017 Difficult season with poor summer. Wet and warm autumn led to botrytis pressure. Early picked crops were most successful. A very small crop in Central Otago.

2016 Record crop. Warm, often humid. Harvest period was dry and sunny. Excellent whites and highly attractive reds.

2015 Dry and warm. Small, low-yielding crop after cool flowering. Ripe, perfumed and fully flavoured wines.

2014 Record early vintage. Warm summer with little disease pressure. Excellent across the board.

2013 Touted as the vintage of a lifetime with a warm, incredibly dry summer and autumn. Concentrated, ripe wines across the North and South Islands.

2012 Cool summer led to a late harvest with slow ripening of whites. Intense, vivacious whites, but too cool for later-ripening reds.

Top alternative New Zealand whites from the panel tasting:

View all the tasting notes & scores from the panel tasting

You might also like:

New Zealand 2017: A vintage recap and whites to try

New Zealand Pinot Noir for your cellar

Mature New Zealand wines from the cellar

Best known for Grüner Veltliner, Austria also makes world class Riesling and some intriguing reds thanks to its collection of enviable terroirs...

North-east

Austria’s main white grapes are Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, grown mostly in the region of Niederösterreich in the north-east corner of the country around Vienna. This region is home to the country’s most famous white wine producing zones – Kamptal, Kremstal, Wachau, Wagram and Weinviertel.

East

The main red grapes are Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, which both tend to prefer the eastern stretch of the country in the region of Burgenland, which sits around the huge Lake Neusiedl.

South-east

Steiermark (or Styria) in the south-east is home to international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. They can have a distinct fragrant quality that marks them out as specific to the region.

Read more about Austrian wine in our supplement, free with the March 2017 issue of Decanter magazine, on sale now.

Austrian wine styles:

Austrian Grüner Veltliner

Decanter's Tasting team pick out some Austrian Grüner Veltliner you really should try...

About Austrian Riesling & wines to try

Germany may get the lion's share of praise, but Austria is hot on its heels when it comes to producing

Austrian wine key terms:

1ÖTW

Unofficial ‘premier cru’ classification for 52 of the best single vineyard sites (‘erste lage’) in Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental and Wagram. It is only used by 23 wineries who are members of the Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter.

Alte Reben

German for ‘old vine’.

DAC

The Austrian equivalent of the French AOC. The first DAC region was introduced in 2003. It has yet to be approved for the Wachau region, so winemakers there have created their own unofficial quality system.

Federspiel

The second quality wine category for the Wachau region, requiring wines to be between 11.5% and 12.5% ABV.

Klassik (or Classic)

An unofficial term used to reflect wines that have medium alcohol levels, show varietal typicity and do not demonstrate any obvious oak

characteristics.

Loess

A yellow coloured soil with a very fine sediment that can be found in most of Austria’s wine regions. Grüner Veltliner in particular thrives in this soil.

Reserve

An official term permitted for wines in the DAC system that are at least 13% ABV and can be aged for longer.

Smaragd

The equivalent of a Reserve style and the highest quality category specific to the Wachau region, with a minimum alcohol requirement of 12.5% ABV.

Steinfeder

The lightest quality wine category for the Wachau region, requiring wines to be no more than 11.5% ABV.

Austria's flagship grape, Grüner Veltliner, offers wine drinkers something unique. Grown most successfully on steep vineyards overlooking the Danube, it can reach world-class standards of quality but also offers easy-drinking value at the other end of the scale...

Austrian Grüner Veltliner to try:

• Back to Austrian wine style guide

With its refreshing zestiness and bright acidity Grüner Veltliner wine is perfect for al fresco dining on long summer evenings. Decanter's panel of judges give us their top five best examples of Austria's signature white variety...

Grüner Veltliner wine had long been an ode to Austria’s hallmark white grape variety, but lacked a clear identity for wine lovers to latch on to.

• Click to see more ideas for summer wines

Even today it is perceived as a racy, dry white wine, zesty and uncomplicated, with high natural acidity; generally unoaked and usually inexpensive.

• Scroll down for our top five Grüner Veltliners

But like its Austrian stablemate Riesling, it can shine in a range of guises. It’s ideally suited to the minerally loess soils in Wagram, but can do equally well on loam in Kamptal, or on the primary-rock soils of much of Wachau and Kremstal.

It’s not a choosy variety in terms of soil types, though it does not show well in the warmest areas

such as Burgenland. On the international stage Grüner Veltiner has always been in Riesling’s shade, but in the right soils and the right hands Veltliner can certainly be its equal. And like Riesling, it can age superbly.

• Annual Tasting of Austrian Wine London

Grüner Veltliner isn’t the most overtly fruity of grapes, being bookmarked more for its white-pepper tones than for any rich fruitiness, although it can display citrus, apple or stone-fruit aromas and flavours depending on where it is grown and on its ripeness levels at harvest.

When picked super-ripe it can veer towards the tropical. It first came to worldwide attention in a blind-tasting in Vienna in 1998, when it was pitted against top white Burgundies, Montrachet from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti included. Veltliner took the top three places.

• English & Welsh wines to try this summer

Austrian wine estates with an eye on the export market rightly exploited this triumph, but some did so in the wrong way, devising embarrassing labels such as GruVe (geddit?), which didn’t exactly suggest a noble variety. But word has spread, aided by Grüner’s admirable versatility with food, including oriental cuisines.

Grüner Veltliner wine: Decanter panel’s top five

Looking for inspiration? Decanter's Tina Gellie has picked out ten exciting wines from a recent New Zealand wine tasting in central London...

Ten exciting New Zealand wines to try

Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are still the bread and butter of the New Zealand wine industry, each variety making up some 70% of white and red plantings. And Chardonnay – the dominant grape between 1993 and 2003 – is also seeing a revival, comprising about 12%.

But there is much more to Kiwi wine than this popular trio, particularly aromatic whites such as Riesling and Pinot Gris – often made in delectable off-dry styles – as well as fledging plantings of ‘alternative’ varieties like Albariño (very encouraging) and Grüner Veltliner.

Beyond Pinot Noir there is less diversity in the reds, with Syrah undoubtedly the leading light, especially wines co-fermented with Viognier in homage to Côte-Rôtie.

But the Bordeaux grapes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec still offer some interest, either as varietals or in a blend, as do unusual and exciting finds such as Stanley Estates’ Lagrein.

The following 10 wines are great examples of experimental New Zealand winemaking, much like we are seeing in Australia.

Related content:

• New Zealand Chardonnay: Panel tasting results

• New pastures for New Zealand Sauvignon

• New twists on Australian wine classics

Bucolic vistas, activities aplenty and arguably the best Riesling outside Europe are the drawcards of this exciting region. Howard G Goldberg offers the ultimate tour...

Finger Lakes travel guide

If Riesling defines the royalty of white wine, the pastoral Finger Lakes region in New York State approximates toddler Prince George as a successor to the throne. Arguably Germany is Queen, with Austria, Alsace and New York next in line. Australia comes fourth, some say.

As gauged by its 400 licensed producers, New York is the USA’s fourth largest wine state after California, Washington and Oregon. The Finger Lakes area is the state’s largest wine region. Although this sprawling, agriculturally versatile countryside can be visited in all seasons, its pleasures are most fruitful in summer and during the autumn harvest.

Some small folksy hometowns dotting the map evoke America at mid-20th century. Panoramic sites are grandstands for spacious blue skies with lazy clouds and Impressionist sunsets, a serene atmosphere, sweet air, rolling hills, tree-bordered vineyards sloping down to sparkling waters, gorges and waterfalls, quilt-patterned corn, vegetable and berry plantings, fields of flowers, apple and cherry orchards, farmhouses, red barns, silos, dairies and grazing livestock. In autumn, scarlet, orange and gold foliage dazzles the camera.

Glaciers carved the deep freshwater lakes. The three main ones, oriented roughly north-south, are Seneca, Keuka and Cayuga. A fourth, Canandaigua, plays a lesser role in the wine scene.

Seneca, 62km long, is home to 59 of the district’s 128 wineries; Cayuga, slightly shorter, has 30; the Y-shaped Keuka (32km) has 23, and Canandaigua (25km) has 10. The region’s 11 other lakes have six between them.

A proper visit here needs at least three days, but a week can be fully rewarding. Wine travel is orderly and systematic, since the wineries – mostly small-scale and family-owned – are on or near the lakes. Each lake offers organised wine trails but be warned: their informational materials are not exhaustive because not all top producers are members.

Gamut of grapes

The region’s foremost wine-grape-breeding institute (responsible for the varieties Cayuga White, Chardonel, Melody, Noiret and Valvin Muscat) is Cornell University’s New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, at Seneca’s northern end.

The state’s so-called vinifera revolution, which enabled Riesling’s ascent to international attention, began in 1976 when the legislature passed the Farm Winery Act. By European standards, 39 years is mere childhood, but the prevalence of young and middle-aged winemakers and grapegrowers bent on building their reputations is accelerating the industry’s maturation.

The legislation helped growers who had eked out livings from such winter-hardy native grapes as Catawba, Concord, Delaware, Diamond and Niagara establish wineries and generate more dollars from wine than fruit sales.

In the transition to mastering vinifera varieties, they planted and bottled appealing cool-climate French hybrid whites such as Vignoles and Seyval Blanc, and reds like Maréchal Foch.

Today there’s the gamut of dry, semi-dry, dessert and sparkling Rieslings, as well as promising whites from Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. Among the reds, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir are gaining an encouraging foothold, while Bordeaux-style estate red blends reward exploration.

Single-vineyard Rieslings are proliferating as viticulturists and winemakers identify different terroir expressions; however, because the young region is a work in progress, the wines’ ageability is still hard to establish.

Expect tasting rooms to feature a few wines from the outstanding 2012 vintage but more 2013s – a complicated year. If you can find any luminous 2010s in winery library stocks, snap them up.

Howard G Goldberg, who began writing about wine for The New York Times in 1985, edited The New York Times Book of Wine.

How to get there

Fly direct to Greater Rochester International Airport or via one of New York City’s airports. The drive from Rochester to the Finger Lakes can take 90 minutes to two hours, depending on whether Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca or Cayuga is the destination. Driving from New York City can take five to six hours.

• Fly to New York with British Airways

For more information, visit: www.newyorkwines.org, www.fingerlakes.org, www.fingerlakeswinecountry.com

My perfect day in Finger Lakes

Finger Lakes: where to stay, eat, shop and relax

As the term 'minerality' becomes ever more fashionable, so the search for a definition gathers momentum. Sarah Jane Evans MW canvasses opinion from winemakers and researchers around the globe.

Wine vocabulary is a poor traveller. The words we use are notoriously culture specific, from damsons to rambutans, and wakame to barley sugar. Now there’s a new word popping up on wine lists and in tasting notes, causing confusion. While ‘minerality’ is a term that I find useful, there’s no definite view on what it means.

The wines being described as mineral are also generally described as ‘elegant’, ‘lean’, ‘pure’ and ‘acid’. They have a taste as if of licking wet stones and often a chalky texture to match. Some argue that it only applies to white wines, but anyone who has tasted a Priorat from the area’s llicorella (slate) soils will know it also occurs in reds. Some argue that you can smell it, most that it appears on the palate.

The assumption is that mineral wines are superior to ‘mass market’, New World, fruity wines. They have a romantic image, one that implies they are handmade by artisans and express the mystery of the soil, with the viticulturist as the magical mediator. Typical examples are found in Chablis, in Priorat, in the Mencías of Ribeira Sacra and Bierzo, and of course in Loire Sauvignon Blancs, and Rieslings from the Mosel and Rheingau in Germany, and Wachau and Kremstal in Austria. Note that these are European examples. This is not just a European character but it does seem more prominent in places where the wines show less fruit and more acidity.

A recent term

The striking fact is that ‘minerality’ only started to make itself heard in the 1980s. It did not appear in Emile Peynaud’s The Taste of Wine (1983), or Ann Noble’s Aroma Wheel (1984), or indeed in The Oxford Companion to Wine (2006 – though it will be present in the 4th edition due out in 2015). Anecdotally, WSET students tell me that their tutors advise them not to use it in tasting notes. Yet it’s a fashionable term, well-established among wine aficionados.

Where does this obsession come from? Among many consumers, after all, a mineral ‘licked stones’ character is seen as negative. Has viticulture or winemaking changed? Or are we just being seduced by clever marketing? Many producers see it as an expression of the terroir, while some oenology experts put it down to compounds produced in winemaking. Whatever the origin, there is no agreed definition of minerality, but for many, myself included, it’s a very useful word.

Fact or fiction?

Let’s start with what is known. The International Mineralogical Association defines ‘mineral’ as ‘an element or chemical compound that is normally crystalline and that has been formed as a result of geological processes’. So vines take up elements from the soil and this gives wines their distinct taste? Right? Wrong! The mineral elements in wine are tiny; only potassium and calcium even come close to 1,000 parts per million. There’s no question of tasting them. As a result, science gives the ‘mineral’ tasting note short shrift.

As Professor Dr Monika Christmann from Geisenheim University says, ‘There are lots of fairy tales, and a lot of wishful thinking. We can agree on salt and sweet, and can describe it, but there is no definition of minerality and as a result people interpret it very differently.’

Nevertheless, anyone who has ever stood in a vertiginous slate vineyard in the Mosel will believe the wine tastes of its origins. Roman Horvath MW, Domäne Wachau winery director, recognises the gaping hole between science and art: ‘On one side we know that the direct causal transfer of minerals from the soil to the finished wine is nothing we can prove. On the other side we observe varying styles of wines from different soils and geology.’

Winemaker Alvaro Palacios has built his reputation on wines grown on slate soils in Priorat and Bierzo, as well as complex soils in Rioja. While he recognises there is little reliable evidence, he says ‘You have to believe it’. Using Bierzo as an example, he says that Mencías from the calcareous valley vineyards with their calcareous-limestone and quartzite elements are ‘gentle, subtle wines’, while the Villa de Corullón wines grown on slate slopes taste of graphite. He adds that lighter varieties such as Pinot Noir and Garnacha show minerality more clearly than Syrah or Tempranillo. Palacios has a message for the white-coated researchers and the super-analytical critics: ‘wine cannot be a technical obsession’.

Laroche winemaker, Grégory Viennois, working in Chablis, makes wines that are clearly identified with minerality. He too recognises the lack of evidence: ‘Even if the specific markers, the molecules directly connected with the mineral aspect, are yet to be scientifically proven, the astute amateur or professional agrees with this terminology.’ Exactly. We see or imagine the stones or chalk or slate, and we can visualise the flavours.

In Franken, it’s part of the vocabulary of Weingut Rudolf Fürst who produces three wines labelled ‘pur mineral’. Robert Weil’s Jochen Becker-Köhn says water transmits the terroir. The vine roots grow down some 5m until they reach impermeable rock. When they reach that barrier they take up the water that flows over it. The water releases compounds in the fine organic matter that coats rocks, and this is what the vines absorb – not the actual rock or stones, but the fine layer of organic matter.

Fortunately there are researchers worldwide seeking clarity on this. Dr Wendy Parr, based at Lincoln University, New Zealand has contrasted perceived minerality in Sauvignon Blancs in France and in New Zealand. Her research has taken in smell, taste and texture. Human reactions to taste are difficult to measure, but Dr Parr found consistent interpretations of minerality: citrus, fresh zingy notes, a flinty/smoky character, and a chalky note.

In Spain, Dr Antonio Palacios (no relation to Alvaro) of Laboratios Excell-Ibérica in Rioja, and David Molina of Outlook Wine in Barcelona, have been running a project analysing the chemical composition of wines that tasters have agreed show minerality. During the research they found that tasters were easily suggestible. When they blindtasted a set of wines they had previously tasted, and were asked to identify the ones they felt were mineral in character, tasters mentioned ‘smell of stone’, ‘pebble’ and ‘flint’ when they had not used this vocabulary the first time round. Palacios and Molina’s preliminary results suggest that the terms ‘terroir’ and ‘minerality’… ‘are not closely related to the level of mineral materials in the chemical composition of the wine, at least as the sole factor’.

Some believe firmly that minerality is a direct outcome of winemaking, and point to high levels of acidity and the absence of powerful aromatic compounds such as terpenes or fruity esters. ‘I love the term’, says Sam Harrop MW, winemaking consultant. He believes minerality expresses itself both aromatically and texturally. ‘Aromatic aspects from various complexed sulphides, and textural aspects from pH, acidity, complexity and to a lesser extent bitterness are likely [to be] playing a role here.’

Wines that have been through malolactic partially (not completely) – where the ‘appley’ malic acid is converted to the ‘milky’ lactic acid – have much much more mineral textural potential, he adds, because of the complexity of the acid profile. There’s a further acid to note: ‘succinic acid may well be the most important acid in the mineral debate, and like lactic acid it is winemaking-related. Higher levels of succinic acid are achieved in turbid, warm, spontaneous ferments,’ he says.

For Harrop, ‘Minerality perception is purely winemaking related… most wines that are reduced show more mineral potential.’ Many commentators suggest that sulphur compounds play a strong part, with the smoky, flinty character they can give. Harrop has a more inclusive view: ‘I’m not just referring to sulphides when I use the term reduction. A mineral texture seems more apparent in wines that have seen less oxygen during the process.’

No clear conclusion

The debate over the origin and definition of minerality continues. It’s disappointing for those of us who find it a very useful term. Fortunately Palacios and Molina give us a let-out in conclusion, as they are prepared to admit that there may be molecules that one way or another are a reminder ‘by olfactory and/or gustatory association of the world of minerals, although [the] soil or minerals that compose it do not have to be the single source of it’. We await more evidence. For the time being we could express the mysteries of minerality in a playful formula: [SS+A+CC] – [E+T] – [O²] = Minerality where SS is Stony Soils, A is Acid, CC is Cool Climate, E + T are the fruity aspects of wine in Esters and Thiols, and O² is oxygen. More briefly, look for wines that come from stony soils and cool climates, have marked acidity, are not overtly fruity and have not been much exposed to oxygen. If you enjoy this style, this may be a useful shorthand for finding it.

Minerality may have arrived suddenly in our tasting notes but it will take longer for science to explain it. And even longer, says Molina, to convince ‘the romantics’. In the meantime, as one of these romantics, I will continue to use it. Tasting notes are all about metaphor and transferred ideas, and minerality is a word that works.

See Sarah Jane Evans’ top five wines for a taste of minerality:

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Austrian White over £15 went to Leth, Scheiben Roter Veltliner, Wagram, Niederösterreich 2013 (13.5%)

Tasted against:

• Atzberg, Obere Steilterrassen Grüner VeltlinerSmaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• FJ Gritsch Mauritiushof, Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• Johann Donabaum, Spitzer Point Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• Jurtschitsch, Schenkenbichl Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich 2012
• Lagler, Elisabeth Selection Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2012
• Winzer Krems, Kremser Pfaffenberg Riesling DAC Reserve, Kremstal, Niederösterreich 2012

Profile:

Leth began life with a humble one hectare of vineyards in 1960. Planted by Franz Leth, for 30 years it only supplied the domestic market, but today its plantings stand at 50ha and 70% of its production is earmarked for export.

In 1980 his son, also called Franz, joined the family business. Yet another Franz Leth, came on board in 2006 and it is he who is now winemaker.

Leth focuses primarily on Pinot Noir, Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, but this Trophy is made from the more esoteric Roter Veltliner (no relation to Grüner), a grape, as Leth Jr explains, that is Wagram’s own: ‘Although it accounts for less than 1% of Austria’s planted grapes, it’s one of the oldest varieties in the country and indigenous to Wagram. It’s hard to work with in the vineyard and that’s why it’s never gathered major interest among vintners, but we have a true passion for it.

‘The Scheiben cuvée is from vines that are 50 years or older. As with the best Roter Veltliners, it can age for 20 years or more.’

Written by Decanter

Austria's frost-affected 2012 vintage promises good quality wines across the board - but supplies of the country's flagship Gruner Veltliner are much reduced.

Frozen out: Kamptal was one of the areas afflicted by the late May frost

According to the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB), the harvest produced 2.15m hectolitres of wine, well below the long-term average, thanks to a freak late frost in May.

This caused heavy damage in the Pulkautal (Weinviertel) area, as well as parts of Kamptal and Kremstal, inflicting ‘significant harvest losses’ on Grüner Veltliner in particular.

However, the AWMB said ‘beautiful dry weather’ at the end of the growing season and throughout the main harvest period ensured the overall quality for red and white wines was ‘very high’.

‘For the third time in four years – specifically 2012, 2011 and 2009 – the yields in all red wine areas and of all red varieties were of outstanding quality,’ the board said.

Red wines were ‘more compact and vigorous’ than in 2011, but there was ‘no question’ about their ageability.

Among the whites, Grüner Veltliner was already showing ‘very good to excellent’ results, but some Rieslings were still a little reserved as the winter drew to a close.

‘The total volume for Austria’s 2012 wine harvest is significantly lower than the long-term average, but it is much better than had been anticipated,’ said AWMB managing director Willi Klinger.

‘However, the decline has particularly affected our flagship Grüner Veltliner, whose quantities in the Veltliner strongholds of Niederösterreich are rather scarce.

‘But we are very happy the harvest provided fully ripened grapes that resulted in strong but very well-balanced wines and an outstanding red wine vintage.’

Written by Richard Woodard

Discover much more than just great wines from steep-terraced vineyards. Jason Turner takes the short trip from Vienna to explore this stunning riverside region. Read his Wachau travel guide here.

Wachau fact file:

Total planted area: 1,350 hectares

Main grapes: Grüner Veltliner (52%), Riesling (16%), other whites (14%)

Leading viticultural towns: Spitz, Arnsdorf, Wösendorf, Joching, Weissenkirchen, Dürnstein, Loiben, Rossatz, Mautern

Main soil: Gföhl gneiss, a mineral-rich composition of migmatitic granite gneiss, quartz, felspar and mica, and parcels of loess

Quick links:

– Six of the best wineries to visit

– Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

Introduction:

With a view overlooking the River Danube and a plate of homemade apricot dumplings in front of you, the terrace of the Richard von Löwenherz restaurant is the perfect way to prepare yourself for an exploration of the Wachau.

On a really sunny day, the water reflects a blue colour that might have inspired Johann Strauss to compose his famous waltz. Most of the time, the river is a subtle shade of jade, complementing the ocean of vines that grow on its banks and produce some of Austria’s most famous white wines. High above the terrace lies the imposing ruin of Dürnstein castle, where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned on his return from the Third Crusade. It is worth the 20-minute hike to its peak, to enjoy the panoramic view and get your bearings.

The Wachau is a UNESCO cultural landscape with a 2,000-year heritage in viticulture. The area is a 33km stretch of the Danube valley, situated about an hour’s drive by car from Vienna. It begins upstream at Melk Abbey, one of the world’s most treasured cultural sites and a beautiful example of Baroque architecture, then meanders past the picturesque viticultural towns of Spitz, Weissenkirchen, Rossatz, Dürnstein, and towards the historic centre of Krems, said to be one of Austria’s oldest wine-producing towns. Beyond the village of Mautern on the southern skyline, you can clearly see the magnificent Göttweig Monastery.

Despite its proximity to Vienna, visitors to the Wachau usually stay at least one night in the city, enchanted by its idyllic charm, rustic Heuriger wine taverns and recreational activities. Those who drive by car travel light, to leave room for cellar-door purchases and apricot produce sold in all forms – from freshly picked fruit, to jams and homedistilled brandy. There can be traffic but, in efficient Austrian style, there is a choice of greener methods of transport, with direct connections from Vienna.

Once you arrive in Krems, take a stroll through the unspoilt pedestrian areas and savour the local delicacies, including the famous mild and sweet Krems mustard. From here you can hire a bike for your tour of the Wachau. Many operators offer bespoke cycling and Segway trips through a number of the 124 documented single vineyards, defined by picturesque hand-built, dry-stone terraces. Even if you are avidly sporty, it is great fun to try out the electric bikes, especially if you want to venture up the steep incline to the famous Kellerberg and Loibenberg vineyards, that produce some of the region’s most renowned Grüner Veltliners. On your way, you might be lucky and catch sight of the bashful emerald-green salamander between cracks in the dry stone walls, that gives the rich style Smaragd wines their name.

Sojourn in Spitz

From Dürnstein, the designated cycle lanes run parallel to the Danube past Joching, Weissenkirchen, Wösendorf to Spitz, which is a wonderful place to recharge your batteries (no pun intended for electric bikers). Its 2km-long riverside promenade is ideal for an after-dinner stroll, especially in summer. However, you might want to pack a pullover in preparation for the cool evening breezes from the northern Waldviertel region that promote the signature aromatic character of the wines.

Accommodation in a winery or family-run B&B comes highly recommended, with a chance to enjoy a hearty breakfast of locally grown produce. A fine example is producer Franz-Josef Gritsch, who rents out rooms in his winery (he was also a triple Gold medallist at the 2012 Decanter World Wine Awards). You are advised to book appointments with more renowned producers, and also check you have contacted the right producer, as each village will have several namesakes. Spitz is also home to Franz Hirtzberger, producer of the Singerriedel Riesling Smaragd which won a Regional Trophy at the 2011 DWWA. Hirtzberger’s father was a founding member of the self-regulating producers’ association, the Vinea Wachau, in the 1980s.

Wachau wines are divided into three categories based on their natural alcohol content by volume. The light-bodied Steinfeder has a maximum 11.5% alcohol and the food-friendly Federspiel has a range of 11.5% to 12.5%. Smaragd (named after that green lizard) refers to the late-harvest, rich and powerful style with a regulated minimum of 12.5%, but in warm vintages, it can exceed 15%.

Grüner Veltliner is Wachau’s leading grape variety, making up more than half the production. Riesling comes in second, producing outstanding results with mineral character from weathered granite rock soils sites on steep terraces. The wine pairs tremendously well with local fish dishes, including the rare huchen or Danube salmon, that has a texture and taste similar to tuna. Indigenous white varieties from Neuburger, Müller Thurgau and Gelber Muskateller in sparkling, dry, off-dry and sweet styles are a treat in the local Heuriger (family-run taverns). Just a few dozen cases per year are made and can only be drunk locally. About 10% of production in the Wachau is red wine, principally from the Zweigelt grape, and the cool hillside sites give the wine its fresh plum character.

The Wachau is most beautiful from the first apricot tree blossom around Easter, until the main grape harvest at end of October. It gets busy when Austrian tourists visit the region in May for spring weekends, and then again in September. Mid-July is quiet, when the Viennese travel south for their summer holidays, yet this will coincide with the apricot harvest. As well as being a great way to see the region, stick to the cycle routes: with 150,000 apricot trees planted in the Wachau, the harvest means that roads are congested with tractors.

How to get there:

By plane to Vienna: From all London airports (2 hour flight), and then by car or train (one hour) to Krems.

Rail and riverboat packages: oebb.at

Interactive MyWachau App: mywachau.at

Tourist information: wachau.at

Written by Decanter

Next page

Discover much more than just great wines from steep-terraced vineyards. Jason Turner takes the short trip from Vienna to explore this stunning riverside region. Read his Wachau travel guide here.

Wachau: Six of the best wineries to visit

☆ Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein

The co-op accounts for a third of the Wachau’s total wine production and is managed by Roman Horvath MW and Heinz Frischengruber. The Baroque Kellerschlössl, the full programme of events and modern shop offer an experience for every discerning wine tourist.

domaene-wachau.at

☆ FX Pichler, Dürnstein

Franz-Xavier Pichler was a driving force behind the recognition of Wachau Grüner Veltliner and Riesling across the world. His son Lucas is now in charge of winemaking. Visit their ultra-modern winery, built beneath the legendary Kellerberg vineyard.

fx-pichler.at

☆ Emmerich Knoll, Dürnstein

Knoll’s wine label depicts St-Urban, the patron saint of wine-growing. The 15ha estate is famous for its mineral-rich Rieslings, yet also produces specialities from Gelber Traminer and Muskateller. Enjoy its wines in the Loibnerhof restaurant, just off the cycle route.

loibnerhof.at

☆ Franz Hirtzberger, Spitz

Franz Hirtzberger produces worldclass wines and is renowned for handpicking his Honivogl Grüner Veltliner and Singerriedel Riesling Smaragd wines as late as possible, often in December, when all the leaves have dropped. hirtzberger.at

☆ Peter Veyder-Malberg, Spitz

Veyder-Malberg founded his winery in Spitz in 2008, and has already been acclaimed for his organic Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners. His 30- to 50-yearold vines are grown according to old, labour-intensive Wachau traditions. Highly drinkable, ageworthy wines.

veyder.malberg.at

☆ Salomon-Undhof, Stein

Strictly speaking, this winery lies in neighbouring Kremstal, but was once part of the Wachau. Bertold and Gertrud Salomon offer a bespoke wine cellar tour. Try their old-vine Riesling Reserve from the Steiner Pfaffenberg, said to be one of Austria’s best sites.

salomonwines.com

Next page Previous page

Discover much more than just great wines from steep-terraced vineyards. Jason Turner takes the short trip from Vienna to explore this stunning riverside region. Read his Wachau travel guide here.

Wachau: Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

Hotels

Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design, Vienna

The place for wine lovers who want to stay in Vienna year round. Each of the hotel rooms is dedicated to a famous Austrian producer, including from the Wachau – ask to stay in the exclusive Hirtzberger or FX Pichler double rooms. hotel-rathaus-wien.at

Hotel-Restaurant Richard von Löwenherz, Dürnstein

This four-star hotel offers spacious rooms set within an old convent. An early-morning swim in the outdoor pool might be refreshing, but the breakfast spread is worth taking your time over.

richardloewenherz.at

Schloss Hotel Dürnstein

This five-star Relais & Châteaux property offers luxury for the most discerning traveller and has been in the Thiery family since 1937, welcoming many prominent guests over the years. The helicopter pad is just a short walk away. schloss.at

Restaurants

Lagler’s Buschenschank, Spitz

A Buschenschank may only serve cold food and beverages made by the household. Karl Lagler’s family uphold this Austrian tradition, under the watchful eye of Bono the border collie. Homemade cakes and black puddings come highly recommended.

laglers.at

Landhaus Bacher, Mautern

Lisl Wagner-Bacher is the grand dame of Austrian cuisine. Her son-in law Thomas Dorfer now reigns in the kitchen, but she is always nearby. A fine example of a perfect family-run restaurant.

landhaus-bacher.at

Restaurant Kirchenwirt, Weissenkirchen

The Köck family have served hearty, down-to-earth food here since the 1980s. Weissenkirchen offers a wide selection of places to dine, but this should be on your list. Come hungry!

kirchenwirt.weissenkirchen.at

Shops

Vinothek Fohringer, Spitz

There is probably no other comprehensive supplier of Wachau wines worldwide. If a producer has run out of a particular wine, then the chance is high that they will send you here.

fohringer.at

Wieser Café & Shop, Dürnstein

Markus Wieser is the apricot specialist, exporting his delicacies throughout the world. In Dürnstein, his modern cafés offer visitors the perfect opportunity to taste and buy everything from apricot marmalade, chocolate, bitters, liqueur and schnapps.

wieser-wachau.at

Activities

Cycling

Vienna Explorer offers excellent, bespoke cycling, e-biking, Segway and private luxury van tours of the Wachau. There are also direct transfers from Vienna.

viennaexplorer.com

Jakobsweg

Walking the 44km or 12-hour Jakobsweg (St James’s Way) between Göttweig Monastery and Melk Abbey in the Wachau is good for self-reflection.

wachau.at

Rail

Wachau’s 100-year-old train line

was restored in 2012 and now offers visitors a unique journey through the vineyards that flank the Danube. There is also a travel pass available from April to October.

www.noevog.at

River Cruising

A riverboat tour offer visitors a great experience of the Wachau, either as part of a package tour or private boat hire. A round trip from Krems to Dürnstein gives ample time to finish a bottle of wine served on board.

www.ddsg-bluedanube.at and www.brandner.at

Previous page

A German Grüner Veltliner shocked its Austrian hosts by winning the first in a series of international comparative tastings of the varietal in Vienna.

Weingut Weegmüller’s ‘Vom Balkon der Pfalz’ 2011 beat 39 other wines in the ‘Generation Grüner’ tasting at Eckers restaurant on 20 July.

The event included nine wines from Austria, eight from New Zealand, four from the Czech Republic, four from the US, three each from Germany, Slovakia and Australia, two from Hungary, one from Italy and one from Argentina.

In addition, organisers included two ‘pirate’ non-Grüner wines from Switzerland.

The tasting – the first in a series to be held all over the world in the coming months – was organised by Dieter Hübler and Laurenz Maria Moser, partners in Austria’s Grüner specialist producer Laurenz V.

Austrian wines from Markus Huber, Weingut Ebner-Ebenauer and Laurenz V took second, third and fourth spots respectively, with a further two Austrian wines, plus entries from the US, Slovakia, New Zealand, Australia and the Czech Republic making up the top 12.

Judges included wine writers, experts and producers from Germany, Switzerland and Austria.

Laurenz Maria Moser described the winning wine as ‘very beautiful’, highlighting its ‘wonderful balance of residual sugar and acidity in perfect harmony’.

‘We are happy to have started this initiative with Laurenz V to evaluate the different styles of Grüner produced around the world, and to find out what might exist beyond the Austrian styles,’ he added.

‘Having a look at the development of Grüner on a world scale might help to broaden the horizon for Austria’s Grüners.’

Further Generation Grüner tastings in London, Berlin and the US (probably in San Francisco) are planned for later this year, with Dubai, Hong Kong and Asia to follow in 2013.

Full results:

1: Weingut Weegmüller ‘Vom Balkon der Pfalz 2011 (GER)

2: Markus Huber Berge Erste Lage DAC 2010 (AUT)

3: Weingut Ebner-Ebenauer Alte Reben 2011 (AUT)

4: Laurenz V Silver Bullet 2011 (AUT)

5: Zocker 2010 (US)

6: Bott Frigyes 2011 (SK)

Jt 7: Weingut Peter Schweiger Heiligenstein 2011 (AUT)

Jt 7: Saint Clair Premium 2011 (NZ)

Jt 7: Lark Hill 2011 (AUS)

10: Loos Weine und Walter Buchegger Loos 2011 (AUT)

11: Karpatska Perla 2011 (SK)

12: Kosik 2011 (CZ)

Written by Richard Woodard

Grüner Veltliner could be the new Sauvignon Blanc of the future, a New Zealand winemaker has claimed.

The white varietal in its Austrian version has a dedicated following among wine cognoscenti in the UK, but is relatively unknown among the wider public.

John Forrest of Forrest Estate in Marlborough told Decanter.com: ‘I would go so far as to say that we may do to Grüner what we did to Sauvignon Blanc 30 years ago. I’m excited by what I’ve tasted to date.’

The native white Austrian grape is also thought to be destined for great things by David Cox, UK & Europe director of New Zealand Winegrowers, who has described Grüner as ‘the way forward’ for the country.

Although plantings of the variety are still limited in the country, Grüner production is especially gaining ground in the south island, where the cooler conditions are thought to be favourable.

‘We grabbed the opportunity as soon as these grapevines became available. We are expanding our area under vine and we have just started exporting some to the UK,’ Heidi Seifried of Seifried in Nelson said.

There should be good demand for New Zealand Grüner in the UK, with importers reporting selling out.

David Gleave MW of Liberty Wines said his company lists three New Zealand Grüner Veltliners, one of which has sold out, and another of which only arrives in the UK this week.

Gleave said: ‘We have seen great interest in the wines from a number of top end UK restaurants as they are great food wines, and the aromatic dimension will make it sufficiently distinctive from Austrian Grüner Veltliners.’

Written by Jane Parkinson

Austria’s Kamptal and Kremstal are producing wines, both white and red, that can rival those of their more famous neighbour, the Wachau – at far more affordable prices. STEPHEN BROOK discovers Austria’s best-kept secrets.

West of Vienna, just after the Danube has coursed through Austria’s most renowned white wine region, the Wachau, you come to Krems. This historic town is known for its colleges, its high-security prison – and its wines. The unfortunate consequence is that many wine tourists drive right past and head for the prestigious estates of the Wachau and do not notice the Kamptal and Kremstal winemaking regions.

https://www.decanterchina.com/en/travel/wachau-valley-austria

That’s a shame, because Krems and its hinterland (the Kremstal) produce superb white wines, and some more than decent reds. So does the Kamptal, which adjoins Krems and lies to its north, with its vineyards forming a horseshoe of slopes around the pretty town of Langenlois.

The differences in microclimate between the Kremstal and Kamptal are only slight. Some growers maintain the Kamptal is slightly warmer; others say there is no perceptible difference. Both Kamptal and Kremstal are dominated by loess soils, but they also have vineyards on primary rock soils that deliver superb Rieslings.

The best estates in Wachau’s neighbouring regions can rival it in quality. Given that prices for wines from the Kremstal and Kamptal are significantly lower than those for the Wachau, the canny white wine fancier is well advised to turn his attention to these lesser-known regions.

The grape varieties are the same: Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, with a small production of Gelber Muskateller and Sauvignon Blanc. Mantlerhof in the Kremstal is renowned for its Roter Veltliner, which derives its name from its rose-tinged skins. It produces rich, slightly blowsy wines that somehow lack the finesse of the other varieties.

Grüner Veltliner is the traditional grape of the area, and it thrives on the deep loess soils, though it is also planted on primary rock soils (urgestein) that give it an additional minerality. Riesling, when planted on urgestein, as it usually is, produces wines very similar in style to those from the Wachau.

Traditional growers insist Veltliner ages better than Riesling, since the latter often develops petrolly tones that are not to everyone’s taste. Veltliner often, but not always, retains its freshness, even though its acidity tends to be lower than that of Riesling. To prove the point, Wolfgang Aigner in Krems rummages through his cellar for a bottle of 1964.

https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/wineries-visit-wine-tours-406557/

‘It wasn’t a great vintage, as yields were very high, and the wine would have been chaptalised. Let’s see what it’s like.’ He pulls an alarmingly short cork, and we sip the wine. There is a trace of oxidation and we agree it isn’t fabulous, but 40 years on it is still alive and pleasurable. I have drunk a few Veltliners from the early 1970s which showed remarkably few signs of evolution, retaining a bright youthful colour and zest on the palate.

Admittedly, the exercise is rather academic, since most of these wines are drunk young. Yet they benefit from age, developing greater aromatic complexity at 5–10 years. Thereafter it’s a lottery and a question of personal taste.

KING OF KAMPTAL

The best-known estate in the Kamptal is that of Willi Bründlmayer. A willowy man with permament stubble, Bründlmayer presides over 70ha (hectares), mostly located in outstanding vineyards. His best Rieslings come from Zöbinger Heiligenstein, and his best Veltliners from a number of sites, though my favourite bottling is often the Alte Reben (old vines). He also produces an elegant if oaky Pinot Noir, and a good Chardonnay. One peculiarity of the estate is that Bründlmayer only uses Austrian wood, acacia as well as oak, though small barrels are only used for the international varieties.

Bründlmayer scores again and again for sheer consistency. There was a phase in the mid to late 1990s when some wines seemed too ripe and alcoholic, but this tendency has now been curbed.

In 1996 Bründlmayer and Michael Moosbrugger took over the management of the 30ha monastic estate of Schloss Gobelsburg. With a 60-year contract, Moosbrugger can do as he likes. Gobelsburg releases a number of single-vineyard bottlings, of which the best are often the Riesling from Heiligenstein and the Veltiner from Lamm. These are wines of great power and intensity but, as at Bründlmayer, the tendency to go for high alcohol has been restrained.

Moosbrugger’s pet project is the Veltliner Tradition, which he makes in exactly the same way it would have been made 150 years ago: fermentation without temperature control, and ageing in old casks with regular rackings. The wine is rich and peachy, a touch more oxidative in style than his other Veltliners, but the vinification can result, as in 2001, in a worrying dose of residual sugar.

OTHER PLAYERS

The other large estate is the barely pronounceable Jurtschitsch, run by the eponymous family since 1868. The crop from its 60ha is supplemented by purchases from 40 more. About one third of production is red: juicy Zweigelt and a Pinot/Zweigelt blend called Rotspon. However, the most characteristic wines are the limey Rieslings (Alte Reben and Heiligenstein), and spicy, concentrated Veltliners from top sites such as Schenkenbichl and Spiegel. Jurtschitsch has always been a commercially astute estate – its marketing director Karl Jurtschitsch is always buzzing with ideas – and in Austria the property is perhaps best known for its simple but snazzily packaged Veltliner called GrüVe – a painful pun on ‘groovy’, which rather dates the concept. Despite GrüVe, the top Jurtschitsch wines are first-rate.

Also in the Kamptal are the up-and-coming Summerer estate (delicious whites of clarity and purity) and the Hirsch estate, run by young Johannes Hirsch. Since 2002 the entire range has been screwcapped. Both the Lamm Veltliner and the Heiligenstein Riesling are graceful, vibrant and balanced.

Fred Loimer’s first solo vintage after taking over from his father was 1998, and in 2000, to highlight the changes, he built new offices and cellars in the form of a black box, causing much tut-tutting in Langenlois. Loimer’s top wines are aged partly in steel tanks and partly in newish medium-sized casks. Loimer believes strongly that Kamptal should offer lively drinkable wines at all quality levels, and that is what he delivers. Overall, I find his Rieslings more successful than his Veltliners, but all his wines are impeccably made.

Back in Krems, the leading estate is Salomon, in the family since 1792 and run since the early 1970s by brothers Erich and Bertold. Most of their 20ha are on volcanic gneiss soil identical to that of the neighbouring Wachau. Their best wines come from two steep sites behind their winery: Steiner Hund and Steiner Pfaffenberg. The Riesling from Kremser Kögl is at the same level. Their top range, Reserve, can have some overripeness and residual sugar. A house speciality is the Gelber Traminer, a flowery yet often remarkably powerful wine.

KREMSTAL TALENT

The town of Krems itself owns 30ha of vineyards, presented to it by a nobleman in 1452. Until recently the wines were unremarkable, but in 2003 a new director arrived in the shape of Fritz Miesbauer. Over the previous 13 years he had built the Wachau’s cooperative, the Freie Weingärtner, into a major player, renowned for the quality and value of its wines. But a spectacular falling-out with the coop’s board led to Miesbauer’s departure. The Weingut Stadt Krems was quick to pounce, offering him investment funds and a free hand. Thus far he has only had one vintage to work with, the atypical 2003, but the wines, especially the Riesling from Kögl and the Veltliners from Wachtberg and Weinzielberg, are impressive.

It’s hard to single out one estate as the best in Krems but, if pushed, I would opt for Martin Nigl. His vineyards are dispersed, and there are a number of single-vineyard bottlings, but his top site is the 10ha Piri in the village of Senftenberg, a few miles inland from the Danube. Both the Riesling and the Grüner Veltiner are outstanding in their purity, minerality and intensity. In top years, Nigl vinifies a parcel of 35-year-old vines separately, and the wines are labelled as Piri, Privat. These are among Austria’s greatest white wines.

A greatly improved estate is that of Sepp Moser’s Rohrendorf, now run by Nikolaus Moser.

Most of the top white wines are aged in 500-litre casks. The 2002s are outstanding for both Riesling and Veltliner, but the 2003s are a touch too plump and juicy for my taste.

The largest Kremstal producer is the Winzer Krems coop, whose members cultivate 900ha, here and in the Kamptal. The cheaper bottlings are clean but unexciting, but the best wines, the Kellermeister Privat and Hauerrinung ranges, offer very good value.

Very few top estates are located across from Krems on the southern bank of the Danube, where the land is flatter. One exception is Malat, which cultivates 40ha here and in the Wachau village of Mautern. Gerald Malat is a tall imposing figure, extremely proud of his reputation for red wines, and it’s true that he was a pioneer of Bordeaux varieties in Austria. I was impressed some years ago by his 1998 whites, and his 2002s show he hasn’t lost his touch. The Dreigärten Veltliner is spicy and lively, and the Beste von Riesling, his top Riesling, is concentrated and peachy with a long mineral finish. Power here is never achieved at the expense of elegance.

On the eastern fringes of the Kremstal in Hollenburg is the estate of Meinhard Forstreiter, which produces honest, well-priced Veltiners. The curiosity is Tabor, a wine from a vineyard perched high above the Danube, with old vines planted on their own roots. The Forstreiters bought the vineyard in 1999, and believe it may be the oldest in Austria. It’s very small, so production is tiny, but the wine is remarkable, earthy on the nose, yet deep, powerful, and very long on the palate.

The Kamptal and the Kremstal offer a wide range of first-rate whites for those who value purity, minerality and intensity at an affordable price.

RECOMMENDED WINES FROM KAMPTAL AND KREMSTAL

Nigl, Riesling Piri 2003

Powerful nose, apricot kernels; rich, full bodied, tight, powerful, spicy finish. £15.35; Gau

Malat, Beste von Riesling 2002

Rich peachy nose; rich, concentrated, powerful, peachy. Mineral finish. N/A UK; +43 273 282 934

Bründlmayer, Grüner Veltliner, Alte Reben 2002

Vigorous spicy nose; rich, tight, concentrated, spicy, invigorating. £16–20; Aph, Bib, You

Jurtschitsch, Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2002

Vigorous citric aromas; good attack, zesty, powerful finish of very ripe pears. £14.99; Odd

Loimer, Riesling Steinmassl 2002

Complex mineral nose, lemon pie and herbs; full-bodied, long peppery finish. £21.95; Lib

Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Privat 2002

Rich spicy nose; concentrated and zesty, peppery, perfectly balanced and long. £16.25 (2003); Gau

Salomon, Riesling Kremser Kögl 2002

Delicate flowery nose; rich, concentrated, good acidic backbone, lean and youthful. £10.95; L&S

Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein 2002

Lean elegant nutty nose; fresh, zesty, quite concentrated, has finesse and length.

£15 (2003); FWW, Hsl, P&S, PdT

Salomon, Gelber Traminer Reserve 2000

Rich, flowery nose, roses; medium bodied but powerful, off-dry, rich and forceful. £14.95; L&S

Sepp Moser, Grüner Veltliner Gebling 2002

Spicy elegant nose; fairly rich, broad, juicy, with reasonable acidity and length. £8.99 (2003); M&S

Stadt Krems, Grüner Veltliner Weinzielberg 2003

Rich nose of grapefruit and white peach; juicy, concentrated with good acidity. £8; FWW

It has taken even the Austrians a while to truly appreciate the distinctive Grüner Veltliner. But those who do discover it, says GILES MACDONOGH, are inevitably smitten.

I am a lover of Grüner Veltliner, and was at first sight. Not many Austrians could be so categorical. Until recently I think many of them hoped the cultivar would quietly go away. A decade ago, I remember telling the editor of a leading Austrian wine magazine that I was about to do an extensive tasting of Grüner Veltliner. He patted me on the back in a sympathetic way, but made it abundantly clear that he could see no point in my going to so much trouble.

Austria was going through a reaction against the ubiquity of the grape variety that had overrun the vineyards of Lower Austria in the 1950s and 1960s. When I became keen, the national press was rather more interested in Chardonnay and Cabernet.

https://www.decanter.com/wine/grape-varieties/cabernet-sauvignon/

Although Grüner Veltliner was first spotted in Lower Austria in the 18th century, it owes its rise and final victory to Hochkultur – the high training method pioneered by Lenz Moser III in 1929. The grape worked well in the new plantations, where a lot of the varieties traditionally associated with Lower Austria – notably Sylvaner, or Grüner Veltliner’s possible cousin, Roter Veltliner – failed to adapt. After the grape swept the board, Austrians and – chiefly German – tourists got used to the textbook Grüner Veltliner they encountered in many country inns or buschenschenken.

In those early days it was probably lieblich, a little sweet, but after 1985 a useful dry formula was arrived at: picked at 16˚ or 17˚ KMW and chaptalised by one or two degrees, it was light, pleasant, and sported a little vegetal taste reminiscent of lentils. In good years when it was fully ripe there was a taste more akin to pineapples. Come rain or shine it always had – according to its aficionados – a little white pepper aroma, which Austrians refer to as the pfefferl.

By and large it has only been in the last 10 years that Austrians have come to terms with the idea of Grüner Veltliner as a high quality grape. That is to a large extent because foreign commentators – also chiefly Germans – have been telling them what a great grape variety they have in their midst.

The old style Grüner Veltliners are still with us of course (and long may they last), the ideal partner for a plate of cold pork and a cucumber salad in a country inn. They derive their character from the moist, heavy soils of the eastern Weinviertel. In the west, where Schloss Mailberg produces its Veltlinsky, there is less pepper or lentil flavour because of the relatively arid climate.

On the primary rock soils of the Wachau and the Kremstal, there is a different Grüner Veltliner altogether, and it is this one that has chiefly excited journalists and wine lovers in recent years. Complexity is the thing here, yet it is not always easy to tell that it is Grüner Veltliner at first sniff. In dry years the grape’s character is always muted, and some might argue that a rainy vintage benefits Grüner Veltliner as much as it damages the quality of the Riesling in the neighbouring plot.

Lastly, it should be said that Grüner Veltliner is very largely confined to Lower Austria. It has no significant presence in Styria and is dying out in Burgenland, where the workhorse grape is Welschriesling. Even in Vienna its role is played by the classic grape mix or mischsatz, which makes the traditional wines of the vineyard inns or heurigen.

Below are the 10 best Grüner Veltliners on the British market, which now boasts some of the top names but lacks typical examples of the sort you might meet every day in Austria. Most Grüner Veltliner is fermented and aged traditionally in large oak tuns or stainless steel vats. Some producers, however, have taken to fermenting their heavier musts in barrique. Fred Loimer in Langenlois was an early exponent of this style. Like many top Smaragds, these wines tend to nudge 15% alcohol, and there is an ever louder critical voice that cries, ‘Enough!’ Such powerful white wines are difficult to accommodate at the dinner table.

FX Pichler, durnsteiner kellerberg smaragd 2000

For the Austrian schickimicki (young and moneyed), Franz Xaver ‘FX’ Pichler and Franz Hirtzberger, the two best-known growers in the Wachau, have the same status as celebrity footballers do in Britain. At weekends they get into their Mercedes and go up to the Wachau in the hope of a sighting. Everyone wants to be able to say: ‘I buy my wine directly from FX.’

FX’s wines resemble the man: they can be a touch on the austere side, and this Grüner Veltliner is typical. They are wines to admire with the head rather than love with the heart, but no one could fail to be impressed by the balance and ethereal length of this classic Wachauer Veltliner. £28.79–30; Gdh, Rae (key to stockists)

Hirtzberger, honivogl smaragd 2000/>

The other half of the great Wachauer duo, Franz Hirtzberger could not be more different from FX. With his red hair and freckles, he looks like a jolly farmer, and his wines, despite the leaner climate of Spitz, give the impression of being more open and fleshy. Traditionally made, Honivogl was always the biggest, ripest wine in Spitz. It has a touch of earthy terroir character, and is rich, high in alcohol and spicy. £22.95; Gau (key to stockists)

Knoll, schutt smaragd 2000

Emmerich Knoll is the sphinx of the Wachau. In a good year, he is at least the equal of the two front runners, but his enigmatic personality seems to keep him in their shadow. His vines are in Dürnstein but the wines are richer and fuller than FX’s. The wines are vinified in old wood and Knoll abominates modern ‘techno-wines’. In Schütt, Knoll comes closest to the style of FX, in that the wines can be austere and mineral in their youth, but with time they open out, displaying a rich, pineapple-like bouquet. This is no exception: the pineapple is very present on the nose while the palate reveals a certain amount of lentil. The wine is wonderfully playful. It finishes with a note of white pepper and lemon peel. £225 for 12; Sec (key to stockists)

Prager, achleiten smaragd 2000

Franz Prager was one of the pioneers of dry white wine in the Wachau, but the wines are made by his son-in-law Toni Bodenstein. Like the Honivogl, this young wine has a certain earthiness and tightness, but with time it will unravel itself superbly. £17.99; You (key to stockists)

Nikolaihof im weingebirge 1999

An organic wine from a family that has been installed in this house for more than a century. Christine Saahs is proud of the terroir character of this 1999 Grüner. Like all of the Saahs’ wines they are tightly made and take time to loosen up. They are worth waiting for. £17.99; Rae (key to stockists)

FWW terrassen thal wachau smaragd 2000

The FWW (Freie Weingärtner Wachau) is the largest cooperative in the Wachau and the source for Cat’s Leap. It also bottles some of the top crus. The Terrassen is a compendium of different sites from one of the richest and most opulent recent years. The wine is remarkably spicy and high in alcohol. £10.56; H&D (key to stockists)

Bründlmayer kaferberg 2000

Willi Bründlmayer is Austria’s great all-rounder and this is another huge wine from this super-ripe vintage. Here are some of the classic aromas –pineapples and lentils – but with 15.5% abv, it is to be consumed in moderation. £16.50; Rae (key to stockists)

Hiedler spiegel 2000

Ludwig Hiedler is one of the best traditional growers in the wine town of Langenlois. This is another 2000 that shows the ripeness of the year and the comparatively low acidity that was the result. £7.95 (currently 2001 vintage); BBR (key to stockists)

Schloss Gobelsburg ried grub 2001

This wine from this old Cistercian domaine matures in large oak. It has always been a fat, rich, powerful wine. The lighter and more classic 2001 vintage has given it a beautifully long finish. £14.95; Har (key to stockists)

Pfaffl hundsleiten sandtal 2000

The only one from the Weinviertel. This region is the home of Austrian Grüner Veltliner and the yardstick by which most people would judge. Roman Pfaffl is not really the best example – his wines are too good. Another ponderous 2000, with a slightly sweet finish. £9.75; Rae (key to stockists)

The ageing process

It is difficult to talk about ageing wines in Austria, as there is, for the time being, no old-wine culture. Virtually everything is drunk as soon as it released. Ideally, the top Grüner Veltliners should be consumed at two to three years while the Rieslings are maturing in bottle, but this rarely happens. A tasting in 1992 did show Grüner Veltliners going back to the 1920s. Those made with residual sugar were still alive. After two or three years, they lose their primary fruit. A musky, earthy flavour often develops, or an orange or tangerine-like note, and they become far less Veltliner-like. Unlike good Riesling, they do not evolve in a predictable, linear way.

Grüner Veltliner may be more than Austrian Riesling, but it sits easily alongside the noble grape, and shares some characteristics. PHILIPP BLOM reports.

For many years Grüner Veltliner, the staple grape variety of Austrian white wine, has been synonymous with Viennese hedonism, and long summer afternoons passed in a state of pleasurable inebriation at a Heurigen, surrounded by vineyards and general rustic bliss. What people remember (if indeed they remember anything the next morning) is a young wine without any distinction, fresh and peppery, often drunk as a spritzer and accompanied by hefty dishes. More recently, however, wines made from this grape have gone up in the world. Grüner Veltliner has arrived, and those in the know (in Austria, at least) increasingly think that it can equal Riesling in quality, diversity, and in its ability to mirror its terroir.

https://www.decanter.com/wine/grape-varieties/riesling/austrian-riesling-354661/

Grüner Veltliner accounts for some 37% of total wine production in the country. It can be traced back to the 19th century and was known under various names such as Grüner Muskateller and Weißgipfler. It really began its victorious march through Austrian vineyards in conjunction with the (in)famous Lenz Moser training method, a high training system for grapes designed to maximise yields and ease manual and mechanical work in the vineyard. Grüner Veltliner was well suited to this treatment and was found to produce reliable yields of about 100hl/ha. The next important development to influence the styles of Grüner Veltliner wines was the introduction of pneumatic presses and of extremely careful harvest practices. While the tannic content of the thick skins of the Veltliner grapes had previously made it impossible to produce wines from highly ripened grapes, the new production methods minimised mechanical stress and allowed producers to extract the must without extracting unwanted tannins. With these improvements, the Lenz Moser system, good for reliable production but not for the finest qualities, was being replaced by other, lower forms of training. The way to a completely new style of Veltliner wines – more mature, more precise and more concentrated – was open.

In order to achieve greatness, Grüner Veltliner needs weathered rock and loess soils, good temperature variation between day and night, and a moderate climate that accommodates its long vegetation period. The best wines are made in Lower Austria, just 30 to 40 miles northwest of Vienna, in the Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal regions, though there are some fine outsiders in the Weinviertel as well. The eastern and southern wine regions of the country rarely produce any Veltliners of distinction.

In the Wachau, the grape finds perfect conditions with granite, weathered granite and loess soils, and with terraces which have good exposure and temperature variation. Most of the great Veltliners here are vinified in the more powerful Smaragd grade (12.5% alcohol and more according to the gradation of the Wachau), though there are also some fine lighter wines.

In the Kamptal, just a few miles along, there are also some fine examples, though winemakers here have to struggle against the grape’s tendency to produce broader, fatter wines on the more loess-dominated soils. The Kremstal, directly adjacent to the Wachau, has not yet exploited its potential by any means, despite the fact that there are some very fine vineyards here. This is partly the case because many of the best crus belong to an inefficient cooperative, the Winzer Krems, which produces utterly forgettable wines there. What a waste.

This article proved a welcome excuse for surveying the 2000 vintage of Veltliners. The only factor that really caused worry in this overall excellent year was the rain in late October that threatened to disrupt the harvest and caused many growers to decide to harvest late, up to the end of November. This brings its own risks in the case of Veltliner, or it does from my perspective. I am no great friend of 15% bombshells that explode on an unsuspecting palate with concentrated exotic fruit and enough high octane to fuel a tank. In the right hands such powerful concoctions can be an experience to savour, though hardly a bottle to drink merrily with friends. Not for nothing does Franz Xaver Pichler, the high priest of this style, modestly call his star Veltliner ‘M’ for Monument. On the other hand, the most elegant Veltliners, and perhaps the ones with the greatest ageing potential, are to be found in the 12.5–13% alcohol range.

The conundrum for winemakers is that they chase every last nuance of complexity by leaving the grapes on the vines as long as possible and have to accept, or so they say, the high alcohol as a side effect. Some of their colleagues, though, challenge this idea. Toni Bodenstein of Weingut Prager, for instance, who is as happy discussing literature as he is dissecting the characteristics of soils and microclimates, has shown with his 2000 series that it is possible to produce superbly expressive and complex Veltliners (and Rieslings) at around 12.5%, and without presenting the fruit pickled in its own alcohol.The aromatic spectrum of the grape is remarkably rich. Veltliner can produce high and reliable yields that translate into a very satisfying everyday tipple. If this lighter quality is made with more care, such as the Wachau Steinfeder wines, it can express itself in elegant and gracious wines with delicate perfume.

At the other end of the spectrum, Grüner Veltliner produces intense, great reflections of its terroir, as varied as the Riesling with which the best Veltliner commonly competes for vineyard space.

The ageing potential seems immense; the oldest (and extremely rare) pre-war bottles, made in a different age of technology and oenological knowledge, are still going strong. Well made, powerful Veltliner can age easily for 40 years and more.The typical aromas of these wines are citrus and grapefruit, always with the trademark black pepper note; this is often, depending on the area and style of vinification, intermingled with scents of cut grass and green apples, ripe apricot or plum, roses, exotic fruit like mango and lychee, quince, apricot jam, dried fruit, fruit bread, and strong mineral components. These riper notes are present also in nobly-sweet wines which are produced in Lower Austria in exceptional years, though botrytis is used by some winemakers (such as Emmerich Knoll) as a stylistic signature.Maturing Grüner Veltliner often evolves astonishingly like Chardonnay, so much so that at blind tastings professional tasters often mistake top Veltliners for great burgundies: the peppery note vanishes and the wine broadens out into an immense variety of interplaying aromas of cooked apple, apricot jam, exotic components, and strong mineral terroir tones, supported by rock-solid yet lively acidic/tannic backbone. This ageing potential is as true for the dry wines as it is for botrytis-affected wines and ice wines which are made with considerable success in years when the quality lends itself to this vinification.

Attempts have been made to plant the variety in New York State, Germany, New Zealand, and Argentina, and there is some grown in the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary, but the only wines of great quality still come from a tiny area to the northwest of Vienna. The problem may be that the variety is too simple to grow, too productive and adaptive, yielding fat and undemanding, uninteresting wines in most places. However, in regions that can offer the right conditions and don’t make it too easy for this rather lazy genius, it could produce great wines outside Austria. Winemakers of the world, unite!

https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/top-vienna-restaurants-in-vienna-406171/

Characteristics

Simple day-to-day wines can be light, perfumed and pleasing. More complex examples can be intense and long lived. Typical aromas are of citrus, grapefruit and the hallmark black pepper.

Pros

• A high yielder which can produce
• Concentrated dry and sweet whites which can evolve like top Chardonnay.

Cons

• Can give very high alcohol and also dull, undemanding wines if unrestrained.

RECOMMENDED WINES

Franz Hirtzberger 2000 Grüner Veltliner Honivogl Smaragd Green apples and capsicum. 15% alcohol

integrated effortlessly, liquorice, powerful and complex, great length. £22.50; Els.

Weingut Prager 2000 Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Smaragd Typicity and elegance, concentrated fruit. Long. £17.50; M&V.

FX Pichler 2000 Grüner Veltliner ‘M’ Smaragd Noble on the nose, still slightly yeasty, complex exotic aromas. Rae, Sec.

Martin Nigl 2000 Grüner Veltliner Privat Deep, mature fruit, harmonious, wonderful ageing potential. N/A UK.

Philipp Blom is the author of The Wines of Austria, published by Faber.