Tomioka in Fukushima is unlikely to appear on most travellers’ Japan itineraries, but the winemakers behind Tomioka Winery hope that, within a generation or two, it will be.

Fifteen years ago, this coastal town was devastated by the tsunami that followed the Great East Japan Earthquake and was entirely evacuated after the subsequent nuclear disaster at Fukushima Daiichi, just five kilometres away.

A curious spot for a vineyard, but Tomioka Winery’s founder and president, Shubun Endo, is determined to build the foundations for a more prosperous future for the next generations.

His ambition to start a winery in Tomioka predated 2011, catalysed by his world travels and a growing appreciation for wine culture. The disaster only strengthened his resolve.

‘After the earthquake, I came to feel even more strongly about the importance of the region’s revitalisation, and my desire to establish wine as a permanent part of the community grew,’ he says.

‘This region has sea, mountains, and rivers, each with its own culinary potential. I believed wine could serve as the link connecting them all.’

The journey to opening Tomioka Winery hasn’t been smooth. ‘As we moved forward with preparations, we spoke with and consulted Tomioka Town Hall staff, residents, acquaintances, and friends about making wine in Tomioka. However, most people were sceptical.

'We were constantly bombarded with reasons why it couldn’t be done. “Grapes won’t grow near the ocean,” people said. Others doubted anyone would drink wine made on land associated with radiation contamination.’

Facing the challenges

Despite the challenges ahead, Endo felt a sense of duty to push ahead.

His family is prominent in Tomioka, with 300 years of history in the town. His father was serving as mayor during the disaster on 11th March 2011 and led the town’s evacuation. These roots gave Endo a sense of purpose to rebuild the town.

‘I never once considered the option of not returning. I’d heard since I was a child that my Endo family ancestors spared no effort for the sake of the community, and that I had inherited that spirit,’ he says.

‘This compound disaster – a combination of natural disasters like the earthquake and tsunami with a nuclear accident – was something no country in the world had ever experienced. It was an extremely difficult mission, but it felt like destiny to me. The example set by my late father, who risked his life to protect the townspeople, was a major factor.’

The winery’s location, right by the Tomioka Station, seemed appropriate; it’s accessible, it is the welcoming face of the town, and it’s right beside the only Endo family property not destroyed by the tsunami – a storehouse that dates back around 80 years.

The building is now a symbol of the winery, incorporated into the logo. The metal rails on its window, bent and pummelled by the waves (see above picture), are part of the story of the town.

Endo assembled a team, including Junichiro Hosokawa, a seasoned sommelier and winemaker, who relocated to Tomioka in 2022.

‘The evacuation order had not yet been fully lifted, and I was shocked at the scene. A nearby Fashion Center Shimamura looked as if time had stood still since the disaster, with clothes in the store windows torn and strewn on the ground,’ he says.

‘We were starting a winery from scratch in Tomioka, a place with no track record or expertise in grape cultivation, so every day was spent exploring grape variety selection and cultivation methods suited to Tomioka’s proximity to the sea. I felt a sense of purpose that came from knowing we were undertaking a disaster recovery effort through wine.’

Perhaps the biggest challenge the team faced in turning this desolate space into a winery was to prepare the soil. They removed the topsoil, which had been ravaged by the tsunami, and replaced it with soil with a profile similar to the original – river sand from the Natsui River in Iwaki City and soil sourced from the Abukuma mountain range, about 45 minutes away.

‘By using topsoil from the same origin as the original soil, we believe that Tomioka’s terroir has been restored,’ says Hosokawa.

In April 2016, while the entire town was still under evacuation orders, Endo planted the first grapevines in Tomioka Town.

First Harvest

The first few years were challenging, with vine diseases and insects affecting the harvest. Endo, Hosokawa, and a team of volunteers had little success until 2019.

‘That year (2019), we were able to harvest the grapes and produce our first 57 bottles of wine,’ says Endo.

‘I felt that the volunteers’ mindset had shifted significantly. It was the moment when the impossible became possible, and I believe that was a major turning point.’

The winery now employs 12 people in its restaurant, shop and vineyards, which span around 60,000 square metres and grow 16,000 grapevines, serendipitously matching the pre-2011 earthquake population of Tomioka.

Tomioka Winery doesn’t yet produce enough grapes for the 10,000 bottles it produces annually, so production is supplemented with grapes from other prefectures.

Within five years, it will have the infrastructure to produce 30 to 40,000 bottles, including Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Koshu.

Endo enjoys a whimsical approach to winemaking. Taking inspiration from winemakers who believe the sound vibrations in music can influence fermentation, he plays Debussy’s La Mer all day, every day in the cellar.

‘A lot of winemakers choose Mozart, but it didn’t work well here. We needed something better suited to the sea breeze, music that reflected the ocean,’ he says.

Endo has even taken inspiration from a soy sauce factory he visited in Nagoya, which had a sticker reading ‘Arigatou’, meaning ‘thank you’ in Japanese, to honour the living bacteria.

Endo has added a sticker of thanks in the languages of each of the countries that have inspired his winemaking journey: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, and Ukrainian.

Safety Concerns

Major recovery efforts in the region, including topsoil removal, demolition of buildings and extensive cleaning, have reduced contamination. As a result, most evacuation orders have since been lifted, although only around 1,300 of Tomioka's 16,000 residents have returned.

Before moving to Tomioka, Hosokawa had some reservations. ‘Since this is an area affected by the nuclear accident, I was worried that radiation levels might be high. However, I was reassured when I checked the radiation monitors in town and saw that the levels were not high,’ he says.

‘Rather than dwelling on the past, I felt a stronger sense of anticipation about being involved in efforts to build the future.’

Endo knows that Tomioka's road to recovery is long. ‘The area still carries a negative image,’ says Endo.

‘But reconstruction is not only about infrastructure. Local people have to create excitement again, to build something others want to come and experience. I want Tomioka to be a place where people can think about what truly matters, and imagine what this region could become 100 years from now.’

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An old and young wine country

Starting from casual home brewing using sake-making equipment, modern winemaking in Japan started more than a century ago in Yamanashi, inspired by Western wine-drinking culture soon after the Meiji Restoration. However, quality-driven, site-specific winemaking didn’t really take off until about two decades ago.

Today, only about a quarter of wine produced in Japan is made from domestically grown grapes (or ‘Japanese Wine’ in the true sense of the term), according to statistics from Japan’s National Tax Agency (2022). That amounts to just 11,987kl – roughly 16 million bottles. To put things into perspective, Bordeaux alone produced around 503 million bottles of wine even in the low-yielding 2021 vintage.

Finding the sunny spot

Wine plantings are scattered along Japan’s long, crescent-shaped land stretching northeast and southwest, with Yamanashi, Nagano, Hokkaido and Yamagata being the top four wine regions by production volume.

Seasonal rain and typhoons during the growing season pose serious challenges for wine planting throughout the nation. Although wine grapes still thrive in some of the sunniest and driest spots – such as the mountainous ‘fruit kingdom’ Yamanashi north of Mt Fuji. Even here, producers see over 1000mm of rain (slightly higher than Bordeaux) in an average year, despite over 2,200 hours of sunshine.

To protect the grape bunches from rain and humidity, producers usually need to bestow various rain shields – sometimes in the form of overarching plastic sheets, some meticulously attach a wax paper hat to every single bunch of grapes – forming a rather iconic view if you visit Japanese vineyards in the harvest season. Needless to say, that extra manual effort also means increased costs.

Generally speaking, ample rain contributes to a relatively subtle flavour profile and lighter alcohol levels of Japanese wines, and chaptalisation (adding sugar to boost alcohol) is a common practice in some regions.

The signature grape: Koshu

The pinkish Koshu grape, also the ancient name of Yamanashi, is the most planted white grape in Japan and one we will most likely see in the western market.

It is the nation’s signature wine grape – DNA research revealed its genetic roots as a Vitis vinifera (the European wine grape species), believed to have travelled via the Silk Road, crossed with some Chinese local grapes during the journey, and settled in Japan more than 1,000 years ago.

One of its several discovery stories describes it as a divine medicine gifted by the Buddha of Medicine (Yakushi Nyorai in Japanese). Truth or not, it has been planted in the Yamanashi region for centuries, first enjoyed as a table grape and often occupying marginal hillside plots unsuitable for rice paddies.

Subtle and nuanced, with yuzu, stone fruit characters and fresh natural acidity – but not too harsh – Koshu is crafted in a wide range of styles in its Yamanashi heartland, from Chablis-like fresh whites to textured and lightly spiced orange wines alongside traditional method (similar to Champagne) sparklers.

Top reds and beyond

Among the various hybrids planted in Japan, Muscat-Bailey A is the most planted red grape. It is a cross of American hybrid Bailey and Muscat Alexandria.

With bright cherry fruits and soft tannins, Muscat-Bailey A is a charming partner for iron-rich sashimi and sweet soy-seasoned yakiniku (Japanese barbeque), with some examples best enjoyed slightly chilled.

Familiar international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are also found in Japan's key wine regions, particularly Nagano, which has a higher proportion of red wine production.

Producers such as Château Mercian (in its Kikyogahara Winery) and Manns (with its Komoro Winery, home of the Solaris range) are crafting delicate, ethereal expressions of these classic grapes in Nagano.

In the far north, the cool, less typhoon-prone Hokkaido is now gathering many young and ambitious winemaking forces from the nation and beyond. Many have high hopes for its potential for making cool-climate varieties such as Zweigelt and delicate, Burgundian-style Pinot Noir.

When and where to visit

Yamanashi – Perhaps the most famous, among the local wine events held during the year, is the annual Grape Harvest Festival on the first Saturday of October in Katsunuma, Koshu City. Visit the Daizenji Temple (aka ‘the Grape Temple’ – the rumoured place where Koshu was discovered), take part in walk-around tastings, join the traditional mikoshi parade, with fireworks and a mountainside torii-shaped bonfire as the finale in the evening.

Take the train from Shinjuku, Tokyo to Katsunuma Budokyo for a day trip or stay longer and enjoy an onsen (hot spring) stay and Ho-to noodles – a Yamanashi local specialty.　

Nagano – There are various wine events held across Nagano throughout the year, from the annual spring Shiojiri Wine Festa in the centre of the prefecture to the many activities organised by producers in the Chikuma River Wine Valley in the east.

In the north, visitors can even join a wine-themed excursion organised by Nagano Dentetsu (electric railway) through Kita-Shinano this summer, combining all-you-can-drink local wines, bespoke bento boxes and some of the region’s most scenic railway routes.

Hokkaido – The region hosts an annual food and wine event, ‘Hokkaido Wine Evening’ in early spring in Sapporo. The 2026 event – the 30th edition – saw a record-breaking 40 wineries taking part.

Six Japanese wines for sushi pairing

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Standout success for China and Japan at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025 showcases rich opportunities for discovery in both countries.

Two Chinese red wines from different regions won coveted Best in Show medals, marking China’s first appearance in DWWA’s Top 50 list since 2011. In a strong year for Asia, DWWA 2025 also saw eye-catching Gold medals for Chinese white wines and several top medals for Japan.

‘The 2025 results testify to significant leaps in quality in winemaking in both mainland China and Japan,’ said Dr Edward Ragg MW, judge at DWWA 2025 and Regional Chair for Asia at DWWA 2026 and co-founder of Dragon Phoenix.

‘Japan’s refinement of the Koshu variety is also compelling, with wines showing great purity of fruit, with or without lees influence.’ He noted the rise of ‘vibrant perfumed reds’, too.

DWWA’s rigorous judging process, underpinned by leading experts, offers a perfect route into these dynamic winemaking scenes.

See a selection of top DWWA 2025 medal winners below.

Best in Show

Changyu, Noble Dragon N188, Yantai, Shandong, China (mainland) 2022

Best in Show, 97 points
changyu.com.cn
This successful blend of 75% Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère) and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon is from the very particular coastal environment of the Shandong peninsula in eastern China. It confirms that China is capable of making not just fruity red wines (which many locations in the wine world do well), but structured reds in which rich tannins provide the bone structure that gives beguiling fruit flesh an inner seriousness of purpose. This is dark and searching, with plum-blackberry fruits. Depth and textural finesse on the palate are supported by tannins that play a key role in lending the fruit its dignity and gastronomic force. Alcohol 13.5%

Dongfang Yuxing, Geruihong Yeguangbei, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2022

Best in Show, 97 points
Though China is a relative newcomer to the world of wine, in many other respects its civilisation pre-dates that of Mediterranean Europe – and the Chinese made mixed alcoholic beverages even earlier than the Georgians made wine. This Ningxia wine is a cunning blend that few in Europe would have thought of: Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% of freshening Dornfelder and 6% of Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère). It works well. Fresh and alluring scents of blackcurrant and wild plum, then a seductive plunge of fruit and spice, settling on something more akin to dark chocolate but – and this is key – with the authority and detaining discipline only carefully extracted tannins can bring. It’s a revelation. Alc 15.6%

China (mainland)

Ningxia

Li’s Estate, Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East 2022

Platinum, 97 points
wineningxia.com
Aromas of blackberry compote and prunes, with touches of cedar, black pepper spice and herbs. Enveloping tannins and a lick of warming tar to finish. Alc 15.5%

Domaine Pu Shang, Marselan, Helan Mountain East 2022

Gold, 96 points
Waves of damson and blueberry fruit, earthy balsamic tones and an intoxicating violet fragrance. Bold and structured, with broad tannins and herbaceous acidity. Alc 15.5%

MountainWave Vinery, Mountain Wave Malbec, Helan Mountain East 2021

Gold, 96 points
Hugely concentrated damson florals, black cherry and plum with a bewitching clove and vanilla aspect. Stylish and plush, with silky tannins and a lofty, lingering acidity. Superb. Alc 14%

Dongfang Yuxing, Geruihong Marselan, Helan Mountain East 2024

Value Gold, 95 points
Deep and inky, cassis and peppery spice flowing from nose onto the palate. Juicy structure and silky tannins. A wine that shows both ageing potential and youthful appeal. Alc 13.2%

Pernod Ricard Ningxia, Helan Mountain Xiao Feng Cabernet Sauvignon, Helan Mountain East 2020

Gold, 95 points
helanmountain.com
Morello cherry, blackcurrant and plum, framed by tightly packed tannins, elevating acidity and violet, enhanced by spicy toast characters from the oak. Alc 14.8%

Shandong

Mystic Island, Yihu Qiushan Reserve Chardonnay, Penglai 2022

Gold, 96 points
mysticwinery.hk
Floral charm of jasmine, white blossom and honeysuckle aromas leads into a mouthwatering lemony freshness, flowing with a wonderful smoky mineral quality. Alc 13%

Longting, Sea Breeze Reserve Chardonnay, Penglai 2020

Gold, 95 points
longtingvineyard.com
Beguiling white blossom, melon and peach perfumes brought together by invigorating citrus peel acidity and a mineral undertow, with an intriguing bitter almond twist at the end. Alc 12.5%

Japan

Chubu

Chateraise Belle Foret, Katsunuma Koshu, Yamanashi 2023

Gold, 95 points
koshuvalley.com
Layers of white peach, pear, cherry blossom and lemon zest with a stony mineral infusion. Crunchy and crisp with a playful minty green tea finish. Alc 12%

Shirayuri Winery, L’Orient Vigne de Nakagawa Koshu, Yamanashi 2024

Gold, 95 points
koshuvalley.com
Rose petal and lily scents, green apple and lime bring a sense of brightness and vitality. Lifted texture and a vibrant bite of acidity. Fresh and sustained. Alc 12%

Hokkaido

Grande Polaire, Zweigeltrebe, Yoichi 2022

Platinum, 97 points
sapporobeer.jp
Cherry, plum, prune and violet with a vibrant, minty undercurrent. Plush, velvety texture. Intense and engaging, with spicy interludes. Nicely rounded through to the finish. Alc 12.5%

Niki Hills, Chardonnay, Niki 2023

Gold, 96 points
Sublime yellow plum, pineapple and fresh flower aromas shot through with a subtle vein of vanilla oak. A crushed rock mineral character on the palate and a zesty finish. Alc 13%

Kyushu

Tsuno Wine, Makiuchi Private Reserve Koshu, Miyazaki 2024

Gold, 95 points
Pink-tinged and impeccably flavoured with rose petal florals, peach and pear fruits, and a sumptuous bite of almond nuttiness. Glowing with crisp apple acidity. Vivacious and pure. Alc 11%

DWWA 2026 results announced 17 June 2026.

Discover more at awards.decanter.com

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After my spotlight on sake books, the Japanese theme continues this month with a new guide to the country’s wines.

I stumbled across this self-published work on Instagram (a reward for my hours of mindless scrolling). Nick Rowan – aka @winefogg on the platform – isn’t an industry veteran, but has clearly fallen hard for the world of wine in recent years, undertaking WSET courses and setting up a blog.

And now, he’s published a book: Japanese Wine: History, Regions, Wineries (and Cheese) (£49 Wine Fogg, December 2025).

A true labour of love

Rowan, who previously lived in Japan, has put an extraordinary amount of thought and work into the book. A true labour of love, it’s a comprehensive guide to the wines of Japan (as well as a nod to the country’s nascent cheese industry), written with the tourist in mind.

It offers a broad-brush introduction to the country’s wines – the history, main grapes and styles, viticulture and winemaking – before diving into profiles of each prefecture and the producers; but you’ll also find shortlists of wine shops, bars and restaurants in every area covered, as well as useful travel tips. (A note for those who are as confused as I was at first: MBA doesn’t stand for Master of Business Administration, but Muscat Bailey A, otherwise Bailey A, an outstanding sibling for Melon B in the Spice Grapes band I’m compiling.)

The appendices include an array of additional information – from the estates with the best winery cats/dogs/goats/ chickens and statistics on wine production to a (very) brief guide to parsing Japanese.

'Ideal if you're planning a vinous tour of Japan'

Dear reader, you may be aware that I don’t always gush with praise when it comes to self-publishing – and it certainly comes with limitations.

Inevitably, there are a few more typos or formatting quirks than in traditionally published books; the design may leave a lot to be desired; and the imagery can be awful. Editors are generally very helpful in shaping a book – and can be sorely missed.

Rowan, however, has managed to dodge the worst of these potential pitfalls. His book is stripped back – text heavy, but for good reason. This isn’t a coffee table book, nor one you’re likely to read cover to cover, but rather a solid reference guide – and ideal if you’re planning a vinous tour of Japan.

An editor would likely have cut the best winery animals from the appendix; I’m glad there wasn’t one to do so. If you buy the book directly through Rowan’s site (rather than Amazon), you can add a custom wine stain, made with a specific Japanese wine of your choice – a curious yet creative way to tip an amateur author if ever I saw one.

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Exploring books on sake: literary escapism

It seems as though almost everyone I know is going on holiday to Japan – and I’m filled with envy.

I drool over their pictures of ramen and yakitori, ogle the backstreets of Tokyo and gape at the landscapes spied on their high-speed train journeys.

While I wait for someone to whisk me away (invitations are welcome, please and thank you), I’ve been making do with literary escapism – dipping a toe into the sake waters, looking for the best books about Japan’s national drink.

The Story of Dassai: The Art of Sake

Anthony Rose (who wrote the Classic Wine Library’s Sake and the Wines of Japan; £35 Académie du Vin Library, 2024) has recently published The Story of Dassai: The Art of Sake (£40 First Press Editions, October 2025).

While this is a producer-funded publication, and therefore has a certain PR angle, there’s an interesting story within, covering how the relatively modern brewer shifted its focus to quality and became one of Japan’s leading names.

Kanpai: The History of Sake

Last year, too, Eric C Rath published Kanpai: The History of Sake (£17.99 Reaktion Books) – the first history of the drink to make its way into English (kanpai equates to ‘cheers’).

Academic and a little heavygoing in places, this compact publication is nevertheless fascinating, tracing sake’s evolution over two millennia and its place in Japanese history – from why it was once made almost exclusively by women to how medieval samurai had their own version of ‘splitting the G’ (ensuring that the line between the head of a freshly poured Guinness and the beer beneath bisects the word Guinness on the pint glass after your first sip).

Sake: The Art and Craft of Japan’s National Drink

For the ultimate guide to sake, however, look no further than Yoshiko UenoMüller’s Sake: The Art and Craft of Japan’s National Drink (£50 Prestel, 2024).

It swept up awards on release (taking home a James Beard and Fortnum & Mason’s Debut Drink Book 2025, to name two) and it’s easy to see why. It’s stunning – beautifully designed, the text given space to breathe, with gorgeous photography (mostly from Markus Bassler) and serious paper with a mix of finishes that all combine to make it very coffee-table-esque.

This is much more than just a pretty book, however, with thoughtful, precise and evocative writing from Ueno-Müller.

It’s broken down into three main sections: Origins (covering a brief cultural history of sake, raw materials and production), The Country and the People (a look at the places and people that define sake culture today), and A Feast for All the Senses (a tasting and drinking guide, including pairing advice – how to appreciate and enjoy sake).

She brings life to the topic with profiles of real people – brewers, mainly, but also a rice farmer and barrel-maker, for example – in among all the reference material.

It left me desperate to go and buy a whole host of bottles – and maybe book those flights myself. Kanpai, indeed.

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Enchanting and idiosyncratic

The Kofu basin opens wide below, ringed by towering mountains that seem to hold the landscape in an embrace, while Mount Fuji watches quietly from beyond.

Above my head, intertwined vines stretch across pergolas, offering much-needed shade on one of the hottest days of 2025.

Below them, low-hanging grape bunches are each crowned with a paper hat, poised for the sudden arrival of rain and typhoons – this is certainly unlike any wine region I’ve visited before.

In the past, I had travelled to Japan for its temples and gardens, the food, sake and pop culture, but this time I’m here for the wine.

With global palates leaning towards lighter wine styles and Japanese fine dining enjoying a wider spotlight, it feels like the perfect moment to uncover the stories behind the delicate yet versatile Koshu grape and Yamanashi – the landscape it calls home.

The fruit kingdom

At the heart of Yamanashi prefecture, the Kofu basin is a west-east stretching river valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides – with Mt Fuji towering further south.

The inland basin is one of the sunniest areas in Japan, enjoying an annual average of more than 2,200 hours of sunshine (Japan Meteorological Agency, 1991-2020).

Local produce such as peaches and Shine Muscat, a popular table grape, commands eyewatering premiums.

Meanwhile, Yamanashi receives around 1,000mm of rain each year – the equivalent in Bordeaux is 944mm, according to Current Results data citing Météo France annual averages 1981-2010 (published by Futura, November 2024) – yet it’s among the driest regions in Japan; and much of it falls during early summer (‘tsuyu’).

Those tiny ‘hats’ on grape bunches – individually hand-fashioned from wax paper or plastic – and arching rain-covers over the trellises are crucial in countering ripe rot, a fungal disease common during ripening.

More than 1,000 years ago, a pinkish, thick-skinned Vitis vinifera, later named Koshu after Yamanashi’s ancient name, is believed to have travelled along the Silk Road via China and settled here, according to DNA research by Japan’s National Research Institute of Brewing.

One of the most famous stories of the grape’s discovery dates to the Nara era (710-784 CE), when monk Gyoki is said to have dreamed of the Buddha of healing, holding a bunch of grapes – and he soon found a vine near Daizenji temple, and promoted it as a divine medicine to the locals.

Dawn of modern winemaking

For centuries, Koshu was planted as a table grape across Yamanashi, much of it concentrated around Katsunuma, on the southwest-facing alluvial fan shaped by the flood-prone Hikawa river on the northeastern edge of the Kofu basin, as farmers filled steep or marginal plots unsuited to rice paddies with vines.

As fresh grapes don’t last as long as rice, farmers started making wine with converted soybean presses and sake barrels, storing the home-brew in Isshobin (1.8-litre sake bottles) and enjoying it from tea cups.

In 1877, Japan’s first modern winery – Dai-Nihon Yamanashi Budoshu Gaisha (Japan Yamanashi Wine Company) – was established in Katsunuma.

Two young men, Masanari Takano and Ryuken Tsuchiya, were sent to France to study viticulture and oenology. They came back with detailed notes on winemaking techniques, which became an invaluable reference for the region.

A subtle grape

In 2010, Koshu was officially registered by OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) and it now accounts for 67% of Yamanashi’s total wine grape production.

The disease-resilient grape is traditionally trained on a complicated X-shaped pergola – and more recently in a simpler tall cordon system – to limit vigour and encourage air circulation.

Chaptalisation (the addition of sugar to unfermented grape must to raise the potential alcohol level) is widely adopted – although producers such as Fujiclair insist on avoiding it, producing gentle, ethereal bottlings such as its Kyoutou and Ginka Koshu, at just 9% alcohol.

Grace Wine tackles the issue from the vineyard – fourth-generation owner Shigekazu Misawa pioneered the vertical shoot positioning (VSP) system for Koshu in the 1990s, with a growing number of producers now trialling the method.

The producer showed me a paper published in scientific journal Fermentation, which states that the approach results in ‘elevated sugar content and a favourable malic/tartaric acid ratio’, facilitating malolactic fermentation – not always achievable with Koshu – and delivering greater flavour complexity and improved texture.

Still, it’s not a variety beaming with personality. Delicate citrus and white fruits with a gentle line of acidity form its baseline, yet this is also where the versatility lies.

The many faces of Koshu

Lumière, founded in 1885, was among the earliest producers of traditional-method sparkling Koshu and today offers a broad range that includes orange and barrel-aged editions.

For everyday drinking, Manns of the Kikkoman group makes a popular Charmat Koshu range, Kobo-no-awa (‘bubbles of the yeast’).

Among the still wines, Château Mercian’s Kiiroka (‘yellow fragrance’) focuses on the grape’s pristine citrus character, while Katsunuma Jyozo’s single-vineyard Issehara Koshu (see recommendations) delivers a surprisingly aromatic nose, a character the producer attributes to its sandy floodplain site.

Barrel-fermented and aged examples such as Lumière’s Hikari Koshu and Kurambon’s N Koshu offer richer, sensual interpretations.

Many producers also explore skin contact to build texture – one highlight is cooperative Iwasaki Jyozo’s Tokiwa ni Moyuru (‘eternally aflame’), a satisfying orange wine with chewy yellow fruits and a long finish.

But can Koshu express terroir? Grace Wine’s site-specific bottlings from Akeno, Kayagatake, Toriibira and Hishiyama offer some early answers.

So, too, does ageability.

At a vertical tasting of the estate’s signature Misawa Vineyard Koshu (see recommendations) with Ayana Misawa – the century-old family winery’s first-ever female CEO (pictured, above) and Shigekazu’s daughter – I was immediately struck by the grape’s vintage variation.

Grown on volcanic clay soils of Akeno at 700m, the 11 vintages tasted range from shy and linear to generous and tropical – while the 2013 remains vividly alive 12 years on, marked by acacia honey, yellow fruit and dried camomile.

Beyond Koshu, 28% of the region’s harvest is Muscat Bailey A, an indigenous red hybrid of Muscat Hamburg and Vitis labrusca Bailey bred by Zenbei Kawakami in 1920.

Often seen as a cherry candy-scented food companion, it can also take on a more serious guise, revealing fine-boned tannins and elegant fruit.

International varieties, especially grapes of French origin, are found sporadically, while experimental bottlings are also made using hybrids such as Delaware, Kai Noir and Black Queen.

The warming basin

The ‘fruit kingdom’ is one of the rare agricultural regions where growing table fruit can be more profitable than making wine.

The meticulous vineyard work required, coupled with an ageing population, means local wineries face an ongoing challenge in securing supplies and persuading their grower partners to retain their vineyard plantings: a concern echoed widely across the region.

Adding to the challenge is the warming climate, says Kentaro Shinoda, chief winemaker at Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery.

Average night temperatures in late August have risen by around 2°C over the past decade, he explains, posing a serious concern for veraison (the point when berries on the vine change colour as they begin to ripen) and acidity retention during the ripening period.

The producer has been trialling a new pruning method that involves cutting the tips of early shoots and encouraging fruit set on secondary shoots, pushing the ripening season back by a month – when night temperatures drop.

Meanwhile, Suntory is increasing the proportion of late-ripening Petit Verdot in its flagship Bordeaux blend Tomi Red.

Heat-resistant varieties such as Tannat, Syrah and Tempranillo and higher elevation are also key to coping with the warming summers, says Dr Hironori Kobayashi, general manager of Château Mercian, citing the producer’s Tengusawa Vineyard (at 800m-850m), in the northeast of the Kofu basin.

Grace Wine set its sights on the sun-drenched, breezy foothills of Hokuto, in the northwest of the Kofu basin, as early as 2002 – and more producers are arriving.

Fujiclair, for instance, crafts its Momochi range in Akeno while developing an ambitious 40ha sparkling-wine project in Mukawa.

Terroir talk

Although more producers, such as Grace, are producing area-specific bottlings, tapping into the region’s rich variation in soil types, orientation and elevation, ‘it’s too early for us to speak about terroir, as quality winemaking only began around 20 years ago in Yamanashi’, says Shigekazu Misawa.

But the groundwork is already there – the pioneer showed me rolls of maps created in the 1960s by the Japanese government, meticulously charting the topography of this landlocked prefecture in preparation for earthquakes.

‘Matching these maps with the region’s winemaking activities will be my life’s work,’ he says.

The younger generation is in favour of a dedicated Katsunuma GI (geographical indication) beyond the existing Yamanashi GI, according to Burgundy-trained winemaker Takahiko Nozawa of Kurambon Wine, who is leading the initiative.

He points to Katsunuma’s unique position on an alluvial fan within the Shimanto accretionary belt, with granite carried down by the Hikawa river and underlying sandstone soils.

Wines made for ‘washoku’

‘We believe in making wines to pair with traditional Japanese food,’ I was told repeatedly by producers – a tradition in which washoku encapsulates concepts such as seasonality, freshness, harmony and presentation.

They are clearly on the right path: from local speciality hoto (miso-seasoned noodles) to sushi, tempura and Japanese curry, Koshu’s subtle fruit and gentle freshness pair seamlessly with the savoury, umami depth found in dashi (seafood and seaweed stock), soy sauce and miso – the backbones of Japanese cuisine.

The reds, with their ethereal tannins and elevated red fruits, make discreet companions to iron-rich maguro (tuna), while spicier orange wines sit comfortably alongside pickled ginger and uni (sea urchin).

The price tags, driven by the heavy manual labour involved, remain an obstacle for Koshu wines to reach wider shores, but as the global appeal of washoku grows, so too will that of these wines

The subtle flavours of Japan’s top wine: a taste of Koshu, and more...

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From junmai to daiginjo, nigori to koshu, the sake world has a unique glossary of terms – most of which refer to stylistic choices made by the brewer. One of the most commonly used phrases in this lexicon is ‘nama’. But what exactly is nama sake, and how does it differ from other types of the rice wine? That’s exactly what this article will explain.

Defining nama sake

The word ‘nama’ – signified by the kanji character 生 – means ‘raw’ or ‘living’ in Japanese. It’s often used to denote a fresh, uncooked or natural product in Japan. In the world of sake it refers to bottles that are unpasteurised.

Whereas most sakes will undergo heat pasteurisation twice – once after filtration and before storage, then again around the time of bottling – sakes labelled as ‘nama’ won’t have seen this process at all.

As with other unpasteurised products, nama sake (or namazake – 生酒 – in Japanese) contains active enzymes and live microorganisms. While this brings an added element to the drinking experience, producers must use extra care when making it. ‘That means colder, faster handling after filtration and strict cold-chain storage and transport,’ says Natsuki Kikuya, sake educator at WSET.

Because of the need for cold storage in preservation, nama sake has traditionally been made only during the winter months in Japan – typically from December to March – with bottles designed to be consumed quickly before summer heat spikes.

While modern technology now allows nama to be made year-round, most producers – particularly small ones who might lack the specialised equipment required – still release it only as a seasonal ‘fresh’ bottling over winter and early spring months.

How does it taste?

There is no single flavour profile associated with nama sake. As with other sakes, character is influenced by a combination of factors. These include the rice variety, growing conditions, koji mold used and local water, as well as other stylistic elements – for example, the rice polishing standard (ie honjozo, ginjo or daiginjo).

Nama can be made with any rice type, in any place. However, in general terms, nama sakes tend to be brighter, fresher and zingier than their counterparts.

‘Nama showcases more lift and zing, often sharper and more vivid aromatics, and sometimes a soft natural spritz or “alive” sensation,' says Kikuya. 'Its flavour profile can feel more immediate and energetic than pasteurised equivalents.'

Storing and drinking

Nama sake has to be drunk cold, insists Ryosuke Mashio, sommelier at Roketsu restaurant in London. ‘While other sakes can be enjoyed warm, or at room temperature, nama has to be cold to preserve its vibrancy and fragrance.’

Maintaining those delicate unpasteurised flavours requires careful storage, and consumption within six months of production date is often recommended. ‘Cellaring is key with namazake,’ says Mashio. ‘As low as possible, between 0℃ and 5℃ or even in minus temperatures.’ Each winter when he buys a dozen bottles for Roketsu, he ensures they are transported in cold storage and keeps them in a dedicated sake fridge.

Once open, even when kept refrigerated and away from light exposure, nama sakes can develop rapidly; which, of course, is part of what makes them interesting to drink. Kikuya recommends finishing any bottles within five to seven days, whereas other sakes may keep for up to two weeks.

New styles

While nama sake is typically designed to be drunk young and fresh, just as in the wine world, the space is seeing innovation.

‘Aged nama sake is a whole new territory,’ says Anthony Yukio, sake sommelier at Kioku in London. ‘When aged at low temperature, that wild character is tamed slightly, flavours concentrate on the palate.’ He points out that the same bottle served in Japan and London will taste entirely different due to individual storage conditions, and that’s part of what keeps the category exciting.

Certain styles of nama sake can be carefully stored at room temperature too, but this can be a risky business as it pushes things into a wilder, more oxidative and nutty state. It’s best to leave this kind of ageing to venues that know their stuff (like Kioku). Be wary of nama sake that appears too hazy or is unpleasant on the nose, as it may have gone too far.

Buying nama sake: tips

Because nama sake is easily perishable it’s important to buy from quality sources – for starters, somewhere that keeps its bottles in a fridge, notes Mashio. Also do consider when you are buying it. Unless you’re deliberately seeking out an aged example, if you pick it up in late summer or autumn there’s a chance it’s been sitting around a bit too long.

Nama is a specific style and producers will usually state it on the label. Saying that, most Japanese sake labels are written in kanji, and can be difficult for English-speakers to decode – particularly when they contain many other terms.

Memorise the simple kanji character for namazake – 生酒 – and you’ll instantly be able to recognise it. Just don’t be confused by similar kanji such as namazume (生詰め) or namachozo (生貯蔵), both of which refer to single pasteurisations (before and after storage, respectively), rather than nama sake’s characteristic zero-pasteurisation profile.

Six nama sake bottles to try

Kikunotsukasa Innocent 50 Junmai Ginjo Nama Sake

£49.90/720ml, Yutaka

Made in Iwate, in the northern part of Japan’s main island Honshu, Innocent is known for its slightly lower alcohol and easier-drinking style. Produced as a junmai – which means it’s free from added alcohol or sugar – as well as nama, this is richly rice-y and white peachy. Alcohol 14%

Masumi Arabashiri Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu

£TBC/720ml, The Whisky Exchange

A higher-alcohol form of nama sake, genshu (‘undiluted’) is bottled straight from the tank without added water. This one is made by Masumi in Nagano, which has roots dating to 1662, and its robust profile can stand up well to white meats and grilled fish. Notes of fresh plum, cherry and apricot. (This year’s edition had not been released at the time of publishing.) Alc 17%

Narutotai Gingo Nama Genshu

£30/720ml, London Sake

Vibrant, sweet caramel and nut notes meet a zippy fruitiness. Produced from Yamada Nishiki rice in Tokushima, on Shikoku Island, this namazake is bottled in UV-resistant aluminium to protect it from light damage. Fruity and generous in aromatics, yet dry. Alc 18%

Tamagawa ‘Red Label’ Yamahai Genshu Junmai

£35.99/720ml, London Sake

The Tamagawa range is made by Cornish expat Philip Harper, the first non-Japanese tōji or Master Sake Brewer. His ‘3U’ approach (unfiltered, undiluted, unpasteurised) means his range is all nama. The Red Label from Kyoto uses ambient yeasts and delivers a bold profile that can pair with meats and strong cheese. Alc 21%

Tsuji Honten Evolution

£30/720ml, Tengu Sake

Containing only heritage rice variety Omachi, and unfiltered, unpasteurised and undiluted, this experimental sake is brewed using the ancient bodaimoto technique – so it’s really one of a kind. Medium-bodied, rippled with ripe fruit flavour and flecked with nuttiness and sweet spice, it’s higher in acidity and very precise. Alc 16%

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If sake is an acquired taste, then the world is divided into two kinds of people: those who have acquired the taste and those yet to acquire it.

For wine lovers especially, you will find many familiar elements in sake – similar or slightly higher alcohol levels, fruitiness ranging from floral and citrusy to savoury, earthy and tropical (but with generally much milder acidity), and diverse styles that include vibrant sparkling to sherry-like aged versions.

Our ability to identify the flavours of wine and our understanding of how the final drink is shaped by the raw material – from grape varieties to rice varieties and polishing ratios – together with the delicate adjustments made by the winemaker or Toji (master brewer), put us in an advantageous position to explore and appreciate sake. Let’s begin the journey by briefly talking about the basics.

Scroll down for our sake recommendations

The basics

Sake just means alcohol (酒) in Japan, whereas the rice-based drink that we know as sake is in fact called ‘Nihonshu 日本酒’, Japanese alcohol made from rice. Derived from ancient China, rice-based alcohol beverages have been made in Japan for over 1,000 years.

Many (some say 100) varieties of rice can be used for sake production. The most widely used sake rice include Yamadanishiki 山田錦, Gohyakumangoku 五百万石 and Miyamanishiki 美山錦. These are deemed most suitable for making sake due to the large percentage of the ‘white heart 心白’ – or the starch in the core.

Sake generally weighs in at around 15–20% abv (so not too far from wine), depending on the style and production method. It has just a fifth of the acidity of wine. What it lacks in wine’s crisp, refreshing acid bite, however, it more than makes up for in texture, subtlety of flavour and diversity of style.

Polishing

Quality grades are determined by the polishing ratio, or ‘Semai Buai 精米歩合’. This ratio indicates how much of the rice grain is milled away, removing the protein and fat on the translucent exterior, before the starchy core is revealed and ready to be converted by the koji mould to fermentable sugar.

Generally speaking, sake gets more expensive when more rice is milled away (at a lower polishing ratio) and tends to showcase a more delicate, fruity aroma profile. However, it’s worth noting that the milling ratio isn’t necessarily an indicator of quality. The savoury, punchy rice flavours from protein and fat, which are considered an impurity, may well be the desired style for some producers.

Fermentation

Perhaps the most significant contribution to the style and flavour comes from the aims and techniques of the ‘Toji 杜氏’, the master brewer.

For the most common production method, the rice is first washed, steamed and cooled. A small proportion of the rice is then spread out on wooden tables, where the starch is broken down into fermentable sugar by the addition of koji mould spores. Subsequently, more steamed rice, yeast, and beneficial bacteria are added, allowing the simultaneous transformation of starch to sugar and sugar to alcohol.

More variations in flavour can also come from the method used to break the rice down into a sugary porridge, where slower, more traditional approaches and careful temperature control can lead to deeper and more savoury expressions.

By the end of fermentation, the brewer has the option to add alcohol to refine the flavour profiles or keep the sake ‘Junmai (purely rice or 純米)’.

Decisions at the bottling stage, such as whether to pasteurise, when to do so, and how many times, can also shape the flavour and the longevity of the final product.

Sake styles to know

Daiginjo 大吟醸 – Super premium sake with a 50% polishing ratio. Usually showcasing elegant fruity, floral perfume with great purity and finesse. If there is no indication of ‘Junmai’ on the label, it means the sake is polished by a splash of distilled alcohol.

Ginjo 吟醸 – Premium fragrant sake with a 60% polishing ratio, can have a slight hint of savoury complexity. Also contains additional alcohol if no mention of Junmai on the label.

Honjozo 本醸造 – The entrance to the premium category – made using rice polished to 70% and up to 10% alcohol – tends to yield an easy-drinking, ‘ricey’ and less aromatic sake.

Junmai 純米 – Literally, it means ‘purely rice’. It refers to sake made with nothing other than rice, water, yeast and Koji fungus. Junmai sakes, compared to styles made with added alcohol, tend to exhibit a richer mouthfeel and more savoury and complex flavours. The term, on its own, doesn’t indicate a milling ratio. When appended to Daiginjo and Ginjo, it suggests that the premium sake hasn’t been fortified with alcohol.

Futsushu 普通酒 – ‘Basic alcohol’. The basic table sake that is widely available. There are no limits to the milling ratio, the use of rice varieties, or the choice of additives (including alcohol and sugar). Quality sakes with a wide range of flavours and styles can be found in this category, and they usually offer great value.

Broadly speaking, Daiginjo and Ginjo, with their beguiling fruity and floral fragrances, tend to be popular as chilled drinks while Honjozo and generic Junmai sakes can often offer a broader range of flavour and versatility, especially when drunk with food, and can be served at a wider range of temperatures.

Our top sake picks

While a little learning can prise the gates to sake heaven ajar, only the taste will fling them open and convert you to the delights of Japan’s national drink.

Here we have listed 21 picks, fresh from the 2025 edition of the British Sake Association’s grand tasting and beyond, covering a wide range of styles and characters – all ideal for wine lovers beginning to explore the category. Kanpai!

*Prices accurate at time of publishing

Value tries under £25

Shichiken, ‘Yama No Kasumi’ Sparkling Sake

Made in the Champagne method, this is a cheerful crowdpleaser. Melon and green fruits lead the nose with a touch of steamed rice creaminess. Lightly citrusy and vibrant with generous bubbles, it is smooth in texture and light-hearted, showing plenty of honeydew melon and a hint of yuzu peel on the crisp finish. Perfect with a wide range of dishes.

£24.50 for half bottle at Amathus

Takara Shuzo, Sho Chiku Bai Shirakabegura, MIO Sparkling Sake

A cheerful, crisp sparkling sake with a polishing ratio of 69%. Blossom, melon, freshly squeezed pear juice and steamed rice perfume. Zesty citrus on the sweet and fruity palate, accompanied by notes of banana peel and egg tart. With an alcohol content of just 5%, it’s easily enjoyable. Chilling is a must.

£5.60 for 150ml and £9.90 for 300ml at Yutaka

Akashi-Tai, Junmai Sparkling Sake

The Junmai sparkling sake from Akashi-Tai was naturally fermented in the bottle to create fizz. It features aromas of freshly steamed sticky rice and jasmine blossom on the nose, followed by a crisp palate of citrus and ripe pear, with lovely acidity to balance. With alcohol content at a mere 7%, it’s easy to drink and cleansing, making it great for pairing with raw fish.

£15 for 300ml at Master of Malt

Lachamte, Sparkling Junmai Hideyoshi

This might not be one of those crisp all-rounders but it is packed with character. For anyone who prefers a more salty, earthy and lactic style of sake, this will be a treat. Extremely savoury on the nose with miso paste, soya beans, dried figs and bacon. Zingy red-berry acidity follows, with cranberry fruits, yogurt, red apple and soya leading to a lovely savoury depth on the finish. Maybe not for everyone – but at an affordable price it could be a fascinating new discovery for you.

£15 for 280ml at Suzune

Shimizu Seizaburo Shoten, ZAKU Junmai ‘Ho no Tomo’

The producer was founded in 1869 in Suzuka, Mie Prefecture, a region blessed by the springs of the Suzuka Mountains and top-quality rice from the Ise Plain. It crafts a brilliant, fruity Junmai sake with a 60% polishing ratio. Aromas of pear skin, melon, steamed rice and cereal greet the nose. The palate is smooth and sweet, reminiscent of pear drops with crisp freshness. A quaffable beauty perfect for everyday enjoyment.

£10 for 750ml at Kurashu

Sora Junmai Sake

An easy-drinking and affordable canned Junmai sake, perfect for those who’d like to give sake a try for the first time. Creamy rice porridge and yuzu zest on the nose and palate, smooth with a gentle hint of pepper, it finishes clean on the drier side. A delightful thirst cruncher at any occasion.

£6 for 180ml at Yutaka

Browse by style: Rice only (‘Junmai’)

Heavensake, Junmai 12

The Heavensake Junmai 12 marks the collaboration of Régis Camus – the acclaimed Champagne winemaker – and Hyogo-based family producer Konishi. Savoury on the nose with seaweed, salted caramel and honeydew melon. Fresh and dry on the palate with nutty umami depth and a clean finish. An affordable entry-level sake that offers an easy way to explore the range.

£29.95 for 720ml at DrinksOne

Shichiken, Junmai Ginjo Sake

A Ginjo sake at 57% polishing ratio from Yamanashi. Creamy citrus and melon with fresh blossom on the nose. The palate shows plenty of juicy melon and ripe peach with great purity and hints of savoury, ricey umami. Easy-drinking with a velvety texture (as the label ‘天鵞絨’ suggests), fresh acids and a clean finish with a touch of peppercorn. A refreshing, classic choice.

£33 for 720ml at Amathus

Nanbu Bijin, Tokubetsu Junmai

The Nanbu Bijin Brewery was founded in 1902 in Ninohe city, Iwate. This special pure rice sake has been pasteurised only once in the bottle to best preserve the complex aroma of the raw sake. With ripe yellow apple and a hint of savoury bacon on the nose, it is gentle and smooth on the palate, featuring sweet pear and melon flavours balanced by citrus peel bitterness and mild acidity.

£34.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Kay Sake, Junmai Daiginjo

A crisp, fresh Junmai Daiginjo from Niigata. Citrusy and floral with nashi pear on the nose and palate. Creamy rice pudding richness is refreshed by decent acidity, leading to a clean finish. An light-hearted, allrounder food sake.

£34.60 per bottle at Amathus

Urakasumi, Misty Bay Junmai

Established in 1724, the Urakasumi Brewery is located in the town of Shiogama on the east coast of Japan. Fresh citrus zing overlays a nose of sweet pear and peach in the ‘Misty Bay’ Junmai sake from Urakasumi. The sake uses rice milled down to 65%, featuring a pure and soft palate of sticky rice cake and mellow pear liqueur, with a lovely line of acidity to refresh. The finish is dry and clean, with umami notes lingering on.

£35.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Dassai, 39 Junmai Daiginjo

The number ‘39’ indicates the polishing ratio and also hints at the style of this classy, refined Junmai Daiginjo from Dassai. Delicate and fruity on the nose with creamy melon, mango, pear and white blossom. Sitting on the drier side, the 39 entices with lovely freshness on a silky, well-integrated palate of white and yellow fruits, finishing with a pinch of white pepper.

£42.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Daimon, Rikyubai Hanzaemon

At the summit of Daimon brewery’s Rikyubai range, the name ‘Hanzaemon’ pays tribute to the brewery’s founder – the ancestor of the current Toji. Banana peel, yogurt and a touch of peppermint on the nose. Generous and warm exotic fruits, rice pudding and some yellow fruits on the palate, dusted with hints of sweet spices. A Junmai Daiginjo with a polishing ratio of 50%.

£42.50 for 720ml at More Sake

Shirakabegura, Junmai Daiginjo

The Junmai Daiginjo sake is made using 100% Yamadanishiki rice (milled down to 45%) and the water of Miyamizu. Red berry candy and banana on the nose, followed by gentle, pure sweetness of steamed rice and honeydew melon, with a fragrant, lingering finish.

£42.99 for 640ml at London Sake

Akashi Tai, Junmai Daiginjo Genshu

A constant resident in my fridge – this is a comforting Genshu (undiluted) Junmai Daiginjo with fantastic purity and floral charm. With a milling ratio of 38%, it boasts ripe nashi pear, melon, yuzu citrus and yogurt on the nose. Lovely citrusy freshness sits behind a mouthful of honeydew melon, rice pudding and banana peel. A satisfying sipping sake that is enjoyable even for those who are not familiar with the category.

£25.95 for 300ml at Lea & Sandeman and £47.25 for 720ml at Master of Malt

Essence 5 by Chartier, Drunk Monkey

The ‘Essence 5’ range was created by aroma specialist François Chartier. The ‘Drunk Monkey’ was crafted in collaboration with Nagayama Sake using 100% Yamada Nishiki rice at a 40% polishing ratio. Fresh and fruity on the nose with citrus, green apple peel and jasmine blossom. Silky on the palate with ripe melon, refreshed by decent natural acidity. Easy-drinking purity with hints of umami toward the finish.

£48.90 for 500ml at Mai Sake

Essence 5 by Chartier, Yamazaru Aged Sake 2019

Most sakes are made for drinking fresh but some are also capable of ageing, as this one shows. Made by the same producer of the ‘Drunk Monkey’, the ‘Yamazaru (mountain monkey)’ offers a savoury, complex style derived from six years of ageing in steel tanks. Citrusy yogurt on the nose with pronounced savoury notes of salted caramel and butterscotch. Rich and rounded on the creamy palate with rice porridge, melon, banana peel and sweet spices, backed by fantastic freshness. Complex but clean.

£59.25 for 720ml at Mai Sake

Kanpai, ‘Tori’ Junmai Daiginjo

With only 500 bottles crafted by this London-based craft sake producer, this is a serious treat for enthusiasts curious about a UK expression of Junmai Daiginjo. Ricey, savoury notes are underlined by ripe yellow fruits with hints of yogurt. Smooth and juicy on the palate with lovely freshness. An abundance of rice pudding garnished with yuzu and green apple peel. Minerality is the key point of difference here – thanks to the mineral-rich water in the UK – which tends to result in more ‘aggressive’ fermentation, according to the producer.

£60 for 750ml at Kanpai London Craft Sake

Opt for the producer’s more affordable Honjozo ‘Hiro’ Genshu (undiluted sake) for a more savoury, drier, bolder and more spiced option – which the producer recommends enjoying over an ice cube.

£38.00 for 750ml at Kanpai London Craft Sake

Browse by style: Fortified with alcohol (‘Honjozo’ & ‘Ginjo’)

Hatsumago, Densho Kimoto Honjozo

First founded in 1893, the brewery adopted the name ‘Hatsumago’ (meaning ‘first grandchild’ in Japanese) in 1930 following the birth of the family’s first grandchild. The producer is known for the traditional Kimoto method of sake brewing. This is a funky, vinous Honjozo sake, featuring a nose of bruised apple, miso paste and sour berry candy, which follows to the mild palate, in addition to almonds and citrus zing. Complex and fun.

£29.99 for 720ml at London Sake

Konishi Shuzo, Hiyashibori ‘Konishi Silver’ Ginjo

The Konishi family first started making sake in 1550, even earlier than the Itami region developed the technique of making ‘clear sake’. This is a fresh, welcoming entry-level sake featuring Jasmine rice, white fruits and pear blossom. Mellow, smooth and easy-drinking, relatively dry on the palate with a cleansing finish. One for food.

£21 for 720ml at Tengu Sake

Tosatsuru, Azure Ginjo Sake

Bottled in an ocean blue bottle and made using Yamada Nishiki rice, the Azure Ginjo sake from Tosatsuru has a vinous nose backed by tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango, in addition to fresh citrus. Ripe peach and steamed rice sweetness are well balanced with limey acidity, followed by a savoury, warming finish.

£44.99 for 720ml at London Sake

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In 2015, Kawai founded luxury wine bar La Terre before leaving to focus on his wine consulting business. Named Best Sommelier of the Year three times in the Singapore World Gourmet Series Award – in 2013, 2017 and 2019 – Daisuke has been inducted into the same event’s Hall of Fame for Best Sommelier. @daisuke_kawai0109

My first memorable wine experience

It was around 30 years ago and I was a young child. After an argument with my mother, I stole and opened a bottle of wine from our fridge at home – and proceeded to finish more than half the bottle, on my own. (I tried to finish it all, but couldn’t manage it, thankfully!) I don’t remember what the wine was, but I remember that it was a white wine, made in Japan, and I remember that to me it tasted dry and bitter. That was my very first wine experience.

My go-to everyday wine

Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills in Australia. Fruity, juicy and pure, with intense, fresh, grassy and citrus aromas. Still not bored after drinking it for more than 25 years!

My favourite supermarket buy

Kendall Jackson, Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay from California. Perfect balance of fresh and tropical fruits, with a kiss of vanilla from light oaking.

Most embarrassing moment at work

I find it deeply embarrassing when I cannot catch a guest’s eye before they actively seek assistance. This is tied up in my philosophy of service and hospitality. Our primary function is to provide service to our guests – even before our function as a wine professional. We should anticipate and provide for our guests’ needs before they have to look for someone to ask.

Pet hate

Laziness. All sommeliers and other waiting staff should pay attention to every detail of everything, for every second during service, giving 100%.

My death row food and wine pairing

Of course Champagne! Laurent-Perrier’s elegant Grand Siècle Itération 20 – this iteration is old and very hard to find, as the current release is Itération 26. Paired with sushi, as it is my country’s traditional dish.

Best food and wine match at my restaurant

A simple Sherry, Bodegas Barbadillo Pastora Manzanilla Pasada en Rama, with aged jamón Ibérico bellota. The wine has the perfect balance of freshness and yeasty depth, and brings out the jamón’s umami character. Heavenly.

My fallback quick after-work meal (and wine match)

Asian-style noodles with Tiger beer, since I am in Singapore!

Wine on my list I am most proud of

Château Figeac 1977. I had two bottles in stock, one of which a regular guest ordered and shared with me. I will always recall the intense aromas of rose petals, black fruits and aged tea leaves. Charming acidity, a velvety texture and a long finish. I brought some back from the château when I visited.

The wine on my list that surprises guests

Les Arums de Lagrange, a white wine made by Bordeaux’s Château Lagrange. Sauvignon Blanc-dominant, blended with Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, it’s beautifully balanced and has floral, citrus and vanilla aromas with a fresh texture. Guests are often surprised that dry white Bordeaux can be so good.

Wines I would avoid ordering from a restaurant list

Older vintages of white wines made for drinking young. Unfortunately, not all wine lists are rigorously managed, and sometimes white wines that are past their best are still in stock and on the list.

Wine style I’m most excited about

Franciacorta from Italy. These traditional-method DOCG sparkling wines come in different styles, but you don’t see them a lot as they aren’t widely exported. This applies especially to the Riserva bottlings, which are a must-try for their biscuity, buttery, nutty, amazing autolytic character.

Wine region that offers the greatest value for money

Still in Italy, Alba in Piedmont. Barolos and Barbarescos made by lesser-known producers can offer great value and enjoyment. But simple Barberas can also be delicious – medium-bodied wines with good acidity that can be enjoyed with friends and paired with so many dishes.

My favourite wine region to visit

It’s not a single region, but I’ll say England. I visited Ridgeview in East Sussex in 2023, Black Chalk in Hampshire in 2024 and Gusbourne in Kent in 2025, and am now looking for another vineyard to visit in 2026! While I’m in the UK, I always try to get to La Trompette in west London.

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The St. Pierre family founded ASC Fine Wines in 1996, and it grew into one of China’s largest wine importers.

Suntory purchased the company 15 years ago, but the founders have now completed a deal to buy ASC Fine Wines back from the Japanese group.

The long-anticipated deal was finalised on 2 June after both parties formally signed the share purchase documents.

Don St. Pierre Jr., executive chairman and CEO, who co-founded the company with his father, said on Tuesday: ‘Today marks both a homecoming and a springboard into the future.’

He unveiled a new strategy called ASC NextGen, which is designed to meet the next wave of opportunity for wine sales in China. ‘ASC NextGen is about scaling our legacy with renewed energy, agility and innovation,’ he said.

The revamped strategy focuses on three pillars:

• Reinforcing ASC’s traditional distribution strengths across major cities and online retailers.
• Expanding direct to consumer sales, primarily via digital tools, social media and a newly launched membership club called The VintEdge Society.
• Introducing brand partnerships tailored to meet China’s complex market dynamics.

ASC has partnered with a renowned logistics group called GFS in a bid to deliver upon this bold new vision. GFS will provide dedicated infrastructure and warehouse support across 23 of China’s largest cities.

‘Our collaboration ensures quality, reliability and innovation at every step of the wine journey,’ said Jianmin Yu, chairman of GFS.

The ASC portfolio features more than 1,200 labels, which have been sourced from more than 100 wineries, including famous names like Vega Sicilia and Banfi.

Monica Xu St. Pierre, lead director at ASC, added: ‘This is about unlocking the full potential of our people and our culture, while shaping a sophisticated wine experience in China.’

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Known for its subtle, semi-aromatic character and, increasingly, its versatility, Koshu has been gaining attention in Western markets with limited but growing distribution in the UK and US.

From the classic crisp and ethereal style to more textured ‘sur lie’ expressions, the pink-skinned grape is now used to produce a wide range of wines, including sparkling and orange.

The best examples are earning top awards at international competitions. The most recent was the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards, where Suntory’s Tomi Koshu 2022 became the first Japanese wine to achieve the top accolade – Best in Show. Koshu Misawa Vineyard, the flagship cuvée from boutique family producer Grace Wine, was also among Decanter’s top-scoring wines last year.

Scroll down to see 13 Koshu wines to try

Read on to explore the history of Koshu and discover 13 Koshu wines worth seeking out, recently tasted at the annual Koshu of Japan event in London.

Yamanashi, home of Koshu

Koshu is a native Japanese grape variety that has been grown domestically for centuries, but has only been used for winemaking since 1874. It was considered to have originally come from China via the Silk Road, according to the domestic trade organisation, Koshu of Japan.

The name ‘Koshu (甲州)’ comes from the ancient kingdom of ‘Kai (甲斐)’, which is located in the area now known as the Yamanashi prefecture. It now covers 480 hectares (ha) of vineyards in Japan, with 95% grown in the Yamanashi prefecture, in the shadow of Mount Fuji.

According to local legend, there are two tales about how the Koshu grape was discovered.

The first is that during the Nara period (AD 710-784), a well-respected monk named Gyōki had a dream of Bhaisajyaguru (the Buddha of healing and medicine), who was holding a bunch of grapes. Gyōki made a wooden sculpture depicting what he saw and on his way to deliver the sculpture to Daizenji Temple in Katsunuma town, he discovered a grape vine. Assuming this was a divine gift, Gyōki used it for medicinal purposes.

The other version of the story is less mysterious. In 1186, a Katsunuma villager named Kageyu found an unusual species of wild grape on his way back from a religious ritual. He took the seeds and planted them in his own farmland. Five years later, the vine finally started to produce purple-red fruit. Legend has it that Kageyu presented the Koshu grape to Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first Shōgun of the Kamakura government.

Koshu was seen as a table grape for centuries, until 1870, when a monk and a businessman joined forces to start making wine in a temple. They decided to give winemaking a try as they had seen Westerners drinking grape wine in Yokohama, then a major port and base of foreign trade in Japan.

Inspired by the soybean press used for making miso paste, they brought in their own wooden hand press, as well as large sake barrels to store their wines.

In 1877, Katsunuma established its own winemaking company literally named ‘the Great Japanese Wine (大日本葡萄酒会社)’, and sent two young pioneers, Takano Masanari (高野正誠) and Tsuchiya Ryuken (土屋龍憲), to study viticulture and oenology in France. This move marked the dawn of modern winemaking in Japan, as recorded by the official textbook of Japan Sommelier Association.

Viticulture

In 2004, UC Davis conducted DNA research on Koshu and confirmed its status as vitis vinifera. It is believed to have travelled from Europe via the Silk Road to China and then to Japan.

The vast majority of Koshu grapes are produced in Yamanashi – Japan’s ‘Home of Fruits’ at the foothills of Mount Fuji – which features volcanic soils with clay, gravel and silt.

In his 2023 Expert’s Choice, Hayato Kojima reported a production of 3,300 tonnes in the region in 2018, based on figures provided by Japan’s national tax agency – although not all of the production is used for winemaking.

According to the prefecture’s official site, the region had 400ha of Koshu grapes planted by 2015.

Being a major fruit-producing region in Japan for over 1,000 years, Yamanashi is one of the driest regions in the nation. Even so, the average rainfall in Katsunuma town can reach over 1,000mm per year, with nearly 80% of that falling during the growing season.

Sufficient rain, combined with a high-vigour grape variety, makes yield control difficult for growers.

Traditionally, both issues are addressed by training the vines high above the ground on an X-shaped pergola system, with long cordon pruning applied as a more recent, easier-to-manage alternative. Pioneering producers such as Grace Wine and Suntory’s Tomi no Oka Winery are also trialling a vertical shoot positioning (VSP) system, and are already achieving impressive results.

Although Koshu grapes have thick skins, to better protect them from continuous rain, traditionally growers adorn individual bunches with ‘hats’ (mostly made from wax paper), showcasing an incredible display of attention to detail. Modern methods such as overarching plastic rain covers are also used as a less labour-intensive way to keep these pinkish bunches dry and healthy.

Flavour profile

For much of its history, Koshu was crafted as a sweet and fruity wine – until the 1980s, when local producers began exploring drier expressions and ‘sur lie’ styles.

A delicate, semi-aromatic grape, Koshu typically lends itself to refreshing still and sparkling wines with subtle notes of yuzu, kabosu (Japanese lime), pear blossom and steamed rice. Its bright yet unobtrusive acidity lends a sense of purity and finesse.

When aged on the lees or in used barrels, Koshu gains body, texture, more umami depth and even a gentle grip. Extended skin contact reveals more red fruit characteristics, often taking on an orange hue.

Winemakers tend to eschew excessive new oak, allowing the grape’s pristine, understated elegance to shine.

With its elegant profile, Koshu is a natural companion to seafood and the more subtle, umami-rich Japanese dishes – with sushi and tempura among the top options.

Koshu wine: 13 bottles to try

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Two of the headline lots featuring The Macallan whisky failed to sell in Bonhams’ online auction in Hong Kong, with Japanese whiskies instead tempting buyers.

Neither The Red Collection nor The Reach found new homes during the sale, which began on 15 November and ended on St Andrew’s Day, the national holiday commemorating Scotland’s patron saint, on 30 November.

The Red Collection featured 40, 50, 60, 71, 74, 77 and 78-year-old whiskies, and marked the first time that the seven-bottle set had gone on sale through Bonhams.

The collection carried a pre-sale estimate of between HK$5,000,000 (£503,000) and HK$7,500,000 (£755,000).

The Reach, Macallan’s second-oldest release, was distilled in 1940 and bottled when it was 81 years old.

The three hands that form its stand – which was created by Scottish sculptor Saskia Robinson – represent current master whisky maker Kirsteen Campbell, former Macallan chairman Allan Shiach, and distillery workers from the 1940s.

Its pre-sale estimate stood at between HK$1,300,000 (£131,000) and HK$1,800,000 (£181,000).

Mark Littler, an independent whisky broker and consultant, said: ‘Sadly I’m not surprised these lots didn’t sell.

‘When The Red Collection launched in 2020, the market was strong, but the near impossibility of acquiring key age statements like the 60 year old made completing a full set challenging, leading to waning interest.

‘Subsequent re-releases of age statements, such as the 40 year old, have contributed to the perception of the series as open ended, reducing its appeal to collectors.’

He added: ‘The Reach debuted at the height of the market in 2022 but has since seen prices fall dramatically – from nearly £400,000 early in 2023 to £130,000 by year-end.

‘Much of the earlier value growth in modern whisky – post 2015 – was driven by speculative buying.

‘Following the market correction, collectors now focus on truly rare bottles.

‘While this presents excellent opportunities for informed buyers, many still lack the confidence to navigate the current landscape.’

Other Macallan lots did find buyers, with a Lalique 60 year old selling for HK$450,000 (£45,300), a Lalique 57 year old fetching HK$375,000 (£37,800), and Lalique 55 year old also going under the hammer for HK$375,000 (£37,800).

A bottle of 48-year-old Johnnie Walker Masters of Flavour blended Scotch whisky also changed hands for HK$150,000 (£15,100).

The sale marked the opening of Bonhams’ Asia head office. While the two star Macallan lots floundered, Japanese whiskies proved popular during the online Hong Kong auction.

The Hibiki 40 Year Old, the oldest blended whisky made by spirits giant Suntory, sold for HK$425,000 (£42,800), towards the upper end of its HK$340,000 (£34,200) to HK$500,000 (£50,300) valuation.

The blend drew on whiskies from each of Suntory’s Japanese distilleries – Chita, Hakushu, and Yamazaki.

Eighteen lots featuring Hanyu’s playing card series – which the auction house described as ‘one of Japan’s most coveted whisky series’ – also went under the hammer.

A spokeswoman for Bonhams told Decanter: ‘The top two Macallan lots were not sold; however, we saw notable results for Japanese whiskies in this auction, including the Hibiki 40 Year Old, which sold for HK$425,000.

‘Additionally, all 18 bottles of the Hanyu Ichiro cards offered were sold, with a combined price above estimate.

‘In particular, Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt – King of Diamonds – first edition sold for HK$525,000, and Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt – Ace of Spades – first edition sold for HK$325,000, both exceeding their high estimates.’

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Bonhams has set an estimate of €700,000 to €1,200,000 (£586,000 to £1,004,000) for the Hanyu Ichiro Full Card Series.

The collection comprises 54 bottles, each of which has been signed by renowned master distiller Ichiro Akuto.

Amayès Aouli, global head of wine and spirits at Bonhams, said: ‘This is an incredible opportunity to acquire the most collectible of Japanese whiskies, with excellent provenance.

‘For each bottle to be personally signed by the master distiller, Ichiro Akuto, makes this set truly unique.’

Isouji Akuto, a 19th generation descendant of a long line of sake brewers, founded Hanyu distillery in 1941. His goal was to produce high-quality single malts, inspired by the finest Scotch whisky.

Hanyu distillery ceased production in 2000, but not before his grandson, Ichiro Akuto, secured approximately 400 casks.

Ichiro Akuto, who inherited his grandfather’s passion for whisky, used the remaining spirits to create the Full Card Series.

The series comprises 54 bottles, which are designed to represent the 54 cards in a full deck (including two jokers).

Each ‘card’ was bottled from a single cask of whisky laid down between 1985 and 2000. The single malts were released between 2005 and 2014, but they are now extremely rare, and it is unusual for one collector to hold an entire ‘deck’.

According to Bonhams, only a few sets of the full series exist. In 2015, Bonhams became the first auction house to sell a complete Hanyu Full Card Series. It sold for HK$3,797,500 (£377,000), which was a world record for Japanese whisky.

Bonhams sold the Full Card Series again in 2019, fetching HK$7,192,000 (£713,000). The auction house then set a new world record in 2020, when it sold the Hanyu Card Series for HK$11,890,600 (£1,180,000).

Now Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in Paris has secured another Hanyu Full Card Series, which was painstakingly assembled by a private collector.

Clément Gaillard, a spirits specialist at Bonhams, said: ‘With only a finite number produced, it is one of the most sought-after whisky collections across the globe. To own this series is to own an extraordinary piece of whisky history.

The action will begin online at Bonhams on 12 November, and it will conclude on 29 November.

Ichiro Akuto now runs the esteemed Chichibu Distillery in Saitama Prefecture, and he is regarded as a driving force behind Japanese whisky’s renaissance.

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Japanese whisky enthusiasts will recognise Nikka – one of Japan’s most respected and long-standing distilleries.

Founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, who was inspired by Scotch whisky, Nikka has spent 90 years perfecting its craft. At this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) in Singapore, Diego Araud, director of La Maison du Whisky, will lead a tasting of five unique Nikka expressions, showcasing the distillery’s innovation.

Here Ch’ng Poh Tiong catches up with Araud ahead of his DFWE appearance.

Japanese whisky has taken the world by storm in the last few years. Why has this occurred?

I think there are a few reasons Japanese whisky has completely exploded in the past 15 years. Actually, Japanese whisky is not something that just started 20 years ago although it has taken a good five years to be on everyone’s lips. Japanese whisky has been around for about 100 years. And that’s what we’re celebrating this year with the 90th anniversary of Nikka Whisky, going back through the history of this wonderful producer.

So, it’s actually a much older craft than what most people think. It’s true it has been a massive success in the past 10, 15, maybe 20 years. I think the reason is because overall whisky has been doing very, very well all over the world during that time. American whiskey is taking a little bit longer, but it’s exploded in the past few years as well. We see Irish whiskey coming back on the map. It’s been a really great time for the spirit.

As it started being a bit more international, we started seeing some whiskies making their way through competitions and winning awards. Those whiskies were really, really well made by people who care about quality that also has a certain subtlety. What they were looking for in the taste of whisky is the balance and, in the blending expertise, very fine expressions. Eventually the world just discovered something of super high quality that they’d never seen before. People were laughing maybe a couple of years ago, like, whisky is not meant to be made in Japan. It’s meant to be made in Scotland or in Ireland. And two years later, it’s like, well, have you tried Japanese whisky? It’s the best in the world. And of course, some very good marketing placement. Hibiki really had a breakthrough when featured in the movie Lost in Translation

When it comes to Nikka, there was this show in Japan talking about the life of Masataka Taketsuru. So Nikka exploded as well in Japan at the same time it was getting really hyped up outside Japan. So altogether a lot more consumption, a lot less stock. With globalisation, in the past 20 years, Japanese culture has attained a kind of cult status. In Singapore, it might not be as obvious as in other parts of the world, but in France, Japan was, and still is, very exotic.

What are the differences and similarities between Japanese and Scotch whisky?

I would say it’s very similar to Scotch whisky. Kind of follows exactly the same guidelines of the definition of Scotch. The raw ingredients are the same, the production is pretty much the same. So is the ageing. They abide by the same rules.

If you blind taste a Japanese whisky and a Scotch whisky, it’s very hard to tell the origin. It’s not exactly like wine and it’s not just Japanese and Scotch whisky. I think as long as you’re talking about the same style of whisky, such as a single malt, for example, it’s very hard to tell its origin. Except for a few expressions that might be typical of a producer. But otherwise it’s really hard to tell. So, in that sense, Japanese and Scotch whisky are made the same way, using the same ingredients. One of the men behind Japanese whisky being Masataka Taketsuru whom we will be talking about during the masterclass, he really brought his craft from Scotland. That’s where he learnt how to produce Scottish whisky.

What he knew was to produce a whisky that is quite similar to Scotch whisky. There are differences though.

The approach of Japanese people as a whole is very perfectionist, always looking for the best possible balance. At this stage when they learn about whisky, it was already in the modern time. There were scientists behind Masataka Taketsuru so that means they really had an understanding of what made whisky and how to make the best possible whisky.

Eventually they really perfected the craft, like finding the exact balance, finding the right degree of alcohol, and the right combination of flavours. Plus with their culinary culture, they have a very developed palate. They could go into the fine details of finding the expression that would be perfect for them. Taste, however, is always very subjective. That’s also the reason Suntory and Nikka went separate ways. Masataka Taketsuru wanted to remain very Scottish in style. Something a little bit stronger, a little bit heavier, oilier. And Tori-san wanted to make a whisky that was a bit lighter, a bit more floral, and a little bit easier for the Japanese palate. Altogether as a whole, Japanese whisky is well known for being very balanced, a bit lighter, a bit more subtle.

What discoveries will participants make at your masterclass of the six Nikka whiskies?

I hope they will gain a deeper understanding of Nikka’s history – that’s the main focus of our discussion. I also hope they will gain more insight into the broader world of whisky. I think for true connoisseurs, there will be a lot of subtlety that they will experience. But maybe for those more in the wine industry, who may think of the world of whisky as one big thing, they may discover it has so many little doors that can open to so many incredible stories – how raw materials, production methods and aging process, all have an impact on the final product. On top of talking about Nikka, we will be talking about whisky as a whole.

And then obviously, there will be a little surprise in this masterclass, which is something very exclusive that I would imagine no one has yet tried. It will be very, very valuable.

Buy final tickets for the Nikka Whisky masterclass

Watch: A Message from Diego Araud

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore

Date: Saturday 26 October 2024 from 11am to 5:30pm

Location: 22 Orange Grove Road 258350 Singapore

Price: Grand Tasting tickets SGD 165 | Masterclass tickets SGD 167 – SGD 600

All prices are subject to 9% government tax.

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Two of the most important attributes for a great whisky blender are patience and knowledge. So it’s little surprise that Ichiro Akuto – of Hanyu and Chichibu fame – is one of the driving forces of today’s Japanese whisky renaissance.

Akuto represents the 21st generation of his family to produce alcohol. His ancestors started brewing sake around 1625, before moving into whisky production in 1946. However that thread could easily have been severed in the year 2000.

By this time, Akuto had come to assist his father in running Hanyu; but too late. The distillery shut down in 2000 and was demolished four years later. Akuto was left with 400 unwanted casks of whisky and little else.

Taking a gamble

A stroke of marketing genius transformed his fortunes. The launch of the hugely successful Playing Card series of Hanyu releases in 2005 created a franchise that was to become a darling of the auction rooms in the years that followed.

Fast forward to 2008, and Akuto opened the tiny Chichibu Distillery. Surrounded by mountains, about 80km north-west of Tokyo, it was the first new whisky distillery to open in Japan for 35 years.

As the demise of Hanyu indicated, Japan’s great love of whisky had dimmed from its peak in the early 1980s to a nadir around 2007. It was a brave – some would say foolish – time to start up a new distillery.

‘What Ichiro did was to visit about 2,000 whisky bars in Japan, all by himself, over a period of about two years,’ explains Yumi Yoshikawa, Chichibu global brand ambassador. ‘He found so many people enjoying whisky even then – and they were not just drinking one whisky, but comparing three or four.’

Attention to detail

That research gave Akuto the confidence that his approach was the right one. He focused on small-scale production, with attention to the finest details of raw materials, distillation and maturation.

Soon Chichibu – and the adjacent releases of Akuto’s innovative, flavour-led blends – earned a cult reputation. Many of those blends were ‘world’ whiskies combining different origins. Their cult status was only reinforced by their scarcity.

A second, much larger (by Chichibu standards) distillery opened in 2019. It was capable of producing more than four times the amount of spirit. ‘Sometimes people are worried when they hear we have opened a second distillery,’ says Yoshikawa. ‘“Oh, you are making more volume, but less quality.” But we needed more characters in the warehouse.’

A highly promising cask sample from the second distillery – nothing has yet been commercially released – suggests that it will take the original Chichibu’s scented, fruit-forward distillate and add some structure and heft from the use of direct fire to heat the stills.

Innovation and creativity

The trademark Akuto approach to whisky-making combines a no-fear exploration of new ideas and techniques – think world blends and a wide array of cask types – with a truly artisanal style. That style encompasses local barley and floor malting.

Ichiro – he has something new in his head every year,’ says Yoshikawa. ‘Every whisky has different flavours, but we always want to show the character of the distillate.’

That ‘something new’ in Akuto’s head currently is a third distillery. The new grain distillery, called Tomakomai, is scheduled to open in Hokkaido in 2025. There’s already talk of a Coffey still, the use of locally grown maize and a production level that will dwarf the Chichibus.

It’s now been two decades since Hanyu was demolished. In that time Japanese whisky has gone from an ailing industry, just beginning to make its mark on the international awards scene, to one of the most sought-after whisky origins on the planet.

Yoshikawa recalls: ‘When Ichiro started, people said: “Not many people are enjoying whisky now. Why don’t you make wine or shochu?” But he kept going, and kept telling his story in Japan and around the world – and he opened up the new era of Japanese whisky. If Ichiro didn’t try, maybe things would be different.’

Top Chichibu whiskies to try

Chichibu Red Wine Cask 2023

A marriage of 36 casks, mostly ex-bourbon, finished in an eclectic mix of wine barrels. There’s Pinot Noir from Burgundy and New Zealand, Napa Cabernet and red wine/Muscat from Japan. Remarkably delicate and fragrant, floral at first, but soon notably fruit-forward, with redcurrant and wild strawberry to the fore. Excellent mouthfeel and grip, with a touch of yellow fruit from the spirit and a lifting prickle of menthol. An opulent whisky. Alcohol 50.5%

Chichibu The London Edition 2024

The seventh in a series of annual releases, with the accent on maturation in former bourbon barrels, plus a little red wine cask too. The distillate is on show, with flavours of peach and nectarine, undercut by sandalwood and a whisper of smoke. A rounded mid-palate is full of pâtisserie notes of rich cream and brioche, with a little light spice. Full of youthful appeal. Alc 50.5%

Ichiro’s Malt & Grain World Blended Whisky

A masterclass of the blender’s art, this globetrotter combines malt and grain whiskies from Japan, Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the US. Delicate notes of honeysuckle, creamy citrus and cereal on the nose, malted milk on the fruit-forward palate – apple, pear – then butterscotch from the grain and light brown sugar. Sweet, but never cloying. Alc 46.5%

Ichiro’s Malt Double Distilleries

Past meets present in this crowd-pleasing blend of spirits from Hanyu and Chichibu. A thread of scented fruit plays against perfumed aromas of pot-pourri and face powder, with smoke lurking at the back. As the power builds on the palate, the smoke asserts itself with great intensity, accompanied by green apple. Robust but balanced. Alc 46.5%

Ichiro’s Malt MWR Mizunara Wood Reserve

Another world whisky, this blended malt was finished in virgin Japanese mizunara oak for a year. Cream-accented apple and pear fruit leads into notes of baking spices and perfumed sandalwood. Punchy on the palate, with a hint of smoke in the background, this is a more linear whisky, given a firm, but never austere, structure by the mizunara. Alc 46.5%

Ichiro’s Malt Wine Wood Reserve

A blended ‘world whisky’ that combines Scottish spirit with Chichibu, finished in Bordeaux red wine casks. The vinous character is front-and-centre here, with spicy plum and black cherry fruit. The wood gives the palate great structure and not a little power. There’s a touch of woodsmoke, but the overall effect is sweetly appealing – and just a little jammy. Alc 46.5%

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Chief blender Shinji Fukuyo used whisky from the company’s Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita distilleries to create this exclusive blend.

Hibiki 40 Year Old is described as ‘the pinnacle of generations of learning and craftsmanship, and a unique and incredibly rare embodiment of the finest standards of Japanese mastery, making a statement of the spirit of innovation at The House of Suntory.’

Just 400 bottles of this limited-edition whisky will be released on a global basis, selling for $35,000 (£33,150) per bottle.

Suntory, which last year celebrated its 100th anniversary, bills Hibiki 40 Year Old as ‘a perfectly harmonious blend’ that delivers ‘a gorgeous taste with layers of unprecedented aroma and mellowness’.

The blend features whiskies aged in Mizunara, Spanish and American oak, which provides complexity, subtle sweetness and smoothness.

On the nose, Hibiki 40 is said to offer aromas of loquat, dry lemon peel and clove, while whisky lovers can look forward to acacia honey and dry fig on the palate, and an aromatic aftertaste.

Fukuyo said the whisky has ‘a sense of subduedness, like that of an old temple, and a wabi-sabi patina due to the long ageing process’.

He added: ‘I would like people to enjoy the pure aroma that has been sharpened over the years; the tranquillity of old temples and storehouses and the nostalgic warm feeling that accompanies them.’

Artist Eriko Horiki crafted the washi label on the Hibiki 40 Year Old box, which is made from 12 different types of Japanese wood and has 12 faces, representing the 12 months of the year.

The bottle is made from crystal glass and decorated with traditional Japanese maki-e, mother-of-pearl inlay, and gold lacquer designed to pay homage to Suntory’s heritage and tradition.

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Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, Nikka Whisky – and indeed the entire Japanese whisky category – owes its existence to one man: Masataka Taketsuru. The company’s founder was born in Takehara, Hiroshima, in 1894.

His family had owned a sake brewery since 1733 and he was destined to join the business before he encountered Western-style spirits, while studying fermentation techniques at Osaka Technical School. ‘I want to make this,’ his notes recorded. ‘Once I started thinking that way, I couldn’t resist temptation.’

Landing a job with spirits producer Settsu Shuzo in Osaka, in 1918, the final year of the First World War, he was sent to Scotland to learn about Scotch whisky. Taketsuru was the first person from Japan ever to do this; at the time it was an arduous journey, taking over 50 days by ship and rail.

Chemistry courses at Glasgow University were followed by short apprenticeships with distilleries including Longmorn in Elgin, Bo’ness – where he learned to distil grain whisky in a Coffey still – and Hazelburn in Campbeltown. The result was a series of notebooks, hand-written and with meticulous diagrams. These ‘Taketsuru Notes’ became Japan’s first manual for whisky production.

Buy tickets to the Nikka Whisky masterclass at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Singapore 2024 

Japan’s first whisky

In the wake of the economic turmoil that followed the First World War, Settsu Shuzo abandoned its plans to produce whisky. But Shinjiro Torii of Kotobukiya (later renamed Suntory) had similar designs. In 1923 he hired Taketsuru to oversee the building of Yamazaki Distillery on the outskirts of Kyoto. As distillery manager Taketsuru produced the first Japanese whisky – Suntory Shirofuda – in 1929.

Taketsuru had returned to Japan with more than his notebooks however… In Glasgow he fell in love with local lass Rita Cowan. ‘A lady was staring at me with round, beautiful eyes. That was Rita,’ he noted in his diary. Later confessing: ‘It was love at first sight.’ The pair married in Glasgow in 1920.

Rita immediately immersed herself in Japanese culture, learning the language and also how to cook Japanese food. Importantly, she also supported Taketsuru in his dream of opening his own distillery, which happened in 1934. The couple had settled in Yoichi in Japan’s northern island, Hokkaido – chosen for its resemblance to Campbeltown, bordered by mountains and the sea.

Nikka is born

Initially making apple products as Dai Nippon Kaju – ‘Great Japanese Juice Company’ – Taketsuru was also busy designing the first pot still to be manufactured in Japan. It was installed at Yoichi Distillery in 1936 and Nikka Whisky was released in 1940. Nikka, short for Nippon Kaju, later became the company name.

Today Yoichi is distinctive for being one of the last distilleries in the world that still heats its stills with direct coal fire. This is said to impart a signature toastiness to the aromas of its malts. Yoichi was also selected as an ideal location because Taketsuru found peat nearby in the local Ishikari Plain. The company still owns a peat bog there, though these days malted, peated barley is imported from countries such as Australia and Germany to produce Nikka’s whiskies.

Following its initial release of Nikka Whisky, the Yoichi Distillery launched Nikka Black in 1956. This was followed by Super Nikka in 1962, created as a tribute to Rita, who died in 1961.

Miyagiko Distillery

Pursuing his dreams of whisky-making alone – and inspired by the regional characters of Scotch – Taketsuru founded a second distillery, Miyagiko, near Sendai on Japan’s main Honshu island in 1969. The more southerly location lent itself to the production of lighter, more elegant whiskies to complement the bold Yoichi malts.

Miyagiko became known for its two Coffey stills, originally imported directly from Glasgow in the 1960s. They allowed for continuous distillation, increasing Nikka’s production capacity. Nikka Coffey Grain was launched in 2012, followed by Nikka Coffey Malt in 2014 – the range also includes a Gin and Vodka, all with signature minimalist labelling.

Lasting legacy

Following the death of Taketsuru in 1979, Nikka continued to evolve with iconic releases in the 1980s including Nikka from the Barrel and single malts from Yoichi and Miyagiko. The company was bought by Asashi in 2001 and is now the second-largest whisky producer in Japan behind Suntory.

With his remarkable series of pioneering ‘firsts’ Taketsuru created the blueprint for Japanese whisky, paving the way for its global recognition today. Little wonder the founder of Nikka has been dubbed the ‘Father of Japanese whisky’.

Nikka whiskies: Seven to try

Nikka Coffey Grain

Produced in one of Nikka’s continuous Coffey stills, this grain whisky is a mix of 95% corn and 5% malted barley, matured in ex-bourbon casks. That bourbon character runs through the palate, which is sweet and fruity, with notes of toffee, candied peel, tropical fruit and zesty citrus. Alc 45%

Nikka Coffey Malt

It’s highly unusual to distil 100% malt in a continuous Coffey still, but this expression (previously only released in single casks) became so popular that Nikka added it to the core range in 2014. It’s easy to understand the appeal: toasty tropical aromas dance across the nose – roasted pineapple and bananas Foster. Mango, banana and crème brûlée join in on the palate, with a long finish of woody spices. Alc 45%

Nikka Days

Made for Highballs, this light and bright style is a blend of malt and grain spirits from the Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries. Approachable and fruity, it kicks off with fresh apple and citrus aromas before the palate expands into rounder orchard fruit flavours, toffee, vanilla, gentle spice and just a whisper of peat smoke. Try it as the distillery intended: in a refreshing Highball with soda and plenty of ice. Alc 40%

Nikka from the Barrel

In its signature rectangular bottle – based on the shape of an old peat shovel – Nikka from the Barrel embodies the Nikka philosophy, blending both single malt and grain spirits from Miyagikyo and Yoichi, aged in an array of different casks, including bourbon and Sherry. Deep, complex and very rich with notes of red apple, cinnamon, butterscotch and vanilla, overlaid with woody spice; add a dash of water to open it up. Alc 51.4%

Nikka Myagiko Single Malt

This expression from Nikka’s Myagiko distillery in Sendai is a blend of single malts from different years, meaning there’s no age statement on the label. Mostly matured in ex-Sherry casks, it has rich smoky, spicy, woody aromas, with notes of citrus fruit and banana. In the mouth it’s complex and layered, with hints of dried fruit, stone fruit, malty chocolate, ginger and salted nuts, that linger on the long, soft finish. Alc 45%

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt

Named in honour of Masataka Taketsuru, this blended malt is sourced from Yoichi and Miyagiko, with a higher percentage of the latter. It spends around 10 years maturing in a variety of casks, including ex-Sherry, which adds dried fruit aromas and rich creaminess to the palate. Caramel, delicate smoke, lots of ripe fruit and spices make a satisfying dram. Alc 43%

Nikka Yoichi Single Malt

A no-age-statement blend of single malts from different years. Elegant peat smokiness is combined with fruit notes – orange, lemon, melon, pear – spices and a hint of chocolate. Rich, smooth and harmonious, with some saltiness on the lingering smoky finish that’s emblematic of the Yoichi Distillery’s direct-coal-fired stills. Alc 45% 

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Sake sales have increased nearly tenfold over the past year at Berry Bros, which is Britain’s oldest wine and spirits merchant.

Last May, the family-owned company launched its first Sake en primeur offering, which sold out within days. Berry Bros called that Sake en primeur campaign ‘a world first’.

The merchant has decided to launch a second Sake en primeur offering this month, featuring bottles from three breweries: Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, Tatenokawa and IWA 5.

They are available at the company’s new specialist spirits shop, which opened at No 1 St James’s Street in April.

The new spirits shop sits side-by-side with the established Berry Bros & Rudd store at 63 Pall Mall in London.

It sells a range of Sakes, and sales are up by nearly 1,000% in the year to March 2024, according to Berry Bros. Online searches have also increased by 300% year-on-year.

Spirits buyer Rob Whitehead said: ‘We are thrilled to offer our customers at Berry Bros & Rudd the opportunity to engage with Sake, both in our brand-new Spirits Shop and through a dedicated en primeur campaign, which challenges the traditions of Sake and customer perceptions of the drink.’

Whitehead chose Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, Tatenokawa and IWA 5 for the merchant’s second Sake en primeur campaign.

Noguchi Naohiko, a renowned Sake brewer, founded the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute in 2017. He began brewing aged 16, and he is now 91 years old. These Noguchi Sakes can be aged for decades in a cellar before opening.

Tatenokawa is a family-owned brewery with a focus on fine, floral Daiginjo Sakes, made with rice from the Yamagata region.

The IWA Sakes are created by Richard Geoffroy, the former Chef de Cave at Dom Pérignon, who has created unique Sakes that improve with age.

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The rain stopped as our high-speed train from Tokyo entered into Yamanashi Prefecture’s Kofu Basin. Changing to a local train at Kofu station, we continued northwest to Nirasaki, where we were greeted by the soft-spoken Mr Shigekazu Misawa, the fourth-generation proprietor of Grace Wine. He personally drove us on a quiet Sunday morning up the winding hills to his family vineyards 700 metres above sea level.

When we arrived at the vantage point, Mount Fuji remained hidden behind the clouds. Yet the towering mountains surrounding us rose high all around us, creating a natural rain barrier. Indeed, the Akeno site is said to enjoy the longest sunshine hours in Japan.

Scroll down to see tasting notes of the top wines from Grace

The Japanese wines that made history

This visit had been a longtime-coming for me – as I told Shigekazu. In 2013, my second year working at Decanter, I was there when Grace’s ‘Gris de Koshu’ 2012 won the Gold medal for Japanese wines at the Decanter Asia Wine Awards (now merged into the Decanter World Wine Awards).

I still remember the excitement in the conference room of Hong Kong Cyberport, when co-chair Ch’ng Poh Tiong announced the first Gold medal awarded to a Japanese wine in the history of the Decanter Awards.

The entries were tasted blind, of course. Even the panel judges and the co-chairs didn’t know the producer of the pink-skinned Koshu grape from Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan’s ‘fruit kingdom’ north of Mount Fuji. But it wasn’t long until the wine world took note of a family producer named ‘Grace’ – and the five generations of Japanese winemakers behind it.

100 years in wine

The Misawa family’s wine venture started a century ago. In 1923 – the same year as the devastating Great Kanto Earthquake – Chotaro Misawa launched his winery in Katsunuma, a small town in Yamanashi Prefecture, and began selling his wines.

The brand ‘Grace’ – inspired by The Three Graces in Greek mythology – was founded in 1953 by the third-generation owner, Kazuo. He expanded the business to establish today’s Chuo Budoshu Ltd (‘Central Wine Company’) and built underground cellars.

The fourth-generation Shigekazu worked as a ‘salaryman’ (or a white-collar worker) for nearly a decade in one of Japan’s major trading companies, Mitsubishi Shoji, before returning to the family business in 1982. Under Shigekazu, the company switched from using pergolas and introduced the Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP) system for its Koshu vines. He also oversaw the planting of a new vineyard – the Misawa Vineyard – in nearby Akeno.

In 2008, having studied winemaking in France and South Africa, Shigekazu’s daughter, Ayana, joined as Grace’s head of viticulture and winemaking, marking a new era for the family enterprise.

2009 saw the establishment of Koshu of Japan, the promotional association on a mission to export Japan’s poster white grape to the world. Grace was one of its 15 founding members and Shigekazu shouldered the responsibility of chairman.

Their activities proved fruitful; the following year, Koshu was officially registered as a wine grape by the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine), with Yamanashi granted recognition as a Geographical Indication (GI) for wine by the Japanese government in 2013.

And Grace Wine’s historical accolade in 2013 wasn’t just a fleeting moment of glory. A year later, the producer won Japan’s first Regional Trophy (now Platinum) at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) – the world’s largest wine competition – with its Cuvée Misawa Akeno Koshu 2013, followed by four Regional Trophies (Platinum) and five Gold medals in the next five years.

Grace Wine at a glance

Owner: Shigekazu Misawa (4th generation)

Winemaker: Ayana Misawa (5th generation)

Appellation: Yamanashi, Chubu Region of Japan

Vineyards: Katsunuma (Toriihira and Hishiyama), Akeno (Misawa Vineyard and Mount Kayagatake)

Plantation: 20ha own vineyard, 20ha by contract

Key grape varieties: Koshu (40%), Chardonnay (20%), Bordeaux reds (Cabernet Franc being the most important red variety)

Exports: 30% of production is exported to 15 countries and regions in 2023.

Key overseas markets: Hong Kong, UK and Australia. Also available in Singapore, Canada, Belgium, Norway and the Netherlands

The woman winemaker from Japan

Joining her father, Ayana Misawa greeted us at the Misawa Vineyard in Akeno on the chilly Sunday morning in early February. The high-altitude vineyard, first planted by her father in 2002, has since become the most significant site for Grace, responsible for its signature Misawa range.

Speaking in fluent English, Ayana explained the trailblazing viticultural techniques practiced under her careful watch. After a brief visit to the cellar, she guided us through a tasting of recent releases.

At a time when Japanese wine was entirely unknown in the world, Ayana’s father and grandfather both decided to return to the countryside for the family business, despite working in the city in their youth. Their commitment inspired her as a child, and she was always keen to help out at the winery.

However, born into a traditional winemaking family in Japan with a brother just two years younger than her, the first-born daughter wasn’t an obvious choice to assume the role of a winemaker and the next-generation proprietor. ‘My father wanted me to be a sommelier, but I always wanted to be a winemaker,’ Ayana explains.

As the pressure was initially on her younger brother, Kazushi – who was studying winemaking in California – to inherit the family enterprise, Ayana left university with a non-wine related degree. The pivotal moment in her career came when the late Professor Denis Dubourdieu visited the Yamanashi region during a project aimed at enhancing the quality of Koshu wines. His visit had a profound impact on the shift toward more scientific, modern winemaking in Yamanashi.

Encouraged by the renowned winemaker and scholar, Ayana embarked on an oenology degree at the University of Bordeaux. After honing her skills at a winemaking school in Burgundy, she went on to work and study further at Stellenbosch University in South Africa.

Into the fire

‘Welcome to hell,’ Shigekazu apparently joked as his daughter joined him back home to work full-time at the winery.

The daily chores at the family business, which included caring for owned and contracted vineyards, harvesting, monitoring fermentation, and greeting overseas visitors, were indeed hellish to handle, as Ayana recalls.

Yet, while fulfilling the responsibilities at the vineyard and winery, the knowledge-hungry young winemaker seized the opportunity to make vintages in the southern hemisphere during less busy months, working alongside producers in Australia, Chile, Argentina and New Zealand.

By 2008, the Kazunuma-born 28-year-old was ready to take over the viticulture and winemaking operation of Grace Wine and become the first woman to inherit the family business in its century-long history.

‘Japanese wine that can age’

With Shigekazu supporting the business operations and marketing aspects of the company (while Kazushi runs his own winery in Hokkaido), Ayana has set her sights on enhancing quality to fulfil the Misawa family’s long-held ambition of crafting age-worthy Japanese wines.

In a warm region with substantial annual rainfall (reaching 1,000mm), especially during flowering and harvest season, how to control the vigour while concentrating flavours is the primary challenge for quality, as multiple local producers disclosed during our visit.

For decades, Ayana and her father have been working on a solution in the vineyard. After an initial trial in 1995, Grace has gradually adopted the Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP, or 垣根仕立て in Japanese) system on its top site – the Misawa Vineyard at 700 meters altitude in Akeno. Currently, Grace cultivates four hectares of VSP-trained plantings on this 12-hectare site.

Surrounded by the Southern Alps to the west, Mount Kayagatake to the east, Mount Yatsugatake to the north and Mount Fuji to the south, the Akeno area of Hokuto prides itself on being one of the sunniest spots in Japan.

Ayana believes that compared to the widely adopted ‘X-line’-shaped overhead pergola in conventional Yamanashi vineyards, the VSP system, where fruit hangs in clusters beneath a narrow ‘curtain’ of upward-grown vine shoots, can efficiently concentrate the flavours of the vigorous Koshu grape, leading to smaller berries and higher sugar content. Meanwhile, natural malolactic fermentation was made possible due to sufficient malic acid present in the juice, which is rare for the variety.

The results are evident in Grace’s signature wine, Koshu Misawa Vineyard Akeno 2021. It was one of the few Koshus from the region that doesn’t need chaptalisation to reach 11.7% alcohol. The spectacular concentration of flavours and the textural weight were accomplished without ageing on lees – a common practice used by many Koshu producers to enrich the linear body of the grape.

Although there wasn’t an older sample to try during our visit, re-tasting this wine in five to 10 years time would be certainly be an interesting exercise.

Terroir-driven winemaking

For red wine production, Ayana is convinced that with improved viticultural and winemaking techniques, winemakers in Yamanashi today can opt for high-quality international red grapes in place of the widely planted indigenous Muscat Bailey A, which the older generation relied on for easy-drinking red wines.

She took the advice from her professor at Stellenbosch University and planted Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines on an artificial ridge she created in the Misawa Vineyard known as ‘high ridge (高畝式)’, its improved drainage enhancing water stress during the ripening season.

Cabernet Franc, with its bud break and ripening slightly earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, exhibits the highest quality potential for red wines from this site, said Ayana. Her barrel samples of Cabernet Franc exude vibrant and perfumed red berry fruits, accompanied by bright acidity and delicate, fine-boned tannins.

Besides the Misawa Vineyard range (which also includes a top-notch traditional method Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs – a must-try), it’s worth exploring Grace’s terroir-specific Koshu bottlings from the diverse microclimates across Yamanashi.

Within the realm of Akeno, ‘Kayagatake’ foothills at 400 to 700 metres altitude make some of the most delicate Koshus from Grace. Moving southeast towards the town of Katsunuma, the granite and gravel-rich ‘Hishiyama’ site at 500-600m grants more floral elegance and zesty acidity to the grape, as opposed to a riper, yellow fruit-driven profile derived from the gravel-clay soils of the sunny ‘Toriibira’ site, which used to produce the estate’s top wine (hence the ‘Private Reserve’ mark on the label).

Sustainable wine production is also on Ayana’s agenda. She refrains from the use of herbicides and chemical fertilisers while committing to reducing production waste and recycling rainwater. The winery has been trialling organic viticulture since 2016.

Now exporting 30% of its production to 15 countries and regions, Grace continues to communicate its ‘respect for nature, manners, and traditions’ through meticulous craftsmanship true to the cultural heritage of Japan. Simultaneously, as an industry pioneer for over a century, it is braving its way into a new chapter of winemaking for both Koshu and Yamanashi. Don’t look away.

Grace Wine: Six wines to try

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Koshu (‘甲州’) is a white grape variety, with a name originating from the ancient name of Yamanashi prefecture in the central south of Honshu island.

It is the most-produced wine grape in Japan, and 96% of Koshu wines are produced in the Yamanashi prefecture, where plantings are estimated at about 450ha.

Production in 2018 reached almost 3,300 tonnes in Yamanashi, according to Japan’s national tax agency (though not all used for wine production), followed by 78t in Shimane and 27t in Yamagata.

Scroll down for Hayato Kojima’s pick of 18 Koshu wines to try

The story of the origin of the Koshu grape has two versions. One is that in the early 8th century, a well-respected Buddhist monk Gyoki brought this grape to Yamanashi from Nara (the nation’s capital at that time) and planted the first Koshu vines. Another explanation is that in the late 12th century, local resident Amemiya Kageyu found some wild grapes on the way home and planted the seeds.

A recent DNA study revealed the truth of its origin; Koshu sits within the family of Vitis vinifera. Its European parent was first brought to China via the Silk Road and naturally crossed with a native Asian species now known as Vitis davidii. It is possible that the Japanese official missions (or ‘Kentoshi’) to the Chinese Tang dynasty (AD618-907) brought back this European grape.

Flavour profiles

Koshu was consumed only as a table grape in Japan for a long time until the late 1800s when people started to use it for winemaking. The grape has pinkish grey-coloured berry clusters and thick skins. The wine tends to have a pale colour, featuring delicate citrus, Nashi pear and white peach aromas with minerality. Low to medium in alcohol, it usually has racy acidity on the palate with a crisp finish.

For years, Koshu was considered a lightly textured wine best shown in an unoaked, fresh and fruity style. However, in recent years, thanks to the efforts of ambitious local winemakers, consumers have begun to find sparkling Koshu or oaked, medium- to full-bodied Koshu, or even orange Koshu in the wine shops.

The Koshu essentials

Located about 100km west of Tokyo on the northern foothills of Mount Fuji, most of Yamanashi’s vineyards are on the bottom and the hillside of the fertile Kofu Basin. White varieties account for 62% of grape plantings in Yamanashi – unsurprisingly, Koshu (85% of the whites) ranks at the top, followed by Delaware (10.3%) and Chardonnay (1.8%).

Yamanashi – Japan’s first GI for wine, granted in 2013 – is a warm region, with annual heat summation levels similar to Tuscany in central Italy and Portugal’s Douro valley. Heavy rainfalls are seen in the flowering season (June) and during harvest in September, making it hard to produce concentrated, healthy crops.

Traditionally vine-growers adopt tall trellising to cope with the humidity, with the most popular pruning system being referred to as ‘X-line’, due to the pattern it forms in the overhead pergola. Nowadays, they also adopt straight-line spur pruning for lower yields, while in some top wineries, the ‘vertical shoot positioning’ system (VSP, in which fruit hangs in clusters beneath a narrow ‘curtain’ of upward-grown vine shoots) is gaining popularity, with improved grape quality and limited yields.

In terms of food pairing possibilities, the delicate, restrained characters of Koshu pair well with the classic ‘dashi’ flavour in Japanese home-made dishes featuring an umami-rich, savoury tone extracted from seafood and konbu (sea kelp). A wide variety of sushi, plain Japanese noodles and ramen with salt-based broth (shio ramen) are ideal pairing partners, too.

As for more Western foods, try Koshu with carpaccio, salade niçoise, light seafood meals such as ceviche, a fruits de mer platter or seafood paella. All the wines that follow are from the Yamanashi prefecture…

Hayato Kojima’s selection of Koshu wines to try

The wines are sorted by score in style order; sparkling, white and orange. 

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A short video created to mark the House of Suntory milestone shows Hollywood star Keanu Reeves walking down a neon-drenched street before slipping into a bar and enjoying a glass of Hibiki 21 Year Old Japanese whisky with friends.

The video, created by Academy Award-winning director Sofia Coppola, then highlights some of the most famous Suntory ads from the past century.

It is 20 years since the release of Coppola’s hit 2003 film, Lost In Translation, which featured Bill Murray’s perplexed character shooting a Suntory commercial.

Reeves previously appeared in a Suntory Reserve ad campaign all the way back in 1992, the year Bram Stoker’s Dracula, in which he played Jonathan Harker, was released.

Francis Ford Coppola, the legendary director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now, helmed that film.

Reeves reportedly met Coppola’s daughter, Sofia, on the set at the time, and the pair have now joined forces for the Suntory 100th anniversary tribute video.

Later this summer, Reeves will also star in a series of documentary shorts titled ‘The Nature and Spirit of Japan’, directed by Sophia’s brother, Roman Coppola.

‘I’m a huge fan of Suntory whisky, so it’s very special to collaborate in honour of this milestone anniversary,’ said Reeves.

The House of Suntory, founded when Shinjiro Torii built the Yamazaki Distillery in 1923, said it is also releasing several limited-edition whiskies to celebrate the centennial.

They include Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara, and an Hakushu 18 Year Old peated malt, along with 100th anniversary labels of the flagship Yamazaki 12 Year Old and Hakushu 12 Year Old single malts.

‘As the pioneer of Japanese whisky, the House of Suntory played a significant role in shaping culture and leading craftsmanship in Japan over the last century,’ said House of Suntory MD Jon Potter. ‘To mark this historic milestone, partnering with Sofia and Keanu, who are Suntory Whisky fans, makes perfect sense.’

Japanese whiskies have become increasingly prominent on the global spirits market over the past decade, and rare bottlings can fetch high prices at auction. ‘Demand for aged Japanese whisky is massively outstripping supply,’ said auction house Sotheby’s in December 2022.

Stay tuned for more details about Suntory’s limited-edition, anniversary whiskies in an upcoming article on Decanter.com. 

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World Whisky Day (20 May 2023) is a global celebration of all things whisky. It was established in 2012 by Blair Bowman, when he was a student at the University of Aberdeen in Scotland.

Held on the third Saturday in May each year, World Whisky Day is marked with special events, tastings and get-togethers. The central message of the day is to celebrate the best whisky: wherever it comes from and however you like to drink it.

Whether you prefer your dram neat, with water or ice, mixed or in a cocktail, this is a chance to enjoy whisky in all its glory. Anything goes, as long as it’s fun and accessible – and, of course, responsible.

Of course, distillers are keen to mark the occasion too, with many launching special bottlings and new releases. So if you’re keen to find a new addition for your whisky collection, it’s a good time to take a look at the options.

To get you started, we’ve rounded up a selection of our favourite bottles from recent tastings. They range from special cask finish Scotch to rye whiskeys from the US and Finland. You’ll also find Japanese whisky finished in a sake cask, an award-winning single malt from Israel, English whisky and classic pot-still styles from Ireland. Enjoy!

Best new whisky releases: 12 to try

Tasting notes by Neil Ridley (NR) and Julie Sheppard (JS)

Bushmills 30 Year Old

One of Ireland’s best loved whiskeys, Bushmills has recently celebrated the opening of a brand new state-of-the-art expansion at its distillery, which is a stone’s throw from the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. This landmark release will set you back a cool £1,975. The aromas are deep and complex, with well-ripened stone fruit, dark chocolate, a touch of fresh toasted coffee beans and bonfire toffee. On the palate, layers of tropical fruit arrive first, with mango and papaya, a nutty, praline note and a lingering, charred blood orange note. NR Alcohol 46%

Glenfiddich Grand Yozakura

The latest release from Glenfiddich celebrates Hanami – the Japanese cherry blossom festival. It’s a 29-year-old single malt Scotch finished in ex-awamori casks; this rice spirit is only made in Okinawa and just a small percentage is aged in oak, which makes awamori casks a rarity and helps to explain its £1,500 price tag. Distinctive aromas: a lifted herbal note overlays notes of apple, fruit cake and toasty oak, which follows through to the palate. Complex layers of creamy toffee (from the awamori), dark spices, cigar box, fresh green apple, grapefruit pith, and a warm, earthy base note. JS Alc 45.1%

Glen Scotia 11 Year Old White Port Finish Campbeltown Malts Festival 2023

From a small Scottish region of just three distilleries, Glen Scotia has released this annual bottling to coincide with the festival of malt and music which happens on the 23-25 May. A wonderful lightly peated coastal smoke note arrives first, with sea salt, toasted oak, rich caramel fudge and a fruity floral fresh grape note. The palate is complex, with more light smoke, milk chocolate and a lingering dark fruit and spiciness. NR Alc 54.7%

InchDairnie RyeLaw

RyeLaw is the first spirit produced by the innovative InchDairnie Distillery, located at the heart of the Kingdom of Fife in Scotland – and one of only a handful of Scottish rye whiskies. Made from a mash of Scottish-grown rye and malted barley. The nose is full of rich, pungent spiciness (think cracked Szechuan pepper and toasted clove) with vanilla, sweet oatcakes, malted cereal and dried fruit notes of raisin and dates. NR Alc 46.3%

Kyrö Wood Smoke Malt Rye Whisky

Kyrö is the brainchild of a group of friends and spirits enthusiasts in Finland, who decided to develop a distillery, using one the nation’s most abundant crops,: the humble rye grain. On the nose, an immediate smoky aroma hits home, with an additional layer of aromatic wood, soft brown sugar, some earthy notes and a distinct peppery spice. On the palate, the smoke is more pronounced and bonfire-led, with grilled meat, a sweet vanilla note and then a lovely contrasting dry, peppery rye bread note. NR Alc 47.2%

Lagavulin 14 Year Old Armagnac Finish

This unusual cask finish Scotch – a first for Lagavulin – brings together flavours of the famous French brandy, alongside the classic pungent, smoky aspects of Islay’s Lagavulin, bottled especially for the Fèis Ile whisky festival, held on Islay at the end of May. The nose brings coastal notes of sea salt and smoked meat, alongside a slightly fruity grapey aroma, whilst the palate offers waves of potent iodine, bonfire smoke and a deep drying oakiness. NR Alc 58.4%

Michter’s 10 Year Old Single Barrel Rye

This limited-production Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey was released in the UK earlier this year. The liquid spends 10 years in new American white oak, developing appealing aromas of caramel syrup, spice, vanilla toffee and sultanas. The palate delivers plenty of rye spice, alongside toasted nuts, ripe orange, toffee, ginger and cinnamon biscuits and a crack of black pepper on the finish. JS Alc 46.4%

Milk & Honey Classic Single Malt

Israel’s Milk & Honey distillery was the recipient of this year’s ‘World’s Best Single Malt Whisky’ award at the World Whiskies Awards – for its Elements Sherry Cask release, which sold out after the announcement… Opened in 2014, the distillery has built up a great reputation amongst whisky connoisseurs globally. On the nose, an abundance of fresh honey and citrus fruit, leads into a slightly malty flapjack aroma of toasted oats, alongside vanilla ice cream. The palate is spicy, with dark chocolate, raisins and a slight clove-led woodiness. NR Alc 46%

Teeling Wonders of Wood Second Edition Virgin Portuguese Oak

The second installation of Teeling’s Wonders of Wood series marries pot still Irish whiskey with new Portuguese oak, known for its serious tannins. No surprises that it delivers big, boisterous flavours and aromas… The nose is packed with spices, dark chocolate, dried orange peel. Super-charged spice on the palate is balanced by mellow dried fruit – raisins, figs, sultanas – ripe apple and clean citrus, toasty oak and tobacco lingering on the finish. JS Alc 50%

Togouchi Sake Cask Finish

Founded in 1918, Sakurao Distillery is based in Hatsukaichi, southern Japan, and began producing whisky in 1990. This blended whisky was initially matured in bourbon barrels, then finished for three months in sake casks – in fact it’s the only sake cask finish Japanese whisky available in the UK currently. Light and fruity aromas: ripe pear, Cox’s Pippin apple, apricots and a touch of citrus. Creamy palate with notes of vanilla, butter biscuits, flapjacks and caramel, balanced by baked apple and pear fruit with light sake notes weaving through. The distinctive bottle shape is modelled on a shochu jar. JS Alc 40%

Turntable Spirits Track 1 Joy. Discovery. Invention.

A boutique blended Scotch from newcomers Turntable Spirits, founded by brothers Ally and Gordon Stevenson. Fresh and fruity on the nose, the initial aromas are ripe pear, icing sugar, a touch of lemon zest and vanilla. The palate is creamy and zest-laden, with hints of green apple, vanilla ice cream and a dusting of cinnamon. Ideal for a summery highball serve over ice with soda water. NR Alc 46%

Wire Works Caduro

Hailing from the Derbyshire Peak District in England, Wire Works is a new small batch, limited-edition English whisky. It’s produced at the White Peak distillery, founded by husband and wife team Max and Claire Vaughan. A rich nose, with wild dark honey and honeycomb aromas, coupled with a light, slightly floral smoke and thick raspberry jam. The palate is charismatic and peaty, alongside fresh orchard fruit, spicy toasted oak notes and a touch of sweet, aromatic tropical fruit flavours. NR Alc 46.8%

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Now until 30 April 2023, Enoteca Japan is showcasing a selection of 10 award-winning wines from the Decanter World Wine Awards 2022.

Enoteca’s promotion includes wines from France, Italy, Spain, the United States, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand, including three Gold Medal winners with high score of 95 points.

Japan’s leading wine trading company, Enoteca imports high-quality wines from Italy, Spain, New Zealand, the USA, Australia and more. First established in Hong Kong in 2008, Enoteca has expanded across Asia with branches in Singapore, Taiwan, South Korea, Thailand and Shanghai.

In Japan, Enoteca owns and operates wine stores in Sapporo, Niigata, Yokohama, Tokyo, Kashiwa, Nagareyama, Nagoya, Osaka, Yao, Ashiya, Hiroshima, Akigun and Fukuoka and is headquartered in Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan.

Scroll down to see which award-winning wines are on offer, online only, at Enoteca Japan…

Enoteca’s DWWA 2022 promotion – Shop now

Enoteca Japan’s DWWA 2022 promotion

White

Marimar Estate, La Masia Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, California, United States, 2019

Gold, 95 points

Vibrant nose of apple and pear with hints of matchstick reduction. Brilliant upfront oak spice, fine vanilla and custard cream. Big and bold palate structure with pleasing length and complexity on the finish. A wonderful wine to have more than one glass of.

Bodega Norton, Altura White Blend, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2021

Silver, 94 points

Pretty nose of blackcurrant leaf, elderflower and lifted floral notes; harmonious palate of green fruit and a lifted acidity.

Sileni, Lodge Grand Reserve Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2019

Silver, 93 points

Complex nose of peaches, nectarine, vanilla cream and toasty nougat. Rich and juicy, showing charming fruit and finesse. Long finish.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Mouton Cadet Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2021

Bronze, 89 points

Perfumed, grassy and very expressive with ripe stone fruit and white grapefruit. Quite mineral palate.

Rosé

Jean Leon, 3055 Rosé, Penedès, Spain, 2021

Bronze, 89 points

Delicate nose of raspberries. Fresh and juicy in the mouth. Simple, straightforward and well-made.

Red

Montes, Outer Limits Syrah, Zapallar, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2021

Gold, 95 points

Displays really vIvid blue and black fruit with delicate black pepper notes. The palate is juicy, upbeat, and vibrant with some charred oak character and fine, firm tannins. A really good, savoury, upbeat, vibrant coastal Syrah style.

San Polo, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 2017

Gold, 95 points

A classic, earthy wine, with forest floor and tea leaf savoury elegance. The palate shows outstanding texture, with smooth and complex red fruits with accents of mineral and smoke. The wine is intense, with lovely equilibrium, and offers a very elegant tannin finish.

Familia Torres, Clos Ancestral, Penedès, Spain, 2020

Silver, 90 points

Intense black fruit, blueberry, cassis, herbal and spicy nose. Fleshy palate with ripe polished tannins, refreshing acidity and a lengthy, spicy finish.

Giant Steps, Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia, 2021

Silver, 92 points

Aromas of smashed strawberries and watermelon. Ripe but fresh berry concentration on the palate. Well-integrated tannins and a fresh, fruity finish. A smart wine.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Escudo Rojo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipó Valley, Chile, 2020

Bronze, 89 points

Baked blackberries with fresh pastry, clove, cedar, and leafy hints. Grippy tannin with a mineral undertow.

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Pairing wines with Japanese curry

Curry was brought to Japan from the UK in the mid-19th century. Though it started as a military food, in the 20th century curry powder became available in many grocery stores in Japan.

The locals enjoyed curry not only with steamed rice but also with noodles. Gradually, they developed their own methods for preparing these dishes.

In the beginning, they blended curry powder with flour, making a yellowish curry roux, which in most cases wasn’t spicy. Later, the solid blocks of curry roux that we find in shops today were created. The convenience and varied spiciness of these boosted their popularity in ordinary households in Japan and overseas.

The spiciness of the curry roux, the vegetables, seafood or meat used to cook the curry sauce – as well as the choice of toppings – are the key factors to consider when deciding on the perfect wines to pair.

The most common Japanese curry dishes are plain curry roux made from vegetable and pork stocks, seafood curry (curry sauce with seafood chunks inside) and curry

with katsu toppings.

For plain curry, a spicy, fragrant Gewürztraminer is my top choice. Its aromatic, exotic fruits are in good synergy with spicier versions of curry roux too. For seafood curry, the minerality of seafood and the cooking oil (butter or olive oil) match well with a creamy, oaked Burgundian Chardonnay.

If you prefer topping up your curry with crunchy katsu, go for Cabernet Sauvignon-driven reds, especially those from Bordeaux’s Left Bank – well-structured tannin tends to work well with the oiliness of the deep-fried topping, whereas the elegant acidity functions as a palate cleanser.

Soba and udon

Japanese soba and udon are popular noodle dishes, with the umami flavour in the broth or dipping sauce playing a key role in shaping their flavours. Soba noodles are made of buckwheat and are thinner than udon noodles, which are made of wheat. Both varieties can be served hot or cold.

Made using ‘dashi’, the Japanese soup stock extracted from seafood and kombu (dried kelp), the soup and the dipping sauce served with soba and udon usually contain plenty of umami and mineral flavours.

Pinot Noir, especially a classic from Burgundy, is my go-to option for plain soba and udon with no toppings (‘kake’ or ‘mori’). Koshu from Japan could be another good option due to its delicate flavour profile, which matches very well with the umami-rich dashi flavours.

Your toppings of choice can also influence the taste, leading to different pairing options. If you add sweetened fried tofu (‘abura-age’) to make ‘kitsune soba (or udon)’, then the sweetness of abura-age tends to match better with aromatic whites such as Gewürztraminer or Pinot Gris from Alsace, Viognier from the southern Rhône, German Kabinett Riesling or Spanish Albariño.

Mixed tempura (‘kakiage’) is another popular topping for soba and udon. If that is your preference, opt for fino Sherry, which works in perfect harmony with the additional richness and crunchy, nutty flavours of the tempura crust.

You can even choose curry sauce to season your soba or udon – again, aromatic whites would guarantee a good match with its spiciness.

Ramen

Ramen is thought to have been brought to Japan from China in the middle of the 19th century (the original Chinese name ‘拉麺’ literally means ‘pulled noodles’). However, the soup-infused noodle dish has largely taken influence from Japan and nowadays, almost every region has its own distinctive ramen style.

The flavour of the Ramen broth, therefore, holds the key to the perfect pairings and the four major broths are shio (salt), shoyu (soy sauce), miso (fermented soybean paste)

and tonkotsu (pork bone).

In many cases, dried seafood is used for making the stock for shio ramen. To match well with the saltiness and minerality of the soup, I would go for a crisp Koshu, a nutty fino or an oaked Chardonnay from the Old World, ideally with some lees contact for texture. Consider those from Burgundy, Italy, Spain or Eastern Europe.

With shoyu ramen, the combination of dashi and soy sauce makes the umami flavour sing on your palate – and there is nothing better than choosing an elegant Burgundian Pinot Noir to match.

For miso ramen, my top choices are fino Sherry or again, Burgundian Pinot Noir due to the creamy, yeasty and umami flavours of the miso paste.

The richness and oiliness of tonkotsu ramen would benefit from reds with higher tannin. Therefore a Cabernet blend from the Old World such as those from Bordeaux’s Left Bank, the Languedoc and the rest of Europe should do the trick. Syrah from the Rhône, Tannat from south-west France, Spanish Tempranillo, Italian Nebbiolo or Aglianico are also valid options.

Sparkling wines: The all-rounder choice

If you love sparkling wines, then good news – they tend to work with any of the fulfilling rice and noodle dishes mentioned above. The refreshing character of the bubbles helps to moderate any extreme flavours, be it curry spices or oily soup, while refreshing your palate.

You won’t go wrong with Old World offerings such as brut Champagne, Cava, Franciacorta, Prosecco or indeed an English sparkling wine.

My top choices

Fino Sherry: Soba and udon noodles with tempura toppings, shio and miso ramen

Gewürztraminer from Alsace: Curry dishes in general

Cabernet Sauvignon-driven reds from Bordeaux’s Left Bank: Katsu curry

Burgundian Chardonnay: Seafood curry and shio ramen

Burgundian Pinot Noir: Plain soba & udon, shoyu and miso ramen

Koshu from Japan: Plain soba and udon, shio ramen

Old World sparkling wines: All-rounder choices

Generally speaking, I would always recommend fruit-restrained and mineral Old World wines over fruit-driven wines from the New World to pair with classic Japanese dishes. The delicate Koshu wines from Japan match well with them for the same reason – not only because they share the origin.

Don’t forget to order wine next time and enjoy the harmony between wine and these hearty ‘wa (和)’ style dishes.

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Discover Japanese whisky

Top Japanese whisky producer Nikka has launched two new expressions. Part of its innovative Discovery series, the new limited-edition bottlings explore the effect of precise yeast strains on Nikka’s classic Yoichi and Miyagikyo single malts. Inspired by the flavours and aromas of sake, Yoichi Single Malt Aromatic Yeast (Alc 48%) is a more floral, aromatic take on the distinctive peated-yet-fruity Yoichi Single Malt. Garden flowers, citrus, melon and pineapple aromas, with injections of mint and Band Aids. The rich peated, earthy palate opens up into a more herbaceous character, with kiwi and barley sugar; spicy and salty finish, the subtle sweetness of white grapes balancing wafts of smoke. Miyagikyo Single Malt Aromatic Yeast (Alc 47%) is bright and lively. Like the original, it’s characterised by malted barley notes, but is more delicate with aromas of vanilla, lemon meringue, bananas and custard, peach and pear over woody spice. Lighter and brighter than the classic, with ginger, apricot pastries, digestive biscuits, white peach and white pepper. The long, lifted finish is herbal with meadow flowers and pears poached in ginger syrup. Only 4,800 bottles of each whisky have been released in Europe. Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, The Whisky Shop

What is… navy strength?

The term ‘navy strength’ is commonly used to describe spirits bottled at 57% abv and above. The expression derives from a test that used to be carried out by the British navy to check the alcohol content of rum rations on ships. Being stored near gunpowder, it needed a flammable level of alcohol – so that if the casks were damaged and leaked, the gunpowder would still be usable. A little rum was mixed with gunpowder and heated. If it ignited, the rum was dubbed ‘proof’; if it failed to ignite, the rum had been diluted. In 1816, Bartholomew Sikes invented a hydrometer to measure abv accurately. It calculated that 100% proof equated to 57% abv. While in 1866 the Royal Navy defined its ‘navy strength’ officially at 54.5%, today it’s the ‘English proof’ measure of 57% that has been adopted by many spirits companies to label their strongest spirits.

What to drink now?

The Sazerac is synonymous with New Orleans. While most agree it was invented at the Sazerac House saloon in the city’s French Quarter, there’s fierce debate about when and how it was made. It’s first mentioned in print in 1899 and was popularised by Vincent Miret and Billy Wilkinson, owners of Sazerac House, in the early 1900s.

A simple mix of rye, sugar and bitters, served in an absinthe-rinsed glass, the recipe is open to variation. Some use Peychaud’s and Angostura bitters, or add a dash of maraschino cherry liqueur. Try Sazerac Straight Rye, an iconic New Orleans rye whiskey (Alc 45% Amazon UK, Master of Malt, Ocado, Tesco, Waitrose Cellar).

Sazerac

Ingredients: 45ml rye whiskey, 7.5ml sugar syrup, 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters, 5ml absinthe (to rinse)

Glass: Rocks

Garnish: None

Method: Fill a rocks glass with ice and let it chill. In a second glass, stir all ingredients with ice. Discard the ice in the first glass and pour in the absinthe, swirl around the glass then discard. Strain the second glass into the first and zest lemon peel over it.

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Tempura is a popular Japanese dish made by frying batter-coated seafood and vegetables in light or dark-coloured sesame oil.

These deep-fried morsels, which are supposed to be enjoyed crunchy and piping hot, were introduced to Japan in the 16th century by Portuguese Christian missionaries. The name ‘tempura’ comes from the Portuguese term ‘tempêro’, which means ‘seasoning’.

Initially, it was just a hawker food in Japan but in the 19th century, speciality restaurants appeared and there are now many places to enjoy this cuisine, with its popularity also growing in Western countries.

Consider the tempura ingredients

Finding the best wine pairing for tempura starts with considering the texture of the ingredients, seasonings and frying oil used by your chosen restaurant.

Seafood and vegetables, in addition to the batter (usually made of water, flour and egg yolks), form the key components of tempura.

Prawn is the ‘king’ ingredient and is usually served as the first course of a meal. Other seafood options include squid, white fish and sea eel (anago), while green asparagus, sweet potato and shiitake mushrooms are among the most favoured vegetable ingredients for these deep-fried dishes.

Seasonings are also crucial to the way the dish is enjoyed. Authentic tempura is enjoyed with salt and lemon (or sometimes just salt) or with tentsuyu (a soy sauce-based dipping sauce).

It is also worth noting that the roasting level of sesame used for the frying oil differs by restaurant. Unroasted sesame oil makes a lighter-coloured coating while heavily-roasted oil creates a darker colour and richer, nutty flavours – another factor to take into account when pairing wines.

The diversity of Sherry

Reflecting on the origins of tempura on the Iberian Peninsula, it follows that Sherry may be a good place to start in terms of a wine pairing.

After a discovery tasting with my fellow wine experts, we found that tempura goes well with dry Sherries that have a crispy, nutty flavour and are high in alcohol. Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and dry Oloroso are our top choices.

With seafood tempura seasoned with salt and lemon, Fino or Manzanilla are the most suitable pairings. Deep-fried prawn served in this way goes perfectly with those two styles, especially with Manzanilla, which has a bit more saltiness than Fino due to its terroir. If you prefer pairing your tempura with tentsuyu, however, richer Amontillado is the better choice.

Green asparagus tempura served with salt matches very well with Fino. To pair with tentsuyu-seasoned sweet potato and shiitake mushroom, Amontillado and dry Oloroso are clear winners.

With the extraordinarily rich-flavoured sea eel tempura, which the chef would always recommend dipping in tentsuyu, we also prefer Amontillado or dry Oloroso.

Bubbles offer balance

Sparkling wines are natural partners for deep-fried dishes like tempura (although many Japanese foodies would prefer a cold beer).

Brut-style Old World sparklers such as Champagne, Cava and Franciacorta alongside English fizzes are obvious choices due to their higher minerality and refreshing acidity. Proseccos with a good level of freshness are also ‘why not’ options.

Blanc de Blancs is a good match for tempuras with shrimp, white fish or vegetable fillings; a richer Blanc de Noirs would be better paired with sea eel.

Still wines add dimension

While sparkling wines with their crisp bubbles neutralise the greasy texture of tempura, still wines add to the flavour and generate new dimensions to the pairing experience.

Generally speaking, the minerality of seafood tempura matches better with Old World still wines rather than those from the New World.

For salty seafood tempura, you won’t go wrong with a light to medium-bodied, unoaked, less aromatic dry white such as Muscadet. If you’d like a squeeze of lemon, a refreshing, crisp Chardonnay such as a village-level Chablis would work better.

If you enjoy your seafood tempura with tentsuyu, consider richer dry whites, such as a Burgundian oaked Chardonnay or a white from the Côtes du Rhone.

With salted green asparagus tempura, a dry, medium-bodied, slightly aromatic white such as Sancerre or Alsace Riesling matches well. If tentsuyu is your sauce of choice, consider a richer white.

Salted sweet potato and shiitake mushroom tempura tend to work well with unoaked Chardonnay whereas tentsuyu-seasoned versions prefer full-bodied whites or even a fruity red. A regional level Merlot from Bordeaux’s Right Bank or the Languedoc or a Burgundian Pinot Noir would be good choices.

To balance the richness of sea eel tempura, you will need a rich, full-bodied red with a good amount of tannin. A Syrah from the Northern Rhône or a classy Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux’s Left Bank will not fail to impress.

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Shirakawa 1958 is the only official single malt bottling from the demolished distillery, and is also said to be the earliest single vintage Japanese whisky bottled to date, although part of its back story remains shrouded in mystery.

The whisky was distilled at the Shirakawa distillery, located 200km north of Tokyo, in 1958, and survived an era when Shirakawa’s malt whisky was almost all used in owner Takara Shuzo’s flagship ‘King’ blend.

Shirakawa was opened in Fukushima Prefecture by previous owner Daikoku Budoshu in 1939, before being acquired by Takara Shuzo in 1947. It only produced malt whisky between 1951 and 1969, and was demolished in 2003.

Little is known of the history of the whisky, which was distilled at a time when Shirakawa mainly used Japanese malted barley and locally sourced ‘mizunara’ oak casks. At some point, it was transferred from oak into ceramic jars at the distillery, then put into stainless steel tanks at Takara Shuzo’s Kyushu factory when Shirakawa closed.

‘There are no known examples of Japanese whisky claiming to be from a single vintage that predate Shirakawa 1958,’ said Stefan van Eycken, a leading authority on Japanese whisky. ‘Even though Shirakawa distillery was one of the pioneers of malt whisky making in Japan, the liquid was never officially available as a single malt.’

The whisky came to light after Stephen Bremner, MD of Scotland-based Tomatin Distillery Co – which is owned by Takara Shuzo – became intrigued by the Japanese company’s early history of malt whisky production. Extensive research led to the identification of the final parcel of Shirakawa single malt in 2019.

From 13 September, 1,500 70cl bottles of Shirakawa 1958, bottled at 49% abv and priced at £25,000 each, will be available from tomatindistillery.com and retailers including Harrods, Berry Bros & Rudd, The Whisky Exchange and Royal Mile Whiskies.

The only UK consumer tasting of Shirakawa 1958 will take place at 12.45pm on Saturday, 1 October 2022, at The Whisky Exchange Whisky Show in London. Tickets will be available from today (24 August) at whiskyshow.com/london/. Guests must also hold a Saturday ticket for the show.

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Described by Courvoisier as ‘daring’, ‘visionary’ and ‘a first-of-its-kind collaboration’, Courvoisier Mizunara was created by the house’s recently-retired maître de chai, Patrice Pinet, and Shinji Fukuyo, chief blender of Japanese whisky maker Suntory.

The project dates back to 2015, when the president of Suntory visited Courvoisier at Jarnac shortly after Suntory took over Beam Global, the Cognac house’s then owner, in a deal worth US$16bn.

Pinet expressed an interest in experimenting with mizunara oak, and shortly afterwards was sent one virgin – meaning not previously used for maturation – 500-litre mizunara oak cask. He filled it with Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie that had already been maturing for more than 10 years in French oak.

‘I have always been intrigued by the scarcity and uniqueness of Japanese mizunara oak,’ said Pinet. ‘I knew the mizunara cask was an unconventional choice for Courvoisier and, together with Shinji, we saw the potential for the notoriously temperamental wood to enhance the unique characteristics of the exceptional Cognac, and complement the maison’s signature floral house style.’

Thibaut Hontanx, who recently took over from Pinet to become Courvoisier’s seventh maître de chai, explained that Pinet had deliberately chosen eaux-de-vie with only a light oak influence to magnify the flavours coming from the mizunara – but initial results were nonetheless disappointing.

‘They were selling these “exotic” flavours, but after six months it was very flat in terms of the aromas,’ Hontanx said. ‘The tannin was tough – there was a bitterness that didn’t want to go away.’

Fukuyo advised Pinet to be patient – ‘Take your time, it will come,’ he said – and gradually, after three years of maturation, the spirit’s character began to change. ‘Now you’ve got something completely different,’ said Hontanx. ‘You’ve got exotic fruit, pineapple, cacao, hazelnut.

‘There are flowers like jasmine and, on the palate, it’s really an explosion of aromas. You can feel the mizunara oak – you can even bite it. It’s very silky, and there’s good length.’

The Cognac was bottled at a higher than normal strength of 48% ABV, Hontanx added, to highlight the aromas coming from the mizunara oak.

Cognac’s strict rules forbid the use of the word ‘finish’ to describe an extra period of maturation in a different cask – as is commonly done in Scotch whisky, for example – and they also only allow Cognac eaux-de-vie to be aged in new oak casks, or oak casks that have previously contained wine, or wine-based products – such as Sauternes or Pineau de Charentes.

Had Courvoisier Mizunara been matured in a cask that had previously contained Japanese whisky, it would have had to be bottled as a brandy or spirit drink – although it could still have used the Courvoisier branding.

Only 500 bottles of Courvoisier Mizunara are available globally, 35 of them in the UK, for sale via retailers including Harrods, Harvey Nichols and The Whisky Exchange, plus select on-trade partners. The RRP is £2,000 for a 70cl bottle.

Courvoisier Mizunara – how does it taste?

On the nose, the fruit is positively exuberant, with juicy plums and black cherries, before slipping into more perfumed territory: candied pineapple, papaya and mango. The palate brings more of the same – just a hint of black banana too – before a powerful, drying spice character emerges, reminiscent of American rye whiskey, with an edge of chilli pepper. Bold by the standards of Courvoisier, and with plenty of grip from the cask.

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Prices have been rising on California fine wines, and especially Screaming Eagle, said Liv-ex this week.

Its California 50 index, which tracks the price performance of Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Dominus, Opus One and Ridge Monte Bello, has increased by around 32% in the last year.

‘High quality and heightened demand have led to rising prices,’ said Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade.

Its figures provide more evidence of a strong 12 months for the fine wine market in general, and follow a good performance for California in the Liv-ex 2021 Classification.

While the California 50 rose faster than the broader Liv-ex 1000 index, the Champagne 50 and Burgundy 150 indices both rose even more steeply.

Screaming Eagle has been a standout performer, with prices up by more than 40% in the last year, Liv-ex said. The other four names in the California 50 index saw increases of between 10% and 20%, although this may vary between particular vintages.

Liv-ex referred to recent figures showing ‘Screaming Eagle 2010 had a market price of around £3,700 (3×75cl in bond) in 2013, but it is now listed for as much as £12,000 (3×75cl)’.

A number of California wines are now sold internationally via the Place de Bordeaux, amid signs that some of the region’s best-known producers have sought to expand their reach – while also catering for collectors and drinkers in the US.

UK-based merchant Goedhuis & Co recently highlighted strong customer interest in California’s ‘wonderfully “European” 2018 vintage’. It said its sales of American wines rose by 24% in 2021, versus 2020, and a ‘basket of top Californians’ also suggested prices rises of nearly 24%.

It added that it anticipated further price rises on top names in the coming months.

New releases of Ridge Monte Bello, Opus One and Dominus sold well in 2021, but customer demand wasn’t confined to the upper echelons of the market, Goedhuis said.

‘Our new releases of Eden Rift all found happy buyers, along with the September La Place releases of old favourites like Verité, and new additions from Peter Michaels Cellars.’

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Tokyo at night. A city transformed. The monochrome of the daytime – steel grey buildings, black suits, white shirts – is replaced by eye-aching neon and glitter. The disciplined march of salarymen and women becomes a throng of careering bodies, all laughing and shouting.

As the lights come on in the high rises you see that every floor is advertising five or more bars, every doorway and basement offering some enticement to sit and drink.

There are as many types of drinking establishment as you could ask for. Izakayas (essentially a cross between a pub and a restaurant) are noisy, smoke-filled places either catering to carousing office workers or serving a local community. The drinks will tend to be cold Highballs served on draught, or sake.

Then there are bars, which tend to be quiet, crepuscular spaces. Everyone will be seated, the space will fit a maximum of 20 people, quite often less. There will be jazz playing quietly. Conversation is hushed. You’ll watch the precise movements of the bartender as your drink is made, then served in vintage glassware. This is drinking as a state of reverence.

Take Ginza’s Bar High Five (Efflore Ginza 5 Bldg, BF 5-4-15 Ginza), run by Hidetsugu Ueno as an example. There is no menu here. You’ll be asked if you want a hard or a long drink, and what spirit you’d prefer, then one will be crafted for you by either Ueno himself or (if he is on one of his regular jaunts abroad) his chief bartender Kaori.

Highball revolution

At some point you will encounter, or need, a Highball – the simple mix that triggered whisky’s recent revival. You can get it in cans, ice cold on draught, or stirred with immense and glacial precision in bars.

The Highball revolution started in one bar, Rock Fish (2F no. 26 Polestar Building, 7-2-14 Ginza), owned by Maguchi-san. Here’s his secret: keep your whisky (ideally Kakubin) and glasses in the freezer. When ready, pour 60ml into the glass and then top up with Wilkinson Tansan soda and a twist of lemon peel. Simple. Cooling. Refreshing. Slightly deadly after four.

Honed to perfection

Over time, so the Japanese approach to bartending reveals itself. Precise, detailed, every movement thought through. Every aspect of the drink – from ice to glass – obsessed over. Cocktails as tea ceremony.

Even the shaking is honed to perfection. To see the finest expression of this, head to Star Bar (B1F, 1-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku), owned by Hisashi Kishi. He manipulates the two-piece shaker so that the liquid interacts with the ice in different ways, depending on the drink being made. A master at work – and he makes the greatest Negroni on the planet (I know, it’s a stirred drink).

Kishi-san is typical of the older generation, a generation that has long been the guardians of classical techniques. The downside of this is that Japanese bartending seemed to be homogenised at one point, and too reverent to the past. If you wanted the greatest White Lady or Sidecar, this was the country to go to, but if you were a seeker for innovation, you’d be hard pressed to find it. Not any longer; a new generation is now emerging.

New generation

Take Ben Fiddich (Yamatoya Bldg, 9F, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku), run by Hiroyasu Kayama. On first glance it is another eight-seater, white-coated shrine to the past, but look again and it reveals Kayama as an alchemist, the bar his laboratory. Spices and herbs (from his family’s farm) are ground, liqueurs are made, liquors are infused then turned into bespoke drinks based on whisky, gin, absinthe or amaro.

There are only eight seats, set around a tree trunk that serves as the bar at Gen Yamamoto’s eponymous, tranquil shrine to drink in Minato (1-6-4 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku). Seasonality is key here, reflecting Yamamoto’s investigations into flavour and the traditional Japanese custom of breaking down the year into 72 distinct ‘seasons’, focusing on when ingredients are at their utmost freshness. Bartender or chef? Boundaries blur.

A more relaxed yet equally focused approach is taken by Rogerio Vaz at Bar Trench in Ebisu (1f, 1-5-8 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-Ku). Absinthe again plays a starring role as Vaz creates innovative combinations of flavour, radical reworkings of classics and adoptions from overseas. The mood-changing effects of aromas play an important role in his creations.

A more recent addition to the scene is Shibuya’s The SG Club (1-7-8 Jinnan, Shibuya), named after its owner Shingo Gokan. This townhouse is split into three: Guzzle on street level for casual drinking from what looks like a standard menu – though each of the crowd-pleasers has been tweaked and finessed. In the speakeasy-style Sip his creative juices are allowed fuller rein. There’s also a members’ cigar lounge on the top floor.

Best Tokyo bars: Whisky shrines

You’ll soon notice that in most bars the shelves are packed with bottles of single malt. But if you want to take your whisky appreciation one step further then there are plenty of specialists around.

The grandest is Tokyo Whisky Library in Omotesando (Minami-Aoyama Santa Chiara Church 2F, 5-5-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku), which carries in excess of 1,200 bottles and, unlike some of the hardcore whisky temples, also offers cocktails and highballs and whisky infusions.

The hardcore whisky geek will be equally satisfied with the selection at Suzuki-san’s impeccably hand-chosen selection of rarities at Shinagawa’s Mash Tun (2-14-3 Kamiosaki Mikasa Bldg, B 2F 202, Shinagawa).

If you are in Ginza, head towards the tracks at Yurakucho and into the corridor that houses Campbelltoun [sic] Loch (1-6-8 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku), where owner Nakamura Nobuyuki is hemmed in by cases and bottles.

Best Tokyo bars: Japanese whisky

Don’t, however, expect a large selection of local Japanese whisky. The stock shortage that has bedevilled the industry in recent years has impacted as deeply here. Your best bet remains the amazing Zoetrope (3F, 7-10-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku), which was started by owner Horimagi-san as a specialist in ‘Japanese-distilled, western-style’ spirits. His stock has been depleted, you’ll have a chance to try whisky from the new distilleries, some older bottlings and, if you’re brave, some of the whiskies made in the boom times of the 1960s and 1970s.

All of life in its boundless diversity is to be found in Tokyo’s bars. Here you will understand hospitality, craft, precision and Japanese culture while enjoying yourself. Dive in.

Oh, and a word to the wise: Tokyo is huge. Pick a district and work your way around its delights rather than spending the whole evening in taxis or the underground. Get the name, phone number and address of the bar and give that to your taxi driver. Google Maps is getting better, but be prepared to enjoy the hunt.

Other spirits specialists

• Whisky is far from the only spirit to have its specialist outlets. Rum lovers should head to Tafia (2-15-14 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku) with its immense selection of cane spirits.
• Perhaps it’s time for a Sherry. For many years, Ginza’s Sherry Club (6-3-17 Ginza Yugen Building 2-3F, Ginza) had the world’s largest selection while the excellent Sherry Museum in Shinagawa (1-4-8 Nishigotanda 2F, Shinagawa) has melded the art of the venenciador with the grace of the tea ceremony.
• Maybe you want to widen your horizons? Try Roppongi’s cantina-style Agave (Clover Bldg B1F, 7-15-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku) for a fine selection of mezcal and Tequila.
• Or get to grips with Japan’s native spirit shochu at the reservations-only Umebachee (3A Sankus Prime Building, 3-22 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku), run by Go Umezawa, a passionate advocate for the new wave of shochu and sake producers.
  

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Whether you are looking for a birthday or anniversary gift – or just a bottle to say thank you – here are eight whiskies from Scotland, Ireland, Japan and even Denmark.

They cover a range of styles and tastes – from single malts to cask finished whiskies – to please even the most discerning of palates.

Best whisky gifts: The bottles to buy

Aberlour A’Bunadh Batch 63

A seriously intense, cask-strength Highland single malt and certainly not one for the faint of heart. Matured in Oloroso casks giving strong Sherried aromas alongside notes of dates and toffee. In the mouth the intensity continues with a fierce spiciness before mellowing on the finish with chocolatey notes. Alc 61%

Islay Violets 33 Years Old

A very special 33-year-old single malt that is matured in American oak casks before being finished in Cognac barrels. This is stunningly complex with floral hints alongside rich citrus, candied ginger and cacao notes. An absolute must for any Islay fans. Alc 46.2%

Jura 18 Year Old Red Wine Finish

Created with a blend of peated and unpeated spirit, this is matured for 18 years in ex-bourbon barrels before being finished in premier grand cru classé Bordeaux barrels. A fragrant and sweetly scented whisky with notes of orange peel and cherry coming through. On the palate expect a sweetness, with dried fruits and a lightly smoked finish. Alc 44%

MacNair’s Lum Reek 21 Year Old

A serious blended malt comprising peated Islay and Speyside malts combined with older GlenAllachie single malt – beautifully aged in Oloroso, virgin oak and red wine casks. The result is a complex and heady whisky combining gentle wafts of peaty smoke with hints of tobacco, cherry fruit, dark chocolate and a spiced finish. Superbly integrated and complex. Alc 48%

Nikka Tailored Blended Japanese Whisky

Nikka Tailored is a beautiful replacement for the Nikka 12 Year Old and is a blend of mostly malted barley from the Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries, along with Coffey still grain whisky. The result is a delicate array of fruity and honeyed aromas that lead into balanced flavours of dark chocolate and roasted coffee bean. Alc 43%

Pittyvaich 1989 30 Year Old (Special Release 2020)

Part of Diageo’s much anticipated super-premium Special Release single malts, this is Pittyvaich’s third consecutive release and a truly sensational whisky from a distillery that sadly closed in 1993. Showing distinct citrus and slightly green herby overtones, the palate is plush and packed full of intriguing flavours that lead to a long finish dominated by mulled spice. Alc 50.8%

Stauning KAOS Whisky

Hailing from the west coast of Denmark, this is a distinctively different whisky made from three single malts – a no-smoke single malt, malted rye and smoked single malt. It’s matured in American oak and first-fill Maker’s Mark bourbon barrels. This is well-structured and shows all the different malt hallmarks – fruit, spice and smoke – which lead to a salted caramel finish. Perfect for the seasoned whisky drinker who thinks they have seen it all. Alc 46%

Waterford Organic Gaia 1.1 Single Malt

The first certified organic Irish whiskey made from 100% organic barley. Features a blend of American virgin oak, first-fill bourbon, French oak and vin doux naturel casks. This is a youthful and vibrant single malt with spicy, cereal notes. A well-rounded palate finishes with a delicious fruitiness. Alc 50%

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The Japanese whisky scene was created by the twin dynasties of Suntory and Nikka, inspired by Masataka Taketsuru’s fact-finding trip to Scottish distilleries over a century ago.

While distilleries such as Yamazaki and Yoichi were set up later to serve a domestic audience, the growing appeal of Japanese whiskies meant they were soon being sought on the international market, along with cult ‘lost’ distilleries Karuizawa and Hanyu, which have fetched staggering prices in auction.

These recommendations are a more accessible selection of the best whiskies, whether you’re a beginner or an aficionado in search of a special bottle.

Best Japanese whisky: for beginners

Nikka Days Blended Japanese Whisky

This is an introductory blended whisky produced in the Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries of Nikka. Bright and golden in colour, the lightly peated Nikka Days features a bouquet of cereal, roasted nuts, marmalade and spiced apple pie, with a round and creamy texture and vanilla spices on the palate. Alc 40%

Suntory Whisky Toki Whisky

A blended whisky sourced from Suntory’s Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita distilleries. The key ingredients are Hakashu single malt, which is aged in American oak, and Chita grain whisky. Lightly golden in colour, Toki has a spiced nose of creamy vanilla, white peach, apple and walnuts, honeyed and smooth on the palate, with spiced citrus fruit and a touch of acidity to balance. Alc 43%

Hatozaki Blended Whisky

The Hatozaki range is made by master distiller & blender, Kimio Yonezawa at Kaikyo Distillery in the port town of Akashi in south-west Japan. It’s named after the lighthouse ‘Hatozaki’ in Akashi harbour which is shown on the label. This is a blended whisky made with a minimum malt content of 40% and aged in a broad selection of cask sizes and types. Honeyed vanilla jumps out from the glass, followed by malt, butterscotch and minty freshness. Rounded and buttery on the palate, with bitter grapefruit peels, vanilla and white pepper on the palate, followed by a spicy finish. Alc 40%

Best Japanese whisky: under £50

Togouchi Premium Blended Japanese Whisky

Made from a combination of Scottish malt and Canadian grain in the Chugoku distillery in the town of Togouchi, this blended whisky is aged in an abandoned railway tunnel. It features a slightly peated nose of salted caramel, coconut, citrus peel and sweet spices, light-weighted and saline on the palate, smooth and creamy, filled with ripe orchard fruits. Alc 40%

Nikka From The Barrel

A blended whisky from Nikka’s Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries that supposedly deliver full flavours and richness ‘from barrels’. After blending, the liquid goes into used barrels for another few months to smooth out the edges. Bright amber coloured, with woody dried tangerine peels, bruised apple, malt, creamed sweet corn on the nose, followed by a pungent flavour profile of caramel, candied citrus, roasted nuts and vanilla. Alc 51.4%

The Chita Single Grain Whisky

A signature product from the Chita distillery of Suntory, which is located on the misty, calm shores of Chita Peninsula. With corn as its core material, this single grain whisky is aged in wine and sherry casks, in addition to the American White Oak casks. Salted caramel, candied blood orange peel, with vanilla wood and butter as the undertone, saline attack with a smooth palate of butterscotch, grapefruit and ripe peach. Alc 43%

Hatozaki Pure Malt

Another whisky from the new Katozaki range by the Kaikyo Distillery, the ‘Pure Malt’ version is a blend of single malt whiskies aged in ex-bourbon, ex-Sherry and the native Mizunara oak for a minimum of five to six years. Wood-spiced malt, dried grapefruit peel and coconut on the nose, the palate is sweet-spiced with an umami tone, plus butterscotch, dried fruit and a hint of bitter herbs. Abv 46%

Best Japanese whisky: under £100/$100

Hibiki Japanese Harmony Whisky

The Hibiki brand was first launched in 1989 to commemorate Suntory’s 90th anniversary. The ‘Japanese Harmony’ version of Hibiki is a blend of malt whiskies from the Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries and aged in a blend of casks including American white oak, Sherry barrels and the native Mizunara oak. A perfumed nose of potpourri, candied citrus fruits, sweet vanilla and raisins, sweet and smooth, with honey, butterscotch, cigar box bitterness and white pepper on the palate, complex and long. Alc 43%

Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve Single Malt Whisky

This single malt whisky is from Japan’s oldest distillery, Yamazaki of Suntory. It has been aged in Bordeaux wine barrels, which give it distinct red fruit notes, in addition to ex-Sherry casks and the native Mizunara oak. A refreshing nose of strawberry, dried cranberry, toffee, cereal and a hint of incense, which comes from the Mizunara oak. Sweet and creamy on the palate, with spiced notes of vanilla oak, butter brioche and lime zest bitterness. Alc 43%

Taketsuru Pure Malt 

Taketsuru Pure Malt is named after Nikka’s founder, Masataka Taketsuru. It is a blend of aged single malt casks from Yoichi which is aged in ex-Sherry casks; and Miyagikyo which has been aged in American oak. A complex nose of rice cakes, salted caramel, soya sauce and malted barley, with tangerine, pear drops and white flowers as the backdrop. Buttered and creamy with toffee, bitter grapefruit peel, coconut, vanilla and a hint of peat, followed by a lingering, cereal finish. Alc 43%

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Whiskies were first brought to Japan by the US military expeditions in the 1850s. Drawing the know-how from Scotch whiskies, now the nation is producing some of the best and most fashionable examples of the grain-based spirit, plus a pinch of its own twist.

From Suntory Toki at less than £30, to Yamazaki 55 Year Old which was recently sold for more than £600,000 in an HK auction, Japanese whiskies are not only gaining popularity among everyday drinkers but also are attracting a cult following among collectors.

Came with the Black Ships

The first records of whisky being drunk in Japan can be traced back to 1853, marked by the arrival of Commodore Matthew Perry’s ‘Black Ships’. The US military expedition consequently ended the island country’s 220 years of intended isolation. 

The Americans invited the local officials to banquets and treated them to the amber-coloured alcohol, likely from either Scotland or America. They were apparently impressed by this rich flavoured treat – even some of the powerful Shoguns were said to have enjoyed getting tipsy by these tasty gifts, recorded Yukio Shimatani, former Director of Suntory in his book The journey of Japanese whisky to the top of the world.

Though there were records of low-quality blended ‘whisky’ being given to the soldiers during the civil war, it was not until the Meiji era, when the Japanese people were embracing Western culture and lifestyle, that the best whiskies became available on the consumer market. Although they were still seen as a luxury beverage that’s only enjoyed by the rich and powerful. 

The dawn of Japanese whisky

The nation-wide industrial revolution combined with government support generated a booming wine and beer industry. Whisky production, however, was a harder sell at that time. The lack of knowledge is one thing, the fact that whiskies demand an extensive ageing time to become drinkable scares potential investors away.

At the turn of the century, a pioneer appeared.

Trained as a businessman, Shinjiro Torii (鳥井 信治郎, 1879-1962) worked for a pharmaceutical wholesaler from an early age. Therefore, he had rare access to imported wines and spirits, which at the time were seen as medicines from the West.

In the early 1900s, Torii started an imported wine company named ‘Kotobukiya’ and made a fortune by creating a popular blended red ‘wine’ by mixing Spanish wines with sweeteners and spices.

By coincidence, he noticed that liquor aged in wine barrels after a long period of time showed some similar characteristics to those malted spirits he’d tasted before. This discovery inspired him to venture into whisky production, despite objections from his own staff.

In 1923, he established the first-ever whisky distillery in Japan – Yamazaki Distillery – in the suburb of Kyoto, an area known for its natural supply of high-quality groundwater.

Masataka Taketsuru (竹鶴 政孝, 1894–1979), who studied whisky production for three years in Scotland, was taken on board as the distillery executive. His knowledge and understanding of Scotch whisky have laid the foundation for the Japanese take of whisky. 

In 1934, Taketsuru decided to leave the company to start his own distillery, Yoichi in Hokkaido, and established the Nikka brand.

Back to Kotobukiya, in 1936, the company changed its name to Suntory. A year later, after more than a decade of trials and errors, Yamazaki Distillery released a 12-year malt whisky, marking the dawn of quality Japanese whisky. 

Suntory’s first whisky was named as ‘Kakubin 角瓶’, or ‘square bottle’. The sweetly scented, golden-coloured spirit bottled in square-cut, tortoise-shell-shaped ‘bins’ is still one of the signature products of Suntory. 

Taketsuru, later regarded as the ‘father of Japanese whiskies’, launched his first commercial whisky in 1940 under the Nikka brand, named ‘Rare Old Nikka’. 

Suntory and Nikka as old-time rivals remain two of the most prominent Japanese whisky producers until today. 

They are now joined by an increasing number of artisan producers to keep on rolling out new styles and expressions of Japanese whiskies, reaching beyond mere ‘copycats’ of Scotch whiskies to gain global recognition. 

What’s the difference between Japanese and Scotch whisky?

Japanese whiskies tend to carry a strong Scotch influence, not only because of the similarities in production methods but also because of the ingredients.

In the early years, Japanese distilleries used to be made with only domestic barleys. However, summer heatwaves and high humidity during the growing season mean that the quality of the domestic variety ‘Nijyo Omugi 二条大麦’ is lesser than those imported from Europe. Therefore almost all of the barley used to make Japanese whiskies are imported.

However, there are several elements that set Japanese whiskies apart from their Scottish counterparts, namely:

• The collection of stills
• Style
• Water
• Oak casks

To begin with, each distillery in Japan usually has a considerable variety of stills, creating a colourful range of components for the master blenders to choose from to make a ‘single malt’. 

Stylistically, Japanese whiskies tend to be less peated compared to Scotch whiskies, although there are also premium samples that take on a strong peat influence, such as the Hakushu Heavily Peated and Yoichi Heavily Peated. 

Water is another key factor that contributes to the characters of Japanese whiskies.

‘The newly established distilleries in Japan are almost all situated on spacious lands on higher altitude… with plenty of surrounding vegetation and close to quality water sources,’ said Shimatani. The former Suntory director noted that these ‘classic Japanese landscapes’ are different from those in Scotland.

Japanese distillers and blenders believe that the chemical composition of each freshwater source contributes to the unique aroma characteristics of the whiskies made.

The use of domestic oak casks, on the other hand, brings a more direct impact on the flavour profile of Japanese whiskies.

The Mizunara oak

The first casks used to age Japanese whisky were imported sherry barrels from Spain, which were previously used for Torii’s spiced red ‘wines’. However, due to a shortage of imported casks after WWII, Japanese distilleries started to use domestic wood to age their whiskies. 

Mizunara (Quercus crispula) is among the best known and rarest materials for ageing premium Japanese whiskies.

The Mizunara oak, which is predominantly found in Eastern Asia, tends to give a distinct ‘gorgeous sweet perfume’ in addition to an ‘orange hue in the amber colour’ to the whisky. After prolonged ageing, whiskies tend to pick up an increasingly ‘incense-like’ aroma, according to Shimatani. 

Without legal regulations over the choice of whisky casks, today Japanese distilleries can bring in casks from abroad without too much hardship. Nonetheless, many producers still believe that domestic oak is an essential element to the originality of Japanese whiskies.

In fact, the fame of the precious Japanese oak has caused more distilleries in the US and Scotland to start using Mizunara oak to age their whiskies. Chivas Regal Mizunara is an example.

How to enjoy Japanese whisky

Like how you enjoy your Scotch, you can drink Japanese whisky neat or on a rock. Alternatively, enjoy them by stirring in water and ice. 

However, Japanese whisky is especially enjoyed in Japan as the heart of the hugely popular cocktail, the Highball.

The cocktail is made by firstly filling the thin and tall highball glass with ice. Next, add around 50ml of whisky and top up the glass with soda water, then garnish with a wedge of lemon or grapefruit. 

The classic cocktail, with numerous variations, is widely enjoyed in diners and bars in the country. Its popularity is said to have contributed to a new boom of single malt whiskies in Japan in the new millennium.

Similar to the way you enjoy hot Shochu, you may also dilute your Japanese whisky with two-thirds of hot water as a heartwarming alternative to a hot toddy.

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Exports of UK wine doubled from 2018 to 2019 to around 550,000 bottles, said trade body WineGB and the Department for International Trade today (8 September).

That is still small compared to Champagne or Prosecco, but it shows how wine lovers around the world have developed an interest in the burgeoning English and Welsh wine scene.

Exports constituted one tenth of the total 5.5m bottles of UK wine sold in 2019, with Norway, the US, Canada and Australia the four biggest destinations.

Sparkling styles have led the way and UK government officials highlighted English wine as a success story that could benefit from post-Brexit trade deals being negotiated with several countries.

One of those countries is Japan, which is already the third largest export market for Champagne and is now one of the fastest growing markets for UK wines, accounting for 6% of exports by volume in 2019.

Graham Stuart, UK minister for exports, said, ‘A self-confident English wine industry will be in pole position to take advantage of a future trade deal with Japan and capitalise on other agreements we will sign in the Asia-Pacific region, and across the world.’

Gusbourne Estate, based in Kent, south-east England, recently signed a deal with Japan Airways, which will see its sparkling wines sold in first-class lounges.

Balfour Hush Heath Estate, also based in Kent, will also see its wines sold by Japanese importer and distributor 21 Community, after receiving help from the UK government in organising meetings with potential partners.

Adam Williams, the winery’s sales director, said, ‘Seeing our wines in so many different countries is extremely exciting and although exporting currently represents a small part of our overall sales, they are growing significantly every year as the awareness and interest in English wines continues to grow.’

WineGB said the long-term outlook for UK wine producers was positive, despite the uncertainty and financial challenges created by the Covid pandemic in 2020.

Simon Robinson, the trade group’s chairman, said, ‘We obviously cannot overlook the seismic changes everyone has experienced this year due to COVID-19, which will no doubt be reflected in our next industry report.

‘This year has inevitably brought serious setbacks, but the industry has reacted nimbly to address the issues and as a result we have also seen significant developments in direct to consumer sales and increased growth through the UK retail sector; we therefore remain broadly positive for the future.’

Vineyard land has expanded by 150% in the last decade and a quarter of respondents to WineGB’s recent trade survey said they planned to plant more vines in the next three years.

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The avenue to Tokyo’s Meiji shrine is lined with 60 Burgundian oak barrels, stacked opposite a similar number of sake casks, as anyone visiting the city this summer for the 2020 Olympic Games will see.

Since the shrine was built to commemorate Emperor Meiji, who ruled Japan from 1867 to 1912, and sake plays a key role in Japan’s Shinto ceremonies, one might conclude that wine also has a prominent position.

In the late 19th century, Japan modernised, and an interest in wine ensued.

‘Japan shows evidence of a country defining its own wine culture’

Today, wine is not a part of daily life for most people, but there is a significant wine culture that spans formal dining to casual drinking.

France is central to Japanese wine culture. French cuisine, long seen as the pinnacle of western fine dining, has helped to cement the reputation of French wines.

Upmarket grocer Meidi-Ya promoted Château Lafite Rothschild back in 1908, for example. Christie’s conducted wine auctions in Tokyo in the 1990s – beneficiaries of the bubble economy were buyers of collectable Bordeaux.

However, it is Burgundy that has captured the imagination of connoisseurs.

Japan was relatively early to appreciate the Côte d’Or; department store Takashimaya has imported Domaine Leroy since 1972.

The barrels at Meiji shrine, installed in 2006, are testament to Burgundy’s prestige. The Japanese have traditionally favoured grand cru and premier cru over village wines.

Established restaurants age stock until it is nomigoro, or ready for drinking. Many of Japan’s fine-wine consumers are in their 60s and 70s and insist on the best.

However, even traditional restaurants use Coravin to offer smaller servings and combat rising prices and reduced consumption.

Sparkling wine is another favourite. For the past decade, Champagne has ridden a wave in Japan, which ranks only behind the UK and US in exports for volume and value.

Sommelier Makoto Abe reports that Dom Pérignon, Krug, Cristal and Belle Epoque lead the pack of prestige brands. In the clubs of Ginza, settai (business entertainment) drives consumption.

Meanwhile, private clients seek out grower Champagnes. Higher demand for Champagne has led to price rises and created a market opening for Cava, Franciacorta and other traditional-method, sparkling wines.

Japan was also early to champion natural and low-intervention wines.

In 1993, the late Shinsaku Katsuyama opened Shonzui, a Tokyo restaurant specialising in natural wines. Kenichi Ohashi MW published his book Vin Naturel in 2004.

A new generation of consumers took to the category, and natural wines are no longer confined to specialist venues. Entertaining at home is traditionally not common, and when dining out, the refrain ‘Omakase’, or ‘I leave it to you’, is often heard when ordering both food and wine.

Thus, sommeliers play a leading role in wine culture, and wine-pairing menus are popular. For these, sommeliers cast off classical ties to find the right match.

A recent lunch at L’Effervescence in Tokyo included an assemblage of sake and Barolo Chinato, a Bordeaux blend from Japanese cult producer Beau Paysage, Nicolas Joly’s Coulée de Serrant, Churton’s Petit Manseng from Marlborough and a Macvin du Jura.

This eclectic mix shows the growing appreciation of different regions and styles as more people travel abroad and see how wine is enjoyed without burdensome ceremony, then return to Japan to share their experiences.

Such insights, as well as a slowing economy, have led to a move away from formal dining and an increase in ienomi, or drinking at home.

The best retail options are department stores and independent specialists. Sadly, the emphasis on quality and variety hasn’t migrated to supermarkets.

Here, varietal labels have broadened wine’s appeal, but the selection is unlikely to inspire loyalty.

Japan has followed a well-worn path from the classic wines of France to other European regions, and to the New World.

However, Japan’s delight in high-end Burgundy, prestige cuvées and grower Champagnes, natural wines and, more recently, home-grown wines is evidence of a country defining its own wine culture.

Roddy Ropner is a wine writer based in Japan, focusing on the Japanese wine market

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Japanese rice wine is gaining popularity in the west as consumers discover its delicate charms and wonderful ability to pair with all manner of foods. We find out how is Sake made, how important is the quality of the rice and water to the process, and does it ferment in the same way as wine?

The rice

Different from our everyday cooking rice, the most important virtue of Sake rice lies in a bigger white heart (‘心白’). If you put a grain of Sake rice in front of a black background and look carefully, you can see the white starch at its heart, and the transparent protein and fat on the outside.

The outside of the rice, when cooked, gives us the rich aromas and mouthfeel. But if used in Sake production, this part of the rice tends to slow down fermentation and bring in additional flavours, which are not always desirable. Therefore, Sake producers have to mill the rice down first.

The rate of the milling is measured with a percentage called ‘Semai Buai (精米歩合)’, which indicates the ratio of the rice left after milling. The lower the percentage, the finer the material is and the more water-absorbent it becomes.

Labelling terms ‘Ginjyo (吟醸)’ and ‘Dai Ginjyo (大吟醸)’ indicate that after milling, the Sake rice is left with less than 60% and 50% respectively. Extreme examples of Dai Ginjyo include the ‘Komyo (光明, Light)’ Junmai Daiginjyo from Tate no Kawa (楯の川), which is milled down to just 1%.

However, the milling rate is not always an indicator of quality. Some producers believe that those extra flavours derived from the outer layers of the rice are part of the unique characters to a specific Shuzo (Sake winery). They may choose to keep as much as 80% of the rice after milling.

Yamada Nishiki (山田錦) and Miyama Nishiki (美山錦) are among the best Sake rice varieties; producers can select several varieties, even some cooking rice to make up a complex recipe.

The water

Water, of course, is another essential ingredient in Sake production. It can bring significant impact to the flavour profiles of Sake, as the minerals and chemicals contained in the water may affect the performance of the microbes during fermentation. Therefore each Shuzo needs to choose its water source carefully.

Fermentation

The alcoholic fermentation process of winemaking is rather straight-forward; all you need to do is wait for the yeast to convert sugar – which naturally exists in grape juice – into alcohol.

For beer, that process is more complex, as you need to firstly convert the starch in barley into sugar through malting and mashing, before you can kick start the fermentation via yeast. Generally speaking, the process is still linear.

When it comes to Sake, the processes of converting rice starch into sugar, and sugar into alcohol operate simultaneously.

Allowing various exceptions, the most common production process for still Sake is as follows.

• Steam; Producers first soak the grounded rice in water, then steam it to make it soft.
• Koji; Then they take part of the rice to spread ‘Koji’ fungus, which can release enzyme that converts starch into sugar. This part of rice is called ‘Koji Kome (麹米)’.
• Mother of alcohol; Next, they take part of this Koji-infected rice, and add more steamed rice and water, plus some lactic acid bacteria, creating the perfect habitat for yeasts to breed. When this part of the rice is populated by an enormous amount of yeasts, now we have ‘Shubo (酒母, the mother of alcohol)’.
• Fermentation; It’s time to properly launch the fermentation. Shubo is dumped into a bigger vessel, where more steamed rice, Koji-infected rice and water are added in, little by little, in three to four stages across three weeks to a month.

It’s worth noting that the fermentation of Sake is conducted under a much lower temperature than wine – only 6 to 15 degree C – so that as the Koji bacteria gradually releases sugar, the yeast slowly feeds on it.

That combined with limited added water means higher alcohol level (sometimes above 20% abv) in the freshly pressed Sake. As a comparison, in most cases wine yeasts can only naturally reach around 15% abv, before they die from the alcohol they have created.

Before pressing, producers can choose to add a small percentage of alcohol to further refine the flavours, especially to release the lifted floral, vinous aromas. ‘Junmai (純米 pure rice)’ is a labelling term used to describe Sakes without added alcohol. These Sakes tend to have richer aromas and more pronounced savoury, umami notes.

Read more about Sake classifications from Anthony Rose’s beginner’s guide…

‘Treat with fire’ and storage

After pressing (timing is crucial!), the ‘Genshu (原酒, original Sake)’ is usually filtered to remove any undesirable colour and tastes.

Different from wine, Sake is still ‘alive’ at this stage, and it turns sour rather quickly in room temperature. This is due to a type of lactic acid bacteria called ‘Hiochi (火落ち, falling into fire)’, which breeds fast in the alcoholic and slightly acidic environment of raw Sake.

To resolve this problem, producers need to pasteurise the Sake. This is known as ‘Hiire (火入れor treat with fire); it is pasteurised twice with hot water in order to kill the bacteria. The first treatment happens right after filtration.

Then the raw Sake is aged for six months to a year to round out the flavour before adjustment and bottling. Now it goes through a second pasteurisation. At this stage, Sake becomes much sturdier and can be stored in room temperature.

However, stability comes with a cost – the fresh and glorious aromas of raw Sake may well be lost in the sanitising heat. Thankfully, there are also ways to preserve the freshness. For instance, ‘Nama (生, raw)’ Sake are bottled without any heat treatment; consequentially, they need to be stored at 0 degrees Celsius to keep the bacteria at bay.

Producers may choose to perform Hiire only once; if you see ‘Nama Zume (生詰, bottled raw)’ on the label, that means the Sake has been pasteurised only once before aging. ‘Nama Chozo (生貯蔵, stored raw)’, on the other hand, indicates that the treatment happened only after bottling.

Although these two styles are more stable than Nama Sake, it is still advisable to store them in fridge to retain their youthful and generous aromas.

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I’m standing in a vineyard where the vines look like small trees, their branches spread in a high canopy with pink-skinned grape bunches protected from rain by small wax paper hats. Anyone who has visited Yamanashi, Japan’s wine country, would instantly recognise them as Koshu, the unique white grape variety that the Japanese have been, justifiably, busy promoting internationally.

I became a Koshu fan on my recent visit, but the bigger surprise was how intriguing I found Japanese wines from more familiar grapes. The most impressive one I tried was Grace Wine’s Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014, a traditional-method sparkling Chardonnay like a fine grower Champagne.

This led me to wondering whether Japan has to go beyond Koshu to become a global wine hot spot. Yes, Koshu’s low-alcohol crispness and range of styles, from sur lie to skin-fermented orange wines, put it squarely in today’s wine zeitgeist. But I’m convinced Japan’s take on Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will be even more key in getting less adventurous drinkers to think of the country as the wine world’s new star.

Few drinkers realise that Japan is now home to four major wine regions and 418 wineries, according to the latest figures from the National Tax Agency (Koshu grapes are grown almost exclusively in Yamanashi). And last year, the country took a big step forward towards international recognition and quality by requiring wines labelled ‘Japan Wine’ to be made from grapes that are grown in Japan.

New Zealand is probably the first country propelled to wine fame by a single variety with its distinctive Sauvignon Blancs. Japan seems to be trying to follow its route. The owner of Grace Wine, Shigekazu Misawa, helped found Koshu of Japan a decade ago, and it hosts annual tastings in London.

It makes sense to lead with native grapes, especially when Koshu wines have improved so much in the past decade, thanks to advice from Bordeaux wine wizard, the late Denis Dubourdieu. Bone-dry, intensely mineral and fragrant, they deserve wider appreciation. (I don’t have equal confidence in Japan’s native red Muscat Bailey A, a cross between an American hybrid and Muscat of Hamburg, whose wines taste of candied strawberries.)

But I hope winemakers will highlight their wines made from European varieties. Many had a subtlety that seems to be a hallmark of Japanese wines. I tasted a light, juicy Zweigelt and a crisp, aromatic Kerner, both from the Hokkaido Wine Co. The cool northern island is also the best bet for Pinot Noir, which the world can never seem to get enough of.

Even in Yamanashi, almost every winery offers wines from varieties besides Koshu. At Lumiere, a spicy Tempranillo and a soft, plummy Cabernet Franc stood out. Grace Wine, which makes several top Koshus, also excels with Bordeaux varieties. Its 2015 Cuveé Misawa, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, is complex, silky textured, long and elegant. ‘Petit Verdot does especially well here,’ says winemaker Ayana Misawa, a graduate of the University of Bordeaux who has also dabbled with Albariño.

Because of Japan’s humid climate, growing European grapes is difficult. In their focus on finding the right terroirs for specific grapes, many wineries are turning to higher altitudes and making more single-vineyard wines.

Suntory’s Tomi No Oka winery, at the forefront of growing Bordeaux grapes, makes a spicy, cherryish Premium Iwadarehara Merlot from a gravelly river terrace vineyard. ‘Our goals have changed,’ says Hiromichi Yoshino of its wine development division. ‘Before our target of taste was Bordeaux. Now we want to express our own terroir.’

Japan seemed a hotbed of the kind of experimentation essential for getting global attention. Boutique wineries are opening, and oenotourism is starting. Michelin-starred restaurants showcase the wines. Next year’s Tokyo Olympics will spread the word to the world. And it shouldn’t be just about Koshu.

See also: Japanese Koshu – Wines to try

It blends old with new in seamless fashion, and is home to some of the world’s finest restaurants. Below, local journalist Akihiko Yamamoto picks some of his favourite places to eat and drink...

Our favourite Tokyo wine bars and restaurants

1 Ginza Kojyu

Refined and eccentric Japanese cuisine from chef Toru Okuda, combined with warm hospitality. Seasonal foods are inspired by the Kaiseki aesthetic traditions and served in dramatic fashion. Okuda has a sommelier diploma, and the food pairing with wine and saké is outstanding. He also runs a Japanese restaurant in Paris. www.kojyu.jp

2 L’Effervescence

Innovative French cuisine from a young chef, Shinobu Namae, who served as sous chef at The Fat Duck and the Bras family’s Toya Japan. Japanese ingredients and French technique are beautifully integrated. This two-star Michelin establishment is one of the most difficult restaurants to book, but it’s worth the effort to try. www.leffervescence.jp

3 Tsukiji Information Center

Tour company specialising in Tsukiji market visits and Japanese culture. Tours of the market with English-speaking guides can also include short courses in sushi or soba noodle making, or a visit to the kabuki theatre where you can enjoy different Japanese green teas. A range of other activities is also offered and the company can advise on how to register for the tuna auction in Tsukiji market. www.tsukijitour.com

4 Birdland

The first one-star Michelin yakitori (Japanese-style skewered chicken) restaurant. Chef Wada grills different parts of the chicken, timed accurately to the second; the exquisite liver is juicy and tasty. He selects saké and wines to match with the different yakitori dishes. This is a restaurant that’s visited by many famous wine producers. www.ginza-birdland.sakura.ne.jp

5 Tsubaki Wine Bar

Takeshi Tsubaki has run this legendary wine bar for 25 years. The price of old French wines can be lower here than in France: just viewing the selection of Bordeaux and Burgundy is an entertainment in itself. It also offers wonderful food cooked with truffle or foie gras. Popular with foreign visitors.

+81 3 5485 1410

6 An Di

An upcoming modern Vietnamese restaurant with a fabulous list of natural wines, sakés and spirits. The ownersommelier is an international wine consultant – many producers and Masters of Wine arrive by introduction of Ken Ohashi MW. www.andivietnamese.com

7 Sushi Fujimori

This sushi restaurant serves only omakase meals comprising about 12 dishes (omakase is the Japanese tradition of letting a chef choose your food), including grilled fish and seasonal sushi. Tuna is recommended. The well-considered wine list includes The Sadie Family wines and Chasselas from Switzerland.

+81 3 3406 0141

8 Ippudo

Top Japanese ramen restaurant expanding across Asia, Europe and the US. Hakata ramen is produced with Tonkotsu pork broth and premium, house-made thin noodles: it’s very creamy and crunchy. There are 21 Ippudo branches in Tokyo. www.ippudo.com

9 Wine Shop Enoteca

Leading wine importer’s biggest retail shop in Ginza and a showcase for wine retail in Japan. The 1,600 items stocked range from Japanese wines to large-format Bordeaux. Bottles purchased can be opened and tasted for an extra charge of about £8. www.enoteca.co.jp

10 Seiju

One-star Michelin tempura restaurant close to Tsukiji market. The excellent omakase menu of 12 dishes costs €130. Their technique of dehydrating fresh fish and vegetables is superb. The chef visits the Burgundy region regularly, and this restaurant has the best wine list of any tempura restaurant.

+81 3 3546 2622

Akihiko Yamamoto is a leading wine journalist in Japan, and founder of the country’s first online wine subscriber platform Wine Report.

This first appeared in Decanter magazine. Subscribe to Decanter here.

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Andrew Jefford raises a question or two about the wine world’s latest infatuation - with sake...

Sake: Wine’s Japanese fling

What do we call it? Acceptance? Absorption? Adoption? Whatever word you prefer, the process is well under way: sake now seems to belong on wine lists and in wine magazines. Wine lovers revealing ignorance of or disaffection for this newly fashionable drink court opprobrium.

• Sake: A beginner’s guide and top recommendations

This year’s most commented-on (and thus perhaps influential) Wine Advocate review did not cover Bordeaux 2015 or Napa 2014, but was a report written about sake by Chinese contributor Liwen (Martin) Hao, a journalist whom I have had the pleasure of tasting wine with at the Decanter Asia Wine Awards in the past.

A poorly drafted and imperfectly edited Financial Times article contrived to suggest the notes were Parker’s own, which may or may not have triggered the resulting sales stampede; and as W.Blake Grey has revealed in a fascinating post on his website, all of the sakes reviewed in the Advocate were offered for sale, at sometimes inflated prices, on the day the report appeared by a newly established Tokyo company via a website which has subsequently and mysteriously disappeared. Those posting to Blake Grey’s site suggest that this fugitive company had connections with one which has organised Wine Advocate events in Japan.

• First UK sake brewery approved

Around a month after the Liwen Hao report, Jancis Robinson MW covered sake for the Financial Times and her own website, as she had done in 2008. (Jancis, not in general a fan of heady wine, was perhaps surprisingly “uplifted by the subtle variations in these cool, ineffably pure, limpid ferments, averaging about 16 per cent alcohol”.) The Wine and Spirit Education Trust teaches sake courses; the International Wine Challenge judges sake. Decanter, too, is preparing to expand its coverage and scrutiny of sake.

All of this is very good news for sake producers, since in Japan, the drink is far from fashionable, and has been tanking ever since 1975; it now has just 6.8% of Japan’s alcoholic beverage market, having lost around two-thirds of its market share since the 1975 peak. Japanese fashionistas prefer wine.

My own road-to-Damascus moment with sake has yet to come, but I am ardently in favour of the wine world’s celebration and acceptance of Japan’s ancient, complex and culturally rich national beverage. Indeed I remember attempting to research sake for London’s The Evening Standard in the 1980s, writing to a number of sake producers in Japan and trying to arrange a visit there, and meeting at that stage with a total lack of interest in sake exports to the UK. Any reader who already has the sake bug, by the way, should try to get hold of the beautiful and thorough Sake: The History, Stories and Craft of Japan’s Artisanal Breweries by Elliot Faber and Hayato Hishinuma, published by Gatehouse in Singapore: a fine tribute to this culture.

But wine’s Japanese fling leaves me with just one question: what about beer?

Drinks, whether alcoholic or not, are generally made from fruits, grains or leaves. Tea, for example, is made from leaves; coffee from fruits.

Among alcoholic drinks, wine, cider and brandy are made from fruits (grapes and apples), while sake and whisky are made from grains (rice and barley, wheat, maize or rye). Beer is made from barley grains, too, generally with a flavouring from leaves (since a hop bract is more leaf than flower).

The ‘wine world’ is, strictly speaking, fruit-only. So if the wine world is ready to clasp one drink made from grain to its bosom, why not another? If sake, why not beer?

Perhaps the answer is no more complicated than that sake is roughly the same alcoholic strength as strong wine or fortified wine, and that you can also drink it, chilled, from a wine glass if you wish. That, though, seems rather simple-minded.

Perhaps wine and sake’s kinship is that both drinks come from intricate, long-established cultures? So too, though, does beer, which has been brewed for 7,000 years, and whose indigenous culture in the British Isles, Belgium, Holland and Germany is every bit as intricate as European wine traditions and Japanese sake traditions.

Never mind history, then; perhaps the difference is that wine and sake are both more aromatically subtle and more complex in flavour terms than is beer?

Let me just say this: the only alcoholic drink I have ever enjoyed which can truly compete with fine wine in terms of subtlety, nuance and the kind of transcendence of flavour which can dazzle aesthetically as well as hedonically is great English cask-conditioned ale. This is rarely more than half as strong as most sake, but Belgian ales are as fine and sometimes rival wine strengths. American micro-brewed renditions and tributes to these European beer styles are, too, shockingly complex and refined (and strong). I doubt that sake is ‘more’ complex than this, though it may well be as complex, and of course each drink’s spectrum of complexities lie in a different register.

Is is, then, down to techniques? Sake uses umami-suggestive koji fungus (Aspergillus oryzae) in order to render rice fermentable – but beer brewers malt barley in order to render it fermentable, too; moreover they use a spectrum of yeast types of much greater complexity than either sake brewers or wine makers. The precise nature of a particular water source is vital for sake – but the terroir-like effect of using water which has traversed gypsum beds in Burton-upon-Trent for classic English pale ale styles, for example, is no less significant. Aged versions of both sake and beer exist (though both must defer to wine in respect of the complexities wrought by age). Both sake and beer, too, are lower in acidity and higher in pH than wine.

Neither sake-fans nor beer-lovers will like me saying this, but both of these grain-based drinks are industrial rather than (like wine) agricultural. Their subtleties, in other words, are the result of craft and recipe, and owe nothing to any intrinsic weather-related seasonal variability, or to any defining circumscription of origin in terms of raw material. If you want more of a particular beer or sake, you buy more raw materials and turn on the tap. The notion of vintage or site (as in the Burgundian climat) exists in neither world, other than as a marketing gimmick. Most beer and sake is pasteurised.

I guess some wine drinkers would object to the bitter flavours in beer, derived from the resins and essential oils in the lupulin glands of hop bracts; these are not a feature of sake. Many wines, though, derive a part of their complexity from bitter flavours, and (globally speaking) the vast majority of beers are barely bitter at all. Hops in general are divided into ‘aroma hops’ and ‘bittering hops’, and fine beer in almost every brewing tradition is principally flavoured with noble aroma hops (hence its extraordinary aromatic complexity).

The real reason for the adoption of sake (but not beer) by the wine world, it seems to me, must be its novelty – always fashionably attractive – and its exoticism. Poor old beer is just too familiar to be taken seriously by the wine world’s Brahmins, hierophants, couturiers, gatekeepers and mayflies: a notable injustice.

When it comes to divisions of this sort, in fact, I am a radical libertarian in any case, and would love to write about almost any drink of complexity and interest, and especially tea and beer, which I love as much as wine. Pending a big bang in Decanter’s philosophy and vocation, though, it will be back to wine next week.

More Jefford on Monday: 

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The latest edition of the Michelin Guide in the UK has awarded two stars each to Japanese restaurants, Araki and Umu, in London.

The gains for the two Japanese restaurants were two of the most eye catching elements of the UK Michelin Guide 2016, which also further expanded its list of recommendations beyond London.

‘It is a great compliment to London that when Sushi Master Mitsuhiro Araki closed his three-star counter restaurant in Tokyo it was because he wanted to come to the UK to challenge himself in a different culture,’ said Michelin guide editor Rebecca Burr.

However, both restaurants demonstrate very different styles of Japanese cuisine, Burr added. ‘[Umu] Chef Yoshinori Ishii has steadily been improving the food and he has taken it to a whole new level.’

This year’s guide also continues from last year in celebrating more restaurants outside of the capital, with 11 of the 15 new one-star establishments outside of London.

Leeds received a Michelin star, for The Man Behind the Curtain from chef Michael O’Hare, who recently won the North-East regional heat on the BBC One programme, Great British Menu.

‘The next generation of chefs are really coming through to give the established chefs a run for their money. They all have their own individual style and their ability… looks set to lead them on to great things,’ said Burr.

Newcastle upon Tyne received a star for House of Tides, as did Birmingham for Carters of Moseley.

Whilst Wales did not receive any new stars, five restaurants across Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland were awarded one star each.

The new one-star restaurants in London are Lyle’s in Shoreditch, Bonhams in Mayfair, Portland in Marlyebone and Dining Room at the Goring.

This year, three-star restaurant The Fat Duck from Heston Blumenthal will be absent from the guide, after it’s temporary move to Australia, which meant it has not reopened in time to be assessed.

The other UK three-star restaurants – Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Gordon Ramsay and the Waterside Inn – remain.

In total in the UK there are 23 two-star restaurants, 143 one-star and 155 Bib Gourmands – 25 of which are new this year.

Japanese wine drinkers are increasingly open to trying new styles and countries as the country’s wine market ‘comes of age’, according to a new report.

International wine trade exhibition group Vinexpo launched Vinexpo Nippon in Tokyo in November 2014.

Chile has been a major beneficiary of this maturing trend in Japan, with the country’s wines more than tripling their share of the market over the past seven years and overtaking France late in 2014, says Rabobank in its latest wine quarterly report.

The Netherlands-based bank said many wine exporters had turned their backs on Japan when the market fell away 16 years ago, focusing instead on the potential of Hong Kong and Mainland China.

‘But in more recent years, the hype surrounding the China wine market boom has coincided with a significant, yet much less publicised, renewed interest in wine across the Sea of Japan,’ said Marc Soccio, report co-author and Rabobank senior wine analyst.

‘This has opened the way for New World producers, most notably Chile, to gain a foothold in the market.’

In particular, the ratification of the Japan-Chile Economic Partnership Agreement in 2007 had prompted cuts in import tariffs, with Chile’s share of wine import volumes moving from 7.5% in 2007 to more than 25% in late 2014, overtaking France.

Australian winemakers are also seeking a greater presence in Japan after the two countries implemented an economic partnership agreement earlier this year. The deal is set to eliminate Japanese import tariffs on Australian wine withing seven to 10 years.

Soccio said new generations of consumers, including female drinkers, were bringing a new perspective to wine, driving growth of premium sparkling wines.

Other New World countries and ‘less familiar’ Old World powers, such as Spain, are expected to benefit in future.

According to provisional figures from market research group IWSR, Japan ranked eighth in the list of wine importing countries, importing a total of just over 25m cases in 2014.

See also:

• Blog: Should we stop talking about New World and Old World wine?
• Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2013: Japan claims first Decanter regional trophy

Written by Richard Woodard

Taste award-winning wines at Craft Hands throughout November

Follow the DWWA Global Tastings on social media:

Twitter: @DecanterAwards #dwwaglobaltastings

Facebook: Search for Decanter World Wine Awards

Wines to taste:

• Marcelli Tulio, La Torre, Chianti Riserva, Tuscany 2010 (Red) – Silver
• Olagosa, Blanco Fermentado en Barrica, Rioja, Mainland Spain 2013 (White) – Silver
• Yalumba, Y Series Viognier, South Australia 2013 (White) – Gold
• Babich, Black Label Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2013 (White) – Gold
• Peter Lehmann, Margaret Semillon, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2008 (White) – Gold
• Callia, Magna Malbec, Pedernal Valley, San Juan 2012 (Red) – Gold
• Château Mercian, Barrel Fermented Koshu, Yamanashi, Chubu 2012 (White) – Silver
• Suntory, Premium Koshu, Yamanashi, Chubu 2012(White) – Silver
• Château Jolys, Cuvée Pauline, Jurançon Sec, Southwest France 2013 (White) – Gold
• Caruso & Minini, Terre di Giumara Nero d’Avola, Sicilia, Sicily 2011 (Red) – Gold
• Indómita, Gran Reserva Carignan, Maule 2012 (Red) – Gold
• Mt Difficulty, Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2012 (Red) – Gold
• Ventisquero, Grey Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, San Antonio 2012 (Red) – Gold
• Toneles, Tonel 22 Malbec, Mendoza 2012 (Red) – Gold

Taste award-winning wines at Ornis throughout November

Follow the DWWA Global Tastings on social media:

Twitter: @DecanterAwards #dwwaglobaltastings

Facebook: Search for Decanter World Wine Awards

Wines to taste:

• Amalaya, Tinto de Corte, Calchaquíes, Salta 2013 (Red) – Gold
• Nepenthe, Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2012 (Red) – Commended
• Peter Lehmann, VSV 1885 Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2012 (Red) – Bronze
• Tamaya, T Limited Release Syrah, Limarí Valley 2011 (Red) – Bronze
• Torrevento, Ottagono Castel del Monte Riserva , Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva, Puglia 2011 (Red) – Silver
• Feudo Arancio, Nero d’Avola, Sicilia, Sicily 2012 (Red) – Commended
• Clemente VII, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany 2010 (Red) – Commended
• Tinedo, Cala N.1, Castilla, Mainland Spain 2011 (Red) – Bronze
• Colomé, Torrontés, Calchaquíes, Salta 2013 (White) – Commended
• Vina Cobos, Felino Chardonnay, Mendoza 2013 (White) – Bronze
• Peter Lehmann, Wigan Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia 2008 (White) – Silver
• Voyager Estate, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia, 2010, Australia (White) – Bronze
• Tamaya, T Limited Release Chardonnay, Limarí Valley 2011 (White) – Commended
• Eric Louis, , Pouilly-Fumé, Loire 2013 (White) – Commended
• Franz Haas, Manna, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 2011 (White) – Bronze
• Lawson’s Dry Hills, Gewürztraminer, Marlborough 2012 (White) – Dry Aromatic Trophy under £15

Taste award-winning wines at Takamura Wine House throughout November

Follow the DWWA Global Tastings on social media:

Twitter: @DecanterAwards #dwwaglobaltastings

Facebook: Search for Decanter World Wine Awards

Wines to taste:

• Cono Sur, Ocio, Casablanca Valley 2012 (Red) – Silver
• Cono Sur, 20 Barrels Merlot, Colchagua 2011 (Red) – Silver
• Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy 2012 (White) – Gold
• Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy 2012 (White) – Gold
• Torreón de Paredes, Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon, Rengo, Cachapoal 2010 (Red) – Bronze
• Domaine Zinck, Gewurztraminer, Alsace, 2012 (White) – Silver
• Carchelo, Jumilla, Mainland Spain 2012 (Red) – Silver
• Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Réserve Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux 2011 (Red) – Bronze
• Yarden, Chardonnay, Golan Heights, Galilee 2012 (White) – Silver
• Yarden, Merlot, Golan Heights, Galilee 2008 (Red) – Bronze
• Château Montus, Madiran, Southwest France 2009 (Red) – Gold
• Mazzei, Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, 2011 (Red) – Bronze
• Chakana, Estate Selection Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2013, (Red) – Gold
• Sileni, The Plateau Pinot Noir, Hawke’s Bay 2013 (Red) – Bronze
• Louis Jadot, Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais 2011 (Red) – Silver
• Henri Bourgeois, Le MD de Bourgeois, Sancerre, Loire 2012 (White) – Gold

Moet Hennessy's Champagne sales continued to rise in the first quarter of 2014, driven by markets outside of Europe.

Moet Hennessy’s parent firm, luxury goods giant LVMH, said yesterday (10 April) that group Champagne sales rose by 3% in volume terms for the three months to the end of March, versus the same period of 2013.

Prestige cuvees fuelled growth for the Krug and Dom Perignon producer, while consumer demand appeared to be strongest outside of Champagne’s traditional European markets. The firm singled out Japan as a key growth market.

However, Moet Hennessy’s Champagne and still wines division reported first-quarter net sales broadly flat against last year, at €339m.

The news came as new figures showed overall Champagne shipments to the UK – the largest export market for the sector – fell by 5% in volume and almost 4% in value in 2013.

Written by Chris Mercer

A Japanese wine has won a regional trophy at the Decanter Asia Wine Awards (DAWA) for the first time in all Decanter competitions, according to the newly-released results for this year's competition.

Judges were unanimous in the decision to award a gold medal and regional trophy to Grace winery’s 2012 Gris de Koshu, a 100% Koshu white wine from the Yamanashi area of Japan’s Chubu region.

Regional trophies are gold medal-winning wines that have been deemed best-in-class in their particular region or area.

‘It is exciting to see some great wines from Japan,’ said Jeannie Cho Lee MW, who co-chaired the DAWA 2013 alongside Steven Spurrier.

Cho Lee was one of 44 top wine experts from across Asia and around the world who descended on Hong Kong to judge more than 2,300 wines between 16 and 19 September, which led to 2,023 medals being awarded.

Vice-chairs were Gerard Basset MS MW OBE, Decanter columnist Andrew Jefford, Michael Hill-Smith MW from Australia, Shinya Tasaki from Japan and Ch’ng Poh Tiong from Singapore.

Cho Lee highlighted the growing presence of wines from within Asia at the awards, now in their second year. ‘This year’s DAWA had strong support from Asian producers and the number of wines from China and India has grown substantially since last year,’ she told decanter.com, following the results announcement today (23 October).

India failed to scoop a gold medal or regional trophy from its 16 entries, but did manage one silver, nine bronzes and four ‘commended’ wines. Wines from China also missed gold this year, and only half of its 36 entries secured a medal, but the country did still collect two silvers and five bronzes, as well as 11 commended.

Among the other contenders, Australia again stood out as it did at the recent Decanter World Wine Awards, with 18 golds and 11 regional trophies, albeit from 614 entries – a significantly higher figure than other countries.

In Europe, Italy’s Veneto area secured four regional trophies and four golds from a relatively small 84 entries.

Meanwhile, in France, a revitalised Languedoc-Roussillon scooped two regional trophies from 59 entries, versus just one regional trophy from 88 entries for Bordeaux.

‘In today’s wine world, particularly in Asia, nothing, not even historical reputations, can be taken for granted,’ noted Spurrier, writing on DAWA in his column for Decanter Magazine’s upcoming December issue.

The competition’s top awards, the prestigeous International Trophies, will be unveiled next month at ProWine in China on Wednesday 13th November.

Click to see the full results of the Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2013

Written by Chris Mercer

The developer behind upscale Tokyo 'wine apartments' that include shared access to a 10,000-bottle wine cellar has said he plans to build more, after opening his first complex in the city.

(Sommelier Ishida Hiroshi has acted as a consultant to the development)

Takayuki Suzuki, owner of Inovv Inc property development firm, told decanter.com his first set of wine apartments, in the Japanese capital’s Shibuya district, are 70% rented.

Known as The Wine Apartments, monthly rents range from JPY239,000 to JPY258,000 (GBP1600), for a 42 to 46 square-metre space. The 18 flats each come with a wine fridge, plus shared access to an onsite sommelier and a basement wine cellar, which commands an extra fee.

‘The first renter has now moved in,’ Suzuki said. ‘Our typical clients are wine crazies, cooking instructors, wine importers, winery owners.’

He is planning a second wine apartment complex, also in Tokyo, to open in 2015.

Taizo Osawa, owner of Osawa winery in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay, confirmed to decanter.com that he has rented one apartment as a tasting space and plans to keep 300 bottles there.

Similar formats have had a mixed response elsewhere. ‘My flat also has wine cellar in a public space, but I’ve never seen anybody use it,’ said Tadashi Yasuda, director of Pillari Wine in Hong Kong.

A bistro is due to open at the Tokyo complex in November, charging JPY2,000 on residents’ own wines.

Written by Jane Anson

Scientists in Japan claim to have 'completely changed' our understanding of the way cork taint in wine works.

Instead of emitting a bad odour as previously thought, the main chemical responsible for cork taint, known as TCA, is believed to alter drinkers’ senses by shutting down their ability to smell.

The findings are part of a study led by Japanese researchers and published online by the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences in the US.

‘The concept regarding the effect of TCA has been completely changed from this study,’ two of the authors, Dr Hiroko Takeuchi and Dr Takashi Kurahashi from Osaka University, told decanter.com.

Commenting on the findings, they said that the study suggests musty smells often found in wines with cork taint may be caused by the suppression of ‘olfactory receptor cells in the nose’.

This, they said, is not as unusual as it seems. ‘It is not so surprising in humans that suppression causes sensation, as exemplified in vision. One will see an opponent colour when a pre-exposed colour is suddenly removed, for example a green spot after a red spot.’

By understanding more about the processes of TCA, the research should help producers to improve the quality of their wines. The same is true for a range of foods and packaging, which have also been shown to contain TCA.

They added, ‘the logic may be applicable to invent novel masking agents for suppressing bad odours surrounding our life, and also channel inhibitors that include anesthesia and pain relief’.

Written by Chris Mercer

Legrand Filles et Fils, one of Paris' most famous wine businesses, has sold a majority stake to a Japanese investor.

Amane Nakashima, president of food group Nakashimato, has bought 78% of the shares of the €25 million turnover Legrand Filles et Fils, the distribution and négociant company Legrand & Associées, and fine wine store Peter Thustrup.

Gérard Sibourd-Baudry, who has run Legrand since 2000, will continue to own 22%, and will also remain in his role of managing director.

The store dates back to the 19th century and the current interior dates from 1900, opening onto Galerie Vivienne, one of the most attractive old-style arcades in the French capital, with cellars extending underneath the shop.

It was run by the Legrand family from the end of World War I until 2000, when the inheritors ceded their shares to an investment group led by Christian de Chateauvieux and Sibourd-Baudry. Chateauvieux has sold his stake in its entirety.

‘We have been thinking about this for the past few years, and all decisions have been taken with great care and consideration,’ Sibourd-Baudry told decanter.com. ‘We already see 15% of our turnover in Japan, 80% outside of France, and have 13 different nationalities working across the business. At first we were looking for a French investor, but soon realised that finding the right partner was more important than any other consideration.’

In 2010, the Nakashima family bought Folium Vineyards in Marlborough, New Zealand, and are looking to develop the Legrand brand. ‘The wine selection will not change, but we will look to deepen relationships with suppliers. In the future, if the timing is right, we would consider opening a store outside of France, possibly in Japan. But this is not about refocusing our attention on Asia, just expanding our opportunities.’

The purchase price is thought to be around €16 million, with the sale overseen by the Rothschild bank.

Written by Jane Anson

English sparkling producer Nyetimber is taking on the biggest names in Champagne by becoming the first English sparkling wine to win distribution throughout Japan – a country that loves its prestige cuvées and grower Champagnes.

Big in Japan: Nyetimber

The West Sussex producer even took the unusual step of unveiling its 2009 Nyetimber Rosé in Japan two weeks before the wine’s UK launch.

From June this year, Tokyo-based distributor Enoteca, which also imports Louis Roederer Champagne, will sell a selection of Nyetimber wines, including the rosé, Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2008 and Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2007.

‘Japan is an extremely sophisticated market for sparkling wine,’ said Christian Holthausen, the company’s marketing and communications manager.

‘It is often noted that Japan imports a higher percentage of “special cuvées” than other markets but, more importantly, 7% of Japan’s imports from the region are “grower Champagnes” or single estate producers.’

Describing Enoteca as ‘the ideal partner’ and ‘our absolute first choice’, Holthausen added, ‘We were particularly impressed with their fine representation of Louis Roederer.’

He said the company had an important role to play in educating the Japanese consumer about Nyetimber, ensuring that people gained a greater appreciation of English sparkling wine.

The news was announced at the Queen’s Birthday Party event in Tokyo, hosted by British ambassador Tim Hitchens, and at which Nyetimber Classic Cuvée was served to 1,000 guests.

Written by Richard Woodard