On April 17, wine lovers will raise a glass of full-bodied red in honour of Malbec’s remarkable rise to prominence. This popular grape was in danger of fading into obscurity in France, but it crossed the globe and reinvented itself as Argentina’s flagship variety. Malbec is now flourishing around the world, from California to China, while it continues to go from strength to strength in its Mendoza heartland.

Why April 17?

On April 17, 1853, President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento of Argentina hatched a plan to modernise the country’s wine industry. He hired French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget, who brought a series of European vine cuttings across the Andes. Pouget experimented with a bunch of French varieties, but it was Malbec that thrived in Argentina’s diverse terroirs.

In 2011, Wines of Argentina launched World Malbec Day to celebrate the anniversary of the grape’s reinvention. It’s a popular event in Argentina, but Malbec World Day has spread around the world, with a busy schedule of tastings and events.

From French châteaux to the Andean foothills

Malbec originated in the French region of Cahors in around 150 AD. It proved popular with Europe’s elites in the Middle Ages, especially with Eleanor of Aquitaine. However, the grape – known locally as Côt – faded in the ensuing centuries. A devastating frost in 1956 then wiped out around three-quarters of France’s Malbec vineyards.

On the other side of the world, Malbec was beginning to shine. In Mendoza’s sun-drenched, high-altitude vineyards, the grape found conditions it could only dream of in France: dry air, intense sunshine, dramatic day-to-night temperature swings and virtually no rot.

Malbec responded by producing deeply coloured wines with velvety tannins, ripe dark berry flavours and its signature floral lift. Today, Argentina is home to around 85% of the world’s Malbec plantings, and the variety’s expressions range from the rich, concentrated reds of Maipú’s older vines to the elegant, mineral-driven wines emerging from the cooler, higher reaches of the Uco Valley and Salta’s vertiginous vineyards.

Scroll down to discover top-scoring Malbec wines from DWWA 2025

A versatile variety

Malbec’s appeal lies in its versatility. The grape delivers approachable, fruit-forward wines at everyday price points, but it can also produce age-worthy wines that perfectly express the local terroir, rivalling the world’s finest reds. It takes beautifully to oak, developing notes of chocolate, vanilla and tobacco, and it also works well in blends.

Beyond Argentina, it continues to thrive in Cahors – where it is enjoying a renaissance – and Malbec is also gaining ground in Chile, Australia and Californian regions like Napa and Paso Robles. They’re even making high-quality Malbec in China’s Ningxia region.

This April 17, whether you opt for a bold Mendoza classic or a brooding Côt from Cahors, pull the cork and raise a glass to one of wine’s great reinventions. Few grapes have travelled so far and come back with such a good story to tell.

Argentina

Durigutti Family Winemakers, Proyecto Las Compuertas 5 Suelos, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Multitudes of cherries, blackberries, plums and blueberries entangled in a lavish sage and lavender fragrance. Silky smooth and finely textured with svelte tannins whilst retaining a vigour and verve which flows unswervingly to the finish line. Alcohol 13%

Etchart, Single Vineyard, Cafayate, Salta 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Archetypal high-altitude Malbec exuding all the classic hallmarks: plums, blackberries and cherries underpinned by a lively herbal core. Snappy and energising, a spicy balsamic character saunters over the palate and conjoins with a stony mineral note to end. Alc 14%

Finca Flichman, Microterroir Gravel & Stone, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021
Platinum, 97 points
Incomparable splendour and sophistication emanates with layer upon layer of violets, blueberries, liquorice and dark chocolate which infuse with the rapturous tannins and bracing beam of acidity. Ample and mouth-filling with a refined mineral length. Alc 14%

Domaine Bousquet, Finca Lalande Organic, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Brilliant blackberry and sweet cherry fruit with rippling graphite and savoury spice notes. Ripe tannin, zesty acidity and a very long finish maintain the bright focus to the last. Alc 14%

Finca Sophenia, E's Vino, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Rippling with succulent blueberry fruit and violet, floral perfume with an energising palate of plump fleshy tannins and zingy acidity, concluding with a balsamic twist. Alc 14%

Huichaira, Cielo Arriba, Jujuy 2022
Gold, 95 points
The epitome of a wine from incredibly high altitudes; layers of blackcurrant, sweet spicy herbs and florals are enmeshed in satin texture and tannins with breath-taking acidity to boot. Alc 14%

Majestic, Zuccardi Definition, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022
Value Gold, 95 points
Tenacious ripe blackberries, blueberries and cherries rumble over the savoury spice and smoky oak core. Firm and powerful with bold, grippy tannins and a peppery finale. Alc 14.5%

Marks & Spencer, Collection Susana, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Splendid blue fruit and violet perfume interweaves nicely with the plush tannins and densely structured palate, with a bite of mineral fresh acidity to finish. Alc 14%

Santa Julia, Family Reserve, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Abundant red and blue fruits with hints of violet and mint. Richly structured with chalky tannins, cocoa notes to fill out the fruit and vivacious acidity: generous Mendoza classicism. Alc 13.5%

Viñalba, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
A buoyant parade of damsons, plums and cherries with a fresh herbal energy kept in check by the soothing acidity and softening tannins. Charm personified. Alc 13.5%

Chile

Viña Undurraga, Red Field Blend, Maule 2022
Gold, 95 points
Aromatic blackberry, violet petals and pink peppercorn notes provide interest and intrigue with a mouth-watering juiciness driving through the palate. Soothing, smooth and reassuringly long. Alc 14.5%

China

Mountain Wave, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
Gold, 96 points
Hugely concentrated damson florals, black cherries and plums with a bewitching clove and vanilla aspect. Stylish and plush with silky tannins and a lofty, lingering acidity. Superb! Alc 14%

France

Château de Haute-Serre, Grand, Cahors, Southwest France 2023
Platinum, 97 points
A spine-tingling drive of energy and allure: sweet damsons, red berries and fragrant spices permeate the impeccably structured palate, complete with sleek tannins and an inviting acidity. Attractive and beautifully fresh with a moreish finish. Alc 14%

Clos Triguedina, Cahors, Southwest France 2021
Gold, 95 points
Towering with intense black fruit, black pepper and sweet oak spice which unfolds over the velvety structure and confident tannins displaying great typicity and charisma. Alc 13%

United States

Clos du Val, Stags Leap District, California 2022
Gold, 95 points
A powerhouse of crushed blackberries, plums and blueberry vanilla compote with a slick smoky cedarwood persistence. Structured and bold with decisive tannins and a lively finish. Alc 15%

Search all DWWA 2025 results

Related articles

Cahors is undergoing a quiet revolution.

This beautiful part of southwest France – renowned in the past for sturdy, traditional, long-lived, dark-coloured red wines – is benefiting from a new wave of independent winemakers who are applying the latest approaches to viticulture and vinification to the complex geology of the Lot valley.

Today, there are many different styles coming out of Cahors, famed as the home of the Malbec grape. They range from bright, fruit-focused, early-drinking wines to those capable of extended ageing.

Rustic tannins and the heavy use of oak have been replaced with a defter touch, and alternative maturation vessels such as amphorae, acacia wood and limestone tanks are now much more in evidence.

Scroll down to see Andy Howard MW’s notes and scores for 12 very special Cahors wines

Cahors’ double-edged sword

Cahors is unusual for a French wine region, given its reliance on a single appellation and wine style (dry red), combined with the dominance of Malbec, known locally as Côt, or Auxerrois or Pessac.

By whichever name, the grape is perhaps Cahors’ greatest strength, yet also a major weakness.

Driven by the popularity of weighty, deep-coloured, fruit-driven wines from Mendoza in Argentina, ‘Brand Malbec’ is now so strong that it’s understandable that many consumers expect the wines of Cahors to be similar in style.

Although a few estates in Cahors have attempted to mimic the Mendoza Malbec style, the complexity of geology, soil types and winemaking philosophies is now resulting in a diversity of exciting, vibrant and good-value wines.

A recent blind tasting (see recommendations, below) revealed that it would be far too simplistic to label a particular estate as ‘traditional’ or ‘modern’.

Many produce a range of wines that display the full breadth of styles that the Côt of Cahors can provide.

A question of terroir

The Cahors region is located on the southwestern edge of the Massif Central, lying to the east of the greater Bordeaux region.

The dominant geological features here are the alluvial terraces of the meandering Lot valley, and the limestone plateau that rises on either side of this river valley.

The evolution of the latter’s many graceful curves has resulted in a variety of soil types.

The first terrace, lying closest to the river, is home to young, fertile soils, often dominated by sand, which promote fruity, early-drinking wines.

The second terrace, composed of shallower soils with pebbles and clay, produces wines with more intensity; while the third terrace combines clay-silica soil with a higher proportion of limestone as elevations increase.

The terraces range from 90m to 250m; above them (up to 350m) lie the vineyards on the limestone plateau (causse).

Here, a greater proportion of Kimmeridgian clay marls results in wines that show freshness and minerality, while pockets of iron-rich clay add power and weight.

Yet the blind tasting also showed that it’s misleading to pigeonhole a wine simply on the basis of soil type.

It’s the complex interplay of the different elements of terroir that generates the wide variety that Cahors offers.

Red sands

Sébastien Bernède (above, vice president of the Cahors wine syndicate, as well as winemaker at the substantial 100ha estate Clos La Coutale) proudly highlights some of his vineyards situated on red sand.

‘These are soils from the Massif Central, just like those of Château Rayas [in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhône],’ he says. ‘Like Rayas, you can make great wines here on sand.’

While Clos La Coutale is a relatively traditional estate, a striking contrast is provided by the youthful figure of Fabien Jouves at Mas del Périé (pictured, below). His estate is located high on the limestone plateau southwest of the town of Cahors.

Jouves is viewed as a champion of natural wines, but even this label is far too simplistic. Mas del Périé produces wines with immediacy and freshness, combined with depth of colour and lingering purity.

One of the lightest wines tasted (Jouves’ Les Acacias; see recommendations) comes from 40-year-old Côt vines on limestone-rich soil interspersed with deposits of iron, and combines power with drinkability, yet is only 11.5% alcohol.

Historical presence

Cahors has been a significant wine-producing region since the Middle Ages, often commanding a higher reputation for its wines than those of Bordeaux.

Deep in colour, the wines were revered in the UK, as well as by Pope John XXII – a native of the Lot.

Subsequently, Cahors became associated with the name ‘black wine’ – a reference to a time when grapes were baked in ovens for concentration, before being blended to bolster paler, lighter wines.

The region prospered for several centuries before increasing commercial pressure from Bordeaux merchants and cheaper wines from the Midi region compromised the wine trade.

In the late 19th century, phylloxera ravaged the region, a calamity from which it didn’t recover for 100 years.

What could have been the final straw came with the great frost of February 1956, which almost completely destroyed what was left of the vines. In the subsequent replanting, Côt’s dominance increased.

Following the granting of AP status in 1971, Cahors maintained its reputation for structured, sturdy, long-lived red wines that spend considerable time in oak and require lengthy bottle ageing.

Under the AP rules, wines must be made from at least 70% Côt; Merlot and Tannat are also permitted, the latter adding further concentration.

Today, most of the top wines are 100% Côt, still with plenty of depth of colour, a violet-driven perfume and flavours of blackberry and cherry.

The change-bringers

Initially driven by inspirational producers such as Jean-Luc Baldès of Clos Triguedina, as well as significant investment from outsiders such as Alain-Dominique Perrin (Château Lagrézette), the quality of Cahors has been on a steep upward curve for several decades.

This process has been accelerated with the arrival of a new wave of winemakers. Benoît Aymard (pictured, above) is a typical example.

Since taking over as the third generation at the 14ha Domaine Clos d’Audhuy in 2014 he has transformed the estate’s approach in terms of viticulture, winemaking and marketing. In 2018, a new gravity-fed winery was installed.

Aymard says: ‘The old Côt clones were high-yielding and lower in quality. Since 2015, we’ve planted six new clones with more open bunches, small berries, lower yields and higher quality.’

His focus is on individual parcel vinification, the estate’s varied terroir and low intervention.

Clos d’Audhuy’s La-O (see recommendations) stands out, with its intense, linear palate demonstrating the high limestone content of this vineyard. Cuvée Clos d’Audhuy displays a more traditional approach, with two years maturation in barrel.

Meanwhile, On a Pris le Temps combines the best parcels from both, producing a rich yet serious Côt on a par with the region’s best.

Cahors at a glance

Planted area: 3,323ha (2020, Vins de Cahors)

Producers: 220 independent winegrowers, one cooperative

Classification: Became an AP in 1971

Restrictions: Only red wine permitted; minimum 70% Côt (aka Auxerrois/ Pessac/Malbec), with up to 30% Merlot/Tannat; maximum yield 50hl/ha

Average annual rainfall: About 750mm

Newer arrivals

At Château Famaey and Château les Croisille, a younger generation is in charge, albeit with fewer traditional winemaking links to the Cahors region.

In 2007, Belgian Maarten Luyckx (pictured, below) took over from his father Luc at Château Famaey in Puy l’Evêque, where he creates a range of styles.

‘We are focused on sustainability – respect for the vines and nature is at the core of what we do,’ says Luyckx.

Famaey’s Cuvée F is aged in ovoid vats, allowing further micro-oxygenation to promote fruit characters. Cuvée X – a 2023 DWWA Platinum medal winner with its 2022 vintage, produced from the same plots – spends two years in new oak barrels.

Le Grez is aged in clay amphorae to emphasise the imprint of the clay-rich vineyards.

From plots on the pebbly second terrace, L’Impression is unoaked – it’s aged for 12 months in concrete vats ‘to emphasise fruit and silkiness’, says Luyckx.

Château les Croisille is located north of the Lot, on the causse. The Croisille family started as grape-growers in 1979 before creating an estate that produces its own wines.

Brothers Germain and Simon are now pushing the estate to greater heights.

Cuvée Silice (from silica-rich clay-iron soils, see recommendations) is aged in concrete, which contrasts with Calcaire, which is aged in foudres for 15 months.

Divin is a blend from the best plots of the estate’s sand, clay and limestone soils, and Le Grain is a micro-cuvée aged in demi-muids for two years.

Both are complex, ageworthy Côts that would more than hold their own against the best of Argentina’s Malbecs.

Modern outlook

The iconic Clos Triguedina estate – which lays claim to being the first to produce an AP Cahors from 100% Malbec – continues to be a standard bearer.

In 2023, Jean-Luc and Sabine Baldès passed the baton to their daughter Juliette (pictured, below) after she trained in New Zealand, Spain, Argentina and Italy.

She’s focused on a better understanding of Triguedina’s complex geology, soil types and the influence of elevation, while continuing the estate’s drive to respect both nature and tradition.

Triguedina’s top wine is Probus (see recommendations), paying homage to the eponymous Roman Emperor who replanted vines in the Quercy region during the 3rd century.

Produced from 100-year-old vines on the third terraces, this is a selection from the best parcels and continues to set a benchmark for AP Cahors.

Intriguingly, within a red wine-only appellation, Triguedina is making an elegant white wine (labelled under IGP Comté Tolosan) from Viognier and Chardonnay planted on the highest terraces.

There’s also a fine rosé (aged in acacia barrels), while its New Black Wine is a clever reference to the wines produced several centuries ago, using a disused prune oven to gently heat and dry some of the grapes, yet delivering a much more sophisticated wine than its historical counterpart.

The wines of Cahors are certainly changing.

A new generation is at play, producing the full gamut of wines, from fruit-driven to structured. New oak is being toned down with increased use of larger oak casks, amphorae and alternative maturation vessels.

Combine all this with the complex geology of the Lot valley, together with many keenly priced wines, and Cahors looks to be a very exciting source of fine Côt/Malbec wines.

If you want to better understand the terroirs and topography of Cahors, there’s an excellent video on the Vins de Cahors website

Cahors to the fore: Howard’s pick of 12 to try

Related articles

• The wines of Southwest France: a buyer’s guide
• France newsletter: Sign up today
• The star producers from Sancerre and the Centre-Loire you need to know about

Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Related articles

• Chile’s wild south: Leo Erazo profile
• Carmenère marks 30 years in Chile
• Winemaker to watch: Juan Pablo Murgia

Argentina’s winemaking story is one of reinvention, passion and extraordinary diversity. While Malbec remains its global flagship, Argentina’s varied terroirs, high-elevation vineyards and innovative producers offer wines that push the boundaries of excellence.

Cabernet Franc, once an understated variety, now commands the spotlight in Argentina’s higher regions. The expressive aromas and poised structure of Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 top-50 Best in Show winner Altaluvia, below, exemplify the variety’s potential to redefine elegance. ‘Argentina is showing this grape like no other country does,’ says renowned sommelier and DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina, Paz Levinson.

Reds such as Bemberg’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Domaine Bousquet’s Organic Cabernet Sauvignon further highlight Argentina’s ability to craft world-class alternatives to Malbec.

Scroll down to discover DWWA 2024 awarded wines from Argentina

Argentina’s whites are equally compelling. Torrontés, with its heady floral aromas, continues to intrigue, while Chardonnay from elevated regions such as Gualtallary delivers balanced minerality.

Bemberg’s Platinum-winning El Tomillo Chardonnay 2021 is a mouthwatering example. Characteristic styles complete Argentina’s repertoire. Bonarda offers juicy charm, as seen in Colomé’s Lote Especial Bonarda 2023, while Patagonia’s cool-climate blends, such as Otronia’s Corte de Blancas 2021, add a fresh dimension.

‘Argentina is a land of diversity,’ Levinson concludes. Whether exploring Cabernet Franc, Bonarda or high-elevation Chardonnay, Argentina’s wines promise an adventure into terroir, creativity and boundless potential.

Discover DWWA-rated favourites beyond Malbec below, with more to be discovered at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Altaluvia, Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2019

Best in Show, 97 points

£30.95 The Vine Whisperer

This is the third Argentinian Cabernet Franc to win a DWWA Best in Show award, underscoring how well suited this variety can be for high-elevation Andean viticulture. It’s dark and warmly scented with loganberry and plum. Balanced and poised, with the fruit deft and singing – very much a tenor rather than a bass. More soft loganberry dominates the palate, with both tannins and acids in supportive rather than dominant roles. Alcohol 14.9%

Whites

Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No1 El Tomillo Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Platinum, 97 points

POA £ Top Selection

Striking Gualtallary character of luminous pear, apple and lime fruit cascading over a flinty, wet-stone mineral core. Alert and intense with a fine bead of succulent acidity and a very long, stylish finish. Alc 13.5%

Alta-Yarí, Gran Torrontés, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Gold, 95 points

bodegaaltayari.com

Oozing glorious tropical fruit and pomelo citrus with an undertow of honeyed florals that persist and entwine around the bustling acidity and creamy texture. Energetic and long. Alc 13.5%

Altaluvia, Riesling, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Gold, 95 points

£30.95 The Vine Whisperer

A delightful wealth of lime curd, blossom and honeyed white fruit bathed in a cleansing mineral freshness which steers toward a sizzling sea salt finish. Alc 13.3%

Otronia, 45 Rugientes Corte de Blancas, Sarmiento, Chubut, Patagonia 2021

Gold, 95 points

£32.99 92 or More, Liberty Wines

An exciting blend showing a breathtaking array of white blossom, ginger and white pepper with an enticing oiliness tempered by the pulsating acidity. Youthful and joyous. Alc 13%

Trapiche, Terroir Series Finca El Tomillo Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2022

Silver, 94 points

POA £ Enotria&Coe

Lovely lavender on the nose, some baking spices and appealing oak over generous pineapple and lime aromas. Round and fresh. Alc 14%

Reds

Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No19 Las Mercedes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cafayate, Salta 2019

Platinum, 97 points

POA £ Top Selection

Sultry tones of pencil shaving, liquorice and crushed black pepper are engulfed by rapturous strawberry, blueberry and blackcurrant swirling across the plush tannins, fine acidity and silky texture. Softly evolved and remarkable. Alc 14%

Etchart, Single Vineyard Petit Verdot, Cafayate, Salta 2023

Gold, 96 points

bodegasetchart.com

Earthy, peppery notes enhanced by mesmerising ripe red fruits alongside appetising acidity and polished tannins, providing a unique fluidity and depth. Long and sustained. Alc 14%

Domaine Bousquet, Ameri Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Gold, 95 points

POA £ Vintage Roots

Dense, tightly packed with quintessential blackcurrant, cherry and plum atop a lavish spectrum of smoky oak and tingling espresso. Fleshy and vivacious with sleek tannins. Alc 14.5%

Trivento, Golden Reserve Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022

Gold, 95 points

£16 Concha y Toro UK

Varietal typicity with wonderful high-elevation concentration. Expressive lavender and thyme aromatics meld with red fruits and the granular tannic core keeps things fresh. Alc 14.5%

Finca Sophenia, Altosur Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Silver, 94 points

£13.50-£13.99 Highbury Vintners, JN Wine, The Vintage Wine Merchants Antrim

Herbal nose with notes of blue fruit, forest floor, black tea leaves and black pepper. Muscular on the palate with tense tannins. Alc 14%

Luigi Bosca, De Sangre Red Blend, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2022

Silver, 94 points

luigibosca.com

Elegant and expressive with aromas of spices and tobacco leaves, full of ripe fruit. Very friendly structure, long and rich. Alc 14.3%

Colomé, Lote Especial Bonarda, Calchaquíes, Salta 2023

Silver, 93 points

£24.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Liberty Wines, NY Wines, Shelved Wine

Generous jammy fruit nuances on the nose, concentrated. Appealing, fine tannins, with fresh acidity supporting the fruit. Alc 14.5%

Kaiken, Obertura Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021

Silver, 93 points

£34.99 (2020) Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Dé Wine Co, Liberty Wines, North & South, Simpy Wines Direct, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm, Winedirect

Herbaceous nuances on the nose with well judged spicy oak and tobacco notes. Peppery and broad palate, with a long finish. Alc 14.5%

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

Related articles

• Criolla Chica granted quality status in Argentina
• Argentina harvest 2024: Another unusual year, but excellent quality
• Rhône inspiration: South Australia’s take on bold reds

The stellar reputation of South America’s premium red wines has been built on the region’s iconic varietal wines: Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, and Uruguayan Tannat.

Yet these wines are a relatively recent phenomenon, only really gathering pace in the 1980s when South American wineries – their sights set on export – joined the wave of varietally labelled wines emerging from the New World.

Prior to this shift in focus, South American winemakers had been more interested in producing European-style blends – and Bordeaux blends in particular. This was a reflection of the early French and other European influences on the local wine industry.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 premium South American red blends

Blending traditions

The first South American vineyards were planted by Spanish settlers and missionaries in the 1500s, but it was the wave of European immigration in the late 1800s and early 1900s that had the most significant impact on the development of the modern South American wine industry.

Many wineries were founded or advised by French vignerons, and mass immigration from wine-producing regions of Spain, Italy and France in particular ensured that European varieties and sensibilities took hold. European blends found a new home in South America.

Varietal Malbec, Cabernet, Carmenère and Tannat moved into starring roles on the world stage in the decades following the 1980s surge, and since then top winemakers have continued to evolve their premium blends behind the scenes.

The best Bordeaux-style blends are far from mere imitations of Bordeaux. South America’s winemakers are creative, blending in the local heroes Malbec, Carmenère and Tannat.

Other European varieties such as Syrah and Cabernet Franc are also adding refinement, with winemakers seeking to balance tradition and innovation.

Meanwhile, the emergence of new geographical indications (or GIs – delimited areas indicating the origin of a wine, which may be stated on labels), such as the sub-regional GIs of the high-elevation Uco Valley, is encouraging experimentation with new grape varieties, such as Rhône-style blends based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

The character of local terroirs and individual vintages is being given increasing weight, too; good vintages such as 2018, 2019 and 2021 have seen quality elevated to new heights.

Greater finesse

The line-up of premium South American red blends from which I made this selection included some truly world-class wines. Perhaps the most revealing aspect of the tasting was an evident stylistic shift towards greater finesse – these will always be wines of body and opulence, but they are increasingly elegant and vibrant, too.

And although these are wines built to last another decade – or longer – in the cellar, you’ll find that many are drinking beautifully already.

It’s no surprise that many of these wines are earning recognition in prestigious markets, including La Place de Bordeaux (since the 17th century used as a central distribution network for Bordeaux wines, but which in recent years has developed into a platform to sell elite wines from around the world).

Cheval des Andes became the first Argentinian wine to be sold through La Place in 2003.

Premium red blends have played the role of understudy in South America for decades, but they are steadily now moving into the spotlight – it’s time to take a fresh look.

Notes and scores for 18 top South American red blends

Related articles

• Chile’s new wave white wines
• Great Cabernets of South America
• South America’s new flying winemakers plus 12 wines to try

For meat lovers, an evening with a succulent, juicy steak and a delicious bottle of wine is one of life’s great pleasures. The big meaty flavours of a steak demand an equally big wine with plenty of tannins – and the good news is there are several red grapes and wine styles that fit the bill.

As with any food pairing, it’s also useful to consider the other ingredients on your plate. Are you serving steak with chips or a salad? What sauce is on the side? Read on to discover go-to wine styles for steak, tips on pairing with particular cuts of meat and other things to consider if you’re preparing a special steak dinner.

Malbec and steak: a match made in heaven

There are several classic wine pairings for steak and top of the list is the Malbec grape. With their lush dark fruit and naturally high tannins, Malbec wines and blends are a safe choice if you’re unsure what to buy.

Two main regions should be on your radar. First is Argentina, the New World country that has become synonymous with quality Malbec at all price points. The region of Mendoza has more Malbec planted than anywhere else in the world. It’s home to 76% of Argentina’s vineyards and Malbec plantings here account for one-fifth of the total Malbec in the country. So look out for the name on wine labels.

Since Argentina is also famous for the production of high-quality beef, it’s no surprise that steak and Malbec have found a perfect partnership here. The classic style of Argentinian Malbec is an oaked wine packed with layers of dark fruit and spice. But it’s also worth considering fresher styles.

‘I tend to choose a “new wave” Malbec, one with less oak, fresher fruit and better acidity,’ says South American wine expert Patricio Tapia, editor of the annual Guida Descorchados. ‘Especially ones coming from places like Altamira and Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, towards the Andes Mountains.’ he added. ‘Always keep in mind that the main task for a glass of wine is to refresh the food.’

The other region to seek out for top Malbec is the grape’s French homeland of Cahors. Although this region in southwest France doesn’t produce as much Malbec as Argentina, it can be a good source of value bottles, with styles ranging from the traditional gutsy and full-bodied to light and fruity.

Cabernet Sauvignon: a classic choice

Another great option if you’re looking to pour a full-bodied red wine, is Cabernet Sauvignon. A winning combination of dark fruits, tannin and naturally high acidity makes Cabernet and Cabernet-dominant blends a successful partner for steak.

The most classic of Cabernet regions is Bordeaux, whose red wines are also known as claret. More Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on the Left Bank, so these wines will be richer in style. Right Bank Bordeaux is Merlot-dominant so the wines will be more supple. But both varieties are planted throughout Bordeaux so claret is usually a blend of the two.

France isn’t the only source of Cabernet Sauvignon however. This adaptable grape is successfully grown all over the world from Australia and China to South Africa and California. ‘A powerful California Cabernet Sauvignonwith a grilled steak is pretty hard to beat,’ says US wine expert Karen MacNeil in her 10 rules to food and wine pairing.

Syrah to Pinotage: more red options

‘I’d urge people to look beyond the traditional matches of Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon with steak,’ says wine writer and DWWA judge Peter Richards MW. ‘The risk with steak is to think big meaty flavours equals big wine,’ he adds.

‘How about a nice lively Cabernet Franc? Or may even a Carignan, Cinsault or cool-climate Syrah? Even a full-bodied but elegant rosé can work well on a warm day,’ says Richards.

With its spicy black pepper notes, Syrah – also known as Shiraz – is a particularly good match for the smoky flavours of steak cooked on a barbecue. Generous Australian Shiraz is a reliably good pairing. While classic examples from the Rhône Valley in France will often have a delicious savoury smoky bacon note too.

South Africa is also a source of great Syrah/Shiraz for steak – look out for examples from Swartland. While smoky South African Pinotage is another natural fit for flame-grilled steaks.

If you’re keen to experiment, there’s a long list of native grapes from countries around the world that would suit steak. Portugal’s gutsy Douro Valley reds are usually field blends of local varieties such as Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Or how about Sangiovese from Italy?

Four classic red grapes for steak

• Malbec
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Syrah / Shiraz
• Pinotage

Does Pinot Noir go with steak? 

Most Pinot Noir wines tend to sit at the light- to medium-bodied end of the flavour spectrum. So its profile is often therefore paired-up with lighter meats sand white meat. Yet Pinot Noir’s natural acidity and bright, red berry fruit can work with your steak dinner, depending on the style and the cut.

In general, think about trying Pinots with leaner cuts of beef, such as fillet, which are cooked rare to medium-rare. Steak tartare will go nicely with a Pinot Noir for example.

Ribeye or fillet steak?

‘The easiest way to pair wine with beef is to think about matching the flavour intensity of your wine with your beef,’ says Mark Quick, wine director for the Hawksmoor group of steakhouse restaurants, in this in-depth article about pairing wine with beef.

Consider the fat content in your meat, for example. ‘More fat equals more intense beefy flavour,’ says Quick.

Food-and-wine-pairing expert and Decanter contributing editor, Fiona Beckett agrees. She recommends pairing a ribeye steak with its relatively high fat content with a Syrah-based Côte-Rôtie from the Northern Rhône or a SuperTuscan Italian red – ‘both generous, ripe and full-bodied’.

Meanwhile she recommends riper, more fruit-driven styles of red for steak cooked well-done.

What sauce? 

Serving a sauce with any meat will influence the wine pairing. Common choices for steak include béarnaise, peppercorn sauce, spicy South American chimichurri, mushroom sauce or mustard.

‘Sauces and sides will also be just as important when it comes to the choice of wine,’says Richards. ‘Creamy sauces like béarnaise can go well with an oakier wine. Syrah can work well with peppercorns.’

‘For peppercorn sauce, as it’s so rich I would suggest a plummy and fruity Malbec, a Bordeaux, a reserva Rioja or a nice medium- to full-bodied Douro red,’ adds Alberto Almeida, head sommelier at Lainston House. ‘With béarnaise, maybe something with a bit more acidity and tannin, such as a Brunello di Montalcino made with the Sangiovese grape.’

Lorenzo Tili, head sommelier at The Goring agrees. ‘Bérnaise sauce requires a red wine with pronounced flavour intensity, full body, good tannins and enough acidity to cut through the sweet meat and creaminess given from the sauce. Sangiovese will always deliver very well. He suggests Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from Tuscany, or Torgiano Rosso Riserva from Umbria.

‘With spicy sauces like chimichurri, we want to pair a smooth red with round tannins. But pay attention at the abv,’ warns Tili. ‘If the alcohol is too high, it will increase the spicy sensation of the food on the palate – in particular with red hot chilli – and the result won’t be pleasant!’

White wine with steak?

If you aren’t a fan of red wines, can you pair steak with white wines or rosés? The answer is yes, as long as you go for fuller-bodied examples. Think oaked Chardonnay or Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a characterful Italian rosé made from Montepulciano, with cherry and savoury flavours.

Discovery is, after all, one of the most exciting things about the wine world. Experienced sommelier Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London, suggests mature white Rioja in his article about pairing white wine with red meat.

‘To pair with steak, I would go for a deep rosé, made with Malbec, Shiraz or Merlot grapes,’ says Almeida. ‘The dark colour shows more contact with the skins, so we’ll have a more robust and tannic wine to help the protein of the steak.’

‘Look for a wine characterised by full body and good structure,’ agrees Tili. ‘A blend from the Southern Rhône appellation of Tavel (mainly Grenache and Cinsault with other local varieties) would certainly be one of the best options. Alternatively a rosé made from Aglianico and Sagrantino grapes, which are very rich in polyphenols, from Central and Southern Italy would also perform very well.’

If you’re still undecided on which wine to choose, here are some recommendations from the Decanter team, to suit every pocket and occasion – from special celebrations to budget mid-week suppers.

Best wines for steak: 12 to try

Related articles

Premium Argentinian Malbec: Panel tasting results

Value Argentinian Malbec: panel tasting results

See all food and wine pairing articles

Amanda Barnes, Madeleine Stenwreth MW and Dirceu Vianna Junior MW tasted 136 wines with 8 Outstanding and 74 Highly recommended.

Premium Argentinian Malbec: Panel tasting scores

136 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 74

Recommended 44

Commended 2

Fair 8

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release wines labelled as single-varietal Malbec, in which Malbec represents at least 85% of the blend, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$18

You would be surprised at how exciting it can be to taste nearly 140 Malbecs back-to-back. Far from any monotony, there was a compelling diversity of wine styles, regions and expressions in this panel tasting. Proving that premium Malbec remains at the forefront of the evolving face of Argentine wine, the tasting highlighted not only an ever-greater focus on terroir – particularly in the sub-regions of Mendoza’s Uco Valley – but also a quest for freshness and elegance.

‘The best examples displayed excellent varietal definition and a real sense of place,’ commented Dirceu Vianna Junior MW. ‘It is wonderful to see great premium Malbec emerging from all corners of the country, with especially high quality coming out of Mendoza’s Uco Valley and more specifically [Paraje] Altamira.’

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting

Distinctive regional expressions ranged from the powerful, dark-fruited and mineral examples from San Juan’s Pedernal Valley to the supple yet heady ripe fruits and roasted herb aromas of the Calchaquí Valleys in northern Argentina. Within Mendoza, there was also notable differences between the Uco Valley’s more floral expressions, filled with violets and fresh red fruit, and the inkier, richer wines of Maipú and the structured but bright wines of Luján de Cuyo.

While the Uco Valley dominated the tasting in terms of the number of entries, Madeleine Stenwreth MW was particularly excited by the wines from further afield: ‘There are traditional areas that can make beautiful wines even if they don’t always match the profile of what people expect from Uco… They might be different, but when they are at their best, they are absolutely gorgeous.’

A more restrained approach in the cellar, with less oak influence and fresher fruit expression, allowed the difference in these terroirs to come to the fore. As a panel, we collectively felt that the riper, oakier styles of wine – which were often the most expensive, too – overshadowed regional identity.

See all the wines from the Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting

‘A lot of the wines that are aiming for the higher-end price point are working the wine too hard – with heavy extractions and a lot of oak. You sort of expect that – but it’s boring,’ reflected Stenwreth. ‘Those that do it well hold back on extraction and oak, and allow the place to shine through.’

There were notable stylistic differences, too, from more perfumed and light-bodied expressions to richer, fruit-driven iterations. The differences in style often split us as a panel, eliciting some heated debate! However, what we all agreed on was that this heterogeneity is to be celebrated as it reflects the increasing diversity that wine lovers can expect from Malbec. Today, there’s undoubtedly an expression of Malbec for everyone.

A common thread running through all the wines, on the other hand, was the great drinkability of Malbec – especially in the most recent vintages (2019, 2020, 2021, 2022). ‘A unifying quality that premium Malbec possesses is drinkability,’ concurred Vianna. ‘The vast majority of the wines we tasted were juicy, smooth and easy to enjoy. This is why consumers rightly love Malbec.’

Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes is a writer and presenter specialising in South American travel and wine. A DWWA judge, she is author of the awardwinning South America Wine Guide (£35 www.southamericawineguide.com)

Madeleine Stenwreth MW is an international wine consultant based in Sweden. Prior to setting up her consultancy in 2010, she was quality & product development manager for a leading wine importer in the Nordic market, having also been wine buyer for South Africa and South America at Swedish alcohol monopoly Systembolaget

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant and educator. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors. After becoming a Master of Wine in 2008, he co-authored the awarded book Conheça Vinhos (‘Understanding Wine’, in Portuguese)

Related articles

• Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting results
• Australia, New Zealand & South Africa Pinot Noir: Panel tasting results
• Washington GSM: Panel tasting results

Following record low yields for the 2023 harvest, there were high hopes for a stable 2024 vintage in Argentina – but nature had other plans. Erratic weather resulted in one of the most unpredictable seasons in recent memory.

The Zonda wind – the hot, dry gale that swoops down from the Andes – took an usual turn from September. Pablo Richardi, winemaker at Flechas de los Andes explains that ‘it wasn’t so much the intensity of the Zonda as its persistence. We had three days of wind when the vines were already vulnerable, with tender buds and leaves. The wind reduced the canopy and dried out plant tissues, making them less productive’.

The weather was cool and dry until mid-January when a heat wave saw temperatures hit 40 degrees, hastening ripening in vineyards all around the country. In some places the heat was so intense that vines shut down.

Low yields, but not as low as 2023

Vines were already fragile going into this tricky season, courtesy of the late spring frosts in the preceding vintage. ‘The 2024 harvest produced more fruit than last year, but it was still 15% below average,’ said Germán Di Césare, chief winemaker at Bodega Trivento.

A cool, dry spring in Mendoza and the rest of Cuyo saw significant snowfall accumulate in the Andes mountains. The subsequent snowmelt swelled rivers to a degree not seen in many years. This is significant in Argentina, where the majority of vineyards rely on irrigation.

Perfect balance

Alejandro Vigil, President of Wines of Argentina and the winemaking director at Catena Zapata, said, ‘The 2024 harvest was quite unusual. Although it was hot overall, we experienced “high lows” rather than extremely “high highs”. As a result, sugars that concentrated during the day were consumed overnight, with acidity retained, providing perfect balance. This vintage is extremely encouraging. The incredible whites and reds from high, cool areas remind me a lot of the extraordinary 2021 vintage.’

‘The incredible whites and reds from high, cool areas remind me a lot of the extraordinary 2021 vintage.’

Mendoza

Di Césare reported, ‘The vineyards all across Mendoza are remarkably healthy. Uco Valley sub-regions had their differences, depending on the impact of the preceding season’s frosts and how the vines bounced back. Overall, we saw low yields but excellent concentration among the reds.’

Pablo Durigutti, winemaker at Durigutti Family Winemakers, added, ‘Micro-frosts reduced yields in Las Compuertas in Luján de Cuyo, but we achieved good concentration and typicity in the Malbec. Cool, rainy days were good for ripening. We are seeing silky tannins and well-defined fruit.’

Richardi said, ‘After the January heatwave we expected an early harvest, but actually we were able to wait for just the right time. The first samples are showing moderate levels of alcohol and gentle, rounded, mellow tannins. Lower yields often mean better quality and I think this will be an excellent year, with easygoing, well-rounded wines.’

San Juan

‘In the Pedernal Valley in San Juan, a cold, dry winter was followed by the wind, impacting yields – but not quality. Both whites and reds, especially Malbec, look promising’, said Paula González, winemaker at Pyros Wines.

High-altitude vineyards

In the Calchaquí Valleys, ‘the changing climate and Zonda reduced yields by about 30%’, reported Alejandro Pepa, oenologist at El Esteco.

Thibaut Delmotte, winemaker at Bodega Colomé, said: ‘Early ripening produced fresh, healthy fruit for white wines and the February and March rains ensured balanced ripening for the reds, promising excellent quality and fantastic aromas.’

Patagonia

Down south in Patagonia, Hans Vinding-Diers, owner of Bodega Noemía, said: ‘The rainy winter and windy spring in Río Negro gave way to a roasting January but the harvest went smoothly. The Pinot Noirs in particular are showing surprising elegance and the Malbec and Cabernets appear to have developed perfectly.’

Juliana del Águila, from Bodega del Fin del Mundo in Neuquén, added, ‘the mild winter followed by a cool summer resulted in really healthy fruit. Yields were lower but we are seeing concentrated aromas, colours and flavours, with moderate to low alcohol. The standouts are the Semillón, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec and Syrah.’

The 2024 harvest in Argentina was once again extremely challenging. While quantities may be lower than hoped for, quality looks to be extremely high for both white and red wines.

Related articles

Looking back over my tasting highlights of 2023, what really stands out is the growing mastery of South America’s winemakers with the goldilocks varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Limarí and Gualtallary are – in my opinion at least – bonafide ‘grands crus’ for these varieties. However Aconcagua Costa and Malleco are increasingly prevalent too. Tabalí, Reta, Catena Zapata, Errázuriz and Vinos Baettig are notable disciples.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2023

That being said, it was actually the rather more unusual locations that really caught my eye this year.

One of the best Chardonnays I tasted in 2023 came unexpectedly from a boutique producer in Brazil’s emerging Serra do Sudeste region. To the other extreme, deep in Argentinian Patagonia, the world’s southernmost commercial winery, Otronia, has been producing excellent Chardonnay since its first vintage, but it is the new 2021 vintage of Pinot Noir that I found to be a great surprise.

From Chile, I have thoroughly enjoyed drinking Rafael Tirado’s Pinot Noir, which offers excellent value for money and still begs the question as to why he is the lone producer in Maule’s Andes mountains. Another, which is not available outside of Chile yet, is JP Martin’s brilliant Pinot Noir from Huasco… made in the Atacama Desert no less!

Malbec shines

The other variety that has really shone this year is, perhaps less surprisingly, Malbec. I particularly enjoyed the distinctive expressions coming from old vines in Maule, with the wines of Reta and Miguel Torres’ Los Inquietos, as well as the tippy top altitude expressions of Humahuaca in northern Argentina with Cielo Arriba. We have also seen some real leaps in quality in the Uco Valley, which continues to drive forward Argentina’s top wines.

The long-awaited debut release from Altos Las Hormigas’ Jardin Altamira vineyard is one of the best wines I have tasted this year. It can sit proudly alongside the other noble Malbecs coming from Zuccardi, El Enemigo, Catena Zapata and PerSe. These wines reflect Argentina embracing a more Burgundian ethos, while also bravely showing their own distinct personality.

Old vine stars

Other varieties that are rightfully gaining more recognition are the humble, old-vine wines made from Cinsault, País and the Criolla varieties. The beautiful old vines and authentic wines from Chile’s Itata, Bio Bio and Maule Valleys continue to excite me, with producers such as Leo Erazo, Bouchon and Garage Wine Co leading the charge.

Meanwhile the Criolla revolution happening in eastern and northern Mendoza is giving new value to the under-appreciated old vines in the region. Radical bottles from La Cayetana, Lucas Niven, Mariana Onofri and Matias Morcos have kept my glass more than half full this year.

Coastal bottles

There is also a growing confidence and skill among winemakers for making refreshing but also profound maritime wines. Albariño continues to firmly put Uruguay on the vinous map and producers including Familia Deicas, Bouza, Garzón, Cerro del Toro and the edgy new project of Michelini i Mufatto are some of my favourites to look out for.

Meanwhile in Chile, the underdog variety of Syrah is really finding its feet in the coastal regions of San Antonio, Casablanca and Limari. The excellent top wine from Matetic proves how good these wines become with time, if you are patient enough to wait…

Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2023

Related content

South American old-vine reds: Panel tasting results

South American Pinot Noir: 20 to try

South American ageworthy wines: 12 recommendations

There are said to be about 880 bodegas in Mendoza, ensuring that Argentina’s elevated western province has long been a destination of choice for wine lovers. Vineyards here range from about 430m to 2,000m altitude, and while Malbec rules the roost, an ever-growing cast of varieties such as Semillon, Pinot Noir and the Criolla grapes (principally Torrontés, Criolla Chica, Criolla Grande and Cereza) means there’s plenty for wine-curious travellers to savour beyond the headline-act red.

Whether it’s horseback riding over the Andes or matching chocolate with wine, 300 days of sun and exciting wine-related activities keep visitors returning to key wine regions Maipú, Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley. Late summer (early March) welcomes the arrival of the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia grape harvest festival, while in winter (peak season July to September) powder lovers can hit Las Leñas’ slopes, and après-ski on Malbec.

Mendoza: The facts

According to Wines of Argentina’s 2021 annual report, Mendoza produced 76% of all Argentinian wine across its 146,815ha, cultivating some 39,250ha of Malbec (20% of the national total). The other most widespread varieties included Bonarda (about 14,800ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (10,500ha) and the Criollas (12,500ha combined, mostly Criolla Grande).

Languid paired tasting menus have long tempted foodies, but Mendoza’s dining scene has rocketed over the past few years to claim the title of Argentina’s most diverse food region (after capital Buenos Aires). Celebrity chef Francis Mallmann (@francismallmann) has long been associated with Mendoza, his open-fire techniques creating a show of their own. While the asado (barbecue) experience is guaranteed t0 please, a new wave of chefs is captivating palates putting wine first and showcasing star local products such as heirloom tomatoes and Andean native potatoes; veggie-led menus are finally in fashion.

A slew of restaurants has opened – and not just in bodegas. The glorious Andes range lends itself to outdoor dining experiences at restaurants such as Cundo (@cundoaltamira) and Ruda (@ruda.cocina) in Uco Valley, and Chirivia (@_chirivia) in Potrerillos. But 2023’s most anticipated launch was Angélica – Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata.

There’s more good news given that this surge in dining spots is being matched by hospitality. Recent openings include acclaimed winemaker Susana Balbo’s SB Winemaker’s House & Spa Suites in Chacras de Coria and La Morada in the Uco Valley; these offer comfy accommodation to suit all budgets.

One of the global Great Wine Capitals network and the host in October 2022 of the World’s Best Vineyards awards, Mendoza should be high on your list of must-visit wine destinations. With the five-day guide that follows, travellers can visit both traditional and contemporary bodegas while soaking up the ultimate in wine lifestyle…

Day 1: Maipú

To the south of central Mendoza city, the eastern department of Maipú is where European varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec began to be cultivated in the mid-19th century, spurred on by a surge in immigration, particularly from Italy from the 1880s onwards: Maipú and Luján de Cuyo together are known as the Primera Zona (‘first zone’). While it’s usually considered that Mendoza produces mountain wines, Maipú is its lowest-elevated district, topping out at a relatively rather lowly 700m-940m above sea level.

While Maipú is often overlooked for being distant from downtown Mendoza, its quiet country roads lined with peach orchards, olive groves and vineyards are a breath of fresh air. Open farmlands mean wineries aren’t rubbing elbows; it can take half an hour to drive between them, so hire a car (Mendoza’s signage has come on significantly in the past three years), or even a driver, as taxis can be scarce. If you’re staying in Mendoza city, you can hop on the Metrotranvía tram; alight at Gutiérrez station – just across the road is the well-located Wine and Ride, where you can hire bikes and staff will help to plan a tour of local vineyards and wineries to suit your agenda. Another alternative is the hop-on, hop-off Bus Vitivinícola, which offers half and full-day options.

Among its cluster of at least century-old bodegas, just a handful in Mendoza still use foudres of 40,000 litres or more – close to the tram station, Bodegas López, founded in 1898, is one of them. Fourth-generation winemaking director Carlos López and his brother Eduardo, general manager, respect tradition by continuing to create cask-aged Bordeaux-style reds, while driving forward with a line of daily drinkers including Sauvignon Blanc.

A top seller is Montchenot, a range of old-vine blends dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with bottlings cask-aged for five, 10, 15, 20 years or more. A free guided visit makes for a fascinating history lesson, while other tour and tasting packages are available, from about £5-£50; for an additional class, visit the Museo del Vino y la Vendimia museum a short distance away along Calle Ozamis. Other top Maipú tastings include Bodega Trapiche, housed in its impressive 1912 Florentine-style building along Calle Nueva Mayorga, while Luigi Bosca, further out along Ruta 60, recently converted its centenarian Finca El Paraíso property into a restaurant, headed by chef Pablo del Río. Mil Suelos (@milsuelos) is also due to open a parrilla experience – cooking large cuts of meat on a metal grate over an open wood fire – later this year.

Santa Julia’s story is more contemporary but no less legendary. When José Zuccardi developed a new irrigation system, he began cultivating vineyards in eastern Maipú district Santa Rosa in 1963 to showcase it. Taking up the baton from his father, José Alberto began to cultivate high-quality grape varieties such as Tempranillo in 1982, naming that project after his daughter.

Today, Julia Zuccardi is responsible for tourism and hospitality, while her brother Sebastián is winemaking director at the certified organic winery. Aesthetes will enjoy browsing works by Mendoza-based artists, while the more active can tour the estate by bike. It counts two restaurants: enjoy a picnic or a full-blown asado experience at Casa del Visitante; its empanadas (filled pastry pockets) were named Argentina’s best in 2018. Meanwhile, Pan y Oliva uses extra virgin olive oil in every dish, the ideal vehicle to showcase Zuelo, youngest sibling Miguel’s line of liquid gold.

Where to eat

Choose from one of nine El Enemigo pairings to accompany a three-course lunch or dinner at Casa Vigil close to the Mendoza river near El Paraíso.

Where to stay

Well-appointed suites and log fires await at Hotel Club Tapiz, a delightful former governor’s home built in 1890.

Day 2: Luján de Cuyo

The western side of Primera Zona, Luján de Cuyo lends its name to one of two denominación de origen controlada (DOC) zones in Mendoza, while harbouring sub-districts including the Geographical Indications (GI) Agrelo, Las Compuertas and Vistalba. Its central hub is Chacras de Coria, former vineyards and farms gobbled up by private housing estates.

Regardless, Luján is home to a wide array of bodegas, such as vigneron Carmelo Patti’s authentically rustic cellar door on San Martín, where you can sample Bordeaux-style blends, or the recently opened Anaia Wines in Agrelo, about 20 minutes by road south on San Martín – here, in a tribute to the national tea drink, the producer has developed the first mate gourd-shaped concrete fermentation tanks.

Given the urban proximity, activities are located closer together, so those looking to burn off a few wine calories can pedal to tastings. Elevation is very gradual, so there’s no real need for a mountain bike; maps guiding you to the likes of Alta Vista, Clos de Chacras and Viamonte are provided when you rent from Vistalba Bikes on Embalse Potrerillos.

Luján is home to a second Mendoza bodega that focuses on traditional winemaking. Though its building was constructed in 1890, the Weinert family takes pride in the art of cooperage, restoring old casks at Weinert Bodegas y Cavas, which was founded in 1975. After visiting the red-brick cellars and beautifully crafted toneles casks, enjoy a vertical tasting that, if you’re in luck with your timing, could even include a 1977 Malbec.

At the other end of the winemaking spectrum you’ll find Riccitelli Wines in Las Compuertas on the western edge of Luján. Matías Riccitelli is both playful and serious, sourcing old-vine Chenin Blanc and Merlot from Río Negro, Patagonia, while also creating the low-intervention and pét-nat range Kung Fu, which gets snapped up by the Buenos Aires hipster drinking set. Book a tasting and a table at the bistro, helmed by passionate seed collector Juan Ventureyra, whose plant-focused lunch menu is a refreshing break from asado.

Recent restaurant-in-bodega openings include chef Francis Mallmann’s outdoor dining experience Ramos Generales at Kaiken off Roque Sáenz Peña; La Jamonería at Vistalba, nearby, further along the main road; and in the same area, new for 2023, enjoy charcuterie pairing at Mauricio Vegetti’s La Bodeguita at Lui Wines (@luiwines).

As many wineries only open for lunch, Brindillas restaurant in Chacras is great intel for a dinner date, while a 15-minute drive north in Godoy Cruz is Planta Uno. Here, Bodega Lagarde’s Sofía Pescarmona overhauled a former metals factory to create a well-curated indoor food hall that includes wine bars and small eateries, avoids big brand names and, importantly, opens until 1am.

Where to eat

At 5 Suelos – Cocina de Finca in Las Compuertas, chef Patricia Courtois recounts Argentina’s history paired with the Durigutti brothers’ wines on her 14-course Menú Historia.

Where to stay

A welcome massage and in-room sauna is the first step to relaxing bliss at SB Winemaker’s House & Spa Suites, Mendoza’s most illustrious 2022 hotel opening, which includes La VidA restaurant.

Day 3: Agrelo

Cross Ruta 7 – the road linking the Atlantic ocean with the Pacific – to Agrelo, in the southern part of Luján de Cuyo. Home to a host of big-name wineries located at about 950m elevation, take your pick of fabulous vintages in a vineyard-to-glass situation, because the options are numerous and the wineries again in relatively close proximity, mostly off Ruta 7. You can opt to tuck into a paired lunch at Ruca Malen, a picnic at Espacio Crios, farm-picked pistachios at Caelum, a bubbly bistro lunch at Chandon, or a biodynamic tasting at Chakana. Remember all bodegas require advance reservations.

Two Agrelo top guns are Viña Cobos and Catena Zapata – named World’s Best Vineyard 2023 – located a 10-minute drive away. There are two carefully curated tastings at Paul Hobbs-run Cobos, now on its 25th vintage: and now Angélica – Cocina Maestra gives it some architectural competition in the shape of a majestic Italian-style villa complete with watchtower and basement distillery. Throwing open its mighty glass and steel doors in February 2023, the Catena family’s many award-winning vintages take centre stage at its first venture into hospitality beyond tastings – fourth-generation managing director Laura Catena and winemaker Alejandro Vigil join forces to challenge chef Iván Azar to match dishes to wine.

Other recent Agrelo openings include Quimera (@quimerabistro), just off Ruta 7, from Achaval Ferrer, whose culinary approach combines a farm-to-table concept with fire. If you’re keen to squeeze in more tastings and eat on the hop, grab a home-cured ham sandwich at the food truck where Ruta 7 meets Cobos street. An unexpected experience is Las Palapas, housed next to vineyards and the scenic Potrerillos dam, a cool Sunday afternoon electronic music party that attracts internationally reputed DJs.

Where to eat

Enjoy a hands-on dining experience picking your salad and crimping empanadas before savouring the lunchtime fine dining menu at Zonda.

Where to stay

Book a luxurious villa among vineyards then chill at the spa after a hard day’s tasting at Cavas Wine Lodge, Mendoza’s only Relais & Châteaux property.

Day 4: Uco Valley

From Chacras de Coria, it’s a 60- to 90-minute drive south to Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos, the Uco Valley’s three principal departments, where snow-capped mountains dominate the landscape. Seeing the 6,570m-high Tupungato volcano means Uco is within reach and a chance to get closer to nature – and the Andes.

Grapes and orchard fruits have long been cultivated in the valley and Salentein was a pioneer in making wine at high elevation in Tunuyán in the late 1990s; located on Ruta 89, the bodega boasts majestic architecture to complement its world-class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Malbec. Within the estate, stop by Killka gallery, whose exhibits bring together Argentinian and Dutch artists.

A five-minute drive from Salentein is Domaine Bousquet, a certified organic bodega that also produces kosher Malbec; ask to sample it on the one-hour guided visit. As sustainability is Domaine Bousquet’s main philosophy, the seasonal menu at its restaurant, Gaia, is strictly organic, chef Adrián Baggio sourcing many ingredients from the winery’s orchard.

In nearby Gualtallary, winemaker Matías Michelini’s Sitio La Estocada is a lesson in biodynamic agriculture. Helped by grazing animals, Matías’ family tend the vineyards from which he sources grapes for his Passionate Wine range. An experiential gem is the lunar cycle dinner, on full and new moon nights.

Half an hour’s drive away on Ruta 94, The Vines of Mendoza has grown so exponentially since conceiving its private vineyard project – enabling members of the public to realise their dream of owning a vineyard and making premium-quality wine – it now houses successful spin-off winery projects spawned from the original idea, namely Corazón del Sol and SoloContigo. SuperUco, the joint Michelini brothers project, is also based here; all three are open to the public. A recent addition to the Vines project is Mitre Fortín distillery, the producer (in a different location) of Principe de los Apostoles, Argentina’s first premium gin brand.

A lovely wining and dining alternative is to mount a four-legged friend for a mountainous expedition. The gauchos from the Cabalgatas de la Quebrada del Cóndor (@quebradadelcondor) lead small groups through cattle pasture and into the Andes on relaxed steeds that might huff and puff on steeper slopes. The view from the top is incredible, proffering a true feel of the valley’s breadth. Ride it or trek it – if you’ve worked up an appetite, asado (and a glass of vino) awaits at the log cabin.

Where to eat

Breathe in fresh mountain air while clapping along to contagious live folk music, paired with empanadas, at the charming Bodega La Azul.

Where to stay

Luxury hospitality pioneers in Uco, many of The Vines of Mendoza’s spacious villas have fabulous Andean views; take your swimwear so you can enjoy a dip in the outdoor jacuzzi.

Day 5: San Carlos & Vista Flores

When a bodega picks up the World’s Best Vineyard prize three consecutive times, you ought to squeeze everything you can from it. That accolade went to family-run winery Zuccardi Valle de Uco in Paraje Altamira, San Carlos, between 2019 and 2021. It’s fair to say third-generation winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi improves with age: his Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal 2018 recently picked up 100 Parker points. Flavour-neutral concrete egg tanks let the vineyard parcels do the talking, while marvellous Andean views and succulent T-bone steaks are calling at Piedra Infinita restaurant; you can easily spend a day savouring a guided visit, tasting and paired lunch.

Another nearby estate where you can while away a day wining and dining is the Michel Rolland-founded Clos de los Siete, which houses the wineries of Flecha de los Andes, Monteviejo, Cuvelier Los Andes and Diamandes. An ambitious winery project, Clos de los Siete involves the four bodegas, run by four Bordeaux families and encompassing 850ha of vineyards, contributing elements to a single Bordeaux-style blend, while also making their own wines. And if you’re in need of 360° panoramas, drop Gabriel Dvoskin of Canopus Vinos a line. His low-intervention, cool-climate Pintom Pinot Noir and Y La Nave Va Malbec from El Cepillo have been exciting Argentinian sommeliers for years; given that he hosts sporadic yet intimate vineyard tastings – conducted with as little embellishment as his vintages – it’s worth getting in touch.

Where to eat

Whatever the weather, wrap up warmly for an al fresco lunch at Cundo, not far from Zuccardi just outside La Consulta, where chef Seba Juez prepares a classy six-course Uco-focused menu.

Where to stay

Check into a vineyard home at La Morada Lodge, just west of Vista Flores, where the cellars are stocked by top sommelier Andrés Rosberg, then toast the peace of Los Chacayes.

How to get there

There are numerous daily flights from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery in Buenos Aires to Mendoza. Flight time is around 90 minutes. Hire a car at Mendoza’s El Plumerillo airport; it’s a 30-minute drive to Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, 90 minutes to the Uco Valley.

Related articles

• Paraje Altamira: The Geographic Indication that transformed Argentina’s terroirs & 20 wines tasted
• Argentina: Award-winning wines to celebrate Malbec World Day
• Susana Balbo Torrontes: Taking Argentina to new heights

Inside the September 2023 issue of Decanter magazine:

FEATURES

• Napa Cabernet 2020 vintage report Jonathan Cristaldi reveals where to find the high points in a challenging year, with 40 top buys
• South America’s winemakers take flight Amanda Barnes on the transformation that has occurred, and the personalities behind it
• My top 20 high-altitude Malbec Alejandro Iglesias introduces 20 delicious Argentinian reds
• Innovation in Brazil Decanter’s Julie Sheppard is impressed by the dynamism of its rising wine scene
• Regional profile: Condrieu Matt Walls on just why these Viogniers inspire winemakers far and wide
• Mind the gender gap Why has the world of fine wine been so male-dominated, asks Anne Krebiehl MW, as she meets a few female collectors bucking the trend

LEARNING

• Wine wisdom Expert tips to help you on your journey through wine

Read the new issue in full on the Decanter Premium app

Unlimited reviews | Exclusive articles | Recommendations | Priority booking | No ads

SPIRITS

• Distilled Spirits, cocktails, insight – plus five scotch whiskies to savour
• White rum – the next tequila? Alicia Miller discovers that white rum is gaining a serious following

GOOD LIVING

• Perfect pairings for mature Burgundy Trained chef and Burgundy expert Charles Curtis MW cooks up delicious dishes to pair with older vintages
• Travel: Five stunning days in Mendoza Sorrel Moseley-Williams sets out the itinerary for a wine trip you’ll never forget

BUYING GUIDE

• Editors’ picks Recent tasting highlights from Decanter staff
• Panel tasting: American Cabernet Franc Stylistic diversity was on show in a revealing tasting of wines from North and South
• Panel tasting: US Chardonnay The cooler-climate wine regions of North America shone here
• Expert’s choice: Uruguay Patricio Tapia picks 18 wines to showcase the country’s potential
• Weekday wines 25 top wines under £20 chosen by the Decanter team
• Weekend wines Priced £20-£50, seven standout buys to impress

COLLECTORS

• Marketwatch investment news What’s new; focus on California
• Americas on La Place Via Bordeaux: 15 releases for 2023, prefaced by Chris Mercer

REGULARS

• Meet the experts Decanter’s authors
• Uncorked News, views & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column Does exclusivity mean exclusion?
• Guest column: Olly Smith His 10 Commandments for Greek wine
• Wine to 5: Chris Ashton Wine logistics expert

Also out now: Decanter magazine DWWA supplement: September 2023

Subscribe to the print magazine and enjoy great savings today

Pick up a cut-price subscription to Decanter, wherever in the world you are

or

Get access to this issue and previous issues dating back to 2013 with the Decanter Premium app

Gift a Decanter Premium subscription 

Unlimited reviews | Exclusive articles | Recommendations | Priority booking | No ads

About 20 years ago, Argentina saw the first stirrings of what would become known as the ‘terroir revolution’. During this time, wineries began to carry out in-depth studies of their vineyards to gain a better understanding of the effect the local conditions had on their wines.

This meant that it became useful for labels to state an exact place of origin, to indicate what drinkers might expect of the terroir-imbued character of the wines.

In 1999, the National Institute of Viticulture of Argentina (NIV) began a programme of Geographic Indications (GI) based around existing political boundaries – namely provinces, departments and districts. However, those demarcations did not necessarily align with the natural boundaries responsible for lending wines their distinctive profiles.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 20 spectacular Paraje Altamira wines

Luis Reginato, head of vineyards at Catena Zapata, remembers: ‘We were enthusiastic about the idea of putting the exact origins of the grapes on the label. At the time, you could put “Mendoza, Argentina”, or maybe “Uco Valley”, but we knew that the Uco Valley has a range of diverse climates and soils, and so we started a study programme to gather information and knowledge that we’d never had before.’

During this process, Paraje Altamira GI was created, a milestone in the history of Argentinian wine – and one of the new and most exciting ‘grand crus’ in South America.

The Paraje Altamira example

‘The work we did to create the Paraje Altamira GI was essential. We’d never studied the climate, soils and geological origins of a specific place in such detail, and we worked in partnership with distinguished experts and institutions,’ says Hervé Birnie-Scott, estate director at Terrazas de los Andes.

The spur came in 2010, when the wineries Catena Zapata, Familia Zuccardi and Chandon (Terrazas de los Andes) invited the Universidad Nacional de Cuyo to run the research programme and present the results to the NIV. But there were further obstacles that needed to be resolved first.

‘Altamira had two issues that we had to deal with,’ says Sebastián Zuccardi. ‘ The name was registered as a trademark and we couldn’t use it. Also, it didn’t have any geographic boundaries; it was an area within the District of La Consulta (Department of San Carlos, Uco Valley).

The quality of the vineyards had earned them their own name among the locals: “Altamira”. We all knew that we needed to start promoting the place so we commissioned the most detailed studies possible to show the NIV that the region had its own distinctive characteristics.’

The studies included soil mapping, geological information, satellite imagery and the assaying of hundreds of soil samples to show that the area studied – designated as ‘Altamira’ – shared a set of characteristics that differentiated it from neighbouring areas. This would allow a new GI border to be drawn up. It was then that the leaders of the initiative came up with the idea of adding ‘Paraje’ (a local term for settlement or village) to differentiate it from the trademark.

Eventually, in 2013, the GI was approved and since 2014 it has been permitted to put the term on the labels of wines from the area.

Paraje Altamira GI: The facts

Location San Carlos Department, Uco Valley, Mendoza

Altitude 975m-1,097m

Total area 7,472ha

Cultivated area 2,733ha

Climate Continental, dry, sunny, significant thermal amplitude (Winkler III)

Soils Alluvial, heterogenous, stony soils rich in calcium carbonate

Main grapes Malbec 65%; Cabernet Sauvignon 15%; Chardonnay 6%; Pinot Noir 4%; Syrah 3%; Cabernet Franc 2%; Merlot 2%; Sauvignon Blanc 1,5% & Semillon 0.5%

Where is Paraje Altamira?

Paraje Altamira is a village located in San Carlos, a department to the south of the Uco Valley. It encompasses 2,733ha of vineyards in the southern alluvial cone of the Tunuyán River. This is what lends the area its defining characteristic: heterogenous, stony soils rich in calcium carbonate.

‘Paraje Altamira is the highest part of the alluvial cone of the Tunuyán River and also the highest part of La Consulta,’ says the geophysicist and educator Guillermo Corona, the author of the book Geografía del Vino (‘A Geography of Wine’).

‘The main difference between the two sectors is that in Altamira the stones coated in calcium carbonate are found closer to the surface, and so come into direct contact with the roots of the vines. That doesn’t happen in La Consulta, where the soils are deeper and are more sandy-loam based. The soils are the key factor, not the climate, because the slope is shallow and there’s not a great difference in height,’ he explains.

Reginato adds: ‘The vineyards in Paraje Altamira tend to be north-facing and so are more exposed to the sun. They’re planted at a height of between 975m and 1,097m, in dry conditions like the rest of the Mendoza, with a significant thermal amplitude; the temperatures plunge at night.’

Grape vines and other fruit have been grown here since the 20th century and were always famous for their quality. ‘A secondary factor is over a century of flood irrigation, which means that the soils have a greater amount of limestone on the surface. The vineyards planted in the last 20 years, in virgin soils, use drip irrigation in stonier soils. They also interact with the local flora,’ concludes Corona.

High-quality wines

‘The historic quality of the grapes and wines in this area was what motivated us to work on the creation of the GI,’ says Birnie-Scott. ‘Terrazas de los Andes regards it as a modern classic of the Uco Valley. Classic in the sense that it’s balanced and harmonious, delivering intensity and complex aromatic profiles with dark fruit and lots of spice, power and precise tannins in the mouth – and excellent ageing potential.’

Leading winemakers in the area include Sebastián Zuccardi and his Finca Piedra Infinita vineyard whose 38ha are divided into 36 parcels due to the vast range of soil types found at the foot of the Andes. ‘The Malbecs stand out for their red and blue fruit, but the most important quality is the chalky texture provided by the white layer of limestone material that covers the stones, which define the place’s elegant character,’ he says.

Although the greatest amount of surface area is dedicated to Malbec, ‘historically the Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Semillon have always stood out and account for the oldest vineyards in Paraje Altamira. New plantings of Cabernet Franc are another trend that is seeing really excellent results,’ says Andrea Ferreyra, head oenologist at La Celia, which has been in the region for over a century.

The future and legacy

Since it was first approved, the GI has been expanded to an overall surface area of 7,472ha, of which over one-third is under vine. Ten years after the original studies, some producers are exploring the possibility of future subdivisions, now that they have better knowledge of the soil profiles, exposure and altitude.

Whatever happens to Paraje Altamira in the future, it is important to note how its initial appearance changed the Argentinian wine scene.

The 2013 initiative established the minimum requirements for the GIs that followed, such as its neighbour Pampa El Cepillo, Los Chacayes and San Pablo in Tunuyán, and several more across the rest of Argentina. It has also inspired some of the existing GIs to implement new studies and draw up fresh maps for their own terroirs.

Paraje Altamira: 20 top wines to try

Related articles

• Susana Balbo Torrontes: taking Argentina to new heights
• Argentina harvest report 2023: ‘Low yields but with unprecedented balance’
• Argentina: Award-winning wines to celebrate Malbec World Day

Any discussion of viticulture in Argentina will inevitably include the Andes and the effect of high-altitude landscapes on the country’s wines, especially Malbecs. The intense, flavourful character that red wines develop in this South American country is a direct result of the arid, sunny terroirs that can be found in the Andean foothills.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 high-altitude Malbecs

Over the past 20 years, however, wine-growers and oenologists have been working hard to better understand the effects of high-altitude terroirs. This has led to a striking evolution in the wines being produced.

Many have come to the conclusion that vineyard plantings need to go even higher up the mountains to obtain fresher, more precise styles. Hence the term ‘High-Altitude Malbec’ has come into vogue, in order to differentiate the refined but vibrant wines made at these extreme heights.

High ambitions

For years, it was believed that the main determining factor at altitude was the intense solar radiation. It’s true that grapes receive more UV rays the higher you go – encouraging the development of thicker skins and thus more colour, tannic structure and body in the Malbecs. But it’s also the case that temperatures get cooler.For every 150m you go up a mountain, the temperature drops by 1°C.

Traditionally, the vineyards of Argentina were located in warm, arid, sunny areas. So it was inevitable that Argentinian Malbec’s association with the Andes is firmly established. But in recent years wine-growers are going even higher in their quest for freshness and precision. Our expert’s selection of top reds well illustrates the benefits of these high-altitude terroirs winemakers looking for cooler conditions that would help to create greater natural acidity would be tempted to go further up the slopes, pushing the boundaries ever higher.

That quest for the vibrant natural freshness that creates more elegant wines started in Mendoza – Argentina’s main wine-growing region – with the development of promising areas of the Uco Valley. Here, vineyards start at about 1,000m above sea level.

For example, in Gualtallary, Argentina’s star region right now, vines are being grown as high as 1,600m by Terrazas de los Andes to produce its Parcel El Espinillo Malbec, a red of uncommon tension. Meanwhile, in San Pablo, a region that ranges between 1,280m-1,700m, Salentein, Tapiz, Trivento and Zuccardi are taking on the challenges of the height and cold to produce some superb wines.

Elsewhere in the valley, a winery in Uspallata is growing Malbec at a height of nearly 1,900m and obtaining an exquisitely fluid, fruity and herbal character as a result. Over in the province of San Juan, plantings in the Pedernal Valley, at 1,400m above sea level, have transformed the reputation of Malbec from the area.

However, further to the north in Argentina, in the Calchaquí Valleys, viticulture has always begun at a height of 1,500m. In spots such as Luracatao, Pucará, Molinos, Cachi or Payogasta, in Salta province, and the Quebrada de Humahuaca in Jujuy, terroirs can be found set at between 1,980m and 3,080m above sea level. They are producing Malbecs with bewitchingly exotic, raw profiles.

While it would be foolhardy to try to apply a general description to all high-altitude Malbecs, producers are increasingly opting to bring out the fruity, floral and herbal qualities of the grape, supported by juicier, tarter palates. This is certainly true of the 20 labels I’ve selected, as follows.

20 top high-altitude Malbecs to try

Related articles

• Best Malbec wine: Top Argentinian bottles
• Value Argentinian Malbec: panel tasting results
• South American Cabernet Sauvignon: setting the standard

Use our ‘wines for father’s day’ persona guide for some inspiration to decide which fine wine gift your dad deserves.

The Rhône Wolf

Would you describe your dad as a perfect combination of power and finesse? Pamper your Châteauneuf-du-Papa with one of Matt Walls’ favourite Rhône picks, selected in 2021.

Search all of Decanter’s Rhône wine reviews

Champagne Charlie

Is your dad the life and soul of the party? It’s worth spending the extra cash when it’s a gift made for sharing. The original ‘Champagne Charlie’ could be an option for those looking to spend serious money. Try one of these top-scoring vintage Champagnes tasted last year.

Alternatively, there are plenty of options in our guide to the best non-vintage Champagnes to buy.

Search all of Decanter’s Champagne reviews

Piedmont Papa

An offering for those regal patriarchs who identify with what’s often referred to as the ‘king of wine’: Barolo. Decanter expert Michaela Morris focuses on the highly-esteemed Barolo commune of Serralunga d’Alba. Her wine recommendations are sure to please the most majestic of all.

Search all of Decanter’s Barolo wine reviews

Malbec Man

Uncomplicated doesn’t have to be dull, and perhaps your dad is a man of simple pleasures; someone who loves a juicy steak with a glass or two of luscious red. 

Why not step it up a gear and indulge him in some of the top drops from Argentina? The Decanter team recommends a selection of fantastic Malbecs from Mendoza and beyond.

If you want to venture to Malbec’s original homeland in the South of France, Decanter‘s Georgie Hindle recommends 40 Cahors wines to try. 

Search all of Decanter’s Malbec wine reviews 

Napa Cab dad

Did your dad make waves in the 1970s? Would you describe him as a pioneer? Perhaps it’s time to reward his boldness with a great Napa Cabernet. Jane Anson explores some of the top Napa Cabernet wines from the Judgement of Napa.

Search all of Decanter’s Napa Cabernet reviews

Suave Sancerre Sipper

Eloquent, erudite and a dab-hand at the pub quiz. Serve your sophisticated father some crisp Sancerre – learn how to choose the best with Jim Budd’s guide and recommendations.

Search all of Decanter’s Sancerre wine reviews

Old School Francophile

Those classic gents who’ve held a lifelong devotion to the noble reds of Bordeaux will forgive all your teenage trespasses, if you buy them a classic claret.

There is so much to choose from here, of course, but why not choose something for him to enjoy in the future? With the en primeur campaign in full swing, look at Georgie Hindle’s pick of the top scoring 2021 wines.

Otherwise, look back to a classic vintage with picks from the Bordeaux 2011: Ten years on tasting.

Search Decanter’s latest Bordeaux wine reviews here

Pink-loving Pater

If your dad loves to don a salmon pink shirt, then maybe a colour-coordinated approach is called for. Try a cool Provence rosé on a sunny afternoon, and he can dream of selling up and making wine, with one of Elizabeth Gabay MW’s top picks for summer.

Search all of Decanter’s Provence rosé wine reviews

Pensive Pinot Philosopher

Do you regard your dad as one of the family’s great thinkers? Channel his inner Rousseau with some great reds from Burgundy’s famous ‘climats’.

For those seeking excellent value from the 2020 vintage, why not consider one of Charles Curtis MW’s top choices.

For a New World alternative, perhaps a premium New Zealand Pinot to indulge your intellectual.

Search all of Decanter’s Pinot Noir reviews

The Lovable Rioja Rogue 

With a smooth edge that can only come with age, Rioja can be a perfect match for those who love a deal; mature Rioja is still relatively good value versus other fine wine regions.

Amaya Cervera’s overview of 20 vintages explains which wines are great to drink now and which your father would be wise to keep for the future.

Search all of Decanter’s Rioja wine reviews

Mâconnais Maestro

If your dad’s been really good this year – or you’ve been a little awful – then perhaps it’s time to push the boat out on some white Burgundy. Charles Curtis MW recommends the top five vintages ready for drinking.

If his tastes lean stateside, you might like to pick up a slice of California with one of Ronan Sayburn MS’s Sonoma Chardonnays.

Search all of Decanter’s Burgundy reviews

Inspector Gadget

So if it’s not a wine, but for a dad who has a shed-load already – or prefers to choose his own – how about a Coravin system?

Otherwise a Decanter Premium subscription, including the Premium App, will give him 1,000 tasting notes a month from Decanter‘s experts. 

Related articles

• Ten of the best: gins to buy for Mother’s Day
• The best rums for whisky lovers: six to try
• Best whisky gifts: The bottles to buy

Stefan Neumann MS has spent almost two decades in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants, most recently as director of wine at two Michelin star Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, in London. He started his own wine consultancy in 2021 connecting the right wine with the right people; often to assist with cellar management and wine investment. Stefan also consults for Fells, UK importer for prestigious family-owned wineries such as Symington Family Estates.

What if you could travel back in time? Would you dare to try wines made in Bordeaux before the 1855 Classification came into place? Actually you can get a taste of this historical style without seeking out your nearest time machine as, back in the day, claret was often based on Malbec, or had a high percentage in the final blend.

I first learned this on a trip to Mendoza, many moons ago. It needed a second push, but when I visited Margaret River in Western Australia earlier this year it became evident to me that Cabernet-Malbec blends represent the perfect ‘marriage’ of two grape varieties.

Margaret River and Mendoza boast a unique heritage of both varieties, each region with its own story to tell. In the case of Mendoza, the vines are often ungrafted and grown in extreme conditions. An altitude of 1,000 metres above sea level in poor soils with a high sunlight intensity and a scarcity of water is no walk in the park; but the strongest steel is made in the hottest fire.

Maritime in climate, Margaret River enjoys close-to-perfect growing conditions – the biggest challenge is often the population of local birds, which like to snack on the grapes at harvest time.

Popular double act

So why my love for this blend? Why do I believe they are the King and Queen of the wine world. Cabernet provides a wonderful structure and framework, giving plenty of dark fruit with a lifted, spicy note. Malbec enters the stage differently, complementing the blend with a floral character, often violet, and has a persistent, subtle drive and energy. I find Cabernet more upfront on the palate, whereas Malbec is the gentle giant, appearing more on the mid-palate and finish.

It’s the harmony in a wine when these two varieties meet that I find irresistible. Somehow these wines manage to get this balancing act of power, finesse and utter deliciousness just right, vintage after vintage.

Unsurprisingly, I find great joy in opening these to accompany red meat, yet you can experiment with equally exciting food pairings. From your very own best version of a ratatouille to stuffed peppers and aubergines, these blends can easily deal with a bit of spice, too. Pour a glass with lamb samosas or stews like a Brazilian feijoada.

Now it’s up to you to seek out a taste of history, and what better way to do this than with a glass of wine. Seek out a Cabernet-Malbec blend – perhaps one of those recommended below – and discover a style that’s robust, harmonious and perfect for these winter months.

Neumann’s pick: Cabernet-Malbec blends

Vasse Felix, Tom Cullity, Margaret River 2018 (82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot; the 2017 vintage is slightly higher in Cabernet, £109 Australian Wines Online) is perfumed and truly inviting, loaded with blue and red fruits and a subtle bergamot note. Carefully crafted by Virginia Willcock and her team since 2013 from some of the oldest and most precious plots on this beautiful Western Australian estate.

The Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza 2017 from Argentina (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Franc; £67 Berry Bros & Rudd) has a darker fruit scent, and I love the sweet, spicy, slightly earthy nose. Like a world-class ballerina: power and grace, with an ethereal quality. This is Dr Laura Catena’s favourite vintage of this wine since 1995, and I couldn’t agree more!

Related articles

• Sommelier Secrets Germany: Andy Benn
• Sommelier Secrets Singapore: Lucas Liu
• The sommelier suggests… Roussanne by Evan Goldstein MS

‘Argentina is showing Cabernet Franc, both single varietal versions and blended with Malbec, like no other county does,’ comments Paz Levinson, DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina, in a 2020 decanter.com interview.

And just two years on, results from the recent 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards point to this variety’s promise, particularly in Mendoza, with four varietal Cabernet Francs awarded 97 points, along with many more Gold and Silver medals.

Cabernet Franc from Argentina is, explains Levinson, ‘like a combination of Anjou and St-Emilion with the factor of altitude, resulting in very expressive wines on the nose, full of spices and bell pepper, and on the palate very fresh, with chalky tannins but with body and weight.’

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Mendoza Cabernet Franc wines from DWWA 2022

On the 2022 results, DWWA Co-Chair Andrew Jefford adds: ‘The appearance of two different Cabernet Franc wines in the Best in Show selection underscores the seriousness with which this variety is now regarded away from its Bordeaux and Loire heartlands.’

A variety with growing international focus, and a region with standout success in the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards: discover below a selection of top Mendoza Cabernet Franc wines to enjoy…

Mendoza: Cabernet Franc focus

Pacheco Pereda, Estirpe Organic Fairtrade, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo 2021

97 Value Best in Show

pachecopereda.com

The appearance of two different Cabernet Franc wines in the DWWA Best in Show selection this year underscores the seriousness with which this variety is now being regarded away from its Bordeaux and Loire valley heartlands. This Value Best in Show version from Agrelo delivers, as you’d expect, extravagant fruit pleasure. It’s dark black-red in colour, with warm, sweetly pippy scents bubbling from the glass. In the mouth, it’s a smooth flood of soft, vibrant raspberry and damson fruits which, despite the gentleness of both its acidity and its tannins, still contrives to give the drinker a sense of texture, amplitude – and satisfaction. A sense of gravity, too, lifts those fruit flavours well clear of simplicity: another Franc hallmark? You decide. Alcohol 14%

El Enemigo, Gran Enemigo, El Cepillo, San Carlos 2018

97 Platinum

enemigowines.com

Pretty and inviting on the nose with gorgeous aromas of floral violet, cassis and completed with a lifted, delicate liquorice note. The palate is graced with deep herb, pepper, crunchy red fruit and graceful, silky tannins. Alc 14%

Los Helechos, Designado, Vista Flores, Tunuyán 2019

97 Platinum

bodegaloshelechos.com.ar

Lifted, floral and bright, with very pretty aromatics of heady violet, green pepper and balsamic, then on to a plush palate textured with crunchy red fruit, elegant tart fruit, succulent tannins and focused, graceful tannins. Alc 14.4%

Zorzal, Gran Terroir, Gualtallary, Tupungato 2021

97 Platinum

POA Hallgarten Wines

Restrained, elegant and perfumed, with beautiful aromatics of red pepper, a herbal lift, pure red fruit and a gorgeous floral note. Then to a palate graced with plush, concentrated fruit, supple, silky tannins and pretty, fresh acidity. Very good ageing potential. Alc 14.3%

Trivento, Golden Reserve Black Series, Paraje Altamira 2019

96 Gold

trivento.com

Perfumed and inviting, with a beautiful aromatic nose of scented violet, cassis, dark plum, liquorice and pepper, then to a palate of clove spice, blackberry, cassis and tobacco. Alc 14.5%

Fabre Montmayou, Reserva 2021

95 Value Gold

fabremontmayou.com

Dark and brooding, with plush aromas of dark fruit and black spice, while the palate is laced with earthy fruit and graceful, rolling tannins. Alc 14.5% 

Zuccardi, Brazos, Uco Valley 2021

95 Value Gold

POA Hatch Mansfield

Lifted and floral on the nose, with hints of peppery, plush fruit, then on to a palate of silky smooth tannins and lush, fresh fruit. Alc 14%

Bodegas Bianchi, Particular 2019

94 Silver

US$32-$36 67 Wine, JC Wine & Spirits

Gorgeous, concentrated nose of jammy fruit and sweet spice; palate of red fruit, mint and tight tannins. Alc 14.6%

Familia Innocenti, Angulo Innocenti, La Consulta 2019

93 Silver

anguloinnocenti.com

Fragrant and inviting nose of herb, green pepper and dried flowers; palate of dried fig, incense and candied red fruit. Alc 14.5%

Salentein, Numina, Uco Valley 2020

93 Silver

bodegasalentein.com

Pretty, inviting aromatic fruit on the nose, racy fruit and textured tannins on the palate. Alc 15%

Antucura, Barrandica, Vista Flores, Tunuyán 2021

92 Silver

antucura.com

Restrained and elegant on the nose, with hints of violet and dark fruit; palate of generous fruit and silky tannins. Alc 13.5%

Bodega Norton, Altura, Uco Valley 2020

92 Silver

POA Berkmann

Generous aromas of cocoa powder and roasted coconut, then a palate of vibrant fruit and bright acidity. Alc 14.5%

Clos de Chacras, Memorias de Ida La Estratega 2018

92 Silver

closdechacras.com.ar

Inviting, with hints of redcurrant, cassis, tobacco and cedar on the nose, liquorice, prune and polished tannins on the palate. Alc 14.8%

Huentala, Gran Sombrero, Uco Valley 2021

92 Silver

huentalawines.com

Inviting nose of bright, clean fruit, then a palate of blackcurrant, herb, pencil shavings and supple tannins. Alc 14.4%

La Celia, Pioneer, La Consulta, Uco Valley 2018

92 Silver

laceliawines.com

Generous aromatics of toasty, smoked fruit leading to a palate underpinned with succulent tannins. Alc 14%

You may also like

Platinum: The 97 point wines of DWWA 2022

Argentina: Award-winning wines to celebrate Malbec World Day

Top Cabernet Franc from Argentina and Chile

Alistair Cooper MW, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW and David Williams tasted 149 wines, with 15 Highly Recommended.

Value Argentinian Malbec panel tasting scores

149 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 15

Recommended 92

Commended 40

Fair 1

Poor 1

Faulty 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release vintage Argentinian red wines containing at least 85% Malbec

We received a whopping 149 samples for this marathon tasting, illustrating just how competitive this sector of the Malbec market is.

Having recently taken part in the impressive premium Malbec tasting for Decanter, I was keen to assess the value proposition at the more affordable end of the market.

Disappointingly I was left underwhelmed and somewhat confused as to the direction that producers are pursuing at the grass roots level.

Scroll down for the top-scoring value Argentinian Malbec wines

Stylistic uncertainty seems to be the key issue, as well as inconsistency.

At the premium end we had seen a refreshing move away from over-extraction and over-oaking towards an emphasis on purity and expression of place. Yet here we saw too many clumsy wines, with winemakers favouring style over substance.

David Williams made an interesting observation: ‘In Spain, the focus at this price-point has shifted, with an emphasis being placed on drinkability. It seems that here there is almost too much ambition, such as pushing the fruit too far (ripeness) or being heavy-handed in the winery. I would like to see winemakers trust more in purity of fruit.’

For me, old-fashioned heavy oaking was one of the biggest problems; I thought that we had moved away from it. This led us to wonder whether producers believe that consumers expect oak-led wines at this sub-£20 price point otherwise they will feel short-changed – especially given the association that exists now between full-bodied Malbec and steak.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW added: ‘There seems to be a lack of concentration of fruit, so I wonder what yields they are working with? Consumers want fruit exuberance, and there seemed to be too much of the winemakers’ imprint over varietal typicity rather than well-managed fruit in the vineyard.’

See all 149 wines from the Value Argentinian Malbec panel tasting

Vintage variation was an interesting factor in this tasting. I was surprised by the poor display of wines from the acclaimed 2019 vintage. All too often the wines were dry, stripped, with marked tannins. In contrast, the 2020 and especially the 2021 vintages fared better, showing brighter fruit and a perception of freshness as well as increased concentration overall.

Another question we asked was whether at this price point producers may wish to consider blending in other varieties in small amounts to add brighter fruit? Perhaps a dash of Bonarda, or even Cabernet Franc? Or perhaps just eschewing oak in favour of more neutral vessels such as concrete or cement tanks might be a cheaper and easier way to achieve this brightening effect?

Vianna suggested that maybe we just had our expectations set too high and should consider the results from another point of view. ‘Of the 149 wines, 107 of them were rated Recommended (86pts) or above,’ he said. ‘So perhaps in some respects it is not a disappointment and we are simply being too demanding!’ This is an interesting take, and certainly should be considered.

But on the flip side, only two wines scored higher than 90 points (with 13 at 90pts), and that, too, is telling. In short, fans of Malbec are unlikely to experience many highs under £20, but equally should be generally satisfied at the entry-level end of the market.

Top-scoring value Argentinian Malbec: 

The judges

Alistair Cooper MW is a wine consultant, writer, broadcaster and educator with a particular focus on South America. President of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile, he is also consultant wine buyer for United Cellars in Sydney.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant, educator and broadcaster. Moving to the UK in 1989, he spent much of his career as wine director for some of the UK’s most prominent wine distributors, and in 2008 he became the first South American male to obtain the Master of Wine title.

David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish. He is also wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant.

Related content

Argentina harvest report 2022: ‘wines with excellent ageing potential’

Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2021

South American Cabernet Sauvignon: setting the standard

How many doctors does it take to found a wine region? The answer is three in the case of Margaret River in Western Australia, whose pioneering vignerons included Thomas (Tom) Cullity of Vasse Felix, Kevin Cullen (Cullen Wines) and Bill Pannell (Moss Wood).

In 1967, just 4km from the Indian Ocean on the Wilyabrup ridge, Cullity planted Margaret River’s first vines that successfully went into commercial production. They included Cabernet Sauvignon, which put Margaret River on the map, as well as Malbec (the only other Bordeaux variety then available), Shiraz and Riesling.

Scroll down for a nine-wine vertical of Vasse Felix

Tom Cullity Cabernet blend and Heytesbury Chardonnay

Vasse Felix: the facts

FOUNDED 1967

PROPRIETOR Paul Holmes à Court

ANNUAL PRODUCTION 120,000-150,000 cases of 12

VINEYARDS 341ha

Home (Wilyabrup) – 52ha, gravel loam over clay

Boodjidup (Wallcliffe) – 112ha, gravel/sandy loam

Karridale (Karridale) – 30ha, sandy loam over calcium clay

Adams Road (Carbunup) – 147ha, deep red to sandy loam, some gravel and clay

KEY VARIETIES Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

Forty years later, following a lunch with Cullity in 2007, Vasse Felix’s owner Paul Holmes à Court felt moved to mark the pioneer’s legacy. Trials to make a new flagship red named after the Perth cardiologist began with old-vine Shiraz. Then old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Petit Verdot, a relative newcomer to Margaret River. Trials screeched to a halt when chief winemaker Virginia Willcock vinified a small parcel from Cullity’s original Malbec plantings. ‘It gave me goosebumps all over,’ she recalls.

Coinciding with the 50th anniversary of Cullity’s original plantings (which form the backbone of Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec), the inaugural 2013 vintage was released in 2017. ‘Like old boys, these old vines have seen it all before,’ says Willcock, remarking on their consistency of bunch weight, berry size and ‘plumpness of fruit with the most fine-boned tannins’. All loud and clear thumbprints in the vertical.

A Margaret River thumbprint

What makes them special? The Bordeaux comparisons are hard to ignore. Cullity was influenced by Dr John Gladstones’ seminal 1965 and 1966 reports about Margaret River’s quality potential for wine. Gladstones’ analysis was rooted in strong similarities to Bordeaux: the equable maritime climate and well-drained gravel, with adequate clay to support the growth of Margaret River’s vertiginous native Marri trees.

Having visited Bordeaux in 1961 (tasting 1959 Mouton Rothschild from barrel), Cullity selected a propitious knoll, with 800mm of gravel loam over clay. ‘It was all about drainage, because that’s how they grow in Bordeaux,’ says Willcock. Gravel loam drains in spring, keeping yields low, but clay provides enough moisture for these dry-grown blocks to ripen.

However, ‘We don’t make Cabernet like Bordeaux,’ she asserts. ‘We’ve forged our own path and style.’ After all, Margaret River is warmer and drier, with Indian summers in classic years. Hardly a disadvantage, as it contributes to immersive, fine-grained tannins and Malbec’s ripe, plump fruit.

The maritime climate produces fine-tuned, mid-weight wines with balanced acidity that age gracefully, but are broachable young (even top wines). Western Australia’s signature ‘Houghton’ clonal material has a bearing too. Margaret River’s winemakers describe it as light and juicy, fragrant and herbal, with fine powdery tannins, elegance and finesse.

For Willcock, Margaret River’s olfactory imprint – the scent of forest and ocean – is just as important. She always finds traces of Western Australian peppermint tree (Agonis flexuosa) in Tom Cullity. Kelp, bitter chocolate, dried roses, sage and ironstone gravel notes are also common regional traits and add savoury nuance.

Solids success

Willcock’s self-confessed ‘savoury tooth’ has been a huge factor in the success of a variety overlooked by Cullity (who sold Vasse Felix in 1984) and his successors, David and Anne Gregg. Having acquired the estate in 1987, the Holmes à Court family introduced Chardonnay, producing the first wine in 1990. By 1996, a Reserve (re-christened Heytesbury in 1997) emerged. In tune with the times, the best barrel selection was, says Willcock, ‘stylistically quite big’.

She joined Vasse Felix in 2006, catapulting it into Australia’s top tier of Chardonnay producers with a funkier, textural style. Winning 11 trophies, the 2010 Heytesbury became one of Australia’s most awarded Chardonnays.

Willcock, who Holmes à Court notes is more likely ‘to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission’, drew from Burgundian traditions that were, for many years, anathema in Australia. Naturally fermenting Heytesbury on full solids (with no settling), pressing straight to barrel and lees-ageing adds character, expressing a different dimension of the Gin Gin Chardonnay clone. This Western Australian heritage clone is renowned for great acid retention, phenolic skins and al dente ripeness. Only a handful of cooler, east-facing blocks on clay-driven soils can combine Heytesbury’s charismatic blend of funk, texture and tension so precisely, says Willcock.

Moving on up

Holmes à Court, who became sole owner of Vasse Felix in 2008, is keen to identify more Heytesbury ‘Grand Cru’ sites. Following intensive viticultural investment, there is surely scope. Under Holmes à Court’s tenure (his late father, Robert, was Australia’s first billionaire), Vasse Felix has acquired more land under vine – 341ha – than any other Margaret River producer.

The goal is not about being the biggest, asserts Holmes à Court. ‘With the backing of family resources’, it is to raise Margaret River’s profile and position Vasse Felix as the leader. Today the estate’s four vineyards account for 90% of production, up from 60% in 2007. Save for 27ha of young vines and land earmarked for future plantings, they were certified organic in 2020 and 2021.

Vasse Felix’s Home Vineyard, on prime gravelly clay soils in Wilyabrup, now incorporates Arlewood Estate’s former vineyard and the Gibraltar vineyard, planted in 2007. Principally for white wines and Idée Fixe (a new sparkling wine), the family planted two vineyards in Margaret River’s cooler southerly reaches of Wallcliffe and Karridale. Another further inland, on Carbunup’s richer soils, was planted for the entry-level Classics Collection and excellent-value, widely available Filius label.

For Willcock, having the right varieties and clones in the right place, and now organic cultivation, sets the pathway for purity of expression across Vasse Felix’s four-tier range (Icon, Premier, Filius and Classic Collection). ‘The quality of fruit, not me, refines it. It’s a winemaker redundancy policy,’ she jokes.

Vasse Felix verticals

By extension, you could say that Margaret River’s enviably consistent vintages are a viticulturist’s redundancy policy. Despite similar sourcing, winemaking, varietal make up and climate data across seven vintages, each wine in the vertical of three Heytesbury and five Tom Cullity bottles was different.

Willcock speculates that the climate data omits ‘feels like’ factors, such as humidity and wind chill. Surrounded by Geographe Bay, the Indian and Southern Oceans, cooling winds and humidity levels are key influences in Margaret River.

The vertical also illustrated another phenomenon: the distinction between odd and even years for reds. The odd years have more savouriness and plushness while, for Willcock, even years have ‘more pointed fruit and tannin concentration’.

It will be interesting to see if this continues over the next 50 years of Vasse Felix’s evolution.

Vasse Felix: Tom Cullity Cabernet blend and Heytesbury Chardonnay

Related content

Cullen: new releases and back vintages from this flagship Margaret River estate

Leeuwin Estate: producer profile and 12 wines tasted

Cape Mentelle: 50 years of Margaret River Cabernet

Argentina’s first female oenologist and owner of her own eponymous winery in Mendoza, Susana Balbo has been a passionate advocate for the country’s wines, heading up Wines of Argentina three times and earning the nickname ‘Queen of Torrontes’. She launched her first wine tourism project ‘Susana Balbo Unique Stays’ in February.

‘Mendoza is one of the first places people have in mind when they think about Argentina and wine tourism is becoming very important for Mendoza. Before the pandemic we had more than one million people visiting the wineries here. In our winery we jumped from 800 people visiting our winery 10 years ago to 30,000 people visiting the winery in 2019.’

‘I wanted to pour into the new hotel my experiences of travelling all over the world. Every suite is absolutely different – different colours and different textures – and stays include a visit to the winery and a tasting menu with wine pairing.’

‘I bought an amphibious plane – it’s the first one in Argentina – to do air safaris. Guests at the hotel can book the plane as far as they want to go. They can book a fishing experience in southern Argentina. Or we can go to Cafayate. Or go to Chile – fly over the mountains taking beautiful pictures.’

‘It’s important to me to keep travelling. You are able to taste wines from all over the world, find out what is happening, what is going on in the market…’

‘From this year we have organic wines from our own vineyard in Agrello and from next year Gualtallary. I believe in taking care of the environment. We need to work to look after the future for our kids and grandkids and organic farming is mandatory for that.’

‘We have low-alcohol and non-alcohol wines in development. Our first low-alcohol variety was Chenin Blanc; we want to do Torrontes and also Chardonnay. We need technology to do that – and I believe in technology. Anyone who tells you that non-alcoholic wines can be made without technology isn’t telling the truth.’

‘We are exploring a new region called San Pablo. It’s a very special place because it’s very high altitude – between 1,300m and 1,400m. Very extreme. Very interesting soil… and we are going to plant only white grapes: Torrontes, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay.’

‘Unfortunately Argentina is almost not perceived in the wine world – though I hope we can change that. We had a perception several years ago for the Malbec coming into the global market. But many wineries are becoming boring for consumers. We need to have more people researching and doing more innovative things.’

‘Sometimes winemakers don’t take the risk. And I don’t blame winemakers. I blame winery owners because the risk shouldn’t be on winemakers’ shoulders. It’s an economic decision and winemakers’ shoulders cannot support the investment decision. That is my advantage as a winemaker and owner, because I make my own decisions. I am at my own risk.’

‘I hope people will discover Cabernet from Argentina because it’s a hidden treasure. When you see the quality of Cabernet from Argentina against other countries, you need to pay at least twice to achieve the same quality. Consumers always go for the easy part of Argentina: Malbec. But Argentina is more than Malbec.’

‘My winery exports almost 40% of other wines besides Malbec; we export a lot of rosé, a lot of white. Nobody else in Argentina is doing that. Argentina is exporting 19% white wine, 81% red and I would want it to maybe export 65% red and 35% white and rosé. Some wineries are losing a business opportunity, not doing more things.’

Related articles

A drink with… Pascal Jolivet

A drink with… Daniele Cernilli

A drink with… Vanya Cullen

There used to be a standard cliché of Argentinian Malbec. Great with steak, obviously. Plenty of black and red plum fruit, usually with a baked or syrupy edge. Alcohol starting at 14% and edging up further to 16%. ‘I’ve tasted 16.5% – you cannot finish the glass, let alone the bottle,’ notes Patricio Tapia, author of the influential Desorchados guide to Argentinian, Chilean and Uruguayan wines.

‘Those wines were part of a commercial boom in Argentina,’ says Tapia. But while Argentinian Malbec has effectively become a ‘brand’ in its own right, now a staple feature on wine lists around the world, the wines have evolved.

‘The change has been apparent in Mendoza, the vineyard in the desert,’ he adds. ‘Producers are investing in the Uco Valley to the west, beyond Luján de Cuyo, chasing higher altitudes, wider diurnal temperature ranges and different soils (above all, limestone). Gualtallary, Altamira and La Consulta are the among the small sub-zones that are gaining international fame.’

New technology… old vines

In the vineyard viticulturists are both looking forward with new technology and looking back to the heritage of their old vines. ‘Careful work on row orientation and viticulture is bringing in fresher fruit,’ explains Tapia, which in turn leads to fresher, lower-alcohol wines.

Meanwhile in Luján de Cuyo, wineries are focusing on the benefits of their old vines. ‘The region’s oldest vines are often planted on their own roots, with great genetic diversity from centuries of massal selections and mutations, giving them a distinctive character,’ says Amanda Barnes, DWWA judge and author of The South America Wine Guide.

‘In general terms, however, Luján Malbecs are typically rounder and broader on the palate, with riper black- and red-fruit flavours than the fresher, floral style of Uco Valley, but more chiselled than the jammier wines of Maipú,’ she says.

There have also been changes in winemaking. ‘In the winery, there’s a welcome movement to reduce oak and replace new barrels with old oak and large foudres. Significantly, the new generation is investing in concrete,’ says Tapia. A symbol is Zuccardi’s Uco Valley winery, opened in 2016 and designed to reflect the surrounding the rocky landscape, which Sebastian Zuccardi has filled with concrete eggs and amphorae.

A sense of place

‘Malbec is our main red grape and the market knows Malbec. But I encourage consumers to keep on tasting Malbec from different origins in Argentina. It is very perfumed and fruity but also can be quite austere, still with a lot of character on the palate,’ adds Paz Levinson, DWWA Regional chair for Argentina 2022.

‘It is impressive how Malbec can be a transparent grape… it shows the place very well. Today we can identify different terroirs while tasting and have a deep understanding of the great wines Argentina is making,’ she adds.

Clearly there has never been a better time to explore Argentinian Malbec. The bottles below should offer some drinking inspiration. And the best part? Malbec from Argentina still makes a fantastic wine pairing with steak.

Best Malbec wine: Top Argentinian bottles

Related articles

• Premium Argentinian Malbec: panel tasting
• Exciting Argentinian wines under £25
• Best wines for a barbecue

For the first year in over a decade, I haven’t been based in South America due to the borders being tightly shut until November 2021.

That, however, didn’t slow my enthusiasm for tasting new releases – even if the shipping container chaos did! Nor did the pandemic slow down South America’s most creative winemakers, who continued to forge ahead with inexhaustible innovation.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2021

What has excited me most about South America’s wines over the last couple of years is the restless search for wines reflecting interesting terroirs, purer regional expression and greater freshness and transparency.

In my blind tasting of South American Chardonnay wines in June, the greater restraint of oak with more focus on purity of fruit and mineral backbone resonated strongly.

Some of the top wines came from notable producers in Chile’s Limarí Valley (Tabalí, Amelia) and Mendoza’s Uco Valley (Catena Zapata, Viña Cobos) which are, at least in my mind, the two grand crus of South American Chardonnay. But we are increasingly seeing excellent Chardonnay wines from southern Chile and Argentina, one of which makes my discovery list this year – for its great value as well as expression.

Excellent value and purity of place is also the case for the incredible new Tabalí Pai Pinot Noir and the new Cobos Vinculum Chardonnay. They both make my list too. Believe me, these wines are relative bargains for their quality.

Old vine varieties

Other bottles I can’t get enough of are wines made from the really old vines of Chile and Argentina.

I’ve long been a fan of the País wines coming from Chile, which are getting fresher and more elegant by the year (look out for Miguel Torres’ Millapoa, launching in mid-2022). But for my wines of 2021, I’m going with three other old-vine varieties that provided a delicious vinous kick for me last year: old-vine Semillon, Cinsault and Chenin Blanc.

I have also included some of the top scoring wines from our Premium Argentine Malbec Panel Tasting last summer, which reflect the hunt for distinctive mountain terroirs (Matervini) and fresh yet silky expressions of Gualtallary (Bousquet).

I have also picked a few gems from Uruguay from my ‘Beyond Tannat’ article, published in the September issue, a country which continues to excite me in its distinctive identity and constant quest to show a totally different face to South American wine.

This selection of wines are all currently on the market, but having touched down in my home turf again in November, I can tell you there’s a lot more to come. South America’s winemakers haven’t been twiddling their thumbs during the pandemic!

Amanda Barnes’ top 10 South American wines of 2021

The South America Wine Guide written by Amanda Barnes was published in 2021 and features in the Decanter pick of Best wine & spirits books for 2021

Related content:

South American trendsetters: five names to know

South American Cabernet Sauvignon: setting the standard

Chilean Pinot Noir Panel Tasting

Alistair Cooper MW, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW and Amanda Barnes tasted 87 wines with 4 Outstanding and 53 Highly Recommended.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit 100% Malbec priced at £15 and above in the UK, from any Argentinian region and vintage of their choice

Premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting scores

87 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 53

Recommended 26

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Faulty 0

Malbec continues to show why it is Argentina’s champion,’ said Amanda Barnes after this very encouraging panel tasting. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW agreed: ‘It was an excellent tasting that gave us a snapshot of the quality of premium Malbec at present, and illustrates why consumers are so seduced by it – especially those willing to pay a bit more.’

I was also impressed and, as noted by Vianna, it was pleasing to see that premium examples of Malbec are worth splashing out on. This should be welcome news to producers as Malbec remains Argentina’s undisputed star – and on this showing quite rightly so.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top premium Argentinian Malbec wines

The key development for Malbec over the past decade has been the meteoric rise and progression of regional typicity. This was excitingly apparent throughout the tasting.

While 15 years ago we talked largely about the Uco Valley and altitude plantings in a relatively generic manner, now the nuances between regions at altitude are clear to see.

Barnes explained: ‘Malbec expresses itself so well in so many different regions, from the brooding yet fresh Malbecs of Cafayate to the floral and silky wines of Altamira, it really is a great communicator of terroir.’

‘Unsurprisingly, the area that performed best was Gualtallary,’ said Vianna, ‘and I also found some beautiful wines from Paraje Altamira and Agrelo.’ I concur, and scored all but one of the 16 entries from Gualtallary and Paraje Altamira above 90 points. To illustrate the consistency of the tasting, Vianna scored two-thirds of all entries at 90 points or above.

I’d liked to have seen more entries from Salta (seven) and Patagonia (two). Both of these areas can produce superlative examples. I am a big admirer of the pure, vibrant expressions from Salta, which can exhibit vivacious, highly tuned palates that are like watching an ultra-high-definition television. Patagonia, meanwhile, can produce detailed, savoury styles with real structure and poise.

See all 87 premium Argentinian Malbec wines from the panel tasting

Argentina has experienced considerable vintage variation over the years, and here we had entries from every vintage between 2012 and 2020. ‘2019 is the star for me,’ commented Barnes, ‘although some of the 2018s were impressive too. I think the older vintages have potential for cellaring further, but it rather depends on the winemaking – overripe wines were losing their fruit far too quickly.’

Vianna had positive news for consumers and producers alike. ‘Recent vintages seemed to be kind to Malbec. Consumers can reach out for a bottle with great confidence without having to worry excessively about vintages.’ Excessive use of oak, which was a serious problem in the past, thankfully seems to be waning. Yet there were still some wines that unfortunately suffered from the heavy hand of clumsy oaking. There is certainly a place for judicious oaking with Malbec, yet it must frame the wine rather than dominate it.

This heartening tasting showed quite how far premium Malbec has come in a relatively short space of time. Consumers can confidently trade up to experience the wide array of styles, regionality and high quality that Argentinian Malbec clearly possesses.

Top-scoring wines from the premium Argentinian Malbec panel tasting

All wines scored 92 and above

The judges

Alistair Cooper MW is a wine consultant, writer and educator with a particular focus on South America. President of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile, he writes regularly for Decanter and many other publications, and is consultant wine buyer for United Cellars in Sydney.

Amanda Barnes is an awarded travel and wine writer specialising in South America’s wines and regions. A DWWA judge, she is the author of The South America Wine Guide print edition, now available via her website southamericawineguide.com.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, technical advisor, consultant and educator. After moving to the UK in 1989, he was wine director for some of the UK’s most prominent wine distributors, and in 2008 he became the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine.

Related content

Patagonia: The pioneers

Fine wines to know from Chile and Argentina

The story of Esk Valley and The Terraces label begins in 1933 when Robert Bird established Glenvale Winery & Cellars at Bay View in the north of Hawke’s Bay.

Producing mainly Port and Sherry wines, Bird built a successful business sourcing grapes from growers around the region as well as from his own site. This included a steep, north-facing, terraced vineyard that he planted in the 1940s.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores from an exclusive vertical of 12 vintages of Esk Valley’s The Terraces

However the yields and cost of production became prohibitive. So Bird decommissioned the vineyard and replanted it with pine trees.

When the third generation of the Bird family inherited the company, they started making small quantities of varietal wine using Esk Valley as a new brand name. With a market shifting into table wines, the potential for wine production grew.

In 1986 Sir George Fistonich (who founded Villa Maria in 1961) purchased the Glenvale land and assets after it fell into receivership. Sir George transformed the company away from fortified production into boutique table wine solely under the Esk Valley name and, in 1988, made the decision to resurrect the former terraced vineyard.

The pines were felled, the terraces reformed and, in 1989, the 1ha vineyard was planted to Malbec, Merlot and Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. With its north-facing aspect and mix of limestone, volcanic ash, clay and shell deposits, it is a unique site.

(In August, New Zealand’s largest contract winemaker, Indevin, announced it would acquire Villa Maria Estates. Villa Maria’s parent company, FFML, went into receivership in May 2021.)

Heipipi: the pinnacle of Esk Valley

While long known as just The Terraces, from the 2013 vintage (including on bottle labels) this organically managed, dry-farmed and low-yielding vineyard has been referred to as Heipipi.

This is the Te Reo Mãori name for the top of the hill where the vineyards lie, and where a Pa (hilltop fortress) sat atop the terraces for more than 400 years. The Terraces is now the name of this iconic single-vineyard cuvée, with its second-label – The Hillside – also sourced from Heipipi.

‘Heipipi is a grand amphitheatre and the pinnacle of what we do,’ says head winemaker Gordon Russell. ’It never fails to impress and showcase what a grand site it is. It’s also still in good health which allows us to maximise the benefit of what are now old vines.’

Russell joined the Villa Maria team in 1988 as a cellarhand, working with then chief winemaker Kym Milne MW. When an assistant winemaker position came up at Esk Valley (one of several brands in the Villa Maria portfolio), Russell moved to Hawke’s Bay in late 1989 to take up the role, under then head winemaker Grant Edmonds.

Russell was responsible for The Terraces from 1992, its second vintage, and became head of winemaking in 1993.

Making wine at Esk Valley presented Russell with a slew of new challenges. Not least of which was using concrete fermenters with no temperature control. But he soon learned this kind of treatment contributed subtle differences and complexities in each ferment.

‘The whole progression of winemaking for The Terraces aims to capture the grandeur and uniqueness of the site in bottle. When you taste the wine you are literally tasting the place,’ says Russell.

The Terraces: from grape to glass

The Terraces collection is something special. Tasting through 12 vintages reveals a consistent quality, timeline and rare look into the influences of vine age, vintage and climate from the very first 1991 vintage to the current 2018 release.

Fruit is hand harvested on one day, then sorted, destemmed and lightly crushed into a single open-topped concrete fermenter. Hand plunging gives full extraction of colour and tannin, and maturation is in new and one-year-old French barrels. It is racked as needed, then bottled after 17 to 22 months, depending on the vintage.

While the inaugural 1991 vintage was a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, from 2002 Russell dropped the Cabernet Sauvignon. He harvests the remaining three varieties (Malbec dominant since 2002) as a field blend and co-ferments them. Recent vintages make use of wild yeast and the wine is bottled without either fining or filtration.

The Terraces: 12 vintages of Esk Valley’s top Hawke’s Bay red

Related content

Get to know Central Otago Pinot Noir: good, better, best

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: 20 from 2020

Gimblett Gravels 2018: Assessing the vintage

‘For there to be a wine future with climate change, we will have to employ science and research to continue to drink these beautiful wines.’

These were the words of Dr Laura Catena, speaking at a seminar this week on the science behind terroir, a follow-up from the study released by the Catena Institute of Wine earlier in 2021 that showed measurable evidence for the existence of terroir in Argentina.

Catena founded the Institute and is also a fourth-generation winemaker at her family’s Bodega Catena Zapata winery.

As someone who has studied wine tasting at the institute of oenology in Bordeaux, and written a book about the subject of terroir in the region, I was predisposed to enjoy this research.

I spent pretty much every Friday afternoon for a year sniffing unidentified vials in an attempt to identify specific molecules or chemical compounds that you find in wine and then work out how to link them with grape, vintage or vineyard conditions.

The Catena Institute study – led by Fernando Buscema and Roy Urvieta, both of whom were speaking at the seminar – went much further than this; analysing the phenolic compounds in Malbec wine to fingerprint not only the growing season and climate but also how specific site and soil characteristics were expressed.

They were able, with a high degree of accuracy, to identify wines from 23 plots from 12 different highly-localised sites in Mendoza – and to correctly identify them independently of the vintage impact.

My role in the seminar was to simply to join the dots between the talks from a range of brilliant scientists, from Benjamin Bois to Kees Van Leeuwen and Patrica Piccoli – namely that the link between site and taste will help consumers seek out wines that suit them, and help draw attention to specific high-quality sites that might be otherwise overlooked.

If this research helps underline the link in the minds of consumers between terroir and excellence, then it will help create a demand for wines that reflect this.

I recommend everyone reads the original study, because you learn so much simply by breaking down and taking apart the methodology that they used.

It shows how knowing the characteristics of a specific site is useful not only for communication but for technical decisions during the growing season and winemaking.

And for the consumer, understanding that there are tangible reasons for wines to taste the way they do is a brilliant way to develop confidence as a taster.

Beyond this, the research just might help us become more aware of the risks of climate change.

If we can prove that certain sites are worth saving, or worth seeking out in wine regions globally – far beyond the same tried and tested French names – then it helps create an economic incentive to preserve these terroirs, giving us a far better chance of passing them on to the next generation.

But what also struck me, as we listened to the talks, was not only how important this research is, but what a terrible job many of us have done in convincing consumers that terroir is a way of not only understanding wine, but of making it accessible.

We’ve got so used to dismissing terroir as unprovable or overly complicated, that we have missed a huge opportunity to get new wine drinkers interested in what it can do to unlock wine’s secrets.

It made me think about natural wines, and how successfully they have connected to new consumers. Terroir wines should tick many of the same boxes in terms of what they’re about, such as authenticity, stripping away layers of marketing, and highlighting winemakers who care about the link between a place where vines grow and its expression in the glass in front of you.

And this makes it clearer why these sites need protecting. It’s in all of our interests to ensure that they are.

You may also like

Scientists reveal Malbec terroir secrets in Mendoza

Why Marquis de Terme is a Bordeaux estate on the rise

A Château Margaux tasting masterclass

Ornellaia in Tuscany, Sloan Estate in Napa, Pask Winery in Gimblett Gravels… is there a major winemaking region worldwide that doesn’t produce at least one icon ‘Bordeaux blend’?

Although the exact meaning can change, it’s a generally agreed shortcut for any red wine that is made from a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot, Cabernet Franc and other grapes that are typically planted in the Bordeaux region.

Scroll down to see Jane Anson’s tasting notes and scores for a selection of Bordeaux’s single-variety wines

The name has weight because Bordeaux has been making blended wines for centuries – even if for much of that time local winemakers had little choice but to give themselves a range of possible ingredients for their wine.

The oceanic climate of Bordeaux, its size, and its wide range of soil types still mean that a single grape variety has a tough time successfully delivering great wine year on year.

At the same time, you have always been able to find single variety wines if you look (or if you can afford it, in the case of the Merlot-focused Petrus and Le Pin). One option is also to seek out unusual vintages, such as Château Haut-Bailly 1996 with its 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

But the last few years have seen the category multiply across all varieties – and the vast majority are extremely affordable.

I’m pretty sure the reason for this is that we have seen Bordeaux embracing the complex realities of its terroirs, isolating and identifying different plots and treating them differently in terms of viticulture and cellar work.

It makes sense that it’s a short step from this identification to wanting to experiment with bottling the results individually.

The trend is also helped, inevitably, by more reliable ripening windows. Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, is increasingly used at 90%+ levels for the very top Médoc estates (such as Lafite Rothschild 2019 at 94% Cabernet Sauvignon).

You can also find 100% Cabernet Sauvignons helped by a warming climate that means the green pyrazine character is less common. Look out for Cuvée Marguerite Déjean from Château Moutte Blanc in Haut-Médoc, or Cuvée Eléonore from Château Vieille Dynastie in Lalande de Pomerol, or Hubert de Boüard Cabernet Sauvignon.

Easier ripening is also why you are starting to see 100% Malbecs, or even 100% Chardonnays bottled as Vin de France but grown on Bordeaux soils.

You’ll find excellent examples all over, but I have chosen to highlight three here from different branches of the Lurton family. The first has already created a number of headlines as the first dry white from Château Climens in Barsac.

Inevitably, as it is the only grape planted in the Climens soils, it’s 100% Sémillon, created by owner Bérénice Lurton and given the name Asphodèle – a flower that grows on limestone soils and symbolises rebirth.

Farmed biodynamically, as is all Climens wine, Asphodèle is unusual for a Bordeaux dry white in that it uses only natural yeasts, and is aged on the lees but unoaked, with grapes picked from young vines on the earliest ripening soils.

Its first vintage was in 2018, after a meeting between Bérénice Lurton and Loire legend Pascal Jolivet at a New York wine tasting.

Jolivet consulted on the conception and realisation of the first vintage, but going forward it is the Climens team who are entirely overseeing Asphodèle– and for me it already stands as one of the very best examples of this style of wine in Bordeaux.

Bérénice’s cousin, Jacques Lurton, introduced his own range of single variety wines a year later with the 2019 vintage, under the name Diane.

The idea, Lurton tells me, came to him when he was walking the vineyards after returning to Bordeaux full-time following his father Andre’s death aged 94, in May 2019. He came across a number of extremely old vines at the family estate of Château Bonnet.

‘The first one I really identified was a plot of old Sémillon vines – a grape that I loved in Australia also,’ says Lurton.

‘The plot was facing full south, and the vines were old, knarled, ugly… and made magnificent grapes. The older Sémillon is, the more it expresses its character.’

He has applied New World techniques to the winemaking – precision, low temperature fermentation, looking for an expression of the variety above all. I have tasted here the Sémillon and the Cabernet Sauvignon, but you can also find Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc.

A few miles from Château Bonnet is another Lurton property that is showcasing the potential of single variety Bordeaux. This is (another cousin) Pierre Lurton’s home estate of Château Marjosse, located on largely clay limestone soils of the Dordogne Valley.

Lurton grew up at the nearby Chateau Reynier with his father Dominique Lurton, and began renting a few plots from former owner General Georges Deleuze in 1990.

Lurton vinified his first year entirely by hand, and although the following year he was hired to run Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem, he kept slowly buying plots of vines at Château Marjosse as he was able to afford. He built a cellar in 2000, but only was able to buy the entire estate and château in 2013.

Since then, his focus on the potential of Marjosse has steadily increased. In 2018, he hired technical director Jean-Marc Domme, who had worked as trainee at Yquem in 2004, before working at Figeac, then in Banyuls, and then at Clos l’Eglise in Pomerol – before rejoining Lurton at Marjosse.

Together they have created a range of wines under the name Anthologie de Marjosse with a focus on the estate’s oldest vines, including Malbec, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle.

Today Marjosse is run by Pierre Lurton’s wife, Alexandra Forbes, who tells me, ‘When Pierre redid the winery, bringing in smaller vats, he was able to vinify these grapes separately for the first time in Marjosse’s history. We have now carried out a massal selection of our old Malbecs and plant a second plot.’

They also spoke with Aubert de Villaine [of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti fame] in Vosne-Romanée, and enlisted his help in sourcing Burgundian Chardonnay clones that were grafted onto rootstock that was previously Sauvignon Blanc.

And, in a perk of Lurton’s day job in terms of purchasing, the whites are fermented or aged in former Y d’Yquem barrels.

Tasting Bordeaux’s single-variety wines

I have tasted a few non-Lurton wines here, including Mathieu Chardonnier’s Château Marsau, a 100% Merlot from Francs Côtes de Bordeaux and a range from Invindia wines, with some excellent examples such as Full Metal Malbec (sadly not widely available). There are many other Bordeaux single-variety wines that are worth looking out for, including:

100% Merlot

Château La Gomerie, St-Emilion Grand Cru

Château La Voûte, St-Emilion Grand Cru

La Fleur de Gay, Pomerol

Le Plus de La Fleur de Boüard, Lalande de Pomerol

Château Marsau, Francs

Château Moutte Blanc, Margaux

Château Les Vimières, Margaux

100% Petit-Verdot

Château des Léotins, Cuvée Petit Verdot, Vignobles Lumeau

Petit Verdot de Château Belle-Vue, Haut-Médoc

Château Ségonzac Petit Verdot, Blaye

Château Haut Barade « 100% Petit Verdot » – Sichel- bordeaux

100% Malbec

Château Civrac, Super Malbec, Côtes de Bourg

Château Le Geai, Bordeaux

Château Magdeleine-Bouhou, cuvée ‘La Petite Magdeleine’, Blaye

Château Tire Pé, Les Malbecs, Bordeaux

Château Bonnange, Blaye

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Château Moulin de La Gache, Cuvée Saint Pierre, Blaye

Château Moutte Blanc, Cuvée Marguerite Déjean, Haut Médoc

Hubert de Boüard Cabernet Sauvignon

100% Cabernet Franc

Château Trottevieille ‘Les Vieilles Vignes’, St-Emilion Grand Cru

Hubert de Boüard Cabernet Franc

Château Fleur Haut Gaussens, La Bergeronnette, Bordeaux

100% Carménère

Château Le Geai, AOC Bordeaux

100% Syrah

Château Thieuley, Les Truffières Syrah

100% Chardonnay

Clos Dubreuil Chardonnay

Château Thieuley Chardonnay

Hubert de Boüard Chardonnay

Château la Grâce Dieu des Prieurs Chardonnay

See Jane Anson’s tasting notes and scores on Bordeaux’s single-variety wines

You may also like

Bordeaux 2020 wines: Our en primeur verdict 

Bordeaux vineyard prices in 2020: Trends to watch

How the Bordeaux 2008 first growths taste now

Defining terroir has long caused debate in the wine world, but a new study on Malbec in its Mendoza heartland in Argentina may shed new light on the issue for wine drinkers and producers.

Published in peer-reviewed journal Scientific Reports, the Malbec study ‘irrefutably proves the existence of terroir and its persistence across vintages’, according to the Catena Institute, which led the research.

Scientists analysed the chemical make-up of 201 Malbec wines from 23 different vineyard parcels across Mendoza in Argentina.

Wines from the 2016, 2017 and 2018 vintages were chosen for the Malbec terroir study, and researchers found they could identify tell-tale characteristics of different vineyard sites.

‘We were able to predict with 100% certainty the vintage of each wine of our study through chemical analysis,’ said Dr. Laura Catena, who founded the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995.

‘Mendoza is one of the few places in the world with strikingly different wine terroirs within short distances,’ said Dr Catena, who is also fourth-generation winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata.

‘For the first time, this study shows that the terroir effect can be chemically described from vintage to vintage in larger regions as well as in smaller parcelas (parcels),’

Out of the 23 vineyard parcels involved, 11 could be identified with 100% accuracy by analysing the wines.

The other 12 parcels were identified 83% of the time, said the Institute.

All the wines were produced under standardised conditions, and 12 geographical indications in Mendoza were represented among the 23 vineyard parcels – which were all under one hectare in size.

‘Our study gives credence to what the Burgundian Cistercian monks called ‘cru,’ simply defined by [wine writer] Hugh Johnson as “a homogeneous section of the vineyard whose wines year after year proved to have an identity of quality and flavour”,’ added Dr Catena.

‘Today, for the first time in the scientific literature, the French “cru” gets a Spanish name, “parcela”, because the wines studied at the Catena Institute of Wine were from Mendoza, Argentina.’

See the full study in Scientific Reports (a Nature Research Journal)

You might also like: 

Ten great value Malbec wines from Argentina

Tasting Catena’s flagship wines

‘Terroir…Is that a dog?’ Survey explores wine knowledge

Of the many different wine regions in Argentina, one stands out for its intensity and breadth of styles – an area where you’re just as likely to find a juicy, characterful Malbec as you are a subtly textured Pinot Noir, where vineyards climb up the slopes of glacier-capped mountains: the Uco Valley.

Connoisseurs will already be familiar with the name but it’s also one that shoppers ought to look out for in the supermarket aisles; a safe bet liable to amply exceed expectations. Among the most exciting wine regions in the world, the valley has redefined the international reputation of Argentinian fine wines. And the producers know it.

‘The Uco Valley is one of those regions that offers infinite variations of soil and climate types, allowing us to make very different kinds of wine, from intense, fleshy Malbecs to skinny, taut Pinot Noirs to vibrant Sauvignon Blancs,’ says Jorge Cabeza, senior winemaker at Salentein, one of the wineries that pioneered production from the valley. ‘The conditions here can’t be found anywhere else in the world.’

This isn’t an exaggeration. Run through the different wine producing valleys you’re familiar with in your mind. Which of them boasts 4,800m high mountains planted with carefully maintained vineyards? Where else does the sun shine so clearly through such crisp, hallucinatory skies?

A guide to the Uco Valley

Located 88km to the south of the City of Mendoza, in the foothills of the Andes, the Uco Valley spans the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos. This explains why wines from there are often labelled with one of these three place names.

Whereas in 2005 the valley had 16,800ha under vine, today it contains 28,600ha, representing 19% of all the vineyards in Mendoza. To put it another way: almost one in five bottles produced in Mendoza, comes from the valley.

Because the region is so large, in recent years producers have been carrying out detailed analysis to identify smaller Geographic Indications (GIs). Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes and San Pablo are some of the most famous, together with Gualtallary (for which approval is still pending), and all contain vineyards set at altitudes of between 900m and 1,500m. Irrigation water comes from the magnificent glaciers above, mainly channelled by the Tunuyán and Las Tunas rivers.

If it takes a unique region to make a unique wine, then the Uco Valley is certainly a place to go looking for them. Focused on growing high quality grapes, mainly red varieties, of which Malbec and Cabernet Franc are especially prominent, producers from the valley are also making excellent whites from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon vines.

The climate is continental: dry with plenty of sun, low rainfall, cold winters and warm summers with a large thermal range. The point of difference is the altitude, which defines the temperature (on average, it drops 1༠C every 150m higher up you go) and the cool climate has lured many producers away from warmer areas further down. All these different factors result in expressive, tense reds and vibrant whites.

The proximity and exposure to the Andes make for alluvial, rocky soils with widely varying mixtures of sand, limestone and clay in unique combinations that produce memorable wines.

Many wineries have thus commissioned in-depth studies to explore the nature and origins of the soils in which their vineyards are planted and are increasingly coming around to the idea that the Uco Valley requires a plant by plant approach. ‘The Uco Valley showed us the way in terms of familiarising ourselves with and interpreting the terroir,’ says Sebastián Zuccardi, a winemaker who grows grapes in several different locations in the valley for his wines.

Proof of the efficacy of all that study, not to mention the winemakers’ enthusiasm for the area, these 12 essential wines from the Uco Valley that I have selected will offer wine lovers a clearer picture of the potential that underlies every bottle produced there.

Twelve Uco Valley wines to try

See also:

Uco Valley sub-regions: Panel tasting results

Travel guide: Uco Valley

Pour yourself a glass of hearty, deep red and settle down to tackle this week’s Malbec crossword…

Instructions:

• Click a cell on the crossword grid, or click a clue
• Click twice on a cell to toggle between across and down
• The active cell is highlighted in blue
• Start typing in the word
• Hit enter when you are done typing in the word
• The word will turn green or red if you got it right or wrong
• You can use the tab and shift-tab keys to move around the crossword, and the arrow keys

Want to learn more?

• Try more wine crosswords here

• Try our wine quizzes

• Or download our learning app

As results for the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards near – due on 22 September on Decanter.com – a look back at the 2019 results highlights Pinot Noir’s improving quality and continued potential.

DWWA 2020 Regional Chairs Peter Richards MW and Paz Levinson look to Chile and Argentina for ever-improving quality and a continuous exploration of terroir. Where red varieties such as Malbec, Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive, there is still room for discovery, and Pinot Noir is just coming into its own.

Peter Richards MW, returning DWWA 2020 Regional Chair for Chile comments, ‘Chile is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic and exciting wine scenes on the planet right now. It’s almost impossible to keep pace with the burgeoning diversity and quality – that’s what makes it exciting to judge and catch up on at DWWA.’

‘Progress isn’t always linear, though’ continues Richards. ‘Pinot Noir is a grape that everyone got excited about before realising how hard it was to make really well. Only now, after a couple of decades of serious Pinot ambition, are we starting to see world class examples emerging. But how exciting they are…’

On Argentina, Paz Levinson, new DWWA 2020 Regional Chair for Argentina says, ‘What I love about Argentina is the unique character that the wines have. I love the creativity of the winemakers, their curiosity and endless explorations.

‘We don’t have a tradition that imposes a unique style, so we are quite free to explore what the terroirs of Argentina can give. Today we can identify different terroirs while tasting and have a deep understanding of the great wines Argentina is making, and at very competitive prices.’

Read more: DWWA 2020 Interview with Paz Levinson on Argentina

The 17th Decanter World Wine Awards judging month highlights

Ahead of judging at DWWA Levinson adds, ‘This is a very special year. It is not only challenging for the judges, but also for the wines. I’m looking forward to tasting all of the wines that have been stored over some extra months; this will give roundness and balance to many of them. For Argentina this will be beneficial.’

Results for the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards, including Pinot Noir from Chile and Argentina, will be available on Decanter.com from 22 September.

DWWA 2019: Top Pinot Noir wines from Argentina and Chile

Condeminal, Poncho Pampa Crianza, Tupungato, Argentina 2018

96 points, Gold

N/A UK #condeminal

Tobacco, earthy and floral nose with flavours of ripe red fruits, forest floor and resinous herbs. Fairly resolved for how young it is, with chalky tannins and refreshing acidity. Great development potential. Brilliant wine! Alc 13.5%

Undurraga, Trama, San Antonio, Chile 2016

96 points, Gold

POA Hallgarten Wines

Now this is special! herbs. The palate is perfectly pitched, boasting a core of vibrant energy, simultaneously crunchy and gently bittersweet. Food-friendly with great potential for development. Alc 13.5%

Casablanca, Nimbus Single Vineyard, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016

95 points, Gold

N/A UK www.casablancawinery.com

Seductive aromatics of wild herb, toasty warm spice and sappy red fruit lead to a palate dressed with elegant summer fruit and a pristine acidity. Alc 14%

Cono Sur, Ocio, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016

94 points, Silver

£42 Penistone Wine Cellars

Opulent and inviting with notes of coffee, raspberry compote and toast, while bittersweet red fruit and pepper shape the palate. Alc 13.9%

Apaltagua, Colección Limited Edition, San Antonio, Chile 2017

91 points, Silver

£17.95 (2016) Waddesdon Wines

Heady with opulent bramble, red rose floral notes and woodsmoke on the nose, spiced vanilla and plump dark cherry on the palate. Alc 14%

Atamisque, Serbal, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina 2018

91 points, Silver

£14.55-£15.90 Christopher Piper, Drinkmonger, Fortnum & Mason, Jaded Palates, Master of Malt, Speciality Drinks, Starmore Boss, Taste Argentina, Vegan Wine Box

Vibrant red fruits and red flowers jump out of the glass, followed by juicy sweet fruit on the palate – cranberry, pomegranate, raspberry and strawberry. Long, aciddriven finish. Very drinkable. Alc 13.5%

Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017

91 points, Silver

£16.80 ABS Wine Agencies

Shows plush, sappy redcurrant and raspberry aromatics, while the bittersweet red-fruit palate is framed with a bright, neat acidity. Alc 13.7%

Marks & Spencer, Tierra Y Hombre, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2018

91 points, Silver

£7 Marks & Spencer

Herbaceous and lifted, with leafy herb-tinged red fruit and resin leading to a palate filled with crunchy fruit and heady smoke. Alc 13.5%

Salentein, Finca La Pampa Lot Series Barrel Selected, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2017

91 points, Silver

N/A UK www.bodegasalentein.com

High-quality oak is apparent on the nose and is well integrated on the palate which explodes with cherries, strawberries and cranberries, followed by a long, sweet, vinous finish. Alc 13.5%

DWWA 2019: 90-point Pinot Noir from Argentina & Chile

Alto de Casablanca, Ritual, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

£14.50-£16 Elicite, Oddbins, Soho Wine Supply

Lifted and inviting aromatics of darktoned cherry and lifted florals, while the bright palate is brimming with smooth red berries. Alc 13.5%

Cono Sur, 20 Barrels El Triángulo Estate, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

£16 Ocado, Tesco

Heady with perfumed layers of bold, dark raspberry and lifted herbal aromas, while the savoury palate is laced with fresh, juicy fruit. Alc 14.3%

Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

£16-£18 Banstead Vintners, Cheers, Dulwich Vintners, Kingsgate Wines, The Oxford Wine Co

Delicate and restrained aromas of red cherry, woodsmoke and lush strawberry lead through to a crunchy, bittersweet summer-fruit palate. Alc 13.5%

Falernia, Gran Reserva, Elqui Valley, Chile 2017

90 points, Silver

N/A UK www.falernia.com

Sappy, with earthy redcurrant and hot cherry fruit on the nose, dried floral notes, while the smoky palate is laced with tense sour cherry. Alc 14%

Familia Schroeder, Saurus Select, Patagonia, Argentina 2018

90 points, Silver

£15.65-£19.99 Exel, Liquorice, Taurus Wines

Streaming with red fruits – strawberry, cherry and cranberry – with a focused acid backbone and crunchy texture. Very rich, tasty and enjoyable. Alc 14%

Morrisons, Single Vineyard, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2015

90 points, Silver

£10 Morrisons

Heady, lifted aromas of herbal red summer fruit lead on to a savoury palate that’s underpinned by fresh, cleansing acidity. Alc 13.5%

Ventisquero, Herú, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2016

90 points, Silver

£23.99 Soho Wine Supply

Sophisticated aromatics of baked cherry and pepper, softly spiced palate with bright high-toned raspberry. Alc 13.5%

See all results from DWWA 2019

Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Uruguayan Tannat – if you think that’s all there is to South American wine, read on. At first sight, most of the blends here are centred on these varieties, but closer inspection reveals a more complex and exciting picture.

The quality of red blends is undeniable, particularly in Argentina and Chile, where respectively 81% and 75% of the wines I tasted rated Highly Recommended or better. I don’t consider myself a generous scorer, so that sets an impressive standard. Of the small sample of Uruguayan wines, 40% scored at least Highly Recommended.

The top four wines are outstanding Bordeaux blends from leading producers in Argentina and Chile. Far from being mere imitations of their French counterparts, however, they all reflect in different ways the unique character of their origins.

In each country, at least one other variety has emerged as a successful partner to the classic blends. Cabernet Franc features in most of my preferred Argentinian blends; it reins in the roundness of Malbec and adds precision and definition to its structure. In Chile, Syrah shows up in three of the chosen wines, combining successfully not only with deep-rooted Cabernet Sauvignon but perhaps more interestingly with Carmenère, where it adds fruit and volume to the blend. In Uruguay, Merlot made the winning combinations, bringing flesh and mid-palate fruit to the more savoury Tannat.

Traditional varieties such as Bonarda in Argentina and Cinsault in Chile from revived old vineyards deliver fantastic value; expect to see more of these styles emerging. I found adventurous Uruguayan blends of Tannat with Portuguese Sousão or Spanish Tempranillo. And there are signs that Rhône varieties have started to succeed in Argentina: watch this space.

When it comes to origins, Chilean blends show great geographical diversity, here represented in six different valleys from the far-north Limarí to Itata in the south; and Uruguay reveals the promise of emerging regions beyond traditional Canelones and Montevideo. In Argentina, on the other hand, mirroring the country’s vineyard distribution, the chosen wines concentrate around Mendoza, in particular the premium regions of Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo.

All of the progress of the last two decades – the pioneers, the drive towards quality, the search for cooler regions and a more hands-off approach in the winery with fresher fruit and less oak – has led to this moment. These 30 wines show the quality, style and diversity that South America can offer, and often at excellent value for money. It’s an exciting time to look again at South American red blends.

Marina Gayan MW is Argentina’s first and only Master of Wine. Now based in Buenos Aires, she works as a wine trade consultant, private client advisor and educator.

Marina Gayan MW’s top 30 South American red blends

See also: 45 Bordeaux blends from around the world

Bordeaux may be a Merlot-Cabernet-centric region, but a smattering of other red varieties subsist alongside. Look at the figures: Merlot accounts for 66% of the region’s red plantings, Cabernet Sauvignon 22% and Cabernet Franc 9%, leaving a meagre 3% of ‘other red varieties’. For these read: Carmenère, Malbec and Petit Verdot. While not exactly household names – though still officially authorised and very much part of the region’s DNA – these three secondary varieties are belatedly stirring interest as growers rediscover their potential as a single variety or as a component in a blend.

All three varieties were very much in evidence in 18th- and 19th-century Bordeaux. Carmenère, a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Gros Cabernet, originated in the Gironde and was widely planted in the Médoc. Malbec (or Côt), originally from Cahors, was planted in Bordeaux from the mid-18^th century on. History relates it was cultivated at Château de Pressac in St-Emilion around 1747, hence the local name for Malbec, Pressac or Noir de Pressac, which still holds today.

Petit Verdot was initially thought to have come from the Gironde, but ampelographic (the field of botany concerned with the identification and classification of vines) and genetic research suggests provenance in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. How it settled in the Gironde is less clear, but its 19th-century reputation was definitively tied to Bordeaux and in particular the Médoc, which today still maintains over half the region’s plantings.

The total extent of the surface area for all three by the mid-19th century is unrecorded, but it was clearly significant: Carmenère and Petit Verdot used in Médoc blends, and Malbec gradually dominating on the Right Bank. Until the advent of phylloxera (in the late 1860s and the 1870s), for instance, Malbec represented 80% of plantings in the Côtes de Bourg.

Renewed interest

It was phylloxera that reduced the presence of all three of these secondary varieties in Bordeaux, and the 1956 frost further decimated Malbec. Vines were destroyed and growers were averse to replanting them due to the difficulties they pose in cultivation. Carmenère is low-fruiting and susceptible to coulure (poor fruit set) so has irregular yields. Petit Verdot is naturally productive and has shoots and stems that break easily, so it needs plenty of work and attention in the vineyard; like Carmenère, it is also late-ripening. Malbec initially proved difficult when grafted on to American rootstock, is over-productive and sensitive to coulure.

The nadir of this was seen in the CIVB (Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux) figures for 2000, which show total plantings in the region of just 4ha Carmenère, 375ha Petit Verdot and 966ha Malbec. These have since increased respectively to 56ha, 1,093ha and 1,791ha in 2018, so clearly growers have found motivation to plant again. Global warming has helped considerably in their newfound popularity, as have improved viticultural techniques and new clones and rootstocks.

Carmenère is still the most marginal of the three. Its low yields and difficulty in ripening fully make it the least attractive. ‘It has the same growing cycle as Cabernet Sauvignon up to véraison (the period when berries begin to ripen), but from then on the maturity is protracted so it stays vegetal much longer,’ explains Christophe Capdeville, general manager of Margaux second growth Château Brane-Cantenac. The estate replanted the variety in 2007 but it has only been used in the grand vin in 2011, 2015 and 2016, and then up to a maximum of 1% of the blend.

As a single variety it lacks distinction, but growers who cultivate Carmenère agree that if fully ripe it can add a little pep to a blend. ‘It offers an exotic, spicy note,’ says Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, manager of Pauillac fifth growth Château Clerc Milon. The estate has an old parcel that was planted in 1947. Back at Château Brane-Cantenac, Capdeville appreciates ‘the silky tannins, which add something to the texture of the palate’. Plantings of Carmenère remain discreet and mainly Left Bank-oriented but there are exceptions. Châteaux de Fonbel and de Pressac in St-Emilion cultivate a little, as does Château de Bouillerot in the Entre-Deux-Mers.

Positive influences

The other Médoc-leaning variety is Petit Verdot. Its attributes include colour, acidity, sugar potential and tannin. It is also resistant to downy mildew, a positive factor in 2018. On the negative side, it is naturally high-yielding, awkward to cultivate, late-ripening and sensitive to powdery mildew and rot. In the past this would have been a turn-off for growers, but improved viticultural practices and global warming now make the difficulties surmountable.

Low yields are compulsory, with producers today aware that 40hl/ha is the ceiling. ‘The key to quality is the yield,’ says Sabrina Pernet, technical director at Margaux third growth Château Palmer. Each year the Petit Verdot is reduced down to 25-35hl/ha via an extensive green harvest, a procedure introduced in the early part of the new millennium.

Other factors that have assisted with quality are the use of less vigorous rootstocks, planting on earlier-ripening sites with sufficient moisture to avoid stress, the use of better vine material and, of course, climate. The new millennium has generally seen warm to hot summers and clement weather during the harvesting period. ‘The vegetal element in Petit Verdot is no longer a problem,’ says Thierry Bos of Château de Bouillerot.

For most producers Petit Verdot is again seen as a blending component. It can enhance colour, power, density of structure and freshness, but is considered a little too rustic to use in large doses. ‘It’s a complementary grape variety that can reduce elegance if not handled carefully,’ confirms Philippe Bascaules, managing director of Château Margaux.

Contradicting this rule, Patrice de Bortoli of Château Moutte Blanc in Macau, Médoc, has been making the 100% Petit Verdot Moisin since 1994. It is indeed muscular but ages well. He has been joined by the Dubourdieu family of Château Reynon in Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. This year they released a single-variety wine, Hommage à Denis Dubourdieu 2018, in memory of the late oenologist-winemaker and his appreciation of the variety.

Wines for today Malbec used to be planted throughout Bordeaux but eventually found its home on the Right Bank and in the Entre-Deux-Mers, where it can still be found today. With its large berries and bunches, it too can be high-yielding, so volume needs to be carefully managed. At the same time, it is also susceptible to coulure and rot. But as Bos points out: ‘It adapts well to clay-limestone soils and can deliver the sort of fresh, fruit-driven wines demanded by today’s market.’

At a glance:Carmenère, Malbec & Petit Verdot

Carmenère

Total plantings: 56ha

Flavour profile: Green bean if underripe; spice, exotic notes

Characteristics: Late-ripening, irregular production, low acidity, light but fine tannins

Application: Blends

Malbec

Total plantings: 1,791ha

Flavour profile: Fruity (dark fruit), floral

Characteristics: Productive, good colour and acidity, zesty fruit, structured

Application: Single variety, blends

Petit Verdot

Total plantings: 1,093ha

Flavour profile: Dark fruit, floral (violet), spice, pepper

Characteristics: Late-ripening, productive, deep colour, tannic power/structure, good acidity

Application: Blends, single variety

The Côtes de Bourg is once again at the forefront of promoting the variety. At the beginning of the new millennium just 5% of the appellation was planted to Malbec, but a number of internal initiatives have helped the figure rise to 10% or about 400ha. The grape variety can be found in blends or labelled as a single variety; the Côtes de Bourg a rare sub-regional or communal appellation where this is permitted. A regional joint venture with a vine nursery will also see two new qualitative clones available from 2021.

Plantings of Malbec in Bordeaux are a mix of old vine material, massal selection (propagating cuttings from existing vines, with the aim of preserving clonal diversity and quality) from the old vines and two or three commercial clones. Questioning the qualitative nature of the latter, David Barrault of Château Tire Pé in the Entre-Deux-Mers sourced his massal selection Malbec from old vines in Cahors when he planted the variety in 2002. The clay-limestone soils, planting density of 5,000 vines per hectare and yields of 40-50hl/ha have produced a benchmark fresh, floral style.

With the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité) deliberating on the use of seven other grape varieties in Bordeaux (some distinctly non-Bordeaux), Barrault has already jumped the gun by planting two old and forgotten Bordeaux varieties, Castets and Mancin. Peppery and fresh with relatively low alcohol, they too could offer another perspective for the region.

The Merlot-Cabernet hegemony will take some shifting, but for savvy Bordeaux producers looking for an alternative expression, delving into the old grape varieties of the past could be the way to go.

Lawther’s pick: Bordeaux with a different accent

See also: What does Petit Verdot add to a wine? Ask Decanter 

Argentina’s reputation for high quality Malbec can sometimes draw the focus from the diverse set of wines being produced in the country.

Variety of terrain, from floodplains to mountain heights, has allowed a wide range of other exciting grapes to flourish, and more and more quality examples are available reasonable prices.

Malbec is represented below – how could it not be? – but there are also wines from several other varieties to seek out, including Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris and Torroentes. All the wines were tasted by Decanter‘s expert tasting team.

Exciting Argentinian wines to seek out

You might also like:

South American Chardonnay under £20

Affordable Rioja: Panel tasting results

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc under £25

The headquarters of Malbec and Argentina’s wine industry, Luján de Cuyo may not be garnering the same buzz as emerging wine regions in the Uco Valley and Patagonia, but it is very much the heart and mind of Argentina’s wine industry – and it has at its feet some of the oldest vines in the country.

When you pull into Luján de Cuyo, driving 20 minutes south from Mendoza city, an enormous metal sculpture of a Malbec leaf announces that you’ve arrived at the tierra de Malbec. While arguably all of Argentina’s wine regions can claim to be a ‘land of Malbec’, no region has quite as big a stake to this claim as Luján – which has more than 15,500ha under vine, more than half of it Malbec. Luján alone has more Malbec vines than all of France.

Claiming almost a fifth of all of Argentina’s Malbec vineyards, it was here in Luján that the story of Argentina’s famed Malbec began. When Michel Aimé Pouget first planted Malbec in 1853, in what is now a paved-over block in Mendoza city centre, it changed the landscape of Argentinian wine from a sea of Criolla (the ‘founding’ varieties originally brought in by Spanish colonists) to a land of exotic French and European grapes.

Back then, Malbec was simply known as the cepa francesca (‘French grape’). Plantings proliferated southwards, and Malbec adapted particularly well to the rocky clay soils, cooling mountain influence and abundant water supply in Luján de Cuyo, which blossomed into Argentina’s premier wine region.

The National Agricultural Technology Institute (INTA) set up its experimental headquarters here, with a vineyard of more than 700 grape varieties (the third-largest collection in the Americas). When Argentina’s quality revolution happened in the late 20th century, major producers chose to establish premium wineries in Luján de Cuyo; today, a drive down Ruta 7 feels like you’re on the millionaires’ mile of Argentinian wine, passing signs for Catena Zapata, Susana Balbo, Norton, Cheval des Andes and Paul Hobbs’ Viña Cobos.

Luján de Cuyo at a glance

Planted area 15,543ha (more than 50% Malbec)

Notable sub-regions Agrelo, Las Compuertas, Perdriel, Vistalba

Altitude 690m-1,300m above sea level

Winkler index III-V (higher bands of standardised growing degree-days)

More than a number

But the most exciting aspect of Luján de Cuyo for me is the age of the vineyards. Though terroir hunters are travelling further and further afield from the classic wine regions of Argentina, it is extremely difficult to beat the wisdom and character of these old vines in Luján de Cuyo.

‘Old vines have deeper roots and are much more balanced,’ says Mendel winemaker Roberto de la Mota, who produces Malbec, Petit Verdot and Chenin Blanc in Luján, some from vines planted more than a century ago. ‘Old vines give you far more varietal typicity and concentration, and they suffer a lot less than new vines.’

In the increasingly erratic weather patterns of recent vintages (from rainy 2016, in which double the annual average fell, to drought and heat spikes this year), the old vines are far more adept at producing quality fruit no matter the conditions.

Preserving these old vines has become a mission for many winemakers, as they are especially at risk from creeping urbanisation – losing ground to private neighbourhoods and housing for Mendoza’s growing population.

‘When we bought our old vineyard in Las Compuertas [planted in 1910], the same family had been living there for three generations – and we believe they are just as important to the terroir,’ says winemaker Héctor Durigutti over a glass of old-vine Criolla, which he makes with the family members who still live there. ‘All the old vines in Vistalba and Las Compuertas are disappearing because people want to build houses here. We want to save these old vines and historic wine regions from disappearing.’

His brother Pablo, also a winemaker, chips in: ‘There is a great concentration happening in Argentina’s wine industry. As we lose small growers we are losing these old vines – and with it, we are losing our identity.’

Gabriela Furlotti found a way to preserve her grandmother’s old block of Malbec, planted in 1916, by combining tourism with winemaking. At her luxury vineyard B&B, Finca Adalgisa, guests can watch the historic block being ploughed by horse while they sit at the poolside, glass of chilled wine in hand.

‘It was the only way I could see to save this old vineyard, because producing a commercial wine from a hectare or two of old Malbec isn’t economically viable,’ Furlotti explains. ‘If you walk through my vineyard you’ll find not only Malbec, but also a bit of Barbera, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc… and they all go into the blend – some bunches riper than others! This natural diversity of the old vines gives the wines unique personalities.’

Developing styles

The region’s oldest vines are often planted on their own roots, with great genetic diversity from centuries of massal selections and mutations, giving them a distinctive character. In general terms, however, Luján Malbecs are typically rounder and broader on the palate, with riper black- and red-fruit flavours than the fresher, floral style of Uco Valley, but more chiselled than the jammier wines of Maipú.

Pitted against some of the racier Malbecs from higher-altitude Uco Valley and the Calchaquí valleys in northern Argentina, Luján can be seen as old-school in style, with sweet fruit and generous alcohol. This more approachable nature of the region’s wines gave them wide appeal in the early 2000s, helping to switch the international markets on to Malbec. But as winemaking styles and tastes have evolved, winemakers are keen to show the fresher side of Luján too.

‘Luján was always considered a region of very mature fruit, sweet tannins and high alcohol, but this is due to the typically late harvest dates back then. If you pick earlier, you get fresh red fruit, violet, spice, herbaceous and tea-leaf notes, which are typical of Luján,’ says Santiago Mayorga, winemaker at Cadus. He is at the forefront of a movement of young winemakers refocusing their attentions on Luján de Cuyo’s old vines. ‘Rescuing these old vines of Luján is important, as they achieve a great balance and freshness naturally.’

Magic ingredient

Another dimension to the wines of Luján is the tendency to blend varieties. The red blends here draw on the diversity of varieties, soils and microclimates in the region, from the cooler temperatures and stonier soils of Agrelo to the heavier clays and warmth of Medrano. With more than 500 growers in Luján, winemakers have the opportunity to compile multi-dimensional blends that represent the complexity of Luján itself.

Some of the most exciting blending partners for Malbec in Luján include Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Tannat – each of which adds a fresher lift of acidity and floral or herbaceous notes, as well as a spine of fine tannins in the case of the latter two. Petit Verdot is also an excellent single-varietal wine in the region, and Luján is prime territory for Cabernet Sauvignon too.

‘Agrelo in Luján has been one of the most distinguished regions for producing Cabernet Sauvignon for over 25 years,’ says Argentina’s first female winemaker, Susana Balbo. ‘When Argentina started to become known for high quality in the mid-1990s, it was because our Cabernet Sauvignon wines dazzled people with their mature tannins and profound aromas of cassis, and those wines were coming from here in Luján.’

While Malbec might still be its calling card, Luján de Cuyo is a hive for other engaging varieties – and most of all, a precious trove of old vines and traditions worth treasuring.

Luján de Cuyo: 10 names to know

Bodega Furlotti

Gabriela Furlotti is the fourth generation of a wine family that was a major grower in the 20th century. Today she retains a couple of small parcels of old vines and makes authentic wines, including Finca Adalgisa, with winemaker Carmelo Patti.

Chakana

There are a few biodynamic producers in Luján (notably Alpamanta and Altos Las Hormigas), and Chakana is one of the leading lights. Young winemaker Gabriel Bloise has brought a fresh, youthful style to the portfolio.

Durigutti

Brothers Pablo and Héctor Durigutti’s export-focused winery produces bold red wines, but what really stands out is their Proyecto Las Compuertas label, featuring fresh, vibrant wines from (predominantly) old-vine Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Criolla, Montepulciano and Charbono.

Malbec de Angeles

Guillermo Barbier makes wines from the fruit of his family vineyard in Vistalba, planted in 1924. Barbier is one of the guardian angels of Mendoza’s wine heritage, and his wines have the concentration and character that only old vines can produce.

Mendel

Roberto de la Mota comes from a winemaking family and is one of Luján’s most experienced winemakers. His personal winery is Mendel, founded in Mayor Drummond in 2002, with an impressive portfolio of elegant red blends and exciting old-vine whites.

Norton

Established by a British rail engineer in 1895, Norton is one of the biggest regional producers. Its wide range of wines includes the top-value Perdriel brand. Head winemaker David Bonomi is making the wines fresher and brighter.

Pulenta Estate

The Pulenta brothers Eduardo and Hugo started their Agrelo project as a premium winery in 2002, following the family’s sale of Trapiche a couple of years before. Polished red wines from Luján and beyond are the calling card, including their top Cabernet Franc.

Susana Balbo Wines

Known as the Queen of Torrontés, Susana Balbo made her name in Salta but is far more focused on Luján and the Uco Valley today. Her Luján red wines are typically bold in character, with the impressive ability to age beyond a decade, and Cabernet is her forte.

Terrazas de los Andes

A landmark project since 1996 as the fine wine outpost of Moët Hennessy in Argentina. Known for its plush, polished style and its famous collaboration with St-Emilion’s Château Cheval Blanc, making the complex Cheval des Andes wine from its 1929 Malbec vineyard.

Viña Cobos

Bold reds and full-bodied Chardonnays are the trademark of California’s Paul Hobbs, whose Luján-based winery focuses on old vines in the region and new vines in the Uco Valley. Accomplished wines that helped define modern Luján in the early 2000s.

Barnes’ mixed dozen: best of Luján de Cuyo

Long before Argentina was producing wine, Malbec grapes were being used to produce strong, structured, intensely fruited wines from their original home of Cahors in south-west France.

Located in Occitania, halfway between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea – with influences from both, Cahors is a region of varying altitudes in the foothills of the Massif Central.

Scroll down for the top 20 Cahors wines

Just over two hours’ drive east of Bordeaux, the area is defined by two distinct landscapes and the presence of the Lot River.

One is a limestone plateau situated 250-350m above sea level and the other features low-lying terraces in the valley comprising alluvial deposits and closer to the River Lot which was for centuries used as means of transporting barrels to Bordeaux.

Due to the diversity of vineyard soils, which range in fertility and are affected varyingly by the weather, the styles of Cahors wines can also differ from light and fruity to full-bodied and deeply concentrated.

Cahors is France’s largest producer of Malbec grapes with 4,000ha under vine.

History

By the 13th century Cahors was one of the biggest and most important cities in France and its wines were already famous.

Bottles were said to have been served at the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry Plantagenet in 1152 and it had found fans in the forms of Kings, Russian Czars and Popes, specifically John XXII himself a native of Cahors.

The region produced at least six times more wine than it does today and exported it across the globe.

The wines were noted for their colour, described in the 19th century as ‘the black wines of Cahors’ and full-bodied, concentrated style.

See all 40 Cahors wine tasting notes and scores

A series of natural catastrophes – pests and frost, which wiped out the cultivation of vines in the region in the 19th century and again in 1956 respectively, as well as wars and market changes meant Cahors lost favour on the world wine stage and entered a period of neglect.

Subsequent plantings however formed the foundation for the success of Cahors wines to come.

Today

In 1971, Cahors was officially designated as an Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC). Producers are only allowed to use the labelling term for their red wines, which must be made with a minimum of 70% Malbec.

White and rosés are sold as ‘Vin de Pays du Lot’.

In the 80s and 90s the region benefited from considerable inward investment, as well as new clonal and graft material, and saw producers focus less on volume production and more and more on quality, especially given the success of Malbec in Argentina.

This led to an improvement in viticultural practices including hand-harvesting as well as softer extractions, longer maturations and better-quality French oak.

Emphasis on terroir has also led to a shift in quality with scientific approaches taken to understand different soils and choosing the optimum time to harvest.

Vineyards planted at higher altitudes are considered better able to produce fresher wines with more aromatics and higher acidities.

While many wines are made using 100% Malbec, also known locally as Auxerrois or Côt, it is sometimes blended with a proportion of Merlot for juiciness and plumpness and/or Tannat to add structure and tannin.

Cahors Malbecs tend to have more structure and firmer tannins than their Argentinian counterparts. They have an identifiable inky dark colour and strong aromatics, peppery and dry whereas South American versions are on the whole lighter, vibrant and fruit-forward with a succulent, velvet-soft texture.

At a glance

Total area: 21,700 ha

Total area under vine: 4,500 ha

Annual production: 20 million bottles

Organic farming: 17% (versus less than 10% on average in France)

Production: 80% winemakers, 20% co-operatives

Market: 70% domestic consumption

The tasting

The wines in the tasting demonstrated the range of flavours that can be found in Cahors ranging from sweet, confected and jammy to savoury and meaty to softer, more refined and fresh.

A spectrum of fruits can also be tasted comprising strawberries, raspberries and red cherries to dark plums, damsons blackcurrants and blackberries and, with a bit of age, tobacco, white spice, leather and dark chocolate.

Very few were austere or particularly astringent something they can be. Many have benefited from ageing, with the top wines coming from the 2016 and 2017 vintages which were showing well.

General vintage quality is similar to that of Bordeaux, despite the region being cooler, but wines typically have more concentration, so you’d expect the 2016s to be scoring highly.

While many are drinking well now, and worthy of opening with a nice meal among friends (lean cuts of meat, cassoulet, roast duck and hard cheese), most will benefit from further ageing (around five years) so it’s worth buying a few for both immediate and long-term drinking pleasure.

See the top scoring Cahors wines

You may also like

Andrew Jefford’s top 25 premium Argentinian MalbecsLanguedoc-Roussillon v Southern Rhône: Top wines comparedExclusive tasting of Jurançon’s cult Clos JolietteTop Pays d’Oc wines to try

Bottles produced: 11,400

Grapes: 100% Malbec

Yield: N/A

Alcohol: 14%

Format: 6L

Drink from/to: 2015-2025

Price UK: £700 (6l bottle)

Price US: $800 (6l bottle)

The vintage: The 2010 vintage in Mendoza was noted for its low yields and high quality. A cold spring delayed bud break and led to uneven flowering, but while yields at Catena Zapata were down 20-25% overall, the quality and concentration of fruit across the board more than made up for this. ‘It is hard to complain about the low yields when you taste and see the concentration and richness of the wines in the tanks and barrels,’ noted the winery in its post-harvest report.

The wine: This iconic Mendoza Malbec comes from two of Catena Zapata’s historic Malbec vineyards Adrianna and Nicasia. Fruit from the old vines of these two high-altitude sites is hand-harvested and fermented ‘wild’ for 30-32 days in new French oak barrels (225-500 litre); 80% is destemmed, and the rest goes in whole cluster. The wine matures in barrel for 24 months before blending and bottling, unfined and unfiltered. The wine is bright, dense and fruit-packed with remarkable texture and complexity.

My top 25: premium Argentinian Malbec Andrew Jefford

South America’s next icons Alistair Cooper MW

Save when you subscribe to Decanter

Old vines: the gift of time Tim Atkin MW

Patagonia: the new frontier Amanda Barnes

The Decanter interview: Alejandro Sejanovich Sorrel Moseley-Williams

The new Carmenère Patricio Tapia

A beginner’s guide to Brazil: Dirceu Vianna Junior MW

The Douro: an evolution Sarah Ahmed

Travel shock: myth or reality Jonas Tofterup MW

Steven Spurrier’s Fine Wine World

Panel tasting: South American whites – beyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc 89 wines tasted

Panel tasting: Chilean Pinot Noir 61 wines tasted

Expert’s choice: Uruguayan Tannat Sarah Jane Evans MW

The Decanter travel guide: Montevideo & Canelones Amanda Barnes

My Rio de Janeiro Georgia Grimond

Wine Legend Stephen Brook

Today’s southern hemisphere is full of exciting combinations of variety and location for the wine lover to enjoy.

Thirty years ago, that wasn’t true. I’m not going to list those combinations (you’ll each have your own favourites) but want to underline that it is so – and that, in being so, it means we have reached base camp for the exploration of southern hemisphere wine terroirs over the next several hundred years. Terroir wine is not the only sort of wine, but it’s the sort which provides more profound pleasure than any other. It’s born when an ideally adapted grape variety or set of varieties is planted in a distinguished site.

Scroll down for Andrew Jefford’s top 25 premium Argentinian Malbecs

My own favourite combination of those identified so far is Malbec grown in high- altitude sites in the Andes, principally – though not exclusively – in Argentina. Why? Three reasons. These wines’ singular drama is the first. Their dark, lustrous vivacity has a shocking beauty. They imitate nothing. The best constitute striking new landmarks in the world’s wine landscape.

Structure is the second. If southern hemisphere red wines share a failing, it’s that their fruit hasn’t yet been able to deliver the structural authority of the greatest red wines of Bordeaux, of Tuscany, of Piedmont, of the Rhône. This has nothing to do with oak, and everything to do with what is in the grape skins, how it’s expressed, and how it fuses with the fruit. Successful examples of Malbec from Mendoza and Salta are, for me, among the best-structured of all southern hemisphere reds, even when they don’t contain admixtures of Cabernet. Gutsiness and earthiness can be a precious part of the Malbec profile here. High-grown Andean Malbec skins are evidently special.

Purity – the key 21st-century wine-world desideratum – is the third attribute. Not every Malbec will set nostrils twitching, but the best truly do have a ravishing floral aromatic sweetness and lift: another hallmark of world- class reds. Those who love to chase ‘mineral’ flavours can do so here, along with a saline note. Above all, though, the fruit quality of the best of these wines – lyrical, singing, perfumed, allusive and multi-faceted – rewards in-depth scrutiny over the length of the bottle.

More to come

There are failings. Too many Argentinian reds of all sorts are bottled in a reduced state: a crime against Malbec (since its aromatic charm should be a compelling attraction), and never acceptable for any finished wine. Decanter readers know to double-decant; not so any innocent drinkers, who will be dismayed at first sniff. Lavish oak, too, is a crutch which great Malbec never needs, and wherever it’s palpable, my personal view is that the oak has been overdone – though I admit that there are drinkers who still relish the easy sweetness of ‘an oaky note’. It can be found anywhere, though. Let’s move on.

The final risk comes with this solar territory: too much raisiny sweetness from overripeness. It’s tempting to say that the move to ever-higher locations might resolve this, but things aren’t that simple: age of vines, soil structure and composition, viticulture, water relations and harvest decisions are all crucial. While the majority of our top wines in this selection do indeed grow on the roof of the wine world (like those from Calchaquí and from Gualtallary in Uco Valley), there are also some from older established zones close to the city of Mendoza itself (notably Luján de Cuyo).

Argentina’s leading wine creators clearly understand what lies at their fingertips, and are dreaming of doing better still. If you want to enjoy grand, authoritative, gastronomic red wine from distinguished southern hemisphere sites, follow their efforts.

Andrew Jefford is a contributing editor to Decanter and one of our three Decanter World Wine Awards Co-Chairs

See Andrew Jefford’s top 25 premium Argentinian Malbecs

You may also like

Malbec across the AndesPremium South American red blends: Panel tasting resultsArgentina’s mountain wines: Calchaquí Valley redsTop South American Cabernet Franc wines: Panel tasting results

From the air, the Río Negro Valley looks like a narrow, misshapen strip of intense green, a fierce contrast to the thousands of square kilometres of desert that surround it. An oasis in the middle of the arid Argentinian Patagonia, 1,200km south of Buenos Aires.

Scroll down for Patricio Tapia’s top 10 wines from Patagonia, old and new

Once you reach General Roca, the most important city in the area, the contrast between desert and fertile valley becomes even more evident. The green strip hides large pear and apple farms, extensive vineyards and long rows of tall poplars, planted there to partially stop the constant wind which blows throughout the year, especially in spring.On both sides, flanking the valley, rises the barda, a wall of sand and stones that marks the beginning of the desert. Río Negro, that narrow, green strip, is nothing more than the ancient bed of what once was a mighty river on its way to the Pacific Ocean. The water that still flows underground is what allows the area to be historically one of the most important orchards in Argentina.It was here, in 1998, that the 26-year old winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers arrived. Raised in Bordeaux (his family owned Château Rahoul and Château Landiras in Graves), Vinding-Diers had been hired by an English company that had a joint venture with Humberto Canale, one of the region’s most traditional wineries. ‘When I was told I had to go to Argentina, I assumed it would be Mendoza. In 1998 nobody had any idea that people produced wine in Patagonia.’But, as in Mendoza, viticulture in Río Negro is an intrinsic part of the agricultural tradition. And that is reflected in the great legacy of old vineyards scattered among the orchards. That was one of the things that struck the young Vinding-Diers the most: ‘The place seemed incredible – especially because of the number of old, mass-selected, pre-phylloxera vineyards. It was a treasure!’

In addition to the old vines, the gravel soils of the Río Negro river bed reminded him of Bordeaux. And then there was the weather, with a permanent wind that ensures the vineyard remains healthy. ‘That still seems a luxury to me,’ he says.

With such ‘treasures’ and ‘luxuries’ to hand, it didn’t take long for Vinding-Diers to start planning a personal project. Two years later, he found a plot planted in 1932 in the Mainqué area, in the heart of the valley. It was just 1.5ha of a larger vineyard that had been totally abandoned. ‘But you know what? I tried those grapes and they stirred something deep in me. It’s hard to explain, but everything came together in my mind and I knew there was something special there.’

The birth of Noemía

The initial production of these Malbec grapes justified Vinding-Diers’ inkling. Just 1,300 bottles were made from them, but the wine excited the young oenologist so much that he invited his friend, Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano (former owner of Tuscany’s Tenuta di Argiano in Montalcino) to have a look. Like Vinding-Diers, she was also seduced by the landscape and the wine, so decided to invest in the project. Bodega Noemía was born in 2001.

This first vintage of Noemía, and those that followed it, attracted the attention of critics not only because the wines were very good, but also because they came from a virtually unknown wine region. The other two Malbecs that complete the porfolio – J Alberto, from a vineyard planted in 1955s, and A Lisa, the entry-level red made with bought-in fruit and younger vines owned by the winery – gave even more solidity to this project. ‘When I’m asked what the differences are between the Malbec of Río Negro and that of, for example, the Uco Valley in Mendoza, I always say that Uco fruit seems more austere, more black, with a menthol note in the middle. In Río Negro, it’s more fruity, floral and delicate in character, less tannic.’

There has been a long tradition of wine production in Río Negro, and yet the wines never managed to cross the Patagonian border, let alone that of Argentina due to the success of Mendoza. ‘Those were the times of volume not quality. A lot of wine was consumed, but no one really cared about improving them,’ says Oscar Ferrari, an engineer who helped Vinding-Diers find the vineyards for Noemía, and today is the winery manager.

That would begin to change with the first vintages of Bodega Noemía. Marcelo Miras, who until 2002 was Humberto Canale’s winemaker, said it was hard to quantify the influence Vinding-Diers had among other winemakers in the region. ‘What Hans did was to recognise the value of Río Negro’s old vineyards and then apply his own standards and experience as a winemaker. He had always a clear objective: to make great wines here. Not many others were thinking like that.’

The Chacra experiment

Vinding-Diers’ influence didn’t stop with Malbec at Noemía, but extended to Pinot Noir too, this time enthusing a young Italian from Tuscany. In 2001, Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, grandson of Mario Incisa, creator of Sassicaia, was at a dinner in New York with Countess Marone Cinzano and Vinding-Diers. There he blind tasted a Pinot Noir and, being a lover of Burgundy, was immediately fascinated. ‘The wine seemed to show the varietal characters of the grape, but had something more that at that time I interpreted as sense of place,’ he recalls. ‘The wine wasn’t particularly good, but it did have a lot of character.’

His enthusiasm was such that, some months later, he landed in Patagonia. But the landscape was not what he expected. ‘It wasn’t a disappointment as such, rather that I could not connect the desert and flat landscape with what I had tasted in that wine. In Burgundy or Barolo, you can understand the influence of climate, topography and soil in the wine you drink. But here I could not make that link.’

But since he was there, he thought he may as well look around. And then he found a property in Mainqué with a vineyard planted in 1932. ‘It was there that I began to marvel at the vines: knarled, twisted plants, like you’d see in a Tim Burton movie. I talked to the owner and he agreed to sell me some grapes to experiment with,’ he says.

With Vinding-Diers as a consultant, he took up a space in the Noemía winery and in 2003 and 2004 the pair made their first wines under the Bodega Chacra label. ‘The result was somewhat rustic, but we felt that there were the foundations that just needed to be deepened.’ With the help of partners, Incisa della Rochetta managed to buy the property and slowly began to oxygenate the soil, work the land, and restore balance in the vines. ‘As a result, this semi-abandoned vineyard today is an explosion of flora and fauna – armadillos, hawks, foxes, herbs of all species. What we aim for with our wines is to capture the energy that we have achieved in the vineyard,’

Ancient vine heritage

Suddenly, in the eyes of Incisa della Rochetta, the landscape of Río Negro began to change; he was starting to sense that connection he was seeking in the wine. His Pinot soon drew critical attention and people began to talk about the variety’s potential in Patagonia. Everything started to fall into place in the 2010 vintage. ‘It was a very tricky harvest,’ he said. ‘Due to the hail, we had to pick two weeks earlier than usual. The wine had 11% potential alcohol, but there was nothing green about it. Everything was fruit and freshness.’

The 2010 vintage taught Incisa della Rochetta that the time of ripeness in grapes coming from almost 100-year-old, ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines was different. ‘I realised that it is possible to have complexity and sense of place with grapes picked earlier. Today we make a refreshing yet layered wine in a desert, thanks to one of the world’s most intense luminosities. It was then for me that everything made sense,’ he says.

Bodega Chacra makes three Pinot Noirs. The first is Treinta y Dos and comes from this original vineyard. The soils are rich in clay which, according to Incisa della Rochetta, gives a large, voluptuous wine. Cincuenta y Cinco comes from a vineyard planted in 1955 on soils rich in sand, pebbles and chalk that give the wine a more focused and vertical structure. Barda, meanwhile, comes mainly from a vineyard of 22 years and is the least complex, but the most refreshing of the trio.

Except for Humberto Canale, most Río Negro producers used their Pinot Noir grapes (including those from the century-old vines – something almost non-existent elsewhere on the planet) for sparkling wines. Chacra proved not only that it was possible to make still reds with them, but also some of the best Pinot Noirs in the New World.

The Patagonian wine scene today is still young, but it has changed. The success of Noemía and Chacra has prompted other producers to rescue and preserve the invaluable heritage of old vines in their region. They still have a long way to go to reach the heights attained by these two pioneers, but the potential exists. As with so many things, it’s just a question of time.

Neuquén newcomers

While there are still a few old vineyards in Neuquén, this region is defined by its youth. Towards the end of the 1990s, and with the support of the provincial government, a huge planting project began. According to Wines of Argentina, over the past 15 years more than 1,400 hectares of vineyards were created. ‘It was a bid by the government for a different activity to oil and gas, which is the economic driving force of the region,’ says winemaker Marcelo Miras, who was the project’s lead adviser.

Before too long, on the flat lands of San Patricio del Chañar, about 50km northwest of General Roca, wineries such as Schroeder, Secreto Patagónico and Patritti sprung up, as well as two of the best known names of Patagonia in the international market: Bodegas del Fin del Mundo and NQN – the latter now renamed Malma. Miras was the winemaker for these two wineries until 2015. ‘The main challenge, and the reason I was interested was starting something from scratch; designing the vineyard and also the wineries,’ he said. According to Miras, there are no fundamental differences between Río Negro and Neuquén. ‘In both cases it is a continental, semi-desert climate,’ he explains. ‘But a key difference is the inheritance of old vineyards that exists in Río Negro and that, for obvious reasons, does not in Neuquén.’

The other is the landscape. Río Negro, a valley created thanks to the Río Negro river, looks greener and more fertile. Viticulture there co-exists with orchards and the old, tall poplars which calm the heat in summer. Neuquén, by contrast, is planted over the barda (the wall of sand and stones that marks the beginning of the desert), whose influence is much more palpable. ‘All that changes the environment,’ says Miras.

See Patricio Tapia’s top 10 wines from Patagonia, old and new

Patricio Tapia is the DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina

You may also like

Top South American Cabernet Franc wines: Panel tasting resultsSouth America’s top 10 winemakersPatagonian lakes wine tourBeyond Malbec: Three wine styles only Argentina can offer the world

Phil Crozier, Paz Levinson and Patricio Tapia tasted 99 wines from the Uco Valley sub-regions of Altamira and Gualtallary, with 12 Outstanding and 37 Highly Recommended.

Originally published in the October 2017 issue of Decanter magazine

Entry Criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release reds from Altamira and Gualtallary in Argentina’s Uco Valley, in which 85% of the grapes must be sourced from a single sub-region.

The verdict

The rationale for grouping these two micro-regions of the Uco Valley together for this panel tasting was that both are producing some of Argentina’s most exciting Malbecs and other reds. That fact is confirmed by a fantastic set of results – no fewer than 12 wines rated Outstanding, and a further 37 Highly Recommended.

Both regions won their fair share of the accolades (with Gualtallary having the edge at Highly Recommended level), but in the post-tasting discussion our experts emphasised the differences between them.Altamira is a long-established wine region with older vines and a distinguished pedigree, while Gualtallary is an emerging region without a fully established identity. ‘More experimentation, less history,’ quipped Paz Levinson. ‘We found an “Altamira style” far more than we did a “Gualtallary style” – Altamira was definitely more consistent stylistically.’

Quick link See all tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

Regional character

That said, the tasters were able to make some general observations about regional characters. Levinson described the wines of Gualtallary as having ‘wildness’ and being more herbal. ‘It’s not the fruit bomb, but more about bones, you know – about structure and texture.’

Phil Crozier agreed with the ‘wildness’ descriptor for the Gualtallary reds: ‘I get black fruit from here, and flowers mixed in with that – lavender, roses, violets. There’s a real delicacy, a wildness. Altamira is more red fruit, austerity, medicinal chalk, eucalyptus, menthol. The Altamira wines have a seriousness about them – they appeal to, for example, Burgundy lovers.’

For Patricio Tapia, the difference is about structure. ‘The Altamira wines are better for cellaring, probably because of the structure of the tannins,’ he observed. He found the Altamira style more austere, and the Gualtallary style generally ‘lighter, fresher and vibrant’, though he complained about some ‘soupy, flat wines’. It figures, he said: ‘There’s massive variation in styles because they’re still discovering themselves.’

One major drawback for wine lovers, Crozier pointed out, is that producers are not currently allowed to use the word Gualtallary on the front label, as the rights to use that name are privately owned. Hopefully that situation will change, but in the meantime some producers use ‘Gualta’ on the label, as an alternative.

‘It’s the biggest stumbling block for Gualtallary at the moment,’ added a frustrated Crozier.

Talk then turned to vintages. ‘The 2013s are drinking very nicely – it was a beautiful vintage,’ enthused Crozier. ‘And some of the 2014s were very good too; they’re beginning to come into their own. I was surprised at how good the 2015s are, but it was a disaster for Cabernet Sauvignon – don’t even go there,’ he warned.

In general, buyers who want a change from Malbec are better going to Altamira for Cabernet Sauvignon and Gualtallary for Cabernet Franc, felt Tapia. ‘Malbec works everywhere!’ he added.

All three tasters were keen to convey their genuine enthusiasm for these wines. ‘It was an amazing tasting – there were some absolutely staggeringly beautiful wines,’ said Crozier. And most are approachable now.

‘That’s the strength of Argentinian reds – especially now that the winemakers are managing the oak and tannins more skilfully,’ said Levinson. ‘You can drink them now with pleasure, or happily cellar them for a decade or more if you want to.’

The scores

99 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly Recommended 37

Recommended 31

Commended 6

Fair 8

Poor 3

Faulty 2

See all 99 wines from this panel tasting

Gualtallary & Altamira

These high-altitude Uco Valley regions share similar topographies but their history of winemaking, and the reds themselves, are quite different, as Patricio Tapia reports…

Malbec and Argentina are inextricably linked. The country’s producers know that and have profited from it. But as Italian consultant Alberto Antonini – a key player in the evolution of Argentinian wine – observes: ‘The next step is to sell less Malbec and more Argentinian terroir.’

In this context, regionality begins to play a key role in how we understand Argentinian wines today. There are many regions making excellent wines (Malbec or not), but two garner the most attention for the quality and character they deliver. Both are in the heights of the Uco Valley, at the foot of the Andes: Gualtallary and Altamira, south of the city of Mendoza.

Altamira has a long tradition in wine, and some of its vineyards are more than a century old, while Gualtallary is a new area that was only planted in 1994 thanks to the Chandon winery and its sparkling wines.

In geographical terms, Gualtallary is located north of the Uco Valley, in the department of Tupungato, at an altitude of 1,200m to 1,550m, while Altamira is in the centre of the valley, in the department of Tunuyán, at a height ranging from 1,080m to 1,100m.

The geographical boundaries of Altamira were legally established in 2013 (revisited in 2017) and today it has its own IG (geographical indication), while Gualtallary is still in the process of legalising its borders.

Both share similar topographies: Altamira has alluvial soils that millions of years ago formed the bed of the Tunuyán river, and Gualtallary is on an alluvial cone – the old Las Tunas bed. The soils are rich in sand, gravel and mainly chalk, which imparts mineral notes as well as tense, tight textures in the wines, a detail that separates them from the soft, round tannins of other lower areas.

The character of Gualtallary wines versus Altamira’s is still to be clearly identified, mainly – as Eduardo del Popolo, winemaker at Susana Balbo Winery, says – because both areas are very disparate. But to generalise, del Popolo says the Gualtallary wines are more herbal and light, while Altamira’s are more austere and robust.

The dominant grape is Malbec, but Matías Michelini, owner of Passionate Wine, says Cabernet Franc has also produced very good results in Gualtallary, as well as Sauvignon Blanc. For Sebastián Zuccardi, of Bodega Zuccardi, Bonarda has many possibilities in Altamira.

These Uco Valley sub-regions already produce some of the best wines in Argentina but are still a work in progress.

Uco Valley: Know your vintages

2016 A cold year, giving fresh, light wines; great for those seeking finesse. One of the best vintages of the decade.

2015 Those who picked before the April rains got fresh wines with rich, aromatic, vivid character. Later heatwaves gave riper, voluptuous reds.

2014 A year of finesse and freshness. Low yields, but rich acidity and fruit flavours. The best will age for several years.

2013 Not much concentration, but rich in acidity and fruit notes.

2012 Frost cut yields by up to 40%. A year of moderate heat and very ripe fruit. Drink now.

2011 Concentration and strength, with intense, tannic wines.

2010 Refined and delicate reds. Time to broach but will continue to age well in bottle.

2009 Fat, velvety, ripe reds to drink now.

Gualtallary

Area 5,245ha

Area under vine 2,249ha

Main grapes planted Malbec 1,119ha, Chardonnay 335ha, Cabernet Sauvignon 270ha, Pinot Noir 177ha, Merlot 86ha, Sauvignon Blanc 70ha, Cabernet Franc 55ha

Altamira

Area 9,290ha

Area under vine 2,786ha

Main grapes planted Malbec 1,712ha, Cabernet Sauvignon 434ha, Chardonnay 169ha, Pinot Noir 120ha, Syrah 112ha, Sauvignon Blanc 45ha, Cabernet Franc 43ha

The judges

Phil Crozier

Crozier is wine director for the Gaucho restaurant group, responsible for the wine list, including its 200 Argentinian wines. He also runs the Gaucho-owned Malbec vineyard in Lulunta in Mendoza, which produces Viña Patricia. Crozier is also involved with the production of the Corte G range of wines.

Paz Levinson

Levinson is currently head sommelier at Virtus in Paris and works between France and Argentina as a consultant and educator. She was the first Argentinian to pass the Court of Master Sommeliers’ advanced sommelier certificate, and won the ASI and APAS Best Sommelier of the Americas in 2015.

Patricio Tapia

Tapia is Regional Chair for Argentina at the Decanter World Wine Awards. He is the South American wine critic for Wine & Spirits, and also writes the annual Descorchados bilingual wine guide to Argentinian, Chilean and Uruguayan wine, published in both Spanish and English.

Top-rated wines from the panel tasting:

You may also like:

Premium South American red blends: Panel tasting results

Tasting Catena’s Flagship wines

Italian varieties in Australia: setting down roots

Twenty years ago, few people would have been able to envisage just how Malbec would evolve. The variety, which had been neglected for decades in its homeland, and only rarely used in red blends in other countries – such as Vega Sicilia in Spain and California’s Opus One – is today grown successfully not only in Argentina, but also in Chile, Australia, South Africa and the US. And in its native territory in Cahors, southwest France, Malbec wines are regaining the spotlight after spending centuries in the shadows.

Take a closer look, and this phenomenon could have multiple explanations. On the one hand, its expansion can be explained from a commercial point of view: Argentinian Malbec has enjoyed sustained success during the last decade, embraced by wine lovers across the globe and at different price levels, with the grape increasingly being positioned at the higher end. Meanwhile, from a winemaking perspective, Malbec has successfully adapted to different climates and soils.

Scroll down for Iglesias’ top 15 Malbecs from Argentina and Chile

It is no news that the wineries primarily responsible for this phenomenon are those in Argentina. And we can find many varied expressions of Malbec across its wine-growing regions. But Chile is also emerging as an exciting source of Malbec – the grape has strong roots in the country and has now become the focus of several producers. It can only be positive for consumers that the market offers a growing range of styles and places of origin for this variety, once on the brink of extinction.

Argentinian extremes

Malbec’s chief producing country has 40,250ha (hectares) dedicated to the flagship variety, close to 90% up on what was planted only a decade ago. And when it seemed that there was nothing new under the sun, a handful of small and extreme vineyards started producing wines that are breaking new ground for this icon of the Argentinian wine industry. And, admittedly, to a model that is being closely followed by all the players in the world of Malbec.

You could say that the new styles of Malbec in Argentina have been pioneered in the cold mountain vineyards of Mendoza and San Juan. Over the last few years, both provinces have increased their vineyard area, especially with plantings located at 1,000m above sea level and higher, consequently establishing a new baseline for growing vines above even 2,000m.

In the past, very few people would have imagined these areas to be viable for wine- growing. At this greater altitude, the temperature drops, the ripening cycle slows, and the weather risks increase – a challenge that some oenologists are willing to meet head-on in order to produce lighter and more refreshing styles of Malbec. Whenever he is asked why he chooses to work in such extreme conditions, Alejandro Sejanovich explains: ‘These vineyards help us rethink viticultural and winemaking methods, and we can then apply that knowledge in other areas. It is about ongoing learning.’ Let’s not forget, too, that these are regions with virgin soils, which also contributes new knowledge and experience.

Volume-wise, the output of these marginal regions is tiny when compared to that of more traditional areas, but each one of them opens a door to a new sensory dimension.

Sejanovich, the creator of Manos Negras, a project exploring different regional styles, has recently unveiled the first wines produced with grapes from the vineyard he developed in Uspallata in 2009, a new winemaking region in Mendoza located 2,000m above sea level. ‘In these extreme and cold conditions, on clay and bedrock soils, Malbec develops an exotic character, typical of high-altitude wines, but with spiced notes, a delicate texture, and a marked freshness,’ says the winemaker about the Estancia Uspallata Malbec 2015.

Sebastián Zuccardi is similarly animated about his new vineyard in Uco Valley, 1,400m above sea level. ‘When we planted here in San Pablo, we got to a point where we thought we had made a mistake,’ Zuccardi explains. ‘It is very cold, very close to the Andes and has a high average rainfall. For instance, we did not need any irrigation in 2015.’ But, he says: ‘Now we’re so excited to work with those grapes because they allow us to produce a Malbec like no other.’ The wine he refers to is the Polígonos del Valle de Uco San Pablo 2015, an austere and refreshing Malbec with only 13% alcohol – rare for an Argentinian red.

Mendoza is not the only region adding new profiles to the Malbec variety. In San Juan, the Pedernal Valley area is also becoming a pioneer. With vineyards established in 2008 on flint soils at 1,300m to 1,600m above sea level, this area is protected by hills and high mountain fronts in the middle of the precordillera, which provides a moderate temperature and good light intensity. ‘This terroir allows us to produce an exotic Malbec, with a lively feeling in the mouth and complex aromas,’ explains José Morales, winemaker at Pyros Wines, and the person in charge of one of the projects in the region.

Chilean diversity

Across the Andes, Chile has 2,300ha of Malbec, in third position as a producer of this grape, behind France, which features an area, chiefly in Cahors, of a little over 4,000ha.

Chile’s Malbec vineyards are concentrated mainly in the Central Valley, but can also be found in Limarí and Elqui, while Bío Bío boasts a handful of old pre-phylloxera vineyards that seem to resist the passing of time. This distribution exposes Malbec to varied soils, climates and heights, resulting in wines different from those produced in Argentina, the world’s largest producer of the grape.

However, despite the differences in volume and area, Chile already has close to 50 labels of this variety that are now becoming available in wine stores worldwide.

At this point, you may wonder why these wines have such a low profile when Chile possesses such vine-growing wealth. Aurelio Montes expresses it very clearly: ‘In Chile we have been focused on other varieties for years – Cabernet Sauvignon in particular – and so we were not able to realise sooner the huge potential of Malbec.’

There is also a commercial reason: ‘Fifteen years ago, Malbec had no history in the markets,’ Montes continues. ‘These wines were rustic at best, until Argentina dressed them in a tuxedo. From then on, it was not easy to offer a Chilean Malbec when, to wine lovers worldwide, Malbec was known as an Argentinian wine.’

However, Malbec found a way to get attention on its own, recalls Sven Bruchfeld, winemaker at Polkura. ‘In our case, we used to produce Malbec just so we could blend it with our Syrah, only about 5%, and we sold the surplus. But then in 2008, we started paying more attention to our Malbec and realised it was too good to sell, so we started bottling it.’

Faced with the need to innovate and experiment, several winemakers joined this movement to vindicate the Malbec variety, and change the course of history.

While 90% of the Malbec vineyards in Chile are located in the Central Valley, it is important to understand that this does not imply a homogenous style of wines. As Ricardo Grellet, president of the National Association of Sommeliers of Chile explains: ‘What is unique about the Chilean geography is that you can find very different plots of land within all the valleys, ensuring diversity even within the same variety. Today, the new vineyards are designed with the characteristics of each of these terroirs in mind.’ Following this premise, it’s possible to find several different expressions in a single valley.

In more technical terms, Pedro Parra, a renowned expert on soils and terroir studies, explains that ‘there are two types of Malbec in the world: the ones grown in geological soils (very old rock soils), and the ones grown in alluvial soils or colluvium’ (ie, newer soils).

‘In Chile,’ he says, ‘we find both expressions. The younger soils are in the Central Valley, while the older, granitic soils are located to the south.’ According to Parra, these soils produce two different profiles. The wines from the alluvial soils have a moderate acidity, are fruity and full-bodied, while wines from the older soils are more austere in character, have a higher acidity and a lower pH.

In Chile’s Colchagua Valley, Malbec has a long history. The Viu Manent winery, Malbec experts since 1993 when they bottled Chile’s first 100% varietal version, has pre-phylloxera vines that enabled it to work in new vineyards and expand its own plantings to 80ha. As a result it produces six different versions of Malbec with grapes from San Carlos and Peralillo. Also well-regarded are other wines in which Malbec forms a key component, grown in Apalta, Cachapoal, Lolol, Marchigüe, Rapel, Requínoa and Santa Cruz, in vineyards propagated through clonal selections or others through massal selection from older vines.

Sergio Avendaño of Trabun Wines says: ‘Malbec proved to be a versatile variety, which expresses the characteristics of its location. That convinced us to start growing it in 2010 in Requínoa, with results that allowed us to convey the essence of that region.’

Old-vine expressions

Maule also has a long-standing tradition with this variety. It’s not difficult to find 50-year-old vines, like the ones Matías Michelini uses to make MalMau, a varietal Malbec he produces for House of Morandé. ‘What sets Maule apart from other regions is that the rainfall regime allows for dry farming of the vines, and that gives additional authenticity to the place. This results in wines that seem mature, but are vertical and have a light mouthfeel.’

Outside the Central Valley, there are also extreme Malbec wines, like the ones from the Elqui Valley and the Limarí Valley, where vines are grown at more than 1,600m above sea level in very cold mountain areas featuring bedrock and granite soils, which produce wines with impressive tension and complex aromas. Among the producers in this region are Tabalí, with its Roca Madre Malbec, and Viñedos de Alcohuaz.

Meanwhile, in the south, the Malbec bush vines in Bío Bío are the oldest of this variety in Chile, resisting the passing of time and grown on slopes in a dry habitat, with no irrigation. This results in austere wines ‘very similar to the European Malbec’, explains Leo Erazo, winemaker at Altos Las Hormigas, which on the other side of the Andes runs Rogue Vine, where it makes Macho Anciano – a very singular and restrained Malbec. In the same area, Pedro Parra and his colleagues at Clos des Fous offer an expression with a little more body and volume, but without straying from the Bío Bío profile, with their Tocao, which is 80% Malbec and 20% Carignan.

It is worth mentioning that the Chilean Malbec does not share so many similarities with that of Argentina, as regards style and expression. Therefore, Chilean Malbecs become an interesting alternative for those who have fallen under the spell of this variety, which always guarantees a fruity intensity and a juicy mouthfeel. ‘In Chile, Malbec wines are austere, featuring black fruit and spiced aromas, as opposed to red fruit, and have a rather salty mouthfeel. It is a colder version,’ explains Leo Erazo.

In turn, Marcelo Pino, Chile’s Best Sommelier, says: ‘While Chilean Malbec is still little-known in our country, the truth is that Chilean consumers are becoming increasingly aware of it, and the number of vineyards that produce and market it is growing.’

He ends by adding: ‘This is a great time to develop this variety, which offers a style and character of its own, with good virtues and outstanding qualities.’

A certified sommelier working across Latin America, Alejandro Iglesias is also a widely published wine writer and educator

See Iglesias’ top 15 Malbecs from Argentina and Chile

You may also like

Best South American wines under £15/$20South America’s top 10 winemakersGreat value Malbec from Argentina: A buying guideSouth American Riesling: Expert’s ChoiceArgentina’s mountain wines: Calchaquí Valley reds

Paz Levinson, Peter Richards MW and Dircau Vianna Junior MW tasted 95 South American red blends, with 4 Outstanding and 46 Highly Recommended.

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release, super-premium red blends with availability in the UK or US markets.

Scroll down to see the tasting notes & scores

The verdict

Considering that all the wines in this tasting were at a super-premium level, the judges were justifiably expecting something special. The strike-rate was impressive, with more than half rated Outstanding or Highly Recommended. Overall there was an admirable degree of consistency, and there was plenty to get excited about.

Most wines displayed excellent concentration and fruit purity with refined texture, depth and complexity. The majority exhibited sophisticated structure with little over-extraction, and good balance despite alcohol levels at 14.5% or above.Oak use has improved significantly, though there were examples of wines displaying excessive oakiness, and the majority of wines were polished and overt, capable of giving pleasure on their own but also with adequate structure to accompany food, especially hearty meat dishes.

Quick link: See all 95 wines from this panel tasting

In general, Chilean producers seem more reluctant to take risks, so some wines were more predictable, less exciting. Argentinian producers, on the other hand, are finally getting the message that freshness and restraint are vital to achieve finesse in a fine wine.

On the evidence of this tasting, producers here seem more open to pushing boundaries by picking earlier – these wines demonstrated more energy and tension, and were considerably more appealing.

For Peter Richards MW, some of the most exciting wines of the tasting came from Uco Valley. Paz Levinson agreed, highlighting the sub-regions of Altamira and Gualtallary.

While Levinson highlighted Cachapoal and Maipo as her best-performing areas in Chile in this tasting, Richards found it harder to draw conclusions as quality seemed to be more dependent on the producer, and he was disappointed that there were so few wines from the Puente Alto area.

In fact, the absence of many of the big names from Chile was noted by all the judges. It’s a shame that some producers are happy to enter comparative tastings with wines from around the world, but much more reticent to be judged against their own peers. Hopefully this will change in the future – for everyone’s benefit.

In Argentina, the tasters agreed that blends of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon worked well. Richards was particularly impressed by blends featuring Cabernet Franc as well as Malbec-Syrah combinations; Levinson praised Malbec-Cabernet Franc blends, especially from Gualtallary.

In Chile, as expected, the vast majority of blends were driven by Cabernet Sauvignon with additional elements of Bordeaux varieties and rare appearances of Syrah. Some of these older vintages of Cabernet-based Chilean wines (2013, 2011 and 2010) showed well and are ageing gracefully in comparison to Malbec-based Argentinian wines, which seem more rewarding to enjoy younger.

In an impressive tasting, quality overall was consistent. South American super-premium red blends are no longer just about exuberant fruit and power. We are seeing a concerted move towards elegance, and producers seem to be working harder than ever to express their terroir.

This must be encouraged and producers must not be afraid of taking risks in search of freshness, elegance, subtlety and enhanced complexity.

Despite the high price-tag, many of these wines can be considered bargains, especially when compared to super-premium red blends from Bordeaux, California and Tuscany.

The scores

95 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly Recommended 46

Recommended 37

Commended 4

Fair 1

Poor 0

Faulty 3

The judges

Paz Levinson

Levinson is currently head sommelier at Virtus in Paris and works between France and Argentina as a consultant and educator. She was the first Argentinian to pass the Court of Master Sommeliers’ advanced sommelier certificate, and won the ASI and APAS Best Sommelier of the Americas in 2015.

Peter Richards MW

Richards is an award-winning broadcaster and writer, with more than a decade on BBC1 television and four books including The Wines of Chile and his own Chile Wine Brief. He is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile and, with his wife Susie Barrie MW, he co-hosts the acclaimed annual Wine Festival Winchester.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW

Originally from Brazil, Vianna studied forest engineering and law, before moving to London, where he began to work in the wine trade in 1990. In 2008, he became the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine. He is now working as a wine writer, educator, technical consultant and competition judge.

South American red blends

The status of ‘icon’ has to be earned, but what exactly does a wine have to achieve in order to join this upper echelon of New World styles? Dirceu Vianna Junior MW explains…

Nineteen years ago, when Argentina was first making its mark with simple, juicy and easy-textured Malbecs, Nicolás Catena had the dream of creating an Argentinian wine that could compete with the world’s greatest reds. He released the 1997 vintage of his Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon in a series of global blind tastings, pitting it against other 1997s including Château Latour, Opus One, Caymus Special Selection and Antinori’s Solaia. His wine regularly took first or second place.

In Chile, Errazuriz’s Eduardo Chadwick feels a super-premium wine that carries the aspiration to become an ‘icon’ must convey a specific character that can only come from a unique terroir, as well as having an engaging story.

Chadwick is credited for altering the perception of Chile’s premium credentials by hosting a series of blind tastings worldwide to pit his top Cabernets against some of the best Bordeaux, and later icon reds from California, Spain and Italy. The events began in Berlin in 2004, with his Viñedo Chadwick 2000 and Seña 2001 triumphing over Château Lafite Rothschild 2000 and Château Margaux 2001, among others, at a time when Chile was perceived as merely a source for fruit-driven, reliable and inexpensive wines.

High achievers

Despite these solo triumphs, neither country had yet managed to build a convincing reputation as a source of super-premium, icon wines. Most ‘premium’ wines at that time were made solely with the aim of impressing through their power and concentration. The formula included excessively ripe fruit, lots of expensive oak and packaging that often featured an extraordinarily heavy bottle – qualities that regrettably continue today, in some cases.

But these landmark tastings began to challenge the general perception, proving that South American wines could rub shoulders with the world’s best reds – and show elegance too.

Understanding that their countries had the grapes, the terroir and the people able to produce premium wines had an effect beyond enhancing a sense of pride among fellow South American producers – it gave many the confidence and desire to prove their own credentials.

Fifteen years on, and this Decanter panel tasting is an opportune moment to assess just what has been achieved at the premium end of South American wines. It gives us the chance to compare the directions taken by each country and to judge whether these top-end South American wines really can be considered super-premium and worthy of icon status.

Greatness in wine, as in art, is hard to define, as it is highly subjective. A great wine exhibits multiple dimensions in aromatic profile as well as flavour. Whereas some aspects of quality are tangible, easier to grasp – such as concentration of fruit, harmony, complexity and persistence – other parameters are harder to evaluate as they include, among other things, the ability of a wine to stimulate not only our physical senses, but our intellect.

Top South American red blends from the panel tasting:

See all 95 wines from this panel tasting

Argentina: know your vintages

2018 An excellent vintage: warm, sunny days and cool nights ensured perfect ripening.

2017 Forward, exuberant and harmonious reds despite the long, hot summer.

2016 One of the coldest vintages in a decade, resulting in lighter wines with notably crisp acidity.

2015 A long harvest yielding attractive, juicy reds – especially fresh and vibrant for those who picked early.

2014 Low-yielding harvest and wines with assertive acidity that are ageing well.

2013 A notoriously cool vintage. The top-end wines are ageing gracefully.

2012 Low-yielding harvest due to frost. Those who escaped made ripe, juicy, concentrated reds.

Argentina wine grape plantings

Total cultivated area 220,848ha

Malbec 42,999ha

Cabernet Sauvignon 14,666ha

Syrah 12,247ha

Merlot 5,306ha

Cabernet Franc 1,146ha

Petit Verdot 652ha

Source: INV-Database

Chile: know your vintages

2018 Favourable conditions, with moderate temperatures resulting in a promising vintage of harmonious reds.

2017 Abnormally hot vintage including severe wild fires. Despite an early harvest, the wines are marred by the heat.

2016 An excellent vintage, especially for those who opted to pick early.

2015 Noticeably warm vintage yielded ripe, exuberant and succulent reds.

2014 The season started with a frost and finished warm and sunny, resulting in generally good-quality reds.

2013 One of the coolest vintages in recent memory, giving long-lived, sophisticated reds.

2012 A challenging, warm vintage, abnormally humid. Most wines should be drunk now.

Chile wine grape plantings

Total cultivated area 137,375ha

Cabernet Sauvignon 41,156ha

Merlot 11,703ha;

Carmenère 10,250ha

Syrah 7,738ha

Malbec 2,249ha

Cabernet Franc 1,578ha

Petit Verdot 863ha

Source: Wines of Chile

You may also like

Fine wines to know from Chile and Argentina

South America’s top 10 winemakers

Time to try South American sparkling wine

Chilean Carmenère: Panel tasting results

South American Riesling: Expert’s Choice

Nicolas Catena’s ultimate goal has always been ‘to make Argentine wine stand amongst the best in the world.’

His desire is unequivocally shared by his passionate daughter Laura, who boldly stated at a recent tasting at Claridges in London, ‘I want every collector in the world to have Nicolas Catena Zapata in their cellar.’

Laura was speaking at the UK launch of the latest vintages of Catena’s flagship wines, Nicolas Catena Zapata and Adrianna Mundus Bacillus Terrae. The tasting also featured several older vintages of both cuvées.

Nicolas Catena Zapata

Inspired by the progression of Napa in the 1980s, Nicolas Catena wanted to showcase the potential of Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon.

This led to the creation of the eponymous cuvée, Nicolas Catena Zapata in 1997 – a 97% Cabernet and 3% Malbec blend that redefined premium Argentine wine when it won a series of blind tastings against other prestigious cuvées from around the world in 2001.

As Laura explained, ‘My father had more confidence in Cabernet than Malbec at that point. As we understood Malbec more, we fell in love and started to put more into the blend.’ Recent vintages are generally around 75-80% Cabernet with the balance being made up by Malbec.

Pioneers

This deeper understanding of Malbec was largely derived from Catena’s pioneering work in planting the variety at altitude in Gualtallary. The decision to plant the Adrianna vineyard at 1,450m in 1992 was ridiculed by many who thought Malbec would never ripen at such an altitude. To say his decision has been vindicated would be an understatement, with Gualtallary now considered the mecca for Malbec.

Mundus Bacillus Terrae

Within the Adrianna vineyard lies a 1.4ha parcel which is particularly rich in rhizobacteria, a micro-organism said to help vine roots withstand stress and aid nutrient absorption. This parcel produces the Mundus Bacillus Terrae, one of the worlds finest single-vineyard Malbecs.

Longevity

What was very clear from this tasting was the longevity of these top cuvées. The 2005 Nicolas Catena Zapata was the most evolved of the wines on show, yet it’s still very much in its infancy and at the beginning of its drinking window.

Laura remarked, ‘The best wines in the world should be able to age, and we like to think that these wines show this’.

Last year, Catena took the decision to go for broader distribution of these top wines, and listed them on La Place de Bordeaux in a bid to increase the audience of global collectors. On the strength of this tasting, these two cuvées certainly stand alongside the finest wines in the world, and belong in any cellar.

A taste of Catena’s flagship wines:

You may also like:

Argentina’s mountain wines: Calchaquí Valley reds

Top South American Cabernet Franc wines: Panel tasting results

Fine wines to know from Chile and Argentina

Bahía Bustamante in Argentina is best known for whale-watching, penguins and seaweed farming, but it could also one day be known for wine as Argentina’s newest coastal vineyard takes root.

New Bahía Bustamante vineyard planted over 45° South

Argentine winemaker Matías Michelini (Passionate Wines, SuperUco), eco-resort owner Matias Soriano (Bahía Bustamante Lodge) and gin-distiller Tato Giovannoni (Apostoles Gin) planted just under a hectare of Semillon and Pinot Noir last month just metres from the coastline.

‘It’s a magical place,’ said Michelini, who has also been involved in other unconventional vineyards elsewhere in Chubut and in Córdoba.

‘The penguins and sea lions came out of the sea to watch us planting our vineyard.’

The region has never been planted with vines before and this is one of the southernmost vineyards in the world – on a similar latitude to Central Otago at 45.1° South.

Despite its latitude, the region has a mild maritime influence with average summer temperatures at 19°C, and rarely lower than 10°C.

This maritime influence is what Michelini, Soriano and Giovannoni are looking for. ‘The vineyard is right on the coastline,’ said Michelini.

‘In high tide, the sea comes within a few inches of getting the vines wet. We have purposefully planted very delicate varieties because we want to taste the Atlantic in the wines.’

Bahía Bustamante was known as the ‘bahía podrida’ (the putrid beach) for many years because of its strong seaweed smell and seaweed farming industry.

The rocky, sandy soils will now also be farmed for grapes and the first harvest of ‘Bahía Bustamante’ wine is expected within the next four years.

Although still relatively small scale, coastal plantations are on the rise in Argentina.

Trapiche’s Costa y Pampa project was a pioneer on the coast of Buenos Aires in 2009, soon followed by Bodega Tapiz, which now has 120 hectares planted in Viedma.

You may also like:

Great value Malbec from Argentina: A buying guide

There is more than just one style of Argentinian Malbec there is also excellent value-for-money to be had. Patricio Tapia and Paz Levinson offer expert advice and pick 27 wines to seek out that won't break the bank...

Copy by Patricio Tapia

There was a time when Argentinian Malbec seemed to have only one voice. Taking advantage of the variety’s characteristic softness and its fruity nature, the style that winemakers chose to promote emphasised the ripeness and sweetness of grapes that were harvested very late, so that they acquired a jammy, unctuous character.

And when the price allowed it, there was also a strong tendency to use new oak. This style soon became popular around the world and catapulted Malbec to stardom.

Scroll down for 27 wallet-friendly Malbecs from Argentina

That one voice spoke for Argentina at all price levels, from the simplest Malbecs to the most ambitious.However, in the last decade – and with gathering momentum in the past five years in particular – the range of Malbec styles has opened up, offering new voices.

The variety has shown winemakers many different faces; arguably more than anyone could ever have imagined.

Argentina currently has just over 40,000ha of Malbec vineyards, 85% of which are planted in Mendoza, a desert region where the sun is generous and rains are scarce.

Malbec has managed to adapt itself very well to these conditions and transmit that sunshine in its generous flavours. But naturally having a low concentration of vegetal tones (unlike, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc) Malbec has a wide harvest window. This means that grapes can be picked very early in the season without offering vegetal notes, or harvested very late to achieve those unctuous and sweet flavours. The time period between these two extremes of harvesting can be as much as six weeks.

Increasingly, producers are now harvesting earlier, especially when it comes to simpler wines, like the value Malbecs that we tried for this tasting. And when that decision is made, the red, tense, crunchy fruit of Malbec comes to the fore, offering delicious wines, the kind of easy-drinking reds that are consumed more by the bottle than by the glass.

Changing style

‘The sweet spot for Malbec is between £8 and £20 – we saw that at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards and it was reaffirmed in this tasting,’ says award-winning sommelier Paz Levinson, who tasted these wines with me and was the Acting Regional Chair for Argentina at the 2018 DWWA.

‘The variety’s bright fruit appeals to many – today we see more fresh, crunchy black berries instead of the plummy, desiccated fruit of old. The oak is much more balanced – or completely absent – without the palate losing body or fruit concentration. This is all down to producers having a much better understanding of their vineyards as well as changes in both climate and consumer tastes.’

That said, it must be pointed out that not all of the recommendations here are fresh, red-fruited thirst-quenchers.

In this price range we also found some richer, unctuous Malbecs with oaky tones and others with great extraction and concentration of black fruit.

This variety of styles in no bad thing. As Argentinian producers continue to overcome prejudices about what the public wants or does not want, the different voices will continue to emerge, giving Malbec a diversity that until very recently it did not have. And that is very good news for wine lovers.

Patricio Tapia is a wine writer and author of the annual Descorchados guide to South America. Paz Levinson is an award-winning sommelier, who works between Paris and her native Argentina.

See Patricio Tapia and Paz Levenson’s pick of 27 good value Malbecs from Argentina

You might also like:

12 exciting Argentinian wines under £25

Seven rising stars of Argentinian winemaking

Expert’s Choice: Argentinian Cabernet

Bodega Catena Zapata in Argentina has said that two of its top wines will be represented across Europe and Asia by 10 Bordeaux merchant houses, marking the latest vote of confidence in the city’s négociant system by non-French producers.

Catena Zapata said that flagship wines Nicolás Catena Zapata 2015 and Adrianna Vineyard ‘Mundus Bacillus Terrae Malbec’ 2015 would be sold in Europe and Asia through the Place de Bordeaux.

Specifically, the Argentinian winery said that it had signed a deal with a group of 10 négociants, although it did not name them.

The first wines were expected to be offered from Thursday 6 September, the winery said. The move is further evidence of the Place de Bordeaux becoming a distribution hub for fine wines from beyond the French city’s surrounding area.

Dr Laura Catena, who manages Catena Zapata and is the fourth generation of the owning family, said, ‘I have long admired the Bordeaux négociants’ commitment to distributing the greatest wines of Bordeaux to collectors all over the world.

‘Through our almost 20-year partnership with the Rothschild [Lafite] family in Argentina [via Bodega Caro], my father and I have developed a deep respect for the Bordelais vignerons.’

A spokesperson for Catena Zapata said that the estate anticipated selling around 50% of production of the two wines via the Place de Bordeaux.

A significant move

The estate said that it believed the deal also marked a significant moment for Malbec, given its history in south-west France. It is still one of the varieties permitted in a Bordeaux red blend; albeit it is seldom used and the 20th Century saw producers increasingly turn to Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Nicolás Catena is credited with being one of the pioneers of Argentina’s modern wine industry, in part due to work to revive Malbec’s fortunes.

The Nicolás Catena Zapata wine, which debuted with the 1997 vintage, combines Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec and involves 200 separate vinifications of individual vineyard rows, according to the estate.

Its 2015 vintage is made up of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Malbec, according to technical information on Catena Zapata’s website.

The Adrianna vineyard, which provides fruit for the Mundus Bacillus Terrae Malbec, was planted in 1992 and lies in the far west of Tupungato Alto at 1,500 metres above sea level. The wine is part of a focus on site-specific Malbec, as Alejandro Vigil, winemaking director at Bodega Catena Zapata, recently told Decanter magazine for a feature in its October 2018 issue.

Other non-French wines on Place de Bordeaux

Earlier this year, Francis Ford Coppola announced that he had given distribution rights for his Inglenook Napa wines outside of North and Central America to three Bordeaux négociants.

Italy’s Masseto, California’s Opus One and Chile’s Seña are also distributed via the Place. Decanter’s Jane Anson examined a changing role for Bordeaux négociants in a column last year.

See also:

Treating Malbec ‘like Pinot Noir’: The new terroir approach

Fine wines to know from Chile and Argentina

How good can it be? Argentina’s top winemakers are pushing the country’s headline grape to its limits in their quest to achieve the best possible quality and character. Patricio Tapia reports...

When Sebastian Zuccardi, winemaker at Bodega Familia Zuccardi, first saw the landscape, and the site they had chosen for the vineyard, he calculated with some concern that at least 300 trucks would be needed to remove all the stones before planting.

Scroll down for Tapia’s top terroir-focused Malbecs from Uco Valley

It was the summer of 2007 and the Zuccardi family, today one of the most important forces in South American wine, was about to embark upon the most ambitious adventure of its history. The vineyard, still unnamed, would surround a winery, a construction that would be made only of stones and concrete, a building that could be confused with the desert landscape of thorns and rocks, of huge mountains asymmetrically cutting the horizon.

The initial calculation was wrong. It took a thousand trucks to remove all those stones.

As a good example of the slightly dark sense of Argentine humour, and taking into account the thousand trucks, the vineyard was baptised Piedra Infinita (infinite stone) and is located in the area of Altamira, about 1,400m above sea level, at the foot of the Andes mountains. It is not a new place for viticulture. In fact, it was in this area that the first vines in the Uco Valley were planted, towards the beginning of the 20th century. However, the exact location chosen by the Zuccardis had never previously been planted.

‘The site was not planted, because it’s on a slope and irrigation becomes complicated– and also because there are so many stones,’ says Sebastián Zuccardi.

Piedra Infinita has 36ha of vines, of which 27ha are Malbec. It’s hard to see the appeal, surveying it while Zuccardi talks about the special attention needed here, and the way in which they had to design the vineyard to accommodate the challenging topography.

What we see is an arid and cold surface, interrupted by vines that could be described as ‘scrawny’, small trunks in the middle of a landscape of equally scrawny vegetation, doing their best to survive on the little water that trickles down from the Andes.

Zuccardi has been experimenting with these vines since they first bore fruit, in 2009. First, in a corner of the company’s Maipú winery, in an area full of containers of all sizes, materials and shapes that they called, not without certain ambition, the ‘research and development department’. And then in the winery that today stands in the middle of the Altamira vineyards, and that was inaugurated in 2013. Stone and cement. Imposing, but at the same time tailored to the needs of the Zuccardi family in this location.

Mountain view

But let’s look at things from a distance. If you walk a few metres to the west, you can find yourself in the middle of the vineyards. The winery and its cement walls begin to emerge, as does the Andes mountain range, a wall of rock in the distance. Now everything looks calm, but in truth nothing is.

Albeit imperceptibly, the mountain continues to move, gradually eroding its skirts, transporting the rocks, sands and chalk with the waters that descend from the summits, as it has done for thousands of years. It is not strange to think, then, that the soils derived from those skirts are anything but homogeneous, thanks to this chaotic yet noiseless avalanche of Andean material.

No doubt Sebastián Zuccardi, facing this piece of virgin land in that summer of 2007, thought not only of the many trucks required, but also of the diverse wine styles that these soils could give him.

Fast-forward, and we know that these 27ha of Malbec gave him a wine, a Malbec that is now known as Piedra Infinita, and which is an expression of that diverse territory. ‘Piedra Infinita is made with about 20 wines that come from 20 different areas,’ he says. ‘We blend all that in a single Malbec.’

But sometimes, there are individual wines among those 20 that stand out for their differences. This is the case, for example, with the notable but minimal productions (600 bottles each) of Gravascal and Supercal, and also the Concreto Malbec, of which about 12,000 bottles are produced. ‘In that wine we look for something extreme. It comes from a sector of the vineyard that has almost no soil– it’s just chalk and stone,’ adds Zuccardi.

Concreto is a good example of the current house style. Born in chalk, it has that vertical texture that clings to the palate and its fruity flavours are fresh and tense. ‘We avoid the fat, the sweetness – that’s why we harvest early and don’t use wood. We don’t want anything that sweetens,’ he says.

Self-schooled

This Malbec shows just one aspect of the Zuccardi Piedra Infinita vineyard, and illustrates the diversity of today’s micro-terroirs in Argentina – something that was not well understood by the country’s producers even a short time ago. Or at least that is the experience Alejandro Sejanovich, today a founding partner at Tinto Negro, had in his early years as a winemaker.

Towards the beginning of the 1990s, Sejanovich worked for Catena. ‘In those years it was all about looking for a homogeneity of soils and vineyards,’ he says. ‘A single type of soil planted, in the best case, with a grape of only one clone that gave a consistent production. The old Malbec vineyards, with the diversity of decades of massale selections, were badly thought-of.’

This common approach caused Sejanovich some disquiet, and he decided to challenge the accepted view. The first opportunity came in 1994, with a vineyard planted in Altamira. There he began to make different vinifications according to the types of soil he found there.

He soon realised that the differences were remarkable, and as soon as he had the opportunity to buy a vineyard, the place he chose was Altamira, an area with a special richness of soils.

Finca La Escuela is so named because there is a small rural school next to the vineyard. Sejanovich planted the vineyard in 2000 and the first wine to be made was simply called Finca La Escuela, his interpretation of the rich diversity of soils present in these 7.5ha of vineyards. But then it went further.

‘We had been researching the different soils of La Escuela since we bought the vineyard, and in 2012 we started bottling their wines separately.’ Sejanovich explains how the four wines that make up the range differ. The Finca La Escuela La Piedra example, gives a wine of great concentration and strength in a soil rich in stones and poor in fertility, while Finca La Escuela El Limo has a riper profile, and better preserves acidity in a soil with better water retention.

Singular character

A similar journey was made by Alejandro Vigil, chief winemaker at Bodega Catena Zapata, this time with the Adrianna vineyard, at about1,500m in the heights of Gualtallary in the Uco Valley. Adrianna was planted in 1994, and at the time was a huge gamble. In those days the area was considered too high and too cold for Malbec grapes to fully mature. Time would prove otherwise.

Vigil joined Catena in 2002. His previous job had been related to soils at INTA (National Institute of Agricultural Technology), so one of the first things that caught his attention was the richness of Adrianna.

‘One of the things that surprised me most was that, for example, between a sector rich in chalk and one rich in sand, there was more than a month’s difference in the harvest dates,’ Vigil recalls.

The first harvest from Adrianna was in 2004, and the wine was one of a line of single-vineyard bottlings from different areas of Mendoza. But Vigil knew that this was only the first step and that his search was for a greater specificity, especially after a first and very revealing trip to Burgundy, in 2005.

‘After that, I began to try to see Malbec as Pinot Noir, starting with the clear way in which it shows the soil where it comes from – but also in terms of oenology, treating it more delicately when extracting flavours and also using whole clusters, including stems. ’Vigil recalls that a producer in Burgundy told him he had begun to add the stems to improve the structure; without it, the wine had a flabby structure – a common issue also with Malbec, a grape not characterised by having a great tannic backbone. At the same time, Vigil realised that the more calcareous soils bolstered this structure, offering sharper tannins, and more grip in the mouth.

‘Also related to the structure, we discovered that the harvest date was crucial. If we harvested too early, or too late, it directly affected the skeleton of the Malbec. Contrary to common perception, the window of harvest for this grape, at least in high-altitude vineyards, is very small.’

After years of studying the soil and experimenting with Malbec, in 2013 Vigil decided to bottle the wines of the three soils that seemed to bring the most personality to the wines. For Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae, a deep soil of lime and sand of about80cm ends on a base of chalk. The Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae, meanwhile, comes from a specific sector where the soil’s micro-organisms have a special symbiosis with the roots, allowing for a better absorption of minerals. And Adrianna Vineyard River Stones is the most stony sector of the property and has almost no soil.

For Vigil, there are tangible differences between the three wines. If Fortuna is a wine marked by acidity ‘almost as if it were a Champagne base wine’, Mundus Bacillus Terrae offers a vertical wine with great balance, but always towards the side of acidity. River Stones has the most mature profile of the three, where for the first-time black fruits appear along with red fruits. While the other two have 50% stems during vinification, River Stones has 100% to help give structure – solid bones to sustain that maturity.

These are small-production wines, about 3,000 bottles each, with each one raised in barrels and foudres for a minimum of 18months. Since the three sectors of the vineyard were the basis for the original Adrianna Vineyard Malbec bottling, with the emergence of these three single plots the Adrianna was discontinued from the market as of 2013. ‘During the last 15 years, we have been vinifying separately around 16 types of different soils in different areas of the Uco Valley, but only these three have consistently given me very good results,’ Vigil emphasises.

Right place, right time

Just a decade and a half ago, Argentina was still amazed by the Malbec variety and the success it was having in export markets around the world. The excitement was such that few producers took the time to investigate the real potential of the grape, beyond its undeniable commercial qualities: delicious aromas and a smooth, creamy texture. It was Malbec itself that was spoken about, rather than production zones where it was grown.

However, in recent years, the concept of regionality, of a sense of place in relation to Malbec, began to be heard in conversations between winemakers. These new micro-terroirs are the next and logical step on the journey to understanding the true depths of Argentinian Malbec.

Patricio Tapia is author of the Descorchados guide to the wines of South America, and a regular Decanter contributor.

See Tapia’s top terroir-focused Malbecs from Uco Valley

You might also like:

12 exciting Argentinian wines under £25

Seven rising stars of Argentinian winemaking

Expert’s Choice: Argentinian Cabernet

Follow the development of one of the wine world’s most extreme territories, as Patricio Tapia picks his favourite bottles from Argentina’s rugged far north...

It looks like the moon. A rocky surface, intersected by mountains of sharp peaks and lands of all shades of grey. There is almost no life here, beyond whatever manages to grow next to the rivers that wend their way down the mountains.

Although a desert region, like Mendoza, the Calchaquí Valleys in Argentina’s far northwest are a world of their own, a land with 300 days of sun, higher than 2,000m, with condors soaring up above – huge birds with a three-metre wingspan, the colossi of the Andes, observing from great height some of the most extreme vineyards in the world.

Scroll down for Tapia’s top Calchaquí Valley reds

Under these conditions, the wines produced in this area – comprising the provinces of Salta, Catamarca and Tucumán, some 1,200km north of Mendoza – are intense in their flavours and also often extremely high in alcohol.Since 1988, when consultant Michel Rolland arrived in Salta, the prevailing style has been one of opulent wines, rich in maturity. Nothing strange about that, in an area where it rains very rarely and where the sun’s radiation is intense and all-enveloping.

The harvest can be quietly anticipated until the grapes reach a generous maturity – there is nothing to stop them from accumulating sugar.

Little by little, however, other voices have appeared, calling for wines of a less unctuous and fresher character. And although they still number very few, it is a trend that’s slowly increasing.

Vital in this change have been moves to bring the harvests forward, protect grape clusters from the sun, water the vineyards in the summer and to use little or no wood at all in vinification.In terms of grapes, there are around 3,300ha planted with vineyards.

Of these, the largest part is Malbec (1,300ha) followed by Torrontés (970ha), a white grape that here produces floral wines of super-intense aromas and creamy textures. Cabernet Sauvignon follows, with about 500ha, while other grapes such as Bonarda, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Tannat are rare.

For its part, while the star-turn Malbec always offers sweet, soft tannins, in the Calchaquí Valleys this is enhanced, showing a creaminess that’s not only tempting, but also very commercial.

The Cabernet Sauvignon, meanwhile, tends to have a marked herbal accent, along with powerful and firm tannins, sometimes close to rusticity. So many producers want to provide harder bones for their Malbec, choosing to add some Cabernet.

The few examples of tannic grapes such as Tannat or Petit Verdot seem to behave very well in the high extremes of the north, offering freshness allied to a structure firm enough to sustain this fruit maturity.

More generous and intense than the Argentinian reds to which we are accustomed, the wines of the north offer a warm and generous style, ideal to enjoy during the winter days that are coming before long.

Patricio’s top Calchaquí Valley red wines:

You might also like:

Expert’s Choice: Argentinian Cabernet

Fine wines to know from Chile and Argentina

After eight months of negotiation, O Fournier winery in Argentina has been sold to the Agostino family for an undisclosed amount.

O Fournier sale: Uco Valley winery changes hands

The distinctive O Fournier winery in Mendoza’s Uco Valley was the brainchild of former-banker José Manuel Ortega who also owns wineries in Chile and Spain.

Ortega purchased 263 hectares in the early 2000s and reportedly invested over €20 million on the state-of-the-art winery and vineyards to produce labels including Alpha Crux, B Crux and Urban Uco.

The vineyards and winery, with a capacity of 1.2 million litres, were purchased by the Agostino family in early March 2018 following a long period of negotiation. The deal will almost double the family’s total vineyard property.

The Argentine-Canadian family of four brothers – Vincenzo, Rosalía, Sebastian and Miguel Agostino – have been producing wine in Mendoza since 2005 in their Maipu winery, Finca Agostino.

See also: Decanter’s travel guide for Uco Valley

Finca Agostino (which has a 3 million litre capacity) is adjacent to the four brothers’ 205-hectare vineyard estate in Barrancas.

The family also owns 50 hectares of vineyards in La Consulta, in addition to the newly acquired estate.

O Fournier’s long-serving winemaker José Spisso will continue to manage the O Fournier vineyards and wine production for the new owners, and the Wine Partners property investment scheme (launched by O Fournier in 2012) is set to continue.

The purchase did not include O Fournier’s estates in Maule, Chile, or in Ribera del Duero, Spain.

Move over Malbec – Cabernet Sauvignon is making a name for itself in Argentina. Alistair Cooper MW selects 18 bottles that reveal the grape’s considerable potential...

In boxing parlance, Malbec is the undisputed heavyweight champion of Argentina, a title it has held for many years. Its closest contenders are Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon.

Despite Bonarda’s significant plantings, it can’t compete in the same division. So what kind of shape is Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon in at the moment, and just how well can it perform?The flavour profile of Cabernet Sauvignon on the eastern side of the Andes is quite distinct to that of neighbouring Chile, where deep cassis, spice-laden, often minty styles are found.

In Argentina, with its continental climate, Cabernet tends to be rounder, softer and more velvety, often with a hit of ripe red fruit and morello cherry.When they are done well, the wines can be deeply aromatic and sensual, almost Napa-esque, as opposed to the firmer styles of Bordeaux or Coonawarra.

One of the main issues is that Cabernet in Argentina has not always been given the respect and care it requires. It’s hard not to form the impression that a number of producers in Argentina may have taken their eye off the Cabernet ball in the past.

All too often we saw overripe, jammy wines given heavy oak treatment (often new) resulting in wines lacking both structure and freshness and feeling overtly woody.

The key here is harvest date – overripe wines will always accentuate oak influence and flavours. Grapes that are harvested a little earlier (or at the correct time) can absorb and handle oak better, and the resulting wines will have a better frame and structure. Therefore, especially in riper vintages, producers must adapt oaking regimes – perhaps using older oak, as well as different vessels.

Fortunately, there is a growing band of winemakers who are beginning to focus on Cabernet, and are doing exactly this – using less new oak, a higher percentage of second and third-use barrels, as well as old foudres and concrete eggs. Some producers are harvesting Cabernet up to a month earlier than they were only five or six years ago.

Slowly these wines are trickling onto the market and some are of excellent quality. Another significant development is that of sub-regional diversity and the emergence of more terroir-driven wines.

Historically the lower level zones to the south of Mendoza were the best Cabernet lands. They continue to produce some excellent examples, especially the stony, loamy gravel soils of Perdriel, and the alluvial sandy-loam of Agrelo.

Arguably however, it is the higher altitude areas of the Uco Valley that are stealing the show. Gualtallary and Altamira (along with Vista Flores) are producing wines that combine power and elegance with minerality and tense, finely chiselled tannins.

There is a slow but sure movement towards more elegant examples of single-varietal Cabernet. Already some of the country’s greatest wines are blends featuring Cabernet and Malbec, the two varieties working in harmony with impressive results. So it’s fair to say that, despite being the underdog, Cabernet deserves its turn in the ring with the mighty Malbec.

Alistair’s top 18 Argentinian Cabernets:

Related content:

• 12 exciting Argentinian wines under £25

• Fine wines to know from Chile and Argentina