Alex Hunt MW, Roger Jones and Beth Pearce MW tasted 80 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

80 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 39

Commended 9

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, 100% Chardonnay still wines produced in any of Australia’s cool-climate regions

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our cool-climate Australian Chardonnay panel tasting

Regionality on show

It has been said that Chardonnay represents one of the clearest and most precise lenses through which we can view terroir, and this impressive tasting offered ample evidence to support that assertion.

The affinity between Australia and Chardonnay is well established, of course, so expectations were high before this tasting.

On the other hand, however, there have been times when this particular lens has proved to be ill-focused, with regional differences blurred either by too-obvious winemaking or by the terroir-masking fallacy of early picking.

Not so on this occasion, with all three of the judges discovering commendably distinct regional expressions.

Beth Pearce MW commented that ‘more than ever, the wines seem to be showing a sense of place rather than simply reflecting the winemakers’ preferences for reduction and/or ripeness’.

This would be academic were the wines not delicious, but happily there was much to enjoy here on a hedonistic level, too.

Roger Jones noted: ‘It was good to see high marks from across the regions,’ and the fact that 40% of entries scored 90 points or above demonstrates that our high expectations were borne out.

A rich and diverse palette

The most reliably excellent region was Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, with wines that combined beguiling texture with a zesty energy and an ability to age.

Jones observed that wines from here ‘need a bit longer to evolve, but when they do, they certainly develop well, balancing perfume, gunflint as well as delicate ripe stone fruit’.

Meanwhile, Margaret River in Western Australia showcased its trademark blend of density, complexity and freshness, which Pearce found ‘very impressive, effortless in its power and quality, particularly in the 2023 vintage’.

At their best, Tasmania’s steely tension and the Burgundy-esque poise of the Yarra Valley in Victoria drew admiration from the panel, while the standout surprise was Geelong, another Victorian sub-region.

Pearce praised its ‘confident balance’, and the entries from here showed that regardless of whether the wines are from a young or more mature vintage,

Geelong offers a characteristic energy, grip and aromatic profile that combine to make these some of the country’s most thrilling expressions of the Chardonnay grape.

What to eat with cool-climate Australian Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

Chardonnay is such a blissful pairing for so many dishes that the only question is, how far do you push the boat out with the food?

With the lovely acidity of these cool-climate wines, seafood would be my first port of call, especially for younger vintages – I’m particularly thinking in terms of grilled lobster, langoustines and seared scallops, or a luxurious fish pie.

Chicken, of course, is another reliable go-to. A simply roasted bird with delicious, umami-rich, crisp skin would be heaven for older vintages, as would fried chicken (perhaps American-style rather than Korean), with a cream gravy – in fact, virtually anything creamy is spot-on with Chardonnay, especially when topped with pastry, as in a chicken pot pie. That might sound too homely, but simple is what to aim for with wines of this quality.

There are also, of course, vegetables that are particularly Chardonnay-friendly, such as corn, butternut squash (especially with sage) and braised fennel; and mushrooms, too (especially in a risotto). In short, tomato- and red wine-based sauces aside, it’s pretty hard to go wrong.

See all notes and scores from the cool-climate Australian Chardonnay tasting

The judges

Alex Hunt MW is purchasing director at London-based merchant Berkmann Wine Cellars. He became a Master of Wine in 2010, and was awarded the Bollinger Tasting Medal that year. A seasoned wine judge, his writing has appeared in a number of prominent titles, including Decanter

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge (including for DWWA) and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities

Beth Pearce MW is the recently appointed head of buying at Flint Wines. Her extensive experience in the wine industry includes roles in retail and buying at Majestic and most recently buying director at Lay & Wheeler

Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon vintage rating: 5/5

A classic year for Cabernet, slightly on the warmer side; aromatics and vibrancy coupled with structure to go the distance.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

The 2021 and 2022 vintages in Margaret River were like chalk and cheese when it comes to Cabernet.

Across the board, 2022 was a great year in Margaret River. It didn’t matter which end of the 213,000ha region you looked at.

From the northernmost vineyards in Yallingup, through to the southernmost plantings in Karridale (about 100km away), the conditions provided minimum challenges to vignerons and ideal ripening conditions for Margaret River’s Cabernet-based red wines.

Fifty-five wines were submitted in this category, and those not included in the final report were largely still good, if not very good, wines.

Those wines that reached greater heights offered finesse and complexity, elegance and nuance, vibrant acidity and fully ripe tannins, as well as a distinct personality in the glass. Of course, wines must also be balanced, have sizeable length and a well-defined structure.

We are talking about Cabernet, after all. If I were to define 2022 in one sentence, it would be highly aromatic and well-structured with plenty of vibrancy.

Pure Cabernet potential

‘Great wines don’t come from perfect weather. They come from consistent flowering, healthy vines, and harmony in the vineyard,’ says Cullen Wines’ Vanya Cullen.

While the season was warm, it was largely a calm one for Cabernet growers, thanks to an even pace of development from flowering, to uniform fruit set and on to a warm summer.

Keith Mugford at Moss Wood adds: ‘On Boxing Day, the temperature hit 41.2°C, our hottest day since 1985, followed by a balmy 24°C night. It was a summer of extremes. Despite the heat, ripening remained steady.’

These drier conditions assisted with disease pressure and a good concentration of flavour in the fruit, and with the ability for winemakers to make considered decisions.

‘We let the fruit hang a little longer in 2022, intentionally, to build flavour. Acidity holds in Margaret River, so we could afford to wait,’ says Flametree Wines’ Cliff Royale.

For Phil Hutchison, Senior Winemaker at Leeuwin Estate, the key word for the 2022 vintage is consistency. He explains: ‘2022 gave us one of the most consistent Cabernet harvests in recent memory. Everything just lined up: the weather, the ripeness, the tannin.’

It’s a word also used by Domaine Naturaliste’s Bruce Dukes, who says: ‘2022 was a clean, consistent year. No real pest pressure, no extreme heat, no rush, just pure Cabernet potential.’

Decanter vintage ratings – Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon

2021 3/5: A cooler year with summer rain. Still, wines of beauty and understated elegance from those who were proactive in vineyard management.

2020 5/5: A benchmark year. Near-perfect conditions for Cabernet, it would have taken mismanagement to miss the mark.

2019 4/5: A slightly cooler year, with great, elegant wines of nuanced complexity, starting to shine with time in the bottle.

2018 5/5: Another of the most recent great, classic years in Margaret River. A mild spring followed by a warm and consistent summer ensured good yields and great flavour.

2017 4/5: Slightly cooler conditions with no heat extremes. The best wines are finely detailed and show finesse and longevity.

Vintage comparisons

The vintage has been compared to several other classic vintages, including 2018. ‘It’s probably not as structural,’ says Hutchison. ‘It’s not a blockbuster year, it’s a classical year. And those are often the ones that stand the test of time.’

‘It reminds me of 2019 or even 2012 – a vintage that may not shout early on, but will go the distance in the cellar,’ explains Cherubino.

It’s also a vintage that has taken time to find its voice. ‘It was a quiet vintage,’ explains Cullen. ‘Not loud and showy, but deeply expressive if you take the time to listen.’

Good things come to those who wait, as they say, and the 2022 Cabernets are drinking beautifully at this point.

Stylistic evolutions

While there are regional and producer differences, overall these wines show a more youthful approachability and less oak influence than previous years.

‘Our 2022 Cabernet didn’t see any new oak at all; it just didn’t need it,’ states Cherubino.

A vintage of excellence means less work in the winery.

Fraser Gallop’s Ellin Tritt (pictured, above) sums it up: ‘It was one of those vintages that just flowed. No big challenges, just a joy to work with. The tannins were ripe, the berries were concentrated, and the wines are looking fabulous now.’

Click here for more reviews of the Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignons

Margaret River 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

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Margaret River 2023 Chardonnay vintage rating: 5+/5

A ‘perfect’ year for Chardonnay, unanimously considered to be one of the greatest vintages of the past decade.

Chardonnay 2023

If 2022 was a great year for Margaret River Chardonnay, then 2023 proved to be exceptional, thanks to consistent quality across the board.

Wineries that craft reliably excellent wines continued to do so, while ‘solid’ producers were gifted brilliant conditions to elevate their wines.

From a total of 73 wines submitted for tasting, an astonishingly high proportion achieved gold medal level (95-points in Decanter terms) or higher.

And while we can only publish a selection of them here, it’s worth noting that few entries were lower than a silver (90-94pts).

I don’t consider myself a generous scorer, but I’ve given these wines multiple passes and found them expressive, powerful, textural and complex, with persistence and an excellent line of fruit.

Looking for nuance

Undoubtedly, the 2023 Chardonnays are some of the Margaret River region’s best yet – and it’s a vibrant vintage in its youth. I’ve tasted some of these previously, and they’ve unfurled further with just a few more months in bottle.

While many possess fruit sweetness, delicacy and power, in tasting them I was particularly on the lookout for nuance.

Chardonnay is often referred to as a ‘winemaker’s grape’ for good reason, so a diversity of style is justified, as long as there is respect for the fruit, a sense of place in the wine, balance, harmony and clarity.

Margaret River doesn’t struggle for acidity (especially when the Gingin clone is concerned), and philosophies vary on malolactic fermentation, oak regimes and the use of solids in the winemaking process.

Regardless of philosophy, the techniques and choices in the winery should enhance rather than distract, and integrate to complete the wine’s story.

The greatest iterations have an unbreakable harmony and seamlessness to them.

Decanter vintage ratings – Margaret River Chardonnay

2022 5/5: A fantastic year on the warmer side. Effortless, though picking dates proved crucial and yields varied.

2021 4/5: The best wines are outstanding, however there were challenges with rain events and labour shortages due to COVID-19 which didn’t ensure a smooth vintage for all.

2020 5/5: An early, warm, and dry vintage with little disease or pest pressure. Low yields and high quality meant allocations were tight for those in demand.

2019 4/5: A late vintage and little Marri blossom proved challenging for yields, however cooler conditions favoured Chardonnay with intense fruit and acid retention.

2018 4/5: A classic, warm and dry year, providing long hang time. Cabernet Sauvignon really shone this year, but Chardonnay wasn’t far behind.

Conditions & comparisons

While Margaret River is lucky to enjoy a relatively consistent Mediterranean-type climate, the term ‘dream vintage’ has been used by multiple winemakers for 2023. ‘It’s probably one of the standout vintages of the last 25 years,’ says Larry Cherubino of Cherubino Wines.

Growing conditions were near perfect, with even flowering, consistent fruit set and moderate summer temperatures allowing gentle and even ripening.

There were no weather events, there was low disease and pest pressure, decent yields, a wet spring and well-timed top-up rains.

In comparison to other recent vintages, Cliff Royale of Flametree Wines explains: ‘2022 sits just behind 2023 (see vintage box below). Not because it wasn’t good, just because 2023 was exceptional.’

‘We’ve had three great vintages in a row – 2021, 2022, 2023 – ascending in terms of concentration of fruit and balance,’ adds Vanya Cullen of Cullen Wines (pictured, below).

‘2023 had elegance, balance and fruit power, and was great straight away. Whereas 2022 was more reserved.’

‘2023 was a graceful vintage,’ concludes Phil Hutchison, Leeuwin Estate. ‘I think it showcases this beautiful fruit purity, beautiful aromatics.

‘It’s one of those vintages that is going to be talked about a lot more down the track. It will easily be in the top five of the last 20 years, without doubt.’

Looking ahead

Margaret River is a wine region that produces two per cent of the nation’s total wine production, yet this is almost all premium production.

There’s no question that Margaret River is a name that should shine on the international stage.

However, let’s remember that premium does not equal heavy. One evolution I would like to see continue is that of lighter bottles on the tasting table.

While several wineries have made the jump to lightweight, there is scope for the figure to increase substantially in the coming years.

Click here for more reviews of the Margaret River 2023 Chardonnays

Margaret River 2023 Chardonnay

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Warren and Gillian Lilleyman had no idea what they were doing when they planted a vineyard in Margaret River in southwest Western Australia in 1988.

The first vines in the region had only gone in the ground two decades earlier.

Like the region’s pioneer Tom Cullity, Warren was a doctor – an amateur enthusiast with no prior experience in the world of wine. And yet the couple – who live next to the vineyard and still own it – planted a near-perfect parcel of vines.

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Maintaining a rich legacy

‘They just nailed it,’ says Theo Truyts – he and his wife Clare Trythall are the current custodians of the 2.7ha site.

Although the Lilleymans received some guidance from Dr Mike Peterkin (who founded nearby Pierro winery and planted the first vines there in 1980), there seems to have been a lot of luck involved.

Perched on a gentle slope, with richer soils at the foot turning into poorer gravel-loam as you cross the vineyard, it sits at the northwestern edge of Wooditjup National Park, not far outside the town of Margaret River itself.

The vines, many of which are now more than 35 years old, are producing exceptional fruit – in particular Chardonnay (all GinGin, the most common clone in Margaret River, which produces berries of various sizes, lending particular concentration and complexity to wine), but also tiny parcels of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Semillon.

Right place, right time

But the vineyard very nearly disappeared. For a decade, it was leased by Pierro, where Theo used to work, and he saw the quality of fruit the site produced year in, year out.

When he heard in May 2019 that Pierro was giving it up, the vineyard’s fate was uncertain.

The site is painstaking to farm, with the relatively tight 1m x 1.8m vine spacing (reflective of Peterkin’s approach at Pierro) meaning that everything has to be done by hand.

‘It’s just close enough that you can’t do anything with a machine,’ says Theo, laughing. And the age of the vines means the yields are low. Few find such a challenge economically appealing. Theo, however, did.

He firmly believed that it was an important part of Margaret River’s wine heritage that shouldn’t be lost.

Clare evidently knew what was coming (‘You were primed,’ she says, smiling as she recalls her husband’s predictability) and together they decided to take the plunge: they signed the lease, thereby securing the site’s future, and created Trait Wines with the 2019 vintage.

Hard graft

Born in South Africa, Theo has made wine around the world (his impressive CV includes names such as Yves Cuilleron in the northern Rhône, Hartford Family in California and Vasse Felix in Margaret River, alongside Pierro) and settled in Margaret River for good after meeting Clare, who’s British but was born in Japan and spent her early years in Asia, with parents in the shipping trade.

Theo still works full-time at Wildberry Springs, while Clare remains a doctor in emergency medicine – and then there’s the small matter of three young boys and Bertie, the adorably scruffy Labradoodle that completes the family.

Soon after they took the site on, the pandemic hit – not exactly easing them into the project. In late 2020, Theo, Clare and her sister Laura grafted 0.3ha of Sauvignon Blanc over to Chardonnay by hand.

Without the usual influx of labour at the subsequent harvest, Clare recruited medical students to come help pick, bussing them in from Busselton further north. Theo set to work nurturing the site and its soils, which are already showing a notable uptick in health.

The Trait approach is, in a word, ‘pragmatic’: working with what they can to make the most of the vineyard, which is almost entirely worked by hand.

They’re buying in additional parcels to make a little red and rosé, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, so far, to complement the whites made from their own vines.

The winemaking is, Theo tells me, ‘supersimple’. Everything they do is about letting the site shine through – while also wanting to make sure that their wines can age.

Proudly independent

Trait doesn’t have its own winery – the wines are currently made at Aravina Estate in Yallingup.

Theo and Clare are not bankrolled by other ventures or outside investors; the funding here is all blood, sweat and tears. Pair all of that with a special vineyard and you have something rather extraordinary.

The way in which the duo talks about the vineyard and the winemaking reveals just how much they care about the project – and how much they’re pouring into it.

And the results are already exciting. They may only be producing 10,000 bottles a year in all, but the wines are rapidly earning a reputation in Australia – and soon, no doubt, beyond.

Trait Wines’ flagship Chardonnay:

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As we wade through the sticky, sultry dog days of summer, the allure of cool and refreshing drinks becomes not just more tantalising, but necessary.

And perhaps you’re currently feeling a little jaded by just the one style of wine you’ve been drinking over the past few weeks, too hot and bothered to muster up the brain power to try anything else.

A long, hot summer can be an awfully long time to constantly drink just the one rosé after all.

So if you’re stuck in a summer rut, here are three top tips to find something else to shake up your summer evenings and languid days by the pool.

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1. Wines made by the sea

It sounds obvious or perhaps rather silly, but wines made from coastal regions really do seem to have the juice when it comes to the best styles of wines for summer sipping.

Is it the varieties’ intrinsic nature? Does proximity to the sea really give them a salty tang?

Are winemakers in these areas just more clued-in to the style of wines that work best with your feet in the sand and the roar of the surf in your ears?

Maybe a mix of it all?

Either way, there’s no doubt that if you want a great wine for the summer, think of places beside the sea as a good starting place.

There are loads of wines which just scream summer and beach holidays, accompanied by fresh seafood.

There’s Vinho Verde from northern Portugal, Txakoli from Spain’s Basque country, Muscadet from the Loire.

Heading into the Mediterranean we have the refreshing salty lick of Manzanilla Sherry, the herbal freshness of Xarel-lo in Catalonia, brisk Picpoul de Pinet and pale rosé from the southern French coast, stony Vermentino from Sardinia and Tuscany and the kaleidoscope of varieties from the Greek islands.

2. The faraway Mediterranean

And that’s just Europe we’ve been talking about. But don’t forget that much of the winemaking world operates on the same principals and proximity to the ocean in the warmer climes of the Americas, Africa and Antipodes is often essential to help moderate the temperature.

As such, a great many non-European regions are also seaside wines par excellence.

This is particularly true when many of these Mediterranean-esque regions are also producing wines made from grape varieties you’d expect to find in Europe, such as Albariño – which has seen an increase in worldwide plantings in recent years.

Large chunks of California, the Chilean littoral, the Cape in South Africa, Western and South Australia and the islands of New Zealand are great places for crisp and refreshing whites made from Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Semillon and so forth.

3. Beyond Provence

Finally, a word on rosé. Provence set the bar years ago with its brilliantly pale and limpid pinks.

These boosted rosé from being one of the has-been afterthoughts of global viticulture to a runaway hype-train of luxury labels and copycats.

But popularity comes at a price and Provence is now at a premium. However, you don’t have to look far to find wines that are essentially identical.

Both the nearby Languedoc and Roussillon produce extremely delicious rosés in much the same style as Provence and with the same grapes but for a fraction of the price.

Indeed, such has been the impact of pale Provence rosé, that around Europe and the world, you can now find your desire for chillable pink fulfilled by pretty much every country and region mentioned above.

Remember that Liz Gabay MW gives us a rundown each year not only of her pick of the latest Provence rosé releases, but her selection of the best rosés from around the world.

Below is a selection perfect summer white and rosé wines that have been tasted recently by the Decanter team or one of our esteemed experts.

With any luck it’ll give you some extra inspiration for something new to put in the fridge before the summer is through.

Decanter Cellar: 25 white and rosé wines for summer

Wines are listed white then rosé in score order

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The 2025 harvest is over in Margaret River, and while there’s still plenty of action in the winery, now’s the time of year when many new wines are released.

Margaret River’s two iconic varieties are Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and the flagship releases are highly anticipated.

The quality of recent and upcoming new releases speak for themselves, and though many of these scores are high, they are well-earned.

Vintages range from 2021 to 2024, as there is no prescribed programme in the region for ageing and/or releasing wine.

The freedom enables diversity, economic considerations, and a wide berth of winemaking choices. Museum releases have not been considered in this line-up.

Scroll down for the notes on the latest releases from the icon wines of Margaret River

Regional overview: Wilyabrup

Wilyabrup is in the central area of Margaret River, and reaches from the coastline inland, flanked by Yallingup to the north and Wallcliffe to the south.

This is the heart of Cabernet country, and where many of the founding wineries of Margaret River are located.

Moss Wood

The first vines were planted at Moss Wood in 1969, making this the second-oldest estate in Margaret River.

The family-owned and run winery has been in the hands of Clare and Keith Mugford since the mid-1980s, with their sons, Tristan and Hugh, continuing the family legacy as winemakers and viticulturists.

The 2022 vintage was a warm and dry year. Keith says: ‘The warm season ensured consistent ripeness, so the wine displays the vineyard’s typically dark fruit aromas.

‘The palate certainly has the expected key feature of concentrated but balanced tannin, all enhanced by the prettier fragrances which we attribute to the cooler final weeks in March. Very few have been better.’

Woodlands Wines

Less than a kilometre south, Woodlands is another estate established early in Margaret River’s history.

First planted in 1973 by David and Heather Watson, the business has grown over time with additional plantings and vineyard acquisitions, but still crafts its iconic Cabernet Sauvignon from these original vines.

The family-owned winery is now in the hands of the next generation, sons Andrew and Stuart. The 2020 Margaret is the current release, and the warmer year shows substantially more approachability to the wine in its youth with invitingly plush fruit.

However, I predict the cooler characteristics of the new 2021 release will show their full potential with more time, as the fine backbone of structure is there.

Cullen Wines

Cullen Wines is another founding Margaret River winery. Winemaker, viticulturist and general manager, Vanya Cullen is the daughter of Wilyabrup agricultural pioneers Diana and Kevin Cullen.

The oldest vines (planted in 1971) are mature and dry-grown, and the winery has been one of Australia’s leaders in organic and biodynamic practices.

These new releases are some of the youngest, yet the wines have some of the longest lifespans amongst the region’s icons, retaining freshness and energy.

While 2023 was an outstanding year for Margaret River, the 2024 harvest was unprecedented with regards to timing – it was the earliest on record – heat, dryness and pace.

Vanya says: ‘The wines are looking great, in particular, the Chardonnay surprises because of its delicacy. The 2024 wines are all very fine, aromatic and fragrant; while all of the 2023s are incredibly textural.’

Vasse Felix

Dr Tom Cullity planted the first Vasse Felix vines in 1967, and the Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec blend that bears his name is inspired by his vision and original plantings.

The cooler conditions in 2021 were challenging for some, but the best reds from the vintage are abundant in perfume and detail.

‘The 2021 has grown into itself, and suddenly it has a beautiful, silky succulence,’ explains chief winemaker Virginia Willcock, who has been at the helm since 2006.

‘It still has that lovely dry framework at the finish, but it’s almost like the tannins of the Malbec and the oak have brought the palate out and framed this beautiful plumpness, with length and depth,’ she adds.

The Heytesbury is the winery’s flagship Chardonnay, with the Single Site offering a site-specific expression.

Regional overview: Wallcliffe

A little further south, Wallcliffe is where the other main cluster of Margaret River’s most famed wineries is located.

Boodjidup Creek is a waterway that runs out to the Indian Ocean. Several top vineyards and wineries are centred around the creek.

Leeuwin Estate

Leeuwin Estate is one of Australia’s most accoladed wineries and is now three generations deep. The initial vines were planted in 1975 by Denis and Tricia Horgan, after consultation and mentorship from Napa’s Robert Mondavi.

The 1981 Art Series Chardonnay was highly recommended by Decanter in a blind tasting, an accolade that thrusted the winery onto the international stage.

The Chardonnay programme at Leeuwin has been in the spotlight for decades; however, increased attention and investment in the estate’s Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz production in recent years is starting to reap rewards.

Voyager Estate

Next door, Voyager Estate is certified organic, and its chief winemaker Tim Shand joined the ranks in 2022.

The MJW is named after the estate’s late patriarch, Michael Wright, with the 2021 vintage a testament to the organic and viticultural resources and careful fruit selection from the North Block and the Old Block.

The southern Wallcliffe vineyards can be risky for Cabernet in cooler vintages, as Shand explains. ‘There’s no hiding with Cabernet, and to me it comes back to viticulture,’ he says.

The 2021 vintage saw a long hang time for this fruit, and the result is clear. There’s plenty of oak here, but the fruit can handle it, and this has a long life ahead of it.

Stella Bella

Stuart Pym and Janice McDonald took over the Suckfizzle Vineyard – Margaret River’s most southerly vineyard – in 1996, establishing the Stella Bella label in 1999.

Stella Bella’s flagship wines have risen in recognition over recent years, and it would be remiss to bypass them as some of the most prominent iterations of the Margaret River’s iconic varieties.

The Luminosa, in particular, is a vineyard that produces wines of power and clarity, as seen in the 2023 reds.

McHenry Hohnen

The three single-site Chardonnays produced by McHenry Hohnen are unique and provide a fantastic opportunity to taste a few different subregional specifics.

The estate’s wines have evolved with the maturity of the vines, largely biodynamic vineyard management, and with winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani at the helm for almost 10 years.

‘These Chardonnays are some of the best we have produced,’ he says.

‘In 2023, Mother Nature gave us a very nice gift. The fruit looked great, it had a lot of power, and the chemistry was right in check. The Chardonnays took the new oak and the solids well that year, turning into very complex, rich, but balanced wines.’

Margaret River icons: Latest releases

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Outside of Bordeaux, there aren’t many wine regions producing Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, yet this white wine is a hallmark of Margaret River.

Perhaps it’s due to the incredible heights to which Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have risen that the region’s white Bordeaux blends are tucked away in their shadows. 

Notes and scores for 10 outstanding Margaret River Semillon-Sauvignon blends below

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from this part of the world date back as far back as the first plantings of Margaret River Chardonnay.

The Margaret River wine region emerged in the late 1960s, following the work of Dr John Gladstones, an agronomist at the University of Western Australia. His research in 1965 and 1966 first proposed the suitability of Margaret River for viticulture.

This prompted the region’s founding commercial wineries (Vasse Felix, followed by Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle and Cullen) to plant vineyards here, with planting material (on its rootstock) sourced from what was available via the state’s Agricultural Department. 

Riesling was the first white-wine variety planted in the region, but it eventually proved less than ideal for this maritime climate. The first Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in 1976, and in 2020 the area under vine for white wines comprised 15.8% Semillon, 19.2% Sauvignon Blanc and 17.8% Chardonnay.

Cabernet Sauvignon leads the reds, with 20.9% of the total vineyard area. 

Looking back

Vanya Cullen, chief winemaker and managing director at Cullen, recalls: ‘Mum chose the varieties to plant. She always loved the blend, while Dad was more of a Chardonnay man. We planted Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc in 1976 in the Cullen vineyard; they’re dry-farmed and the vineyard was certified biodynamic in 2004.’ 

The 1979 vintage was Cullen’s first from these vines. Rather than bottle each variety separately, they produced the region’s (and most likely the country’s) first Semillon-Sauvignon blend. The 1979 Cullen Semillon-Sauvignon was an immediate success, taking home a trophy at the Perth Royal Wine Show.

Mike Peterkin, who founded Pierro Winery in 1979, comments: ‘It was just a logical step to combine them both when the vines were ready for their first crop. The concept wasn’t particularly original; it was borrowed, but not modelled on, the French blend.

‘The Bordelais at the time were mainly red winemakers and to some extent, the white blend was an afterthought except for a couple of the top châteaux, who gave it special attention. Those wines were generally matured in oak, whereas our focus was capturing the fruit characters, which Australia was so good at doing.’

Spreading roots

The blend grew in popularity in the region, thanks to the complementary qualities of the two varieties and the perfect growing conditions for each. ‘Our founder (John Gladstone) did very well in identifying the climate and soil similarities to Bordeaux, and I would like to think it’s that long, gentle season that allows those varieties to get to a lovely and full physiological ripeness’, says Bruce Dukes of Domaine Naturaliste. 

Demand from consumers followed; the Margaret River white blend was enjoyed by Western Australian drinkers and was also popular in Sydney, on Australia’s east coast. The wine was practically made for a lifestyle of warm summers and coastal living. 

The boom reached peak popularity in the mid- to late-1990s, with production increasing to meet demand. Margaret River’s success led other wine regions to copy the same blend, but few succeeded, without the unique conditions of Western Australia’s south west that help these varieties grow so well. 

Although the blend goes back almost 50 years in Margaret River, ‘people forget that – although Semillon has a long history in Australia – there wasn’t much Sauvignon Blanc planted [in the country] at that time’ says Peterkin.

‘When I was studying winemaking at Roseworthy in the late 1970s, Hardy’s had some planted in McLaren Vale, to put into a sweet wine. That was the only Sauvignon Blanc in Australia then. It was starting to be planted in places like Margaret River, obviously, but it wasn’t the ubiquitous variety that it is now.’

Distinctive style

So, what makes a Margaret River Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend? Firstly the combination of Semillon’s ageability and Sauvignon Blanc’s freshness and aromatics are an ideal match. The best bottles can be enjoyed in their youth, with the capacity to develop for 10-plus years. 

The blend may have been borrowed from Bordeaux, but the Australian iteration is distinctive and has evolved and diversified from the early days. Dukes has called Margaret River home for 34 years and is a fan of the blend.

His passion for the region’s Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, has played a key role in the more textural wines produced from the variety in recent years. 

‘I think we’ve seen changes over time,’ he says. ‘In the early days, it was largely an aromatic, crisp, fresh style that was being produced, focusing on flavour and ripeness. With a greater understanding of these varieties in the vineyard, we are now getting more aromatic wines with better natural acid balance,’ Dukes adds.

Winemaking and viticulture

‘Over the last 20 years of this style, I think we also have a much better understanding of the use of oak, mainly seasoned oak, and the advantages or characters we can get from sur lie maturation. The region has become more confident, and people have explored these techniques and seen how they work well stylistically. We are seeing more sophistication across the board now than a couple of decades ago’, concludes Dukes.

As the vines have matured, so has the viticultural approach. Dukes shares his journey: ‘Over the past few decades as a winemaker, I have learned much about canopy architecture. It’s about flavour farming in the vineyard – achieving ripeness and flavour without going too far beyond that into over-ripeness,’ he explains.

‘Previously, if you were seeking intensity of flavour, you would have to get fruit riper, but now we understand the overall balance is more important than the individual component. The aim is to avoid the capsicums and thistles, and get those lovely notes of lychee, white pear and nectarine.’

Increasing diversity

The blend’s identity has progressed since the early days, and there is now a wide range of styles available in the region, including those with proven ability to age beautifully. Skin contact and lees work are regularly utilised to build texture and complexity. Many producers choose to use oak, in either supporting or significant roles. 

Wines such as Dormilona’s Orenji show that the blend lends itself to creative winemaking choices. In this case, the fruit is co-fermented on skins for two weeks in open fermenters, spends time in cement egg and then is pressed to go through full malo. 

Some producers add a dash of a third variety, such as Chardonnay or Verdelho. 

Cullen began making a white Bordeaux blend from its Mangan vineyard in 2006, with the inclusion of Verdelho. Cullen recalls: ‘We made separate vineyard blends once our vineyards were certified biodynamic.

‘The Mangan’s strength as a vineyard is about fruit vitality with the addition of the Verdelho and no oak. In contrast, the older vines on the Cullen vineyard can handle more time in oak, about 70%, with the Sauvignon Blanc dominant in the blend. Overnight skin contact and biodynamics are our two major points of evolution.’ 

Several other producers have chosen to add a dash of the region’s calling card, Chardonnay. They include Cath Oates at Oates Ends and Peterkin at Pierro. 

Winning new fans

Peterkin notes: ‘Sydney has seen a recent resurgence of interest in the Margaret River white blends. I think people are starting to look for something slightly different from [varietal] Chardonnay. Our LTC is still a relatively expensive wine in its category, but at that price point, people can buy an average Chardonnay or enjoy a Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc that is really very good quality.’ 

Given their maturity, quality and identity, perhaps it is time to refer to these world-class white blends as the Margaret River White Blend, dropping any reference to Bordeaux altogether. The wines, after all, speak for themselves.

‘They are the dark horses of the portfolio; they do age really, really well,’ shares Cullen. ‘You can have texture, complexity and deliciousness in the blends, as well as longevity and drinkability. People are blown away when they taste them, because they can be a die-hard Chardonnay drinker, and they’ll go, “Oh, wow, that’s incredible. I didn’t think I liked Sauvignon Blanc, but I love that!”’

Margaret River white Bordeaux-style blends: 12 to try

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For Decanter’s inaugural Margaret River vintage report, producers were asked to submit wines from the 2021 vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnays from 2022, which were all then tasted blind.

While the 2022 whites shone, the 2021 reds reflected the cooler and somewhat challenging vintage conditions many faced, including unusual February rainfall.

Should a wine score be indicative of what’s typically expected of the region and variety, or is it fairer and more useful to look at the wine with fresh eyes and no preconceived ideas?

There are champions for both approaches; mine here is not to reprimand wines that don’t speak of typicity, if the hallmarks of a great wine are nonetheless there to be found.

Scroll down to see notes and for the leading Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay wines from the 2021 and 2022 vintages in Margaret River

Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Ask any Cabernet Sauvignon winemaker from Margaret River how 2021 was and it’s unlikely you’ll receive the same answer twice. Conditions in the Western Australian region were challenging, so sub-regional variation is evident in the resulting wines.

While not being official GIs (geographical indications), six sub-regions – (north to south) Yallingup, Carbunup, Wilyabrup, Treeton, Wallcliffe and Karridale – were proposed in a 1999 paper by the late Dr John Gladstones, a major pioneering influence in the region from the mid-1960s.

In light of the soil and climate differences upon which these six areas were delineated, marginal years such as 2021 highlight that it is impossible to paint the Margaret River appellation with broad strokes.

The Margaret River Wine Association lists 181 wineries producing a Margaret River GI wine, yet just 38 Cabernet Sauvignons were submitted to the tasting for this report.

‘A lot came down to the late stages in April 2021, with the moisture from the early morning dews. If you didn’t have vines set up with good exposure there was disease risk and difficulty ripening,’ says Eloise Jarvis, a consultant winemaker in the region.

Cabernet markers

A classic Margaret River Cabernet is medium-bodied, with firm tannins, energetic acidity, elegant perfume and generous black fruits, cassis, a mint or eucalyptus note, perhaps an umami edge on the palate and a delicate graphite thread.

The majority of 2021s sat firmly in the mid-bodied category, but with more red fruit than black, and many were paler in colour intensity than usual.

2021 is certainly a year that required more work and attention in the vineyard than usual to ensure fruit ripeness, with southern sub-regions facing the most marginal conditions.

Some well-regarded wineries chose not to produce their top cuvée. From those that did, there is beauty to be found.

To see all 70 of Cassandra Charlick’s Chardonnay recommendations click here, and for her 36 Cabernet Sauvignon wines to try here

Instead of intensity and concentration, there’s a finer-boned structure with bright acidity and delicate perfume leading to long-lived wines of complexity, nuance and elegance in the cellar.

‘The 2021 is a more elegant style of Cabernet based on the cooler season,’ says Hugh Mugford, winemaker and viticulturist at Moss Wood. ‘A strong acid backbone will allow it to evolve really well to the secondary characteristics after the 20-year mark.’

At Vasse Felix, chief winemaker Virginia Willcock agrees: ‘I love the more elegant vintages; they age a bit better and more slowly.’

The greatest wines here shine brightly, showing complexity, elegance and finesse, and they will age for a good 20 years or longer.

Margaret River: Decanter vintage ratings

Cabernet Sauvignon

2021: A cooler year with summer rain events proving challenging for some producers, especially those in the southern sub-regions. Still, wines of beauty and understated elegance from those who were proactive in vineyard management 3/5

2020: 5/5

2019: 3/5

2018: 5/5

2017: 4/5

Chardonnay

2022: A fantastic year, on the warmer side. Effortless, though picking dates proved crucial and yields varied 5/5

2021: 4/5

2020: 5/5

2019: 4/5

2018: 4/5

Chardonnay 2022

Meanwhile, there’s no doubt that 2022 was a great year for Margaret River Chardonnay. The Chardonnay tasting for this report drew in almost double the entries of the Cabernet section: a chasm that demonstrates the respective vintage conditions.

Thanks to a Mediterranean climate with maritime influence and ancient, well-draining soils, Margaret River Chardonnay is consistently among the greatest white wines of Australia.

2022 saw a long and wet winter with bud burst [typically occurring about mid-September] late by a week or two compared with the previous year, but a warm summer with a few heat spikes that ensured a fast harvest.

Indeed, at Xanadu Wines, chief winemaker Glenn Goodall recalls that, ‘in 2022 our Chardonnay picking window, for all Margaret River vineyards, was 14 days’, compared with 26 days in 2023.

‘Things ripened quickly in 2022, not just due to weather, but due to low yields,’ Goodall explains. This summer warmth shows in a measured opulence and intensity in the wines.

Julian Langworthy, Deep Woods Estate’s chief winemaker, comments: ‘After the cool but wet 2021 vintage, 2022 was one of our warmer vintages. Vine health was quite high without much disease pressure. There’s a lovely ripeness in the Chardy, but it’s not forced. It was a season that had a tight picking window – if you hit it you were well rewarded with expressive yet rich, poised wines.’

Gingin has its say

The low-yielding Gingin clone is foundational to the identity of Margaret River Chardonnay. ‘The 2022 Chardies are built to last due to intensity and acidity,’ says Goodall. ‘They have a long future ahead of them that is largely attributed to the phenolic structure of Gingin.’

There were no issues with ripening in 2022, so there was little need to utilise malolactic fermentation for adding flesh to the bones. There is a general trend towards larger-format oak and less use of new oak, however some outstanding producers still use a significant proportion of new oak, seamlessly integrating it with high-quality fruit to produce wines of immense longevity.

If there is one takeaway from this 2022 vintage report, it is that quality is consistent. With no appellation rules and much site diversity, Margaret River’s producers are constantly keen to learn more and create the best possible expression of Chardonnay in its Western Australian home.

The top wines exude harmony while expressing place and brimming with excitement, whether their personality charms or challenges.

Margaret River: 40 of the best from 2021 and 2022

Wines are ordered by colour then score.

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Gladstones was widely known as the ‘godfather of Margaret River’ after recognising the region’s vast potential back in 1966.

Two years ago, he was made an Officer in the Order of Australia in recognition of his distinguished service to viticulture and agriculture.

The Australian Wine Encyclopedia described Gladstones as ‘in the view of many, Australia’s foremost viticultural research scientist’.

His family said he ‘passed away peacefully’ and expressed their thanks ‘to the wonderful staff’ of Carine Parkside Care Community for their care and support.

They described him as ‘a proud West Australian and a loving and loyal husband to Pat’, who leaves ‘a remarkable legacy in agricultural and viticultural research’.

Gladstones determined that Margaret River was blessed with similar terroir to Bordeaux after he conducted pioneering research in 1966.

At the time, he wrote: ‘Being virtually frost-free, and having a much lower ripening period, cloudiness, rainfall and hail risk than Manjimup and Mount Barker, it has distinct advantages over both those areas, and indeed over all other Australian wine districts with comparable temperature summations.

‘Not only should excellent quality be obtainable with choice grape varieties, but the district might also be very suitable because of its equable climate for higher-yielding, but still good quality varieties, such as Shiraz and Semillon.’

One year later, Vasse Felix planted the first commercial vineyard in Margaret River, followed by Moss Wood in 1969 and Cullen Wines in 1971.

There are now 200 producers in the region, with approximately 6,000ha under vine, according to the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association.

While it only accounts for around 2% of Australia’s annual crush, Margaret River is now widely regarded as one of the world’s leading fine wine regions, with a reputation for producing high-end Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends.

Some estimates have suggested that it accounts for around 20% of Australia’s ‘premium’ wine sales.

Gladstones knew Margaret River had the potential for greatness, but he was surprised by how rapidly the region delivered upon that potential.

‘I was quite amazed how quickly it happened,’ he said in a radio interview on 6PR Breakfast in 2022. ‘Now Margaret River is one of the world’s great wine producing areas.’

His family said: ‘A private family funeral will be held, to be followed by a celebration at a later date. Remembered with love, Helen and Patrick, Rob and Lucie, Hannah and Zoe.’

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Family is fundamental to many in the world of wine. But few wineries embrace the celebration of family lineage and legacy to the degree that Cullen Wines does. The Margaret River vineyard was founded by Dr Kevin John Cullen and Diana Madeline Cullen in 1971, with the adjacent Mangan Vineyard planted between 1995 and 1997.

Fruit from both vineyards continues to contribute to some of the region’s most iconic wines made by Cullen, including its latest releases.

The ‘Ancestral Wines’ range includes Cabernet Sauvignon-based flagship, ‘Diana Madeline’, and its Chardonnay equivalent, the ‘Kevin John’. There’s also a white Bordeaux blend named after Di’s mother, ‘Grace Madeline’. For the first time this year, there’s a new addition: ‘Ephraim’, a Malbec-based wine established in 2000 that was previously labelled Mangan East Block.

Scroll down for tasting notes of the four new Cullen Wines releases

An ancestral tasting

The wines were released at a special Super New Moon Flower Day Dinner in mid-February – the first time that both of the winery’s new flagship wines launched during the same weekend.

‘The influence of the moon is really strong today; it’s the second full moon this month, and it is also a perigee, which means it is at the closest point to the earth this cycle,’ shares Vanya Cullen.

‘It’s a delightful coincidence that the ancestors, Diana and Kevin, are honoured at this time. It’s the 20th passing day of Kevin John on the 9 February 2024 and the 101st birthday of my dear mother, Diana Madeline, on the 11 February 2024. What a beautiful way to honour our ancestors as we release these two wines together for the first time!’ she adds.

Vanya is managing director and chief winemaker of Cullen Wines and has been a winemaker at the family winery since 1983. She worked in the vineyard and winery alongside her mother for 20 years and was appointed chief winemaker in 1989.

Ancient land

As the sun’s rays dropped behind the vineyard and dusk welcomed the first stars, Vanya notes: ‘Tonight is about celebrating our ancestors.’

While she references her family lineage, the ancestral celebration and respect is also for the traditional custodians of the land, the Wadandi people.

Cullen was one of the first wineries to transition to organic and biodynamic certification. It was the first in Australia to achieve carbon-neutral certification in 2007. ‘We are on such ancient land,’ acknowledges Vanya.

‘Before synthetic chemicals were used in agriculture, the land was alive and connected with the world on many different levels. The traditional custodians of this area cared for and respected the country for thousands of years before we planted vines here.

Biodynamic practices have nurtured the land again, and I think that the aliveness and purity are translated through our wines,’ she adds.

Sustainable practices

Sustainability is a key value of the winery, with Di and Vanya beginning the transition to organic viticulture together back in 1998. In 2001, the first vintage of Diana Madeline was released (previously, the wine was simply labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot).

It was also the first vintage under screwcap (Stelvin). The closure transition has substantially improved not only the consistency of preserving Cullen’s cellared wines but also the reduction in waste caused by cork closures.

Now in 2024, these new releases mark the next era for the winery, with a shift to lightweight glass for both the Kevin John Chardonnay and the Ephraim Burgundy bottles. Each bottle sees a reduction in weight from 550g to 330g, a total reduction of 4.5 tonnes of glass. The emissions cut is equivalent to 9.5 tonnes of CO2.

‘We are continuing to reduce our emissions – and the glass is one of our “scope three” [a category of carbon emissions in the GHG Protocol] and hugest contributions,’ says Vanya.

Tasting notes for the Cullen Wines 2023 releases

Family ties

There couldn’t be a more perfect location to taste the Grace Madeline 2023 than at a long dining table set up just centimetres away from the 40-plus-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines.

Made at Cullen Winery in 1979 from estate fruit, Cullen’s iteration of a Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend was the first wine of its style in Margaret River. The white Bordeaux blend has since become a key feature of the region.

This wine was renamed in 2018 after Grace Madeline, Di’s mother and Vanya’s grandmother.

She was an environmental warrior, suffragette and mother to three daughters – admirable traits that can be seen in the later generations of Cullen women.

‘Mum and dad were modest people. They would both be a bit horrified to see their names on the label of these wines,’ shares Vanya, in fond remembrance of her parents.

Di was the first woman to plant Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the region, and Kevin John had a deep respect for Chardonnay.

‘His belief was that the way to make the best Chardonnay in the world was to benchmark against the best in the world,’ says Vanya.

It was thanks to Kevin John that the annual International Cullen Chardonnay tasting was initiated, with 2004 marking its 39th year.

Past and present

Malbec is the rising star of the region in Vanya’s view, a fact which is evidenced by the presence of the variety in the winery’s Legacy series and Ancestral Wines portfolio.

Ephraim is a Hebrew name meaning of ‘fruitful’, and the Malbec-based blend is centred on the fruit concentration and flavour intensity that comes from the Mangan Vineyard.

It was also the name of Kevin John’s grandfather, Ephraim Mayo Clarke (1846-1921), after whom it is named.

In a story of serendipity, Clarke purchased land in the 1880s in Bunbury, about one-and-a-half hours north of Margaret River, where he established a store and a winery.

The wine he produced with his wife and mother of their 10 children was called Punchbowl and was successful in its day. In a twist of fate, their only son, a teetotaller, inherited the business, and the vines were neglected until their demise and the land was sold.

The original building and cellar still exist.

Fortunately, a similar fate seems unlikely to befall the family’s vineyards today. Cullen Wines is jointly owned by Kevin and Di’s six children: Rick, Shel, Stewart, Digby, Ariane and Vanya.

The nurturing of the next generation is keenly felt, and several members of the third generation of the Cullen clan are interested in continuing the family’s wine legacy.

Cullen Wines new 2024 releases

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The name Leeuwin Estate evokes two immediate associations: Chardonnay and quality. Now a third-generation family winery, the Margaret River estate’s vineyards were founded by Denis and Tricia Horgan in the early 1970s, under the guidance and encouragement of Robert Mondavi. The first commercial vintage was 1979 and the Hogans planted the region’s first Chardonnay vines of the Gingin clone from Moondah Brook Vineyard cuttings in 1975.

Under the team of viticulturist John Brocksopp and winemaker Bob Cartwright, the Leeuwin Estate name was quickly catapulted to international recognition when the 1981 vintage of Art Series Chardonnay was ranked top in a blind tasting of global Chardonnay by Decanter. The international acclaim put Leeuwin Estate on the map, as well as the little-known Western Australian wine region called Margaret River.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for seven Leeuwin Estate Art Series wines including two new releases

From those early days, the vineyard plantings on the property and the wine portfolio might have increased in quantity, but the label is still firmly in the hands of the family and a longstanding tight-knit winery and viticultural team. Siblings Simone Furlong and Justin Horgan have been joint CEOs of the estate since 2011.

Simone and her mother, Tricia, regularly travel to Australia’s top art fairs to secure the ideal artwork for upcoming labels in the now iconic Art Series. Each painting is added to the Estate’s sizeable private art collection, a selection of which is open for public viewing in the art gallery under the Margaret River Cellar Door. The space was renovated in 2018 and is used for functions and intimate classical music concerts.

Building blocks

The backbone behind Art Series Chardonnay is always parcels of fruit from Block 20, which was planted in 1975, and Block 22, planted in 1977. Simone says: ‘Block 20 is a site which expresses wonderful power and intensity of fruit, but it is the tapestry of combining it with the fruit from Block 22 that enables us to create the finest wine from each vintage, a Chardonnay of wonderful symmetry and balance, with incredible length and capacity to age.’

Helicopter Hill and Air Strip West were planted from source material cuttings in 2021. Leeuwin’s viticulturist of 25 years, David Winstanley, is excited. ‘I’m calling it. This will be Art Series in 10 years,’ he declares. ‘This new block is on fantastic lateritic soils, with a north-south orientation.’ The Chardonnay has evolved in the winery over the years. However, the cornerstone of the style has always included a spared oak programme and no malolactic fermentation since the cool vintage of 2006.

Leeuwin’s current senior winemaker, Tim Lovett, took the reins in 2016 and has continued the legacy of Art Series, while progressing with a few stylistic changes in the winery. These include a 20%-30% increase in whole bunch and 70% skin contact for Art Series Chardonnay.

‘From the 2018 vintage onwards is where you start to see the real distinctive key notes of our evolution,’ he explains. ‘Skin contact for six to eight hours amplifies and highlights the expression of the fruit, so everything becomes more concentrated and more powerful. It’s a 100% new oak barrel fermentation, mainly in Bordelais coopered oak, as Bordelaise barrels are fine and tight-grained. The focus is on tension and length.’

Old vine expression

The Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon is the yin to Chardonnay’s yang, and it has gone from strength to strength in recent years. Both the original plantings of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are dry-grown, with Art Series centred around Block 8’s low-yielding gnarly vines. They produce fruit from the Houghton clone that is concentrated in intensity, yet retains fresh acidity and a delicate aromatic profile.

Winstanley walks me through the vines on a fresh and damp March morning. ‘They’re very old,’ he explains. ‘Initially, they were machine-harvested, but they are now hand-harvested. They’re much more in tune with their environment. They can fully express themselves now.’

Winstanley has been instrumental in conservation and regenerative practices on the estate. He has planted 30,000 trees over the years, increasing bush corridors for native animals such as the critically endangered common ringtail possum. The Boodjidup Brook has been fenced off from cattle, which has resulted in native herbs and native fish returning to the river.

Leeuwin Estate: the facts

Founded: 1973

Owners: the Horgan family

Location: Witchcliffe, Margaret River, Western Australia

Hectares under vine: 161ha comprising: original estate vineyards (107ha, planted pre-1997), Peppy Park (20ha, planted 1996) East Hill (13ha, planted 2016), Henry’s Vineyard (8ha, planted 2020) Helicopter Hill (10ha, planted 2021), Airstrip West (3ha, planted 2021)

Main varieties: Chardonnay (61.6ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (33.1ha), Riesling (24.8ha), Sauvignon Blanc (14.4ha), Shiraz (16ha)

Annual production: 50,000 12-bottle cases

‘We are just stewards,’ he says. ‘The land will still be here long after we have all departed.’ The estate was one of the first in the region to be certified with Sustainable Winegrowing Australia in 2011, and the transition in the vineyard is palpable with a thick carpet of mid-row cover crop underfoot.

Next to Block 8 is the slightly more vigorous Block 9. Planted at approximately the same time, it shows what a slight aspect and soil shift can do in just a few metres. Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon is fermented and maturated for around 24 months in 50% new Bordeaux coopered oak barrels and 50% one-year-old oak.

Productivity and quality have increased during the past three vintages with the help of a new state-of-the-art berry sorting machine. ‘We’ll start seeing that change come through in the 2021 vintage,’ Lovett adds. Currently, there are 26 parcels to select from in the classification tasting, with this figure on the rise as the new plantings and new clonal material (clone 337) matures.

Spotlight on Shiraz

Shiraz has been the focus at Leeuwin Estate in more recent years. ‘As a region, we have an opportunity to take this story to the world. The story that Margaret River is not just about Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which we hit our groove with very early. There’s so much going into our Art Series Shiraz; it’s almost pioneering a new varietal again,’ says Simone.

Determined to raise the profile of Margaret River Shiraz, one point of conversation is the name of the grape variety. The flavour profile and structure of this mid-weight red lie firmly in the realm of Syrah. Several other producers prefer to use this name for their cool climate wines.

The Art Series is certainly a cooler climate Shiraz, with finely grained tannins and fruit in the plush yet vibrant spectrum, plus plenty of natural acidity to keep the palate light on its feet. Most of Leeuwin’s Shiraz is currently the WA clone and is grown in the cooler inland Peppy Park vineyard, about a 25-minute drive south of the winery.

New clones – New Zealand’s Waldron clone and the 470 Rhône clone – plus graftings from Peppy Park were established in Henry’s vineyard in 2019. Looking at the fruit on the vine on this early March morning, Winstanley is confident that this will be the first year that the fruit is destined for Art Series. Each clone will be separately vinified before blending.

The Shiraz programme has been evolving consistently each year, with large-format demi-muids introduced in 2014, whole cluster and whole bunch fermentation, as well as mild carbonic maceration in warmer years. The fruit is individually berry sorted, cold soaked for five hours (first five days), with 18 months in oak.

Lovett says: ‘We tend not to concentrate too much on tonnes per hectare but more on kilos per vine. Art Series Shiraz is all about softness, texture, perfume and aromatics. We are excited over the next couple of years to introduce fruit from the new plantings on our home estate into the mix.’

See notes and scores for seven Leeuwin Estate Art Series wines including two new releases

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The start of a New Year sees resolutions made (and broken), and the inevitable crystal balling of the year to come.

Western Australia spans over 2.5 million square kilometres, and the closest capital city to Perth is a three-hour flight. This isolation, and the fact that the state produces about 20% of Australia’s premium wine, has given rise to a population of wine drinkers loyal to their home-grown producers and wine regions.

Here is a glimpse of what I believe 2024 holds for Western Australian wine.

Pét-nat on the decline

The natural wine movement is evolving, as most sommeliers and wine retailers worldwide will confirm. Western Australians are still enjoying their fizz au naturel, however, palates and wallets are much more discerning. Good quality, clean examples that offer good value for money are still on the pour, but you’ll see smaller volumes and few remaining above the A$35 (£18/$23) price point.

Crunchy reds continue their rise

Last year saw a thirst for chilled reds, and the demand shows no slowing. It makes sense in a climate where summer days easily hit the 40°C mark. In addition to more chilled reds on the shelves, there is a general shift with more winemakers looking towards elegant, lighter-bodied red wines. Cabernet Sauvignon remains king as far as Western Australia is concerned, with Margaret River taking three Best Cabernet Trophies home from the nation’s seven capital city wine shows in 2023.

More ultra-premium releases

Margaret River Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are excellent value for money, especially when nestled amongst peers from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Napa on a wine list. It’s no secret that as European summers get hotter, Margaret River producers are lucky to continue to enjoy a moderate maritime climate and perfect growing conditions for these varieties. And winemakers are excelling at their craft. Only a handful of producers have released wines above the A$200 (£105/$134) mark, but 2024 will see several more hit the market.

Sparkling keeps sparkling

Western Australia produces several fantastic sparkling wines; however, most don’t make it out of the state. The thirst for bubbles continues its ascent – both for premium imports and locally produced bubbles. Aly Forsyth, proprietor of Old Bridge Cellars, which has locations in both North Fremantle and Como, says: ‘Many people’s Christmas Champagne was traded out for Idée Fixe and local sparkling wines under the $50 mark.’ Next door to Idée Fixe’s main vineyard in Karridale, Glenarty Road is increasing its vineyard by an additional 4ha to keep up with demand. Howard Park has taken sparkling seriously for years, and 2024 sees production increase in both tank and traditional method bubbles. Look out for several other well-known producers who have been working on limited-release sparklings too, such as Xanadu and Corymbia.

Alternative varieties to watch out for

Unlike European appellations, producers are not tied down to tradition or regulation. They can continue with the varieties that are doing well or shift to alternative varieties that might better suit the culture, climate and soil. Fiano, Vermentino and Albariño are three white varieties on the rise, while reds include new graftings of Grenache, Mencia and Dolcetto. Savagnin might also see future success after the variety’s initial case of mistaken identity with Albariño.

The launch of the Swan Valley Old Vine Charter

The Swan Valley Old Vine Charter has been in development for some time now, and this year sees it realised. Like the Barossa Old Vine Charter, it will encourage old-vine preservation and the continued use of these vines’ fruit to produce premium wines. Look out for more wine tourism in the region centred on the charter.

2024 vintage

Vintage is early. Very early. Margaret River producers are kicking off about three weeks earlier than usually predicted (a classic Margaret River vintage starts in late January to early February), and some producers in the Swan Valley had already finished by the second week of January. Most have never seen a vintage so early. It’s early, it’s warm, but the fruit looks fantastic. Clive Otto, winemaker at Fraser Gallop, predicts Margaret River Cabernet, in particular, will be outstanding, with similar characteristics to the 2020 vintage.

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Established in 2002, the Margaret River Wine Show once again celebrated the best of the region’s bottlings last week.

Margaret River is unequivocally known for its Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, both of which held court as expected in the show this year. However, it would be remiss to ignore the rise of rosé over recent years, with regards to both quality and consumer demand.

Writer Nick Ryan, who chaired the judging panel for the third time this year, said: ‘If anyone thinks that rosé is an afterthought, a bit of giggle juice and something you pump out while concentrating on “serious” wines, you’ll be left behind. I think we make much more serious rosé in this country than we ever have.’

‘Rosé is a serious wine, and it deserves to be treated as a serious wine. Its context is fun and hedonistic, but all fine wines should be in a fun and hedonistic environment, really,’ he added.

Julian Langworthy’s production figures at Deep Woods Estate speak volumes. ‘The year I started, we made about 200 dozen bottles of rosé. In 2022, we made about 25,000 dozen bottles of rosé, which is a pretty meteoric rise in 12 years,’ he said.

In 2015, the Margaret River Wine Show began the custom of anointing the rosé trophy winner with a dapper pink jacket.

For the first three years, the show’s rosé trophy winners received a custom-tailored pink jacket made by iconic Sydney atelier P. Johnson. However, over the past five years, the Margaret River Wine Association has allocated funds to other areas of development. Recent trophy winners have received sizeably less expensive and less stylish, off-the-shelf jackets.

However, entrepreneur Murray McHenry OAM has generously sponsored ten new custom-tailored jackets to be crafted by P. Johnson to replace those given to the past five winners and to be awarded to future winners.

It was a nice touch of serendipity that the 2023 McHenry Hohnen Chloé rosé joined the ranks of trophy winners this year. McHenry founded the eponymous winery in 2004 with his brother-in-law, David Hohnen.

‘Two years ago I noted the pink jackets being awarded, and then noted the initial recipient, Julian Langworthy’s jacket being beautifully tailored compared to the winner that year. I undertook to have all winners receive the same well-tailored jacket. I hope this tradition continues and the jacket be sought after,’ McHenry said.

The race for the ‘Pink Jacket’ has intensified with the reinstatement of the tailor-made prize. Winemakers wear it with pride, and it’s highly sought after. The jacket is inspired by the iconic ‘Masters Green Jacket’, presented at the professional golf championship to the winner in the immediate aftermath of the victory.

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Stepping into the shoes of a renowned matriarch to take over a pioneering family business is not easy. Especially if that matriarch is Diana Madeleine Cullen of Cullen Wines in Margaret River.

But if anyone was going to follow in such revered footsteps – and forge new paths – then it was going to be Vanya Cullen, the youngest of Di’s six children, who worked alongside her mother for 20 years.

Sharing enquiring minds, independent spirits and prodigious energy, mother and daughter loom large in the relatively short history of this Western Australian winemaking region.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of five new Cullen releases plus five library vintages of Diana Madeleine

A constant presence

Di and her husband Dr Kevin John Cullen founded Cullen Wines in 1971. While Kevin (honoured in Cullen’s flagship Chardonnay) was juggling working at Busselton hospital with research and his own medical practice, Di oversaw the wine business. She planted the vineyard, produced and promoted the wines and indeed the region itself – she was a founding member of Margaret River Wine Industry Association.

Even when Vanya became chief winemaker in 1989, then managing director in 1999, she says Di was a constant presence at the winery. ‘She was there daily until a month before she passed on 4 March 2003. Mum was amazing. Every day, she arrived at 7.30am, never late, and always well dressed, with matching scarf, pants, shirt, belt and shoes. After work she would tend the vines.’

In 1999, Di was named a Member of the Order of Australia (AM) in The Queen’s Birthday Honours ‘for service to the development of viticulture and the wine industry, particularly in the Margaret River region.’ Kevin received his AM, for services to medicine and wine, in 1994, two weeks before he died.

In 2000, Di had the distinction of being seated to the Queen’s right, when the monarch visited Busselton. ‘Mum was a royalist; it was one of the best days of her life,’ recalls Vanya, who received a Medal of the Order of Australia (OAM) in King Charles’ Birthday Honours in June 2023 – something she says her mother would have loved.

Determined pursuit

Vanya admires the King’s ‘long-term support of the environment – organics and trees – even when it was unpopular’. As Cullen is one of Australia’s foremost biodynamic pioneers, it strikes a chord.

‘It has been a struggle – not always pleasant – being biodynamic. I just don’t understand why people get uptight about cow manure and constellations, or why we have to prove anything.’ It should be for those using chemicals to make their case, contends Vanya.

Her parents met with scepticism when they planted some of Margaret River’s first vines to go into commercial production. Locals asked Di: ‘What are you doing, putting sticks in the ground?’

But history speaks for itself and, by 1981, Di’s determined pursuit of ‘her Bordeaux dream’, as Vanya puts it, had created the now iconic blend which took her name in 2001.

Before Bordeaux and Burgundy became so expensive, Di and Kevin regularly opened big-name bottles, including buying Vanya first growths and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti for her birthday. ‘It was about benchmarking our wines with the best,’ says Vanya. ‘I was lucky living through that era, which has been a sustaining influence on Cullen.’

These were also shared at lively family dinners with guests, where her well-travelled and well-read parents would ‘debate about the environment, women’s rights, indigenous rights, health, education and politics.’

Always open to new ideas, Di was ‘adventurous, a lover of new technology and change’ says Vanya, who says her mother was not only the first person in Western Australia to plant Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but her oaked Sauvignon Blanc won an inaugural trophy at the Perth Wine Show and she also pioneered crossflow filter trials in Australia.

Sustainable approach

An environmentalist, Di campaigned to stop mining on Margaret River’s coastline and Tasmania’s Lake Pedder from being flooded by the Hydro Electric Commission. She also experimented with seaweed vineyard applications and vine posts made from shipmast locust trees. And in 1998, she and Vanya started the conversion to organic viticulture.

‘We worked well together because we both cared for and believed in sustainability,’ says Vanya. ‘Mum’s mantra was always “quality, not quantity”.’ Cullen was Australia’s first certified carbon neutral winery in 2007.

Despite her mother’s scientific background as a physiotherapist, she also studied natural childbirth in Paris and ‘had an intuitive way of being in the world’. Similarly, although Vanya was the first in the family to study oenology, she takes great stock in ‘what you learn over a period of time, working and living on the land, and from ancestral knowledge’.

It is a reference to learning from her mother, but also traditional farming. The Wardandi people, the traditional owners of the land on which Margaret River lies, observed the relative position of the constellations and other natural rhythms: ‘they understood the world is not revolving around our schedule’. This way of being has evolved and become a strong part of the Cullen brand, adds Vanya.

Future legacy

Following Di’s death in 2003, when ‘we needed to clarify who we were to the world and where we were travelling’, Vanya and the Cullen team built on Di’s ‘quantity, not quantity’ mantra. The values of ‘quality, integrity and sustainability’ have since driven the business forward and the wines have blossomed.

For Vanya, biodynamic certification in 2004 and no additions since 2006 (save for low sulphur) account for ‘the perfect physiological ripeness and sense of completeness’ of later vintages of Diana Madeline. ‘You see the details and shape of the wine – the fine tannins, acid-line and fruit – more clearly, because you are not taking anything away,’ she explains.

Vanya is quietly confident that, if she were here, ‘mum would have loved everything’.

Cullen new releases plus five library vintages of Diana Madeleine

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With the close of the 2022 Bordeaux en primeur campaign last week, collectors now await the châteaux to reveal their prices. Meanwhile, demand for the 2021 Burgundies remains very strong thanks to an unusually small harvest.

Top-tier Bordeaux and white Burgundy are among the world’s most expensive wine investments – the majority of which trade perpetually on the secondary market and rarely enjoyed. Or if you do buy to drink them, you need to wait a good five to 10 years from the vintage.

Not so Margaret River in Western Australia, home to superlative Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant reds as well as Sauvignon Blanc–Semillon blends that are delicious drinking on release but which also age gracefully for 20, 30 or more years. And not to mention a mere fraction of the price of their French counterparts.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 14 Margaret River icon wines from top vintages

This was aptly demonstrated at a tasting entitled ‘Wild, Windswept & World Class’, where winemakers from seven renowned Margaret River estates joined in virtually to showcase one of their cuvées from two heralded vintages.

Five winemakers selected their 2018 and 2010 vintages. Keith Mugford and Moss Wood’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Vanya Cullen with Cullen Wines’ Diana Madeline, Tim Lovett with Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series Chardonnay, Virginia Willcock and Vasse Felix’s Heytesbury Chardonnay and Glenn Goodall and Xanadu’s Reserve Chardonnay.

Goodall said that while it was inevitable that consumers – and winemakers themselves – would look for similarities or differences between Margaret River Chardonnay and those from the grape’s French homeland, it wasn’t always useful. ‘Burgundy is so diverse,’ he said of the styles and appellations. ‘There are so many ways you can compare and contrast, so it’s far more relevant that we look at ourselves.’

He said a classic Margaret River Chardonnay would showcase ‘purity and clarity of fruit, crisp acidity and saline minerality in youth, then with age opens up with savoury characters at 20 years and tertiary ones at 30 years’.

Bordeaux-style reds and whites

For his Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon pair, Julian Langworthy of Deep Woods chose 2018 too, but wanted to single out the 2014, which won the Jimmy Watson trophy for Australia’s top young red wine.

Describing his earlier career, when working a stage at Bordeaux first-growth Château Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan, Langworthy said: ‘I mainly ate foie gras and did a few pump overs. But I learnt a lot. I learnt that we have something very special in Margaret River, especially with Cabernet Sauvignon. We are capable of making, if not already making, some of the world’s best Cabernets.’

Indeed, Vanya Cullen admitted that if she had her time over she would focus solely on Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wines, as the grape delivered such a ‘pure expression of site’.

Luke Joliffe of Stella Bella, meanwhile, highlighted the 2019 and 2014 vintages of his structured yet fleshy Suckfizzle Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon. ‘It’s always very Sauvignon Blanc dominant to start – lime and zesty, crunchy fruit,’ he said. ‘But with time the Semillon starts to sing. It’s critical to the longevity of the wine, and gives that toasty, praline, brioche note.’

Four top vintages

Margaret River’s unique coastal location between the Indian and Southern Oceans moderates temperatures more than the heat spikes experienced in the eastern states, meaning growing seasons here are remarkably consistent. This combination of Mediterranean climate and maritime influence ensures grapes achieve physiological ripeness in almost every vintage.

The 2018 vintage is considered the best of the past decade for Cabernet Sauvignon in particular. Not only was there a ‘mega blossom’ of Marri trees, whose abundant pollen lured the birds away from the grapes, but a long, dry, warm summer ensured perfect ripening, fine tannins and bright acidity.

There was a similarly dry, warm growing season in 2010, ending with a late and extended cool harvest, that delivered fresh natural acidity and fruit intensity, especially in the Chardonnays.

An excellent growing season in 2014 – another year with abundant Marri blossom reducing bird damage – saw great elegance and aromatic intensity in Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends and ageworthy reds with balanced tannins.

Disease pressure made the long, late, cooler 2019 vintage trickier for growers, but those who managed the conditions delivered white wines similar to those in 2017, with vibrant flavour expression and crisp acidity.

Margaret River icon wines from top vintages

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Endeavour Group announced it has signed an agreement with Moët Hennessy, the wine and spirits arm of French luxury goods giant LVMH, to acquire Cape Mentelle. A fee wasn’t disclosed.

Completion of the deal will take place ‘in due course’, pending licensing approval, said Endeavour, a leading retail and hospitality group that has alcohol retailer Dan Murphy’s and several other wine brands in its portfolio.

Cape Mentelle was founded in 1970 and the deal heralds an ownership change for a pioneer of winemaking in Australia’s Margaret River region. The winery’s 1983-vintage Cabernet Sauvignon is a Decanter ‘Wine Legend’.

Endeavour Group said core team members would stay on after the deal.

‘It will be business as usual for Cape Mentelle with key personnel to remain with the winery, including estate director Penny Dickeson, viticulturist Dave Moulton and recently appointed senior winemaker Eloise Jarvis,’ it said.

Cape Mentelle will be added to Endeavour’s Paragon Wine Estates arm, created in 2019, and the deal adds a high-profile presence in Western Australia to the group’s existing portfolio, which includes Chapel Hill in McLaren Vale, Riddoch in Coonawarra, Krondorf in Barossa, and Isabel Estate in Marlborough, New Zealand, among others.

Endeavour Group’s CEO and managing director, Steve Donohue, said, ‘Cape Mentelle founder David Hohnen once said “wine is a journey”. I’m excited for Cape Mentelle to join our Endeavour Group journey and help us create a more sociable future, together.’

He added, ‘Anyone who has tried a Cape Mentelle Cabernet or Chardonnay knows just how special this winery is. I’m absolutely delighted to welcome Cape Mentelle to the Endeavour Group and Paragon Wine Estates families and to see it continue to grow on a global scale, while giving more people across Australia access to its fantastic range of wines.’

Last year, LVMH announced it was acquiring Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley, adding the top California name to its formidable portfolio of fine wines and spirits.

LVMH owner Bernard Arnault was recently named the world’s richest man by the Forbes publication, which estimated that he had overtaken Elon Musk in the global wealth standings.

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Roger Jones, Justin Knock MW and Julia Sewell tasted 61 wines, with five Outstanding and 32 Highly recommended.

Margaret River Chardonnay panel tasting scores

61 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 32

Recommended 22

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry 100% Chardonnay wines from any part of the Margaret River region in Western Australia

For such a young wine region, Margaret River – Western Australia’s most important wine GI (Geographical Indication) – has made a big impact.

The first winery, Vasse Felix, was established only in 1967, quickly followed by others, but the focus was then on Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay was not widely planted for another decade, with the first commercial bottling released at the end of the 1970s.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Margaret River Chardonnays

As with much of Australian wine then, early releases were big and oaky. However, for the past 20 years, Margaret River Chardonnays have shown increasing levels of refinement.

The best may not come cheap, but they do represent exceptional value for money when compared (as they often are) to top Burgundy.

‘I was pleased to see so many wines listed under £30 in this tasting, highlighting real quality at this price,’ said Julia Sewell.

Unlike white Burgundy, however, Margaret River Chardonnays are much more open in youth and drink well young. And, with the overwhelming majority sealed under screwcap, you can enjoy long-term peace of mind with these ageworthy investments.

Although Margaret River does not have any official sub-GIs, the judges agreed that more producers should note sub-regions on labels, believing it would give wine lovers better understanding of Margaret River as a whole.

‘I was impressed by the clear commitment to quality by producers in almost all the wines,’ noted Sewell. ‘And, for a large number, the sense of place was strongly apparent.’

Justin Knock MW agreed that the ‘overall standard of Margaret River Chardonnay remains extremely high’, but more than sub-regionality, it was the distinctive styles that stood out. ‘It’s great to see winemakers confident with oak and malolactic fermentation, using them to make wines with luscious texture while sidestepping the overuse of the past. Chardonnay enjoys a natural response with oak that is hugely enjoyable and should never be forgotten.’

The ‘more classical, tropical old-school wines’ impressed Roger Jones, who found the oak prominent but not overpowering in most cases. ‘And despite being rich they did not lack freshness, a factor I think helps define the Margaret River style – and certainly more my style of Chardonnay.’

Understated elegance was key for Knock. ‘The best wines for me were more subtle with the oak, expressing a proximity to the ocean in their aromas while highlighting the refreshing lemon-lime and exotic green fruit characters that are such a feature of the region.’

Jones agreed, stating: ‘The newer-wave of wines were more taut, textured and citrus-driven than the rich, tropical, old-school style. While the former boasted a coastal freshness, they still had plenty of concentration, focus and power.’

All three judges were disappointed in how few latest-release wines were entered for this panel tasting, but those that were present demonstrated the depth of quality available in Margaret River Chardonnay today.

The top-scoring Margaret River Chardonnays

The judges

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.

Justin Knock MW is director of wine for luxury wine merchant Oeno Group, overseeing its buying, marketing, trade and retail activities, and he is one of two DWWA joint Regional Chairs for Australia.

Julia Sewell is a wine consultant and educator offering services via juliasewellwine.com. A DWWA judge, she began her career in restaurants in Melbourne, Australia before moving to the UK and working at The Fat Duck in Bray, Hide Restaurant Mayfair and Davy’s Wine Merchants.

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Leeuwin Estate planted Margaret River’s first Chardonnay in 1976, swiftly becoming synonymous with the variety. Two parcels planted to the Gin Gin clone, Block 20 and 22, still produce the winery’s iconic Art Series Chardonnay today.

And from those nascent plantings, it didn’t take long for the wine to make a name for itself. The 1981 vintage – just the second release of Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series Chardonnay – was ranked top in a Decanter international Chardonnay blind tasting.

It was a remarkable result, particularly as Leeuwin Estate was a cattle farm when entrepreneurs Denis and John Horgan bought it in 1969. Not only were vines a relative unknown, so was the Margaret River wine region.

Scroll down for Sarah Ahmed’s tasting notes of 22 Leeuwin Estate wines

The property fell into the brothers’ hands following a corporate deal to buy an industrial plumbing business. Heavily invested in gold-mining, property, technology and oil, they had no interest whatsoever in wine – it was the location that appealed to Denis, a keen surfer.

Everything changed in 1973, when Robert Mondavi came calling. Consulting for American investors, the California wine legend alerted the Horgans to the property’s winemaking potential.

Rather than sell, the Horgans kept the land, entering into a joint venture with the American investors instead. For several years, the partners developed the original vineyards, winery and portfolio in close consultation with Mondavi. The ambition from the outset was to create world-class wines.

Mondavi convinced the Horgans that Chardonnay had a great future. Accordingly, Leeuwin Estate not only introduced the variety to Margaret River, but also instigated into Australia the Burgundian methods of barrel-fermenting, ageing and stirring Chardonnay on its lees.

Leeuwin Estate’s joint-CEO Simone Furlong believes that being new to the wine industry was an advantage for her parents, Denis and Tricia Horgan, who bought out her uncle John in the 1980s. ‘They grounded themselves with the most fantastic technical team and the pursuit of knowledge, never wavering from a commitment to excellence.’

What about Cabernet Sauvignon?

Leeuwin Estate is located several kilometres south of Margaret River town, where the predominant influence comes from the chillier Southern Ocean (as opposed to the Indian Ocean). The cool climate enhances the perfume and acid structure of early-ripening Chardonnay, but can be more challenging for late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, accentuating its herbaceousness. Consequently, Margaret River’s highest-profile variety has always been second fiddle at Leeuwin Estate.

It is not uncommon for southerly producers (Leeuwin Estate included) to blend in Cabernet from warmer sites to the north, enhancing concentration and tannin ripeness. Since 2002, following an improvement programme for red wines, Leeuwin Estate has been progressively reducing the amount of northern fruit, especially for its Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dry-grown and planted in the mid-1970s to local Houghton clones, Block 8 is the backbone of the Art Series Cabernet. With small berries, a rich repository of tannin, colour and flavour, ‘Block 8 is to Cabernet as Block 20 is for Chardonnay’, says Leeuwin Estate’s chief winemaker Tim Lovett.

As a result of opening up the canopy to more sunlight, rigorous yield management and slightly later picking, ‘we have seen increased concentration, balance of fruit flavours and refined tannins in our estate Cabernet,’ says Lovett. Individual berry sorting (since 2011) and hand-harvesting (from 2017) have also improved fruit intensity and finesse.

Beyond Chardonnay and Cabernet

The red wine improvement programme has accentuated the perfumed, detailed, medium-bodied style not only of its more southern-focused Cabernet, but also Shiraz.

Art Series Shiraz predominantly hails from the Peppy Park vineyard. Located 16km south of Leeuwin Estate and further inland, it has a continental climate, with cooler nights. Playing into that, since 2010 Leeuwin Estate has pursued ‘a more European style’, says Lovett, a fan of Northern Rhône Syrah.

Visits to the French region have encouraged him to ferment with whole bunches and age Shiraz in larger (600-litre) barrels. This highlights the lifted spice and floral notes of Peppy Park vineyard.

Leeuwin Estate wants to raise the profile of Margaret River Shiraz. Following intensive research of soil, wind and aspect, it earmarked three sites on granitic soils: Henry’s Vineyard, Helicopter Hill and Airstrip West. Shiraz plantings within these have tripled its Shiraz holdings to 11ha. The sites are planted to a number of clones, including some from New Zealand (Craggy Range’s Waldron clone) as well as the Rhône.

Shiraz is not the only unusual suspect. Leeuwin Estate is one of a handful of producers here to persist with Riesling. Being a maritime region, Margaret River does not give Rieslings as incisive or linear as those from South Australia’s best-known continental regions like Clare and Eden Valleys.

However, sourced from Margaret River’s oldest and largest holding – four blocks on free-draining, deep, gravelly soils – Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series Riesling shares the mineral tang found in Western Australia’s best examples from Great Southern, 200km further south.

While Margaret River is known for its Bordeaux-style Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends, Leeuwin Estate has also long produced a varietal Sauvignon Blanc. Lovett relishes the grape’s aromatic ‘pop and spark’, and a touch of oak makes for a versatile, food-friendly style.

Art Series – and a series of arts

Unusually, rather than building up its brand, Leeuwin Estate launched its super-premium label, Art Series, first. Next came the Prelude range: wines of structure and layer, but made for early to mid-term drinking. The upfront yet sophisticated Siblings range is the entry point.

Conscious that Margaret River was a remote, sleepy backwater in the 1970s, the Horgan family has always drawn on high culture – be it gastronomy, art or music.

Inspired by Mouton Rothschild, artwork has featured on the Art Series’ labels from the beginning, and is chosen each year by Tricia Horgan. The gallery at the Leeuwin Estate winery is home to more than 170 original works by Australian artists.

While the wines play on the world stage, world-class acts have also played on Leeuwin Estate’s concert stage since 1985, when Denis Horgan jumped at the opportunity to host the London Philharmonic Orchestra.

Celebrity chefs make guest appearances too. Since 2012, the Gourmet Village at Leeuwin Estate has been at the hub of Gourmet Escape, Western Australia’s food and wine festival.

‘Wine is sharing, and sharing is what we love about Leeuwin Estate,’ says Simone Furlong. ‘My parents wanted to create something special, and invite people to connect with their passion, energy and excitement.’

Leeuwin Estate: the facts

Founded 1973

Owners the Horgan family

Location Witchcliffe, Margaret River, Western Australia

Hectares under vine 148ha comprising: original estate vineyards (107ha, planted pre-1997), Peppy Park (20ha, planted 1996) East Hill (13ha, planted 2016), Henry’s Vineyard (8ha, planted 2020)

Main varieties Chardonnay (58.6ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (28.1ha), Riesling (24.8ha), Sauvignon Blanc (14.4ha), Shiraz (11ha)

Annual production 50,000 12-bottle cases

Leeuwin Estate: Sarah Ahmed tastes four recent releases and 18 back vintages

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How many doctors does it take to found a wine region? The answer is three in the case of Margaret River in Western Australia, whose pioneering vignerons included Thomas (Tom) Cullity of Vasse Felix, Kevin Cullen (Cullen Wines) and Bill Pannell (Moss Wood).

In 1967, just 4km from the Indian Ocean on the Wilyabrup ridge, Cullity planted Margaret River’s first vines that successfully went into commercial production. They included Cabernet Sauvignon, which put Margaret River on the map, as well as Malbec (the only other Bordeaux variety then available), Shiraz and Riesling.

Scroll down for a nine-wine vertical of Vasse Felix

Tom Cullity Cabernet blend and Heytesbury Chardonnay

Vasse Felix: the facts

FOUNDED 1967

PROPRIETOR Paul Holmes à Court

ANNUAL PRODUCTION 120,000-150,000 cases of 12

VINEYARDS 341ha

Home (Wilyabrup) – 52ha, gravel loam over clay

Boodjidup (Wallcliffe) – 112ha, gravel/sandy loam

Karridale (Karridale) – 30ha, sandy loam over calcium clay

Adams Road (Carbunup) – 147ha, deep red to sandy loam, some gravel and clay

KEY VARIETIES Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

Forty years later, following a lunch with Cullity in 2007, Vasse Felix’s owner Paul Holmes à Court felt moved to mark the pioneer’s legacy. Trials to make a new flagship red named after the Perth cardiologist began with old-vine Shiraz. Then old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Petit Verdot, a relative newcomer to Margaret River. Trials screeched to a halt when chief winemaker Virginia Willcock vinified a small parcel from Cullity’s original Malbec plantings. ‘It gave me goosebumps all over,’ she recalls.

Coinciding with the 50th anniversary of Cullity’s original plantings (which form the backbone of Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec), the inaugural 2013 vintage was released in 2017. ‘Like old boys, these old vines have seen it all before,’ says Willcock, remarking on their consistency of bunch weight, berry size and ‘plumpness of fruit with the most fine-boned tannins’. All loud and clear thumbprints in the vertical.

A Margaret River thumbprint

What makes them special? The Bordeaux comparisons are hard to ignore. Cullity was influenced by Dr John Gladstones’ seminal 1965 and 1966 reports about Margaret River’s quality potential for wine. Gladstones’ analysis was rooted in strong similarities to Bordeaux: the equable maritime climate and well-drained gravel, with adequate clay to support the growth of Margaret River’s vertiginous native Marri trees.

Having visited Bordeaux in 1961 (tasting 1959 Mouton Rothschild from barrel), Cullity selected a propitious knoll, with 800mm of gravel loam over clay. ‘It was all about drainage, because that’s how they grow in Bordeaux,’ says Willcock. Gravel loam drains in spring, keeping yields low, but clay provides enough moisture for these dry-grown blocks to ripen.

However, ‘We don’t make Cabernet like Bordeaux,’ she asserts. ‘We’ve forged our own path and style.’ After all, Margaret River is warmer and drier, with Indian summers in classic years. Hardly a disadvantage, as it contributes to immersive, fine-grained tannins and Malbec’s ripe, plump fruit.

The maritime climate produces fine-tuned, mid-weight wines with balanced acidity that age gracefully, but are broachable young (even top wines). Western Australia’s signature ‘Houghton’ clonal material has a bearing too. Margaret River’s winemakers describe it as light and juicy, fragrant and herbal, with fine powdery tannins, elegance and finesse.

For Willcock, Margaret River’s olfactory imprint – the scent of forest and ocean – is just as important. She always finds traces of Western Australian peppermint tree (Agonis flexuosa) in Tom Cullity. Kelp, bitter chocolate, dried roses, sage and ironstone gravel notes are also common regional traits and add savoury nuance.

Solids success

Willcock’s self-confessed ‘savoury tooth’ has been a huge factor in the success of a variety overlooked by Cullity (who sold Vasse Felix in 1984) and his successors, David and Anne Gregg. Having acquired the estate in 1987, the Holmes à Court family introduced Chardonnay, producing the first wine in 1990. By 1996, a Reserve (re-christened Heytesbury in 1997) emerged. In tune with the times, the best barrel selection was, says Willcock, ‘stylistically quite big’.

She joined Vasse Felix in 2006, catapulting it into Australia’s top tier of Chardonnay producers with a funkier, textural style. Winning 11 trophies, the 2010 Heytesbury became one of Australia’s most awarded Chardonnays.

Willcock, who Holmes à Court notes is more likely ‘to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission’, drew from Burgundian traditions that were, for many years, anathema in Australia. Naturally fermenting Heytesbury on full solids (with no settling), pressing straight to barrel and lees-ageing adds character, expressing a different dimension of the Gin Gin Chardonnay clone. This Western Australian heritage clone is renowned for great acid retention, phenolic skins and al dente ripeness. Only a handful of cooler, east-facing blocks on clay-driven soils can combine Heytesbury’s charismatic blend of funk, texture and tension so precisely, says Willcock.

Moving on up

Holmes à Court, who became sole owner of Vasse Felix in 2008, is keen to identify more Heytesbury ‘Grand Cru’ sites. Following intensive viticultural investment, there is surely scope. Under Holmes à Court’s tenure (his late father, Robert, was Australia’s first billionaire), Vasse Felix has acquired more land under vine – 341ha – than any other Margaret River producer.

The goal is not about being the biggest, asserts Holmes à Court. ‘With the backing of family resources’, it is to raise Margaret River’s profile and position Vasse Felix as the leader. Today the estate’s four vineyards account for 90% of production, up from 60% in 2007. Save for 27ha of young vines and land earmarked for future plantings, they were certified organic in 2020 and 2021.

Vasse Felix’s Home Vineyard, on prime gravelly clay soils in Wilyabrup, now incorporates Arlewood Estate’s former vineyard and the Gibraltar vineyard, planted in 2007. Principally for white wines and Idée Fixe (a new sparkling wine), the family planted two vineyards in Margaret River’s cooler southerly reaches of Wallcliffe and Karridale. Another further inland, on Carbunup’s richer soils, was planted for the entry-level Classics Collection and excellent-value, widely available Filius label.

For Willcock, having the right varieties and clones in the right place, and now organic cultivation, sets the pathway for purity of expression across Vasse Felix’s four-tier range (Icon, Premier, Filius and Classic Collection). ‘The quality of fruit, not me, refines it. It’s a winemaker redundancy policy,’ she jokes.

Vasse Felix verticals

By extension, you could say that Margaret River’s enviably consistent vintages are a viticulturist’s redundancy policy. Despite similar sourcing, winemaking, varietal make up and climate data across seven vintages, each wine in the vertical of three Heytesbury and five Tom Cullity bottles was different.

Willcock speculates that the climate data omits ‘feels like’ factors, such as humidity and wind chill. Surrounded by Geographe Bay, the Indian and Southern Oceans, cooling winds and humidity levels are key influences in Margaret River.

The vertical also illustrated another phenomenon: the distinction between odd and even years for reds. The odd years have more savouriness and plushness while, for Willcock, even years have ‘more pointed fruit and tannin concentration’.

It will be interesting to see if this continues over the next 50 years of Vasse Felix’s evolution.

Vasse Felix: Tom Cullity Cabernet blend and Heytesbury Chardonnay

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Cape Mentelle: 50 years of Margaret River Cabernet

Sarah Ahmed, Justin Knock MW and Julia Sewell tasted 83 wines with two Outstanding and 33 Highly Recommended.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-vintage Cabernet Sauvignon reds (minimum 85%), labelled as either Margaret River, Limestone Coast or one of the GIs within Limestone Coast

Australian Cabernet Sauvignon panel tasting scores

83 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 33

Recommended 34

Commended 11

Fair 3

Poor 0

Faulty 0

First Coonawarra, then Margaret River put Australia on the map for world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Despite opening this tasting up to South Australia’s wider Limestone Coast region (which includes the GIs of Mount Benson, Mount Gambier, Padthaway, Robe and Wrattonbully as well as Coonawarra), disappointingly only three producers outside Coonawarra sent a wine.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is undoubtedly planted in the right place in both Coonawarra and Margaret River and is expressed with nuance and flair across the price spectrum.

Praising their distinct identity, Justin Knock MW said: ‘The great surprise remains that the top Margaret River and Coonawarra wines are still so modestly priced compared with the best Cabernets from almost any other world region.’

There was consensus among the judges that Margaret River (51 entries compared with 29 from Coonawarra) had the better day. The region scooped the two top-scoring Outstanding wines and fielded the higher proportion of wines earning Recommended and above (65% versus Coonawarra’s 35%).

With different soils (largely terra rossa over limestone in Coonawarra, and ironstone gravel in Margaret River) and different climates (continental in Coonawarra, maritime in Margaret River), it was natural to expect distinct expressions. Julia Sewell’s expectations about ‘Margaret River showing finesse and quiet power, Coonawarra being more bombastic and punchier’ were met.

We found a more emphatic single-varietal focus from the South Australian region. This translated into a narrower bandwidth of flavours, focused around classic blackcurrant and cassis, cedar and cigar box and a signature black olive, liquorice and earthiness – there was barely a whisper of stereotypical mint.

See all 83 wine notes and scores from Australian Cabernet Sauvignon panel tasting

In Margaret River, greater use of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc to lift aromas and flavours accentuated the wines’ perfume and elegance associated with the region’s temperate climate.

Cabernet is king in Western Australia, yet South Australia is synonymous with Shiraz, which also helped explain differing styles, said Knock. ‘Coonawarra is emerging from the ripe shadow of Shiraz.’ Hence, he said, the region’s Cabernets were more open, rounder and richer than those from Margaret River.

Perhaps we caught the tail end of overripeness/overextraction with the older Cabernet vintages from Coonawarra. Or the wines may have been unrepresentative, given that even modestly priced Coonawarra Cabernet can age exceptionally well. The region has seen a return towards medium-bodied Cabernets. And, as elsewhere, the shift towards greater restraint with oak in the Coonawarra wines was notable. Mostly well integrated, it supported the length of fruit.

The detail shone in the Margaret River wines, with notes of sage, kelp, ironstone and bitter chocolate aplenty. Particularly impressed ‘by the sense of regional confidence’, Sewell noted ‘the Wilyabrup sub-region surely deserves its own GI – as perhaps do others’.

Concluding that the majority of Australia’s best Cabernets originate from Margaret River, Knock was also struck by ‘a confident style that has never really erred or been out of fashion’.

Top-scoring Australian Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the panel tasting

Wines listed below scored 90 points or above

The judges

Sarah Ahmed is an awarded wine writer, educator and judge who specialises in Portugal and Australia. Publishing her own website thewinedetective.co.uk, she regularly judges in Australia and in 2017 was named Honorary Australian Woman in Wine.

Justin Knock MW is director of wine for luxury wine company Oenogroup, providing his extensive experience in wine production, distribution and marketing. He is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for Australia.

Julia Sewell is a wine consultant and educator offering services via juliasewellwine.com. A DWWA judge, she began her career in restaurants in Melbourne, Australia before moving to the UK and working at The Fat Duck in Bray, Hide Restaurant Mayfair and Davy’s Wine Merchants.

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Fifty years ago, Margaret River pioneers Kevin and Di Cullen planted Cullen vineyard in Wilyabrup. Daughter Vanya Cullen became chief winemaker in 1989 and, strongly aligned with her parents’ values, has ensured that quality, integrity, sustainability underpins everything they do. Cullen Wines was certified organic in 2003 and biodynamic in 2004. It was Australia’s first winery to be certified carbon neutral in 2007 and, certified carbon positive since 2019, Cullen Wines sequesters more carbon than the entire business emits. 

‘In 1998, the vineyard was in decline. Dad [a doctor] had seen the effects of chemicals on farmers, so mum and I adopted organics, then biodynamics. We noticed a wonderful difference in vine health and grape quality. Our wines have become more individual – unique, purer expressions of site, with a thread of the land through them all.’

‘Biodynamics has super-charged our cover crops and soil microbiology, sequestering more carbon dioxide. Still, it was a surprise when soil studies from 2014-2019 revealed we’d sequestered more carbon than the whole business emits!’

‘Drawing on Australia’s indigenous culture, in our case the Wadandi peoples, our evolving six-season calendar acknowledges the strength and difference of our climate (see above). It revolves around what plants and animals are doing. Slowly, we are developing an understanding about what happens at different times of year with respect to all aspects of our business.’

‘With our Biodynamic Wine Room, we have complete integration. With five biodynamic kitchen gardens, our Biodynamic Tasting Plate and four-course set menu is 90% home-grown, so there is low waste.’

‘Caring for the earth and doing no harm in what we do has become a way of life for us.’

Cullen Wines to try

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Kevin John and Diana Madeline Cullen established their property in Wilyabrup in 1971. Today Cullen Wines remains at the vanguard of winemaking in Margaret River. The couple’s youngest daughter Vanya Cullen, who has made wine at the family estate for 37 years, has gone from strength to strength since becoming chief winemaker in 1989.

Biodynamic certification in 2004 has reinforced the family’s ‘quality, integrity, sustainability’ mantra, and she is lobbying for official sub-regional status for Wilyabrup. This would give Wilyabrup (the indigenous Wadandi name for ‘place of red ochre’) its own Geographical Indication (GI).

Cullen Wines was certified carbon neutral in 2007. The estate’s average annual soil organic carbon increases offset more carbon than is emitted, resulting in carbon negative status.

As for wine quality, Cullen’s Diana Madeline – the producer’s flagship Bordeaux blend – has enjoyed ‘Exceptional’ top-tier status in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine since 2005. In 2018, Kevin John Chardonnay was one of three new Chardonnay additions to the ‘Excellent’ category of the auction house’s form guide.

From a high bar, quality continues to soar and Cullen has augmented the iconic range named after her parents with minuscule bottlings of Kevin John Legacy Series Chardonnays (since 2013) and Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon (since 2012), in select vintages.

Each is badged according to its auspicious lunar calendar picking dates. ‘Full moon, fruit and flower days are good for power’, while wines harvested when the moon is opposite Saturn have ‘wonderful vibrancy’, says Cullen. I expect the Vanya Full Moon Cabernet and Legacy Series Chardonnays to join Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine in the fullness of time (the classification assumes a history of 10 vintages).

Biodynamic benefits

Does making the Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon detract from Diana Madeline? Not for Cullen, who says that Margaret River’s well-drained soils and maritime climate (the estate is just 5km from the ocean) means ‘the fruit ripens naturally every year to complete physiological ripeness’. She says Cabernet quality has increased thanks to biodynamic cultivation and Scott Henry trellising, which give more even quality in the vineyards,

Biodynamic viticulture has advanced flavour ripeness in the Cabernet in particular. Consequently, alcohol levels have dropped and the wines are fresher and resolutely medium-bodied, meaning less oak is needed. All this, says Cullen, amplifies ‘the very loud voice of the vineyard,’ with its signature floral, mineral and chocolate notes.

With drier profiles than their peers, Diana Madeline and Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon will appeal to Bordeaux lovers. Though long-lived, the ultra-refined tannins and remarkable fruit purity make them relatively accessible early on.

While Cullen’s reds show restraint, Kevin John Chardonnay is flamboyant. Its fruit purity, concentration and drive typifies Western Australia’s low yielding Gin Gin clone.

Eschewing the trend for tighter, reductive styles, Cullen observes that the winery ‘has not moved much.’ The same can be said of Margaret River’s most famous example, Leeuwin Estate’s imposing Art Series Chardonnay from Wallcliffe. Still, the two could not be more different. Wilyabrup’s warmer microclimate and Cullen’s less interventionist winemaking (natural primary and malolactic ferments, and less oak) produce curvaceous, sensual Chardonnay.

Cullen Wines: Factbox

Founded 1971 by Kevin and Diana Cullen

Location Wilyabrup, Margaret River

Vineyards Dry-farmed, certified biodynamic

• Cullen Vineyard
  Area 28ha, planted in 1971, 1976, 1988
  Varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc
• Mangan Vineyard
  Area 21ha, planted in 1995, 1997
  Varieties Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Verdelho

Soils Granite and gravelly, sandy loam, overlaying lateritic subsoils

Cullen Wines: new releases and flagship back vintages

Updated in September 2021, with eight tasting notes on the latest releases.

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Wine Legend: Cape Mentelle, Cabernet Sauvignon 1983, Margaret River, Western Australia

• Bottles produced 15,600
• Composition 98% Cabernet Sauvignon 2% Malbec (field blend)
• Yield 35hl/ha
• Alcohol 13%
• Release price A$13
• Price today £210

A legend because…

David Hohnen was the winemaking wizard behind Cape Mentelle from 1976 and founded Cloudy Bay in New Zealand. Cape Mentelle was to become quite a large estate, with vineyards in different areas of Margaret River, but the Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced primarily from its 16ha vineyard in Wallcliffe, which was planted in 1970. The most prestigious award in the Australian wine show circuit is the Jimmy Watson Trophy, which Cape Mentelle won not only for this 1983 Cabernet but also for the preceding vintage.

Looking back

Cape Mentelle was founded in Margaret River in 1970, making it one of the first estates to be established in the region. Its wines, Hohnen admitted, were initially seen as too expensive, which hampered domestic sales in particular, but international distribution was boosted by its partnership with LVMH-owned Veuve Clicquot from 1990, in a deal that included Cloudy Bay. Hohnen sold his remaining interest in 2000, and Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay were fully absorbed into the LVMH luxury group. Cape Mentelle’s white wines were highly rated, but it was the outstanding Cabernets that captivated wine lovers, aided by the International Cabernet Tasting, established by Cape Mentelle in 1982. In 2003, David Hohnen ended his association with Cape Mentelle, and moved on to create his own brand, McHenry Hohnen.

The vintage

It was a very hot year in Western Australia, with drought conditions, but Cape Mentelle claims to have fared better than most, thanks to cool ocean breezes. The Cabernet grapes ripened two weeks earlier than on average, and were picked over a five-day period.

The terroir

The Wallcliffe Vineyard is planted midway between the town of Margaret River and the Indian ocean just 5km to the west, making it one of the cooler sectors of Margaret River. In 1983, 4.8ha were devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon. The soils are called ironstone and are granite-derived, with a deep red colour. Gravel and varying degrees of sand give excellent drainage, as well as good water retention.

The wine

After harvesting, the grapes were crushed and tipped into large fermenters with daily pumpovers for 10 days. The wine was transferred into large oak vats for the malolactic fermentation, then aged for 20 months in barriques, of which one-third were new. It was filtered shortly before bottling.

The reaction

In 1985, James Halliday, in an article about the wine, hailed it as an ‘immensely rich, robust and massively structured Cabernet Sauvignon which demands cellaring for a decade or more’. Stephen Brook first tasted the wine in 1988: ‘Deep purple-red. Sweet minty nose, quite restrained. Rich and rounded, not too much oak, excellent fruit and length.’ And 25 years later, in 2013: ‘Lightly herbaceous nose, with black cherry aromas. Supple, ripe, and quite concentrated, with firm tannins. It still has lift and texture and is far from tiring.’

Jancis Robinson commented in 2017: ‘Deep blackish ruby. Very accomplished harmony and it’s easy to see how it wowed the judges way back. It’s ageing well, though with a little kiss of tannin that’s likely to remain to the end of its days.’ Sarah Ahmed attended a vertical tasting in 2018 and noted: ‘Spicy oak and perfumed cassis on the nose which follow through on the palate. It still retains fruit power. Classic Margaret River eucalypt and dried herbs, with ripe but sturdy tannins and savoury meat pan juices to the finish.’

Read more Wine Legends

One of the inevitabilities of being a Bordeaux-focused wine writer is that I have a sideline in ‘Things That Happened in 1855’.

There’s the Burgundy classification of climats put together by Dr Jules Lavalle, which arguably had an even greater long-term impact on its region than the Bordeaux version that was unveiled in the Paris Exposition that same year.

Scroll down for Jane Anson’s Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon tasting notes and scores

Then there’s the publication of Tennyson’s Hiawatha; the National Theatre production of this was a key moment for me growing up.

The same also saw the death of Charlotte Bronte and the unfolding of the Great Gold Robbery that would be named one of the ‘most audacious crime[s] of the century’.

In a weird (or appropriate) coincidence, the crime took place on a London train bound for Paris on 15 May, the same day that the Exposition Universelle opened on the Champs Elysée that would usher in the Bordeaux wine ranking.

But it was only a few months ago, care of the brilliant Andrew Caillard MW, that I discovered several Australian wines were also awarded medals at the Paris exhibition in 1855.

Among them were Tomago, Irrawang and Camden Wines made by, respectively, Richard Windeyer, James King and William Macarthur.

The last two had their wines served to Napoleon III at the closing ceremony. Macarthur was then 55 years old, and went to Paris to accompany the wine and watch the jury at work with the tastings.

It meant that he was there to witness the wines’ success, writing to King that a judge remarked, ‘We were all perfectly astonished at the quality of the Australian wine… placing them in strength and flavour between the wines of Madeira and those of the Côtes du Rhone.’

Even Queen Victoria stopped by the New South Wales stand and asked Macarthur if she could taste the wines – to which he reports with evident delight replying, ‘certainly your Majesty’.

All of this publicity meant that 25,000 gallons (around 95,000 litres) of Australian wine was imported into Britain in 1855, and two years later The Times newspaper wrote, ‘in a few years we hope to see the names of Camden Park, Irrawang, Tomago (…) rank as high… as Lafitte [sic], Latour, Château Margaux’.

The full list of grape varieties shown is not exactly clear, although fascinating research carried out by JA McIntyre for the University of Sydney suggests they included a Riesling, a Muscat Noir de Frontignac, and something called ‘Scyras’ that was drawn from cuttings from Hermitage in France; irresistibly suggesting it was Syrah.

I’ve been tracing the early history of Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia and California recently, and despite the comparisons to Lafite and Latour from The Times, it seems unlikely that Cabernet Sauvignon was in the Australian wines in Paris back in 1855.

We do know that James Busby imported the grape into Australia in 1832, and other documents I have found show early Australian grower John Fawkner planting Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1840s. I’m still looking for earlier examples, and have loved listening to Caillard’s tales of the swashbuckling early importers.

Coonawarra lays claim to some of the oldest Cabernets in Australia, but it’s in Margaret River, with its slightly cooler maritime climate, that I find some of the most exciting examples.

Cloudburst is one that I always open with joy. And I feel pretty sure that owner Will Berliner would relate to those early growers, who found their way through trial and error, a sense of adventure and a belief in their land.

Margaret River itself was only established as a grape growing region around 70 years ago, with Berliner, a New Yorker by birth (Long Island to be exact) arriving in 2005 with his Australian wife Alison Jobson.

They moved there full-time in 2012, to the farm they had bought together in a remote location surrounded by the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. The land had never seen chemicals in its soils and is home to, as he says, possums, quokkas, emus, hundreds of birds, lizards and ‘other slithery things’.

He also points out that indigenous people lived in Margaret River for 50,000 years before contact with European settlers, making it one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited areas. Referring to Cloudburst, he said that makes them ‘absolute babies’ in their journey to understanding the land, ‘on the shoulders of everyone else’.

My colleague Stephen Brook was among the first wine critics to take notice of Cloudburst, back in 2013 when a judge at the Margaret River Wine Show, giving its 2010 inaugural vintage the top red wine of the show. He has recently written an excellent profile of Berliner that I thoroughly recommend reading, with tasting notes of the Chardonnay wines.

I met Berliner in Bordeaux in 2018, and again a year later when he returned to the area to look into selling his wine through the Place de Bordeaux, something that happened for the first time in September 2020 with the 2017 vintage.

I tasted the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon a few months ago, giving it 97 points and finding it packed with savoury herbs and creamy blueberries. You can find the full note below.

For this tasting I got the opportunity to go further back, to the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was just the second vintage, when the vines were around seven years old.

They confirm what an unusually nuanced and complex wine this is, where everything is worked by hand, ‘slow and patient’ as Berliner says, guided by a winemaker who is unusually willing to admit what he doesn’t know, and instead chooses to uphold the spirit of exploration.

See Jane Anson’s Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon tasting notes and scores

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Cape Mentelle: 50 years of Margaret River Cabernet

Bordeaux 2018 in the bottle: How the vintage tastes now

The history of a wine brand reveals many intriguing twists and turns when its cellared assets get poured into a succession of glasses.

Changes of season, ideas, philosophy, even the influence of individual personalities all leave their mark on the wines and, with Cape Mentelle, which celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2020, it also captures the essence – and the reason for success – of the Margaret River wine region.

Scroll down to see David Sly’s Cape Mentelle tasting notes and scores

For those at the heart of this winery, it has always been a terroir story. ‘Cape Mentelle is not trendy. It has and still looks to Margaret River to get the best of Margaret River,’ says winery founder and first winemaker David Hohnen.

The essential element, Hohnen believes, is the coolness of evening breezes that define Margaret River’s maritime climate. This extends the ripening period and imparts an element of freshness to the Cabernet Sauvignon that has become a recognised signature of this winery and, subsequently, this famous Western Australian region.

50 years of Cape Mentelle

To celebrate the winery’s golden jubilee, a series of six Cabernet Sauvignon vintages spanning five decades were uncorked and tasted during an online discussion with the men who made these wines: Hohnen, John Durham, Robert Mann and current winemaker Ben Cane.

During the discussion, they revealed compelling truths about how these wines and the esteemed reputation of Cape Mentelle came into being.

Interestingly, the light-hearted banter revealed that much of the early winemaking was based on whatever-is-at-hand pragmatism rather than raw science. Varying small percentages of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot introduced in early vintages – which added lovely fragrant notes that still persist – were, in fact, a topping wine added to barrels of maturing Cabernet Sauvignon.

‘Came out pretty good, though,’ was the modest summary of Durham, winemaker from 1984 to 2005.

Indeed, it is telling that while other varieties are planted at Cape Mentelle, it is Cabernet Sauvignon that has written the legend of this winery – largely built on the 1982 and 1983 vintages. They both won the esteemed Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy, Australia’s most prestigious gong awarded to the best one-year-old red wine at the annual Royal Melbourne Wine Show.

The intensity of the 1983 Cabernet at the time of the trophy win led Hohnen to quip: ‘It was so big, black, tannic and tarry that I didn’t believe it would be drinkable for the next 10 years.’

‘True expression’ of Margaret River

Time has tempered the beast, and at their best, the wines presented at the 50th anniversary tasting spoke profoundly of Margaret River – the coolness of the region bringing moderation and poise to the flavours, along with a distinctive savoury character.

‘Through the evolution of Cape Mentelle, we all have tried to make a wine of place – a true expression,’ says Hohnen, who established McHenry Hohnen with his brother-in-law.

This has been the philosophy in place since Hohnen and his three brothers prepared the vineyard for planting in 1970 by blasting boulders with gelignite. During those early years, while making the initial wines in tin sheds on the property, the Hohnens relied on local mothers to pick most of the grapes.

‘We were outsiders down here – the winemakers and surfers and hippies – among the established community of rather suspicious dairy farmers.

‘We found it hard to find workers, so we gave jobs to the local mums, and they proved much more reliable than the surfers,’ Hohnen recalls.

The evolution of Cape Mentelle has seen changes in ownership, with Hohnen and his brothers initially selling a 70% stake to LVMH-owned Veuve Clicquot in 1991, which then acquired 100% ownership in 2000 when Hohnen sold them his remaining shares.

Amid this change, Hohnen established Cloudy Bay in New Zealand – an entirely different and equally compelling success story – which left Durham to continue the style that had brought Cape Mentelle initial success.

The winery’s serious ambition for Cabernet was reflected in Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting, first hosted in 1982, and identified by each of the Cape Mentelle winemakers as being especially influential for setting local wines against global benchmarks in a ‘celebration of Cabernet’.

‘Evolution of Australian Cabernet’

Further changes in winemakers brought different visions for Cape Mentelle Cabernet – evident throughout this historic vintage tasting – but the winery’s affection for nurturing the noble grape has never diminished.

The course of this struggle is not lost on Australia’s patriarch wine critic James Halliday, who also attended the virtual tasting.

It was Halliday’s glowing review of the 1978 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon that first brought national attention to the fledgling Margaret River winery, and paved its route towards greater glories.

‘This 50th anniversary tasting has been a micro-take on the evolution of Australian Cabernet,’ said Halliday, who recently auctioned off 250 bottles of DRC from his private cellar. ‘It shows a continual search for the hidden bits that makes Cabernet exceptional, not the obvious bits. It is this search for the elusive that is intriguing.’

Six vintages of Cape Mentelle 1983-2016: tasting notes and scores

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I was in the right place at the right time. Invited to be an international judge at the Margaret River Wine Show in Western Australia in 2013, I was surprised, as were some of the other judges, that we declared the top red of the show to be the 2010 Cloudburst Cabernet Sauvignon.

I’d never heard of it, this being the inaugural vintage, but it easily matched in quality the region’s iconic wines. At the awards ceremony, the little-known American victor, a producer of documentary films, seemed slightly bemused but also confident that his success was deserved.

Scroll down for tasting notes of Cloudburst Chardonnay

Going back further – nearly 20 years ago – to a blind tasting of Chardonnays at Margaret River’s Cullen estate, I unhesitatingly identified a wine as grand cru Burgundy. I was wrong: it was from Margaret River.

My error was repeated at a similar tasting before the 2013 Margaret River Wine Show began. I put at least four of the region’s Chardonnays into the Burgundy camp. Nor do I feel any embarrassment about admitting it.

The New Yorker in Margaret River

Like Margaret River’s Cabernet Sauvignons, Chardonnays from here can be fabulous, and Will Berliner’s Cloudburst Chardonnay is up there with his Cabernet – Jane Anson tasted the 2017 when it was released on La Place de Bordeaux in September.

Berliner, a transplanted New Yorker with an Australian wife, asserts that Margaret River is a very special place. It’s defined, as is Bordeaux, by its maritime climate: hot but breezy, with warm summers giving impressive fruit to the wines, while unpredictable rainfall and storms give individuality to the vintages, as well as a mineral character that derives less from the soil than from gusts from the ocean.

When Berliner talks about his project, he hardly mentions winemaking. It’s the farming that obsesses him; the sense of place of his 1.2 hectares in the unofficial Margaret River sub-region of Wilyabrup, close to the Woodlands wine estate.

Despite his biology degree from Yale, Berliner’s approach is intuitive rather than scientific. He and his wife bought and planted land in 2005, and moved permanently to Margaret River in 2012. ‘Not having come up in wine was entirely to my advantage. I wasn’t beholden to the myriad sacred cows,’ he told me.

Although he enlisted Stuart Watson of Woodlands as co-winemaker, he also took courses at the University of California, Davis.

Resolutely non-interventionist

Berliner is clearly enthralled by his patch of land. ‘Cloudburst is within the sound of the sea on land that has never seen chemical agriculture. The soil itself contains astonishing biodiversity.’

There were no errors of the past, such as chemical fertilisers, to be undone. The Cloudburst vineyard was an unused artist’s palette. The newly planted vines, cuttings of the Gingin clone from a neighbouring vineyard, were ungrafted, as phylloxera is not present here, and the density was Burgundian in its rigour, at 1m by 1m.

‘In contrast to the popular notion that such density creates a struggle for resources, the vines are incredibly vibrant and there is no sign of competitive stress.’ The vineyard was also dry-farmed. If a plant failed to take, he simply replanted it the following year, although this meant it took some time for the vineyard to be fully populated.

Berliner is resolutely non-interventionist. All vineyard tasks are done by hand, wielding secateurs to remove defective berries and tugging wheelbarrows down the rows. The farming is biodynamic, but Berliner isn’t interested in certification. Although mulch derived from his own compost is spread between the rows, there is no ploughing or green cover.

‘Our job is to listen [to nature] and get out of the way.’ A mystical appreciation of his property has emerged, and Berliner regards his vineyard as a community of communicating vines.

The winemaking is simplicity itself. The grapes are whole-bunch pressed into barrel and fermented with natural yeasts. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation and is aged, with minimal stirring of the lees, for 10 months in oak, of which 35% to 80% is new. Sometimes there’s a light filtration before bottling. Annual production is about 2,500 bottles.

High praise, high price

The success of the 2010 Cabernet at the Margaret River show, and the rave reviews for all his wines from Australia’s top critics as well as from international tasters has made Cloudburst a cult wine, with prices to match.

The production of Cloudburst’s Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Malbec totals 5,500 bottles, so there’s a scarcity factor too. But scarcity and high prices are no guarantee of favour.

Cloudburst persuades with its quality; that combination of richness, limpidity and freshness that is the hallmark of Margaret River wines at their best. Their consistency demonstrates that the ‘discovery’ of the 2010 Cabernet in 2013 was no fluke.

I like to imagine that the great names of the region – Cullen, Leeuwin, Vasse Felix, Moss Wood – did not observe Cloudburst’s rise to fame with dismay and envy, but instead welcomed a new star into their ranks.

Six vintages of Cloudburst Chardonnay

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Tom Cullity Wine Trail: A Margaret River guide

Western Australia Chardonnay panel tasting

Highlighted in the August 2020 issue of Decanter, Margaret River’s Tom Cullity Wine Trail is an ideal starting point to explore Western Australia’s most famous wine region, offering a kaleidoscope of tastes and experiences along the way.

Though current travel restrictions may keep you from discovering the region’s spectacular coastlines, forest, grapevine-covered valleys and 90 cellar doors now, don’t let that stop you from discovering the region through its wines, especially its highly regarded Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons.

Tom Cullity Wine Trail: A Margaret River guide

Blind tasted and rigorously judged by top wine experts at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards, the below selection of award-winning white and red wines received 90+ points and offer an ideal starting point to discover benchmarks (and delicious wines) from this world-class wine region.

DWWA 2019: 90+ point wines from Margaret River 

For stockists and additional wine details, select the wine of interest

White

Domaine Naturaliste, Artus Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Platinum, 98 points

100% Chardonnay

Big vanilla and toasty brioche nose. High toast, new oak on the palate with a great depth of ripe tropical fruit flavour, plus a rich vein of pineapple acidity that carries the youthful fruit. Everything is in place for this to evolve gracefully.

Stella Bella, Suckfizzle Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016

Platinum, 97 points

90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Sémillon

A very elegant style with an intense nose of citrus and green tropical fruit with some creamy, buttery, oaky secondary notes. Bright acidity washes juicily through the palate which evinces a palpable waxy Semillon character. Lovely persistency.

Vasse Felix, Heytesbury Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Platinum, 98 points

100% Chardonnay

This is savoury with bags of personality. Beautiful floral, flinty, smoky and lemony aromatics with a hint of spice. Delightful textural quality with toasty, savoury and spicy nuances with flinty acidity drawing out the long, chalky finish.

Deep Woods Estate, Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2018

Gold, 96 points

100% Chardonnay

Complex and compelling Chardonnay with a beautiful gunflint and oak perfume. The palate offers notes of concentrated peach and struck match/gunflint and it hits the bull’s eye for balance and length.

Stella Bella, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Gold, 95 points

100% Chardonnay

Great nose with a little bit of smoky reduction, pear and spice, along with touches of hazelnut and cashew. The palate is tangy and fresh with flavours of lemons, apples and herbs – a very nice bottle.

Stella Bella, Luminosa Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Gold, 95 points

100% Chardonnay

A controlled fine wine with gentle citrus and caramelised stone fruit aromatics and zesty flavours of ginger, salted caramel and nuts. Long and persistent with great potential.

Capel Vale, Black Label Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2018

Silver, 92 points

100% Chardonnay

Honeydew melon and white peach flavours on the palate with lots of layers of complexity and a neat use of oak.

Coward & Black Vineyards, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2018

Silver, 90 points

100% Chardonnay

Mango kulfi, tropicals, peaches and cream aromas. Decent intensity on the palate with a slightly sweet fruit profile and a lengthy finish.

Deep Woods Estate, Hillside Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2018

Silver, 93 points

100% Chardonnay

Excellent leesy, textural character, with smoky, toasty notes. Big, ripe peachy fruit on the palate with good fresh citrus notes.

See more: the latest wine reviews, news and opinions on Margaret River

Evans & Tate, Broadway Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Silver, 94 points

100% Chardonnay

Tight steely nose reminiscent of 1er Cru Chablis. Flint, smoke and crisp citrus fruit on the palate with presence and length.

Forester Estate, Yelverton Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Silver, 93 points

100% Chardonnay

So much pedigree and restrained elegance, with a lovely, lingering and textured palate full of ripe Provence stone fruit that carries and gives a vibrant, fresh, zesty finish.

Heydon Estate, The Willow Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016

Silver, 91 points

100% Chardonnay

Complex and settled, with firm oak influences but a rich vein of acidity and a lovely, gentle ripeness to the forward stone fruits.

Simpson Estate, Elaine Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2018

Silver, 91 points

100% Chardonnay

Citrus aromatics, delivering a beautiful, very classy and restrained wine of finely-integrated oak and great acidity that will age beautifully.

Red

Forester Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Gold, 95 points

3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot

Polished, supple and vibrant with charming violet and spice aromatics. Bright and well-balanced on the palate with creamy oak, cassis, blackberry and raspberry flavours. Very complex and long. Hugely impressive.

Passel Estate, Lot 71 Reserve Syrah, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016

Gold, 95 points

100% Syrah

Excellent wine with a phenomenal balance between a Rhône-like freshness and Australian ripeness of black fruits, with very fine tannins, fully delivering on its price promise. A brilliant example – just give it time.

Woodlands, ‘Margaret’, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016

Gold, 96 points

67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 16% Malbec

A seamless and well-polished red showing finesse and elegance on the nose, with a supple, silky palate. Great length, with layers of black spice, blackcurrant leaf and plum.

Woodlands, Russell, Wilyabrup Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2015

Gold, 96 points

94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc

Intense, fresh and pure with a blackcurrant, blackberry, anise, bay leaf, coffee and chocolate perfume, flavours of herbaceous oak and leafy black fruits and powdery tannins. A superb wine with a persistent finish.

Brown Hill, Perseverance Cabernet-Merlot, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016

Silver, 93 points

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot

A touch of animal character on the nose, the underneath having a brooding, dark cherry, coffee, earthy quality. The structure shows great appeal: saline, supple and tense.

Deep Woods Estate, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Silver, 93 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Savoury and softly spiced layers of rum & raisin, cassis and liquorice, while the palate is buoyed with fine, poised tannins.

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Greenpiper Wines, Butler Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016

Silver, 91 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Plush and lush with layers of plum, cassis and blackberry aromas, while the savoury palate is laced with subtle oak and fine tannins.

Hay Shed Hill Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Silver, 91 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Silky aromatics of bilberry, cassis and soft spice lead to a palate of supple cedar wood and textured tannins.

Ringbolt, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2015

Silver, 92 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Lifted plum fruit with some backed earth notes on the nose. Succulent and juicy palate with some dried herb complexity.

Robert Oatley, Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Silver, 91 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Blackcurrant, blueberry and coffee, with some elements of sweet spice and black pepper. Rich, round and full bodied.

Rosabrook, The Heritage Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017

Silver, 91 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Attractive plum, blackcurrant and cedar on the nose. Lovely juicy fruits on the palate, with classic Cabernet characters.

The Alchemists, Twin Cellars Malbec, Margaret River, Western Australia 2015

Silver, 91 points

100% Malbec

Ripe, dark cherries and spice, with plums coming through on the polished tannins before a floral finish.

This landmark vertical tasting from pioneering Margaret River producer McHenry Hohnen in Western Australia – one of the last before the Covid-19 virus shut down London – challenged the adage about grape vines only hitting their stride after 15 years.

The stellar line-up of 19 wines showcased eight vintages of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and the flagship Rolling Stone Bordeaux blend from Hazel’s Vineyard, all characterful and expressive, with impressive bottle evolution back to 2007.

First planted in 2001, on virgin land, several factors account for the precocity of the vineyard Murray McHenry named after his mother and describes as ‘our most dear’.

Nous is the starting point, with two seasoned hands behind this family-oriented project – McHenry and his brother-in-law, acclaimed winemaker David Hohnen, who co-founded Cape Mentelle in Margaret River in 1970.

A Perth hotelier and vintner, McHenry has form sniffing out prime vineyards in Margaret River’s south that, for many years, contributed to Cape Mentelle’s success.

Informing McHenry Hohnen’s single-vineyard philosophy, these include Burnside (purchased 1976) and Calgardup Brook (1995).

McHenry was impressed by wines from Leeuwin Estate’s Shiraz as well as wines from Devil’s Lair in Forest Grove, about 13km south of Margaret River, so was keen to venture further south ‘for something a little different’.

Here, in the headwater of the Chapman Brook near Witchcliffe, he found a site that would later be known as Hazel’s Vineyard.

Hazel’s Vineyard

Subject only to the soil survey, McHenry bought the vineyard at first sight, building the winery there in 2007. In July 2020 both vineyard and winery will achieve full biodynamic certification.

The 35 hectares of Hazel’s Vineyard have been cultivated organically from the outset and winemaking is minimal intervention. Perhaps this, together with vine age and subtle winemaking refinements, account for the stronger performance of the younger vintages?

Exposure to the ‘Southerly Buster’ – an up-valley Southern Ocean wind – is offset by the vineyard’s sunny, north-facing aspect and free-draining ironstone gravel over clay.

Prizing the particularly stony, iron-rich laterite soils on which Devil’s Lair and Leeuwin Estate’s Shiraz flourish, McHenry originally called the property Rocky Road (since 2014, Rocky Road has been the name of McHenry Hohnen’s entry-level wines).

And with good reason: reds show emphatic dusty gravel, bloody and iodine notes and the firm, tapering finish associated with the terroir.

For some varieties, especially the 10% to 25% of Petit Verdot in the flagship Rolling Stone blend, the longer growing season allows for optimal flavour and tannin development (subject to autumn rains which, nowadays, is less of an issue with climate change).

Hazel’s Vineyard also produces single-vineyard Zinfandel, a Syrah and a Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro blend that Hohnen once explained, ‘can walk to ripeness’ in this location.

The Cabernets in the vertical tasting were sometimes partially naturally fermented, but otherwise there were no additions of yeast, acid or yeast nutrient. All the reds are unfined and unfiltered.

The Southern Ocean’s chilly maritime influence here makes for much wetter, cooler conditions, and consequently the Chardonnays (Gin Gin clone) have a distinctive acid backbone.

Deft use of lees ageing, malolactic fermentation and oak has brought savoury, textural layers to these whites, harmoniously balancing this acidity to the pristine fruit.

With vine maturity, each cuvée of Chardonnay showed greater refinement with a few more months in oak or slightly higher new oak. All sensitive, incremental changes, which allowed the vineyard’s intrinsic quality and character to shine throughout.

19 wines from Hazel’s vineyard: 2007-2015

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Tasting several vintages of Cullen’s flagship wines

‘It’s going to be an epic vintage,’ declares Deep Woods Estate winemaker Julian Langworthy, whose 2016 and 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons and 2017 Reserve Chardonnay have achieved iconic status for their swag of awards.

‘Warm, dry conditions in November have resulted in the perfect storm of a very early, very fast vintage,’ says Langworthy. ‘Yields are low which won’t make the accountants happy, but the winemakers are celebrating as the fruit looks amazing.’

‘This is my earliest vintage in the 41 years I’ve been in the region,’ says Pierro winemaker Dr Mike Peterkin. ‘I’m highly optimistic about 2020, backed by the knowledge that early vintages usually give us very high-quality wines.’

Flametree winemaker and general manager Cliff Royle concurs: ‘The fruit quality is excellent, showing great flavour, concentration and acid line.’

‘’We’ve never looked better as a Chardonnay region,’ enthuses Vasse Felix winemaker Virginia Willcock. ‘And the low yields will only contribute to the rare and special nature of our Margaret River Chardonnay.’

Grape-growing nirvana

The region’s exceptional run of consistently idyllic vintages is now in its 15th year, with many attributing its proximity to the ocean as a significant influence.

Langworthy explains: ‘The vineyards are shielded from extremes by the Indian Ocean, Southern Ocean and Geographe Bay, which results in an even heat accumulation throughout the growing season. It really is grape-growing nirvana.’

Royle adds that the maritime influence also helps with soil quality and high winter rainfall, resulting in wines with great acidity, structure and perfume.

While he says the 2020 Chardonnays should one of the best-ever warm vintages for the region, it is the quality of the Cabernets that everyone is talking about.

‘Early heat vintages like this set the scene for us to make some truly great, long-lived Cabernets, and the 2020 Cabernets has the potential to be amazing – even better than 2018, if that’s possible,’ he says.

According to Voyager Estate’s Steve James ‘vintage doesn’t get much better than this – all the signs are pointing to a potentially great Cabernet year: exceptional evenness, moderate yields and loose bunches with small berries.’

Langworthy adds: ‘2020 reminds me of 2014, which was a superb Cabernet vintage. There’s a lot of the season to go before we start picking, but I’m optimistic this will be our greatest Cabernet vintage on record.’

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Spectacular coastlines, lush forest and valleys blanketed with grapevines await in Western Australia’s world-class wine region of Margaret River, where winemaking is its lifeblood and ancient soils nourish its soul.

Some of the world’s finest Chardonnays and Cabernets are produced here, in a region that celebrates its wines as much as intoxicating abundance of fresh produce, especially in November during the annual Gourmet Escape wine and food festival.

While its origins date back to the 1920s with the planting of an Italian grape variety called Fragola, it wasn’t until 1967 when Dr Tom Cullity established Vasse Felix winery, that the Margaret River wine region was truly born. Cullity’s humble enterprise began with just 3ha of land, with plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Malbec and Riesling.

Fact file: Margaret River

• 175 wine producers
• 90 cellar doors
• 2% of Australia’s wine production
• 25% of Australia’s premium wine production
• More than 36 varieties planted
• 5,480 hectares under vine
  

Times have certainly changed since then, with 175 wineries now established throughout the region, many with restaurants featuring local produce as the dish of the day.

The Tom Cullity Wine Trail pays homage to this cardiologist and budding vigneron.

Stay in Margaret River (300km from Perth) and take a day or two to drive along the 5km stretch of wineries along Tom Cullity Drive that boasts wildflowers during spring and a gushing Willyabrup Creek during the winter months. Stop for a glass of wine, a waterside picnic, handmade chocolate, nougat or a fine dining lunch, and discover Margaret River’s evolution from its humble beginnings.

Begin your journey at the Margaret River Chocolate Company, where you will find more than 200 chocolate products, including gin and tonic or salted caramel truffles, macadamia nut clusters, gourmet chocolate bars, and chocolate-coated honeycomb.

Fill your picnic basket at Providore, a gourmet deli, with a selection of homemade tapenades, jams, chutneys, cured meats, dressings, cheeses, olive oil, wine and liqueurs. Everything is made on site, even the cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil from its Tuscan olive trees, with most produce picked from its organic vegetable garden.

A visit to the Heydon Estate cellar door won’t take long to reveal the Heydon family’s passion for cricket, with wine labels such as The Sledge, The Urn and Hallowed Turf. Try the Cherry Viognier Rosé on a balmy summer afternoon or The Willow Chardonnay with seafood as the sun sets.

Be enveloped by French oak barriques as you sample Thompson Estate’s wines in its contemporary barrel room. Established by Peter Thompson, the Four Chambers label acknowledges his – and Tom Cullity’s – parallel careers of vigneron and cardiologist.

The picturesque Juniper Estate is situated on the banks of Willyabrup Creek. Step inside its rustic cellar door and taste a fine selection of wine varietals crafted by winemaker Mark Messenger. This quiet-achieving winery is renowned for its award-winning portfolio of reds, but its Fianos are equally impressive. Sit by the water’s edge under the shade of the trees with a picnic basket from Providore and a glass of wine. Keep an eye out for the rare Baudin black cockatoos that live in this pristine realm.

Follow the winding blue gum- and jarrah-lined road until you arrive at a mud brick cellar door. This colonial style tasting room was built by the Devitt family from the mud in its dam when they created Ashbrook Estate some 40 years ago. Riesling was the highest planted variety in Margaret River in those days, and while Chardonnay and Cabernet are the hallmark varieties of the region today, this family continues to produce a Riesling from those original plantings.

Indulge in a fine-dining experience at Vasse Felix and pay tribute to the man who had such perseverance and foresight into what this region could become with a glass of the Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec. Margaret River’s wine journey began from those grapes, picked from the founding vineyard and delicately woven into this elegant wine. Devour Japanese and Korean-infused cuisine with Brendan Pratt’s wine-led menu that is paired with Vasse Felix wines. The Kingfish Wing is served with smoked eel and mushroom XO sauce, partnered with the winery’s hallmark Heytesbury Chardonnay. Book a Cellar Experience tour with a stroll through the organic vines, before a back-vintage tasting in The Vault with a viewing of the original bottle of the Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec from its first vintage in 1972.

Complete your trail at Bettenay’s Nougat. Watch the nougat being made whilst sipping on a coffee or honey-based liqueur with a slice of salted-caramel nougat.

Accommodation

Constellation Apartments

Stay on the town’s main street at these stylish one-bedroom flats, complete with modern conveniences and original artworks.

• Address: 141/139 Bussell Highway

Pullman Resort

Let the ocean lull you to sleep when you stay at this resort on Bunker Bay, with accommodation choices ranging from studio rooms to family bungalows and a boardwalk that leads to the beach.

• Address: Bunker Bay Road, Naturaliste, WT, 6281

Cape Lodge

A stylish country house hotel. All rooms are light and spacious, offering garden or lake views. Make sure you opt for an inclusive experience, which incorporates breakfast, afternoon tea and a vineyard tour.

• Address: 3341 Caves Road, Yallingup

Olio Bello

Glamp in a safari-style lakeside bungalow at this organic olive grove. Stroll to the café next door for an olive oil tasting, lunch and glass of wine. Breakfast hampers and dinner platters are also available.

• Address: 36 Armstrong Rd, Cowaramup 6284

Restaurants

La Scarpetta Trattoria

Enjoy traditional Italian cuisine and homemade pasta on the main street in Margaret River with dinner at in a relaxed vintage-chic setting, with an extensive Italian and Margaret River wine list.

• Address: 73 Bussell Highway, 6285
• Open: Monday-Sunday 5pm-9.30pm

Pizzica

Authentic wood-fired Italian pizzas and charcoal grilled meats including t-bone steaks, pork ribs and lamb chops in this humble, yet welcoming rustic pizzeria.

• Address: 73 Bussell Highway, 6285
• Open: Monday-Sunday 5-10:30pm

Yarri

Drive 45km north to Dunsborough and tuck-in to some authentic Australian cuisine, where locally foraged edible native foods star on this ever-changing menu.

• Address: Cyrillean Way, Dunsborough
• Open: Monday-Sunday lunch 12pm-3pm, snacks 3pm-5.30pm, and dinner 5.30pm-9pm

Bunkers Beach House

Dine on sustainably caught local seafood in this absolute beachfront dining. Dishes change daily but can include roasted whole Nannygai fish with grilled lettuce and seaweed and bacon butter; dry-aged Amberjack carpaccio served with dune vegetables; or octopus and chorizo with polenta, olives, carrots and buttermilk dressing.

• Address: Farm Break Lane, Bunker Bay, Naturaliste WA 6281
• Open: Monday-Friday 12noon-3pm, Saturday, Sunday & Monday bank holiday, breakfast 8.30am-11.30am, lunch 12noon-3pm

Bars

River Hotel

A favourite watering hole for the locals to while away an afternoon in the beer garden with an interesting locally crafted spirits and beer selection, accompanied by live music or a silent disco.

• Address: 40 Wallcliffe Road
• Open: Monday-Friday 12noon-late, Saturday & Sunday 11am-late

Settlers Tavern

With about 600 wines on its award-winning list, also offers small pours of select back vintage wines through the Coravin preservation system.

• Address: 114 Bussell Highway
• Open: Sunday-Thursday 11am-12am, Friday 11am-1am, Saturday 10am-1am

Shops & Tours

Walk Talk Taste

Bring your appetite on this walking brunch tour and discover some of the region’s best local produce. Sip on cold-drip coffee with chocolate, freshly made ice cream from a local dairy, pair cheeses with wine, and taste freshwater marron plucked from Margaret River dams.

Margaret River Collaborative

Here, several artisanal producers specialising in local, handmade products are showcased under the one roof. There’s coffee, tea, crafts, clothing, cheese, artworks, body products and wine.

Getting there

Fly to Perth, Western Australia’s capital, then hire a car and drive south for 300km to Margaret River. Or book a Cessna turbo-prop seaplane with Swan River Sea Planes and be in the wine region within an hour. Helicopter flights are also available with Corsaire.

Classified ‘Exceptional’ in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay has long rubbed shoulders with Australia’s finest wines.

Held aloft in the 2018 edition of the auction house’s form guide, it was the only white wine included in Langton’s new top tier ‘Heritage Five’, reflecting its ground-breaking influence.

For Langton’s co-founder Andrew Caillard MW, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay represents ‘the beginning of Margaret River Chardonnay, the Gin Gin clone [which Leeuwin Estate pioneered and refined] and a distinct aesthetic and reference.’

This ‘distinct aesthetic’ underlines Art Series’ status as a true classic among Australian Chardonnays. Advised by Robert Mondavi, owners Dennis and Trish Horgan were the first to plant Chardonnay in Margaret River, in 1976.

Resolutely focussed on the Gin Gin clone, pristine and primary varietal expression and barrel-fermentation (it’s aged for 11 months in 100% new Bordelaise-coopered oak barriques), this tremendously consistent Chardonnay has bucked trends.

And why not, given fruit so potent it masterfully absorbs the oak? Impressive drive extends and balances Art Series’ flavoursome fruit and, released three years after vintage, it’s renowned for and rewards further ageing – as this vertical tasting ably demonstrates.

The terroir

Exploring the roots of its success, last November I visited Block 20 (planted 1976) and Block 22 (planted 1978), the hallowed yin and yang parcels which define the Art Series.

Located on a slope above Boodjidup Brook, higher up, shallower gravelly soils produce elegant, mineral Chardonnay. Below, loamier soils enhance palate weight.

Aspect is important too. Oriented north/south and exposed to sunshine all day, Block 20’s concentrated, generous fruit is the backbone. Block 22’s less exposed east/west orientation produces tighter, mineral wines.

The Gin Gin clone’s tendency to millerandage (poor flowering) produces both tiny (‘chicken’) and normal size (‘hen’) berries within the same bunch, which enhances structure in the wines. Larger ‘hens’ have higher acidity whilst, observed Head Winemaker Tim Lovett, thicker-skinned ‘chickens’ contribute ‘phenolic drive for age-worthiness’ – unconventionally, Leeuwin practises pre-fermentation skin-contact of six to eight hours for around half the grapes.

The style

Tweaks over the years have sought to reinforce house style and longevity. Marginally earlier picking ‘enhances clarity and purity of varietal fruit spectrum,’ according to Lovett, with the added benefit of reduced alcohol levels.

Since 2005, Art Series Chardonnay has been exclusively bottled under screwcap, while from 2006, malolactic fermentation was blocked. A touch of natural ferment has crept into some recent vintages, with its textural, savoury influence being most evident in the 2013. Lovett emphasises that, ‘we are searching for the clearest and purest expression of fruit and site, not necessarily chasing secondary characters.’

All of which reinforces Leeuwin Estate’s ‘treat ‘em like eggs’ motto relating to the Art Series’ precious grapes.

Leeuwin Estate factbox:

Founded 1973

Location Witchcliffe, Margaret River, Western Australia

Hectares under vine 155ha, of which 55ha is planted to Chardonnay

The Art Series is Leeuwin Estate’s flagship range, with different labels commissioned from top Australian artists every vintage.

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay back to 1987:

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Tina Gellie seeks out cool-climate Australian Shiraz...

Shiraz (or ‘Syrah’) is Australia’s most widely planted variety and the biggest concentration can be found in the Barossa Valley, where the warm climate and winemaking trends helped to establish Aussie Shiraz’s ‘blockbuster’ reputation for power, intensity of jammy fruits, and alcohol through the 1990s and early 2000s.But if you think that’s all this variety offers downunder, you’re very much mistaken, as plantings in cooler areas produce wines of elegance, balance and freshness that will reconfigure how you think of the variety in Australia. And they’re gaining in popularity as consumers seek out more food-friendly, complex, ageable wines.

Below are some of the most interesting examples discovered by Tina Gellie at the recent Australia Day tasting organised by Wine Australia.

Cool-climate Shiraz to try:

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The tasters: Sarah Ahmed, Roger Jones and Anthony Rose

Scroll down to see the tasting notes & scores

The verdict

Only 14 of the wines in our tasting of 60 Western Australian Chardonnays were from outside Margaret River: three from Great Southern as well as three from its sub-region of Frankland River and another from the Mount Barker sub-region; one from Geographe; one from Pemberton; and five from the generic appellation of Western Australia. It wasn’t just that Margaret River dominated the tasting numerically but, more significantly, it took the top 13 spots, with only Hay Shed Hill from Geographe and Harewood Estate from Great Southern sneaking into the top 20.

This predominance of quality Chardonnay in Margaret River is hardly an eyebrow-raiser. Ever since Leeuwin Estate pioneered the style, closely followed by the likes of Vasse Felix, Cullen, Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle, Margaret River has emerged as one of Australia’s prime regions for quality Chardonnay, thanks to its unique combination of maritime- Mediterranean climate and the commitment of a growing band of small producers to making world- class Chardonnay.

In some ways, this was an unusual tasting, being a ‘game of two halves’, to use a footballing analogy. The 2017 vintage constituted just over half of the wines tasted, but we were not greatly enamoured with these younger wines and wondered why they didn’t meet our admittedly high expectations. A majority at the lower price points were characterised by a lack of fruit depth and texture, having a linear quality – or even a meanness – that made them one-dimensional. Sarah Ahmed called them ‘citrus zingers’. Most of these hovered around the 13% abv mark, or lower, suggesting perhaps early-picked fruit or highish yields. To be fair, there were exceptions – notably the excellent Deep Woods Estate, Gralyn Estate, Willow Bridge Estate and Miles from Nowhere in the top 20, plus four more Highly Recommended wines: LAS Vino, Brookland Valley, Fraser Gallup, Houghton and Marchand & Burch.

As we broached the 2016s and 2015s, we sunk our collective teeth into a bunch of excellent wines that really did meet – and on occasion exceed – expectations. Those in the top flight of Exceptional and Outstanding were everything we hoped for from Margaret River: beautifully crafted, powerfully expressive Chardonnays with complexity, fruit concentration, length, balance and ageworthiness. There was even a certain ‘funkiness’ on occasion; an individuality that spoke of an understanding of the viticulture, of first-rate winemaking and the distinctiveness of the region.

To an extent, we felt that some of the character of these world-class Chardonnays derived from the particular freshness, expression and concentration of the Gin Gin clone, also known as the Mendoza clone.

It came as little surprise to see Deep Woods, Cullen, McHenry Hohnen, Pierro, Leeuwin Estate and Vasse Felix’s Heytesbury in the top flight, and it was good to see them joined by less well-known names such as Gralyn, Driftwood, Flowstone and Hamelin Bay, with a good performance outside Margaret River from Willow Bridge. While the focus has to date been largely on winemaking, growers are now taking on board differences of soil type and growing methods that take account of local climatic factors to deliver complexity, flavour and structure.

The scores

60 wines tasted

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release 100% Chardonnays from Western Australia

Exceptional 3

Outstanding 4

Highly Recommended 22

Recommended 25

Commended 5

Fair 1

Poor 0

Faulty 0

The judges

Sarah Ahmed

Ahmed is an awarded wine writer, educator and judge specialising in Australia and Portugal. In addition to publishing her own site, thewinedetective.co.uk, Ahmed has contributed to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book, Jancis Robinson MW’s The Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine.

Roger Jones

Jones owns award-winning restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, together with his wife Sue. Both a wine critic and Michelin-starred chef, he frequently visits Australia to promote food and wine pairing, and set up The Tri Nations Wine Challenge to promote wines from South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.

Anthony Rose

Rose is the wine correspondent for the Independent and i newspapers and writes for publications including Decanter and The World of Fine Wine. He has been named Glenfiddich Wine Writer of the Year and Louis Roederer International Wine Columnist of the Year. Rose is DWWA Regional co-Chair for Australia.

About Western Australian Chardonnay

The sheer scale of Western Australia’s wine regions is mind-boggling. If evidence were needed, the scenic drive from Perth south to Mount Barker takes a good four hours. Fanning out west to the Indian Ocean and east to the Southern Ocean, Western Australia’s nine regions are geographically reminiscent of South Africa’s Western Cape except for one major detail: the state’s main concentration of vineyards and wineries lies in a single region, Margaret River. Indeed, for many, Margaret River is Western Australia.

Excluding inland Perth Hills, Blackwood Valley, Manjimup and Pemberton, five of the nine wine regions are lapped by the two great oceans, but significantly, Margaret River is girdled by the Indian Ocean on three sides, giving a maritime-Mediterranean climate. Sitting on the western side of the Great Sandy Desert, with moderate annual rainfall, it enjoys mild to warm vintages in most years. The other four coastal regions are Swan Districts, Peel, Geographe and the sprawling Great Southern. While Margaret River is king, pockets of Great Southern and cooler climate areas of Geographe in particular make tight, cool-climate Chardonnay.

Margaret River

Identified in 1965 by Dr John Gladstones as a viticultural paradise, Margaret River, with its preponderance of small wineries, tourism, beaches and craft community, has proved to be not just primus inter pares in Australia’s west, but in the entirety of Australia. Nearly 100km long and up to 27km wide, Margaret River has become internationally recognised for three main styles: elegant Bordeaux-like reds based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Graves-style blends of Semillon and Sauvignon, and of course Chardonnay. The latter is so prized that the average price per tonne of grapes is A$1,760, compared to the Australia average of A$565.

Leeuwin Estate was one of the region’s pioneers of Chardonnay with its Art Series label. It’s always been a distinctive, complex style with the full Burgundian treatment and was originally the model for the concentrated, long-lived style of Western Australian Chardonnay whose power, vibrancy and balance derives equally from the maritime climate, the gravelly, sandy loams and granitic terroir and the predominantly high-acid Gin Gin (Mendoza) clones. On occasion it can lack a dimension where early picking emphasises its greenness.

However, Margaret River Chardonnay has evolved since the pioneering days of Leeuwin as winemakers continue to create a style distinguishing it from Australia’s other great Chardonnay regions, notably Adelaide Hills, Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley and Tasmania.

See all 60 wines from this panel tasting

Western Australia: the facts

Blackwood Valley 31% white; 20 wineries, 50 vineyards covering more than 450ha

Geographe 38% white; covering the sub-regions of Ferguson Valley, Donnybrook, Harvey, Capel and Busselton

Great Southern 40% white; 1,600ha under vine, 70 producers in five sub-regions: Frankland River, Mount Barker, Denmark, Albany, Porongorup

Manjimup 33% white; 10 wineries

Margaret River Planted to 47% white varieties; 5,800ha under vine, of which more than 800ha are Chardonnay (17% of production). 150 wine producers and 300 growers

Peel 61% white; an emerging region with over 200ha

Pemberton 53% white; 26 wineries

Perth Hills 46% white; a young wine region (since 1999) with 22 wineries

Swan District 71% white; one of Australia’s oldest wine regions first planted in 1829

Western Australia: know your vintages

2018 Already looks excellent. A vintage of fruit concentration, freshness and clarity thanks to a long, dry, warm summer.

2017 A late vintage and the coolest since 2006. Top wines will be complex and structured; others will be linear and high acid.

2016 Cool nights and lower than average rainfall. Vibrant and elegant Chardonnays, if mildew and botrytis were kept at bay.

2015 A warm year; quite low yields. Early vintage in Margaret River; weighty peach fruit for softness with good acid retention.

2014 A warmish vintage. The tail of Cyclone Olwyn hit after most white grapes were picked. Chardonnay with good intensity of flavour and freshness.

2013 A warm, relatively early year. Typical Margaret River intensity of flavour and good mineral character in some sites.

Top Western Australian Chardonnays from the panel tasting:

See all of the wines tasted here

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Wine trends to watch in 2019

Margaret River’s Vasse Felix winery is set to acquire the Watershed vineyard, in a bid to increase its Chardonnay production by as much as 30 per cent in coming years.

Vasse Felix buys Watershed vineyard

This site is in the ‘golden triangle’ of Chardonnay production in Margaret River, with Leeuwin Estate, Voyager Estate and Xanadu Wines as neighbours.

The deal, which is expected to settle in July, includes an 80-hectare vineyard, winery, thermomass-built barrel room, restaurant and cellar door, on what is arguably one of the best sites in the region.

Watershed will continue to sell its wines under its own label and operate the cellar door and restaurant for a two-year period.

Vasse Felix chief executive, Paul Holmes a Court said no plans have yet been made for the buildings on the property.

‘We purchased a portion of the Watershed vineyard a few years ago as it produces excellent Chardonnay. This new acquisition allows us to increase Chardonnay production, while continuing to make wines at our original Vasse Felix site.’

The deal will see Vasse Felix’s vineyard holdings increase to over 300-hectares across four sites in the Margaret River region.

Once finalised, Vasse Felix will commence an immediate conversion of the vineyard, focusing on the existing Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon vines that were planted in 2001. Other varietals in the 80-hectare vineyard, such as Merlot, will progressively be replanted with Chardonnay.

‘We have been converting our vineyards to organic practices in recent years and will continue that transition at this new site,’ Holmes a Court added.

‘Our focus at the new vineyard with primarily be Chardonnay. We cannot meet existing demand from the domestic and international market for our Chardonnay and this vineyard will allow us to progressively develop those channels.’

‘It’s naturally sad to be selling the Watershed vineyard, but we’re delighted a leading, local winery is taking it over,’ said Watershed managing director, Geoff Barrett.

Sarah Ahmed tastes three mini-verticals from Voyager Estate at their 40th anniversary celebration in London, exclusive to Decanter Premium members..

Voyager Estate: 40th anniversary tasting

Acquiring a vineyard seems an unlikely choice for a teetotaller, but that’s precisely what the late Michael Wright did, buying Freycinet Estate in 1991. First planted in 1978, it’s located in the Stevens Valley in southern Margaret River’s Wallcliffe sub-region, five kilometres from the Indian Ocean’s cooling influence.

Scroll down for Sarah Ahmed’s tasting notes and scores

From farming stock, the iron ore heir – a billionaire – recognised its potential and determined to realise it. Renaming the property Voyager Estate, Wright extended the vineyards with top notch planting material, including cuttings from his neighbour’s oldest, most concentrated Gin Gin clones – Block 20 – the backbone of Leeuwin Estate’s iconic Art Series Chardonnay.

The investment was rewarded when, in 2002, leading Australian wine writer James Halliday declared Voyager Estate, Leeuwin Estate and Cape Mentelle three tips of ‘a golden triangle producing three of the best Margaret River Chardonnays.’

The tasting

Hot on the heels of the 2018 harvest – yet another excellent vintage in this enviably consistent region – Steve James (winemaking and viticulture manager) celebrated Voyager Estate’s 40th anniversary in London with verticals of their Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and Shiraz.

True to Margaret River’s reputation, the wines showed great varietal definition and intensity without density. Moderating sea breezes account for their ripe but present balancing acid and tannin structure.

The Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – regional heroes – had aged superbly. Sealed under screwcap, one sensed the older Chardonnay vintages had plateaued and will deliver like pleasure for a few years yet.

Changes

Vintage differences were less tangible than refinements in the vineyard and winery. The introduction of partial wild yeast ferments for the 2009 Chardonnay provided this powerful vintage with savoury, textural nuances, earning it my top score in an impressive flight. Ratcheting up the Burgundy clonal component has similarly tempered the local Gin Gin clone’s fruit; expect future vintages to show more restraint with bottle age.

Remarking on the younger Cabernet blends, James reckons ‘less overt fruit but more layers and complexity’ is an outcome of organic cultivation, better clonal selection and fruit sorting.

In 2014, the sole, strikingly elegant example of 100% estate and 100% southern (cooler) Margaret River fruit well and truly played into the zeitgeist medium-bodied style. That said, the top scoring richer, riper 2001 was in glorious shape.

Margaret River Shiraz rarely outguns Chardonnay and Cabernet. This flight was patchier and less compelling, albeit consistently medium-bodied with juicy plum and blackberry fruit. It took the challenging cool, late 2006 vintage to coax its best performance – perfumed, mineral and highly evocative of the Rhône.

Voyager Estate: Fact file

Vineyards: 110ha under vine (40ha in conversion with Australian Certified Organic)

Production: 480,000 bottles

Climate: temperate maritime (MJT 20.4 degrees), average annual rainfall c. 1000mm (85% of which falls during winter and spring)

Soils: predominantly deep, free-draining red/brown gravelly soils over a stony/clay sub-soil

Sarah’s tasting notes and scores from the three Voyager verticals:

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Already the country’s most widely planted grape, increased stylistic diversity and an expansion into new terroirs point to an even brighter future, says Anthony Rose...

• 165 wines tasted with two rated Exceptional and eight Outstanding

• The panel tasters were: Tina Gellie, Roger Jones and Anthony Rose

Accounting for nearly half of Australia’s red wine harvest, Shiraz is the country’s signature grape variety. With a crush of half a million tonnes last year – more than both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon – Shiraz throws sand in the faces of its closest rivals. But it’s not just about size; Shiraz also impresses with the expanding spread of regions where it is able to flourish.

From a French perspective, Syrah is at its best in the marginal climate of the cool northern Rhône. In the southern Rhône, it needs Grenache and Mourvèdre to bolster it. If that were true of Australia, Shiraz should only by rights flourish in the cool climates of South Australia’s Coonawarra and Eden Valley, or the Grampians and Yarra Valley in Victoria.

The fact that it flourishes elsewhere is down to unique circumstances in Australia. As Brian Croser says: ‘In the benign climate belt between 32° and 38° south, on the oldest geology and soils on the globe, Australia’s unique latitudinal 5,000km southern coastal interface with the globe’s coldest ocean… provides unique growing circumstances for this most adaptable of varieties.’

Scroll down to see the top wines from this panel tasting

On the right path

In this way, Shiraz is capable of retaining the acidity, aroma, generosity of fruit and fine texture required to produce different styles from a broad diversity of terroirs. Styles divide broadly between the powerful opulence of hot Barossa Valley (and to an extent the inland regions); the more restrained, spicy reds of warm McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Heathcote, as well as milder Yarra Valley, Eden Valley, Coonawarra and Great Western; then the intensely perfumed, elegant wines of the cooler Adelaide Hills, Canberra and Grampians.

Quick link: View all 165 wines from this panel tasting

In tandem with the opening-up of new terroirs, there’s been a trend away from power and oak to a more refreshing style. Better vineyard management to reduce vigour and yield, balance leaf canopy and harvest more intelligently make a contribution, along with cellar techniques such as small batch fermentation, hand-plunging, whole bunches and better use of oak.

Thanks to the adaptability of the Aussies, there’s an ongoing redraft of the viticultural map of Australia in general – and Shiraz in particular. Even if radical shifts occur due to climate change, over a third of Australia’s vineyards are as cool as Bordeaux and can benefit in the short term from warmer temperatures. So Shiraz seems set to flourish as the growing territorial diversity manifests itself across an equal diversity of wine styles.

The scores

165 wines tasted

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Australian Shiraz (85% minimum), priced at £15 or more. One wine per producer was permitted.

Exceptional 2

Outstanding 8

Highly Recommended 84

Recommended 67

Commended 4

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 0

Continue reading below

Exceptional & Outstanding wines from the panel tasting:

See all 165 wines from the panel tasting

The results

The Shiraz landscape is shifting and there are many excellent wines at the premium level – especially if you wait a few years before opening them, says Amy Wislocki.

After two days tasting their way through 165 Australian Shiraz priced at £15 and above, our experts emerged ebullient. ‘Delighted!’ exclaimed Roger Jones. ‘On this showing, I’m impressed by where Australia is going in terms of its premium Shiraz,’ agreed Tina Gellie.

The competition from other global wine regions is stiff. ‘There’s Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand, for example,’ said Jones, ‘and South Africa is on the up.’ Anthony Rose concurred: ‘Many countries and regions are doing a fantastic job with Shiraz, but Australia is still at the forefront of that variety and breadth of regionality.’

In the discussion around specific regions, there were clear front-runners. Gellie pronounced Adelaide Hills ‘by far the standout region’ for its purity and vibrancy.

For Jones, it was Adelaide Hills too, with Clare Valley hot on its heels. ‘Adelaide Hills was absolutely stunning: fresh, focused, exciting and linear. It’s Syrah to me, not Shiraz. You sip these wines and it’s perfection. Clare is another exciting area – I like the perfumed restraint and elegance. I think it will take over from Barossa,’ he said.

‘In a sense, Adelaide Hills is a newcomer and it did brilliantly in the tasting,’ added Rose, who also loved the Clare wines. He also tipped Frankland River in Western Australia as a promising source of premium Shiraz.

As Rose pointed out, however, winemaking styles are so varied that it would be misleading to attribute a single style to each region. ‘The region is a guideline, but what’s more important – and more interesting ultimately – is the producer, the brand and the winemaker,’ he said. ‘Within each region there’s a massive variation in winemaking styles, from the almost medium-bodied to the very full-bodied to the overly full-bodied, super-ripe, Porty styles that are traditional.’

He added that the best wines were those that have ‘human input in the vineyard; where the winemaker has made sure to have raw material which constitutes 90% of the quality and character of the wine. The quality in the vineyard really shone through.’

The main message to come through was that these are, in the main, wines that need time to show at their best. ‘Please buy these young wines, but give them time in the cellar,’ urged Rose, ‘in particular the Barossa and McLaren Vale wines. Eight, 10 or even 12 years makes all the difference when it comes to complexity.’

‘We worked out quite quickly that you can’t taste Barossa wines for at least three or four years – and I’d hold off drinking them for at least 10,’ agreed Jones. ‘Lower-priced wines don’t need as much cellar time, but I’m concerned that producers are releasing £60 bottles of 2016 Shiraz now.’ Gellie agreed. ‘I know it’s expensive to keep wines back, but these are being released too early,’ she said. ‘The best wines were those with three or four years of bottle age, and unfortunately most consumers aren’t getting to see or appreciate them.’

‘Overall, 2014 seemed to be the point at which we could taste the maturing style of wine people would want to buy – savoury wines with more nuance and interest,’ she added. ‘The 2016s and 2015s were pretty closed,’ agreed Jones. ‘Once you got to the 2014s you suddenly saw excitement.’

Buy these premium wines, our tasters agreed, be patient and lay them down – even for just a few years, though ideally longer – and you’ll be rewarded.

Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:

Tina Gellie

Gellie is Decanter’s associate editor and has worked for the brand since 2008. An awarded wine writer and editor, she won several scholarships on the way to getting her WSET Diploma. She has more than 15 years’ experience in wine publishing, including as acting editor of Wine International. Before her wine career she was a newspaper journalist in London and Australia.

Vinteloper, SH/14, Adelaide Hills 2014

I’ve always loved David Bowley’s wines, and the move to sourcing Shiraz grapes from Adelaide Hills over McLaren Vale shows in its bright acidity and fresh fruit purity. Lifted and balanced; the 18 months of oak are well integrated. 98 Drink 2018-2026

Castagna, Genesis, McLaren Vale 2013

Julian Castagna’s lifted, vital Shiraz-Viognier blend from a 4ha biodynamic vineyard was a joy after so many over-oaked, high-alcohol examples. Violets and leathery blackcurrants on a silky palate with dusty, sappy elegance. 97 Drink 2018-2025

Payten & Jones, Major Kong, Yarra Valley 2015

A lighter, more quaffable style of Shiraz from 50% whole bunch and 50% whole berry fruit, bottled unfined and unfiltered with just nine months of oak to keep the bacony blue fruits to the fore. 95 Drink 2018-2024

Roger Jones

Jones and his wife Sue own Michelin-starred restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. His combined talents as a wine critic and chef have seen him set up Restaurant Australia for Wine Australia and The Tri Nations Wine Challenge to promote the wines of South Africa, New Zealand and Australia. He is wine consultant to The Caterer and contributing editor for The-Buyer.net.

Sidewood, Mappinga, Adelaide Hills 2015

This sustainable Adelaide Hills winery was founded in 2004 by Owen and Cassandra Inglis. Winemaker is Darryl Catlin, previously of Shaw + Smith. A beautiful, complete wine, which also shows great value. 98 Drink 2018-2025

Kilikanoon, Attinga 1865, Clare Valley 2013

This has stepped up a level since we judged it a Gold at last year’s DWWA. Hand-picked fruit from 150-yearold vines give this Clare Valley wine deep intensity but while still keeping a youthful feel. 98 Drink 2018-2028

Rolf Binder, Heyson, Barossa Valley 2013

An opulent wine that’s still youthful, made from dry-grown Barossa Shiraz planted in 1972, with a touch of Cabernet (4%). Balanced perfectly, with immense purity. 98 Drink 2018-2025

Anthony Rose

Rose is a wine critic who contributes to a variety of publications, including Decanter and The World of Fine Wine. He has won a number of awards, among them three Glenfiddich Wine Writer of the Year Awards and a Louis Roederer International Wine Columnist of the Year Award. A founding member of The Wine Gang, his own blog is anthonyrosewine.com.

Sidewood, Mappinga, Adelaide Hills 2015

The elegantly perfumed Adelaide Hills Shiraz is sourced from Ashwood estate. Marked by a spine of cool-climate acidity that balances the rich blackberry fruit. 98 Drink 2018-2025

Savaterre, Beechworth, Victoria 2014

The Beechworth region is clearly no one-trick pony as winemaker Keppell Smith’s delicious, Côte-Rôtie-like Shiraz from the Victorian Alps attests, with its pepper and spice notes and silky texture. 96 Drink 2019-2026

Schild Estate, Ben Schild Reserve, Barossa Valley 2014

When the Barossa Valley gets it right, it’s capable of producing some of the best-value Shiraz in the world. This excellent value red has succulently dark fruit and smoked meat notes. 95 Drink 2018-2025

Australian Shiraz: the facts

Area planted 39,893ha in 2017 (Australia’s most widely planted variety, 46% of plantings); peaked at about 45,000ha in 2009

Production More than 500,000 tonnes in 2017 (47% of red crush; national average purchase price per tonne up by 12%)

Top regions by volume Riverland (26%), Murray Darling-Swan Hill (15%), Riverina (14%) Top ‘cooler’ climate regions Barossa Valley (11%), McLaren Vale (6%) Top export destination China

Australian Shiraz: vintages

2017 Volumes were 15% up on 2016. A later harvest meant good overall quality.

2016 Started out warm, with a cool growing season. Early harvest for structured, well-balanced fruit.

2015 Warm year with rapid ripening: generosity, perfume and silky textures.

2014 Cool and late season after a warm summer. Good ripening gave intense aromatics and flavours.

2013 Hot and dry. Forward and generous wines, but aromatics are subdued on occasion.

2012 Cool and dry summer led to a fine, concentrated vintage.

2011 Cold, wet and late; a vintage to forget for many. Yet good in Western Australia.

2010 Mild, with a long growing season. This was a classic year.

2009 Reduced volumes but wines were generously textured.

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Wine producers in Margaret River have explained how an abundance of a particular tree blossom diverted birds from eating their grapes in the 2018 vintage…

The blossom of the Marri trees in Margaret River has protected wine grapes from being eaten by birds, said wine producers.

‘We were treated to a spectacular “mega blossom” of the Marri trees,’ Cath Oates, of Oates End, told Decanter.com.

‘The most blossom in living memory which kept bird pressure to almost zero.’

The Marri trees produce a kind of nectar that birds like to eat, making them less likely to go after the grapes.

‘The flowering of the Marri has a great influence on food supply for the marauding Silver-eyes, Wattle Birds and Parrots, that find grapes attractive when there is poor availability of flowering gums as a preferred food,’ said Bruce Pearse, viticulturist and Margaret River Wine Association Board Member.

‘The dispersion of birds away from vineyards’ and deeper into native forestry as they chase out the last of the blossom creates a redistribution of bird populations and slows the return to vineyards.’

Speaking about the 2018 vintage in Margaret River, Pearse said that sea breezes combined with cool nights have ensured a ‘longer period of maturation on the vine and higher natural acid content’ for both red and white wines.

Animals in vineyards

Depending on where the vineyard is, there are various animals that can have an appetite for grapes.

In Germany, raccoons are an issue, whereas in South Africa, baboons are a problem. In Tuscany, winemakers petitioned for a cull of wild boar after they were eating the grapes.

However, some vineyards have also moved towards using animals as natural pest control or weed fighters.

Small sheep have been used in England, for example, to eat weeds. In California, falcons and hawks can be used to deter smaller birds from eating grapes.

Another way of protecting grapes from birds is to use netting over the vines. However, nets reduced the amount of sunlight able to reach the vines and so this is not suitable for all vineyards.

Additional reporting by Sylvia Wu.

Peter Forrestal considers what makes this region of Western Australia so highly regarded, and recommends great wines for the cellar and for drinking, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc and even a Tempranillo.

Margaret River celebrated 50 years of winemaking in style in 2017; the region has never made better wines.

It’s arguably Australia’s premier Cabernet region, its Chardonnays are among the country’s finest, and many of these are world-class wines.

No one else in Australia is making better everyday whites than its Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, and the experimentation of the past decade has led to a raft of Bordeaux blanc lookalikes that have critics and the general public salivating.

The show record for the wines of Margaret River in the past decade is stunning. There are some irritations too, such as a swag of young winemakers stirring up trouble and challenging orthodoxies, making small-batch wines that charm only sommeliers.

Still, it wasn’t so long ago that most of the region’s best producers were doing that kind of thing themselves: often working unconventionally to finesse their handcrafted wines.

Margaret River was legally delineated in 1996 following a blueprint of Australia’s foremost viticultural research scientist Dr John Gladstones. He responded to a request from Vanya Cullen and Keith Mugford in 1999 to draw up proposed sub-regional boundaries.

This has been the subject of much discussion by winemakers who have been keen to explore the possibilities of particular localities. And there has been similar interest in the production of single-site wines.

While there has been a great deal of experimentation across Australia with new grape varieties, this trend has not taken root in Margaret River. Tempranillo is an exception and there are some impressive examples of the variety. A few growers are attempting to revive interest in Chenin Blanc and helping to erase the memory of sweet Chenins of yesteryear.

The real key to the region’s success, however, has been its climate, with consistent wet winters and dry growing seasons. One has to go back to 2006 to find a difficult vintage – and even that produced many exemplary whites.

The character of Margaret River remains pretty much unchanged today as it was at its birth in the 1960s, with the majority of the wineries family-owned or driven by families. There is much more investment than before, but the region still boasts many small cellar doors to delight visitors. What has changed is the quality of accommodation, winery restaurants and tourist facilities – and consequently visitor numbers.

If you haven’t been to Margaret River, make a plan, and until then taste through a few of my 50 best buys.

 View all of Peter’s top Margaret River wines here

And you can also find a few examples tasted by other experts, including for our ‘best wines of 2017 feature’ and Australian Riesling panel tasting

Peter’s 10 top scorers:

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Forget about Chardonnay and Riesling for a few days and enjoy Australian winemakers' uncanny ability to get the best from myriad white grape varieties, says Matthew Jukes...

You will already be familiar with Australia’s two greatest white wines styles – dry Riesling and Chardonnay.

Keen wine lovers have known this for years, but less adventurous oenophiles seem to have only recently cottoned onto the fact that Burgundy and its Chardonnays and serious German or Austrian dry Riesling cannot compete with the Australian icon brands in terms of value for money and, in many cases, longevity.

I would add dry Semillon to this list as a style of wine which Australia has made its own. While I love Bordeaux Blanc, the uniquely fascinating Hunter Valley style of Semillon, made without the oak barrel component (so beloved of the Bordelais) and which ages like clockwork for often two decades or more is spine-tinglingly attractive.

But what of Australia’s other styles of white and sparkling wines?

For the past 15 years, I have been compiling a report of my favourites: ‘100 Best Australian Wines’.

For the first time, I’m sharing with Decanter my entries from the ‘other whites’ sections of this report in the hope that readers might feel compelled to whet their palates with some of the more diverse wines made Down Under.

View all of Matthew’s tasting notes from this article

Australian winemakers have an uncanny knack of knowing what a wine will taste like long before a vineyard has been planted with an untested variety. I find this intuitive vinous guesswork utterly compelling. They are unswervingly accurate with their palate predictions and this means that they hit the intended target more often than not.

It is this experience of their own unique terroir and also their understanding of the myriad of global styles of winemaking which gives them the utmost confidence when trialling new wines.

I am often amazed at the speed in which tricky white varieties like Viognier, Fiano, Vermentino, Arneis and Marsanne, among others, have already all been made with world class results in Australia. Sparklers, too, in spite of warmer daytime temperatures are also starting to go head-to-head with other world standards.

This is because they are invariably made from noble varieties and they are often put together with economies of scale which make their price tags increasingly attractive.

All of these wine styles are built from a base of fine, tight, balancing acidity. You cannot make a lush, alluring white wine if there is not the equivalent ratio of tense, mouth-watering acid. Australia seems to understand this more than most other winemaking countries. After all, it is this component which has made their elite Chardonnays so downright delicious and amazingly ageworthy.

This rule holds true with other grape varieties, too. Even the lustiest of white grapes, Gewurztraminer, rarely rides solo in Australia, because the wine fraternity understand that it needs tempering and enlivening with either early picks or other, tautly acidic grapes to bring it to life.

My selection is a medley of wine styles, all different, and all fascinating, which I believe sum up Australia’s modern white wine scene. The running themes are internationally informed winemaking, unrivalled value for money and uniquely delicious and bright flavours. In short, they are some of the modern standard bearers for today’s global wine industry.

Matthew’s top unusual Australian wines made from white grape varieties:

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As Margaret River winemakers are busily preparing for 50th anniversary celebrations next year, Credaro Wines has revealed the region’s origins in fact date back to the 1920s, from an Italian grape variety called Fragola.

Margaret River history

It is often regarded that Vasse Felix, Cullen, Cape Mentelle and Leeuwin Estate were the region’s pioneers for producing world-class Bordeaux style wines from the late 1960s.

However, the Meleri and Credaro families upheld the European winemaking traditions, planting vines for commercial production in 1915 with a five-acre plot of Fragola.

In the 1920s, Fragola – also known as Isabella – was sold in flagons for two shillings at the farm gate and local dance halls.

‘My great grandfather, Cesare, migrated to Australia from northern Italy and purchased 167-acres of dense, virgin bush in the northern district of Margaret River. Cesare helped make wine and harvest the grapes at the neighbouring vineyard owned by the Meleri family,’ said Credaro Vigneron and Marketing Manager, Matthew Credaro.

‘Commercial production evolved from there with the sale of Fragola to the local community, where it was fondly dubbed ‘red dynamite’.’

Cuttings from the original vineyard were later planted by Cesare’s son Albert, at the family’s Woolston Vineyard, where Fragola continues to be made in the family tradition.

The estate has since expanded to 140-hectares across seven vineyard sites within the district.

‘This story reflects our history as part of the foundations of the Margaret River region and acknowledges the importance of family members working together to create a future for the next generation.’

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While Margaret River is reputed for its Chardonnay and Cabernets, some new European varieties have emerged in the region - including one from the Balkans - that are further increasing the diversity of Australian cultivars.

Amato Vino is one such Margaret River producer who is stepping away from the mainstream varieties and is the first in Australia to produce the ancient Balkans variety, Slankamenka Bela.

‘I’ve always had a penchant for unusual varieties but it wasn’t until I attended an alternative varieties wine show that I decided to make wine from new plantings of Nero d’Avola, Vermentino and Grillo,’ said owner Brad Wehr.

‘The Slankamenka Bela came about by accident as I thought we had planted a Grillo – a Sicilian variety I am fond of – but after two years of trials we were doubtful the variety was actually Grillo. We undertook DNA testing and discovered it was the Slankamenka Bela, a variety nobody had ever heard of.’

This inimitable wine is medium-bodied and rushes about the mouth with zesty tropical and citrus fruit characters, with a firm line of talc-like minerality.

To pay homage to his family’s Austrian roots, Wills Domain owner Darren Haunold has introduced the first plantings of Scheurebe to the region. This aromatic grape variety, which is mainly grown in Germany and Austria, is a crossing of Riesling and Bouquet Blanc and is certainly tolerating the region’s Mediterranean climate.

‘I wanted to establish a new variety that suited both the terroir and my family’s history. The Scheurebe is grown at a slightly damper spot in the vineyard which suits the variety perfectly,’ said Haunold.

• QUIZ: Take Decanter.com’s wine grape names quiz

A highly knowledgeable audience attended a fascinating, sell-out blind tasting masterclass at Decanter’s London HQ last month, which was led by three international stars of the fine wine world. Decanter Content Director John Stimpfig reports.

The theme was Great Cabernets of the World in honour of Santa Rita’s exceptional Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Casa Real which is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.

The tasting was led by Cecilia Torres, Casa Real’s renowned and experienced winemaker and Brian Croser, Decanter’s 2004 Man of the Year. In addition, the proceedings were moderated by Decanter’s Consultant Editor, Steven Spurrier, who knows a thing or two about Blind Tastings of Premium Cabernet Sauvignon – next year is the 40th anniversary of his famous Judgement of Paris.

‘The objective was to explore the differences of style and structure of great Cabernet Sauvignons from some of the greatest terroirs and producers around the world,’ explained Croser, whose guiding winemaking philosophy has been to match noble grape varieties to exceptional vineyard sites. ‘Each of these wines has a very definitive sense of place,’ he explained.

Cullen Diana Madeline, Margaret River, Western Australia 2011

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 8% Cab Franc and aged for 19 months in barrique. Grown on old granite and gravelly sandy loam. Youthful, restrained, fine tannins. Leafy and cedary notes with a fruit profile of cassis, cola, mulberry and leather. Excellent balance and length. Low, medium body and structure with excellent acidic cut. Subtle and complex food wine.

17.75/20pts (92/100pts)

Price: £59.50 – £63.29, Old Bridge Wine, Master of Malt

Drink 2016-2025.

Alc 12.5%

Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA 2011

Monte Bello’s Cabernet Sauvignon vines are grown on a sliver of the sedimentary Pacific sea bed in the Santa Cruz Mountains in California. The wine was mostly (90%) matured in American oak barrels for sixteen months and provides a voluptuous nose of coffee, tobacco and primary black fruits. On the palate, were more of the same, together with intense, juicy black cherries, damson and cassis. Great vivacity and freshness, it was all wrapped up in dense yet ripe and grainy tannins and beguilingly low alcohol – just 12.8%. The finish was long, savoury and immensely satisfying.

18.5/20pts (95/100pts)

Price £84.99 – £100, James Nicholson, Hennings

Drink 2017-2035+

Alc 12.8%

Te Mata Coleraine, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2010

Hawkes Bay’s cool climate and classic free draining soils at the base of the Havelock Hills combined resulted in a delicious, yet more austere style. Dry, and savoury with sweet and sour notes to the leafy cassis fruit, this was much less exuberant than the Monte Bello. Good freshness, medium weight and a persistent finish.

16.75/20pts (89/100pts)

Price: £17.95 Berry Bros and Rudd

Drink: 2015- 2023+

Alc 13%

Chateau Pontet Canet, 5eme Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 2011

Impressively ripe, sweet black fruits, ripe, upright tannin and lively acidity. There is a hidden power and notes of bay leaf, minerals and cigar box leading to a long finish. 2011 was a challenging vintage on the left bank and this was clearly an excellent and sterling effort.

17.75/20pts (92/100pts)

Price: POA Lea & Sandeman, Armit Wines

Drink: 2016-2025+

Alc 13.5%

Carmen Gold Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipu Valley, Chile 2010

Hedonistic and exotic with eucalyptus and sweet, spicy mulberry fruit. Lots of rippling tannins and mid palate texture. Generous, powerful and showy thanks to its warmer climate and alluvial soils. Another excellent expression of Cabernet.

17/20pts (90/100pts)

Price: £41.21 – £46.32 The Drink Shop, Corking Wines, Exel Wines

Drink: 2015-2025+

Alc 14.4%

Santa Rita, Casa Real, Alto Jahuel Maipo Valley, Chile 2010 

Still beguilingly youthful with a cool spice and spearmint nose. In the mouth there’s warm climate sweet cassis, cedar, good acidity and generous, evolving tannins. Vibrant, expressive and long.

17.75pts/20 (92/100pts)

Price: N/A UK

Drink: 2015-2025+

Alc 14.4%

Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2011 

The fruit for this comes from sandy gravely loam over clay and granite in Stellenbosch’s warm climate. The vines are up to 20 years old and give plenty of spice and power to the wine. But I also noted some stewed vegetables and burnt rubber flavours which marred the wine.

16/20pts (86/100pts)

Price: £11.24 Slurp

Drink 2015-2020

Alc 13.5%

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France 2011 

From a superbly sited terroir (gravel on clay-gravel subsoil), this classic claret has a floral nose, savoury leafiness, ‘a point’ acidity, perfect poise and a fruit spectrum ranging from plums, to roses and cherries. Fine tannins and a lingering finish. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot.

17.75/20pts (92/100pts)

Price: £27.50 – £30 Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare

Drink 2015-2025+

Alc 13.5%

Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy 2011 

Great power, balance and concentration. Cloves, cinnamon, leather and blueberries leap from the glass. On the palate is smoked meat, brambly blackberry fruit and toasty oak. The tannins are firm and robust and there’s a good linear acidity from start to finish. Still needs time.

18/20pts (93+/100pts)

Price: £105-116 Armit, Fine & Rare, Private Cellar, The Wine Society, Try Wines Expertise

Drink 2018-2032+

Alc 13.5%

Santa Rita, Casa Real, Alto Jahuel, Maipo Valley, Chile 2001 

Proof positive how well this wine can age and develop. One sniff revealed toffee, undergrowth and a savoury leafiness which followed through seamlessly onto the palate. Here the tannins were creamy, grainy and superbly textured. Its flavours in the mouth had clearly evolved beautifully and there was a lovely earthy, sous-bois character alongside caramel, cassis and pencil notes. All very correct and classical.

18/20pts (93/100pts) 

Price: N/A UK

Drink: Now – 2022

Alc 14.3%

Book your next Decanter event:

Simply Italian – Great wines: Consumer tasting – Monday 7th September 2015

Simply Italian – Great wines: Trade tasting – Monday 7th September 2015

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter – Saturday 7th & Sunday 8th November 2015

Fraser Gallop has become one of the first Australian wine producers in Margaret River to use 'cigar' shaped oak barrels, in an effort to make the winery's Sauvignon Blanc more distinctive.

Fraser Gallop has begun trialling the barrels to try to create a more complex style of Australian Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaker Clive Otto said the cigar barrels were intended to maximise lees contact and enhance thiol characteristics in the wine.

These 265-litre barrels are longer and narrower than traditional barrels and were initially designed for use in Didier Dagueneau’s renowned Silex wines.

It was whilst Otto was doing a vintage in Bordeaux last year that he first tasted the Silex and decided it was time to trial similar barrels at Fraser Gallop Estate.

‘The Silex delivers an inordinate diversity of flavour characteristics. I want to create a similarly complex wine; one that will be distinctive in the Margaret River region and have depth and texture rather than being entirely fruit-driven with typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc acidity,’ Otto told Decanter.com.

Otto has used the barrels for the winery’s 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, which spent 10 months on oak before being blended with Semillon for the not-yet released 2014 Parterre SSB.

While the cigar barrels began as an experiment, Otto is pleased with the results so far. ‘It is only early days, but already our 2014 Parterre is noticeably more textural and is layered with a profusion of different flavour characteristics.’

Otto is not alone trialling new styles in Margaret River. LVMH-owned Cape Mentelle has invested in 3,500-litre wooden cuvees to use for its best parcels of Cabernet.

‘These oak vats balance out the Cabernet on a softer, gentler level that makes the fruit really shine through,’ said winemaker, Evan Thompson.

Its potential was spotted a decade before that of more famous neighbour Margaret River. But only now is this wine region – Australia’s largest – being appreciated for its diversity of varieties, climates and soils, as well as its focus on single-vineyard wines. Sarah Ahmed takes a trip to the wild west

Great Southern at a glance

Sub-regions Albany, Denmark, Frankland River, Mount Barker, Porongurup

Area under vine 2,487 hectares (2012)

Soils gravelly/sandy iron-rich laterites (Marri loams) and Karri loams derived from gneissic or weathered granite rock

Main grapes Reds (62%) Shiraz (618ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (525ha), Merlot (112ha), Cabernet Franc (69ha), Pinot Noir (68ha) Whites (38%) Chardonnay (365ha), Sauvignon Blanc (324ha), Riesling (177ha), Semillon (141ha)

Number of wineries about 70

Annual production 13,840 tonnes crushed (2012) or 15,000 cases, depending on size

Quick links:

• Six producers to watch
• 10 Great Southern wines to try

Does size always count? If biggest were best, Australia’s largest wine-growing area, Great Southern, would be much better known than its famous sibling Margaret River, which is just an eighth of its size. However, historically, ‘to be serious and recognised in wine in Western Australia in the 1990s, you needed something in Margaret River’, says Jeff Burch of Howard Park. This, together with Great Southern’s ‘more marginal vintage conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon’, explains why this top producer also makes wine in Margaret River.

Leading light Larry Cherubino (Larry Cherubino Wines) laments that Great Southern ‘has been responsible for a lot of Western Australia’s success,but has never been able to leverage its ability to produce some of the best fruit in the state’. Which seems a shame when its ‘very promising potential’ was first spotted by Dr Harold Olmo, visiting professor of viticulture from the University of California, in 1955 – a full decade before Dr John Gladstones’ report did the same for Margaret River.

But then Great Southern is Western Australia’s wild west. Even more sparsely populated in the 1950s and still focused on farming and forestry, the region’s first vineyard was not planted until 1965; its first commercial wine, made by Plantagenet, emerged in 1975.

However, 60 years after Olmo highlighted Great Southern’s suitability for ‘high-quality light table wines’, and 40 years after the region’s first commercial bottling, Western Australia’s coolest wine region is edging into the limelight. The gifts of nature which supported his conclusion are unchanged: the towering karri forests and lush green pasture which point to good winter rainfall; moderately fertile soils; and, where it borders the chilly Southern Ocean, a temperate climate cool enough to promote slow maturity of the fruit.

The vogue for cool-climate styles has certainly boosted listings for Great Southern’s elegant wines. But for Burch, this boost is also due to more ‘small producers focused on quality, recognising the benefits of the region’s climate and different terroirs and collectively making a bigger noise’.

Second-generation producer Hunter Smith (Frankland Estate) agrees, and attributes the growth trend to ‘smaller individuals [who] are picking good sites and working in small ways’ as well as a fall in global demand for ‘cheaper, cheerful Oz wine’. This softening demand has also resulted in a quality focused vineyard rationalisation – ‘a lot was planted in the 1990s and a lot has been removed and grafted this decade’, says Cherubino.

Single-vineyard focus

Cherubino, who was previously at Houghton, and Tony Davies of Snake & Herring (and ex-Howard Park) exemplify this trend. Having made wine for bigger players, they have a bird’s-eye view of the region and the inside track on its most glittering grapes. As for grower/producers, with ‘fruit salad planting’ on the wane, new boutique wineries such as Oakcliffe and Singlefile look beyond their own vineyards – even sub-regions – to secure the best grapes from the best sites for their single-vineyard ranges. This terroir-driven approach has influenced larger players too. Plantagenet’s Cath Oates has ‘focused on the absolute best, in smaller quantities’, while at Howard Park, 10 years of research went into locating its Mount Barrow vineyard.

With its large footprint (16,712km squared over five sub-regions) and diverse terroir, Great Southern’s repertoire extends beyond Margaret River’s core red and white Bordeaux and Chardonnay grapes, also encompassing Riesling, Shiraz and Pinot Noir. With higher rainfall, cloud cover and sea breezes, the relatively marginal coastal sub-regions of Albany and Denmark best suit whites and lighter reds, especially Pinot Noir. The drier inland sub-regions of Frankland River, Mount Barker and Porongurup have warmer days but much colder nights; whites and reds are structured and intense. Flatter, warmer and drier than Mount Barker or Porongurup, Frankland River hosts some of the region’s most powerful reds, notably Houghton’s Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon from the Justin Vineyard. But, as Smith points out, Great Southern ‘is very site specific’. He should know; Frankland Estate makes some of Australia’s best Rieslings. (See our Australian Riesling panel tasting results).

Bone-dry Rieslings – more austere than their South Australian counterparts – have consistently excelled across Great Southern. Now that top sites escape the blenders’ melting pot, Frankland Estate’s terroir-driven, single-site Rieslings have company, especially from Porongurup’s uniquely elevated, granitic outcrop. Also on the rise, more textural, often off-dry Rieslings are naturally fermented and lees-aged in old wood. Deviating even further from the region’s classic lean style, La Violetta’s Das Sakrileg Riesling features a dash of Gewurztraminer.

In Denmark, a new breed of flinty, funky Chablis-inspired, early-picked Chardonnays like Castelli’s Il Liris and Singlefile’s The Vivienne offer a point of difference from Margaret River’s muscular wines. Naturally high in acidity, these are ‘Chardonnays for Riesling lovers’, says Castelli winemaker Mike Garland, who sees ‘huge potential’ for sparkling wines. Chardonnays from Porongurup and Howard Park’s neighbouring Mount Barrow vineyard in eastern Mount Barker similarly have great natural acid line.

Hands-off winemaking

Denmark, Porongurup and Mount Barrow are making great strides with intense, savoury styles of Pinot Noir. For Burgundy’s Pascal Marchand who, with Jeff Burch, makes the Marchand & Burch label, grapes were chosen from Porongurup and eastern Mount Barker ‘because the acidity was finer, the altitude of the sites gave us the cool temperature needed, there was vine age and slower ripening’.

Although second-generation winemaker Rob Diletti of Castle Rock has led the charge in Porongurup (and for Riesling) with old-vine clonal material, newer Burgundy clones are enhancing Great Southern’s offer. Referring to his 2004 Mount Barrow plantings (five Chardonnay and six Pinot Noir clones), Burch says, ‘I only wished I started 25 years ago.’

Mount Barker and Frankland have long been known for savoury, medium-bodied Shiraz, but a shift towards earlier picking and less extractive Pinot Noir winemaking (whole bunch, older, larger format oak) has reinforced their floral, spicy cool-climate credentials. Albany’s mild, humid climate is generally ill-suited to Shiraz. However, from the Porongurup Range National Park’s eastern end, 30-year-old vines on Kalgan River vineyard’s leanest ironstone gravels lend a distinctively bloody tang to Willoughby Park’s brooding Kalgan Ironrock Shiraz.

For later ripener Cabernet Sauvignon, a dramatic reduction in winter rainfall and consistently warmer temperatures have improved its lot compared with 10 years ago, says Oates. Still, says Burch, ‘site is super critical’, as are low-yielding old vines and the Houghton clone; it’s rare for Howard Park’s multi-regional flagship Abercrombie Cabernet to be dominated by Great Southern fruit as it was in 2010. Distinguishing it from its Margaret River blending partner, Burch notes ‘Our Cabernets have more lifted perfume, finer and more savoury fruit than the comparatively sweet fruit of Margaret River and lithe, sometimes sinewy, tannins.’

Where Cherubino feels ‘Great Southern’s quality, diversity and value are just starting to be well understood’, the surge in single-vineyard wines certainly bears out his observation that ‘perhaps it has more to offer than any other region because of its size, varied climates and soils’. What’s more, the trend fits with Olmo’s vision of wines ‘of the highest possible quality’ which he foresaw would be ‘so unique that imitation by other winegrowing districts is impossible’.

Written by Sarah Ahmed

Next page

Its potential was spotted a decade before that of more famous neighbour Margaret River. But only now is this wine region – Australia’s largest – being appreciated for its diversity of varieties, climates and soils, as well as its focus on single-vineyard wines. Sarah Ahmed takes a trip to the wild west

Great Southern: Six producers to watch

Plantagenet winery

Quick links:

• 10 Great Southern wines to try

La Violetta

The Das Sakrileg (‘Sacrilege’) Riesling sums up the maverick behind this garagiste label with no vineyards or winery. Winemaker Andrew Hoadley subverts Australia’s technocratic tradition of highly protective winemaking. Textural, spicy, mineral, sappily fruited wines reveal clever use of skin contact, oxidative handling, wild ferment and solids. Shiraz especially sings. Vineyard sourcing for his eclectic, idiosyncratic range is impeccable.

Burch Family Wines

Western Australia’s largest family-owned and operated wine producer. A huge, very polished range (more than 80 wines) includes popular brand MadFish and upmarket, 90% estate grown, terroir-driven labels Howard Park and Marchand & Burch. The partnership with Burgundy’s Pascal Marchand produces among the region’s best Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

Frankland Estate

Inspired by visits to France, including two vintages working at Bordeaux’s Château Senejac, sheep farmers Barrie Smith and Judi Cullam established Frankland Estate in 1988. A site-specific approach swiftly put their single-vineyard Rieslings on the map. Organic and biodynamic viticulture and minimal intervention in the winery have further amplified terroir expression and freshness for the estate which puts the finesse into Frankland River. Mediumbodied, perfumed reds (especially the Shiraz- and Cabernet Franc-dominated Olmo’s Reward) are finely honed.

Larry Cherubino

Since going his own way in 2005 following stints for Hardys and Houghton, Cherubino has been instrumental in raising Great Southern’s profile. Screaming provenance, Cherubino’s accomplished, very extensive five-tier range abounds with sub-regional and single-vineyard wines. Though focused on classic regional strengths (Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignons and Porongurup Rieslings especially), the Laissez Faire Fiano nods to Cherubino’s Italian heritage.

Plantagenet

Though sizeable (60,000 cases including the second Omrah label), Great Southern’s first winery (1974) started out in a humble apple-packing shed. Deploying Mount Barker’s oldest vineyards to great effect (Bouverie, 1968 and Wyjup, 1971), it has an enviable track record for ageworthy Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. Recently returned to Western Australia via New Zealand, Cath Oates’ lighter touch with oak enhances the range’s cool-climate credentials, as does the all-new Juxtapose range which includes an off-dry, textural Riesling.

Snake & Herring

Established in 2010, rising stars Tony Davis (Snake) and Redmond Sweeney (Herring) take ‘a very scalpel approach to the vineyards and sourcing small parcels – a few rows even – for small volume wines’, says Davis. Good-value, sub-regionally differentiated expressions of the same grape have great drinkability. From the state’s latest-picked grapes, The Distance Higher Ground Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates that, in the right spot, Porongurup can make finely-honed Larry Cherubino Cabernet Sauvignon.

Next page Previous page

Its potential was spotted a decade before that of more famous neighbour Margaret River. But only now is this wine region – Australia’s largest – being appreciated for its diversity of varieties, climates and soils, as well as its focus on single-vineyard wines. Sarah Ahmed takes a trip to the wild west

Great Southern: 10 wines to try

See the bottles here

Frankland Estate, Netley Road Riesling, Frankland River 2012

19pts/20 (96/100pts)

A 1966-planted ironstone ridge accounts for the gravelly minerality of this aromatic, crisp, apple and citrus bone dry Riesling. Leesageing lends richness and weight.

Price: £21 Berry Bros & Rudd, Woodwinters

Drink 2015-2025

Alc 11%

Plantagenet, Museum Release, Riesling, Mount Barker 2006

17pts/20 (90/100pts)

Though developing honey and petrol notes, with great mineral acid drive, its lime and lemon fruit remains well-focused. Very pure; bone dry.

Price: £17.99 Hawkshead Wines, Liberty Wines, Prohibition Wine, Slurp

Drink 2015-2020

Alc 12.5%

Snake & Herring, High & Dry Riesling, Porongurup 2013

17pts/20 (90/100pts)

Late ripening 20-year-old vines produce great flavour intensity. Bone dry, floral and mineral, with lingering, ripe citrus and juicy greengage fruit.

Price: £15.99 Marks & Spencer

Drink 2015-2020

Alc 12.5%

Howard Park, Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

18.5pts/20 (95/100pts)

Mainly from the 1979-planted Dennis vineyard in Mount Barker. Great cedar, blueberry and cassis lift and concentration with savoury balsamic notes. Sinewy tannins and firm acidity give poise.

Price: £43-£45 Exel Wines, Fine & Rare, Great Western Wine, Olde World Wines

Drink 2015-2030

Alc 14%

Frankland Estate, Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River 2010

18pts/20 (93/100pts)

A fragrant Cabernet Franc-dominated Bordeaux blend with fine tannins, great delicacy and finesse to its floral and cigar box-scented red and blackcurrant fruit.

Price: £29 (2007) Deeside Drinks, Woodwinters

Drink 2015-2020

Alc 14%

Harewood Estate, F Block Pinot Noir, Denmark 2013

18pts/20 (93/100pts)

Fine, intense and structured with forest floor undertones to its pretty red fruits and delicious mineral acidity; Burgundy clones.

Price: POA Eurowines

Drink 2015-2020

Alc 13.5%

La Violetta, La Ciorna Shiraz 2008

18pts/20 (93/100pts)

Kalgan River vineyard old-vine Shiraz with a dash of Viognier. Cornas-like inky blackberry and currant with savoury, peppery tannins and a bloody, ironstone tang.

Price: £28.80 Bottle Apostle

Drink 2015-2018

Alc 14%

Larry Cherubino, Ad Hoc Cruel Mistress Pinot Noir 2013

17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Complex with freshly dug beetroot and forest floor nuances to its supple milk chocolate-laced black cherry and plum fruit. Long, with fine tannins and lingering, mineral acidity.

Price: £14.96-£15.95 Hawkshead Wines, Slurp, Wine Direct

Drink 2015-2017

Alc 13.5%

La Violetta, Up Shiraz, Mount Barker 2013

17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Whole bunch ferment brings black pepper and floral lift to this single-vineyard Shiraz’s fresh blackcurrant fruit. Chalky tannins and fresh acidity emphasise frame and elegance.

Price: N/A UK laviolettawines.com.au

Drink 2015-2018

Alc 13.6%

Marchand & Burch, Mount Barrow Pinot Noir, Mount Barker 2013

17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Silky, violet-scented red cherry, five spice, cedar and fine tannins make for a sensual Pinot with long forest floor and mushroom notes.

Price: £17.50-£19.50 Field & Fawcett, Vin Cognito

Drink 2015-2017

Alc 13.5%

Previous page

The Margaret River wine community is mourning the tragic loss of Willow Bridge Estate winemaker, Simon Burnell, who lost his life in a windsurfing accident last week.

Simon Burnell, 44, suffered spinal and shoulder injuries whilst windsurfing in Margaret River, off the coast of Prevelly Park. Large swells and powerful winds hindered rescue efforts from fellow surfers and despite a wide-scale aerial search, his body was not recovered until the following day.

Simon began his winemaking career in Adelaide with Nepenthe Vineyards, before moving west to Cape Mentelle and more recently, Willow Bridge Estate, where he had been chief winemaker since 2010.

‘On the outside he was imposing, confident, organised and efficient,’ says Rob Mann, his great friend and colleague during his stint at Cape Mentelle. ‘On the inside he was caring, compassionate, dedicated and loyal. The only way you could see both sides of Simon was in his wines.’

Vasse Felix winemaker Virginia Willcock says every vintage is different but 2015 will be remembered by many for the loss of a dear friend. ‘Simon was due to be married in May and was taken on a wild day in the surf at the peak of his career. He was a force in everything he did and was never shy of a challenge, in the surf and in winemaking.’

‘Simon charged hard at life; whether it was big wave sail-boarding or doggedly debating world issues. He was making an incredible difference with the wines at Willow Bridge and will be sorely missed,’ says Brad Wehr, Amato Vino Wines.

Written by Danielle Costley

Cape Mentelle, the Margaret River winery owned by France's LVMH group, has bowed to pressure from local producers by dropping its threat of legal action against Flametree Wines over use of the Wallcliffe name on labels.

The move by Cape Mentelle comes after members of the Margaret River Wine Association voted overwhelmingly to challenge the LVMH-owned estate’s claims to trademark rights on Wallcliffe as a standalone name.

As a result, the association said it would seek to legally protect Wallcliffe as a sub-region.

In a letter from Cape Mentelle to the Margaret River Wine Association, seen by Decanter.com, estate director Rob Mann wrote, ‘Given the reactions voiced during the association meeting on March 27, Cape Mentelle has decided not to pursue wine companies who reference “Wallcliffe” on their labels for breach of trademark.

‘Our recommendation to producers considering the adoption of the term on wine labels is to wait until such time as the sub –regions are further defined and legally adopted through formal registration with the AWBC (Australian Wine & Brandy Corporation) through existing protocols, a process in which we intend to actively take part.’

Cape Mentelle had registered the names Wallcliffe Vineyard, Wallcliffe Winery and Wallcliffe Estate on 11 October 1999. The winery was also trying to trademark ‘Wallcliffe’ as its sole patent with the Australian government.

The letter from Rob Mann does not specify whether that application has been withdrawn.

Prior to today’s development, Cliff Royle, proprietor and winemaker of Flametree, said of Cape Mentelle’s legal threat, ‘I’m at a loss to understand why Cape Mentelle would pick this fight with another producer over something like this.’

Written by Ch’ng Poh Tiong

Margaret River winemakers have voted overwhelmingly in support of retaining the Wallcliffe name as a sub-region, in a challenge to LVMH-owned Cape Mentelle.

Vineyards in Wallcliffe

The vote, held at an emergency winemakers’ meeting this week, means the Margaret River Wine Association will now pursue legal recognition for Wallcliffe as a geographical indication.

The outcome also supports the stance of Flametree and Preveli wineries, who are locked in a dispute with Cape Mentelle over the use of Wallcliffe on labels. Cape Mentelle has claimed trademark rights on the term.

The decision on whether winemakers can use Wallcliffe in their wine marketing is now under consideration by Cape Mentelle’s general manager Rob Mann.

‘We already own three Wallcliffe trademarks: Wallcliffe Winery, Wallcliffe Vineyard and Wallcliffe Estate,’ he said. ‘We have over 40 years’ association with the term Wallcliffe and a longstanding Wallcliffe branded wine in the market. It is an important part of the Cape Mentelle business and we need time to consider the next step.’

Flametree’s general manager, Cliff Royle, said, ‘Cape Mentelle does not own Wallcliffe and its application to trademark the name is in revocation status. I only hope the voice of our Association members to retain Wallcliffe as a sub-regional name will be heard by LVMH.’

One of Margaret River’s founders, Vanya Cullen of Cullen Wines, said it was important to protect Wallcliffe’s historical significance to the region.

‘We can’t rewrite history. There is an emotional attachment to Wallcliffe and this dates back to 1865 when our region was founded. The understanding of the land in the wine is the most exciting part of Margaret River wine and the deeper understanding comes from sub-regional and single site evolution.’

Written by Danielle Costley in Margaret River

Margaret River winemakers are to hold an emergency meeting in response to threatened legal action against Flametree Wines by LVMH-owned Cape Mentelle over use of the Wallcliffe name on wine labels.

Cape Mentelle’s Wallcliffe vineyard

Several winemakers in the Western Australian region are concerned about the impacts of potential legal action. Wallcliffe has been mapped as a sub-region in Margaret River, but is not yet legally recognised as such.

Cape Mentelle, which is owned by French billionaire Bernard Arnault’s LVMH group, has a trademark application pending on Wallcliffe as a standalone name, and its lawyers have asked Flametree Wines to stop using the term.

Flametree general manager Cliff Royle said Dr John Gladstones’ sub-regional map of Margaret River, completed in 1999, gave local producers a precedent to use Wallcliffe on its labels when referring to the source of the fruit for its wines.

‘We have identified the sub-regional origin of our fruit and have not intended to infringe on what Cape Mentelle considers is its intellectual property. Cape Mentelle believes that Wallcliffe is a brand, but it is a geographical place and a name that has been in general use since the 1800s.’

But, Cape Mentelle general manager Rob Mann said that further definition of boundaries and sub-regional titles is required.

‘We have no agreed boundaries, names or registered Geographical Indicators for sub-regions within Margaret River and any reference to them is not formally recognised or controlled.

In 1999, Cape Mentelle successfully trademarked Wallcliffe Winery, Wallcliffe Vineyard and Wallcliffe Estate.

‘A couple of wineries have used the term Wallcliffe prominently on the front label of their wines and this is what we object to as infringing on our established brand and trademark. We have been labelling wines as Wallcliffe from the 1999 vintage and are simply protecting our brand,’ Mann said.

Written by Danielle Costley

Winemakers in Western Australia's Margaret River region are becoming increasingly confident that 2014 will be one of their best vintages yet for white wines.

Harvest time at Voyager Estate in Margaret River. Image Credit: Alex Miller / Voyager Estate

Most white grapes have been picked and optimism is high, despite Margaret River experiencing the wettest winter on record last year.

Juniper Estate winemaker Mark Messenger said a mild summer with cool nights meant grapes held their acids, which should make for a finer style of Chardonnay.

‘The whites are looking fantastic with ripe flavours, low sugar levels and good natural acidity. This is undoubtedly one of the better vintages we have seen in the past five years and surpasses our excellent 2010 vintage,’ he told decanter.com.

Voyager Estate winemaker Steve James said, ‘I have never been more thrilled by the quality of fruit than what we are seeing this year. The flavour development and concentration at such low sugar levels has us all excited. It will be one of the strongest white wine vintages yet.’

That said, spring storms have reduced Chardonnay yields by up to 40% at some vineyards.

Clive Otto, winemaker at Fraser Gallop, said buds were at a particularly delicate stage when the wild weather arrived.

‘In contrast, Semillon yields are up by 20% and the fruit is showing a wonderful natural acidity,’ he said. ‘As the early sea breezes have kept the vineyards cool, I expect our reds will also be outstanding.’

In other parts of Australia, there are some concerns about what a severe summer heatwave may mean for the 2014 harvest.

Early expectations are for a slightly smaller crop, especially in more temperate regions like southeastern Australia, analysts at Rabobank said in a recent report.

Written by Danielle Costley in Margaret River