Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, sits in the southern Aegean sea and forms a cultural and geographical bridge between Europe, Asia and Africa.

Its landscape ranges from rugged mountain ranges and high plateaus to fertile plains and a dramatically indented coastline, producing varied meso- and microclimates that suit a wide array of crops – grapes among them.

Wine has been integral to Cretan life for millennia, and the island’s vineyards, monasteries and ancient palaces testify to a continuous vinous tradition.

The history of winemaking on Crete reaches back to the Bronze Age. The Minoan palaces – built roughly 3,500 years ago at sites such as Knossos and Phaistos – contain remains interpreted as evidence of large-scale wine production and storage.

Byzantine churches and monasteries preserved viticultural knowledge during the medieval period, while Venetian rule during the 13th-17th centuries opened Cretan wines to wider Mediterranean trade.

In the 14th and 15th centuries, in particular, Venetian merchants helped spread the fame and demand for Cretan wines across Europe.

At the same time, the island’s relative geographical isolation fostered the development and preservation of local grape varieties found little elsewhere.

A deep well of varieties

Crete’s terroir is highly varied: a complex mix of limestone and schist soils; hot, dry summers tempered by sea breezes; and cooler mountain sites that maintain acidity and aromatic complexity.

Elevation – from coastal vineyards to those planted above 500m-800m – combined with the diverse soils, creates distinct expressions even over short distances.

This diversity underpins the island’s modern renaissance in quality winemaking. Some key indigenous grape varieties define Cretan wine.

Whites include Vidiano, increasingly celebrated for its citrus and stone fruit aromatics, and textured palate; Vilana, traditionally planted across the island and producing light, fresh wines.

Thrapsathiri, which shows great promise – I would love to see more examples from this variety.

Dafni, quintessentially Greek, herbal and aromatic like the Cretan shrubland and well suited to dry whites; and Plytó, rarer but capable of producing fine wines with a much more subtle character.

Among the reds, Kotsifali and Mandilaria (Mandilari) were for years the backbone of many blends. Kotsifali brings soft fruit and warmth, Mandilaria structure and tannin.

Liatiko, an ancient variety, yields spicy, medium-bodied reds and historically produced sweet wines.

Muscat of Spina and Malvasia di Candia, once Crete’s most popular ambassadors, are coming back to the fore, bringing a scented bouquet to both sweet and dry wines, while the rare red Romeiko, traditionally associated with the alcoholic, Sherry-like Marouvas wine, is another variety that deserves more attention.

Modern renaissance

Crete’s wine styles range from crisp, aromatic dry whites and fuller-bodied, textured whites to light- and medium-bodied reds and fruity rosés.

The sweet wines have a storied past – Venetians prized Cretan sweet and fortified styles; traces of those traditions survive in modern dessert and late harvest bottlings.

Increasingly, winemakers focus on single-varietal expressions, low-intervention techniques and vineyard-driven wines.

Crete

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Eleftherios Hanialidis MS is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Eleftherios Hanialidis MS

Eleftherios Hanialidis began his career in the hospitality industry in 2001 and has since worked extensively as a head sommelier, as well as a consultant for restaurants, wine bars, and wine retail stores. In August 2023, he achieved the distinction of becoming the first Greek Master Sommelier, having previously earned the A.S.I. Diploma (Gold Pin) in 2018.

Competing for the first time in 2017, he secured 3rd place in the Best Sommelier of Greece competition and was honored with the award for Best First Appearing Sommelier of Greece. In 2020, he won the prestigious title of Best Sommelier of Greece.

Eleftherios is a columnist for Oinoxoos magazine of Kathimerini newspaper and an instructor at Genius in Gastronomy.

Throughout his career, he has served as a judge for several esteemed wine competitions and continuously expands his expertise in wine, sake, spirits, and beer. He joined the DWWA judging panel in 2024.

See more of Elegtherios’ work on his website and follow him on Instagram.

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Matthew Horsley is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Matthew Horsley

Matthew Horsley is a buyer at The Wine Society, having worked for them for over 11 years.

After graduating university with a degree in Philosophy, Theology and Religious Studies, Matthew joined The Wine Society as a Christmas temp before joining the Tastings and Events Team where he spent three and a half years. He joined the Buying Department in 2017 and now buys the wines of England, South Africa, Greece and Hungary for The Society.

He passed his WSET Diploma in 2016 and is now a Master of Wine Stage 3 student.

Matthew was a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards for the first time in 2021.

Outside of work, he is often found walking his cocker spaniel, Bilbo, to the pub and back.

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Andres Ituarte is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Andres Ituarte

Born and raised in British Columbia, Canada, Andres Ituarte has been working in the food and beverage industry since he was 19.

Originally starting out in the kitchen, he soon realised that wine was his true vocation. After googling ‘sommelier’, and finding out that there was a job where you could get paid to drink wine, he immediately signed up for wine classes through the International Sommelier Guild.

Since then, Ituarte has worked in almost every facet of the wine world. In 2009, he became a certified sommelier and just 1 year later he moved to London to “make it on the big stage”. Ituarte worked as head sommelier at Coq d’Argent in the City of London and then moved to be being group head sommelier for Tamarind Collection. Now he is head sommelier at the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair.

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Lenka Sedlackova MW is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Lenka Sedlackova MW

Lenka Sedlackova MW was born and raised in the Czech Republic but her love of languages took her to Germany and subsequently the UK, where she lives today.

Lenka’s interest in wine started over a decade ago at a wine tasting organised by London wine merchant Theatre of Wine, which resulted in a job. She has managed agencies for UK’s oldest wine merchant, Berry Bros & Rudd.

Today, Lenka is head of brand management at Bancroft Wines.

In her spare time, she writes for the Wine Monkeys blog, lectures about wine and judges at international wine competitions.

Lenka was first a DWWA judge in 2017.

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Emanuel Pesqueira is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Emanuel Pesqueira

Emanuel Pesqueira, often regarded as “the perfect host” from an early age, has built a 20-year career mastering luxury hospitality. His journey spans roles such as head chef, head sommelier, and group head of wine, working with esteemed establishments like Crystal Cruises, Red Carnation Hotel Group, 67 Pall Mall Club, and Gordon Ramsay Restaurants.

As the founder of Pesqueira Global Luxury Hospitality Consulting & Management, Emanuel specializes in crafting world-class experiences for luxury hotels, private yachts, and exclusive properties. His expertise includes private wine tastings, underwater wine aging, bespoke wine-pairing dinners, and strategic wine and spirits sales development.

With a passion for wine and gastronomy shaped by travels to over 3,500 cities, Emanuel brings a unique perspective to curating unforgettable guest experiences. His mission is to elevate hospitality into an art form, ensuring every detail reflects sophistication and personalized care.

Emanuel joined DWWA for the first time as a judge in 2019.

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Elvis Ziakos is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Elvis Ziakos

Elvis Ziakos has been a sommelier at Myrtos by Asimakis in South Kensington since May 2025. He was previously the head of wine at Mark’s Club in Mayfair.

Starting his career in his native Greece, Ziakos completed sommelier studies at the Le Monde Institute in Athens and worked as head sommelier at Kohylia restaurant at the Grand Resort Lagonissi from 2002 to 2007.

He then spent five years working at the Michelin-starred Spondi restaurant as their head sommelier, before moving to London in 2012 to join the team at Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. Since then, he has worked at several restaurants in London, including six years at The Greenhouse restaurant, ending up as their head sommelier. He was most recently the head sommelier at The Beaumont Hotel.

Ziakos has won many awards as a sommelier, including representing Greece at the Best Sommelier of the World competition in 2007.

Ziakos was first a DWWA judge in 2014.

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What is it about a really big book that feels so luxurious? Its impracticality? Immovability? The sheer weight in your hands? Whatever it is, Assouline’s Wine & Travel series is like diving into a five-star hotel’s king-size bed graced with high-thread-count sheets and goose-down bedding, safe in the knowledge that there’s a freestanding bathtub with suitably indulgent bath salts and oils on hand for when you emerge – a fluffy robe and slippers, too, of course.

Mediterranean Islands (£105 Assouline, July 2025), which joins the France, Italy and (also new) United States of America books (all £100), is so delicious-looking – a cloth-bound hardback in a rich cornflower yellow, with gold foil and bold black block print – that you almost don’t want to open it. Yet it invites you, so alluringly, to discover ‘the sunlit soul of the Mediterranean terroir’. The end-papers are covered with wine labels, further enticing you to burrow within.

It’s the epitome of a coffee-table book: high GSM, satin finish and packed with imagery. It’s intended as pure escapism, but I can’t see it hitting home with any true wine or travel enthusiast. Although it’s just shy of 300 pages, I’d be surprised if the total word count matched an issue of Decanter – with brief introductions to each of the island regions covered, skimming over any of the depth that makes each so fascinating. The copy is even double-spaced – almost as if they didn’t have enough to fill the pages.

Author Enrico Bernardo is a sommelier by trade and clearly someone who loves wine – as shines through in his evocative turns of phrase (Marco de Bartoli’s Vecchio Samperi, for example, is described as ‘brazen, almost arrogant’) – but he isn’t given the space to share his knowledge.

Even if you were to look at this as a collection of photography, you’d be disappointed – some images are beautiful, but many are generic stock – think oversaturated sunsets and tourist snaps better suited to a Lonely Planet travel guide, making for an inconsistent feel. Combine this with the script font used for pullquotes (not just naff, it’s hard to read) and you’ve suddenly got something that feels reminiscent of a school project, rather than the plush publication this is meant to be.

There’s no practical advice on visiting the regions or wineries mentioned, no tips on where to eat, drink or stay, and no maps to guide you through more intricate regions (in fact, you’ll find some rather misleading illustrated pseudo-maps in places). There is at least a compendium of wineries at the back – but even that is just a list, with no indication on the style, size or quality.

If you’re looking for a weighty tome to match the colour scheme of your new conservatory, then this book is for you. But, if you want to learn more about the Mediterranean islands and their wines, you’ll find plenty of better sources elsewhere.

The rule of three

The team behind The Classic Wine Library has been busy, with a flurry of new releases: an updated edition of Raymond Blake’s Côte d’Or (May 2025), The Wines of Central and Southern Spain by Decanter Contributing Editor Sarah Jane Evans MW (June 2025) and – perhaps most intriguingly – The Wines of Brazil by Tufi Neder Meyer (May 2025). All published by Académie du Vin Library and priced £35.

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Terry Kandylis is the Regional Chair for Greece, Cyprus & Malta at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA)

Terry Kandylis

Terry Kandylis was the UK Sommelier of the Year in 2016. He studied Physics in the University of Athens while working for some of the best restaurants in Greece and became more involved in the hospitality industry after falling in love with wine.

He completed the first 3 levels of WSET, under the guidance of the only MW in Greece. After moving to the UK, he began working for ‘The Fat Duck’. Terry completed the WSET Diploma and also passed the advanced level of the Court of Master Sommeliers exam and is currently preparing for his MS Diploma exams.

Kandylis then left The Fat Duck and accepted a role at The Ledbury where he became the Assistant Head Sommelier. After that, he joined the prestigious 67 Pall Mall private members club as their Head Sommelier. Currently he is working as the Group Head Sommelier at the Noble Rot Restaurant & Wine Bar.

Terry earned the title of the Best Sommelier in Greece in 2015 and represented Greece in the European Final in Vienna in 2017, where he managed to go through to the semi-finals. Terry joined the DWWA Regional Chair team in 2023.

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Greece’s native grape varieties burst onto the wine scene in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Assyrtiko and Xinomavro, like Achilles and Hector, are the heroes that dominate this vinous drama, but the cast of characters is much longer.

From the foothills of Thessaly to the volcanic Aegean, Crete’s limestone slopes and the airy plateaus of the Peloponnese, it is estimated that there are currently around 200 significant native varieties, and there are dozens, possibly hundreds, more waiting to be identified across the country.

Scroll down for Jason’s pick of 12 wines made from indigenous Greek grapes

1. Malagousia

It began with Malagousia, which arrived at Domaine Porto Carras in Macedonia thanks to Professor Vassilis Logothetis of the University of Thessaloniki, who rescued and cultivated it as part of an experimental plot in the 1970s.

Evangelos Gerovassiliou, then winemaker at Carras, tasted it and realised it could be more than a blending variety. He propagated it and vinified it as a varietal wine at Carras before establishing his own eponymous winery, which is now famous for benchmark examples.

Peachy, spicy and herbal, Malagousia quickly spread across Greece, and today remains one of the top Greek varieties – excellent on its own, or blended with other varieties such as Assyrtiko, and aged in steel or oak.

Malagousia extended the horizons of winemaking. Suddenly, Greek winemakers were encouraged to look in their own vineyards, seeking the next indigenous hero, rather than planting Merlot or Chardonnay.

2. Moschofilero

Moschofilero, an aromatic speciality of the Mantinia plateau in the northern Peloponnese, was the next variety to emulate the success of Malagousia.

It is one of Greece’s most joyous grapes with its aromas of lemon zest and roses, and no one understands it better than Leonidas Nassiakos, the former winemaker at Semeli, who founded Novus Winery in 2020 to focus on Moschofilero.

‘Moschofilero changed the mindset of Greek consumers in the early 1990s by being the first wine to be ordered by the name of the variety,’ he recalls. ‘Until then, wines in Greece were white, rosé, red or retsina.’

3. Robola

Another promising variety is Robola, a speciality of Cephalonia in the western Ionian Islands, with a very different character to Moschofilero. Where the latter is perfumed, Robola is stony.

If there’s a delicacy to Moschofilero, there’s a muscularity to Robola. It remains one of the most promising native varieties for top-quality wine and is perhaps the closest Greece has to the understated drive and mineral grip of good Chablis.

4. Savatiano

Back in central Greece, vineyards are dominated by Savatiano. Once of Greece’s most planted white grapes for the production of cheap taverna wine and retsina, Savatiano has been tarred – or should we say resinated – by association.

It was also popular because it withstood colossal yields of around 250hl/ha. Under such conditions, it unsurprisingly gained a reputation for neutrality.

When not worked to exhaustion, it can impress. Producers like Papagiannakos, Akriotou and Mylonas in Attica have demonstrated its potential to make quality wines in a range of styles with character and ageing potential.

Stamatis Mylonas, an early believer whose Savatiano took home a DWWA Gold medal in 2014, is enthusiastic about the future.

‘Despite its enormous winemaking history, Savatiano is just starting to draw the attention of the wine world as the next big Greek variety,’ he says.

‘I believe there’s still much more to come, and I’m pleased to see more and more excellent wines being made.’

5. Agiorgitiko

Greece’s most planted red variety, the tongue-twisting Agiorgitiko (ah-yor-YEE-tee-ko), is far easier to enjoy than it is to say.

A speciality of high-altitude Nemea, a PDO designation in the Peloponnese to look out for, its vibrantly fruity profile, deep colour and velvety tannins make it a more immediately appealing red for most wine drinkers than the more austere Xinomavro from appellations like Naoussa in Macedonia.

In style, Nemea (Agiorgitiko) is to Naoussa (Xinomavro) what Bolgheri is to Barolo, or Bordeaux is to Burgundy.

Agiorgitiko comes in a range of styles, from early-drinking wines that can be chilled to more age-worthy and intense bottlings reminiscent of St Emilion or top Argentine Malbec.

Pioneers such as Papaioannou, Skouras and Gaia continue to push the boundaries of what this hugely promising variety can offer.

Limniona and Limnio

Then there’s Limniona, another variety with huge quality potential but much more limited plantings. Revived in 2000 by Zafeirakis and a flagship future red variety for Thessaly, it is hard to generalise about it because volumes are small, but the quality potential has been unquestionable.

The story continues on the islands. Limnio, not to be confused with Limniona, is an ancient grape and the oldest referenced variety in the world, having been mentioned by Aristotle and Hesiod (who called it ‘Lemnia’).

It comes from the island of Limnos, where producers like Lefteris Anagnostou of Ekho (ēkhô) are determined to bring it to wider attention, but today this variety occupies only 10% of the island’s vineyards and finds greater success in northern Greece.

On the island of Paros, Monemvasia (white) and Mandilaria (red) are reasserting their traditional status, where they are co-fermented to produce supple, spicy red wines with some of the silkiness of wines such as Emmanuel Reynaud’s Château Rayas and Château des Tours.

Stirrings on Crete

Then there’s Crete, Greece’s largest island and ideally suited to quality viticulture. Three local men, all called Nikos, have had a decisive influence on the swing towards native varieties here.

Nikos Douloufakis pioneered Vidiano, Crete’s most promising white grape. ‘Think of a Mediterranean white with the elegance of Viognier and the structure of Assyrtiko,’ he says.

‘It’s dry, full of peach and citrus fruit aromas, with a hint of salinity and a smooth, long finish.’ No one does it better.

Another Nikos – Karavitakis – is convinced that Kotsifali, a grape traditionally used only in blends, has the potential to make outstanding varietal wines.

‘When made well, it has a noble character often found in top-class wines,’ he says, comparing it to Burgundy and top Garnacha from Spain. ‘The whole region needs to understand the beauty and power of Kotsifali.’

Finally, Nikos Lyrarakis resurrected the almost extinct Dafni variety, which now forms the basis of one of Crete’s most distinctive single-vineyard wines.

The hard work to recuperate the indigenous heritage of Greece’s vineyards in the last 30 years continues to bear fruit.

‘We are very lucky to have so many native varieties across Greece,’ Lefteris Anagnostou says. ‘It’s a privilege to work with them. But there is still much work required to discover more of this heritage and to promote it.’

Not all of these varieties will match the impact of Assyrtiko or Xinomavro, but some may surpass them in time.

For those who’ve already discovered how good contemporary Greek wine can be, that’s an exciting thought – and a compelling reason to continue to explore its native heroes.

12 Indigenous Greek grapes to try

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Renowned as a nectar of the Gods, Commandaria claims the status of the oldest wine still in production, according to Guinness World Records.

Furthermore, this sweet dessert wine, first perfected by the Knights of St John in 1192, is only made in 14 select Cypriot villages high in the Troodos Mountains, which are nicknamed the ‘green heart of Cyprus’.

Last year marked the wine’s 800th anniversary – it allegedly won the world’s first-ever wine competition, the ‘Battle of the Wines’, held by the French King Philip Augustus in 1224 and recorded by French poet Henri d’Andeli.

So what better way to celebrate than by taking a trip back in time to discover the Commandaria Wine Route? Harvest runs from blistering late July to the more comfortable October, but there are warm and welcoming wineries to explore year round. Meanwhile this year’s Limassol Wine Festival, which runs from 27 September to 5 October, provides nine whole days to ‘drink wine to feel alive’, so goes its motto.

Friday

Evening

A direct flight from London to Paphos takes approximately four and a half hours. At the airport you can collect your hire car and, as the roads are relatively quiet and they drive on the left, just like in the UK, it’s much less daunting to get behind the wheel.

In around 20 minutes, arrive at adult-only Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel, where the spacious executive suites with lounge areas, balconies and sea views also have private pools, jacuzzis and beach cabanas. Enjoy dinner at one of two à la carte restaurants (pre-booking required), preferably beachfront Kymata, ideal for fresh seafood, an extensive wine list and spectacular sunsets.

Before arrival, request a tasting experience with friendly and knowledgeable head barman, George, for an introduction to Commandaria. During the tasting, he’ll enthusiastically share the background to the wine – covering the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) authentication, the indigenous Mavro (red) and Xynisteri (white) grapes used to make it, and how these grapes are picked late in the season and dried in the sun for richer flavours.

Saturday

Morning

There’s nothing like waking up to the sound of the sea. At the hotel’s poolside Estia buffet restaurant, find local Cypriot delicacies amongst an international array of breakfast choices. If you’re not the designated driver, you can even enjoy a glass of fizz with your juice or coffee.

The earlier the better for the first nearby stop, the awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Kato Pafos Archaelogical Park for both the Pafos (Pathos) Mosaics and Tombs of the Kings, where both crowds and unbearable heat build throughout the day.

Then head to the cooler Commandaria region, less than an hour’s drive away, where steep, sun-kissed slopes draped in pines and vineyards create a rugged yet beautiful landscape, with terraces neatly carved into the hillsides.

While walk-ins are often welcome, I suggest calling or emailing ahead to reserve visits at the following cellars, all of which provide engaging wine-tasting tours in English.

On the road to Doros village, turn right just before the old church to discover family-run Karseras Winery (Thursday–Saturday, 10am–4pm). Established in 1998, the winery specialises exclusively in Commandaria, with bottles available from the affordable Family Edition (€15) to the special 20th Anniversary Edition (€150).

Afternoon

Just 12 miles to the west lies the pretty Omodos, where on the quaint, cobbled village square you’ll find recommended lunch stop Gerolomo Vini Bar Café. Think hummus, halloumi, traditional arkatena bread and wine-marinated sausages – followed up by a browse through the bottle shop for souvenirs.

Continue to Agios Mamas, around 10 miles away, to discover family-run gem Revecca Winery and Museum, where the organic, small-scale winemakers follow traditions stretching back millennia. In a temperate Mediterranean climate at an altitude of 600–800m grapes are harvested by hand, sun-dried, basket-pressed, and aged for at least two years in old European oak. Learn about this unique winemaking heritage on a guided tour of Revecca’s old family home, which includes a tasting of three current releases.

Seven miles to the north in Pelendri, Tsiakkas Winery (closed on Sundays) is worth visiting for the views of Troodos from the tasting tower or outdoor terrace (pictured above) alone. The roots of some of Europe’s highest-altitude vines were planted here in the 1990s by then newlyweds Kostas and Marina Tsiakkas.

Now, both the family and the vineyards have expanded, with the second generation helping to produce 200,000 bottles of wine per year – many of them award-winning revivals of neglected varieties like Yiannoudi and Promara. One of the signature wines, Commandaria, is unforgettable, as is another true spirit of Cyprus: Zivania. Visitors can enjoy several guided tours, as well as events ranging from exhibitions and workshops to dinners and dances.

Evening

Return to Omodos and check into local guest house Stou Kir-Yianni, a family-run agritourism business, where making a dinner reservation is also highly recommended. The mouth-watering meze of gourmet Cypriot cuisine includes a never-ending selection of tzatziki, kebabs, stuffed vine leaves and – the pièce de resistance – roast pork and crackling drizzled with a secret family recipe Commandaria sauce. At weekends, the experience is elevated by the soft sounds of live Greek folk music. Vegetarian and vegan menus are also available.

Sunday

Morning

Wander around sleepy Omodos with its colourful craft shops, delis and street-side tavernas. Don’t miss the Timios Stavros Monastery and the medieval wine press ‘Linos tou Charilaou’.

Afternoon

Wine Brunching Sundays (11am-4pm) are legendary at the charismatic, family-owned Ktima Gerolemo Winery, where you can soak up the views and enjoy wine cocktails (for non-drivers) on the al fresco terrace, along with delicious meze dishes made from locally grown produce. The winery offers fun tasting experience in the cellar, where you’ll sip signature offerings like Commandaria, of course, as well as aged pomace brandy Zivania, served with olives and cheese.

Before returning to the airport, stop off at ancient amphitheatre Kourion and the House of Eustolios or ultimate beauty spot Aphrodite’s Rock, ‘Petra tou Romiou’, renowned as the birthplace of the Goddess of Love.

What does Commandaria taste like?

Commandaria is best sipped slightly chilled, around 12-16ºC, as a perfect accompaniment to desserts and cheeses. In Cyprus, it’s often served with fresh fruit and traditional sweets, such as pastelaki (nut brittle with sesame seeds and carob syrup); soutzoukos (a sausage-shaped sweet, made of grape juice with almonds or walnuts); or traditional baked treats, such as baklava, galaktoboureko or anari bourekia. Grilled halloumi cheese, drizzled with honey and fig jam also pairs beautifully as do dark chocolate or rich, chocolate-flavoured desserts.

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Assyrtiko is in crisis. The popularity of this diamond-pure Greek white grape from the burnished pumice of Santorini, has risen as fast and bright as a meteorite in reverse.

But the disastrously meagre 2024 harvest described by Stellios Boutaris of Sigalas as barely ‘two buckets of grapes’, presents a shortage to burgeoning fans of this cheerleading local variety.

Thanks to above average temperatures and a lack of the night-time dew compounded by a third consecutive year of lower-than-average rainfall on Santorini, the dip in production is biting.

Scroll down for Olly’s pick of Greek white wines that aren’t Assyrtiko

Looking beyond the obvious

At this year’s Oenorama wine fair in Athens almost every winemaker spoke with enthusiasm for their passion for grapes beyond Assyrtiko.

For too long, they say, we’ve all been beguiled by the beauty of Assyrtiko and with hardly any stock around, even regular buyers of this star from Santorini are facing waiting lists and allocations.

Back from the brink

The first grape on everyone’s lips for something with widespread appeal is Malagousia.

Saved from extinction just a few short decades ago by Evangelos Gerovassiliou, Malagousia is a white grape that’s far more than just a scented crowd-pleaser.

Those new to wine loves its bright fruity appeal, Greece’s answer to Albariño, you might say.

While devoted connoisseurs, are gripped by its ability to thrill with the precision of a minerally matrix.

In its more serious iterations, I think of it as a steel nectarine glowing beneath a halo of frozen jasmine, such as the wine of Maria Dimitriadis who grows very fine Malagousia on the slopes of Mount Olympus under her Navitas label.

Attic contender

For volume to fill the gap left by Assyrtiko, the former workhorse grape behind retsina – Savatiano – has serious potential.

Rather like Chenin Blanc it’s capable of youthful vim as well as extended ageing and with lots of old vine heritage, quality across Attica in particular is abundant.

With producers like Papagiannakos producing beautiful single vineyard examples such as the Vientzi from vines more than 60 years old in limestone soil, this grape shows encouraging potential to produce wines of fruity delight balanced with textural richness.

An island duo

For blade-fresh wines with similar mineral-pure saltiness to Assyrtiko from Santorini, Thrapsathiri from Crete or Xynisteri from Cyprus are both interesting contenders.

Thrapsathiri has a subtle tropical edge with fresh herby spice to it.

Meanwhile, Xynisteri from Cyprus can deliver compelling citrus tension especially from the high-altitude vineyards of Cyprus such as Kyperounda, (some of which reach 1,400 metres, among the highest in Europe).

Sites such as these combined with the drought resistance and naturally fresh acidity of so many Greek white grape varieties offer great hope in the face of the climate emergency.

Heady charms

For white wines with bold character with scented freshness, the fragrant headiness of Moschofilero is already a hit on the UK high street in stores such as Marks & Spencer where their Found bottling is blended with lemony Roditis.

With rose petal and heady lemon blossom among its captivating aromatic charms, Moschofilero is about as enticing as summer white wines can get.

Yet in the hands of specialists Troupis in their ‘TOMH’ Mantinia 2023 (12.5%)’ it’s focused into a wine of etched definition with lime-scented stone fruit and irresistibly crisp élan.

Its near-relative Mavrofilero has even more citrus verve which is doubtless capable of luring fans of top-quality Sauvignon Blanc towards local Greek grapes.

Quincy allure

But in my view, the rarer Kydonitsa grape (meaning ‘little quince’) is a variety which manages to balance seriousness with delightfully discreet aromatic allure.

Kydonitsa has a sense of liveliness (as the name suggests, there is a certain similarity to quince), with a charming textural crunch and a restrained aromatic profile somewhere between chamomile and pear.

Another emerging star in the firmament of Greek white wine beyond Assyrtiko is Vidiano.

Vidiano is a grape that comes from Crete, thought to originate from the prefecture of Rethymno and tends towards peachiness lifted with herby freshness.

While it’s never the zippiest of all Greek grape varieties, I’ve yet to taste a soft example and from cooler vineyards the wines balance nicely between widespread appeal and mesmeric finesse.

Paired with fish, shellfish and light summer salads, it’s absolutely splendid.

Rare jewels

However, for the captivating pristine power of volcanic Assyrtiko, the answer lies in some of the seriously rare varieties that are tucked away on other sun-drenched islands.

The highly rare grape of Makripodia from Zakynthos is one to watch with a saline streak to appeal to Assyrtiko fans or the red grape Romeiko planted across Crete which produces moreish white wines with dynamic umami and sea-spray that are wonderful matched with mezze.

But the real hope for similar calibre to Assyrtiko is Potamisi.

Found in the Cyclades, the best examples have a similar mineral power to Assyrtiko with the tension and invigoration of grand cru Chablis.

For a white wine of impressive concentration that can be equally at home with a Greek salad, shellfish, sushi or a lemon roast chicken, Potamisi has the power to take the world by storm.

Delicious Greek white wines that aren’t Assyrtiko:

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Decanter’s expert writers and contributors awarded 95-points or more to almost 3,000 wines in the 12 months to October 2024.

While they have all appeared in the pages of Decanter magazine and online on Decanter Premium and in our decanter.com database, there were too many to reproduce here for a seasonal wrap-up.

So, in a somewhat unfair and very challenging task, we asked each of our Regional Editors to select just five wines from each of their key areas of expertise to highlight the bounty and diversity on offer across the world wine map.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the rest of the world Wines of the Year 2024

From Baden, the Bernhard Huber winery was behind two Outstanding Chardonnays (95 and 96-points) in our German whites beyond Riesling panel tasting (October 2024 issue), before scoring 98-points for its Schlossberg Chardonnay 2022 in the Grosses Gewächs 2024-release tasting on Decanter Premium (10 October 2024) – a true champion in the alternative German white category.

Weingut Keller of Rheinhessen, on the other hand, achieved a near-perfect score with its Morstein Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) 2022. This is undoubtedly a prime example from one of Germany’s finest red wine vintages.

As Caro Maurer MW put it: ‘It reminds me of a Gevrey-Chambertin – the wine is simply world-class.’

From the foothills of Mount Fuji in Japan, Grace Wine’s Misawa Vineyard Koshu was the top find of my first visit to the Yamanashi wine region. Its delicate nature and outstanding concentration are a testament to the quality potential of the nation’s signature white grape.

Back in England, Dermot Sugrue’s Zodo (zero-dosage) non-vintage sparkling, from the South Downs, is a brilliant showcase of English fizz at its peak – striking a fine balance between its signature acidic backbone and an elegant textural complexity, realised through expert vineyard and winery management.

Finally, Klearhos Kanellakis highlighted an exceptional vinsanto in his report on the best Assyrtiko wines from Greece.

Crafted by long-established family winery Argyros, using primarily Assyrtiko from 200-year-old vines rooted in volcanic soils on Santorini, this luscious yet balanced 2015 surely has many decades ahead of it.

Quick links:

See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Bordeaux & Burgundy | Champagne, Rhône and regional France | Italy | Spain & Portugal | The US | South America | Australia, New Zealand & South Africa

Wines of the Year 2024: Rest of the World

Wines are listed white then red, in score order

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Melania Battiston is a judge at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).

Melania Battiston

Melania Battiston comes from a small town in Lombardy, Italy. She is currently assistant food & beverage manager at the luxury hotel brand Aman Resort, where she has been working in Greece and Thailand. Previously in UK, she was head sommelier and wine buyer at Medlar restaurant in Chelsea, London.

Eight years ago, she moved to the UK to study Marketing at the University of Bath. After meeting Clement Robert at 28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen, however, she decided to start a career in the wine industry instead.

Already an advanced sommelier at the Court of Master Sommelier at the age of 24, Melania’s aim is to become the first and youngest Italian female master sommelier, perhaps MW in the future. Moreover, she graduated in Coaching and Positive Psychology at the University of Cambridge. She runs her own consulting and coaching company for hospitality and brands, MelCnC.

Melania is a Champagne lover, an Italian wine aficionado, and she also has a sweet spot for Greece, New Zealand, and Austria.

Follow Melania on Instagram.

See more judges for DWWA 2026.

Assyrtiko, a robust and versatile grape, has firmly established itself as a symbol of Greek viticulture and has recently become one of the most talked-about varieties in white wine, drawing comparisons to Hungary’s esteemed Furmint.

With its origins on the Aegean island of Santorini, the cultivation of Assyrtiko has spread across Greece, and the exciting wines that have resulted demonstrate the grape’s adaptability to different climates and terroirs.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 thrilling Greek Assyrtiko

Within Greece, the expression of Assyrtiko varies significantly between the mainland and its island of origin. Mainland vineyards typically produce a fruitier, less mineral-intense style than those found on Santorini.

It’s here that Assyrtiko finds its most pronounced expression, the island’s volcanic soils enriching the grape with a distinctive smoky minerality, salinity and depth.

The old, ungrafted vines found in the island’s vineyards are particularly noteworthy, typically trained in a characteristic basket-shaped system known as kouloura to protect them from harsh winds and intense sun.

Old vines, new ideas

On Santorini, innovative winemaking techniques are being used to enhance the natural qualities of Assyrtiko. Extended ageing on the lees adds richness and complexity, resulting in wines with greater body and a creamy texture.

The use of wild yeasts for fermentation introduces unique, indigenous flavours and aromas, further connecting the wines to their specific locale. Microvinification of selected parcels from centenarian vines allows winemakers to explore the full potential of these ancient vineyards, often producing exceptionally concentrated and characterful wines.

Additionally, some winemakers are experimenting with amphorae, which provide a distinctive oxidative environment that influences the wines’ texture and flavour.

Food pairing par excellence

Assyrtiko’s high acidity and robust structure give it exceptional ageability, with the potential to develop complex flavours over time. And this grape is not only confined to producing dry white wines but is also used to create sparkling, sweet and even orange wines, highlighting its wide-ranging potential.

That high acidity and the strong minerality also make Assyrtiko an excellent partner for a wide variety of dishes. Wines made from the grape pair splendidly with raw seafood, enhancing the delicate flavours of oysters and sushi, while their citrussy profile complements dishes such as steamed mussels with lemongrass.

Assyrtiko’s affinity for saffron-infused recipes, such as paella or rich stews, further demonstrates its versatility when it comes to food pairings.

More than just a grape, Assyrtiko is a reflection of Greece’s winemaking heritage and a symbol of its potential for future innovation. As it continues to gain international recognition, Assyrtiko represents not only the excellence of Greek wine but also the dynamic diversity of global white wine trends.

The finest of Greek Assyrtiko to seek out:

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After two weeks of judging in London, full results from Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 have been released, revealing a stellar performance from Greece – with a few surprises, too.

Since its inception, DWWA has consolidated its reputation as the largest and most influential wine competition in the world. Wine-watchers eagerly await the results of the awards each year because, as well as highlighting the best wines in the UK (and where to buy them), newsworthy stories and trends inevitably emerge.

This year, one of the most exciting stories is the ascendency of Greek wines. It isn’t going too far to say that, in 2024, Greece really is the word.

The results tally in, Greece laid claim to 296 medals, including two Platinums, 11 Golds and 111 Silvers. The really big story, though, is that a Greek retsina wine won a prestigious Best in Show, one of only 50 awarded this year, and making up just 0.28% of the 18,143 wines evaluated.

Scroll down to discover six top-scoring Greek wines from DWWA 2024

The Retsina revival

The Greece story notches up a gear when you consider that the competition’s ‘Top 50’ wine in question is produced with pine resin: Kechris Tear of the Pine Retsina 2022 (97 points).

DWWA Co-Chair Andrew Jefford said, ‘Eyebrows, we know, will be raised. What on earth is a retsina doing in the DWWA Best in Show selection?

‘In truth, eyebrows were raised every time this wine was tasted in the competition – because no one could quite believe that a resinated wine could be as subtle and as good as this. But subtle and good it is: pale gold in colour, with aromas that seem simply perfumed rather than dominated by resin.’

Retsina, made by adding small amounts of Aleppo pine resin to white (or sometimes rosé) wines during fermentation, has existed for thousands of years. The style most likely arose as a way sealing wine amphorae as they were transported around the Mediterranean. It gave the wine a piney, salty, tang – which people evidently developed a taste for, as the style survived for centuries longer than pure necessity dictated.

Yet, as a style retsina wasn’t often held in high regard, its resinous flavour believed to ‘mask’ poor quality wine. Now, a nascent retsina revival is calling time on that theory – as Tear of the Pine proves.

Jefford also pointed out that this is an unusual retsina. ‘Note that this is an oaked wine, and you’ll find as much soft oak and creamy lees on the nose as you will a resinous twang.’ Then there’s the choice of grape variety: 100 per cent Assyrtiko rather than the more usual Savatiano or Athiri.

Tear of the Pine was first released in 2005, after five years of experimentation. Winemaker Stelios Kechris explains how it’s made: ‘After pre-fermentation maceration and alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels of varying origins and types, selected fresh pine resin extracted from Pinos halepensis is added, followed by ageing for six to seven months on the lees. Finally, we bottle.’

It’s a style he describes as ‘a traditional product produced using innovative and modern practices’. He added, ‘Our aim is to showcase the unique qualities and characteristics of this wine style.’

‘The result,’ concludes Jefford, ‘is a triumph. We commend it to all open-minded readers.’

Assyrtiko rising

Retsina is not the only Greek success story. Wines made from the Assyrtiko grape – particularly those from the tiny, windswept island of Santorini from which this grape originates – won particular plaudits from judges.

Two standouts (Gavalas Winery, Natural Ferment, Santorini 2022 and Tselepos Canava Chrissou Vielles Vignes, Santorini 2021) claimed Platinum, both awarded 97 points.

Additionally, two Santorini wines from Estate Argyros – the lightly oaked Cuvée Evdemon 2020 and stainless-steel vinified Assyrtiko 2022 – were awarded Golds, with 96 and 95 points respectively.

On this Aegean island, grapevines are typically grown low to the ground in nest-like, basket-shaped koulouras, their roots thrusting deep into the volcanic soil in search of moisture during the long, dry summers.

Assyrtiko grown on the island is low-yielding, resulting in wines with concentration and intensity; a characteristic lick of briny-fresh salinity and razor-sharp acidity makes them as food friendly as they are vividly flavoured. It’s little wonder that Santorini Assyrtiko has gained such a following.

Victory is sweet: Vinsanto

Santorini-grown Assyrtiko goes beyond rapier-sharp, ultra-fresh styles.

The legendary dessert wine Vinsanto, lusciously sweet and concentrated, oak-aged and made in tiny amounts on the island, is the polar opposite. It is traditionally made from sun-dried grapes (at least 50% of which must be Assyrtiko) that are pressed, fermented, then aged in oak barrels for at least two years, eventually emerging with an intense sweetness that’s balanced by bracingly fresh acidity.

The Gold-medal winning (96 points) Artemis Karamolegos, Vinsanto, Santorini 2010 combines 85% old-vine Assyrtiko with 15% Aïdani. After ageing for a minimum of 90 months in French oak, its honeyed richness is underscored by hints of coffee and molasses.

These two tiny snapshots – retsina on the rise and the varied faces of Santorini Assyrtiko – are just small parts of the overall picture of what’s happening in Greece, but are emblematic of the increasingly confident winemaking mentality that is taking hold across the mainland and islands.

For wines that can truly surprise and excite in the glass, Greece really is the place to look.

Top-scoring Greek wines of DWWA 2024

Kechris, Tear of the Pine, Retsina 2022

97 Best in Show

Pale gold in colour, with aromas that seem simply perfumed rather than dominated by resin; note, too, that this is an oaked wine, and you’ll find as much soft oak and creamy lees on the nose as you will a resinous twang. On the palate, all those elements come irresistibly together, too. Another point to note is that the variety here is 100 per cent Assyrtico rather than the more usual Savatiano or Athiri, so the patient layering of oak, cream and pine comes atop a pure, upright and vividly acid-balanced wine which would be of no little interest in its own right. The result is a triumph. We commend it to all open-minded readers. Alcohol 13.5%

Gavalas Winery, Natural Ferment, Santorini 2022

97 Platinum

Staggeringly good wine: myriad aromas of orange blossom, lemon balm and stone fruit with evocative inflections of volcanic minerals and seaside salinity. Wonderfully crunchy with an oyster shell texture and vivid citrus acidity. Long and profound. Alc 14%

Tselepos, Canava Chrissou Vieilles Vignes, Santorini 2021

97 Platinum

A benchmark Assyrtiko exuding breath-taking aromas of fresh peach, pear and wild spring flowers which set the tone and intersperse nicely with the underscore of vibrant crushed stone minerals and spine-tingling bite of acidity. Magnificent! Alc 13.5%

Estate Argyros, Cuvée Evdemon, Santorini 2020

96 Gold

Gleaming with white peach, lemon posset and fresh lime blossom with a succulent salty mineral character and vibrant drive of citrus acidity which glides towards the finish line. Alc 15%

Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini 2022

95 Gold

An intoxicating frisson of sea breeze, preserved lemon and floral notes which pervade the linear texture and steely backbone of acidity. Glowing with vibrance and verve. Alc 14%

Artemis Karamolegos, Vinsanto, Santorini 2010

96 Gold

The epitome of concentration encompassing dark raisined fruit, candied mango, frankincense and milk chocolate with an engaging mineral freshness which unfolds towards the end. Absolutely stunning. Alc 10.8%

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It hasn’t always felt especially summery so far this year, but don’t let the cool, grey skies dampen your holiday mood.

This summer is certainly going to be an eventful one in Paris – and France as a whole – with the Olympics, so get ready for a slew of gastronomic happenings around town.

Summer is truly the season of pop-ups, and you’ll find some of the most lavish on the globe in the form of a Baccarat-themed lounge in Monte Carlo and mountaintop private dining in Switzerland.

Even if your plans don’t include island-hopping in Greece or villa stays in Mallorca or Ibiza, you’ll find plenty of other fabulous ways to fête summer – from rosé-filled terraces in London to one-night-only dining experiences at ranches and farms on both sides of the US.

Experience Lilly’s, the ‘world’s most lavish club’, at Formula 1 Races & Polo tournaments around the globe

Lilly’s Club is hosting a new series of pop-ups at top sporting events around the world this summer.

The first of these, held over four evenings at the Fairmont Monte Carlo, coincided with the Monaco Grand Prix.

Partnering with Baccarat in celebration of the artisan crystal creator’s 260th anniversary, artists including Peggy Gou and Travis Scott performed, while butlers served Champagne in crystal coupes.

Renowned bartender Andrey Bolshakov manned the track-view suite, shaking up bespoke, race-themed cocktails like ‘Drive to Survive’; a blend of Baccarat Woodford Reserve, Martini Rossi, Sichuan pepper texture, Campari and distilled Frankincense oil.

Keep an eye out for the lineup of exclusive events – from Formula 1 races to Polo tournaments and beyond – where Lilly’s will continue popping up across the globe for the rest of the year.

Party with Moët in Paris at a gastronomic summer series with Yannick Alléno

Popping up for the summer season, Moët in Paris by Allénos celebrates the splendour of the French savoir-fête, the ‘art of partying well’.

Apéritif (aka Champagne happy hour) starts promptly with a toast at 17:43, a nod to the year Moët & Chandon was founded.

Located within the Beaupassage pedestrian hideaway in Paris’s well-heeled 7th arrondissement, fashion designer and illustrator Charles de Vilmorin is behind the space’s whimsical design – which will run until the first day of harvest in Champagne.

Each week will feature a rotating roster of after-work Champagne tastings, sing-along live piano performances, DJ sets, and decadent weekend brunches.

Expect a seasonally influenced menu à la Michelin-starred chef and Moët & Chandon ambassador Yannick Alléno (think green curry with summer vegetables and sea bream in cherry leaf) paired alongside a selection of Champagne.

Step inside Maison Krug’s new Joseph Winery in Champagne

‘There has been a drop of Ambonnay in every Édition of Krug Grande Cuvée since the foundation of Maison Krug (in 1843),’ says sixth-generation Olivier Krug, which makes the Clos d’Ambonnay an ideal spot for a ‘new’ start.

A seven-year project – the same amount of time an Édition of Krug Grande Cuvée matures in the cellar – the new Joseph winery is what Krug cellar master Julie Cavil has dubbed the ‘Joseph 2.0’.

Spanning 9,500 square metres and comprising eight cellars (which will receive 250 new wines this year) and 330 individual tanks, Joseph is designed to blend harmoniously into the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay with copper-coloured roofs that match the neighbouring homes.

The millstone walls and redesigned garden feel as if the winery blends seamlessly into the vines, offering both natural light and panoramic views from each room.

‘We wanted to preserve the fundamentals we inherited from (founder) Joseph Krug and conduct necessary changes to adapt to our changing environment,’ Cavil told Decanter as we toured the new winery when it debuted in late April.

‘It’s said that when you taste while listening to music, it changes the taste of the wines. Here, we’re in the heart of the vineyard and can taste the wines while looking out at the vines – that creates an additional connection [to the wine].’

Sleep in a safari-style tent during the Field X Overnight event at McArthur Gulch, Colorado

The experiential farm-to-table pop-up known for its destination events held in vineyards and sea caves is launching a new concept during the Outstanding in the Field Summer Tour.

Join guest chef Adam Dulye, of Brewers Association, at Flying Diamond Ranch in Colorado’s McArthur Gulch, for a farm-to-table dinner party with pairings curated by family-owned Californian winery Gros Ventre Cellars.

Take a seat in a wildflower meadow for the farm meal on 20 and 21 July before spending the night in an off-grid, safari-style tent for two, each outfitted with custom furnishings, Earth-friendly natural linens, and skincare products.

After the meal, cosy up by the campfire with a late-night dessert, enjoy the nightcap bar and wake to a farm-fresh breakfast of seasonal fruits and local produce before setting off on a morning walk through the meadow.

Tickets for the dinner cost $385 and an overnight stay is $2,500: book here for 20 July and here for 21 July.

Indulge in rare Penfolds wines during a Collectors’ Experience tasting at Magill Estate in Adelaide

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the first release of Penfolds Bin 707, the benchmark for Australian Cabernet Sauvignon.

To fête the wine and 180 years of Penfolds, the winery has launched an exclusive tasting experience at the brand home, Magill Estate, in Adelaide, Australia.

Through the Collectors’ Experience, you’ll get a deep dive into wines like Penfolds Grange, Yattarna Chardonnay, and the ‘super blend’ 802.B Cabernet Shiraz, plus a bespoke tour of Magill Estate and a food and wine moment at the restaurant.

Tickets from $327.

Join Jancis Robinson MW & top sommelier Raimonds Tomsons for a wine and philosophy retreat in Greece

At Dexamenes, a former-winery in western Greece, the old wine tanks have been converted into design-forward suites. This idyllic seaside spot also plays host to a unique retreat dedicated to two of Greece’s great and lasting legacies.

Inspired by Ancient Greece’s wine-fuelled symposiums, each evening of the six-day Wine and Philosophy: A Euphoric Retreat for the Soul (which will run from 25-30 October) will include philosophy discussions led by Durham University Classics professor Edith Hall.

Guests can also take in the local culture and wine history of the Peloponnese on visits to wineries like Mercouri Estate and Brintzikis Estate before joining retreat leaders – renowned wine critic and author Jancis Robinson MW, and Best Sommelier of the World 2023 Raimonds Tomsons – for wine tasting and pairing workshops.

The retreat starts at $4,832 per person.

Dine at Hakuba, Cheval Blanc Paris’s omakase in collaboration with Michelin-starred chef Takuya Watanabe

Hokkaido-born chef Takuya Watanabe – founder of the first Michelin-starred omakase in Paris – has partnered with Cheval Blanc Paris’s head chef, Arnaud Donckele, and pastry chef Maxime Frédéric for cooking concept Hakuba.

‘Hakuba’, which means ‘white horse’ in Japanese, a nod to Cheval Blanc, is located on the ground floor of the Palace hotel.

Chefs flit between three counters – two in the main dining area, seating eight to nine people, and one tucked away for a private dining experience for six.

Japanese tradition is present in everything from culinary technique to the restaurant’s Japanese forest-inspired design.

This encompasses dark wood such as black walnut, warm tones, and a Tsukubai stone and bamboo fountain at the entrance providing the soothing sound of flowing water.

‘We want this table to be a total immersion into Japanese art and craftsmanship,’ explains Donckele, who has provided his expertise in sauces and adapted ingredients and textures to have a Japanese touch.

‘On the sushi, temaki, and gunkan (hand-shaped, oval sushi) side, Takuya Watanabe embodies rigour and authenticity – he has full creative freedom for remarkable creations with products such as fish, rice, Iio Jozo brewery vinegar and seaweed.’

Dinner omakase menu from $451.

Enjoy high-altitude Michelin cuisine during a mountaintop private dining moment at Hotel 7132 in Vals, Switzerland

After maintaining the second Michelin star at 7132 Silver Restaurant at the namesake Swiss hotel, chef Marcel Koolen is pushing the limits of high-altitude cuisine further than ever before.

Sourcing top-quality local and forest-foraged ingredients, he has created a private dining experience on a secret mountaintop location more than 6,500 feet above sea level.

Blending his passion for outdoor cooking with his appreciation of alpine products, Koolen will present a menu designed around Mother Nature with dishes paired alongside vintages of Champagne Louis Roederer’s Cristal.

Dubbed Beyond the Clouds, the three-night package is available from 1 July (rates start at $17,628) and includes a stay in the Kengo Kuma-designed Penthouse Suite, helicopter transfers within Switzerland, a glacier picnic and a 90-minute private thermal bath experience.

Sip Sir Ridley Scott’s Provençal wines at a summer terrace pop-up at The Laslett in Notting Hill

British filmmaker Sir Ridley Scott (of Gladiator, Blade Runner, House of Gucci) is bringing a taste of Provence to Notting Hill this summer, with a pop-up on the terrace of townhouse hotel The Laslett.

Taking over the sun-drenched Victorian-era terrace, London will get a taste of the Luberon winery, with a dedicated menu of Mas des Infermières’s wines, including the Perle du Mas sparkling rosé, which will make its UK debut.

Sit back and sip Source Blanc alongside smoked salmon and avocado for lunch or Source Rouge with a crispy duck burger or marinated chicken skewers for dinner and allow yourself to be transported to the French south.

Preview the latest Dom Pérignon vintages during a Francis Mallmann-paired meal in the Hamptons

Be among the first to sip Dom Pérignon Vintage 2015 and Plénitude 2 (P2) 2006 before their official release, at Dom Pérignon’s three-night event taking place 19-21 July at a private estate in the Hamptons.

Chef Francis Mallmann will pair cuisine to ‘explore the nuanced depths of these spectacular vintages,’ during the first in a series of chef-driven events that will unfold across the country in cities like New York and Chicago.

‘This experience with chef Mallmann allows us to create a space where we celebrate the balance found in opposing forces, inviting guests to savour the convergence of exceptional culinary and Champagne artistry while surrounded by the stunning ocean backdrop,’ says Dom Pérignon chef de cave Vincent Chaperon.

‘This Dom Pérignon encounter opens the door to a world of endless possibilities, brought to life through the rare prestige of our latest vintages.’

The experience (including roundtrip transportation) starts at $3,000; reservations available here.

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Titled Best Sommelier 2015 in Greece, Sommelier of the Year 2016 in the UK and representing Greece in the European Final in Vienna in 2017, Terry Kandylis is now the Group Head Sommelier at Noble Rot in London.

Growing up in Evia, Greece, Kandylis’ earliest encounters with wine were humble, centred around homemade wine that his family produced with purchased grapes. It wasn’t until his cousin, a sommelier, gave him a glass of quality Greek wine that his curiosity grew.

Working part-time in restaurants whilst studying Physics at the University of Athens, Kandylis experienced a pivotal moment when he served Pouilly-Fuissé instead of Pouilly-Fumé. ‘A classic rookie mistake’ he commented. Guided by his mentor, a restaurateur, he began learning more about different grape varieties, regions and wine styles.

Fast forward, Kandylis has worked at numerous fine-dining establishments including The Fat Duck, The Ledbury and private members club 67 Pall Mall before holding the position of Group Wine Director at Caprice Holdings Ltd.

Announced Regional Chair for Greece and Cyprus at Decanter World Wine Awards 2023, he will once again oversee the panel at the 2024 competition.

Ahead of judging this May – and with entries closing soon on 15th March – we get to know more about Kandylis, his proudest moments, thoughts on the future of Greek and Cypriot wines, as well as advice for producers.

Tell us about yourself. What does a typical day look like?

I’m now the Group Head Sommelier at Noble Rot and we have three sites. We’re a very wine centric group of restaurants. We started as a magazine which is still doing better and better every year and I love what the team is doing, their ethos and approach, and I think we’re very like-minded when it comes to the wines we like and the producers we admire.

My daily or weekly routine includes liaising with the Head Sommelier, all the sommeliers and tasks in each restaurant, being by their side, answering any questions they might have, guiding them and hopefully mentoring them in their steps. In a way, I want to transfer my experiences from the places I’ve been and the wines tied to them.

What is your proudest achievement so far?

I’m quite proud for 2020-2021 when I embarked on a winemaking journey. I bought some vineyards in Ribera del Duero and I started my own winemaking project.

I think the stories and the memories of my grandfather making his own wine, and of course, diving deeper into the world of wine and being able and lucky enough to meet producers and try some of the world’s best wines inspired me. Plus, hospitality was suffering in the middle of the pandemic and I really wanted to embark on this journey.

So one of my proudest achievements is resuscitating some extremely old bush vines. Some of them were abandoned or about to be grubbed up. I feel that making my own wine in Ribera del Duero captures my philosophy and my understanding about the wines of the world.

What is the most valuable lesson you’ve learned in the wine industry so far?

Staying humble. Wine is a fantastic beverage; I call it the social lubricant in the western world. I’m coming from Greece where it was always a vital part in the symposiums and meetings of people. The ancient sommeliers – ‘οenohoos’ as they used to call them – had even more power in their hands!

We’re not going to the moon. We need to stay humble. Wine can teach us so many lessons. When tasting a wine blind, one allows their senses to be part of a play where they’re trying to think about the origin of the wine, the variety or how it’s been made and, quite frequently, they might guess that wrong, so staying grounded I believe is important.

Which wine producing region or varieties would you encourage people to explore?

If speaking about my native Greek varieties, I would definitely say the grapes of Santorini, Robola from Kefalonia when it comes to whites and the amazing varieties in Crete. Then, definitely Xinomavro in terms of reds and Limiona.

Now, when it comes to the wines of the world, the regions that have always been inspiring to me are definitely Burgundy, Northern Rhône and Bordeaux. Now I’m making wine in Spain, so I love Tempranillo and the other local grapes. I love Garnacha, which for me is the Pinot Noir of the South. I actually adore Garnacha!

Finally, I think sommeliers need to try more classic Bordeaux because these wines can be great. They might have fallen out of fashion within the younger generation but I feel like a lot of things are changing and becoming again more relevant to the young consumers. Bordeaux wine, especially with age, is one of the finest wines in the world!

What’s exciting in the wine world right now?

I believe we’re currently in one of the most exciting eras. We now have the scientific medium to analyse old techniques and prove whether what we’re doing is right. We’ve learned from the mistakes of the past and from the systematic cultivations in the 60s and 70s. Now we have a much better understanding and appreciation of what the old farmers were doing, hence the direction towards biodiversity, sustainability but also regenerative viticulture are more relevant than ever.

We’re indeed facing a lot of problems like global warming, irregular climatic systems, floods, frosts, disease pressure that are unprecedented, but at the same time, I think it’s in our hands to reverse the situation. Starting from farming, it’s important that we create an ecosystem that is alive, strong and sustainable rather than just a monocultural organism that is fed by chemicals.

Why do you think people should try wines from Greece and Cyprus?

Greece, and now Cyprus, are coming very strongly into the play. Winemaking and viticulture in these countries is probably at least 4000 years old, so there’s a very long history. We can talk for hours about what the Greeks have contributed to the wine world, but the main thing that Greece and Cyprus now offer is amazing native varieties only to be found in these specific pockets of the world. Some of them are so rare that they can only be found in a small part of the country.

However, although we have a very long winemaking history, I would say that the modern history is quite short. The wine revolution started from the 80s onwards. Greeks and Cypriots are now discovering all these unique varieties they have in their hands and it takes years of experimentation to understand them better.

I think what Greece and Cyprus offer are unique and exciting wines, the majority of which are at very appealing prices and can please every wine consumer and connoisseur. Some of them are truly world class and I don’t just say that because I’m from there! On the contrary – I would say I’m probably the hardest judge when it comes to wines from my native country. Right now, we can certainly say that some producers are really crafting amazing wines from varieties that are purely indigenous and I think they have such unique qualities and personality.

For the restaurateurs, these wines offer amazing value for money, especially now that prices for Burgundy and some Italian wine regions have skyrocketed. Consumers can now find really good wines that don’t break the bank and Greece and Cyprus can offer this.

What’s your advice for DWWA entrants?

I think it’s important that the wines are true to their region and their terroir. I would say that many of the foreign consumers who buy a Cypriot or Greek wine will buy something that is quintessentially Cypriot or Greek, like a Xinisteri, a Maratheftiko, a Limiona, a Mavrodaphni.

When it comes to international blends, they still need to have typicity. Some varieties have adapted better than others. For example, I believe some of the Rhône varieties are performing great. What’s important though, is that the wines are true to their origin, have character and personality. I would say maybe think less of winemaking and more of variety and terroir typicity.

Where do you see the future of wines from Greece and Cyprus?

It’s important for these countries to become more extroverted. What helped the renaissance of Greek wine was actually the recession in the country. Back in 2008-2009 when the domestic market collapsed, the winemakers had to look abroad. Up until then, we were making wine for the Greeks, and now much more wine is getting exported.

There are already many pockets of Greeks abroad like in Munich, Chicago, New York or Australia that have helped in the early days, but now it should all be about education. Educating the sommeliers and the trade to understand the indigenous varieties. I think countries like Greece and Portugal have such a wide array of amazing native varieties that deserve to be explored. We’ve just started in a way! I’ve been lucky and privileged enough to see the growth of Greek wine in the UK.

When I came in London, very few people were keen to try Greek wine. It was still associated with the badly made Retsina. Now you see Retsinas on wine lists! Properly made Retsinas – one of the most ancient styles of wine – being served and admired by an international clientele.

That’s why I always say this is just the beginning. Everyone should keep working, from the farmers and the wine growers to people involved with exports. It’s important to bring people in the country and educate them. It’s a continuous effort which takes a lot of work.

It’s important to be established and in front of the eyes and, of course, on the palates of the wine connoisseurs as a quality-producing country. We don’t make much wine; we are more or less the same size as Austria, so focusing on quality is key.

There are very few wineries that have the capacity to produce wines for supermarkets. The restaurant trade and the wine bars is where the wines have better chances to succeed. It’s impossible to compete with the lower price points of Chile, Argentina, Australia.

What’s an interesting fact about wines from Greece or Cyprus?

When hosting masterclasses I always said that I snowboard in Greece, and people were surprised… but, in fact, Greece is the third most mountainous country in Europe.

Another amazing fact is that Cyprus is phylloxera free. The island is so isolated that phylloxera never made it there. Also, there are many amazing terroirs and some of them in high altitudes. Think of Troodos mountains in Cyprus where you can easily find a vineyard at 1000m.

Finally, everything about Santorini, from the volcanic islands in the southern part of the Aegean to the unique vine training systems that look like bird nests.

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That dream of giving it all up and making wine on a Greek island against a crystal-blue ocean backdrop could become a reality – although it’ll cost several million euros to make it happen at this stone-walled villa.

Named ‘Estrella’, this five-bedroom property on the island of Tinos overlooks the Aegean Sea and comes with a small vineyard and olive trees, as well as other ‘Mediterranean vegetation’. 

Listed at €3.5m (£3m), there is also a winemaking room ‘to produce your own wine from the property’s grapes’, said listing agent, the Greece division of Sotheby’s International Realty. 

The vineyard is planted to the Assyrtiko grape variety, which has gained greater international recognition in recent years for its ability to produce top white wines.

That might suit a wealthy buyer looking to create a ‘hobby’ wine project.

Others, however, may prefer to focus purely on the pleasures of an evening on the large terrace, glass of Assyrtiko in-hand as the sun sinks beneath the horizon.

Stone steps also lead from the garden directly down to Agios Romanos sandy beach.

Sotheby’s said the buyer of the property would be eligible for Greece’s golden visa programme, which essentially offers the prospect of a permanent residency permit via ownership of a property worth at least €250,000. 

This property value threshold doubles in some areas, such as on the better-known islands of Santorini and Mykonos, according to the agency.

Tinos lies within the Cyclades archipelago that also includes Mykonos to the south-east.

It is home to an interesting wine scene, including a project that involves international winemaking consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt.

Greece in general has been generating fresh excitement in the wine world of late. ‘The surging feeling of energy across the Greek wine scene is so potent right now,’ wrote wine expert and broadcaster Olly Smith in a recent column for Decanter magazine. 

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Situated between 32 ̊ and 42 ̊ north, Greek vineyards are some of the world’s hottest. While this might suggest a preference for growing black grapes, red wine only accounts for one third of Greek output. According to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), overall production in 2022 was one of the lowest recorded in decades (down 14% from 2021, to 2.1 million hectolitres), though white wine still has the majority share, accounting for around 60% of volume.

The wide variety of microclimates throughout the mountainous country – ranging from high altitudes to coastal and island vineyards that cool and extend the growing season – create the perfect conditions to produce Greece’s famous zesty, energetic, mineral-driven white wines along with approachable, fruity and floral thirst-quenchers.

Greek whites: Where to find them

Some of Greece’s white wine highlights can be found in regions including Macedonia, the Peloponnese and Santorini.

Moving north to south, the mountainous region of Macedonia covers the largest part of northern Greece and contains two leading PDOs, Naoussa and Amynteo. At their high altitudes (some exceeding 700m above sea level) grapes ripen more slowly in these cooler terroirs, developing more interesting flavours as a result.

While they are both exclusively red wine PDOs, there are exceptional white wines to be found in Florina and Drama in Macedonia from Malagousia and Assyrtiko grapes.

The upside down hand-shaped peninsula in the south is the Peloponnese. With the largest vineyard plantings in Greece, the Peloponnese is responsible for around 30% of the nation’s wine, producing every style from sparkling to fortified.

Nemea and Mantinia are especially prestigious PDOs of this region, both reaching high altitudes of 800m – edging towards the Aegean sea – and producing exceptional wines. While Nemea is a PDO for reds, Mantinia is a PDO for white wines, where the pink-skinned Moschofilero must legally make up at least 85% of the blend for the dry white wines.

Roditis is commonly found here too, where it can appear as a modest (if somewhat bland) white wine, but is increasingly used for more modern and complex wines, too.

Island viticulture in Greece dates back to antiquity, and it is these regions where strong, onshore winds – especially on the Cyclades islands, such as Santorini – result in the famous mineral-driven, saline and acidic white wines.

Relentless Aegean gales and merciless droughts provide challenging viticultural conditions for growers. Yet they persist in working their basket-trained vines with pride, some of which date back 200 years on their original roots where the volcanic soils are phylloxera free. All this results in extremely low yields (due to a combination of very old vines and very difficult conditions), yet demand continues to grow, in turn pushing up prices for Greek island wines.

The white varieties

Around 300 indigenous grape varieties constitute 90% of plantings. Sure, many of them are unpronounceable to the average wine consumer, adding a significant challenge in marketing the wines internationally. But the adventurous drinker will delight in bypassing the Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio in favour of any one of these Greek wonders.

The best-known Greek white wines are undoubtedly Retsina and Assyrtiko. Retsina is famous for historical reasons and has an unarguably chequered reputation, long associated with inferior wine often made from a blend of grapes and masked by pine resin flavours. Traditionally Savatiano (along with Roditis) is the main grape in Retsina wines. Widely planted for its high yields and drought resistance, Savatiano has been a natural choice for producers churning out cheap and simple white wines over the past decades. However, winemakers like Papagiannakos Winery and Muses Estate are seeking out older vines with lowered yields to produce high-quality contemporary wines.

Assyrtiko is Greece’s best success story. Originally from Santorini, now internationally acclaimed, Assyrtiko is widely planted on mainland Greece as it has proven to be drought resistant while retaining freshness when ripe. The flavour concentration intensifies with older vines, and this, coupled with the razor-sharp acidity gives the wines spectacular power and ageability. Assyrtiko is also used to produce sweet wines, such as Vinsanto from Santorini.

Lovers of Viognier or Muscat will feel at home with Moschofilero. This aromatic variety serves up fragrant floral, citrus and spice notes. Usually a lighter body style, with medium alcohol and best enjoyed fresh. Its pink skin means it can also appear as rosé wine with extended skin contact, and even give a blush hue to white wines.

Malagousia went from unfashionable to high profile in recent decades with plantings now popping up all over Greece. Its softer acidity has inspired savvy winemakers to blend it with Assyrtiko, while others bottle it as a single varietal embracing its pronounced nectarine, honeysuckle and rose petal profile. High altitudes, cooler sites, or early picked grapes show a green herbal edge, not unlike Sauvignon Blanc; Alpha Estate Malagouzia, Single Vineyard ‘Turtles’, grown at over 600m above sea level is a perfect example of this racier style.

Though it’s the indigenous grapes of Greece that are most interesting to discover, international varieties such as Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc are ever prevalent. The best examples are when they have been blended with local varieties such as Cavino’s Mega Spileo Cuvée III White blend of Assyrtiko, Malagousia and Chardonnay.

These exciting exotic grapes, varied terroirs, and soaring quality levels are why consumers will not be bored spending their summer exploring Greek wine gems.

Greek white wines to drink this summer

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Visiting a Spanish winemaker in the south of Spain recently, I had driven down to see her from Terra Alta. She asked, ‘Where?’, and I repeated, Gandesa in Terra Alta. Again she queried, where?

If a Spanish wine industry professional is not clear on the region’s location, it’s hardly surprising that there are still far too few wines from Terra Alta in foreign markets. That’s such a shame, and I’ll tell you why.

Scroll down for Beth Willard’s pick of 18 Terra Alta wines to try

A couple of hours’ drive southeast of Zaragoza and a little less southwest from Barcelona, Terra Alta finds itself where the wilds of Aragón make way for the rugged hinterland of Catalonia before the region meets the sea. Not quite on the coast but close enough to benefit from important sea breezes; not quite the highest part of Catalonia but high enough to profit from the freshness that altitude brings; and not quite famous enough to be on the main tourist route, yet its landscapes have inspired generations of artists, Picasso included.

The superstar grape is Garnacha (Garnatxa in the Catalan) in its white, red and hairy (Garnatxa Peluda) forms: of the DO region’s declared 39,400 tonnes of grape production for 2022, it made up more than half. And, with two exceptions, Garnachas are the dominant grapes in all the wines I selected here. To the great benefit of these varieties, winemakers are mostly restrained in their use of oak, producing balanced wines with more focus on fruit and freshness: you will note that many of the wines I have selected show very little oak influence or none at all.

Building on tradition

As in many regions of Spain, there is a return to the past with the creation of the Vi Brisat category for white wines fermented in contact with skins. This had been the traditional method to make white wines, but the practice was almost lost when modernisation and stainless steel arrived. The DO authority officially recognised the method in its 2022 bylaw revisions. I’ve selected two examples which I hope will satisfy both knowledgeable fans of orange wines and newcomers to the category.

Could this region be Catalonia’s best-kept secret? Over the past decade I’ve witnessed an enviable increase in the number of very high-quality wines. Newer, smaller producers are making characterful wines with unique identity, while more established growers have put a greater focus on single-vineyard sites, many of which are full of (very) old vines and are organically curated (as are nearly half the wines in my selection).

The wines from Terra Alta seem quite effortless, capturing the heat and intensity of Spain’s harsh interior but remaining bright and fresh, Mediterranean cool. My only complaint: there are many more wines of equal quality to those on this list that are not yet in the UK (or US) markets. Hopefully they will reach our shores soon.

See Beth Willard’s pick of 18 Terra Alta wines

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A little background first. The unstitching of France’s colonial empire in North Africa between 1956 and 1962 intensified political tensions on Corsica as well as giving rise to an ill-starred attempt by recently arrived French-Algerian wine farmers to turn Corsica’s eastern plains into a gigantic factory vineyard. Between 1960 and 2000, production rose four-fold – then collapsed.

Away from the plains in the higher-quality appellation zones, meanwhile, an undiscerning tourist market combined with the distraction of ongoing economic and political struggles led to what Etienne Suzzoni of Clos Culombu in the island’s north has called ‘a dilettante period’ for Corsican wine. When I wrote The New France between 2000 and 2002, Corsica was little more than a quiet postscript and its wines, I felt, ‘too insular for their own good’.

No longer. In place of the unwanted 30,000ha, Corsican production has now shrunk to about 6,000ha, and a calmer political atmosphere (thanks to increasing political autonomy) is taking tourism upmarket and rewarding winemaking investment. Growing pride in Corsican identity means a reassessment of the island’s 30 or so indigenous varieties. Meanwhile, the younger generation is bringing conceptual freshness, design flair and contemporary winemaking subtlety to the island.

Cue a problem of growing familiarity: rusting appellation regulations. ‘We have perpetual discussions,’ says Guillaume Seroin of Sant’Armettu in Sartène (southwest). ‘Corsica has difficulty with change. Tradition is important and I want to honour it, but at the same time I want to sell my wine and not follow the rules of others.’

Yves Leccia, one of the island’s quality pioneers, felt obliged to switch his production from AP Patrimonio to Vin de France shortly before the 2022 harvest. ‘They don’t want to discuss anything,’ says Yves’ wife Sandrine about the appellation authorities. ‘It’s been very hard for Yves.’ Eric Mialhe of Domaine Vico and Clos Venturi says the problem lies in Paris with the INAO, which ‘doesn’t want to move forward’.

Those buying the wines seem blithely disengaged with what’s on the label. Suzzoni’s son Paul-Antoine has been taking over from his father at Clos Culombu since 2016, and the ‘Storia di…’ range he has created makes full use of the 19 varieties now planted at this domaine near Calvi, as well as using steel, earthenware jars and concrete eggs for ageing the wines. The white Storia di E Signore 2021 mingles Vermentino (just 25%) with co-fermented native whites like Brustianu, Cualtacciu, Biancu Ghjentile, Cudiverta, Riminese and Genovese, and the result is doughy, honeyed yet stony, softly echoing with fugitive allusions. The red Storia di Sgio 2020 does the same for the island’s Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu combination, bringing it into play with Carcaghjolu, Murescone, Aleaticu and Vintaghju. The effect here is urgent, vital, salty-savoury yet vividly fruity, too, full of the shock of the new.

That same unassignable exoticism combined with textural finesse and assured balance and control can be seen in the red Yves Leccia, O Bà! 2018 (mingling Niellucciu with Grenache – called Elegante on the island – and Minustellu), while Biancu Ghjentile performs solo in Leccia’s white Altru Biancu 2021: sappy, spicy, stony, succulent, and built as much on plant flavour as fruit. Another haunting solo turn comes with Sant’Armettu’s Elegante 2021: sumptuously silky red wine from the granite sands of the Coteaux de Tizzano.

What’s underway on Corsica is a new exploration of Mediterranean wine identity, of its limits and lineaments. I wonder if they’re paying attention in Provence?

In my glass this month

Corsica’s leading inland, high-altitude estate is Domaine Vico and its Clos Venturi single-vineyard sibling, both now imported to the UK by Liberty Wines. The red Domaine Vico, Le Bois de Cerf 2021 (a Niellucciu and Sciaccarellu blend sold under the Vin de Corse AP) is singing and close-grained, with a bright, juicy purity and freshness to it. Mediterranean wine for Burgundy lovers? See what you think.

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Personality. I can think of few parts of the world of wine that possess as much of it, alongside individuality, as Israel. Its story needs to be heard. Wine has been central to this land since before it was even Israel, and Judaism celebrates with wine for much of its ritual.

Modern Israeli wine was born in the 1880s when Baron Edmond de Rothschild introduced mainly Bordeaux varieties to the region. Ambitious planting programmes took place a century later, and many Israelis studied winemaking abroad – particularly in California.

The 1990s saw a flourishing of innovative smaller wineries, though the most marked developments have occurred in the past 10 years.

Scroll down for Demetri Walters MW’s pick of the best 18 wines from Israel

As you might expect, Israel is the centre of kosher wine production. This adheres to Jewish kashrut dietary laws and is handled by observant Jews. However, it’s not all about the rising fortunes of kosher.

According to Adam Montefiore, journalist and author of The Wine Route of Israel, while some 95% of Israel’s wine is kosher, about 45% of the 300 or so wineries, mostly boutique operations, are non-kosher.

Small but mighty

For a diminutive country, Israel possesses an impressive diversity of microclimates and topography.

A Mediterranean climate persists across most of the country, with long, hot summers and cool, wet winters, and even snow on higher ground.

Annual rainfall varies from 1,000mm and up in the often cooler and more humid Galilee and Golan Heights, to about 50mm in the Negev.

Generally speaking, soils are volcanic in the elevated northern regions of Galilee and Golan (rising to 1,200m), with sandy red soils (including terra rossa) and alluvial soil on the Coastal Plain, and limestone and chalk in the Central Mountains, home to the celebrated Shomron, Mount Carmel and Judean Hills.

The Judean Foothills comprise more than a quarter of Israel’s 5,500ha of wine vineyards and are generally chalk and clay.

The Negev Highlands abound with vineyards up to about 1,000m and soils range from loess to sandy loam.

The focus in general is on sub-regions, but Israel’s winemakers are as yet largely unencumbered by appellation restrictions.

Though the trend is moving away from varietal wines towards blends, long-time residents include: Chardonnay, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Shiraz/Syrah; while Viognier, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre are growing in popularity.

So, too, are characterful native varieties of Palestine – whites Dabouki, Hamdani/Marawi and Jandali, and reds Baladi and Bittuni – although for now they exist in tiny populations. Israel’s own local red crossing Argaman performs excellently in affordable, deeply coloured, fruity wines.

This is a land with a very long vinous memory, though we’re witnessing many new initiatives in its current phase of history. You might say that this is an Old World country with a New World take on making wine. Ultimately it’s about wine quality. It’s never been better, and its delivery is engagingly bold and characterful.

With special thanks going to Moshé Cohen (inthevineyardwith.com) for ably assisting with samples not currently available in the UK. DW

See Demetri Walters MW’s pick of the best 18 Israeli wines

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If it were possible to give an entire country an award, our Rising Star would in all likelihood be named as Greece. The country’s winemaking has made enormous strides, and it is now producing truly world-class wines. Much credit for its increased profile on the global stage should go to one person, though, who is the very worthy winner of this year’s Rising Star award.

Apostolos Thymiopoulos, based in Naoussa in Macedonia, northern Greece, is far more than a fabulously talented winemaker. He has become the ambassador for Greece’s new wines and winemakers, taking Greece beyond the southern Mediterranean and establishing it on international markets. Further, he has done this through his transformation of Xinomavro, a red grape likely unfamiliar to most, and seen as overwhelmingly tannic by many of those who have come across it. Thymiopoulos has propelled the hitherto relatively obscure region of Naoussa and its formerly unloved grape variety to success in global markets; it’s an exceptional achievement.

Thymiopoulos was the first in his family to bottle the wine from their grapes. He had worked in the vineyards from an early age. ‘I always wanted to work on the family farm,’ he recalls. ‘As a teenager I was fascinated by wine and wondered why we always sold our grapes on. At high school I discovered that I could study winemaking at Athens University, and that way I’d be equipped to make wines.’ His long-term UK importer, Mary Pateras of Eclectic Wines, says: ‘There was no plan B – it was oenology or nothing.’

After university, Thymiopoulos opened a wine shop in Thessaloniki. The access this gave him to fine wines from elsewhere in Greece and beyond, and to understanding consumer demand, was to be a key influence. But after his father and brother died in quick succession, he closed the shop to work full-time in the family winery.

From small beginnings

Earth and Sky had been his first release in 2005 (vintage 2003). ‘In 2008,’ recalls Pateras, ‘we were importing the wines of Haridimos Hatzidakis, from Santorini, and he suggested we go and see Apostolos. We met, shook hands, and our first order was 20 dozen. He told us that he was happy to start small, he just wanted a presence in the UK.’ Today he sells ‘pallets and pallets’, but it illustrates his determination to develop international markets from the beginning.

The wine shop was a key influence, and so too was Hatzidakis. He died far too young in 2017, aged just 50, but he had been Greece’s most influential winemaker – an inspiration to a generation of terroir-focused winemakers. The pair were firm friends. Together they would holiday in France and Italy along with their importer, visiting biodynamic producers, eating and drinking well, and picking up new ideas.

Thymiopoulos, as Hatzidakis did, farms biodynamically. He also follows the non-interventionist agricultural practices of the late Japanese thinker Masanobu Fukuoka. It may be

that Thymiopoulos studied winemaking, but his inspiration is the soil. His life is mostly spent in the car, travelling between vineyards. Visitors will always catch up with him in a car. My last rendezvous with him was at a roundabout…

Thymiopoulos’ restless energy is in contrast to the elegance of his wines. Ben Greene, of UK merchant Wine & Greene, says: ‘His signature is harmony, a fine balance, and tannin management.’ He adds: ‘He’s a lovely guy.’ Charlie Young of London wine bar group Vinoteca remembers meeting Thymiopoulos in Greece about six years ago. ‘There was energy and excitement about him,’ he recalls. ‘The wines we tried were knockout. His wines are an easy sell because people always love them. We pitch the Xinomavro like many others do – somewhere between Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir – yet it’s very much its own thing.’

Looking ahead

What lies ahead for our 2022 Decanter Rising Star? He has expanded his winery and populated it with concrete eggs and amphorae, as well as his preferred larger-size oak. Rosés have entered his repertoire: ‘I felt a good rosé has great potential to be a gastronomic wine, and not just a marketing product to save money. Domaine Tempier from Bandol is my favourite, and the Viña Tondonia Rioja rosado inspires me to be brave and daring.’

Matthew Horsley, wine buyer at The Wine Society, talks of his ‘now legendary rosés, which have wowed people again and again’, describing Thymiopoulos’ wines as being ‘of impeccable elegance and authenticity’. They are ‘not just up there with the finest wines in Greece’, Horsley says, ‘but can stand proudly among the finest wines in the world’. Thymiopoulos will continue to build on the success of the late-release rosé Xinomavro with a forthcoming late-release white. He’s also considering a blanc de noirs sparkling.

‘It should be said that Apostolos Thymiopoulos isn’t just a great winemaker, he’s also a great person,’ Horsley sums up. ‘Incredibly kind, impossibly generous and tireless in his pursuit of excellence. Simply put, he’s a joy to work with.’

Apostolos Thymiopoulos: Five winemakers and what they taught me

‘When I opened my shop in Thessaloniki, I had no real knowledge of the world of wine, and everything was exciting, a discovery,’ says Apostolos Thymiopoulos. ‘When customers bought wines, I would always ask them what had influenced their choice, in order to get first-hand experience of the market. Today, when I’m with friends and family they always ask me to choose. Normally I’ll select organic wines for their purity and the way they reflect the winemaker’s expertise. I have winemaker friends all over the world. The five I name below have taught me so much, whether with a specific wine, or for their overall philosophy.’

Christophe Roumier, Burgundy:

‘I discovered Christophe’s Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses during a memorable tasting at the winery some years ago. He made me understand how important it is to make good use of the barrels to get the very best of a terroir that gives different fruit character every year, depending on the weather conditions.’

Jacques Selosse, Champagne:

‘From Jacques, I learned patience – a value that I appreciate in each of his wines.’

Jean-François Ganevat, Jura:

‘This estate’s wines encouraged me to push my own limits and, above all, never to stop experimenting.’

Domaine Gramenon, Rhône:

‘At Philippe Pinoteau’s restaurant Le Baratin in Paris, I discovered La Mémé, Côtes du Rhône rouge, which taught me to respect the fruit during winemaking and to express this

in the wines I produce.’

Haridimos Hatzidakis, Santorini:

‘Haridimos taught me how to extract freshness from fire – that is, how to produce wines with freshness and finesse from a hot volcanic terroir.’

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Dream of Tuscany, Andalucia or Alentejo and you will likely see rolling hills dotted by sculptural olive trees, interspersed with vineyards of gnarly old vines. Olive groves and vines have defined the culture and landscapes of the Mediterranean basin for centuries, inseparable companions across southern Europe and the Middle East. Geopolitics, trade and nature have all played a part in the relationship.

Scroll down to see a selection of olive oils made by wine estates

Vines and olive trees thrive in some of the most challenging areas within the 30° and 45° parallels, having adapted to drought and mineral-poor soils where other crops perish. ‘Other trees struggle on the rocky soils in which vines perform best,’ says Adrian Bridge, CEO of The Fladgate Partnership, owner of Quinta de Vargellas, an iconic Douro estate where olive oil is still produced. ‘But olive trees have shallow roots and can survive, for centuries, on inhospitable soils.’ While at the same time preventing erosion and improving soil structure. ‘This, and the fact that they provided shade for the field workers, is why they were planted along the Douro’s roads and slope edges.’

Both olives and vines were domesticated in and around Asia Minor some 6,000 years ago and then propagated by the Phoenicians across the Greek mainland and islands, where they became cornerstones of the Hellenic and Roman cultures. The expansion of the Roman empire would establish them all around the Mediterranean, consolidating the economic importance of both wine and olive oil, consumed as foodstuffs as well as for cosmetic, medicinal and religious purposes. Olive trees also provided fuel. ‘Olive oil was, for centuries, the main if not the only cooking fat used in the Douro,’ says Bridge. ‘And it was the only source of light; we used olive oil lamps at Vargellas up until electricity arrived in 1977.’

Championing biodiversity

If technological development and the aftermath of phylloxera conspired to support the hegemony of international grape varieties, a worldwide (re)discovery of olive oil also threatened the diversity of olive plant material. The growth of southern European immigrant communities in north America in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and the promotion of the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet in the 1980s, catalysed a global increase in demand, to which industrial producers responded with high-density monovarietal plantations.

These olive groves, which now cover large areas in Spain, Portugal and California, shape a very different landscape from that of postcard Mediterranean. Even though more than 700 olive varieties have been identified worldwide, the International Olive Council estimates that only 139 account for roughly 85% of olive oil production. It should therefore come as no surprise that – as has happened with indigenous, often forgotten, grape varieties – it has fallen upon quality-minded, terroir-driven wine producers to preserve the patrimony of old olive trees that have, for centuries, shared the land with their vines.

The Torres family, for instance, carefully preserves the productivity of centennial olive trees in its Purgatori estate, in Costers del Segre. From the 89ha of vineyards, three olive oils are produced, including one from a 400-year-old plot and a blend of two local, nearly extinct varieties.

Terroir expression

Olive oil is the only commercially and nutritionally significant vegetable oil to be extracted from fruits rather than seeds. This means that the quality of the raw material is paramount, as are the varieties used, maturity at harvest and the conditions of each growing season. In other words, terroir and vintage shape, as in wine, the nature of each olive harvest.

Sicilian powerhouse Donnafugata discovered the parallel when expanding its estate portfolio to Pantelleria (1989) and then Etna (2016). In each of the dramatically different Sicilian regions, two local olive varieties, Biancolilla and Nocellara Etnea, produce oils that are as characterfully distinct as the wines of their territorial grape counterparts. The olive groves in each of the regions also show how the trees have evolved with the territory, their shape and size sculpted by the different winds, microclimates and soils.

The team at Castello di Meleto (Chianti Classico, Tuscany) have also encountered a striking parallel between the character of the oils of each of their olive groves and that of the adjacent vineyards. ‘It’s fascinating to see how oil and wine from the same terroir show the same finesse, florality, concentration and/or power,’ says Michele Contartese, general manager at Meleto. ‘This is why we harvest and extract the oils separately, plot by plot, and then make a final blend.’

Donnafugata – like Torres, Meleto, Fladgate and indeed most oil-producing wine estates – relies on external olive mills to press its fruit. The amount of oil pressed does not usually justify the investment in dedicated infrastructure and machinery.

Some estates have, however, decided to invest in their own milling facilities, therefore controlling quality from olive to oil, as they do from grape to glass. Herdade do Esporão (Alentejo, Portugal) saw this as an absolute requirement for quality when deciding to start commercial olive oil production in 1997. The estate bought an existing olive mill in Serpa to start with, before designing and building its own mill in 2016, a stone’s throw from the estate’s cellar and Michelin-starred restaurant, where, unsurprisingly, the company’s oils take centre stage.

Educating consumers

‘It’s a shame that olive oil isn’t fully understood, either by consumers or the industry, as a high- quality product rather than a commodity,’ says Ana Carrilho, Esporão’s head of olive oil production. ‘Producing a quality oil depends on a set of variables – harvest time, varieties, quick processing, terroir and so on – that are very similar to wine. I hope that one day olive oil will be perceived in all its diversity and complexity, just like wine, and that people understand the differences in price.’

For Carrilho, the need to preserve old trees and varieties is not just motivated by faithfulness to a cultural lineage. As climate change looms large, it is important to understand that ‘we need to be humble’. Older trees, local varieties, biodiversity and considered planting density are, for olive trees and for vines, key to promoting adaptiveness and effective resource management. At stake is the survival of two of nature’s most precious nectars, and of the cultures that have evolved with them.

How to taste olive oil

Like wine, tasting olive oilrequires a specific skill set and vocabulary, developed through the understanding of both qualities and defects.

Colour is not, except in cases of obvious oxidation, an indication of quality; whether an oil is green, gold or even orange-hued is merely a function of variety, growing conditions and harvest time. This is why professional oil tasters use cobalt blue glasses, not letting colour influence their organoleptic perception and quality assessment. Some producers decide to bottle their oils unfiltered, so cloudiness is also not necessarily a defect.

The full range of volatile components is only released at 28°C, so the first step is, after pouring a tablespoon of oil in a lidded tasting cup, to cradle it in one’s hand to bring the temperature up. Following which the lid can be removed for a first sniff of the aromas and defects (see below). To assess the palate, it is important to sip enough to roll around the mouth and cover the tongue, mixing the oil with saliva, which in turn allows body and texture, in addition to flavour, to be judged. Experienced tasters will also suck in air to release more aromas.

It is essential to swallow some of the oil to assess its pungency, bitterness and spiciness, only clearly felt in the back of the throat. Green apple and water (never bread!) are the best palate cleansers to reset the palate between oils.

Main aroma/flavour categories: apple (colour, ripeness?); tomato (type, berry, leaf?); artichoke; nuts (almond, walnuts etc – fresh or toasted?); grass (freshly cut, dried?); herbs (fresh, dried?); fruits (banana, pineapple, peach, pear etc); bitterness; spice.

Main defects: rancidity, oxidation, mustiness, sludgy/fustiness, heated/ burnt, metallic, winey (wine or vinegar aftertaste).

Olive oils from wine estates: a selection of delicious examples to try

Donnafugata, Biancolilla Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Pantelleria, Sicily, Italy

£21.09/50cl* donnafugata.it

Variety: Biancolilla. A pure example of the variety, grown on Pantelleria’s windswept groves, with its gentle florality and vibrant fruit notes underpinned by the vegetal freshness of cherry tomatoes and the herbal earthiness of rosemary, lavender and thyme. A great way to understand – especially if tasted alongside the estate’s Nocellara Etnea (earthier, spicier and more robust) – how olive oils can be so varietal and terroir expressive.

Herdade do Esporão, Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Alentejo, Portugal

£21.95/50cl Fortnum & Mason

Variety: Galega. This is a pure and vibrant example of Portugal’s flagship variety Galega. Very balanced, with a fruit-led attack dominated by green apple, crunchy pear and almond shells. The finish is moreish and gently spicy with lingering flavours of walnuts and toasted almonds.

Castello di Meleto, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Tuscany, Italy

£18/50cl* castellomeleto.com

Varieties: Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino, Pendolino. Castello de Meleto is committed to traditional farming methods and the preservation of the existing biodiversity. ‘A vacuum is always dangerous,’ says Giacomo Sensi, chief agronomist at the Chianti Classico estate, referring to monoculture, ‘because it doesn’t exist in nature.’ Instead, Meleto seeks balance through precision organic farming, crop rotation and the introduction of bee colonies to fight pests and promote pollination. Its oil hails from 10ha on four different terroirs. Low yields and old trees result in a robust and deeply aromatic oil, with a citrus lift and almondy finish.

Sant’Or, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Patra, Greece

£13/50cl Pure Wines

Varieties: Patrinia, Stafiloelies. Having inherited his father’s land in the Peloponnese and then converted it to biodynamic practices, Panagiotis Dimitropoulos of Sant’Or Wines has become the committed guardian of a unique heritage and is determined to preserve the rare indigenous Mavrodaphne and Santameriana grapes, as well as these local olive varieties. Stafiloelies produces an intense and textural oil, with rich aromas of artichokes, milk thistle and fresh almonds, topped by mint, rosemary and black pepper.

Familia Torres, El Silencio Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Catalonia, Spain

£12.20/50cl The Fine Cheese Co

Varietiy: Arbequina. It wouldn’t be either fair or accurate to call this the entry-level oil in the range produced by Torres at its Purgatori estate in Costers del Segre. Granted, it is the cheapest and the more widely available oil, but it hails from 400-year-old Arbequina trees and is extremely balanced and elegant. The nose is fresh and complex, with herbal, vegetal and citrus nuances. Flavours of artichoke, tomato leaf and blanched almonds are followed by a subtle, spicy lift.

Taylor’s, Quinta de Vargellas Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Douro, Portugal

£10.95-£15.95/50cl Cotswold Port Co, Dunell’s, The Secret Bottle Shop

Varieties: Madural, Cordovil, Verdeal. Produced from the 3,000 olive trees that have, for centuries, lined the edge of roads and vineyard slopes of the iconic Douro estate. Elegantly grassy, with notes of freshly cut grass and asparagus, it unfolds with a fruity and smooth-textured mid-palate, followed by a gently spicy finish.

Recaredo, Olivar de Can Credo, Alt Penedès, Catalunya, Spain

£14.50/50cl* shop.recaredo.com

Variety: Arbequina. Only 1000 bottles made of this characterful olive oil from an estate owned by the Recaredo family on the Montpedrós mountain, farmed, as all of its vine counterparts, biodynamically. The 2021 bottling is now sold out but, with the 2022 harvest on the horizon, it is well worth seeking out this oil, in which full-bodied richness is offset by a citrus lift and a touch of Mediterranean herbs that speaks well of terroir.

Bodegas Roda, L’Amo Aubocassa, Manacor, Majorca, Spain

£19.95/50cl amazon.co.uk

Varieties: Arbequina and Picual. Not happy with having olive oil production merely as a side gig, Rioja’s Bodegas Roda decided to invest in a dedicated estate and production facility. After a careful search for the ideal setting, the decision fell upon the Aubocassa estate in Manacor, Majorca. Here, two olive oils are now produced: a single-varietal Arbequina, simply named Aubocassa, and this Arbequina and Picual blend which pays tribute to the estate’s keeper, respectfully called ‘L’Amo’ (the master), as the true guardian of the knowledge of the trees and land. A very expressive nose of fresh herbs (mint, oregano, rosemary), rocket and ripe tomatoes is followed by a fleshy framework of blanched almonds, pistachio, kiwi and banana. The pleasant, lingering piquancy adds freshness.

Quinta do Noval, Centenário Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Douro, Portugal

£32/50cl Cellar Door Wines

Varieties: Verdeal, Madural and Cordovil. A limited edition bottling from, as the name suggests, century-old trees from the renowned Douro estate. Quinta do Noval has 26 hectares of olive groves, planted to local varieties, and for this olive oil the fruit from a selection of the best, low-yielding plants was processed following traditional methods, with extraction done in old granite millstones. The result is an oil of intense subtlety, creamy and round, with distinct herbal notes (rosemary, lavender, thyme, bayleaf) lined by fresh almond and crunchy pear. Very long, fruit-driven finish with a gentle spicy touch.

* Shipping direct to the UK – check billing or confirm with producer at purchase

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In 1947, the Nobel Prize-winning American author John Steinbeck wrote in his Russian Journal, ‘Wherever we had been in Russia… the magical name of Georgia came up constantly… And they spoke of the country… as a kind of second heaven.’

The best part of a century on, that sense remains. When in 2021 I travelled to Imereti in western Georgia to make wine, my impression was of somewhere almost Arcadian, of snowcapped mountains that skirted every horizon, of lush green hills and gentle valleys, of trees bejewelled with ochre-hued persimmons, fiery pink pomegranates – and, of course, vines heavy with grapes.

Georgia’s wine heritage and culture are like no other. Its language gave us the very word “wine” (from the Georgian “gvino”), while archaeological finds indicate that winemaking began there at least 8,000 years ago. It is also home to one of the largest number of indigenous grape varieties in the world.

Tied to its unique wine culture is an equally unique food culture. Practically everything I ate while I was in Georgia was a delicious discovery, revealing a rich variety of ingredients and recipes, often assimilated from empires that have tried (and failed) to conquer this warrior nation (NB: the often-heard Georgian word for cheers, “gaumarjos”, translates as “to your victory”).

For any gourmand planning a Georgian adventure, below is a selection of my favourite places to visit in my top three wine destinations: Kakheti, Imereti and the capital of Tbilisi.

1. Kakheti

Roughly an hour’s drive east from Tbilisi, Kakheti is Georgia’s biggest and best-known wine region, where you will find wines made from Georgia’s most-planted red and white grapes: Saperavi and Rkatsiteli. Owing to its warmer climate and easier ripening conditions, Kakheti is also the region where you will see more evidence of skin and stem-maceration, with white grapes and thus more of the deep, tannic amber wines with which Georgia is synonymous.

With its hilltop location overlooking the vast Alazani Valley, cobbled streets and elegant, terracotta-tiled historic buildings, Sighnaghi presents a convincing case for being the quaintest village in all of Georgia. It is the perfect place from which to explore local wineries and restaurants – most notably Pheasant’s Tears, the winery of “Georgianised” American winemaker and artist, John Wurdeman. A short drive away in Tibaani you will find the Pheasant’s Tears-owned Crazy Pomegranate restaurant. Overlooking the Pheasant’s Tears vineyards and with the Caucasus mountains as its backdrop, this is one of the loveliest dining settings in Georgia. Chef Ketevan Mindorashvili’s creatively prepared Georgian cuisine uses seasonal ingredients from the estate’s farm and the local area.

Another winery eminently worthy of attention, just half an hour’s drive north from Sighnaghi, in Kardenakhi, is Nikalas Marani. Owner Zurab Mgvdliashvili is one of Georgia’s most-respected natural winemakers, producing wines from the Kakhetian grape varieties Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Kisi, Saperavi and the rare but resurgent Khikhvi. These are wines of rare vitality and character, and to taste through the range is an experience you will not forget.

2. Imereti

Baia’s Wine – the dynamic young sibling trio of Baia, Gvantsa and Giorgi Abuladze are the poster models of a new generation of Georgian winemakers – entrepreneurial, outward-looking, but with a deep commitment to their winemaking heritage. Book a visit to their charming family winery – complete with 1,000-2,000-litre underground qvevris – in the bucolic village of Meore Obcha and you will be left in no doubt about Georgia’s famed hospitality.

Traditional home-cooked Georgian dishes such as tabaka (pan-fried chicken of the most more-ish kind), nigvziani badrijani (aubergine rolls stuffed with walnut paste), lobio (a soul-nourishing, coriander-spiced bean stew) and khachapuri (Georgia’s ubiquitous cheese-filled flatbread) will be served alongside the family’s delicious wines, made from lmereti’s principal grape varieties, Tsitska, Tsolikouri, Krakhuna (whites) and Otskhanuri Sapere (red). If you’re very lucky, the three siblings’ father might open a bottle of his locally famous chacha (a Georgian pomace brandy).

Another useful Imeretian name to note is Gaoiz Sopromadze. During the Soviet era, families who for many generations had made wines were forced to abandon their cellars and hand over their vineyards. When Georgia won its independence in 1991, Sopromadze was among a small group of traditional winemakers, along with the likes of Ramaz Nikoladze and Simon Chkheidze, who set about restoring the heritage that Soviet Russia had sought to destroy. A visit to Gaoiz Sopromadze Wine Cellar in rural Bagdati will be rewarded with some of the purest-tasting terroir wines Imereti has to offer. All the more special when enjoyed on the terrace, in front of the family’s open-air qvevri cellar.

3. Tbilisi

Start your tour of this ancient city at Tbilisi Wine Museum (8 Sioni St), located on the left bank of the Mtkvari river. Guided tours in English are available. Here, protected by a plastic case, you will find a very important clay pot – a qvevri, around 1,000l in volume, which is the foundation to Georgia’s claim to being the birthplace of wine. Grape pips and acid residue found in this vessel reveal that wine was being made in this part of the Caucasus 8,000 years ago.

Wine bars well worth a visit include the appropriately named 8,000 Vintages. This popular mini-chain of four wine shop//bars is a sign of just how quickly Georgian wine has grown commercially. It opened six years ago offering 250 wines from 50 different wineries. Now it sells more than 1,250 wines from around 400 producers. The flagship venue is at 60 Abashidze St, where you can browse the seemingly infinite walls of Georgian wine and taste with knowledgeable and enthusiastic young staff.

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in the natural wine scene of Georgia, one unassuming subterranean bar close to Freedom Square promises the motherlode, Vino Underground. This hallowed venue was opened in 2012 by a collective of eight Georgian winemakers to showcase local wines made naturally, without compromise. You may well find your mind and tastebuds blown as you taste through their flights of wine (four offered, the wines always changing depending on availability and the whim of whichever staff member is on duty). Many of them are micro-cuvées that you won’t find anywhere else.

‘Everything was delicious…’

Steinbeck got it exactly right when he wrote about Georgian food, ‘Everything was delicious. The flavours were all new, and we wanted to taste all of them.’ Like all great food nations, Georgia’s richness comes from its messy history. Thanks to its location on the Silk Route and to the empires that tried (and failed) to conquer it – Russian, Greek, Ottoman, Persian, Mongol (notably delicious are the broth-filled khinkali dumplings, so reminiscent of Chinese xiaolongbao) – it has absorbed a hugely diverse larder of ingredients and flavours. If you’re in search of food and refreshment in Tbilisi, these three venues may serve you well…

Fine Georgian dining

Stunning food, an impeccable wine list and beautiful décor, Ninia’s Garden in Old Tbilisi (97 Dimitri Uznadze St) has not been open long, but it has fast become the restaurant of choice for Tbilisi’s urban professionals. Laid-back and spacious, it’s perfect for relaxed lunches or intimate evening dining. Chef Meriko Gubeladze’s menu reinterprets the traditional flavours and recipes of Georgia, throwing in exotic hints of the Middle East. The restaurant’s name – and its elegant walled garden – was inspired by Ninia Zaridze, a Georgian merchant who, at a time when people had to pay to visit Tbilisi’s public gardens, invited them to enjoy hers gratis (for free).

Street food with style

For simpler but no less delicious sustenance, Tamtaki (22 Dimitri Bakradze St) will not disappoint. For several years chef-proprietor Tamta Kikaleishvili lived in London, working in fine dining restaurants including The Ritz and the Michelin-starred Pied à Terre. When she returned to her home country, she opened Tbilisi’s first “street food meets fine dining” venue, serving street food-style dishes with top-quality ingredients and the subtle flair you would expect from a chef used to working in world-class kitchens.

Riverside retreat

With its labyrinthine (and often perilously steep) streets and many places to sample wine, Old Tbilisi is can be a heady and disorientating place. If you lose your way or simply feel the need to retreat, head for the Corner on the River (Dedaena Park, Tbilisi 0105). This charming café perched on the bank of the Mtkvari river offers relative repose and one of the most privileged views in Tbilisi. If all that wine is becoming a bit too much, try a sobering coffee and the café’s absorbent and delicious honey cake.

Gaumarjos!

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Landing on the island has very fond memories for me, always in the blistering heat of summer, hitting 40°C (104°F), even through the night. Walking along the seafront taverns in any town, you soon understand how the island’s culture is synonymous with its food and is the best way to explore the nation’s identity. Once you sit down, don’t expect to leave early, as that’s when Cypriot hospitality only just begins, taking you through a journey of influences from Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern history in its “meze” (numerous sharing plates), from the lemons, ubiquitous on the island, spices, fish, meats and sweet delights such as baklava and “glyko tou koutaliou” (fruit or vegetable preserves in syrup).

With four million visitors every year (pre pandemic), the island is a popular holiday tourist destination, famous for its white sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, long summers, pine and cedar forests nestled amongst the valleys of the Troodos Mountain range, ancient Greek artefacts (Aphrodite’s Island), and of course, Halloumi cheese.

However, maybe not as well-known, and quietly on the foothills of the Troodos Mountain range, a small transformation is happening to the island’s wineries. The Krasichoria (Greek for wine villages), have for centuries been making wine, importantly Commandaria, the world’s oldest named wine still in production. Despite this, today’s wineries are high tech, glitzy and well worth a visit if you fancy a couple of hours away from the beach.

Cyprus has seven official wine routes, all focused around or on the foothills of the dominating Troodos Mountain range in the centre of the island. These wine routes represent the 7 official appellations of the island, and can be followed from start to finish, getting a real flavour of each. Being based in either Paphos or Limassol allows you to get the best of both worlds, with luxurious beachside accommodation in the cities, allowing you to drive up to the wine region within 30 minutes or so. If you do decide to dig deeper though, staying within the villages of the Krasochoria within the Troodos mountain range will allow you to explore the cute and quaint villages that have for centuries been making wine, and importantly will prove to be a wise decision once you realise the cooler it gets at altitude, providing an almost natural form of air conditioning.

The pretty village of Omodos with it’s cobbled-stoned square and monastery is a great place to be based, located in the centre of the Limassol wine route, being very close to the Commandaria wine area and the 14 permitted grape-growing villages. You can wander around its wine shops and cafes, cute alleyways, but it’s almost impossible not to be reminded of the traditional wineries in the village, with their large amphoras present, laying there, a remnant of the traditions, not to be forgotten.

Within walking distance of Omodos (driving recommended), is Oenou-Yi Ktima Vassiliades winery, an impressive modern winery with an indoor pool, built recently (2017) by lawyer Christodoulos Vassiliades. Upon entering, there’s a scenic restaurant, terrace and vista overlooking the un-grafted vines just in front. Their wines are a mix of indigenous and international varieties, but what you must try without fail, is their Commandaria, which they in the hospitable Cypriot way, will force down you. Impressively, this winery grows all of its own fruit, owning 250ha, the largest on the island, with an aim to increase their indigenous grape variety offerings in the future. The restaurant (open Fri-Sun) is excellent, and well worth visiting too, if looking for something a bit different from the typical Cypriot fare.

On the other side of the Afamis valley, and a 20-minute drive away, is the winery of Vlassides. You may easily take a short detour to visit the medieval bridge of Milia before arriving here, but prepare to feel the juxtaposition after passing through the vines to reach the uber modern winery, which was chosen to represent the country for The EU award in contemporary architecture.

Heading further up the mountains, what awaits you, driving through this magical terrain of pine forests and honey hives, is Tsiakkas winery. Modern too, with a tasting view outside, overlooking the impeding valley of vines. The winery is slick, and experimental, built by Costas Tsiakkas in 1988, and lead by Oenologists Orestis Tsiakkas and Kostas Ntanos. They even make an orange wine, but have a great range of Indigenous and International varieties.

At the top in Pitsilia, is Kyperounda, the highest winery in Europe at 1400m high. The winery is gravity fed, and well worth a tour to see the different stages occurring from top to bottom. Tastings are available, and the Petritis white is well-noted amongst Decanter reviewers, but their international varieties are worth enjoying too.

A 40 minutes drive away, but worth a visit, is Santa Irene, located in the Farmakas village. Here, temperatures can reach -10C in the winter, but is set up well for visits, with a large restaurant serving excellent food, and what they also offer is a vine safari, which takes you through their 150-year-old treasure trove of vines. Prepare to be awed, either by the vines, or the passion in which Evangelos Bakalexis, head winemaker, talks you through it all.

On the other side of the island, 30 minutes’ drive from Paphos, is a winery that must be mentioned, more so for their sole aim in reviving the ancient rare grape varieties of Morokanella, Promara, Yiannoudi, Maratheftiko, Spourtiko and Vasilissa. Vouni Panayia in the Paphos wine region, can be visited everyday from 0900-1600, but like all these wineries, it’s best to call ahead.

It’s worth visiting Cyprus all year round, but generally March-May and September to November will be slightly cooler, but still beautifully sunny. Avoid the rain and cold in December through to February. The best places to stay would be in either the cities of Paphos or Limassol, where there’s a great range of accommodation and restaurants, and you’re only a 30 minutes’ drive away from the mountains and wineries. It is possible to be closer to the action, however, and Pedoula, Kakopetria and Omodos have great amenities, allowing you to dig deeper into the mountains with walking trails along waterfalls and ancient ruins worth exploring.

The Limassol Wine festival has been traditionally held from the end of August up until the first week of September. In 2021 it was held from the 8th till the 17th of October.

My perfect day in Cyprus

Morning

I think you have to wake up by the sea whilst in Cyprus, around Paphos, with the Almyra hotel or Elysium providing great sea views. You’re in walking distance from the Tomb of the Kings and the Nea of Paphos. Archaeological sites which take you back to the island’s ancient history and civilization. Go before midday, when it will be simply unbearable in the sun.

Then it’s time for the wineries, heading towards the Troodos Mountains. The wineries are at most, a 30-minute drive away, and you notice the altitude increasing quite suddenly, with temperatures becoming far more bearable.

I’d start by visiting the Fikardos winery, which is a natural stop on your way to the top. After that, I’d head to the village of Pano Panayia, to visit Vouni Panayia’s winery. You’ll be greeted by Petros, one of Andrea’s three sons, the founder, who’ll take you through a tour of the winery and show you the indigenous varietal wines. There is a restaurant too, which would make a perfect place to stop for lunch, serving local Cypriot delicacies, but a reservation is needed.

Afternoon

From here, you have the perfect building blocks to drive into the Paphos forest, towards the most unique of valleys. The cedar valley, where you will be awed by these ancient, majestic trees nestled amongst the pine forest. You may hike some of the trails, which will get you ready for a dinner meze, smelling the wild thyme and oregano amongst the vegetation, but this is also an opportunity to see the Mouflon’s of Cyprus (Stavros tis Psokas), a wild sheep, endemic to the island and its largest mammal.

Evening

Your route back towards Paphos allows you to certainly fit in another winery, such as Kolios (+357 26 724090), but it’s worth heading back for a swim, or to simply catch the mesmerising sunset on Coral Bay beach, just outside the city of Paphos. Dinner can be at Vasileon 31 (+357 99 345086), which offers laid-back home cooked dishes, but if you fancy meze, then the only address is St Georges Tavern (+357 99 655824), with organic wine and a focus on seasonality.

My Cyprus address book: Where to stay, eat and shop

Hotels

Four Seasons Hotel, Limassol

One of the most luxurious hotels on the island, right by the beach. This is the perfect place to relax by the pool, or beach, and enjoy some of the finest dining on the island by Michelin star awarded chef Mavrommatis.

The Mill Hotel and Spa, Kakopetria

A great place to be if exploring the wineries around the Troodos Mountains, Kakopetria is a tourist destination in its own right, and this 17th Century mill is right on the river where old Kakopetria village starts. The water feature and valley are right opposite, offering beautiful views of the mountains.

Amara Hotel, Limassol

High-end rooms, dining, and a beach front location. This is the new kid on the block, making waves and really pushing quality to a level never seen on the island before.

The Elysium Hotel and Spa, Paphos

Elysium, meaning paradise in the afterlife in Greek Mythology, is exactly what this place is. A paradise in its amenities, beach front location, numerous pools. It’s impossible not to relax here. You are also in walking distance to the Tomb of the Kings archaeological site.

Oenou-Yi Cottages, Omodos

bookings@oenouyi.wine

These cottages are scattered all around the village of Omodos, whether you need just one beautifully designed room amongst lemon trees, or a large house opposite the famous Timios Stavros monastery, the choice is yours. All rooms come with complimentary wine from Oenou-Yi, as well as homemade plum jam, local honey, and baked cookies from George’s bakery.

Restaurants

Zephyros, Larnaca

+357 24 657198

There is possibly no better place in Cyprus to experience fish meze. This is an institution, serving locals and tourists for generations. If you are based on the other side of the island, it is really worth the trip. Try and find a Cypriot that does not know this place. An excellent Cypriot wine list too.

Old Zygi, Zygi

+357 24 332424

Zygi is a fishing village, famed for its fish meze restaurants. You are spoilt for choice here, having frequented these as a child. Quality is always high, and a fish meze is what to go for once again. Old Zygi has a slightly modern take on meze, serving a delicious seafood pasta.

Katoi, Omodos

An excellent choice when exploring the wine villages around Omodos. They offer all the classics, fish, meat, but a villagers favourite too of “Trahana”. A wheat yogurt soup with halloumi. A must try when on the island.

Ariadne Tavern, Vasa

+357 25 944064

Cypriot cuisine at its finest – village style. Get the meat meze, you will not be disappointed. Fresh, local cuisine designed to give you a bit of everything Cyprus has from keftedes to souvla to olives to tahini. A recommended stop if around the wine villages, 30 minutes from Limassol.

Things to do

Kourion

A must see is the Kourion archaeological site with the Greco-Roman theatre as it’s showcase, with superb views of the sea. Concerts and theatre performances are still held here.

Cyprus Wine Museum near Limassol.

You’re taken through a journey of 5 centuries of Cypriot wine, through phylloxera free vineyards, to the history of Commandaria. There is also the opportunity to taste some great examples, and buy a bottle or two.

Wine Shops

Punin Wine

Located in Limassol, they have an excellent selection of wines from Cyprus with some top producers, however, also have a great international selection with classics from Burgundy to Champagne.

How to get to Cyprus

The two major airports are Larnaca (105km) and Paphos (50km). The nearest major city is Limassol (30 mins by car) and Paphos (40 mins by car).

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Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, located south of Turkey and west of Syria, Lebanon and Israel. It has a rich history in winemaking which dates back over 5,500 years.

The vines and winemaking areas are scattered around the foothills of the Troodos mountains in the centre of the island, with the seven Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) areas. These vineyards reach a peak of 1,520m above sea level.

Both a Mediterranean climate, providing long hot summers, and a desert wind from the Sahara influence the viticulture and winemaking. Water is scarce and vineyards are often terraced; sometimes the vineyards are trellised and irrigated, but many are made up of old bush vines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 17 wines from Cyprus

The island itself is phylloxera-free and lays claim to the oldest named wine still in production: Commandaria.

What is Commandaria?

Commandaria was the product of the Knights of St John during the Crusades, but was also known centuries before, as far back as 800BC, as Nama.

A dessert wine made from partially raisined grapes, it must come from the vineyards surrounding the 14 permitted villages of the Commandaria PDO, north of Limassol city. Here the soil profile is volcanic, as opposed to the high proportion of calcium carbonate elsewhere on the island.

It may or may not be fortified, and must use the endemic Mavro and Xynisteri grapes. Ageing requirements state that this wine must be matured in oak casks for a minimum of two years.

Cyprus wine regions:

PDO wine regions:

• Commandaria
• Krasochoria Lemesou
• Krasochoria Lemesou-Afamis
• Krasochoria Lemesou-Laona
• Pitsilia
• Laona Akamas
• Vouni Panagias-Ampelitis

PGI wine regions:

• Larnaka
• Lemesos
• Lefkosia
• Pafos

The evolution of Cypriot wine production: from ancient beverage to quality product

Quality wine production has only taken hold in Cyprus in the past 30 years. Prior to that, production was dominated by bulk wines from the four largest companies: Etko, Keo, Loel and Sodap.

As with many emerging wine regions attempting to attract an international market, international grape varieties have found a place on the island.

Minas Mina, winemaker at Kyperounda Winery, grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Syrah, just like many other wineries on the island. These wines are popular domestically to both locals and tourists.

It is Mina’s white wine made from Xynisteri, called Petritis, though, that has attracted the most attention, being full of citrus fruit flavours and mouth-watering acidity.

Mina believes ‘more research is needed in regard to the other indigenous varieties’, such as Mavro, Maratheftiko and Yiannoudi. The interest for further research is there, perhaps because the latter two are unlike any vines elsewhere in the world due to their inability to self-pollinate.

Key challenges and how they are overcome

One trend that has emerged over the last 20 years is using altitude to combat the extreme heat of the island. Kyperounda, the highest winery in Europe at 1,200m in the Pitsilia PDO region, uses fruit from an average height of 1,400m, but has some vineyards reaching 1,520m.

‘Cyprus has a summer that lasts 10 months, and therefore we don’t have a problem with the fruit ripening, it’s maintaining acidity which is desired,’ said Mina, which is why elevation is used to achieve freshness.

Tsiakkas is another winery in the Pitsilia region that’s planting vineyards at high elevations, at 1,460m, harvesting late into October, experimenting with both international and indigenous varieties at these heights.

Old over new

But it is chiefly indigenous varieties that are the new wave of untapped potential to Cypriot winemakers.

Evangelos Bakalexis, from Santa Irene Winery, firmly believes this, focusing his production on only Mavro and Xynisteri. Located in Farmakas, on the eastern side of the Troodos Mountain range where in most vintages temperatures can fall well below -10°C in the winter months and the unbearable heat of the summer hits 40°C, rainfall is a rarity. Despite these extremes, Bakalexis has 150-year-old, dry-farmed bush vines that not only survive, but flourish.

Vouni Panayia was instrumental in pushing the focus back onto indigenous varieties, having done so since 1987.

Winemaker Yiannis Kyriakidis believes ‘these varieties are very well adapted to the soil and the hot and dry climatic conditions of Cyprus, which allows for sustainable practices. These ancient grapes are a cultural wealth for Cyprus, and for young vignerons.’

Irina Nemeth, UK sales director of Cava Spiliadis, represents Vouni Panayia in the UK and US and has noticed increased hunger among wine lovers for the wines of this island.

‘The island has an incredible terroir and climate for great winemaking. The fact that they focus on indigenous grapes just adds extra points to the offering’ she said.

‘Whites are fresh, floral and complex, whilst the reds are fruity and ripe. They offer great value for money too, being between £15-£40 and incomparable among other wines. From our current offering, we’re seeing huge popularity in the Xynisteri, Morokanella and Maratheftiko wines.’

Quantities are, as expected, limited, but well worth seeking out.

Wines of Cyprus: key facts

Area under vine: 7478ha

Number of wineries: 116 independent wineries and one cooperative

Age of plantings: 433ha of 35-49-year-old vines; 582ha of 50-65-year-old vines

Annual production: 88,873 hl (2020-2021)

Indigenous grape varieties: Mavro 2,951ha, Xynisteri 2,091ha, Maratheftiko 168ha, Ofthalmo 72ha, Yiannoudi 29ha, Promara 25ha, Morokanella 15ha, Spourtiko 12ha, Vasilissa 9.7ha, Kanella 1.6ha

International grape varieties: Syrah 329ha, Mourvèdre 234ha, Carignan 172ha, Cabernet Sauvignon 145ha, Cabernet Franc 104ha, Grenache 79ha, Merlot 53ha

Export markets: A total of 5,300hl are exported, mainly to China, Kenya, Estonia, Finland, UK, and USA (2021)

See tasting notes and scores for 17 wines from Cyprus:

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A self-taught winemaker and one of the world’s most sought-after consultants, Stéphane Derenoncourt has built his reputation by shaping the wines of more than 140 clients in Bordeaux, the Rhône and Loire, as well as Spain, Italy, Greece, Austria, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey and the US. With his wife Christine, he runs Derenoncourt Consultants and owns Domaine de l’A in Côtes de Castillon and Derenoncourt California in Napa.

You arrived in Bordeaux aged 18, by hitchhiking – that’s pretty unusual…

I grew up in northern France and I decided very early on to change my life. I had no idea what I wanted to do but the job centre said I could go to Bordeaux to pick grapes, so I thought ‘why not?’ – I sold everything I had, went to start the harvest, and ended up staying.

How did you find your first job?

I didn’t have a diploma, so my only option was to work in the vineyards. Then a government initiative to find young people work by reducing the tax employers had to pay gave me a chance. Paul Barre in Fronsac became my first real boss. My first experience of winemaking, in 1985, was a revelation.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

I have travelled a lot but I’m always excited to see different projects and experience new cultures. Also, I love blending because it’s full of creativity.

Is there one project that stands out?

For the moment my love story is in Greece on the island of Tinos, where I make the wines for Clos Stegasta. It’s a strange and special place for me, full of energy, and I love to be there. Every vintage is a challenge, because of the wind conditions and lack of water – every grape you harvest is like a victory!

Any mistakes or regrets?

Maybe my first foray into winemaking in Spain, in 2003. I wasn’t happy with the results – I felt I had made something close to Bordeaux in Spain which was ridiculous. That’s why now, I always try to understand more about a place, its culture, its gastronomy. I had to become a bit Spanish before making the wine.

What challenges do you face?

Climate change. We need to first adapt the management of the soil and the canopy of the vineyard before we think about new varieties. In Bordeaux, for example, they now allow grapes from Portugal – for me it’s a mistake, as we will lose centuries of tradition.

What is the most common misconception about your job?

People think that I only work in the cellar, whereas I am almost always in the vineyard. Like with a chef, I need to know the products I have to work with. Winemaking is easy; what’s difficult is picking very good grapes with good ripeness, density, acidity and balance.

What wines do you like to drink?

I love wines coming from limestone, so those from St-Emilion, from Burgundy and from Barolo. Limestone gives you flowers, spice, elegance – a little more femininity. I love it.

What would you choose to drink today?

A Right Bank Bordeaux wine from 1998, my favourite vintage of the last century. It was a perfect year – very ripe and fresh, and great for the long term.

What advice would you give someone who wants to follow in your footsteps?

Have passion, a sense of observation, and be ready to work hard. I wake up every morning raring to go because I have the passion. Being a consultant is a special job – you have to be strong but also sensitive, to listen to your clients, and a project manager. But first is the passion and also, maybe, in French we say audace – to have a daring spirit.

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As the white wine harvest comes to a close in Greece, winemakers have had to sweat not only from the heatwaves but also from stressful selections and low yields due to uneven ripening.

After a more regular harvest in 2020, growers this year on Santorini, famous for Assyrtiko, reported no rain since April, with record breaking heat.

‘The last such heatwave was in 1987,’ says Elina Dakanali of Estate Argyros. With ambient temperatures reaching the mid-40s, yields were down ‘almost half’ compared to a normal year. ‘We saw how the heat blocked development and even burned some grapes,’ adds Dakanali.

Grape sorting

Careful grape sorting proved essential given irregular ripening. ‘The imbalance and unevenness of ripening was noticed, not only in the same vineyard, but also in single bunches,’ says oenologist Nikos Varvarigos of the island cooperative Santo Wines.

The lack of summer wind, which normally buffers heat, accentuated high temperatures in late July and into August, with nights not cooling down enough. Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, founder of Gaia Wines, reports that yields are down 40% from average.

After careful sorting, Paraskevopoulos says that vigilant winemaking is required this year. ‘We saw grapes either burned, over-ripe or under-ripe, some quite thick skinned without much juice, so we need to be careful with fermentations,’ he says.

Decanter contributor and wine judge Yiannis Karakasis MW, who this year published the book The Wines of Santorini, has dubbed 2021 the ‘year of the oenologist’ because of the demanding work needed for selection and winemaking. ‘We see lower than usual acidities and higher pH readings,’ he says.

Realistic pricing

A silver lining is that growers did not raise grape prices this year as they have done almost annually, which has made Santorini wines relatively expensive. ‘I think they [growers] finally understood the need to be realistic,’ says Paraskevopoulos, as prices per kilo settled at around €3.50. Varvarigos of the Santo Wines cooperative stressed that prices should not exceed that price because overall grape quality was ‘not good’.

As fires continue on the Greek island of Evia, where according to recent news reports over 2,000 people have been evacuated, winemakers throughout Greece also fear the on-going effect of climate change. As well as the summer heat many island vineyards suffered from May hail, which reduced volumes.

In Argolida on the Peloponnese mainland winemaker George Skouras says 2021 has been a tough year, starting with spring frosts in addition to extreme summer heat. ‘We have had almost nothing,’ he says of his vineyards of Chardonnay and Viognier. ‘Many vines stopped maturation due to heat stress.’

Red harvest looks promising

2021 may prove more promising for red grapes, however. In Nemea, for example, Skouras believes it could be a great vintage for Agiorgitiko where the ‘small and thin-skinned grapes have lots of colour and concentration.’

The red wine harvest is expected to begin in early September.

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Despite a warm climate, Greece is able to produce fresh, expressive white wines, in part, by taking advantage of cooling influences from the sea (as in Santorini), or exploiting cool microclimates inland. Platinum medal winner Ktima Biblia Chora typifies this, having found the perfect spot for an organic vineyard on the slopes of Mount Pangeon in Macedonia.

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Scroll down to view Greece’s top-scoring dry white wines

This ability to retain freshness and precision was evident at the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards, where mouth-watering acidity, minerality and a very long finish are recurring descriptors for Greece’s top-scoring white wines. While the Assyrtiko grape largely dominates the list, blends with indigenous varieties including Malagousia and Kydonitsa, varietal Vidiano and Viognier also grabbed the judges’ attention.

The Best in Show

Estate Argyros, Cuvée Evdemon, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

£42.28 Lay & Wheeler

The 2020 edition of our competition was great for wines from some of Europe’s key locations, one of which was Santorini: our judges spent a long time tussling over an outstanding range of Gold and Platinum winners from this extraordinary island. In the end, this grand and now mature wine was the one that triumphed. Of course, it showcases the pungent aromas and intense lemony flavours of the Assyrtiko variety, but in its faintly salty flavours and the striking balance between freshness and what can only be described as a succulent, almost oily ‘mineral’ richness, it takes the island’s winemaking to new heights. Alcohol 14%

Santorini sits on an active volcano, with extremely young and infertile soils, with almost no potassium or clay. ‘This last characteristic makes Santorini not just phylloxera-free but phylloxera-immune, meaning that the bug will never invade the island,’ says Matthew Argyros, owner of Estate Argyros. ‘Cuvée Evdemon is flirting with the boundaries of our understanding of the Santorini environment,’ he says. The grapes come from an Assyrtiko vineyard that is at least 150 years old, is farmed biodynamically and delivers extremely low yields. The wine, aged for about 30 months in stainless steel, with one quarter of the blend spending 12 months in French oak barriques, ‘focuses on palate structure’, Argyros explains. ‘It needs several years in the bottle to open up and will reward cellaring for up to 15 years.’

Santorini

Estate Argyros, Cuvée Monsignori 2018

Platinum, 97 points

£37.95 Philgas & Swiggot

Expressive wild rose, melon and floral aromatics. Lovely balance of citrussy flavours, delivering very well now with oregano and green tea nuances. Amazing precision and length. Alc 14%

Volcanic Slopes Vineyards, Pure 2017

Platinum, 97 points

POA Clark Foyster

Expressive nose displaying intense volcanic minerality, lemon balm and sea breeze. Fresh, juicy and steely palate with precise fresh lemon, salty minerality and wonderful texture. Alc 14%

Gavalas 2019

Gold, 96 points

£30-£31.49 Borders Wines, Corelli Wine, Kudos Wines

Honeysuckle and green apple bouquet. Showcasing place and variety brilliantly, this is mineral on the palate with crisp acidity, nice purity, focus and a touch of stone fruit. Shellfish please. Alc 13.5%

Venetsanos 2018

Gold, 96 points

£34.50 Cava Spiliadis

Gorgeous preserved lemon, lemon balm and sea breeze bouquet. The palate has tension and salinity, positively quivering with freshness. Layered and complex with a long finish. Alc 13%

Boutari, Assyrtiko 2019

Gold, 95 points

£16.99 Aspris & Son

Refined floral, pear and peach bouquet. Crisp and clean palate with wonderful purity, salinity, freshness and brisk acidity. The long, mouthwatering finish leaves the mouth squeaky clean. Alc 13%

Santo Wines, Nykteri 2018

Gold, 95 points

£23.50 Maltby & Greek

Gorgeous lemon balm, beeswax and seaweed bouquet. Concentrated and complex in the mouth with laser-like acidity cutting through the creamy, textured mid-palate. Alc 14%

Artemis Karamolegos, Pyritis Mega Cuvée 2018

Silver, 94 points

£49 Amathus Drinks

Delicately floral with grapefruit rind, seaweed and beeswax nuances. Precise on the palate with mouthwatering acidity and plenty of citrus fruit. Alc 14.3%

Gavalas, Natural Ferment 2019

Silver, 94 points

£34 Corelli Wine, Kudos Wines

Volcanic and flinty nose. It’s juicy and fresh in the mouth with citrussy acidity and a mid-palate that’s creamy and leesy. This wine has a gorgeous chalky texture. Alc 13.5%

Tselepos-Canava Chrissou, Nykteri 2018

Silver, 94 points

N/A UK www.tselepos.gr

Smoky, lemon balm and cardamom scents. Juicy palate with brisk acidity, a core of kumquat, lemons and a very long finish. Alc 14.5%

Venetsanos, Nykteri 2018

Silver, 94 points

£39 Cava Spiliadis

Lemon, apricot kernel and Mirabelle plum nose. Concentrated and linear on the palate with very precise, mouthpuckering acidity and fantastic chalky texture. A herbal finish. Alc 14%

Macedonia

Ktima Biblia Chora, Ovilos, Pangeon 2019

Platinum, 97 points

£25.95-£31.40 Available at independent merchants via Hallgarten Wines

Expressive beeswax and lemon blossom. Complex palate of citrus fruits, mango and kumquat. Will get even better. Alc 13.5%

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi 2019

Gold, 96 points

£16-£17.49 Available at independent merchants via Hallgarten Wines

The nose shows smoky minerality and floral, spicy and lemon blossom notes. Crisp palate with a fantastic salty tang and creamy texture. Alc 13.5%

Ktima Dyo Ipsi, Dialogos Kydonitsa-Assyrtiko, Peloponnese 2019

Gold, 96 points

N/A UK www.bibliachora.gr

Beautiful, breezy citrus blossom and quince bouquet. Sappy fruit on the palate, with a savoury salty edge, followed by a lemon peel finish. Alc 14%

Oenops, Vidiano, Crete 2018

Gold, 96 points

POA Clark Foyster

Focused and distinguished roasted nut, peach, honey and vanilla scents. Exuberant, fleshy fruit in the mouth, finishing long. A textbook expression, very classy indeed. Alc 13%

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Viognier, Epanomi 2018

Gold, 95 points

£17-£22 Available at independent merchants via Hallgarten Wines

Alluring honeysuckle, peach and nutmeg bouquet. The palate is round and rich but the ripe peach and spiced pear fruit is balanced by refreshing acidity. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2020 results

Decanter World Wine Awards home

Results for the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 will be announced on Decanter.com this 7 July

Lisa Ellerton, by email, asks: What’s the best wine match for bouillabaisse?

Fiona Beckett, is a contributing editor to Decanter, also publishing at www.matchingfoodandwine.com, replies: Bouillabaisse is one of those dishes that provokes heated discussions over what is – or is not – an authentic version, so what hope is there of finding a definitive wine match? More of a Mediterranean fish stew than a soup, it includes many different kinds of fish and shellfish and is served with a punchy, garlic-laced rouille.

Given that it originates in Marseilles, as we’re in Provence, we’re talking rosé. Bandol would be my appellation of choice for the best rosé, being stronger-flavoured and more savoury than many Côtes de Provence options.

However, in Domaine Tempier’s cookbook, Lulu’s Provençal Table , Richard Olney recalls serving a chilled young red Tempier with great success. Matthieu Longuère MS suggests a Fleurie with fish and seafood stew, in his guide to pairing fish with red wine, as ‘Gamay possesses a lovely freshness’ and it’s acidity will also marry well with a tomato base. 

You could also drink white from that part of the world, ideally the delicious AP Cassis or a Rolle.

White Rhône varieties such as Marsanne and Roussanne also work well, although maybe not the more headily aromatic Viognier, unless in a blend. I came across an organic Roussanne the other day (Calmel & Joseph’s Le Penchant: the 2019 is £16.95 at South Downs Cellars), which recommended bouillabaisse on the back label!

This was first published in the May 2021 issue of Decanter magazine.

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Lockdown has produced few benefits for businesses apart from those that can be conducted by Zoom or ordered online but it has been a nightmare for the winemakers of Santorini.

Because they are expensive to produce, Santorini’s mineral-rich wines are primarily exported for restaurant lists in Europe and the US.

In 2020 those exports plummeted by 80%, reflecting a particularly tough period for the hospitality trade in general amid the Covid crisis.

Santorini is a semi-desert island and its grapes are wound into kouloura (baskets) on the ground for protection from the elements. With mechanised harvesting of kouloura impossible, picking the grapes is both back-breaking and expensive.

So you will find comparatively few Santorini wines in supermarkets – even on Santorini.

Most bottles are bought by restaurants in Greece and the wider world, where a high price is factored in. But most restaurants have hardly been open in 2020 and so almost no one has been buying.

Venetsanos, a winery perched dramatically on a cliff above Santorini’s main harbour, has seen its sales collapse to 4% of what they were in 2019, from 14,208 bottles exported per year down to a mere 558 in 2020.

Petros Vamvakousis, manager of Venetsanos, said, ‘This is a total disaster and it has happened to all wine makers on the island.’

There is an acute irony here. Up until 2020, Santorini’s wine industry had a very different problem: not enough vineyards to meet demand.

Winemakers had just begun replanting the nearby island of Thirasia (part of Santorini until the great eruption of 1650 BC), which counts as Santorini PDO terroir so that levels of production could be increased to meet demand. Now the wine industry on Santorini has the opposite problem: overproduction.

Gaia, a mainland company which also operates an idyllic beachside winery on Santorini, registered a 56% drop in island exports between 2019 and 2020.

Co-founder Yiannis Paraskevopoulos is well-placed to see how the cost of harvesting by hand has been a big factor in driving Santorini wine into restaurants, because Gaia’s winery on the mainland in Nemea grows grapes on trellises rather than kouloura.

‘If we focus on the 2019 prices, the price of harvesting Santorini Assyrtiko was close to €5 per kilo whereas our Nemea Agiorgitiko was roughly 10 times less, 50 cents per kilo,’ he said. ‘Even the most expensive wine grapes on the mainland never exceeded €1 per kilo.’

Failure to sell to the many closed restaurants in Europe and America means that Santorini’s wineries are approaching the 2021 harvest with unusually high stocks left over from the 2020 harvest.

‘And given a relatively high yield on the island these days, grape prices are expected to plunge dramatically,’ said Paraskevopoulos.

‘This may have a very negative impact on old or small vine-growers. They may even abandon their vines, since they will consider that it is not economically sustainable carrying on. A very grim perspective.’

Ironically, wine production on Santorini was deliberately encouraged by Athens and the EU in the 1990s as an alternative to fall back on if lucrative tourism ever failed.

Tourism on Santorini has been its main source of income for decades and it was hoped that promoting Santorini’s vineyards would make sure the island didn’t plough up every field for hotels. So a highly successful wine industry was developed – only for both this and tourism to be laid low by the worldwide lockdown of 2020.

The Wine Museum, an ancient venture by the Koutsoyannopoulos family, saw 70% fewer visitors than normal during lockdown.

Glass half full: Reasons for optimism

Not everything is gloom. Yannis Valambous, who set up the chic Vassaltis Vineyard in 2015, said 2020 has been a strange year for everyone on Santorini.

‘With restaurants closed for the best part of the year and tourism drastically reduced, our main markets have all but disappeared, but that is not say that everything has been bad.

‘For one thing, we were able to give our few visitors in 2020 a more unique experience. The staff at Vassaltis felt that those who made the trip to our winery were more genuinely interested in wine, unlike the large coach parties that used to be off-loaded from cruise ships,’ he said.

‘Secondly, the whole industry on Santorini has been able to get a breather, to catch up with a demand that has skyrocketed over the past decade. We were able to replenish our stocks and create better wines by using the luxury of time, something we didn’t have during the past years.’

Markos Kafouros, president of the Santo Wines Cooperative, added. ‘Yes sales have dropped dramatically. There is uncertainty about the future, but optimism too that vaccinations will shield us from the virus and help the market to recover.

‘Santo Wines works with 100 smaller producers on the island. Because of last year’s excellent harvest and because of lockdown our stock of wines is unusually high. Fortunately, Santorini wines age very well. The critical point now is how soon we will be able to return to “normality”.’

Santorini has endured many disasters. It was formed by a cataclysmic volcanic eruption that blew the island into picturesque pieces in Neolithic times. In the 1950s its industries were devastated by earthquakes so it turned to tourism and became the defining image of the Greek tourist board.

Now its wine industry is under threat from a year of lockdowns but it’s likely to survive. Santorini always does.

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There is so much more to Spain’s red grape varieties than Tempranillo. Mencía, for instance, that crunchy, refreshing variety of the northwest. Garnacha, too, which has been brought back in from the cold winds of disapproval and is turning up all over, but especially in the Sierra de Gredos and the north.

Scroll down to see Sarah Jane’s must-try wines from 10 star Mediterranean producers

Mediterranean Spain also has a cornucopia of reds – and whites. Yet these are still to achieve the recognition of those first three.

The best known is Monastrell, yet it is still widely regarded as a country cousin, despite making some exceptional wines. Dig beneath Monastrell, and you will find Arcos, Bobal, Bonicaire, Forcallà, Giró and more.

Change is in the air. There’s a dynamic movement to rejuvenate abandoned vineyards and return to local varieties. Importantly, there is an impressive cohort of growers and winemakers driving change. They have roots in wine – practically all the producers are from wine-growing families. What’s different is that they have started up new projects: some of the bodegas featured here are less than 10 years old.

Love for the local

We are at a significant moment for these Mediterranean wines, with local people working on local varieties, benefiting from their knowledge of terroir and traditions. It was not easy to narrow the list down to my top 10 producers (and, indeed, the presence of a father/daughter pairing means that there are actually 11 wines).

These producers work in Alicante, Valencia, Jumilla and Manchuela, although not all of them choose to belong to their local DOs. The significant omission in the region is Utiel- Requena, which has some very fine Bobal producers who just missed out. They would have made a top 20, as would Juan Gil, an established name in Jumilla – and Julia Casado of La del Terreno in Murcia, Altolandon in Manchuela, and Bodega Los Frailes, Valencian neighbour to Celler del Roure, would also certainly have joined the list.

What unites these producers is their enthusiasm and creativity. They don’t feel the need to follow the particular style of wine of their denomination. Each prefers to reflect their soil and climate. They aren’t afraid to work with apparently unknown and unpopular varieties.

Is there a Mediterranean wine style here? Are the wines linked by a philosophy? I would say yes. There’s another factor that unites the producers as people, as Pepe Mendoza points out: ‘Don’t forget that those of us by the Mediterranean are traders: we always have an eye to doing business with our neighbours and the outside world.

Pepe Mendoza, Casa Agrícola, Alicante

Pepe Mendoza appears as the smiling godfather in the Mediterranean wine world – ready to recommend wines, winemakers and places to eat, and to make connections. He undoubtedly has the liveliest Instagram presence among the producers in these pages, with highlights of life in the vineyard. Oh – and he is a dachshund owner, too. What more could one want?

Casa Agrícola is new, launched in 2016. Yet his experience in Alicante is long and deep, formerly working for his family’s business, Bodegas Enrique Mendoza. ‘It was after a trip to Georgia with [winemaker] Rafa Bernabé. My heart changed when I saw the simplicity of the winemaking. After spending 25 years trying to make a normal Chardonnay, I also realised the best wines were from indigenous grapes. You need to express the soil of Alicante, to see the pine, thyme and rosemary.’

Now he focuses on Monastrell and Giró. Moscatel, too. The winery buildings were formerly used for sun-drying Moscatel for raisins, once the industry in these parts. Today he’s interested in using the grapes for dry wines, made in amphorae: ‘Moscatel flourishes with skin contact. It has its bitter amargitos aspect, but people try to mask that with sugar.’

He also makes small releases of experimental wines. His response to these trials is typical of the man – there are never any mistakes: ‘Either you get it right and succeed, or you don’t, in which case you learn. Either way, you don’t lose.’

Les Freses, Alicante

Mara Bañó’s winery is just round the corner from the Mediterranean hotspot of Dénia, and her vineyards are surely prime building land. Fortunately, the estate is located in Montgó natural park, named for the mountain that overlooks the vineyards.

In 2009, Bañó acquired 14ha, an abandoned property that had been a strawberry farm, hence the name ‘Les Freses’. ‘The person to blame is my friend Pablo Calatayud [from Celler del Roure]. He gave me the impetus and helped me with the first decisions to transform the estate into a vineyard. We planted local varieties.’ First up was Moscatel, of which she has a mix of clones on different rootstocks, and in the last three years, Forcallà – ‘which I adore’. Her reds also include Bobal, Forcallà, Garnacha, Giró, Monastrell and Montalvana.

She is particularly enthusiastic about her amphorae, returning to the original tradition of winemaking. They were made by Carles Llarch in Penedès using clay from Les Freses. The shape follows the design of 7th-century BC amphorae found in the region.

‘The good thing is that the lees settle very quickly. I don’t have to filter my Amfora wine, or stabilise, or use sulphites – you could call it “natural” with its tiny amount of SO2.’ Bañó’s first vintage was 300 bottles; she now makes a comfortable 30,000. She is only at the beginning and is one to watch.

Javier Revert, Valencia

I first met Revert at Celler del Roure a few years back. He was winemaker there for a decade. Since then he has moved on. The first step was not far – just a few hundred metres in altitude to a vineyard planted by his great-grandfather in 1948 on the Penya Foradà slopes.

Revert had been looking for parcels of old-vine white varieties, and his grandfather pointed it out one day in 2014. He searched for more vineyards, some on terraces as high as 900m, abandoned long ago. The mix of local varieties is fascinating: Arcos, Bonicaire, Monastrell, Tortosí, Trepadell, Verdil…

His wines are delicate and fresh but penetrating. His Arcos wine, Simeta, is the most ‘serious’ of his range, strikingly complex. Micalet is a glorious blend of the white varieties, while Sensal is a crisp village red blend including the ‘super-interesting’ Bonicaire.

Revert has recently joined Finca Sandoval in Manchuela as winemaker, on the recommendation of Garnacha guru Dani Landi. Sandoval, which was founded in 1998 by the journalist Victor de la Serna, has new majority owners. The results of Revert’s first vintages and blends are very promising. Recalling discussions about approaches to wine styles with Sandoval’s founder, Revert remarks: ‘In one sense, I’m with Victor: I prefer blends. The great Mediterranean wines are blends.’

Mustiguillo, Valencia

If Pepe Mendoza is the godfather of the Mediterranean constellation, then Toni Sarrión is its secretary-general, due to his impressive ability to cope with organisations. Mustiguillo had an unpromising beginning: after all, neither the Bobal variety nor the Requena sub-region were renowned.

His ambition led him to invest time, energy and money into creating his own denomination, a Vino de Pago – DOP Pago El Terrerazo. The Vino de Pago category is criticised for uneven quality, but the Terrerazo wines disprove that.

Sarrión works with Bobals and Garnachas, and whites from the local Merseguera variety, grafted over Bobal rootstocks. He admits: ‘When I started I had no idea about fine wine. Up until 2008, I was producing powerful, hyper- concentrated wine. Then I started to look at the soils. [Argentinian winemaker] Sebastián Zuccardi worked with came to visit. They both said, “You’ve got limestone”.’ More recently, he has had advice from soil specialist Pedro Parra. Undoubtedly, he listens; Sarrión keeps Mustiguillo moving – since 2014, he’s changed from full-on new oak to foudres.

Equally in Ribera del Duero in Spain’s northwest, his latest interest is in managing the winemaking at Hacienda Solano winery, and he’s also president of Grandes Pagos, the network of mainly family-owned producers promoting single-estate wines. As with the Vinos de Pago, these wines were uneven in quality, but he is recruiting new members, and the prospects are good.

Rafael Cambra, Valencia

Rafael Cambra’s family business is a leading vine nursery, supplying many of the top names in Spain. While his background was in vines and the vineyard, his inclination was towards winemaking, and he travelled to France to study. However, he remained committed to his roots in Valencia.

His home is Fontanars dels Alforins, a town of some 800 inhabitants an hour inland from Alicante. It’s an attractive Mediterranean landscape of mixed farming in the Serra de l’Ombria at 750m, with cereals, almonds, sunflowers and olives, and a long tradition of vine-growing.

Cambra set up his own project in 2001 with a vineyard of Monastrell, about 50 years old. He went on to plant Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, drawing on his French experience. More recently, he has been working with local varieties: Arcos, Bonicaire, Forcallà and Rojal. These local varieties are not simple novelties – his Forcallà vines, for instance, are 55 years old.

As a winemaker, he is particularly thoughtful and considered: experimenting, reining back on oak in his wines and introducing concrete eggs to the winery. His latest project is in Rioja, where his Mateo Cambra wine is made from higher-altitude Garnacha.

Casa Castillo, Jumilla

You feel the elevation at Casa Castillo, sitting at about 750m, isolated in a fairly barren landscape with the occasional castle in the distance. Yet the unpromising gravelly, limestone terrain produces exceptional Monastrell, plus Garnacha and a little Syrah.

Casa Castillo is particularly famous for its Pie Franco wine, grown on south-facing slopes, planted in 1942. This Monastrell is on its own rootstock, for the sandy soil has more or less protected the vines against phylloxera. José María Vicente’s grandfather purchased the property in 1941, 405ha in total, of which 170ha are under vine. The vineyard is surrounded by almond and olive trees, in addition to the typical Mediterranean pines and bushes. The estate had a winery which was built in 1870 by French refugees fleeing the phylloxera that was plaguing their vineyards.

Vicente started working with his father in 1985, and they finally released their first vintage in 1991. Since then, he has worked with a clarity of purpose with bush vines, fermentation in stone tanks, and ageing in large casks and foudres. There’s a lot of talk about terroir wines: these are the best in Jumilla, and among the stars of Spain. Says winemaker Javi Revert: ‘There’s a constant debate about how to balance a wine so that it can age well for 10 years. Casa Castillo and Ponce worked out how to do it from the beginning.’

Juan Antonio Ponce, Manchuela

Ponce’s family have been vine-growers in the region for generations. The difference is that, like so many of his peers, he was able to travel, and to place his vines and his winemaking in a greater context. Part of that travel included working in Spain with Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza, who were discovering and reviving old vineyards and local varieties across the country.

In his five years with them, he made wine in Rioja, Toro, Málaga, Alicante and Cigales. He also made time to learn about biodynamics in France. The result was that he returned home with two 5,000-litre wooden vats and a batch of 300-litre French oak barrels and set up his winery.

The vineyard? It’s Bobal. And the DO? Manchuela. Neither of these sounds likely to charm consumers, nor does Ponce have the kind of noisy personality to champion his wines. However, the finesse and subtlety of his winemaking has won many friends. He makes Bobal across the range, from the juicy Clos Lojen, to his PF (Pie Franco) made from 3.5ha of 60- to 85-year-old vines on sandy soils.

Recently, he has moved into white wine with a bottling called Reto, from the local Albilla grape. Manchuela may be out of the way, but Ponce has put it firmly on the map.

Fil.loxera y Cia, Valencia

2021 marks the 10-year anniversary of the founding of Fil.loxera y Cia, run by Pilar Esteve, her husband José Ramón Doménech and Joan Llobell. They recognised in Fontanars dels Alforins an exceptional environment with old vineyards at risk of being grubbed up.

Their La Mujer Caballo series – a reference to the wonder-women riders of 19th-century circuses – contains local varieties. These include the slow-ripening Arcos, once well known in Fontanars, Ullet de Perdiu and Valencí, which was popular for its dual use as a table grape. They found that this last variety greatly benefits from long skin macerations, hence the La Mujer Caballo Taronja, the orange wine, which also contains a little Moscatel and other varieties.

Fil.loxera y Cia’s wine names are as creative as their winemaking: ‘Sentada sobre la bestia’ (‘seated on the beast’) is taken from chapter 17 of the apocalyptic book of Revelation in the Bible.

Says Paul Grimwood, company director of Spanish food and wine importer Ultracomida in Wales: ‘The wines are all incredibly well put together, complex and well balanced and not the usual strand of Spanish wines. It takes a little time to explain a wine that isn’t the easy sell of Sauvignon Blanc or Shiraz, plus the region isn’t well known to the British market. However, if you can convince a customer to try the wine, they are inevitably hooked.’

Celler del Roure, Valencia

Celler del Roure is tucked away in the glorious southernmost part of Valencia, a golden countryside of masía farmhouses surrounded by their estates. Owners would make their own wines, traditionally using amphorae. What Pablo Calatayud and his father found when they purchased a 40ha estate there in 2006 was that they had also acquired an astonishing underground cellar with 100 amphorae buried up to their necks.

Over time, the vessels have been cleaned, given modern lids with seals and put back to work. The result – wines with exceptionally slow oxygen contact – is impressive. The amphorae don’t add flavour, but they keep freshness.

In addition, Celler del Roure has been reviving local varieties, particularly Mandó and Verdil. The Calatayuds have moved from varieties designed to appeal to an international market to something altogether more original, grafting local varieties such as these over the original Tempranillos and Merlots.

Over the years, Celler del Roure has made a steady transformation that is being repeated by producers in the Alforins region. This is what makes this small zone so exciting today. These Mediterranean wines are lighter in alcohol, lighter in body and, despite the southerly location, fresh.

Gutiérrez de la Vega & Curii Uvas y Vinos, Alicante

My first encounter with Felipe Gutiérrez de la Vega was in London via a glass of his Casta Diva, a Moscatel from Alicante – often derided as no more than a package holiday destination for Brits. Surely nothing good could result? How wrong I was! His touch is expert, and his influence extensive. Not just with sweet wines either, but table wines, and Alicante’s historic Monastrell-based Fondillón style. Although he works with Fondillón, legally he’s an outsider – he officially withdrew from the Alicante DO in 2010. A forthright person, maybe it’s not surprising that he chose to leave.

Felipe has since passed on the direction of the winery to his children, though he is still a presence there. Violeta Gutiérrez de la Vega – trained in France – runs the business with the assistance of her two siblings. She is quick to emphasise her father’s role in the region, recalling that ‘he was the first to bottle wine. Back then, it was all bulk wine’.

She also has a personal project, Curii Uvas y Vinos, with her partner Alberto Redrado, who’s qualified in viticulture and oenology. In his ‘other’ life, Redrado is the award-winning sommelier at the two-star Michelin restaurant L’Escaleta, where his cousin, Kiko Moya, is chef. (A favourite for wine lovers.)

Violeta and Redrado started Curii Uvas y Vinos in 2010 and have 3.5ha; they want to make wine for cellaring. Their aim is to celebrate local varieties such as Giró and Trepadell Blanc and to express a true Mediterranean character: ‘Our wines are lighter, more acid than has been typical in these parts,’ says Violeta.

Like Pepe Mendoza, they think that Giró is not Garnacha, and are involved in an ampelography study. Mendoza has said: ‘People think Giró is Garnacha, but Garnacha winemakers such as Fernando Mora have visited – they are clear it isn’t the same.’

The best Mediterranean wines: Sarah Jane’s must-try bottles

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The current travel restrictions mean that many of us will be pining for Greece this summer. Happily, more and more of its most exciting wines are finding their way into export markets, meaning that even if we can’t be there in person, we can explore and enjoy its native grapes in our own homes.

Of the myriad grape varieties that are grown in Greece, we will focus here on five: Malagousia, Moschofilero and Assyrtiko for white; and, in reds, Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko. Plus a quick look at Muscat of Samos (not an indigenous grape variety but a famous Greek wine style). The best expressions of these grapes are not always cheap, but the wines are invariably food friendly, and display an unmistakable sense of place. No identikit and inspid wines in the selection below!

Klearhos Kanellakis, head sommelier at Trivet in London, and Mary Pateras, director of UK importer Eclectic Wines, know all there is to know about Greek wine, and helped us put together this handy guide. Klearhos has provided suggested food pairings.

Malagousia

Klearhos says: ‘I often compare it to Viognier when suggesting it to diners – it’s aromatic, a bit oily and has the same florality, but more fruit. Depending on the ripeness of the grapes, you will find different styles: some are more Sauvignon Blanc-like, others reminiscent of Gewurztraminer. Some producers play with oak to add a bit of complexity; others blend Malagousia with Assyrtiko, with Malagousia giving the fruit and Assyrtiko the acidity and structure. It has less acidity than Moschofilero, and should be drunk relatively young.’

Mary says: ‘It was fairly unknown when we started importing Greek wine nearly 20 years ago, but by 2010 it had become mainstream, largely thanks to Gerovassiliou [a leading producer based near Thessaloniki]. Malagousia’s appeal lies in its approachability – you won’t find the austerity of Assyrtiko here, just lots of stone fruit.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: Seafood, smoked fish, paella with saffron flavouring, chicken salad with olive oil, honey and tangerine vinegar dressing. Serve at 12-14˚C.

Moschofilero

Klearhos says: ‘Another white to drink in its youth, this gastronomic white is often compared to a gentle Gewurztraminer. You find the same lychee, floral notes, but it’s more restrained, and with more peach and lime flavours. It’s the lightest of these white grape varieties, has modest alcohol and crisp acidity. You can age it for two or three years –it becomes more oily and the fruit and floral notes turn to dried versions of the same. It’s usually unoaked, though sometimes producers play with skin contact (it’s pink skinned) and / or lees ageing – this balances out the acidity to make it rounder. It’s found mainly in Greece’s Mantinia region.’

Mary says: ‘It’s like Gewurztraminer, but without the oiliness – aromatic, with rose petal and lychee. Its good acidity and low alcohol make it the perfect lunchtime wine. I love it with Thai and oriental dishes. In the same family you’ll find Mavrofilero, a clone of Moschofilero that has a darker skin.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: sushi, sashimi. Serve at 12˚C.

Assyrtiko

Klearhos says: ‘The Greek white most familiar to wine lovers outside Greece. It’s popular in the UK because the British palate likes mineral, high-acid wines (like Chablis and Sancerre). It’s a grape that has so much to give. In Santorini it has a special character, grown on volcanic soils with very low yields. Outside of Santorini – it’s grown across Greece – you’ll find more fruit (stone fruit, typically), and the minerality and salinity are less marked. I often compare it to premier or grand cru Chablis: mineral, with high acidity and fresh, green apple fruit (or in some versions, more tropical fruit). Some Assyrtiko is vinified in stainless steel with lees ageing; these can be quite closed in their youth, and densely structured – the best window for drinking would be at 4-6 years. Those that have more oak influence can behave like a red, and I would serve these slightly warmer, in a white Burgundy glass; these show at their best after 6-8 years. Producers used to favour vanilla-style oak, but there has been a move away from this.’

Mary says: ‘My favourite grape. Santorini has such a unique terroir that these expressions are incredibly special. Vines are ungrafted, unirrigated and phylloxera-free, and production is limited by low yields. It’s not an immediate crowd-pleaser, but a grape that grows on you, with immense complexity. Santorini Assyrtiko has more minerality, elegance and restraint; examples from the mainland are more fruit-driven.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: Try the stainless steel versions with grilled scallops, sesame paste and pomegranate, or grilled seabass with tomatoes, capers and herbs. Pair more oaky versions with rich seafood (lobster bisque, for instance) or even grilled lamb. Serve at 14˚C (15˚C for oaked versions).

Xinomavro

Klearhos says: ‘Over the last decade Xinomavro has become the most popular Greek red, edging out Agiorgitiko. It’s found in four appellations in Greece, and as well as the usual red wine, you can find sparkling Xinomavro (in Amyndeon), and Kyr Yianni makes a lovely rosé version. I’ve been in many blind tastings where Xinomavro has been mistaken for Nebbiolo – it’s similar in its high acidity, high tannins, palish colour and dried fruit, truffley, earthy flavours.

‘But as I like to point out, it’s often a quarter of the price! You also get notes of tomato and black olives, besides the dark plum and pruney fruit, that you wouldn’t find in Nebbiolo – that can be a good way to distinguish them blind. The best examples can age for decades, with the best window between 6 and 12 years, when you’ll find primary fruit and tertiary notes, but without the tannic grip. I would decant young Xinomavro for half an hour, and serve in a red Burgundy glass.’

Mary says: ‘When we started out, it was almost impossible to sell Xinomavro. The aromas are beautiful, but the dry tannins mean that it is less approachable than Agiorgitiko. Then Apostolos Thymiopoulos came along, tamed the tannins, and pioneered the commercial expression of young Xinomavro. Now it’s well and truly on the map. Uoaked versions have some similarity to Pinot Noir; I like to drink these versions with lamb or cheese. More oak-influenced Xinomavro works well with game.’

Suggested food pairings by Klearhos: Try a young version with the Greek dish giouvetsi (orzo with tomato sauce and spice, gruyere cheese and beef or prawns). A more mature vintage would be perfect with a truffle risotto. Serve at 16-18˚C.

Agiorgitiko

Klearhos says: ‘When offering this to diners, I compare it to a Rioja, or a modern Tuscan red, but it’s often better value – you’ll find the same soft and finely grained, delicate tannins, a medium body and lots of fresh, juicy red fruit. The name translates as St George, and its principal home is Nemea. It’s the perfect grape to introduce you to Greek reds. [Tim Atkin MW wrote on his website last year: ‘If Xinomavro is an eccentric, three-piece suit, Agiorgitiko is a pair of pyjamas.’] And you can drink it in its youth while you’re waiting for your Xinomavro to mature. You wouldn’t want to age Agiorgitiko for longer than 6 or 7 years, as it’s all about seductive fruit and elegant tannins. There’s a lot of stylistic diversity – producers have been experimenting with this grape for 20 years. Some make it like a Bordeaux, others more like a Gamay. Today there seems to be a move away from heavy oaking and a focus on what’s happening in the vineyard. There’s no need to decant, and I’d recommend using a Bordeaux glass.’

Mary says: ‘It was all about Agiorgitiko when we started, as it’s so much more approachable than Xinomavro. If you like, Xinomavro is more masculine, and Agiorgitiko more feminine in profile, with velvety tannins, a medium body and soft morello cherry fruit. There’s an obvious similarity to Rioja.’

Suggested food pairings: Enjoy the fruit-driven, steel-aged versions at 15-16˚C, with canapés or cold cuts. The more concentrated, oak-aged styles would work perfectly at 16-18˚C, with slow-cooked pork shoulder with spices.

Muscat of Samos

Klearhos says: ‘These wines often show more fruit, more concentration and more complexity than Muscats from elsewhere. The lighter versions are fruit driven, while the rancio-style wines (like the Nectar, below) have notes of caramel, chocolate, dried fruit and honey. I’d serve them in a white wine glass rather than the tiny sweet wine glasses that you sometimes find – this will enable you to fully enjoy the incredible aromas.’

Mary says: ‘The sweet wines of Samos have become famous all over the world. They’re made from Muscat à Petit Grains, and some have the fermentation stopped and spirit added, while others are made from sundried grapes with no spirit added. I love to drink the lighter styles with pannacotta or blue cheese, and the wine will keep for two weeks in the fridge after opening.’

Suggested food pairings: Serve the lighter style vins doux at 12-14˚C with a tarte tatin or apricot tart. The rancio versions shouldn’t be served too cold – the Nectar would be delicious at 14˚C, at the end of a meal with cannelés or pétit fours, or with 36-month-old Parmesan served with figs or marmalade on the side.’

Greece’s flagship grapes: Wines to try

See also: Panel tasting – Greek red wines to try

From hazy tourist memories of bad retsina served in terrible glasses in tavernas, to the sensational modern-day Assyrtikos of Santorini island, Greek wine has come a long way. This is particularly felt in the country’s whites, which highlight freshness and structure, with moderate alcohol levels that rarely exceed 13.5%. There’s also an unexpected common thread – a saline aftertaste. Assyrtiko doesn’t have a monopoly on this, as a handful of other exciting white varieties have come to the fore.

Savatiano and pink-skinned Roditis account for one third of the 65,000ha total Greek vineyard. These varieties, traditionally associated with retsina, are being reinvented by passionate producers. Savatiano, which has its home in Attica, shows moderately intense aromas of apples, white peach and melon. It ages well, developing a honeyed, toasty character, almost like a Hunter Valley Semillon. Dry-farmed old bush vines tame its vigour, adding substance and layers of complexity. The unsung and often neutral Roditis, when planted in high-altitude sites such as Aigialeia in the Peloponnese, produces breath-taking wines with intense minerality. Both varieties react well to skin contact, which is becoming more and more common.

Mainland Greece has two more key aromatic varieties. Malagousia was rescued from extinction in the late 1960s and quickly won the hearts of most producers. It covers 520ha and produces single-varietal wines or softens the edges of Assyrtiko in blends. Aromas include flowers and herbs in cooler sites, followed by a round palate with soft acidity. It delivers its best in mountainous areas.

Compared to Assyrtiko, it offers the more approachable side of Greek whites; however, the best examples are worth cellaring for up to five years. Moschofilero, another pink-skinned variety planted mainly in Mantinia in the Peloponnese, could have been a big hit with its mix of Muscat aromas, high acidity and friendly prices, but it was a victim of its own success – as producers increased yields to meet rising demand, so overall quality suffered.

Fortunately, it’s making a comeback with rosé-style wines, some with lees ageing and smart oaking. The Greek islands showcase numerous varieties. Robola excels in Cephalonia, giving elegant, medium-bodied wines with lemon, grapefruit and fennel aromas, plus fresh acidity. Producers are experimenting with prolonged lees ageing, and some single-vineyard wines have been released. Vidiano is the superstar in Crete, delivering a dense core of apricot over sea-breeze minerality. Wines are fleshy and vibrant, with a satiny texture – the Greek Condrieu, as it works well with oak.

Other styles include orange and traditional-method sparkling wines. The list would not be complete without Aidani. A partner for Assyrtiko, it’s increasingly used on its own, delivering expressive wines with jasmine, peach, kumquat and tropical fruit. It’s made in two main styles: a rather Alsatian version and a more mineral one.

Yiannis Karakasis MW’s top 18 alternative Greek whites

On 7 November 2019, Decanter and Vinitaly teamed up at Bellavita Expo, London – the leading trade event dedicated to the promotion of Italian food and beverage – to host a Mediterranean-focused masterclass highlighting DWWA 2019 Platinum medal winners from Italy, Spain, France, Greece and Slovenia.

The award-winning line-up was presented by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine and a DWWA judge since 2009. Each wine in the line-up was expertly studied and described, from vinification methods to typicity and flavour profiles, and well received by the trade members in attendance.

Junior closed the sold-out masterclass with a nod to the Decanter World Wine Awards judging process, commenting:

On the topic of medals he added:

DWWA 2019 Platinum medal line-up

Pere Ventura, Vintage Gran Reserva Brut, Cava, Spain 2014

Platinum, 97 points

Elegant savoury nose with nuances of toasty oak with rich apple and marmite aromas. In the mouth is sharp, energetic and ethereal, with real depth a finely textured bubbles with a delicate texture.

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi, Macedonia, Greece 2018 

Platinum, 97 points

Profound, with purity and elegance. Aromatics of grass and herbs, with ripe white stone fruit. Beautiful core of Meyer lemon, white pepper and dried oregano, and a long finish. Excellent.

Siddùra, Bèru, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, Sardinia, Italy 2016

Platinum, 97 points

An enchanting example of Vermentino with delectable stone fruits and opulent tropical notes underpinned by a pure mineral backbone. Robust and intense with an elegant citrus freshness, a charming viscosity and a powerful, smoky finish.

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Ščurek, Rebula Up, Goriška Brda, Primorska, Slovenia 2013

Platinum, 97 points

Rich, elegant aromas of candied orange, apricot and dried fruits. Sweet spice and vanilla flavours on the palate, with lovely minerality and a long, ripe finish. Shows excellent complexity.

Tenuta Casteani, Marujo Syrah, Maremma Toscana, Tuscany, Italy 2016

Platinum, 97 points

This is superlatively made and effortlessly drinkable. Cassis, plum, Mediterranean herbs, green peppercorn and black spice weave through each other framed by velvety, but tenacious tannins. Silky, seamless and polished. All up, a very impressive Tuscan Syrah, the balance and length nigh-on perfect.

Merum Priorati, El Cel, Priorat, Spain 2016

Platinum, 97 points

Superb complexity on the nose with concentrated balckberries framed by elegant nose of oriental spices, black pepper and toasty oak. A unique wine, combining power and finesse, with a lingering open finish and tightly knitted tannins supported by a juicy core of fruit concentration.

Domaine De Baronarques, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2016

Platinum, 97 points

A seamless on-song Bordeaux style blend, yet with much more ripeness and juicy fruit gum character. Monumental depth of character which is enhanced by well-managed oak that is adroitly integrated with the silky tannins to give a fresh, elegant finish. Very complete, nuanced, long and beautifully balanced. Pitch-perfect now but still lots of life ahead. Excellent release.

Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria, Sicily, Italy 2016

Platinum, 98 points

More of an experience than merely a wine! An exotic blast of ripe stone fruit and sweet spice unfold to reveal honeyed layers of mandarin zest and sumptuous apricot. Creamy and luxurious with a superb acidity and captivating finish.

See full DWWA 2019 results

The black- and red-sand beaches of this volcanic island offer a stunning backdrop to some of the world’s most extreme vineyards, writes Nico Manessis. It’s worth braving the tourist crowds for...

Santorini wine travel guide

Most people head to Santorini to experience the jaw-dropping views and ever-changing colours, seen from the sugar-cube white houses perched all along the volcanic rim of the caldera. These jagged cliffs are the product of the huge eruption that occurred around 1613 BC.

• Spend 24 hours in Santorini

What you are experiencing is the force of nature’s catastrophic power, as well as its inexhaustible capacity for beauty. There are many sides to this fashionable destination, from the gorgeous volcanic black- and red-sand beaches and vibrant nightlife to the unique cubist, cave-like architecture.

• Read also: Top Athens wine bars and restaurants

The creamy-white pumice that covered most of the island as a result of the eruption gives rise to one of the most improbable vineyard locations. Sun and strong winds necessitated the ingenious, ground-hugging, basket-pruned method of vine training.

• Best Santorini restaurants, hotels and shops

Santorini’s sweet Vinsanto was traditionally exported, mostly to Tsarist Russia, rich Greek industrialists and the merchants of Egypt, but the market collapsed after the Russian Revolution in 1917. Much reduced in acreage today, Santorini soldiers on, with emphasis on the mineral-laden, bone-dry expressions of Assyrtiko, and some Vinsanto.

Today, the island’s ungrafted vines amount to 1,100 hectares. Of this, 65% are planted with the Assyrtiko grape. Not content with merely surviving in this apparently hostile natural environment, this variety manages to produce a singular, bone-dry white of inimitable character.

When Assyrtiko stepped onto the world stage 15 years ago, commentators coined the phrase ‘Chablis on steroids’. They’ve come a long way since, today offering mouthwatering freshness and food-friendly salinity. Their tannic bite gives them an edge, not unlike the drama of the windswept caldera cliffs. Few wines capture such a pronounced sense of place. If wine is geography in a bottle, the fact that ‘revisiting’ the island is just a click away is modern-day magic.

• See also: Greek white wines: 10 great value choices

Barren landscape

This lesser-known world can be discovered through Santorini’s extensive wine routes. Dotted with unique basket-shaped vine crowns, prickly pears and volcanic black rocks embedded in the creamy-white topsoil, the barren landscape presents an ever-changing, often lunar-like vista. The island is 70km2 and driving times to any winery, depending on your base, vary from 25 minutes to no longer than 45 minutes.

• Top volcanic wines of Santorini, Etna and Tenerife

A short list of wineries invites discovery. Domaine Sigalas is a boutique winery, with refined, bone-dry whites – look for the creamy Kavalieros – and it’s one of the addresses championing the rare red Mavrotragano grape. It’s set to trial eggshaped cement tanks with the 2016 harvest.

Next stop is Venetsanos Winery, carved out of pumice on the caldera cliff edge, and rich in history and atmosphere. At its height, Santorini wine production was mostly made into Vinsanto – sweet dessert wine made from sun-dried between 1860-1920, an era when wine wineries housed in farmsteads carved into the rock – many of which are now converted to villas or boutique hotels. The terraces at Venetsanos offer one of the island’s most breathtaking views, and in the wines, nuances from their Megalochori and Pyrgos vineyards abound.

Further south, you can see what a 19thcentury canava really looked like at the Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum. A large part of the underground cellars have been converted into a museum and the singlevineyard Ksera Homata is one of several characterful, terroir-driven wines you can try.

• RELATED: More wine travel inspiration

Argyros Estate is a historic Vinsanto producer in a new, modern, Cycladic-styled winery. It’s a must-visit to try the island’s most significant aged Vinsantos – the 12-year-old is a particular star. This sweet wine style is a life-saver – literally. The late Mattheos Argyros, grandfather of the current namesake, used to tell of how intertwined the islanders’ lives were with grape farming. During World War II, they hid cherished casks of Vinsanto, knowing their worth. As there were no fruit trees on the island, and little or no sugar on the black market, they would dilute the wine, rich in residual sugar, with rainwater. This magic potion saved lives on the island, as it prevented hypoglycaemia in pregnant women.

If you’re looking to taste something unique, Gaia Wines is housed in an impressively built ex-tomato cannery on a black-sand beach. Each year workers retrieve 500 bottles which have spent four years submerged in the Aegean sea, 20m below the surface. Taste, with your toes not far from the surf, the different nuances derived from cellaring on land and underwater.

Nico Manessis is the DWWA Regional Chair for Greece and Cyprus, and publishes Greekwineworld.net blog

More wine travel guides:

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A paradise for walkers, this astonishing corner of Liguria reveals an age-old tradition of vine-growing and a small but thriving

Decanter travel guide: Ventoux, France

What popular wine grape is Bulgarian variety Rubin similar to? Find out with this insider report on a recent masterclass for wines from Greece, Bulgaria and parts of Italy, held by Konstantinos Lazarakis MW.

‘What these regions have in common is not always easy to understand to start with,’ Lazarakis said as he began the tutored tasting. The focus would be on wines of Greece, Bulgaria – particularly the Thracian Valley – and Emilia-Romagna in Italy.

• In pictures: Decanter Greece Italy and Bulgaria tasting 2016

The session started with a video, which emphasised that these places share ‘a common wine tradition and culture.’

They are also all regions that have produced wine for a very long time: for around three or four millennia. Although they aren’t the oldest winemaking regions, these countries were the first to really develop a culture around wine and to enjoy with food, said Lazarakis.

Sadly they suffered from what he called ‘rock star syndrome’; too much success, too early and too quickly, to then sit on their laurels – so now many consumers have a confused idea about the quality of the wines.

• Book now: Decanter Spain and Portugal Fine Wine Encounter

The wines

Kicking off with wines from Emilia-Romagna, Lazarakis said that Italy has clear positive connotations about many things; wine, food, clothes, cars – ‘although, football…. Not so much’. Emilia Romagna is home to many of these positive things.

From an aromatic Malvasia di Candia Aromatica to a very food-friendly Lambrusco, what was clear was a great diversity of styles just from this one region of Italy.

Moving on to Greek wines, wines included an aromatic and acidic – almost 3pH – white wine, from Moscofilero, a variety similar to Muscat, and a red made from Xinomavro, similar to Nebbiolo that, according to Lazarakis, ‘proved that Greek wine can be top quality.’

• Greek wines: 10 great value choices

The Bulgarian wines were mainly from the Thracian Valley, which is close to the Greek border. Again, unusual varieties were showcased, such as Rubin, a variety created post –World War Two, from Nebbiolo and Syrah – giving it both complexitiy and ‘guts’.

The final was a blend, primarily of Mavrud, prompting Lazarakis to tell the old tale of how Mavrud got its name; involving a man killing a lion after drinking some local wine.

Food and wine cultures

The idea of a shared culture around wine between these regions was clear; these are all places that want wine to be enjoyed with food – a point also emphasised by the producers showing their wines at the trade and consumer tastings.

‘This wine needs to go with rich Italian dishes,’ Beatrice Brighenti, of Monte dell Vigne told Decanter.com during the trade tasting, referring to their Lambrusco Selezione.

By keeping food in mind, places with these kinds of traditions have a ‘completely different approach’ to winemaking, said Lazarakis. ‘You don’t need to be spoon-fed all the flavours and structures.’

• The 10 rules of food and wine matching

He then mentioned how a sommelier advised him that ‘matching colour is very important when matching food and wine’; think Italian tomato dishes with a red wine – with the acidity to stand up to it as well.

Food-friendly and to be enjoyed as part of the Mediterranean lifestyle, the wines of Greece, Italy and Bulgaria are definitely worth giving a chance.

The full masterclass wine list:

• Torre Fornello, Donna Luigia 2014
• Tenuta Santa Cecilia Croara Pignoletto Superiore 2014
• Monte delle Vigne, Lambrusco Selezione 2014
• Celli, Le Grillaie, Sangiovese Superiore 2014
• Fratelli Bonelli, Gutturnio Riserva 2012
• Domaine Skouras, Moscofilero 2015
• Alexakis winery, Vidiano 2015
• Mediterra winery, Mirambelo 2011
• Vaeni Naoussa, Bios Ellinon 2008
• Alpha Estate, Alpha Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines 2011
• Brestovitsa, Rubin 2013
• Kamenki, Kamatan 2014

See photo highlights from the Discoveries of Greece, Italy and Bulgaria Decanter tasting event this week (2nd February 2016).

Across both trade and consumer tastings, more than 300 people came to discover more about the wines from Greece, Italy and Bulgaria.

Held in the Insititute of Directors in London’s Pall Mall, 19 producers showcased more than 80 wines from these countries.

The trade event also included a masterclass from Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, further exploring the similarities between these winemaking countries.

The Discoveries of Greece Italy Bulgaria tasting was held at the Institute of Directors.

19 producers showcased their wines.

Monte delle Vigne showed their wines and Lambrusco.

Alpha Estate, from Amyndeon in Greece, showed its red and white dry wines.

Torre Fornello, from the Colli Piacentini hills in Emilia-Romagna

Konstantinos Lazarakis MW lead a masterclass on wines of Greece, Italy and Bulgaria.

The wines at the Discoveries of Greece Italy and Bulgaria masterclass.

Tenuta Santa Cecilia Croara showed a selection of sparkling and still wines.

Trade professionals try wines at the Decanter Greece, Italy and Bulgaria tasting.

Domaine Skouras, from the Nemea Peloponesse region in Greece.

Wines from Pulden & Villa Yambol, in Bulgaria

Mossi 1558 from Emilia-Romagna.

La Sabbiona in Emilia-Romagna showed some of their dry red and white wines.

Fattoria Moretto showed a selection of Lambruscos and sparkling wines.

Fratelli Bonelli showed some of their sparkling and red wines.

Decanter's Steven Spurrier tasting the wines.

Over 300 people came to the trade and consumer tastings.

Celli Winery showcased some of their dry red and white wines.

Condé Winery showed a range of Sangiovese wines.

Casali Viticultori showed a range of red and white sparkling wines.

Explore the ancient origins of winemaking from these Southern European regions.

A selection of small, independent producers from Greece, Italy and Bulgaria are flying in for this exceptional tasting of premium Mediterranean wines. Discover emerging regions and journey back to the roots of winemaking in the impressive, period surroundings of London’s Institute of Directors.

TRADE TASTING: 11am-4.30pm 

Trade Masterclass with Konstantinos Lazarakis MW 11am-12pm

Trade only register HERE

CONSUMER TASTING: 6pm-8pm

Tickets £25 – BOOK HERE

This year's Decanter Mediterranean Fine Wine Encounter in London on Saturday 7th March 2015 is set to showcase an incredible selection of wines from top producers across this exciting region, so read our guide to five must-visit wineries taking part in this unique wine tasting event.

1. Recaredo

Recaredo set up shop in 1924 and is a biodynamically-run estate; indeed it was the very first Cava producer to receive an official stamp of approval from the biodynamic certification body, Demeter.

It’s not only insecticides or pesticides that are shunned here; sugar doesn’t get a look-in either, for all of its releases are always Brut Nature and always Vintage.

Recaredo is clearly never in an undue rush to get the bottles to market, as the bare minimum ageing period for any of its releases is 30 months, but as you will see from some of the wines they will have on show this is far often exceeded; indeed it still has wines that have been maturing in its cellars for almost three decades.

This is a producer unequivocally dedicated to its craft and is therefore justifiably regarded as one of the very finest exponents of Cava. These are serious, high class wines, and their appearance at this event affords you the opportunity to sample top-drawer Cava; wines that are a world away from those that have done the name no favours in recent times.

2. Simčič

The vineyards of Simčič straddle the border between Italy and Slovenia in an area called the Brda hills. Famed for its mineral-rich sandstone and marl soil, this region also reaps the benefits of warm Mediterranean air on one side, and shelter from colder alpine influences on the other thanks to the Trnovoska Plateau; all three factors being recognised as far back as the Romans for being conducive to quality winemaking.

The farm was established in the latter half of the 19th century by Anton Simčič, who also built an inn and general store in the local village, plus a wine merchant in Vienna.

At the helm since 1988 has been Marjan Simčič who has overseen a transition towards more organic principles and the banishing of insecticides and chemical fertilisers.

For many, Simčič represents the apex of the Slovenian wine world, and it truly makes extraordinary wines full of personality and charm, as evidenced by the volume of awards it has been garlanded with around the world.

3. Chateau Ksara

With vineyards located in the heart of Lebanon, Ksara has over 150 years of winemaking knowhow under its belt, having been founded in the mid-19th Century by Jesuit monks who began to farm a 25ha patch of land, and who also lay claim to producing Lebanon’s first dry red wine.

It remained under the guidance of monks until the mid-1970s, when it was eventually relinquished as part of a push by the Vatican for any commercial assets to be sold off.

Over the course of history, Ksara has unsurprisingly witnessed significant periods of upheaval: French governance from 1920 until 1943; the devastating effects of the civil conflict which included the winery being occupied for a time by the Syrian army, and most recently the 2006 war with Israel which saw one of its neighbour’s tractors being obliterated in a missile strike having been mistakenly identified as being for military rather than agricultural use.

Despite such tumultuous events, Ksara has somehow never once failed to bring in a harvest and today undeniably stands as one of the country’s most respected and biggest producers, releasing almost three million bottles each year.

4. Golan Heights

Golan Heights was born in 1976 when its first vines went into the ground; however it waited a further eight years to release any wine at all, the debut being a 1983 Sauvignon Blanc.

It currently tends 28 vineyards which are divided into 400 separate blocks and extend over 600ha ranging between 400 and 1200m above sea level, growing some 21 different grape varieties including Gamay, Malbec and Riesling.

The man with his hand on the tiller is American Victor Schoenfeld. A native of California, his CV reveals stints at Robert Mondavi, Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma and the much-revered Champagne House, Jacquesson.

In 1992 he made the move to Israel and has been Head Winemaker at Golan Heights ever since, currently overseeing the production of several million bottles annually; moreover, he is universally recognised as being at the vanguard of the Israeli wine evolution.

5. Domaine Terra Vecchia

The island of Corsica is not generally regarded as a hotbed of French wine production, yet it is home to a clutch of fantastic estates who craft wonderfully characterful wines, something perfectly encapsulated by Domaine Terra Vecchia; one of the very finest.

Terra Vecchia, which means ‘old land’ in the local dialect, sits on red clay and granite soil, and the nearby marine pond called the Lake of Diana helps guard the vines from both the Mediterranean temperatures and the sea’s spray.

Terra Vecchia grows a range of varieties including Vermentino, Syrah and Nielluccio (also known as Sangiovese), and the resulting wines are distinctly engaging and idiosyncratic, making this producer an essential stop-over on your tour at the Decanter Mediterranean Fine Wine Encounter.

Tickets for the Mediterranean Encounter Grand Tasting, from 11am – 5pm, cost £45 each or £80 for two. For more information and to book tickets click here.

Written by Decanter

Don’t miss your chance to discover an exceptional selection of wines from top producers along the Mediterranean coast in a tasting highlighting the variety, authenticity and quality of this fascinating region at the Decanter Mediterranean Fine Wine Encounter on Saturday 7 March 2015.

From Château Musar in the Lebanon to Italy’s cult Sassicaia and Sicilian Marsala to dessert wine made in Cyprus, our ninety minute tutored tasting offers you the chance to discover 10 incredible and iconic wines presented by Berry Bros. & Rudd expert Demetri Walters MW.

‘This really is a unique opportunity to taste the diversity of wines produced along the Mediterranean coast, and all under one roof’, Walters says. ‘You’ll not only have the chance to taste authentic and native grapes from Cyprus, Greece and Sicily, some of which are produced in exceptionally small quantities, but also to taste icon wines from Italy, Spain and the Lebanon as well as a rare and intriguing presentation of two desert wines, including one from 1987′.

The 10 masterclass wines and reasons why you have to try each one:

‘An example of excellent winemaking showing the premium quality that Priorat Garnacha wines can produce’ – Clos de l’Obac, Gratallops, Priorat, 2004

‘One of the greatest Vin doux Naturels from a region that’s not as widely known as it used to be’ – Rivesaltes Rouge, La Carbasse VDN, Domaine Sarda Malet, Roussillon, France, 2006

‘This really is a wine of place! With lovely savoury and herbal notes, it’s like walking through the French garrgiue-scented countryside’ – La Pèira en Damaisela, Coteaux du Larzac, France, 2008

‘Premium quality, cult classic from a very successful vintage’ – Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy, 2011

‘A really authentic Southern Italian wine, full bodied, lots of extract, ripe tannins and balancing acidity’ – Old Vines Primitivo, Az Agr, Morella, Puglia, Italy, 2007

‘A wine style that has diminished in production but increased in quality – Marco is THE maker and this is one of his best’ – Marsala Superiore Riserva, Marco de Bartoli, Sicily, Italy, 1987

‘A classic style of Santorini Assyrtiko – one of the icons and a must-try’ – Nikteri Assyrtiko, Haridimos Hatzidakis, Santorini, Greece, 2011

‘By far and away the best that’s being produced and one that many will never have tasted’ – Xinomavaro, Earth & Sky, Thymiopoulos, Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece, 2011

‘This is the oldest continuously produced wine in existence (origins can be traced back as far as the late 12th century) and shows a revival of its original, unfortified style’ – Commandaria, Kyperounda, Pitsila Moutains, Cyprus, 2005

‘The ultimate iconic Levantine wine made in an extremely good vintage’ – Château Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, 2003

To book tickets to the Great Wines of the Mediterranean masterclass click here.

Further to the stand-out and more recognisable names, Walters wanted to include wines from regions that may perhaps have ‘declined in fashion but by no means in quality. ‘Cyprus, Sicily and the South of France are all resurgent regions in terms of premium quality but not many know it, or have had the chance to taste it first-hand’.

Walters also wanted to show the complexity of the Mediterranean region; ‘I’ll be giving consumers a good idea of what’s available both mainstream, like Priorat, but also an expression of something different, that’s no less valid but far less well-known, like Santorini and Puglia’.

‘There’s a huge rainbow of wines in this tasting, mixing those that may be too expensive to ordinarily buy (prices range from £17 – £136 per bottle) with some wines consumers probably won’t be aware of’.

As well as the sheer variety of wines on offer, Walters will be presenting the historical context behind each region, evaluating different styles of winemaking, variances in terroir, vintage conditions, and producer profiles, all of which ultimately shape how and why a wine tastes the way it does.

‘It will be quite a race to cover all ten incredible wines in just ninety minutes but for £45, it’s extremely good value. There will be an awful lot of information on a small number of wines, alongside the complexity of tasting a range of styles from across the whole of the Mediterranean basin – I can’t wait’.

For more information about the Decanter Mediterranean Fine Wine Encounter and to book tickets to the Great Wines of the Mediterranean masterclass click here.

Written by Decanter

Find out about our Decanter World Wine Awards 2014 Southern and Eastern Mediterranean judging panel with biographies of the Regional Chair Isa Bal MS plus Ana Emilia Sapungiu, Dimitar Nikolov, Jo Ahearne MW, Serdar Balkaya and Totte Steneby.

Regional chair: Isa Bal MS

Bal has been head sommelier at Heston Blumenthal’s three-starred Michelin restaurant, The Fat Duck, since 2005. He studied hospitality in his native Turkey before moving to the UK in 1999, where he began his sommelier career at The Vineyard at Stockcross, working his way up to head sommelier. Last year he represented Turkey in the Best Sommelier of the World competition in Tokyo, and he was previously named Best Sommelier of Europe 2008.

Judges

Ana Emilia Sapungiu

Ana Sapungiu is a buyer for Oddbins and is responsible for the buying of still, sparkling and fortified wines. She started with Oddbins as a Branch manager in the London stores in 2004, before she joined head office in 2007 and made her way into buying. Alongside her job, Sapungiu judges at international wine competitions and is studying for the Master of Wine. When she is not doing anything wine-related, she loves travelling and visiting her family back in her native Romania.

Dimitar Nikolov

Dimitar Nikolov has ten years’ experience in the wine industry as a wine buyer, sommelier and wine judge, holds qualifications from the ISG Chicago, the WSET advanced certificate, and is currently studying for the WSET diploma. He is a wine buyer by profession and a sommelier by heart. Starting his career as a sommelier for a major hotel chain in Bulgaria, and at a restaurant in Chicago, Nikolov then returned to his native Bulgaria to work for Metro Cash & Carry, firstly as the wine buyer for Bulgaria, and then as wine buyer for Metro Cash & Carry’s entire Russian Federation operations, which saw him move to Russia. After five years with the company, Nikolov was appointed to a top management position at a wine importer specialising in Hungarian wines. Together with his wife, he owns the online wine shop apollowine.com, which stocks a selection of high end Bulgarian and Balkan wines.

Jo Ahearne MW

Jo Ahearne MW first worked in the wine trade in the early 1990s at Oddbins, and after two years she went to Australia to work a vintage for Charles Melton, with his Nine Popes and Rose of Virginia wines. While in the Barossa Valley, she decided to sell her house and belongings and enrol in a winemaking degree at Charles Sturt University in Australia, whilst also working at Pipers Brook, Bailey’s of Glenrowan, Leasingham and Tintara wineries. Following this, Ahearne worked as a flying winemaker in Spain and France, was assistant winemaker at Charles Melton, spent four years making Jacob’s Creek, and spent time in Fitou in the Languedoc. In 2004, Ahearne moved back to the UK to blend wines for Marks & Spencer, before a stint as wine and spirits buyer for Harrods. She now works as a winemaking consultant in France, Spain, Italy, Hungary and Macedonia.

Serdar Balkaya

Serdar Balkaya has just been appointed head sommelier at Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner. Previously he worked as head sommelier for the Hakkasan Group’s HKK, which he joined in 2004, and was also part of the opening teams for restaurants both abroad and in the UK. Balkaya studied tourism and hotel management in London from 2003 to 2005, has since passed WSET exams, along with the Court of Master Sommeliers’ advanced course, and is currently studying for the Master Sommelier qualification.

Totte Steneby

Stockholm native Totte Steneby started his career in the food industry before turning to wine in 2007, the year he passed both a sommelier exam and the WSET Advanced Certificate. In 2008 he joined Eriks Vinbar, where he currently works, and since then has taken part in several international wine competitions. In 2008 he won the Swedish Rioja Sommelier Award and Viniportugal Scholarship and, in 2010, won the ASI Nordic Championship for Sommeliers and was invited as a keynote speaker at the Asian Top Sommelier Summit in Hong Kong. In 2011 he was the winner of the Swedish Championship of Sommeliers. Steneby is the co-founder and current vice president of the Sveriges Sommeliergille, an organisation which brings Swedish sommeliers together to teach and learn from each other.

Written by John Abbott

Find out about our Decanter World Wine Awards 2014 Greece & Cyprus judging panel with biographies of the Regional Chair Nico Manessis plus Elvis Ziakos, Steve Daniel and Theresa Paopao.

Regional chair: Nico Manessis

Manessis is an expert on the wines of his native Greece and the author of three wine books. He spends several months each year in the Greek vineyards, which he documents at Greekwineworld.com. He recently co-produced the award-winning documentary Pelican’s Watch, on Santorini’s unique vineyard. Manessis teaches at the Swiss Ecole du Vin de Changins, and at the Université du Vin in Suze la Rousse, France. He is a member of the Académie Internationale du Vin and is writing a book on Santorini’s terroir and produce with chef Vassilis Zacharakis.

Judges

Elvis Ziakos

Elvis Ziakos is assistant head sommelier at The Greenhouse restaurant in London. Starting his career in his native Greece, Ziakos completed sommelier studies at the Le Monde Institute in Athens and worked as head sommelier at Kohylia restaurant at the Grand Resort Lagonissi from 2002 to 2007. He then spent five years working at the Michelin-starred Spondi restaurant as their head sommelier, before moving to London in 2012 to join the team at Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. Ziakos has won many awards as a sommelier, including representing Greece at the Best Sommelier of the World competition in 2007.

Steve Daniel

Steve Daniel has been buying director of Novum Wines, a specialist importer focusing on restaurants, and now part of Hallgarten Druitt, since 2003. He previously worked at Oddbins, where he was buying and marketing director, and during his time with the company Steve championed Greek wines, as well as being largely responsible for increasing Oddbins’ profile in the UK.

Theresa Paopao

Theresa Paopao hails from the small town of Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii. She left island life to pursue a graduate degree at the Yale School of Drama in New Haven, and then moved to Boston where she fell in love with the restaurant business and the world of wine. On joining the Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Paopao became serious about a career in hospitality and beverages, and after working as manager, she went on to be their wine director and general manager. In 2010, she joined the New York Momofuku team as wine director, a role which took her to Ontario to open their new spaces in Toronto in 2012, and Paopao is now back in Boston where she is the beverage director and general manager of Ribelle which earned four stars from the Boston Globe shortly after it opened last summer.

Written by John Abbott

Hear from our Southern & Eastern Mediterraean Regional Chair Isa Bal MS on which wines to buy, which wines to leave on the shelf and what to keep an eye on from this year's Decanter World Wine Awards....

While this panel looks at wines from across this diverse region, Turkey still dominates our results. The country is situated in a geographical area with many thousands of years of viticultural history. I’ve always felt Turkey’s wine producers owe the wine-loving public a debt, which I don’t think they’ve paid for a long time. But over the past 10 years or so this has been changing and we are seeing some really exciting wines coming out of Turkish vineyards made from both indigenous and international varieties. The people making these wines are to be congratulated for doing so despite the difficult conditions presented by the country’s legal system concerning wine production. The focus is firmly on whites and reds, with sparkling and sweet styles largely ignored by most producers. Overall, there were some really smart wines, especially at the medium-priced level, but poor oak is affecting many potentially high-quality wines. Away from Turkey, Malta’s small showing is to be commended, but it would be nice to see some more wines from here as well as north Africa in future years.

What should we buy from here?

The blends made with Kalecik Karasi and Syrah did very well, and vaietal Syrah is also proving successful, as seen in our two Golds. But for the second year running it was a Nero d’Avola-Urla Karasi blend that took our well-deserved Trophy – a great combination.

What should we leave on the shelf?

High-priced, over-oaked Cabernet Sauvignons and badly handled Narince were disappointments: price does not guarantee a good wine anywhere in the world, and Turkey’s indigenous varieties will never be fully appreciated unless quality improves. The Maltese wines, unfortunately, failed to excite our panel.

What should we keep an eye on?

The newly established Thrace Wine Route is a sign of things to come from there. Watch out for the Denizli Güney region too. I predict Cabernet Franc will increase its medal tally in future years, as will Nero d’Avola and other southern Italian varieties.

Written by Decanter

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Red Southern & Eastern Mediterranean over £15 went to Ukuf Mevkii, Nero d'Avola-Urla Karasi, Aegean Coastal Region, Turkey 2012 (15%)

Tasted against:

• Turasan, Syrah Argos, Central Anatolia, Turkey 2010

Profile:

With this Regional Trophy, Urla has repeated its success in last year’s DWWA with the 2011 vintage of the same wine.

Urla Sarapçılık is owned by Can Ortabas, who runs one of Turkey’s largest nurseries. It was when he was out surveying his 200-hectare property that he stumbled across the ruins of 3,000-year-old vineyard terraces, marking the genesis of Urla Sarapçılık (named after the local town), and a dream to revive the winemaking tradition of this small region.

A key part was to rescue the indigenous grapes, Urla Karasi being one. The company carried out an extensive DNA analysis of vines in the region to locate the true Urla Karası. Today the winery grows a raft of indigenous and international grapes. With this Trophy-winner, Ortaba¸s says the aim was ‘to marry the two black grapes of the Mediterranean’ – both the ‘nero’ in Italy’s Nero d’Avola and the ‘karası’ in Urla Karası mean black.

The blend contains only 4% Urla Karası due to the limited amount available – the variety is very resistant to grafting so takes time to propagate. But Ortaba¸s says he is patient and hopes to increase plantings to make a pure Urla Karası in future.

Written by Decanter

Hear from our Greece & Cyprus Regional Chair Nico Manessis on which wines to buy, which wines to leave on the shelf and what to keep an eye on from this year's Decanter World Wine Awards....

The Greek econo mic crisis has been a boon for wine. Minds have focused on exports, which continue to grow, along with value. In this year’s DWWA, Greek wines had their highest strike rate ever, garnering 12 Gold medals and six Trophies. Santorini’s Assyrtiko has finally seen a breakthrough, where professionals and international opinion leaders are finally appreciating these one-of-a-kind, bone-dry wines. Elsewhere, dry and sweet whites are delivering an impressive track record in consistency, hitting new heights in quality and sophistication. The commitment by Cyprus to join the 21st century in terms of wine predates the current economic climate. Cypriot wine is clearly undergoing a period of transition and a wider shift in mentality is now needed to focus on re-energising these ancient vineyards. The Gold and seven Silvers illustrate the unlocked potential of this historic island-vineyard. New approaches have been introduced, and it shows. But there must be more to come.

What should we buy from here?

Whites from Crete excelled: the Vidianá and Vilana grapes are worth seeking out for their unique qualities and sense of place. Savatiano, from Attica in central Greece, has also joined the party, showing that it can compete with the finest mineraledged whites. The red Xinomavro, with its unmatched floral profile and hard-edged tannins, has, in the softer 2011 vintage, delivered a classier, more accessible expression. Marks & Spencer’s own-label scored a Silver – try it! From Cyprus, seek out the character and freshness of Xynisteri-based whites.

What should we leave on the shelf?

A few isolated spots have not kept up with all the changes over the past 20 years. Yet, these are unlikely to find their way on to the export market. Green, unripe flavours in both reds from Crete and Cyprus Bordeaux blends were poor showings.

What should we keep an eye on?

Greece’s white Kidonitsa and the red Limniona are exciting grapes with a promising future. On Cyprus, Maratheftiko – both in flavourful rosés and fragrant reds – is making a strong argument for rediscovering the vinous heritage of this island.

Written by Decanter