Andy Howard MW, Beatrice Bessi and Robert Mathias tasted 137 wines, with 16 Highly recommended and 80 Recommended

Right Bank Bordeaux: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 16

Recommended 80

Commended 41

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red grand vin from Lussac St-Emilion, Puisseguin St-Emilion, Montagne St-Emilion, St-Georges St-Emilion, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac, Côtes de Bourg, Blaye, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux or Côtes de Bordeaux (APs St-Emilion and Pomerol were not included)

A patchwork quilt of value wines

Although no wines were rated Outstanding (95 points and above), there was still much to enjoy in this tasting.

A wide range of appellations were tasted, generating 16 Highly recommended wines (90-94pts) from eight different appellationss.

APs ranged from those on the opposite side of the Gironde to the Haut-Médoc (Côtes de Bourg, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux); Fronsac and Lalande-de-Pomerol (west and north of Libourne); the St-Emilion ‘satellites’ of Lussac, Puisseguin, Montagne and St-Georges; plus the Castillon, Francs and Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux appellations further east.

The ‘satellite’ APs performed strongly, accounting for 10 of the 16 Highly recommendeds.

Bordeaux continues to offer a unique package for wine drinkers, combining (at the less-exalted level) attractive pricing, capacity to both drink well in youth and age, and a fresh, medium-alcohol style in tune with current trends.

Many of these qualities were on show in these wines.

2023 finds favour

Robert Mathias MW saw plenty of positives: ‘There was a lot of approachability in the recent vintages, and charm in many of the wines. The satellite APs are a good hunting ground for early-drinking, easygoing reds.’

Beatrice Bessi felt there were ‘very pleasant discoveries in Blaye, Castillon, Lussac, Puisseguin and Montagne’.

Merlot (unsurprisingly) dominated the blends in these Right Bank wines and was generally handled well, with subtle, restrained oak (when used).

Château Coucy’s Origines (Montagne) also stood out as a single-varietal Cabernet Franc aged for 11-12 months in amphora.

Considering vintages, Bessi was most impressed by the 2023s, while Mathias noted that in 2022 there were some wines ‘where you saw younger vines and poorer terroirs resulting in some vines being blocked due to the drought’.

However, Mathias concluded: ‘The best wines stood out for their freshness, completeness and energy. While they didn’t reach the heights of more famous APs, they’re still to be commended.'

See all notes and scores from the Right Bank Bordeaux tasting

The judges

Right Bank Bordeaux panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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It had been over 15 years since I last sat down with Hubert de Boüard, the man synonymous with Château Angélus and one of Bordeaux’s most influential figures.

In that time, Angélus achieved Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) status before dramatically withdrawing from the classification altogether in 2022.

Now, over lunch at Bob Bob Ricard in the City of London, the focus was not on Angélus, but on Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard – the flagship single-vineyard wine from his Lalande-de-Pomerol estate.

Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard

The lunch centred on three vintages of Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard, a 100% Merlot drawn from a 6ha parcel of 70-80-year-old vines growing on a bed of large, heat-retaining stones reminiscent of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with 15-20% clay.

First isolated in 2000 and bottled in tiny quantities (around 4,000 bottles annually thanks to a yield of 15 to 20hl/ha on average), this wine stands apart for its richness and concentration – even in lesser years – due primarily to the vine age and the extra 'warmth' from the stones.

The wines are aged for 33 months in barrels including 18 months on fine lees in 100% French oak with no fining or filtration.

The 2016 showed almost tropical aromas of grapefruit and pineapple, and brought to mind the legendary wines of Le Pin in neighbouring Pomerol.

Being frank, alongside the 2011 and 2013, there is something incredibly special about this wine.

Rarely do you find such interesting and concentrated examples from so called 'lacklustre vintages' outside the very top tier of the region – but these I can assure you, are that.

Beyond Merlot: Consumer-driven choices

De Boüard also shared the estate’s Chardonnay (Vin de Pays de L'Atlantique), a wine born from both consumer demand and personal preference.

'When we send 10 cases of Chardonnay and 10 of Sauvignon Blanc to our summer house, the Chardonnay is always finished and there are always a few cases of Sauvignon Blanc remaining,' he remarked.

A Burgundy-trained winemaker, he decided to plant Chardonnay in 2016 because, 'it’s what we want to drink' and because it resonates more strongly with people than Sauvignon does on his terroir.

Syrah, Grenache and a Provençal-style rosé are also produced here, all bottled as Vin de France in response to what consumers actually want. This is 'new generation' Bordeaux in action.

A farmer first

De Boüard describes himself as 'a farmer first, winemaker second'.

That philosophy drove the creation of Le Plus: one parcel that consistently produced richer, more distinctive wines, so it was separated out despite his general aversion to single-cuvée bottlings.

The large stones warm the soil, helping the old vines achieve ripeness and depth even in challenging seasons.

To further their ambitions to exhibit the quality and value of this relatively fledgling estate (purchased in 1998) to the world, they have developed one of the first genuinely all encompassing 'oeno-tourism' operations in Bordeaux.

When you wind your way up the hill from Pomerol to Lalande a Pomerol and into La Fleur de Boüard close to the village of Néac, there is far more to discover than initially meets the eye.

The estate visit and tasting are a given but beyond that there is a restaurant which not only serves all the wines by the glass, but where the simple menu is exceptionally well executed.

If you are not in a rush to leave there are three rooms above the restaurant, as well as two larger villa style apartments, a swimming pool and a hot tub.

I mention this not as an advertorial, but it strikes me that this really is the future of Bordeaux, where they can show the world first hand, how stunning the wines can be and, next to many fine wine regions, demonstrate superb value.

A candid conversation

Over lunch, de Boüard spoke openly about the 'depressed' state of the fine wine market – not something one often hears from proprietors at the upper end of Bordeaux – and his commitment to keeping prices fair for consumers, especially given the obvious quality.

He was refreshingly frank about Bordeaux’s broader challenges – demand, global popularity of the region, and of course the ultimate political hot potato, the En Primeur system.

The conversation was not strictly off the record, but I will summarise by saying I was slightly in awe of the opinions of a man who is evidently well travelled through the world of wine.

He came across as someone who knows full well how other regions are succeeding, as well as how the global economy is not, and is implementing procedures and structures that are not only empathetic to the consumer but revolutionary among so many of the 'experienced generation' of the Bordelais.

The future of La Fleur de Boüard is one that I shall follow with great interest.

Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard tasted

The wines are listed white then red in vintage order youngest to oldest

All together now, how does it go?

‘I am NOT drinking any –ing Merlot!’

Miles Raymond’s infamously snobbish cry of rage in Sideways reverberated in the physical world as much as the celluloid one.

After it was uttered across cinemas in the US in 2004, the line is credited with causing a 2% drop in sales of Merlot in the western United States, and a 16% rise in sales of Pinot Noir.

The trend was subsequently reported in other markets such as the UK too.

The mythology of the ‘Sideways Effect’ is considerably exaggerated but it’s not entirely untrue. If you ever stop and wonder how and why there’s so much unimpressive Pinot being flogged at bargain basement prices (particularly in the US), what you’re seeing is the (viti)cultural ripple caused by the film.

And the double irony is that what caused Miles to be such a Merlot-hater was (his ex-wife, but also) because it was a grape that had become mainstream thanks to another moment that entered the cultural zeitgeist – 60 Minutes’ infamous 1991 segment on the ‘French paradox’.

Although the study behind the report is now treated with considerable scepticism, at the time it caused a boom in wine sales in the US.

And Merlot, being ripe and plummy and not too angular as varieties go, was the perfect grape to introduce a generation of new drinkers to wine.

Which obviously meant it began to attract scorn from aesthetes…

The origins of Merlot

Merlot appears in the historical record in the late 18th century, with an official in Libourne recording a wine made from ‘Merlau’.

As with many grapes, there’s some debate around the origins of its name, though a plausible theory is that it’s named after the common blackbird – ‘merle’ in French but ‘merlau’ in the local Gascon.

Research in the 1990s would show that Merlot is descended from the line of Cabernet Franc, making it a sibling to Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Carmenere.

Its similarity to Carmenere famously led to Chile labelling a lot of wine as Merlot until the mistake was later rectified.

Merlot’s second parent remained a mystery until a chance discovery of a variety that had fallen into disuse in western France proved to be the missing link – Magdeleine Noire des Charentes.

Worldwide appeal

Merlot’s origins and rise to fame, like that of its half-sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon, is firmly Bordelais.

It’s impossible to imagine the Bordeaux Blend without Merlot and given the influence of Bordeaux on wine around the world, Merlot has become a thoroughly global variety found from the Andes to Hawkes Bay, and the Pomerol plateau to the shores of the Cape.

It thrives in cooler soils – which is why it’s so dominant on the clay of Bordeaux’s right bank – ripens early and can crop abundantly.

Its thin skins means it has less (though not negligible) colour and tannins than its Cabernet sibling and parent, making for fruity and approachable wines.

Like Cabernet it can turn its hand to inexpensive, everyday wines as well as taking its place in some of the world’s most expensive and sought-after labels.

Don’t count it out

But Merlot isn’t a variety that often has people swooning over it.

Indeed, it’s often seen as a bit of wallflower among red varieties. It’s not grand like Cabernet Sauvignon, not peppery like Syrah, not as romantic as Pinot Noir.

Merlot is too often seen as either cheap and simple (for people who ‘don’t really like wine’) or as a simple blending component.

But! Ignore Merlot at your peril. It may not be the flashiest variety but you can miss it when it’s not there.

Hard hit by the frosts in 2021, one of the criticisms of Bordeaux in that vintage was the lack of middle palate body and fruit – normally provided by Merlot. And there’s often a lot more Merlot in some of these famous left bank blends than one realises.

The blend of Château Haut-Brion 2015 for example (listed below) is 50% Merlot.

Furthermore, when handled by real masters, Merlot – alone – can unfurl itself in true splendour with freshness, finesse, depth and complexity; as the likes of Petrus and Masseto aptly demonstrate.

However, even those that do not come from such exalted estates would still grace any cellar or collection they find themselves in.

Listed below is a small selection of Merlot-based wines – mono-varietal or at least 50% of a blend – rated 95-points or more by Decanter between January and December 2025.

Click here to see more than 5,000 reviews of Merlot by Decanter

Decanter Cellar: 20 top-rated Merlot

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Think of Bordeaux and an exclusive selection premium wines is likely to spring to mind – first growths, en primeur offerings and world-famous châteaux don’t tend to scream ‘value’.

Likewise in Burgundy, you’re unlikely to treat the grands crus of Romanée-Conti, Corton and Montrachet as casual purchases for mid-week quaffing.

But as with most wine regions, you can still find value-for-money bottles and enjoy something truly special without breaking the bank.

To back up this claim, we’ve pulled together a number of wines from across Burgundy and Bordeaux, all on the shelf at under £30 per bottle* – and some below £20.

There’s something for everyone here; sparkling, white, red and sweet, and several offerings from well-known areas including St-Julien, St-Estèphe, Beaujolais, Chablis and Sauternes.

Alongside individual producers, our selection also showcases some great-value supermarket own-brand labels.

*The Sauternes listed is available in half bottle format

Best value Burgundy and Bordeaux: 14 top picks

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Born in 1925, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing grew up in Bordeaux’s Médoc region, daughter of Edouard-François Miailhe and Victoria-Charlotte Desbarats.

Her family ties to wine ran deep. Her father and uncle revived her grandfather’s brokerage business after World War I, investing in the region when confidence and sales were low.

They bought and ran Bordeaux estates including Château Palmer, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

‘I grew up among the vines – I learned by listening to my father and uncle,’ May-Eliane recalls. ‘I have loved everything about grapes and wine since I was a child. It’s in my blood.’

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 12 superb wines from Glenelly

Family influence

Her Bordeaux was one scarred by the vine-root louse phylloxera, two world wars and low demand.

‘I understood not just the wines but the climatic problems and economic uncertainties as well. I knew difficult times – for the wines and the markets.’

In the 1940s, May-Eliane’s university studies were cut short by her father, who decided she should work in the family office in Bordeaux city, where she learned business, teamwork and management.

An admired yet authoritarian figure, her father was to prove a key influence in her life, although her paternal uncle Louis – more relaxed, less controlling – and her four grandparents also shaped her early interests, between them instilling a love of soils and a passion for conversation, music and literature that would stay with her all her life.

In early May 1948, May-Eliane was introduced to Captain Hervé de Lencquesaing, and her father arranged for them to be married just six weeks later.

She left Bordeaux aged 23 for a life as an army wife, seemingly never to return to the gravel croupes, bustling chais and stately châteaux of her youth.

Return to Pichon Comtesse

Her years with Captain de Lencquesaing were eventful beyond wine, and included time in the USA which she enjoyed immensely, finding great warmth and intelligence in the post-war Midwest.

He retired as a general in 1974, and they were ready for a settled life in Pas-de-Calais in northern France, where May-Eliane was engaged in local politics.

But there was still the issue of her father’s estate.

After nearly 20 years in probate (he died in 1959, aged 61), the inheritance included châteaux, a Champagne house, real estate in Paris and tracts of Landes woodland.

‘The most iconic lot, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Pauillac, fell to me through the luck of the draw,’ May-Eliane recalls. ‘It was precisely what I had hoped to avoid, knowing the responsibility it entailed.’

It was far from her only challenge. ‘I was the first woman,’ she says. ‘There was no one else.’

Corinne Mentzelopoulos had not yet joined Château Margaux; Philippine de Rothschild would not arrive at Château Mouton Rothschild for another decade.

The Médoc wine world was profoundly hostile to the idea of a woman in charge. ‘I had to rely not on truthful men but on the men who lied to me the least,’ she recalls. Her experience in French politics helped, however.

‘In their eyes, I knew nothing. When I joined their conversations, they would stop talking. But when they realised I wasn’t going away, they had no choice but to accept me.’

Work ethic

May-Eliane recognised the need to study modern winemaking if she was to earn respect in the Médoc, and aged 53, she enrolled at Bordeaux University, studying under Professors Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon.

‘I was in Pichon, leaving at 6am for classes, returning at 6pm to work on the administration,’ she says.

Her wines enjoyed great commercial and critical success, from the inaugural 1978 onwards, and she engaged in an intense programme of travel and tasting. ‘I was the one presenting the wines, pulling the cork. It was important that I was there,’ she insists.

But away from her husband and family, she struggled.

‘I was anxious and terribly lonely. My children did not understand my work at all. They thought I was having fun, living in a beautiful château, having dinner parties. My family did not support me; neither did my neighbours in Bordeaux.’

Eventually, General de Lencquesaing joined her in the Médoc, and Pichon Comtesse became a key property in the story of Bordeaux’s renewal in the 1980s.

She was hands-on and in charge of every detail, bringing to bear the fortitude and attention to detail of an army wife with the work ethic and business acuity of her father and uncle.

‘I knew how the flowering had been, and the budding and the maturation. I was never in Arcachon [on the nearby coast] in the summer like everyone else.’ She soon gained the epithet La Générale.

In this busy period she was the recipient of many honours and awards, and at the age of 69 was chosen as the 1994 Decanter Woman of the Year (since renamed the Decanter Hall of Fame award).

No one could have known then that, a decade later, she would be embarking on a new project on the other side of the world, or that she would subsequently be celebrating the conclusion of the 2025 harvest with her winemaking team at Glenelly, in Stellenbosch, at the age of 100.

Uprooting

By the early 2000s, despite its success, the future of Château Pichon Comtesse was uncertain.

The family’s jewel since 1925 (by chance, the same year as May-Eliane’s birth), it was to be sold in a move that surprised many.

‘It was a very difficult decision,’ she says. ‘My son Hughes could have taken it on, but he and his wife decided to stay in Paris. My daughter Violaine had an excellent palate but did not have a relationship with the workers.’

May-Eliane’s respect for her staff at Pichon was a crucial aspect of her time there.

‘If I have been successful it is because I always had a strong relationship with the workers. I would fly back from Chicago or Los Angeles and I would see them in the pouring rain in the vineyard, soaking wet and covered in mud.

‘I was full of admiration. “Thank you for doing the work you do,” I told them, “I’m going to tell you about the work I have been doing.” We talked. I knew them, I knew their families.’

Pichon Comtesse was finally sold to the Roederer Champagne group in 2006, and subsequently May-Eliane was able to devote herself to the development of the Glenelly estate in South Africa, which she had purchased in 2003.

Prior to this, May-Eliane’s first venture beyond Bordeaux had been a collaboration with Washington state’s Château Ste Michelle in the 1990s, though she withdrew from the proposed arrangement when the parent company demanded a fixed annual production volume in the contract.

Glenelly, Mandela & the Huguenots

As president of the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) in the 1990s, May-Eliane met many South African winemakers who were winning trophies with their Bordeaux blends, and Nelson Mandela’s victory in the nation’s 1994 presidential elections deeply moved her.

Her successor at the IWSC, Anton Rupert, a major name in South African wine, urged her to consider the Cape for her new project, pointing out its French Huguenot roots.

‘I told him I couldn’t start planting a vineyard at my age. He said, “Do it in honour of Mandela.” So I did.’

She chose Glenelly in Stellenbosch’s Simonsberg zone (pictured, above), drawn to its decomposed granite soils, varied slopes and reliable water supply – a foresight that proved crucial given the challenges of drought in the Cape winelands.

Though it had previously been planted with vines, Glenelly was a fruit farm when she bought it, and this allowed her to start from scratch with the knowledge she had gained in Bordeaux.

She hired young winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain as cellar master and (much to his surprise) retained long-time agronomist Heinrich Louw, whose deep understanding of the estate she knew would prove invaluable.

Now living in Switzerland, May-Eliane still travels to Glenelly for several months each year. With her grandchildren helping in its running, it’s likely to remain in family hands.

In 2022, Dirk van Zyl took over as cellar master, maintaining important winemaking tenets such as wild yeast fermentation, while taking the bold move to pick not on the basis of technical analysis, but on the taste of the berries in the vineyard.

‘Heinrich is doing everything right in the vineyards in terms of sustainability, cover crops and so on,’ May-Eliane notes, ‘but if we are going to find more finesse in the wines, it will be through Dirk.’

A century into an exceptional life, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing continues to question and refine. Even now, her work is defined as much by what might still be possible as by what she has already achieved.

At 100, she’s still looking to the future.

See Jason’s pick from Glenelly’s admirable portfolio

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Few names are as synonymous with contemporary St-Emilion as Château Pavie – one of just two St-Emilion estates currently with the top rank of premier grand cru classé A – and Gérard Perse, its late owner and former self-made supermarket mogul turned wine empire builder.

An unrelenting dream with quality and hospitality at its heart has seen the Perse universe evolve and expand from wine estates to hotels, restaurants, brasseries and now even an ice cream parlour all nestled among the cobbled streets of the medieval village, the crown jewel of the Right Bank region.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Georgie’s top picks from Château Pavie

Historic and contentious

It’s not hard to see Pavie’s clear terroir credentials, given that vine cultivation here dates back to the 4th century – supposedly the oldest alongside Château Ausone.

It’s a rare and relatively extensive single block, comprising the famous limestone plateau and sweeping south-facing slopes that tumble into an amphitheatre of vines dropping from 85m to 20m and basking in the full sun above the Dordogne valley.

‘Wine is of course the main job,’ says Henrique Da Costa, son-in-law of Perse, who has for more than two decades been part of the family team running the estate with Perse’s daughter Angélique (pictured, below).

‘But it’s also everything around it – in order to give guests the full experience, you need gastronomy, you need hospitality. Quality, quality, quality – that was always Gérard’s rule.

And it shows. From the meticulously tended vines and beautifully adorned commemorative bottles to the magnificent marble-clad reception and tasting rooms and five-star accommodation.

Pavie’s success story is as impressive as Perse’s, with slick marketing and a bucketful of options for any wine lover wanting to enjoy the delights of the region.

But the estate and its methods have not been without controversy.

At times branded flashy and excessive, its wines have divided critical opinion, but there’s no doubting the perseverance of a man on a mission and a team dedicated to perfection.

A radical transformation

When Gérard Perse (pictured, below) purchased Château Pavie in 1998 from the Valette family, it was a shadow of its potential, having lost much of its prestige through the 1980s and early ’90s.

Though the terroir was hallowed, the vineyard was tired, the winery outdated and much of the equipment obsolete. But Perse had already spent five years learning the rhythms of St-Emilion.

He and his wife Chantal (who worked with him from the beginning, managing the hospitality and restaurant side of the business) had bought Château Monbousquet in 1993 – what he later called his ‘laboratory for experimentation’ – and Pavie-Decesse in 1997, on the limestone plateau just above Pavie.

‘By the time Gérard came here,’ says Da Costa, ‘he knew exactly what he wanted to do. Monbousquet was where he learned. Pavie was where he applied everything.’

He saw potential not problems and came in with a spare-no-expense attitude.

When he arrived, more than 15,000 vines were missing or dead and the old cellar wasn’t fit for purpose. Within months, he tore it down and rebuilt it, installing wooden vats and temperature control.

That first new vat room was barely finished when the 1998 harvest began, yet it marked the start of a new chapter. A second, marble-clad cellar would follow in 2013, cementing Pavie’s place among Bordeaux’s most advanced wineries.

Birth of a modern legend

Replanting began and so did viticultural changes, including large-scale green harvesting. ‘People said, “He’s crazy, cutting bunches”,’ Da Costa recalls with a smile.

‘But Gérard didn’t care – he stayed focused on his way. He wasn’t making wine for Parker or for points; he was making the wines he loved, with the structure and power to last decades.’

The early vintages – 2000, 2003, 2005 – were monuments to that philosophy: dark, rich and unapologetically full-bodied.

They were also among the most polarising wines Bordeaux had ever seen. Robert Parker hailed them as masterpieces of modern St-Emilion; British critics called them excessive.

They were wines of texture and ambition, designed not for immediate charm but for longevity.

‘We know that the wine can support [new oak] for a long time, there’s no question. These are wines that are meant to live 20, 30, even 50 years,’ says Da Costa.

Pavie’s south-facing exposure naturally lends itself to generosity. ‘It’s a warm terroir, so, yes, the wines are rich – but that’s Pavie, that’s its character,’ he adds.

Monbousquet had already introduced Perse to the US market through merchant Jeffrey Davies, who championed the wines early on.

‘He admired the US,’ Da Costa says. ‘He told us many times, if he were younger, he would have gone there. But his style wasn’t for anyone else. It was his taste, his vision.’

The St-Emilion amphitheatre

Château Pavie’s 42ha form a natural amphitheatre of south-facing slopes with 11 distinct soil types, from hard limestone to heavy clays and sandy gravels – among the steepest in St-Emilion.

The varietal mix has shifted gradually over time – today about 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon – enhancing freshness and structure.

The vines are planted at 7,000 per hectare, and massal selections (propagated via cuttings from existing estate vines) are used for replanting.

The vineyard is farmed organically, but not certified, with cover crops and horses working the steepest plots.

A team of 25 vineyard workers tends the 21 parcels, which have an average age of 30 years (the oldest are 75 years old), each responsible for the same rows year after year.

‘They know every vine by heart,’ Da Costa says. ‘That’s why Pavie is so consistent – it’s not just the terroir, it’s the people, the team, the knowledge.’

This also explains the vineyard’s immaculate presentation and the subtle refinements in the wines over the past decade.

Cellar & craft

Precision is the cornerstone of Pavie’s winemaking. Grapes are handpicked, sorted twice and vinified by parcel in small oak vats. Fermentations are long and cool, with gentle pump-overs to preserve fruit purity.

‘We’re softer in the cellar now,’ Da Costa explains. ‘We still want intensity, but not heaviness. It’s about balance.’

Press wine never makes it into the grand vin. Ageing lasts 18-24 months in 60%-70% new oak, down from the 100% last used in 2005. ‘It’s about integration, not dominance. You should never taste the wood – it should just be part of the harmony.’

The technical direction is led by Laurent Lusseau, supported by long-serving cellar master Jean-Baptiste Pion (pictured, below), who joined in 1998.

‘Many of the team have been here from the beginning,’ Da Costa notes. ‘That’s what gives Pavie its soul.’

Evolution & refinement

Over the past two decades, Pavie has undergone a quiet stylistic evolution.

Shorter macerations, cooler fermentations and slightly earlier picking have brought greater freshness and precision.

The result is a more balanced expression – still unmistakably Pavie in style and power with signature freshness, but more nuanced in texture.

‘We’re still making wines that can age,’ Da Costa says, ‘but now they also have an accessibility earlier in life. That’s important for the next generation of drinkers.’

Recent vintages – 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2022 – exemplify this balance: bold yet refined, polished yet nuanced. And the older wines, once accused of excess, have aged into graceful classics.

‘Tasting the 2000s now, you see how they’ve mellowed,’ Da Costa reflects. ‘They’re still strong, but they’ve become elegant. Time has proven the style.’

Recognition & independence

Château Pavie has grown physically, too. In 2002, the national appellation authority INAO approved the integration of Château La Clusière and part of Pavie-Decesse, both sharing identical terroirs.

In 2022, the remaining 3ha of Pavie-Decesse and 2ha of Bellevue-Mondotte joined Pavie after 15 vintages of comparative tastings to confirm compatibility.

The estate’s second wine, Arômes de Pavie, has its own style and personality, being produced from dedicated old-vine parcels since 2017, while a wider Bordeaux blend,

Esprit de Pavie, uses fruit from nearby Castillon and declassified lots, further broadening the estate’s reach.

In 2012, Pavie’s transformation reached its pinnacle when it was promoted to the level of premier grand cru classé A, joining St-Emilion’s elite estates at the top of the region’s official classification listing.

To mark the occasion, Perse released a special commemorative black-labelled bottle (pictured, above).

A decade later, a limited-edition enamelled design marked the 2022 St-Emilion reclassification, symbolising continuity through change.

The classification triumph was both recognition and closure – less about competition, more about proving that the work, the vision, could achieve something lasting.

Beyond the bottle

To further understand Pavie’s influence today, one must look beyond the vineyards. The Perse family has built one of the region’s most comprehensive and self-contained visions of wine, culture and hospitality.

In the Place du Clocher, the flagship restaurant La Table de Pavie (pictured, above), led by chef Yannick Alléno, holds two Michelin stars and is striving for a third – a feat yet to be achieved in Bordeaux.

Dishes draw inspiration from the immediate surroundings with thoughtful and innovative red wine pairings.

Meanwhile, the renovation of the Hostellerie de Plaisance has transformed it into one of the most elegant hotels in the region, with an Instagram-worthy terrace overlooking the town, while the nearby L’Envers du Décor remains one of the village’s busiest bistros, beloved by winemakers and visitors to the town alike.

For Da Costa, this expansion is entirely consistent with the ethos of the wines. ‘We built hospitality purposely,’ he says, ‘to show what St-Emilion can be, and with Pavie at the heart of it all.

‘St-Emilion needed energy again,’ he continues. ‘Gérard Perse gave it that. He wanted people to come, to taste, to stay – to experience everything this place could offer.’

Legacy & reflection

Looking back after more than two decades, Château Pavie’s journey feels almost cinematic – from controversy to cult classic.

‘Gérard Perse was a visionary,’ says Da Costa. ‘He showed that conviction matters more than consensus. He made the wines he loved, and he never apologised for that.’

Even those who once bristled at the flash and ambition now concede that Perse turned a sleepy estate into a powerhouse – one that continues to thrive in his memory.

A taste of Château Pavie: Hindle’s pick of the vintages

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In the spring of 2006, the wine world was a very different place; the insatiable demand for Burgundy was barely a twinkle in the milkman’s eye, Bordeaux was the undisputed deity of the wine world, and the entire known wine universe was ruled by one Robert M. Parker Jr.

History

When ‘Bob Parker’ released his first report on the 2005 vintage, titled; ‘Is 2005 the perfect vintage?’, ahead of the much-awaited En Primeur campaign, lovers of fine wine across the globe frantically contacted their bank managers to lay hands on any and everything that came their way.

Of course, the campaign was a roaring success, even with the relatively lofty prices, but there came a twist… when the great man, who had fuelled massive hype and demand through his comments, released his ‘in-bottle’ review, all and sundry were flabbergasted to read that there were only two ‘perfect’ 100 point scores from the hundreds reviewed.

He went on to qualify that ‘the perfect vintage’ referred, not necessarily to the absolute highs, but the exceptional median quality and homogeneity present, left and right, from top to bottom and everywhere in between.

In more recent years we have seen similar comments made about 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2022. As a great château owner once joked: ‘We don’t have bad vintages in Bordeaux. We have good vintages, great vintages and vintage of the century… but we can only use that every five years’.

The question on every Bordeaux lover’s lips is: ‘Where does 2005 sit in the pantheon of ‘vintages of the century?’ that are already so numerous in the first three decades of the new millennium.

Notes and scores for 23 Bordeaux wines from 2005 below

Weather conditions

The growing season was textbook and pleasingly effortless, dry being the predominant word but with some timely rain. Hot of course, but with no heatwaves as in 2003.

The cool nights gave the grapes a little refresh button after a day of basking in the sun, aiding in a gradual and gentle course to perfect phenolic ripeness. This long, slow ripening helped bring great balance to the wines.

Nonetheless, a few wines are showing their inherent ripeness; Château la Conseillante, Chaâteau Pontet-Canet, Château Palmer, Château Giscours to name a few.

As we would possibly expect in a vintage famed for evolving so slowly, there are more than a few wines that remain unresolved and very youthful.

Although some château exhibited the quirks common in warm vintages, many showed a beautiful purity and classicism, on the left bank especially.

Alcohols hover around the 13% mark, a pleasing number for the traditionalists among us, and a clear example of a benchmark vintage that, in the most part, refuses to succumb to anything flabby or excessive.

While tasting these wines 20 years on showed substantial stylistic differences, the homogeneity in terms of quality, seems to ring as true today, as it did for Robert Parker 19 years ago.

This does beg the question… in this benchmark vintage, are the First Growths and peers a significant enough step up, or, would other properties, not so lauded in the 1855 Classification, bring a similar amount of pleasure without the additional price tag?

Price and value

Scouring for prices on WineSearcher reveal the most expensive wine to be Château Cheval Blanc at around £900 a bottle (Margaux next at £859), and the cheapest Château Batailley at £65 (next Gruaud-Larose at £80).

Undoubtedly the First Growths of 2005 are among the very best wines produced this century. However, I would argue in a homogenous vintage like 2005, many others, such as Château Montrose and Château Figeac, hit far above their ‘classification’ and make for a very tempting proposition at a significantly lower price point (around £118 and £175 respectively).

While I would not peddle 2005 to be greater than the likes of 2009, 2010, 2015 and 2016, there is no doubt that 2005 Bordeaux is a truly great vintage.

Although some 2005s remain in their gangly unresolved stage of youth, others are showing glimmers, to say the least, of their potential elegance, gravitas and greatness.

See all 23 Bordeaux 2005 wines re-tasted 20 years on

All of the wines were tasted as part of the Berry Bros. & Rudd 2005 Bordeaux 20 years on tasting in London. 

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One of the most well known international red grape varieties, ever fluctuating in popularity, Merlot is not to be underestimated.

It’s characterised by red fruits such as ripe plums, gentle spices, soft tannins and rounded, plush texture, expressing notes of mocha or chocolate with oak influence. The best examples have great ageing potential.

Merlot can produce noteworthy varietal wines and is a great blending partner. It’s a key variety in Bordeaux blends, working well with varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, but it’s soft, approachable character adds to blends with varieties far beyond the classics.

Finding its home in Bordeaux where it grows best on the Right Bank, Merlot has the capability of delivering wines with lovely expressions from around the world.

Scroll down to explore 15 awarded Merlots from DWWA 2025

Outside of France, it is famously grown in Italy, California and Chile where it can produce fruity, easy-drinking expressions, but when grown in higher altitudes or with attentive vine management, for example, more structured examples are to be found.

Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025 saw a number of top-scoring Merlot-based wines awarded, including two Best in Show (97 points) from Bordeaux – André Lurton, Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan 2022 and Chateau La Croix Younan, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2022. For André Lurton, the judges commented ‘on the palate, it is soft, tended and ample, with Merlot turning on the charm’ whereas for the latter they highlighted the wine’s fresh scents and generous, soft-textured yet shapely and long palate. The region also secured a number of Platinum and Gold medals.

Beyond France, top quality expressions of Merlot were rated by the experts from Chile and the United States and less discovered wine regions such as Croatia, Mexico and Moldova.

To celebrate International Merlot Day, we highlight 15 awarded Merlot and Merlot-dominant wines that are worth exploring. Search all winners from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

International Merlot Day: 15 award-winning wines to try

Chile

Viña Undurraga, T.H.,Casablanca Valley 2023

Silver, 94 points

Engaging red fruit and forest fruit on the nose with nuances of cranberries, red cherries and sea weed. Wonderful tension. Alcohol 14%

Croatia

Hvar Hills Winery, Merlot, Srednja i Južna Dalmacija, Coastal 2022

Gold, 95 points

An ambient combination of pure bramble fruit and earthy oaked spice which encircles the nose and palate and enfolds in the rounded structure. Very long. Alc 15%

France

André Lurton, Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

Pessac-Léognan is an appellation which comes into its own in the most generous vintages – like 2022. There’s often near parity between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot here (Merlot is on the front foot in this wine, its 65% complemented by 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot and 3 per cent Cabernet Franc), and the proximity of the forests to Pessac-Léognan mean that many of the best sites retain freshness even during heat-spike and drought conditions. This opaque black-red wine is packed with the tender-sweet black fruits and sweet floral seduction typical of the vintage; secondary complexities lie ahead. On the palate, it is soft, tender and ample, with Merlot turning on the charm. The Petit Verdot brings a little pepper and spice to the blend, and even the Cabernet in this wine is affable and unforbidding, just lending grandeur and resolve to the Merlot’s charm. As with our St Emilion Best in Show, this is not a Pessac-Léognan that will demand extensive cellar ageing; its soft textures, balance and charm make it an ideal choice for the first decade following the vintage. Alc 14%

Chateau La Croix Younan, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

One of the biggest treats of the two days in which the Co-Chairs met to look at our best Platinum medals this year was the chance to sit down with an entire flight of 2022 reds from Bordeaux – a magnificent vintage of untramelled generosity with a long life ahead. This St Emilion wine, its 70% Merlot balanced by 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, has bright, fresh scents with ample black fruits to the fore; the palate is generous and soft-textured yet shapely and long, with softly cedary complexities shading the dark plum fruits. This will be a 2022 to enjoy relatively soon, though the constitution of the vintage will ensure it holds well as it modulates towards a gentle and open-pored old age. Alc 13.5%

Château Coudert, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux 2022

Platinum, 97 points

Irresistible aromas of ripe plum, blueberry and liquorice which weave into the intricate mineral core. Full of power, concentration and potential with muscular tannins, strident acidity and a compact savoury oak finish. Long and sustaining. Alc 15.5%

Château Tour de Yon, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux 2022

Platinum, 97 points

A marriage of New World-style hedonism: lavish sweet black cherry and blueberry fruit, to a classic Old World structure: polished savoury oak tightly knitted into the frame. Very accomplished with time on its side. Sensational. Alc 14%

Château Fonplegade, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux 2022

Gold, 96 points

Taut and youthful with toasted cedar, vanilla and cinnamon notes layered with dark berries and a glimmering minty finery. Structured and complete with a black olive finish. Alc 15%

Hungary

Illés Családi, Dél-Balaton, Balaton 2023

Silver, 94 points

Lovely ripe cherries, plums and vanilla nuances on the nose. Silky and persistent on the palate, with a nice structure. Alc 14%

Mexico

Vinos Santa Clara, Basalto, Chihuahua 2021

Silver, 94 points

Opulent aromas of truffle on the nose; palate of dried plum, blackberry, blueberry and a refreshing acidity. Alc 13.3%

Moldova

Purcari, 1827, Stefan Voda 2023

Gold, 95 points

Jubilant fresh red berries and spice aromas flow energetically through the generous structure, with ample tannins, fruity acidity and a gamey note towards the end. Alc 13.8%

Serbia

Vinarija Zvonko Bogdan, Subotica-Horgoš 2023

Gold, 95 points

An embroidery of ripe blackberry, cassis, tobacco and cedar oak knits deftly into the deeply concentrated palate weaving through the inky tannins and mouth-watering acidity. Alc 14%

Slovenia

De Baguer, Single Vineyard, Goriška Brda, Primorska 2019

Gold, 96 points

Beaming with ripe cherry fruit and fresh herbs with a gentle oaky spice element and appealing leathery texture. Firmly structured and bold with a generous length. Alc 14%

South Africa

Groot Constantia Estate, Constantia, Cape Town 2022

Gold, 95 points

Glistening with black plum, fresh herb and grilled red pepper aroma held in a throng of rewarding tannins with a blackcurrant acidity and long liquorice finish. Alc 14%

Switzerland

Vinattieri, Ticino 2019

Gold, 95 points

A spectrum of plump forest fruits interlaced with dried thyme, oregano and black tea. Poised and elegant with shrouding tannins and a dark chocolate-dipped cherry note to end. Alc 14.5%

United States

Long Shadows Vintners, Pedestal, Columbia Valley, Washington State 2020

Silver, 94 points

Inky and brooding, with a palate of black cherry, leather, tar, mocha and clean cut tannins. Alc 15.1%

Search all DWWA 2025 results

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International Merlot day falls on 7 November, but how much do you know about this ‘noble’ grape variety and the wines that it’s best-known for?

Merlot wines, and Merlot blends, may range from entry-level bottles to some of the world’s finest, and most expensive.

Names like Petrus and Le Pin are fine wine royalty, highly sought-after in auction rooms across the globe, for example.

Below, we’ve compiled a 10-question Merlot wine quiz as a fun way to test your knowledge.

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International Merlot Day: Why Merlot still dominates despite its Sideways reputation

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The damning line ‘I am not drinking any f***ing Merlot!’ from the 2004 film Sideways has a lot to answer for. Already on something of a down-turn in fortune, Merlot suffered a further reduction in popularity due to the shun. A sort of early noughties ‘cancellation’.

On the other hand, some of the finest Merlot-based wines have an almost cult following and have long-since fetched prices among the highest in the world. So what are the characteristics of this grape of mixed reception?

Its fruity profile – think red plum and cherry, and black fruit in warmer vintages – touch of chocolate and typical soft tannins, lend themselves to easy-drinking wines approachable in youth. It’s also capable of producing wines for long ageing, and performs well in blends.

While you won’t find it in all wine-growing regions, Merlot is very widely planted, earning it something of an international reputation. Its true home, and one of the places it is most-highly regarded, is Bordeaux, where it performs particularly well in the damp and cool clay soils of the right bank. It is used either in a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and/or Malbec, or as a single varietal. Legendary Pomerol estate Petrus, for example, uses 100% Merlot (since 2010).

Another notable region for high-quality examples is Tuscany, where famous names such as Ornellaia and Massetto have put the grape on the map for Italy. Californian and Chilean examples are also well-worth seeking out.

As wine styles differ greatly, so too do food pairing options. You may like to drink a fruit-forward mid-week quaffer with a simple tomato-based pasta dish or grilled chicken while more robust styles will hold up well to steak, pork and earthy mushroom dishes.

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• South American Merlot: Panel tasting results
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Following on from a vintage as superb as 2021 would be a tricky task at the best of times, but when the subsequent vintage, 2022, turned out to be extremely arid, prompting plenty of concern during the growing season, the difficulty level ramped up a notch for winemakers in Tuscany’s coastal Bolgheri DOC.

Tasting through the vast majority of 2022 Bolgheri Superiore to be released this year – some on more than one occasion – the vintage character is clear: density, concentration, slightly firm tannins, but also loads of freshness.

‘Vintages like 2022 are a bit more complicated,’ Gianluca Putzolu (director, Le Macchiole) tells me. ‘But from the complicated vintages we make the best wines!’

In fact, almost everyone I spoke with in Bolgheri was bullish about the 2022s, despite the tricky season. One or two suggested the quality for them is better than even 2021.

Scroll down for the top Bolgheri releases

See all 103 wines from the report

2022 in Bolgheri

‘When a vintage is not naturally easy, we pay more attention to the choices we make,’ Fabio Motta tells me. And that really sums up 2022, where attention to detail was key.

The winter of 2021/2022 was worryingly dry, meaning that there was very little left in the tank for the parched vines to tap into during the hot summer months. In fact, there was no rain between February and mid-August.

The hot conditions accelerated ripening, but then things came to a halt as many vines were under hydric stress. With no rain on the horizon, summer temperatures higher than in 2021, and bunches which were no longer actively ripening, growers were rightly becoming quite concerned.

Finally, some mid-August rains quenched the vines and kickstarted ripening. Those rains, confirms Marco Balsimelli (Ornellaia, Masseto) ‘allowed the vines to restart the growing, the ripening process.’

He describes 2022 as having ‘a fresh character…a different style [to 2021] but not less quality.’

Many of the wines in 2022 ooze vintage character. The firmer tannins are a hallmark of an unsteady, stop-start ripening where it was touch and go whether they would fully ripen before harvest, while the deep, rich fruits and compact frames evoke the extreme heat of the summer which in many cases led to smaller berries and reduced yields.

But it’s the succulent freshness found in so many wines in 2022 which belies the vintage’s drought conditions – a miraculous recovery from the brink of despair.

The reason for this freshness, in the form of relatively low pH and high acidity, is due to the vines shutting down as the heat and drought of the summer became too much for them.

This helped to preserve the acidity in the grapes, which was still abundant when the vines commenced ripening following the August rains.

Yet we must also commend the teams working in the vineyards and cellars in Bolgheri, who are now seasoned pros when it comes to dealing with increasingly extreme vintage conditions. ‘Now, we are more prepared,’ says Argentiera’s oenologist, Nicolo Carrara.

The Bolgheri consorzio states that the harvest started early, on average around the third week of August. Both Masseto and Sette Cieli confirm that picking began in August. Elena Pozzolini (Sette Cieli) tells me that it was their earliest harvest since the notoriously hot and dry 2017 vintage.

Canopy management is a vital tool these days for combatting the scorching effect of the sun’s rays, while humidity also needs to be managed carefully.

At Guado al Tasso, new plantings are trained higher off the ground to allow more air to circulate and prevent diseases such as peronospera. ‘20 to 30 centimetres changes a lot,’ states Marco Ferrarese, winemaker and estate director.

A lighter touch

Ferrarese states that his next goal is to reduce the potential alcohol of the wines by planting at lower densities than in the past, and using different rootstocks which maintain more vigour, chasing freshness and fragrance over concentration and power. ‘If you reduce the alcohol, you change everything.’

Martina Chiappini at Chiappini agrees, explaining that she is working on reducing the alcohol content by picking slightly earlier than in the past, as well as using a lighter extraction to ‘underline freshness’.

This is a sentiment followed at Campo alla Sughera, too. Winemaker Francesco Gagliardi tells me that, ‘2022 was more challenging – hotter than 2021, with intermittent rain…extraction was lower to maintain a good balance.’

And Elena Pozzolini, winemaker at Sette Cieli, says she has had a lighter touch in the cellar since the very hot 2017 vintage, employing what she describes as ‘more of an infusion’ rather than numerous punch downs. Harvest in 2022, she recalls, began in August – as it did in 2017.

Some wineries had to be very selective in the vineyard in order to maintain high quality, such as at Podere Il Castellaccio, which reports producing just 800 bottles of Il Castellaccio Bolgheri Superiore 2022 from the less than 1ha of alberello (bush)–trained Cabernet Franc vines.

Bringing the fruit into the cellar, some applied a lighter than usual touch. ‘2022 was more challenging – hotter than 2021, with intermittent rain,’ explains Francesco Gagliardi, winemaker at Campo alla Sughera. ‘Extraction was lower to maintain a good balance.’

‘The world of wine is changing,’ Chiappini concludes.

An emerging style

Cabernet Franc has taken a large portion of the limelight in the last few years, and rightly so. In Bolgheri, it has found the perfect conditions to show its best side, and to me, wines such as Podere Il Castellaccio’s Il Castellaccio Bolgheri Superiore and Le Donne Fittipaldi’s Magnetic Bolgheri Rosso represent an emerging style where Cabernet Franc and amphorae play a more dominant role.

And we now see Cabernet Franc pioneer Le Macchiole introducing some Tava amphorae to Paleo’s traditional barrique ageing regime. I’m sure there will be more to follow.

Bolgheri Rosso 2023

In addition to the new Bolgheri Superiore wines – predominantly from the 2022 vintage – hitting the market this year, there are a host of Bolgheri Rosso and Toscana IGTs, mostly but not exclusively from 2023.

These tend to be additional wines from the same wineries releasing their Bolgheri Superiore; sometimes styled as a ‘second wine’ a lá Bordeaux, and sometimes a different expression entirely.

2023 was a very different vintage compared to 2022. Early spring frosts led to some losses, and then conditions became warm and wet. Unlike the dry spring of 2022, the persistent rain ensured that underground water reserves were topped up, but also led to breakouts of peronospera (downy mildew) in the vineyards, which required viticultural teams to be on constant standby.

2023 was a year when peronospera was running rampant throughout Europe’s vineyards, and even the best ventilated sites in Bolgheri were at risk. Yet Bolgheri was less affected than some other areas of Tuscany thanks to its proximity to the coast and the hills, which provided constant breezes.

A very hot start to August affected early-ripening Merlot production for some estates, but then things cooled down following some rain, extending the growing season for the other varieties. ‘There was beautiful maturation in all our parcels’, states Francesco Gagliardi (winemaker, Campo alla Sughera).

August rain and even some flash floods in September reduced yields of late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon – Campo alla Sughera and Sette Cieli both report significant losses of Cabernet, as the rains led to grapes splitting. Just as in the spring, careful selection in the vineyard was necessary.

‘In 2023, we didn’t do much delestage [racking of the must and returning to the same vessel]. We worked with extraction to manage the concentration,’ says Gaia Cinnirella, Masseto’s winemaker, explaining that during the 2023 harvest period, they tasted the grapes in the vineyards every day, and picked plot by plot.

Selection in the vineyard was critical in 2023 and yields were down, but overall quality was high and wines are wonderfully aromatic, with a plumper character compared to 2022.

‘I believe 2023 is better even than 2021… nature did fantastic work,’ comments Carlo Paoli (general manager and production manager, Tenuta San Guido). Indeed, tasting Guidalberto 2023 and some barrel samples of Sassicaia 2023, he may have a point.

Top-rated Bolgheri Rosso releases in 2025:

Gaja, Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda, Bolgheri 2022 (95 points)

Cipriana, Bolgheri 2023 (93)

Le Macchiole, Bolgheri 2023 (92)

Gaja, Ca’Marcanda Magari, Bolgheri 2023 (91)

Dario di Vaira, Clarice, Bolgheri 2023 (91)

Grattamacco, Bolgheri 2023 (91)

Guado al Melo, Rute, Bolgheri 2022 (91)

Le Donne Fittipaldi, Bolgheri 2023 (91)

Le Donne Fittipaldi, Magnetic, Bolgheri 2023 (91)

Podere Prospero, Bolgheri 2022 (91)

Bolgheri’s white resurgence

Bolgheri DOC may be best known for its star-studded red wines, but in fact in its first 10 years of existence – from 1984 to 1993 – it was a white-wine-only denomination; red and rosé wines were added to the regulations in 1994.

Since the advent of red Bolgheri DOC, the whites have fallen to the wayside, but today there is something of a resurgence. Vermentino is the leading protagonist, but Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are also permitted.

And in addition to Bolgheri DOC whites, you can find a whole host of Toscana IGT examples, which are able to lean on other varieties and winemaking methods not permitted under the DOC regulations.

2024 – the newest vintage for the whites – is described by Martina Chiappini as a year of ‘quality and quantity’ for the whites, and it plays to the fresh aromatics which are sought after in these breezy, coastal white varieties.

Guado al Tasso takes this to the next level by using Vermentino clones from Corsica, which I’m told have more aromatic potential than the traditional Tuscan Vermentino.

Bolgheri’s whites are perfect for lunchtime sipping in the sunshine with a plate of fried fish – save the reds for the evening!

10 delicious whites from Bolgheri to seek out:

Ornellaia, Poggio alle Gazze, Toscana 2023

Campo Alla Sughera, Arioso Vermentino, Toscana 2024

Chiappini, Le Grottine Vermentino, Bolgheri 2024

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari, Borgeri Bianco, Bolgheri 2024

Campo Al Noce, Vermentino, Bolgheri 2024

Donna Olimpia 1898, Bolgheri 2023

Grattamacco, Vermentino, Bolgheri 2023

Michele Satta, Giovin Re, Toscana 2024

Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino, Bolgheri 2024

Tenuta Meraviglia Botro dei Fichi Vermentino Bolgheri 2024

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In recent years with warmer vintages, it has become easier to appreciate the freshening power of St-Emilion’s famous limestone plateau.

The beating heart of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, this geological marvel is defined by its calcium-rich, asteriated limestone (calcaire à astéries, or ‘starfish limestone’), forming the backbone of wines known for freshness, salinity and ageworthy elegance: a rocky hotspot that’s essentially grape royalty!

Scroll down for notes and scores of 14 gems from the plateau of St-Emilion

Lay of the land

While the plateau stretches 17km from St-Emilion to Castillon, just 8.2km fall within the appellation.

Its porous limestone beneath clay or loam acts like a sponge – draining excess moisture in wet seasons and releasing it during drought.

This fosters balanced vine growth and low pH/ vibrant acidity in wines, yielding reds with notes of mint, chalk and graphite.

Historically, the western plateau near St-Emilion town centre (see map, below, light yellow section), where top estates such as Châteaux Beau-Séjour Bécot, Canon and Clos Fourtet reside, benefited from early recognition in the 1950s classification. With its eroded quarries and thinner topsoils, it produces refined, ageworthy wines.

The eastern plateau, generally cooler, with thicker soils and later harvests, is now catching up in acclaim, home to estates such as grand cru Château Rocheyron, grands crus classés Châteaux de Pressac and Laroque, and premier grand cru classé Château Valandraud.

But a tasting of 14 wines for this article – mostly western plateau, some a mix of plateau with clay-limestone slopes – confirmed how, until recently, winemaking often masked terroir.

Bordeaux consultant in soils, viticulture and winemaking Xavier Choné highlighted Valandraud’s previously modern, oaky style as an example. Similarly, a recent tasting of Beau-Séjour Bécot 2010 showed how too much oak dulled the limestone freshness.

Recent vintages, however, especially since the arrival of consultant Thomas Duclos (from the 2017 vintage), now express the plateau’s finesse more transparently.

This shift toward more hands-off winemaking and lighter oak use across the appellation has allowed the limestone terroir to shine.

St-Emilion plateau origins

The plateau’s limestone formed from marine sediments laid down millions of years ago. Tectonic uplift exposed the seabed, creating the current landscape.

Erosion is greater on the western side, resulting in a purer limestone profile, according to experts.

Tasting the plateau

The tasting revealed nuanced differences between eastern and western plateau wines. Also present, French sommelier Ilona Garnier praised the ‘sheer freshness and delicate salinity’ of the Château Canon 2016, from vineyards near the village.

By contrast, the 2020 from Château Rocheyron – just 6km east near St-Christophe-des-Bardes – offered refinement but with more noticeable acidity.

Why such contrast? Mathieu Raveraud, property manager at Rocheyron, attributes it to its cooler brown, calcareous loam over limestone and clay, which leads to later ripening – about a week behind western areas.

Viticulture professor Cornelis (Kees) van Leeuwen, who worked with Château Cheval Blanc and created detailed vineyard maps, notes that later-ripening, cooler soils likely contributed to the east’s lower initial rankings back in the 1950s.

Describing the limestone’s ‘aromatic signature’ can be elusive.

While ‘wet stone’ and ‘mineral’ seem too vague, Edouard Moueix of Château Bélair-Monange offers a more evocative palette: ‘Gun flint, stone, graphite, pebble, shell, sand, stone dust, metallic notes and salinity,’ with textures like ‘chalk, talc, sandpaper… and powder.’

Nicolas Audebert, director of Château Canon, favours ‘minty freshness’ and ‘elegant tension’, while Matthieu Cuvelier (pictured, above), second-generation owner of Clos Fourtet, has it as ‘chalky’, ‘saline’ and ‘freshening acidity’.

The four terroirs of St-Emilion

The St-Emilion wine council notes that the appellation boasts about 700 wine-growers across nearly 5,500ha.

Its vineyards span four main soil types: the limestone plateau; clay-limestone slopes; a gravel terrace in the region’s northwest (home to top estates such as Château Cheval Blanc and Château Figeac), near Pomerol; and a sandy plain by the Dordogne river, where simpler wines are often produced.

Underground advantage

Duclos emphasises the role of centuries-old underground quarries in the west.

‘It’s very clear that the quarries buffer the soil temperature and water to an enormous degree,’ he explains, meaning that their presence enables soil temperatures to remain more stable and allows for the extraction of excess water.

These ‘perforated’ plots, he adds, begin their annual growth cycle early, regardless of winter weather, and ‘a vine that lives regularly produces fine and aromatic things – with style and robustness’.

Canon’s Audebert concurs that the starfish limestone acts as a ‘natural sponge’, regulating water via capillary action. ‘The result is a rather low but remarkably well-regulated water supply,’ he says.

Thinner topsoil on the western side allows roots easier access to limestone, promoting moderate vine growth and concentrated aromas.

At Clos Saint-Martin, with one of the appellation’s smallest grand cru classé vineyards at 1.33ha, director Sophie Fourcade says western limestone is ‘deeper and more porous’.

Other plateau zones may have harder rock and more clay, which influences both water management and mineral breakdown. Still, both sides benefit from low-pH (acidic) soils.

According to van Leeuwen, this not only brightens wines’ colour, but enhances freshness. Clos Fourtet’s Cuvelier believes the acidity boosts ageing potential while adding balance and ‘ethereal finesse’.

Limestone also aids nitrogen regulation. Arnaud d’Arfeuille of Château La Serre (just east of the town, but on the edge of the plateau) explains that calcium carbonate slows organic mineralisation, ensuring just enough nitrogen for healthy vines and strong bud formation.

Elevation helps, too: the plateau vines of Canon and Bélair-Monange (both in the west), perched at up to 87m and 88m respectively, enjoy drying winds that help prevent disease.

Estates with at least 85% limestone plateau

All western plateau except where marked as eastern (E) or both

• Château Beau-Séjour Bécot (85% plateau) • Château Canon (90% plateau) • Château Grandes Murailles (final vintage in 2021, thereafter part of Clos Fourtet) • Château La Clotte • Château La Couspaude • Château La Serre • Château Rochebelle (E) • Château Sansonnet (E/W) • Château Trotte Vieille (W/E) • Château Villemaurine • Clos Fourtet • Clos Saint-Julien (90% plateau) • Clos Saint-Martin • Les Astéries (JCP Maltus; made at Château Teyssier)

Limestone & climate change

As climate change accelerates, the St-Emilion plateau’s water retention becomes even more valuable. ‘It helps the vines effectively resist water stress,’ says Audebert.

Its cooling effect during hot summers and draining capacity in wet years ensure that grape quality remains high. Eastern-side estates once considered too cool now benefit.

‘Cooler clay is no longer a handicap,’ says van Leeuwen, citing estates such as Châteaux Gaubert and Rocheyron.

‘These terroirs, sometimes considered [to ripen] too late in the past, now provide us with grapes with a crisp fruitiness not marked by overripeness – particularly helpful for Merlot,’ adds Raveraud at Rocheyron.

Plotting the plateau: the role of limestone

Philippe Raymond of the St-Emilion wine council wasn’t able to compile a complete list of the châteaux that have limestone plateau soils.

As he explains, many producers have plots on the plateau and the hillsides, meaning it’s difficult to estimate the plateau or hillside share in a blend.

In addition, some châteaux have plots on the plateau to make a cuvée and vinify elsewhere (for example, the JCP Maltus Les Astéries bottling, vinified at Château Teyssier further south).

But he confirms at least eight châteaux have ‘verified’ 100% limestone plateau vineyards: Clos Fourtet, Clos SaintMartin, Gaubert, La Couspaude, La Serre, Le Chatelet, Sansonnet and Villemaurine.

Scores of St-Emilion estates include plateau grapes to varying degrees, from the likes of Châteaux Beau-Séjour Bécot, Canon and Trotte Vieille with mostly limestone plateau grapes, to estates such as Château Bellevue with about 10% limestone plateau grapes – and many in between.

From the ground up

The tasting underscored how subtle differences can emerge even between similar blends from vineyards just kilometres apart.

Comparisons included estates fully on the western plateau, such as Clos Fourtet, with others, such as Châteaux Ausone, Bélair-Monange and Fonplégade, that mix plateau and slope-grown grapes.

As viticulture and winemaking increasingly prioritise terroir expression, the role of the limestone plateau has become unmistakable.

Fonplégade co-owner Denise Adams describes the limestone as ‘not just another prominent component of our blend – it is the guiding thread’.

While clay-limestone slopes bring ‘roundness, richness and notes of red and black fruits’, the plateau contributes ‘tension, freshness and a more exotic floral and fruity aromatic profile’.

Ageing: how do St-Emilion wines with grapes from the limestone plateau mature?

Matthieu Cuvelier, Clos Fourtet: ‘The limestone plateau undeniably produces wines with excellent ageing potential. These wines are built on acid balances that always yield freshness and length, and aromas range from fruit to flowers, with the appearance over time of truffle, camphor and saffron notes.’

Edouard Moueix, Château BélairMonange (pictured, above): ‘After a few years in bottle, the stone notes keep supporting the dominating fruit notes of redcurrant, strawberry and blackberry, but also more floral ones such as hawthorn, lime blossom and acacia. With time the palate gains length, with powdery and rock crystal sensations.’

Nicolas Audebert, Château Canon: ‘Distinctive characteristics include minty freshness. Regardless of the vintage, bottle ageing allows for optimal wine development, preserving its original essence.

‘The terroir always takes over, allowing the expression of the limestone to develop over time, but with complex and evolved tertiary aromas appearing, albeit subtly, after 10 years of ageing, which will become more dominant over time.’

Rock of ages: 14 wines from St-Emilion’s plateau

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Georgie Hindle, Vincenzo Arnese and Robert Mathias MW tasted 55 wines, with 11 Outstanding and 28 Highly recommended

Médoc grand cru classé 2016: Panel tasting scores

55 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 11

Highly recommended 28

Recommended 16

Commended 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2016 vintage red wines from any appellation in the Médoc, including grand cru classé and second wines

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Médoc grand cru classé 2016 tasting

Positive outlook

It’s fair to say that expectations were high going into this Left Bank grand cru classé tasting, with the 2016 vintage hailed as one of the region’s finest in recent decades, celebrated for its balance, structure and ageing potential.

What began as a wet, soggy spring turned into a long, hot and exceptionally dry summer with refreshing rains just before ideal harvest conditions set in.

The result: concentrated reds with ripe tannins, bright acidity and intense fruit, drawing comparisons to 2005 and 2010 but distinguished by vibrant freshness.

A clearly successful tasting, with 20% of wines achieving the Outstanding rating, reassuringly identical to the St-Emilion GCC 2016 panel tasting in our 2023 Bordeaux guide (with 11 outstanding out of 59 wines).

Robert Mathias MW noted: ‘There’s a really good minimum level of quality. I maybe expected a little more charm, but equally I do like the seriousness of the 2016s.

‘Tannins are a bit chunky, sometimes heavy-handed in extraction and oak, yet freshness and balanced alcohol were positives. The best were excellent. I think 2016 is the first vintage in the new “modern” era of Bordeaux.’

Secondary rewards

Mathias highlighted St-Julien’s consistency and northern Médoc’s strength (Margaux was more variable), adding: ‘Second wines are drinking now, for sure, and for another five years, which is impressive, while the grands vins are more muscular and tightly coiled.

‘These are impressive wines which are fun to open to see how they develop in the glass,’ he continued. ‘But there’s not necessarily a rush to pull the cork on many of the top cru classé wines – in fact they’re quite closed.’

Vincenzo Arnese agreed: ‘Second labels are more approachable and ready now. There were a few dry wines but also real freshness across the board, with low alcohols. Some wines truly shone – and they’ll have impressive ageing abilities.’

The tasting underscored 2016’s excellence, and yet not everything was perfect.

Roughly 10% of the wines showed faults, notably cork taint and oxidation – a significant reminder of the challenges posed by traditional closures, even at the highest level.

See all recommendations from the Médoc grand cru classé 2016 tasting

What to eat with Médoc 2016, by Fiona Beckett

Given the judges’ conclusion that many of these wines are still quite closed, it’s going to be a question of what food would go best with the second wines at the moment.

Does the ‘new era of Bordeaux’ mean a new era of food pairing? Not necessarily – it’s still hard to beat the classics – but there is a growing realisation that many of the cuisines that might have been regarded as inimical to appellations such as St-Julien, Margaux and Pauillac are no longer so.

Dishes like Korean bulgogi or braised short rib, for instance. Of course, there’ll always be a place for these wines with what I would call gentleman’s club food: homely dishes like steak pie and shepherd’s pie.

Top Bordeaux can shine with a fair amount of rusticity, too. I’ve enjoyed Pauillac with cassoulet.

Traditional options are so familiar that it’s easy to overlook the elements that can throw or skew a mature wine.

An over-reduced jus, a hotter-than-usual horseradish sauce or a strongly flavoured vegetable such as red cabbage can all take their toll on a good bottle. Avoid if you can.

Médoc grand cru classé 2016 panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Georgia Hindle is Decanter’s Regional Editor for Bordeaux, and Editor of Decanter Premium online

Vincenzo Arnese is the director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year

Robert Mathias MW is senior buyer at wine merchant Lay & Wheeler, having previously worked in similar roles for Bordeaux Index and Bibendum Wine. He is a Senior Judge for Bordeaux and Burgundy at the DWWA

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We determine a ‘value’ wine at Decanter if it’s priced at, or below, £20 a bottle – or roughly US$25.

However, it depends whether you’re looking for an everyday drinker, something special to share with friends or open on the weekend, or bottles to invest in or lay down.

Scroll down for the best value Bordeaux 2022 in bottle

Value is a relative term and so is price to some extent. In Bordeaux, en primeur – and subsequent in-bottle prices – are loosely based on supply and demand and not necessarily on quality alone.

The 2022 vintage at the top end was bullishly priced and while many top wines are excellent to drink now you may find some older wines entering their drinking windows at slightly more affordable prices. Those at the lower end however will still provide excellent quality to value ratios as it was an excellent vintage across the board, at all price levels.

The generous weather conditions meant even sites that would usually struggle to achieve ripeness succeeded.

Of course, it’s worth reading tasting notes to discover the style and character of the wines, but as a general rule you can look to the Cru Bourgeois and satellite appellations of Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol, Castillon, Côtes de Bourg, Blaye and Entre deux Mers for easy drinking, characterful wines that won’t break the bank.

The below wines all received 94 points or more and offer great flavour, structure and drinkability.

Best value Bordeaux 2022

For around £20/20 euros, I loved:

• Patache d’Aux, Médoc Cru Bourgeois,
• Montlandrie, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux,
• Bel Air Gloria, Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
• Le Coteau, Margaux
• La Garde, Rouge, Pessac-Léognan
• Bel-Air, Pomerol

Around the £30 mark I really recommend:

• Mongravey, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Margaux,
• Les Cruzelles Lalande-de-Pomerol,
• Laroque, St-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
• Le Boscq, St-Estèphe Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
• Clarke, Listrac-Médoc
• Brown, Pessac-Léognan

Overdelivering for their price at or around £50:

• Batailley, Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé
• Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien 2ème Cru Classé
• Cantenac Brown, Margaux 3ème Cru Classé
• Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé de Graves

Slightly lower scoring but still excellent;

• Grand Village, Rouge, Bordeaux Supérieur
• Alcée, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
• Puybarbe, Côtes de Bourg
• Puygueraud, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves | Pomerol 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 

Best value Bordeaux 2022 in bottle

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

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A mostly excellent showing for St-Emilion in 2022 – the only major appellation to receive above average yields.

Scroll down for the top-rated St-Emilion 2022 in bottle

There are a range of styles, but in the best cases expect freshness and zingy acidity with fruit purity but still plenty of structure and length.

Vines on the limestone plateau and on clay soils in particular were successful having been able to access key water sources to withstand the drought.

‘We’ve never seen our vines resist so well – there was no hydric stress,’ said Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, co-owner and CEO of Château Angelus, earlier this year.

She gave two reasons; the first because of the team’s hard work on cover crops to keep humidity and freshness on the ground and second; the deep root system and number of old vines that were able get ‘everything they need’.

Talking about terroir

Winemaker Benjamin Laforet said: ‘2022 shows how the vineyard work was more important than in the cellar’.

Two of their wines, Tempo and Carillon, have the exact same blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc with very different expressions – the former being from limestone and the latter on deep clays.

‘It really gives us an opportunity to talk about terroir,’ he said. For me Tempo is a top value pick this vintage showcasing an easy drinkability with the Angelus flair.

At Cheval Blanc, cellar master Carole André agrees: ‘We weren’t expecting anything fresh but the vineyard adapted. The vines slowed their metabolism to keep the freshness.

‘We had tiny berries with thick skins but no sunburn’ she added. With no second wine, Petit Cheval in 2022, ‘almost all plots went into the grand vin, giving a good picture of both the vintage and the estate’.

The grand vin spent 13 months in 100% new oak with ‘good drinkability from the very beginning,’ André said.

Quality across the board

For me St-Emilion is always interesting given the size, varying terroirs and classification system – of which the new rankings take effect from 2022.

This mean Cheval Blanc, Angelus and Ausone are no longer Premier Grand Cru Classé A estates, with only Pavie and the newly upgraded Figeac in that category.

For this report I tasted 153 St-Emilion wines, with another 100 or so from the satellites (Montagne, St-Georges, Puisseguin, Lussac, as well as Castillon and Lalande de Pomerol) which will be covered in another post.

Almost 50 wines scored 94 points or above so there’s plenty of choice for excellent wines at both Cru Classé and Grand Cru levels.

Favourite wines

My two favourites were Figeac and Angelus with 100 point scores. Both wines impressed with their precision and power, and entirely separately I used the words ‘sophisticated’, ‘effortless’ and ‘moreish’ in both of my tasting notes.

Troplong Mondot was extremely impressive – sumptuous and filling but juicy and finessed. It’s a little shy but there’s plenty of potential for this wine.

At the top end can’t really go wrong with Canon, Beausejour, Clos Fourtet, Bélair Monange – all on the limestone plateau as well as Trotte Vieille and Cheval.

Pavie was charming and structured and there were great showings for Pavie Macquin, Larcis Ducasse, Laroque (which remains very good value for its quality) and La Gaffeliere.

Some wines are in the over ripe and over extracted category with opulent profiles, chewy tannins and still a lot of oak on show but many at the less expensive end will provide plenty of enjoyment and soon drinkability.

Of the wines I note as ‘great’ or ‘ones to seek out’, they include the Cabernet Franc-dominant Jean Faure on clay-gravel soils as well as Haut-Sarpe and Sanctus on clay-limestone soils.

All St-Emilion 2022 in bottle scores

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated St-Emilion 2022 in bottle

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The 2022 vintage was so dry that Pomerol winemakers petitioned for, and were granted, irrigation rights for the first time.

Some used it, though to varying degrees of effectiveness given the lack of equipment or infrastructure in place.

Scroll down for the top-rated Pomerol 2022 in bottle

Bold and seductive wines

Harvests were the earliest ever here with pretty much all the grapes picked by mid-September.

The appellation’s clay soils coped well with the drought and indeed the estates on the plateau produced some sublime wines with both richness and elegance.

Stylistically the wines are powerful and intense, fully structured with ripe fruit, chunky tannins and concentrated from the get go.

The best have acidity and freshness to counter the richness with balance overall. It’s for this reason that the wines are so compelling.

I use the words ‘serious’, ‘heady/hedonistic’ and ‘intense’ quite a lot – these aren’t shy wines, and unlike in some other appellations, they’re not wines for immediate enjoyment as a generalisation.

Seductive, fragrant and deep – these are expressive wines with expressive aromatic profiles and when they’re combined with acidity that gives energy and a light touch in the winery which gives focus they’re unbeatable.

‘Our job in 2022 was accompanying the wines from afar rather than intervening’, Lafleur’s winemaker Omri Ram told me. The team started the harvest for the reds on the 3 September in ‘beautiful conditions’.

‘We might have been expecting big, fat, flabby wines, but there’s focus and energy with concentration around’ he said. ‘We could tell the quality straight away – you could taste it in the vineyard.

‘Usually you can see the terroir better in a cool year but actually it’s very obvious in 2022. We didn’t used to get such transparency of place in hot years but it’s there.’

Less is more

In terms of winemaking, Ram said they did less in 2022: ‘The terroir gives the inherent power and density. We did even less than we would normally do in the winery. There was no reason to be super interventionist in a vintage like 2022. It’s all about taking a step back.’

The entire Lafleur range (reds and whites) including the Grand Village and Les Champs Libres wines were all excellent.

At L’Évangile, winemaker Juliette Couderc commented that in 2022, Pomerol’s climate was more like Perpignan and the Languedoc according to the Huglin Index – a tool for viticulturists to asses the daily average temperatures and the maximum temperatures and slightly modifies the calculated total according to latitude.

‘We did less pumping over and less extraction and we had to be carful about oxygen exchange during the ageing,’ she said as well as reducing the percentage of new oak.

This year the grand vin was aged in 45% new oak (as opposed to 50-55%) as well as 10% foudre and 15% amphora with the rest in used barrels.

For Olivier Berrout at Petrus the quick harvest was crucial, ‘we couldn’t wait 24 hours once we started to get good maturity,’ as well as the overall balance.

‘What I like in this vintage is that you don’t have the sense of warmth. There is no over opulence. Everything stays elegant and tight, with precise tannins.’

The ageing was shorter by two to three months to not have ‘any extra rusticity’.

As at Lafleur, ‘our job is to resist the temptation to go too far – the wine has to be good from day one’.

Berrout concluded: ‘People have changed their mindset about these kinds of vintages. There is a tendency to be more restrained now and the excellence of 2022 is down to that.’

Top wines

My standout was Château La Conseillante which was not only one of the best I’ve tasted from this estate, but also one of the most vibrant and joyful at this stage. It was relaxed and calm and totally captivating.

Close behind however was the profound Lafleur, which always takes a while to reveal its true beauty, as well as Petrus which seems to be able to handle any weather conditions thrown at the vineyard.

Vieux Château Certan was absolutely sublime with an effortless elegance – I have high hopes for the future of this wine as well as L’Eglise-Clinet that is complex and characterful. La Fleur-Pétrus also shone with brightness and depth.

Clos du Clocher, Seraphine, Clinet and Guillot Clauzel are also well worth seeking out.

It might be hard to find ‘cheap’ wines in Pomerol but there’s definitely value to be had. Bel Air, Bonalgue, de Sales, Fayat and La Pointe are solid buys at the less expensive end.

The second wine of VCC, La Gravette de Vieux Château Certan is also a stellar wine and much more like a baby grand vin than a second wine.

All Pomerol 2022 in bottle scores

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated Pomerol 2022 in bottle

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Pessac-Léognan and Graves suffered from it all in 2022 including frost, bordering wildfires and serious drought.

Vineyards received the least amount of rain from veraison to harvest compared to the other major appellations, as much as -50.7% compared to the 10 year average.

Scroll down for the top-rated Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 in bottle

Hot but balanced

It also had the hottest summer temperatures meaning irrigation was exceptionally permitted as a recourse to battle the elements.

Of course not all vines suffered the same so expect wines covering a multitude of styles from opulent and heady to lean and tense depending on the terroir.

The best have a wonderful vein of zesty acidity which counters the concentration.

Alcohols are generally low with a handful of wines at 14.5% and only one at 15% of the ones I tasted.

A top duo

My top two wines, in very different styles, were the 100-point Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, both of which wowed in their own way.

Smith’s is broad and powerful with plump fruit and persistent salinity, while Les Carmes is concentrated yet full of energy, focus and finesse.

Both wines present the signature of their estates with exceptional winemaking on show.

Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion were both impressive, with the former presenting an almost understated expression, it was more relaxed and open compared to LMHB at this point.

Both will be extremely enjoyable in a few years and will age well.

Mineral markers

For me, wines displaying terroir markers of minerality, salty stone, slate and graphite were particularly enjoyable.

These include the wonderful Domaine de Chevalier with richness and power but silky smooth tannins and bite as well as the rising-star estate Château La Garde with its limestone soils imparting succulent acidity with energy and tension.

Château Haut Bailly and Château Malartic Lagravière were also impressive.

I think that Château Trigant is a top buy and Domaine de la Solitude is another great pick to enjoy now.

All Pessac & Graves 2022 in bottle scores

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 in bottle

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St-Estephe was battered by hail and drought in 2022 causing widespread damage in the ‘hail corridor’ running through the appellation as well as stressing the vines during the height of summer.

Scroll down for the top-rated St-Estèphe 2022 in bottle

Low yields as a result gave way to many highly concentrated, fully charged wines which are still a little more firm than in other areas of the region.

There’s plenty of power and grip on show and in the best cases lots of vibrant acidity and freshness too.

In general, once these wines settle, and any remaining oak is integrated, they will provide excellent drinkability as well as ageability.

Top picks

Château Montrose and Château Cos d’Estournel were my top picks, with both bottles upgraded by a point from their En Primeur score.

Montrose particularly is one of the most impressive wines of the vintage with a sumptuous and seductive palate full of heady fruit but with gorgeous lifted acidity as well as mineral terroir markers.

Its second wine Dame de Montrose is also a fabulous wine and one of the best second wines in 2022.

Cos equally shone, presenting the vintage conditions in the weight and texture of the wine but with such elegance and finesse.

Château Lafon-Rochet (the first full vintage with ex-Lafite winemaker Christophe Congé in charge) and Château Le Boscq are both fantastic.

As of 2022, the team at Vignobles Dourthe took ownership of the vines at Le Boscq instead of renting and began the first year of organic conversion due to be completed this year.

Château De Pez impressed showing the continued work happening at this estate as well as being the first wine produced in the new cellar.

It’s a top buy with a muscular structure alongside great energy and focus. The Cru Bourgeois estates of Lilian Ladouys and Le Crock are also well worth seeking out.

All St-Estèphe 2022 in bottle scores

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Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated St-Estèphe 2022 in bottle

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• Bordeaux 2022: Our en primeur verdict and top-scoring wines
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• Five Bordeaux vintages to drink now

Both St Julien’s proximity to the moderating effects of the Gironde river, and its homogenous gravel on clay and limestone soils, helped produce some stellar wines in 2022.

The wines really showcase the vintage’s ripe fruit with muscular frames alongside purity, clarity and striking vibrancy.

Scroll down for the top-rated St-Julien 2022 in bottle

Power play

The wines in general are slightly less soft and charming at this point than some other appellations with many still tightly knitted, firm and shy.

Indeed, for the top-scoring wines, I consistently noted the ‘power’, ‘muscles’, ‘grip’ or ‘strength on show’ in my tasting notes and commented on ‘ageing potential’ as opposed to immediate or soon drinkability.

However, if you’re looking for low alcohols in 2022 this is the place to come with all but two wines at 14% ABV or under.

Both Lagrange and Talbot’s grand vin clock in at 13.5% ABV and Talbot’s second wine Connteable is 13% ABV.

Upgrades galore

More than half the 22 St-Julien wines tasted scored 94-points or above with the top-scoring estate, Château Léoville Las Cases, upgraded from 98-points en primeur to 99 in bottle.

It’s extremely well crafted showcasing undeniable power with energy and focus. The estate has been renovating its winemaking cellar – joining the grape reception and barrel cellar – to allow the team to do more parcel by parcel, gravity-led vinifications.

Châteaux such as Ducru-Beaucaillou, Gruaud-Larose, Branaire-Ducru and Léoville Barton also shone, as did Lagrange and Léoville Poyferré.

In terms of relative value, Branaire looks like a top pick with 97-points at around €50 (£42) a bottle.

The estate is on the rise under the helm of owner François-Xavier Maroteaux and winemaker Jean-Dominique Videau and the prices have yet to climb to those of its fellow classified estates, which are at the upper end of €100.

Lagrange and Langoa Barton are also around the €50 mark.

For second wines, Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré is good buy at around €25 with succulence, juicy acidity, layers of complexity and a finessed feel.

All St-Julien 2022 in bottle scores

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Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated St-Julien 2022 in bottle

Related articles

• Bordeaux 2022: Our en primeur verdict and top-scoring wines
• Wine investment: Market malaise hits Bordeaux prices
• Five Bordeaux vintages to drink now

Given the size of the Margaux appellation, and its varying terroirs, it’s often hard to generalise on quality, but in 2022 it performed excellently for both classified and non-classified wines.

Scroll down for the top-rated Margaux 2022 in bottle

Hints of opulence

Margaux usually delivers some of the most charming wines on the left bank, with pronounced floral aromatics and silky tannins giving a smooth mouthfeel that set them apart from the more structured and robust tannins found in the wines from neighbouring appellations.

The softer texture comes from the soils which are predominantly gravelly with some sand and clay – depending on how near or far they are from the moderating Gironde estuary.

In 2022, the charm is amplified with plenty of ripe fruit flavours, fleshy tannins and hints of opulence while keeping expressive aromatics. The best managed to deliver this glossy richness but with mouthwatering acidity as well as precise and finessed tannins.

A vintage apart

During the 2022 in-bottle tasting at Château Margaux, CEO Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos and winemaker Philippe Bascaules remarked that they thought they might age the wines longer than usual because of this density.

However, the ‘wines were much softer with well integrated tannins’ so they kept the bottling to July as usual.

Bascaules said: ‘2022 is one of the best vintages for sure,’ but, ‘also one that cannot be compared with any other’.

‘You can compare 2018 with 2019 and 2020, but 2022 is set apart because of the concentration and because of the alcohol’, he said. Yet the wines retain low pHs giving incredible freshness alongside a sense of brightness and lift.

‘1961 and 1986 stand out because they were respective firsts to reach a certain level of ripeness and concentration and 2022 is the same,’ he concluded.

Fruit and freshness

For me, châteaux Brane-Cantenac, Rauzan-Ségla and Palmer all delighted, as did Cantenac Brown, Giscours and d’Issan.

In terms of wines to seek out that you may not have had before, I particularly enjoyed Château Le Coteau and the ‘Margaux’ appellation wine from Maison Sichel.

I also thoroughly enjoyed the range of single-terroir wines from the Durfort-Vivens vineyards (certified organic) made by Gonzague Lurton.

Les Plantes, designed to showcase the ‘freshness and fruit’ of the appellation, really shone with vibrancy and punch. The Durfort grand vin was also exceptional, and although a bit shy now feels well made.

With the exception of a few wines, you don’t have to wait too long to tuck into these wines and although many will age well, there’s lots of enjoyment to be found in their youth.

All Margaux 2022 in bottle scores

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Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated Margaux 2022 in bottle

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Pauillac always seems to deliver the goods and in the hot and dry vintage of 2022 the gravel soils coped extremely well.

Scroll down for the top-rated Pauillac 2022 in bottle

Cabernet Sauvignon, the appellation’s backbone, seemed to adapt well to the vintage conditions, and tempered them with modest alcohol levels compared to many other appellations.

The result is a series of wines that balance power with freshness and classicism.

‘We’ve never had such extreme conditions,’ Lafite’s winemaker Eric Kohler told me during the in-bottle tasting. ‘Even with all my experience, I had never seen that level of stress, but at the end we have probably the most incredible wine I’ve ever done in my life.’

He continued: ‘In the vineyard it didn’t seem like it was going to be good in 2022, but that’s the magic of our job, after 30 years of experience of this estate and terroir you can always be surprised. It seems we were more anxious than the vines’.

For Latour’s winemaker, Hélène Génin, the wines appeal due to their lack of ‘solar vintage’ markers.

She said: ‘The 2022s are surprising because of their balance. You could imagine a more solar, plumper, heavy vintage but it’s not like that. The grape maturity was great – it was easy to extract in those conditions so you needed to take attention of tannins and alcohol and also find a good balance in terms of barrels for ageing.’

Adjusting the élévage

It was a similar story at Mouton where winemaker Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy opted for a denser grain to the barrels with a lighter toast to amplify the freshness. ‘The key was to elongate the wines rather than make them broader,’ he said.

Danjoy added: ‘The 2022 vintage will be recognised for a very long time as one of the greatest with wines that defy the weather. It’s historical in the sense that it’s a stage we haven’t seen before. It’s a vintage that helped us recognise how we and the vineyards can handle the climate.’

At Pauillac fifth growth Pontet Canet, winemaker Mathieu Bessonnet shorted the ageing period to 12 months, two less than usual, and finished the wines in concrete tanks to retain freshness. ‘The key was to manage extraction, we didn’t need added power’.

The 2022 certainly shows an early accessability with bright fruit and lots of finesse.

My favourite overall wine was Lafite for its ability to belie the vintage, presenting a delicate and graceful wine with 13.7% ABV, beautifully pure fruit and precision from start to finish.

But there were many outstanding bottles that will delight for years to come.

Top-scorers and best value

Top scorers:

Château Lafite Rothschild – 100 points

Château Mouton Rothschild – 99 points

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – 99 points

Château Latour – 98 points

Château Pichon Baron – 98 points

Château Batailley – 97 points

Château Lynch-Bages – 97 points

Château Pontet-Canet – 97 points

Great value:

Château Fonbadet – 94 points

Domaine Les Sadons – 94 points

Château Pibran – 93 points

See all Pauillac 2022 wines

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Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

St-Estèphe 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated Pauillac 2022 in bottle

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The 2022 vintage presented vines and winemakers with untold challenges of heat and drought, but having re-tasted the Bordeaux 2022s now in bottle, several wines stood out for their beauty, precision, structure and pure deliciousness.

In case you need a re-cap of the vintage conditions and weather related difficulties in 2022, you can find them in my En Primeur vintage analysis and first thoughts article and more recently a summary of my findings and thoughts now that the wines have been aged and bottled.

But I thought it was worth highlighting six wines, all of which surpassed the expectations of the vintage and delivered elegance, structure, purity, balance – and ultimately delighted in their own way.

Bordeaux 2022: Wines from a superb vintage revisited in bottle

They’re wines where excellent viticultural efforts were joined by precise sorting, well-judged vinifications with soft extractions, and ageing with optimal oxygen and wood exchange.

The wines are not all similar in style – it would be boring if they were – but each wine manages to convey the vintage’s power and concentration while still maintaining not only a sense of place, which I think is extremely important, but also excellent drinkability.

That’s not to say these wines won’t change from here on out – they will mature and evolve, as all fine wines do – but as young wines they are incredibly impressive.

Of the six 2022s that I’ve upgraded to 100 now they are in bottle, I gave four of them 98 points during En Primeur (my highest score that campaign) and two 97 points.

There are three wines from the Left Bank and three from the Right Bank, showing that both Cabernet and Merlot performed well when handled correctly in 2022.

There are also a number of exceptional wines now in bottle that I’ve upgraded to 99 points: Lafleur, Léoville-Las Cases, Montrose, Mouton Rothschild, Petrus, Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Troplong Mondot.

Below I’ve listed my six 100-point wines from 2022, explaining why they’re great, or why I love them, as well as my official tasting notes.

Château Angélus

En Primeur score: 97 points

A fabulous Angélus which really expresses the best parts of the vintage, with incredible freshness, energy and precision.

It’s a culmination of all the work the estate has been doing over the past few years, not only with organic viticulture but also with cool macerations and fermentations and ageing, especially using foudre.

Tasting note: A vintage of precision and aromatic purity, this is one of the finest Angélus wines ever made. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the nose is heady and complex, filled with dark chocolate, cherries, blackcurrants, violets and rose.

On the palate, it’s silky, scintillating and fresh, with a crystalline clarity and balance that feels almost effortless. Chalky yet creamy tannins add depth, while flashes of heat and liquorice spice on the finish bring structure and length.

Juicy, deep and incredibly moreish, this dances across the palate with finesse and vibrancy. A wine of energy, persistence, and sheer sophistication. 100% new oak (50% Cabernet Franc in foudre). 3.7 pH. 75 IPT.

Château Figeac

En Primeur score: 98 points

The vintage that saw Figeac upgraded to St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé A, this is a stunning wine from winemaker Frédéric Faye that showcases the warm vintage but with a quintessentially classic style.

The team conducted the harvest in several stages, picking grapes block by block and used its state of the art winery to great effect to deliver a fabulous 2022.

Tasting note: This wowed during Primeurs and has maintained its promise now in bottle. Gloriously alive with a beautifully expressive nose – dark fruit, liquorice and floral scents.

The energy on the palate is incredible: this pulses with life, given the high acidity and juicy red berry fruit, but it also has a touch of creaminess alongside softly fleshy tannins that give weight and structure.

There’s power and concentration, almost hidden beneath the cooling freshness and charming texture. Effortless winemaking on show, taking the best of the vintage’s ripeness and delivering a seriously sophisticated, endlessly moreish expression. I love it! A perfect wine.

Château La Conseillante

En Primeur score: 98 points

La Conseillante continues a great run of vintages under the helm of winemaker Marielle Cazeau. This stands out as a beacon of excellence with such juiciness and mass appeal.

Fast becoming one of the best and most consistent Pomerol estates, I love the 2022 for its ease and confidence but also a sense of lift and happiness you get from drinking it.

Tasting note: The best La Conseillante I’ve ever tasted. Intensely fragrant on the nose with blackcurrants, cherries, roses and violets. Juicy, bright and alive. The acidity is the star, lifting the expression from the start.

Unlike many Pomerols that lean dark and tense, this is relaxed and smooth, with silky tannins supporting summer berry fruit and a finish of cool blueberries, liquorice, crushed stones, slate and minty cola.

All the elements combine to captivate: joyful, vibrant and so drinkable, yet built to age. Effortless winemaking from Marielle Cazeau.

Château Lafite Rothschild

En Primeur score: 98 points

Lafite always seems to deliver a grand vin that defies expectations no matter the conditions. This is one of the few wines that, to me, really doesn’t scream 2022.

It’s bright and forward with lovely integration of tannins and a gentle aspect which is really captivating. Nothing is over the top, such is their minimal interventionist style.

Organic viticulture (a portion also farmed biodynamically), double sorting, gentle extractions and lightly-toasted barrels all contribute to this sensational wine.

Tasting note: Deep, dark and restrained, offering cool black fruit with hints of cocoa and sea spray minerality. Poised and perfumed, it glides across the palate with Lafite’s signature elegance.

Tannins gently frame the red fruit, achieving seamless balance. Subtle yet commanding, with layers of refinement, depth and completeness, and a minty, stony, crystalline purity. A masterpiece of understatement and precision. I love this wine!

94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Organic. 18% press wine.

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

En Primeur score: 98 points

In warm or hot vintages, winemaker Guillaume Pouthier particularly excels using cover crops to manage hydric stress, whole-bunch fermentations to reduce alcohol, and reductive ageing to maintain energy and focus.

This is another exceptional example of his winemaking, which reinforces the Cabernet Franc-driven estate signature with such complexity and control. It’s a very modern wine with precision and focus.

Tasting note: Deep and brooding, this wine is beautifully floral with violets, irises and peonies alongside ripe black cherries, liquorice and dark chocolate. Concentrated yet bursting with energy, it flows effortlessly.

Vibrant red fruits – strawberry, cherry, raspberry – sit atop a mineral backbone of saline, wet stones. Crisp yet powdery tannins and bright acidity give incredible tension.

Despite its depth, it feels almost weightless, so drinkable yet built to age. Pure, pristine and vibrant, with no trace of heat – just balance and finesse. A true expression of place. A sure-fire hit. 70% whole bunch fermented.

Two years ageing, 80% new oak, 10% big 20hl vats, 10% amphora. 3.55 pH.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte

En Primeur score: 97 points

In addition to its organic practices (certified in 2019) Smith Haut Lafitte uses a number of tools both in the vineyard and winery to craft wonderful wines, including cover crops and extended cool macerations as well as excellent use of oak.

I love the 2022 for delivering a bold style – almost the opposite of Lafite, if we were to compare them side by side – but which has the most wonderful texture and lovely terroir markers.

Tasting note: Deep and evocative on the nose, bursting with blackcurrants, milk chocolate and a touch of Black Forest gateau wrapped in a sweet, purple floral perfume. The palate is instantly captivating, both silky-smooth and luxuriously thick – like padded silk – cushioned yet structured.

Tannins seamlessly support a vibrant mix of red and black berries – redcurrant, cherry, blackcurrant – all interwoven with precision. Broad and powerful, yet it glides effortlessly, with Cabernet’s structure, Merlot’s generosity and a dash of spiced fruit.

Underlying minerality and flint-like nuance add complexity. A masterclass in power and precision, perfectly balanced and unmistakably Smith.

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022

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Compiling the in-bottle report is a fascinating experience. Readers may find it overkill that we taste roughly 900 wines, prepared for early assessment in the April after harvest, and then taste the same wines again only 20 months later.

It’s mostly dictated by Bordeaux’s en primeur system, which allows for the purchase of and investment in wines whose barrel-maturation is as yet incomplete, but it’s a remarkable exercise in tracking a wine’s early progress.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of a selection of top red wines from Bordeaux 2022

This is only my second consecutive ‘primeurs to in-bottle’ report, but unlike 2021, where many wines changed dramatically over the course of that period, the 2022s have largely remained consistent.

Indeed many of my tasting notes feature exactly the same descriptors.

There’s a general understanding that when wines taste well at the en primeur stage they will likely stay more open and pleasurable in the future.

Of course wine changes – some close down (their aromas and flavours becoming subdued) and then re-open, and the character of wines will inevitably change as they mature.

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

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BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | St-Emilion 2022 | Cru Bourgeois 2022 | Dry and Sweet whites 2022

But the 2022s have emerged as wines out to please. As a group they are highly charged and powerful with an impressive amount of fruit, tannins and alcohol, yet they are refined and balanced with a sense of classicism.

Focus on freshness

The phrase ‘record breaking with unprecedented hot and dry conditions’ wouldn’t usually foretell success for a Bordeaux vintage; however, the 2022s seem to defy logic.

Some put it down to improved viticultural endeavours over the past two decades – the wines are far superior to those from the very hot 2003 vintage – while others assert that the vines were stressed from the start, so they adapted themselves better for the long haul.

Harvest dates, grape sorting and vinifications also played a part: cooler fermentations, lighter extractions and sporadic uses of whole-bunch fermentation to lower potential alcohols, as well as the use of concrete containers and amphorae to retain freshness during the maturation process.

2022 at a glance

Overall red wine vintage rating: 4.5/5

• A vintage of extremes, defined by intense heat and drought, yet remarkable resilience in the vineyards.

• Small berries yielded concentrated, structured wines with deep fruit intensity, firm tannins and elevated alcohol.

• Precision in vineyard management and winemaking was crucial, with early picking and gentle extraction preserving freshness.

• The best wines display energy, refinement and surprising balance despite the warmth. While some wines lean heavily into power, the finest examples achieve a rare combination of richness and vibrancy.

• Bordeaux 2022 is a vintage of immense character, which has produced wines that are both seductive in youth and capable of long-term ageing.

Hits and misses

The best 2022 reds have a combination of ripe and concentrated fruit flavours – verging on opulent, exotic and heady, which you’d expect from a warm vintage, but not jammy or confected – with extreme aromatic intensity, sleek frames and refreshing acidities.

They are poised, characterful and more importantly pleasurable. Some have more plush and chewy tannins, while others are more streamlined.

Fruit purity is a common thread – unsurprisingly given the excellent harvest conditions with no threat of rot.

The worst wines are overly charged, overripe or overextracted with short finishes and drying tannins.

In some the (new) oak isn’t fully integrated, meaning they’re still too spiced and toasted, and in others alcohol is an issue – some will require a good few years to soften and resolve.

In general, alcohol levels this year are higher than normal but not excessively so, although certainly above 2021 with some pushing 15% and 15.5%.

New-school styling

The vintage largely favours reds over whites (which I have rated at 3.5 out of 5), although there is a strong cohort of dry whites (not covered in this article) with Semillon coping well in the conditions.

They are generally less vibrant and exhilarating than in 2021, but they have a nice richness of body accompanied by zingy acidity in the best examples.

The sweet wines are similarly intense and opulent with less overt acidity and high residual sugar levels, although there are some standout bottlings.

What I love most about the 2022s is their approachability. Unlike in previous years, I have received the majority of samples at home, and more than once I have found myself pouring a glass from one of the bottles to enjoy that evening.

The notion that we have to leave red Bordeaux for at least five years before opening doesn’t apply to most 2022s.

While these wines will certainly age, some for a very long time, don’t be afraid to buy and open them as you would a Rioja or Chianti Classico.

I also found that serving the wines slightly cooler than usual worked in their favour, highlighting the freshness and minimising heat from the alcohol.

Wines on the rise

Now in bottle, the following wines have seen their score raised by Georgie Hindle, Decanter‘s Bordeaux Regional Editor, since she first tasted them en primeur:

Château Angélus, St-Émilion, Grand Cru (EP score 97) 100

Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A (EP score 98) 100

Château La Conseillante, Pomerol (EP score 98) 100

Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé (EP score 98) 100

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (EP score 98) 100

Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves (EP score 97) 100

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 2ème Cru Classé (EP score 98) 99

Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol (EP score 97) 98

Château Pavie, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A (EP score 96) 97

Château Séraphine, Pomerol (EP score 94) 96

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves (EP score 95) 96

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé (EP score 94) 95

Château Saint-Georges Côte Pavie, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé (EP score 92) 95

Les Perrières de Lafleur, Bordeaux Supérieur (EP score 93) 95

Château Montrose, Dame de Montrose, St-Estèphe (EP score 92) 94

Château de Camensac, Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé (EP score 92) 93

Château de Fonbel, St-Émilion, Grand Cru (EP score 90) 93

Château La Chenade, Lalande-de-Pomerol (EP score 92) 93

Château Trigant, Pessac-Léognan (EP score 90) 92

Across the board quality

Overall, the 2022 vintage rewarded meticulous vineyard management and precision winemaking, allowing estates to craft delicious wines despite the extreme conditions.

However, it also ‘levelled the playing field’, as it were, for consistency. While the finest terroirs naturally excelled, many lesser-regarded sites also produced standout bottles, benefiting from the warmth that ensured better grape ripeness than in previous years.

No single appellation dominates, although I still love Margaux as I did during primeurs.

Also, cooler sites in the north of the Médoc, Listrac-Moulis and Entre-deux-Mers, as well as areas on limestone in Fronsac and Castillon, all did very well.

However, outstanding wines can be found across Bordeaux, including many red second wines, which are generally very good.

When it comes to buying, the 2022s arrived on the market bullishly and prices can’t be lower now than they were for en primeur – but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some great value wines to be found.

It’s near impossible to whittle down more than 800 tasting notes into a selection of 36, but the selection on the following pages represents a combination of great quality and top value.

Some wines might not enter their ‘peak’ drinking windows for another 5-10 years – and will last beyond that – but I have chosen wines I think are ready to be enjoyed now or very soon, depending on your taste preferences.

Bordeaux 2022: Highlights of the vintage from Decanter‘s Bordeaux Regional Editor

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• Wine investment: Market malaise hits Bordeaux prices
• Five Bordeaux vintages to drink now

Launched in 1997 with the simultaneous release of 1993 and 1994, this Super Tuscan was born as a collaboration between two formidable wine families: Robert Mondavi brought California’s modern sheen to Frescobaldi’s rustic Tuscan charms.

Over the years, Luce has garnered high praise for its opulence and power.

To chart its history, I sat down with 30th generation and company president, Lamberto Frescobaldi for an exclusive interview with Decanter and a vertical tasting of all 30 vintages.

Scroll down for notes and scores on all 30 vintages of Luce

Before diving in, I ask Lamberto about the birth of Luce. ‘It was really thanks to [Robert] Mondavi,’ he replies. Speaking of him fondly, Lamberto gives context to Mondavi’s mindset when he connected with Lamberto’s father, Vittorio in the early 1990s – a full two decades after resolving to making a wine in Italy.

‘Opus One had taught him and his kids that there is no such thing as a perfect wine,’ asserts Lamberto, who credits the joint venture with the Rothschilds in Napa Valley for attuning Mondavi to place over grape variety.

‘Bob was smart enough to understand that he wouldn’t make a wine on his own,’ Lamberto continues, explaining that, in Vittorio, he recognised a like-minded entrepreneur.

Leading the project for the Mondavis, Robert’s son Tim was particularly struck by Castelgiocondo in the luminous southwestern expanse of Montalcino. Despite being in the heartland of Sangiovese, it was Lamaione – a 100% Merlot – that initially inspired Tim.

This interloper was planted in the 1970s, when the property was under French ownership.

A UC Davis graduate, Lamberto was managing the vineyards when the Mondavis arrived, and collaborated with Tim to create the Luce prototype. He recalls their early conversations. ‘Do we want to make another wine? Not really. Do we want to learn something between us? Yes.’

‘The idea to blend Sangiovese and Merlot was quite unusual at the time,’ he states, adding that it didn’t compete with other wines the two companies already made. Calling himself the ‘cowboy’, Lamberto sought the power and sexiness of Merlot, while it was Tim who favoured the firmness of Sangiovese.

‘Sometimes we were arguing, and I would exclaim, “Luce isn’t Brunello!”.’

The richly textured, generously fruited, lavish style of Luce has long made that clear in the glass.

Standing alone

Touting the partnership, bottles bore both families’ names until Mondavi sold to Constellation in late 2004. Shortly after, Frescobaldi exercised its option to buy Mondavi’s 50% stake in Luce. Following the split, both the Robert Mondavi and Frescobaldi signatures were removed from the label.

‘The idea was for Luce to stand alone,’ says Lamberto.

Nevertheless, an amicable relationship between the two families has endured. ‘Most of the time, collaborations don’t work,’ Lamberto declares. ‘But in this case, it did.’

He considers Luce a new beginning for Frescobaldi, which is significant for a family that boasts seven centuries of history in agriculture and winemaking.

‘We started transferring what we were doing at Luce to our other wines, giving more care to everything from pruning, selection and picking to vinification, managing malolactic fermentation and ageing.’

Honed winemaking

While the Super Tuscan boom has largely waned, Lamberto asserts that ‘Luce has strengthened’. Still based on approximately equal proportions of Merlot and Sangiovese – only the cool, wet 2002 vintage has ever deviated from this – production has been appreciably honed over the years.

Today, Luce is selected from the property’s 92 hectares, which are distinct from the 200ha of sister estate, Castelgiocondo. Rising from 270 to 418 metres, 21 unique parcels are categorised by five different macro-soil types.

Sangiovese is planted at higher altitudes on predominantly schist, versus Merlot which sits at slightly lower elevations on sandy clay. Organic certification for all the vineyards was achieved in 2015 (although as of 2024, the company is re-evaluating if this is the right approach to attain the highest quality grapes).

Ermanno Morlacchetti has been the head agronomist since 2000. Besides ongoing research of clones and rootstocks, he cites two key improvements in the vineyards: meticulous pruning to preserve the health of vine wood, and soil management to encourage water permeation.

‘We evaluate our work every week,’ he says. ‘It is less standardised than 20 years ago.’

Renowned oenologist Niccolò d’Afflitto continues to oversee all of Frescobaldi’s estates exclusively. The Luce della Vite brand also has its own dedicated winemaker, focusing solely on the stable of Luce, second wine Lucente, Cabernet Sauvignon-based Lux Vitis and Luce Brunello.

Bordeaux-trained Alessandro Marini assumed the role of head winemaker in 2020. With an aim to preserve freshness, he favours picking earlier.

In the cellar, ‘I am looking for balance immediately,’ he remarks.

Doing better

While originally made in the same facility as Castelgiocondo, Luce has had its own cellar since 2017. ‘We have become much more precise,’ explains Lamberto, citing the beneficial role of new technology. ‘In the past, we were crossing our fingers. Now we have many more tools.’

The oak regime has also evolved: by 2005, Luce was being aged in 100% new French oak barriques. ‘You had to in those days,’ Lamberto declares. They began easing up on the use of new oak in 2011, reaching up to 20% of second-use barriques as of the 2018 vintage.

Luce is still noticeably oak-driven in its youth, however recent vintages – particularly from 2015 on – demonstrate greater refinement of oak and tannins with better balance of fruit.

Though a bit awkward, the noughties wines are not without gems – 2008 being a particular highlight. And as for the older wines, they are time capsules of a different era and provide a baseline for what has been achieved over the years. Those from the 1990s are fully developed, with an impressive rally from the 1996.

‘Tasting the older vintages makes you feel younger because they bring back memories,’ says Lamberto as he recounts making the first trial blends with Tim. ‘Bob showed up and said, “this wine is terrific; it has complexity. But I know you can you do better.”’

From 28,000 bottles in the first vintage, Luce has reached an annual production of 130,000. Lamberto does not foresee increasing quantities further. He describes Luce as ‘a young wine with much to prove’ and his focus is on improving quality.

‘Our goal is for Luce to stand proudly among the world’s finest wines.’

Robert Mondavi’s comment about doing better has clearly become Lamberto’s mantra.

Luce: 30 years of progress

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Masseto has spent nearly four decades in the top echelon of the wine world, carving out a space for itself in millionaires’ cellars alongside first-growth Bordeaux and garagiste Pomerol, grand cru Burgundy, top-end Napa Valley Cabernet, and the other great Super Tuscans.

Its success is no mean feat if you consider that, at the time of its launch in the 1980s, the coastal Tuscan region of Bolgheri was better known for the quality of its fruit and vegetables than for its red wines.

Notes and scores for 10 vintages of Masseto (and one of Massetino) are listed below

First there was one

There was one exception, a Bordeaux blend, which had, until that point, been reserved for private consumption: Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia. Owned by Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, uncle of Lodovico Antinori and his older brother, Piero, he had offered the distribution of his wine, to his nephews.

In return, Piero Antinori offered Mario the services of his oenologist, Giacomo Tachis, who honed the wine into a commercially viable wine. The first release was the 1968 vintage in 1971.

Spurred on by this project, as well as the Antinori projects of the 1970s, Tignanello and Solaia, Lodovico strove to create a wine of his own that could compete with Sassicaia on its own terms.

In 1981, he founded Tenuta dell’Ornellaia and released the estate’s maiden 1985 vintage several years later.

While Ornellaia had been a predetermined business decision, the pure-Merlot Masseto was more the result of good fortune combined with sound judgement. The Ornellaia estate was largely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with some Petit Verdot and Merlot making up the blend.

A small portion of Merlot was planted in 1984 on a hill of Pliocene-era blue clay, the site of an old brick factory, which Lodovico’s Russian-American winemaking consultant, André Tchelistcheff identified as ideal for the cultivation of Merlot.

From Antinori to Frescobaldi via Mondavi

Just two years later, the Merlot grapes grown on the hill were deemed to be of such impressive quality that the decision was made by Lodovico and his Russian-American winemaking consultant, André Tchelistcheff, to bottle a wine separately, labelled as ‘Merlot dell’Ornellaia’.

The following year, 1987, it was simply labelled ‘Masseto’, underlining the faith Lodovico and his team had in this new project. The wine, made in small quantities, not only achieved overnight success but continued to gain plaudits through the 1990s.

In 1999 – in a move which he later went on record as saying was a big mistake – Lodovico Antinori sold a minority stake of Ornellaia to Robert Mondavi, perhaps to raise funds for the Tenuta di Biserno project in Bibbona, which was launched in collaboration with Piero in 2001.

Mondavi purchased the remaining shares in 2002 and subsequently sold half to Antinori’s rivals, the Frescobaldi family.

The Frescobaldis bought the remaining shares in 2005, following the sale of the Robert Mondavi company to Constellation Brands, taking full ownership of the property, and so was complete the transfer of one of Italy’s finest estates from one historic winemaking family to another.

Why Masseto?

It’s the temperature excursions between the heat of the day and the coolness of the evenings – influenced by the proximity to the coast in front and the Metalliferous Hills behind – that make the wines of Bolgheri so exciting.

Wines made here are ripe yet balanced, typically with bright freshness and leafy, balsamic tones despite the summer heat. It’s a haven for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and more.

Especially important for early-ripening Merlot, the cool evenings and gentle breeze slow down the pace of sugar ripening, while the blue clay found in the Masseto vineyard ‘pushes the moment of maturity later in the season’, according to production director Marco Balsimelli.

This ensures that phenolic ripeness is achieved in harmony with sugar ripeness, producing tannins that are perfectly ripe at the time of picking. The tannins, velvety and at times almost imperceptible, are a key signature of Masseto.

How they manage to stay out of the limelight while giving enough structure to support the wine for decades in the cellar is a beautiful paradox.

But it’s not just terroir that has made Masseto into a megastar; without Lodovico and Tchelistcheff, the star qualities of the wine would never have been recognised in the first place.

And following the Frescobaldi acquisition, it was CEO Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja who masterminded its La Place distribution in 2009. Only the third wine outside of Bordeaux to be distributed in this way, its tiny allocations soon reached every corner of the globe and elevated Masseto to a true luxury brand.

Tasting Masseto

An evening with Frescobaldi president, Lamberto Frescobaldi and production director Marco Balsimelli, overseeing both Ornellaia and Masseto, at Raffles London at The OWO in November 2024 was a rare opportunity to taste several vintages of Masseto side by side.

The current release, the 2021, was sublime, as was the cool 2013 vintage. The 1995 and 1996 were captivating, but for me, the 2006 was impeccable.

It would be extremely difficult to find disappointment in any vintage of Masseto, but 2006 confirms itself as a momentous Italian wine for the 21st century.

Masseto in 10 vintages

(Plus Massetino 2022)

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Gareth Birchley, Vincenzo Arnese and Arthur Coggill tasted 111 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 79 Highly Recommended.

St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015: Panel tasting scores

111 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 79

Recommended 18

Commended 4

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2015 vintage red Bordeaux grand vins from St-Emilion Grand Cru and Grand Cru Classé, and Pomerol

If you asked the vignerons of Bordeaux to predict the quality of the 2015 vintage before a single bud had even burst, many of them would have stated that greatness was inevitable.

It is, of course, purely chance that 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010 were all contenders for the finest vintage in their respective decades.

Nevertheless, in 2015, the universe acquiesced and gave the Bordelais a tricky but incredibly favourable growing season.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the pick of St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015

St-Emilion’s pyramid proves its worth

After tasting 111 wines blind from both St-Emilion and Pomerol in this warm vintage, the quality was evident. Vincenzo Arnese commented that, at 10 years old, you see ‘all their purity and integration’. From top to bottom, there was certainly a coherence and commonality between the wines that I would, if pushed, summarise as ‘ripeness’.

The key was simply managing the fruit to produce fresh, balanced and ageworthy wines. The task was, in general, simply to not spoil the fruit in the winery… but that’s easier said than done.

Despite showcasing different styles, St-Emilion was incredibly consistent. It does feel as if there was still a desire, from some properties, to over-extract the fruit, leaving those wines stewed and lacking definition.

Indeed, Arthur Coggill commented: ‘It was surprising to find so many wines still in thrall to the old style favoured by Robert Parker, and so for me, the 2015 vintage marks the highwater mark for the Parkerised style.’

The very best châteaux managed tannin perfectly – super-fine and wonderfully silky, with incredible length. The judges did note, however, that it was a shame not to see the full cross-section of the commune.

Among the 77 St-Emilion wines tasted, only six were 1er Grand Cru Classé (of the 14 ranked as such in the 2012 Classification, which applied at the time) – and their quality was a marked step up.

Thrilling consistency

Across the border in Pomerol, the quality was also incredibly consistent. Arnese commented: ‘Overall, Pomerol showed a surprisingly lifted style. I was expecting more ripeness in the final result, yet the sample showed good balance and purity.’

More of the ‘big names’ were submitted, which gave a much more coherent cross-section of what the region bottled in 2015. The styles produced were also far less variable than in St-Emilion.

Bordeaux’s en vogue appellation produced charming wines across the board, more perfumed and floral than their neighbour’s, with very little over-extraction, allowing the vineyards and terroir to speak.

I suspect that this is as consistent as a broad tasting of mid- to top-end Bordeaux can be. None of the wines exhibited the green, underripe character we often find in this maritime climate.

At the lower end, Bordeaux still has a lot of work to do in matching both the quality and value for money found in many regions outside France. That said, it was encouraging to see many of the top performers proving their worth and rising to the top.

I’m a firm believer that, at above £50 a bottle, pound for pound, Bordeaux provides better value than most other wine regions in the world. If you buy the best wines from this vintage, you will not only find pleasure now, but for decades to come.

St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Gareth Birchley is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. Arriving in London in 2006, he worked in sales and senior buying roles at Bordeaux Index and Berry Bros & Rudd, before joining Burns & German in early 2019

Vincenzo Arnese is director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year

Arthur Coggill is head of business development at London-based merchant Hatton & Edwards, having joined in January 2024. Prior to this he was at Goedhuis & Co, where he worked initially in fine wine sales before running its investment fund for eight years, and then moving into buying in 2021

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I, and a host of London’s top sommeliers and journalists, were incredibly privileged to join owner Louis Mitjavile for a masterclass and lunch at Goodman back in May for what was an incredibly illuminating afternoon.

For those unaware of who Louis is and what his father François Mitjavile’s impact have been on Bordeaux, the name that might be more familiar is Tertre Roteboeuf.

Originally founded in 1975 it is an offshoot of Château Bellefont-Belcier, on a prime position at the southern edge of St-Emilion’s famed limestone plateau, next-door to Château Pavie and in front of Château Troplong Mondot.

Scroll down for notes and scores of L’Aurage and Roc de Cambes

François took the 6 hectares that was owned by his wife and her cousins and created a Bordeaux that is truly singular.

A philosophy that is atypically Bordeaux, with a monolithic focus on just one wine per estate and cru, and achieving in their mind the optimum ripeness of their grapes – what Louis’s father calls ‘degraded ripeness’.

With a line-up of five wines over the meal, Louis was disarmingly charming, a great host and at times very contrary to what one would normally expect of a Bordelais château owner.

When asked what his vision was for L’Aurage, which he bought with his wife Caroline in 2007, he replied he was not clever enough to have ambitions but wanted to build on his family’s legacy of success.

Much like Tertre Roteboeuf and Roc de Cambes (which his father bought in the 1980s), L’Aurage has just one wine per year, a true expression of the property from one vineyard in one vintage.

He admits that this does add some pressure, as no mistakes are allowed given there is no plot selection, or multiple wines to blend from.

Ultra ripeness

Picked later courtesy of the warm clay and limestone soil from 100% Merlot vines, the goal is to make a rich and opulent wine, but not one that is simply deep and concentrated, a wine that has very mature tannins, with a ‘degraded’ character, that is almost on cusp of losing the brightness of the fruit at point of harvest.

Louis compares his grapes at picking to the tomatoes you’d get at the market – you don’t choose the underripe and sour fruit for use in your soup or salad, you buy the tomatoes that are bursting with flavour.

He’s certainly not afraid to lose acidity in pursuit of fully mature tannins but knows that balance of acidity and higher alcohols is paramount when you pick at such extreme ripeness.

Judged well, and the higher level of alcohol for Louis adds roundness and richness to the wines.

While the focus on ripeness may from the outside be the sole concern, Louis and his father are adamant that the upbringing or elevage of their wines, and more specifically the oak treatment is equally important to their success.

All three properties use 100% new French oak, but only from one cooper, Radoux, and it is the level of toast, as well as the time spent in-barrel that truly completes their wines.

For those vintages that may be on the fuller side, they might aim for a light toast to bring out mint, coffee and vanilla notes, as well as several rounds of racking, moving wine from one barrel to another, to increase oxygenation.

Louis followed this with the example of the 2023 where they chose a medium toast, but a shorter elevage time in barrel and with fewer rackings.

The Mitjavile philosophy may reach completion in the cellar, but it starts in the vineyard.

A particular character

We were all surprised to learn that what are considered the fashionable and modern Bordeaux viticultural practices, such as sustainable agriculture and cover-crops, Louis and his family have been practising them for decades, as far back as the early 1990s.

Although not adherents to organic or biodynamic practices that Louis considers too restrictive, he believes that the current move towards healthier farming can only be good for St-Emilion, and wider Bordeaux.

Touching on the appellation, Francois’s approach was always to champion the region on the global stage, and support it where he could, but for both father and son the appellation classification was not for them.

And how are the wines themselves? It has to be stated for the record that the Mitjavile style is not for everyone.

The emphasis on optimum ripeness, and near degradation can lean towards a style that is atypically Bordeaux and not in keeping with what you would expect from a Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, but the complexity and quality that they achieve in bottle as well as the affordability is certainly something that is worth a second look.

L’Aurage and Roc de Cambes:

Wines are grouped by estate and youngest to oldest vintage

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Beneath the towering Himalayas, the realm of the Gods, a new wine country has been born.

On 21 October, Bhutan – ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’ – officially joins the global stage with the release of its first vintage.

This beautiful, secluded Buddist kingdom, graced by dramatic mountains, lush valleys, roaring rivers, shimmering lakes and an ancient yet ever-evolving culture, is now home to a pioneering wine venture.

Founded by American dreamers, Michael Juergens and Ann Cross, in partnership with the Bhutanese government, the Bhutan Wine Company aspires to capture the essence of the Thunder Dragon’s terroir.

Known for its commitment to Gross National Happiness (GNH) and its pristine environment, Bhutan might seem an unlikely candidate for wine production.

Yet, these very qualities have given rise to what could become one of the world’s most intriguing wine regions.

The genesis of this venture is a tale of serendipity and vision. Juergens, a business consultant and aspiring Master of Wine, and his wife Cross, a brand management expert with a WSET Diploma, first visited Bhutan in 2017.

Bottling Bhutan

What began as a bucket-list trip soon evolved into a pioneering enterprise.

‘I looked at it and said, this place has the potential to make some of the world’s greatest wines,’ Juergens recalls.

‘Everything that you eat [in Bhutan] is the most flavourful thing you’ve ever tasted. So I figured you could probably grow some interesting wine grapes.’

Captivated by Bhutan’s diverse microclimates and pure environment, Juergens drafted a proposal for the Bhutanese government, outlining how a wine industry could align with the country’s development goals, GNH policy, and status as the world’s only carbon-negative nation.

Recognising the potential for an entirely new, high-value, low-volume product that could showcase Bhutan to the world, while promoting sustainable agriculture, preserving cultural heritage, and generating income opportunities for rural communities – all key pillars of GNH – the response was enthusiastic.

By 2019, the first vines were in the ground. This merging of American entrepreneurialism with Bhutan’s adaptive cultural framework has given rise to a unique venture that respects local traditions while pushing viticultural boundaries.

Karma Choeda, chief operating officer of the Bhutan Wine Company, emphasises the cultural significance: ‘For the people and the country, it will be a matter of pride to say that we are able to grow grapes and produce wine in Bhutan.

‘Being a small country sandwiched between two giant nations [India and China], we have always placed great importance on our identity.

‘And to be able to capture and promote the essence and identity of Bhutan in a good bottle of wine will make the Bhutanese people very proud indeed.’

A mandala of microclimates

Bhutan, slightly smaller than Switzerland, offers a remarkable diversity of microclimates within its tropical lowlands, high-altitude valleys and abundant river and lake regions.

The venture has identified four distinct climate zones and two primary soil types – alluvial sand by the rivers and red clay on the hills.

Currently, about 80 hectares of vineyards span the country, cultivated across nine sites.

This diversity allows for an extraordinary range of grape varieties. ‘We’re going to have the Loire Valley equivalent here, doing Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, the Rhône equivalent there doing Syrah, Bordeaux over there doing Bordeaux varietals, and we’ve got Burgundy Pinot Noir,’ Juergens enthuses.

‘We’ve got the microclimates to do all of that. We’ve just got to figure out which is which.’

Unlike the French appellation system, however, there are no rules. With no prior history of viticulture, Bhutan is a vinous blank canvas.

Monkeys in the vineyard

High altitudes, with some vineyards reaching up to 2,700 metres, contribute to intense UV exposure and significant diurnal temperature variations.

Combined with Bhutan’s famously pure water and unpolluted air, viticultural conditions are optimal.

Pioneering an entirely new wine country is not without its unique challenges. Wildlife management tops the list, with monkeys, cobras and leopards posing threats in the vineyards.

‘We don’t have red blotch [a vineyard disease], but we have monkeys!’ Juergens exclaims, highlighting the need for innovative solutions like electric fences and anti-venom protocols.

Matt Brain, the company’s Californian winemaker and a professor of oenology, shares his perspective on the challenges: ‘Growing world-class grapes in the country with no prior experience will take some time.

‘Vineyard teams will need to learn best practices in a variety of environmental conditions. And we will need to continue to explore the suitability of different varieties in different soils, altitudes and weather patterns.’

A new harvest

Adapting to local agricultural practices has been another hurdle. Bhutanese farmers, accustomed to maximising yields for other crops, are gradually coming around to the counterintuitive practice of reducing yields to enhance wine quality.

The diverse terroir and long growing season – harvests span from June to October due to altitude differences – allow for experimentation.

With 16 varieties in the ground, early results have been promising across the board, with Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling showing particular promise.

Juergens describes the Pinot Noir as ‘the darkest you’ve ever seen, and at the same time the lightest, most ethereal you’ve ever tasted’.

Brain adds: ‘It is too early to say where our chosen varieties will excel best, but we are seeing different varieties beginning to show a great deal of promise at these early stages.’

As one might expect from a country without a single fast-food chain or traffic light, the aim is not for globalised ‘recipe’ wines.

Rather, the venture has set its sights on terroir-driven wines that reflect the unique characteristics of each microclimate and soil type.

As Bhutan pours its first wines, there’s a palpable sense of excitement and pride among its citizens.

The wines were presented first to the kingdom on 12 October, ahead of the global release on 21 October.

Building a wine culture

The project has been embraced as an opportunity to showcase Bhutanese culture and values to the world through the universal language of wine.

In the capital, Thimphu, a wine bar and tasting room has been established to foster a local wine culture, doubling as an educational hub.

The venue offers a rotating selection of international wines and the company’s Ser Chem range, featuring bottles adorned with Bhutan’s dragon symbol.

The name ‘Ser Chem’ refers to the traditional ritual of offering alcohol to the gods by dipping the left ring finger into the glass and flicking droplets into the air – the Bhutanese equivalent of ‘cheers’.

Bridging tradition and innovation, this Buddhist kingdom may well become the rising star in the world of wine.

The dragon awakes.

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Russian-born enologist André Tchelistcheff – whose name still evokes a hushed reverence among California winemakers – famously once quipped that ‘it takes Rutherford Dust to grow great Cabernet Sauvignon.’

‘Rutherford Dust’ is a term that’s now so inextricably intertwined with Napa Valley’s Rutherford sub-appellation that in 1994 – several decades after Tchelistcheff’s remark – it inspired the name of the Rutherford Dust Society (a non-profit association of winegrowers and vintners dedicated to the promotion of the AVA).

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores of some top Rutherford wines

While relatively small at just over 15 square kilometres and 1,600 hectares under vine, Rutherford’s name looms large in the annals of Napa Valley and California wine history.

Certain vintages dating back more than 80 years are often cited among the greatest wines ever released in the Americas, including the 1941 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon, 1970 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 1985 Caymus Special Selection.

What exactly is ‘Rutherford Dust?’

As explained in Maestro: Andre Tchelistcheff and the Rebirth of Napa by James O. Gump, it was André Tchelistcheff who coined the term ‘Rutherford Dust’ as a shorthand for the region’s unique terroir; a tell-tale clue that could be recognised in the bottle by experienced tasters.

For many wine professionals, Rutherford Cabernet has undeniably ‘dusty’ and mineral qualities to its tannins, giving it a unique mouthfeel, even when compared to Cabernets sourced from nearby Oakville and St. Helena.

Critics have long noted the ‘dusty’ quality of Rutherford Cabernet tannins, which often combine stony mineral aromas with fine-dusted cocoa powder without diluting the palate’s silkiness.

A definitive scientific link between Rutherford’s soils and those dusty tannins might elude us. However, sampling enough top-end Rutherford reds makes it difficult to imagine that unique quality coming from any other region in the world.

What makes Rutherford so unique?

Much of the Rutherford terroir rests on the valley floor, at Napa’s widest point between the Vaca and Mayacamas mountain ranges.

It’s a geographic location that awards vineyards with ample sun exposure, even by California standards, with over 3,000 growing degree days and enough sunlight for grapes to achieve high phenolic ripeness levels before late-season pest or disease pressure begins to over-stress vines.

At the same time, cooling fog influence from San Pablo Bay 35 kilometres south, coupled with strong diurnal temperature shifts of more than 6°C helps maintain acidity and mitigate the heat.

It’s a true ‘Goldilocks’ zone for premium Cabernet Sauvignon, with temperatures often cooler than Napa Valley regions to the north, and warmer than those to the south.

Those who planted vines early in Rutherford’s history hit literal wine pay dirt. The conditions proved quite favourable to vine health and longevity, so much so that Rutherford boasts some of the longest-running continuously farmed vineyards in Napa Valley.

A handful of those sites are responsible for sourcing some of Napa’s most prestigious reds, particularly Beaulieu Vineyard, J.J. Cohn Estate, and Morisoli Vineyard.

While many factors converge to make Rutherford a special Napa Valley area, Quintessa winemaker Rebekah Wineburg points out” ‘Special doesn’t mean good. It needs to be deciphered. That kind of puzzle needs to be formed and understood. And at the same time be replicated year after year.’

Rutherford AVA at a glance:

Appellation established: 1993

Total AVA area: 6,650 acres (2,691 hectares), centrally located in Napa Valley, primarily on the valley floor located at the widest part of the Napa Valley AVA.

Area under vine: Over 1,600 hectares (4,000+ acres)

Number of producers: 48

Vineyard altitude: 47-152 metres above sea level

Key white varieties: Sauvignon Blanc

Key red varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot

Average yearly temperatures: 10-35°C

Average annual rainfall: Approximately 965 mm.

Noteworthy vineyards: Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III, Beaulieu Vineyards, J.J. Cohn Estate, Morisoli Vineyard, Hewitt Vineyard, Sacrashe Vineyard

Notable producers: Alpha Omega, Bella Oaks, Beaulieu Vineyard, Cakebread Cellars, Caymus, Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards, Frog’s Leap, Grgich Hills Estate, Honig, Inglenook, Mumm Napa, Peju, Provenance Vineyards, Quintessa Winery, Round Pond, Scarecrow Wine, Sequoia Grove, Staglin, St. Supery Vineyards & Winery, Sullivan, Swanson, Toquade Wines, Whitehall Lane.

Geological churn

Much of that decoding has gone into analysing the complex soil makeup of Rutherford’s best vineyards for ideal farming practices, which inevitably leads back to that ‘Rutherford Dust’ character in the wines.

The soils result from millions of years of geologic churn, which created a complex alluvial fan known as the Rutherford Bench.

Part of that soil complexity is due to an ancient landslide off the Vaca Mountain range.

‘It wasn’t just a simple landslide’, explains Wineburg. ‘The white soils are pure volcanic ash, the lytic ash that flowed continuously over the western face of the Vaca mountains. On top of it was sandstone, some shale, volcanic rocks, and, interestingly, some conglomerated alluvium. The uplift and the volcanic activity happened quite fast.’

Throw in ample gravel deposits, loam, and Franciscan marine sediments, and you have the formula for naturally well-draining soils that force Cabernet vines to create a deep root structure in search of moisture – the perfect combination of factors to grow premium wine grapes for age-worthy fine wine.

Notable Rutherford producers:

Quintessa

Quintessa was founded in 1989 by renowned Chilean vintners Agustin and Valeria Huneeus, who planted vines there in 1990. Today, the winery is part of Huneeus Vintners, which owns Benton Lane, Faust, Flowers, Leviathan, and Favia.

Quintessa’s 113-hectare estate includes 64ha of planted vines, divided into three primary sections – the Eastern Hills, a mix of ancient volcanic uplift, sandstone, shale, and alluvium stemming from the Vaca mountain range; Central Hills of gravel and cobbles surrounding a lake, and a clay, sand, and gravel Bench surrounded by native woodlands.

Twenty-six separate vineyard blocks are organically and biodynamically farmed. Rebekah Wineburg and consultant Michel Rolland work together in the cellar.

For the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Carménère, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc vines on the property, the team is ultra-focused on micro-expressions of terroir.

Slow, meticulous re-plants are hyper-focused on pruning and rootstock choices, all to ‘better reflect the terroir and be as transparent as possible for the next 30 years’, says Wineberg.

Sullivan

James O’Neil Sullivan founded the 10.5ha Sullivan estate (on a site that Tchelistcheff helped select) in 1972, immediately gaining notoriety by employing architect John Marsh Davis to design his home and production facility.

In 2018, the estate was acquired by a family partnership led by Juan Pablo Torres Padilla, who was inspired by a visit to Burgundy legend Romanée-Conti and chose the site after a three-year search of more than 100 properties.

Padilla brought in Peter Michael veteran Joshua Lowell as General Manager, Schramsberg alumnus Jeff Cole as winemaker and veteran Vineyard Manager Mike Wolf.

They soon set about replanting the estate to take better advantage of its prime Rutherford soils, noting that, ‘Jim Sullivan loved the over-the-top style, but our goal was to make big category wines in a more refined and elevated way’, says Padilla.

Their quality focus continues with the acquisition of the coveted Criscione Vineyard in St. Helena (once a source to BOND). Cole’s immense talent in the cellar shows a deft hand at balancing power with gorgeous Rutherford minerality.

Beaulieu Vineyard

BV’s enigmatic founder, Georges de Latour, made a fortune selling cream of tartar, a byproduct of tartaric acid residue. After selling the business in 1900, he purchased the property that would become Beaulieu Vineyard – a name coined by Latour’s wife, Fernande.

In 1903, they bought a property that would start it all – BV Ranch Number 1. Meanwhile, de Latour was importing vinifera vines grafted on St. George Rootstock from his nursery in Paris.

Their 100 years of history make them one of Napa Valley’s longest-running wineries, and legendary late cellar master André Tchelistcheff is widely regarded as reinventing what we now know as modern winemaking during his tenure.

Beaulieu Vineyard wines have been served to Presidents, Queens, and Princes, and the flagship Georges de Latour Private Reserve (produced since 1936) has taken on particular historical significance as an early example of a top-tier California Cabernet.

Today, Chief Winemaker Trevor Durling is tasked with carrying on their impressive legacy.

Bella Oaks

Bella Oaks founders Belle and Barney Rhodes were early pioneers of the now-standard single-vineyard, icon-level Cabernet Sauvignon offering, once selling Cabernet to Heitz Cellar.

They also helped to set the standard for wine education and food and wine hospitality, which today is a primary driver of tourism to Napa Valley. Their largely untold history attracted current owner Suzanne Deal Booth, founder of The Friends of Heritage Preservation, who purchased Bella Oaks in 2010.

After selling fruit to the neighbouring Staglin Family Vineyard, Deal Booth decided to reinvigorate the Bella Oaks brand, bringing in Winemaker Nigel Kinsman (of Araujo and Wheeler Farms) and blending consultant Michel Rolland, along with vineyard manager David Abreu.

Morisoli Vineyard

The Morisoli Vineyard is a contiguous 21ha site planted on ancient alluvial runoff from the Mayacamas Mountains, neighbouring Inglenook and Joseph Phelps.

Still family-owned, this grower-producer is run by third-, fourth-, and fifth-generation family members Melody, Gary, and Christopher Morisoli, whose Swiss ancestor, Rocco Morisoli, settled in the area in 1883.

Longevity is the lynchpin for the Morisol team. Vineyard foreman Jose Garcia has been with them since 1989, and longtime Beaulieu Vineyard winemaker Joel Aiken has consulted since 2009.

Producers who buy their grapes include Sequoia Grove, Amici, Trujillo, V. Sattui Winery, Taub Family, Etude, Elyse Winery, and Robert Biale Vineyards.

The wines of Rutherford: 10 top bottles

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The scale of the Bordeaux wine industry dwarfs that of most other regions and, in some cases, countries.

Although hard to be precise, recent statistics show a vineyard area exceeding 110,000 hectares, with over 6,000 individual producers.

Bordeaux numbers over 50 distinct appellations, many of which link to a range of quality and regional classifications.

Ten crus bourgeois recommendations listed below

Classification tiers

The revered Bordeaux Grands Crus Classés classification of 1855 tops the pyramid, with many areas having their own systems, e.g. St-Émilion and the Graves.

Nestling under the Grands Crus Classés is the significant Cru Bourgeois classification, comprising three ascending quality tiers – Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

Every 10 years the crus bourgeois are re-evaluated. The most recent review in 2020 identified a total of 249 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, with 179 designated Cru Bourgeois, 56 Supérieur and 14 Exceptionnel.

The 249 producers accounted for 31% of the Médoc’s production, 28% of the area under production, and an annual total of 28 million bottles.

Geographically, cru bourgeois is dominated by producers from the Médoc and Haut-Médoc, with a smaller number from St-Estèphe, Margaux and Listrac & Moulis, and just one in Pauillac.

Making changes

The Bordeaux wine industry has undergone dramatic changes in the past two decades. For many years, the region has had a reputation for the highest quality top-tier wines, with remarkable longevity but with price levels to match.

But the cheaper Bordeaux wines did not always have the best reputation, with many producers focusing more on yields rather than ripeness.

As newer, high-performing areas developed around the world, changes were necessary.

Today, the situation has progressed further. As the climate has changed, so have the pressures on producers, ranging from excessive rainfall and disease pressure, to drought.

Consumer demand has altered, with a new wave of drinkers looking for wines which are approachable when young, more fruit driven, and many are keen to taste wines crafted in a more forward-thinking, less interventionist, way.

Into the limelight

Cru bourgeois wines have neatly stepped into the limelight as they offer virtually the same quality as the Grands Crus Classés but at much more affordable price-points.

They also embrace environmental initiatives and have adopted many of the latest winemaking techniques – reduced use of (new) oak, greater emphasis on terroir character and increased use of alternative maturation vessels such as concrete eggs and amphora.

These are wines which offer high-quality, the ability to drink while young yet also age for a decade or more, whilst delivering great value for money. So, who are the producers to look out for?

Ten cru bourgeois to know

Château Arnauld, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel

Statistics: 18 hectares, average vine age 40 years, 60,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 52%, Merlot 43%, Petit Verdot 5%

Founded at the end of the 17th century, Arnauld lies in the village of Arcins. Now part of the Vignobles de Larose group, significant investments have been made since 2014 including a new vat room and barrel hall.

Michel Rolland acts as a consultant here. The current focus for Arnauld is on greater finesse through changes in extraction and maturation.

Pre-fermentation maceration for eight days at 5°C, pigeage and delestage (rack & return) for extraction, together with lower fermentation temperatures, are supported by increasing maturation in vats to promote fruit and freshness.

The winemaking team now only use Burgundian barrels, believing these are better suited to their style.

In future, expect to see Merlot and Cabernet Franc matured in amphora and 400/600l casks. Arnauld is a dynamic producer which lives up to its ‘Exceptionnel’ status.

Château Larose-Trintaudon, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur

Statistics: 197 hectares, average vine age 28 years, 750,000 bottles

Blend: Merlot 47%, Cabernet Sauvignon 44%, Petit Verdot 9%

With a history dating back to 1719, the highly distinctive château at Larose-Trintaudon dominates the vineyard.

After years of decline, in 1963 the estate was purchased by the Forner family (owners of Marquès de Caceres) with large-scale vineyard replanting under the guidance of Emile Peynaud.

The large vineyard is remarkably homogenous with 70% stony and sandy gravel, and 30% limestone-clay.

In 1986, the château became part of the Allianz group. There is a strong focus on environmental impact – the estate is a member of Vignoble Responsable and is certified by the Terra Vitis association.

Frank Bijon (President of the Alliance of Crus Bourgeois and Chief Winemaker and General Manager) says, ‘we think that a sustainable vision across all aspects of the wine business (production and sales) is the best strategy.

‘Taking care of the environment using only organic and bio-control products to protect the vineyard, and taking care of the people and our territory.’

Château Mongravey, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur

Statistics: 14 hectares, average vine age 30 years, 90,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 61%, Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 4%

A family-owned operation, Mongravey was established in 1981, becoming Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel in 2018.

Today Régis, Jérôme and Karin Bernaleau create some fine Margaux wines from this small vineyard with several plots and nine distinct parcels.

Karin explains that: ‘We are adapting to the younger consumers looking for less oaky wines while keeping our Margaux typicity.’

She expands on changes in the winemaking process: ‘We have stopped pumping over for extraction and now use the R-Pulse system which allows for a softer extraction and silky tannins.’

Mongravey is also experimenting with clay amphorae to finesse tannins and fresh fruit aromas, together with a focus on High Environmental Value certification, CSR, hedge planting and reducing water/electricity consumption.

Frequently a high-scoring wine, Mongravey offers great value and is well-worth seeking out.

Château Le Crock, St-Estèphe, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel

Statistics: 32 hectares, average vine age 41 years, 100,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 57%, Merlot 33%, Petit Verdot 5%, Cabernet Franc 5%

Le Crock is both a top-performing St-Estèphe and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, and has been owned by the Cuvelier family (owners of Château Léoville-Poyferré) since 1903.

Sara Lecompte Cuvelier is Managing Director, Yoann Lavigne (Cellar Master) and Isabelle Davin (Winemaker at Le Crock/Léoville-Poyferré) in charge.

The 32ha comprises three distinct areas with gravel/sand on the surface over clay sub-soil.

The estate anticipates organic certification in 2025, with the latest focus on bio-diversification in the vineyard as well as modifications fermentation/maturation with the use of 550l ‘double’ barrels and 750l amphora.

Cuvelier notes that the, ‘crus classés carry with them a lot of prestige, yet the cru bourgeois brings a more familial style among the team and owners.’

Extreme weather conditions are seen as the main threat with extended periods of hail a particular risk, countered by the estate employing a balloon protection system.

Château Laffitte-Carcasset, St-Estèphe, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur

Statistics: 35 hectares, average vine age 30 years, 110,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 35%, Cabernet Franc 5%

Originally created in 1759, current owner, Pierre Rousseau, acquired the estate in 2016 and between 2019-2022 invested heavily in the estate, including building a new winery.

Laffitte-Carcasset now employs conical tanks crafted out of steel or concrete, individually thermo-regulated and adapted to specific grape varieties and plots.

The winemaking team believe that some primary fermentation in new barrels is beneficial in improving the integration of the wood, while amphorae are used selectively for Merlot to enhance fruit and aromatics.

The estate renewed 50% of the vineyard in 2019 following a detailed analysis of soils, enabling a precise match of grape varieties to individual plots.

Laffitte-Carcasset is a powerful, sturdy and characterful wine which emphasises the rugged style often seen on the St-Estèphe plateau.

A weighty, deeply coloured cru bourgeois with plenty of ageing potential.

Château d’Arsac, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel

Statistics: 53 hectares, average vine age 27 years, 200,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Merlot 30%

The history of the estate goes back almost 1,000 years to the Lords of Arsac. In 1986 it was acquired by Philippe Raoux, with the château in ruins and the vineyard area having reduced to just 3ha.

The ‘diagonale‘ slash on the label indicates the merging of tradition with the new. There are now 53ha planted out of the 103ha on the estate.

Fermentation is in stainless-steel cuves prior to ageing in 50% oak (half-new, half one-year-old) and 50% tank.

The estate was promoted to Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel in 2020, and features as one of the Bordeaux Tourist Offices ‘Art & Wine’ trail sites.

As with many of the leading cru bourgeois, sustainability and the environment are a key focus, with the château obtaining the HVE level 3 – the top level.

Château Paveil de Luze, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel

Statistics: 32 hectares, average vine age 35 years, 200,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Merlot 30%

Dating back to 1862, Paveil de Luze is a seventh-generation family domaine. It was previously run by the energetic Frédéric de Luze, who did much to promote the revitalised Crus Bourgeois du Médoc association before his untimely death in 2016.

The estate continues in family hands, run by his sisters Marguerite and Catherine.

There is a strong environmental drive here, with HVE 3 certification achieved, and a bio-diversity approach utilised for the whole vineyard under the guidance of the Derenoncourt consultants.

Marguerite de Luze identifies the estates current key challenges as ‘adapting to climate change while maintaining our identify and not losing the style of Margaux.’

She also notes the impact of climate change on grape ripeness, observing ‘the excellent ripeness of Cabernet Sauvignon in recent years has led us to increase the proportion in the final blend (90% in 2023).’

With recent vintages, the property has produced wines with plenty of ripe, forward fruit, yet balanced by a refreshing mineral character.

Château Patache d’Aux, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois

Statistics: 58 hectares, average vine age 40 years, 250,000 bottles

Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 50%, Merlot 44%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%

This substantial 58ha property was owned by the Knights of Aux from 1632 to the French Revolution, after which the château became a coaching inn.

Antoine Moueix is now the proprietor. Despite the long history, many changes are underway. Clément Holtz (Assistant General Manager) notes ‘consistency is the most important issue’ and that ‘the weather changes more frequently than we can adapt, so we must be flexible and keep on innovating’.

The new cellar features small tanks from 75 to 175hl to allow plot-specific fermentation. The winemaking team also utilises lighter extraction, together with some whole-bunch vinification to ‘bring fresh and floral aromas’.

There is also a focus on clonal selection – in 2021 an experimental block was planted with 26 clones of the main Bordeaux varieties on 11 different rootstocks, and in 2022 a separate clonal selection project using the château’s 90 year-old Cabernet Sauvignon commenced.

Château Moulin Rouge, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur

Statistics: 27 hectares, average vine age 45 years, 100,000 bottles

Blend: Merlot 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Cabernet Franc 10%

Château Moulin Rouge is a family-owned estate dating back 13 generations, located in the commune of Cussac-Fort-Médoc, between Margaux and St-Julien.

The vineyard lies on many gravel mounds. Owner (Geoffrey Ribeiro) stresses the importance of sustainable methods, and that the estate has obtained HVE 3 certification.

Ribeiro highlights changes made at the estate to meet challenging demands from both consumers and the climate, saying that, ‘we try to extract softer tannins than a decade ago, with shorter pumping overs’.

He adds: ‘We have purchased 500l barrels for several years – the objective is to get a good balance between freshness, fruit flavour and oak.’

Moulin Rouge remains a more classically styled Haut-Médoc wine, with concentration and structure for longer ageing. This is an estate to follow for those seeking less exuberant fruit.

Château Poitevin, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois

Statistics: 25 hectares, average vine age 26 years, 160,000 bottles

Blend: Merlot 55%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35%, Petit Verdot 10%

The family estate of Château Poitevin is situated in the northern Médoc, very close to the Gironde estuary.

With a vineyard composed of limestone and gravel lying over clay subsoils, the estate primarily focuses on red wines but also makes a high-scoring white wine from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.

Originally, the Poitevin family were bakers in the village of Jau-Dignac-Louriac, before their love of the vine took them in a new direction.

From 1991, Guillaume Poitevin followed in the footsteps of his father and grandfather, expanding the vineyard area and building a new winery.

The property became a Cru Bourgeois in 2003 and Supérieur in 2018, with the estate working towards organic certification from the 2023 vintage.

With Merlot taking the lead at Poitevin, the wine achieves an excellent balance between ripeness and drinkability, together with the concentration and structure for ageing.

All delivered at a very fair price.

Ten Crus Bourgeois to try

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Dror Nativ MW, Ben Gubbins and Andy Howard MW tasted 52 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 19 Highly Recommended.

South American Merlot: Panel tasting scores

52 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 19

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still red wines labelled as single-varietal Merlot, from any recognised appellation in South America and consisting of a minimum 85% Merlot

Merlot rarely gets the limelight. This is particularly true of Merlot from South America, where signature regional varieties – Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, Uruguayan Tannat – dominate. Merlot is often overlooked, or blended with other varieties.

However, this panel tasting of 52 wines demonstrated that Merlot has the capability to surprise and delight, particularly when sourced from the continent’s cooler regions.

While Tannat accounts for more than a quarter of plantings in Uruguay, Merlot at 615 hectares accounts for about 10%, the third most-planted (INAVI, 2023). Of the six Uruguayan Merlots tasted, the three Highly recommended wines all hail from Maldonado, where cool Atlantic breezes seem to work their magic on this variety.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the South American Merlot panel tasting

The powerhouse

Argentina may be known as a Malbec powerhouse, yet five of the 11 Argentinian Merlots tasted were rated 90-points or more. Two Outstanding wines emerged from the cool south of Patagonia.

Ben Gubbins noted that the Merlots from this region showed a distinct blue-fruit profile. Riccitelli Old Vines Merlot from the Patagonia sub-region of Río Negro stood out for its likeness to cool-climate Syrah, showing beautiful aromas of violets and crushed black pepper. The Otronia 45 Rugientes comes from Patagonia’s wild and windswept Chubut sub-region; its racy acidity and refined style breaks the Merlot mould.

Not unexpectedly, Chile dominated the tasting. At 10,651ha, Merlot is the third most-planted variety here (8.3% of plantings, according to SAG data for 2022), after Cabernet Sauvignon (28.8%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11.2%). The country fared well, with 43% of the 35 Chilean wines scoring 90pts or above.

Two Outstanding Chilean Merlots were uncovered. Cousiño Macul’s Jardín de Macul was celebrated for its combination of hedonistic opulence and ageworthy concentration, dubbed by Andy Howard MW ‘a fine advert for Maipo Andes’ in the inland east of the region.

The Bournet Lapostolle family’s Cuvée Alexandre also impressed the judges with its structure and ageability.

See all the wines from the South American Merlot panel tasting

Cellarworthy

In fact, the capacity of Chilean Merlot to age, alongside its remarkable value, was what most astonished the panel. Gubbins noted: ‘There is definitely something to be said about the ageability of these wines.’ And Howard agreed: ‘I think you can keep them longer than you might suspect.’

Eleven of the Chilean wines tasted were from the 2018-2020 vintages and more than half scored 90pts and above. Incredibly, at the time of tasting, seven were available at less than £15 a bottle: an impressive, and rare, ratio of value to ageworthiness.

South American Merlot may be less fashionable, but in terms of drinkability, ageability and value, it compares very favourably to Merlots from more established regions around the world.

South American Merlot panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Dror Nativ MW is a wine buyer for major retailer Marks & Spencer, responsible for South America as well as Bordeaux, Burgundy, England, Champagne and sparkling wine. Having begun his career in the hospitality sector, he has also worked in varying roles at Hayward Bros, Spar and Sainsbury’s.

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

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Ever since St-Émilion turned away from the so-called ‘Parkerised’ style of viticulture and winemaking, the region has become a prime hunting ground for drinkers seeking a delicious Bordeaux bargain.

Scores of superb Grands Crus Classés ranging in price between £30 to about £45 a bottle offer excellent value for money.

Rather than being oaky, over-ripe and over extracted, most of the 71 Grands Crus Classés today reflect freshness, wet stone minerality and brighter ripeness from quality limestone and clay soils.

But one of the top St-Émilion Grands Crus Classés – Château Laroque – had never been a ‘Parker Darling’.

Scroll down for a mini-vertical of Château Laroque

Less than a decade ago, it flew under the radar, with a classical style of winemaking that was sometimes rustic, but never overdone or big.

From 1982 to 2014, estate director Bruno Sainson crafted refined wines that reflected the impressive terroir of St-Émilion’s largest château.

Thanks to his guidance, Château Laroque – which had been famous in the 19th century – re-emerged to the rank of Grand Cru Classé in 1996.

Reaping the rewards

Château Laroque has gained increased recognition in recent years, with critics worldwide heaping justified praise upon it.

As the taste for extracted, overripe styles has receded, demand for wines like Château Laroque have risen.

Secondly, rather than doubling down on the classicism, in 2015 the owners – the Beaumartin family – hired enologist David Suire to add precision and smoother tannins to an existing classical style, elevating quality.

In his first year, Suire worked with Sainson to understand the estate, while contributing his valuable experience with Premier Grand Cru Classé neighbours Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse and Château Larcis Ducasse.

Molasse and Merlot

The estate has long been renowned for its soil. Laroque itself takes its name from the local limestone. Early in his new tenure, Suire oversaw a soil study to improve site selection and vine management.

The study confirmed the estate’s outstanding terroir, revealing different ‘climats’ (small vineyard areas), which has led to much more refined decision making when it comes to managing and harvesting the various plots of Merlot.

The team made hundreds of excavations in 2015 to redefine plot selections, revealing the purest expression of soil types.

Immediately surrounding the château, the plateau’s limestone rock comes close to the surface as it does with Clos Fourtet and Château Canon, creating chestnut-coloured clay topsoil.

Towards the east lies a layer of red clay and Agenais molasse (layers of clay and gravel), like that found at Château Pavie Macquin and Troplong-Mondot.

The east-facing clay terraces, like the west-facing slopes, are made up of Fronsac molasse (limestone-clay-sandstone), the same as found at Ausone and Tertre Rôteboeuf.

A small part of the vineyard lies in the plain, made up of brown soils derived from the erosion of limestone outcrops, the production of which does not go into the first wine.

Greater selection

The estate has also been more careful in harvest selection for the first wine, compared to the Sainson era.

For example, Suire uses only the heart of the press wine to always ensure the best quality juice. The estate today has no less than three labels, with up to half of the harvest used for the grand vin.

The estate also now emphasises massale selections of Merlot, using genetic stock from a subset of Merlot clones that were planted in the wake of the devastating 1956 frost.

Readers may notice that the latest blends are nearly 100% Merlot. Many in St-Émilion are advocating replacing Merlot with Cabernet Franc in response to climate change.

But Château Laroque’s massale-selected Merlots ripen more slowly than the clones planted throughout the region in the 1970s and 1980s. These slower-maturing Merlots help counter climate change and are ideal for the limestone and clay terroir of the estate, Suire says.

Indeed, even as alcohol levels rise, freshness stays high thanks to low pH levels at Château Laroque.

In addition, Suire has been lowering the percentage of new oak from around 50% to 25% in the most recent vintages.

His team also has been increasing the use of larger oak vessels for ageing – up to 9,000-litre oak casks – which better integrate tannins and yield more subtle aromatics, he says.

Importers taking notice

‘We follow the estate, which has been one of the great deals and – up until 2021 – always sold out en primeur,’ says Phil Bernstein of Washington D.C. importer MacArthur Beverages.

‘The 2018 was the first vintage that really blew up for USA sales-wise and the 2019 even more.’

Bernstein praises Suire: ‘The wine has improved dramatically with David at the helm, and I find it to be very serious for the price – a wine that should age well,’ he explains.

Château Laroque’s success is reflected through its wide distribution. Despite its being the largest estate in the appellation, ‘it is still relatively tough to get an allocation,’ Bernstein points out.

Historical setting

Château Laroque’s 12th century tower flaunts its nine centuries of history. Flanked by a more recently built Baroque façade, the estate sits prominently on a limestone plateau south of the village of St-Christophe-des-Bardes.

With its dry moats, it still resembles the stronghold it was during the 100 Years War, defending the western approaches to St-Émilion.

Château Laroque has been owned by several families over these many centuries and was used for multiple agricultural purposes.

But in the 19th century, Maurice Dufaure de Rochefort, an enthusiast of St-Émilion wines, focused on vine-growing, at a time when Bordeaux wines were achieving international acclaim.

By the end of that century, Château Laroque was producing 300,000 bottles per year. The de Rochefort family also constructed the elegant façade adjacent to the surviving medieval tower, which led to the moniker ‘the Versailles of St-Émilion’.

The 19th century proved a golden age for Château Laroque. Sadly, however, phylloxera, bankruptcy in World War I and the Great Depression reduced the vineyard to only six hectares, and the estate was left abandoned.

The first generation of the Beaumartin family acquired the six hectares under vine, plus 78 hectares of woodland in 1935.

Initially, the family looked upon Château Laroque as a vacation home, but, after the 1956 frost, the second generation cut down the trees and planted vines.

The estate has undergone a renaissance in the 20th century, first under Sainson and now continuing under Suire.

The next chapter of this historic estate is well underway.

About Chateau Laroque

Established in the 12th century.

Size of estate: 84 hectares with 61ha under vine

Owners: The Beaumartin Family

Winemaker and managing director: David Suire

Plantings: 94% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc

First wine: 45-50% of the annual production

Second wine: Les Tours de Laroque, made from younger vines on the limestone plateau

Third label: Chateau Peymouton, made from more clay-based soils, in a lighter and fruity style for restaurants.

Certifications: HVE since 2018.

Château Laroque: 2005-2020

Wines are listed in vintage order – oldest to youngest

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Although designated a Fifth Growth in the 1855 Classification, Château Grand-Puy Ducasse is unlikely to feature high on a list of most desirable purchases for Pauillac fans.

Perhaps this is down to its location (the château is situated in ‘downtown’ Pauillac) so doesn’t conform to the classical image of names such as Château Latour, Château Lafite or Château Mouton-Rothschild, graced by elegant buildings and surrounded by glorious vineyards.

Or perhaps it is simply down to the fact that the wine has a reputation for failing to deliver the same intensity and excitement as many other Pauillac classed growths.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Andy Howard MW’s picks of recent Grand-Puy Ducasse vintages

Work in progress

At a recent masterclass in London, Director and Winemaker Anne Le Naour led a group of sommeliers through the 10-year project which Grand-Puy Ducasse has named ‘Renaissance.’

The work started in 2011 and reached a significant point in 2023, with the first harvest vinified in the new winery.

Initial impressions are that the team seem to be on the right track, although this is more of a ‘work in progress’ rather than the finished article at this stage.

The estate originated in 1675 with the acquisition of a family home on the Left Bank of the Gironde River, followed by expansion of vineyards over the next century, culminating in 1820.

One hundred years after being classified a Fifth Growth, Grand-Puy Ducasse launched its second-wine, Prélude, in 1955.

But, despite many changes, the estate and vineyards fell into decline, leading to the sale in 1971 to Mestrezet-Preller (a wine merchant connected with Cordier).

It is fair to say that, in recent decades, the wines of Grand-Puy Ducasse have failed to excite writers and consumers.

In 2003, Hugh Johnson wrote that, ‘the wines here have often lacked flair.’

Things had not improved in 2012, when Stephen Brook commented that Grand-Puy Ducasse was, ‘a wine that plays safe and rarely sets the pulses racing.’

Renaissance

In 2005 Grand-Puy Ducasse was purchased by Crédit Agricole Grands Crus, leading to significant investment in both vineyards, vinification and the tourist experience.

In the same year Crédit Agricole acquired Château Meyney in Saint-Estèphe, transforming it into a property which today substantially over-delivers.

The team are aiming to weave this same magic at the Pauillac estate. The highly respected Le Naour (along with Estate Manager Benjamin Cassoulet) are clear that the key to the Renaissance project involves a dual approach.

Investments in new production facilities are allowing the team to fully express the differences of the diverse plots which make up Grand-Puy Ducasse’s vineyards.

The estate has five key sectors all, according to Le Naour, having different roles to play both now and in the future.

The northern sector (adjacent to Pontet-Canet and Mouton-Rothschild) lies on gravelly hilltops, with the classic Grand-Puy sector to the west of the Gironde being characterised by gravelly sandy soil over a clay base, with many outcrops of pebbles.

Further west, the Artigues terroir is dominated by Merlot, while younger Cabernet Sauvignon vines (planted in the Pichon sector to the south) point to the future.

Finally, south-west of Pauillac, the Batailley sector is home to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot – a variety Le Naour has high hopes for.

The right direction

Work to completely change the château and winery took 10 years to gain planning permission, given its location in the centre of Pauillac.

The newly expanded vat room now hosts 46 double-skinned steel vats ranging from 30 hectolitres to 129hl, together with seven concrete vats for blending/ageing.

A focus on individual plot selection is seen as key, with Merlot still playing a key role in the distinctive style of Grand-Puy Ducasse.

The masterclass confirmed that the changes are moving the estate in the right direction.

And while Grand-Puy Ducasse remains ‘under the radar’ there should be potential for some smart buys over the next few years.

This is a Fifth Growth to keep a close eye on.

Grand-Puy Ducasse: Pick of recent vintages

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Experienced tasters often maintain that this is not only the finest Cheval Blanc of the 20th century but one of the finest clarets of that century. Yet it’s a wine that doesn’t conform to the model of fine Bordeaux: it is rich and Porty, high in alcohol and volatile acidity.

This weight and opulence may have been atypical of Cheval Blanc, but few tasters have been able to resist its lush texture and voluptuous flavours. Yet its success was in a sense freakish, as no modern winemaker would set out to live so dangerously as to produce a wine in this style.

It was also made against the odds. France was still recovering from the Second World War, the Nazis having plundered the country over four years of occupation. Cellars were bare, barrels were old and scarce, even finding fresh hoops to replace rusty ones was a challenge and even basics such as bottles, corks and labels were in short supply.

Grapes were still sent to the winery in baskets on ox-drawn wagons. And yet, despite this, as French wine writer Michel Dovaz remarked: ‘1947 Cheval Blanc defies the laws of modern oenology.’

Wine Legend: Château Cheval Blanc 1947, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Number of bottles produced: 110,000

Composition of blend: 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot

Yield (hl/ha): 37.4

Alcohol content: 14.4%

Release price: 15-50 ‘old’ francs

Average price today: £16,887 ex-tax (source: Wine-Searcher)

Looking back

The present-day vineyards of Cheval Blanc once formed part of Figeac, but two substantial parcels were sold in the 1830s to the Ducasse family. A Ducasse daughter married Jean Laussac Fourcaud in 1852, and the family (their name evolved over the decades into Fourcaud-Laussac) owned and managed Cheval Blanc until its sale in 1998 (see below).

The wines were always respected but only began to fetch prices comparable to the Médoc first growths in the 1960s.

The people

In 1947 Cheval Blanc was in the hands of the Fourcaud-Laussac family that had owned the property since the early 19th century. It was managed at the time by Jacques Fourcaud-Laussac with Gaston Vassière as winemaker.

The family’s ownership would continue until 1998, when it was acquired by the present owners Bernard Arnault, CEO of luxury goods group LVMH, and Belgian tycoon Baron Albert Frère.

The vintage

The summer was exceptionally hot, with unblemished weather from early April to October. The harvest at Cheval Blanc began on 15 September – two weeks earlier than usual for the time – when temperatures were still above 35ºC. It continued until 4 October, all the while under a ‘torrid sun’ as Madame Fourcaud-Laussac wrote in her diary.

These hot conditions meant that Bordeaux wines, especially on the Right Bank, achieved atypically high natural sugar levels, resulting in opulent wines that in some cases lacked stability. The crop was also generous, far beyond the legal limits allowed in many appellations today.

The terroir

For a property with only 37 hectares of vines, the soils are diverse and perhaps more typical of Pomerol, which Cheval Blanc borders, than of St-Émilion. There are three soils types: gravel over clay (40%), deep gravel (40%), and sand over clay (20%).

The clay soils tend to give the highest sugars but can result in low acidity wines. Vines planted are 58% Cabernet Franc, 42% Merlot.

The wine

Although the hot weather had delivered grapes very high in sugar with some raisining, this was a mixed blessing in 1947, as most châteaux had difficulty controlling the fermentation. In an era before mechanised temperature control, the only method – practiced at Figeac as well as Cheval Blanc – was to cool the must by adding ice cubes to the vats.

No doubt this prevented a fermentation meltdown, but even with the addition of ice the final wine was (in an era when 11.5% or 12% were the norm) very high in alcohol. Moreover, the wine did not ferment to complete dryness, leaving around 3.5 grams per litre of residual sugar, which accounts for the impression of portiness that many tasters have remarked on.

Until 1952 much of the wine was sold in cask and bottled by purchasers – what few examples still remain are sometimes from one of these merchant bottlings – so there may well have been bottle variation.

The reaction

Michael Broadbent opines in Vintage Wine that the 1947 ‘is one of the greatest wines of all time’. Tasted in the mid-1960s, he found that it ‘knocked Lafite and Margaux out of court’.

By the 1980s the wine, he says, was at its peak, with fabulous concentration’ yet lacked charm. By 2000, he noted: ‘faultless yet – dare I say it – unexciting’.

David Peppercorn MW in 1986 also commented on the wine’s, ‘Port-like’ character, admitting that it was ‘almost a freak’.

Present-day director of Cheval Blanc Pierre Lurton concedes, that the 1947 is ‘an accident of nature’.

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We explain the differences between the Left Bank and Right Bank regions of Bordeaux, primarily focusing on their geographical location, appellations, dominant grape varieties, soil types and wine characteristics.

The Left and Right Banks are separated by the Gironde Estuary and the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. The Left Bank is known for Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends, gravelly soils and tannic, structured wines. Key appellations include Pauillac and Margaux.

The Right Bank is known for Merlot-dominant blends, clay and limestone soils and softer, fruitier wines. Key appellations include Pomerol and St-Émilion.

We also explore wine classifications such as the 1855 Classification of the Médoc and the St-Émilion Classification, as well as the impact of vintages and new grape varieties on the regions.

Situated on the west coast of France, Bordeaux is split in two by the Gironde Estuary, which divides into the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. When looking at a map of the region, the area to the north and right of the Gironde is the Right Bank and the areas below and to the left constitute the Left Bank.

More specifically, the Right Bank is the area to the north of the Dordogne river and the Left Bank is the area directly south of the Garonne River, both of which feed into the Gironde estuary that meets the Atlantic Ocean.

The joining of these three forms a shape like an upside down ‘Y’ with the two banks on either side and the area in between known as the ‘Entre-deux-Mers’.

Left vs Right Bank Bordeaux: Appellations

The Left Bank encompasses the Médoc wine region north of Bordeaux. Its four best-known appellations – from north to south – are St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien and Margaux.

It also encompasses the Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc and Moulis-en-Médoc appellations. South of Bordeaux, the Left Bank includes Pessac-Léognan and Graves, plus the (largely) sweet wine producing appellations of Sauternes and Barsac.

The Right Bank’s most famous appellations are Pomerol and St-Émilion, the latter of which has four ‘satellite’ appellations. These are Montagne-, Lussac-, Puisseguin- and St-Georges St-Émilion.

However, the Right Bank also encompasses the: Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Bourg, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux and Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux.

River dissections aside, there are several important distinctions between the banks, most notably the dominance of specific red grape varieties.

Left Bank Cabernet

While all of the Left Bank wines are usually blends, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant force here. Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc tend to play supporting roles.

As ever in the wine world, there are exceptions. Despite the prevailing narrative, there are many parts of the Médoc where Merlot is a dominant, if not the dominant component in blends. Château Clarke in Listrac-Médoc, for example, considers its soils more suited to Merlot in general. Its 2018 grand vin is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The terroir of the Left Bank is mostly flat with gentle undulations in the landscape. Soils are largely composed of alluvial gravels with limestone underneath. That said, the composition can vary substantially from one vineyard to the next and there are large clay deposits in some appellations.

Wines typically have more tannin and a bigger overall structure than their Right Bank counterparts. Pauillac, in particular, has a reputation for producing powerful, muscular wines.

This has been particularly evident in several recent vintages such as the 2021 and 2023, where low volumes and/or poor quality Merlot crops has led to some wines being made with record high proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Experience the elegance of Pessac-Léognan – join the Château Smith Haut Lafitte Masterclass at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025Book your place

Right Bank Merlot

Right Bank wines are predominantly Merlot-based, with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot used as blending components.

Some estates have sought to increase their use of Cabernet Franc in recent years, for its ability to deliver freshness in the glass.

For example, the proportion of Cabernet Franc in Cheval Blanc’s grand vin has been creeping up in recent vintages, now comprising around 46% of the final blend.

The most famous terroir is the large limestone plateau that surrounds the pretty town of St-Émilion itself. This is where the majority of the appellation’s great domaines can be found. The slopes of the plateau and lower-lying areas are dominated by clay soils.

In nearby Pomerol, on the outskirts of the riverside entrepôt of Libourne, there is no limestone. However, the composition of the soils is much more like that of the Left Bank with alluvial gravels and sand, albeit with much more clay mixed in. Many of the best châteaux border St-Émilion.

The Right Bank is also notable for smaller vineyard plots than on the Left Bank, most notably in Pomerol. There, estates manage an average holding of five hectares in size, while some Left Bank estates are more than 100ha.

The wines tend to be rich in fruit, softer in mouthfeel with less tannin and acid than wines from the Left Bank. As ever, however, generalisations rarely hold much water when it comes to wine.

And while there are plenty of wines that are also enjoyable when young, the best wines from the Right Bank are more than capable of ageing happily for many decades.

New varieties

In early 2021, France’s national appellation body, INAO approved the use of six new grape varieties in Bordeaux, as part of efforts to combat climate change.

However, not all appellations are able to use them, and they will most likely be used in AOC Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur, Entre-deux-Mers and the Côtes de Bordeaux wines.

Left vs Right bank Bordeaux: Vintages

Top Left and Right Bank Bordeaux châteaux can produce extremely long-lived wines, particularly in the right vintage conditions.

You may sometimes hear critics speak of a ‘Right Bank’ or ‘Left Bank’ vintage, depending upon whether conditions have favoured later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, which tends to ripen earlier.

However, the situation is often more complex, and can depend upon many variables, from soil types to cellar management. Plus, weather does not always neatly divide itself between the two banks.

Both vineyard and cellar management techniques have evolved hugely in the last two decades, leaving estates vastly better-equipped to deal with difficult years than they were before.

In a rather mixed metaphor, technology has both levelled the playing field across appellations and starkened the contrast between estates at all levels.

The greater the means of an individual château the more it will be able to grow, pick, sort and choose only the very best quality fruit in a given vintage.

As a result, the very best estates are increasingly able to transcend especially hot or wet vintage conditions.

The refrain from critics in more recent years, therefore, is to treat each château on an individual basis rather than rely on ideas of one region or appellation being superior to another.

1855 Classification

With close to 125,000 hectares of vineyards and as many as 60 separate appellations, Bordeaux is one of the most highly classified wine regions in the region.

The most famous of them all is the official 1855 Classification of the Médoc.

It’s a five-tier hierarchy, led by the five ‘first growths’ of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild.

Haut-Brion was included in the original 1855 list, drawn up for Emperor Napoleon III, even though it sits in Graves. Mouton was promoted to the top tier in 1973.

There are then second, third, fourth and fifth growth estates. The ever-improving quality of winemaking in Bordeaux has left some questioning how relevant this classification system really is.

Over the decades, it has often noted that while some classed growth estates have improved dramatically, others have languished.

There is no doubt that some second growths are producing wines that rival the firsts, and some third, fourth or fifth classified estates are producing better or at least more consistent wines than properties in the rung above.

Epithets such as ‘Super Second’ and ‘Flying Fifth’ have been applied to those châteaux deemed to be out-performing in this way.

However, for those châteaux that were ranked in the 1855 classification, being part of the club is clearly a point of pride and it is unlikely there will be any changes – or new admissions any time soon.

Other Left Bank classifications

Further south, Sauternes producers also got a classification system in 1855, devised alongside the one in Médoc as part of celebrations around the Exposition Universelle de Paris that year. Producers were split into first and second growths – or Premiers and Deuxièmes Crus Classés – but Château d’Yquem was given special dispensation as a ‘Premier Cru Supérieur’.

A classification for dry red and white Graves wines was devised in 1953 and finalised in 1959. It includes 16 cru classé estates, all of which sit inside the Pessac-Léognan appellation today.

The Left Bank is also home to the Cru Bourgeois classification, which was recently relaunched as a three-tier system.

St-Émilion classification

On the Right Bank, you’ll find the St-Émilion Classification, first introduced in 1955. Unlike the 1855 Classifications, this ranking is frequently reviewed, currently every 10 years.

In the 2012 list, 82 estates were divided into 64 Grand Cru Classé estates and 18 Premier Grand Cru Classé properties – themselves separated into ‘A’ and ‘B’ rankings.

Château Angélus and Château Pavie joined Ausone and Cheval Blanc as Premier Grand Cru Classé A estates in 2012. However, the fallout from the 2012 classification was extremely litigious and lasted until the most recent review in 2022.

In the interim there were various legal cases and Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Angélus and some other estates gradually excused themselves from the classification proceedings.

Nonetheless, the 2022 classification went ahead, promoting Château Figeac to Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ status alongside Pavie.

A further 12 estates were recognised as Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘B’ and 71 as Grands Crus Classés.

Beyond this, you will also see bottle labels stating ‘St-Émilion Grand Cru’, which is an appellation.

Originally published in April 2020, and updated in April 2021 and June 2024. 

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Bordeaux 2023: Verdict and top-scoring wines

Gareth Birchley, Arthur Coggill and Melody Wong tasted 66 wines, with 31 Highly recommended.

Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018: Panel tasting scores

66 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 31

Recommended 32

Commended 3

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2018 vintage of any Pessac-Léognan or Graves designated red wine, including cru classé

By late April 2018, London was already melting, and there was wall-to-wall sunshine well into October. Bordeaux had a different spring. Record March rainfall led to humidity in the vineyards and a real concern of rot before the buds had even burst.

Unusual as it was, it was July before our cousins in Aquitaine felt the benefits of any kind of heatwave. From then on, by contrast, the stage was set and Bordeaux experienced one of the hottest periods in half a century.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018 panel tasting

On the basis of this tasting, what was produced in 2018 in the Graves and Pessac Léognan – to the south and southeast of Bordeaux city – was very much a mixed bag. Curiously, the two regions generally didn’t differ vastly in qualitative terms, but stylistically were polar opposites.

While the wines from Graves seemed curiously lean and lighter than we expected from such a warm vintage, both Melody Wong and Arthur Coggill agreed that the Pessacs were clearly much richer in body and texture and on the verge, in some cases, of being over the top.

Coggill put the ‘fruit-forward’ nature of many of the wines down to a ‘reflection of market demand’. With none of the wines peaking at more than 14.5% alcohol, it does seem strange that there were so many voluptuous examples. ‘I feel like the winemakers were trying too hard,’ Wong concurred.

We were all stumped as to how exactly two regions that are so similar geographically and geologically could make such consistently different expressions. Without doubt, those searching for freshness should save their pennies and buy the cheaper Graves wines, but those in pursuit of longevity should stick to the richer examples from Pessac-Léognan, which generally had ripe tannins that were well integrated but sometimes felt excessive.

See all the wines from the Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018 panel tasting

I’ve often said that with Burgundy prices through the roof, in 2024, Bordeaux is the best value region around if you’re spending more than £50 per bottle – mainly because there’s great availability of mature vintages at similar prices to much younger wines.

Flipping that on its head, young, slightly disjointed wines feel overpriced compared to other regions. This tasting showed that in Bordeaux, paying more is key. Sadly, at the lower end, the quality doesn’t seem to be there and the wines lack identity and a sense of place. I’ll be curious to follow these wines over the coming decade.

In summary, there were no bad wines, but no outstanding examples either. There were notable omissions from the upper echelon of these regions, which would, no doubt, have pulled the average scores up dramatically. I know for sure that wines such as châteaux Haut-Bailly and Les Carmes Haut-Brion were stunning in 2018.

That being said, Wong noted that, in some cases, the ‘overall quality does not reflect the respective price-tags’. Coggill concluded that: ‘You wouldn’t be disappointed if you bought these wines… but at the same time, you’re not getting something amazing for the price.’

Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2018 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Gareth Birchley is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. After arriving in London in 2006, he worked in sales and senior buying roles at Bordeaux Index and Berry Bros & Rudd, before joining Burns & German in 2019.

Arthur Coggill is head of business development at London-based merchant Hatton & Edwards. Having joined Goedhuis & Co in a fine wine sales role in 2013, he ran its investment fund Vintage Capital for eight years before moving solely to buying in 2021, joining Hatton & Edwards in 2024.

Melody Wong is director of wine at The Peninsula, London. An experienced sommelier and wine buyer, she has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants and top hotels across the UK. In 2022, she was nominated in the GQ Food & Drink Awards Best Sommelier category.

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When it comes to getting bang for your buck on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, many in the know choose to start in the appellations of Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac.

Situated 35km northeast of Bordeaux and 4km northwest of Libourne, these Merlot-centric sister sub-regions are inevitably overshadowed by their renowned Right Bank neighbours St-Émilion and Pomerol, and the wines have generally lower price tags as a result – despite similar soil types and taste profile.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from these overlooked Bordeaux regions

From the Romans to today

Both appellations have winemaking histories that date back to Roman times. Between the 12th and 15th centuries, when Bordeaux was governed by the English, their wines were popular in London.

In 1925, some of the local growers divided into two syndicats – the Côtes de Fronsac and the Côtes de CanonFronsac – along local geographical lines (the latter sat between the villages of Fronsac and St-Michel-de-Fronsac), which eventually provided the official names for the appellations. Fronsac received its original AOC status in 1937 and Canon-Fronsac was similarly formally recognised two years later.

The late Professor Henri Enjalbert, a specialist in wine geology from the University of Bordeaux, once described the Fronsac area as ‘the historic cradle of the great Bordeaux wines of Libourne’.

Today, Fronsac covers about 800ha of vineyards, draped across a gently rolling landscape atypical for the region, and consists of seven communes: Fronsac, St-Michel de Fronsac, St-Aignan, La Rivière, St-Germain-de-la-Rivière, Saillans and Galgon. About 5 million bottles are produced annually, from roughly 100 wineries.

Canon-Fronsac, meanwhile, effectively sits within the larger Fronsac AP, with which it shares its two communes, Fronsac and St-Michel-de-Fronsac, and producers located within these two communes can opt to use either the Fronsac or Canon-Fronsac designation on their label. Its 40 or so wineries produce about 2 million bottles a year from a vineyard area of roughly 250ha.

Soil and style

Little divides the two appellations. Their soils are similar, although those of Canon-Fronsac show less diversity in soil types, and Canon-Fronsac also enjoys slightly better exposure, with more of its slopes facing south. The best wines show some airiness in their structure, with pronounced minerality due to the local soil type.

The soils mostly consist of limestone and clay-over-limestone, the former dominant on the hilltops and plateaus, and the so-called Fronsac molasses, an iron-rich mixture of chalk, clay and sand, found on the slopes and foothills.

The wines often exhibit ripe fruit flavours, balanced acidity and firm tannins, with Merlot the dominant grape variety in the blends, as in many other Right Bank appellations.

The grape accounts for almost 80% of plantings, and the remainder is shared between Cabernet Franc (almost 15%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (less than 10%). A few estates also include a dash of Malbec in the blend, although the grape isn’t widely planted.

Yes, these wines lack the level of recognition that those from the more prestigious appellations St-Emilion and Pomerol attract, but they can offer excellent value for money, and similar characteristics in the glass.

The Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac appellations also have a keen commitment to sustainability. Today, 30% of the area under vine is either certified organic or in conversion, and the percentage of estates with high environmental value status has also reached 70% within the two appellations.

Lin Liu MW picks Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac wines to try:

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The Bordeaux 2010 vintage stands as a landmark year, one of the most celebrated in recent memory. Superb across the entire region, red wines reached optimum maturity with bright acidity and firm tannins.

Small berries produced concentrated wines with many having increased percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blends, leading to a slight advantage for the Left Bank over the Right.

Often talked about alongside the equally brilliant but contrasting-in-style 2009 vintage, 2010 offered less hedonism but more homogeneity with excellent red, dry white and sweet examples.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for our top 2010 Médoc reds

Tale of the vintage

Almost 14 years later, the finest 2010 reds are shining examples of what Bordeaux can do at its best: structured, classical and fresh. And while they have taken their time to come around after being initially quite closed, many of the wines are now reaching the start of their drinking windows.

To quickly recap the weather at the time, a cold winter and dry early spring in 2010 delayed the initial vine growth, slowing and disrupting both bud burst (starting a few days later than in 2009) and flowering, which led to problems with millerandage and coulure (poor fruit set resulting in undersized berries in gappy bunches), particularly in the Merlot.

March saw less rain than average, then low rainfall in April and May led to a water deficit ahead of an exceedingly hot and dry summer. Although rain prevailed somewhat in June, only 50mm fell on average across the region July to September, according to data from the ISVV Bordeaux Institute, with no localised variations as in some years.

The year was drier than both 2009 and 2005. Long sunny days were fortunately offset by cool nights, vital in preserving acidity in both reds and whites, and there was a uniform spread of botrytis in Sauternes.

Overall, Pauillac is the most Cabernet-oriented appellation in 2010, and there were some great, almost unsurpassable wines produced there; St-Julien delivered some ‘quintessential clarets’, with each estate able to produce wines reflecting its own individual style and terroir. Indeed, in our tasting for this feature, those two appellations produced four of the five top-scoring wines.

Renowned for their depth, intensity and precision, these wines were lauded for their impeccable balance of fruit, tannin and acidity, as well as their potential for long-term ageing.

As such, en primeur release prices were set largely too high – as a reaction to the already-risen 2009 vintage, particularly for the first growths and their second wines – with the aim being to capitalise on interest from Asia at the time.

With the 2010s up an average 23% on the 2008 vintage, the secondary fine wine market suddenly fell out of love with Bordeaux and crashed a month or so after the spring 2012 primeurs campaign ended, heralding a fall in value for the 2010 vintage over the next five years.

The vintage remains one of the most expensive in recent times, and this has had the effect of largely overshadowing its greatness – but as the wines approach their drinking windows, these prices should now start to make more sense, relative to the market in general.

Fluctuating fortunes

As in all vintages, there have been winners and losers in terms of investments. According to Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the wine trade, the returns and margin for 2010 wines in its Bordeaux 500 index were down -11% two years after en primeur release and currently by -12%.

The average ex-château release price per bottle of the 2010s was €211, the ex-négociant release price €255, and ex-London release price €282; two years later the market price had dropped back to €250, and the current market price remains at €248.

Of the 2010s, the best performers in terms of the percentage difference between release price and current market price are Le Pin at +144%, Calon Ségur at +70%, Smith Haut Lafitte +68%, Beychevelle +67% and Petrus +63%. There are 30 estates from the top 500 that show positive figures, ranging from +2% to +144%.

For some wider context, Liv-ex’s figures for current average return on en primeur release pricing reveal that the 2009 vintage is currently down -13%, as is the 2017, with 2019 at +13%, 2020 -10%, 2021 -9% and 2022 -5%.

Liv-ex maintains that: ‘Bordeaux offers plenty of value to buyers – just rarely en primeur’, adding: ‘Decades of poorly priced campaigns means that the relative value comes from well-priced back-vintages, often from leading estates.’

However, collectors with 2010 wines in their cellars – and even buyers looking to purchase bottles today – will be rewarded at almost any price point. Lots of wines are now ready to drink, but many are also capable of ageing further.

The best still need at least a decade longer but will have at least 20-30 years ahead of them after that, steadfast in their charm and approachability.

Hitting their stride: 40 top Médoc 2010 reds to seek out

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Ronan Sayburn MS, Eugenio Egorov and Ben Gubbins tasted 49 wines with 3 Outstanding and 17 Highly recommended.

US Merlot: Panel tasting scores

49 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 17

Recommended 27

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release Merlot red wines from any recognised US wine region, containing a minimum of 75% Merlot if in a blend with other varieties

It’s 20 years since the protagonist in the movie Sideways – Miles, a dedicated Pinot-phile – expressed his utter disdain for Merlot. Not long after the film came out, figures released by market analyst Nielsen showed a 16% jump in sales of Pinot Noir against the previous year, along with a 2% decrease in sales of Merlot. A study carried out by economist Stephen Cuellar of Sonoma State University and two colleagues, and released four years after the movie, showed a similar effect.

The small drop in Merlot sales, despite the devastating put-downs of Miles, may be an indication of the continued popularity of this variety with many consumers – it’s soft, approachable, easy to pronounce and can offer rich and deep, ripe fruit. At one time, it was even talked about as a potential contender for Cabernet Sauvignon’s crown.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the US Merlot panel tasting

Merlot is an émigré from Bordeaux, where it found fame post-phylloxera thanks to its ability to graft well (at a time when vineyards around the world needed replanting); prior to that, it was only a minor blending variety. The most widely planted variety in the Bordeaux region, it also marries well in a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and thrives in the cooler, damper soils found in St-Emilion and Pomerol. Nowadays, it may be falling out of favour as winemakers question its ability to remain elegant in the slowly increasing temperatures now found in Bordeaux.

The wines we tasted were principally from California, but also from Washington and New York states. Eugenio Egorov commented that there were some rather predictable wines, with big alcohol and oak dominating in some cases. Most of the wines we tasted here were at 14%-15% alcohol, and the best of those balanced these levels with ripe but elegant fruit and fine tannins. Ben Gubbins commented that there seemed to be a lot of winemaking influence rather than pure fruit expression, and the cooler climates often fared better.

See all 49 wines from the US Merlot panel tasting

The Washington wines we tried showed very well, with six landing in our top 20 (90-95pts) and 14 more rated Recommended (87-89pts). Sadly, New York showed less well and its wines received some of our lowest scores. These wines showed a soft, jammy, quite simple style that was pleasant to drink but didn’t show a great depth or structure.

Washington showed an overall step up in quality and more harmony between nose and palate. Generally, the wines were quite fine and elegant, with tighter blackcurrant fruit and less weight and alcohol. California (12 in the top 20), and especially Napa, fared the best, with wines that were sweet and ripe on the nose, with elegant fruit and sage-like aromas, soft tannins holding up a broad, velvety palate.

As with many wine regions, it comes down to the producers, some of whom wish to make more commercial, easy-drinking wines and others something finer. At its best, Merlot from the US can show the elegant and generous fruit one would expect to find in a good Bordeaux vintage.

US Merlot panel tasting scores

The following wines all scored 90 points or above. Wines were tasted blind.

The judges

Ronan Sayburn MS is CEO of the Court of Master Sommeliers European chapter and runs his own consultancy and wine training company, RS Wine Academy. A Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards, he is also a previous winner of the UK Sommelier of the Year competition

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose through the ranks as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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Bolgheri 2020: 4/5

‘A slightly lighter, though well balanced vintage overall, but not without difficulties. Heat in early September brought the harvest forward. Some Cabernet Sauvignon was affected by rain, which caused dilution.’

At Tenuta San Guido, everyone was called back for the harvest; at Ornellaia, the four grape varieties were harvested together. The 2020 vintage in Bolgheri was defined more than ever by the weather.

In the very early days of September, scorching heat forced a sudden acceleration of the harvest. After that, rain diluted the Cabernet Sauvignon. These seem to be the details that characterised the 2020 vintage: warm, but not without strong contrasts.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for the best-scoring wines from the 2020 vintage

The 2020 vintage in Bolgheri

My first taste of the 2020 vintage – at Tenuta San Guido – was almost something of a disappointment. I tasted from the barrels before the final blend was created, and some samples were already almost worryingly mature. Fortunately, none of these appear to have ended up in the final blend of Sassicaia, which stands out in this warm vintage for its freshness and aromatics.

‘It was a challenging vintage that required a lot of manual labour – but there was the lockdown,’ commented Carlo Paoli, managing director of Tenuta San Guido. ‘After a cool and rainy June, a warm harvest with simultaneous ripening prevented us from pushing the macerations as much as we would have liked and could have. Attention to the older vines allowed us to extract more with long macerations on vineyards like Sassicaia and Quercione.’

‘In early September, we harvested all four varieties in one day, something that had never happened at Ornellaia,’ recounted Axel Heinz, the former estate director at Ornellaia, who left for Bordeaux in 2022. ‘You can feel the warmth of the year, with colour and ripe fruit, but nothing excessive; in the final blend, there is purity and proportion.’

According to Gaja’s 2020 vintage report, ‘the grape clusters are, on average, 15% larger than usual, with crisp and fine skins. The quality of Cabernet Franc and Merlot is excellent; even Shiraz and Sangiovese show good balance, while the quality of Cabernet Sauvignon was more variable, despite some high-quality peaks.’

‘[It’s] A vintage of beautiful density and character. It is still shy in the glass, less expressive than the 2019 and 2021, often showing notes of dark and Mediterranean fruits. Time will reveal its solidity better,’ said Giacomo Satta of Michele Satta.

Overall, 2020 appears to be a more robust and concentrated 2018, but with greater balance it’s a vintage of well proportioned wines with classic ageing potential, peaking between eight and 15 years then holding steady for the following 10. Ultimately, 2020 is a vintage deserving of a 4-star rating.

Vintage highlights

One of the highlights this year is a pure Sangiovese wine aged in amphorae: Mulini di Segalari’s Soloterra comes from one of the most beautiful and suitable areas of Bolgheri, that of Segalari, high above the village of Castagneto Carducci on soils lighter than those below the Bolgherese road. Mulini di Segalari is incidentally the only biodynamic cellar in Bolgheri.

Among the garagistes, it’s worth noting the good performance of Podere Conca, in the heart of Via Bolgherese, with its sleek drinkability. The Cabernet Franc of Tenuta Meraviglia continues to improve, and with it, there’s an emergence of large barrels – also utilised at Caccia al Piano.

In 2020, Masseto stands out above all, however, finding in the balance between its usual concentration and the lighter vintage an element of great finesse. Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Grattamacco and Guado al Tasso also continue to confirm their status as Bolgheri ‘first growths’.

Bolgheri at a glance

Bolgheri, the ‘Bordeaux blend’ denomination of Tuscany, shines today for its consistency – like Bordeaux itself, or Napa in California. The size of the wineries often maintains a moderate, if not ‘garagiste’ character.

Bolgheri currently consists of 72 producers and 1,365 hectares of vines within the DOC. It fairly consistently releases over 7 million bottles annually, reaching 7.6m in 2022 despite the drought. Production of the 2023 vintage is down to 6 million bottles, however, due to downy mildew, and 2020 was also below average at 6.5m bottles – proof that it was not an easy year.

However, according to data from Winesearcher.com processed for the Bolgheri consortium, the average price of Bolgheri Superiore has increased by 11% to €63 per bottle (excluding VAT), reaching €138 when considering e-commerce in foreign markets. In the UK on-trade channel, for example, Bolgheri Superiore consistently averaged £306 (including VAT, as of April 2021).

The driving force behind this coastal denomination is still red wine, despite the summer success of Vermentino. However, the composition of the blends is changing. Cabernet Franc is the variety seeing the most growth, establishing a stronger identity in Bolgheri year after year: between 2017 and 2021, hectares of Cabernet Franc under vine grew by 35.12%, from 158 to 244 hectares, catching up with plantings of Merlot.

Cabernet Franc now represents 18.33% of total hectares under vine in Bolgheri DOC, while Merlot represents 25.69% and Cabernet Sauvignon 39.25% (the latter remains the most representative grape variety).

View the Bolgheri 2020 score table featuring all 50 wines rated

Developments

Investment in the area continues apace. Following the arrivals of Feudi di San Gregorio and Banfi, the Constellation Brands-owned Ruffino has also announced a Bolgheri Superiore which will be 2024. The winemaking team will be led by Olga Fusari, formerly of Ornellaia.

Cabernet Franc is increasingly a protagonist in Bolgheri, but if its contribution seems crucial to many blends – whether they are Cabernet Sauvignon-based or Merlot-based, such as Masseto – on its own it doesn’t always produce excellent wines that reach the heights of Le Macchiole’s Paleo.

100% Merlot wines hold up well, thanks to areas of blue clay, while Cabernet Sauvignon remains the dominant base, even though it suffered more from the rain in 2020.

Petit Verdot, perhaps too structured for the generous microclimate of the Tuscan coast, is largely being abandoned.

Aldo’s top Bolgheri 2020 picks

View the Bolgheri 2020 score table featuring all 50 wines rated

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It is now 20 years since Paul Giamatti’s character delivered a major blow to Merlot producers in the Oscar-winning comedy Sideways.

‘No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving,’ screamed an apoplectic Miles. ‘I am not drinking any ****ing Merlot.’

Stats from Sonoma State University showed that Merlot sales in the American market fell by 2% in the aftermath of the movie’s release.

That trend has finally travelled across the Atlantic Ocean, as new data from CGA shows that Brits have now fallen out of love with the grape variety too.

Merlot’s share of the premium wine market in UK bars and restaurants has decreased by more than 2% since 2019. No other major grape variety has suffered such a sharp decline in its market share, according to analysts at CGA.

Meanwhile, Beaujolais sales are going through the roof as Brits seek out lighter styles of red wine. Gamay sales are up by 35% since 2019 at high-end bars, hotels and restaurants, according to the report, which was compiled by wine supplier Liberty Wines.

‘This popularity reflects a change in taste, with customers preferring lighter styles of red wine,’ concluded the report. ‘It is also likely that rising Burgundy prices have led consumers to embrace the quality and value that Beaujolais offers.’

Nebbiolo, Corvina and Barbera are the other red wine varieties that have surged in popularity since 2019, according to CGA.

Riesling, Semillon, Viognier and Grüner Veltliner have all seen strong growth too, while Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc have declined.

Discerning wine drinkers are seeking out more esoteric wines when they visit high-quality restaurants and bars, according to CGA. That has caused sales of wines from Italy and Portugal to spike, while France, Australia, South Africa and Spain have all suffered declines.

When we analyse the broader market, total wine sales are down by 19% since 2019 in the UK ‘on-trade’ – a term used to cover out-of-home consumption at bars, pubs, restaurants and hotels.

‘Inflation has reached levels not seen since the 1980s, economic growth and confidence have dissolved, skilled staff remain in very short supply, train strikes are ongoing and wine duty has significantly risen,’ said Liberty Wines CEO Tom Platt.

The cost-of-living crisis has caused Brits to spend less time in bars and pubs. This trend has been exacerbated by a shift to more people working from home.

Wine sales at pubs and bars have fallen sharply, but sales in restaurants and hotels have now exceeded pre-pandemic levels, according to CGA.

Supermarkets and specialist wine stores have also been major beneficiaries of the changing consumer landscape. They now enjoy a record share of the UK wine market, as cash-strapped Brits prefer to drink at home.

Total out-of-home red wine sales have fallen by 26% since 2019, compared to a 14% decline for white wine and a 15% increase for rosé.

If we examine the ‘premium’ market, which CGA defines as the top 5% of UK bars, hotels and restaurants, some interesting trends emerge.

Champagne has emerged triumphant since lockdown restrictions were lifted, with sales vastly exceeding pre-pandemic levels at these luxurious establishments. Yet Prosecco has fallen out of favour, with its share of the premium market falling by 15% since 2019.

Platt at Liberty Wines believes this ‘premium’ segment of the market is poised to outperform in the years ahead. ‘It continues to sell higher-quality wine successfully, increasing per bottle spend by delivering an experience that offers genuine value,’ he said. ‘Because consumers remain willing to spend and explore, even in a difficult market, opportunities still exist to grow wine sales.’

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An original Premier Grand Cru Classé, since St-Emilion established its revisable classification in 1955, Clos Fourtet benefits from the unique clay-over-limestone plateau of the appellation. But it has never obtained the requisite promotion plaudits to reach the classification’s top tier.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a 19-vintage vertical of Clos Fourtet

When Château Angélus and Château Pavie joined the official Premier Grand Cru Classé A level ranking of long-time greats Château Ausone and Château Cheval Blanc in the classification’s 2012 edition, some thought of Clos Fourtet (along with Château Canon) on the limestone plateau as more obvious candidates.

Following the 2012 revision, for example, Franck Dubourdieu, of Bordeaux Classic Wine, criticised what he called the ‘anti-classical, modern, globalised style’ of Angélus and Pavie as compared to Canon and Clos Fourtet, ‘revered by the great amateurs of France and elsewhere, as having deserved promotion just as much if not more’.

By the 2022 ranking, controversy had mired the classification. One year before results of last year’s revision were determined, Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc criticised ranking criteria for excessive emphasis on product placement, how often an estate appears in media, along with wine tourism infrastructure. As a result, they left. Château Angélus, which for so many years publicised its hard-fought promotion to the A level, also left.

Today, only Château Pavie and Château Figeac, promoted last year, hold the A grade. But Clos Fourtet and Canon again did not reach that top level. This article focuses on Clos Fourtet, which hosted a 20-year vertical of wines reaching back to 2001, when Philippe Cuvelier acquired the property.

The vertical tasting at Clos Fourtet in April 2023 showed not only the high quality of the wines, but also the terroir. Given vintage differences, the Cuvelier family divided the tasting according to style. They dubbed one flight Les Frais, which included lighter years like 2002 and 2013. Another, Les Lumineux, included sunny vintages like 2003 and 2009. But every vintage reflected the inimitable freshness of the famous limestone plateau.

I can understand the logic of Dubourdieu. Even today, the limestone plateau lacks enough recognition, partly because ranking criteria do not stress terroir potential as much as it should. As for media attention, some participants at the vertical pointed out that as the estate rarely holds such tastings for media, Clos Fourtet had not generated the level of media buzz that Angélus or Pavie did ahead of their promotions in 2012.

As a result, one senses deficient market notoriety for a wine of such a high pedigree. In the US, buyers like Jeff Zacharia of Zachy’s in New York and Shaun Bishop of JJ Buckley in California profess lacking knowledge of the label. In answer to my question ‘What makes Clos Fourtet a special Premier Grand Cru Classé?’, Bishop replied: ‘I am not as familiar with Clos Fourtet, although I love the wines, and so not qualified to answer,’ while acknowledging that ‘the terroir is spectacular and the wines are always so good!’ Zacharia replied that he has not tasted enough recent vintages to comment on quality while respecting its ‘long history on the limestone terroir’.

Furthermore, even if Clos Fourtet has long exuded Merlot succulence with limestone minerality, the wines rarely obtained the high Parker points needed for higher pricing, another factor for promotion. At his height, US wine critic Robert Parker significantly influenced St-Emilion’s path to what critics called ‘Parkerised’ wines, crafted from ultra-ripe grapes, extracting excessive wood tannin. The revisable rankings necessarily are based on tastings of older vintages, when a particular style was predominant, even if these days people appreciate wines lighter in alcohol, with less new oak extraction.

‘We never try to follow fashion,’ says Clos Fourtet co-owner Matthieu Cuvelier, son of Philippe. Back then, the issue was being “Parkerised” but today, we are in an anti-Parker mode, in a “Duclotised” world, he says, referring to currently popular wine consultant Thomas Duclos, who favours earlier picking and less new oak extraction, with clients like Château Troplong Mondot, once known for picking grapes extra late and super high alcohol levels. In more recent years, Troplong Mondot has become a poster child for freshness. Cuvelier praises Duclos for ‘remarkable’ work for such estates that had gone too far in following the so-called Parker fashion.

Clos Fourtet in brief

13th century Originally a Middle Ages military fort

17th century First records of vineyards

1867 Name changes from Campfourtet to Clos Fourtet

Late 1800s Prize-winning winemaker Elie Rulleau earns medals featured on the label

1919 Ginestet family acquires the estate

1949 Lurton family acquires the estate

1955 Clos Fourtet ranked Premier Grand Cru Classé B, just behind Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc – and it has maintained this ranking ever since, although the B no longer exists

1973 André and Lucien Lurton take control of the estate with nephew Pierre Lurton

2001 Philippe Cuvelier, shareholder of Guilbert paper mills, purchases the estate

2001-2012 Cellar renovations and replanting programme

2013 Acquisition of Clos St-Martin, Les Grandes Murailles, Côte du Baleau

2014 Installation of stainless-steel tanks with a capacity varying from 40 to 70 hectolitres.

2022 Vineyard of Château Les Grandes Murailles merged into that of Clos Fourtet

Owner Philippe Cuvelier

Director Emmanuel de Saint-Salvy

Appellation and classification St-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

Surface 22ha of clay over limestone (20ha along the plateau and 2ha that once were Les Grandes Murailles)

Varieties 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

Planting density 6,000 to 9,200 vines per hectare

Average vine age 35 years

Consultants Stéphane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet

A belief in evolution rather than revolution saw the Cuvelier family hire Stéphane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet as consultants. Berrouet – especially famous for having directed winemaking at Petrus and other top Pomerol estates – has been saying for decades that higher alcohol leaches more tannin from new oak, risking overly oaky wines. ‘Thanks to Jean-Claude, we have been progressing in a direction of less new oak,’ says Cuvelier, ‘from 100% to 80%, then to 70% and around 60%, and in 2022, 40%.’ Meanwhile Derenoncourt helps especially with extractions, Cuvelier says. ‘He has insisted on working with pigeages (punch downs) rather than pumping over, taking a Burgundian approach with the result of more precision.’

And while a shift towards greater elegance has not been as dramatic as with some other estates, industry observers like Matthew O’Connell of London’s Bordeaux Index say that a ‘change of emphasis at Clos Fourtet has been impressive’ and that ‘we’ve noted that in vintages such as 2019 and 2022, where the risk of over-extraction and richness abounded, there is impressive clarity and elegance to the wine.’ Despite such praise, O’Connell says that the estate ‘remains a minor player in our Bordeaux distribution’.

Cooler vineyard advantage

An increasing advantage for Clos Fourtet in the climate change era is a cooler, northern exposure for part of its vineyard. Indeed, the estate was never among the first to harvest, Cuvelier says. Savvy buyers should note that hot vintages like 2003 were especially successful at Clos Fourtet, at least partly because of this northern vineyard aspect.

Furthermore, the wines should gain freshness with a plan to increase Cabernet Franc plantings. Back in the 1950s, the vineyard included 20% Cabernet Franc, but the Cuvelier family found that too much of that variety was not ‘qualitative enough’, or that it had been planted in the ‘wrong’ (cooler) part of the vineyard. In the last two decades, the Cuvelier family has replanted one-third of the vineyard, including replanting Cabernet Franc in the last 10 years.

Matthieu Cuvelier on the style of Clos Fourtet

‘We always have had suave and smooth fruit, with Merlot at the heart of the wine, lending velvety roundness and no aggression. The Cabernet Sauvignon driven wines of the Médoc are fantastic, but this heart of Merlot offers more roundness and friendly accessibility for wine lovers, which is a force for us. Just as important is maintaining the limestone typicity, which is not so easy. If you get too ripe, you lose that freshness. So, it is a question of balance, to retain that iodine freshness, that salinity. You must have winemaking to get a balance that is exactly right.’

The estate set up a plot of eight different Cabernet Franc clones, chosen from the Chambre d’Agriculture in Bordeaux and from ‘illustrious neighbours who prefer to be anonymous’, Cuvelier says. ‘We have been doing micro-vinification of all eight in recent years and now we have picked four that interest us and for which we planted 1.5ha, already in production.’

Will Clos Fourtet ever reach the coveted A grade? In the end, fans care less about the St-Emilion classification. ‘I love this wine, and again it is great in 2022,’ says Jeremy Stockman, managing director at Watson’s Wine in Hong Kong. ‘The classification system now means very little,’ he adds, referring to the controversies. ‘I think most consumers are confused over what it means and most importantly nowadays follow châteaux that they like.’ There is much to like in Clos Fourtet, not least of which an excellent price/quality ratio, as prices have not yet caught up with quality.

Clos Fourtet vertical: Notes and scores going back to 2001

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Robert Mondavi was brilliant at creating prestigious joint ventures, such as Opus One in Napa, and Seňa with Eduardo Chadwick in Chile. But less well known was Luce in Tuscany.

Srcoll down to see tasting notes and scores for a vertical of Luce from 2000-2020

In the 1970s, Mondavi had toured Italy with his son Tim with a view to creating an Italian brand, but it wasn’t until 1995 that his plans came to fruition and he formally collaborated with the Frescobaldi family to found Tenuta Luce. The Frescobaldis had bought the Castelgiocondo estate in Montalcino in 1989, and the Luce vineyards were in the same location.

Luce’s signature was its 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Sangiovese is, of course, the grape of Brunello di Montalcino, but with their Lamaione brand, the Frescobaldis had shown that it was possible to make an outstanding pure Merlot in the region (I attended the launch of the first Lamaione vintage, 1991, and promptly bought a case!). Merlot was planted on the lower part of the vineyard on clay soils, while the Sangiovese was planted higher up on stonier shale soils.

Although Mondavi was a far larger wine producer than Frescobaldi, it had always been a family estate and the two clans enjoyed their strong personal collaboration. But when Tim Mondavi retired from the project in 2002, the partnership foundered.

From that point, Lamberto Frescobaldi took on full responsibility for Luce, a position he still holds today. In 2004, Mondavi was bought by Constellation but the Frescobaldis, not wishing to work with a major corporate brand, bought out the Mondavi share the following year.

Luce in the cellar

At first, Luce was aged in barriques and then in large casks, but from 2005 all ageing took place in mostly new barriques to help tame the natural tannins of the wine. Located in one of the warmest spots in Montalcino, the Merlot could deliver opulent wines with high sugars and alcohol, but this was usually well balanced by the fresher Sangiovese component.

Luce has maintained a steady course over the years. Winemakers have changed – Jérôme Poisson from 2012, Alessandro Marini from 2019 – but the thinking behind the blend has not. Nevertheless, the wine has evolved. The 2013 Luce was made from organically farmed grapes, although the vineyard was only certified in 2015. More recent vintages have emphasised freshness and finesse rather than power and extraction, and there is less evident new oak: Lamberto Frescobaldi once told me: ‘Too much new oak gives those strong vanilla aromas, and if you want vanilla, it’s better to go and buy an ice cream!’

A new winery was built in 2016 (previously, the wines had been produced at the nearby Castelgiocondo winery) containing custom-made concrete tanks for fermentation.

Winemaker Alessandro Marini studied in Bordeaux and has worked at top Right Bank estates such as Figeac. Well aware of Merlot’s propensity for high alcohols, he introduced a lighter touch during vinification. ‘We crush lightly and reduce the fermentation temperature to around 27°C, and we’ve also shortened the fermentation period. In the 2000s there was a tendency at Luce to allow some overripeness in the vineyards, but today we avoid that. Indeed we pick relatively early to retain freshness. And there are fewer pumpovers and less extraction overall.’

New wines have been added to the Luce range over the years, as there is no wish to expand the production of Luce itself. Lucente is in effect a second wine, sourced from younger vines, with more Merlot and less new oak. A Luce Brunello was created in 2003, and most recently, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated Lux Vitis – although production is very limited.

But it’s Luce, with its winning varietal blend, that remains the outstanding wine of the line up.

Luce through the years: 2020-2000

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Château Haut-Brion stands apart from its peers in many ways. Some of these differences are historical: it is the only first growth of 1855 that is not located on the Médoc peninsula. Although the area around the city of Bordeaux was the birthplace of winemaking in the region, by the time of the 1855 classification, Haut-Brion was the only château here deemed worthy of the honour.

It is also the oldest of Bordeaux first growths. It is a venerable property indeed – it is thought that vines were cultivated in Roman times, although the first recorded mention of the estate under its present name (as Aubrion or Haulbrion) was in 1521.

Scroll down to see Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores for 12 vintages of Château Haut-Brion

In 1533 it was acquired by Jean de Pontac through the dowry of his wife, Jeanne de Bellon, daughter of the mayor of Libourne. De Pontac began building the current château in 1549 and lived to be 101, dying in 1589.

Ownership passed to his son Arnaud, and then to his nephew Geoffroy before passing to Geoffroy’s son, Arnaud III, the first president of the Parlement of Bordeaux. During the time of Arnaud III, the wine of Haut-Brion was famous in English literary circles and he sent his son François-Auguste to London to found a tavern called The Sign of Pontac’s Head, whose customers included Swift and Dryden; the wine was also mentioned by name in the diaries of Samuel Pepys in 1663.

François-Auguste fell on hard times, however, and ownership passed to his sister, Thérèse d’Aulède, and his nephew, and the two split the estate in half. The d’Aulède family also owned Château Margaux and for a time maintained both properties.

Post-Revolution revival

The estate was confiscated during the Revolution but later restored to the family. However, they sold their interest to Talleyrand, and from there the domaine changed hands several times in the early 19th century.

In 1836 it was purchased by Eugène Larrieu, who ultimately reunited the two parts of the vineyard before passing it on to his son. His grandson (another Eugène) died without issue, and the estate once again knew several proprietors before being bought by New York banker Clarence Dillon in 1935, and his family has been the proprietors since then.

In 1953, Haut-Brion was classified a second time (for red wine) in the classification of the Graves, making it the only château classified twice. This classification (amended in 1959) included 16 châteaux. Some were classified for their red wine only (like Haut-Brion), some for their dry white wine only (like Laville Haut-Brion), and others were classified for both.

All of these châteaux were part of the northern section of the Graves. This area, once known as the Hautes Graves, has long been considered superior and in 1987 it was given the separate appellation of Pessac-Léognan, named for two of the eight villages included in the classification, which also includes Mérignac, Talence, Gradignan, Villenave-d’Ornon, Cadaujac and Martillac.

Clarence Dillon’s granddaughter Joan married Prince Charles of Luxembourg. After the death of her husband, she married Philippe de Noailles, the Duc de Mouchy. She was the president of Domaines Clarence Dillon from 1975 until 2008; her husband was the managing director.

Present-day Haut-Brion

Today, Prince Robert de Luxembourg (her son from her first marriage) is the company’s president. The managing director is Jean-Philippe Delmas, whose father and grandfather also served in this role. Pascal Baratié directs the work in the vineyards; the cellar master is Florence Forgas, and the technical director is Jean-Philippe Masclef.

Domaines Clarence Dillon purchased its sometime-rival Château La Mission Haut-Brion (located across the street) from the Woltner family in 1983. Included in this purchase were the nearby Château Laville Haut-Brion (making white wine) and Château La Tour Haut-Brion. La Tour Haut-Brion had its own vineyards but historically the wine had been made at La Mission Haut-Brion.

These have now been discontinued: Laville Haut-Brion has been bottled as La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, beginning with the 2009 vintage, and La Tour Haut-Brion was discontinued after the 2005 vintage, the grapes now being blended into the second wine of La Mission, which is called La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion.

Château Haut-Brion also has a second wine called Le Clarence de Haut-Brion. It had been sold as Château Bahans Haut-Brion since the early 20th century, but this was discontinued after the 2006 vintage. Similarly, the second white wine was also rebaptised – it had once been Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion but has been sold as La Clarté de Haut-Brion since the 2008 vintage.

The most recent chapter in the saga of the Haut-Brion vineyards has been the integration of Allary Haut-Brion with the 2012 vintage, this 1.31ha vineyard laying within the confines of Château Haut-Brion.

Originally it had been called Château Loup-Blanc Haut-Brion, according to Clive Coates MW. It was renamed La Passion Haut-Brion in the 20th century, and from 1948 the wines were made by Georges Delmas, the manager and winemaker of Haut-Brion (and grandfather of the present managing director).

The vintages from 1955-1978 were sold as La Passion Haut-Brion, and after this the grapes were purchased by Haut-Brion on a sharecropping basis for the grand vin.

The heirs of the original owners of La Passion Haut-Brion decided to resurrect the label briefly as Allary Haut-Brion, but after a few vintages inheritance laws induced them to sell the vines to Domaines Clarence Dillon, and from the 2012 vintage these grapes were added to the rest of Château Haut-Brion.

Including this recent acquisition, Château Haut-Brion owns 51ha of vineyards; 48ha are planted to black grapes. The proportions in the vineyard are 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, illustrating another essential point of difference with the other first growths – Haut-Brion has by far the most significant proportion of Merlot in the vineyards.

There are many examples where there is more Merlot in the final blend of Haut-Brion’s grand vin than Cabernet Sauvignon – and sometimes more than the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc combined.

A unique spot in Graves

The vines are located at the highest point in Bordeaux, 30m above sea level, planted in gravel with sand over clay at a density of 10,000 vines per hectare. These privileged sites ripen grapes easily and quickly because of the elevation, and because the proximity of the city helps warm the vineyard slightly. There are also nearly 3ha of white grapes, including Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris.

After harvesting by hand, the grapes are sorted in the vineyard. A strict selection is made: in modern times, the grand vin represents 35%-45% of the estate’s production. The fermentation tanks are stainless steel. For the red wine, there are two levels with a slanted floor for the upper tank where the alcoholic fermentation occurs.

The finished wine is then run by gravity into the lower tank for malolactic conversion. No cultured yeast is used for the fermentation, and the total time on the skins can be anywhere from 20-30 days depending on the vintage and the grape variety.

Up to 8% of the grand vin can be press wine which is aged in barrel, racked once per quarter, for 18-24 months, before fining with egg whites and bottling. Again, atypically for a first growth, the use of new oak has departed from the 100% that was once the standard, now it can vary from 70%-90%.

And what of the taste? Pepys famously remarked that he had drunk ‘a sort of French wine called Ho Bryan, that hath a good and most particular taste that I never met with’. Few, however, have narrowed it down more specifically than that.

Clive Coates MW in The Wines of Bordeaux says that the wine of Graves tastes of ‘warm bricks’. For me, the essential difference comes from the relatively high proportion of Merlot, not only at Haut-Brion but generally throughout the Graves.

This dominance gives the wines less of the pointed blackcurrant aromas that Cabernet-heavy wines will show and a softer, plummy character to the fruit that gives a bit more earthiness. The tannins will have less tendency to astringency, and the acidity will often be softer.

It is a subtle, elegant wine whose regal refinement at Haut-Brion has been renowned for centuries, and this vertical tasting demonstrates the ability of the property to scale the ultimate heights of quality in Bordeaux.

How this vertical tasting was organised

One of the great pleasures in life is enjoying top wines with friends. Over the years, I have been fortunate to have received generous invitations from a keen wine collector in Atlanta, Georgia, named Mark Taylor. Taylor is the inventor of The Durand® corkscrew that combines the ‘Ah-So’ and traditional wine openers, guaranteed to remove even the trickiest corks from the necks of venerable bottles. Each spring, he generously hosts a weekend event featuring the wines of Bordeaux from his collection. This year’s themes were first-growth verticals from châteaux Haut-Brion and Margaux – truly a rare treat.

The Durand was named in honour of the late and much-loved local wine legend Yves Durand, who ably led Atlanta-area tastings for many years, assisted by Master Sommelier Michael McNeill. Since Yves’ passing, I have helped Michael organise the event. Although everyone knows the theme, the wines are poured blind. The twenty or so participants take turns commenting on the wines and make an effort to guess the vintages. Although the audience includes some professionals, it primarily comprises wine lovers and collectors, many based locally. The atmosphere is collegial and friendly as we work our way through a dozen glorious wines each day. This year, we began with a selection of vintages of Haut-Brion from 1982 – 2010.

On the day, the wines showed well indeed. Considered in chronological order, the ‘bookends’ of 2010 and 1982 stood out to me. I had the 1982 vintage as the wine of the tasting just in front of the much-heralded (and highly-priced) 1989.

The ‘usual suspects’ for greatness also came through, with delicious showings for the 2000, 2005, and 2009 vintages. I found the 2002 and 2004 vintages relatively disappointing in this context but was agreeably surprised by how much I enjoyed the 2006.

Regarding drinkability, my general view was that all were delicious now (even the 2010 and 2009), but those younger than the 2000 vintage would benefit significantly from more cellaring. The pre-millennial wines can be considered mature but not overly so, and all (even the 1982) can be aged for decades to come without concern.

See Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores for 12 vintages of Château Haut-Brion

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Château Margaux has long been an enigma to me. It has a very high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in its vineyards—more than any other first growth save Château Latour—and Cabernet often dominates the wine.

Both the 2000 and 2010 vintages are 90% Cabernet. Yet despite the preponderance of this grape, the word that springs most readily to mind in describing the wines of this château is ‘finesse’.

Scroll down to see Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores for 17 vintages of Château Margaux

Château Margaux often strikes me as an eminently silky and approachable wine, in contrast to Latour, which seems more muscular and rough-hewn, particularly in its youth.

This ripeness may be down to the depth of the gravel beds, something the former director Paul Pontallier often emphasised. But gravel is typical in the Médoc, while the finesse of Château Margaux is altogether unique.

The birth of Château Margaux

It is thought that the estate dates to the 12th century; Penning-Rowsell says in The Wines of Bordeaux that it belonged to the English king Edward II, although I can find no corroboration for this. Vines were first planted by Pierre de Lestonnac in the late 16th century. By the end of the 17th century, it had attained its present size, and the property came to increasing prominence in the following century.

Early American presidents Thomas Jefferson and John Adams highly lauded the wine of Margaux after their visits in the 1780s. Confiscated during the Revolution, the château was sold several times during the 19th century and saw the turn of the 20th century as the property of banker Count Frédéric Pillet-Will, who emblazoned his name on the label at the time.

Under his administration, the château created the second wine, Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux. The estate now produces three separate bottlings, the grand vin, Pavillon Rouge and a straight Margaux. The selection for the grand vin is particularly severe.

The château ran into financial difficulties during the phylloxera crisis near the end of the Pillet-Will period, but the family was saved by an infusion of cash from the count’s son-in-law, Louis-Charles de La Trémoille. According to author Nicholas Faith, in his work on the château, La Trémoille resolved to sell the property after losing in the parliamentary elections, and the château was sold to a consortium of investors in 1921, organised by the courtier Pierre Moreau.

Among the purchasers was négociant Fernand Ginestet, whose importer in Saigon loaned him the funds to invest. The Ginestet family would increase their share gradually until they became the sole proprietors in 1950 under Fernand’s son Pierre.

At a previous tasting at the Beau Rivage Hotel in Geneva, I enjoyed two vintages from the Ginestet years, the 1928 and the 1949. Both still showed exceptionally well in 2012, and the 1928 was particularly youthful. Another famous vintage from the Ginestet tenure was the 1966, which I have enjoyed on several occasions and is still in form today.

Although the wines from the later years of this period have not always enjoyed the best reputation, there were undoubtedly memorable high points during the period. As at many châteaux, the years following the energy crisis and recession of the early 1970s were difficult, exacerbated by poor vintages in 1972, 1973 and 1974.

A first growth revival

The Ginestet family was forced to sell the jewel of their empire, although it took them several years to do so. My selection includes the 1978 vintage which was the first vintage completed after the acquisition of the estate by André Mentzelopoulos. His purchase marked the beginning of the true renaissance of Château Margaux. Mentzelopoulos invested greatly in the estate and hired the famous oenologist Emile Peynaud.

Mentzelopoulos was succeeded by his wife and daughter, Corinne, upon his death in 1980, and Corinne became the driving force at the château. She appointed the legendary Paul Pontallier in 1983 as oenologist. He later became the managing director and was the face of the château for 33 years until he passed away suddenly in 2016.

Today, Corinne Mentzelopoulos is still at the helm, joined by her daughter Alexandra and her son Alexis. The managing director is Philippe Bascaules, the technical director is Sébastien Vergne and the commercial director is Aurélien Valance.

Lay of the land

When I visited in 2000, the size of the estate was given as 262ha, nearly the same as in the 17th century. 78ha is planted to vines, with 66ha of black grapes and 12ha of Sauvignon Blanc.

Approaching the château from the south along the famous alley of ancient plane trees, one is surrounded by vineyards on every side, but most of the vineyards (and those most prized) lie behind the château to the north, on the gentle slopes overlooking the Gironde. There are two principal sites for the best grapes.

The walled clos of Le Cap de Haut is split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, while the rocky confines of Le Puch Sem Peyre (‘well without stones’ in Gascon) are wholly devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Further to the west, the Sauvignon Blanc for Pavillon Blanc is planted in soils with more limestone, and there is a small amount of Cabernet Franc and some 60-year-old vines of Petit Verdot along the road to St-Julien.

The Cabernet is planted along the gravel mounds from whence came the original name of the property, La Mothe de Margaux, while the Merlot is planted where there is more clay, and ceramic drains are installed as needed.

There is even a small parcel called Les Brauzes along the border with Château Palmer that had a hard layer of clay which impeded drainage of this section, so much so that Mentzelopoulos had it excavated and replaced with earth from elsewhere on the estate. The property practises sustainable agriculture, mainly employing organic principles (although it is not certified) and does not use pesticides.

The grapes are picked when ripe, but not exaggeratedly so. Fermentation is done in a combination of oak and stainless-steel vats. After a fermentation that can approach four weeks, the finished wine is run into casks where it will age for up to two years before fining with egg whites and bottling.

The entire process is traditional, measured and balanced, and this harmony comes through in the finished wine. The beauty of Château Margaux is in its elegance, and this vertical tasting easily demonstrates how richly it merits its centuries of accolades.

How this vertical tasting was organised

As a companion to the soon-to-be-published vertical of Château Haut-Brion, host Mark Taylor (long-time fine wine collector and inventor of The Durand® – a patented, two part device that enables the removal of older and fragile wine corks whole and intact), treated us to the opportunity to luxuriate in the deliciously silken wines of Château Margaux. The preparations begin several hours before the start. Master Sommelier Michael McNeill and I open and taste the wines with the help of Ohio-based collector John Hames, looking for cork taint and other faults. We double-decant the younger wines to clean them of sediment and help them open up, then bag the wines and number them to protect their identity.

Moments before tasting (right after a glass of white Burgundy and a light snack), a phalanx of volunteers pours the wines, and we begin to ponder them. This year, however, we encountered a problem – one of the bottles of the 1982 vintage was oxidized and could not be served. In this instance, Mark Taylor would replace the bottle if possible, but he did not have a replacement for the 1982. We decided after much debate that we would open a bottle of the 1978 (the first vintage for the present owners), and half of the tasters would get the former and the other half, the latter.

The most striking aspect of this vertical tasting was the rock-solid consistency and quality of the wines under the Mentzelopoulos ownership. The 2000, 2009, and 2010 vintages understandably proved to be high points. The only disappointment (if any) was the 2004 vintage, a notoriously challenging one in Bordeaux.

I do not mean to say the wines do not evolve, since I have had the 1990 vintage on many occasions, and it has changed over time. This year it seemed more solid, firm, and almost more youthful than it has in the past, when it has seemed voluptuous and approachable. The evidence of this tasting suggests that prudent collectors would wait for the 2010, 2009, 2006, and 2003 vintages. The delightfully accessible 2002 vintage and all those produced before it seem ready to drink.

My sense is that the monumental 1982 still has a long future before it, while the 1978, though delightful now, should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.

See Charles Curtis MW’s notes and scores of 17 Château Margaux wines

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When considering the finest estates of the Médoc, there is no shortage of names which spring to mind.

The 61 which comprise Bordeaux’s grands crus classés are likely first on any list, with top crus bourgeois châteaux following close behind.

Yet, it is unlikely that Listrac (together with neighbouring Moulis) will feature high on many wine lovers’ lists.

A reappraisal is needed.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 11 Château Clarke wines

Granted AP status in 1957, the soils of Listrac are less uniform than those of Moulis, with Cabernet Sauvignon often struggling to fully ripen.

Despite the low profile of these appellations, which are located inland between Pauillac to the north and Margaux to the south-east, the results of the tasting showed that the Baron’s ambitions, combined with substantial investment and the benefit of careful ageing, were well placed.

Vertical tasting

Ten reds were shown, ranging from 1982 to 2018, together with the estate’s white, Le Merle Blanc. The château produces around 230,000 bottles of the grand vin and a mere 15,000 of Le Merle Blanc.

Some of the older wines, although clearly from a different era of winemaking and climate, astonished with their purity and youth. Baron Edmond always believed in this terroir, where clay-limestone soils encourage and require a high proportion of Merlot. The character of the place showed crystal-clear through all the wines which had been perfectly stored and sent direct from the château.

Château Clarke’s technical director, Fabrice Darmaillacq, introduced the estate and its wines, explaining that their objective is ‘to enhance all of our potential in the vineyard and cellar,’ and that the ultimate aspiration is for Château Clarke to be at the ‘level of the best grand crus in the Médoc.’

A succession of consultant winemakers have passed through the doors of Château Clarke, a list which reads like a veritable who’s-who of Bordeaux consultants from the past 30 years.

Emile Peynaud was involved with the 1982 and 1986 vintages, succeeded from 1990 by Jacques Boissenot – a vintage where Cabernet Franc was excluded from the blend, the wine being 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Sauvignon. ‘Château Clarke is always moving,’ Darmaillacq observed.

For the 2001, 2005 and 2010 vintages, Michel Rolland was consulting and, although his handprint was clearly recognisable in the richness and power of the wines, they have mellowed with age, becoming extremely fine examples of Listrac.

For the 2015 vintage, Rolland shared duties with Eric Boissenot (the latter only in the blending), with Boissenot taking over fully from 2016.

With the wines from 2001, 2005, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2018 all being a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, the importance of the property’s deep clay soils has been confirmed.

Winemaking

Since 1998, the château has adopted a much greater use of new barriques for malolactic fermentation, with significantly increased ageing in wood, undoubtedly adding a much greater glossiness to the wines.

Quality jumped again with the fine vintages of 2015 and, particularly, 2016 which saw Eric Boissenot now fully in charge as consultant oenologist, with a greater focus on balance and precision, allied to ripe fruit flavours.

It is surprising to see a Médoc wine with such high proportions of Merlot in the blend, but for lovers of this grape variety it is well worth considering as an alternative to grand cru classé wines from St-Emilion.

The wines of Château Clarke show lovely ripeness of Merlot fruit allied to the structure typical of the Médoc. They are clearly capable of extremely long ageing and are well worth seeking out.

New cellar

Looking to the future and the wines are set to get even better with the introduction of a brand new cellar and winemaking facilities in operation for the 2022 harvest.

Opened officially in June 2023, a near-€20 million investment that took more than three years to complete, has seen the number of stainless steel vats increase to 45, varying in size from 50-160hl for parcel-by-parcel vinifications and a dedicated space for the estate’s white wine, Merle Blanc.

There is also a new, panoramic tasting room overlooking the sprawling vineyards which are also part of a new future-proofing study to determine the most suitable grapes and rootstocks for the terroir.

See tasting notes and scores of 11 Château Clarke wines

The wines are listed in vintage order youngest to oldest

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Christine Marsiglio MW, Freddy Bulmer and Roger Jones tasted 60 wines with 9 Outstanding and 32 Highly recommended.

New Zealand reds beyond Pinot Noir: Panel tasting scores

60 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 32

Recommended 15

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release still red wines made from any varietal or blend except those including Pinot Noir, from any region around New Zealand.

New Zealand’s reputation in the wine world is often dominated first by its pungent Sauvignon Blancs, followed by its elegant Pinot Noirs, yet this tasting underlined the brilliance of a category for which the nation deserves to be better celebrated. Red grapes in New Zealand that are not Pinot Noir represent less than 5% of all plantings (New Zealand Winegrowers, 2022).

However, the wines we tasted here performed exceptionally well, with an astounding 15% rated as Outstanding.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the New Zealand reds beyond Pinot Noir panel tasting

Among the line-up of varieties, Syrah emerged as the star performer. Accounting for just 1% of the total area under vine in New Zealand, Syrah accounted for 30 wines in the tasting, of which six garnered Outstanding scores, hinting at a hidden potential in this variety. Equally deserving of recognition were the Bordeaux varieties, specifically Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Only three varietal Cabernet Francs were entered, but all received scores of 92 points or more, with the top-scorer showing the purity and finesse New Zealand can deliver.

In a promising showcase, the highest mark of the day was secured by an iconic Cabernet Sauvignon, demonstrating the varietal’s excellent adaptation to the gravelly soils of Hawke’s Bay. The panel noticed the climatic benefits of Hawke’s Bay and Waiheke Island as the warmest parts of New Zealand. Both North Island regions showed power, intensity and finesse, but Waiheke Island, 20km off the Auckland coast, was distinguishable for its riper, bolder fruit character.

‘The Syrahs from Hawke’s Bay are very good,’ said Freddy Bulmer. ‘Perhaps this could be the future of the region rather than Bordeaux varieties?’ This sentiment was reflected in the results, with most of the top-scoring Syrahs emerging from either Waiheke or Hawke’s Bay, although no consistent superiority was detected from the latter’s famed Gimblett Gravels sub-region.

New Zealand’s Syrah – notably not named Shiraz, to reflect its more French-influenced style – has pronounced peppery notes, floral undertones and an elegant profile, bearing a striking resemblance to the expressions from the northern Rhône. Bordeaux varieties have a distinct fruit plushness characteristic of sunnier climates, yet an elegance not often found outside their Gallic homeland.

Drawing such distinctions is somewhat controversial these days, as there is a growing debate about the validity of comparing New World and Old World styles. However, Roger Jones felt it keeps winemakers everywhere from resting on their laurels. ‘Competition and comparison is good for all regions – it pushes everyone to do better.’

See all the New Zealand red wines from the panel tasting

Beyond its world-renowned Pinot Noir, New Zealand’s red wines deserve a broader recognition. Based on this line-up, the country’s Syrahs in particular, along with Bordeaux varieties, display a particular vivacity and charm, demonstrating great depth from such a small wine nation.

Not all wines performed perfectly, but if you’re looking to expand your horizons, the wines noted here are a great place to start.

New Zealand reds beyond Pinot Noir panel tasting scores

The judges

Christine Marsiglio MW is a wine communicator, educator and judge currently working as director of education for Wine Folly. A Master of Wine since 2019, she previously worked as a wine educator and program manager at the WSET school in London.

Freddy Bulmer is a wine and beer buyer for The Wine Society, responsible for its New Zealand range as well as Australia, Austria and Eastern Europe. A DWWA judge, he began his career in wine working for independent wine merchants in Yorkshire.

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.

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Repeated applause from 300 dinner guests greeted Peter Kwok and his family, as he hosted a belated, Covid-delayed celebration this past April for the recently renovated cellars at Château Bellefont-Belcier, a grand cru classé in St-Émilion that the Chinese billionaire acquired in 2017.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 10 vintages from Château Bellefont-Belcier

Under a massive tent to protect against rain falling on elaborate table settings, the dinner also feted Kwok’s 25th vintage in Bordeaux: in 1997 he acquired Château Haut-Brisson St-Émilion Grand Cru, the first of seven properties under his company name Vignobles K.

Winemaking director Jean-Christophe Meyrou said a third reason to celebrate was for another Vignobles K property, Château Tour Saint Christophe, which was promoted last year from St-Émilion grand cru to grand cru classé in the appellation’s 10-year revisable classification.

But the jewel of the Vignobles K crown is Château Bellefont-Belcier. Created in the late 18th century, the estate is located on south-facing slopes in Saint-Laurent-des-Combes, neighbouring two premiers grands crus classés – Château Pavie, rated ‘A’, and Château Larcis-Ducasse – and the iconoclastic, non-classified Château Tertre Rôteboeuf.

Bellefont-Belcier extends over 13.5ha in one piece, but divided into three areas: the limestone plateau, the south clay-limestone slope and clayey-sandy parcels.

While the terroir is excellent, heavy-handed viticulture and winemaking had obscured potential fruit freshness and wet stone character, but since Peter Kwok acquired the estate in 2017, the wine has improved: ‘A lot’, says US wine merchant Jeff Zacharia of Zachys Wine in New York. ‘The wines are showing more fruit purity and freshness,’ he says.

In 2017, Kwok initiated a transition from what had been overly oaked wine with overripe fruit to a more classical style. Recent renovations – including cellar temperature controls and adding 40-hectolitre, egg-shaped wooden vats for ageing – have improved finesse, according to Meyrou.

Towards brightness and verve

For former Château Bellefont-Belcier technical director, Jérôme Aguirre, a close friend of Meyrou and who since 2022 works for Baron Philippe de Rothschild in the Médoc, 2018 marks ‘the real change in style for the estate’.

While Michel Rolland, known for later harvesting and new oak for ageing, still consults at Vignobles K, he left Château Bellefont-Belcier in 2016 to be later replaced by Thomas Duclos, who has a diametrically opposed style.

‘With Thomas, we focused more on freshness, on harvesting ripe grapes, but retaining a fresher profile, which meant picking certain parcels earlier,’ Aguirre says. ‘From then on, it has been a progression to greater balance.’

Château Bellefont-Belcier was hardly alone in reflecting what critics called ‘Parkerised’ wines in St-Emilion earlier this century. Indeed, many châteaux – from humble estates to some premier grands crus classés – often crafted more oaky, ultra-ripe wines.

The definition of maturity for Duclos is ‘quite different from that of our predecessors, but also our viticulture is more precise’, he says. ‘We taste each grape in different vine plots to harvest at the right time – and not one day beyond that.’

Fermentations are carried out without adding sulphur, while a minimum dose is added at the end of ageing.

With vinification in concrete tanks, extractions are adapted vat-by-vat to obtain desired profiles, Meyrou says. ‘The origin of the grapes (plateau, hillside, foot of hill) influences extraction work and the percentage of new barrels has been greatly reduced to meet the needs of the wine, and not to dominate it,’ he adds.

Attracting talent and motivation

One sign of this estate’s success is how it attracts talent: Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny joined Vignobles K last year to replace the gifted Aguirre. She had worked no less than 25 years with Château Angélus (and Michel Rolland) in St-Emilion.

Fulchi d’Aligny was on hand last year as Champagne flowed to celebrate the promotion of Château Tour Saint Christophe. There was a true sense of camaraderie, with Meyrou stressing the virtues of teamwork: ‘I strongly believe in human value, having the “right gesture” and know-how in the vineyards,’ he told me during that celebration.

‘Team loyalty and support is a priority for us and not just a figment of the imagination.’ Indeed, after having known Meyrou these past few years and members of his talented team, the quality of personnel is impeccable.

Future perspectives

St-Emilion is unique for its revisable classification. Every 10 years, châteaux vie for promotion, submitting dossiers to argue how their wines have improved enough to merit higher ranking – and having their wines judged in blind tastings by an independent jury.

While Château Tour Saint Christophe succeeded last year, Château Bellefont-Belcier did not. ‘We tried to get a promotion (to premier grand cru classé) Meyrou told me, but ‘without success’.

The vertical tasting which spanned 2010-2020 clearly shows how a major stylistic change might have given an incoherent image to a tasting jury, but the estate seems on the right path for next time around.

At a glance

Created Late 18th century

Owner Peter Kwok and family / Vignobles K

Director Jean-Christophe Meyrou

Technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny

Consultant Thomas Duclos

Vineyards 13.5ha

Density 8,000 vines per hectare

Average vine age 35 years

Grape varieties 72% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaking Gentle extraction, low temperature fermentation

Ageing 12-14 months in 20%-30% new oak, and with 40-hectolitre containers since 2018

Some decry the controversial classification as meaningless, because few end-buyers know what is ‘classé’ and what is not. It has been encumbered by lawsuits over conflict of interest and the departure of top estates Châteaux Cheval Blanc and Ausone, followed by Angélus as well as La Gaffelière.

‘But it keeps us alert,’ Meyrou says. ‘This is the spirit of the ranking, having positive pressure that forces us to do better all the time,’ he explains. ‘We will do our best to represent our dossier in the next ranking, and we still have a few years to improve.’

Partly because one ranking criterion is how well estates welcome visitors, St-Emilion has engendered a flourishing wine tourism industry, which Vignobles K embraces: ‘It is not just a box to tick for the ranking,’ Meyrou stresses, ‘but rather to create a sustainable economic activity – and to make our estate known to wine lovers worldwide.’

The over one million people who visit St-Emilion annually expect châteaux to fulfil visits. Château Bellefont-Belcier does so seven days a week and throughout the year.

To date, the estate employs six full-time people for wine tourism, which represents 20% of its turnover. ‘Our offer is complete,’ says Meyrou. ‘It starts with a simple tasting visit, up to a stay at the estate, all enhanced by the possibility of joining our wine club.’

While its embrace of wine tourism is another nod to the overarching regeneration of the estate, it’s the wines, quite appropriately, where one can note a distinct line in the sand.

Tasting a vertical of Château Bellefont-Belcier from 2010 to 2020, the difference is dramatic. While ‘star’ vintages like 2010, 2015 and 2016 display excessive new oak tannin and tired fruit, vintages from 2018 to the present 2022 are brighter and more vibrant.

I detected positive change with the 2017 vintage, when Kwok’s team took charge of ageing: A key difference was 14 months in 40% new oak barrels as opposed to the previous habit of up to 20 months in 80% new oak.

The sum of all these parts add up to a château which has finally found its feet and is beginning to realise its full potential.

Château Bellefont-Belcier vertical: 10 vintages tasted and rated

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