Two hundred years ago, long before it became the buzzing holiday resort it is today, Málaga meant wine. Made from Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez and named after the region’s hinterland mountains where the grapes were grown, the internationally famous ‘Málaga mountain wine’ was as highly regarded as Sherry (from the Cádiz province, further west).

Yet today the wines of Málaga are scarce in the city’s fine wine lists, with some rare exceptions that I’ll be featuring in the pages that follow. The arrival of the destructive vine-root louse phylloxera in 1878 spelled the end of the then buoyant Málaga wine industry.

Rather than struggle on, it was easier for growers to abandon many of the distant and difficult to manage mountain vineyards – olives and almonds were a much more straightforward crop to plant lower down.

New enthusiasm

While the Romans knew all about the wines of the region, by the 20th century Málaga wine had disappeared from view. However, in an exciting turn of history, a new generation of vine-growers and winemakers – some local, some from elsewhere – are now waking the region from its sleep.

The future is particularly bright – even if some of the finest vineyards are in places that are as difficult to get to and work as ever. If you want a great holiday with sunshine, history and fine wine, then Málaga is the place to go.

For wine lovers outside Spain, it should be high on the wish list, because a number of the most interesting wines have limited distribution in export.

Traditionally, Málaga was synonymous with sweet and fortified wine. There are historically famous brands, notably Málaga Virgen (for example, Reserva de Familia Pedro Ximénez).

The excitement today, however, is undoubtedly with the new generation. Two names stand out: Ordóñez and Telmo Rodríguez (pictured below). Long established in the region, the Ordóñez family began making sweet wines as a joint project in the early 2000s with the late, great Alois Kracher, the firebrand maker of sweet wines in Austria.

Distinctive to the Kracher portfolio in Austria, and to the Ordóñez wines in Málaga, is their ringing purity. Prior to that, it was in the late 1990s that Rodríguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkiza were drawn by the dramatic landscape, old vines and slate soils of the Axarquía – a rugged mountain-landscape region to the east of Málaga city distantly scattered with white painted houses.

Rodríguez highlights a key difference in the ways in which he and the Ordóñez family work: he prefers to use the pasera technique, the traditional sweet wine production method of laying out bunches of grapes on sloping ground in the open air to dry them.

The Kracher technique adopted by Ordóñez is to dry indoors – an approach originally dictated by Austria’s northern European climate. Whichever the method, both produce delicious wines.

Moscatel country

That viticulture in the region survived at all after phylloxera owes much to the business of Málaga raisins (pasas), Moscatel de Alejandría grapes carefully dried on paseras (traditionally floor spaces but also sloped racks).

This high-quality product, nothing to do with the supermarket raisin, has its own DO – Pasas de Málaga – which is also managed by DO Málaga.

We are in Moscatel de Alejandría country here and it feels ironic: in the global Moscatel rankings, Alejandría is seen as the poor relation to the small-berried variety known as ‘Petits Grains’.

Yet in Málaga, Moscatel de Alejandría shows its brilliance. One producer of lovely Moscatel is Bodegas Bentomiz, where winemaker Clara Verheij and her husband André Both have built a deserved reputation for their naturally sweet wines. Verheij prefers to stop fermentation by chilling, rather than fortification, retaining delicacy.

Her Ariyanas Moscatel-based wines, which include dry sur lie white and sweet expressions, are a fine example.

The DOs of Málaga at a glance

DO Málaga: (created 1933)

Wines: For sweet or fortified white wines, from five zones (roughly west to east): Serranía de Ronda, Manilva, Norte, Montes de Málaga, Axarquía

Classification: According to winemaking and ageing, ranging from the youthful dulce natural to the wines designated as trasañejo. These are aged for a minimum of five years but the best are age for far longer

Grapes: Mainly Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel de Alejandría

DO Sierras de Málaga (created 2001)

Wines: For dry wines and sweet reds. May come from anywhere across the province of Málaga. The Serranía de Ronda production zone is significant here

Grapes: A wide range of local and international varieties is permitted

Beyond sweet

A newer project in the Axarquía with real promise is Viñedos Verticales. In just a decade, Juan Muñoz and Vicente Inat, both deeply attached to the history and culture of the region, have built a fascinating portfolio.

There’s also Sedella. Focusing on red wines from the Axarquía’s steep, craggy hillsides, this exciting project is run by Lauren Rosillo, technical director of Familia Martínez Bujanda in Rioja. As Bentomiz, Viñedos Verticales and Sedella all show, the future of Málaga – even in the Axarquía – is not just sweet.

On the other, western side of the mountain this is very clear. Just as rugged and no less spectacular are the Montes de Málaga, where Victoria Ordóñez is the name to know. Since she struck out on her own in 2015, she has been a leading figure protecting the area’s vine-growing, which is under threat given the difficulty of managing the tiny, hard-to-access parcels.

These are scattered across steep slopes of between 46% and 76% gradient, amid trees and scrubland, at 800m-1,000m elevation: truly heroic viticulture. Ordóñez learned her sweet wine-making working alongside Kracher. Today, though, she has her own, eponymous business making dry wines – white and red – with her son Guillermo.

For the whites, she has been identifying and restoring old vineyards of Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez (locally known as Pero Ximen) to revive the production of Málaga’s ‘mountain wine’; yes, that’s the PX of Jerez and Montilla Moriles, but here transformed into dry wines of thrilling purity and minerality.

Cool, crisp highlands

The DO Sierras de Málaga is full of promise, in particular the area known as Serranía de Ronda to the west of Málaga city. Red and dry white winemaking started here in the 1980s to supply the burgeoning tourist industry down on the coast.

Typically for the time, the area was freshly planted with international varieties. At Cortijo Los Aguilares, a fabulous 800ha estate close to Ronda with some 25ha of vineyard, technical director Bibi García (pictured below) makes lovely Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir? In the south of Spain? Yes – because the vineyards lie between two sierras, at 900m, where they benefit from refreshing winds and a wide diurnal temperature range.

Among its reds, varietal wines made from Graciano and Garnacha, the two particularly interesting Petit Verdots under the Tadeo label, and now a white (since the 2022 vintage), have all sealed García’s reputation and helped draw attention to the region.

The Serranía de Ronda is on the up, and there’s real reason to stay overnight and visit the growing number of wineries, rather than just making a day trip to see the famous gorge, impressive though it is. Come to Málaga to discover a thriving wine world.

Find a new facet to varieties you thought you knew – in my case Pedro Ximénez. Already a year-round destination, Málaga now deserves to be known for its fine wines and winemakers.

The modern face of Málaga: Sarah-Jane’s top eight

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We explain the differences between Muscat, Moscatel and Moscato grapes. Muscat is the overarching family of grapes. Moscato is the Italian term for Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, known for wines like Moscato d’Asti. Moscatel is the Iberian term for Muscat of Alexandria, typically used for sweet wines in Spain and Portugal.

The family of grapes which sit under the ‘Muscat’ nomenclature is one of the oldest, most varied and most widely planted grape families in the world. As you might expect, there are many different synonyms for these grapes, depending on locality and specific genetic identity.

The wines produced from the Muscat family can range from still to sparkling, dry to sweet, light to dark. Below you’ll find a useful guide to unravel the differences between Muscat, Moscatel and Moscato.

The term ‘Muscat’ can refer either generally to the overarching family of grapes, or more precisely to the two key varieties in the family group, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Muscat of Alexandria. Note that the French grape, Muscadelle, most commonly associated with Bordeaux, has no relation to the Muscat family.

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (aka Moscato Bianco; Moscatel de Grano Menudo; Muskateller; Muscat of Frontignan; Moschato Spinas, Brown Muscat, Sàrga Muskotály) has small, yellow-hued berries which can produce dry to sweet wines with a distinct floral perfume of orange blossom and honeysuckle. Some mutations of Muscat can be pink, red or even a dark brown.

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (in its various forms mentioned above) is the grape of Moscato d’Asti, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Clairette de Die, Muscat de Rivesaltes and some vin doux naturel, Muscat of Samos, Muscat of Patras and Rutherglen Muscat.

Muscat of Alexandria (aka Moscatel Gordo; Moscatel de España; Moscatel de Málaga; Muscat Romain; Zibibbo) produces larger and darker berries, commonly resulting in concentrated sweet wines – although some dry examples can be found. While still aromatic, Muscat of Alexandria tends to be more subdued in its fragrance compared to Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, and is one of the very few varieties in the world which can be described as actually having the scent of grapes.

DNA analysis has confirmed that Muscat of Alexandria is the result of an ancient natural crossing of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Axina de Tres Bias, a black-skinned variety originating in Greece. So ancient that Muscat of Alexandria was around at the time of the Romans, who helped to plant it widely in their sphere of influence around the Mediterranean.

Zibibbo (or Inzolia/Insolia) is the southern Italian synonym for Muscat of Alexandria, and while Sicily produces some good examples from the grape, the tiny island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and the Tunisian coast, produces some of Italy’s finest sweet wines from Zibibbo.

A third, lesser known Muscat worth noting briefly is Muscat Ottonel. A 19th century crossing of Chasselas and Muscat grown in the Loire valley, today Muscat Ottonel is typically found in parts of eastern Europe including Bulgaria, Romania and Hungary, as well as Austria and the Alsace region of France.

What is Moscatel?

Moscatel is the Iberian term for Muscat of Alexandria. In Spain, Moscatel is most commonly grown in Málaga, Alicante and Valencia and usually produces sweet wines. It’s sometimes used in the production of sweet Sherry styles, although the Pedro Ximenez grape is more common. In Portugal, Moscatel can be used to craft the sweet wines of Madeira as well as Moscatel de Setúbal.

What is Moscato?

Moscato is the Italian term for Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and is best known for producing the sweet and dry, still and sparkling wines of Asti and Moscato d’Asti in Piedmont. Unlike the fortified wines of France and Spain, Moscato is vinified using a technique which involves chilling the wine down prior to the completion of fermentation in steel. This leaves an abundance of sugar in the wine, which, due to the halting of fermentation, has a low ABV (generally around 5 to 5.5%). Italian Moscato is often bottled with a bit of carbon dioxide, which creates a slight-yet-pleasant fizziness in the wines.

Moscato Rosa is a little known but high quality red-hued variety, mostly found in small quantities in the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy, where it makes sweet wines with striking fragrance and flavours hinting at red fruits and rose petals.

Comparisons

So if you’re wondering what the difference between Muscat, Moscato and Moscatel is, the simple answer is that Muscat is the family group, while Moscato is a synonym for Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, and Moscatel is a synonym for Muscat of Alexandria.

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• Regional profile: Celebrating Rutherglen’s liquid gold

‘We’re about to celebrate 150 years of continuous family ownership.’ says Wendy Killeen of Stanton & Killeen, a lauded Rutherglen producer spanning seven generations. ‘We’re one of three continuous historical family operations in the region.’

It’s a mild summer’s day in northeast Victoria, and the region’s putting on a superb showing of crisp blue skies and slow bucolic charm reminiscent of a bygone era.

In fact, walking into most Rutherglen barrel rooms brings the eerie, all-consuming feeling that you’ve stepped back in time. Dust dances in the dim, dappled light filtering down from the old, low tin-shed roofs.

Rows of elderly oak barrels sit stoic, proud and dutiful. They exude the haunting presence that can only come from having weathered world wars, livelihood-draining drought, the great depression and devastating floods, to name a few.

In these cellars, the digital age feels like a distant, whimsical dream you suddenly can’t recall. Or perhaps you don’t want to, for risk of cooling the warm nostalgia. All of this raises a niggling question, however – has much changed over 170-odd years of Rutherglen wine?

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 18 wines from Rutherglen

Going for gold

The Victorian gold rush brought an avalanche of wealth to the Australian economy in the 1850s and 1860s. And when prospectors struck gold at a site in northeast Victoria in September 1860, the town that became Rutherglen was set up almost overnight.

A frenzied mass of wealth-hunting workers descended on the area and, only one month later, there were 40 stores and dozens of makeshift pubs sprawled across the goldfields.

One man, however, had previously discovered a different type of gold; one that was hidden in plain sight – the mineral rich red loam over clay.

Lindsay Brown planted Rutherglen’s first 1.6ha of vines in 1851; thus he is referred to as the father of the Rutherglen wine industry.

He’s credited with the enduring quote: ‘Dig gentleman dig, but no deeper than six inches, for there is more gold to be won from the top six inches than from all of the depths below.’

Land and climate

The traditional home of the Yorta Yorta people, Rutherglen is located 296 kilometres northeast of Melbourne, Victoria. The region is 998 km2 with a total of 781 hectares under vine and around 20 wineries.

Being in Victoria’s far northeast, Australia’s longest river, the Murray River, forms the border to New South Wales and to the region itself.

Rutherglen boasts a continental climate with warm, sunny days, and cool nights thanks to airflow from the nearby Victorian Alps. All of this makes for long, dry growing seasons resulting in wines of intensity, richness, and concentration.

This is quintessential Australian farmland; arid and sprawling, dusty and uncompromising. A vast, dry expanse of paddock and gum. Yet, punctuating this harsh terrain is lush green vineyard oases responsible for some of the most unique wines in the world.

‘Rutherglen’s unique selling point is our world-class fortified wines,’ says winemaker Jen Pfeiffer of Pfeiffer Wines. ‘Specifically, Rutherglen Topaque and Rutherglen Muscat. These wines are not only unique to Australia, but they are unique to Rutherglen, and attract attention on a world stage.’

Rutherglen fortified style guide

Muscat

Grape variety: Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge

Typical aromas: orange blossom, espresso, Turkish Delight, nuts, toffee, dark chocolate, Christmas spice, rose hip, raisins

Typical flavours: Raisin, dried fig, roasted nuts, Christmas spice, toffee, salted caramel, dark chocolate, molasses

Sweetness: high

Alcohol: usually around 18%

Classification system: Rutherglen Muscat is classified using a tiered system that indicates the wine’s level of complexity. In order of lowest to highest, the tiers are Rutherglen Muscat, Classic Rutherglen Muscat, Grand Rutherglen Muscat and Rare Rutherglen Muscat. Each classification increases progressively in terms of richness, complexity, age, and intensity.

Topaque

Grape variety: Muscadelle

Typical aromas: cold tea leaf, toffee, honey, citrus, quince, candied fruits, butterscotch

Typical flavours: toffee, honey, cold tea, malt, walnut

Sweetness: high

Alcohol: usually around 18%

Classification system: Topaque uses the same classification system as Muscat, using the classifications of Rutherglen Topaque, Classic Rutherglen Topaque, Grand Rutherglen Topaque and Rare Rutherglen Topaque.

Source: Winemakers of Rutherglen 

Wine styles

The three main types of fortified wines coming out of Rutherglen are Muscat, Topaque and ‘port’ (see above). While the latter is undoubtedly world class, it’s the former two that the region is most famous for, and in that order. A mix of large and small format barrels hold these sleeping giants, with some of the material dating back to before the First World War.

Winemakers use these barrels as solera systems, blending older material with younger to create rich and often profoundly complex fortified wines. The grapes need to be very ripe for the production of these wines, making Rutherglen’s warm and sunny climate a perfect fit.

The highest quality examples are developed in barrels over generations, and many 40-something-year-old winemakers are still pouring their ‘Dad’s wine’ and referring to themselves as ‘custodians’.

When it comes to table wines, old-vine Durif and Shiraz lead the charge, having garnered a reputation for balancing power and elegance, making them primed for the cellar. Durif is the most unique table wine offering, however, and is somewhat synonymous with Rutherglen.

These wines are typically deep inky purple-red in colour, full-bodied, and packed with dark fruit, spice and leather notes.

Sometimes referred to as ‘Shiraz on steroids’, certain iterations are not for the faint of heart. ‘Durif drinkers drink with their eyes,’ says Pfeiffer, a glint in her own pupil. ‘They see that dark, inky colour and they know exactly what’s coming!’

Cabernet Sauvignon also features prominently in the region, with various other red grapes to a lesser extent. Rich and textural whites are plentiful, with extensive plantings of Marsanne, Viognier, Roussanne and Chardonnay. Table wines are important for the sustainability of the region, not only in terms of broadening appeal, but in preserving its legacy.

‘We exist in a ‘table wine world’ these days,’ says Pfeiffer. ‘So strength in our table wines helps us in our pursuit of making (and funding) our grand old fortified wines. While we produce big bold reds such as Durif, and fuller, textural styles of Marsanne, many table wines are being made with a light touch as well, such as the Pfeiffer Gamay, which is 100% carbonic maceration.’

Past and future

Rutherglen’s popularity has waxed and waned over time, leading to a need for evolution while balancing respect for history and tradition. ‘Rutherglen was once 100% fortified in its production and all sent to the Mother Country via horse and cart, train and ship,’ says winemaker Nick Brown.

Along with his two sisters, Nick owns and runs three Rutherglen wineries: All Saints Estate, St Leonards and Mount Ophir Estate. ‘Fortified production is far less these days, yet no less important, but we are showing through new varietal plantings and technology that we are progressive and energetic.’

This is incontrovertibly true. Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA) is the country’s national programme for grape growers and winemakers committed to making sustainable wine. It involves comprehensive training, the implementation of specific processes and a willingness to change; not to mention the rigorous audits.

It’s abundantly clear that a commitment to the future is rife within this small-but-determined collective of collaborative wineries. In fact, Rutherglen has positioned itself as a leader in sustainable winegrowing. ‘Winemakers of Rutherglen’ is a membership association with 16 members,’ says Killeen. ‘Of the members, there are 13 SWA certified wineries which is 80% of membership. The hope is we will be 100% SWA certified in the coming months.’

Has much changed over 170-odd years of Rutherglen wine? It’s a firm ‘yes’, and it’s not stopping any time soon. ‘Innovation by our community members will take Rutherglen to another level,’ notes Killeen. Equally, however, nothing has been fixed that wasn’t broken, and nestled in those old, dimly lit barrel rooms, Rutherglen’s historical fortified wines remain perfectly the same.

Eight Rutherglen names to know

All Saints Estate

All Saints was established in 1864 and is now owned by fourth generation siblings, Eliza, Angela and Nick Brown. They have some brilliant old-vine plantings, such as Shiraz planted in 1920, Muscat planted in 1930, Cabernet Sauvignon planted in 1950 and Marsanne planted in 1958. Known for producing both high-quality fortified and still wines, the winery is a striking and regal heritage listed redbrick castle, with a stunning cellar door and an acclaimed restaurant.

Campbells

A name synonymous with Rutherglen, Campbells produces an array of quality bottles spanning red, white, rose, sparkling and, of course, fortified wines. Currently owned by fifth generation sisters Jane and Julie Campbell, the winery’s famed cuvées include Bobbie Burns Shiraz and The Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat. Known for its consistency of quality, Campbells puts the diversity of Rutherglen wines on display.

Chambers Rosewood Vineyards

An historic, family-owned producer established in 1858. Over generations, Chambers has garnered a reputation for producing some of the most complex fortified wines of the region. It also makes a range of still wines, including the rarely seen Gouais Blanc variety, made from 100-year-old vines, and Blue Imperial (a Rutherglen synonym for Cinsault).

Jones Winery & Vineyard

Established in 1860, Jones is a family-owned producer of six generations. Siblings Mandy Jones and Arthur Jones are at the helm, with Mandy in charge of winemaking; she has a reputation for a deft hand with specialties of Durif, Shiraz and Muscat. While Mandy worked in Bordeaux for 14 years, she was also a student at Le Cordon Bleu. Needless to say, the winery restaurant is highly regarded.

Morris of Rutherglen

This stalwart producer was established in 1859 and by 1885, a mere 26 years later, it had grown to over 80ha making them the biggest producer in the southern hemisphere. Since that time, Morris has continuously commanded the attention of the wine world with. Fourth generation winemaker, Charles Henry (Mick) Morris is considered a pioneer of Durif production in the region. His grandson, sixth-generation Madden Morris, is now chief winemaker.

Pfeiffer Wines

There’s a loveable quirk and energy about winemaker Jen Pfeiffer which permeates the business. The wines, however, are totally serious in terms of quality and expressiveness. Beside its wonderfully complex and beguiling fortified wines, Pfeiffer lays claim to a 3ha plot of Pinot Noir vines, with clonal lineage that goes back to pre-phylloxera Clos de Vougeot. There’s also old-vine Gamay, which yields a bright and pure expression. The relatively cool Sunday Creek vineyard makes for surprisingly bright, tensile and fresh Rutherglen table wines.

Scion Wine

A modern and progressive Rutherglen producer breathing new life into the region. Wine styles are bright and vivacious, including various takes on Durif presented in fresh and new-school iterations. Sustainability permeates every move at Scion; it’s hard not to like the wines and wine labels (see below). Winemaker Rowly Milhinch is self-taught, though with a history of winemaking in his heritage, being a descendant of George Francis Morris, founder of Morris of Rutherglen (see above).

Stanton & Killeen

A pioneering family-owned winery whose first vintage was in 1875. Stanton & Killeen is run by mother and daughter duo, Wendy and Natasha Killeen, who are sustainably and environmentally minded. Stanton & Killeen is best known for its high-quality, supremely ageworthy Portuguese-styled vintage ports, as well as its excellent Muscat and Topaque offerings. However, it also produces excellent table wines and has actively explored championed Portuguese table wines in its portfolio.

Rutherglen at a glance

Number of producers: 20

Land under vine: 781ha

Key varieties: Durif, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge, Muscadelle, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier

Soils: Three main soil types: sandy loam, red loam over clay, and shale and quartz

Climate: A continental climate with with warm, sunny days, and cool nights thanks to airflow from the nearby Victorian Alps

Top recent vintages: Table Wines: 2021, 2018, 2017, 2015, 2013. Fortified Wines: 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2013

Rutherglen: 18 top wines to try

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Following two days of blind tasting in Colmar earlier this year, 13 wines scored 95 points or more and 40 wines scored 92-94 points, with both the 2021 and 2020 vintages faring well.

Tasting notes for the top 60 wines from both vintages focus on Grand Cru Riesling, as well as Grand Cru Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer.

Scroll down to see the top 30 Alsace Grand Cru wines from 2020 and 2021

51 grands crus

Across the 15,500ha of total vineyard area in Alsace, there are 51 designated grands crus, yet very few of these are well-known to consumers. Though most consumers do not understand Burgundy or Bordeaux classifications in great detail, these two regions have a longer historical record and formidable brand identities. Alsace on the other hand did not introduce its modern classification until 1975, which doubled in size 1983 with its first 25 grand cru classifications.

Though not covered in this report, over 25% of all Alsace wine produced is traditional method sparkling, known as Crémant. Some of it amounts to mediocre mass-market fizz, but some talented producers are making superb bubbles that can rival Champagne. Some excellent examples to try include Mélanie Pfister’s Breit Extra Brut, Albert Mann’s Extra Brut and Domaine Muré’s Grand Millésime.

See all the Alsace vintage report tasting notes and scores here

2021: a classic vintage

2021 was a ‘difficult vintage,’ says Gilles Haeffelin, sommelier at Au Bon-Coin in Wintzenheim, with the lowest yields since the 1950s because of excessive rain and corresponding rot risk. Despite these difficulties, of 89 Rieslings tasted for this report many 2021s exuded exciting wet stone and citrus fruit characters and tangy acidity.

Lovers of freshness and elegance will likely prefer the 2021 vintage for more noticeable acidity and verve. Philippe Blanck of Domaine Paul Blanck in Kaysersberg says: ‘I will remember 2021 for its acidity and dry extract, an atypical vintage in the context of global warming, but also for its fine texture.’

Jérôme Mader of Domaine Jean-Luc Mader in Hunawihr says: ‘2021 is a classic vintage that we may not ever again make, as climate change takes us in a different direction. It reminds us of Alsace wines made 20 years ago.’

2020: a solar vintage

Mélanie Pfister, of her eponymous domaine in Dahlenheim, northern Alsace, says that 2020 proved to be a more typical, global warming era style, with higher alcohol levels than in 2021: ‘2020 is ripe, full-bodied, deep and with plenty of dry extract,’ she says.

Mader agrees: ‘2020 is more powerful and muscular, but it sometimes lacks the elegance and balance of 2021,’ which he finds ‘very aristocratic in its manifestation of wet stone minerality.’

Cooler soils like clay were better suited to 2020, while warmer granite soils suited 2021 better, says Guillaume Mochel of Domaine Frédéric Mochel in Traenheim.

Mader stresses that grand cru wines are generally from sunnier terroirs where the grapes are meant to ‘ripen perfectly,’ so in solar years like 2020, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer from grands crus can be ‘very powerful’ wines, ‘where the richness can sometimes be excessive.’ By contrast, ‘these excesses are not found in the 2021 vintage, where the balance is more harmonious and finer,’ he says.

A question of style

Olivier Humbrecht MW of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht finds entry-level wines (not including grands crus or specified lieux-dits) ‘more successful’ in 2021. While agreeing with the solar versus classic description, he stresses that grand cru terroirs for Riesling performed equally well while reflecting stylistic differences. For Pinot Gris and dry Gewurztraminer, he prefers the verve of the 2021 vintage, while favouring 2020 for sweeter, late-harvest Gewurztraminer.

Humbrecht cautions against making too strong a contrast between the two vintages. While 2021 had heavy rains between April and July, a very dry period in August through to the end of the harvest meant that poorly worked plots ‘actually showed signs of water stress,’ he says. And while 2020 was indeed much warmer, he explains that two big rains in August – 80mm at the beginning, 40mm in mid-August – helped retain freshness, so that the grands crus experienced ‘no water stress in 2020.’

Although 2021 was difficult for yields, it proved ‘in fact much simpler’ to vinify than 2020, Humbrecht says. ‘Thanks to spring rains, the grapes and musts were loaded with assimilable nitrogen [important for successful fermentations], which allowed the wines to all ferment very easily until they were dry – some took a while, but went the whole way without problems,’ he explains. ‘As a result, the 2021s are quite reductive, but we have not changed the ageing – still 18 months on total lees because we thought that racking the wines earlier would have been harmful.’

Fermentations in 2020 on the other hand were ‘languorous,’ and ‘not just because potential alcohols were 0.5% higher than 2021,’ explains Humbrecht.

Which grands crus fared the best?

The grands crus with the highest-scoring wines were:

Hengst

Kaefferkopf

Kastelberg

Rangen de Thann

Rosacker

Schlossberg

Sommerberg

Zinnkoepflé

Contrasting styles, excellent quality

Tasting both vintages, I experienced more verve and liveliness from the 2021 vintage on a general level. But many 2020s are excellent, with enough acidity and vivacity to balance warmer, riper fruit.

The blind tasting once again proves that Alsace produces exciting white wines, but often the region does not get the attention it deserves. High-scoring producers from this tasting – such as Domanine Weinbach or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht – sell well internationally, but the tasting has also brought lesser-known producers to the fore. From sensational dry Rieslings to nuanced and spicy Gewurztraminers, by way of bold Pinot Gris and refreshing Muscats, most are also inexpensive.

Alsace’s consumer challenges

Alsace still faces a number of consumer challenges. Does Alsace Pinot Gris resemble Italian Pinot Grigio? How are grape varieties like Gewurztraminer, or grands crus like Schlossberg or Altenberg de Bergbieten, pronounced? Will the wine be sweet because it’s in a long, fluted bottle?

While sales of Alsatian wines are solid – the US and the UK are among the top 10 countries for Alsace wines sold by volume and value, according to recent CIVA statistics – they could improve.

‘Even in 2023, there is a question of which grand cru is easier to pronounce for foreign markets,’ says Foulques Aulagnon, export marketing manager at the CIVA (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins d’Alsace).

As it turns out, Alsace Pinot Gris is ‘absolutely nothing like Italian Pinot Grigio, and buyers still are confounded by the residual sugar levels in Alsatian wine, often too sweet for palates accustomed to dry whites,’ says Washington DC based sommelier Maria Denton.

Despite a recent change in regulations stating that all non-late harvest Alsace Riesling must be dry, as well as an introduction of a dryness scale on the back label, making this information even clearer on the label could help.

Tasting notes and scores for the top 30 Alsace Grand Cru wines from 2020 and 2021:

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In the world of wine grape varieties, not all fruit is created equal – and in fact, the breakdown may actually be a bit more complicated than you think.

In addition to species differentiation (Vitis vinifera vs. Vitis labrusca), grape varieties are genealogically categorised into one of four categories: crosses, clones, mutations and hybrids.

Not sure what we mean? Here’s all you need to know.

The majority of wine grapes cultivated around the world are crosses, meaning that two varieties from the same vine species (Vitis vinifera or Vitis labrusca) ‘crossed’ to create an entirely new variety. This happens when one plant’s flower is fertilised with the pollen of another and can happen naturally or by forced human activity.

A popular example of a cross variety is Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the byproduct of the crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. More recently, crossing via human intervention created Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, in 1925.

Natural variation

Mutations are a bit different. A grape mutation occurs when a variety reacts to changes in its environment, generally to protect itself against frost, rot or other hazards.

Two popular examples of grape mutations are Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, which are mutations of Pinot Noir. In these varieties’ cases, their DNA chains adapted and skipped the sequence that gives the fruit its pigmented skin, resulting in the mutated varieties.

A grape variety is officially defined as a mutation when a handful of its genetic characteristics are no longer identical to the parent vine.

On the other hand, clones are different from mutations, as these differentiations exist among a similar grape variety. For example, the Gin Gin clone and the Dijon clone are both Chardonnay, but have a slightly different makeup. Think of it like parents and offspring – the genetics of the children are the same, as they come from the same parents, though each child possesses unique characteristics.

Rootstocks

Clones are created by grafting existing grape vines onto different rootstock, mostly for the sake of creating higher-quality fruit or to heighten resistance against disease. Genetically, these plants are identical, as they share the same mother vine (unlike mutations, which inevitably have an entirely different genetic makeup than their parent).

Certain clones of the same grape perform better in different parts of the world; for example, the Gin Gin clone is more commonly planted in Australia’s Margaret River, while the Dijon clone is widely cultivated in California and Oregon. Various clones of the same variety will perform differently in separate parts of the world, as well as yield different levels of quality and amounts of fruit.

Disease tolerance

Similar to crosses, hybrid varieties are produced via the same process; however, unlike crosses, hybrids are the result of the crossing of two different species (think one Vitis vinifera variety and one Vitis labrusca variety).

Although frequently looked down upon in the past, hybrids are becoming more and more popular around the globe, as they have a high tolerance to fungal diseases, phylloxera, and powdery mildew.

Popular examples of hybrid varieties include Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Traminette and Cayuga.

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If any wine region could be said to contain multitudes, it’s Alsace. I’ve concentrated on Riesling, the most soulful and pure-spirited of Alsace’s varieties – but never forget that Alsace is deeply sensual, too. Its other great varieties are Pinot Gris, which acquires a depth of personality, a succulent orchard style and a fleshy, textured grandeur here which comprehensively eludes it elsewhere; and the ever-heady Gewurztraminer which, in the right hands, is not only entrancingly perfumed but dense, rich, creamy, stony and spicy – almost a foodstuff in itself.

Maybe you prefer something a little less demonstrative with dinner? In that case, look out for Pinot Blanc (which will contain a big dollop of Alsace’s most secretive variety, Auxerrois) or Sylvaner. Even better, hunt down one of the new generation of ‘Gentil’ blends (cunning compounds of at least 50% of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and/or Muscat, with the balance from Syvlaner, Chasselas and/or Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois, each vinified separately) or ambitious informal field blends. There are increasingly impressive Pinot-based red wines, sparkling crémant and dessert wines galore, too. The dry Muscat wines are a huge contrast to their southern cousins – thanks to their freshening Muscat Ottonel component.

If you crave terroir, finally, Alsace is a wonderland of different soil types and wine expressions. Compare the same varieties grown on granite, on limestone, on sandstone and on volcanic soils with ease, simply by referring to the profiles of the grand cru top-quality sites in books or on the web; the new category (since 2011) of wines that can add a terroir-specific lieu-dit locality to their name is expanding this range further.

Good: Hugel, Classic Riesling 2019 – 91 points

Better: Domaine Weinbach, Cuvée Théo Riesling 2018 – 93 points

Best: Albert Boxler, Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg 2017 – 95 points

Andrew Jefford’s Alsace Riesling picks:

Spend a weekend in Alsace: Travel guide

Time to try Alsace Pinot Noir

It’s easy to overlook the wines of Asti, given the other vinous treasures on offer in the Piedmont region.

In fact, the western border of the Asti DOCG zone extends to Serralunga d’Alba, home to some of Barolo’s most noteworthy wines. Yet Asti is central to the region’s wine industry, representing about 35% of its total production.

According to the Consorzio dell’Asti, 85% of Asti production is exported; key international markets include Germany, Russia and the US.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Asti and Moscato d’Asti wines

The Asti DOC was established in 1967 and was promoted to DOCG status in 1993, although winemaking here predates the modern legislation by centuries.

The DOCG covers 9,700ha of vines in the provinces of Asti, Alessandria and Cuneo, with three defined sub-zones (Santa Vittoria d’Alba, Strevi and Canelli – the latter set to attain its own DOCG as of the 2022 harvest) and four styles of wine.

What are the styles of Asti DOCG?

The two most common styles and the focus of this tasting are Asti and Moscato d’Asti, while the other two styles cover Asti Metodo Classico – of which I’ve included one example – and the rare late-harvest Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva.

All four wine styles must consist of at least 97% Moscato Bianco, with the difference made up by other local aromatic varieties, but in practice most Asti wines are single-varietal.

Asti

What was officially called Asti Spumante until 1993 is now officially just ‘Asti’ – not to be confused with the Asti DOCG in its entirety.

Asti has suffered from a bad rap, at least in the UK, for being low-priced, simple and sweet. This is not entirely fair, however, as in the hands of skilled winemakers these wines effortlessly showcase the incredible fragrance of Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) when combined with Piedmont’s altitudinal freshness.

It was Federico Martinotti, from the province of Asti, who invented the tank method for controlled fermentation in large vats in 1895.

Fifteen years later, Eugène Charmat developed the autoclave design that is still used today. This Martinotti-Charmat method is used for many sparkling wines, including Prosecco, but Asti is unique in that the grape must is fermented only once. It absorbs some of the carbon dioxide during fermentation in pressurised autoclaves, which gives it its sparkle, and the single fermentation retains all the aromatic fruity freshness of the Moscato grape.

When the desired alcohol level is reached, the autoclave is chilled to stop fermentation and the wine is filtered to remove the yeast before bottling.

Production regulations traditionally stipulated that sparkling Asti should have alcohol no higher than 9.5%, but modifications in 2017 and 2020 eliminated this limit, meaning that today Asti can be fermented to dryness, naturally reaching 11%-11.5% alcohol.

Among the 24 sparkling Asti samples I tasted for this feature, there were only a trio of dry (secco) Asti, but I found that this style worked excellently with the delicate floral, fruity character of Moscato.

The additional alcohol and leaner, fresher feel give these secco wines a bit more punch and structure compared to traditional sweet (dolce) wines. The Asti Secco style is well suited to modern consumer tastes, so expect to see more of it on the shelves.

See all 59 Moscato and Moscato d’Asti wines tasted for this feature

Moscato d’Asti

Moscato d’Asti is the sweeter, frizzante alternative to slightly drier and fully sparkling Asti.

The complexity of floral notes – especially in wines from the Canelli sub-zone – and juicy exotic fruits, combined with subtle licks of cream, gentle fizz and rounding sugar, makes Moscato d’Asti a superb sunshine wine – and its low alcohol level is ideal for lazy lunches!

Just be aware that while the alcohol level might encourage you to polish off a bottle by yourself, Moscato d’Asti generally contains more sugar per litre than Coca-Cola at 106g/L!

The top Asti and Moscato d’Asti wines:

See all 59 wines tasted for this feature

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In the northeast corner of France, the Alsace region is something of a hidden treasure for white wine lovers. Whether looking for a refreshing aperitif, a rich and complex sweet wine or something in between, Alsace offers fine and definitive expressions across the board – as evidenced by the many award winners at the Decanter World Wine Awards year after year.

Aromatic grape varieties, namely Alsace’s ‘noble’ Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat, are the region’s specialty. ‘Riesling in Alsace is great – it’s very terroir-driven,’ said Ronan Sayburn MS, Regional Chair for Alsace at DWWA 2020. ‘In Alsace you have a lot of soil types, so the expressions of Riesling in Alsace are fantastic.’

Ahead of judging, Sayburn continued: ‘I’m also looking forward to Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris, even with residual sugar; and with Alsace, I’ll definitely be looking forward to the sweeter, vendange tardive styles.’

From sparkling to sweet, discover here which Alsace wines scored best at the 2020 competition…

The Best in Show

Gustave Lorentz, Vieilles Vignes Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg-de-Bergheim 2016

97 points, Best in Show

US$39.95 Envoyer, Woodland Hills

The golden mean: that’s what Alsace can offer to Riesling enthusiasts. A wine which is not raspingly or cuttingly dry, but not unctuously sweet either; a wine with backbone and structure, yet which can still tease and charm as only Riesling knows how. That’s what you’ll find in this grand cru version from the celebrated Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard: its sunny, south-facing marls have produced a tender, intricate yet roundcontoured version with scents of summer fruits and citrus peels, and limpid, vivacious flavours given gravity by a textured fullness and a little greensap at the finish. It’s a dry wine, but not demandingly so, and would drink well with food or without. Alcohol 13%

Aimé Stentz, Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 2017

97 points, Best in Show

N/A UK www.vins-stentz.fr

Few varieties can run the gamut from dry to sweet as engagingly as Gewurztraminer, with its personality intact from start to finish. That personality, though, is broad enough to contain multitudes when the wine is well made – as here. Look out for a creamy softness in the aromas, as well as pressed rose and whipped cold-cream; there’s just a little lychee, but the ginger spice is very discreet. On the palate, the wine is rich, harmonious and gratifying, its sweetness saturated with aroma and thus lively and fresh. It has both acidity and the distinctive faint bitterness so typical of Gewurztraminer, and these bring more balance and poise to the lush and luxurious palate. Perfect late afternoon sipping. Alc 14.5%

Sparkling

Beblenheim, Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Noirs Brut NV

95 points, Gold

N/A UK www.cave-beblenheim.com

Rich, complex nose of tropical fruit, vanilla custard and sweet spices. Gentle rolling mousse on the palate with rich flavours. Showing depth and longevity. Alc 12.5%

Beblenheim, Black Rose Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé NV

95 points, Gold

€12.90 www.cave-beblenheim.com

Elegant and attractive nose of white peach, apricot and nectarine. Vibrant and fresh acidity cuts through a creamy palate. Freshness right through to the finish. Alc 12.5%

Frey-Sohler, Crémant d’Alsace Riesling Brut NV

93 points, Silver

£16.50 Cavavin

Shows exotic fruit and floral aromas, with notes of blossom, pears and green apple skin. On the palate there is effervescent fizz along with bright acidity and a long finish. Alc 12.5%

Dry

Pfaff, Cuvée Jupiter Riesling 2019

95 points, Gold

£14 Myliko International

Lime zest and orange nose with touches and petrol. Taut acidity cutting through the fleshy palate leading to a long, dry and zesty finish. Alc 12.5%

Gustave Lorentz, Riesling Grand Cru Kanzlerberg 2016

94 points, Silver

N/A UK www.gustavelorentz.com

Precise and crisp nose of mandarin and lemon fruits. Elevated acidity with poise and complexity. Classy through to the finish. Alc 13%

Dopff-au-Moulin, Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2017

93 points, Silver

£30.64 (2016) Wine Poole

Jasmine and white peach aromas with a taut grapefruit backbone. Weighty yet elegant on the palate with fresh acidity. Alc 13.5%

Domaine Fernand Engel, Riesling Grand Cru Praelatenberg 2017

93 points, Silver

£34.55 Tannico

Gun smoke and ripe yellow apple notes on the nose. Rich and full on the palate lifted by a firm acidity and mineral, orange citrus finish. Alc 14%

Lucien Albrecht, Riesling Grand Cru Spiegel 2017

93 points, Silver

N/A UK www.lucien-albrecht.com

Honeyed nose with hints of zesty orange. Ripe passion fruit on the palate with an intense character and spicy finish. Alc 12.9%

Medium

Dopff-au-Moulin, Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Brand 2018

97 points, Platinum

£28.70-£32.61 (2017) 23 Wine & Whiskey, Corking Wines, Exel, Fintry Wines, The Wineman

An exuberant wine with intensely aromatic lychee, pineapple and rose petal. Rich and intense on the palate with energetic acidity and deep complexity. Warming spice on a powerful long finish. Extremely classy wine. Alc 14%

Dopff & Irion, Château de Riquewihr, Les Sorcières Gewurztraminer 2017

96 points, Gold

N/A UK www.dopff-irion.com

Intense and aromatic nose of Seville marmalade, mango, lychee and saffron. Suave palate with exotic fruit, creamy and luscious texture with a powerful, long finish. Alc 13.5%

Lucien Albrecht, Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Spiegel 2017

96 points, Gold

N/A UK www.lucien-albrecht.com

Gloriously aromatic nose of guava, mango and spiced banana. Gentle rose petal with fine aromatics. Complex on the palate with an exceptional, long finish. Alc 13.9%

Vignoble des 2 Lunes, Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 2017

96 points, Gold

N/A UK www.vignobledes2lunes.fr

Ripe and rich orange marmalade and ginger spice on the nose. Intense and complex mouthfeel with a lick of racy acidity. Warm and spicy finish. Alc 15%

Dopff & Irion, Château de Riquewihr, Les Maquisards Pinot Gris 2017

95 points, Gold

N/A UK www.dopff-irion.com

Rich and buttery aromas with honeyed fruit and white pepper spice. Weighty palate with fleshy fruit to match. Long finish with rich, intense character. Alc 13.5%

Kirrenbourg, Roche Granitique Gewurztraminer 2018

94 points, Silver

€18 (2016) www.domainekirrenbourg.fr

Banana and sweet spice with notes of lychee tropical fruits. Full-bodied, deep and complex palate with saffron spice and honey. Alc 15%

Pfaff, Pinot Gris Grand Cru Steinert 2017

94 points, Silver

£22.50 Myliko International

Mango and tropical fruit aromas with touches of spice and citrus peel. Generous and concentrated palate with a long reaching finish. Alc 14%

Sweet

Fernand Engel, Schofweg Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives 2018

97 points, Platinum

€35 www.fernand-engel.fr

Fabulously exotic nose of mango, spiced lychee and ripe orange zest. Rich and intense on the palate with complex and firm flavours. Long finish with plenty of potential to develop. Alc 12%

Jérôme Meyer, Plaisir du Vigneron Gewurztraminer 2018

97 points, Platinum

€17 (2016) www.vins-alsace-meyer.fr

Ripe apricot and gingerbread aromas laced with confit lemon and pear. Pure and lifted acidity on the palate with gorgeous fruit and mouthfeel. Long and floral on the finish: a sensational wine. Alc 12.5%

Pierre Sparr, Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg 2018

95 points, Gold

€14.50 (2017) www.vins-sparr.com

Intense nose of lychee, rosewater, mango and overripe banana with touches of spice. Splendid palate with smooth texture and rich, lovely fruit flavours. Delicious right through to the finish. Alc 13%

Search all DWWA 2020 results

Decanter World Wine Awards home

A vast range of grape varieties and techniques have created an extraordinary array of sparkling styles: from off-dry to sweet Muscat, fruity tank-fermented wines and increasingly trendy pét-nats.

Within this universe of diversity, I searched for the best examples under £30, concluding that the top wines are invariably a reflection of the know-how and grape varieties used in Champagne. However, in every country the influence of terroir and addition of locally grown grape varieties add layers of complexity and excitement.

This tasting highlights the rising quality and great diversity of styles being made all over the world. Wine lovers often default to Champagne – especially when price is not a concern – yet anyone searching for good value or something unexpected would do well to opt for New World fizz, as there is so much to explore and enjoy.

During the last three decades, Australia has elevated itself to another dimension, especially in Tasmania. The island shines not only for its quality but consistency of style. Furthermore, Australia demonstrates the ability to deliver excellent value – witness the producers below.

Despite the limited number of wines tasted from New Zealand and California, it is evident that standards in both countries are high – especially where there is the direct influence of Champagne houses such as Taittinger and Louis Roederer in California, for Domaine Carneros and Quartet respectively. Californian producers such as Gloria Ferrer, Iron Horse and Schramsberg are excelling; and further afield, Oregon and New York state are growing their reputation for sparkling wine.

It’s clear that South Africa is capable of competing against anyone in sparkling wine, and producers using other varieties, including Pinotage and Chenin Blanc, can craft products suitable for every palate and price point.

Brazil is steadily building a reputation as a serious sparkling producer. Styles vary from off-dry and sweet, Moscato-based wines to impressive traditional-method, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based examples. Chile’s sparkling production has been gaining momentum, with important players such as Valdivieso, Undurraga and Torres joined by Viña Carmen, Echeverria, Bouchon, Montes and Loma Larga. Blends are also benefiting from the use of Riesling, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and local País.

Sparkling wine production in Argentina started to be taken seriously as soon as Moët & Chandon inaugurated its first international subsidiary in 1959. Successively, a growing number of producers have entered the frame, offering good quality and diversity using Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Malbec and Bonarda as well as Torrontés for more exuberant styles, alongside the classic Champagne grapes.

There is so much to explore, but since sparkling wines are mostly associated with celebration, the challenge is to find ways to incorporate more into our drinking repertoire and not just wait for a special occasion. If not, the sheer quality, value for money and diversity of styles should be a good enough reason to raise a glass.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW’s top pick of New World sparkling wines

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Classic examples of aromatic white wine grape varieties include:

• Gewürztraminer

• Riesling

• Muscat

• Torrontés

• Viognier

• Sauvignon Blanc

Every wine smells and tastes of something, so why do some – and especially white wines – carry the ‘aromatic’ moniker in tasting circles?

This is about intensity, to some degree. How pungent are those primary flavours on the nose, whether you’re smelling citrus, rose petal or herbaceous notes?

Aromatic white wines are produced from varieties that tend to give off higher amounts of these natural aromas.

But there is no legal definition and some scientific analysis suggests more of a sliding scale rather than two distinct ‘aromatic’ and ‘non-aromatic’ camps.

Science of aromatic wines

Some scientific studies have shown that several aromatic wine grape varieties have higher levels of organic compounds called terpenes.

For example, monoterpenes are known to contribute to fruity and floral aromas and were found to be particularly prominent in Torrontes and Muscat in a study published in the peer-reviewed Foods journal in 2018.

‘The total concentration of monoterpenes in Muscat and Torrontes wines were about four times greater than in Gewürztraminer wines, six times greater than in Riesling and Viognier wines, and over 30 times greater than in Chardonnay and Pinot Gris wines,’ said the researchers.

However, this remains an emerging area of science.

Winemaking choices

The sheer abundance of choices faced by winemakers, plus the influence of climate, means that there is plenty of scope for stylistic nuance.

Generally speaking, producers will likely make greater effort to emphasise primary fruit flavours of aromatic white wines during the winemaking process.

Classically, they might ferment at cooler temperatures, actively prevent malolactic fermentation or use stainless steel to preserve the aromas.

A broad shift in winemaking philosophy towards minimal intervention in the cellar, to more precisely express purity of fruit and a sense of place, means that there is perhaps no longer such a stark contrast between treatment of aromatic and so-called non-aromatic varieties, however.

Plus, there are always exceptions to such general rules.

Sauvignon Blanc is broadly regarded as an aromatic white wine, but its signature flavours, including citrus, grassy and gooseberry notes, can be overlaid with barrel fermentation, malolactic and oak ageing in Bordeaux and parts of California.

Some aromatic wines can also come in varying degrees of sweetness, with Riesling one of the best examples.

See also: Why is Touriga Nacional a rising star? 

Link: Find more WSET stories

- This article is written by a journalist on a journey of discovery - and on a mission to learn about wine.

By Yiyao Wu from Shanghai – the Chinese perspective

• Use the where to study map on the WSET website to see which courses are available near you.

Fortified wines and sweet wines are made with various methods and grape varieties, which are often indicated on wine labels. Last week when we tasted Hungarian Tokaji Aszu, a noble rot wine, the teacher reminded us to notice the “5 puttonyos”, the unit given to denote the level of sugar and sweetness in Hungarian sweet wine ranging from 3 puttonyos to 6 puttonyos. Symbols like this showing the sweetness and quality of sweet and fortified wines are usually explicitly stated on wine labels so consumers can know how sweet a wine is at a glance.

Sweet wines, grape varieties and labelling

Fortified sweet wines often use Muscat grapes, such as Muscat de Beaumes de Venise and Muscat de Rivesaltes, which have very pronounced fruity, perfume aromas.

Riesling, Semillon and Chenin Blanc are easily attacked by noble rot thus they are often used to make noble rot wines. Noble rot wine’s labels may state botrytis cinerea, or just botrytis. But sometimes wine labels do not state grape variety or botrytis; they just say Sauternes AC (famous for Semillon noble rot), or Vouvray AC (famous for Chenin Blanc noble rot), and Alsace AC (famous for Riesling noble rot).

Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese are two terms often seen on quality Riesling noble rot from Germany and Austria. Lables reading Eiswein means this is icewine from Germany or Austria, while in Canada, icewine’s label often has a term VQA, showing that the wine is from a legally protected appellation under the Vintners Quality Alliance system.

Sherry

Labels of Dherry wines usually state the wine’s style, such as Amontillado, Oloroso, or PX. Amontillado is dry (or Seco on the label), made from Palomino grape. The amber-colored fortified wine has a nut-like taste. Sweetened Amontillado is labelled as “Medium”.

Oloroso is also dry and made from the Palomino grape but it is different from Amontillado as it is attacked by oxygen throughout ageing. The deep-brown coloured wine has pronounced aromas of roasted nuts and a nutty flavour. Sweetened Oloroso is labelled as “Cream”.

• READ: Sherry wine and chocolate pairings

Sherry wines with labels saying Pedro Ximenez means they are made from the dried grape Pedro Ximenez (or PX for short). This wine, with syrupy sweetness, is semi-fluid and many of my classmates say it looks, smells and tastes like loquat syrup, a kind of traditional herbal medicine in China used to treat coughing. I think PX tastes much better than the loquat syrup, and PX is more versatile. In a bar in Shanghai I saw more than 10 varieties of cocktail using PX in the blend.

Port

Port wines are becoming increasingly popular in China specifically among consumers who would like to try wines but demand high alcohol at the same time. Major grape varieties for Port wines include Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cao, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa and Tinta Roriz. The best Port is usually made from Touriga Nacional which has deep color and high tannin.

Labels reading Ruby Port mean they are an inexpensive, non-vintage wine that undergoes less than three years ageing before bottling. Such wines are sweet, simple, and fruity: a table wine that can go with easy dining. Labels reading Reserve Ruby Port means they undergo up to five years ageing before bottling, and taste more complex than Ruby Port with more intense fruity flavours and aromas.

Late Bottle vintage, or LBV for short, means the wine uses grapes from a single vintage and it is usually sweet. Unfiltered sometimes appears on label meaning that the wine is not filtered before bottling and is better served after being decanted to remove the sediment.

Vintage Ports use grapes that come from the only the very best vineyards and are only made in good years. Vintage is usually stated on the label.

• READ: Find out more about Port

Tawny Ports are a kind of inexpensive, simple, light-coloured ports that have toffee and caramel flavours. If the label reads Reserve Tawny Port, it means the wine is aged for at least six years in small oak vessels and has more complicated flavours of nuts and a trace of chocolate.

My classmates and I shared a bottle of Taylor’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port, a tawny port with indication of age, which could be labelled as 10 Year, 20 Year, 30 Year and 40 Year. Such wines are best consumed close to bottling date, which is usually found on the label. I was wondering what I was doing when the wine started ageing 20 years ago and what I was drinking at that time. Gatorade perhaps, after a soccer session in primary school.

Interested in studying for a WSET qualification like Yiyao? Learn more here.

Yiyao Wu Biography – WSET, China Based Journalist

Sweet wines – Methods of production – WSET Level 2

Credit: Decanter

France, Germany and Italy – Sweet Wines – WSET Level 2

Port and Vins doux Naturels – Sweet Wines Method of Production – WSET Level 2

Argentina, Chile, South Africa and Australia – Wine Label terms showing quality – WSET Level 2

France – Common Wine Labelling Terms – WSET Level 2

Link: Find more WSET stories

- This article is written by a journalist on a journey of discovery - and on a mission to learn about wine.

By John Elmes

I touched on sweet wines in my last WSET Level 2 article when writing about the production of Vins doux Naturels, specifically Muscat de Beaumes de Venise from France.

• Use the where to study map on the WSET website to see which courses are available near you.

Southern France in particular is home to two important examples in the sweet wines catalogue. I have already mentioned Muscat de Beaumes de Venise and the other is Muscat de Rivesaltes. The Muscat grape is well suited for sweet wine, giving fragrant, floral and fresh fruit flavours – try saying that five times in a row. Peach, grape and rose are typical aromas and tastes. As Muscat wines generally forego oak ageing, the fresh fruit is instantly recognisable. Jim, our tutor, says you do get plenty of ‘Muscat aromas’ on the nose and ‘peach and apricot’ on the palate in Beaumes de Venise. He likened it to children’s favourite yoghurt: Petit Filous. Just with alcohol. A tasting note that could catch on amongst the wine cognoscenti.

Further north-west in Bordeaux, which needs no introduction, we have the Graves sub-region. Here lies the Sauternes appellation, a world-renowned sweet wine. Sémillon is the principle player, though it’s often blended with Sauvignon Blanc – something you may recall from my Sauvignon Blanc article. This is important because you should not believe Bordeaux produces only dry or sweet wines with Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc blends. It has both.

The difference in this case is that the thin-skinned Sémillon is prone to noble rot – a natural process whereby botrytis cinerea fungus grows ‘on the outside of the grape, punctures the grape itself and the water is allowed to evaporate’. Sauternes wines therefore bear ‘botrytis’ flavours, which are varied and hard to characterise, but include honey and ryebread. Strange attributes, I know. Jim also points out that where Sauternes differ from other noble rot wines, is the ‘vanilla, toast, spicy’ flavours gained from oak ageing.

• Sauternes and Barsac 2011 & 2013: Top wines

Chenin Blanc, a grape common in the Loire, is also partial to noble rot. The Vouvray AOC and Coteaux de Layon AOC are the notable wines from this grape. Alsace, due east and slightly north from the Loire, also makes botrytis-affected sweet wines using Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer or Riesling grapes.

With near seamless transitioning we move from France to Germany via their mutual relationship with noble rot-friendly Riesling. Mosel, Rheingau and Pfalz, the major regions for Riesling, also produce dry wines from this varietal. I’m focusing on the wines from the Beerenauslese (BA), Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) and Eiswein Prädikat sweetness levels. To make either BA or TBA wines, the potential sweetness levels have to be extremely high and is measured in their must weight. This can only be achieved with an element of noble rot.

‘Most of the time Riesling is unoaked so tastes of marmalade, toast, honey – coming from the noble rot – and the Riesling grape,’ says Jim. BA and TBA production are just a couple of examples of Jim’s ‘favourite way to make a sweet wine’ – by concentrating the sugars in the grapes. Trockenbeerenauslese is wine produced from grapes that are ‘left to dry on the vine’.

Eiswein, which is incredibly expensive to produce, involves harvesting frozen grapes in winter and removing the iced water from them. Jim says the labour costs are high because your winery also has to have freezing equipment, so it doesn’t warm the grapes up before the ice crystals are removed.

Before I leave this topic, there is just one example from Italy we were told about: Recioto. It was mentioned almost an afterthought, and I had to look up where it came from (Veneto, I believe and is most commonly seen in Valpolicella and Soave). Recioto has come from grapes which have been laid out to dry in the sun like ‘sun-dried tomatoes’. ‘You’ve just concentrated all of the sugar, all of the acidity, all of that flavour. So if you see Recioto, it’s a really sweet style,’ said Jim.

Tell me 12 weeks ago there exists a sweet, red dessert wine, and I’d have laughed at you. Now I raise a glass Recioto Valpolicella to the WSET; and it goes surprisingly well with dark chocolate.

Interested in studying for a WSET qualification like John? Learn more here.

John Elmes Biography – WSET, UK Based Journalist

Port and Vins doux Naturels – Sweet Wines Method of Production – WSET Level 2

Sparkling Wines – Most Important Countries and Labelling – WSET Level 2

Credit: Baron de Ley

Spain, Portugal, USA – Common Labelling Terms that show Quality – WSET Level 2

France – Common Wine Labelling Terms – WSET Level 2

Sauvignon Blanc Grape – Climatic, Winery Influence, Most important regions – WSET Level 2

Decanter recently tasted a selection of Morris wines when director Nick Blair visited our offices in London. The tasting included a vertical of Morris Rutherglen Durif: 1988, 1992, 1998, 2001, 2002, 2007 and 2009, plus four Liqueur Muscats and three Tokays. Watch our video interview with Nick Blair and read Margaret Rand's report and tasting notes on the wines.

You’d expect some pretty remarkable wines to come out of a town like Rutherglen, writes Margaret Rand. It looks too good to be true: a living, breathing relic of Ye Olde Australia, all verandahs and tin roofs.

And, in the case of Morris Wines, dirt floors. Charles Hughes Morris, son of the George Francis Morris who arrived in Rutherglen lured by the gold rush and who decided that selling supplies to the prospectors was a better prospect than prospecting, built the winery with the money he got from selling a favourite horse. You don’t build a flashy winery with the price of a horse. And besides, a dirt floor seems to regulate humidity in the winery rather nicely.

George Francis had founded Morris Wines in 1859 and to begin with made fortifieds; it still does make fortifieds, and director Nick Blair visited Decanter’s tasting room with some Liqueur Muscats and Tokays (Morris will start using Tokay’s new official name, Topaque, next year). He also brought some Durif table wines, which are every bit as individual as the fortifieds. Durif is a grape that was propagated in the 1880s and planted in the south of France because of its resistance to downy mildew, but it was never, to be honest, regarded as anything more than a source of rustic red for the working population. France hardly grows it now. California does, under the name of Petite Sirah; and so does Morris Wines of Rutherglen. These bottles, going back to 1988, demonstrated that while Durif is not complex, it can nevertheless improve with age. Rustic? Yes, but well brought-up. It’s hairy, but it went to school. It’s those contradictions that make it interesting.

See Margaret Rand’s tasting notes and scores of the Durif wines and Fortifieds below:

Mick Morris Durif 1988

The colour is still dark and vibrant; the palate is remarkably silky and sleek, with flavours of beef jus, leather, roasted fruit. It’s a bit like Amarone without the baked cherries: it has that rich silkiness. High acidity, very harmonious, still young and fresh. 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Drink: Now-2025

Alc: 15.1%

Rutherglen Durif 1992

Lovely texture again, roasted fruit, intense and energetic, and very well balanced. High acidity and great concentration, and a very long finish. 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Drink: Now-2030

Alc: 13.5%

Rutherglen Durif 1998

Nose of coal smoke, tar and black fruit. Lots of acidity on the palate. It’s feral and, okay, a bit bretty, but delicious with it, wild and silky. Tannins still have a bit of grip. Very long. 18pts/20 (93/100pts)

Drink: Now-2035

Alc: 14%

Rutherglen Durif 2001

Roasted sweet fruit, and aromatic with cherries and savoury notes; tar and smoke, with very good acidity. The finish is very slightly hot. 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Now-2035

Alc: 14%

Rutherglen Durif 2002

Bright and intense; a bit broader in feel, still that silkiness, and with a note of greenness to add to the freshness. 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Drink: Now-2035

Alc: 14%

Rutherglen Durif 2007

A big change in colour: this is deep ruby-black. Palate is intense and balanced, with high acidity, vibrant with plums, damsons, blackberries. An extraordinary contradiction between the polished, sleek exterior and the intrinsic lack of finesse of the grape. Usually that wouldn’t work, but here it does. 18pts/20 (93/100pts)

Drink: Now-2040

Alc: 14.5%

Rutherglen Durif 2009

A touch of honey and lime blossom on the nose, and deep curranty fruit on the palate. Roasted, with some coconut oak showing: this is a more showy, international style than the others. Very good finish. 17pts/20 (90/100pts)

Drink: Now-2040

Alc: 15.1%

CHM 2007

CHM is, of course, Charles Henry Morris; this wine is from a single block, with the best bunches selected. Very deep and rich and roasted, with a lovely expressive finish; a tense, taut yet muscular wine. Very individual. 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts)

Drink: Now-2050

Alc: 15%

Fortifieds

Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat

Tea and roses on the nose, intense roses and balsamic notes. Rich but fresh, syrupy texture but good acidity, all fudge and balsamic flavours, with tea emerging again on the very long finish. 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Drink: Now-2050

Alc: 17.5%

Classic Liqueur Muscat

Coffee, chocolate and rosemary aromas; fudge again on the palate, with coffee liqueur and floral, herbal notes. Very long. 18pts/20 (93/100pts)

Drink: Now-2050

Alc: 18%

Cellar Reserve Grand Liqueur Muscat

Black, espresso flavours, fresh acidity, bitter black chocolate with the fruitiness of good black chocolate. Concentrated balsamic notes. 19/20pts (96/100pts)

Drink: Now-2060

Alc: 17%

Old Premium Rare Liqueur Muscat

Dark brown colour with daffodil-yellow rim. Very thick in the mouth, black flavours, beyond fruit or chocolate flavours, though some very intense mocha and espresso. Far more difficult to describe than the others because it’s so tight and tightly woven, so harmonious. Garrigue herbs, even a touch of peach, too. Powerful, sweet, almost medicinal. Probably less approachable than the previous wine, but incredible. 19.5/20pts (99/100pts)

Drink: Now-eternity

Alc: 17%

Classic Liqueur Tokay

Roasted apricot and thyme nose; burnt brown sugar too. Toffee and caramel on the palate, burnt butter, very concentrated, lovely sleek salted caramel, herbal and very long. 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)

Drink: Now-2050

Alc: 17.5%

Cellar Reserve Grand Liqueur Tokay

Apricots and salted caramels again, toast and butter; very buttery. Wild herbs, very concentrated and silky, with a touch of lime cordial on the finish. 18pts/20 (93/100pts)

Drink: Now- 2050

Alc: 17%

Rare Liqueur Tokay

Dark brown colour with burnt yellow rim. Chocolate raisins and good acidity: piercing acidity under a thick blanket of richness. A feeling of pointed acidity and intense sweetness, layer on layer. Explosive finish. 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts)

Drink: Now-eternity

Alc: 18%

Written by Decanter