Known collectively as Alto Piemonte, there are seven small areas in the foothills of the Italian Alps producing wines which are little known outside of the local area – Piedmont's ‘other’ Nebbiolo.

Once upon a time, Alto Piemonte was destination #1 for Nebbiolo, but the majority of the vines were grubbed up as its popularity waned in favour of Barolo and Barbaresco.

Comprising seven localities – Boca, Bramaterra, Faro, Gattinara, Ghemme, Lessona and Sizzano – today's Alto Piemonte wines are made on a scale that makes even the smallest wineries in the Langhe seem Bordeaux-like in comparison.

‘In Alto Piemonte, we lost a lot of vineyards in the last 50 years,’ says Mattia Antoniotti of the Antoniotti Odilio winery in Bramaterra.

How Alto Piemonte differs to the Langhe

Located on the northern border of the Piedmont region, the Nebbiolos of Alto Piemonte produce a significantly different style to the big hitters further south, tending towards redder fruits and less tannic structure, making for approachable – if occasionally ‘rustic’ – reds.

Conditions have warmed sufficiently in recent years, bringing the Nebbiolos from the marginal Alto Piemonte climate into the conversation alongside the best the region has to offer. As if to hammer home the point, two of the Langhe's top wineries have expanded into the area: Conterno (with Nervi Conterno), and Paitin (with Bianchi).

Below you'll find five recommendations, selected for value and drinkability.

Alto Piemonte: Five to try

There is no doubt that Nebbiolo is responsible for some of Italy’s most extraordinary, complex and age-worthy wines.

In fact, Barolo and Barbaresco sit alongside the greats of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Yet unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo has only recently started emerging from the shadow of its loftiest denominations.

In true Nebbiolo form, it is doing so with grace and agility. This is a testament to producers who are emphasising its more lighthearted guises without denaturing its identity.

They align brilliantly with a growing demand for fresh, buoyant, immediately approachable reds.

Fresh batch

While not limited to Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba, these DOCs offer a wealth of examples.

The freshest batch hails from 2023 and 2024, two challenging years. The former was marked by hail, heat and drought, the latter by incessant rainfall – though not cool temperature.

Quite surprisingly, they yielded a spate of charming, lithesome wines – particularly 2024.

The brightest even convey a joyfulness that contradicts what winegrowers must have felt when dealing with the vengeances of Mother Nature.

Alas, in others, the struggles of the vintages are all too apparent.

Both years required a lot of work in the vineyard and a strict selection. As such, it is difficult to find true quality at the lowest prices.

Grower-led value

Nonetheless, trusted producers like Produttori del Barbaresco, Massolino and GD Vajra still offer affordable worthwhile specimens.

What stands out is the intentionality behind the wines. At the Marrone estate, Langhe Nebbiolo is not simply a declassified Barolo.

Instead, winemaker Valentina Marrone set out specifically to produce one that represents her generation. The unoaked, ‘Che Vale’ bottling is chillable and ready to drink.

‘Making a Nebbiolo that isn’t aged in wood requires managing the vineyard differently,’ says Valentina. She also plays around with vinification to tease out the variety's perfume and flavour, as well as finer tannins.

Room for experimentation

That sense of experimentation pervades these non-DOCG Nebbiolo. They also provide rich hunting ground for the region’s up-and-comers.

Check out San Barnaba, Borgogno e Carbone and Vaira Aurelj. While the latter’s fuori zona (FZ) label is neither a Langhe Nebbiolo nor a Nebbiolo d’Alba, it is a 100% Nebbiolo simply designated as Vino Rosso.

The 2023 is the best wine I have had from this promising new estate.

‘We were brought up in Barolo and respect the area but as this comes from outside the zone, we wanted to do something different,’ explains Francesco Vaira, who uses a combination of whole clusters, whole berries and low sulphur to really bring out a perfumed fruit expression.

None of these should take away from the region’s more traditional, even historic labels.

Both Bruno Giacosa and Sandrone’s bottlings from Roero’s renowned Valmaggiore vineyard rise above the challenges of the 2023 vintage.

Similarly, Cavallotto and Giovanni Rosso’s Ester Canale are compelling representations of young vines in Barolo’s best sites.

Nebbiolo is finally having a moment – one that will hopefully have the longevity of its greatest examples.

Juicy and light-hearted Nebbiolo

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If 2022 was a paradox, Barbaresco’s 2023 vintage was a rollercoaster. The unexpected twists and switches left winegrowers as exhausted as perplexed. ‘Every month brought a different challenge’, recalls Roberta Ceretto.

The drought of 2022 carried over into 2023, and by March, the Tanaro River had almost dried out (see lead image). When the rain finally returned at the end of April, it didn’t let up until mid-June.

In another hairpin turn, summer arrived suddenly with soaring temperatures and barely another drop of rain until the end of August. And rather than droplets, the intense water bomb didn’t let up for two days. Temperatures somewhat abated afterward but remained above average throughout September.

While the wet spring meant peronospora (downy mildew) was a constant threat, wineries were quite happy to see water reserves replenished.

‘All the nutrition in the soil that the plant couldn't absorb in 2022 and 2021, it sucked up with the rain in 2023,’ explains Gaia Gaja.

Much more worrisome was the heatwave, bringing unprecedented temperature spikes in the second half of August. ‘It reached 42℃,” asserts Pierguido Busso, who noted issues not just with dehydration but also sunburn.

At Gaja, girapoggio – or horizontally planted rows – suffered the most damage. ‘Bunches on the west side had to be dropped,’ Gaia states. She admits that she didn’t like the wines immediately after fermentation. ‘I was concerned about unripe, green notes but they improved in the barrel’.

Besides using protective measures such as kaolin on the bunches and hail nets for shade, the estate recently started planting native trees in key vineyards like Sorì San Lorenzo. ‘Maybe in 10 years they will provide enough shade and we won’t need nets’, Gaia posits.

Unsurprisingly, the vines shut down in the summer of 2023, and unlike 2022, harvest ended up being quite late.

Deciding when to pick proved difficult. ‘The grapes went from green to overripe quickly’, says David Fletcher, adding that southern exposures struggled the most. At Poderi Colla, Federica Colla describes the difficult harvest: ‘We had to make three passages in the same vineyard as bunches ripened at different times’.

End of an era

Choosing a favourite at Produttori del Barbaresco is like splitting hairs. All nine bottlings are cellarworthy, with clearly defined personalities.

Perhaps the most surprising this year was the Montefico, which showed more vigour than usual without sacrificing its signature mineral nuance.

My tasting at this historic cooperative was bittersweet, as it was the last with Aldo Vacca: after more than 30 years as managing director, he is retiring.

Besides being a steadfast leader at the winery, he was a tireless ambassador for Barbaresco, and I am personally indebted to him for much of what I have learned about the region.

Vacca leaves big shoes to fill, but his long-time right-hand, Luca Cravanzola has stepped confidently into the position – yet another changing of the guard that is shaping Barbaresco’s bright future.

The vintage comparison

After skipping 2022 altogether, Sottimano returns with a complete lineup of single-MGA bottlings. ‘2023 is 10 steps beyond 2022,’ declares Andrea Sottimano.

Conversely, Lena Oddero at Luigi Oddero favours 2022, referring to the 2023 Barbaresco as ‘Nebbiolino’ – little Nebbiolo.

‘The wines are ripe but not structured’, adds the estate’s winemaker, Francesco Versio. He describes 2023 as fresher and more vertical than 2022, because lower potassium levels resulted in more stable acidities.

Indeed, the 2023s tend to be markedly pale in colour, midweight and delicate in structure. Yet they are charming and balanced in their proportions, with ripe but not rich or confected flavours.

Some veer towards Langhe Nebbiolo in style, but with a bit more heft. My preference is for those wines not weighed down by overt wood, and I am pleased to see fewer faulty wines than in 2022.

Barbaresco: Top value picks

Bosio, Boschi dei Signori, Barbaresco 2023

When you have a midweek craving for Barbaresco, Boschi dei Signori offers an accessibly priced example.

Cà del Baio, Barbaresco Asili 2023

From one of Barbaresco’s most prestigious MGAs, Cà del Baio’s represents an excellent price-quality rapport.

Marchesi di Barolo, Barbaresco Serragrilli 2023

This pulls off both ripeness and restraint in one elegant, ready to drink package.

Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco 2022

One of the best deals in Barbaresco year after year, with the 2022 no exception.

Massimo Rivetti, Barbaresco 2022

Not just well priced, this Barbaresco is packed with flavour – and certified organic to boot.

Barbaresco 2023: A commune by commune analysis

My wine of the vintage

Which Barbaresco to drink when?

Barbaresco releases: Tasted & rated

92 points and under

Barbaresco Riserva 2021

This year also marks the release of the 2021 vintage of Barbaresco Riserva, and the 30 or so wines I tasted underscore the great success of this highly touted vintage.

Along with Marchesi di Grésy’s delicious duo from Martinenga, Rizzi’s elegantly restrained Vigna Boito and Vietti’s perfumed Rabajà came out on top in blind tastings. These can all be tucked away and enjoyed leisurely over the next 15-plus years.

Other special mentions go to Montaribaldi, whose first-ever Marcarini bottling marks the estate’s foray into the Riserva category. Similarly, the up-and-coming Piercarlo Culasso estate has upgraded its single-parcel Faset label as of the 2021 vintage.

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Barolo’s latest Riserva releases hail from the warm and docile 2020 vintage.

Like their annata counterparts, the wines exude a supple graciousness: even when they are backed with greater structure, the tannins generally remain sumptuous and velvety.

Overall, I found immediate harmony and instant enjoyment. Most should show their best over the next 10 to 15 years, doling out their generous pleasures steadily throughout this window. The choice is personal, of course, whether you prefer youthful charm or tertiary intricacies.

Most gratifying of all is the sense of intention behind these wines in 2020. While the Riserva category has become somewhat diluted throughout Italy, Barolo still manages to convey its original intent.

And even in this more approachable vintage, top bottlings like Bruno Giacosa’s Vigna Le Rocche Falletto, Massolino’s Vignarionda, and Palladino’s San Berardino encapsulate longevity and completeness.

With a trio of new Riserva, the historic Borgogno estate embraces the prevailing approach, which highlights single MGAs. Specifically, they are made from old-vine plots in Annunziata, Cannubi and Liste. The latter gets my top vote in 2020.

Standing the test of time

Beyond the 2020s, there are several late-release Riservas worth seeking out.

Always a year behind, Cavallotto proposes an excellent ageworthy duo from 2019 with the Vignolo and Vigna San Giuseppe bottlings.

From the same vintage, Pecchenino comes out with its first Riserva since 2011.

‘Riserva is not a shortcut to raise prices,’ declares Giacomo Conterno at Aldo Conterno. ‘Instead, it must be a flagship that evokes place – a message in a bottle.’

Some wineries, including Aldo Conterno, Parusso and Vite Colte, choose to wait a full 10 years from harvest before releasing their Riserva, and these latest offerings revisit the exceptional 2016 vintage.

Aldo Conterno’s 2016 Gran Bussia is not an inexpensive missive to say the least, but it is certainly a Riserva that will stand the test of time.

Which Riserva to drink when?

Barolo Riserva 2020: Tasted & rated

In vintage order, highest score first

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Barolo’s best value in 2022 is found among its blends.

Whether a region-wide or a village blend (as opposed to the single-MGA and even single-vineyard bottlings), these so-called ‘classic’ Barolos represent a sweet spot for the vintage.

The majority of wines in 2022 are round in shape with harmonising acidity and well managed tannins, and less complexity than in the best years.

This more approachable style works to the advantage of those after well priced Barolo, with a number of well performing wines to highlight below.

Barolo 2022's top value picks

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When I visited Barolo in early May of 2022, scrawny plants on dusty, arid soil were barely noticeable amid the equally scraggly cover crop.

By the end of the season, many vines hadn’t even reached the top of the trellis, which is almost inconceivable for the notoriously vigorous Nebbiolo.

Drought reached hyperbolic levels and the summer heat was relentless. For a region that is well versed in dealing with rain, the severe lack of it was disconcerting.

‘It forced me to rethink my farming,’ recalls Gianluca Colombo, who abandoned the region’s traditional viticultural practices and adopted the farming approaches of more southern, Mediterranean climes.

‘2022 was an exception in the worst possible way,’ says Carlotta Rinaldi. Yet the vines’ resilience was astounding: ‘From the beginning, they tried to preserve energy and limit production’, she continues.

Tools in the armoury

Drawing on lessons learned in vintages such as 2003, 2007 and 2017, green harvesting was minimal at most. Likewise, many estates avoided de-leafing and hedging, and allowed lateral shoots to grow for additional shade.

‘We left the vines in peace’, concludes Chiara Boschis.

Beyond managing the canopy to shade the grapes, producers such as Poderi e Cantine Oddero and Brovia applied kaolin (a powdery white clay) to act as a natural sunscreen for the bunches.

Anti-hail nets were also credited with curbing sunburn, providing much-needed shade. Paolo Scavino launched the first trials with automated nets developed specifically for sun protection.

Among the few estates with access to water, the family also experimented with irrigation since special permission had been granted for emergency use; a hot and divisive topic to say the least.

And in many cases, inter-row cover crops were left in situ, helping to prevent the soils from losing precious moisture, and to keep the ground as cool as possible.

Yet, inevitably, vines shut down due to heat stress in 2022, particularly those on sandier soils. ‘The heat and drought actually slowed down phenolic ripening, but not sugar levels,’ notes Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo.

Nevertheless, harvest was still early across the board – while some picked long before the rain which arrived at the end of September, others, including Alan Maley at Margherita Otto waited.

‘Those days of rain made all the difference. It was like putting gas in the car.’ Maley also noted a reduction in potential alcohol from 15.2% before to 14.2% after.

Throwing out the rule book

Yields were down anywhere from 20% to 45% but grapes were healthy. Despite small, concentrated berries with thick skins, tannin ripeness was a niggling concern.

The challenge, therefore, was to fine-tune the concentration and avoid over- or under-extraction.

‘It made it difficult to colour inside the lines’, describes Giacomo Conterno.

So again, wineries threw out the rules they were weaned on. Lower fermentation temperatures, gentler pump overs, shorter time on the skins, and avoiding submerged cap macerations were some of the ways winemakers sought to achieve balance.

Several reduced the time in wood, too, in order ‘to preserve freshness’, as Colombo puts it.

As extreme as the 2022 vintage in Barolo was, this does not translate into the wines and I am pleasantly surprised by their fragrance and fruit expression.

Heterogenous in quality, some veer towards confection, though are rarely stewed. Those that fall short are washed out and lacking through the mid-palate.

Conversely, the best wines defy the vintage without disassociating from it, offering depth and definition.

The majority of wines are round in body with harmonising rather than bracing acidity. The tannins are well managed, if less complex and intricate than in great years. And when a bit of dryness does poke through, I appreciate the reminder that I am drinking Nebbiolo!

‘We worried they would be heavy and cloying, but they have much more spunk than we expected,’ remarks Alessandro Olocco at Palladino.

Many found it impossible to single out a comparable vintage, though 2020 was repeatedly cited in terms of the wines’ generous and open nature. ‘There is richness, power and warmth – but not like 2003, which is already dead,’ notes Silvia Altare.

Martina Fiorino at Bruna Grimaldi describes the tannins in 2022 as ‘more resolved and integrated’, compared to 2017.

To blend or not to blend

While 2022 isn’t a vintage to seek out definitive site-specific examples, it does present a compelling case for the time-honoured tradition of blending. But the underlying rationale is different from the cooler climate of yesteryear.

‘In hot years, the vineyards start to resemble one another’, asserts Fabio Alessandria at GB Burlotto. As such, he opted to forego his single-MGA bottlings to produce just one Barolo that incorporates all.

‘Splitting it into three labels would have left too little wine,’ adds Cordero di Montezemolo, explaining that they excluded lots that didn’t meet their usual high standards.

‘Not every vintage is suited for expressing the individual MGAs,’ he continues, ‘but that does not mean the vintage is bad or of lower quality.’

In general, the ‘classic’ Barolos represent a sweet spot for the vintage. Bartolo Mascarello’s remains the standard-bearer but I was also duly impressed with Chiara Boschis’ Via Nuova, Margherita Otto, Pio Cesare and Vietti among others.

There are many successes among the MGA bottlings too. Both Lorenzo Scavino at Azelia and Milena Viara at GD Vajra attribute the quality of theirs in 2022 to the old vines: ‘Even in a difficult vintage, they still speak of where they are from,’ Vaira argues.

My wine of the vintage

2022 vintage conclusions

In 2022 there are plenty of very good wines, but few truly outstanding and distinctive ones. The best convey a visceral connection to the against-all odds vintage.

Most are ready or nearly ready to drink, with an ageing potential between 10 to 12 years. Some will be even longer lived, but only a very few bottles will require extended cellaring.

At the risk of distracting from 2022, my recommendations also include several late-release 2021s.

Missing out on these would be a shame. Topping my list is Guido Porro’s Vignarionda MGA, with the estate’s Vigna Lazzairasco making for a shrewd sidestep.

Also pulling a solid one-two punch is Aurelio Settimo with the striking Rocche dell'Annunziata MGA and excellent value classic Barolo.

Beyond these, Marcarini’s Brunate is a testament to this prestigious MGA, and Le Strette’s Bergera-Pezzole MGA gives insight into Novello beyond Ravera.

I just hope your appetite – or rather thirst – for Barolo in all its variations is as big as mine!

Barolo 2022: A commune by commune analysis

Barolo 2022: Tasted & rated

Score table: 94 points and under

Barolo 2021 late releases

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There is a group of DOC/Gs in the far northeast corner of Piedmont producing Nebbiolo wines against the dramatic backdrop of the Alps.

Gattinara and Ghemme (both DOCGs) are the best known, while Bramaterra along with the microscopic Lessona, Sizzano, Boca and Fara are the others.

Nebbiolo has been grown here for centuries, but in the sub-alpine climate with extreme temperature variations which slow down the vegetative cycle, the variety often struggled to get to full ripeness.

The wines were typically lean, with nervy acidity and bone-dry tannins; intense but rigid.

With time, they acquired complex tertiary aromas – it’s no coincidence that the production regulations impose extended wood and bottle ageing – but they were wines of another era.

The wines of today, meanwhile, present a very different profile. They drink earlier than in the past, with immediate fruit, ripe tannins, and the full spectrum of the wonderful floral-herb-spice aromas of Nebbiolo.

Despite the extra ripeness, they maintain the tangy mineral quality, the acidity, and the moderate alcohol which are all key notes of the terroir.

In an age when 15% abv Barolo is becoming commonplace, these northern Nebbiolos typically reach 13-13.5%, and even in the hottest vintages will rarely go over 14% alcohol

What makes the difference is the climate. The combination of drier summers with increased solar radiation, higher average temperatures, and more frequent temperature peaks creates the risk of accelerated but uneven ripening and wines with lower acidity, unwieldy high alcohol and baked fruit aromas.

But it is not all negative. While some traditional growing areas are feeling the heat, others are enjoying the benefits of a changing climate

Federico Rinolfi, winemaker at the La Piemontina estate in Ghemme explains: ‘Climate zones in Piemonte are shifting north. We now have the meso-climate of the Langhe of the past.’

The result is a shorter vegetative cycle but better, earlier ripening.

‘Nebbiolo used to need more time to ripen’, says Rinolfi. ‘Historically, the harvest went on until late October, now we finish in September.’

It's all in the soil

Local climate variations are minimal, but soil differences are significant – they are one of the historical reasons for the division of an area with just a handful of hectares under vine into no fewer than seven sub-zones.

For instance, Gattinara is the only place in Piedmont, and probably in the world for that matter, where Nebbiolo grows on soils of volcanic origin. It’s a terroir which gives the wines a distinctive minerally twist.

Ghemme and Bramaterra, on the other hand, have glacial-alluvial soils with more clay, giving the wines a rounder, softer character, while the sandy soils of Lessona make for very fine textures and intense floral aromas.

If there is a downside to all this sub-division, it is the scale of production. aAccording to the latest official figures, Gattinara has 94ha of vineyard with a production of fewer than 500,000 bottles. Ghemme has 50ha; Bramaterra 41ha; and Lessona – where production is in effect concentrated in a single estate, just 21ha.

The consequence is that you might have to hunt around for a bottle – but your efforts will be repaid.

A taste of Alto Piemonte: Richard Baudains' top picks

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Piedmont & northern Italy

The northern Italy shortlist for Wines of the Year 2025 was dominated by Barolo; I’ve only picked one however, despite such a strong showing, in order to ensure that other northerly winemaking regions are also represented.

Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva is an object of desire for Barolo lovers, and its lofty reputation is solidified by a perfect score from Michaela Morris, DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont and author of our Barolo vintage report (see June 2025 issue).

Other high achievers of note this year include GB Burlotto’s epic Monvigliero Barolo 2021 (99 points), and a clutch of impeccable releases from Borgogno, Oddero and Bruno Giacosa; the latter’s Barbarescos were also very impressive, as you may expect from this benchmark producer.

But it is Paitin’s Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne Riserva 2020 that claims the spot as the top-scoring Barbaresco of the year – and one of our Wines of the Year. Elsewhere, in the northeast, Terlano’s I Primo 2019 blend is testament to the experience and dedication of winemaker Rudi Kofler.

Despite only having a handful of vintages under its belt – first vintage, 2011 – I Primo has entered the elite top echelon of Italian white wines. Across in Lombardy, Monte Rossa’s Cabochon is a powerful and concentrated Chardonnay-led Franciacorta sparkling which wowed our judges at a panel tasting held in late 2024 (see December 2024 issue).

Lastly, back over in Veneto, Bertani’s Amarone Classico 2015 effortlessly juxtaposes all of the depth and richness of Valpolicella’s flagship style with almost unbelievable levels of elegance.

Tuscany & southern Italy

Strong showings from Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Bolgheri this year made the Tuscan selection for Wines of the Year very tough. Masseto 2006 received my first ever perfect score when I tasted it alongside other vintages at a rare tasting in November 2024, so naturally it had to be included.

Our regular Italy contributor and DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont Michaela Morris was awestruck by the single-cask Poggio di Sotto Brunello Riserva 2019 – our joint top-scoring Brunello Riserva from the year’s releases – describing it as ‘a masterpiece of proportionality’.

Although we absolutely must recognise the 99pt Cerretalto Brunello di Montalcino 2019 from Casanova di Neri, as well as the 98pt Riservas from Baricci, Biondi-Santi, Fuligni and Il Marroneto.

In the Maremma, coastal southern Tuscany, impressive results are being achieved at Le Pupille following a process of transition as Elisabetta Geppetti’s son Ettore Rizzi brings the winemaking in-house.

He’s taking over from the highly regarded consultant Luca D’Attoma, with whom he worked while he fine-tuned his own craft.

Ettore’s third vintage flying solo is crowned by an absolutely stunning 2022 Saffredi Toscana Rosso. Moving further south, in Sicily we reach Pietradolce’s Barbagalli vineyard on Etna.

For me, this is a bona-fide grand cru, with the consistency, complexity and wow-factor you might expect to find in the finest sites of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits or Piedmont’s Langhe, combining finesse and structure to great effect.

Our sole white selection this year comes from the island of Sardinia – Siddùra’s Maìa took the top accolade, by a significant margin, at our ‘Tuscany vs Sardinia’ Vermentino panel tasting early in the year (see April 2025 issue), exemplifying the quality inherent in the small DOCG of Vermentino di Gallura when done right.

Wines of the year 2025: Italy

Wines from Piedmont and northern Italy are listed first, then Tuscany and the south

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Few names in Barolo make aficionados’ hearts flutter faster than that of Bussia. Among the earliest of the region’s subdistricts to be identified on wine labels, this year’s 2021 vintage release marks the 60th anniversary of the very first Bussia bottling – from the esteemed Prunotto estate.

Alfredo Prunotto established the estate in 1922 upon buying the ‘Ai Vini delle Langhe’ cooperative, which was on the brink of collapse. He and his wife ran the company until retiring in 1956.

As their children showed no interest in taking over, they sold it to their young winemaker friend – the legendary Beppe Colla.

Having previously worked for the largest grape purchasers in the Langhe, Colla knew exactly where to source the best fruit for his wines.

He was also inspired by his travels to Burgundy: while Barolo was traditionally a blend from vineyards in different locations, Colla introduced a Burgundian model, making single-site wines and labelling them as such.

His approach was revolutionary (and criticised) at the time but eventually became widely adopted, paving the way for the huge diversity of site-specific Barolo we see today. Among the sites Colla chose, Bussia was identified for the quality of its tannins.

Notoriously, the Barolo of Colla’s era required years to soften. ‘With a tendency to sweetness, they [Bussia’s tannins] are very silky almost from the beginning of the wine’s life in bottle,’ notes Gianluca Torrengo, Prunotto’s oenologist since 1999.

‘Beppe considered that accessibility of tannins an added value because it meant not having to wait as long.’

Bussia back then was much smaller than the official MGA of today. It corresponded to the area of Bussia Soprana – an amphitheatre that encompasses the vineyards of Gabutti, Colonnello, Cicala and Romirasco (the latter three made famous by Aldo Conterno) – as well as the neighbouring hill which includes Dardi and Mondoca.

However, when Barolo’s MGAs were legally defined in 2010, Bussia was demarcated as a vast area – approximately 4km as the crow flies.

It now extends all the way from the village of Monforte d’Alba to Castiglione Falletto’s southernmost MGAs of Pugnane and Mariondino; an enlargement that Torrengo explains as bureaucratic, ‘because the name Bussia is also used for a river, a road, a central hamlet and an upper hamlet.’

The next chapter

After managing its distribution since 1989, Antinori acquired Prunotto in 1994. Colla remained at the estate until the transition to Antinori was complete.

Under the guidance of Antinori’s head of winemaking, Renzo Cotarella, the company immediately began buying vineyards, so as not to rely on purchasing fruit.

The first sites purchased were located in Bussia, and today the estate boasts a total of eight hectares of south- to southwest-facing plots in the original nucleus of the MGA.

Piero Antinori’s eldest daughter, Albiera – now president of Antinori – was in her mid-20s when she was tasked with managing the estate. Coming from Tuscany, she recalls that ‘those first few years, we were simply trying to understand’.

Her aim was to walk the tightrope between respecting local tradition and moving forward. ‘We looked for wines that didn’t need 40 years before being drinkable, with a colour that was red rather than rosé.’

This period corresponded with a time when many in the region, including Antinori, were experimenting with everything from more extractive macerations to the use of new French oak barriques.

‘Whether this went too far, I don’t know’, Albiera muses.

A taste of time

Earlier this year, Albiera hosted a tasting of Prunotto’s Bussia at the estate. Spanning six decades, it charted the broader evolution of Barolo – stylistic trends were palpable in the glass.

Although the inaugural 1961 was absent, the lineup did include the exceptional 1978 and almost as outstanding 1985 vintages from Colla’s tenure. Both were thrilling relics of a bygone era.

I couldn’t help being in awe of the 1978. Still vibrant and steely at almost 50 years old, it was impossible to fathom it in its youth. ‘It must have been like drinking lemonade,’ Albiera remarked to me.

The 1978 was also the only Riserva in the roster: until 1983, the Colla family declared almost all their single-site wines as such.

The wines from 1996, 2004 and 2008 represented a transitional phase. Deeper in hue with more volume and bulk, they are ageing less gracefully than the older examples.

While not lacking in flashy charm, the dense, extracted, oak-tinged 2004 was the most illustrative of these extremes, whereas the 2008 suggested an easing up.

Looking ahead

The final three vintages poured – 2016, 2019 and 2021 – demonstrated the direction that Antinori has taken Prunotto after much internal reflection.

In terms of winemaking, extractions are now much gentler, and macerations relatively short (approximately 10 days). French oak is still preferred but the casks are medium to large in size (25 to 75 hectolitres).

‘The last 10 years signify a turning point,’ asserted Cotarella, who was candid about his learning curve with Nebbiolo. ‘Now we are looking to bring depth of flavour without weighing the wine down.’

Indeed, the trio was united by a toned, balletic frame rather than body-builder muscles.

The 2016 struck me as somewhat naïve, though its purity and finesse of tannins were undeniable. Both 2019 and 2021 amplified these attributes, showing greater sophistication and intricacy, particularly in the former.

It remains to be seen if these recent releases will endure as long as their predecessors from the 1970s and 1980s. However, they are clearly poised to offer immense drinking pleasure throughout the arc of their evolution – something that couldn’t necessarily be said about the Barolo of yesteryear.

Prunotto’s Bussia: Tasting back in time

Below, Michaela picks out her six top wines from a tasting which spanned six decades of Prunotto’s Bussia label

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Southwest of Alba toward Barolo lies Roddi, a tiny village known for The Path of Poetry and Truffle Dog University, where canines train to hunt the local white and black gold.

Barolo, poetry, and truffles share more than proximity – each takes time to compose and even more to comprehend.

Surrounded by vino, verse and funghi, I explored a zone of long-established rules and regency. Maybe the best time to start a Barolo collection was 20 years ago with 19th century red wine blue bloods like Fontanafredda, Marchesi di Barolo and Vietti, but what if you could be an early adopter of the next-wave classics rising next door?

The following aren’t legacy estates with showpiece cantinas – they’re bootstrapped farmers with dirt under their nails and, more importantly, brilliant terroir underfoot. This is Barolo’s real wealth.

These emerging artisans occupy less than 1% of the planted area, but their wines brim with Piedmont’s coveted somewhereness that drives prices and promotes legends.

Roccheviberti

The inevitable latecomer

Claudio Viberti’s father farmed Nebbiolo at the precipice of ‘rocche’, sheer white limestone cliffs between Monforte and Barolo, yet sold the fruit and never bottled under the Viberti name. The family strong-armed a young Claudio into oenology school, but he pursued another path.

In 2002, the land beckoned and the son returned. By then in his early 40s, it took a few years to get his bearings. ‘About five years ago,’ says Claudio, ‘I found my groove and the wines that this land wants to produce. Word-of-mouth is spreading.’

The dramatic sites are precious crus known for perfume, backbone, and ageable elegance – his father’s Rocche di Castiglione grapes were sold to grand houses. In this unique micro-zone, quality is damn near inevitable.

I witnessed a restaurateur from Alba’s exceptional Osteria dei Sognatori load cases and cases into the back of a vintage Fiat. Tourists drink labels, locals drink delights, and even answering to a consorzio with strict parameters, there’s room to take a creative turn.

20,000 bottles; 3.5 hectares; roccheviberti.it

Prandi

The insistent throwback

Family politics and primogeniture conspired to sideline Cristina Marello Prandi. Italian tradition favours firstborn sons – women are the last resort.

Still, Prandi’s hands wouldn’t be pried from where her great-grandfather founded the winery in 1856 on a ridge above the iconic Cannubi hill. In the late-1980s, her uncle transitioned to wine in bulk and thus no Prandi labels emerged as Barolo went global.

Thanks to dogged persistence and dirt-first agronomy, Cristina finally owns part of those vineyards overlooking her home village. ‘Barolo, for me, is my town and then my wine,’ she explains.

When friends and classmates left for adventures abroad, she stayed put. ‘I never tried to escape. My land is my study and my study is my experience.’

Imagine a young Jane Goodall dedicated to grapes instead of chimps. Wunderkind Prandi takes a similarly intuitive, holistic approach – a new expression of old beliefs in soil stewardship and agricultural diversity.

Prandi’s instinct and quiet wildness show in the purity of her wines. ‘We are organic since always. We don’t have a to-do list. There’s no recipe.’

25,000 bottles; 4 hectares; cristinaprandi.com

Cascina Bongiovanni

The committed family

It starts with a balance of labour: Marina Giordano and daughter Sara face the public and deal with trade. The men grow grapes and make wine.

Davide Mozzone might be neurodivergent; his son, Luca, certainly is. Marina sees this as a factor in their success: while others court applause, they pour savant-level focus into their cellar and famed sites of Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga and Monforte.

In generations past, the Bongiovanni family worked for nobiles and sold grapes grown for volume. ‘But when times changed,’ says Mazzone, ‘the only choice became to aim for quality.’ That’s when they shifted to expression, complexity, and ripening seeds.

‘It takes the plants 30 or 40 years to find equilibrium. And you only get 40 or 50 vintages as a winegrower.’ Thirty-three vintages in, Mozzone and his vines reflect a profound harmony, and their portfolio spans Nebbiolo’s full spectrum.

‘We produce something for the table everyday, and for the culture later. Drinkability and ageability – what if you can have both?’ he asks.

Their Barolo is rich reward for those with and without the patience to wait decades.

50,000 bottles; 7 hectares; cascinabongiovanni.it

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Seven wine styles to drink with pork:

White wine

• Riesling
• Viognier
• Chenin Blanc

Red wine

• Sangiovese (Chianti Classico)
• Mencia
• Grenache / Garnacha (red or rosé)
• Gamay (Beaujolais)

Decanter Premium is the ideal last-minute gift for wine lovers!

Is red or white wine best with pork?

Pork is quite a versatile meat that can match brilliantly with both red and white wines – not to mention orange wine – depending on what you’re cooking or eating. 

Try Riesling white wines or juicy reds with relatively high acidity to cut through the fat content of roast pork belly, or comforting Grenache-led red blends with midweek bangers and mash.

Tuscany’s Sangiovese-fuelled reds, with their balance of structure, wild berry fruit and acidity, can be delicious with a porchetta-style roast or slow-cooked pork shoulder at the dinner table. 

‘Italian reds always have that wonderful acidity that’s perfect with pork,’ wrote Decanter food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in this festive pairings piece.

Food and wine pairing principles

Food and wine pairing has been the subject of debate among wine writers. While proponents outline certain principles, personal taste is hugely important in this arena.

Even classic wine styles may vary between individual producers, but experimenting with different combinations and trying new bottles can be part of the fun.

When it comes to choosing a wine to pair with pork dishes, Jean-Baptiste Lemoine, deputy director of food and beverage at The Goring hotel in London, previously told Decanter it’s important to consider:

• the cut of the pork;
• the way it’s cooked;
• the sauce you are serving it with

Matthieu Longuère, a master sommelier and the wine development manager at Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school, told Decanter in 2024. ‘Whatever the meat is, it depends what you do with it.’

Think about matching the intensity of the wine with that of the dish, as well as any acidity and sweetness brought by ingredients in the meal.

Wine with pork belly and suckling pig

For tender, melt-in-the-mouth suckling pig, Lemoine advised drinking lighter styles of red. These include Spanish Mencia, Nerello Mascalese from Sicily, Pinot Noir from cooler regions or Chilean Carménère.

He also recommended Riesling with a touch of sweetness. This can be a classic with pork belly, too.

‘Roast pork belly works best with a wine that has a high level of acidity plus a touch of sweetness,’ wrote Fiona Beckett, naming 25 top food and wine pairings.

Germany is renowned for top Riesling wines, from dry styles to varying sweetness levels. Great Rieslings are also found in Alsace and the US Finger Lakes area, as well as parts of Austria, Australia, New Zealand and Canada – to name a few sources.

Flavours in the dish can help to lead your wine choice, too.

Apricots in this cider vinegar-roasted pork belly recipe ‘would lead me in the direction of Viognier rather than Riesling’, Beckett noted. 

In a Decanter ‘perfect pairing’ article for chestnut-stuffed pork fillet, she said: ‘Given the sweetness from the chestnuts, prunes and redcurrant jelly, I’d go for a wine that has a touch of sweetness itself. [For example] Alsace or New Zealand or Oregon Pinot Gris, or an old-vine Chenin Blanc.’

Wines to drink with a roast pork

‘Roast pork calls for something that combines richness with acidity, whether it’s white or red,’ Rhône expert Matt Walls previously told Decanter.

For white wine lovers, ‘Condrieu [Viognier] can be a brilliant match for pork roasted with herbs like Oregano or Marjoram,’ said Walls, who is Decanter’s Rhône correspondent and a contributing editor.

He also advised considering fresher styles of Chardonnay, as well as Chenin Blanc from either the Loire Valley or South Africa.

Tuscan reds, such as Chianti Classico or the vaunted wines produced around the hilltop town of Montalcino, can be delicious with a herby pork roast, or a porchetta-style festive dish – as previously noted. 

Walls pointed to Grenache-led wines, as well as Pinot Noir from warmer climates. Grenache is known as Garnacha in Spain, and stole the show in a Decanter panel tasting of red wines from Aragón last year.

Wine to drink with pork sausages

Walls returned to the Grenache theme when considering a wine for pork sausages. ‘For a classic bangers and mash, I tend to reach for a young Grenache-based wine like a southern Rhône.’

Classic blends of Grenache, Syrah (Shiraz) and Mourvèdre – and variations on the theme – are produced in many regions, from the Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon in France to parts of South Australia and California.  

In a similar vein, the Carignan from Languedoc-Roussillon featured in the list below promises to enhance comforting bangers and mash on an autumnal evening, wrote Decanter’s David Williams in his recent review.

Other options include Gamay-based Beaujolais Cru, which can also make a great wine match for traditional Christmas ham. 

Don’t ignore rosé wines or orange wines at the dinner table, either.

Dry rosé wines could be a good bet for BBQ pork, whether pulled or cooked as a chop, said Lemoine. However, the meat might overpower some of the more delicate styles.

Decanter’s Williams recently recommended this budget-friendly, off-dry orange wine led by Grüner Veltliner. ‘A cushion of sweetness makes this a great match for spicy pork dishes,’ he wrote.

Watch out for too much oak in some wines

Beware of wines with prominent oak flavours when it comes to some pork dishes. 

Oak in wine can be tricky with sweet and sour pork, for example, said Longuère at Le Cordon Bleu London. 

‘The oak is quite bitter, quite smoky. If you have something sweet, it tends to make it taste quite metallic. And if you have something quite high in acidity, it clashes.’

Great wine with pork: Inspiration from our experts

The following wines have all been tasted by Decanter’s experts and include bottles at a range of prices.

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Wine has been aged in many unusual places before: under the sea, in caves and in disused mine shafts. But as far as anyone knows, it has never been matured on the top of a mountain.

The potential effects of the low temperatures and the rarified atmosphere at extreme altitudes on the ageing process of wine intrigued oenologist Danilo Drocco, who set out to look for an answer.

Notes on wines from Valtellina aged on a mount top below

Drocco is the director and winemaker at Nino Negri in the mountainous Valtellina valley. Founded in 1897, Nino Negri is the leading producer here, with an annual production of around 700,000 bottles sourced from 35 hectares of estate vineyards, as well as from 200 small-scale growers.

Valtellina lies in the north of Lombardy, at the foot of the Rhaetian Alps and on the border with Switzerland. Its vineyards stretch for around 50km on the south-facing flank of a valley which runs east to west on either side of the provincial capital of Sandrio.

Tiny plots, supported by a staggering 2,500km of dry stone walls, creep up the valley side to almost 800 metres above sea level with gradients of up to 85%. It’s a spectacular landscape, and a unique viticultural environment.

In Valtellina, Nebbiolo is known locally as Chiavennasca.

In the area’s unique growing conditions, the variety makes lighter wines than in the famous vineyards of the Langhe, with more delicate tannins, firm acidity, and the refined aromas that only the long hours of sunlight, extreme temperature excursions, and the long, slow ripening of mountain wines can produce.

The mountain project

Drocco wanted to test the possibility of further characterising the mountain origins of these wines by adding the extra dimension of ageing at very high altitude.

He chose the two highest accessible sites in the valley; the Cima Bianca, at 3,000 metres above sea level at Bormio, and the Cima La Salin above Livigno. Both are iconic ski destinations, with mountain chalets where the wines could conveniently be cellared.

Drocco selected two wines with special significance for the company, both from the excellent 2016 vintage. The single-vineyard Valtellina Superiore Valgella Vigna Fracia comes from a plot purchased by founder, Nino Negri, in 1897 as part of the original estate.

It is vinified in the most classic of styles: temperature controlled fermentation and pumping over of the cap, with around 15 days of maceration and ageing in traditional Slavonian oak barrels.

The Valtellina Superiore Sfursat Carlo Negri on the other hand, is named after the son of the founder, who was responsible for the modern development of the company. Sfursat represents the long Valtellina tradition of producing full-bodied, long-ageing wines from partially dried grapes, in a style similar to Amarone.

In July 2022, 1,200 magnums of each label were taken from the company cellars in Chiuro to the chalets in Bormio and Livigno, where they stayed until the summer of 2025. As a control, 300 of each were aged for the full period in the Negri cellars.

Drocco was looking for the answers to two questions. Firstly, do the wines aged at high altitude taste and smell significantly different to those from the underground cellars of the winery? And secondly, if there is a difference in the taste profile, what is it?

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The results… so far

I tasted the wines with Drocco last month and the answer to the first question is a resounding yes – the wines taste very different. One is not necessarily superior to the other, but they do appear to show a different state of evolution.

The Vigna Fracia from the cellars in Chiuro was a classic pale Nebbiolo shade with a transparent rim. The nose was mid-intensity but broad and expressive, with dark berries, sweet spices (perhaps aniseed?) some laurel and subtle notes of sweet leather; all very attractive.

The palate was rather dry, perhaps a little austere, long on the finish with a distinctive note of white pepper. A very classic Valtellina.

The Vigna Fracia from 3,000m was a much brighter, darker ruby shade, and on the nose it had a very fresh, precise fruit and floral character. There was less breadth and nuance but more intensity.

The palate had a great attack and a very dynamic progression, with lovely integration of the tannins and a fresh, almost crunchy finish of wild berries. A wine with bags of juice and energy.

The Sfursat from the company cellars had a refined nose with the classic aromas of a partially dried-grape wine: fig and dates, some damp straw, and raisiny fruit.

The palate had a fleshy middle and a warm finish, with dried fruit and dark chocolate – a very typical Sfursat from a great vintage, showing the first signs of maturity but with ample margin for evolution.

Again, the first noticeable difference in the high altitude wine was the intensity of the colour. On the nose, if the cellar version had a pruney character, the mountain version was all fresh plum. The palate had a vibrant entry, enormous volume in the progression, and a finish with tangy acidity, fresh fruit and floral aromatics.

A very powerful, emphatic wine, but one with great balance in which the alcohol (16% abv!) was perfectly integrated. In the case of the Sfursat, the differences between the two samples were even more marked than for the Vigna Fracia.

A final question

The result of the experiment begs a third question. What is the reason for the difference? Is it to do with atmospheric pressure ? At sea level, pressure is calculated as 1.0 atmospheres (atm). At 3,000m above-sea-level it falls to 0.68 atm – a reduction of one-third. 

The amount of oxygen in the air is the same as at sea level, but the reduced pressure means it is less assimilable. Does this slow down oxidation?

The annual temperature range at altitude was 6-12°C. In the cellars in the valley, it was 10-15°C. Could a difference of 3.5°C in the average temperatures over the year explain the difference?

The experiment will now be repeated with different wines, and their evolution monitored by a team from Turin University to try to find answers to these questions.

The project has the potential to open a lot of scientific windows. Whether it will lead to high-altitude ageing on a wider scale remains to be seen but in the meantime, by involving the snowy mountain tops of the Valtellina in the cycle of wine production, Drocco’s intuition has given an added dimension to the meaning of terroir in this beautiful region.

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Pietro Ratti walks among the rows of his newest vineyard, located in the highest part of La Morra, one of the 11 communes that make up the Barolo DOCG area.

It’s a scorching summer day but here at Serradenari, situated almost 500m above sea level, the woods surrounding the vineyard allow for a light breeze to blow.

The view is magnificent: the hill faces southwest and in the background the Alps are clearly visible.

‘My father did not consider Serradenari a cru,’ Ratti (pictured, below) says. ‘He thought that this hill was too high, too cold for Nebbiolo grapes. Now we enjoy with satisfaction our new Barolo, produced from grapes grown here.’ (The 2019 was the first vintage, released in 2023.)

Global wine geography is changing, and Ratti’s ‘Barolo of the peaks’ is a clear example of this.

Redrawing the map

Areas that were once considered unsuitable for viticulture – and even more unsuitable for producing great wines – are now on the rise due to climate change.

Pietro’s father, the late Renato Ratti (born 1934), published the Carta del Barolo map in 1970, on which the historic sub-zones of Barolo wine were indicated for the first time, including those most suited for producing high-quality bottles.

For geological and environmental reasons, the Serradenari zone doesn’t appear on that map.

‘Until 30 years ago, the cultivation of Nebbiolo vines, intended for Barolo, stopped below around 400m of elevation,’ explains Ratti, indicating the main road below leading north to La Morra that, in the past, constituted a sort of commonly accepted boundary.

Even today, most of the vineyards of the denomination are located below the road that cuts across the hill.

In 2004, however, the legendary producer Bruno Giacosa from Neive vinified the grapes grown above that road in his Barolo Croera ($179.99 K&LWines), a one-year experiment.

Mapping like mad

Langhe winemakers like mapping.

Long before Renato Ratti, two local scholars, the surveyor Lorenzo Fantini and botanist Ferdinando Vignolo Lutati, had already attempted to highlight the areas suitable for Barolo in their texts, titled respectively Monografia sulla Viticoltura ed Enologia nella Provincia di Cuneo (1879) and Sulla delimitazione delle zone a vini tipici (1929).

Following on from Ratti’s Carta del Barolo, the Atlante delle vigne di Langa was drawn up in 2000 by the experts of the Slow Food movement (headquartered in Bra, just northwest of the Barolo region).

Then, in 2010, came the official map of the 170 Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) delimited production areas, pushed through by the local winemakers’ consorzio and now an integral part of the regulations of Barolo DOCG.

Except for Ratti’s map, the works cited don’t introduce a hierarchy between the vineyards (the MGAs don’t classify the sub-zones).

To identify the best locations, researchers asked locals, indicating the sub-zones considered most sought-after, whose grapes were promised to brokers year after year, or those for which the demand from bottling companies exceeded the supply of landowners.

They were the slopes exposed to the sun, the so-called sorì, in Piemontese dialect. This gave rise to the myth of the great crus of the Langhe.

In practice, these were the vineyards on hills at 300m-350m facing south and southwest. The feeling today is that something is changing because of climate imbalances, so other sub-zones, once undervalued, are unexpectedly getting their time in the sun.

When did the Langhe start to heat up?

Opinions among Barolo producers differ. Elio Altare said in an interview that 1997 was a turning point, while Angelo Gaja calls 2008 a ‘year of no return’. And many of us remember the torrid summer of 2003, a bit of a halfway point between those two.

In fact, when Barolo’s 2003 vintage hit the market four years later, the wines were loaded with alcohol and jammy fruit.

Winemakers realised that it was time to take some countermeasures and so, since then, summer thinning of the vines has been reduced, thick foliage is encouraged and anti-sun (and anti-hail) nets have appeared in the Barolo crus.

The ‘2003 climate’ has become the norm, but Barolo producers have equipped themselves.

Pietro Ratti claims that Nebbiolo is ‘a vine more influenced by the microclimate than by the soil’, a variety that, in order to adapt to the recent climatic context, is rather willing to grow in the ‘blank’ areas of the known maps.

Castelletto

The most striking case is Castelletto – a sub-zone of Monforte d’Alba commune in the southern sector of the Barolo DOCG zone – which occupies a rather steep hillside exposed to the morning sun. Opposite, on the other side of the valley, stands the legendary sorì of Serralunga d’Alba commune, with Vignarionda MGA in the foreground.

Castelletto was recognised as an MGA in 2010, but on Ratti’s map, the area had been left blank (whereas Vignarionda was included), just like in the geographical maps of antiquity: ‘Here be dragons’.

In the past, only the central part of the ridge, Pressenda, was recognised as a quality vineyard; other grapes from Castelletto were delivered to the historic Fontanafredda winery, which mixed them with those from other vineyards.

About 10 years ago, two new wineries, Fortemasso and Castello di Perno, decided to focus on this MGA, and the destiny of Castelletto changed.

Despite having different styles, the Barolos of Castelletto are fine, elegant, mineral and deliciously fresh.

Fortemasso’s entire production of Barolo comes only from vineyards in the Castelletto area, using the highest part of the hill for its Barolo Castelletto Riserva, which seems to give its best in years of high temperatures.

It’s too early to say what the actual ‘role’ of climate change is; what is certain is that now, the Castelletto zone consistently gives surprisingly pleasant wines without abdicating Barolo’s structure and tannic nature.

Curiously, the owners of both wineries aren’t originally from the Langhe. ‘I respect the local tradition, but coming from outside, I am not conditioned by it. Perhaps at the start I was considered a bit naive,’ admits Gregorio Gitti (pictured, below), university professor, lawyer and owner of Castello di Perno.

That may be so, but in the meantime Barolo’s great names have landed in Castelletto, one above all: Comm. GB Burlotto (2020, £307 Vinum/$249.95 Somms Cellars).

Ravera

Another MGA on the rise is Ravera, in the municipality of Novello, also in Barolo DOCG’s southern sector.

This is a large and varied sub-zone in terms of elevation and exposures, but at its heart is a wonderful amphitheatre of vineyards dominated by Cascina Nuova, Elvio Cogno’s winery.

Elvio’s daughter Nadia and her husband Valter Fissore believed in the potential of Ravera, whose grapes used to end up blended with those from other areas.

Fissore recalls: ‘In 1991, we were the first to come out with a Barolo Ravera, and for many years we were the only ones. The best area is the one facing southeast, open to the valley, ventilated and blessed by the temperature range.’

Today, they produce three Barolo Ravera from vineyards in the sub-zone: Ravera, Vigna Elena (both grown at 380m; Ravera 2020, £80.45 Shelved Wine/$125 Morrell Wine, Vigna Elena 2019, £129.72 Goedhuis Waddesdon/$249.79, Craft Wine) and Bricco Pernice (at 320m; 2019, £105 Vinvm/ $129.94 JJ Buckley).

According to Fissore, ‘Ravera teaches that freshness does not come at the expense of structure and longevity’.

If, at the start, Barolo from Ravera amazed for its chromatic transparency, salinity and finesse, over time these same characteristics have become rewarding: the sub-zone has been the great discovery of the 2000s, as demonstrated by some of the best wineries of the Langhe, such as Vietti, Vajra, Réva and ArnaldoRivera.

Blending benefit

In the Langhe region there are also those who prefer to keep alive the tradition of blending grapes from multiple vineyards to obtain ‘classic’ Barolos.

This offers the advantage of balancing the contribution of grapes from warmer and cooler plots, depending on the vintage conditions.

Pietro Ratti takes advantage of this for his Barolo Marcenasco (2020, £47.99 Cockburns of Leith/$65 Empire Wine), obtained from several estate-owned vineyards in La Morra, spread across different elevations.

But there are wineries that have always produced only classic Barolo: Bartolo Mascarello (see recommendations, below) has always blended the grapes from its five vineyards, some of which are in the famous Cannubi sub-zone, while others are in the east-facing Ruè MGA (both in the Barolo commune).

‘No one denies that the climate has changed, but chasing the highest or least sunny crus makes no sense,’ states owner Maria Teresa Mascarello (pictured, above).

‘The great sorì have not gone out of fashion, because the vineyards have the ability to self-regulate: in hot and dry years they produce fewer bunches to safeguard the integrity of their fruit,’ she continues.

In Maria Teresa’s opinion, it isn’t even necessary to apportion the grapes according to whether they come from more or less warm vineyard parcels, because ‘through the blend, each sub-zone makes a different contribution, so it’s easy to find the optimal balance in the final product’.

With wine region zoning in vogue, claiming that the most balanced Barolo is one that results from a blend may sound provocative.

But thanks to new vineyard locations and new agronomic measures, Barolo is one of the few Italian red wines whose alcohol content hasn’t skyrocketed, staying stable at around 14%. In this way, in the Langhe of 2025 and beyond, there are hopes of overcoming the challenge of global warming.

Barolo’s fresher face: Gaia’s pick of eight to try

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For all the attention lavished on Barolo and Barbaresco, the noble Nebbiolo grape gets very little of its own airtime. What is Nebbiolo when it isn’t either of these?

In the greater Langhe area – which also includes Roero – the answer is two confusingly overlapping denominations of Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba.

Without going into the minutiae of the specific regulations that distinguish the two, together these two DOCs provide producers with an outlet for non-DOCG interpretations.

Michaela’s pick of the 2022 and 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba below

For Nebbiolo lovers, they offer a treasure trove of diverse expressions that are typically less expensive and more immediately drinkable.

Given less stringent ageing requirements, these Nebbiolos are typically released sooner than producers’ DOCG bottlings of the same vintage.

As such, current releases hail from 2022 and 2023. Despite being marked by drought and heat, both years managed to yield wines with remarkable freshness and vibrancy.

A passing resemblance

Vintages aside, style is greatly impacted by estate philosophy. Most winemakers are adamant that they aren’t trying to produce a ‘baby Barolo’.

Nevertheless, some do bear a greater resemblance to DOCG wines than others – particularly those made from declassified Barolo or Barbaresco grapes and with longer ageing in wood.

Of these, Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Rinaldi’s savoury 2022s are worth seeking out. They also represent greater accessibility – both in terms of drinking and price – within the context of their respective ranges. Gian Luca Colombo’s Meretto is another must-try if you can find it.

Departing from this traditional approach, Lalù favours maturation in a combination of cement and wood to reduce the impact of the latter. The 2023 impresses for its brightness of fruit and sophisticated texture.

Equally joyful, Cascina Penna Currado’s 100% whole-berry fermented Bricco Lago spends just a few months in large cask.

Others examples see no wood at all. As Valter Fissore at Elvio Cogno states: ‘It is supposed to be a friendly wine for drinking chilled in the summer.’

He purchased a vineyard outside the DOCG zone specifically for Langhe Nebbiolo and the 2023 Montegrilli is a deliciously fruity and crisp Nebbiolo. Azelia’s 2022 is a little bit richer but still in the same vein, and both boast excellent value.

One of my favourite examples of ‘naked’ Nebbiolo is Rivetto’s amphora-aged Vigna Lirano.

A special mention must be made of the Roero region, where predominantly sandy soil lends itself to a lighter, more elegant rendering of Nebbiolo. Mauro Molino’s 2023 is a lovely value-driven version.

Ratcheting it up a few notches, Bruno Giacosa and Sandrone’s bottlings from the Valmaggiore cru were two of my top picks of the entire report.

Michaela’s 25 top Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba to try:

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Deeply rooted in the winemaking history of Piedmont, Asti DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG deserve greater attention.

A UNESCO World Heritage site of timeless charm, the region’s vineyards are planted on the sun-exposed slopes of limestone hills.

The vineyard area of these two denominations is the largest in Piedmont, with roughly 10,000ha spread across the three provinces of Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo, and can be split into two distinct macro-zones: the steeper, tougher soils of the Langhe and the gentler hills of Monferrato.

We are in the land of Moscato Bianco, part of the extensive family of Moscati present all over Europe and loved by noble courts in past t centuries for its perfumes and refreshing sweetness.

See notes and scores for 18 effervescent Asti wines below

Asti Spumante: A natural ‘lo-wine’

Representing almost two-thirds of Asti’s total annual production of 90 million bottles, Asti Spumante is mostly made using the tank or Charmat method – or should I say the Martinotti method, given that the technique was invented in 1895 by the then director of the oenological institute in Asti, Federico Martinotti.

Primary fermentation is halted by cooling the tanks, retaining the wine’s natural sugars and resulting in a lower alcohol content, typically around 7%-9%. The wine’s vibrant bubbles arise from secondary fermentation and the result is a smooth, round and creamy spumante.

Asti Spumante is incredibly versatile, pairing beautifully with light desserts and creamy cheeses, but also serving as an ideal aperitif.

In the last few years, a small group of winemakers has begun working on a more austere, tense and bone-dry version of Asti Spumante to celebrate its vibrant character with the touch of salinity the limestone soil can provide.

Moscato d’Asti: Froth & fruit

The production method for Moscato d’Asti involves lighter pressure during fermentation, creating a soft effervescence.

As a result, it has to be classified under the frizzante category. Its lower level of alcohol – around 5%-6% – and highly aromatic expression of ripe, zesty fruit and enticing orange blossom elements are complemented by some intense residual sugar.

The grapes are harvested by hand and yields for Moscato d’Asti are distinctly lower than for its fully sparkling counterpart.

Some of the wines can age surprisingly well, for 10-20 years – usually those from older vines and from the single-vineyard ‘sorì’ (the term refers to a very steep piece of land) or from the former sub-zone Canelli, which was elevated to a separate DOCG in 2023. These wines also typically offer a fuller body and more complex balsamic and saffron notes.

There’s a striking consistency across all of the 2024s I’ve tasted: the wines show explosive papaya, quince and pineapple notes combined with a floral touch and a ginger and lime twist, and that ‘piemontese feeling’ of mineral complexity.

18 effervescent Asti wines

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The 2021 Barolo vintage has arrived, and it’s making waves. Tastings reveal a vintage of striking character, ripe fruit, and formidable structure, hinting at impressive longevity. But some wines miss the mark, highlighting the vintage’s nuanced complexity.

Certain communes shine, while others deliver mixed results. And while the 2021 vintage offers charismatic, ageable Barolos, high prices for the most in-demand bottles can be a challenge.

Below, we’ve pinpointed 10 outstanding bottlings that deliver remarkable character without the premium price tag. 

Michaela Morris’ 10 top Barolo 2021 value picks below

2021 is a charismatic and ageable vintage for Barolo. Yet while the top wines are highly sought after with soaring prices, there is still value to be found.

Serralunga d’Alba has the highest number of village-level bottlings in the region, and is therefore a particularly good source of wines with a good quality:value ratio.

Outstanding wines can be found throughout its numerous MGAs, with Cerretta a virtual treasure trove: Azelia and Ettore Germano’s bottlings are just two gems there.

The township also features the region’s largest number of village bottlings, identified on the label as ‘Comune di Serralunga d’Alba’. Quality and philosophies vary but in 2021, these provide a great source for value as exemplified by Palladino, Mauro Veglio and Fontanafredda.

Overall, 2021 is absolutely an excellent vintage. While it may not reach the exquisite level of refinement as 2016, it is undeniably worth buying.

Furthermore, as prices for the region’s top estates soar, it is a good year to seek out under-the-radar producers.

Below, I have picked out 10 of the best value bottlings of Barolo 2021. Enjoy!

Read Michaela’s full report on Barolo 2021

Barolo 2021: Top value picks

Vietti, Barolo: While not actually the least expensive Barolo, what it delivers for the money is exceptional.

Azelia, Barolo: A finely woven tapestry of the Scavino family’s holdings in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga.

Castello di Verduno, Barolo: A flagbearer for the village of Verduno; as accessible in price as it is in drinkability.

GD Vajra, Albe, Barolo: When ‘young vines’ means three decades in the ground… This is much more than just a straightforward ‘entry’ Barolo.

Massolino, Barolo: A perennial over-achiever that sets the bar for the rest of the range.

Palladino, Barolo Serralunga d’Alba: One of the most consistent village bottlings that is so satisfyingly Serralunga.

Fontanafredda, Barolo Serralunga d’Alba: An affordable, evocative and widely available snapshot of the township.

Bruna Grimaldi, Camilla, Barolo: Camilla doesn’t aspire to anything beyond short to mid-term pleasures but delivers these with absolute charm.

Icollirossi, Barolo Monforte d’Alba: Showing more focus and polish than in the past, making it a worthwhile buy.

Mauro Molino, Barolo: Despite a pinch from Monforte, this is so elegantly La Morra-esque.

Top 10 Barolo 2021 value picks

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• Best value Brunello di Montalcino 2020: 10 to buy
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• Barbaresco 2022: The hot vintage paradox & pick of the 2020 Riservas

The 2022 Barbaresco vintage presents a paradox: a hot, dry growing season yielding wines that defy expectations, often showing surprising freshness and purity. However, quality is inconsistent, with some wines exhibiting leanness and higher-than-usual volatile acidity.

This report explores the challenges faced by producers which led to earlier-than-average harvests and lower yields. While some vineyards thrived, showcasing the resilience of Nebbiolo and the skill of the agronomists, others struggled.

Discover which communes and vineyards excelled, and find out which respected producer declassified their entire Barbaresco production.

Alongside the 2022s, the report also examines the 2020 Riserva releases, highlighting their graciousness and early accessibility. Uncover the secrets of these contrasting vintages and gain insight into the nuanced character of Barbaresco in a challenging climate.

Barbaresco 2022 vintage rating: 3.5/5

Prolonged and extreme drought with above average temperatures led to an early harvest. Quality is uneven but the successes are truly worthwhile, offering remarkable freshness and near to mid-term drinking.

Notes and scores for the best Barbaresco 2022 & Riserva 2020 below

‘A paradox’ is how many Barbaresco producers describe the 2022 vintage. The paradox is that despite the hot and dry growing season, the wines do not necessarily show as a hot vintage. They are neither exaggerated in alcohol nor overripe or stewy.

Some do demonstrate a candied fruit quality, and tannins can someties have a slightly dry, dusty feel, but freshness is well preserved, and the best examples boast admirable purity, definition and depth. This is a great testament to Barbaresco’s winemakers and agronomists who worked tirelessly to manage and interpret an unprecedented vintage.

Yet quality is not consistent across all estates. Beyond overly lean, lacking examples, I also found a greater number of faulty wines than usual – particularly unpleasantly high VA (volatile acidity) and vinegary notes.

Overall, I consider 2022 a surprisingly good rather than outstanding vintage. Beyond heterogenous quality, there is less clear identity between MGA bottlings. ‘Hot vintages tend to flatten differences’, concurs Daniela Rocca at Albino Rocca.

For this reason, Andrea Sottimano – who produces MGA bottlings exclusively – declassified all the estate’s Barbaresco as Vino da Tavola and sold in bulk. ‘I don’t want to say that 2022 is a bad year. Rather, the wines lack terroir expression’, he declares.

Wine of the vintage

Giuseppe Cortese, Barbaresco Rabajà: The estate went against the grain in 2022, waiting until October 10th to harvest and making no compromises in the cellar. Demonstrating purity, tension and textural complexity, this rang out and took my top score in a blind tasting of almost 70 of its peers.

Barbaresco 2022: Highlights

In terms of highlights, the Barbaresco township was the most consistent. Within its western sector, great sites like Asili and Rabajà proved their mettle. Bruno Giacosa and Ca’ del Baio in the former, and Giuseppe Cortese in the latter are among my top picks.

On the village’s opposite flank, the Ronchi slope benefitted from its eastern orientation being spared the scorching afternoon sun. Look for Albino Rocca and David Fletcher’s bottlings.

In Treiso, Rizzi came out with a lovely set of wines from its fresh, well ventilated sites, while in Neive, Paitin’s Serraboella and Massolino’s Albesani are worth seeking out.

Given the atypical conditions, it is difficult to equate 2022 with other vintages. ‘Perhaps it resembles 2015, but without the ageing potential’, proposes Bruna Giacosa.

Indeed, most wines suggest a drinking window between five to 10 years, but top performers have the potential to reward in the cellar beyond this.

I recommend choosing wisely from trusted producers in 2022, but don’t miss out completely. To do so would deny joy and admiration for this truly unique and paradoxical vintage.

Barbaresco 2022: Vintage conditions

The drought that started in 2020 and continued through 2021 reached its apogee in 2022. Produttori del Barbaresco recorded 5cm of snow in early December 2021, after which there wasn’t any significant precipitation again until 25mm of rain fell on 3 May.

I visited shortly after, when spring rain typically makes it impossible to walk through the vineyards. The earth, however, was powder dry. Nor were the canopies their usual lush, vigorous selves. Instead, the vines had barely grown.

June through to August continued in the same arid vein, adding higher than average temperatures into the mix. Somehow, the vines managed not just to survive but adapt. ‘They looked like bonsai’, describes Gaia Gaja, adding that there was no sign of stress.

The vines responded to the lack of water by forming small clusters and not pushing suckers. ‘This meant less evapotranspiration, and therefore less need for water’, explains Franco Massolino.

The upside was an absence of fungal disease. Likewise, green harvesting was barely necessary. Instead, vineyard work focused on preserving moisture and managing what little canopy there was to shade the grapes from sunburn.

The first half of September saw a couple of scant showers, which were ‘just enough to help Nebbiolo’, according to Luisa Rocca at Bruno Rocca. They also served to bring temperatures down.

Harvest time

When I returned to the region in early October, harvest should have been in full swing. However, most estates had already finished picking with starting dates between one to two weeks earlier than average. One of the rare outliers, Giuseppe Cortese waited until 10 October, crediting a light rain prior for helping bring balance to the grapes.

While some growers maintain that achieving phenolic ripeness was not an issue, deciding when to harvest was a challenge for many. ‘We kept waiting for phenolic maturity, but it never happened’, recalls rising star Francesco Versio.

Yields were considerably lower than average, particularly in hotter, south-facing pockets. Despite healthy grapes with thick skins, winemakers exercised caution in the cellar.

According to Enrico Dellapiana at Rizzi, the dry, hot conditions resulted in low assimilable nitrogen levels, increasing the risk of stuck fermentations. He chose to inoculate ‘to encourage regular and rapid fermentation’.

Shorter macerations were also common. Versio reduced time on the skins to just 15-20 days, versus up to 45 days in 2021, and opted for pump-overs only. ‘There was a risk of making thin wines’, he admits.

Barbaresco 2022 value picks

Castello di Verduno, Barbaresco: This elegant package hails from some of Barbaresco’s most distinguished sites.

Luigi Oddero, Barbaresco: Immediate and ample pleasure for an excellent price.

Nada Giuseppe, Barbaresco Casot: A small family estate with deep roots in Casot and organic certification since 2017.

Poderi Colla, Barbaresco Roncaglie: A top name in the Langhe but stills flies under the radar.

Rizzi, Barbaresco Rizzi: The flagship bottling offers a very affordable introduction to an estate well worth discovering.

What Barbaresco 2022 to drink when

Green light: Drink over the next 5-7 years

Albino Rocca, Barbaresco Cottà: A soft and seductive version of this typically long-lived bottling.

Cascina Luisin, Barbaresco Rabajà-Bas: Lovely precision, best to enjoy while all is in focus.

Enrico Serafino, Barbaresco Bricco di Neive: Suave, yielding and upfront in its charms – perfect for drinking now.

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace, Barbaresco Marcarini: Full of plush fruit and zesty acidity for immediate gratification.

Francesco Versio Barbaresco: One of the denomination’s rising stars, Versio teases out prettiness and perfume in this challenging vintage.

Yellow light: Drink over the next 10+ years

Massolino, Barbaresco Albesani: Charming now but with ample density and length for the next 10 years.

Olek Bondonio, Barbaresco Roncagliette: All its vigour is imposing now but should serve to carry the wine over the next decade.

Rizzi, Barbaresco Pajorè: Boasts depth, buoyancy, elegance and admirable mid-term ageability.

Gaja, Sori San Lorenzo Barbaresco: One of the top wines of the vintage with exceptional definition and cellaring potential of at least 15 years.

Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Asili: Rising gloriously above the vintage’s challenges, this should sail effortlessly into 2040.

Barbaresco Riserva 2020

Apropos of pleasure, Barbaresco’s 2020 Riserva are being released at the same time. Among a small set of approximately 25 tasted, quality is high.

A very warm summer was balanced by showers and the coddled vines yielded ripe, supple, delightful annata wines. Correspondingly, the Riservas emphasise graciousness over power. The few that disappointed were robbed of vintage expression and harmony, perhaps from clumsy or overly long ageing in wood.

Among the category’s successes, Marchesi di Grésy’s Martinenga Gaiun and Bruno Giacosa’s Asili epitomise enduring finesse, while Produttori del Barbaresco’s Ovello and Paitin’s Serraboella Vecchie Vigne demonstrate a charming balance to their usual vigour.

While the vintage does not rate among the longest-lived, the wines should evolve gracefully over 10 to 15 years and will offer relatively early accessibility.

What Barbaresco Riserva 2020 to drink when

Green light: Drink over the next 10 years

Orlando Abrigo, Rongalio Barbaresco Riserva: A well-priced, characterful Riserva from a lesser-known estate.

Fratelli Giacosa, Vigna Gianmate’, Barbaresco Riserva Basarin: Offers plenty to chew on for those looking for a robust Riserva.

Vietti, Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà: Supple and immediately seductive with Barbaresco elegance and Riserva complexity.

Yellow light: Cellaring potential of 15+ years

Bruno Rocca, Barbaresco Rabajà: Very sophisticated and detailed, this will reveal its intricacies slowly.

Paitin, Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne, Barbaresco Serraboella: Its signature austerity is just sufficiently curbed without sacrificing longevity.

Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Ovello: Sturdy and robust but harmonious. Just give it a few years before opening.

Barbaresco & Riserva recommendations:

Wines are listed 2022 Barbarescos first, then 2020 Riservas

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The ‘classic’ 2019 Barolo vintage yielded exciting annata wines, and now the Riserva bottlings are under scrutiny with their release this year.

This report delves into the vintage’s unique profile, examining how its structure translates at the Riserva level. Discover which producers and vineyards have harnessed these characteristics to create wines of exceptional quality and longevity.

Explore the nuanced differences between annata and Riserva bottlings, and gain insight into the ageing potential of specific selections.

In this article:

• An assessment of the Barolo Riserva 2019 bottlings.
• The impact of vintage on Riserva expression.
• What Barolo Riserva 2019 to drink when
• Barolo Riserva 2019: 25 recommendations

Scroll down for Michaela’s pick of the 2019 Barolo Riservas

The widely touted 2019 Barolo vintage has been hailed as ‘classic’ by many. While the term is debatable, the annata (non-Riserva) wines excited me for their tension and tautness.

Complete without being excessive, they were refreshingly reasonable in alcohol levels and youthfully austere. I was therefore curious how this would manifest at the Riserva level.

A first look included approximately 40 examples, a few of these still in cask. Tasting them next to the 2021 Barolo, I was reminded that 2019 is slimmer and sinewy in frame, with less textural richness and density.

This does not make for less valid Riserva, however.

Standout sites

The best harness the firm, linear nature of the vintage, balancing fruit purity with refined tannins. In less successful examples, overtly tertiary aromas and flavours juxtaposed with an unyielding structure made me question their potential to age harmoniously.

While some estates take a ‘classic’ approach by blending their best plots from diverse subdistricts, single-MGA bottlings dominate. Above all, the great sites stood out, particularly in Prunotto’s Bussia, Oddero and Massolino’s Vignarionda, and Paolo Scavino’s Rocche dell’Annunziata.

‘Riserva should be a wine that has complexity, structure, tannins and a sophisticated bouquet with excellent potential for ageing,’ explaind Claudio Fenocchio, who makes a parcel selection from holdings in Bussia. His 2019 Riserva delivers on all these fronts.

Bold decisions

Never one to shy away from bold decisions, Roberto Conterno bottled his entire production from Francia and Arione exclusively as Riserva for the estate’s iconic Monfortino label. It epitomises the Riserva spirit.

It also comes at a lofty price, which is a significant factor when considering Riserva. As the annata bottlings already deliver a lot, I am focusing on just the most singular Riserva in 2019. To the ones mentioned above, I would add Elvio Cogno’s brilliantly poised and evocative Vigna Elena.

Most Riserva 2019 will benefit from more time, with an average drinking window of 15 years, though a few propose near-term accessibility. A select handful are built for a solid couple of decades.

What Barolo Riserva 2019 to drink when

Green light: Over the next 10 years

Fontanafredda, Barolo Riserva: This classic blend of historic vineyards is settling into its groove.

Mauro Veglio, Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata: Barrique ageing has already softened the tannins in this seductively styled Riserva.

Grimaldi Giacomo, Barolo Riserva Le Coste: The family’s elegant flagship bottling has recently been upgraded to Riserva.

Yellow light: No rush, enjoy over the next 15 years

Prunotto, Vigna Colonnello, Barolo Riserva Bussia: Personality wins over sheer force, but this is not lacking in backbone.

Brezza, Vigna Bricco, Barolo Sarmassa: Mature though not tertiary in nuances while steely tannins have yet to yield.

Elio Grasso, Rüncot, Barolo Riserva: Uber-concentrated and vigorous, this needs a ton of time and may even make it into the 20-year club.

The 20-year club

Oddero, Barolo Riserva Vignarionda: Properly austere without being severe, it is a masterful example of vintage and site.

Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino Barolo Riserva: Powerfully sculpted, this will require years to reveal its underlying finesse.

Elio Altare, Vigna Bricco, Barolo Cerretta: The innate balance is already palpable here, promising harmonious ageing.

Barolo Riserva 2019: Michaela’s 25 recommendations

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The 2021 Barolo vintage has arrived, and it’s making waves. Tastings reveal a vintage of striking character, ripe fruit, and formidable structure, hinting at impressive longevity. But some wines miss the mark, highlighting the vintage’s nuanced complexity.

Certain communes shine, while others deliver mixed results. Discover which regions and specific vineyards are producing the most compelling wines, and which to approach with caution. Is this a vintage for immediate enjoyment, or one to cellar for decades?

This comprehensive report delves into the details, from the unique weather patterns that shaped the vintage to the individual triumphs and challenges faced by producers. Which rising stars and established estates are crafting the most exciting Barolos?

And will 2021 truly stand the test of time, or is the hype premature? Uncover the secrets of this captivating vintage and navigate the world of 2021 Barolo with expert insights.

In this article:

• Barolo 2021 vintage rating
• Wine of the vintage
• Barolo 2021: Commune by commune
• Assessing Barolo 2021
• What Barolo 2021 to drink when
• The 2021 vintage in detail
• Barolo 2021: The top scorers
• Plus: 160 recommended wines with tasting notes & scores

Barolo 2021 vintage rating: 5/5

After a spring frost brought localised damage, the summer was hot and dry. Winter water reserves and cooler temperatures at night helped mitigate stress. A late harvest yielded charismatic yet well structured wines with great ageing potential.

Top-scoring Barolo 2021 wines are listed below

Introducing the 2021s

I had the pleasure of tasting over 300 Barolo 2021 and was impressed by the striking charisma of the vintage.

Many wines are already expressive, exuberant even. The fruit character is mature but not tertiary or overripe, and the wines are not developing too rapidly.

While aromas are animated, the structure says ‘wait’. Rather than the nervous energy or austerity of 2019, the 2021s are imposing and impactful.

It is a vintage of substance and volume with ample, ripe tannins. Alcohol is well absorbed and acidity admirably preserved.

There is a lot there; except when there isn’t. Some wines showed surprisingly lean, not always explained by a cooler site. Perhaps these were picked earlier or reflect vinification style.

At the other extreme, a few were heavy-handed. The least successful struggled with issues like volatile acidity (VA).

At a handful of estates, I tasted 2021 alongside 2020. It’s a shame that the former vintage will overshadow the latter, as in certain cases I preferred the harmonious, finer framed and vibrant 2020s.

Hopefully, Barolo aficionados can find room for both in their cellars.

Maria Teresa Mascarello is among those who make a parallel between the last three releases and their corresponding counterparts of 1999, 2000 and 2001.

‘However, climate and how the wines taste are two different things’, she emphasises.

I recall tasting the 2001s upon release and indeed recognise a similarly captivating yet commanding character in the 2021s. Will 2021 live up to that highly touted year?

Wine of the vintage

Sara Vezza, Persiera, Barolo Castelletto 2021: Singling out just one wine seemed impossible at first, but after considering what stood out in 2021, it had to be from Monforte d’Alba.

The Castelletto MGA impressed with numerous examples, and as I believe 2021 is a great vintage to seek out lesser-known estates, the choice soon became easy.

Sara Vezza’s Persiera charmed me in the blind tasting, and above all, it is much improved – less heavy and oak-laden, with a spring in its step. Brava!

Barolo 2021: Commune by commune

Made for Monforte d’Alba

Above all, the vintage seems made for Monforte d’Alba. Balanced in their volume, the wines from this township wear their bigger frames effortlessly. Unsurprisingly, many recommendations hail from the large but consistently outstanding Bussia MGA.

Besides top picks such as Aldo Conterno’s Colonnello and Giuseppe Rinaldi’s bottling, the lesser-known Cascina Amalia and Marrone are worth seeking out. The revered sites of Mosconi and Ginestra in Monforte also shine in 2021.

Prime examples are E Pira & Figli’s’ Mosconi and Domenico Clerico’s Ciabot Mentin Ginestra.

If I had to choose one up-and-coming MGA in 2021, it would be Monforte’s Castelletto, a cooler zone incorporating eastern exposures.

GB Burlotto’s newest bottling has garnered attention for the MGA, but 2021 offers many convincing efforts including those from Sara Vezza and Fortemasso.

The ‘runner up’ would be Le Coste di Monforte thanks to rising stars like Lalù and Diego Conterno.

Serralunga and La Morra

Serralunga d’Alba boasts a strong showing in 2021 beyond the iconic monopolies of Bruno Giacosa’s Falletto and Giacomo Conterno’s Francia. Outstanding wines can be found throughout its numerous MGAs, with Cerretta a virtual treasure trove: Azelia and Ettore Germano’s bottlings are just two gems there.

The township also features the region’s largest number of village bottlings, identified on the label as ‘Comune di Serralunga d’Alba’. Quality and philosophies vary but in 2021, these provide a great source for value as exemplified by Palladino, Mauro Veglio and Fontanafredda.

Barolo’s most prolific commune, La Morra is uneven in 2021 – as it often is – yet delivers more pleasant surprises than letdowns. Some (for example, Trediberri’s Rocche dell’Annunziata) are fully charged, while others (Dosio’s village bottling) capture the finesse typically associated with La Morra.

Long considered a ‘grand cru’, Brunate – which spills into the township of Barolo – is among the vintage’s triumphs. Oddero should be singled out, not just for its Brunate but for the estate’s stunning wines across the entire range.

La Morra also lays claim to one of the denomination’s most exciting newcomers, Carlo Revello.

Barolo to Verduno

As for the Barolo township, it is perhaps the most disappointing. In the heart of the region with many lower, well protected sites, it feels the warmth more acutely.

Cannubi yielded mixed results, with fantastic bottlings from Elio Altare and Brezza but others that did not live up to this hallowed hill’s reputation. Even the cool, higher altitude Bricco delle Viole showed more richness and substance than usual, though GD Vajra managed this site deftly.

In the relatively small Castiglione Falletto township, the alliance of elegance and power is magnificently embodied by Ceretto’s Bricco Rocche, Paolo Scavino’s Bric del Fiasc, and Giacomo Fenocchio’s Villero.

From Novello, an even smaller set of wines was centered around Ravera. I include this fresher zone in the vintage’s highlights. In addition to superstars Elvio Cogno and Vietti, solid efforts from Marengo Mauro and Abrigo Fratelli only serve to strengthen Ravera’s growing esteem.

Similarly, in Verduno, the best wines came from Monvigliero, with GB Burlotto’s bottling taking my top score of the vintage so far, however they – along with Castello di Verduno and Diego Morra – also propose lovely village-level Barolo.

Assessing Barolo 2021

One of the markers of an outstanding vintage is high quality throughout the region. The Albeisa Consorzio’s blind tastings organised by commune gave insight into how each township performed, whereas estate visits afforded side-by-side comparisons of diverse MGAs made by the same hand.

Another factor in assessing Barolo is ageability. In general, the 2021s are well endowed with stuffing and structure for cellaring, without the hard tannins of the past.

I believe most will reveal more of their intricacies with time: some will be at their best over the next seven to 10 years – others deserve longer – with the top wines suggesting a couple of decades.

The question remains whether the 2021 Barolo will have the longevity of classic vintages of the last century. I look forward to following 2021 as it evolves.

One of the beauties of this vintage is that the wines should satisfy throughout, allowing drinkers to open them according to personal preference.

Overall, 2021 is absolutely an excellent vintage. While it may not reach the exquisite level of refinement as 2016, it is undeniably worth buying.

Furthermore, as prices for the region’s top estates soar, it is a good year to seek out under-the-radar producers.

I would not dream of describing 2021 as a ‘classic vintage’, however, it does have the potential to be considered a modern benchmark in this warming climate.

What Barolo 2021 to drink when

Green light: Now and up to 10 years

Dosio, Barolo del Comune di La Morra: Improvements in the cellar plus cool heights give a bright and brisk Barolo.

Piazzo comm. Armando, Valente, Barolo: A vibrant, generous and supple offering from Novello with immediate appeal.

Luigi Einaudi, Ludo, Barolo: Young vines and a lightness of touch make for an elegantly approachable bottling.

Figli Luigi Oddero, Barolo: Tempting now but boasts sufficient backbone for a decade.

Diego Morra, Barolo Monvigliero: Ready to dole out Monvigliero’s charms over the next 10 years.

Yellow light: No rush, 15+ years

Diego Conterno, Barolo Le Coste di Monforte: A superb introduction to this cool MGA, but wait a couple of years before diving in.

Marcarini, Barolo La Serra: While this is already beautifully forthcoming, structure will carry it for the next 15 years.

ArnaldoRivera, Barolo Vignarionda: An excellent (and well priced) interpretation of this hallowed site including its ability to age.

Borgogno, Barolo Liste: This has come together nicely but I’d still give those tannins a bit more time.

Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo Villero: A stunning wine that will reward immensely with a bit of patience.

Cellaring required: 20+ years

Ceretto, Barolo Bricco Rocche: Lovely balletic precision with toned muscles for the long haul.

Domenico Clerico, Ciabot Mentin, Barolo Ginestra: Sturdy but promises to age more gracefully than past examples.

Aldo Conterno, Colonnello, Barolo Bussia: I won’t even think about touching this for the next 10 years.

Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Falletto: Innate refinement is already evident here but delaying gratification will vastly improve enjoyment.

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Francia: Simmering slowly and best left alone for now.

2021 vintage conditions

‘Nature pulled a rabbit out of the hat and let us make something decent in 2021,’ states Alan Manley at Margherita Otto. Better than decent, the 2021 vintage yielded a surfeit of great Barolo, though it wasn’t without challenges.

It began auspiciously with repeated snowfall in December and January – the last significant flurries that the Langhe has seen. Ski aficionados such as Fabio Alessandria and Gianluca Grasso remember this clearly because resorts were closed due to Covid restrictions.

Accompanying sub-zero temperatures enhanced the benefits. ‘The snow froze and remained for a couple weeks, allowing water to penetrate deep into the ground,’ explains Emanuele Jori at Bartolo Mascarello.

After falling to -6°C in mid-February, temperatures shot up. ‘On February 25th, it reached 21°C and March remained warm’, continues Jori. Nascent buds were therefore in full development when it dropped below freezing again between 7-8 April.

While Barolo’s hillside vineyards are reasonably safeguarded from frost, currents pushed the cold air upwards. ‘Damage reached almost 300 metres, which even old-timers had never seen’, says Alessandro Veglio at Mauro Veglio.

Localised rather than widespread, frost nonetheless hit certain producers considerably hard. Brovia calculates 50% loss of Garblèt Sue’ in the Altenasso MGA, while Bartolo Mascarello reports damage in prime parcels of Cannubi and Rocche dell’Annunziata.

At the Giuseppe Rinaldi estate, ‘we eventually had to replant 70% of our Brunate’, Marta Rinaldi explains, as the vines simply didn’t recover.

Frost to drought

After a cooler May which delayed flowering and slowed vine growth, summer was hot and arid. July saw occasional sprinkles but barely a drop fell in August. Heat was a greater concern than water stress thanks to reserves built up in the winter.

‘The challenge was keeping the vines in balance’, says Nicolas Oddero at Trediberri. Reprieve came in mid-September, when modest showers brought temperatures down, particularly at night.

Harvest began in the last week of September, although according to Alessandro Masnaghetti of Enogea, who collects data from almost 200 estates, the average start date was 7 October – many producers chose to wait until after the forecasted showers of 4 October.

Azelia’s Lorenzo Scavino describes the harvest as calm. ‘We could pick in the rhythm and order we wanted.’

The result was small, healthy grapes rich in polyphenols. ‘You could bounce the bunches’, recalls Erik Revello at Carlo Revello, who credits significant diurnal temperature excursions with giving elasticity to the skins.

The quality and structure of the berries was maximised by those producers who favour long macerations.

Several winemakers noted slower fermentations. Giuseppe Vaira at GD Vajra attributes this to low soil nitrogen associated with the dry summer.

‘For some, this is bad news, but we like long fermentations,’ he declares.

Alessandro Veglio admits he was concerned about a potential increase in volatile acidity. ‘Thankfully, it just gave the wines extra richness.’

Barolo 2021: The top scorers

View all 160 recommended Barolo 2021 wines from the report

Updated 26/3/2025: 21 additional tasting notes added

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Related articles

• Barolo 2021: Top value picks
• Barolo Riserva 2019: Morris’ 25 top picks
• Barbaresco 2022 vintage: The hot vintage paradox & pick of the 2020 Riservas

A strong run of vintages makes this a fascinating time to delve deeper into the Nebbiolo strongholds of Barolo and Barbaresco in Piedmont’s rolling hills, where style icons and hidden gems alike offer riches for collectors at all levels.

Piedmont is sometimes described as Italy’s answer to Burgundy, but producers’ masterful work with Nebbiolo in the Langhe hills deserves its own plinth.

What’s more, there is talk of 2019, 2020 and 2021 forming an alluring trilogy, with 2021 as its shining capstone.

A downloadable PDF version of the Collector’s Guide: Piedmont is available here

Some renowned Barolo and Barbaresco ‘cru’ wines are produced in very small quantities and prices can be correspondingly high on the secondary market.

More broadly, though, Piedmont represents a source of relative value for fine wine collectors.

This updated guide focuses mainly on Barolo and Barbaresco, drawing on new data and exclusive reporting for Decanter Premium subscribers to deliver an introductory guide to top names, vintages and recent fine wine market performance.

The Burgundy of Italy?

Creative tension between tradition and modernity has at times boiled over in Piedmont, as witnessed by the so-called ‘Barolo wars’.

Bartolo Mascarello’s famous ‘No barrique, No Berlusconi’ 1998-vintage label epitomised one traditionalist view, alongside a separate political stance.

‘Tensions have eased in recent years as prosperity and compromise have prevailed,’ wrote Tiziano Gaia for Decanter in 2019.

Piedmont’s climatic diversity and the rise of single-vineyard ‘cru’ wines, alongside prized multi-commune blends, have helped to foster comparisons with Burgundy – even though Nebbiolo differs stylistically to Pinot Noir.

While Barolo and Barbaresco sit atop Italy’s wine classification pyramid, with DOCG status, many top sites are further showcased via ‘MGAs’ – Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva.

There is no premier or grand cru hierarchy, but magic certainly happens when top producers and sites combine.

Michaela Morris, Decanter Italy expert, recently named Giuseppe Mascarello, ‘Monprivato’ Barolo 2006 among her top 10 wines of 2024.

She wrote: ‘It captures both greatness of site and singularity of producer, simply haunting in its exquisitely defined nuances of hazelnut, incense, sweet herbs, raspberry tea and truffles. Fluid and racy with crisp acidity, its long-chained, textured tannins caress the mouth.’ (Score: 98pts).

Barolo and Barbaresco: Prominent producers and wines

Some producers are known for making great wines in both Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs.

‘Bruno Giacosa’s red-label wines are among the world’s most collectible,’ wrote Morris in a guide to Piedmont reds.

‘The Asili Riserva Barbaresco stands on equal footing with the Falletto Vigna Le Rocche Riserva Barolo.’

Wine Searcher’s 10 most searched-for Barolo wines, as of February 2025, were:

• Giacomo Conterno, ‘Monfortino’ Riserva
• Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo
• Giacomo Conterno, ‘Francia’
• GB Burlotto, ‘Monvigliero’
• Gaja, ‘Sperss’
• Bruno Giacosa, ‘Falletto Vigna Le Rocche’
• Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio, ‘Monprivato’
• Luciano Sandrone, ‘Le Vigne’
• Luciano Sandrone, ‘Aleste’
• Giuseppe Rinaldi, ‘Brunate’

Wine-Searcher’s five most popular Barbaresco wines were:

• Gaja, Barbaresco.
• Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco.
• Gaja, ‘Sorì San Lorenzo’
• Roagna, ‘Crichët Pajé’
• Bruno Giacosa, ‘Asili’ Riserva.

Other top Barolo producers include:

Vietti

Pio Cesare

Aldo Conterno

Renato Ratti

Marchesi di Barolo

Cappellano

Giacomo Borgogno

Elio Grasso

Fontanafredda

Massolino

E. Pira & Figli

Ceretto

Paolo Scavino

Brovia

Elio Altare

Roberto Voerzio

Elvio Cogno

GD Vajra

Giacomo Fenocchio

Other top Barbaresco producers include:

La Spinetta

Giuseppe Cortese

Albino Rocca

Ca’ del Baio

Bruno Rocca

Castello di Neive

New generations

Several prestigious estates have been run by the ‘next’ generation for some time; Maria Teresa Mascarello, Bruna Giacosa and Roberto [Giacomo] Conterno head their namesake wineries, for instance.

Another trailblazer, Angelo Gaja, has been joined by his daughters, Gaia and Rossana, and son, Giovanni, as reported in the 2020 edition of this Collector’s Guide.

Aldo Fiordelli reviewed Giuseppe Rinaldi’s Brunate 2019 for Decanter, awarding it 100-points and noting it’s the first vintage ‘fully tended by Carlotta and Marta, following their father, Beppe Rinaldi’s death’.

He added: ‘Typically blended with 15% of the Le Coste MGA for an acid drive, its southern exposure seems to be beneficial in this austere vintage.’

Three newer projects to watch

Luca Currado and Elena Penna aren’t exactly ‘new’ names, having sold Vietti to the US-based Krause family in 2016. However, they stopped managing Vietti in 2023 to pursue their own project, under the Cascina Penna-Currado name.

In January 2024, Decanter’s Morris highlighted up-and-coming names making a range of wines across Piedmont, including Australian-born David Fletcher in Barbaresco.

Morris also mentioned ‘Lalù’, with owners Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala producing Langhe Nebbiolo and ‘a convincing first Barolo from Le Coste di Monforte’.

Decanter Wine Legend: Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino, Barolo 1978

Cantina Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva bottling is a Nebbiolo icon and isn’t produced in every vintage.

‘This was an outstanding year,’ wrote Decanter contributing editor Stephen Brook of the Monfortino 1978, which was the first iteration of the wine sourced entirely from Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga.

Average price today: $5,409 per bottle*

*Wine-Searcher global average retail price per 75cl bottle, ex-tax.

Two more Decanter Wine Legends to seek out:

• Bruno Giacosa, Asili, Barbaresco Riserva 2004
• Gaja, Barbaresco 2001

Piedmont 2021: Vintage of the gods?

Nebbiolo has been on a good run of form in this enclave of northern Italy. There is particular excitement about Barolo’s class of 2021, with the first wines due to be released this year (2025).

With 2019 regarded as a five-star year and 2020 also well-rated, this feels like a fine time to be exploring Piedmont.

In the trade, anticipation for the 2021s is right up there with superstar years like 2016 or 2010.

‘Truly for Nebbiolo, [2021] is the vintage of the gods for consumers and collectors,’ said Brett Fleming, MD of UK-based merchant Armit Wines, which represents several producers, including Giacomo Fenocchio, Roagna and Bruno Giacosa.

Fleming noted that it was a hot and dry summer, followed by late-season rain that refreshed the vineyards.

‘The resulting wines are simply outstanding and in my 35-plus years of travelling vineyards, I have not seen anything like 2021,’ he declared.

Down through history: Six five-star years to know

It’s inevitably hard to generalise about such things as ‘the best’ vintage.

Top producers invariably make good wines year-in, year-out, and each growing season also yields its challenges and stylistic nuance.

Nevertheless, looking further back, here are six, five-star Piedmont vintages identified by Decanter contributing editor Stephen Brook in 2021:

2016

2010

2006

2001

1996

1990

Michaela Morris recently gave five stars to 2008 in her review of Barolo vintages in the ‘noughties’, giving this the edge over 2006.

Both 2015 and 2013 are also highly regarded.

‘The 2013 vintage has often struck me as a turning point for [Barbaresco],’ wrote Morris in a retrospective tasting for Decanter Premium, published in January 2024.

‘It started to usher in a young generation and new labels. Furthermore, with 2013, Gaja returned to the Barbaresco fold with the estate’s cru wines [Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn, Costa Russi], and Bruno Giacosa began producing a Rabajà bottling again.’

Release schedules

There is no fixed en primeur release period and winery schedules vary. Minimum ageing requirements run from 1 November after harvest:

Barolo: 38 months (62 months for Riservas), including 18 months in wood.

Barbaresco: 26 months (50 months for Riservas), including nine months in wood.

Some wines are aged longer prior to release and this may vary by vintage. In 2022, Aldo Fiordelli reviewed the 2013 vintage of Roagna’s Crichët Pajé Barbaresco for Decanter (97pts), noting that this vaunted wine is aged for eight years, including four in oak.

UK-based Armit Wines represents Roagna and Bruno Giacosa, and said it normally offers new releases in September and November respectively. It cautioned that its schedule wasn’t yet fixed for 2025, however.

Monfortino update

Merchant Corney & Barrow represents Roberto Conterno’s wines in the UK, tending to launch offers in October. It said recently that Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino Riserva 2019 (98pts, Decanter) should be released in 2025.

It is the first Monfortino since the 2015 vintage, none being made over the course of 2016-2018.

The 2015, initially offered by C&B in 2021 at £1,995 (3x75cl in bond), was the first to contain fruit from the Arione vineyard, acquired by Roberto Conterno earlier that same year, in addition to parcels of Francia.

In October last year, C&B suggested production for Monfortino 2019 was likely to be above the average.

‘[It] will include all the fruit (for Barolo) from both Francia and Arione,’ the merchant said.

Hunting for value in Piedmont

‘Italy produces an incredible array of wines with a high quality to price ratio from both Piedmont and Tuscany, not forgetting other less famous regions, too,’ said Miles Davis, market expert at merchant Vinum Fine Wines in his February 2025 market report.

Savvy collectors and drinkers are tuning in to the opportunities on offer.

Will Hargrove, head of fine wine at Corney & Barrow, said: ‘We have increasingly found that Piedmont is something people want to do. The wines are better made than they’ve ever been.’

He also said release prices have continued to be relatively consistent, a few exceptions aside.

It’s worth trying different bottlings from producers to find styles that delight you most. Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco DOCG, the rising quality (and lower entry cost) of Langhe Nebbiolo can also offer valuable insights into a particular producer’s style.

Roero DOCG across the Tanaro river and also the Alto Piemonte area, including Gattinara DOCG, are well worth exploring, as Michaela Morris explains in her 2023 guide: Get to know Piedmont red wines in three easy steps.

Piedmont is, of course, so much more than Nebbiolo, with fascinating reds made from Barbera and Dolcetto, plus top whites produced with Timorasso and Arneis – to name a few.

Three ‘Value’ Nebbiolo wines under $50*

Antoniolo, Riserva, Gattinara 2017

96pts | $48

Lorella Zoppis Antoniolo normally releases around 20,000 bottles of this Riserva. ‘The attack is relaxing and refined, with firm, dusty, velvety tannins and crisp acidity.’ Aldo Fiordelli.

Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco 2020

94pts | $42

‘Here we have the cooperative of Barbaresco and one known as producing some of the best-priced quality wines in all of Langhe.’ Aldo Fiordelli.

Azelia, Barolo 2019

92pts | $47

‘From 5.5 hectares in Castiglione Falletto…Good concentration for a village Barolo, and one of the greatest price-quality ratios.’ Aldo Fiordelli.

*Wine-Searcher global average retail price per 75cl, ex-tax

Piedmont on the secondary market

Even the most famous Piedmont wines generally compare favourably on price to the top grand cru names of Burgundy.

Piedmont does have a secondary market presence, albeit not to the extent of juggernauts like Burgundy or Bordeaux. Prestige Champagne and Super Tuscans have also grabbed more secondary market share in recent years.

Auction house Zachys listed Piedmont as its fifth best-selling region in terms of sales value in 2024 (see chart below).

Sales realised from Piedmont wines hit nearly $2.1m, out of total wine and spirits auction sales for the year of $63.5m.

Low liquidity

Generally speaking, Piedmont is not a leading force on the secondary market, although top vintages of renowned labels can appreciate in value over the long-term.

Vinum Fine Wines’ Miles Davis said Piedmont is ‘not particularly liquid’ on the secondary market, partly due to small production volumes of individual top wines.

There is also a feeling that many collectors buy wines on release to cellar them and drink them, rather than trade them.

But the pure-investor’s loss is to the collector’s gain, as these wines – while certainly not ‘cheap’ – have not reached price-levels that elicit universal lamentation.

Top-tier Piedmont price performance

Data from Wine-Searcher and Liv-ex suggests a mixed price performance for some of Piedmont’s top-tier wines in recent years.

As a broad guide, the following table shows how average global retail prices for five top names have changed on Wine-Searcher since February 2020.

GB Burlotto is the standout name on this list, although the performance of some other labels is comparable over a longer, 10-year, period.

Wine-Searcher average prices for Conterno’s Monfortino and Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo have more than doubled since early 2015, for instance. Prices will inevitably vary by vintage, and also by market, however.

Piedmont in a sedate fine wine market

Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, tracks prices of both Piedmont and Tuscan wines in its Italy 100 index.

Data supplied to Decanter for this report shows how the Tuscan segment has outperformed its Piedmont counterpart in the last five years.

Chart title: Piedmont vs Tuscany on the Liv-ex Italy 100 index

A boom period on the fine wine secondary market, particularly between 2020 and late 2022, has given way to more subdued activity in the past 24 months.

Higher interest rates and global political and economic uncertainty have been cited as contributing factors to the current malaise.

Prices have fallen back, albeit previous gains have not been entirely eroded in all segments, as frequently reported by Decanter magazine’s Market Watch segment.

Liv-ex’s Italy 100 has been notable for its relative resilience versus other regional indices; it dropped 10.3% in two years to 31 January 2025, while the broad-based Liv-ex 1000 index fell 23.8%.

Yet, the chart above indicates that Piedmont has suffered to a greater extent than top-tier Tuscany (i.e. Super Tuscan wines) – and also didn’t rise by as much in the prior upturn.

There are always exceptions to general trends. Going beyond the Italy 100 index, Liv-ex said prices on some individual Piedmont wines have risen over the past 12 months, while others have fallen sharply.

Liv-ex risers and fallers over 12 months

Prices refer to Liv-ex Market Price, calculated in pounds sterling and calibrated to 12x75cl in bond. Percentage figures are rounded to the nearest whole number.

However, Piedmont’s relatively low liquidity – as previously mentioned – must be taken into account.

None of the wines featured above were among the five most-traded Piedmont wines on Liv-ex in the past year, in value terms.

These were:

• Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino Riserva | 9.3% of Piedmont trade value
• Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo | 6.1%
• Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Francia | 3.8%
• Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco | 3.2%
• Gaja, Barbaresco | 2.8%

What next for the market?

While the fine wine market has a track record of long-term value growth, views were mixed on the nearer-term outlook.

A global survey in late 2024 by consultancy group Wine Lister found one quarter of CEOs and wine department heads expected the wine market to pick up again in 2025, but 49% of respondents said this won’t happen until 2026, and 26% said it would take until 2027 or later.

In the meantime, there could be opportunities for buyers still interested in finding gems for their cellars.

Vinum Fine Wines’ Davis said in January that ‘prestige mature Piedmont’ was one of several things to look out for in 2025.

Given the high anticipation surrounding 2019, 2020 and 2021 as a potential trilogy of very good-to-great vintages in Piedmont, it will be interesting to see how the region’s market context develops in the next few years.

Wine investment: Six things to consider

1. Some of the most prominent fine wines on the secondary market have a track record of increasing in value over time, particularly as available supplies diminish, but nothing is guaranteed. The pool of investment-grade wines is also relatively small.

2. Professional storage in bond is considered important. A wine’s condition and provenance can affect value.

3. Wine investment is unregulated. Only buy wine from reputable sources, and check provenance and condition as carefully as possible before buying.

4. Factor in costs, such as for storage, and possible selling fees. Storage is often charged at a fixed annual rate.

5. Some auction houses have previously told Decanter that full cases tend to be more in-demand, although limited-production wines may be released or allocated in smaller quantities – such as three-bottle cases.

6. If unsure, always seek professional advice.

Report by Chris Mercer for Decanter Premium. A freelance journalist and former editor of Decanter.com, Chris has written about the global fine wine market for more than a decade

Click here to join Decanter Premium now and enjoy instant access to the latest Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur Collector’s guide, as well as past Collector’s Guide’s including, Left Bank Bordeaux, Napa, Burgundy and the Rhône.

Disclaimer

Please note that this report has been published purely for informational purposes and does not constitute financial or investment advice. The report includes Wine-Searcher monthly global average retail prices in US$ to provide a consistent point of comparison, as well as data and opinion from other trade sources. All of this information is subject to change, and the prices and availability of wines cited will vary between countries, currencies and retailers. Decanter and the editorial team behind this report do not accept liability for the ongoing accuracy of its contents. Seek independent and professional advice where necessary and be aware that wine investment is unregulated in several markets. Please be aware that prices can go down as well as up.

Related articles

• Collector’s guide: Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur
• Collector’s Guide: Right Bank Bordeaux
• Collector’s Guide: Left Bank Bordeaux
• Collector’s guide: The rise of Piedmont
• Collector’s guide: Napa Valley wine

Piedmont, in Italy’s northwest, is a prolific source of high-quality, distinctive wines, boasting more than 20 of its own grape varieties that reflect the region’s rich diversity.

As one of Italy’s vinous powerhouses, Piedmont consistently excels at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), showcasing not only its iconic wines but also its expanding scope.

Nebbiolo, the region’s most highly reputed variety, is synonymous with the prestigious denominations of Barolo and Barbaresco. However, Piedmont’s distinction extends beyond Nebbiolo, with indigenous varieties such as the white Timorasso and red Grignolino offering some of its most exciting wines today.

Notably, Grignolino made its debut in the demanding DWWA 2024 Gold medal category, while Timorasso secured a second consecutive appearance.

Scroll down to discover 15 top-awarded wines to try from Piedmont

Piedmont’s versatility extends to style, too. Asti DOCG, produced entirely from Moscato Bianco, is globally recognised for its aromatic, lightly fizzy and sparkling wines, with top Moscato d’Asti wines among the finest pairings for desserts.

Discover below a selection of Piedmont’s top-scoring wines from the 2024 competition, representing only a partial selection of the region’s diverse grape varieties, styles and appellations – both familiar and new. Explore more at awards.decanter.com

Top Piedmont performers

Broccardo, Bricco San Pietro, Barolo 2020

97 Best in Show

US$39 Binny’s

You can read the tempered heat of the 2020 summer in the vibrant, clearly defined fruits – plum, raspberry, pomegranate – lifting effortlessly from the glass. Cool alpine air in September ensured the hang time to bring clean, firm lines of soft tannin and supple acidity which marble the fruits on the back palate. It would make the perfect wine to show any Pinot-loving friends yet to be won over to the joys of Nebbiolo in its marly home soils. Alc 14.5%

Monchiero, Montanello, Barolo 2020

97 Best in Show

POA £ Cépage

The ‘lockdown’ vintage of 2020 was a propitious one for those who enjoy classicism, delicacy and proportion in their Barolo. This is genuinely fragrant, with scent layers of strawberry, pomegranate, rose and rosehip. The wine floods the mouth with intense fruit and floral flavours, transforming as you grow aware of the defining tannins and curranty acidity, then earth, humus and mushroom. Remarkable force of personality, yet in a gentle style. Alc 14%

Moscato d’Asti

Cascina Pian d’Or, Bricco Riella 2023

95 Value Gold

US$12-$15 Binny’s, Wine Cellars of Annapolis

Yellow grapefruit and sweet lemon peel percolate through this wine’s gentle fizz, with an unctuous, rounded texture and a piquant white pepper finish. Alc 5%

Colli Tortonesi

Cantine Volpi, Cascina La Zerba di Volpedo Timorasso Derthona 2022

95 Gold

£22 The Great Wine Co

Exuberant ripe peach, apricot and pineapple with a persistent mineral backbone. Very firm and compact with alluringly austere acidity and a lipsmacking chalky grip. Enchanting. Alc 14%

La Colombera, Santa Croce Timorasso 2022

95 Gold

info@lacolomberavini.it

Enthralling aromas of apple, honeyed stone fruit, hazelnut and flint. Full and voluptuous with a buttery texture, yet steely and vertical with zesty acidity. Sublime. Alc 14%

Barbera d’Asti

Emanuele Gambino, Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2020

97 Platinum

emanuelegambino.com

Cherry, blackberry and plum fruit over aromatic layers of Mediterranean herbs and earthy violets. Shining with energy and freshness, the lively pomegranate acidity and lush-textured tannins ramble towards a tangy finish. Alc 15%

Negro Maria Luigina, Gemma, Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2022

95 Value Gold

negromarialuigina.com

Glorious ripe cherries entwined with subtle vanilla characters. Delightfully verdant and fresh with robust tannins, bristling acidity and a bitter tarry twist on the finish. Alc 14.5%

Grignolino

Vinchio Vaglio, Le Nocche 2022

95 Value Gold

vinchio.com

Bounteous redcurrants, strawberries and cherries flourish alongside silky tannins and juicy acidity. Incredibly fresh and fluid with an attractive nip of pepper at the end. Alc 13%

Barbaresco

Castello di Neive, Santo Stefano, Albesani 2021

97 Platinum

£75-£80 FortyFive10°, Vinexus

Wonderful ripe raspberry aromas perfectly aligned with elegant spice and fragrant herbs. Deeply concentrated and compact with velveteen tannins, finely tuned acidity and very long, vanilla oak finish. Emanates grandeur. Alc 14.5%

Piazzo Comm Armando, Pajorè 2021

96 Gold

piazzo.it

A disarming purity of red fruit with a subtle array of chalky minerals and tobacco, furnished with fine, papery tannins, sleek acidity and an impressive persistence. Alc 14.5%

Barolo

Fontanafredda, Vigna La Delizia, Lazzarito 2020

97 Platinum

fontanafredda.it

Generous and stylish with rose petals, dried strawberries, spiced cranberries and tar, as well as a beguiling top note of orange zest. Impeccably focused with teasingly fine acidity, tucked-in tannins and a long, spiced finish. Alc 15%

Josetta Saffirio, Perno 2019

97 Platinum

josettasaffirio.com

Still in its infancy with spectacular flavours of ripe strawberry, pomegranate and fig which dance gracefully over a brooding soy and chestnut crunch. Superb tension of brisk acidity and architectural tannins, with a lingering perfume. Alc 14.5%

Damilano, Cannubi 2020

96 Gold

£97 Zonin UK, US$99 Winebow

Simmering with decadent sweet fruit and oaky nuances. Full of pep and drive with a crisp tannic backbone and cool, elegant acidity. Lengthy and moreish. Alc 14.5%

Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Monvigliero 2020

96 Gold

£47-£51.33 (ib) Crop & Vine, Jeroboams, Vinum Fine Wines, US$81-$111 Saratoga Wine Exchange, Wine Chateau, Wine.com

Captivating notes of coffee, leather, earth and tar with flecks of sweet cinnamon and allspice, supple tannins and zesty acidity, all culminating in a graphite finale. Alc 14.5%

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

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• Timorasso: Piedmont’s new flagship white?
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From 9/11 and Barack Obama to the rise of social media with the birth of YouTube, Facebook and Twitter, the first decade of the new millennium saw the world entering a new, for-better-or-for-worse era.

The James Cameron movie Avatar (2009) allegorised numerous themes of the day; Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth (2006) elucidated climate change concerns specifically; and dark-horse film Sideways (2004) had a lasting impact on wine, most notably in the US.

In Barolo, northwest Italy, the Noughties represented a coming of age as the region emerged from a sometimes awkward but ultimately beneficial experimental phase in its production characterised by the use of barriques, rotary fermenters and short maceration times.

As the decade progressed, the ‘modern versus traditional’ debate became outdated as the divide between the two schools of winemaking thought blurred.

As the late, great Nicolas Belfrage MW pointed out in the 2004 edition of his Barolo to Valpolicella book: ‘The majority of producers today, including some of the greatest, tend to settle for a middle of the road between the two extremes.’

Scroll down for Michaela Morris’ Barolo highlights from 2000-2009

Formative period

With better-quality, cleaner wines, Barolo gained traction globally thanks to lauded vintages like 2001 and 2004.

And, as prices were already soaring for the three ‘big Gs’ – Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa and Gaja – aficionados started seeking out treasures among (then) lesser-known estates such as Cavallotto, GD Vajra and GB Burlotto: all highly regarded today.

Barolo went through an enormous growth spurt as planted area increased by more than 40% during the decade to 1,880ha in 2010, according to the regional consorzio’s technical director Emanuele Coraglia.

It was also during this time that the final groundwork was laid for the denomination’s MGAs (menzione geografica aggiuntiva: delimited production zones comparable to a climat in France), which were officially introduced with the 2010 vintage.

The Noughties weren’t without their bumps in the road, as the effects of climate change became undeniable and the decade concluded with the 2008 global financial crisis and resulting economic recession. Barolo, however, managed to weather these and has continued its steady rise.

2000 – 3.5/5

After the intensity of the 1999 build-up to ‘Y2K’, the uneventful start to the new millennium was almost a let-down. Likewise, Barolo’s 2000 vintage was perhaps overhyped. The region experienced record temperatures in August and the wines were shaped by the heat that lasted until midSeptember.

On my inaugural trip to Barolo in 2004, the nascent 2000s seduced with a sweetness of fruit and rich, full structure.

Today, the most successful show mature but not necessarily overripe aromas and are still vigorous. Others have disappointed, with oxidised fruit punished by massive tannins suggesting miscalculated winemaking.

Nevertheless, Chiara Boschis’ Cannubi defies any judgement that wines of the so-called modernists can’t age harmoniously. Towards the opposite end of spectrum, Cappellano’s Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris (US$550 The Cellar d’Or) is gorgeously expressive, and Elio Grasso’s Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè (US$120 Fine Liquors) is in a wonderful holding pattern.

2001 – 5/5

Ideal conditions during summer with cooler weather in September allowed for slow, even maturation. The resulting wines boasted balanced ripeness with deep, earthy complexity and firm, ample structure.

Across communes and price points, they impressed upon release, though they weren’t necessarily easy going. Now they are very satisfying in their classic architecture – with the exception of the most enthusiastically oaked wines.

One of the vintage’s greatest wines, Bruno Giacosa’s Rocche del Falletto has consistently offered immense pleasure since age 18. Conversely, I wouldn’t touch Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino (in bond £994-£1,167 Appellations, Brunswick, Corney & Barrow, Cru) for another five years.

Better to crack open wines like Azelia’s Voghera Brea Riserva, which recently proved to be in its sweet spot. Even many of the region’s most accessibly priced wines such as Manzone’s Le Gramolere have stood the test of time. All the same, I would drink these soon.

2002 – 1/5

The most demoralising vintage of the 21st century thus far, 2002 was unseasonably cool, cloudy and rainy. Then, severe hailstorms in the second week of September devastated vineyards throughout the zone, most notably in the west.

Barolo production volumes were down approximately one third compared to 2001, and many producers declassified what grapes they could salvage as Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.

In more fortunate locations, such as Monforte and Serralunga, fresh and sunny autumn conditions allowed a few to coax out healthy grapes with sufficient ripeness. The vintage yielded just two Riserva wines of note: Conterno’s legendary Monfortino (£1,325-£1,600 Berry Bros & Rudd, Nemo Wine Cellars) and Massolino’s Vigna Rionda.

When I asked Franco Massolino if I might taste the latter, he graciously acquiesced. It represents a remarkable lesson to never completely dismiss a vintage.

2003 – 3/5

With record heatwaves across Europe, 2003 was the polar opposite of 2002. Beyond relentless, sweltering temperatures, the Langhe recorded a mere 265mm of rain between January and August. Vines shut down due to water stress, and uneven ripening led to an early harvest. Careful selection was essential due to sunburnt or shrivelled grapes.

Upon release, the wines largely lacked Nebbiolo’s signature aroma precision and were marked by drying tannins. With age, that astringency has been exacerbated in the vintage’s more oxidative wines.

Better examples – and there were some – aged more congruently. Nonetheless, for my palate, these reached their apogee at 10 to 15 years old.

At Giuseppe Mascarello’s estate last year, the fully evolved Monprivato (in bond £120 Hatton & Edwards) wasn’t necessarily thrilling but exhibited impressively managed tannins. Less elegant but also hanging on well was Marchesi di Barolo’s Sarmassa.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Conterno’s Cascina Francia has defied the vintage – at least in terms of ageability.

2004 – 4.5/5

After two challenging vintages, 2004 brought welcome reprieve. The long, moderate growing season and late harvest under ideal conditions allowed for ideal phenolic ripeness and development of Nebbiolo’s full spectrum of complex nuances. The only niggle was the abundant crop, which resulted in the occasional diluted wine.

I vividly recall the excitement and energy when I visited at harvest. Once released, four years later, the wines were characterised by a crunchy, mouthwatering quality; balanced, though not yet accessible.

Over the years most have lived up to that initial promise. At a recent Barolo dinner, Giuseppe Mascarello’s savoury, racy and almost fragile Monprivato (in bond £125-£213 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Bowes Wine, VinQuinn) was barely surpassed by Cavallotto’s Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva.

Alas, Domenico Clerico’s wood-driven Ciabot Mentin Ginestra spoke of a bygone era.

2005 – 3.5/5

Considered by several producers to be undervalued, 2005’s reputation as a cool, rainy vintage and the global recession simultaneous with its release (following the 2008 crash) resulted in sluggish sales. It also faced stiff competition from 2004 and 2006.

I would describe 2005 as inconsistent. Early October storms rendered picking times and fruit selection particularly crucial. Warmer, well exposed sites were favoured. Slightly angular wines sport lean fruit, and prominent acidity exaggerates tannin friction.

While they will never be round, gracious wines, some have improved over the years.

Staunch traditionalist Bartolo Mascarello died aged 78 in March 2005, passing the torch on to his daughter Maria Teresa. Their Barolo (in bond £292-£440 Berry Bros & Rudd, Crop & Vine, Justerini & Brooks) was balletic at age 10.

Five years later, Aurelio Settimo’s Rocche dell’Annunziata revealed its old-school timelessness, Brezza’s firmly vertical Sarmassa was in ascent, and Paolo Scavino’s Bric dël Fiasc (US$320/magnum Chateau Cellars) exhibited a friendlier side of the vintage.

Tasted earlier this year, Aldo Conterno’s Cicala is a wonderfully evocative rendering.

2006 – 4/5

From the start, 2006 fluctuated between warmer-than-average and unseasonably cool temperatures. Rainfall (or lack of) was similarly extreme. Bruno Giacosa, who suffered a stroke in 2006, decided not to bottle any Barolo or Barbaresco, citing the erratic conditions. Yet other producers compare it to the revered 1996 or 1999.

Austere, muscular and bracing, the wines were difficult to assess in their youth. Some, like Fratelli Alessandria’s Monvigliero (£100 in bond to £150 Mann Fine Wine, Nemo Wine Cellars) and Ettore Germano’s Cerretta promised accessibility a handful of years ago.

While the vintage’s less successful wines are starting to dry out, the better wines possess significant fruit intensity to back up that formidable structure. I have relished several rousing specimens, from Elio Grasso’s fiercely tannic Gavarini Chiniera and Oddero’s rustically characterful Vignarionda Riserva (US$190-$230 Eataly Vino, Wine Exchange), to Aldo Conterno’s haunting Granbussia Riserva (£394 Justerini & Brooks), which was one of my favourite wines of 2023.

Caressing rather than commanding, Giuseppe Mascarello’s Monprivato may very well be among my top picks in 2024.

2007 – 4/5

Warm rather than excessively hot, with moderate rainfall, 2007 was in advance throughout. Even with below-average temperatures in August, harvest was early. Still, the vines had ample time to develop healthy, ripe, sugar-rich grapes.

Fragrant and charming in their youth, the wines revealed their plush, fleshy nature from the start. Even more traditionally austere offerings were quite flashy to begin.

Up to this point, the 2007 wines have evolved in a correspondingly precocious manner. At 10 years old, both GD Vajra’s Bricco delle Viole and Elvio Cogno’s Ravera had arrived at a beautiful drinking window, demonstrating that the vintage also allowed Barolo’s cooler sites to shine.

And last year, an attractive pair of Riservas from Casa E di Mirafiore (US$188-$225 Bourbon Central, Park Avenue Liquor) and Marchesi di Barolo captured 2007’s generous but mature nature.

2008 – 5/5

The cool and rainy 2008 growing season saw fungal disease pressure persisting well into July. More than one producer has reminisced that they thought they wouldn’t harvest. Fortunately, mild, sunny weather towards the end of the summer changed growers’ fortunes.

Initially underrated, 2008 wasn’t as overtly seductive as 2007, but over time the elegantly structured, brilliantly focused wines have proven themselves and just keep blossoming. Tasted on several occasions, Vajra’s Bricco delle Viole is a stunning illustration.

The vintage also revealed the welcome transition away from a heavily oaked style, which, unlike Y2K’s low-rise jeans trend, is thankfully not poised to make a comeback.

I now seek out 2008s and have enjoyed plenty recently, such as Ciabot Berton’s silky Roggeri, Luigi Baudana’s diamond-in-the-rough Baudana, and even Voerzio’s more oak-inflected Case Nere Riserva (US$400 Vintage Wine Merchants). Earlier this year, Borgogno’s Riserva was the highlight at a 10-year release retrospective.

2009 – 3.5/5

Along the lines of 2003 but not as extreme, 2009 was neither among the region’s superlative vintages, nor a write-off, and previous experience with dry, hot vintages served producers well.

A retrospective last year demonstrated that the wines are ageing quite quickly. In some, surly tannins poked through and fruit was starting to oxidise. Others, such as Fratelli Alessandria’s Monvigliero were evolving more harmoniously.

I have thoroughly appreciated plenty of 2009s. Cogno’s Ravera showed the advantage of a cool site; however, Oddero’s Vignarionda Riserva (in bond £147-£179.33 Cru, Ideal Wine Co, Lady Wine, VinQuinn) also achieved exquisite balance. Azelia’s Voghera Riserva (in bond £87.50 Berry Bros & Rudd) and Ceretto’s Cannubi San Lorenzo (in bond £919-£945/magnum Crop & Vine, Ideal Wine Co, VinQuinn) made a strong case for old vines in difficult years.

Cannubi lived up to its lofty reputation, as evidenced by Giacomo Fenocchio, Brezza, and above all GB Burlotto (£313 in bond to £495 Crop & Vine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Wine Raks).

Barolo highlights from 2000-2009

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The village of Carema lies in a natural amphitheatre of terraced vineyards on the west side of the Dora Baltea valley, on the Piedmontese side of the regional border with the Val d’Aosta.

Below is the motorway which climbs up the valley to the Mont Blanc tunnel; above are the first high peaks of the Alps.

Ten years ago the wines of Carema and its unique terraces were in a state of decline, which seemed destined to relegate them to obscurity.

But recent years have seen a rejuvenation of the village, and so I visited the area to meet some of the producers bringing winemaking back to life.

Eight Nebbiolo from Carema listed below

Carema is made from a biotype of Nebbiolo known locally as Picotendre (the name reveals the influence of the French-speaking Val d’Aosta) or alternatively as Picotener or Picotendro.

If the wines of the Langhe are all about power and depth, Carema shows the more subtle, refined face of Nebbiolo. The combination of sandy soils and sub-Alpine climate bring out the complex aromas of the variety in wines with the classic pale shades of the variety, along with fine-knit tannins, vibrant energy, and alcohol levels hovering between 13-13.5%.

The wines of Carema tend to drink earlier than those of Barolo or Barbaresco, and one suspects they have the prerequisites to age – although the scarcity of older bottles makes that hard to confirm.

Carema’s terraces

The remarkable terraced vineyards of Carema are the epitome of heroic mountain viticulture. Supported by drystone walls which follow the contours of the hillside, they rise from around 300 metres above sea level to over 600 metres, with stamina-sapping gradients.

The terraces are completely covered by a roof of vines trained on an ingenious pergola system. Every three metres, a chestnut beam reaches from the back wall of the terrace to the wall of the one in front, where it is supported by a stone pillar.

Smaller lateral beams cross from left to right, forming a grid over which the vines extend in a tangle of vegetation above head height.

In the past, the system served to optimise space by allowing for the planting of vegetables under the pergolas – but it also has viticultural functions.

The rigid structures protect the vines from the fierce winds which blow down the valley, and the stones of the walls and pillars absorb heat during the day and release it during the night and early morning, protecting against frost.

Dying art

Pergola training also has an important influence on the character of the wines. Local enologist and producer, Vittorio Garda says that compared to wire-trained systems, pergola-grown wines have slightly lower alcohol and slightly higher acidity, which in times of ongoing climate change is a significant advantage.

There are, however, disincentives. Yields are low (an average of 40 quintals/ha) and the cost of maintaining the pergolas is high. Pruning the canopy is also a highly specialised task, which as the Cantina Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema cooperative’s agronomist, Alessio Maneglia, explains risks becoming a dying art.

For these reasons, many of the new growers are experimenting with guyot training and the simpler Veronese pergola of Soave and Valpolicella. Some of the older producers I spoke to find the trend disturbing, and they fear for the loss of Carema’s unique identity if the pergolas disappear.

The debate is destined to intensify in the coming years, as tradition and innovation inevitably come into stark contrast.

Rejuvenation

In 1967, the year Carema obtained DOC status, there were apparently 40 hectares in production in the village, and eight producers. By 2012, official data shows that the surface area was down to just 12ha and there were only two producers left: the admirable Cantina Produttori, which continues to play a vital role in sustaining production, and one independent bottler.

The reversal of this trend came in subsequent 12 years, with the arrival of six new winemakers, all of whom are now bottling wines.

‘In 10 years, we have managed to double the area under vine, from 12 hectares to 25 hectares, with at least another five hectares to come into production,’ says Gianmarco Viano, recent past president of the Giovanni Viticoltori Canavese association.

Many of the association’s members are among the new investors in Carema.

Thanks to the influx, production has gradually increased over the past four years to the equivalent of just under 80,000 bottles in 2022, and is destined to continue to grow.

Rosier future

The challenges new producers face are not insignificant. Finding vineyard to rent or buy to create a viable property is arduous in a context of highly fragmented ownership.

Many of the members of the Cantina Produttori cooperative, who could potentially supply the market, work less than a hectare of vines each.

Access to most of the terraces is solely on foot – mechanisation is a non-starter – and the logistics of winemaking are complicated in the cramped cellar spaces of the traditional stone-built houses in the village, and few have the opportunity to build new.

Despite these difficulties, I found enthusiasm and a palpable sense of momentum in the village. It is unlikely that production will ever return to the levels of 40 years ago, but there is no doubt that Carema has a future again.

And to judge by the exciting, hand-crafted wines coming out now, it will be a rosy one.

Carema: Eight wines to know

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There is an attractive blue butterfly that is known to lay its eggs in the violets of Serralunga in Barolo, in northwest Italy. Until a decade or so ago, however, as relayed to me by Isidoro Vajra, who tends the vines on his family’s Piedmont estate, Polyommatus celina’s range was generally confined to southern Spain, Portugal, Sicily, Sardinia and some other Mediterranean islands.

It’s just one of the many ways in which the climate crisis in the Langhe region can be illustrated. In what was a very warm year in terms of overall heat levels, the 2020 season can be compared to exceptionally warm years in the last couple of decades.

In his vintage report on his website, the Langhe region’s celebrated cartographer, Alessandro Masnaghetti, says that, ‘the data related to thermal sums [a measure of the accumulation of heat energy over a period of time]… in 2020 closely approached those of very hot years, such as 2003 and 2017’.

But the overall character of the 2020 Barolos is very different to what one might expect from a hot vintage. And this was down to two notable reasons: the lack of water stress across the season for the vines; and the absence of heat spikes.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

Tannin preservation

Heat spikes are now one of the major threats for winemakers, because of their tendency to oxidise the tannins, and the preservation of tannins has become one of the newest challenges in viticulture today. However, the aromas in the 2020s are well defined and the tannins ripe in the best examples.

‘In 2020, the rain occurred mainly at night, which was positive for the ripening of the vines,’ states Andrea Delpiano, winemaker at Giovanni Rosso in Serralunga.

But ripe tannins in a warm year requires a particular approach in the winery. ‘Compared to 2019, we used gentler extractions in 2020,’ explains Federica Boffa, now at the helm of Pio Cesare in Alba alongside his cousin.

Take the example of Maria Teresa Mascarello’s Barolo 2020. The wine underwent a long maceration on the skins, with the cap [the grape skins and solids in the fermentation vessel] submerged in the liquid for 55 days. By comparison, the 2019 vintage macerated for 30 days but without a submerged cap. At GB Burlotto in Verduno, the estate’s Barolo Monvigliero spent 33 months ageing in large oak barrels – a sign of the vintage’s quality, according to fifth-generation winemaker Fabio Alessandria.

Then again, some producers, such as fifth-generation Lorenzo Scavino at Azelia, based in Garbelletto, reduced the amount of barrel ageing in 2020, to better show off the purity of the fruit.

Testing conditions

Quality across the appellation, however, is more patchy than in 2019 or 2021. This is due to heavy rainfall on 2-3 October, which also led to hail in areas. As a result, the rain separated those who picked earlier – maybe too early? – from those who picked later.

Prunotto’s winemaker Gianluca Torrengo reports that ‘while in Barolo there were 90-100mm of rain, only 40mm fell in Barbaresco’, and furthermore, ‘in an area ranging from Cannubi [Barolo commune] to Fontanafredda [4km to its northeast], there was also hail’. Alessandria at GB Burlotto states: ‘We didn’t produce our Barolo Acclivi in this vintage, since we suffered intense hail between Verduno and La Morra [a little north of Barolo commune].’

Differences within the region were marked as well by the presence of downy mildew in the spring, which prevented perfect ripening of the tannins of the affected grapes. ‘Apart from the first four months of the year, in 2020 there was never a lack of water and indeed there were some problems with humidity, as evidenced by the widespread attacks of downy mildew,’ writes Masnaghetti.

Forward style

There isn’t one commune in particular that stands out from the others for quality. Monforte and Serralunga continue to display great consistency, though it could be argued that the wines from La Morra exhibit tannins that will prove a challenge to their immediate drinkability. Nor was the warm 2020 vintage easy for south-facing sites such as Cannubi.

The 2020 Barolos are generous and full, with more flesh on the bones even than the 2019s, but they perhaps have a shorter than average ageing window due to lower acidity and a related rise in pH. Some samples have shown a higher incidence of brettanomyces this year – a problem that, until a few years ago, was not of much concern (‘brett’ is the yeast infection that induces earthy barnyard or ‘cheesy’ aromas in mostly red wines – higher pH levels demand higher doses of sulphur dioxide to prevent its spread).

A new trilogy?

For third-generation Roberto Conterno of the Giacomo Conterno estate at Monforte d’Alba, the most recent trio of vintages – 2019, 2020 and 2021 – draws a strong analogy with 1999, 2000 and 2001. The 1999 and 2019 are both classic and austere; the 2000 and 2020 are warm and ready; while the 2001 and 2021 are of great quality, with 2021 potentially even surpassing 2001.

We’ll discover more about the 2021s next year when the wines are released, but in the meantime, the ‘butterfly Barolo’ of 2020 is a delight. In the glass, the 2020s reveal a substantial difference in colour compared to the 2018 Barolo Riservas – also released this year – with more concentration and darker hues in the former, allowing for the two fewer years of ageing.

‘With warmer vintages, even the colour of the lees has changed; nowadays, it’s darker, more vivid,’ observes Giacomo Conterno of Poderi Aldo Conterno, 2km north of Monforte d’Alba. ‘Today, more sugars are fermenting, opening up a new aromatic profile for Nebbiolo, to be exploited, not necessarily feared,’ the producer concludes.

See notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

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Nebbiolo is the classic ‘less-is-more’ style of wine. It’s perhaps no coincidence that today – when this is a style that’s very much in vogue – demand for young Nebbiolo has increased significantly, according to Piedmont’s Consorzio di Tutela Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe & Dogliani.

Focusing on Piedmont’s main DOC Nebbiolo categories, consorzio figures reported in January 2024 show that annual production of Nebbiolo d’Alba has increased by more than a million bottles since 2016 (to 5.64m bottles in 2022).

Over the same period, production of Langhe DOC wines (within which, it must be noted, there is primarily – but not only – Nebbiolo) grew from 15.4m to 19.5m bottles a year. By comparison, Barbera and Dolcetto volumes have declined, while DOCG Barolo (14.5m) and Barbaresco (5m) have increased more modestly, by about 500,000 and 200,000 bottles a year respectively.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s top 20 Nebbiolo wines from Langhe DOC

Intricately Italian

The legislative classification is intricate: typically Italian! The two denominations of Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC and Langhe DOC Nebbiolo have differences in origin, ampelographic characteristics and ageing requirements.

Nebbiolo d’Alba comes from a specific delimited area lying outside both the Barolo and Barbaresco DOCG regions; it must consist of 100% Nebbiolo and age for at least 12 months.

By contrast, the area from which Langhe Nebbiolo can be sourced encompasses the wider Langhe and Roero region – an enormous extension of 96 communes, ranging from Cortemilia (famed more for its hazelnuts than its wine) up to Vigna Rionda, which is one of the best cru sites of Serralunga. Langhe DOC Nebbiolo must be at least 85% Nebbiolo and has no minimum ageing limits.

On paper, therefore, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC ought to be superior and priced higher. However, in truth, it’s often the opposite, since Langhe DOC Nebbiolo can be a by-product of Barolo and Barbaresco – or come from the same vineyards, perhaps from the younger vines. In this regard, they can almost behave as ‘second wines’.

To further complicate the scenario, there are endless production interpretations: vinified in stainless steel tank and quickly released, or aged in large, neutral botti, French oak barrique, concrete, or even in amphora.

Favourable quality-to-price ratio

One of the most esteemed MGAs (menzione geografica aggiuntiva: equivalent to a ‘climat’ in France) from which Langhe Nebbiolos can be sourced is Valmaggiore. Located in the Roero (DOCG) commune of Vezza d’Alba, Luciano Sandrone, Bruno Giacosa and Mario Marengo produce examples that have become cult favourites.

One of the most expensive wines comes from the young vines of Vigna Rionda in Serralunga d’Alba (within Barolo DOCG): the Ester Canale Nebbiolo by Giovanni Rosso. Another gem, perhaps less known but equally deserving, is produced by Monchiero, from vines in Treiso (not of sufficient quantity to justify Barbaresco production) and from the north side of Monprivato hill in Castiglione Falletto.

These are fragrant, fresh, refined and complex wines, with the best examples showcasing elegance even in their tannins. In comparison with Barolo and Barbaresco, Langhe Nebbiolo may have less depth, concentration and ageing potential, yet climate change has made this grape increasingly elegant and approachable in its youth, thanks to lower acidity and riper tannins.

Indeed, top Piedmont producers such as Angelo Gaja and Giacomo Conterno (Aldo Conterno) often emphasise the higher consistency of recent vintages compared to those of the 1970s.

The result is that Nebbiolo has become more enjoyable to drink when young. So good, in fact, that several 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo wines compare favourably with some non-MGA Barolos from 2018.

‘Langhe Nebbiolo is somewhat outperforming classic Barolo, [which is] mostly being requested by the big monopoly tenders, high-volume retail or duty-free markets,’ says producer Luca Monchiero.

Ranked beneath classic Barolo and its top MGAs it may be, but the undeniable fact is that Langhe Nebbiolo offers Nebbiolo fans an outstanding quality-to-price ratio. Less is more, indeed!

See notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s top 20 Nebbiolo wines from Langhe DOC

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When you attend an event titled, ‘The tasting of a lifetime’, you can be fairly certain there will be some rather interesting wines on show. And when the winery in question is Gaja, you’d better be ready for some very special bottles!

That was certainly the case when the family visited London last October, gathering an impressive audience of journalists, sommeliers, buyers and more in the beautiful ballroom at the Dorchester – and assembling an even more impressive array of wines from throughout the winery’s distinguished history.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Gaja’s wines from the 2020s to 1950s

Gaia Gaja may be the international face of the family these days, but it was heartening to see that her father, Angelo (now 83) and her brother, Giovanni, had also been able to make the trip so soon after the harvest, presenting a united front. Angelo will likely never really retire, but his three children (Rosanna was not present at the event) have taken over the day-to-day operation of the company.

And so, while celebrating the past, there was a strong focus on the future. For instance, the family were keen to speak about their ‘white wine project’ which includes a new, dedicated white wine facility with its own winemaking team, and the inclusion of some high-altitude fruit from vineyards in Alta Langa. ‘We see the potential of making our white wines in Alta Langa,‘ declared Gaia.

It’s certainly a big investment, however they clearly see the benefit of these higher, cooler sites in the face of increasingly hot and dry summers. ‘I believe the new winery will allow us to be more flexible,’ added Angelo.

Gaja: A brief history

The Gaja family’s wine history began in the mid-19th century, when Angelo’s great-grandfather, Giovanni, used to sell his wine at the family’s little osteria. But it was his daughter-in-law, Clotilde Rey, who set the foundations for Gaja’s future by acquiring more vineyards and improving quality in order to demand higher prices.

Clotilde’s son, Giovanni, continued in a similar vein, acquiring more land and pursuing quality. He was also the first to emblazon the bottles with ‘GAJA’ in large type on the label – an exercise in branding that continues today.

Giovanni’s son, Angelo, joined the winery aged 21 in 1961. He worked tirelessly among the vines until 1968 when he got his big break and was finally allowed into the cellar. Ever since, the Gaja name has projected the twin ideas of innovation and quality, combining modern thinking with the heritage of the family business: Angelo was one of the first Italian winemakers to work with barriques, and actively embraced international varieties alongside the local Nebbiolo.

In the late-1970s, Angelo had secretly planted Cabernet Sauvignon right in the heart of the village of Barbaresco, literally under the nose of the mayor’s residence – who happened to be his father. ‘Darmagi’ was Giovanni Gaja’s response when he was told about the vineyard, meaning ‘what a shame’ in the local dialect. Two generations later, the family view is slightly different: ‘It represents the identity of my father…the curiosity,’ said Gaia. ‘The future is for curious people,’ added Angelo, with a wry smile.

Keen to push himself with new challenges, Angelo purchased the Pieve Santa Restituta estate in Montalcino in 1994, closely followed by the purchase of Ca’Marcanda in Bolgheri in 1996. More recently, he began collaborating with local producer, Alberto Graci on the IDDA project on Etna in 2017, bringing a Piemontese approach – and Angelo’s eye for innovation – to the volcano’s wines.

Sorí San Lorenzo was one of Barbaresco’s first single-vineyard wines when the 1967 vintage was released. This was followed by the release of the 1970 Sorí Tildin (which marked its 50th vintage in 2023 with the 2020 bottling) and Costa Russi (1978). In 1996, Angelo infamously declassified these three great cru wines from Barbaresco DOCG to Langhe DOC, in order to include around 5% of Barbera with the Nebbiolo: he was keen to return to a traditional recipe commonly seen in the first half of the century, before the foundation of the Barbaresco DOC in 1966 (it became a DOCG in 1980). Angelo’s decision stood until 2013, when his family persuaded him to revert to 100% Nebbiolo and to declare the crus once more as Barbaresco DOCG.

Groundbreaking

In 2004, Gaja was one of the first wineries to employ the services of Simonit & Sirch, who introduced a new way of pruning the vines to minimise what Marco Simonit calls ‘wounding’ of the plant, helping to extend the productive life of the vine and to reduce the chance of trunk diseases such as Esca. ‘It took 10 years for the vines to adapt,’ notes Gaia. Today, Simonit & Sirch are in demand across the globe.

Also in 2004, Angelo changed coopers and reduced the amount of new oak – just at the time that the use of new oak was reaching its apogee with winemakers, journalists and consumers alike. This decision, despite prevailing trends, has helped to give Gaja’s wines more transparency in recent years.

Angelo has broken new ground at every turn; from planting Cabernet in the centre of Barbaresco town, to being among the first to employ viticultural pioneers, Simonit & Sirch. From leaving the Barbaresco denomination, for which the estate had been a leading light, to launching projects in Tuscany and Sicily.

Despite approaching his mid-80s, with Angelo (Decanter Hall of Fame recipient in 1998) at the helm the winery is in rude health. But what has become abundantly clear is that its future looks just as bright as its past has been.

Tasting a lifetime’s work

While all the wines tasted were fascinating in their own rights, there were three that really stood out:

1964 Barbaresco is an absolute time capsule: Angelo was still working in the vineyards, not yet invited into the cellar. It was in this year that the village of Barbaresco was connected to a mains water supply for the first time, which Angelo explained was a turning point for the winemaking – previously, wells were utilised as the main water source, which was impractical and less hygienic. Finally, the Nebbiolo was harvested in mid-November, far later than in today’s warmer climate, which just serves to underline the climate crisis.

2001 Barbaresco is from an excellent vintage for Nebbiolo in Barbaresco. It was made at a time when more new oak was used, and is also the sole example from the estate of a Barbaresco DOCG – the single vineyard wines at this point were declassified as Langhe DOC.

Sorí San Lorenzo Barbaresco 2020 is the current release of one of Gaja’s three acclaimed single-vineyard wines. One of Barbaresco’s first ‘cru’ releases when it launched with the 1967 vintage, it remains to this day one of the finest examples of Nebbiolo within the Barbaresco area – and even beyond. The 2020 stands out for its fragrance and sapidity; both delicate and tense with plenty of depth.

Notes and scores for Gaja: 1958-2020

Wines poured spanned the winery’s impressive back-catalogue, covering the 2020s, 2010s, 2000s, 1990s, 1980’s, 1970s, 1960s and 1950s, giving an extraordinary overview of an estate (and a man) who has done much to define modern winemaking in Italy.

Related articles:

Gaja: A family portrait

Barbaresco 2013: A retrospective of one of the top vintages in the last decade

Piedmont’s up-and-comers plus the 10 bottles to seek out

The fate of a wine writer is tasting dozens of wines soon upon – or even prior to – release in order to assess a vintage and predict ageability. Far less often are we privileged to sweeping overviews once the wines are sold and tucked away in cellars.

Scroll down to see the top wines from the Barbaresco 2013 retrospective tasting

While I have been visiting Barbaresco regularly since 2004, the first anteprima, or press preview, I attended was in May 2016, when over 100 Barbaresco from the 2013 vintage were presented. Contrary to the latest releases from 2020, which are already accessible, 2013 was patently austere. Even at subsequent estate visits, the 2013s contradicted conventional drinking guidance that Barbaresco should be approachable by the age of five.

A turning point

Nevertheless, 2013 has earned a reputation as one of Barbaresco’s top vintages in the last decade or so, along with 2010 and 2016. Furthermore, when 2019 was released in 2022, the wines were compared to 2013, and as they are approaching 10 years old, I was curious to check in with them.

The 2013 vintage has often struck me as a turning point for the denomination, as it started to usher in a young generation and new labels. Furthermore, with 2013, Gaja returned to the Barbaresco fold with the estate’s cru wines, and Bruno Giacosa began producing a Rabajà bottling again.

With approximately 200 wineries producing fewer than 4.7 million bottles from 729 hectares (2013 statistics), Barbaresco is a small, contained denomination. As such, staging a retrospective tasting was relatively uncomplicated. Above all, the excellent Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco was an enormous help. This wine shop in the centre of the village works with most of the region’s producers, and the team swiftly assembled 60 wines and coordinated a blind tasting in the town hall.

I supplemented this with visits to a handful of prominent estates who were not able to send samples – namely Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Ca’ del Baio, Bruno Rocca, Cantina del Pino and La Ca’ Nova – rounding it out to an even 70 wines. I have included notes for all wines tried apart from a small handful that were noticeably flawed.

The 2013 growing season

Looking back to the 2013 growing season, it bucks the general trend of recent vintages. After a long, cold, snowy winter, bud break was two weeks late. Early spring saw low temperatures and abundant rainfall. Warm, dry conditions finally arrived in June, enabling flowering mid-month.

Temperatures continued to increase in July, but crucially there were no heat spikes in summer and cool temperatures returned in August. Improvements mid-September brought sunny days with above-average temperatures countered by cold nights.

As the vines were unable to compensate for the early-season delay, harvest was correspondingly late, starting 15 days later than the previous 10 years, according to the grower’s consortium. Picking began firmly in October and continued through to the beginning of November.

‘2013 was one of our latest picks, on October 20th,’ says Jeff Chilcott at Marchesi di Grésy. Similarly, Luisa Rocca recalls surveying the vineyards and estimating harvesting seven to 10 days later. ‘When we returned a week later, the grapes were still barely ripe,’ she recounts.

Speaking with producers today, there is much enthusiasm for the vintage. ‘2016 may be considered the vintage of the decade, but 2013 is just so classic,’ raves Produttori del Barbaresco’s Aldo Vacca. ‘It is like 2019 but with more structure.’

Others, such as Bruna Giacosa were less impressed. ‘I liked the wines we made but it isn’t a vintage that made me say “wow!”’ she admits. Federica Grasso at Ca’ del Baio is pragmatic. ‘It was a great vintage, but not in all the vineyards,’ she asserts, stating that the tannins in the estate’s Asili were slightly green.

Notes from the tasting

As demanding as it was to taste 2013 upon release, the virtues of the vintage were perceptible in the better wines: aromatic complexity from long ripening, reasonable alcohol levels, and ageworthy structure. Six to seven years later, it was rewarding to revisit, and particularly gratifying to find wines that achieved their early promise.

Those that demonstrate balance today were balanced from the start and are now revealing more of their charms. While an innate austerity persists, they boast beautiful fragrances and stately tannins with depth of fruit to match.

Conversely, time has not corrected imbalances such as underripe, overripe and/or oxidised fruit, excessively hard tannins or ungainly oak.

Most wines are entering their drinking window – but in some cases only just. For the most successful wines, this is not a vintage you need to hurry to open. Those ageing less gracefully provide a challenge of when to drink, as fully developed flavours may be met with wiry tannins.

The majority of wines submitted bore a Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA), meaning they hailed from one of Barbaresco’s 66 official geographic sub-units. This provided an opportunity to consider the personality and quality of specific zones, particularly when there was more than one example: Serraboella showed its signature muscular tannins; Roncaglie its steely, mineral drive; and Nervo its tension.

There were triumphs in each of Barbaresco’s three major townships. Neive’s Albesani MGA lived up to its esteemed reputation, and Gallina charmed with its fine-boned graciousness. In Treiso, the northern sector where the ridges slope west was particularly noteworthy with Bernadot, Nervo and Rizzi, as well as Pajorè.

The sweet spot was the western slopes of Barbaresco; think Secondine, Pora, Faset, Rabajà, Martinenga and Roncaglie. That said, one of my top wines – Albino Rocca’s gorgeous Ronchi – is located on the village’s eastern flank.

Surprisingly variable was the illustrious Asili MGA. Both Michele Chiarlo and Ceretto’s showed much potential upon release, but the latter in particular seems to be going through an awkward phase. Conversely, Produttori del Barbaresco’s bottling was a stunning demonstration.

Ultimately, quality came down to the combination of site and deft winemaking. The best estates read the vintage well, finding optimal picking time, preserving aromas and freshness, and carefully managing tannins.

In general, top producers such as Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Produttori del Barbaresco, Albino Rocca and Bruno Rocca measured up to their high standing, while Rizzi’s Boito and Castello di Neive’s Vigna Santo Stefano stood shoulder to shoulder with these wines. It was also encouraging to see less fêted estates like Piazzo, Marco e Vittorio Adriano, San Biagio, Ca’ Rome’ and Cascina Luisin in the upper echelons.

An old-school vintage, 2013 will satisfy classicists and may even challenge Barbaresco stereotypes. It is also a vintage that heralds an upward trajectory as Barbaresco continues to gain a critical mass of high-quality wines.

See the score table featuring all 65 Barbaresco 2013 wines here

Michaela’s top Barbaresco 2013 wines from the retrospective tasting

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Enrico Scavino left school in 1951 so that he could begin helping his father, Paolo at the family estate. Nothing unusual about that, except that Enrico was just 11 years old.

Over 70 years later, he’s still there, although now assisted closely by his daughters Enrica and Elisa. Enrica focuses on marketing and administration, while Elisa has studied viticulture and winemaking. Together, the family has built up one of the most respected estates in Barolo, with an enviable record of consistency.

Like many other estates in the region, Scavino produces a number of different single-vineyard Barolos. Their best known is Bric del Fiasc, a dialect name for the Fiaco vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, where the winery is based. It was first made in 1978 when Enrico, aware that his 2.2-hectare plot in that vineyard nearly always delivered the finest grapes, persuaded his father to bottle the wine separately.

I recently asked Elisa what made it so special. ‘It’s the heart of the estate,’ she responded. ‘We love the wines from Castiglione, and not just ours! There are other great sites here: Cavallotto’s Bricco Boschis, Mascarello’s Monprivato, and many others.

‘Bric del Fiasc isn’t the most powerful wine you’ll find in Barolo, but we find it displays the best balance and elegance. The soils in the vineyard are complex, with both sand and limestone, and they are rich in iron. This gives the wine its complexity and longevity too.’

Scavino’s range of Barolos has evolved over the years. The estate was well known for its Cannubi from La Morra, but this came from a rented vineyard and the lease has now expired. So there is no more Cannubi, and there is also no more Carobric, a blend of three sites including Cannubi.

Since 2001, however, Scavino has acquired more vineyards: Bricco Ambrogio in Roddi, Monvigliero in Verduno, Ravera in Novello, and Prapò in Serralunga. In addition, there are holdings in La Morra’s Rocche del’Annunziata, which is only made as a Riserva.

When Scavino bought these vineyards they were not that highly regarded, but today sites such as Monvigliero are greatly esteemed and many estates have acquired parcels here. Was it by chance that Scavino were pioneers of formerly obscure sites?

‘It’s mostly chance,’ says Elisa. ‘My father had admired Monvigliero for some time, and because it wasn’t seen as prestigious, it didn’t attract the attention of other producers such as Gaia and Giacosa. So when he got the chance to buy it, he did so.

‘As for Bricco Ambrogio, it was Domenico Clerico who told my father a parcel was for sale. He inspected it and immediately saw its potential. He bought it and it’s now our largest vineyard.’ Other sites, such as Ravera and Prapò, would follow in years to come.

Enrico was part of the generation that revolutionised the production of Barolo in the 1970s, with Clerico, Aldo Conterno and Elio Altare among its other leaders. They are best known for introducing barriques to the region’s cellars, but they also reduced yields radically and practised a more subtle vinification than their predecessors.

Paolo Scavino at a glance

Owners Scavino family.

Founded 1921

Location Castiglione Falletto

Surface 30 hectares

Top vineyards and wines Bric del Fiasc and Monvigliero

Production 180,000 bottles

In the cellar

Scavino was among the first to introduce roto-fermenters, which keep the skins in suspension during fermentation, although he has now reverted to more conventional steel vats. Nor was he an avowed modernist, and when I’ve visited the estate in the past, I’ve always been struck by Enrico’s pragmatic approach to ageing his wines.

Enrico did use a proportion of new barriques in the past, but they were never dominant. Today the Barolos are fermented in temperature-controlled steel tanks, using a submerged-cap vinification technique employing only indigenous yeasts. However, the estate also conducts some fermentation in wooden tanks.

Ageing today begins in casks or used barriques for 10 months, and continues for a further 12 months in large French casks. ‘It’s partly a practical matter,’ explains Elisa. ‘We do over sixty vinifications each year, so when we can’t fill a cask, we put the leftover wines into smaller barrels.’

Looking ahead

There are no current plans to expand the estate further, given the high cost of land and vineyard development. ‘But we’d never say “never”,’ says Elisa. New Barolos will nonetheless be added to the range: from the 2020 vintage, there will be a small quantity of Rocche di Castiglione, made from the wine that used to contribute to the Carobric blend. With vines in Bussia, they are also considering a separate bottling of this cru, but no firm decision has yet been made.

After the hot years of 1997 and 2000, Scavino became aware that the climate was indeed changing, and were swift to adapt. They installed netting over the rows, not only to protect the vines from frequent hailstorms but to filter the ever-stronger sunlight, so as to avoid burning or cooking the bunches. They also practise some irrigation in very dry summers, but it’s not systematic. And being aware that conventional tractors can compact the soil, they are contemplating using drones to spray the vineyards.

The farming is not organic but Elisa insists, ‘we make intelligent use of natural products and rely on the knowledge we’ve acquired over many decades as well as common sense.’

Elisa agrees that Barolo overall has come a long way since the 1980s and 1990s, when the wines were often tannic, tarry and overbearing. ‘There has been a change in style among most producers, and we’re all making better wines. The weather has changed, and riper vintages give softer tannins. We pay a great deal of attention to maceration periods. In 2016 we could do a long maceration, but that same period would have wrecked the more delicate 2017 and 2018 vintages. We need to be very sensitive about issues such as the date of harvest, fermentation temperature, length of maceration and so forth. We are moving in the direction of shorter macerations and earlier bottling to preserve more of the wine’s freshness and energy.’

Freshness, texture, and finesse remain the hallmarks of the Scavino style, and quality is now effortlessly high.

Paolo Scavino: Tasting the 2019s, plus a mini-vertical of Bric del Fiasc

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Gaia credits New York and American wine writer Burton Anderson with pushing fine Italian wine to the forefront of the world’s awareness. The waves of Italian immigrants to the United States wanted a taste of their homeland that was not present in the bulk wines from Italy that dominated the market for much of the 1970s and 80s. Gaja has been importing its wines to the US for 45 years.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 10 wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York

Anderson’s 1980 book Vino: The Wines and Winemakers of Italy spotlighted the country’s fine wine producers. It was a catalyst for New York-based importers, restaurants and sommeliers seeking to learn more about the country’s top producers.

A family steeped in history

The Gaja family started making wines in 1859. Giovanni Gaja owned a tavern and started making wine to serve there. The quality of the wines raised the tavern’s popularity, and soon Giovanni decided to make wine his focus, eventually closing to focus on wines in 1902.

As pioneers for both the Barbaresco region and the country of Italy, they have led the way in terms of quality and conceptualising wines of place for 164 years.

In 1905, second-generation winemaker Angelo Gaja marked his business cards as a ‘producer of wines of luxury,’ a concept that would not have existed in the pastoral setting of the village and hills of Barbaresco. It announced the ambition he had for the wines of the Gaja family.

By 1937, Gaia’s grandfather and third-generation, Giovanni Gaja had begun producing Barbaresco of different quality classifications. This included Barbaresco normale, Barbaresco classico, Barbaresco fino and Barbaresco superiore, introducing an entirely new concept to wines of the region.

Additionally, Giovanni became known for not producing wine in bad vintages — a commitment to quality unheard of at the time.

Her father, Angelo, whom Gaia described as ‘rebellious’, would continue this tradition of innovation, becoming the first to make single-vineyard wines in Barbaresco and highlighting the family’s commitment to quality and the terroir of their estate vineyards. Angelo’s rebellious streak would see him plant Bordeaux varieties in Barbaresco, another first.

Gaia and her two siblings are all involved in the current iteration of Gaja. Rather than focus on one area of the business, they share responsibility equally across the brand, involving themselves in viticultural decisions, winemaking and marketing, and working collaboratively with their father, Angelo, spurred on by his spirit of innovation.

Gaja masterclass: The wines

The wines Gaia poured for the masterclass told a story of the Gaja estate vineyards, Italy’s ability to craft wines of the highest quality, and her father Angelo’s tendency to buck conventional ways of doing things.

Gaja, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2020

Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda, Bolgheri, Tuscany 2020

Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2018

Gaja, Costa Russi, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sorì Tildìn, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, Piedmont 1991

Gaja, Darmagi, Langhe, Piedmont 1982

Gaja, Gaia & Rey, Langhe, Piedmont 2002

Gaja, Alteni di Brassica, Langhe, Piedmont 1992

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines featured in this masterclass

Illustrations of tradition and innovation

We certainly saw examples of what Gaja is best known for in this selection. The flagship Barbaresco shows stylistic shifts, and the notion of needing to wait 10 years to approach the wines is a thing of the past. A juiciness belies Nebbiolo’s reputation as an austere, tannic wine unapproachable for years.

The two Tuscan wines demonstrated that Gaja is not only good at making timeless wines from Piedmont; there were some genuine surprises with the older vintages. Ca’Marcanda is an homage to the boulevard of Bolgheri, lined with 2,600 cypress trees planted over 150 years ago. The Brunello, Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, has vineyards planted near the church it takes its name from, including a former cemetery from 1,400 years ago – as Gaia pointed out playfully, it’s not simply limestone that makes up the terroir here.

A trio of single-vineyard Barbaresco from the classic 2016 vintage showed the true heights that Gaja can reach in their historic appellation; a contrast in soils, aspect and temperature across their three most famous cru bottlings.

Sperss has become an iconic Barolo for Gaja. Angelo purchased the vineyard in 1988, an already well-known and historic vineyard in Serralunga. This example shows that even in the difficult-at-best 1991 vintage in Piedmont, the terroir and winemaking have created a wine that shines beautifully.

Darmagi shows the renowned rebellious nature of her father Angelo, who planted Cabernet Sauvignon below the house of the mayor of the village of Barbaresco – his father, Giovanni. The name Darmagi captured Giovanni’s reaction to the planting of Bordeaux varieties in his home region and translates to ‘what a shame.’

The 2002 Gaia & Rey may have been the surprise of the day. Planted in 1979, Angelo’s motivation was to show that great white wine could come from Piedmont. He then followed that with Sauvignon Blanc, for Alteni di Brassica. As climate change has impacted Piedmont, Gaja has looked to the Alta Langhe, planting Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc there as the original plantings have struggled in the face of rising temperatures.

The Gaja family has also begun an operation on Mount Etna, Sicily, in the last few years, working with Alberto Graci on their collaborative IDDA wines. Another demonstration that this family steeped in Piedmont tradition is always looking ahead.

Wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York:

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Either way you look at it, 2018 was not really a Riserva vintage in Piedmont’s Barbaresco DOCG. There was the spring frost, the hail on 17 July, then a good deal of rain on top of the warm climate. These challenges beset producers desperate for a large harvest after the drought-like 2017 vintage.

The hot weather allied to the rainfall should have been perfect for higher yields in 2018, but instead it resulted in dilute wines in the worst examples, and a light, graceful Barbaresco for more immediate drinking in the best.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 recommended Barbaresco Riserva 2018 wines

Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco confirmed that the region’s acclaimed cooperative would not produce a Riserva in 2018.

Similar news ensued from Gaia Gaja, who said that her Gaja winery would not produce its top selection Sorì range (San Lorenzo, Tildin and Costa Russi) in this vintage.

On the one hand, the reputation of 2018 is perhaps too low. Walter Lodali confesses: ‘the wines are hard to sell compared to 2019.’

From September, with the arrival of the round 2020 wines on the market, I would imagine they will become even harder to sell. This is a shame, because although the wines might not be particularly ageworthy, there are nevertheless a lot of delicious, typical Barbaresco that are expressive now and easy to drink.

On the other hand, the consensus about the vintage proves how difficult it may have been to produce a Riserva.

Looking closer at the growing season, it was defined by a longer than usual winter with abundant rainfall that replenished groundwater resources depleted by climatic trends leading up to 2017.

A single heatwave occurred at the end of April which led to an early bud break, then rains and below average temperatures continued across April, May and June.

Halfway through July, temperatures rose significantly but a bad hailstorm hit the region on Sunday 17 July. September was sunny, with two hot weeks that allowed the grapes to ripen faster. Harvest concluded by the first week of October, a date that often marks its beginning.

Not a sound spring, not a regular veraison, not a long growing season. In my opinion, the 2018 vintage lacks the favourable elements needed to imagine a Riserva. There were a handful of good examples, but not much more than that due to the lack of volume, concentration and complexity.

Barbaresco Riserva 2018 recommendations

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Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Federico Moccia and Emma Robinson tasted 82 wines with two Outstanding and 52 Highly recommended.

Nebbiolos of the world: Panel tasting scores

82 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 52

Recommended 26

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their Nebbiolo still red wines, single-varietal or blends with a minimum 75% Nebbiolo, from any country and any region other than Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco

Nebbiolo has packed its bags. It’s been travelling around the world, revealing its different facets, and showing an exceptional degree of consistency. Nebbiolo’s success is tangible and can be expressed numerically, since two-thirds of the wines featured in this fascinating tasting achieved scores of 90 points and above.

There are many positives. For Federico Moccia, highlights included Nebbiolo’s ‘ability to keep varietal characteristics, while simultaneously expressing its terroir’. Emma Robinson was pleased to see ‘New World winemakers making lighter styles with moderate alcohol levels that were eminently drinkable, and offering consumers good value for money in all price categories’.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Nebbiolos of the world panel tasting

The objective was to evaluate Nebbiolo’s performance outside its stronghold of Barolo and Barbaresco, yet Italy still dominated the tasting with 22 wines achieving 90 points and above, closely followed by Australia with 18 wines, and the US coming in third place with eight wines deemed by the panel to be either Outstanding or Highly recommended.

For Moccia, the wines from the US stood out: ‘They displayed darker colour, good fruit concentration and the abundance of sunshine during the growing season, giving the wines individuality and sense of place,’ he said. ‘Although their use of oak was more noticeable compared to other countries, it was perfectly balanced within the wines’ overall structure.

‘By contrast,’ Moccia continued, ‘Australian wines were elegant, pure and clean with a beautiful aromatic intensity.’ Robinson agreed and suggested that there is ‘real value to be found in Australia, where consumers may find Nebbiolo styles that are more approachable given their juicy fruit-forward style, gentler tannins and classier use of oak’.

See all 82 wines from the Nebbiolos of the world panel tasting

In terms of quality, Italy and Australia shone. Of the top eight highest-scoring wines, Italy showcased three from Piedmont and one from Lombardy. The best Australian examples came from a wider geography, including King Valley and Beechworth in Victoria’s High Country, McLaren Vale and Eden Valley in South Australia. The fact that one of the top-scoring wines of the tasting came from the US (the Clendenen, see below) confirmed Nebbiolo’s ability to travel well, retain its varietal character, demonstrate a sense of place and age gracefully. Given the climatic conditions and proximity to the US, it was not surprising also to see wines from two Mexican producers – of which the 2017 vintage (right) was one of the most highly rated wines of this tasting. Readers looking for an element of surprise could also explore Nebbiolo from Canada, with Blasted Church Vineyards submitting a convincing example.

In general terms, the New World’s abundant sunshine ensures that most of the wines in this tasting are ready to be enjoyed earlier. The ability to maintain varietal typicity ensures that the wines possess the hallmarks to age for at least a decade. These wines will no doubt satisfy consumers who enjoy wines akin to Barolo and Barbaresco, and who would like to explore something equally sophisticated and characterful, but with distinct personalities.

Nebbiolos of the world panel tasting scores

The judges

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant and educator. Moving to the UK from Brazil in 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors, becoming a Master of Wine in 2008, then co-authoring the awarded Portuguese-language book Conheça Vinhos (‘Understanding Wine’, Editora Senac).

Federico Moccia is head sommelier at London private member’s club 67 Pall Mall. Originally from Brescia in northern Italy, he is an advocate for Italian wine, as well as a DWWA judge and a contributor to decanter.com.

Emma Robinson is a wine buyer covering Australia, New Zealand and South Africa at London-based merchant Enotria&Coe. She previously held positions in sales and export at Crush Wines then Bibendum Wine, where she was also a WSET wine educator.

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Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Barbaresco 2020 vintage rating: 4/5

‘Given its more approachable style, it is not likely to be a favourite vintage among classic Barbaresco lovers… But in the best examples there is volume, lushness and balance’

Having tasted more than 70 wines during Nebbiolo Prima in Alba at the end of January 2023, it appears that 2020 is a very round vintage. Was this down to increased care in the vines, or a more favourable climate? A legitimate question.

‘However favourable the 2020 vintage may turn out to be – and as time goes on, we’ll seek to assess that – it seems likely that 20 years from now the vintage will be remembered not so much for the quality of the wines but rather for the Covid-19 epidemic,’ wrote Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Mapman, in his detailed vintage report.

The growing season

2020 doesn’t have a single, identifiable detail that characterises the vintage. Rainfall was abundant and quite spread out over the season, which was generally humid.

The temperatures were high as well, certainly warm enough to consider the vintage as being hot. While it didn’t come close to the record heat in 2003, it was similar to 2017 ‘with significant peaks of heat between the end of July and early August,’ explains Masnaghetti.

The maturity of the grapes was impressive and the tannins almost always very refined. Given its more approachable style, it is not likely to be a favourite vintage among classic Barbaresco lovers, thus why it deserves a rating of four out of five.

But in my opinion, this ready-to-drink style should be seen in a positive light. In the best examples there is volume, lushness and balance. It’s difficult to presume a shorter window of ageability considering the balance and the quality of the tannins.

Coming soon: Barbaresco Riserva 2018

As Angelo Gaja often reminds us, in modern vintages there is increased quality and maturity of the tannins at the expense of lower acidity.

All in all, 2020 was a very good vintage, particularly considering the dry 2017, the dilute 2018 and an unassuming 2019 in Barbaresco (compared to Barolo) which was affected by a hailstorm.

The numbers say so too. Barbaresco production in 2020 increased from 4,915,000 bottles in 2019 to 5,128,000 and is currently experiencing solid growth, according to Consorzio Albeisa’s technical manager, Emanuele Coralia.

This is not only an increase due to the vintage, but a trend for the appellation which has been expanding by 7ha every year since 2015.

See the results of the recent Barbaresco panel tasting

This new dimension of Barbaresco should be followed with attention from a commercial point of view. In fact, while 80% of the production of Barolo is exported, Barbaresco is exported at just 60% (the main markets being USA 19%, Scandinavia 10%, Germany 8.4% and UK 6.7%).

‘The lower volumes exported are due to the smaller dimension of the appellation and of the estates,’ commented Coralia. So, 2020 could be the perfect vintage for the region to explore new markets with these extremely well-crafted Barbaresco wines.

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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Austerity is not all the same: Nebbiolo is more austere than Pinot Noir and Sangiovese; Barolo is more austere than Barbaresco; the stern texture of Monforte and Serralunga is different from that of the village of Barolo, which itself is different from La Morra.

Austerity aside, Barolo Riserva are also less ready to drink, mostly due to their traditionally higher extraction. However, if there is a specific justification for the more austere character of a wine, it can be found in the vintage – and 2017 was that kind of vintage.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2017 Riserva wines

View all 26 Barolo 2017 Riserva from Aldo’s vintage report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

The 2017 vintage

The season was hot and dry. Maria Teresa Mascarello defined it as ‘the harvest of the dust.’ In the Langhe, where sandstone is prevalent among the vine’s roots, and the roads at the bottom of Serralunga and Monforte often become slippery after the first rainfall due to the cascading sand, evidence of the drought was clear in 2017.

Sugar ripeness occurred long before tannin ripeness. In instances like this, the natural austerity of a Barolo Riserva is met with the added trials and tribulations of the vintage. In the worst cases, producers tried (unsuccessfully) to hide unripe tannins behind the Riserva label, but thankfully there were very few examples of this. The best, in comparison, resulted in great wines full of complexity and refinement, the structure tamed thanks to precise manual work, yield management, and gentle handling in the winery.

The Nebbiolo Rosè biotype, replanted in the 1990s by Valter Fissore from Elvio Cogno and considered the lightest Nebbiolo in terms of tannins, performed deliciously well in 2017. In the middle of the spectrum, scrolling through my tasting notes, there is a very good level of quality due to concentration, volume and depth – but most of the time this is at the expense of a dry finish, which proves the elevated austerity of the 2017s.

2017 vs 2018

These Barolo Riservas are, in any case, more attractive than the 2018s. Not by chance, in Barbaresco there were many producers – even the notable Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative – who preferred to skip the Riserva in 2018. If 2017’s defect was excessively dry tannins, the limit of 2018 was a tendency to be dilute. If I were asked to bet on one of the two vintages, I would put my money on 2017. It has the potential to improve with age, as time softens the best tannins and integrates them with the rich fruit, while it would be tough to enhance what 2018 already lacks.

The samples of 2017 Riserva available at Nebbiolo Prima, the press preview held in Alba by Consorzio Albeisa, were fewer than the previous year. Was this due to the quality of the vintage? Partially. But it also must be said that as interest in the MGAs builds, the Riserva category is no longer the undeniably higher quality Barolo.

Extended ageing

There are, however, quite a few producers who are working on a sort of ‘grand Riserva’ programme, releasing their Riserva after extended ageing of 10+ years. But the scarce availability of these Riservas in the market today is, in my view, a sign that those who decided to produce 2017 with longer ageing were convinced of its quality in the long run.

Top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2017 wines

The wines below all scored 96 points or above 

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Barolo 2019 vintage rating: 5/5

Good distribution of rainfall throughout the long growing season, with a warm spring, a scorching end to July which led to sunburnt grapes in some vineyards, and a hailstorm in September which mostly affected vines in La Morra. October was drier, with mild days and cool nights. Comparisons to the very structural 2013 vintage have been made by more than one producer.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2019 wines

The 2019 vintage

The adjective ‘classic’ can only partly be intended, as it is in Bordeaux, to indicate wines that are less concentrated. Here in Barolo, ‘classic’ refers to traditional, old-fashioned or even old-school styles – a ‘classic’ vintage is more austere than supple.

All the producers agree on the point that 2019 is a classic vintage. Even if it lacks a bit of concentration, it deserves five stars. But let’s go in order. Compared to the most recent (yet to be bottled) 2021 and 2022 vintages, which were affected by drought, 2019 started with good water reserves for the vines thanks to plenty of rain and snow through the winter, crucial for storing water in the steep, weathered, poor soils of the Barolo hills.

‘The sum of the rainfall in 2021 and 2022 together doesn’t reach the levels of 2019 by itself,’ Maria Teresa Mascarello announced to me. Conversely, the annual average rainfall of 654.5mm recorded for 2019 (according to the analytical data collected by respected ‘mapman’ Alessandro Masnaghetti on his platform barolomga360.it) was lower than that for the rainy, warm 2018 vintage’s 923.7mm.

And while 2018 was considered a bit ‘diluted’, 2019 is not, thanks to a better distribution of rainfall and a drier last part of the season. In terms of the spring, the two vintages were similar: pressure from diseases was quite high at flowering and fruit-set, and most of the 2019 wines that show rustic tannins can be attributed to this.

In 2019, warmth set in early, and the end of July was marked by terrible heat: ‘We measured 46-47°C in the vineyards,’ said Andrea Delpiano, Giovanni Rosso’s winemaker in Serralunga.

Temperatures peaking over 40 degrees were ‘followed by rain,’ as Fabio Alessandria from GB Burlotto specified. ‘We had some sunburn on the grapes in Bussia,’ admitted Marta Rinaldi from the Giuseppe Rinaldi estate which this year will release its first Bussia MGA. Sunburn was one of the main threats in 2019, as well as a hailstorm in September which mostly affected La Morra. ‘We did not pick Rocchette Vino due to the hail,’ confirmed Francesco Bianco, winemaker at Gianfranco Bovio. Apart from that, 2019 didn’t suffer spring frost as in 2021, and registered a great conclusion with mild days and cool nights which extended the season.

Harvest in 2019 finished around 20 October: the epitome of classic! Nebbiolo grapes with longer growing seasons are, in my experience, the best in terms of complexity and ability to age. The wines of this vintage have slightly more acidity, more structure, a bit of sternness: trademark Barolo.

See all 139 wines from Aldo’s Barolo 2019 report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

Classic

What, in my personal view, counts even more to further define ‘classic’ and my preference for this vintage, is that 2019 also has lower alcohol: 13.5-14%, which results in 0.5% to 1% below the average. Also, the lower the alcohol the better the management of volatile acidity, which was kept to a minimum in this vintage.

For GB Burlotto’s Fabio Alessandria, ‘the 2019 shows analytical data like 2013 in terms of tannins, alcohol and acidity, which is five to ten percent higher than usual. It produces a vertical wine, one that is straight, not powerful nor broad. My wines seem to have less shoulder and more energy [in 2019].

‘In the end, we have two to three great vintages for each decade, just like in the past. Most likely the 2019 is a less approachable vintage for those who are not too involved in Barolo.’

This last sentence captures my curiosity for these wines and their potential for evolution. Even Roberto Conterno from Giacomo Conterno compares 2019 – which is ‘more structured’ – with the ‘super-structured 2013.’ In comparison, he said, ‘the 2020 vintage is more exuberant and 2021 is somewhere in the middle of the two’.

The first tastings of Barbaresco, now releasing the 2020 vintage, have shown very sweet tannins and more round and approachable wines without being simple or obvious. They suggest another promising year for Barolo – but less upscale compared to 2019. At the same time, the samples of 2021 I tasted from barrel have shown great concentration and power. Will it be better?

I prefer to be pragmatic with such complex 2019s in the glass. To dive in even further, we could look to the analytical data collected by ‘mapman’ Alessandro Masnaghetti on his platform, barolomga360.it. In terms of rainfall, the 2019 vintage was slightly lower but close to 2016 and 2013 (25.76 inches). At the same time, monthly heat summation (per temperature > 10°C) was close to vintages like 2016 or 2006 but higher compared to 2013.

Which Barolo 2019 should you seek out?

The wines that do not lack in concentration – such as the great Brunate from Rinaldi, the astonishing Monfortino from Giacomo Conterno, the complex Bartolo Mascarello, and the super-elegant Monvigliero from GB Burlotto – deserve attention in the 2019 vintage.

Interestingly, three of these four top examples are blends, which well describes this vintage: blending the grapes from different MGAs has produced wines with more volume, refinement and complexity at this early stage. The single-MGA wines will need more time to develop their complexity, although they already demonstrate signature characteristics.

Southern exposures are back at the top in 2019, with sleek examples such as Brezza’s Sarmassa in the commune of Barolo. Cerretta in Serralunga d’Alba, with its multiple exposures, is increasingly establishing itself as one of the best and most consistent MGAs.

Gianfranco Bovio was among a handful of pleasant surprises among the lesser-known producers, adjusting their winemaking style to shorten the duration of pumping over, switching from barrique to botti grandi, and incorporating a splash of press wine a là Bordeaux.

Excluding La Morra – which in my opinion is too large to be easily defined, and moreover suffered from hail in 2019 – both Monforte and Serralunga performed better than the commune of Barolo in terms of quality.

Barolo 2019: Top-scoring wines

The following 25 wines all scored 96 points or above

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

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Tasting through Ceretto’s Barolo and Barbaresco portfolio is both a hedonistic and educational experience. Few wineries offer an equally varied line-up of excellent wines from some of Piedmont’s most famous vineyards.

Scroll down to see tasting notes & scores for Ceretto’s Barolo and Barbaresco wines

Owning over 160 hectares across three estates, Ceretto is a large producer by Langhe standards, but it doesn’t solely rely on economies of scale. The Cerettos – Bruno, Marcello, and their siblings Alessandro, Federico, Lisa and Roberta – are among the most energetic and forward-thinking entrepreneurs in the Italian wine industry.

Over the last 30 years, they have ventured beyond wine production, importing some of the finest French wines into Italy, acquiring luxury food brand, Relanghe, and managing the multi-award-winning Piazza Duomo restaurant (read more below).

The Ceretto family also financed the construction or renovation of some of the Langhe’s architectural landmarks, including the Brunate Chapel (painted by Sol Lewitt and David Tremlett in 1999), the oblique glass and steel Cubo at the top of the Bricco Rocche vineyard, and the Acino (grape-shaped) panoramic room in the Monsordo Berardina estate.

Ceretto fact box

Date founded 1937

Hectares under vine 160

Annual production Approximately 1.2 million bottles

Key vineyards Asili, Bernadot, and Gallina (Barbaresco); Bussia, Bricco Rocche, Brunate, Cannubi San Lorenzo, Prapò, and Rocche di Castiglione (Barolo).

From Blangè to Barolo

Innovation has always been part of Ceretto’s DNA. Not only were Bruno and Marcello Ceretto among the first to release single-vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco, in 1974, but they also launched Blangé, one of the most successful white wines in Italy in the 1980s and 1990s.

Made from Arneis grapes, Blangè was among the first Italian whites produced with the cold soaking technique, which boosted the aromatics while preserving the light and sour taste that appealed to consumers at that time. The French-sounding name derives from the Piedmontese distortion of the term ‘Boulanger’ (baker) and refers to the job of the previous owner of the original vineyards.

‘Blangè was first released in 1985 and quickly became a bestseller,’ explained Mattia Pagliasso, export manager at Ceretto. ‘In just ten years, the brothers had to increase vineyard size and production tenfold to satisfy booming demand’.

Blangè, which today accounts for roughly 50% of the estate’s production, generated a cash flow that funded the previously mentioned projects, as well as the expansion of family holdings in the Barolo and Barbaresco denominations.

In 1997, Bruno and Marcello added five hectares in the high-altitude Bernadot cru of Treiso to their vineyard portfolio, which already included several other vineyards in five different townships purchased between the 1960s and ‘70s. The acquisition of 0.4 hectares in the Cannubi San Lorenzo vineyard followed in 2002.

The long-term goal of making at least one single-vineyard wine from each of the denominations’ main villages was finally achieved in 2015, when they acquired a 0.3 ha plot in the Gallina vineyard in Neive (Barbaresco), and established a rental agreement to vinify fruit from the Bussia vineyard in Monforte d’ Alba.

The biodynamic revolution

The new generation improved the management of the 32 hectares in the Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs. The revolution started in 2009, when Alessandro Ceretto, who has been the head winemaker since the early 2000s, hired renowned consultant Adriano Zago to convert the Nebbiolo vineyards to biodynamic agriculture. ‘We began with the best plots, as the small size facilitated experimentation,’ remarked Pagliasso.

Alessandro was deeply satisfied with the first results, so he expanded the project beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, and by 2015, all the vineyards owned by Ceretto were certified organic. ‘We work in the vines according to biodynamic principles, but we are not seeking the biodynamic certification, as we prefer to pursue our winemaking style instead of adapting to dictated standards,’ said Pagliasso.

In the cellar

In line with Zago’s influence in the vineyards, winemaking at Ceretto changed radically too. A transition took place from the modernist style of Barolo and Barbaresco that Marcello and Bruno had followed since the early 1990s towards a style that combined transparency and approachability, under the supervision of Alessandro.

2009 was the first vintage in which the single-vineyard wines underwent fermentation with ambient yeasts. Regular mechanical presses replaced roto-fermenters, and the percentage of new oak was reduced to around 5-8%.

Alessandro currently vinifies the different parcels within each vineyard separately and assembles them before bottling. Fermentation happens in stainless steel vessels at 25-26°C, and maceration normally lasts between 20 and 25 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrique.

Ageing occurs for 10 to 12 months in barrique or tonneaux, and for either one or two years – depending on whether it is Barolo or Barbaresco – in French and Slavonian oak botti grandi. All the wines are bottled unfiltered and spend at least one more year in the cellar before hitting the market.

Over time, I have tasted old and new vintages of Ceretto’s single-vineyard collection, and I have found the stylistic shift quite remarkable. While the latest releases stand out for their purity, refinement and site-specific character, the wines from the 1990s and early 2000s are still lively, but in many cases the heavier extraction and stronger use of new oak resulted in darker profiles with drier tannins and less detail.

‘It is going to be interesting to see how the recent releases will perform in the long run,’ affirms Pagliasso. ‘Maybe they will have a slightly shorter drinking window than the wines made before 2009, but we believe they will evolve differently and more gently, showing greater complexity.’

Piazza Duomo

The joint venture between the Ceretto family and superstar chef, Enrico Crippa, Piazza Duomo is the only restaurant owned by a wine producer to hold three Michelin stars, and appears in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list (#19 in 2022).

Enrico Crippa is a master of plant-based fine dining, using over 250 different vegetables sourced from the orchard and greenhouse within Ceretto’s Monsordo Berardina estate. His take on Piedmontese cuisine is groundbreaking, blending traditional ingredients with herbs, vegetables and spices to create dishes that combine freshness and lightness with mind-boggling aromatic persistence.

Standout courses from the current menus include potato cream, lapsang souchong, and white truffle; snails and polenta; Risotto Roiboos; and the Winegrower’s salad (with beef tongue and Piedmontese green sauce).

The restaurant also boasts an extensive wine list with a clear focus on Piedmont, Burgundy and Champagne, and offers a tasting menu dedicated to Barolo pairings.

Comparing the crus: Tasting Ceretto’s Barolos and Barbarescos

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Piedmont, in the northwest corner of Italy, is as renowned for its food as its wines. The town of Bra is home to the Slow Food movement, while arguably the most famous truffle market in the world can be found in historic Alba. Both espresso and vermouth lay claim to having been invented in the region’s capital, Torino.

But here, the wine should really take centre stage, and fittingly the region’s most famous export – Barolo – is known as the ‘king of wines’.

Nebbiolo in Piedmont commonly serves up plenty of acidity – a feature preserved in the grapes by the cool morning mists that roll over the hillsides of Monforte – which provides freshness to these wines and balances the weight of tannin and fruit. As discussed in our piece on wines for the Christmas table, acidity is your friend in these situations.

Alongside red fruit flavours, classic Barolo characteristics can include violet, rose, liquorice and tar, depending on a wine’s stage of development.

The Barolos listed below range from the ‘mature, autumnal’ 2013 Bricco Voghera Riserva from Azelia, to Marchesi di Barolo’s Sarmassa 10 Years Limited Edition – ‘a melting pot of fragrance, freshness and balance’.

Barolo and food

Barolo’s tannic structure can be overpowering when young, but with time the tannins begin to integrate and soften.

Barolo works well with red meats and game, but be careful not to drown out older wines with strongly flavoured sauces. It’s also a fitting match for the region’s truffles.

The high acidity of Nebbiolo enables Barolo to cut through oily, fatty and salty ingredients, and reach equilibrium with high acidity foods such as tomato.

Barolo Crus: Brief guide

The vast majority of Barolo is produced in the five main communes: Barolo, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba.

In addition, each of these communes has several vineyard crus, which are notable for their individual characteristics – much like a grand or premier cru Burgundy. Both Barolo and Burgundy can be defined by their patchwork of communes, crus, and family-owned domaines.

There are strict laws designed to maintain the quality of Barolo. Every wine labelled as Barolo must be made from 100% Nebbiolo, and must be aged for at least 38 months before release – including a minimum of 18 months in oak. This increases to a minimum of 62 months if it’s labelled as a Barolo Riserva, with at least 18 of those months in oak.

See also: The Cru-isation of Barolo

Mature Barolo for Christmas:

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Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo report and top picks

Valentina Abbona was excited to show guests at this year’s Decanter London Fine Wine Encounter sold-out discovery tasting (entitled ‘Shades of Nebbiolo’) just what makes her family’s winery tick.

It’s largely the work of Marchese di Barolo which put the small town of Barolo on the map. The town became so entwined with Nebbiolo that it later lent its name to the entire Barolo DOCG area.

Early years

Marchesi di Barolo have been making wine for two centuries. The first ‘Barolo’ were vinified and matured by Marchese Carlo Tancredi Falletti di Barolo and his wife, Giulia, a French noblewoman.

In 1820, they began building cellars beneath their Cascina del Pillone residence in the centre of Barolo town. The insulation provided by the stone walls and subterranean design had the effect of turning what was traditionally a sweet wine into a dry wine by preventing the yeast from shutting down during the cold winters.

The wines, instead, fermented to dryness in large casks and were stored for a long time, according to records. They were sent to the Royal Court as well as new overseas markets, and the wine’s reputation soon began to flourish. Lorenzo Fantini, in his Monograph on Viticulture and Enology in the Province of Cuneo, published in 1883, wrote, ‘Moreover, who made this Nebbiolo famous? Everybody knows that the credit goes to the wines of the late Marchese di Barolo. When there was not even talk of exportation, thanks to his means and to his vast and high connections, he was able to make his wines known in countries that nobody else could reach. It was called simply Barolo because that was the village where it came from.’

Carlo and Giulia left no heirs, and so the estate passed to Opera Pia Barolo, a charity that Giulia had founded. In 1929, local Pietro Abbona purchased the property and ran it along with his brother, Ernesto and sisters, Marina and Celestina.

Marchesi di Barolo was one of the first to bottle cru Barolo, back in 1973, and today they produce a range of Nebbiolo wines from across the Langhe, some of which are matured in the remaining restored original 19th century casks – including the six wines in this Discovery Tasting lineup.

Shades of Nebbiolo

Like many producers in this region, Marchesi di Barolo don’t just produce Barolo: ‘It’s all about the shades,’ said Valentina on the varying expressions of Nebbiolo the estate produces. Valentina and her brother Davide are the sixth generation of the Abbonas at Marchese di Barolo, and she seems quite clear about the direction of the property: ‘Twenty years ago, the greatest innovations were in the cellar; today, the greatest innovations are surely in the vineyard.’

The tasting

The tasting began with Roccheri Nebbiolo d’Alba, from sandy soils in Roero. Fresh and bright, elegant but intense, it’s just as good Nebbiolo d’Alba should be, giving an idea of the style of the winery at a reasonable price.

Next, we skipped across the Tanaro River to taste a Barbaresco from the cru of Serragrilli in Neive. A gentle southwest-facing slope, the soils are sandy and silty over clay and limestone. Vinified in steel and cement then matured for 12 months in a combination of Slavonian oak and small French oak barrels, the wine is then blended and matured further in the large 19th century vessels before bottling. Succulent and tight with fine, chalky tannins, it’s a fairly transparent take on both location and vintage.

Valentina then introduced the first of the estate’s three Barolo crus, Coste di Rose. The steep east-facing site in the municipality of Barolo on calcareous, sandy and silty soils captures the cooler morning sun, avoiding the intense midday light for a more fragrant expression of Nebbiolo. Like the other crus, this matures for 18 months in a variety of barrel sizes, including the restored 19th century wood. Floral, structured yet elegant, this morning-sun Barolo features delicate, almost-racy cherry fruits.

The large hillside of Cannubi is one of Barolo’s best-known crus, situated on ‘Sant’Agata fossil marls’ comprised of clay, sand and limestone. It’s more earthy in character compared to Coste di Rose, rich and chewy with some balsamic freshness.

Southeast-facing Sarmassa in Barolo is situated on stony clay and limestone soils, which naturally limits the vigour of the vines. Sticky black fruits combine with big, grippy tannins for a powerfully structured rendition of Nebbiolo.

The final wine is a special bottling of Sarmassa released 10 years after the harvest; Valentina wanted to demonstrate the ageing potential of this great cru. The current release is 2012 but we tasted the 2007, an exotically spiced melting pot of fragrance, freshness and balance.

With the exception of the final wine, everything tasted was from the 2018 vintage. Valentina explained that, following the dry and very hot 2017, 2018 was a cooler, wet vintage. The soils of Coste di Rose retained a lot of this water, while the soils of Sarmassa were more efficient at draining it away.

Speaking of the characters of Serragrilli and Coste di Rose, she noted that, ‘sometimes we can say that Serragrilli is more like a Barolo and Coste di Rose is more like a Barbaresco.’

Questions

Fielding questions from the audience at the end of the tasting, Valentina was asked about how climate change is affecting them. She replied that one issue is that ‘it’s not just a difference in temperature but extremes in everything – when it’s dry, it’s very dry; when it’s wet, it can be like monsoons!’ She explained that one example of changes they have made is grassing between rows, to help retain water in the soil.

Another question on food matching led Valentina to answer, ‘with Barolo you can be creative because of the tannins and acidity.’ She cited Mexican cuisine as a good example, where the creamy textures of the food are cut through by the acidity in the wine. Valentina also singled out Chinese cuisine as a ‘creative’ example, saying that Barolo can be a great ‘palate cleanser’ as you go from dish to dish.

Marchesi di Barolo discovery tasting

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Alto Piemonte, an east-west wine territory in northern Piedmont, has attracted a good deal of critical attention over the past decade, especially with its Nebbiolo-based wines such as Gattinara, Ghemme and Lessona.

While quality is impressive with the best examples, there have been too many inconsistent releases, despite many favourable vintages in recent years; new plantings that are still a bit young along with a lack of experience with many winemakers are two important factors at play here.

If Alto Piemonte is to garner more acceptance among the trade as well as consumers, it needs an individual who combines excellent wines with a strong personality; given that, Christoph Künzli could be the area’s saviour.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Le Piane wines

Künzli, a Swiss native, is the proprietor of Le Piane, a small estate in the Boca zone, situated in eastern Alto Piemonte, slightly north of the Gattinara district.

While Künzli was working in the wine business in his native land back in the 1980s, he had the opportunity to taste wines made by Antonio Cerri at his estate near the town of Boca.

The most important wine here was Campo delle Piane, a blend of primarily Nebbiolo and Vespolina, along with small percentages of other local red varieties. Künzli had seen viticulture become less important over the years in Alto Piemonte, but realised the outstanding quality of the area’s wines, based on tasting examples from the 1960s and 1970s of this one remarkable red.

Künzli decided he would move to Alto Piemonte, with his sights set on purchasing Cerri’s estate, as he (Cerri) was going to let the estate come to its natural end upon the time of his death; he was in his eighties at the time and had no plans to sell.

After meeting numerous times with Cerri’s family, Künzli was able in 1998 to purchase the 0.8ha (two acre) vineyard at Boca, along with Cerri’s cellar and older vintages. Künzli set out to enlarge and update the estate; today, Le Piane consists of 8ha (20 acres) of vines and a small cellar in the town of Boca.

Künzli loves Alto Piemonte and notes its viticultural history. He points out that in the 1930s there were over 16,000ha (40,000 acres) of vines spread across this territory, making it one of the most densely planted in all of Italy.

But when the economy changed in the 1950s, and production costs dramatically increased, many locals either moved elsewhere or simply took up another occupation. ‘The self-confidence of the people in this region was lost,’ explains Künzli.

Künzli currently produces six wines, all but one red, from indigenous varietals, and while Boca is his signature wine, his other offerings are intriguing, displaying the restrained philosophy of his winemaking.

His Nebbiolo Colline Novaresi – the current vintage is 2021, a year that he is highly enthused about – is Nebbiolo at its purest and most charismatic, as it spends no time in wood.

The wine offers lovely bing cherry, peppermint and cranberry aromatics, with light tannins and alluring freshness. Produced from 30-year-old vines, this is a prime example of the simple charms that Alto Piemonte can deliver and Künzli loves to highlight.

Three of his red wines are simply labelled as vino rosso, as they fall outside the DOC regulations. Maggiorina is named for an ancient system of organising a vineyard with large chestnut poles that are inserted outwards, serving as a counterweight to the grape vines.

These poles that were planted in the 1910s and 1920s, and are still in use today, reach as high as five to six feet above the ground, giving these vineyards a look similar to an open cage; you’ve never seen anything like it.

Künzli has planted 15 different varietals in this system, ranging from Nebbiolo, Croatina and Vespolina, to Bonarda, Tinturie and the rare Dolcetto di Boca.

Piane, another vino rosso, gives Boca a run for its money as Künzli’s finest wine. Produced entirely from the oldest Croatina vines at the estate – some more than a century old – the wine is aged in a combination of tonneau and larger oak casks, and offers bright, juicy fruit characterised by notes of red plum and black cherry; the 2020 version will drink well for another six to eight years.

As for Boca, a blend of 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina, this is Künzli’s most heartfelt wine, one that has been rated not only as one of Alto Piemonte’s finest, but also one of the best red wines of Italy.

Impressively rich and with lively acidity, here is a Nebbiolo-based wine with a distinct spiciness that showcases the elegant tannins and gracefulness of the best examples in Piedmont.

Künzli recalls tasting his Boca with industry professionals during the first few vintages. ‘People would say, “Oh, it’s a new Nebbiolo.” But I would tell them it’s not a new Nebbiolo, this is a very old Nebbiolo with a lot of history and a lot of ageing.

‘Now, when I open my wines in a blind tasting, someone will say it’s like Burgundy. Somehow it’s true; when they get older, they get very silky, very elegant and very aromatic. Balsamic notes, red berries. It is something that goes a little bit towards Burgundy.’

Künzli recommends waiting at least 10 years to drink Boca, while proclaiming that the optimal consumption period is from 10-20 years, although some vintages keep even longer.

The 2019 is the newest version and was released to the market before the 2018, which Künzli declares to be ‘the best Boca I have ever made’. Noting the lengthy ageing potential of the 2018, Künzli will release this wine in the second half of 2023 or early 2024.

Künzli recently added a white wine simply labelled as Bianko, produced entirely from Erbaluce. His version offers a creaminess and intensity lacking in most examples made in Alto Piemonte.

It’s just one more illustration of the care and attention to detail that makes Le Piane one of the most vibrant properties in this area, something that the vintner wishes there were more of today.

‘There are very few top wineries, and too many medium-quality and mediocre wines,’ says Künzli. ‘Maybe 10 estates are successful like ours, while the rest will lower the awareness of Alto Piemonte as a great region, and so the hype of Alto Piemonte today is more in the mind than in the glass.’

Le Piane: tasting notes and scores for six wines from an Alto Piemonte great

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Proprieta Sperino in the Lessona DOC, Alto Piemonte, has been managed with great enthusiasm and flair for some years by Paolo de Marchi’s son, Luca.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 Proprieta Sperino’s wines

Paolo de Marchi was best known, of course, as the owner of the renowned Chianti Classico estate Isole e Olena until its very recent sale, but his ancestral property far to the north has nothing in common with the Tuscan winery except, Luca remarks, that each has to work with a difficult grape variety: Sangiovese at Isole e Olena and Nebbiolo at Proprieta Sperino.

In the 19th century, Alto Piemonte was one of Italy’s largest wine regions with 40,000 hectares under vine. But frequent hailstorms and the growing industrialisation of the area – its pure water made it ideal for textile production – led to a dramatic decline and within a few years, only 300 hectares remained under cultivation.

Lessona

Lessona is one of a number of DOCs within Alto Piemonte, although Gattinara and Ghemme are better known. By 1905, its vineyard surface had dropped from 300 to just two hectares. Facing extinction, it was the determination of its principal owners – the Sperino and Sella families – that helped it to survive. Even today, however, only 30 hectares are in production.

‘We still have bottles in our cellars from 1817,’ declares Luca. Bottling wines didn’t really become common in Italy until the 1960s, as almost everything was drunk locally, but Lessona was an exception. Vineyards were first documented here in the 15th century, and bottling was already routine in the 19th century, testifying to the quality and prestige of the region.

Lessona, the most westerly of the Alto Piemonte appellations, has maritime sandy soils at an elevation of around 300 metres, whereas other DOCs here tend to have more granitic soils. They all share a microclimate very different from that of the Langhe, where Barolo and Barbaresco are located – the vineyards here are sheltered by the Alps to the north, giving mild winters in which snowfall is a rarity. Yields are very low and although the tannins can equal those of Barolo, they are less perceptible because of the gentler structure of the wines.

The de Marchi family acquired the property here from their relatives, the Sperino family and the first vintage of the revived Sperino was 2004. In 2015, Luca introduced a single-vineyard Lessona wine from a cru called Covà. Despite its small one-hectare size, the grapes are selectively harvested with up to five pickings so as to include only the ripest fruit.

Sperino: In the cellar

De Marchi makes the estate’s wines in a very traditional way: complete destemming, fermenting the must in open-top vats with natural yeasts, employing occasional punchdowns for extraction, and ageing the wines for around 42 months in large used barrels.

Although Lessona has a remarkable capacity to age, Sperino’s wines are accessible young too. This is especially true of the basic ‘Uvaggio’ blend, which is composed of 80% Nebbiolo as well as Vespolina and Croatina. In contrast, the Lessona has a higher proportion of Nebbiolo and is given longer ageing.

In 2004, the de Marchis family purchased a plot of vines in the neighbouring DOC of Bramaterra, however it was not until 2018 that they felt happy with the wine and decided to release it. Previous vintages, they believed, were too rustic.

A tiny quantity of Cabernet Franc is also produced at the estate. It’s a variety that has become fashionable in areas such as Bolgheri, but Luca believes it is far better suited to the cooler climate of Alto Piemonte. In contrast to the Lessona DOC wines, it is aged in barriques, of which half are new, for a remarkable five years before bottling.

Luca’s excitement about Lessona is bolstered by the fact that some bottles from the mid-19th century are still drinkable. It suggests that the renown of Alto Piemonte in centuries past was no fluke, but that the region had an amazing potential for quality and longevity – a potential that was largely lost after wine production plummeted.

His view, shared by established producers such as Travaglini and Antoniolo, is somewhat validated by the arrival of prestigious newcomers such as Roberto Conterno of Barolo, who purchased the Nervi estate in Gattinara in 2018.

Stephen Brook tastes Proprieta Sperino’s wines:

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An old, worn wooden stool appears from the darkness of the cellar, upon which Luca Roagna arranges a perfectly rinsed pair of Zalto Burgundy glasses, a corkscrew and a glass spittoon. Then he walks through the tunnels of the cellar in search of the latest vintages of his prestigious crus, yet to be released: the 2016 and the 2006 Riserva; an outstanding combination.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 new Roagna releases

No label, no capsule, no DOCG strip. Not yet at least. Only the corks marked with the vintage and the vineyard name allow us to identify the wines, illuminated by a spotlight which makes the old stool appear as if an altar.

This is the austere, respectful, passionate and consistent style of Roagna, a family estate of rural origins now in its fourth generation with Luca at the helm, preceded by his father Alfredo, and his father before him, Giovanni, and dating back to Vincenzo and Rosa who at the end of the last century were among the first ever to produce Barbaresco.

Access to the estate is almost hidden below the road to Castiglione Falletto by Rocche di Castiglione’s steep vineyards. The last cru vinified at the estate, 2016 marks its inaugural release.

Roagna’s vineyards

Roagna owns or manages some of the top MGA of both Barolo and Barbaresco, including Pira (a monopole of the estate, whose ‘Vecchie Viti’ parcel was last planted in 1937), Pajé (purchased in 1953), Asili (purchased in 1961), Montefico (purchased in 1929) and the famed Crichet-Pajé. The age of these vineyards helps to explain the historical depth of this winery.

‘The authenticity of each unique expression comes from small differences in the subsoil. It is easy to understand how a fifty-year-old grapevine with roots growing down into many different sedimentary layers can draw unique nutrients and trace specific elements that give that vine distinct characteristics,’ says Luca.

These MGAs all share a common denominator of elegance, the style of the vineyards matched with a fiercely traditional winemaking style for the Nebbiolo grape, intended to produce powerful wines meant for the long haul. This, in my opinion, is the Roagna ‘equation’ for the outstanding quality of their wines.

There are, however, several other details which Luca Roagna considered the essence of his viticulture and winemaking. ‘I embrace the idea of the forest. Where all creatures living in the vineyard are allowed to play a unique role in the biodiversity of the terroir,’ he says. Roagna manages a total of 20 hectares of land of which 12ha are planted to vines. ‘We believe in allowing a completely natural cover crop without any mowing, which allows for many varieties of plants to coexist.’

The soil of the vineyards around the cellar in Barolo has barely been touched since 2001. It is not fertilised, and the winery promotes the idea of ‘lazy vines’: ‘We believe that the beauty of a wine begins with a concert played by thousands of unique grapevines, where each individual vine interprets their own personal subsoil.’ Luca uses a massal selection, but 10 years ago he also began trials replanting using seeds from an old vineyard.

Harvest time is dictated by the ripeness of the seeds. ‘When the seeds are mature, the grapes are mature: never before, never after. The seeds should be brown, woody and crispy.’ One-hundred kilograms of grapes are picked before the harvest for a pied de cuvée, which provides the indigenous yeasts for the fermentation.

In the cellar

The crushing is very gentle. ‘We don’t want to extract the green part of the grapes, so we prefer a kind of long infusion with which we could achieve all the complexity of Nebbiolo.’ The post-fermentation maceration lasts as long as two to three months, using the submerged-cap technique in neutral, untoasted oak vessels.

Luca ages his wine for at least two (Barolo) and three (Barbaresco) years longer than the minimum required by law, for a total of between five and eight years, depending on the wine. After maceration, his wines mature for between 30 and 48 months in the neutral oak barrels before being racked off to concrete tanks for the final stage of maturation. They are then bottled, with low levels of sulphur, no fining and no filtration.

Now Luca Roagna is ready to sell his 2016s from both appellations, plus his flagship long-aged Crichet Pajé Barbaresco, which is now on the 2013 vintage, and his Pira Riserva, now on the 2006 vintage. The name is derived from the Piemontese for ‘little hill’. Pajé is a south-southwest-facing vineyard, and the soil contains a particularly high content of calcareous marl and active limestone in the Crichet Pajé portion of the hill.

Along with his top bottlings (don’t underestimate Pajé ‘Vecchie Viti’ 2016, or Pira Riserva 2006), these great vineyards also provide the fruit for Luca Roagna’s ‘best buys’. His Langhe Rosso is made with two-thirds Pira and one-third Pajé, partially obtained from the press wine from his top wines – although his use of long macerations means there is not much press wine available. He produces around 10,000 bottles of Langhe Rosso at a relatively affordable price.

There is also a hidden gem produced by Luca Roagna: a Timorasso. His latest 2015 vintage is quite ripe, but the 2014 is an exceptional example of the tight minerality this rare white grape can achieve.

Roagna’s wines are sometimes criticised for a lack of precision, but Luca and his team have demonstrated their ability to make fine, ageable wines fiercely expressive of their surroundings while serving as one of the best examples of post-modern winemaking in the Langhe.

Roagna new releases tasted and rated:

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Alto Piemonte is the collective term for several small DOCs in northern Piedmont, situated almost 100 miles northeast of Alba. It includes Boca, Bramaterra, Faro, Gattinara, Ghemme, Lessona and Sizzano. Through the middle of this cluster of vineyards runs the Sesia river.

The major threat in this area today is hail. On 30 June 2021, ‘the hail in some vineyards did not even spare the grass,’ stated Lorella Zoppis Antoniolo, co-owner of Antoniolo winery in Gattinara. More and more producers are setting nets to protect against hail, even on small estates such as Tenuta Guardasola in Boca.

That said, Alto Piemonte is benefitting from a generally warmer climate which increases concentration and with it, the complexity of these great wines. Nebbiolo in Alto Piemonte unveils another layer due to the soils, which are assertively volcanic. In Bramaterra, for example, the wines are characteristically smoky, although this can also be found in wines from Gattinara, Boca and Lessona.

See also: Aldo’s latest-release Langhe Nebbiolo tasting notes

‘The increase in concentration is evident in vintages such as 2016. ‘This is a year with a great perspective,’ commented Leonardo Valenti, professor of viticulture and winemaking at the University of Milan and consultant at Torraccia del Piantavigna. ‘Wines from 2016 will give their best over the next year, now they have just been bottled. That vintage was not an ordinary harvest. It seemed to be delayed but instead finished great and recovered right in time. The last few weeks of ripening were perfect, which is why the wines are so great.’

The 2017 vintage clearly demonstrates how climate change is increasing the quality of wines from Alto Piemonte. While the vintage was too dry in the Langhe, the quantity of rainfall in Alto Piemonte turned it into something promising. There are, admittedly, dry tannins that appear in many of the wines, but nevertheless wines from the likes of Antoniolo, Travaglini and Cantina del Signore are all showing extremely well.

The warmer climate is very helpful for ripening Prunent, a biotype of Nebbiolo from the cool Ossola valley at the northermost part of Piedmont where the Garrone brothers are working with skill and passion, producing wines of great elegance. It’s also helpful for supporting varieties often blended with Nebbiolo – mostly in Boca and Bramaterra – such as Vespolina, Croatina and Uva Rara, improving the assertive peppery character of the former and the tannin quality of the two latter varieties. As in the Langhe, 2017 will be a vintage with a decidedly shorter drinking window, while 2018 is leaner and 2019 seems promising if not great; but it’s too raw right now to evaluate.

The key appellations of Alto Piemonte

Wines from Gattinara DOCG most of the time have the ability to match power with elegance.

Boca DOC is produced using Nebbiolo with the addition of Vespolina which brings a distinct spiciness to it.

Croatina – which is not allowed in Boca – is often a partner in Bramaterra DOC, with its pronounced fruit concentration, while Uva Rara is always good for softening wines.

While Ghemme DOCG, Fara DOC and Sizzano DOC are based on mostly sandy soils, Gattinara, Boca and part of Bramaterra are often referred to as ‘vini delle rocce’, or ‘wines from stone’, because of the minerality derived from the underlying volcanic or porfidic soils.

Aldo’s top Nebbiolo picks from Alto Piemonte

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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Defined as ‘the harvest of the dust’, 2017 was remembered as an impressively dry vintage.

‘Harvesting took place around 20 days early in Monferrato, with very low yields, and around ten days early in the Langhe, with below-average but satisfactory yields for Barolo and Langhe Nebbiolo, and a little poorer for Barbaresco’ reported winemaker Stefano Chiarlo.

Early picking and naturally lower yields due to the drought were among the main factors that made 2017 so challenging. The tannins are quite often a bit rustic and dry but most producers didn’t make the mistake of waiting for full phenolic ripeness.

‘In order to ensure elegance, freshness and avoid excessive alcohol content, we started harvesting ten days before the usual date [20-27 September]’ added Stefano Chiarlo. Indeed, the 2017s are in general quite fresh and enjoyable, rarely jammy or over-extracted.

The question is: does it make sense to produce a Riserva in such a year? The samples of Barbaresco Riserva 2017 presented at Nebbiolo Prima were few and far between – which starts to answer the question. For those producers who manage the best plots – old vines, proper canopy management, and more moderate east- or southeast-facing sites – the Riserva category deserves attention.

Some producers have tried to mask the angular tannins of the 2017 vintage under a veil of oak and the prestige of the ‘Riserva’ label, however the best wines show concentration and refinement – although they’re not for long ageing.

Aldo’s pick of Barbaresco Riserva 2017 wines:

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More elegant and less powerful in style, Barbaresco suffered much more in the lean 2018 vintage than Barolo. The hail and downy mildew, for those who were affected by it, further complicated things. In 2019, patchy hail was present again. Angelo Gaja, for instance, did not produce his estate’s top selections, Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildin. Although Angelo was not convinced, his sons persuaded him to blend the Sorì into the Barbaresco.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2019 wines

Barbaresco 2019

The vines sailed through a long, warm growing season with no damage from frost or hail. Hot spells in June and July were followed by a near-perfect harvest. Concentrated, complex wines.

4/5

Extremes

‘The growing season was characterised by extremes,’ said Enrico Delmondo, representative for the Consorzio Albeisa during a presentation of the 2019 vintage at the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba.

‘2019 was weird. After a super-dry winter with just three episodes of rainfall in three months and temperatures excessively over average, April and May worked against the trend with cooler temperatures and abundant rainfall. The 15th of May fell to a record low of 0°C, which was exceptionally cold.’

In June, Barbaresco experience a heatwave for four days, peaking at over 40°C. This was repeated at the beginning of July. The heatwaves were, however, mitigated by the water reserves from the previous months.

September was dry, with high diurnal temperature variations between night and day. Some vineyards were affected by two storms which hit early in the month, in some localities including hail.

All in all, 2019 was an exceptionally challenging vintage – almost heroic. There are, however, several reasons to consider it fairly successful.

With the warm winter, Nebbiolo bud-burst occurred very early, around 5 March. The constant flux between warm and cool temperatures combined with a regular September extended the growing season to a total of 200 days, while the mid-May frost reduced yields by 5 to 10%.

According to Delmondo, the musts showed higher acidity compared to the 2018 vintage.

Although we are yet to taste the finished Barolo 2019s, it’s likely that the Barbaresco 2019s could end up being more concentrated thanks to the fact that Barbaresco is typically more exposed to Mediterranean winds. These were exceptionally strong in 2019 where, in Roero for example, vines were bent over. Meanwhile, Barolo, is sheltered by the La Morra and Monforte ridges. In combination with the high temperatures in 2019, these winds helped to concentrate the grapes by acting as a drying agent.

This concentration seems to be a breath of fresh air after the light 2018 vintage. Such vintages allow for a deeper look at the varied terroir profiles within Barbaresco: the elegance of MGAs such as Asili are complemented by more concentration, while cooler expressions such as Ovello – often too austere in the leaner vintages – shine with a refined structure for ageing.

Thus in the end, the wines show good acidity, an outstanding ripeness of tannins and overall complexity, expressing the minerality that is accredited to a longer growing season.

Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2019 recommendations:

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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Barolo Riserva 2016 vintage report: 20 top picks by quality and value

Barolo is dominated by pricey bottles but there’s still relative value to be found.

The wines below all come in at under £50/€60/$70 retail which, although isn’t exactly pocket money, is still a great proposition for Nebbiolo from one of Italy’s premier denominations.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a selection of top value Barolo 2018 wines

In his 2018 vintage report, Aldo Fiordelli notes that ‘the Barolo 2018 vintage has produced some delicious, open-knit and approachable wines due to moderate acidity and ripe tannins, as well as good complexity displayed in the top examples. But mostly, it’s just very tasty!’

He does warn, however, that ‘village-level Barolo is of variable quality; many are excessively dilute.

The best wines show sweet tannins, concentration and a degree of elegance.’ This dilution, he explains, is the result of producers trying to make up for a shortfall in the drought-affected 2017 vintage by pushing yields further than perhaps they should have.

There are, of course, exceptions to this rule. Of Bera’s Barolo, he says: ‘Despite the brightness and the open-knit character, there is no lack of tension.’ And of Massolino’s Barolo, he says: ‘While at the village level in 2018 we seem to find more dilute wines, Massolino should be considered an exception because they produced just a village Barolo, a blend of all their MGAs, including Vigna Rionda.’

Aldo does, however, make the case that in general ‘Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba 2019 or 2020 could be better picks than the village-level Barolo 2018s’.

As a result, almost all of the value picks below are MGA-level Barolo – Piedmont’s version of the Burgundian cru system.

Top-value Barolo 2018

95 points

• Luigi Pira, Margheria, Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba) – £44 / $68

94 points

• Massolino, Barolo – £33 / $39
• Mauro Molino, Gallinotto, Barolo – £45 / $50
• Brezza Sarmassa, Barolo – £46 / $70

93 points

• Monchiero, Rocche di Castiglione, Barolo (Castiglione Falletto) £39
• Schiavenza, Cerretta, Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba) – £41 / $69
• Marco Marengo, Brunate Barolo – £46

92 points

• Bera, Barolo – £37
• Elvio Cogno, Cascina Nuova, Barolo (Novello) – £39 / $49
• Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Bussia, Barolo (Monforte d’Alba) – £46

90 points

• Dosio, Serradenari, Barolo (La Morra) – £38
• Parusso Perarmando, Barolo (Monforte d’Alba) £39 / $52
• Renato Ratti, Marcenasco, Barolo (La Morra) £45 / $45

Prices were accurate at the time of publishing.

Aldo’s best value Barolo 2018 picks

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The 2016 vintage is one of the best in Barolo, indeed since at least 2010 which is comparable in the exceptional quality produced in terms of both Barolo and Castiglione Falletto.

Many previous vintages have tended to favour a specific appellation or soil type; Tortonian soils versus Serravallian soils; cooler or warmer expositions and so on whereas the 2016 wines seem to have performed well across the whole region.

Scroll down to see the Barolo Riserva 2016 tasting notes and scores

Barolo 2016

2016 was an extraordinarily regular vintage. Earlier bud-burst coupled with a delay caused by a cooler spring and warmer August and September rendered the growing season extremely long. The sound weather during the harvest resulted in wines showing great concentration and restraint, an amazing ripeness of tannins, and tension suitable for the long haul.

‘One could not consider 2016 anything less than a great vintage,’ explained Alessandro Masnaghetti in his vintage report on barolomga360.it, ‘particularly considering such unanimous agreement. The wines show the classic traits of the best vintages of the past combined with a balance, completeness and depth that is truly rare. To my palate many of the wines are already approachable today, although I’m sure that not everyone will agree on this point.’

What is interesting to note is the vintage’s character, which is austere like great Barolo of the past – built for the long haul – but balanced due to the noble nature of the tannins.

The quality is so all-encompassing that it’s difficult to say which side of Barolo performed better.

In my opinion, however, it is the eastern side of Monforte and Serralunga which benefitted more from this tannic refinement, mostly in terms of short-term drinking – although I must admit my general preference for this side of Barolo!

On-going debate

When tasting these Barolo Riserva, most of the wines are clearly not ready to drink yet – even after the stipulated five years of cellar ageing, of which at least 18 months must be in oak.

What is happening in the Langhe is a two-sided debate: on one side, a shorter oak ageing requirement is desired; on the other side there is a tendency to allow the name ‘Riserva’ for special cuvées aged longer than the minimum guaranteed by the appellation.

Marco Parusso, Domenico Clerico with his ‘Per Cristina’, Luca Roagna and many others, for example, are releasing Barolo Riserva after 10 years.

Future

Looking ahead, the next great vintage after 2016 will likely be 2019, which looks very promising. The Riserva will not be released until 2025, however.

Aldo’s Barolo Riserva 2016 recommendations:

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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Australian Dave Fletcher grew up in Adelaide and was destined for a career in engineering before fate led him in a different direction. After stints working in Burgundy and various wine regions in Australia, he felt increasingly drawn to Piedmont. He moved to the region in 2012 to take up a job as winemaker at Piedmont’s Ceretto winery. Today he also makes wines under his own label, Fletcher Wines, from his home base in Barbaresco’s former train station, where he lives with his young family.

‘After I finished studying wine at university I wanted to go and do a harvest in Burgundy – all the students wanted to head there to do a stage – and I managed to land a job at Domaine Chevrot in Maranges. I had no idea what to expect, but the magic of harvesting in the morning with family and friends, having lunch together and then making wine into the evening blew my mind. It was an absolute game-changer that set my heart in motion and made me want to be a wine producer working in Europe.

‘Nebbiolo was the spark that lit the fire. I had no intention of living in Piedmont but Nebbiolo drew me to the region – and it’s so beautiful that it’s hard not to think about settling here. It’s surrounded by mountains, but it’s only an hour away from the sea – and the food is fantastic.

‘While there are definite differences between Barolo and Barbaresco, from a big picture perspective they’re very similar. The weather is often the same, the aspects are the same and you find the same kinds of soil. The impact of winemaker decisions about things like the use of barrique versus botte or concrete for ageing, long macerations or short ones, the influence of natural ferments and elements like that, are so strong that these tend to dominate terroir differences.

‘Although people think some grapes can’t be transplanted, I think Nebbiolo has the potential to make great wines outside Piedmont. It’s been successfully planted in Washington State, Napa Valley and Central California and all major wine regions in Australia. As well as in Valtellina, Tuscany and Sardinia, so it can definitely adapt to a range of environments.

‘The more Nebbiolo is planted in Australia, the more interest there is from Australian winemakers to come here and work stages, but few have settled here. Unless you have a European passport, it’s not easy to get a residency permit. We were fortunate to have Ceretto sponsor us, but the bureaucracy is too hard for most small producers to deal with.

‘After we moved here, people were welcoming but cautious about interacting with us on a business level. Coming to work with Ceretto helped, but it wasn’t until we invested in buying the station and building a winery here that people became convinced that we were here to stay and started to open up.

‘There’s always a certain wariness about new people with new ideas moving into an area like Piedmont and I initially found it difficult to buy grapes. But now people trust us and I get calls in the run-up to harvest from people who want to sell fruit to me. Our friendships in the region have blossomed over the years.

‘There’s a lot of pressure to achieve perfection at Ceretto every year and to maintain the family’s long-standing history in winemaking. My job when I came on as winemaker was to ensure that there was a continuity with what they had already achieved, but also to strengthen the link with their past. I helped to push them onto a path to decrease the use of oak a little further, to embrace what the terroir had to say.

‘When I’m making my own wines the pressure comes off, tradition takes a back seat and I focus on making the wines based on how I see them being best. It’s more about what I want the wines to say rather than blindly following the trends in the region. There’s a beauty in not having a legacy of the past behind me.

‘I’ve always dreamed of making Nebbiolo in several places: Australia is one, but I’m also looking at producing a wine in California. But I miss the sea, so I’d like to make an awesome salty Vermentino on the Ligurian coast – it would mean I could swim in the sea more often.’

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Borgogno, one of Piedmont’s oldest wineries, boasts a proud history. The estate was founded in 1761, and it was a Borgogno wine that was served at the official dinner to celebrate the unification of Italy a century later, in 1861.

Cesare Borgogno was a key character in the estate’s story. He took control of the winery in 1920 and, by the time of his death in 1968, Borgogno’s wines were exported around the world.

The estate’s reputation, founded upon long cellaring, is something that Cesare instigated, holding back half of the annual production of Barolo for extended ageing of at least 20 years. A direct consequence of his programme is that Borgogno claims the largest library collection of Barolo in the region.

Cesare left the estate to his niece, Ida Boschis, who ran Borgogno with her husband, Franco before passing it to her two sons, Cesare and Giorgio.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Borgogno wines

When the Farinetti family, of Eataly fame, purchased the estate from Cesare and Giorgio in late 2007, they were committed to continuing the traditional legacy of this historic estate. This included long macerations (up to 50 days in the case of the Barolo Riserva) and long ageing in large Slavonian oak.

Cesare and Giorgio continued making the wines under the Farinettis until 2009, while Oscar Farinetti’s son, Andrea, attended the oenological school in Alba.

It may have seemed crazy to some onlookers that Oscar handed over the management of such an historic winery to 20-year-old Andrea, following his graduation in 2010. At the time he had little experience other than what he had learnt at the oenological school and from time working alongside the Boschis brothers.

A decade of change at Borgogno

Andrea’s youthful perspective and enthusiasm, combined with his sympathetic approach to the traditions of the estate, led to some important changes for Borgogno.

The estate’s first white wine, a Riesling named Era Ora, was released in 2012.

Then, in 2013, Andrea reverted to the exclusive use of traditional concrete fermentation vessels. From then on, the wines would also rely on spontaneous fermentation rather than inoculation.

In 2015, Andrea began the conversion of all the estate’s vineyards to organic certification. He also acquired 3ha of vines in Tortona which would soon go on to produce an experimental Timorasso.

In 2016, the historical cellars were restored, including some of the original concrete fermentation vats. That same year, 11ha were purchased in Madonna di Como, near Alba, taking the estate’s holdings to around 40ha (30ha of which are planted to vines).

Andrea believes in long macerations for his range of Barolo, with the Liste cuvée spending up to three months on skins. He says that the longer contact time, rather than extracting more, actually allows compounds to leach back into the skins.

Liste forms around 70% of the blend for the Barolo Riserva, Borgogno’s flagship wine. Today, its historical style not only contrasts but complements the energy and innovation Andrea has injected into the estate.

Derthona Timorasso

‘Timorasso is better in the hot vintages than the fresh vintages,’ explains Andrea at a tasting hosted by UK importers, Oeno. ‘And the Colli Tortonesi is three degrees warmer than the Langhe.’ This is where he purchased 3ha in 2015, which he planted with the indigenous yet rare Timorasso.

Andrea recalls a dinner with other producers in the Langhe, ‘like La Paulée in Burgundy.’ Bringing experimental bottles of his new white when his peers were bringing back vintages of their top reds was a brave move, but it seems he judged it right. ‘Because it was white, it was the first wine to be served, so I immediately had their attention!’

Although Andrea was not the first to produce Derthona Timorasso (that accolade goes to Walter Massa, who spearheaded its revival in the 1980s), Andrea proudly jokes that it wasn’t long after tasting his version that his neighbours started buying land in the Colli Tortonesi.

The 2019 vintage is Borgogno’s first Timorasso to be made with 100% estate-owned grapes – previous vintages had used grapes from growers with whom the winery has longstanding relationships.

Spontaneous fermentation in concrete is followed by 10 months on its lees in stainless steel tanks with no batonnage, then at least seven months in the bottle before release.

No Name

The No Name project arose as a protest against what Andrea describes as the ‘bureaucracy’ that forced the estate to declassify a cask of 2005 Nebbiolo destined for its Barolo.

Andrea points out that Barolo’s stereotype as a heavily tannic wine which needs time to become drinkable can put people off – No Name’s aim, therefore, is to introduce (or reintroduce) drinkers to Nebbiolo without any label prejudice.

The blend is 60%-70% Langhe Nebbiolo, plus portions from the estate’s five Barolo vineyards, including those in Cannubi, Fossati and Liste. It’s fermented in concrete and matured for two years in wood, as opposed to the longer maceration times and four years in wood for the estate’s array of Barolo. This makes for a more immediately accessible wine.

‘We don’t want a wine like our Barolo,’ explains Andrea.

Selezione Cesare

Selezione Cesare is the beneficiary of the ageing programme Cesare Borgogno implemented in the 1920s, holding back 20,000 bottles of each important vintage for at least 20 years of ageing.

A century later, Borgogno is now blessed with enviable library stocks which enables the estate to makes wines such as this.

A blend of three vintages, Selezione Cesare is an extremely rare wine in the Borgogno range (only 60 bottles of the current release have been allocated to the UK) and in the wine world overall.

Other notable examples of a multi-vintage blend include Vega Sicilia and Penfold’s G3. The 82-03-14 is the fourth edition to be released, making use of the fantastic 1982 Riserva, which I tasted separately.

If you’re lucky enough to spot this on a restaurant list, snap it up and worry about the bill later!

‘I want to make the perfect Barolo,’ states Andrea; he’s not far from achieving his goal.

A taste of Borgogno: six wines going back to 1978

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The Italian influence on California winemaking runs deep and spreads wide; from land to winery, terroir to taste, production to marketing. The sonorous Italian family and grape names have eased themselves into the Californian lexicon as easily and ubiquitously as their cuisine.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 17 top Italian-style Californian wines

Italians were among the first European settlers in California, spreading evenly south to north and involved in religious orders and the fishing communities. They navigated the Gold Rush by providing services to the mining communities, forging fortunes by establishing banks, controlling politics, offering nourishment, both for the body – in the form of fish and agricultural produce – and the soul, through theatre and opera.

Successful integration and assimilation were key. The Italian settlers becoming instigators of progress has benefited California at large – and especially the wine industry.

California offers a climate suitable to sustain viticulture, with landscapes as varied, and soils as fragmented and as rich in potential as Italy’s original oenotria. Such a landscape was bound to attract the first settlers and farmers, just as it continues to sustain new generations today.

The Early Days

The Italian Swiss Colony, established in 1881 in Asti, Sonoma County, to give Swiss and Italian immigrants a leg up on the wine ladder, quickly became one of the most important wine brands from California.

Many immigrants purchased or planted vineyards, some of which have become synonymous with absolute quality, the fruit now sourced assiduously by winemakers in search of site, varietal and self-expression.

Such vineyards include the Dusi vineyard in Paso Robles, planted to Zinfandel by Dante Dusi and his brothers in 1945. The Monte Rosso vineyard in the Mayacamas, named after its red volcanic soil by Louis M Martini when he purchased the land in 1938, produces a supremely elegant and bold Cabernet to this day. The Sangiacomo family, originating from Genoa in the northwest and farmers for generations, now owns about 650ha, comprising 15 different vineyards across Sonoma County, all partitioned into blocks and farmed individually.

In return, California has provided for them an expanding population, and communities able to sustain wine consumption alongside their food intake – a pairing close to any Italian’s heart. More widely, the US offers a marketplace with a seemingly insatiable appetite for the new and the sweet. Such a landscape was bound to attract entrepreneurs with a feel for flavour.

Family Values

Name any highly commercial, influential and successful wine brand-building family in California, and chances are they will have Italian roots. Consider Riboli and its remarkable San Antonio winery, the last in production in downtown Los Angeles. Then there are Coppola, Gallo, Mondavi, Sebastiani and Trinchero, to name just a few.

These families, with their belief in traditional, generational farming and ownership, have embedded themselves in the very fabric of the American wine scene. They did not just navigate the devastation by Pierce’s disease [bacteria Xylella fastidiosa] in the 1890s, Prohibition in the 1920s and the bureaucratic nightmare that followed its repeal, but led the charge in establishing California’s general reputation in the field and in the market for both qualitative and innovative wines.

This leadership has not been limited to an Italian-only mindset, nor just to Italian grape varieties or wine styles. Their eyes have been firmly set on a wider community. Italian-owned wine businesses have been instrumental in developing America’s less tradition-bound, more playful, flavourful and experimental wine offerings. They have offered the American consumer a new way of enjoying the art of wine, just as the Italian masters Titian and Tintoretto brought vermilion red and dazzling ultramarine blue pigments to a Renaissance Venice.

Bringing Expertise

Some, such as Riboli and Gallo, have kept a close eye on flavour, driving a populist rather than place-driven wine business, concentrating a little less on terroir and more on taste. They have harnessed the benefits of a climate that can produce typically softer, riper, fruitier, sweeter grapes and added outstanding technical expertise to ensure consistency. Brands such as Stella Rosa and Apothic have introduced an array of new, bold flavours through their sweet, sparkling, fruit-flavoured, fun, moreish and immensely successful wines.

At the premium end of the market, many have chosen to make their reputation with varieties suited to place in the valleys, and in so doing they have achieved promotion, to the wider world, of whole regions as a heartland of highest quality. Wineries with a history of Italian ownership – such as Gallo-owned Louis M Martini, Mondavi and Francis Ford Coppola’s Inglenook in the Napa Valley, and Seghesio and Pedroncelli in Sonoma – have brought their winemaking expertise to bear on varieties such as Zinfandel (identical to the Italian Primitivo but with origins going back still further to Croatia and the Tribidrag variety) and Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Feast for the Senses

Other winemakers – some with Italian ancestry, others not – continue to pursue a more authentic Italian experience with a California slant. At Villa Ragazzi, Michaela Rodeno and her late husband Gregory were the first to plant Sangiovese in the Napa Valley in 1985.

A false start with Nebbiolo led to success with Sangiovese, garnering early admiration in 1993 from the Marchese Piero Antinori himself, who considered their Sangiovese to be one of the very best expressions of the grape from around the world at the time. Today, their wines continue to offer appetising refreshment, with ripe red fruits cushioned by open-weave tannins, and a wonderful peppery sapidity tempered by the softening effect of Napa warmth.

The Pedroncellis, now approaching their centenary as vineyard owners and winemakers in Sonoma County, make a slightly bolder-styled Sangiovese than Villa Ragazzi. With a lick of spice and fresh herbs, it’s a bottle absolutely made for the dinner table. Travelling south to Santa Barbara, Stolpman’s Ballard Canyon Sangiovese develops even greater aromatic potential, redolent of roses in full bloom and ripe red stone fruit. Its La Croce blend of Sangiovese and Syrah billows with an almost incense-like intensity.

These rather wonderful aromas are a signature of others in Santa Barbara, a county that has offered winemakers steeped in the culture of food – including Alison Thomson and Paolo Barbieri MS with his wife Erin Kempe – inspiration for their craft.

Thomson established Lepiane Wines in 2013, named in honour of her great grandfather Luigi A Lepiane, who left Calabria for California and a new life for his family. Her Nebbiolo is an example of compelling perfumed perfection. Thomson embraces Italian grapes’ natural acidity, placing importance on being able to share wines together with food. She finds delight in introducing wine lovers to new styles and flavour profiles, such as her Malvasia with its distinctive phenolics and aromatically expressive honeysuckle, almond blossom and citrus zest.

Similarly, Barbieri and Kempe’s wines, under the Barbieri label, immediately captivate the imagination through the nose before a sip even passes the lips. Barbieri departed Rome, his birthplace, when he was 22, eventually settling in the US and putting his sommelier exposure to the world’s classic wines to good use in his own wine range. Kempe also came to wine through the culinary world, and together they now make wines from both Italian and French varieties that are feasts for the senses.

Perfect Assimilation

Sourcing Italian varieties remains a challenge, however, despite California now growing more than 120 different grape varieties. There is recognition that such diversity is not only a boon to marketing and the increasingly sophisticated on-trade lists serving California’s wealthy tourist industry, but a sop to climate change.

The lighter, brighter, lower-alcohol wines and chillable reds that can be made from Italian varieties such as Vermentino, Frappato and Nerello – the darlings of sommeliers – also have the advantage of retaining their acidity even in heat spikes.

What makes Italian Californian wines, in their many different guises, so deliciously appealing, however, is their perfect assimilation. Without losing sight of their inherited signatures and structural architecture – namely their aromatic complexity, verve and sappiness – most are identifiably Californian.

Just as generations of Italian émigrés to California have recalibrated their identities in order to emphasise their new home, so the wine industry they have assiduously helped to build and promote, from the roots upwards, is proudly American.

See tasting notes and scores for 17 top Italian-style Californian wines

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In Barolo’s tradition of blending from different zones, Serralunga d’Alba is prized for providing tannic backbone. It has a reputation for stern and muscular wines yet, as commanding as they can be, they are not without finesse.

Scroll down to see Michela’s tasting notes and scores for 10 top Serralunga wines

Lay of the Land

The township stretches out over Barolo’s easternmost ridge, running approximately two-thirds the length of the denomination. In its northern reaches, Serralunga borders Castiglione Falletto to the west and Diano d’Alba to the east. Making its way south, it looks across to Monforte d’Alba in the west.

Bisected by a road that runs atop the ridge, Serralunga can be divided into a more expansive, luminous western flank and a narrower eastern side. It is further convoluted by secondary ridges that extend westward from the main one, making for changes in exposure as the hills twist and turn.

From the north, slopes rise like a series of waves that become progressively higher. Starting at 200m, Serralunga reaches its highest altitude of 440m at Cascina Badarina and Cascina Francia in the south.

Terroir

Serralunga sits on Barolo’s oldest soil which hails from the Serravallian era (11 to 13 million years ago). Known as the Lequio Formation, compacted sand alternates with layers of gray silty marls. Intensely white in colour, it is high in calcium carbonates and, in some areas, iron oxides which lend a reddish hue. In the northern part of Serralunga, the younger Tortonian era Sant’Agata fossil marl and Diano sandstone creep in.

With 352ha, Serralunga boasts the third largest extension of Barolo vineyards (after La Morra and Monforte d’Alba). Beyond the 29 producers headquartered in the township, many more from neighbouring communes have plots here, often bottling them under one of Serralunga’s 39 Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA). However, not every vineyard is associated with an MGA. ‘While Barolo and Monforte established crus that essentially encompass the entire communes, Serralunga and Castiglione Falletto worked out the best single sites within their borders,’ says cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti.

Fontanafredda is at the northern gateway into Serralunaga. This 58.42ha MGA is the township’s largest, consisting of several hills. It belongs exclusively to the historical Fontanafredda estate which crafts its excellent flagship La Rosa label from a south to southwest-facing amphitheatre at the cru’s highest elevations.

All points of the compass

Continuing south, San Rocco then Baudana straddle Serralunga’s main ridge with the best plots located on the western flank. Directly to the east is the hill of Cerretta. The 360 degrees of exposure, varying gradients and mix of soil make for subtle differences. Overall, the wines tend to be sturdy, though they are often immediate and generous in florals reminiscent of Castiglione Falletto. More imposing in structure are the wines of the Prapò MGA, a well-exposed amphitheatre on the south side of Cerretta.

The next westerly ridge takes in the highly regarded Gabutti, Parafada and Lazzarito MGAs. The latter, which is largely comprised of twin southwest oriented amphitheatres, has a reputation for particularly austere Barolo with an iron grip that doesn’t yield willingly. The wines are exceptionally cellar worthy, exhibiting wonderful earthy intricacies. Among the many fine names in Lazzarito are Fontanafredda’s Casa E. di Mirafiore, Famiglia Anselma, Vietti, Ettore Germano and up-and-comer Guido Porro.

On the eastern side lies Brea. Its 11ha are solely owned by Brovia who has forged a reputation with the estate’s refined Ca’ Mia bottling. Rising above Brea from 370 to 405m, Bricco Voghera gives plusher wines. It is from this MGA that Azelia selects its only Riserva.

Reaching the town of Serralunga itself, the elegant 14th century castle gives magnificent bird’s-eye views of the whole region. The western ridge extending from the village encompasses the west to south-facing swath of Margheria, Marenca and Rivette. The last two provide Gaja’s intensely concentrated Sperss.

Just around the next corner is the famed 10ha Vignarionda (also spelt Vigna Rionda). Though not included as a top site in Renato Ratti’s seminal map of 1976, today it is one of Barolo’s most revered. Vignarionda is best viewed from Monforte’s Castelletto MGA to the west. Long after the aforementioned has fallen into shade, Vignarionda’s south through west oriented vineyards are bathed in the warm afternoon sun. On classic calcareous Serralunga soil, Vignarionda gives perfumed, powerful, textured wines that require patience – hence Massolino and Oddero releasing a Riserva up to 10 years after the harvest. Other esteemed names include Luigi Oddero, Luigi Pira and Ettore Germano.

The stellar south

The southern reaches of Serralunga include some of its most illustrious sites. On yet another western ridge, the predominantly south-facing Ornato yields chewy, robust, hearty wines. While it is most famously associated with Pio Cesare, the lesser-known Palladino estate is well worth seeking out.

Adjacent to Ornato, the similarly exposed Falletto rises steeply to 420m. Bruno Giacosa purchased this 9ha cru in its entirety in 1982. Notwithstanding any ups and downs at the estate over the years, Falletto remains one of Serralunga’s superlative MGAs and in its greatest years Rocche del Falletto Riserva is the epitome of self-assured grace.

Last on this tour is Francia, which reaches Serralunga’s highest heights. Facing mostly west to southwest, it is generously lit with sunshine which allows ripening in cooler vintages. Conversely, breezes and altitude help mitigate excessive temperatures in hot ones. Solely owned by the Giacomo Conterno estate, Francia has been the source for Monfortino since 1978, although from 2015 it also includes fruit from neighbouring Arione.

Serralunga’s is an embarrassment of MGA riches. It is as unfeasible for producers to make separate labels of each as it is to describe them all. As such, Serralunga is one of Barolo’s most prolific in terms of commune bottlings. Identified as Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, these wines knit together multiple sites for magnificent panoramas of the township.

It is equally privileged when it comes to vintages. ‘The fortune of Serralunga is its protected position and elongated shape which favours all exposures,’ says Veronica Santero at Palladino. Besides being a top performer in 2016 and 2015, Serralunga’s best wines demonstrate freshness and balance despite the arid heat in 2017, and beautiful ripeness in the cooler 2013 vintage. Even in soggy 2014, some of the region’s most iconic wines were justifiably bottled.

See tasting notes and scores for 10 top Serralunga wines

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