No stranger to sweltering New York summers, Sydney Fusto finds relief in zesty, high-acid wines. 'You want something that’s going to really wake up your palate and get your saliva moving, and the key is really fresh, zippy acidity,' she says.

With regards to seasonal food pairings, Fusto shares her love of Sauvignon Blanc, especially when sipped with citrus, cilantro, or anything with a hint of spice (think ceviche, crudo, and other raw bar favorites). If grilled meats and veggies are on the menu, she looks to darker-hued rosés and chillable reds, especially those made from Grenache, Gamay, and other high-acid varieties.

For crisp summer produce, crunchy pickled veggies, or when she’s really not sure what she’s in the mood for, Fusto usually lands on easy-drinking bubbles.

'When I don’t know what to drink, I reach for something sparkling,' she says, highlighting the versatile and spunky personality of Prosecco.

From budget-friendly bubbly to refreshing whites, rosés and chillable reds, Fusto’s following bottle recommendations promise to keep you satiated all summer long.

Fusto's five wines to sip this summer

Sommariva Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut NV

'When it's 100+ F in New York and I'm sticking to my clothes, I am not looking to think too hard, ball out, or show off–I want bubbles that are easy-going, juicy and straightforward,' she says. The answer? An ice-cold bottle of high-quality Prosecco, particularly the Superiore Brut NV from Sommariva. 'It has the lip-smacking tart juiciness of a fresh Granny Smith apple, delicate white floral aromas and zingy acidity to keep everything playful and bright,' Fusto says. 'Think of it like the sparkling equivalent of a refreshing glass of lemonade. It’s so pleasurable, you could drink it all day long–no need to be super cerebral about this.'

Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024

In the words of Fusto, haters need not apply here. 'Sauvignon Blanc is "that girl" and always will be,' she says, citing the signature herbaceousness and distinct citrus notes synonymous with wines made from it. Additionally, Fusto notes that Sauvignon Blanc-based wines typically have high acidity, making them perfect for summer fare, as well as cracking open and sipping solo on a hot day. 'I’ve been drinking Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc nonstop, and I even pour it by the glass at Manhatta – yes, I said New Zealand,' she says, highlighting the wine’s unique, savory curry leaf and Thai basil aromas, as well as its long, salty finish. 'It’s a showstopper,' she affirms.

Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2023

Rosé and summer go hand in hand, and for Fusto, Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2023 has become a go-to. Crafted entirely from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape, this vibrantly colored wine oozes with flavors of pomegranate, sour cherry, blood orange, and Mediterranean herbs–though don’t let its dark hue fool you. Contrary to the numerous myths surrounding rosé, darker-hued bottles don’t mean sweet or heavy. 'The wine is lifted and drinkable like a white, but has more stuffing and concentration than a lighter, less extracted rosé style,' she says. 'I highly recommend it with barbecue.'

Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024

During her time at Cote, Fusto discovered her passion for pairing rosé and grilled meats, especially less rich cuts. 'I used to be more or less indifferent to rosé, as I would typically reach for a chilled red if I wanted some substance; however, I’ve since come to enjoy the summer spoils of a juicy grilled skirt or hangar steak with a darker, more full-bodied rosé,' she says, emphasizing that textured, fuller-bodied expressions produced with a bit more extraction – like Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024 – work best here. Crafted from a Mourvèdre-dominant blend, the wine’s structured body and complex notes of red fruits, juicy citrus, and salty sea air come to life when paired with equally savory summer meats.

Domaine Giacometti 'Sempre Cuntenu' 2024

Come warm weather months, Fusto reveals that Manhatta’s customers can’t get enough of chillable reds, though not all bottles are created equal. 'A chillable red wine should have a higher acidity-to-tannin profile (or softer tannins in general) and a fruit-forward, juicy flavor profile,' she says. While Beaujolais is a classic option, she’s been reaching for light Corsican reds made from the Sciacarello grape. 'This bottle offers a great bang for your buck and absolutely sings with a chill,' she says, stating that wine has become a non-negotiable fridge staple for her. 'It's great with food, it's great alone. Sempre Cuntenu literally translates to "happy wine" in the Corsican dialect, and I couldn't agree more.'

Summer is made for exploration

Above all, Fusto states that summer is one of the best times to experiment with regions and varieties, thanks to the season’s light-hearted, laid-back nature.

Currently, she’s diving deeper into the wine regions of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, as well as the appellations of coastal California. 'There are a ton of premium producers in these areas, and you’re also going to get a lot more value for your money,' she says. 'Trust me, there are so many bangers to be found at solid entry points.'

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If there's one cuvée every Champagne lover dreams of tasting at least once in their life, it's Salon. So imagine the chance to taste not one, but five vintages of this legendary wine, produced only 45 times since the house was founded in 1905.

And what an opportunity to enjoy these five wines alongside five more Blanc de Blancs cuvées from Champagne Delamotte, Salon's sister house.

This was the exclusive opportunity afforded some 80 lucky attendees who got tickets to this sold-out masterclass – the first one of the day at the 2026 Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York City, held on Saturday 6 June in the beautiful surrounds of the Manhatta on the 60th floor.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the 10 Salon and Delamotte Champagnes at the DFWE NYC 2026 masterclass

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs NV (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2018 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2014 (magnum)

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs 2012 (magnum)

Delamotte, Collection Blanc de Blancs 2008 (magnum)

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2015

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2013

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2012

Salon, Cuvée S, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2007

Salon, Cuvée S, Edition 2020, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 1997

Sister houses with distinct identities

Hosted by Cristian Rimoldi, the export director for both Delamotte and Salon, which have been part of the Laurent-Perrier group since 1988, this rare and exceptional tasting was a deep-dive into the complex and nuanced language of Chardonnay and the grands crus of the Côte des Blancs through the lens of these iconic sister houses

Through 10 remarkable and defining expressions of these outstanding terroirs, Rimoldi illustrated the commonalities between the two house’s approaches, as well as their distinct identities.

As background for the attendees, Rimoldi explained that the same technical teams are in charge of both houses, from viticulture to marketing. This allows for a nuanced understanding of the Chardonnay profile – from both owned and purchased vineyard plots – and subsequent decisions, particularly regarding the decision to release vintage cuvées.

For both houses, the wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks, but each has a different regimen regarding malolactic fermentation. It is done at Delamotte, while it is not encouraged – indeed prevented – at Salon, in order to preserve the delicate tension of the grape variety and terroir.

The dosage, made with cane sugar, is determined on a case-by-case basis, yet ranges between five grams per litre and 7.5g/L, with the exception of late disgorgements (Delamotte's Collection cuvée, and the ‘editions’ for Salon), which are brut nature, the extended bottling time providing the desired balance on the palate without the addition of sugar.

Champagne Delamotte

The first part of the tasting focused on Delamotte. One of the oldest houses in the Champagne region, founded in 1760, it specialises in Chardonnay, the grape variety at the heart of its four cuvées, where the average age of the vines is 40 years.

Champagne Delamotte also has HVE certification, which verifies its commitment to sustainable viticulture, and is moving towards organic farming trials

While it draws on the exceptional terroir of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Delamotte's philosophy, as Rimoldi told his audience, is the blending of the great crus of the Côte des Blancs. For the Blanc de Blancs NV, Avize and Oger are added to Mesnil, and for the pair of Blanc de Blancs Vintage cuvées, it is the three aforementioned crus plus Chouilly, Oiry, and Cramant.

‘We are the only house offering a blend of all six crus of the Côte,’ he emphasised. Added from 2008 onwards, Chouilly and Oiry ‘bring acidity, but also a structure similar to that of a Pinot Noir’.

The Blanc de Blancs NV is designed to be approachable, with the base vintage joined by 30% of reserve wine from the two preceding vintages, a 48-month aging period, and a more ‘inclusive’ dosage of around 7g/L.

The vintage cuvées, meanwhile, are crafted for complexity and ageing potential, and are undoubtedly the flagship of the house – albeit a discreet flagship, noted Rimoldi, often overlooked or little known by Côte des Blancs enthusiasts.

Contrasting vintage profiles

This was confirmed by comparative tastings of the 2018, 2014, and 2012 vintages. Their distinct identities were clearly identifiable – the ripeness of the 2018, the cool tension of the 2014, and the robust structure of the 2012 – especially since they were tasted in magnums. (They, like all 10 wines in the tasting, were aged under screwcap).

‘In terms of pH and ripeness, 2018 is similar to 1982,’ said Rimoldi when the topic of climate change was raised, along with its potential impact on a style as intense as Delamotte and Salon.

‘We need to take a step back and look at cycles,’ he explained. ‘We are obviously very aware of this issue. One advantage, however, is the improved health of the grapes compared to harvests that were previously very late and more complicated.

‘And we are fortunate to be on exceptional chalky terroirs with their water reserves, which are so important for the vines.’

The fact that the 2014 and 2012 were also in a period of post-disgorgement development highlighted the contrasting profiles of these vintages, both in terms of volume and aromas.

The comparison became even more interesting with the 2008 Collection. Delamotte offers late disgorgements for its Brut Vintage (dating back to 1964) as well as its Blanc de Blancs (1970, 1985, 1988, 1991, 1999, 2000, 2008).

Disgorged and then aged for barely a year, with no added dosage, the 2008 had the aromatic profile of a great Chardonnay, but with surprising power and density for a Côte des Blancs wine. A wine showing that Delamotte's vintage Blanc de Blancs is a benchmark, offering real value for money.

Champagne Salon

The second part of the tasting was devoted to the truly unique Salon Champagne. While its aesthetic – a single terroir (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger), a single vintage, a single grape variety – is no longer particularly striking today, Rimoldi reminded attendees that ‘Aimé Salon, a great lover of Burgundy, had this idea in 1905!’

Moving from the magnum format of the five Delamotte wines to the 75cl format for Salon – as well as going from the mature, brut nature 2008 Delamotte Collection to a young 2015 Salon, required particular concentration from the guests and was a true exercise for the palate.

But Rimoldi started with this latest vintage release followed by 2013, 2012, 2007, and 1997 in its 'second edition' version from 2020.

‘There is only one disgorgement when we release a vintage, and we do not indicate the date on the bottle,’ he told the masterclass.

‘However, we have decided to offer late disgorgements which we call Editions, in which case the disgorgement dates are mentioned. In terms of dosage, we are still around 5g/L to 7g/L grams, as for Delamotte, except for these late disgorgements, which are brut nature, as for Delamotte Collection.’

Making history

Only 45 vintages of Salon have been released since 1905 – 37 during the 20th century, but already eight since 2000.

Symbolic of the climatic consequences, 2015 was a sunny vintage so required less bottling time than 2014. This vintage has needed a longer time on the lees (tirage) and is still ageing ‘at a glacial pace’.

This is only the second time in Salon’s history it has made a non-chronological release. And once 2014 is out, it will also be only the second time that four consecutive Salon vintages (2012-13-14-15) will have been made, after the quadrilogy of 1946-47-48-49.Undoubtedly, the 2015 benefited from the water-retaining quality of the Mesnil chalk, mitigating the stress experienced by the vines in other Champagne areas, which can lead to vegetal bitterness on the palate.

The 2013 and 2012 vintages were remarkable examples of the Salon style, but very different profiles: 2012 with its mature, slightly more evolved structure, and 2013 with its crisp, chiselled freshness.

Salon has a reputation for closing up after a few years in the bottle and then reopening. This seems to be more the case with 2012 than 2013. The 2007, with a profile similar to the 2014, also benefited from a longer tirage period (11 years compared to the average of nine), and is now at its peak, deserving its nickname of ‘shining light’.

The masterclass concluded with a truly great 1997 (edition 2020), aged for 23 years and with no added dosage. Confirming again the importance of lees in defining texture and revealing density, the wine is surprisingly expressive.

Champagne Delamotte and Salon masterclass: 10 Blanc de Blancs cuvées

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By the time the Continental Congress formally approved the Declaration of Independence on 4 July 1776, winemaking in North America already had a relatively long and uneven history.

The earliest attempts date back to the early decades of European settlement and involved experiments with native grape species.

Typically characterised by high acidity, lower sugar levels, and distinctive flavour profiles, these native grapes produced wines markedly different from their European counterparts, prompting repeated (and often unsuccessful) attempts to establish plantings of Vitis vinifera imported from the Old World.

One of the most notable of such attempts was undertaken by Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States and passionate wine enthusiast, who planted European grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at his Monticello estate in Virginia.

Despite more than three decades of stubborn experimentation, Jefferson never succeeded in producing a reliable vintage from these vines.

Vitis vinifera’s failures in North America were long attributed to factors such as unfavourable climate, soil conditions, or poor vineyard practices, but a far more significant element at play was likely the presence of phylloxera.

This microscopic root-feeding pest native to North America that would later decimate European vineyards once inadvertently introduced there in the 19th century.

More substantial viticultural progress came with the arrival of Franciscan missionaries in the American southwest, who cultivated the Mission grape, a variety imported from Spain – via Mexico – and later identified as Listán Prieto.

This grape became the foundation of California’s early wine industry, demonstrating the region’s capacity for sustained viticulture.

Indeed, while wine production expanded across the United States, it was California that laid the groundwork for what would become the epicentre of American winemaking, driven in large part by European immigrants bringing both technical expertise and commercial ambition.

Among them were Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian who established Buena Vista in Sonoma in 1857, and German immigrant Charles Krug who founded his namesake winery in Napa Valley in 1861.

Prohibition: Time for a reset

As Europe grappled with the devastation of phylloxera towards the end of the 19th century, the United States was laying the groundwork for a constitutional alcohol ban.

Nationwide prohibition officially began in January 1920. Its impact on American wine was immediate and severe.

Most commercial wineries ceased operations altogether, bringing what had so far been a growing and increasingly ambitious industry to an abrupt halt.

Wine production, however, did not disappear entirely. Wineries such as Beaulieu Vineyard and Beringer were able to survive the dry years by producing sacramental wine for religious institutions.

At the same time, a legal loophole created a parallel informal economy centred around domestic winemaking, particularly in immigrant-heavy urban areas like New York, Chicago, and Boston.

By the time Prohibition was repealed in December 1933, only a small fraction of America’s wineries were still operational.

The industry’s entire commercial infrastructure – vineyards, distribution networks, oenological expertise, and consumer culture – had to be rebuilt almost from scratch.

California Chablis, jug wine and post-Prohibition rebirth

For much of post-Prohibition America, wine was primarily an inexpensive intoxicant, often sweet, and produced in ‘Port’ or ‘Sherry’-style expressions that bore little resemblance to their Old World counterparts.

Yet, beneath these high mass-market volumes, some producers began investing seriously in quality and in the long-term potential of American wine.

One of the most transformative moments came in 1938 with the arrival of Russian-born winemaker André Tchelistcheff at Napa’s Beaulieu Vineyard.

Widely regarded as one of the founding architects of modern Californian wine, Tchelistcheff introduced a new level of scientific rigour and technical precision to viticulture and winemaking, drawing heavily on European high standards while adapting practices to Californian conditions.

Through direct mentorship and broader industry influence, Tchelistcheff helped shape a new generation of winemakers, including figures such as Robert Mondavi, Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich of Grgich Hills, who would play defining roles in the rise of modern American wine.

Robert Mondavi, in particular, proved instrumental in reshaping the narrative surrounding Californian wine.

Rather than relying on (then common) European-inspired names such as ‘California Chablis’ or ‘Napa Burgundy’, he championed varietal labelling, placing grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay front and centre.

Mondavi also promoted wine as part of a broader cultural lifestyle connected to gastronomy, music, art, and conviviality, helping (re)position it as an aspirational product rather than a merely functional one.

By the 1970s, the United States was producing wines capable of competing with the world’s finest.

British wine merchant Steven Spurrier was sufficiently convinced of such progress that, in 1976, he organised a blind tasting in Paris pitting leading Californian wines against some of France’s most prestigious labels.

The outcome of what would become known as the Judgment of Paris stunned the audience, the jury, and the industry as a whole: Californian wines triumphed in both the white and red categories, defeating celebrated Burgundies and Bordeaux.

The tasting marked a watershed moment for American wine, securing its place on the global fine wine map and fundamentally altering international perceptions of what the country was capable of bottling.

Napa Cab and The Critics

In the years that followed this landmark moment, Californian winemaking increasingly shifted towards a style defined by power, ripeness, and opulence, producing wines marked by intense fruit concentration, elevated alcohol levels, deep extraction, and generous use of new French oak.

This evolution was strongly shaped by the rise of influential critic Robert Parker Jr, who tended to favour this bold, ripe stylistic approach, rewarding it with higher marks in his influential 100-point scoring system.

This philosophy gradually spread beyond California, in a phenomenon referred to, sometimes critically, as Parkerisation.

From Bordeaux to Tuscany and Rioja, producers increasingly embraced riper fruit, softer tannins, later harvesting, and more assertive oak regimes.

They often sought input from influential international consultants such as Michel Rolland, in pursuit of the high critic scores they felt could elevate reputation, demand, and revenues almost overnight.

As the 20th century drew to a close, the United States had entered an entirely new phase of its wine history.

No longer a country merely striving to prove its legitimacy to the global wine establishment, it had become one of the principal forces shaping its direction, aesthetics, and economic dynamics.

A multi-layered landscape

Modern American wine is a remarkably nuanced landscape, one that mirrors the equally complex history of the country itself and the multitude of cultures, migrations, and traditions that shaped its social fabric.

California continues to dominate both production volume and the premium sector, but has become far more stylistically diverse than the blockbuster Cabernet stereotype often associated with it.

Powerful Napa Cab still occupies a central place in the state’s identity, yet California today produces an extraordinary range of styles, from refined coastal Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Mediterranean varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Vermentino.

Zinfandel (arguably America’s most emblematic grape) is also being reinterpreted in more nuanced and site-specific ways.

Meanwhile, fellow West Coast states have, over the past few decades, firmly joined the race for quality wine production.

Oregon has established itself as a leading cool-climate region, particularly for elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while Washington State has earned acclaim for structured Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhône varieties, and vibrant Riesling.

On the East Coast, New York’s Finger Lakes region has steadily built a reputation for refined, high-acid, cool-climate wines, particularly Riesling and Cabernet Franc.

Centuries after Thomas Jefferson’s failed experiments, Virginia has also finally found its winemaking identity, acclaimed for Cabernet Franc and Viognier, grapes well suited to the state’s humid continental climate (though producers are successfully working across a wide range of styles and varieties).

Beyond these, quality wine is produced in almost every American state, from the Mediterranean varieties of Texas to the cool, fresh, and unexpectedly refined whites of Michigan.

Across the country, winemakers now express a striking diversity of approaches and philosophies, with an increasing emphasis on regional identity over homogenised stylistic consistency.

The story of American wine may have begun as a matter of trial and – significant – error, but in the span of a semiquincentennial it has morphed into a deliberate, confident, and increasingly self-assured expression of place, as diverse and expansive as the country itself.

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The hottest ticket in the Big Apple this past Saturday wasn’t on Broadway, or even a prime seat at a sports bar to watch the New York Knicks take a 2-0 lead in the NBA finals series.

Those in the know – all 500 of them – were 60 floors up at Manhatta for the fifth annual Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York City (DFWE NYC).

Now firmly established as Manhattan’s greatest world wine event, this Empire State iteration of Decanter’s renowned global events series brought together a Grand Tasting of 30 Gold, Platinum and Best in Show medal-winners from the Decanter World Wine Awards as well as more than 200 premium wines from 55 producers.

Our star-studded line up of Masterclasses featured Salon & Delamotte Champagnes, SuperTuscans and Heitz Cellar, while the unique experience of dining with world-class producers themselves ensured our exclusive Winemakers' Lunches sold out almost instantly.

With panoramic views of the city skyline and across New York Harbor to the Statue of Liberty, the Grand Tasting room is the heart of the event, where each of the 50 stands was invited to showcase one special wine, either an old vintage or a large-format bottle – and often both – to share with guests.

Guests tasted throughout the day using glassware from Riedel, a fitting partner for an event celebrating fine wine, where presentation and tasting conditions are an important part of the experience.

Highlights of DFWE NYC 2026 included the Eola-Amilty Hills table, which welcomed several winery principals from this Willamette Valley AVA in Oregon, and similar regional tables from both Switzerland and Castilla y Léon in Spain.

In-depth tastings of icon wines

Away from the buzz and bustle of the Grand Tasting, our Masterclass room – with spectacular dual-aspect vistas – offered 75 attendees in each of three sold-out sessions the chance for a more in-depth look at a producer, region or wine style, with a guided tasting of eight to 10 exclusive cuvées, presented by renowned experts.

To start the day on a sparkling note, Cristian Rimoldi of sister Champagne houses Salon and Delamotte, along with Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, took a deep dive into the world of Blanc de Blancs, tasting five cuvées each from these very different properties, back to Salon 1997.

Next, one of Decanter’s key Italian wine specialists, Michaela Morris, and Decanter’s Italy Editor, James Button, joined forces to present eight SuperTuscans – two each from leading producers Antinori, Isole e Olena, Fontodi and Bibi Graetz – to show the evolution of styles and approaches of these iconic IGTs.

Ending DFWE NYC 2026 on a historic note, Master Sommelier and Heitz Cellar CEO Carlton McCoy was joined by Decanter’s Napa correspondent Jonathan Cristaldi to take guests through 10 Heitz Cellar Cabernets through the decades, including the 1985 and 1979 vintages from Martha’s Vineyard.

Read all about it: Full masterclass reports from DFWE NYC 2026

• Salon & Delamotte
• Super Tuscans
• Heitz Cellar

Meet the winemakers in person

Apart from the wines, of course, the biggest drawcard to all Decanter Fine Wine Encounters is the chance for attendees to speak with the winemakers and winery owners themselves.

And what better way than to sit down for an intimate meal with them, sharing three exclusive bottles at our Decanter Winemakers' Lunches.

This year Dr Laura Catena, fourth-generation winemaker and Managing Director of Catena Zapata in Argentina hosted an oversubscribed lunch for seven lucky guests, who enjoyed her Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 2023, Argentino Malbec 2005 and the icon Nicolás Catena Zapata 2004 in magnum.

Katie Vogt, winemaker at Pahlmeyer in Napa Valley, hosted the other sell-out lunch for six guests, alongside Decanter's Napa expert Jonathan Cristaldi. She poured her Savoir Faire Chardonnay 2024, Right Bank 2023 and Pièce de Résistance 2023.

In the Grand Tasting, several other winemakers and owners generously took time out of their busy schedules to fly over for the DFWE NYC 2026, pour wines and chat at length with guests.

We thank, and look forward to seeing again: Louise Grillet (Veuve Clicquot), Olive Hamilton Russell (Hamilton Russell Oregon), Luke Evnin (Annulus Cellars), Jeff Mangahas (Williams Selyem), Dan Petroski (Massican), Adam Lowy (Cloudsley Cellars), Emma Garner (Thirty Bench), Gabriel Mustakis (San Pedro), Zvonimir Jurkovic (Poderi Luigi Einaudi), Alberto Moretti Cuseri (Tenuta Sette Ponti) and Rodrigo Costa (Taboadella).

Revisit the wines discovered

One of the pleasures of DFWE is the opportunity to taste wines that are often difficult to find in one place. For guests looking to revisit a favourite bottle from the day, premium wine retailer Millesima has curated a dedicated Decanter Fine Wine Encounter collection featuring a selection of wines showcased at the event.

The collection is designed to make it easier for attendees to source memorable wines encountered during the Grand Tasting and masterclasses. As an additional benefit, there's also access to a limited-time offer through the collection.

Browse the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter collection at Millesima here.

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Julia Rose Hoyle and Kelby James Russell are too busy for pinch-me moments.

The pair launched their Finger Lakes-based winery, Apollo’s Praise, in 2023 and are deep in the work.

Partners in life and love, they’ve got their hands full, from farming to fermenting, bottling to selling.

‘We’re working phenomenally hard on the back end because we recognise that we’ve been given the chance to help push the Finger Lakes forward,’ explains Russell.

With a charge like that, there is little time to pause – even when the praise is good.

Within three months of launching, inventory sold out, and scores reached up to 98-points, which is among the highest the region has received to date.

The duo keeps moving, popping up across the US and internationally as they introduce a brand that has brought a fresh new energy to Finger Lakes wine.

Finding Apollo

'Thus, then combining, hands and hearts joining, sing we in harmony Apollo’s praise. Here ev’ry gen’rous sentiment awaking, music inspiring unity and joy. Each social pleasure giving and partaking, glee and good humour our hours employ.'

These are the lyrics of ‘Glorious Apollo’, the 18th-century glee written by composer Samuel Webbe. They end every quarterly zine designed by Hoyle for Apollo’s Praise.

Russell first encountered Glorious Apollo at Harvard College, where he studied Orchestra Management and sang in the Glee Club.

His admission to the Ivy League school felt like a one-way ticket from his small Finger Lakes hometown that he’d eagerly been awaiting.

While there, he won a fellowship to study food in Italy.

‘I went for the mortadella,’ he laughs. To stretch the funding, Russell found lodging in exchange for work at a ‘quirky castle’ surrounded by vineyards.

‘It was a romantic spot. I fell in love with the lifestyle, got the wine bug, and decided – to my shock – to move back home and get into wine.’

A few hundred miles away, Hoyle traded northern Pennsylvania for Hobart and William Smith Colleges in Geneva, New York.

She picked up seasonal work in the tasting room at Fox Run Vineyards, but found herself fascinated by winemaking: ‘I wanted to learn more about this product that there’s no firm answer on – I wanted to know more all the time.’

Russell arrived at Fox Run two weeks after Hoyle, dressed for an interview, only to be handed a shovel on what would become his first day of harvest.

He and Hoyle quickly fell for the industry, the region, and eventually for each other.

As their careers progressed, each traveled across hemispheres, gaining experience by chasing harvests while staying connected through handwritten notes.

While in Paris in 2012, they eloped.

Building Lahoma

Through all their travels, the Finger Lakes kept pulling them home.

‘There was a lot of interesting energy and evolution happening. It was still a real underdog of a region, and to be here was a choice,’ explains Russell, who settled as lead winemaker for Red Newt Cellars on Seneca Lake.

Hoyle took the reins of winemaking at Hosmer Winery on Cayuga.

‘There’s an excitement you can’t replicate going to a region that already has the accolades,’ he continues.

‘Getting to demonstrate and earn those accolades for an underdog region is really enriching.’

Hoyle shares the ambition: ‘I want to make the best wines of the region. That is the end goal.’

Their work is heavily influenced by Austria and Germany, especially the idea of Grosses Gewächs, given they both work with distinguished vineyards.

Russell’s work at Red Newt introduced him to Ken and Harlan Fulkerson, the original farmers behind Lahoma Vineyards.

Once planted with apples, pears, peaches, and cherries, the celebrated vineyard is now 22.2ha of vinifera and hybrid grapes, including Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, and the first commercial planting of Scheurebe in New York.

High on a knoll

Within the parcel sits a notable 0.8ha plot of land named The Knoll, known for its rare sandstone soils and unique expression in the glass.

Russell has sourced fruit from this block for over a decade, crafting structured, muscular, and textural Rieslings that earned him a devoted following.

As the wines gained traction, so did the property, with Russell proudly touring the vines with journalists and buyers.

The Fulkersons quietly took note and secretly designated Russell and Hoyle as a potential succession plan.

The offer came in 2022 when Russell called the Fulkersons in search of Chardonnay. There was none, but they had a counteroffer: the farm itself.

Hoyle, who calls herself Russell’s co-conspirator, could see his vision: ‘At the end of the day, the deep trust we have for one another is what’s guided a lot of our decisions.’

They closed on the property in April 2023.

A frosty beginning

Within a month of closing, an unprecedented frost decimated half their crop. It was a once-in-50-year event.

Russell couldn’t sleep as temperatures dipped overnight. He got to the farm at sunrise to find the Fulkersons already there.

‘The plan was to sell 95% of the crop, and keep a few tons to tinker with. But, we knew we had to start a winery and make a new business plan to save the farm.’

They were more than ready. They already had the name. They had the label artist, Christi Lopez, whom Hoyle found on Instagram and bookmarked for this moment.

And, they quickly learned the region had their backs: neighbors offered unclaimed fruit, and Harlan Fulkerson even personally advocated for them at the bank, noting that you can’t predict the weather.

‘You can’t do it alone,’ Hoyle smiles. That winter, Apollo’s Praise launched their Wine & Glee Club and Skurnik Wines added the brand to their portfolio – the first and only brand contracted without a tasting.

The wines posted some of the highest scores in the region. Within three months, their inventory was completely sold out.

A warmer future ahead

Three years in, and the Apollo’s Praise team remains busy. They’ve since purchased the 1850s farmhouse next door, which houses their offices, a hosting space, and a seasonal Airbnb.

In the cellar, Russell and Hoyle operate on a 60/40 split, respectively – each producing their own wines that work in concert across the full portfolio.

‘We did not want to work together–especially in production,’ laughs Russell, though they have one exception: a single wine called Lovejoy: a blend of Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, and Riesling grown on The Knoll.

They’ve also built a company culture that reflects everything ‘Glorious Apollo’ promises. Alongside Hoyle’s joyful zines are Russell’s inspired music pairings on the back of every label.

General Manager Sarah Tuttle leads a small team that they call smart and quirky. Staff are given room to be fully themselves.

‘Sometimes it seems very crazy that the universe just lets us do this,’ says Tuttle.

That permission is not accidental, but deliberate. ‘I have an open door to anyone who wants to work hard. I’ll give people a shot because a lot of people wouldn’t do that for me,’ says Hoyle.

‘It’s important to get new voices at the table every time.’

Russell sees the same opportunity through the wine itself: ‘How do you get more people to love wine? It’s a really simple answer. Make exciting wine at a price point people can afford.’

Three tiers of wines are currently offered, ranging from approachable offerings under £20 to small-production single-vineyard bottlings that can command £100 and above.

From the outside looking in, Apollo’s Praise is more than a winery. It is the culmination of Hoyle and Russell’s hard work and preparation for this particular moment.

From chasing harvests and trading handwritten letters, to starting a brand authentic in its representation of the duo, it all folds into something that feels less like a business plan and more like a calling.

As the lyrics of Glorious Apollo go, they are giving and partaking in equal measure – and it seems the Finger Lakes are singing back.

Apollo's Praise wines

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The 1976 Judgement of Paris is credited with putting American wine on the map internationally, but a century earlier, a forgotten milestone put New York wine on the world’s stage.

In 1873, a Finger Lakes sparkling wine took home gold at a competition in Vienna – the first American bubbly to win an international medal.

The wine was crafted from Catawba grapes by Pleasant Valley Wine Company on Keuka Lake, U.S. Bonded Winery No. 1.

The victory caused quite a stir back home in the Empire State. In 1871, the winery’s founder, Charles Champlin, sent a case to the Boston wine connoisseur, Marshall P. Wilder, who declared it the ‘The Great Champagne of the Western World’.

Pleasant Valley quickly earned the nickname ‘Great Western’, and its shipping records from the late 19th century show it was a supplier to numerous prestigious east coast establishments such as S.S. Pierce, Macy’s, Park & Tilford, Palmer House of Chicago, and Parker House of Boston.

Origin story

‘[American hybrid] grapes like Delaware played such an important role in our region’s early sparkling wines,’ explains Erin McMurrough of Little Clover Wine Company, a micro-winery in the Finger Lakes offering traditional method style Riesling, Delaware, and Cayuga White.

‘These grapes are naturally suited to traditional-method sparkling wine: they hold bright acidity, develop beautiful aromatics at lower sugars, and create wines with freshness and energy,’ she continues.

‘I never questioned whether they could make serious sparkling wine; I only wondered whether people would be open to revisiting these varieties in a new, yet historically rooted, way.’

McMurrough’s wines have become cult favourites since launching in 2023.

She says: ‘I see Little Clover as both a nod to our roots and a reminder that New York doesn't need to imitate other regions to make world-class sparkling wine. We have our own story to tell.’

New York’s rich history of sparkling wine dates back more than 150 years. The fame of local sparkling wines from the Finger Lakes was such that from 1870 to 1945 it adopted the postmark ‘Rheims, N.Y.’.

The vinifera revolution

Though prohibition was crippling to the wine industry, the region’s strong associations with sparkling wines remained.

Renowned winegrowers and makers immigrated to Long Island and the Finger Lakes in the 20th and 21st centuries, including Guy Deveaux of Moët et Chandon and Mumm Napa, and Charles Fournier of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin.

‘Our sparkling programme began with the 1985 vintage under my grandfather, Willy Frank,’ says Meaghan Frank, fourth-generation General Manager at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery on Keuka Lake.

The winery began in 1958 as an experiment between Charles Fournier and Frank’s great-grandfather, Konstantin.

Willy Frank’s deep commitment to traditional method wines, classically made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, meant he was the first producer to successfully plant Vitis vinifera in Finger Lakes, proving it was possible and leading to a new wave of still and sparkling wines made with vinifera varieties.

‘At the time, he labelled the wines “Finger Lakes Champagne” because he was intent on legitimising both vinifera and sparkling wine production in the region,’ Frank continues.

Although EU-USA labelling agreements mean it is still allowed to use the term, the winery prefers to list 'traditional method' on its labels out of respect for the venerable Champagne region.

Diverse sparkling offerings

As interest in New York sparkling increases, so do the state’s offerings: with traditional and tank method wines, Pét Nat (pétillant naturel also known as ancestral method), and everything in between.

You’ll even find a sparkling Albariño in the Hudson Valley and sparkling rosé ice wine in the Lake Erie AVA.

‘I guess the reason is “why not?”. I'm a scientist. I like challenges,’ says Johnson Estate Winery winemaker Jeff Murphy.

Like his counterparts statewide, Murphy is a true New Yorker, unafraid to push the limits of cool-climate wines, sparkling especially, and not back down from something others might think is too difficult.

‘Long cool summers and crisp falls ripen aromatics and flavour components at lower sugar levels, providing an ideal sparkling base,’ he says of the state’s conditions.

After decades of testing and measuring itself against European benchmarks, New York’s persistence has arrived at something more valuable than validation: an identity of its own.

When you open a bottle of New York sparkling, you’re experiencing deep roots – and a very bright future.

Empire State of fizz

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New York’s vibrant hospitality scene was celebrated last week at the Star Wine List of the Year 2026 awards. The event recognised the city’s leading restaurants and wine bars across 13 categories, highlighting the venues currently setting the benchmark for cellar depth, by-the-glass creativity and expert service.

Winners across the 10 international categories will now advance to compete at the Star Wine List of the Year Global Final, taking place in Sweden this June, hosted by Terra Skåne.

The awards were judged by a high-profile panel of industry experts, including Master of Wine and Master Sommelier Doug Frost, ASI Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa and the Middle East 2024 Mikk Parre, and renowned New York sommelier Yannick Benjamin, also a Decanter World Wine Awards judge.

Top cellars and by-the-glass innovators

Among the leading Gold Star winners was 2-Michelin starred restaurant Atera, which collected top honours for its extensive and meticulously curated cellar programme. Meanwhile, Benoit New York was recognised for the strength and diversity of its by-the-glass offering, proving that great wine doesn't always require pulling a cork on a full bottle.

Chambers was also highly celebrated, securing (for a third year) the Gold Star for the Sustainability Prize, a category of growing importance to both trade and consumers. Brooklyn wine destination The Four Horsemen featured prominently among the winners as well, underlining its continued influence on New York’s contemporary, low-intervention wine scene.

Other notable venues recognised across the awards included newcomer Saint Urban, New York institution Peasant and Coqodaq for its sparkling wine selection, alongside more regional category winners.

The results reflect the sheer breadth of wine experiences now available across the city, ranging from destination fine-dining restaurants to more compact, sommelier-led neighbourhood wine bars.

The diversity on offer is epitomised by Special Jury Prize winner Noreetuh, a modern Hawaiian restaurant in the East Village, offering wine lovers something out of the ordinary.

Precision and personality

In comments published alongside the awards, the judges highlighted both the rigorous quality and the distinct personality of the winning lists.

Alongside a strong foundation in classic regions and producers, 'New York reveals a dynamic and confident wine culture, where sommeliers embrace individuality, championing lesser-known regions and low-intervention wines with conviction,''said Parre.

Reflecting on the strength of the city's wine offerings, Frost MS MW added: 'New York does not starve for big wine lists, filled with the names of wines most of us can only dream of drinking, much less buying.'

For consumers, the awards offer a timely snapshot of where to drink wine well in New York right now, whether searching for classic fine wine vintages, grower Champagne, emerging regions or adventurous tasting flights.

A global wine hub

The Star Wine List results reinforce New York’s position as a global epicentre for fine wine, arriving just ahead of next month’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York.

Taking place in Manhattan, the event will see top producers from around the world gather for exclusive tastings and masterclasses. Among the experts involved, award-winner Chamber's Pascaline Lepeltier will co-host a sold out masterclass with Champagne Salon & Delamotte.

A full list of winners and categories is available via Star Wine List.

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At the table with Carlton McCoy MS

Carlton McCoy has spent decades immersed in the world of fine wine – from restaurant floors and cellars to overseeing some of Napa Valley and Bordeaux’s most prestigious estates.

Now, ahead of a special Heitz Cellar masterclass at Decanter's Fine Wine Encounter in New York on 6 June, McCoy sat down with Decanter to discuss how Napa Cabernet is changing, why collectors should rethink old assumptions around aging and what makes mature Napa wines such compelling bottles at the table today.

Join Carlton McCoy for a one-of-a-kind tasting of Heitz Cellar wines, including rare library vintages dating back to 1979 at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York on 6 June.

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'No city does hotel cocktail bars like New York'

No matter the type of traveller, most cocktail-loving jetsetters agree that nothing beats a classic hotel bar.

Posting up with a strong drink in a cozy hotel space brings a welcome sense of comfort and relaxation, whether visiting from out of town or simply exploring the scene in your home base—and no city does hotel cocktail bars like New York.

Home to some of the world’s most storied spaces, New York’s hotel bar scene offers a myriad of treasures to be discovered, though knowing where to settle in—and of course, what to order—is key.

Check out eight of our go-to Manhattan hotspots here, from longstanding institutions to newly-opened lounges and beyond.

Eight of the best hotel bars in New York City

Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle

35 E 76th St, New York, NY 10021

Few hotel bars exude old-school glamour as well as Bemelmans. Located on New York’s Upper East Side, this iconic cocktail bar has welcomed the likes of celebrities and politicians alike, including JFK and Paul McCartney.

Known for its live jazz and photo-worthy wallpaper – handcrafted by Ludwig Bemelmans himself, who took residency in the hotel for around 18 months during the mid-1940s – the bar’s strong martinis and unmatched ambiance help to justify the premium prices.

Pro tip: With just 69 seats, the bar fills up quickly, so plan to wait—or better yet, arrive early / during off times for your best shot at a spot (we recommend between 3pm and 4pm).

Monkey Bar at The Hotel Elysee

60 E 54th St, New York, NY 10022

Monkey Bar has long been a New York City staple, hosting the company of carefree creatives, Don Draper-like ad men, and Midtown finance professionals for nearly 100 years.

Known for its Art Deco dining room and signature wraparound mural highlighting Jazz Age icons (think everyone from Frank Sinatra to Dorothy Parker) – as well as its gold and wooden monkey figurines scattered throughout the interior – the bar’s dimly lit ambiance and energetic vibe make it the ideal place for throwing back a few bourbon smashes or stiff gin-based drinks.

For top-tier people watching with an old school flair, look no further than this landmark cocktail joint.

Club Room at Soho Grand

310 W Broadway, New York, NY 10013

Drink, dance, or dine—why choose? At the Club Room at Soho Grand, you can truly have it all. Known for its 'uptown elegance with downtown edge,' this two-room supper club is open Wednesday through Saturday, offering live music, a full dinner menu, and late-night DJs.

Clad with velvet banquettes, two-top tables, and 18-foot mirrored ceilings, this Art Deco-inspired lounge also features a dedicated bar area and separate parlour space, perfect for accommodating whatever type of night you’re looking to have.

Note: There’s a cover charge of $25-$35 ($25 Wed-Thu, $35 on weekends), though access is complimentary for Soho Grand hotel guests.

Lobby Bar at Hotel Chelsea

226 W 23rd St, New York, NY 10011

For a high-end lobby bar with an equally decadent history, look no further than the Chelsea Hotel.

Reopened in 2022, the bar’s curated cocktail menu highlights thoughtful signature drinks and elevated small plates, with the 884 Martini (gin, cedro lemon, vetiver, Spanish olive oil) as one of its most revered libations.

The landmarked hotel has housed the likes of Bob Dylan and Patti Smith, further adding to its trademark Bohemian charm.

In addition to the Lobby Bar, which operates as the hotel’s 'living room', the space also opens to an airy garden terrace, perfect for enjoying drinks al fresco, should the weather permit.

Ty Bar at The Four Seasons

57 E 57th St, New York, NY 10022

Art Deco is a recurring theme amongst New York’s hotel bar scene, though few do it as well as Ty Bar.

Tucked within the Four Seasons in Midtown, this cozy red-hued room serves up bespoke cocktails that pay homage to the city’s historic past—think the New York, New York Sour, Ty Manhattan, and Brooklynite, made with Appleton 8 Year Rum, Planteray 3 Stars Rum, lime, local honey, and Angostura bitters.

Outfitted with floor-to-ceiling windows, a warming fireplace, and exclusive views of the hotel’s grand lobby, there’s really no bad seat in this storied space—it’s simply a matter of preference.

Best of all, Ty Bar features complimentary live music every Thursday from 6pm to 9pm.

Sloane’s at The Manner Hotel

58 Thompson St, New York, NY 10012

For top-tier drinks and a glamorous downtown vibe, check out Sloane’s in The Manner Hotel.

A rather new-to-the-scene bar (opened September 2024), this jewel-box lounge brings a welcome addition to the already trendy neighbourhood, and is the perfect place to grab a pre- or post-dinner drink.

Known for its signature drinks and elevated bites – caviar-topped chicken nuggets included – the space regularly features live jazz, though music or not, the vibes are always on point.

We recommend springing for the London Calling, made with Fords London Dry Gin, fino sherry, grapefruit, bergamot, and orange bitters, or grab the simple Dirty Martini, prepared with olive brine sherry vermouth, sea salt, and an optional caviar bump to boot.

Lounge on Pearl at The Wall Street Hotel

88 Wall St, New York, NY 10005

Martinis are having a renaissance, and Lounge on Pearl is one of the best places in the city to drink them.

Known for its high ceilings and airy ambiance, this downtown hotspot highlights a menu entirely dedicated to the drink, including customisable dry, dirty, and espresso options, as well as a handful of unique riffs – think the Manzanilla, made with Bombay Sapphire Gin, Valdespino Sherry, and an Almond Stuffed Olive, as well as the savoury Mushroom Martini, made with ​​Grey Goose Vodka, shiitake, and dashi.

The lounge also offers a Martini Frites special, featuring a martini of choice and side of fries for $32, as well as a number of signature cocktails and by-the-glass wine pours.

The bar also houses a small library area with a number of art books and newspapers, making it a great place for a zen moment downtown.

The Rum House at Hotel Edison

228 W 47th St, New York, NY 10036

World-class cocktails and Times Square may sound like a contradiction, though The Rum House consistently defies all odds.

Known for its wood-panelled room and – you guessed it – speciality rum cocktails, this vintage-inspired bar offers a desirable reprieve from the chaos of Midtown.

The bar’s wood-panelled walls and distinct copper accents create a retro, 1970s-inspired vibe, making it the perfect backdrop for nightly live piano and jazz music with a strong drink in hand.

Classic rum cocktails, including the Painkiller, Rum Punch, and Mojito are perfectly executed, though we recommend also springing for a signature libation, such as the Hotel Nacional, made with Plantation Dark Rum, pineapple, lime, Giffard Abricot du Roussillon, and Angostura Bitters.

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Tickets are now on sale for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) New York, returning for its fifth year on Saturday 6 June, on the 60th floor at the stunning Manhatta.

High above the city skyline, the DFWE New York is a one-day tasting experience built for discovery. Guests are invited to taste widely, learn with confidence and deepen their understanding of fine wine, guided by the people who know it best.

The New York Encounter opens Decanter’s global Fine Wine Encounter series for 2026, ahead of later editions in cities including London, bringing together exceptional wines and expertise in an elegant, relaxed setting.

Discover what you like

At the heart of the day is the Grand Tasting, bringing together 55 producers from around the world, including E. Guigal, Château d’Esclans, Mazzei and Ridge Vineyards. Each will present four wines, including a special cuvée awarded 95+ points by Decanter. With the freedom to explore at your own pace, guests can compare styles, revisit favourites and speak directly with producers, building confidence in their palate while discovering new wines along the way.

Learn from the best

For those looking to explore further, a curated programme of three masterclasses offers focused insight into some of the world’s most celebrated names and regions.

Confirmed masterclasses include  Salon and Delamotte, hosted by Cristian Rimoldi, and Super Tuscans, led by Italian wine expert Michela Morris, with a third session to be announced.

Each class runs for 75 minutes and is limited capacity, allowing for a more in-depth, engaging experience.

A seat at the table with a winemaker

After a successful debut across Decanter’s global Fine Wine Encounters last year, the Winemakers’ Lunch returns to New York, having quickly become a highlight of the programme.

This intimate dining experience offers guests the chance to enjoy relaxed, in-depth conversations over lunch with winemakers and members of the Decanter editorial team. Dr Laura Catena of Catena Zapata is confirmed, with more names to be announced.

Essential information

DFWE New York

Date: Saturday June 6 2026 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhattan, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: from $225 + US sales tax

BUY TICKETS HERE

Tickets are now on sale for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) New York, returning for its fifth year on Saturday 6 June, on the 60th floor at the stunning Manhatta.

High above the city skyline, the DFWE New York is a one-day tasting experience built for discovery. Guests are invited to taste widely, learn with confidence and deepen their understanding of fine wine, guided by the people who know it best.

The New York Encounter opens Decanter’s global Fine Wine Encounter series for 2026, ahead of later editions in cities including London, bringing together exceptional wines and expertise in an elegant, relaxed setting.

Discover what you like

At the heart of the day is the Grand Tasting, bringing together 55 producers from around the world, including E. Guigal, Château d’Esclans, Mazzei and Ridge Vineyards. Each will present four wines, including a special cuvée awarded 95+ points by Decanter. With the freedom to explore at your own pace, guests can compare styles, revisit favourites and speak directly with producers, building confidence in their palate while discovering new wines along the way.

Learn from the best

For those looking to explore further, a curated programme of three masterclasses offers focused insight into some of the world’s most celebrated names and regions.

Confirmed masterclasses include  Salon and Delamotte, hosted by Cristian Rimoldi, and Super Tuscans, led by Italian wine expert Michela Morris, with a third session to be announced.

Each class runs for 75 minutes and is limited capacity, allowing for a more in-depth, engaging experience.

A seat at the table with a winemaker

After a successful debut across Decanter’s global Fine Wine Encounters last year, the Winemakers’ Lunch returns to New York, having quickly become a highlight of the programme.

This intimate dining experience offers guests the chance to enjoy relaxed, in-depth conversations over lunch with winemakers and members of the Decanter editorial team. Dr Laura Catena of Catena Zapata is confirmed, with more names to be announced.

Essential information

DFWE New York

Date: Saturday June 6 2026 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhattan, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: from $225 + US sales tax

BUY TICKETS HERE

Adam Morganstern photo credit: Adam Morganstern

What’s on your wine rack at the moment?

A lot of dry Italian whites. I’ve been really interested in Fiano di Avellino recently; dry Rieslings; an occasional dry white from southern Chile, California or Oregon. Much of what I drink is dictated by stories I’m working on, so can be out of my hands.

Where do you keep your wine?

Everywhere. I’m in a New York apartment and I have three wine fridges, plus racks on any outside walls that are not heated. I also have friends who let me keep wine at their places. It’s a typical New York story – you find space where you can.

How did you become interested in wine?

I visited France for the first time at age 14. This was the early 1970s, and in the US there were a lot of TV dinners and frozen foods. France exposed me to great ingredients and serious cooking. It opened my mind to how good food could be and made me want to have that experience over and over. As I got older, I added wine to that equation.

Who’s a memorable person with whom you’ve enjoyed a glass of wine?

Hugh Johnson. I first sat next to him at a wine dinner in the early 1990s. I don’t think there’s anybody who has better described the sensations of enjoying wine without descending into cliches.

Name a wine you’d love to try

I’ve never had a ’47 Château Cheval Blanc. Domaine Leroy is one of those grand cru wines where I’ve had a taste, but I would love to sit down with a bottle and just experience it over time. I’ve had a glass of Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Le Musigny, but a bottle would be a great thing.

Favourite wine for a special occasion?

For celebratory meals I like a progression of wines, so we’ll start with something sparkling. Burgundy will be involved if it’s not too exorbitant. It’s getting harder to afford Chambolles or any of the great Côte de Nuits. But there are so many good up-and-coming producers from Savigny-lès-Beaune or the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune that it’s like an endless series of discoveries.

Where do you buy your wines?

There are a lot of great retail shops in New York, such as Chambers Street Wines, Astor Wines, Flatiron Wines. I order online, for delivery. This is New York – I don’t have a car and there’s nowhere to park anyway.

Favourite restaurant pairings?

I’m always exploring new places. New York restaurants are doing a great job with wine but it’s really hard to find good bottles under $100 any more. I’m not talking about Michelin-starred restaurants – I’m talking about restaurants that purport to be ‘neighbourhood places’. But there are also pizza places in New York that have great lists of natural wines.

Your classic dinner party dish and wine combination?

Meat lasagna – but without béchamel. I don’t like béchamel. I have developed my own recipe, which you can find in The New York Times. Served with a Chianti Classico.

Your go-to wines for snacks and watching TV?

For the most part, I drink wine with meals, but if I have a yen for something like Marcona almonds, I’ll pick a good Sherry. I’m often in the mood to drink sparkling wine: Champagne, German Sekt, or one of the many great sparkling wines from Italy, Oregon or California.

Favourite supermarket wines?

Even if supermarkets in New York were permitted to sell wine, I wouldn’t be shopping in them. There are relatively inexpensive wines that I like. Lambert de Seyssel makes a sparkling wine that’s excellent. Raventós i Blanc is a wonderful source of inexpensive Cava. Viña Zorzal from Navarra in Spain makes a beautiful Garnacha that’s generally around $14. I drink so eclectically that I will never have a house wine, but if I did, it would probably be a box wine. They’ve gotten much better and are really good value.

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• Meet the sommelier: Ava Mees List of Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant
• Meet the sommelier: Isa Bal MS
• A drink with… Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS

This is our second annual list of Decanter’s Top 50 US Wines. My hope is that our list of wines inspires conversation and sparks disagreement.

That it makes people take note of the regions beyond those you think of first when you think of the wines being produced in America’s wine country. There are some spectacular wines throughout the US.

I feel like we’re in the process of both getting started and figuring it out. I guess that’s life in a nutshell. I work with a very small team of freelance writers, and I’m the only full-time person at Decanter in the US, so, with limited resources, we are doing what we can to maximise our scope.

We’ve expanded and moved coverage around in some areas, done more in others, and, regrettably but necessarily, less in others. It is a challenging landscape for media, and while it hasn’t been a perfect year for our US team or me when it comes to expanding coverage, I think we’re moving in the right direction.

A year for white wines

Over the course of the year, Decanter gave about 30 100-point scores to current-release wines in 2025. Those numbers are split nearly evenly between Bordeaux, Napa and the Rhône Valley.

Only three of those wines were white wines. The iconic old vine Roussanne from Château de Beaucastel and two Chardonnays, one from Australia’s Margaret River and one from the Willamette Valley.

That meagre number includes my first-ever 100-point wine, the 2023 Bethel Heights Chardonnay, which you’ll read more about later, but this rudimentary analysis stands in stark contrast to what we’re seeing in white wine production and quality here in the US.

There was no better year for white wine than 2025, and it is reflected in our countdown. A cool vintage in Washington (and Oregon’s) Columbia Valley created two 97-point white wines, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Roussanne, from a region that is often too hot to achieve the balance necessary for white wines to really shine.

Chardonnays from the Willamette Valley, Sonoma Coast and Santa Barbara continue to impress in 2025, with warming conditions often having them outpacing their Burgundian cousin, Pinot Noir.

There are 13 Chardonnays in this Top 50 list, including a stunning wine from the Santa Cruz Mountains.

For good measure, there’s also Carricante from Sonoma County, a Chenin Blanc from Mendocino and a Finger Lakes Riesling that we thought were exceptional.

Decanter Top 50 US Wines: 50-41

Tasting notes and scores are linked in this list

50: Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Monticello, Virginia, USA 2017

49: L’Aventure, Estate Reserve, Paso Robles, California 2022

48: Apollo’s Praise, Dry Riesling, Lahoma Vineyard, Finger Lakes, NY 2024

47: Joseph Phelps, Proem #5 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, 2022

46: Valdemar Estates, Las Canteras Syrah, The Rocks District, Columbia Valley, Oregon, 2023

45: Domaine de la Côte, La Côte, Sta Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, 2022

44: Résonance, Koosah Vineyard Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2023

43: Rebrook Cellars, Montagna Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, 2022

42: Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California, 2023

41: Argot, Sage Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, 2022

Wines of place and wonderful places

Our first 10 wines show a fantastic range, welcoming Virginia, while Texas shows up a little further up the list, both for the first time.

We also have a repeat producer, Apollo’s Praise, representing the Finger Lakes. California is still the big dog, making more than 80% of the country’s wines. The Golden State appears 30 times, with most of our coverage in Napa and Sonoma, and that shows here.

There are a couple of wines from regions in the state that I cover, cooler climate appellations like Mendocino, the Santa Cruz Mountains, and we’ve seen more coverage from our Santa Barbara County correspondent, Vanessa Rason, resulting in more wines on this year’s list.

Oregon, both in the Willamette Valley and the Rocks District, which is technically part of the Columbia Valley (with Washington), is well represented, with 15 entries. A further validation of the state’s incredible terroir and talent.

Decanter Top 50 US Wines: 40-31

Tasting notes and scores are linked in this list

40: Reynvaan Family Vineyards, Stonessence The Rocks District, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon,2022

39: Thomas Fogarty, Damiana Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, 2023

38: Ernest Vineyards, Joyce Vineyard Chardonnay, West Sonoma Coast, California, USA 2022

37: William Chris, Enchanté, Texas Hill Country, Texas, 2023

36: Evesham Wood, Cuvée J Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2023

35: Devison Vintners, Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley, Oregon, 2022

34: Minus Tide, Chenin Blanc, Sterling Ranch, Mendocino County, California, 2024

33: Beaux Frères, Rogue Vines Chardonnay, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2023

32: FUTO Estate, CFX, Napa Valley, California, 2022

31: Gran Moraine, Dropstone Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2022 

The beauty and bravery of small producers

The reality is that this list is almost exclusively comprised of small producers. There are a few brands that are part of larger corporate entities, but this Top 50 features many small family businesses making some of America’s best wines.

In a challenging time for wine and for small businesses, there is plenty to be hopeful about here. Sure, some of these wines are hard to find, but their quality and recognition stem from being produced in small lots, with incredible attention to detail, immaculate farming, and undeniable winemaking talent.

From the likes of the talented Joe Ryan making the wines at Sonoma Coast’s Ernest Vineyards, to the long-time commitment to the Willamette Valley of the Casteel family at Bethel Heights, and the young bootstrapping upstarts at Minus Tide making imaginative and classic wines.

I’m more proud of that element of this list than anything else. I hope you will seek out these wines and the producers making them; they deserve your support.

Decanter Top 50 US Wines: 30-21

Tasting notes and scores are linked in this list

30: Jett, Skysill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley, Washington, 2022

29: Paul Lato, Le Souvenir, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, California, 2022

28: Hirsch Vineyards, Raschen Ridge Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, 2022

27: Abbott Claim, X Omni Vineyard Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2022

26: Cimento, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stone Valley Estate Vineyard, The Rocks District, Columbia Valley, Oregon,2021

25: Kathryn Kennedy, Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, 2022

24: Purlieu, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley, California, 2022

23: Centennial Mountain, Carricante, Sonoma County, California, 2022

22: Crowley, Phoebe Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2023

21: Storm Wines, Duvarita Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, 2023 

The rising tide of American wine

In what has to be described as a challenging time for the wine industry and America’s global reputation more broadly, American wine is more ready than ever for an international audience.

Long looked at as a land of bombastic and overripe wines, America’s current generation of talented winemakers has turned this narrative on its head. Chasing balance and freshness, this crop of American wines shows typicity and place through the restrained use of new oak, eschewing over-ripeness and higher alcohols in favour of acidity, minerality and balance.

It’s an exciting time for American wine. The wines defy the stereotypes of the Parker era; those days are in the past and the future is very bright.

Decanter Top 50 US Wines: 20-11

Tasting notes and scores are linked in this list

20: RAEN Winery, Fort Ross-Seaview Sea Field Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, 2023

19: Drew Family Cellars, Radiolaria Chardonnay, Mendocino Ridge, Mendocino County, California, 2023

18: Paradigm, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley, California, 2021

17: Littorai, Mays Canyon Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, USA 2023

16: The Black Square, Cabernet Sauvignon, The Rocks District, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon, 2022

15: Bryant Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, 2022

14: White Walnut Vineyard, Estate Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2023

13: Bedrock Wine Co, Areio e Vento e Amor, Contra Costa County, California, 2022

12: Di Costanzo, Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Moon Mountain, Sonoma County, California, 2022

11: Granville, Koosah Vineyard Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2023 

Number one

In a year of brilliant white wines, it was no surprise to me that the top wine on this list would be a Chardonnay and upon further consideration, a cool climate wine at that.

The High Wire Chardonnay tells a captivating story: that of a pioneering family, the Casteels, who purchased vineyards planted in 1978 upon their arrival in the Willamette Valley a year later.

A story of resilience, as this California heritage planting, Wente Clone, on its own roots, did not reliably ripen until fairly recently. It is a brilliant wine made by one of the country’s best winemakers, Ben Casteel.

You can read all about it here; it’s the first wine (and only so far) that I’ve ever given a perfect score to.

Decanter Top 50 US Wines: The Top 10

Tasting notes and scores are linked in this list

10: Pilcrow, Granite Lake Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain Napa Valley, California, 2022

9: Domain Jean François, Sanford & Benedict Proprietor’s Vineyard The Twelve Rows Chardonnay, Sta Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, 2021

8: Prophet & Poet, Ghost Cat Upper Barn Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California, 2021

7: Gård, Roussanne, Grand Klasse, Royal Slope, Columbia Valley, Washington, 2022

6: Cathiard Vineyard, St Helena, Napa Valley, California, 2022

5: Rhys Vineyards, Blanc de Blancs, Mt Pajaro Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, 2018

4: Martin Woods, Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2023

3: Colgin Cellars, IX Estate Syrah, Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley, California, 2021

2: Occidental, Bodega Headlands Cuvée Elizabeth Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, 2022

1: Bethel Heights, The High Wire Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2023 

Top 50 US Wines 2025: How the selections were made

The selections for Decanter’s Top 50 US wines were chosen from over 3,500 wines tasted and reviewed between December 2024 and November 2025. To be considered, they must be current or soon-to-be-released wines; library wines are not eligible.

They were selected to show a range of styles, places and exciting and emerging winemaking talent. This is not intended to be a list of the top-scoring wines of the year, but wines that show the brilliance and diversity of America’s winemaking talents and regions.

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Gaëlle Goossens, senior winemaker and research and development lead at Veuve Clicquot, took guests on a deep dive into the intricacies of Veuve Clicquot’s top Champagne, La Grande Dame.

As a self-proclaimed ‘geeky wine person’, Goossens was the perfect host for this in-depth masterclass, providing listeners with a rare behind-the-scenes look at the creation and evolution of an icon.

Scroll down for notes and scores for seven vintages of La Grande Dame

The wine line up consisted of four fairly recent La Grande Dame vintages (2018, 2015, 2012, 2008), followed by a selection of Grande Dame wines from the back vintage collection (1996, 1993, 1990).

‘They are very special, very rare, and they are completely different,’ said Goossens of the older vintages. ‘This is what we want to show today: that we have the same cuvée, but different expressions.’

Many will know that the DNA of Veuve Clicquot, thanks to the conviction of its founder Madame Clicquot-Ponsardin, is its extensive use of Pinot Noir across all the Champagnes in its range.

But Goossens took the audience beyond the house’s expertise with Pinot Noir, into the complexities and subtleties of creating the prestige cuvée of one of Champagne’s biggest houses.

The new 2018

The masterclass was also the perfect opportunity for guests to taste the new 2018 vintage of La Grande Dame, launched in April this year.

2018 was a warm vintage with an abundant crop of grapes. 2015 was also a very warm year. But, as guests discovered during the masterclass, the wines couldn’t be more different.

The key is soils and water. ‘In 2015 we lacked water, so the soils suffered from one of the worst droughts of Champagne,’ said Goossens. This lack of water caused the vines to stop maturing the grapes, which Goossens said gave the wines a minty, eucalyptus aftertaste.

Conversely, in 2018 ‘we had rain all year long, so the soils kept fresh and cold’. This is reflected in 2018’s superb balance of warm, sun-kissed fruit and a high-tension, mineral core.

Instead of the usual 10 years of ageing before release, ‘we deliberately released 2018 a bit earlier than what we’re used to’, said Goossens. And here’s the interesting part. She said this is because they realised they were losing the ‘terroir window’.

By releasing after 10 years of ageing, they would have passed the youthful, fresh, mineral, terroir-driven stage of the wine’s life, but it hadn’t quite reached its tertiary stage of development, so the wine would be sat somewhere in the middle phase.

Releasing it earlier allows the wine to show its youthful characters, as well as the influence of the terroir.

‘When we say the art of ageing, it’s not always pushing the boundaries of ageing in terms of length, it’s more mastering the ageing,’ said Goossens.

See our coverage of the 2018 launch here

The nitty gritty

The house’s use of micro-vinifications is one of the keys to its consistency, resulting in lots of small vats of wines with which to choose the final blend.

‘We’ll have a single vat from a single cru, from a single year, from a single variety,’ said Goossens.

To give an idea of scale, that means every year the winemaking team tastes 700 to 800 wines from a single harvest, plus 400 to 500 different reserve wines. ‘To elaborate our blend, we need to taste more than 1,000 wines over several months,’ she said.

The second key element that Goossens revealed is the blind tasting of these wines: ‘If you want to find the best wine, you have to blind taste.’

Creating a vintage of La Grande Dame is as much about strategic decision making as it is about the quality of the vintage.

Managing the stock of reserve wines plays a key role here; enough must be put aside each vintage to ensure there is enough to create the brand’s entry-level Yellow Label each year.

‘So La Grande Dame is only made when we have enough reserve wines in our winery, and when the Pinot Noir is really extraordinary,’ said Goossens.

The goal with La Grande Dame is to put the structure and texture of Pinot Noir alongside minerality and finesse. ‘But it’s extremely hard to find finesse with Pinot Noir, it’s easier to get bigger aromas than finesse,’ says Goossens.

Finding finesse, therefore, is also about where the grapes are sourced from, she said, and this is dependent on the vintage. In a warm year like 2018, grapes were sourced primarily from the cool north-facing slopes of the Montagne de Reims, notably Verzy and Verzenay.

‘What cellar master Didier Mariotti calls “the art of blending” is actually the art of finding the right crus for the right vintage,’ says Goossens.

La Grande Dame: One cuvée, myriad expressions

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 2018

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 2015

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 2012 (magnum)

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 2008 (magnum)

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 1996 (magnum)

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 1993 (magnum)

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 1990 (magnum)

Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame 1990 (jeroboam)

Guests had the rare opportunity to see just how different the same cuvée can taste, depending on the circumstance: from the vintage conditions, to how long it spent on lees, to when it was disgorged, to what format it was bottled in.

La Grande Dame through the ages

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This past weekend, with views of Manhattan made moody by spring rains, over 500 wine lovers ascended the 60 stories to Manhatta for the fourth annual New York Fine Wine Encounter.

This year’s Encounter featured sell-out masterclasses from Biondi-Santi, a special retrospective on aged Veuve Clicquot, and Rioja’s top wines.

Starting the morning with Champagne, winemaker and director of R&D at Veuve Clicquot, Gaëlle Goossens, and Decanter’s Natalie Earl led the tasting of seven different vintages. Attendees were offered real treats, including Veuve Grande Dame bottlings from 1996, 1993 and 1990, to demonstrate the ageability of the classic cuvée.

Biondi-Santi’s director of winemaking, Federico Radi, and Decanter’s Tina Gellie led guests through some very special bottles of this Brunello icon, including their Riserva Brunellos from 1988 and 1975. Among the very first names in Sangiovese, the Brunellos of Biondi-Santi are a true masterclass in one of the world’s very special wines.

Rioja was the name on everyone’s lips for the day, from the masterclass celebrating the DOCa’s 100 years with Master Sommelier Jonathan Eicholz and Decanter’s Ines Salpico, to the special Rioja bar, with some unbelievable options with plenty of age and a special lunch menu paired with the impressive buffet put on by Manhatta’s culinary team.

Our Decanter editorial team will provide extensive coverage over the next few days of each of the masterclasses.

While attendees were queuing for the early masterclass, our first VIP Editor’s Lunches were underway with a Champagne toast, followed by exclusive wines from select winemakers for our exclusive guests. The small groups were treated to philosophical conversations on the emerging elegance of North American Pinot Noir and timeless Napa icons that included magnums of Cabernet from the 1990s, Sonoma Coast Pinot rarities and a mini-masterclass in Niagara’s dynamic terroir from winemaker Thomas Bachelder. All of it tied with a bow that included a Decanter-only inside scoop from our Napa correspondent, Jonathan Cristaldi, and yours truly.

On the Grand Tasting floor, guests were entertained by 50 producers all pouring special cuvées as the rain lashed the floor-to-ceiling glass with dizzying views of Manhattan.

Winemaker Trey Fletcher, of Santa Barbara’s founding Sanford & Benedict, was pouring some fantastic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from this coastal region, and he was really impressed with the calibre of guests at his first DFWE. ‘The questions from the guests are great. They’re clearly here to learn, not just drink wine, many of them are properly tasting and spitting, which makes this a very unique crowd,’ Fletcher said.

Highlight wines on the day included the 2015 Cristom, Louise Vineyard Pinot Noir, which showed Oregon’s ageability; a 2010 bottling of Vérité’s La Joie and a very impressive Barolo from Damilano, their Cannubi Riserva, ‘1752.’

Guests found plenty to be excited about among the 50 producers, the extensive offerings from the DWWA award-winning bar, and a deep selection of Rioja wines into the early evening.

As the clouds parted and rays of sun came to end the day, wine lovers left content and counting the days to the DFWE in 2026.

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The New York Distilling Company (NYDC) is located in the heart of Brooklyn, between the indie boutiques of Williamsburg and the brownstone apartments of Bedford-Stuyvesant.

It’s a world away from Loch Lomond Distillery, which produces award-winning Scotch whisky amid a vast expanse of lakes and mountains in West Dunbartonshire.

However, Loch Lomond Group has been quietly expanding its empire in recent years. The firm bolstered its portfolio by purchasing Champagne Piaff in 2021, and it also owns Glen’s Vodka, one of the largest retail spirits brands in the UK.

The NYDC range will join a broad portfolio of whiskies within the group, including single malts from Loch Lomond, Glen Scotia and Littlemill.

Colin Matthews, founder and CEO of Loch Lomond Group, said: ‘This acquisition represents another milestone in the continued growth of the Loch Lomond Group.

‘We look forward to working closely with the talented and ambitious team at NYDC to invest in both the facilities and products, while supercharging its growth both domestically in the US and around the world through the existing Loch Lomond Group distribution network as well as providing our help and expertise in the continued creation of fabulous flavours.’

The Scotch whisky industry has been caught in the crossfires of US President Donald Trump’s latest tariff war. The industry lost £600m in sales during an 18-month period when Trump last imposed tariffs in 2019-20, according to the Scotch Whisky Association.

As such, it makes strategic sense for Loch Lomond Group to purchase an American whiskey producer.

The acquisition includes the 3,000 sq ft. urban distillery and visitor centre, plus NYDC’s full suite of brands. The flagship brand is Jaywalk Rye, but the company also produces Mister Katz’s Rock & Rye, Dorothy Parker gin and Perry Tot’s Navy strength gin.

‘We are excited to work with Colin and the Loch Lomond Group team to help us further grow our fantastic brands around the world,’ said NYDC co-founders Allen Katz and Tom Potter.

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Join us on Saturday 7 June in New York City as we raise a glass to Rioja DOCa – Spain’s most iconic wine region – at a special centenary edition of the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter.

The day features the famous Grand Tasting, which promises a world-class wine experience showcasing over 300 fine wines from over 50 top producers. Guests will also enjoy standout selections from the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards — the world’s largest wine competition, including Gold, Platinum and Best in Show winners.

Among the international producers, Rioja DOCa takes centre stage, with an exclusive tasting bar, a masterclass and standout wines showcased across Rioja producer stands (this part needs re wording)

Discover 29 Rioja wines across the bar and producer stands

Experience 29 handpicked Rioja wines available at the Rioja Bar and producer stands — from historic estates to trailblazing newcomers, the selection reflects the region’s extraordinary diversity and depth. Enjoy unlimited pours from icons such as CVNE, Bodegas Queirón, Bodegas LAN, Marqués de Cáceres, to name a few.

Notable highlights include:

• Martínez Lacuesta, 125 Años Gran Reserva, Rioja 2010 – 94 points
• Bodegas Remirez de Ganuza 2014 – 94 points
• Bodegas Alvia, Livius Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2018 – 93 points
• Bodegas LAN, Culmen Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2019 – 93 points

Access to the Rioja Bar is included with all Grand Tasting tickets — $225 per person.

EXPLORE THE FULL RIOJA BAR LINE-UP

Rioja DOCa masterclass

4:00 pm –5:15pm | $165 per person

For those looking to delve deeper into Rioja’s legacy, an exclusive masterclass will be held, hosted by Master Sommelier Jonathan Eichholz and Decanter’s Ines Salpico, offering a guided journey through 100 years of Rioja winemaking. Taste your way through the past, present and future of Rioja with a stunning line-up of iconic wines — from rare Gran Reservas to collectible modern expressions. Featured producers include La Rioja Alta, Marqués de Murrieta, Remírez de Ganuza, CVNE, Montecillo, and more.

Spaces are very limited!

BOOK YOUR SEAT

Skyline lunch with complimentary Rioja wines

In between tastings, take a moment to relax for a buffet-style lunch overlooking the Manhattan skyline, paired with a selection of complimentary wines courtesy of our sponsors Rioja DOCa. It’s the perfect palate refresher in the midst of a busy tasting day.

Pre-booking is advised, though walk-ins are welcome pending availability.

Complimentary wine selection:

White

Bodegas Manzanos Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2020

*

Rosé

Hacienda López de Haro, Clásica Gran Reserva Rosado, Rioja, Spain 2013

*

Red

Vina Muriel, Solariego Tinto Vino de Elciego, Alavesa 2019

Muga, Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta, Spain 2016

Bodegas Riojanas, Viña Albina Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta 2004

Don’t miss this world-class wine experience in the heart of New York City. Discover why Rioja remains Spain’s most respected fine wine region — 100 years on.

BOOK A LUNCH WITH A VIEW

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax | Masterclass tickets from $165

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Wine lovers gathered last week for a special preview tasting at the elegant Millesima USA store on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, offering a glimpse into the exceptional wines featured in the upcoming Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) New York, which takes place on Saturday, 7 June.

This exclusive evening allowed a select group of Millesima guests to experience a curated tasting of wines from each masterclass, as well as a broader selection of rare and prestigious bottles from top producers who would be pouring at the Grand Tasting.

Guests were treated to a lineup of fine wines, showcasing both renowned houses and hidden gems, from legendary labels: Laurent-Perrier, Drappier, Nino Negri, San Felice, Marchesi di Barolo, Biondi Santi and Veuve Clicquot, plus a glimpse into the most collectible and sought-after wines from Rioja DOCa.

The tasting had a convivial atmosphere where attendees explored a variety of styles and engaged in insightful conversations with Decanter’s US Editor, Clive Pursehouse, while gaining a deeper understanding of what to expect at the June event.

‘It was exciting to share a preview of what’s in store,’ said Pursehouse. ‘Masterclass attendees in June can expect an extraordinary tasting experience, including exceptional back vintages of Biondi Santi spanning 35 years and a 50-year-old bottling. What particularly excited people was the rare deep dive into Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame, where vintages going back 35 years will show it’s a wine that aspires to stand among the world’s finest champagnes.’

The evening was a resounding success, and both Decanter and Millesima expressed gratitude for their guests’ enthusiastic participation.

‘We’re thrilled to have hosted such a passionate group of wine lovers,‘ said Fabrizio Germano, General Manager of Millesima USA. ‘It was a true pleasure to share these wines with you.’

Don’t miss the DFWE New York on Saturday, 7 June for an unforgettable day of world-class wines. Tickets are limited and going fast. Secure your place now and be part of one of the year’s top wine events.

Buy Tickets

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax (save with group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $165

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At the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) NYC, a handpicked selection of New World trailblazers is redefining what excellence looks like beyond the traditional strongholds of Europe. These six producers from the New World are not just making outstanding wines, they are pushing boundaries, setting new standards, and changing the way we think about fine wine.

From the cool-climate vineyards of Canada to the rugged beauty of Tasmania, these standout wineries show that fine wine today is global, dynamic, and full of the fresh energy driving the New World forward. Prepare to discover the producers redefining what fine wine means in the modern era – and the exceptional bottles you’ll have the chance to experience.

Rutini – Uco Valley, Mendoza, ArgentinaRutini, Single Vineyard Malbec, 2017

Argentina’s Malbec is famous the world over – but Rutini’s Single Vineyard expression shows there’s so much more to discover. Grown high in the Uco Valley, this Malbec combines bold, ripe fruit with a surprising elegance and a streak of mineral freshness. It’s a polished, terroir-driven wine that connects Argentina’s rich winemaking tradition with its exciting, forward-looking future. A powerful reminder of why Mendoza remains one of the world’s most exciting wine regions today.

Stark-Condé – Stellenbosch, South AfricaStark-Condé, Oude Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Jonkershoek Valley in South Africa has always been a hidden gem, and Stark-Condé’s Oude Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon is its standout wine. This bottle brings together the best of both worlds, with the structure of a classic Bordeaux and the bright, vibrant style of the New World. It’s a perfect example of how South African wine continues to evolve and impress.

House of Arras – Tasmania, AustraliaHouse of Arras, E.J. Carr Late Disgorged, 2006

Tasmania’s cool climate is perfect for sparkling wine, but House of Arras takes it even further. Crafted with over a decade of lees aging, the E.J. Carr Late Disgorged stands shoulder to shoulder with the world’s best sparkling wines. It’s a trailblazing example of how Australia’s island state is crafting wines of remarkable finesse and longevity.

Bachelder — Niagara, Ontario, CanadaBachelder, Hanck Pinot Noir, 2022

If you’re a fan of cool-climate Pinot Noir, Thomas Bachelder’s Hanck Pinot from Niagara is one to look out for. This wine is fresh, expressive, and bursting with vibrant energy. It perfectly captures the excitement of Canada’s rising reputation in the world of fine wine.

Leyda – San Antonio, ChileLeyda, Origin, Leyda Valley, 2022

Close to the Pacific Ocean, the Leyda Valley is redefining Chilean wine with its focus on freshness and coastal influence. Leyda’s Origin bottling bursts with energy – vivid fruit, mouth-watering acidity, and a crisp, modern profile that reflects Chile’s dynamic new era of winegrowing.

Yalumba – Barossa, AustraliaYalumba, The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, 2018 (Magnum)

As Australia’s oldest family-owned winery, Yalumba perfectly balances tradition with fearless innovation. The Octavius, made from some of Barossa’s oldest Shiraz vines, delivers a powerful yet beautifully refined expression. Matured in custom-made small oak barrels, it’s a brilliant example of how Australian fine wine continues to evolve.

Trailblazers, Rewriting the Rules

These trailblazing producers show that fine wine today is bigger, bolder, and more exciting than ever. At the DFWE New York, you’ll have the chance to discover new favourites, explore fresh expressions of classic grapes, and see how the New World is shaping the future of wine.

Meet the trailblazers at DFWE NYC

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax | Masterclass tickets from $165

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New York is home to one of the world’s most robust wine scenes, with bottles from every corner of the world offered across a myriad of well-curated lists. From hole-in-the-wall natural wine bars to Michelin-starred restaurants, there’s something for every specific wine preference out there, but as always, knowing where to venture is key. Although conquering the city’s wine scene is a lifetime-long feat, we’ve distilled some of Manhattan’s best wine spots down into a three-day itinerary here.

For an immersive experience, don’t miss the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York on Saturday June 7 – an unmissable event for wine lovers. Tickets are selling fast, be sure to book your tickets to avoid disappointment.

Friday – Midtown focus

Morning

Whether arriving at JFK or Newark, taking public transportation into Manhattan will likely land you at Penn Station or Grand Central, which are located in Midtown West and Midtown East respectively. We recommend starting your first wine-focused day slightly below Midtown in Chelsea, then working your way up to explore the meat of the tourist attractions in the heart of the city – though worry not, touristy areas in New York don’t necessarily mean sacrificing on the wine front.

For breakfast, hit Café Chelsea, the French-American bistro located within the iconic Hotel Chelsea. The spot is known for its all-day dining, with various omelettes, toasts and breakfast sandwiches available as early as 7AM. For those looking for a little morning pick-me-up, a handful of fun sparklings are available by the glass, including Tissot’s Crémant du Jura Rosé and Terre de Solemme NV Champagne.

Post-morning fuel, head west to stroll the city’s famed High Line, a 1.45-mile-long elevated greenway located on former train tracks. In about seven-10 blocks, you’ll land at the up-and-coming Hudson Yards neighbourhood, where high-end shopping and the relatively new Vessel structure are open for exploration. For fun pours nearby, check out Mercado Little Spain, spearheaded by José Andrés, or explore the lists at nearby Ci Siamo or Estiatorio Milos for lunch.

Afternoon

After a hearty lunch in Hudson Yards, continue north into the low 40s for a quick jaunt through Times Square – a few quick photos should suffice, and if you’ve been to Manhattan already, skip this step – then continue east for a pit stop in Bryant Park to re-caffeinate at Bluestone Lane or maman (be sure to take your brews to go, should the weather permit). Stroll over to Grand Central Terminal to take in the revered celestial roof murals, and grab a quick glass of pre-dinner bubbly at the station’s famous Oyster Bar to really immerse yourself in the ambiance.

For a more extensive pre-dinner wine alternative, head slightly north into the 50s and check out Aldo Sohm Wine Bar. Spearheaded by the spot’s namesake sommelier, this cozy New York staple showcases around 30 by-the-glass pours at all time, as well as an expansive bottle list and hearty snack offerings.

Evening

Midtown restaurants are a dime a dozen, though those boasting exceptional wine lists are fewer and farther between. For a well-curated selection focused on French and Italian picks, check out Jupiter in Rockefeller Center. Overseen by the dynamic trio behind downtown hotspot King, the restaurant serves up handmade pastas and seasonal specials. For those looking for a classic fine dining option, Eric Ripert’s three-Michelin star Le Bernardin never disappoints (reservations required). For those dining solo, snag a bar seat at The Modern to enjoy one of the best lists in the city.

Saturday – Downtown focus

Morning

Breakfast can go a million different ways in the city, from long and leisurely brunches to quick, on-the-go bites while sightseeing. For the former, start your downtown adventures at Le Gratin, Daniel Boulud’s latest French bistro (which also boasts an impressive wine list, in true Dinex fashion). For a later – and boozier – brunch start, a visit to The Dead Rabbit for traditional Irish Breakfast and the city’s best Irish coffees is a must. Looking for something to quickly take on the go? Head to Russ & Daughters for some of the best bagels in town.

There are numerous eclectic neighbourhoods to explore below 14th Street, including the East Village, West Village, SoHo, Financial District and more. For those looking to simply enjoy a breath of fresh air before lunch, a leisurely stroll through Battery Park is a classic move, then slowly make your way up through Chinatown to explore the neighbourhood’s streets, as well as the city’s famed Little Italy stretch on Mulberry Street. While there, Pasquale Jones is a great spot for grabbing wood-fired pizzas served alongside a serious wine list.

Afternoon

Nearby, Champers Social Club is also a great option for all-day dining and bubbly, and La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels offers fantastic small plates and a 57-page wine list (note: La Compagnie opens at 3PM on Saturdays). Post-lunch, head west and keep the wine kick going while strolling and shopping through the West Village at St. Jardim, which focuses on small plates and a natural-leaning list, or grab a few pours at Terroir in Tribeca, best known for showcasing an impressive 100+ wines by the glass at all times.

After shopping and sight-seeing through the west side of downtown Manhattan, make your way back east to gear up for dinner – and of course, more wine. For a pit stop before you eat, look no further than the centrally located wine bar Corkbuzz. Spearheaded by Laura Maniec, this long-standing institution is known for its curated flights, blind tasting pours, and best of all, epic retail-price Champagne list.

Evening

Post-Corkbuzz pours, complete your downtown day in the city’s buzzy East Village / Lower East Side neighbourhoods, which are home to a slew of newly opened places with unmissable wine lists. Noteworthy picks include Claud, a European-inspired bistro founded by Momofuku Ko alumni Joshua Pinsky and Chase Sinzer. For a seafood-focused option, look no further than Penny, the duo’s raw bar and seafood counter located upstairs from the restaurant.

Still up for more wine? Hop a 10-minute cab or 20-minute bus down to the Lower East Side to explore the neighbourhood’s most popular wine bars, including Somm Time, a natural-leaning spot with ample vegetarian / vegan small plates, and Skin Contact, which is also known for its focus on small-production, low-intervention wines.

Sunday – Uptown focus

Morning

Quiet mornings Uptown are the perfect way to kick off a slow, leisurely Sunday in Manhattan. Start your day with a Viennese-inspired brunch at Café Sabarsky, which offers a step back in time to European-influenced NYC of yesteryear – and boasts a serious list of Austrian Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings to boot. For a booze-free alternative, head to Ralph’s Coffee at 888 Madison Avenue for coffee, pastries, and authentic Upper East Side vibes. Pass the time between breakfast and lunch by wandering through Central Park. A loop around the reservoir is not to be missed – same goes for a stroll past the Boathouse and Belvedere Castle.

Afternoon

Should you land on the Upper West Side, a long lunch at Nice Matin promises a good time. Or should you prefer lunch on the Upper East Side, a wine-fuelled meal at Café d’Alsace is not to be missed. Both restaurants are home to some of the city’s most overlooked – and underrated – wine lists.

Uptown Manhattan is known for its plentiful museum offerings, and those making a day out of it would be remiss to not jump on the opportunity to explore them. If art museums are more your thing, The Met and / or the Guggenheim are timeless options, and for history buffs, the Museum of Natural History provides a fun escape from the craziness of the city.

Evening

For pre-dinner glasses (or bottles), pop into the bar at Maison Barnes, another Daniel Boulud establishment, located just two blocks down from the chef’s famed namesake restaurant. To end your weekend in Manhattan on a high note, stop in for dinner at the newly opened Chez Fifi, a two-storey townhouse turned bistro on 74th Street – and for those looking to score back-vintage bottles at seriously good prices, a visit to Eli’s Table on 3rd Avenue promises to leave a lasting impression.

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With over 50 producers pouring at this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) New York, they’ll be no shortage of incredible wines to discover. But among the many gems, a few bottles truly stand out. Whether it’s a rare vintage an impressive magnum or a wine with a great story behind it – these are the ones we think you’ll want to taste.

Here are five of our insider favourites to look out for on the day.

1. Château Lascombes

Château Lascombes, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2008

Poured from magnum

This Second Growth estate in Margaux has been making wine for centuries, and their 2008 vintage is showing beautifully now. Expect silky tannins, dark berries, and that classic Bordeaux structure. Tasting it from magnum makes the experience even more special.

 2. Drappier

Drappier, Réserve de l’Oenothèque, Champagne, France 2006

Poured from magnum

A rare release from Drappier’s cellar, the Réserve de l’Oenothèque is a Champagne aged extensively on lees for remarkable complexity. The 2006 vintage has notes of brioche, citrus and spice, with a fine, persistent mousse. It’s a Champagne that feels both luxurious and full of life. A must-taste for sparkling wine fans.

3. Remírez de Ganuza

Remírez de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2011

Poured from double magnum

This producer is a benchmark in modern Rioja, known for meticulous attention to detail and a bold, polished style. The 2011 Reserva – served from a rare double magnum – offers layers of ripe red fruit, spice, and fine oak integration. A serious wine with serious presence.

4. Trefethen Family Vineyards

Trefethen, HāLo, Napa Valley, California, USA 2012

Special single-vineyard Cabernet

Named after the founders’ children, HaLo is Trefethen’s flagship Cabernet Sauvignon, made only in the best vintages from their Hillside Vineyard. The 2012 has reached a beautiful point in its evolution – rich and layered, with dark fruit, cocoa and fine tannins. A powerful Napa Cabernet with elegance to match.

5. DeLille Cellars

DeLille Cellars, Harrison Hill, Snipes Mountain, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA 2015

One of Washington’s hidden gems

This Bordeaux-style blend comes from one of Washington State’s oldest vineyards, and it’s a real hidden gem. With only a few acres planted, Harrison Hill is a true insider’s pick. The 2015 vintage shows plush blackcurrant, earthy complexity, and remarkable finesse – proof that Washington can go toe-to-toe with the world’s best.

Of course, these are just a few highlights. With so many great producers in one place, the best part of DFWE NYC is exploring, discovering and finding your own favourite along the way. Every table promises something unique.

Grand Tasting Special Wines Full List

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax | Masterclass tickets from $165

Related articles

• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2025
• Italy’s movers & shakers: Unmissable producers at DFWE New York
• US wineries at DFWE New York: American winemaking at its finest

The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) returns to New York on 7 June Saturday, bringing together some of the world’s most prestigious producers for an unforgettable day of tasting. This year’s line-up includes a standout selection of wineries from across the United States, offering guests the chance to discover the quality, diversity and innovation driving American fine wine today.

From iconic Napa Valley estates to pioneering producers in Oregon and Washington, these wineries represent the best of modern American winemaking. Here’s who to look out for on the day:

Cristom Vineyards

Willamette Valley, Oregon

Cristom is one of Oregon’s most respected Pinot Noir producers, blending traditional winemaking with a deep respect for the land. Family-owned and rooted in the Eola-Amity Hills, their wines are known for their balance, elegance, and ageability. Each vineyard is farmed organically, and each bottle tells a story of place. If you’re curious about Oregon Pinot Noir, Cristom is the perfect place to start.

Quintessa

Napa Valley, California

A biodynamic estate in the heart of Rutherford, Quintessa produces a single, estate-grown wine that reflects the complexity of its diverse vineyard— only making one wine each year. Known for its elegance and ageability, Quintessa is a benchmark in Napa Valley.

La Jota Vineyard Co.

Howell Mountain, California

Established in 1898, La Jota is known for bold, structured Cabernet Sauvignon grown at high elevation on Howell Mountain. At DFWE NYC, guests can enjoy a magnum of their 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, full bodied and rich, with notes of blackberry, herbs, and a firm, age worthy finish.

Vérité

Sonoma County, California

One of Sonoma’s most acclaimed producers, Vérité creates Bordeaux-style blends of remarkable precision and longevity. Their wines consistently receive top critical acclaim. Guests will be able to taste La Joie 2010, a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend.

Sanford Winery

Santa Barbara County, California

Sanford was one of the first to plant Pinot Noir in the now-iconic Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Its Sanford & Benedict Vineyard remains a benchmark site for the region. Attendees can taste a single-vineyard Pinot Noir from 2019 that highlights the purity, freshness and detail of this cool-climate region

Appassionata Estate

Dundee Hills, Oregon

Founded by German winemaker Ernst Loosen, Appassionata focuses on structured, age-worthy wines from the Willamette Valley. The estate will pour its 2012 Fortissimo Pinot Noir from magnum—an extended-aged release that demonstrates Oregon’s potential for longevity and elegance.

Cobb Wines

Sonoma Coast, California

Cobb has built a strong reputation for Pinot Noirs that highlight specific vineyard sites along the Sonoma Coast. Known for a delicate, site-driven approach, Cobb’s wines are elegant, aromatic, and full of character — ideal for those looking to explore the more refined side of California Pinot.

L’Ecole N° 41

Walla Walla Valley, Washington

One of Washington State’s most respected family-run wineries, L’Ecole has been making balanced, expressive wines for over 40 years. They’re known for combining bold flavours with elegance — don’t miss the chance to discover what makes Walla Walla special .

Discover the Best of the US at DFWE New York

This line-up brings together some of the most respected names in US wine. Join us at Manhatta on Saturday 7 June to meet the producers, taste their flagship wines, and explore what makes the US one of the most exciting wine regions in the world.

View the wineries

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax | Masterclass tickets from $165

Related articles

• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2025
• Italy’s movers & shakers: Unmissable producers at DFWE New York
• DWWA Winners’ Bar: A spectacular scene at the DFWE NYC

Our guide to Manhattan restaurant wine lists

While the number of Manhattan restaurant wine lists worth checking out goes far beyond the confines of one article, we’ve rounded up 10 of our favourite spots for eating and drinking right now.

The saying goes that wine is best enjoyed with food, and in the realm of exceptional lists, New York is home to some of the world’s greatest.

From long-standing classics to new-to-the-scene seafood counters, Korean fried chicken joints, and more, the city is brimming with versatile wine lineups that promise to leave a lasting impression – it’s simply a matter of knowing where to look.

For those eager to deepen their appreciation of fine wine, the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York returns on Saturday 6 June and is not to be missed.

Manhattan restaurant wine lists: 10 of the best

Borgo

124 E 27th St, New York, NY 10016

New York boasts no shortage of cozy Italian restaurants, though few offer a wine list as impressive as Borgo’s. Opened in late 2024, the space represents the first Manhattan-based venture for Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow (Diner, Marlow & Sons, Roman's), and has quickly captured neighbourhood hearts with its wood-fired focaccia, homemade pastas, and impressively curated wine list.

In addition to eclectic sparkling and rosé offerings—think picks from I Vigneri, Radikon, and Emidio Pepe—the rest of the list leans French and Italian heavy, featuring extensive selections from Piedmont, Tuscany, Burgundy, and Sicily.

Whether hearth-cooked pastas or wood-fired meats and veggies are what you’re craving, Borgo’s got the perfect bottle—and unmatched ambiance—to go with.

Café Carmellini

250 5th Ave, New York, NY 10001

Opened in late 2023, Café Carmellini is situated inside the sophisticated Fifth Avenue Hotel, and is spearheaded by namesake chef Andrew Carmellini.

The wine list, which is curated and overseen by Master Sommelier Josh Nadel, features 1,800 selections from both highly regarded and lesser-known producers alike, with a heavy emphasis on France, Italy and the United States.

Stop in for the restaurant’s daily lunch deal, which offers three courses for $85, and peruse the list for something equally exciting.

Chambers

94 Chambers St #1, New York, NY 10007

Located in the former space of past downtown wine destination Racines, Chambers offers a breath of fresh air – and an impeccably curated wine list – to New York’s Financial District.

Spearheaded by Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier, Chambers’ sustainability-forward wine list highlights a myriad of natural, organic and biodynamic producers, featuring up-and-coming names to long-standing legends alike.

Best of all, over a third of the restaurant’s space is saved for walk-ins, and is offered on a first-come, first-serve basis. Come for the 88-page list, stay for the small bites, and grab one of the many (and we mean many) selections of Chartreuse available before heading out.

COQODAQ

12 E 22nd St, New York, NY 10010

Champagne lovers, this one’s for you. Coqodaq’s list is dazzled with over 400 Champagne selections alone, making it the largest Champagne restaurant lineup in the country.

Helmed by Simon Kim and beverage director and partner Victoria James, the pair behind nearby COTE Korean Steakhouse, Coqodaq’s knockout list also features an equally exciting selection of still white, red and rosé wines, the majority of which hail from small, artisanal producers around the globe.

Keep this entry at the top of your Bucket List (don’t worry, you’ll get the pun after you check this unmissable restaurant out for yourself).

Gramercy Tavern

2 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003

Established in 1994 by restaurateur Danny Meyer, Gramercy Tavern has been a New York wine institution for over 30 years, and somehow, the programme continues to get better and better.

The Bible-like beverage list spans an impressive 96 pages, and features a variety of global regions, styles and varieties. Fans of Champagne, Burgundy and German Riesling will take delight in the list’s extensive offerings, and those on a budget will find a myriad of fun options on the programme’s ‘Bottles for a Benjamin’ page, each of which clock in at exactly $100 even.

Jupiter

20 W 50th St (Rink Level) New York, NY 10020

Founded by the star trio behind beloved downtown restaurant King, Jupiter offers a welcome reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Rockefeller Center, featuring handmade pastas, well-executed vegetables, and a robust wine list focused on French, Italian and Californian offerings.

Expect classic selections from the likes of Roulot, Roagna, and Quintarelli, as well as a number of picks from new-to-the-scene producers from lesser-known Italian regions (Lazio, Umbria and more).

Le Chêne

76 Carmine St, New York, NY 10014

Le Chêne is breathing new life into New York’s French dining scene, with a Bible-like wine list to boot. The first solo project for husband-wife duo Alexia Duchêne and Ronan Duchêne Le May, the restaurant focuses on classic French dishes and seasonal ingredients, with menu staples including crab thermidor, foie gras terrine, and the renowned Pithiviers Terre & Mer, prepared with potato gratin, pork farce, smoked eel, and beetroot condiment.

The extensive wine list, overseen by Duchêne Le May (formerly of Cafe Boulud), leans French-heavy, with robust Burgundy, Champagne, and back-vintage Bordeaux offerings.

Beyond the restaurant’s equally well-curated list of cocktails and digestifs, we found the best way to end a meal is with a splash of 15-year-old Château d'Yquem, poured from a massive six-litre bottle kept proudly on display in the back of the dining room.

Penny

90 E 10th St 1st Floor, New York, NY 10003

Located upstairs from its sister restaurant Claud, Penny is the seafood-focused brainchild of Joshua Pinsky and Chase Sinzer, and like its older sibling, is home to one of the best wine lists in the city.

This small-yet-fierce East Village fish counter exclusively features counter seating (31 stools are available), and all 17 dishes incorporate some form of seafood in their regimen – making it no surprise that the 1,000-bottle list leans white and sparkling heavy.

Expect extensive Grower Champagne selections from Prévost, Chartogne-Taillet and Elise Bougy, as well as a healthy Burgundy selection (back vintages included).

Saint Urban

43 E 20th St, New York, NY 10003

Saint Urban is one of New York’s most exciting and underrated dining destinations for wine lovers. Opened in May 2025 in the former Veritas space, the wine-focused restaurant features a rotating monthly tasting menu centred around a globally renowned region, with curated pours served alongside each course.

Chef Jared Stafford-Hill, who spearheads both the kitchen and the wine list, offers both four and seven-course options, with past themes including Burgundy, Piedmont, Champagne, and the Northern Rhône.

While Stafford-Hill’s wine pairings are undoubtedly the star of the show, those who prefer to sip by the bottle can choose from a seemingly endless amount of options spread across a show-stopping 140 pages.

Reservations open one month in advance; see the Saint Urban website to view upcoming regional features.

The Modern

9 W 53rd St, New York, NY 10019

The Modern’s wine list has been deemed the best in the city by various wine professionals over the years, and it’s really no surprise why. While the dining certainly errs towards the higher-end of the spectrum, the wine list spans the gamut of styles and regions, with offerings beyond the standard go-to regions.

Expect lengthy offerings from South Africa and Australia as well as Spain, Portugal and beyond. The Modern’s list comprises over 3,000 selections, and spans a monumental 177 pages, with a solid number of bottles clocking in under $100.

Ten additional Manhattan restaurant wine lists to explore:

Crown Shy – 70 Pine St. New York, NY 10005

Daniel – 60 E 65th St, New York, NY 10065

Eleven Madison Park – 11 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10010

Eli's Table – 1413 3rd Ave, New York, NY 10028

Le Bernardin – 155 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019

Nice Matin – 201 W 79th St, New York, NY 10024

Noreetuh – 128 1st Ave., New York, NY 10009

Pinch Chinese – 177 Prince St, New York, NY 10012

Roscioli NYC – 43 MacDougal St, New York, NY 10012

The Noortwyck – 289 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014

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On Saturday 7 June, Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York (DFWE NYC) will bring together some of Italy’s most exciting names in wine for an exclusive Grand Tasting and an unmissable Biondi-Santi masterclass.

If you’re passionate about Barolo, Brunello, Amarone, or Italy’s hidden gems, this is your chance to meet the producers, taste legendary wines, and discover the future of Italian fine wine – all in one day.

Meet the Italian producers defining excellence

Our Grand Tasting features an all-star lineup of Italy’s finest winemakers. From age-worthy Nebbiolo to the richness of Amarone and the elegance of Trentodoc, these producers are shaping the future of Italian wine:

Piedmont’s powerhouses: Barolo and beyond

Few wines capture the elegance and power of Barolo. These producers define the category:

Damilano – Pouring their Barolo Cannubi Riserva “1752” 2017 an exquisite example from one of the region’s most prestigious vineyards.

Marchesi di Barolo – A producer deeply tied to Barolo’s origins, showcasing the elegant Barolo Coste di Rose 2016.

Pio Cesare – A family-run winery since 1881 known for delivering structured and age-worthy Barolos and Barbarescos.

Poderi Luigi Einaudi– Founded by Italy’s first president, this winery’s Barolo Monvigliero 2018 (magnum) is known for its floral elegance and finesse.

Tuscany: The Heart of Sangiovese & Super Tuscans

From Chianti Classico to Super Tuscans, Tuscany continues to be one of the most dynamic wine regions in Italy. Expect iconic producers like:

Mazzei – A family with over 600 years of winemaking history, Ipsus 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione represents the pinnacle of Sangiovese.

San Felice– Showcasing their iconic “Poggio Rosso” Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011, a benchmark for the category.

Tenuta Sette Ponti – The estate behind some of Tuscany’s greatest Super Tuscans, including the powerhouse Oreno 2010 (magnum).

Lamole di Lamole – A rising star crafting high-altitude Chianti Classico wines with striking elegance.

Veneto: The Elegance of Amarone

Pasqua– Known for their bold and structured Amarone, their Mai Dire Mai 2012 (magnum) is rich and complex.

Zenato – A key name in Amarone della Valpolicella, their Amarone Riserva Sergio Zenato 2015 is velvety and intense.

Italy’s hidden gems:

Discover the diversity of Italian terroirs, from Alpine vineyards to the dramatic slopes of Mount Etna

Nino Negri (Lombardy) – High-altitude Nebbiolo from Valtellina, featuring the refined Vigna Fracia Valtellina Superiore Valgella 2018 (magnum).

Ferrari Trento (Trentino) – The pioneers of Trentodoc sparkling wines, pouring the Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2010 (magnum).

Cantine Nicosia (Sicily) – A champion of Etna’s volcanic terroir, showcasing the complex Monte Gorna Vecchie Viti Riserva 2017 (magnum).

Don’t Miss Your Chance to Taste Italy’s Finest Wines

The DFWE NYC is your opportunity to explore these iconic estates up close, meet the producers, and taste wines that define Italy’s legacy and future.

Secure your spot at the Grand Tasting

Experience Six Decades of Biondi-Santi: An exclusive tasting

This masterclass is your rare chance to explore the estate that put Brunello di Montalcino on the map.

No name in Italian wine carries quite the same legendary status as Biondi-Santi – the founding estate of Brunello di Montalcino. Known for its extraordinary longevity, Biondi-Santi’s wines have captivated collectors and connoisseurs for generations.

During this masterclass, you will taste across six decades of Biondi-Santi’s Brunello, led by Director of Winemaking Federico Radi. From the youthful vibrancy of Rosso di Montalcino 2022 to the nearly 50-year-old Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1975, this masterclass is a deep dive into the power, elegance, and aging potential of one of Italy’s most iconic wineries.

The wine selection

Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2022

Biondi-Santi, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2019 (98 points)

Biondi-Santi, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2015 (96 points)

Biondi-Santi, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2018 (94 points)

Biondi-Santi, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2004

Biondi-Santi, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1997 (99 points)

Biondi-Santi, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1988

Biondi-Santi, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1975 (94 points)

Tickets are selling fast – Book your place now

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax | Masterclass tickets from $165

Related articles

• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2025
• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2024: Highlights
• DWWA Winners’ Bar: A spectacular scene at the DFWE NYC

The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York, is returning to the dynamic heart of New York City on Saturday June 7 for the fourth consecutive year.

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or an enthusiastic wine lover, this event promises a day of discovery, conversation, and an exceptional tasting experience.

What to expect:

• An all day Grand Tasting, featuring over 50 prestigious wineries from across the globe, each unveiling a special, iconic wine carefully selected from their cellar
• The opportunity to meet and learn from top winemakers and industry experts
• A carefully curated selection of exclusive masterclasses led by the legendary Veuve Clicquot and Biondi-Santi
• Celebrate 100 years of the Rioja DOCa with a dedicated Rioja experience, featuring a Rioja-focused bar and an exclusive masterclass highlighting the region’s heritage and Spain’s most coveted wines
• All this takes place at the breathtaking Manhatta venue, perched 60 floors above the city, offering stunning panoramic views of the iconic New York skyline

With past events selling out quickly, you don’t miss out on this must-attend event. Secure your tickets today.

Buy Tickets

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 7 June 2025 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax (save with group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $165

Related articles

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• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2024: Highlights
• DWWA Winners’ Bar: A spectacular scene at the DFWE NYC

The Thanksgiving table includes a myriad of dishes and flavours, starting with appetisers to graze on as guests arrive. The buffet lineup of traditional dishes typically includes roast turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, casseroles and cranberry relish. Plates are filled with these favourites, and in one bite, you might get turkey, stuffing, potatoes and gravy. So, how do you pair wines with this array of flavours?

Surprise the wine connoisseur in your life this Christmas with a Decanter Premium subscription

A good starting point is to remember that the Thanksgiving table may not be the time to pour powerful, robust wines. Nor is it the time to fret about wine pairings with particular dishes. The goal is to serve a lineup of light-bodied, versatile and easy-drinking wines that can work with the multitude of flavours on the table. And most importantly, select wines that are likely to please your guests’ varying palates. Thanksgiving is a time to break bread and enjoy a hearty, home-cooked meal with those closest to you. Your wine selections accentuate this holiday tradition, not the featured attraction.

Pairing principles

Below are simple wine and food pairing principles for the Thanksgiving table and throughout the year. A good starting point is understanding what’s happening in the glass and on the plate and how those things can create an experience greater than the sum of its parts. These guiding principles of wine and food pairings are evergreen and are meant to enhance a delicious meal with tasty wines and fine company.

Wine and food pairings are more fluid than definitive. Tradition says that specific foods call for particular wines. Things such as oysters and Chablis or steak and Cabernet Sauvignon. With Thanksgiving mains, many point to Pinot Noir as the ideal pairing for a simple roasted turkey. Those combinations are examples of successful pairings, but other options exist. Oysters and sparkling wine (particularly Champagne), steak and Syrah, and turkey and Chardonnay work just as well.

Think less of the food or protein and more specifically of the preparation. When it comes to the turkey, is it deep-fried or roasted? With sweet potatoes, are they baked in a sweet casserole or roasted with pancetta? The preparation method or sauce may drive what wine will work best.

Food made with acid-based sauces (such as tomatoes, vinegar or lemon) goes well with Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir. Rich sauces work best with high-acid wines to refresh or with rich, full-bodied wines to really step into the richness. If there’s any spice on the table, such as a spicy sausage stuffing, lower-alcohol wines with some residual sugar (like Riesling) will work well.

Matching food and wines with similar weights and richness is one key to pairing success. To do this, one must think of food and wine as both existing on a spectrum: Light-bodied wines with light dishes and full-bodied wines with rich or spice-driven dishes. So, with lighter vegetable dishes, such as green bean almondine or shaved Brussels sprouts salad, an acid-driven white blend might work best. An oaky red blend with spicy, toasty notes would pair well with a baking spice-dominant sweet potato casserole.

When thinking about wine pairings for Thanksgiving, consider whether you’d like to balance or accentuate the flavours on the table. For rich dishes such as buttered mashed potatoes, mac and cheese, or candied yams, you can balance the richness and fattiness with a high-acid, palate-cleansing white such as Riesling or Pinot Gris. In contrast, accentuate and step into the richness with a full-bodied, creamy Chardonnay.

A special occasion

Undeniably, Thanksgiving is, for many, one of the rare occasions when a family from near and far come together. So it may stand to reason that it’s the perfect occasion to break out that wine you’ve been saving for a rarer moment. It may be a self-serving opportunity to open something you’ve wanted to revisit from your cellar or a perfect occasion to share the magic of ageing wine with friends and family.

When it comes to sharing aged wines, its important that you prepare the wine properly, as well as those who are perhaps experiencing their first aged wine.

Opening an older wine can be a challenge in itself, given the variable conditions often found with older corks. Making sure to open the wine away from the table is a smart first step, as crumbling corks and decanting wines require space to execute properly.

There are a few different techniques for opening older, more fragile corks, and then a decision must be made on whether or not to decant your older wine.

In addition to managing the wine, it’s a good idea to manage the expectations of your guests, who may not have any experience tasting older wines. Helping them understand how wine breaks down over time and what to expect will heighten their enjoyment or at least help them anticipate how the experience of an aged wine will differ from what they know.

As the primary components of an aged Bordeaux or Pinot Noir turn from fruit to secondary and tertiary characteristics, those aged wines may not be the most appropriate to pair with the food, but rather the occasion, and they may show best as a before or after dinner toast.

Thanksgiving wine pairings: 10 American wines to try

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Across the 14,164 hectares under vine in the 11 American Viticultural Areas that make up the state of New York, there was one definitive trend in 2023: unpredictability.

Shannon Brock of Silver Thread Winery in the Finger Lakes called the growing season ‘a wild ride with a soft landing.’ She ‘biointensively’ farms a 4.05ha property nestled into the eastern hills of Seneca Lake with her husband (and winemaker), Paul.

She notes with irony that the wines from 2023 seeming ‘typical’ given the growing season was anything but.

‘I wish all wine drinkers thought more about the fact that artisanal wine is an agricultural product and a reflection of nature,’ says Brock. The gap between customer understanding and producer reality broadens as the idea of ‘typical’ continues to dissipate.

Scroll down for the 25 top-scoring New York wines of the 2023 vintage

Climate change and a new ‘normal’

2019 might be considered the closest vintage to typical in hindsight, producing fresh wines with strong acidity. 2020 has been described as a dream: its warm days, cool nights and drought-like conditions offer pristine fruit and some of the state’s most powerfully beautiful wines.

Record-breaking rains and humidity brought on 2021’s challenging farming conditions. Many hoped 2022 would bring some relief with more favourable weather and generally clean fruit. However, winter damage led to a smaller crop than normal and a larger impact on producer livelihoods.

By 2023, the stakes were high. Financial challenges from the previous vintages paired with an early bud-break (nearly two weeks in some locations) and beautifully warm spring days brought high expectations.

‘The weather was an outlier, but the fruit quality was not,’ notes Brock. The season offered tumultuous weather conditions, with one extreme weather event after another tumbling through state lines.

The result is white wines that are bright and refreshing, with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris producing standout glasses. Fruit-forward reds do best with a chill, and Bordeaux-style blends show promise for ageing. Across the board, higher acidity allows for easy pairing with foods.

Though unpredictability may be a hallmark of farming, it is also where the wine industry shines.

New York 2023: MJD’s top scoring wines of the vintage:

Living Roots Wine & Co., Shale Creek Chardonnay 2023, 93 points

Apollo’s Praise, Riesling 2023, 93 points

Nathan K, Cabernet Franc Primeur 2023, 93 points

Palmer Vineyards, Lake Harvest Gewürztrminer 2023, 92 points

Boundary Breaks Vineyard, Dry Rosé 2023, 92 points

Weis Vineyards, Zweigelt Dry Rosé 2023, 91 points

Challenge accepted

Across the lake on Seneca’s southwest side, Kelby James Russell, with his partner and co-conspirator Julia Hoyle, closed on their home vineyard, Lahoma, on 13 April 2023. Just over a month later, the overnight frost on 18 May ripped across the entire state, leaving behind crisp leaves and frozen vines.

Cold weather stayed put for up to six hours in some locations, resulting in 100% crop loss. For others, it caused minimal damage and caused a sigh of relief. Across the board, May’s weather was truly damaging to small farming businesses in rural New York.

‘Hell Kelb, I’m sorry,’ Russell remembers Harlan Fulkerson saying to him at 6am that morning after touring the damage. Russell had purchased the property from Fulkerson’s son, Ken, and both remain involved in farming the land. All three were unable to sleep that evening.

‘I had always been hyper-aware of the weather and potential threats,’ says Russell, who sourced fruit from Lahoma Vineyards for years as a winemaker prior to ownership. In the end, Apollo’s Praise suffered a 50% crop loss.

In short order, the unprecedented weather events continued. June heat led to wildfires in Quebec. Smoke plumes travelled more than 2,000 miles (3,220km), enveloping New York in an eerie cloud cover.

Click here for notes and scores of all the 2023 vintage New York wines tasted

Additionally, precipitation brought significant concern across the state, and in Lake Erie especially. ‘The rain mid-season did put significant disease pressure on a lot of blocks, which required more selection and grading in order to maintain quality,’ explained Mario Mazza of Mazza Chautauqua Cellars. The Mazza family has been farming grapes in the region since 1973.

Today, they farm over 240ha of grapes and grains in New York and Pennsylvania.

Though Lake Erie avoided the 2023 frost, the region ushered in the 2024 season with a freeze on April 25th. Crop sizes are likely to be small, but the full impact remains to be seen.

You get what you give

Meticulous farming was required statewide for high-quality fruit in 2023. Rains also brought concern to Hudson Valley and Long Island. In the Finger Lakes, disease pressure remained low despite nearly three times the average rainfall.

In response to the rain and smog, growers pulled leaves to increase circulation and sun exposure for the grapes. Seemingly overnight, sunburn caused by high UV rays emerged as a new concern, something rarely seen in New York.

Growing degree days played catch up in July and August, but sugar levels remained fairly moderate. Cool nights maintained acidity while grapes hung on vines as long as possible. Some locations were still harvesting fruit in November.

‘The extremes are what’s changing,’ explains Hudson Valley-based Matthew Spaccarelli of the volatile growing seasons in New York state. ‘It’s all normal in between. But when it rains, it really, really rains, and when it’s cold, it’s really, really cold.’

Spaccarelli runs Benmarl Winery and Fjord Vineyards and knows these extremes well. The cold cost him blocks of Albariño and Gamay.

New York 2023: Key producers of 2023

Apollo’s Praise

Fjord Vineyards

Living Roots Wine & Co.

Silver Thread Winery

Adapting to survive and thrive

Despite the loss, Spaccarelli says, ‘the growing season was actually pretty good. It’s definitely a year where we can’t complain about quality.’

He and his wife, Casey Erdmann, are gearing up for the next iteration of Fjord Vineyards on a new property with plans to plant more Albariño. He compares the variety to Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay in terms of hardiness.

‘Plant for the worst, hope for the best,’ he jokes.

At Apollo’s Praise, Russell and Hoyle will do the same, replacing a Riesling block in a cooler location with the cold-hardy German variety Scheurebe. Theirs is the first commercial planting of the grape in New York state.

The planting is a necessity. Having stretched their remaining crop across a small group of regional producers in need, they ran out of wine to finish their own projects. A kind neighbour in Boundary Breaks Vineyard provided the duo with Riesling to round out their Kabinett offering.

In reminiscing about this time, Russell remembers a sense of community at the forefront.

‘It is unbelievable that out of such a cold and dark moment, we have had so much excitement and love for our wines,’ he says, reflecting on the warm response to his initial launch, which is already sold out.

The obstacle is the way

‘I learn more in a challenging vintage,’ Plum Plummer confesses. He’s served as winemaker for Montezuma Winery since 2010 and sees tough growing seasons as an opportunity.

‘In years like 2023, where we’ve got all that bright acid, we can push the [ripeness] envelope without any fear of weighing things down.’

Vintages are spent chasing nuance, depth and complexity within the perfectly balanced wine. He sees Finger Lakes’ acidity as a gift and works to find equilibrium through fruit and texture.

Plummer powers through any risk aversion in the name of experimentation and education. ‘You get to take wild chances and learn things that you can take from vintage to vintage and integrate those lessons across the board.’

While it’s early to predict the 2024 vintage, Plummer, like his colleagues statewide, is cautiously optimistic. ‘I’m gonna knock on some wood right here.’

New York State 2023: value picks

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Grüner Veltliner 2023, 92 points

Keuka Spring Vineyards, Brusco 2023, 90 points

Osmote, Pocket Wine 2023, 89 points

New York State 2023: a selection of the top wines

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A lot of people often make the mistake of thinking the Peter Michael Winery is located in Napa. The last bastions of vineyards within the northern Napa Valley AVA are on the fringes of the town of Calistoga.

But 10 minutes north of the town’s bustling main drag of tasting rooms, restaurants, and gift shops, a green and white sign emerges along Highway 128, marking the Sonoma County line.

Another three miles north of the county line is the Peter Michael Winery – very much in Sonoma.

From Great Britain to Sonoma

Established in 1982 by Sir Peter Michael, an engineer by trade and a tech entrepreneur (knighted in 1989 by the late Queen Elizabeth), and his wife Margaret, who raises South Devon cattle and farms a 405-hectare estate in the southern English county of Berkshire.

Their California estate is a serene setting, comfortably settled and well-established, a far cry from when it was an old neglected cattle ranch.

Today, Sir Peter and Lady Michael’s son and daughter-in-law, Paul and Emily, carry forth the vision of Peter Michael Winery as a family-owned estate.

In my opening remarks for the master class at Manhattan in downtown New York City, I mused that Peter Michael Winery is often confused as an icon of Napa Valley. This isn’t surprising, given its proximity to Calistoga and the fact that the winery produces wines from vineyards in Napa’s Oakville appellation.

However, the 304-hectare ranch that encompasses Peter Michael Winery’s tasting room, offices, cellar, vineyards, and family retreat falls explicitly within the Knights Valley AVA, a sub-appellation of Sonoma County.

It is aptly referred to as the ‘Knights Valley Estate’, most of which is a wildlife preserve home to bobcats, bears, raptors, eagles, and falcons. The other two vineyard estates are Seaview Estate in West Sonoma County and Oakville Estate in Napa Valley.

As of March 2020, Robert Fiore began producing the wines. Fiore is a soft-spoken, genial man who harbours an obsession for rocks. He first trained as a geophysicist, and his global travels as an earth scientist inevitably led to a fascination with wine.

Equipped with a Master of Science degree in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis, Fiore’s bio includes stints at Continuum with Tim Mondavi, Arietta with Andy Erickson, Spring Mountain Vineyard, and experience in Burgundy as a Confrèrie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Fellowship Laureate.

Fire and brimstone

The seminar room at Manhatta, with its floor-to-ceiling views of the New York City skyline, filled up with new and familiar faces. For the next hour and a quarter, winemaker Robert Fiore and I engaged in an enthusiastic, dynamic journey.

First, Fiore helped frame a picture of the Knights Valley estate. ‘We’re on the western slopes of Mount Saint Helena’, he explained, ‘which is what remains from early volcanic explosions. The vineyards are underlain with rhyolite which is a volcanic rock high in silica content. We have both rhyolitic tuff which is lithified ash and rhyolitic lava flows which range from white to grey and brown in colour.’

Fiore continued: ‘These varying pockets of tuff and rhyolite on steep hillsides lead to variations in blocks, whereas some hillside vines produce structure and present tannins, and others deliver more flesh and silky tannins’.

It is clear, therefore, that for Fiore, in the winery, these differences comprise just some of the building blocks for Peter Michael’s remarkably structured and age-worthy wines.

After a bit of history and soil talk, we delved into the tasting with three vintages of the estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon white blend L’Après-Midi (The Afternoon), followed by five vintages of the flagship Bordeaux blend, Les Pavots (The Poppies).

The wines of Peter Michael’s Knights Valley Estate

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2010

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2016

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2021

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2006

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2009

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2012

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2016

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California 2021

The wines

2010 L’Après-Midi

86% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Sémillon, 100% barrel-fermented, aged sur lies 8 months, biweekly bâtonnage, 15.2% 

I asked Robert how far back he’d tasted the L’Après-Midi whites. ‘Back to the mid-1990s vintages’, he said, ‘and they hold up incredibly well.’ 2010 was one of the coolest years in a decade, beginning with a wet and cold winter, but heat came in the end, and ripening was sufficient.

Shatter impacted the Sauvignon Blanc crop this vintage, so there was more Sémillon in the 2010 blend than is typical. We compared the colour to the 2021 vintage. The 2010 was darker and straw-flecked with gold hues. Incredibly fresh, rich with fruit weight, and deep concentration on the mid-palate, it harboured notes of salted Meyer lemon peel, honey, oyster shell, and parmesan rind. What was most striking was its freshness.

2016 L’Après-Midi

88% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Sémillon, 100% barrel-fermented, aged sur lies 8 months, biweekly bâtonnage, 14.5% 

‘The growing season was warm and dry, a continuation of the previous drought year with low winter rains from 2015 into 2016,’ I offered, then asked Robert how the crop turned out. ‘At the time of flowering, we had beautiful, perfect conditions and great fruit set’, he said. ‘In this vintage, more thinning was done in the vineyard.’

There was quite a leap in freshness between 2010 and this 2016, which exhibited bright salinity and floral notes, with citrus, orchard, and stone fruits resonating around an incredibly focused and balanced medium-bodied white with vivid acidity. Fiore explained that: ‘Luc Morlet had decided to plant the Sémillon in the early 2000s as a blending component with the Sauvignon Blanc’.

2021 L’Après-Midi

93% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Sémillon, native yeast, 100% barrel-fermented, aged sur lies 8 months, biweekly bâtonnage, 15.1% 

‘Coming off the heat-stricken 2020 growing season, there were minimal winter rains, which resulted in a very low-yielding year for Sauvignon Blanc (and Cabernet Sauvignon, as we will discover later in the tasting’, I began. ‘The months of June and July brought a good amount of heat, but then things tempered, and the season was even-keeled.’

The smaller amount of Sémillon ‘was more typical’, Fiore said. This gorgeous wine captivated the attendees. Its pale colour belied the power and integrity of this super fragrant and floral-driven white, with all the same flavours and round, rich textures as the 2010 and 2016, only young, subtle, compact – apricot cream instead of dried apricots and honeysuckle instead of honeycomb.

2006 Les Pavots

77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.5%

As we transitioned to the Les Pavots reds, I reminded everyone that our focus was strictly on the Knights Valley Estate in Sonoma – the source of all the grapes harvested for Les Pavots. For those who have collected Peter Michael wines, I asked Fiore to briefly remind us of the difference between Les Pavots and the winery’s other Bordeaux-style reds.

‘Au Paradis is a powerhouse red from our Oakville Estate in Napa Valley, and L’Esprit des Pavots is a blend from the Knights Valley estate and our Oakville estate, so a true California blend, made for early enjoyment’. L’Esprit des Pavots is French for ‘The Spirit of the Poppies’, a flower which grows among the vines.

2006 was a wet year, with hail and snow during the springtime. Frost damage impacted some hillside blocks. The coolness delayed flowering and a moderate growing season led to a later harvest in October. Absolutely riveting, this wine was full-bodied, complex, layered, and so inviting with its rich black truffle and earth notes interlaced with currant fruit and beautifully refined, almost powdery tannins perfectly integrated. A dusty, mineral quality nearly had some in the room fooled that we’d poured a Left Bank Bordeaux red.

2009 Les Pavots

66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 17 months in 100% French Oak, 15%

A slow and steady growing season with just a couple of heat spikes. The berries were in prime condition, harvested between 6 and 14 October. Both the 2009 and the 2006 are just instant classics by California standards. There’s a cooling quality to this full-bodied wine, a coolness in the fruit and wild herb aromatics, with ripe, present and integrated tannins that are soft and mellow, supporting still-ripe red and black fruits in the 2009. Tobacco and earth fill out the finish.

I wondered if the wines were unfined and unfiltered, and Robert explained that indeed they are, which, he said, ‘helps with long-term ageing to maintain structure and freshness.’

2012 Les Pavots

64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.8%

We nosed the 2012, and I explained that ‘this was an extraordinary year, following the cold and rainy 2011 vintage. The great 2013 vintage often overshadows this vintage, but both years are accessible now, especially this 2012, having shed its youthfully intense tannins, and it has a long way to go, plenty of structure, weight, and prettiness in its cigar box, currant fruits, full-bodied appeal and tremendous length underscored by good acidity.

2016 Les Pavots

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.6% 

I urged the attendees to compare 2012 to 2016 because ‘the blends are remarkably close, and the growing seasons have a lot in common – good winter and spring rain followed by moderate weather and later harvests.

‘The presence of oak is still quite powerful in the 2016, whereas it has softened with 2012’, I noticed, and added: ‘A watershed in the life of the wine, wherein you can see the trajectory of oak and its eventual integration after a decade of bottle ageing.’

I then asked Robert if there had been any major shifts in the barrel ageing regimen over the years. ‘No, it’s been consistent since the beginning,’ he replied, ‘which is a huge win for collectors. They get to experience vintage variation through the same lens of winemaking’. The 2016 showed ample dark fruit and spices, wild herbs, pixelated tannins and an excellent baseline of acidity.

2021 Les Pavots

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 15.8%

As discussed with the 2021 L’Après-Midi, the 2021 vintage ushered in extremely low yields, with vines producing very few clusters and very concentrated berries. ‘It’s similar in my mind to 2001, which is a year that produced very dark, very tannic wines with considerable structure,’ said Fiore.

The 2021 was just dynamite, showing its youthful exuberance in dark purple-black colour, heady primary, blue and black fruit aromatics, violet pastille, and sweet cedar.

Full-bodied and compact, with fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity. I pressed the room to observe the opulence of the wine and then to revisit the 2006 vintage as a bookend to our journey with Peter Michael and a sneak peek into the future of these drop-dead gorgeous wines – a promising future for anyone fortunate enough to have bottles in their cellar.

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Soon after 9am – an hour before doors opened – queues started forming for the Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass, the first in a stellar programme of guided tastings at Decanter’s third Fine Wine Encounter in New York.

With three vintages each of first-growth Château Haut-Brion, its exquisite neighbour Château La Mission Haut-Brion and the Right Bank property Château Quintus, this sold-out masterclass proved that guests had no qualms about enjoying Bordeaux for breakfast.

Guillaume-Alexandre Marx, commercial director for the Domaine Clarence Dillon portfolio, led attendees through the 10 wines – including the 2021 vintage of white La Clarté de Haut-Brion.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the 10 wines tasted at the Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass

Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass: three stellar estates

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France 1995

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France 2005

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, Bordeaux, France 2010

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2003

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2006

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2009

Château Quintus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2016

Château Quintus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2018

Château Quintus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2020

Château Haut-Brion, La Clarté de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2021

Château La Mission Haut-Brion

1995

An early year, but a hot one (a common theme among the wines of this masterclass). This seduced in its aromatic display, holding court with both savoury notes of autumn leaves and the tartness of wild blackberries.

2005

Recognised as being a very fine vintage despite being very dry, with similar conditions to the legendary 1949 vintage, producing consistently excellent wines across all appellations in Bordeaux. This La Mission is no exception, and provided guests with an incredible sensory experience.

2010

The driest vintage since 1949, leading to high concentration and sugar levels. Cool nights helped to retain freshness. This wine was explosive, luxurious and sumptuous; powerful but still an absolute pleasure to drink now.

Château Haut-Brion

2003

Famously the hottest summer on record in France, with a heatwave that swept across the country. ‘In Bordeaux, we normally have an average of 16 days above 30°C,’ said Marx, ‘but in 2003 there were 49 days above 30°C.’ As a result, it was the earliest the estate had ever harvested.

Unusually, reds and whites were harvested by night, and for the first time refrigerated trucks were used to keep the grapes cool once picked. Now they’re used frequently. Because of the extreme conditions, the wine is even more impressive for its balance. It’s not heavy or cooked, and the tannins are silky and delicious.

2006

A varied winter and spring, but a hot and dry summer. Despite not being massively high-rated by critics, the wine is complete and now showing well. It came in the shadow of the highly lauded 2005.

2009

Another dry year, after sufficient rain in spring, producing one of the most arresting wines of the masterclass. The fruit quality felt impeccably pure and was underpinned by caperberry salinity and marvellous poise.

Château Quintus

2016

A consistent vintage that ticked all the boxes a winemaker could hope for. Purchased by Domaine Clarence Dillon in 2011, Quintus sees less new oak than its Left Bank cousins Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, at only 35%. ‘We try to be really soft on the extraction and new oak on Quintus, in order to preserve the freshness and elegance,’ said Marx.

2018

Stormy weather in spring slowed down the vines’ growth, but the summer was hot and there were not many problems from then on. This wine charmed right away, with its expressive, youthful, fleshy fruit.

2020

The vines’ growth cycle started early, the earliest since 1989, and this was followed by mildew risk because of spring rain. The summer was then exceptionally hot and dry, and has led to a highly concentrated wine, with lots of richness and opulence.

When and how to drink Domaine Clarence Dillon wines

While most people think Bordeaux comes into its own with long bottle age, Marx made the case for considering the situation and surroundings rather than the vintage. ‘You can drink a young vintage of La Mission, but you have to pair it with the right food,’ he advised.

‘If you’re drinking a young vintage, you don’t have to go for sophisticated food,’ he noted, suggesting that a top cut of meat on the barbecue served with mashed potato would provide just the right pairing.

On the other hand, the delicacy and subtlety of older vintages, such as the 1995 La Mission, would require more complex, refined dishes – ‘something lighter with a delicate mushroom sauce’, suggested Marx.

DFWE NYC 2024: the Domaine Clarence Dillon masterclass wines:

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As the sun glimmered on the Hudson River, glinting off skyscrapers and filling the 60th floor of the Manhatta building with light, masterclass guests hung on legendary Rhône winemaker Michel Chapoutier’s every word.

Head of his family’s M Chapoutier winery, he launched into an impassioned, swooping discussion, weaving soil analysis, ampelography, the golden ratio, epigenetics (the ability of the plant to adapt its own genetics), the emotional intelligence of plants, rootstocks, vintage conditions, food pairings and his winemaking philosophy into an engaging, compelling and evocative performance.

Only the Jimi Hendrix of wine could capture an audience in such a way.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the eight wines tasted at Decanter’s M Chapoutier masterclass

Unlocking the secrets of terroir

If there is any winemaker qualified to talk about terroir, it is Michel Chapoutier. With his Sélections Parcellaires wines, he aims to showcase the unique song that different soils and vineyard sites can sing when given the chance.

To wine lovers today, this may seem an obvious conviction for a winemaker to have. After all, it is often a central part of their narrative. But, said Chapoutier during the masterclass, 40 years ago this wasn’t the case; generally soil wasn’t considered that important in the notion of terroir.

So he set out, not to try and make the best wines, but to try and take the best snapshot possible of an individual terroir. ‘Quite comfortable for a lazy winemaker like me,’ he told guests.

While there are 17 Sélections Parcellaires wines in the M Chapoutier universe – across the appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, Cornas, Condrieu and Châteauneuf-du-Pape – it was the Hermitage iterations that attendees at DFWE NYC 2024 were treated to on Saturday 8 June. Each was an individual expression, a soaring aria, of a tiny vineyard parcel.

The intricate patchwork of Hermitage hill

Through two whites and two reds, each across two vintages, Chapoutier explained to guests the unique characters each single-vineyard plot can express.

M Chapoutier, De L’Orée, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2018

M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2018

M Chapoutier, De L’Orée, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2014

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite Rouge, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2014

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite Rouge, Hermitage, Rhône, Franc 2011

Biodynamics

Having converted all of his vineyards to biodynamic farming in the early 1990s, Chapoutier has often been called a maverick. During the masterclass, he compared chemical farming to having a headache and taking an aspirin. It takes care of the symptoms but not the underlying problem.

Organic farming does the same, but instead of using the chemical molecule, it uses the natural molecule. Biodynamics, on the other hand, questions why you have the headache in the first place,; what the origin is.

One of the first things he noticed as an obvious result of converting to biodynamics was an increase in the wines’ natural level of acidity.

As well as explaining why biodynamics has such an important impact on his wines, Chapoutier stressed how the use of ambient yeasts for fermentation is also crucial to expressing the uniqueness of his terroir.

‘Wine is an aromatic symphony,’ he said. ‘With selected yeast, it’s like playing Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony with only the violin. But if you use wild yeast, you have a full symphony orchestra.’

According to Chapoutier, as well as soil, climate and human influence, vintage plays an important role when talking about terroir. What made this masterclass particularly fascinating was the ability to taste wines from differnt vineyard sites but from the same vintage side by side, as well as from an older vintage.

Food pairing potential

A winemaker who loves to cook, Chapoutier gave tantalising food-pairing suggestions for each of his wines.

The noble bitterness inherent in the Marsanne grape (the sole player in both the De L’Orée and Le Méal whites), lends itself particularly well to pairing – ‘a bridge for the marriage between wine and food’, he said.

Chapoutier suggested pairing De L’Orée 2018 with lamb curry, for example, or to take the pairing to another level with the traditional Chinese dish of century eggs. Le Pavillon 2014 he proposed lièvre à la royale (a French dish of hare slow cooked in red wine, heart, liver, lungs and blood), or roasted woodcock.

DFWE NYC 2024: the M Chapoutier masterclass wines

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On 8 June, Manhatta in New York City was transformed into a wine lover’s paradise for the third edition of the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) NYC.

This exclusive one-day event, renowned for bringing together wine enthusiasts, connoisseurs and some of the finest wine producers from around the globe, offered the 500 attendees an unforgettable experience filled with an exquisite Grand Tasting, enlightening masterclasses and the chance to meet legendary winemakers.

Scroll down to see photo highlights from DFWE NYC 2024.

Thanks to photographers Mark Reinertson and Studio Smith Studio and video team Future Studios.

Thanks also to our sponsors: Riedel, Hamilton Russell Oregon and Domaine Anderson

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Seven hours, 60 floors up, more than 50 premium producers and four exceptional masterclasses – consumers and wineries were unanimous in heralding the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York City (DFWE NYC) as Manhattan’s greatest world wine event.

In its third year, DFWE NYC 2024 welcomed more than 500 wine lovers from across the Empire State and as far away as California, Washington and North Carolina.

Held at the glitzy and spacious Manhatta, which offers unparalleled views over the city, this NYC iteration of Decanter’s renowned global events series brought together 28 Gold, Platinum and Best in Show medal-winners from the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) as well as 180 premium wines from more than 50 world-class producers.

DWWA 2024 results out now!

Click here to see all the winners from the world’s biggest wine competition

Each producer at the Grand Tasting brought one special wine, either an old vintage or a large-format bottle – and often both – to share with guests.

Among the highlights were: magnums of Damilano’s 1752 Cannubi Barolo 2013, Joseph Phelps’ 2006 Insignia, Château Lagrange 2003 and Château Haut Bages Libéral 2008; double magnums of T-Oinos’ 2022 Clos Stegasta Assyrtiko and Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port; and a jeroboam of E Guigal’s 2016 Château de Nalys.

Other special bottles included Château Léoville Las Cases 2003, Speri’s 2003 Sant’Urbano Amarone Classico, Catena Zapata’s 2004 Nicolás Catena Zapata, Remírez de Ganuza’s 2005 Rioja Gran Reserva and Tenuta Sette Ponti’s 2005 Oreno.

And that was just the Grand Tasting. Those who snapped up tickets to one of the four masterclasses throughout the day had the rare chance to enjoy expert guided tastings of 34 cuvées from the likes of Châteaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion back to 1995, and Napa’s Peter Michael Winery back to 2006.

Apart from the wines, of course, the biggest drawcard to the DFWEs is the chance for attendees to speak with the winemakers and winery owners themselves.

Rhône superstar Michel Chapoutier of M Chapoutier and Count Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga of Marqués de Murrieta in Rioja stole the show in their masterclasses, wine lovers queuing for autographs and selfies after each session.

Read all about it: Full masterclass reports from DFWE NYC 2024

M ChapoutierMarqués de MurrietaHaut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion & QuintusPeter Michael Winery

In the Grand Tasting, of the 13 tables spanning the length and breadth of Italy, we welcomed winemakers and owners from six estates, including Allegrini, Baricci, Barone Pizzini, Masciarelli, Tenuta Sette Ponti and Zenato.

Key figures from several US wineries were in attendance too, including Ross Cobb (Cobb Wines), Rebekah Wineburg (Quintessa), Chris Peterson (Avennia), Joanna Wells (Signal Ridge) and Olive Hamilton Russell (Hamilton Russell Oregon).

Winemakers and owners from Remírez de Ganuza, Marqués de Riscal, Montes, Santa Rita and Catena Zapata also generously took time out of their busy schedules to fly over for the event, pour wines and chat at length with guests.

Indeed, producers remarked at the high level of knowledge and genuine interest in wine among the DFWE NYC 2024 guests compared to those at other events – making it an enjoyable experience for all.

If you attended, keep an eye out for our photo gallery, as you may be featured. Or, if you have a favourite moment you want to share with us, you could be in with a chance to win a pair of Grand Tasting tickets to next year’s DFWE NYC.

Upload your images to X (Twitter) and Instagram by 1 July, and make sure you tag @Decanter and use the hashtag #DecanterFWE.

In the meantime, if you can’t wait for June 2025, why not join us at our inaugural DFWE Singapore on 26 October or the original DFWE London on 16 November?

The DFWE NYC 2024 was kindly sponsored by Riedel. Event photography was done by Mark Reinertson Photography and Studio Smith.

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The third annual Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) returns to New York City this Saturday, 8 June, promising an exquisite line-up of wines and an array of wine influencers who are ready to share their enthusiasm for the event. Here’s a sneak peek into which wines our influencers are most excited to taste.

Quintessa, Napa Valley, Rutherford, California, USA 2013

Heather Muriello is eagerly anticipating the 2013 Quintessa from Napa Valley’s Rutherford appellation: ‘2013 in California was a good year in wine. I also just love this producer, and I have no doubt that the 2013 Quintessa will be a stellar representation of the winery’s dedication to biodynamic farming and masterful winemaking. This wine will stand up to 1st growth Bordeaux and will be an elegant standout as one can expect from this producer.’

Château La Dominique, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2011

Muriello has her sights set on the 2011 Château La Dominique from Bordeaux. ‘When it comes to the wines from the special wine list at DFWE, I’m going straight to the right-bank to enjoy all the merlot silkiness! While I haven’t had this producer, it’s high on my list. This esteemed Bordeaux estate is known for its meticulous vineyard management and skilled winemaking. I can only imagine this 2011 vintage, dominated by Merlot, will be exceptional and what a special experience to get to taste!’

Remírez de Ganuza, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 2005

‘I love a good Rioja, especially on summer nights,’ says Muriello: ‘I can’t wait to try the 2005 Remírez de Ganuza Gran Reserva! I’ve heard so much about this winery and its innovative techniques and dedication to quality, selecting only the best Tempranillo and Graciano grapes for their Gran Reserva. Just thinking about this wine, I’m already getting a velvety texture with dark berries and spice. The anticipation of tasting such a refined and elegant wine from a producer of this calibre is truly thrilling.’

About WINEFARER

Heather Muriello @winefarer is a wine specialist, content creator, and social media strategist. Through her wine and lifestyle blog, as well as her social media platforms, she shares her passion for wine with a mission to demystify the wine world. Heather provides approachable tasting notes, engaging content, and relatable experiences, inspiring her audience to explore diverse wine styles and enjoy their wine journey without intimidation.

Signal Ridge Vineyard, Estate Chardonnay, Mendocino County, Mendocino Ridge, California, USA 2021

Nicole Muscari is particularly excited about the 2021 Signal Ridge Vineyard Estate Chardonnay from Mendocino Ridge, California. ‘Perched at an elevation of 2,742 feet, the Mendocino Ridge AVA is producing some of California’s most captivating Chardonnay, Muscari said. ‘The blend of six different clonal varieties, combining both Dijon and California Heritage clones, contributes to a diverse range of aromas and flavours.’ She continued, ‘The organic dry-farming practices on these steep slopes, enriched with ancient marine soils, result in resilient vines that produce wines of remarkable depth and concentration. Having tasted this wine before, I eagerly anticipate revisiting it to reconfirm my initial impression—it could easily pass for a Burgundy in a blind tasting.’

Château Haut-Bages Libéral, Pauillac 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 2008 (Magnum)

Another wine on Muscari’s list is the 2008 Château Haut-Bages Libéral from Pauillac, Bordeaux, which will be presented as a magnum on the day. ‘One of Pauillac’s most distinguished wines, Château Haut-Bages Libéral consistently tells the tale of its left-bank gravelly terroir and its esteemed history as a classified 5th growth in the renowned 1855 classification. Magnum bottles of this wine are known to elevate any occasion, and the 2008 vintage promises to be exceptional.’

Attendees can look forward to a remarkable showcase of rich dark fruits, graphite, and earthy notes, all wrapped in silky, fine-grain tannins.

Disznókő, Kapi Vineyard, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary 2015

Muscari is also eager to taste the 2015 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos from Hungary. ‘One of the world’s great sweet wines, this 6 Puttonyos Tokaji is undoubtedly a labour of love! The process involves hand-picking botrytis-infected grapes through multiple vineyard passes and macerating them in fermenting must to extract intense sugars and flavours. This wine was then aged in 225-liter barrels (25% new) for added texture and complexity. With 180g/l of residual sugar, I expect it to be lusciously sweet yet perfectly balanced by the Furmint grape’s natural high acidity, featuring classic botrytized notes of orange peel, ginger, dried apricots, and honey,’ Muscari said.

About Grape Chic

French Wine Scholar Nicole Muscari launched her blog and social media platform, @Grapechic, to make wine more accessible and enjoyable. Currently pursuing the WSET Diploma, Muscari shares captivating wine stories and has contributed to publications like The Vintner Project and Honest Cooking Magazine.

Join us at the DFWE NYC at Manhatta, to explore these incredible wines and many more. Our influencers will be there, sharing their experiences and guiding you through a world of exceptional wine.

Browse the Special Wines 

Download the Grand Tasting catalogue here to study the line-up of producers and the wines they will be bringing.

Watch: What to expect at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2024

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday June 8 2024 from 11am to 5pm.

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor,

New York, NY 10005 

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

A Grand Tasting ticket also includes access to the Decanter World Wine Awards winners’ bar, where you can taste Gold, Platinum and Best in Show wines from 2023.

 Last remaining tickets

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Driving down Route 14 in Dundee, New York, a clear day reveals rolling hills of grape vines along either side of Seneca Lake. Seneca is the largest and deepest of the 11 glacially carved Finger Lakes in upstate New York. The lush terrain and diverse microclimates across its 61 kilometres are home to over 60 producers, including Nathan Kendall.

His name is becoming increasingly familiar to those watching New York’s growing wine scene. Kendall has topped various wine industry recognition lists over the last few years as a rapidly rising star in both New York and American wine. He calls the attention ‘truly humbling for a small-town person.’

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 10 wines from Nathan Kendall

‘Anything I read about the region, whether it be myself or anyone else, is a victory for the whole team,’ says Kendall. He is a rising tide lifting all ships in a place that means a lot to him. Kendall grew up locally, in a town with a population of just 1,700.

The experience seems to have grounded Kendall further in his efforts as a Finger Lakes winemaker and steward of the land. He is steadfast in his minimalist approach, embracing vintage variation and the authenticity of place.

Growing up in New York

Kendall’s love for New York is intrinsic. ‘My parents were drinking local back before it was trendy,’ he smiles.

Grape cultivation and winemaking is an older business here than people might think. Indigenous peoples are thought to have cultivated and harvested grapes after they arrived at the end of the last Ice Age. The first commercial Vitis labrusca plantings date back to 1829, with varieties that have since been given names connected with those same peoples, such as the Cayuga, Catawba, and Delaware.

The Vitis vinifera revolution didn’t hit this region until the 1960s led by Charles Fournier and Dr. Konstantin Frank.

With his mother working at Hermann J Wiemer and his best friend’s family farming grapes, Kendall grew up surrounded by viticulture. He quickly became intrigued by the concept of turning fruit into a delicious drink. By 18, he was working in tasting rooms and reading wine books voraciously.

Kendall pursued a business degree with wine in mind before deciding hands-on vineyard management and winemaking experience could be beneficial. Concurrently, his parents opened Hickory Hollow Wine Cellars on the southwest side of Seneca Lake.

‘I felt I had something I had to prove on my own,’ said Kendall, who chased harvests after school.

For five years, he travelled the world, starting in Sonoma before working in Willamette Valley; Waipara in New Zealand; the Mosel in Germany; and Adelaide Hills, Australia.

‘I expedited the learning process and completely avoided winter,’ says Nathan, laughing at the memory.

Coming into focus

Alongside sunnier days, Kendall’s time abroad allowed him to find his style: low to no intervention and letting the vintage and grape variety shine. He returned home in 2011, working for local wineries while honing his craft on the side.

‘I started making teeny batches of wine in the corner for fun and to work with the techniques I learned [abroad],’ Kendall explains. ‘I grew that every year until I just couldn’t balance the two, and my side hustle became more of a day job.’

This was the start of his namesake brand, Nathan K. In 2016, he took over winemaking for Hickory Hollow while also starting a natural wine project he called ‘chëpìka’ – which means ‘root’ in Lenape, the Algonquian language spoken by the Delaware tribe – with New York City-based sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier.

Today, Kendall operates all three brands, each with a separate focus. Nathan K. centres around Finger Lakes vinifera, while Hickory Hollow explores French-American hybrid grapes. For chëpìka he explores wines made from Vitis labrusca hybrids. ‘It’s been a fun little history project and a lesson in horticulture,’ he says.

Honouring home

Kendall’s style allows him to highlight the best of the Finger Lakes. In the vineyard, grapes are carefully selected by hand, allowing Kendall to avoid sorting on the press pad. His vinification methods are minimal, partly by necessity and partly by design. ‘I’m not working with any refrigeration, and my press is old enough to be my grandfather,’ he jokes.

In the cellar, he lets the cool-climate region shine. ‘I lean into the beauty we have here: higher acid, lower alcohol, more delicate wines in general.’ Kendall focuses on complexity through mouthfeel.

‘I like a little more texture in white wines, which I get through barrel ferments and lees ageing,’ he details. The reds are a fresher style, a little more fruit-forward. I like the whole cluster adds – they really make the fruit pop.’

Though Kendall has enough land for a future estate vineyard, he believes his purpose right now is to allow it to flourish naturally. Instead, he partners with three to four local grape growers annually to get the fruit he needs.

He tends to prefer working with neutral grapes like Chardonnay. ‘They’re a little more transparent in regards to understanding what you’re working with in the vineyard site,’ he explains. As such, Kendall determines the best possible use for the fruit he sources each year.

Championing hybrids

Making fine wines with hybrid grapes for chëpìka is more than just winemaking to Kendall – it’s a catalyst for necessary conversations. ‘I thought it was important to see if those varieties are still relevant,’ he says of the organic Catawba, Delaware, and Concord he sources for the brand.

These were among the most planted varieties during the early development of the Finger Lakes region, and with a less predictable climate, he finds them more relevant than ever.

Kendall suggests consumers should open their minds to new varieties to expand the industry. ‘It’s about being able to work with grapes in your backyard because not everyone can afford to live near the lake where the more tender vinifera thrives,’ he notes. ‘As long as you’re not biased about the specific species of grape, you can make something real nice.’

The brand chëpìka has also become a way to honour the region’s original inhabitants. ‘There are so many stories that aren’t told or preserved,’ Kendall says, disheartened by the forgotten history of New York’s indigenous communities. ‘It’s eye-opening and we figured we just have to have that uncomfortable conversation a lot of people want to ignore.’

Kendall and Lepeltier help keep these stories alive by donating proceeds to OJI:SDA Sustainable Indigenous Futures (a local non-profit organisation founded by indigenous people).

The wines also support the Literacy Volunteers of Yates County, which assists vineyard farmers with English language skills. ‘We thought it was important to take the proceeds from every bottle sold and put them towards something more noble,’ he says.

When asked what’s next, Kendall just smiles. ‘I just wake up grateful. I’m happy I’m here, and I try to do a little bit better than I did yesterday: get a little bit better extraction, a little more nuance, a little more precision on the sparkling. I just try to be a better version of the last time.’

10 wines from Finger Lakes maestro Nathan Kendall

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The stage is almost set for an extraordinary day at the highly anticipated Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) NYC, where attendees can look forward to a day tasting exceptional fine wines at the Grand Tasting and engage in incredible masterclasses.

Adding to the excitement, guests are invited to take a pause and treat themselves to a delicious buffet prepared by the talented chefs at Manhatta. To complement this exceptional lunch, our sponsors Domaine Anderson and Hamilton Russell will be generously providing complimentary wine.

Set Buffet Menu

$85 (+ sales tax) per person

Roasted Chicken Breast with Tarragon Mustard Jus

Roasted Beef Tenderloin, Arugula Pesto

Falafel, Spinach Tahini, Spiced Labneh (v)

*

Petite Greens, Shaved Garden Vegetables with Chianti Vinaigrette

*

Broccoli, Lemon and Chilli with Caramelised Balsamic Onions (v)

Quinoa Farro Salad – Pickled Carrots, Radishes, Mustard Vinaigrette (v)

Gruyere and Potato au Gratin (v)

Wild Rice Pilaf

*

Pistachio Apricot Tart

Dark Chocolate Budino

Raspberry Vanilla Cheesecake (gf)

The wines

Zena Crown Pinot Noir 2019 

A deep ruby colour with aromas of dark cherries, blackberries, and subtle baking spices. A silky texture on the palate with vibrant acidity, showcasing flavours of ripe red berries, cloves, and earthy undertones. The finish is long and elegant, defined by fine-grained tannins and spiced fruits.

Domaine Anderson Chardonnay 2021

A golden straw colour, offering aromas of ripe pear and Golden Delicious apple, accompanied by notes of toasted bread crust, lemon zest, and honey. The palate is velvety and rich, showcasing flavours of marzipan and ripe citrus. Its finish is long, with savoury umami notes and vibrant acidity.

Seating is limited and available exclusively for ticket holders to the event. Tables of two, three, four, five and six are available to book. For groups of more than six, please contact events@decanter.com and we will try to accommodate you and your party. Bar seating for one is also available.

Due to high demand, we recommend booking your lunch reservation early to avoid disappointment. If you are still yet to purchase a ticket to DFWE NYC, please book this first and then you will gain access to the lunch reservation page.

We look forward to welcoming you to this incredible day of fine wines and gourmet cuisines.

Terms and Conditions

Please note you must have already purchased tickets for Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2024 in order to book a lunch reservation.

All lunch reservations are non-refundable and non-exchangeable, unless the event is cancelled.

Price is $85 (+ sales tax) per person and tables of 2, 3, 4 and 6 are available to purchase. Bar seating for 1 is also available to purchase.

Please note: your table is only available for 50 minutes.

ALL guests in your party must be Decanter Fine Wine Encounter attendees. Book Encounter tickets here.

In order to gain access to the lunch reservation, you must have a valid booking confirmation email.

Please ensure you arrive promptly at your starting time.

Lunch reservations will only be held for 20 minutes, after that tickets are subject to resale and will be automatically cancelled without refund.

Please be mindful that we are operating a set buffet lunch and therefore are not able to accommodate all dietary requirements.

Walk-in ticket holders will be accepted subject to availability, and will be charged $95 per person.

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However, not all Manhattan-based wine stores are created equal, and seeking one that best suits your needs is a great place to start. Whether looking for well-aged greats from France and Italy or a unique selection of low-intervention or natural wines, Manhattan certainly has a well-stocked store for you; it’s simply a matter of knowing where to look.

We’ve done the hard work for you and rounded up a curated list of Manhattan’s best wine shops, and a couple from Brooklyn. Our picks cover a diverse array of selections and are situated across a variety of NYC neighbourhoods. In short? If you’re in Manhattan, access to great wine is likely just a few blocks away.

Manhattan

Millesima USA (Upper East Side)

Now located at its brand new address of 1257 Second Avenue at E. 66th Street, this long-standing New York icon debuts a new chapter of its historic story. Founded in 1983 in Bordeaux, the family-owned company opened its New York retail location back in 2006 and is best known for its luxurious design and fine wine / collectable offerings, though it doesn’t stop there. In addition to sought-after Bordeaux (the shop’s undeniable speciality), Millesima also offers a large array of mid-range drinkers from Burgundy and Champagne, as well as smaller lineups from America, the southern hemisphere, and the Iberian peninsula.

Astor Wines & Spirits (Greenwich Village)

For one of New York’s largest wine and spirits selections – as well as some of its lowest, unbeatable prices – look no further than Astor Wines & Spirits. Located at 399 Lafayette Street, this long-standing, warehouse-esque store is situated in a landmark 19th-century building and offers a massive variety of wines and spirits from around the world. Whether seeking out something quirky (a Sagrantino, Vermentino and Dolcetto pét-nat from Australia, anyone?) or gems for the cellar, Astor Wines & Spirits (hello, 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Raveneau) truly has something for every wine drinker in the city. You likely won’t find the bottle you’re looking for at a better price. As of 2022, Astor Wines & Spirits officially became an employee-owned company and today stocks an impressive 5,000+ SKUs.

Crush Wine & Spirits (Midtown East)

Situated in Manhattan’s Midtown East neighbourhood, Crush Wine & Spirits was founded by native New Yorkers Drew Nieporent, Josh Guberman, and Robert Schagrin back in 2005. The shop focuses on its ‘pillar’ regions: Champagne, Burgundy, Piedmont, Beaujolais, Germany, Loire and Northern Rhône, though also offers a variety of selections from South America, Austria and beyond. Crush also has a Fine & Rare department providing corporate gifting services and one-on-one cellar building consulting. In addition, it regularly offers early access to special offers and discounts via email (be sure to sign up to the mailing list!). Current feature highlights include Pascal Cotat Sancerre, a White Burgundy selection dating back to 2008, and ‘Jura Rarities’ from Montbourgeau, Domaine du Pélican and Fumey-Chatelain.

Parcelle (Midtown West)

Every so often, a new wine shop comes to Manhattan’s scene and gives its historic counterparts a run for their money. Such is the case for Parcelle, which first opened its doors back in 2018. Spearheaded by sommelier Grant Reynolds, Parcelle marks the first retail concept for the city’s beloved Delicious Hospitality Group, which is best known as the brains behind Charlie Bird, Pasquale Jones and Legacy Records. The shop offers a variety of daily drinkers and mid-range offerings, as well as a Fine & Rare section that promises to wow collectors of all stripes (think large-format Champagne, back-vintage Mascarello and more). Parcelle offers a daily deal, which is easily found at the top of its website and, as of summer 2022, also has a partner wine bar at 135 Division Street that offers similar by-the-glass pours and regular on-site events.

Somm Cellars (Upper West Side)

Like Parcelle, Somm Cellars is also a welcome new addition to Manhattan’s wine shop scene. Owned by friends (and industry vets) Jason Jacobeit and Daniel Jung, formerly of Bâtard and Tribeca Grill, respectively, Somm Cellars seeks to bring a curated array of wines and spirits to New York’s Upper West Side with an emphasis on high-level hospitality and inclusivity. The shop is situated on the ground floor of One Waterline Square, which doubles as the perfect backdrop for hosting a variety of events. The team sends out daily email offers featuring discounted back-vintage bottles (recent offers include 1983 Château Talbot, St-Julien and Robert Chevillon wines dating back to 1997) and also sells an array of accessories, including Zalto and Riedel glassware along with Coravin preservation devices.

Chambers Street Wines (Tribeca)

Deemed one of the OG natural wine stores in New York, Chambers Street Wines’ massive influence on the industry still reverberates today. Founded in 2001 by David Lillie and Jamie Wolff, this artisanal wine-focused staple recently moved from its original location at 149 Chambers Street down to 79 Chambers Street, yet its focus remains the same. Chambers has long pioneered small-batch wines from growers committed to sustainability, with an emphasis on the Loire Valley, Burgundy, Piedmont and Austria. In the words of the shop: ‘Every wine we stock is tasted, re-tasted, debated,’ and the commitment to authenticity, coupled with the shop’s knowledgeable staff, is undeniably what’s made it a Manhattan wine staple for over 20 years.

Flatiron Wines & Spirits (Flatiron)

Flatiron Wine & Spirits has been an institution in the Flatiron / Union Square / NoMad area since its opening in 2012. Last year, the shop relocated from its original 21st / 22nd Street location to a roomier space on 18th and Broadway, allowing for on-site events, classes – and, of course, more carefully sourced wines. In addition to a robust Burgundy section, what Flatiron does best is its daily drinker selection, with a plentiful amount of bottles clocking in between the $15 and $25 dollar price points. Whether classically styled bottles or more eccentric natural wines are what you’re after, this well-curated shop’s got something for every price point.

Wine Therapy (Nolita)

Natural wine lovers in the know are no strangers to the powerful impact that Wine Therapy has had on the city’s burgeoning, low-intervention wine scene. Founded in 2005 by Jean-Baptiste Humbert, Wine Therapy began pioneering eclectic, off-the-beaten-path grape varieties, regions and producers far before doing so was fashionable, and today continues to stock its shelves with the same ethos as day one. Expect classic natural wine pillars such as Les Capriades, Agnès et René Mosse, and Fabien Jouves to grace the shelves, as well as more eccentric picks from Greece, Slovenia and beyond. (The shop also boasts an impressive lineup of rosé, orange wines and pét-nats.) Wine Therapy also offers curated cases and free local delivery, as well as delivery throughout Manhattan and Brooklyn for an added fee.

Brooklyn

Leon & Son (Clinton Hill)

In the realm of Brooklyn wine shop offerings, Leon & Son has completely changed the game. Founded by industry veteran Chris Leon back in 2015, the shop fervently (and successfully) pursued its initial goal of becoming Clinton Hill’s go-to neighbourhood wine shop – and has since taken the entire borough by storm. Focused on ‘hidden gem wines from progressive and natural winemakers’, Leon’s selection highlights classics and newcomers alike while shedding equal light on classic regions (Piedmont, Burgundy, Champagne) and lesser-known areas in other countries (Portugal, Australia, and South Africa).

Brooklyn Wine Exchange (Cobble Hill)

Situated on the border of Brooklyn Heights and Cobble Hill, Brooklyn Wine Exchange first opened its doors in 2009 and has since become a pillar in the borough’s off-premise wine industry. The shop’s friendly staff and easy-to-navigate site make exploring new wines easy and hassle free, with prompts like ‘chilled reds’, ‘crisp mineral whites’, ‘certified biodynamic’ and ‘vegan-friendly’ promising to lead new drinkers and seasoned wine lovers alike to something new and exciting. The shop also offers annual memberships for $100, with benefits including 10% off wines and 5% off most spirits with every in-person or online purchase. We’d also be remiss not to highlight the impeccably curated spirits selection, which features a variety of classic whiskies and agave-based spirits, as well as amari, liqueurs and vermouths.

Additional wine shop recommendations in Manhattan:

Beaupierre Wine & Spirits (Hell’s Kitchen)

Morrell Wine (Midtown)

Pasanella & Son Vintners (Downtown / South Street Seaport)

Tribeca Wine Merchants (Tribeca)

Convive Wine & Spirits (East Village)

Discovery Wines (Lower East Side)

Wine & Unwind (Harlem)

Grape Collective (Upper West Side)

Eastside Cellars (Upper East Side)

Additional wine shop recommendations in Brooklyn

Vine Wine (Williamsburg)

Smith & Vine (Carroll Gardens)

VyneYard (Prospect Lefferts Gardens)

Slope Cellars (Park Slope)

Thirst Wine Merchants (Fort Greene)

Good Wine (Park Slope)

Vanderbilt Ave Wine Merchants (Prospect Heights)

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Mark your calendars! Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) returns to New York City in just over two months on Saturday, June 8! Nestled in the vibrant Financial District, we are bringing together wine aficionados from near and far to taste some of the world’s most exquisite wines.

Join us on the 60th floor of the magnificent Manhatta restaurant, where you will be treated to breathtaking views of the iconic NYC skyline, creating an unforgettable backdrop for a day dedicated to the appreciation of fine wines.

Get ready to dive into the captivating world of fine wines with a series of four exclusive masterclasses scheduled throughout the day. These sessions will offer in-depth explorations of various aspects of the wine world, providing attendees with invaluable insights and knowledge. But that’s just the beginning. Experience the heart of the event with our Grand Tasting—a luxurious journey where fine wines take centre stage, and where you’ll have the opportunity to engage with the wineries shaping the industry.

The Grand Tasting offers an exclusive showcase of wines from 50 esteemed producers from around the globe, each presenting four exceptional wines from their collections. From the timeless elegance of Old World classics to the innovative selections of the New World.

Click here to view the 2024 Exhibitors

But wait, there’s more! As a special treat, each producer will unveil a treasure from their cellar, featuring rare vintages, top cuvées, and magnums. These exclusive wines, unique to their collection, provide a rare opportunity to taste, explore, and rediscover exceptional vintages.

Here’s a sneak peak of some of the Special Wines from a few of the producers, click here for more.

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 8 June 2024 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax (save with group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

Buy tickets today

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Discover the extraordinary world of M Chapoutier’s acclaimed wines in a special masterclass led by the esteemed winemaker himself Michel Chapoutier, along with co-host Natalie Earl, Decanter’s Regional Editor for France.

On Saturday June 8, we invite you on a journey through the distinctive terroir of Hermitage and explore how the different colours perform across different zones in the Rhône Valley.

Chapoutier will guide participants through an immersive tasting experience, highlighting the influence of soil types, such as granite versus granilite and the significance of indigenous yeasts and how they influence the expression of each wine.

Wines on the day

Each meticulously crafted to showcase the diverse soils and microclimates of this renowned region.

M Chapoutier, De l’Orée, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2018

M Chapoutier, De l’Orée, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2011

M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2018

M Chapoutier, Le Méal Blanc, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2011

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2014

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Errmitage, Rhône, France 2011

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2014

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite, Ermitage, Rhône, France 2011

More on the day…

Fine wine enthusiasts will have the opportunity to sample over 200 exceptional wines from 50 of the world’s most prestigious producers in a walk-around grand tasting, held from 11 am to 5 pm. The grand tasting will also showcase the top scoring wines from the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards. Attendees can also sign up for more exclusive masterclasses from Château Haut-Brion, Peter Michael Winery and Marqués de Murrieta.

Don’t miss this extraordinary opportunity to deepen your understanding of Hermitage wines with one of the industry’s most visionary winemakers. Secure your ticket today.

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 8 June 2024 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax (save with group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

Buy tickets today

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We are thrilled to be hosting a masterclass featuring the wines of Peter Michael Winery, at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC (DFWE) on Saturday 8 June 2024. Peter Michael Winery is one of the most highly regarded producers in California, making terroir-driven, limited-production wines in a ‘California classic’ style.

During this tasting, winemaker and geophysicist Robert Fiore and Decanter’s Napa Valley correspondent Jonathan Cristaldi , will guide tasters through several vintages of two wines: ‘L’Après-Midi’, a Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend, and the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated ‘Les Pavots’, both of which come from the same single vineyard. Tasters will come to understand how terroir translates into taste in these two Bordeaux-inspired wines.

The impressive lineup for the retrospective tasting by Peter Michael Winery:

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi Sauvignon Blanc, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2010

Peter Michael, L’Après-Midi Sauvignon Blanc, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2016

Peter Michael L’Après-Midi Sauvignon Blanc, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2021

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2006 (Magnum)

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2009 (Magnum)

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2012 (Magnum)

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2016

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2021

The Peter Michael Winery masterclass is set to be a fascinating retrospective tasting of wines, which will include the 2016 Les Pavots awarded 96 points and described as having ‘Electric and satisfying layers of rich tannins and fruit decorate the landscape’, by wine writer Eduardo Dingler. It will demonstrate the quality and ageability of these wines, standing shoulder to shoulder with the world’s best.

Embark on a guided tasting journey; a ticket for The Peter Michael Winery: A retrospective tasting is priced at $245. Masterclasses are also available for Château Haut-Brion, M Chapoutier and Marqués de Murrieta. Tickets are selling fast so we recommend booking today to avoid disappointment.

Grand tasting

As well as hosting three other special masterclasses throughout the day (Château Haut-Brion, M Chapoutier and Marqués de Murrieta) fine wine lovers will also be able to attend the walk-around grand tasting with access to over 200 fine wines from 50 of the world’s most prestigious producers.

The DFWE NYC is a truly unforgettable day of fine wine tasting – we look forward to welcoming you.

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 8 June 2024 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhatta, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax (save with group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

Buy tickets today

Related articles

• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2024: Tickets are now on sale
• Photo Highlights: Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2023
• Decanter Fine Wine Encounter: A global line-up for 2024

Experience the pinnacle of wine sophistication as the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) makes its triumphant return to the bustling heart of New York City for the third consecutive year.

On Saturday 8 June, prepare to be transported to the height of luxury as you step into the luminous Bay Room, on the 60th floor of the iconic Manhatta. Here an elite gathering of 50 world-renowned wine producers will be eagerly awaiting your arrival.

Fellow wine enthusiasts and industry experts will unite for an exclusive grand tasting, showcasing exceptional wines from famous labels across the globe.

Each selection has been meticulously chosen to offer a variety of flavours that will tantalise your palate and awaken your passion for fine wines.

Tickets for the grand tasting will also grant you access to sample a selection of award-winning wines from the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards at the DWWA Winner’s Bar.

But the excitement doesn’t stop there… Immerse yourself in a world of wine education and enlightenment with our carefully curated selection of four masterclasses, held throughout the day.

Secure the opportunity to discover first-hand the history and winemaking techniques behind the oldest of the Bordeaux first growths Château Haut-Brion; the esteemed Peter Michael Winery in California; the prestigious M Chapoutier from the Rhône and the pioneering Rioja estate Marqués de Murrieta.

Each session promises to deepen your understanding and appreciation of the artistry behind every bottle.

Tickets are on sale now

Don’t miss your chance to be part of this unparalleled celebration of wine culture. Join us for incomparable taste and luxury.

Essential information

DFWE NYC

Date: Saturday 8 June 2024 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhattan, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor

New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + US sales tax (save with group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

Buy tickets today

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In the world of wine, where elegance meets excellence we are thrilled to unveil the next chapter of the world-renowned Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) for 2024.

With the prestigious London event celebrating its 27th year and the incredible New York encounter entering its third, we are excited to welcome Singapore to this illustrious line-up.

Watch: Decanter’s Global Fine Wine Encounter Launch Video

The DFWE is a celebration of the craftsmanship, passion and artistry that goes into every bottle. Prepare to embark on a journey that will captivate your senses, as our grand tastings and masterclasses unfold in stunning venues across the three cities, with each becoming a stage for a delightful selection of flavours, featuring the finest wines meticulously curated from renowned producers around the globe.

Picture yourself tasting the world’s most iconic wines amidst the timeless elegance of The Landmark London. Elevate your senses on the 60th floor at Manhatta Restaurant, where the skyline of NYC becomes the backdrop for a day of dynamic flavours. Experience the debut of our Global Encounter in Singapore at the enchanting Shangri-La, where opulent surroundings set the stage for a truly engaging wine affair.

Global Fine Wine Encounters 2024

Kickstart the series with DFWE NYC, Saturday 8 June, Bay Room at Manhatta.

DFWE Singapore. The world-renowned Encounter will make its grand debut on Saturday 26 October, at the prestigious Shangri-La Hotel.

DFWE London: Saturday 16 November 2024, The Landmark London

We cordially invite you to be part of this Global Encounter, taste the finest wines and meet the experts behind the labels.

The DFWE 2024; where each moment promises to be exceptional and truly memorable.

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Decanter Italy Experience 2024: A grand journey into Italian excellence

Photo Highlights: Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2023

Photo Highlights: Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC 2023

The star of the show was a bottle of LeNell’s Red Hook Rye 23 Year Old Barrel #1, which sold for $56,250 (£44,814).

That smashed the estimate of $20,000 to $30,000 at Sotheby’s ‘Festive Spirits and American Classics’ auction in the Big Apple.

LeNell Camacho Santa Ana owned a specialist spirits store in the Red Hook area of Brooklyn back in the 2000s.

She regularly embarked upon buying trips to Kentucky, and one of her excursions saw her land four barrels of rye that had been distilled at Bernheim Distillery in Louisville in the early 1980s.

It was used to create LeNell’s Red Hook Rye, which has emerged as one of the most distinctive and sought-after rye bottlings of all time. The 23 Year Old Barrel #1 was signed by Camacho Santa Ana.

Zev Glesta, spirits specialist at Sotheby’s, said it had secured some of the ‘rarest whiskeys that only surface once in a blue moon’ for the auction.

A bottle of Rathskeller Rye 136 Proof 1983 shattered its target of $18,000 to $24,000 by fetching $37,500 (£29,876).

The 24-year-old rye was commissioned by the Seelbach, Louisville’s grandest hotel, in 2007 to commemorate the building’s rich history.

Another highlight was a bottle of D.H. Cromwell 15 Year Old, which sold for $30,000 (£23,900) – $10,000 higher than the upper estimate.

It is one of just 72 bottles of this whiskey, which was produced by Julian ‘Pappy’ Van Winkle III at his Old Commonwealth Distillery.

The whiskey pays tribute to a Milwaukee bar owner called Helen Cromell, who often added a ‘w’ to her name to make it easier to remember.

She became a close friend of Pappy Van Winkle, so this bottling was created in 2000 to honour her memory.

Cromell was nicknamed Dirty Helen for her ‘spicy vocabulary’, and the label bears the letters VGS, short for ‘very good s***’.

Meanwhile, a bottle of Old Rip Van Winkle 25 Year Old 1989 sold for $37,500 (£29,876), which was $7,500 above the upper estimate.

It is the oldest Van Winkle whiskey ever released, nicknamed the ‘Pappy of Pappys’. It is known as the best, rarest and most coveted bottle the Julian Van Winkle III ever produced.

It was released in a run of just 710 bottles back in 2014, and it features some of the last Stitzel-Weller bourbon made at that distillery before it shut down.

A bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve 19 Year Old Corti Brothers sold for $22,500 (£17,925), while another sold for $20,000 (£15,934).

The Corti brothers ran a gourmet grocery store in Sacramento in the 1980s, which became one of the earliest buyers of Pappy Van Winkle whiskeys.

Owner Darrell Corti is credited with convincing Van Winkle to use a cognac-style bottle, which is now one of the distillery’s hallmarks.

Twelve bottles of A.H. Hirsch sold for a total of $88,750 (£70,725). The highlight was an A.H. Hirsch 19 Year Old bottle from 1974, which fetched $11,875 (£9,462).

A bottle of Michter’s Single Barrel Rye 25 Year Old also beat its upper estimate by selling for $23,750 (£18,923).

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The firm has embarked upon an ambitious expansion drive this year, having also snapped up fellow e-commerce player Barcart in June.

Flaviar said that the acquisition of Wine-Searcher ‘cements its dominant position as the global leader in beverage alcohol’.

Wine-Searcher is a leading database for wine enthusiasts, which provides information about thousands of wines, including price and availability.

‘This is a classic case where the sum is greater than the parts,’ said Flaviar CEO Jugoslav Petkovic, a Slovenian entrepreneur who co-founded the company in 2012.

‘We at Flaviar are experts in spirits and e-commerce in the US and Europe, while Wine-Searcher brings unparalleled global reach, depth of wine expertise and a wealth of historic pricing and availability data.

‘At the same time our two companies share a lot of our values, especially around independence, focus on benefits to the consumer and acting as an enabler for the industry participants to operate and improve their business.’

Wine-Searcher was established in 1999. It has featured around 18 million listings from more than 33,000 vendors, spread across 126 countries.

The database is searched nearly 300 million times per year, according to the company, and it has more than five million monthly active users.

‘After nearly 25 years of building Wine-Searcher’s database, relationships and reputation I’m leaving the company in the capable hands of a wonderful team and with full confidence that with the seasoned management team and new ownership the best days are still ahead,’ said Wine-Searcher founder Martin Brown.

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‘As a farmer, especially as a Finger Lakes grape grower, you have to be unendingly optimistic. This year is no different in that respect,’ said vineyard manager Tim Hosmer of Hosmer Winery.

Difficult years like 2023 are nothing new to Hosmer, who oversees 28ha for his family’s Cayuga Lake property. Hosmer Winery, which sustained minimal damage in the May frost, has been farmed sustainably since the 1930s.

As the season ploughs on and new challenges surface, Hosmer’s ‘unending optimism’ is echoed by producers across the state.

Predictably unpredictable

Cornell Cooperative Extension senior viticulture extension associate Hans Walter-Peterson believes that extensive media coverage of the May frost did New York no favours with consumers. He is clear that even the state’s hardest-hit regions, like the Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley, will still make delicious wine in 2023.

‘We’ve been through hard years before and came out in good shape,’ he said.

Lower yields are expected in some locations where damage was most extreme, but overall, the industry is feeling positive about the 2023 vintage.

A celebrated hallmark of New York wines is vintage variation. And rightfully so, with each growing season varying from the last. ‘The jet stream breaking down means weather patterns tend to get stuck here,’ Alex Alvarez-Perez of Usonia Wine explained.

In the six years they’ve been making Finger Lakes wine, inconsistency is the only constant. ‘It’s either a drought (’20, ’22) or extremely wet (’21). Or you get months-long drought conditions followed by high rainfall and disease pressure like both 2018 and 2023,’ Alvarez-Perez continued.

Matthew Spaccarelli agrees. ‘Unpredictability seems to be the norm now,’ said the Hudson Valley wine-grower and maker for Fjord Vineyards and Benmarl Winery. Benmarl holds Farm Winery License no. 01 in the state and Spaccarelli has been farming the historical land since 2006. He noted that ‘winter lows, early bud break, late frost, spring droughts, summer rains [or droughts] and hurricanes’ are just the beginning.

This summer’s higher-than-average rainfall has kept growers busy in a season ripe for mould and mildew. The rains have also contributed to vigorous vine growth – perhaps a good problem to have, especially after a devastating weather event.

A promising vintage

Though Long Island avoided a late frost due to its warmer maritime climate, the region also battled heavy precipitation. At Lenz Winery, Sam McCullough’s first line of defence is crop management. ‘We strive to retain fruit that is well positioned to receive adequate light for flavour development and is also well-positioned to allow for adequate air circulation to aid in fungal disease prevention,’ he said. He highlighted that thinning is not about quantity, but quality.

‘This season looks promising at this point as veraison has proceeded rapidly and evenly,’ he added. ‘As long as the weather cooperates, meaning mainly warm, sunny and dry, we should see an excellent red vintage.’

Many echo hopes of a ‘cooperative’ September across the state. The month is known to make or break a vintage. Given the volume of rainfall to date, a warm and dry autumn seems crucial.

Veraison brings relief to Colleen Hardy, co-owner of Living Roots Wine & Co. on Keuka Lake. ‘The fruitfulness of the secondary buds has been pleasantly surprising,’ said Hardy of the additional growth seen in the Keuka Lake estate vineyards since May. She estimates just 20-30% loss by the end of the season, compared to an initial estimate of 60-80% of primary buds after the frost.

Hardy said the varying stages of ripeness from primary to secondary bud was a welcomed challenge. ‘We’re optimistic about quality with lower yields and good vine health,’ she noted. Like others across the state, Living Roots will employ multiple passes in the vineyard, leaving some clusters behind to ripen through October or November if the season allows. The team expects to begin picking hybrids for sparkling in early September.

Optimism over everything

This year also marks the inaugural vintage of wines made from grapes certified by the New York Sustainable Winegrowing programme. ‘Just because a year is more challenging doesn’t mean we toss out everything we know about good, sound, environmentally-friendly viticulture,’ said Walter-Peterson.

A total of 49 vineyards achieved certification status, and will offer wines bearing the Trustmark as soon as next summer. Walter-Peterson urges consumers to show their support of New York wine monetarily: ‘This is a time when consumers can really step up and help out wineries. Buying directly from them maximises their revenue.’

Though grapes are just starting to come in, Walter-Peterson already has his eye on 2024: ‘We’ll bounce back. Next year is always another chance to have a great year.’

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In Long Island in 1973, Louisa and Alex Hargrave stepped out on a limb. They were convinced Long Island would be the perfect place to grow grapes for fine wines and planted vinifera in Cutchogue, New York.

The couple took over a dilapidated potato farm and planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc. Hargrave Vineyard soon became the region’s first successful commercial vineyard and winery.

This year (2023) marks a golden anniversary for Long Island, and there is much to celebrate. Fifty years later, the region boasts 57 producers across its three American Viticultural Areas of Long Island and sub-regions of The Hamptons and the North Fork.

‘Many observers have a hard time grasping the notion that fine wine can be grown on Long Island,’ says Kareem Massoud, president of Long Island Wine Country. ‘There’s so much scepticism. But it’s a really fun and interesting place to grow fine wine.’

Massoud knows the land intimately – his family founded Paumanok Vineyards in the early 1980s when he was a child. In 2018, the family acquired Palmer Vineyards and Massoud serves as the winemaker for both.

‘We all knew something special was happening across the whole region,’ he says. ‘Watching it grow and blossom to where we have dozens of producers making high-quality wines has been so exciting.’

Unlike anywhere else

Long Island sits just two hours outside New York City and is widely supported by the city’s residents seeking a summer escape. The land splits into two forks. The surrounding waters of the Atlantic Ocean, Long Island Sound and Peconic Bay moderate its maritime climate.

While The Hamptons AVA is a tourist hot spot brimmed with vacation rentals, the North Fork is home to most of the region’s vineyards and wineries.

Over 25 varieties of grapes are planted in Long Island, with more than 90% being vinifera.

‘The diversity of grape varieties we can grow successfully, and the resulting spectrum of wine styles possible from those raw materials, is indeed an incredible palate to create from,’ explains James Christopher Tracy, partner and winemaker at Channing Daughters.

Alongside common regional varieties like Chardonnay and Merlot, he creates wines from varieties like Malvasia, Refosco, and Ribolla Gialla.

‘The difference in sites and the fact we get to utilise grapes from all three AVAs just adds to the complexity and possibilities,’ says Tracy, who is focused on pushing the boundaries of New York wine.

The region’s well-draining sandy loam soils with gravelly, sandy subsoils are critical to its success. As is meticulous farming. ‘There’s really no margin for error in the viticulture we do on Long Island,’ says Massoud.

An underdog and overachiever

For the team at RGNY, regional experimentation was key in deciding to expand the brand to the North Fork. ‘New regions allow you to do much more innovative work, which is part of our DNA at RGNY,’ explains CEO Maria Rivero González.

‘It had to be an underdog region,’ continues Rivero González. Her family established its eponymous winery in Mexico’s Parras Valley in 1998. RGNY launched in 2019, with the pandemic following shortly afterwards.

Rivero González notes the timing was both problematic and important for new brands to find their footing. ‘People were buying what they knew, but the North Fork exploded,’ she says. Unable to travel, New Yorkers discovered wine in their own backyards.

Like many producers in Long Island, Rivero González is focused on pushing the envelope. ‘Driving something different in any region is good. Change is good.’

Driving forward

Tis year has been full of celebrations for Long Island Wine Country, culminating in a Grand Celebration at Peconic Bay Vineyards on 19 August.

Despite the excitement, producers remain heavily focused on what comes next.

The 2023 vintage has remained mostly chaotic in New York, with a late frost providing widespread damage in the state’s largest wine-producing Finger Lakes region. Though Long Island found safety in its warmer temperatures, the concern about the future remains.

‘We’re a cool climate region on a warming planet. That means we’re relatively well-positioned for climate change,’ explains Massoud. ‘Without any question, the number one issue we face over the next 50 years cannot be anything other than climate change.’

Sustainable initiatives are top of mind for producers like Paumonak and Palmer, RGNY, and Channing Daughters, all of whom belong to Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing, which launched in 2012.

Massoud notes hybrid and native grape varieties may also be on the way for Long Island. ‘If you’re serious about sustainability, leaving them out of the conversation is impossible.’

At its core, Long Island is pushing for the best possible expression of home through high-quality wines and experiences. ‘Our wineries take great pride in their achievements, which have been made possible by the unwavering support of loyal customers and the local community,’ says Massoud.

Massoud recommends visiting the small but mighty wine region to see it first-hand for those new to Long Island wine. ‘I always invite people to come and visit. Don’t take my word for it. Come and judge for yourself.’

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Forge Cellars is committed to exploring the unique terroir of the southeastern side of Seneca Lake. This section, known as ‘The Banana Belt,’ ripens fruit well due to west-facing slopes that maximise the heat of the late afternoon sun. The winery sources grapes from 13 sites and produces a unique single-vineyard dry Riesling from each.

Scroll down to see 10 Forge Cellars wines to try

All Rieslings ferment in casks until bone dry, yet none are acerbic or challenging to appreciate, even in their youth. From this collection of sites, Forge also crafts in some vintages two single vineyard Pinot Noirs, three Cabernet Francs, and a Chardonnay, as well as the ‘Classique’ range of blended dry Riesling and Pinot Noir that provide an entry point to the range.

 Rhône roots

Forge Cellars is the brainchild of Louis Barruol and Rick Rainey. Barruol represents the 15^th generation of his family to own the Château de Saint-Cosme in Gigondas. Passionate and articulate, he is responsible for the winemaking, while Florida-born Rainey is responsible for sourcing the fruit and overseeing the grape growing.

The Rhône is very different from the Finger Lakes, but Barruol says, ‘Although we don’t do the same things in each place, we are still the same vignerons.’ He had always wanted to create a new winery from scratch, and Rainey, who worked for the Saint-Cosme importer, introduced him to the terroir of the Finger Lakes.

‘It is Seneca Lake that we truly believe in,’ he explains: ‘it is the deepest of the Finger Lakes and holds the heat, buffering the cool dominant winds from the northwest before they reach us.’

‘After that, it is necessary to learn the code of the terroir. We use French methods in our search for minerality and expression of terroir. America’s ‘great white wine’ will not be a 14.5% Chardonnay but a Riesling at 12%.’

A selection of Seneca vineyards

Vineyard: Willow Vineyard

Farmed by: John Wagner

Planted: 2014 

Elevation: 220m

Key vineyard details: Willow is the furthest north of the sites from which Forge sources on the east side of Seneca Lake. It is located in the village of Lodi. Aurora and Farmington silt loam on shale with a west-facing aspect. Because of the sand and the light reflecting off the water, this is among the earliest vineyards to ripen.

Key wines: Riesling and Cabernet Franc are planted in sandy soils at 220m.

Vineyard: Railroad Vineyard

Farmed by: John Wagner

Planted: 1995

Elevation: 250m

Key vineyard details: Located near the village of Lodi, perfectly preserved railroad ties from a clearly defined route for the historic Lehigh Valley Railroad from the early 1900s bisect the vineyard. Honeoye and Lima silt loam on shale.

Key wines: Riesling is planted here in heavier gravelly loam soils that impart more richness and fruit.

Vineyard: Wagner Caywood East

Farmed by: John Wagner

Planted: 2005 & 2006

Elevation: 300m

Key vineyard details: Located near the village of Caywood. At the top of the slope at an average elevation of 300m, it is a 5.6hasite on a drastic slope in soils of almost pure shale. (Lansing and Conesus gravelly silt loam on shale.)The vineyards have been converted to vertical shoot positioning and are very low-yielding: the average is 35 hl/ha, while some growers can harvest three times that amount.

Key wines: Riesling with electric character

Vineyard: Caywood Vineyard

Farmed by: Matt Doyle

Planted: 1972 & 1973

Elevation: 215m

Key vineyard details: Near the village of Caywood, on Honeoye silt loam on shale. Caywood is the most historical of the Seneca Lake sites planted by one of the region’s two most important figures, Charles Fournier, who pioneered Vitis vinifera in the Finger Lakes. The vineyard is relatively flat, and the topsoil is very thin, yielding concentrated wines.

Key wines: Riesling and Chardonnay with old vine character.

Vineyard: Freese Vineyard

Farmed by: Mark Wagner

Planted: mid-1990s

Elevation: 235m

Key vineyard details: Near the village of Lodi, on Conesus and Lansing silt loam atop shale. Near Breakneck Creek, which has some moderating influence on the vines. Forge began working with this vineyard in 2015 and bottled it for the first time as a lieu-dit in the 2018 vintage. The Riesling planted here has a balance between salinity and ripe fruit.

Key wines: Riesling that is ‘prudent and precise, offering ripeness and restraint.’

Vineyard: Breakneck Creek

Farmed by: John Santos & Doug Hazlitt

Planted: 1992

Elevation: 238m

Key vineyard details: Near the village of Valois, Lansing and Conesus silt loam on shale. Breakneck Creek was so called owing to the steep slope down which it ran to Seneca Lake. The creek runs parallel to Lake Seneca, drawing cool air in to give a salty marine edge to the wines.

Key wines: Riesling

From vines to wines

Barruol explains that he has been certified organic at Saint-Cosme ‘since forever’, but this type of viticulture is difficult in the Finger Lakes, where one finds copious rain during the growing season and more heat than one might think. ‘Mildew loves that! We are developing alternative organic solutions, but you can’t go too far without knowing what works.’

The 6ha home vineyard, Bellows, is farmed using organic methods but not certified. The vineyards are tilled but only as needed for weed control (many neighbours are using herbicides), and the canopy is managed with enough leaf-pulling to ensure both ripeness and the airflow to reduce mildew.

Forge is part of a group of growers in the Finger Lakes along with Silver Thread, Hermann J. Weimer, Dr Konstantin Frank and others that follow sustainable practices, including regenerative agriculture, bio-intensive farming, biodynamics, and the VineBalance sustainability practice developed at nearby Cornell University.

The hand-picked grapes are pressed whole-cluster. However, the fruit sourced from machine-picked vineyards is pressed as whole berries. The press cycle is long and slow, done in old mechanical Vaslin presses. For the single vineyard ‘Lieux-Dits’ bottlings, the must is settled overnight and run into neutral large and small casks with some of the lees for a long slow fermentation.

Tank-fermented wines form the base of the ‘Classique’ range, supplemented by barrels from single vineyards. Although the grapes are fermented until bone dry, there is nothing harsh or biting in the Forge style – on the contrary, a delightfully soft, floral perfume permeates the Rieslings.

The reds ferment with a proportion of whole clusters that can vary from 10-40%, and the wines are gently extracted with a light punching down to ensure a silky tannic structure. All fermentations use the starter or ‘pied de cuve’ method with ambient yeasts.

Forging a future

Barruol and Rainey continue to grow the volume at Forge Cellars, which they hope will top out at 15,000 cases, ideally with a mix of 80% dry Riesling and 20% red wine. The wines are well-distributed abroad, and the team is on a mission to spread the message that the Finger Lakes can offer wines of minerality, freshness, and complexity.

Barruol believes that the Finger Lakes is the region of the future, where despite global warming, the vines give wines of 12° with lively acidity — ‘Difficult vintages are less and less frequent’. Now that the winery is turning out consistently delicious wines, it seems that Barroul’s dream of creating a stellar winery ex nihilio has finally come to pass.

Vintage notes

2022: The December of 2022 was warmer than the average, and the vines were not fully dormant when a cold snap in January sent temperatures as low as -25° C. Relatively few vines died completely, but this extreme cold reduced yield by up to 50% in some sites. From the onset of spring, however, many growers were reminded of the beautiful conditions of 2020, with abundant sun and arid conditions—the season was drier for longer than many could remember. The drought led to small grapes with thick skins, which easily withstood the rain that fell in September. In short, the quality of the 2022 vintage is superb, but the quantity of grapes is small.

2021: Dry and sunny weather kicked off the growing season in the Finger Lakes. After flowering, however, the region saw much more rainfall than average. This lead to fungal disease and difficult ripening. Although the rain let up in September, most growers picked in the rain, making this among the most challenging of recent vintages. At Forge, the vintage is compared to an oyster, with the best wines showing a compelling salty quality.

2020: The season began with cooler-than-normal temperatures in April and May, and some vines were damaged by frost in early May. After flowering, however, temperatures were warmer, and the weather was notably dry. Drought conditions helped the grapes to ripen to exceptional levels, and yet levels of acidity and alcohol were close to normal — overall, a very successful vintage

2019: Cooler weather early in the season led to a classic vintage for white wines in the 2019 vintage. The lower temperatures delivered crisp acidity. Yet July and September were very sunny, producing healthy grapes and good ripeness to the structured fruit — an excellent year for white wine.

2018: Warm, wet weather was the general rule for 2018, and the rain intensified throughout the season. While conditions during the early season were close to normal, the weather became increasingly warm and wet from the end of veraison, increasing the threat of botrytis. A challenging year with a small crop.

2017: Flowering was warm and wet, but July and August were drier and cooler than average. The sun returned in September and most of October to deliver a good-sized, ripe crop with crisp acidity levels and balance — a good year for both red and white.

2016: A warm and very dry vintage producing concentrated fruit. The yield was 10 – 20% lower than usual. The heat produced a moderate crop of healthy grapes with excellent ripeness and slightly lower-than-average acidity — a good year, particularly for red wines.

Forge Cellars an exploration of Seneca Lake terroir in 10 wines

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With 34 Louis Roederer harvests under his belt, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon is perfectly positioned to talk about the estate’s developments and shift in farming practises over the past few decades but far from being bored or lackadaisical he remains as passionate and ‘excited as ever’ about crafting Champagne and ensuring the future of this prestigious House.

During the 90-minute masterclass, Champagne lovers were treated to eight wines that showcased both the individual terroirs and climates of Champagne combined with the stylistic principles – and new direction – of Louis Roederer.

• Collection 243 NV
• Vintage 2015
• Vintage Rosé 2016
• Blanc de Blancs 2015
• Cristal 2014
• Cristal 2008
• Cristal 2002
• Cristal Rosé 2012

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all eight Louis Roederer Champagnes in the Decanter masterclass

Detailing the micro-, meso- and even nano- climates available in the region – and why they matter – Lécaillon spoke emphatically and effusively about what he believes makes Champagne the best white wine terroir in the world, why all Louis Roederer vintage Champagnes are made from vineyards they own, the importance of biodynamics and the particularities of their revered Cristal bottlings.

Starting out

Upon finishing university, Lécaillon recalled he was in demand from three different Houses but he just ‘couldn’t resist Roederer’. He joined in 1989 and by 1999 was appointed the ‘master’ of both the cellar and vineyard as chef de cave or chief winemaker as well as head of viticulture – the first to take on the dual responsibilities and jobs that even today remain quite separate in in the region. ‘I knew that if I didn’t perfectly control the vineyards I wouldn’t be able to deliver the best possible quality,’ he said. ‘I have full control of the fruit [Louis Roederer has 240 estate-owned vineyards] from beginning to the end and that’s very important.’

For Lécaillon, three critical ingredients comprise the uniqueness of Champagne’s terroir for making great white wines; the first being chalk on limestone with calcium giving natural freshness – ‘it’s not just about acidity, it’s about the feeling of freshness’ he said. The second being the presence of clay to give enough nutrients to the vine without too much stress and the third being water with Champagne benefitting from the combination of both oceanic and continental climates (that bring unfortunate storms and hail but beneficial rainfall during summer) as well as the largest underground reservoir in Europe feeding the Seine and Marne rivers underneath the region’s hallowed vines.

‘It’s not just because I live here, was born here and my children were born here,’ he said half-jokingly, ‘but it’s a beautiful territory’.

The House

Founded in 1776, and remaining as an independent, family-run business for more than two centuries, Louis Roederer is known for its commitment to producing high-quality, handcrafted Champagnes that depict the unique terroir of the region as well as being recognised for its commitment to sustainable viticulture with a focus on organic and biodynamic practises in the vineyards. It’s also known for being at the forefront of ‘what Champagne can do at its best’ as Lécaillon put it.

Referencing the estate’s reputation for pioneering practises, Lécaillon revealed the estate was the first to buy and use a press, one of the first to buy and manage their own vineyards and more recently one of the first to ‘deliberately adapt and make a cultural change to cope with climate change’.

Briefly referencing the phenomenon in relation to the just-cleared smoke from the Canadian wildfires, that lifted the day before the New York Encounter, Lécaillon revealed; ‘When I started out we were picking in October and now we’re picking at the end of August/ beginning of September – we’re picking 30 days ahead of 30 years ago. It means we have riper grapes and as such a different kind of ingredient to work with. We had to re-lean how to farm the vines and how to make the wines because the recipe of the 1960s and 1970s didn’t work anymore.’

The radical developments in the growth cycle and particularly the ripeness of grapes at harvest led to a shift to organic farming in the early 2000s, focusing on driving roots deep into the ground to get ‘the best of the terroir and not be influenced by any kind of pesticide or chemical that could change the behaviour of the vines.’

The idea and vision of the family was that ‘the more the vines are in balance with the soil, the more singular and characterful the wines become’. Work with indigenous yeasts also started around the same time to add to the harmony between the vineyard and the cellar with 20% of production now fermented this way.

Trials with biodynamics followed and by 2012 100% of vines for the Blanc de Blancs, Cristal and Cristal Rosé cuvées (50% of total holdings) were being farmed both organically and biodynamically with organic certification achieved in 2018. ‘Pinot Noir reacts faster than Chardonnay,’ Lecaillon revealed, ‘after three or four years it changes, while Chardonnay takes between six and eight to go to the next level where you get more freshness and concentration’.

With a production of more than 3.5 million bottles of Champagne annually, Louis Roederer is now the biggest biodynamic producer in the region.

‘Our goal is to be as concentrated and fresh as possible and biodynamics gives us that but plus plus for both’. The practise is credited with producing a lower pH in the resulting wines and reducing Lécaillon’s need for sulphur usage with Chardonnay.

Over the years the team has changed the canopy management particularly for the prestige cuvée Cristal, pursuing more of a ‘bonsai’ style of growth with low-trained vines at a high, 10,000 vine per hectare density driving competition between the roots and forcing depth. The magic of Cristal ‘happens underground’ Lécaillon says.

The tasting

The eight wines in the tasting were chosen to represent a journey through Champagnes terroirs and climates with their multi-vintage, numbered series using the power of micro-climates to mitigate the effects of different altitudes across the region as well as proximity to rivers and forests. ‘We want the full potential of chalky, clay and sand and the full power of south, north and east exposures. Because of the oceanic and continental weather, vintages can be wet, cool, warm or dry which all produce different expressions. We use the power of these micro-climates to make sure we give a consistent quality year in year out whatever the climate.’

Vintage wines showcase meso-climates with specific plots chosen to bring out different expressions of the grapes – the ‘bouquet of Pinot Noir from Verzy’ for instance. Any Champagne with a vintage on it also come solely from Louis Roederer vineyards with the team able to better control the results. ‘You can’t just take the grapes at harvest, you need to be ahead – to farm and control the yields, even the plantations, to make the cuvée you want’.

And Cristal benefits from what Lécaillon calls a nano-climate, where the weather is less of an issue and it’s all about what is underground. ‘What makes Cristal so different is the soil, the chalky bedrock’. Grapes come from ‘the best grand cru, mid slope and the chalkiest part’. The weather isn’t the issue, Lécaillon says, ‘because there is so much power in the chalk. It’s a special eco-system which is stable and doesn’t change if it’s too wet or too dry. The terroir is poor and high pH, roots are sitting on ‘slow life – they don’t care about the climate’. Such is the need for deep root systems for Cristal, none of the grapes produced in the first twenty years ever see the inside of the famed clear, flat-bottomed bottles. ‘After 20 years the roots are deep in the chalk not on the chalk then they can make Cristal’. The average age of the vineyards for Cristal is 42-45 years old with a range from 20 to 70 years old.

Collection 243 NV

The 243rd multi-vintage blend since Louis Roederer was created in 1776 – replacing the previous Brut Premier. This uses base wines from the early-ripening 2018 vintage which they had to work to make ‘fresh and light’. Created as an apéritif style, this has to be easy-drinking and refreshing. The collection also uses, since 2012, one third of ‘reserve perpétuelle’ akin to a Solera system, preserving mature wines and adding to them each year for ‘more complexity and more timeless Champagnes’.

Vintage 2015

A hot and uneven vintage where ‘a lot of people picked too early’ said Lécaillon who revealed he ‘loves these kinds of vintages because they’re challenging’.

This is a ‘singular vintage coming after the more classic 2012, 2013 and 2014. A typical climate change vintage and one in which you feel lucky to have been working for 15 years to try and handle with some tools to activate in order to cope better’.

Grapes come from Montagne de Reims in the village of Verzy, the highest elevation in Champagne surrounded by forests giving a fresh meso-climate. The vision of Louis Roederer in 1840 when the vineyard was purchased, this is designed to be a ‘gastronomic wine’ with a specific expression of Pinot Noir softened by lesser percentage of Chardonnay.

Vintage Rosé 2016

Moving south, grapes come from Éperney on both south-facing slopes (Pinot Noir) one side of the Marne river and north-facing slopes (Chardonnay) on the opposite side. 2016 is more ‘classical compared to 2015, being more delicate and saline’.

Blanc de Blancs 2015

Made from four plots in Avize in the middle of the Côte de Blancs, this cuvée was first created in 1930 and consumed at the end of family fox hunting trips. Bottles from the 30s, 40s and 50s will feature corks with a deer on the back referencing the pastime. The Champagne was eventually commercialised in 1950 due to the increasing popularity of Chardonnay. Made with a lower pressure than their other bottlings, at 4gk rather than 6gk, there is a creamier mousse and less CO2 for a softer toucher.

Cristal 2014

A ‘duel identity’ vintage for Lécaillon which had a wet summer until the middle of August and then a long, perfectly dry and sunny period until harvest. So both cool-climate but with ripeness too’.

The two expressions are ‘not yet communicating’ says Lécaillon but ‘they will come together in a few years and will be interesting to see the results’.

Cristal 2008

One of the ‘two monsters’ introduced Lécaillon with 2008 and 2002 the best vintages of the 2000s. A dry and cool year, 2008 was ‘1996 replayed’.

‘If 2008 is so good in Champagne in 2008 it’s because all the chefs de caves had made 1996 and learnt from their mistakes. In 1996 we picked too early and sticked to our recipes, in 2008 we adapted where nature and man worked hand in hand’.

2008 was the first year to include all 45 Cristal plots, where usually some would be eliminated.

Cristal 2002

Picked at the same date as in 2008 (10th September), Lécaillon described this a ‘beautiful wine’ in the ‘window of beauty’ at around 20 years old. It’s at a ‘perfect, magic point’.

Cristal Rosé 2012

Created in 1876 for the Tzar Alexander who wanted a ‘spectacular bottle’ for the Russian court, it was revitalized in 1974 to celebrate a century of the cuvée. Grapes are taken from the two earliest ripening plots of Aÿ, and two of the latest plots – one of Chardonnay from Avize, one from Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger to contrast the ripeness of Pinot with the freshness of Chardonnay. It’s ‘Cristal first’ says Lécaillon, with the same DNA and elegance. It was the first wine to be converted to organic and from 2007 the plots farmed biodynamically. Lécaillon likes the contrast of carbon dioxide, acidity and tannins and likes to release the Rosé iterations a few years after their white counterparts giving more lees integration.

Looking ahead

Approaching his 35th harvest in a few months, Lécaillon considers what is needed to be a great winemaker. There are three important stages he says, ‘when you trust yourself – self confidence is important, as is having your own long-term vision of what you want to do’. Secondly, to move from good winemaker to the beginning of craftsmanship you need to ‘trust your terroir – the moment you believe in it, let it play and don’t act too much you go the next level’. What follows is ‘artistry – where you have to trust your yeasts – they are the real winemakers. You have the juice, but they transform it into wine’.

While not drawn on how long this might take, Lécaillon seems to embody all three with a natural confidence and belief in what he’s doing. Even with a blend of Cristal, ‘sometimes the figures aren’t good – the pH isn’t what it should be for instance, but I remember the plots I visited during the spring and summer and the spirit at the time of the harvest. As a trained winemaker perhaps I wouldn’t continue but as a farmer having felt it I have belief. You need to touch, feel and smell. These are the main tools, then taste of course. Then look at the figures.’

I asked which of the recent vintages – 2018 to 2022 he was most excited about, Lécaillon calls the 2022 vintage ‘amazing’ and highlights 2019 as ‘really good too’.

Speaking of 2022, he said: ‘It’s great because it was so unexpected. There was so much heat, so much drought and yet so much freshness.’ The vintage reminds him of 2002 albeit in a different style ‘but perfection. A grand slam – I won the lottery with the 2022,’ he said with a smile.

With experiments, and the desire, to age their Champagnes even longer on the lees currently at around seven years though 10 ‘is more interesting’, we may be waiting a while for either the 2019 or 2022 vintages but there are plenty of exceptional wines to be enjoyed in the meantime as this wonderful masterclass showed.

See tasting notes and scores for all eight Louis Roederer Champagnes in the masterclass

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There was a palpable sense of excitement and suspense resonating throughout the audience at this Decanter Masterclass as Will Harlan, managing director at Domain H. William Harlan, and I prepared to present an extremely rare lineup of Harlan Estate wines, beginning with their fourth produced vintage, 1994, and culminating with the 2018.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all seven wines tasted at the Three Decades of Harlan Estate masterclass in New York

A special place

I led by offering up a visual perspective of the estate. I illustrated its two distinct ridges on the southern Mayacamas, overlooking Martha’s Vineyard and parts of To Kalon vineyards. The soft and old sandstone soils on its western ridges and the hard, younger volcanic soils on its eastern knolls.

Will talked of his father, Bill Harlan’s consequential trip to Bordeaux and Burgundy in the 1950s – a trip arranged by Robert Mondavi and how it cemented in Harlan’s mind the importance of finding the absolute best vineyard land in Napa. Land with the best character and potential for distinction. Harlan envisioned a 200-year plan that would see its inception with the purchase of 97ha of woodlands, which today comprises Harlan Estate and its 16.2 hectares of planted vines.

Our discussion centred on the land and the evolution of farming at Harlan. Vineyard blocks are monitored, and tended to, by the entire viticulture team while specific parcels are farmed by seven ‘vine masters’ year after year.

Will explained that the vintages he had chosen each represented ‘inflection points’ in their evolutionary process.

The lucky 50 attendees also learned that three vintages of Harlan had been produced and never released—1987, 1988, and 1989—and Will confessed, ‘We kept those. We still have them. We drink them from time to time,’ he said. But when the 1990 vintage came along, it was the first vintage that made Bill Harlan realise he ‘might actually have a piece of land that could someday be considered one of the finest sites in Napa.’ Adding that ‘it was the light bulb for us’.

Harlan masterclass: The wines

The wines Will poured for the masterclass told a story of the Harlan estate over the last 30 years. A confluence of commitment to place, a detailed approach to farming and undeniable ageability.

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 1994

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 1997

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 2001

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 2005

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 2013

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 2016

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley, California, USA 2018

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines featured in this masterclass

During the masterclass, Will described the lengths his father went to find a piece of land. Time was spent hiking in the hills for years before deciding on the property that is now Harlan Estate. He painted so vivid a picture of the place that it was easy to envision their stretch of pristine hills in Oakville and the vineyard nestled amidst dense forestland that had to be cleared before Bill could plant vines. The young Harlan explained that the character of the place is as essential to the style of wine as the aromas, flavours, and textures.

The tasting revealed wines of structure, ageability and, most notably, illustrated three separate phases of Harlan’s evolution. We could taste the building blocks of greatness in the 1994 and 1997, and could sense the vine maturity as we tasted 2001, 2005, and 2013, and above all, noticed the precision and freshness as a result of remarkably precise farming as we made our way to tasting the 2016 and 2018.

Three Decades of Harlan Estate: 7 wines across 30 years

1994

All the wines poured came from 75cl bottles, and had been opened and double decanted about an hour before guests arrived. We intentionally poured the 1994 and 1997 about 15-20 minutes into the masterclass. From a relatively cool year, which ended with warmer weather, it is a vintage for the estate that has been highly praised and did not disappoint. At 29 years of age, it was certainly the most delicate of the lineup and a spectacular example of how Napa Cabernet sheds its fruit weight to reveal a savoury wine, still imbued with texture, energy, and vitality.

1997

Jumping to 1997, having followed the 1994 this wine was surprising for its remarkably dense, intensely concentrated colour and profile. Will Harlan described it as ‘Probably the most controversial vintage we’d ever produced at the time.’ He went on to say that a cadre of critics found it too big a wine. After 25 years, it’s starting to find its groove.

2001

In the 2001 vintage, we begin to see an evolution in the Harlan style—‘inflection points,’ as Will Harlan puts it. The vines are maturing, and farming continues to inch the estate ever close to its goal of dry farming. In 2001, a warm early autumn meant harvest finished in October. The relatively cool season brought low yields of 1.5 tons per acre. The resulting wine was lauded as impressively Bordeaux in style, which I asked Will about. He replied that it was ‘very flattering’ but pointedly said, ‘On the other hand, this is not Old World, and it’s not trying to be Old World. There are elements that you can find—some small similarities—but, at the end of the day, this is its own animal.’

2005

Will explained that the 2005 embodied the kind of wine they are trying to make, which he described in complex details. ‘We try and make a wine that is not quite at the apex on a graph, but [our aim] is more toward the area under the graph. We want our wine to capture the greatest area under the graph. So, as the wine evolves in the bottle, some vintages will plateau. It’s going to take a longer time for them to peak. I don’t think that a wine can be considered a fine wine unless it can age.’

2013

With the 2013 vintage, we find the third inflection point, or era, in farming at Harlan Estate. The vines are quite mature now, and much of the estate is on its way to dry farming without using irrigation. Upon release, this wine was very structured and tightly wound. At the 10-year mark, it’s relaxing a little and offering up the kind of softness and intrigue that only comes with time in the bottle. It was also one of Will Harlan’s first vintages in which he participated in the blending sessions alongside his father and founder, Bill, director of wine growing Bob Levy, founding director Don Weaver and winemaker Cory Empting. I felt we caught this wine in a transitional moment—shedding its baby fat and, perhaps, getting ready for a long slumber. It will re-awaken in five-seven years and give off firework displays for the remainder of its life.

2016

Earlier in the masterclass, Will accidentally revealed the year of this wine which we had not listed on the guests tasting sheets. The intention was to talk about a finite realisation—a data point or definitive inflection point where mature vines, dry farming, and vine masters who tend to sections of the vineyards are beginning to produce what Harlan described as ‘clarity and wonderful precision’ in the wines. No question that 2016 was the top wine of the masterclass, with so much to give, such pointed complexity and balance of full-bodied Napa Cabernet with structure, tension, and a delineation of both flavours and textures.

2018

As we neared the close of the masterclass, one could sense that the natural flow of conversation was rewarding for those in attendance. Questions had been largely about varietal composition (Harlan can be notorious for skirting around specifics here), replanting, and when to drink wines. Some attendees had wines of Harlan Estate going back to 1990 in their cellar—the first release!

With 2018 in our glass, it was clear how far the estate had come since the 1994 bottling—and Will Harlan put it best as he spoke of the place and the sense of the Harlan estate in the glass. ‘Harlan estate has this element of the forest, surrounded by forest. There’s a certain warmth, a certain softness, like moss and walking in and through that dense forest. It has a tannin structure that tends to be almost spherical with a freshness and detail that’s not even of the physical realm.’

With that, our time was up. We raised our glasses in thanks for the bounty we had just experienced and toasted to the bright and long-lived future of the Harlan Estate.

Wines tasted at the Three Decades of Harlan masterclass in New York:

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Gaia credits New York and American wine writer Burton Anderson with pushing fine Italian wine to the forefront of the world’s awareness. The waves of Italian immigrants to the United States wanted a taste of their homeland that was not present in the bulk wines from Italy that dominated the market for much of the 1970s and 80s. Gaja has been importing its wines to the US for 45 years.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 10 wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York

Anderson’s 1980 book Vino: The Wines and Winemakers of Italy spotlighted the country’s fine wine producers. It was a catalyst for New York-based importers, restaurants and sommeliers seeking to learn more about the country’s top producers.

A family steeped in history

The Gaja family started making wines in 1859. Giovanni Gaja owned a tavern and started making wine to serve there. The quality of the wines raised the tavern’s popularity, and soon Giovanni decided to make wine his focus, eventually closing to focus on wines in 1902.

As pioneers for both the Barbaresco region and the country of Italy, they have led the way in terms of quality and conceptualising wines of place for 164 years.

In 1905, second-generation winemaker Angelo Gaja marked his business cards as a ‘producer of wines of luxury,’ a concept that would not have existed in the pastoral setting of the village and hills of Barbaresco. It announced the ambition he had for the wines of the Gaja family.

By 1937, Gaia’s grandfather and third-generation, Giovanni Gaja had begun producing Barbaresco of different quality classifications. This included Barbaresco normale, Barbaresco classico, Barbaresco fino and Barbaresco superiore, introducing an entirely new concept to wines of the region.

Additionally, Giovanni became known for not producing wine in bad vintages — a commitment to quality unheard of at the time.

Her father, Angelo, whom Gaia described as ‘rebellious’, would continue this tradition of innovation, becoming the first to make single-vineyard wines in Barbaresco and highlighting the family’s commitment to quality and the terroir of their estate vineyards. Angelo’s rebellious streak would see him plant Bordeaux varieties in Barbaresco, another first.

Gaia and her two siblings are all involved in the current iteration of Gaja. Rather than focus on one area of the business, they share responsibility equally across the brand, involving themselves in viticultural decisions, winemaking and marketing, and working collaboratively with their father, Angelo, spurred on by his spirit of innovation.

Gaja masterclass: The wines

The wines Gaia poured for the masterclass told a story of the Gaja estate vineyards, Italy’s ability to craft wines of the highest quality, and her father Angelo’s tendency to buck conventional ways of doing things.

Gaja, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2020

Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda, Bolgheri, Tuscany 2020

Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2018

Gaja, Costa Russi, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sorì Tildìn, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco, Piedmont 2016

Gaja, Sperss, Barolo, Piedmont 1991

Gaja, Darmagi, Langhe, Piedmont 1982

Gaja, Gaia & Rey, Langhe, Piedmont 2002

Gaja, Alteni di Brassica, Langhe, Piedmont 1992

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines featured in this masterclass

Illustrations of tradition and innovation

We certainly saw examples of what Gaja is best known for in this selection. The flagship Barbaresco shows stylistic shifts, and the notion of needing to wait 10 years to approach the wines is a thing of the past. A juiciness belies Nebbiolo’s reputation as an austere, tannic wine unapproachable for years.

The two Tuscan wines demonstrated that Gaja is not only good at making timeless wines from Piedmont; there were some genuine surprises with the older vintages. Ca’Marcanda is an homage to the boulevard of Bolgheri, lined with 2,600 cypress trees planted over 150 years ago. The Brunello, Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina, has vineyards planted near the church it takes its name from, including a former cemetery from 1,400 years ago – as Gaia pointed out playfully, it’s not simply limestone that makes up the terroir here.

A trio of single-vineyard Barbaresco from the classic 2016 vintage showed the true heights that Gaja can reach in their historic appellation; a contrast in soils, aspect and temperature across their three most famous cru bottlings.

Sperss has become an iconic Barolo for Gaja. Angelo purchased the vineyard in 1988, an already well-known and historic vineyard in Serralunga. This example shows that even in the difficult-at-best 1991 vintage in Piedmont, the terroir and winemaking have created a wine that shines beautifully.

Darmagi shows the renowned rebellious nature of her father Angelo, who planted Cabernet Sauvignon below the house of the mayor of the village of Barbaresco – his father, Giovanni. The name Darmagi captured Giovanni’s reaction to the planting of Bordeaux varieties in his home region and translates to ‘what a shame.’

The 2002 Gaia & Rey may have been the surprise of the day. Planted in 1979, Angelo’s motivation was to show that great white wine could come from Piedmont. He then followed that with Sauvignon Blanc, for Alteni di Brassica. As climate change has impacted Piedmont, Gaja has looked to the Alta Langhe, planting Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc there as the original plantings have struggled in the face of rising temperatures.

The Gaja family has also begun an operation on Mount Etna, Sicily, in the last few years, working with Alberto Graci on their collaborative IDDA wines. Another demonstration that this family steeped in Piedmont tradition is always looking ahead.

Wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York:

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