When Ulster immigrant John Martin stopped at the Ruamāhanga River in 1875, near the southern tip of New Zealand’s North Island, it was wilderness.

Using gold-rush earnings, he laid out the streets of a village in the pattern of the union flag, naming it after himself: Martinborough.

Not much had changed in the region’s economy a century later, when in 1980 sheep and dairy farmer Clive Paton of Ata Rangi and three other growers first planted vines, at the suggestion of a government agronomist.

‘You’re basically on the road to nowhere here,’ says John Kavanagh, chief winemaker at Te Kairanga. It is cooler than across the Cook Strait in Marlborough, with very few days over 30℃ and big diurnal temperature swings. Rainfall is low.

Yet cold southerlies blow straight up from the Antarctic: grape yields are low, with the wind adversely affecting flowering and fruit set.

‘This has its pros and cons,’ says local wine writer and author Joelle Thomson. ‘Smaller crops and bunches reduce production but the Pinots from here seem to strut a deliciously savoury taste as a result.’

And so, in the space of 40 years, Martinborough has established itself as one of the world’s top sources of Pinot Noir.

Down to earth

The 1980s pioneers planted on the Martinborough terrace. This uplifted river terrace of alluvial gravels and clays, five kilometres long and a kilometre wide, remains the heart of the wine district.

‘The corporates never really got involved because there weren’t big enough tracts of land,’ says Guy McMaster, winemaker at Palliser Estate.

Then in 1999 Larry McKenna, founder of pioneer Martinborough Vineyard, planted on Te Muna Road, a few kilometres southeast of the town, an area of free-draining gravels.

The same year, Craggy Range planted 100ha of land there, a project of Australian-American millionaire Terry Peabody.

Since then, Martinborough’s scene has exploded, with wine tourism an important component. Today there are more than 20 cellar doors and an annual wine festival.

Clones and varieties

Given the relative lack of soil variation, clonal selection is especially important.

The first Pinot Noir plantings used the Abel clone, named for the customs officer said to have confiscated cuttings purloined from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s La Tâche vineyard.

It remains popular for Pinot Noir, though Dijon clones have since gained ground.

There is also excellent Chardonnay: ‘Martinborough Chardonnays have natural balance,’ says Martinborough Vineyard winemaker Tom Turner.

More recently, Sauvignon Blanc has inevitably made major inroads.

Perfect for Pinot

But Pinot Noir remains Martinborough’s speciality. ‘I definitely think there’s been the evolution of a style,’ says Ata Rangi winemaker Helen Masters.

‘Back [in the 1990s] the benchmark was Burgundy – high-toast new oak, three to five punch-downs a day – so a lot of the wines were monsters.’

Now, she says, they pick earlier, at 23 Brix, punch down much less, and use less new oak: ‘For me it’s a distraction from the place. The wines are more expressive, less extracted, lighter on their feet.’

While the best Martinborough Pinot Noirs can age well, they tend to be made ready to be enjoyed younger.

But while Martinborough has become a benchmark for New World Pinot Noir, it remains a challenging environment.

As Te Kairanga’s Kavanagh says: ‘To produce wine here, you need to be passionate about what you do.’

Six Martinborough names to know

Ata Rangi

Pioneer Clive Paton has retired now but Helen Masters, one of the few female New Zealand winemakers, has been in the cellar since 2003; she also grows some of the fruit on her own property.

Her trademark is elegant, structured and savoury Pinot Noirs. Despite Masters’ long experience here, her favourite vintage is 2024. ‘The wines were easy to make,’ she says. Certified organic.

Craggy Range

When Craggy Range first planted in the late 1990s, it doubled the size of Martinborough’s vineyards.

It remains the biggest producer, having added 132ha since then. Steve Smith MW, who established it, has moved on; today winemaker Ben Tombs vinifies this fruit at Craggy Range’s main base in Hawke’s Bay. Silky, elegant Pinot Noirs; a lot of Sauvignon Blanc too.

In organic conversion.

Dry River

One of the first group of pioneer wineries, Dry River was planted in 1979 by Neil McCallum.

It has always been a boutique producer, now producing an average of just 17,000 bottles a year.

Winemaker Ben McNab works with obsessive detail, washing the fruit before selecting berry by berry. These are fine, expressive Pinot Noirs, made to age.

Part certified organic.

Oraterra

Wilco Lam was a respected winemaker at Dry River before moving with the whole winemaking team to start Oraterra four years ago.

The operation still has the buzz of a start-up. They have 10ha planted – Pinot Noir plus Chardonnay and Pinot Gris – and an innovative approach.

‘It’s liberating if there’s no preconception of how the wine should be,’ says Lam.

Certified biodynamic.

Palliser

Palliser began in 1984 but now has 74ha of vineyards, making it one of the area’s largest producers.

Complex, elegant Pinot Noirs are its trademark, though it are also one of the few local wineries to make sparkling wines.

Chief winemaker Guy McMaster (ex-Escarpment) did a stage in Champagne in 2019. Impressive Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc too.

Certified organic.

Te Kairanga

Now owned by California’s Foley wines, Te Kairanga was first planted in 1984 on a bluff at the eastern edge of the Martinborough terrace.

With 95ha of vineyards, they are one of the larger producers at over 350,000 bottles a year. Slightly plusher Pinot Noirs.

They host one of the area’s biggest cellar door operations, including an impressive restaurant.

Top Martinborough wines

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A young winemaker couple: one Kiwi, one Australian, both born under the star sign Libra. Both had a deep love of Italy and shared a dream of making their own wine. Work had taken them around the globe, but a job in New Zealand called them home.

They lost no time in securing land and planted their dream vineyard. Unlike most people in New Zealand, they planted on a hill. They called their venture Bilancia – because it was the name of their star sign and what they aspired to in their wine: balance and harmony.

They called the Syrah-based wine they made from 2002 onwards La Collina, Italian for ‘little hill’, after the name of the vineyard. It has since become a New Zealand icon.

Tasting notes and scores from a vertical of La Collina listed below

The couple are Melbourne-born Lorraine Leheny and New Zealander Warren Gibson. They met at Roseworthy College in South Australia. Farmers’ son Gibson had no truck with his family’s dairy and orchard business, but knew wine was going to be his career.

Leheny had come to do a postgrad in wine after qualifying in food technology. They moved to Auckland together, but ‘for the next four years, he was everywhere but New Zealand’, Leheny jokes about her husband’s stints as flying winemaker in Hungary, Italy and Australia.

For a while, the couple worked together in Margaret River. ‘In mid-1995, Warren was offered the winemaking job at Trinity Hill in Hawke’s Bay [a position he holds to this day which won him and his wines many accolades] and we’d always said that if we were going to make wine in New Zealand, Hawke’s Bay would be the place,’ Leheny remembers.

Putting down roots

‘We came here in 1997 and this is where we have been ever since,’ she adds. They bought land in 1997 and started planting in 1998. However, this involved terracing the hill first and doing most work by hand – which continues to this day.

‘It is not so unusual,’ says Gibson about farming on hillsides. ‘But you can see why people don’t want to do it. As we become older, it becomes more difficult,’ he adds.

La Collina is planted on Roys Hill, a sandstone ridge with some limestone covered in clay. Facing north, it’s 80m higher than the surrounding flat land and the famous Gimblett Gravels that spread northwards from the hill towards the Ngaruroro River.

These are metre-deep deposits of incredibly well-drained gravel. But La Collina is different.

‘Realistically, the climate is the same in terms of temperature and rainfall,’ Gibson explains. ‘But the soil is completely different, the aspect is completely different and there is the wind. We are completely sheltered from the south, mostly the west, completely exposed to the north, protected from the east. Everything is different apart from temperature and rainfall. So soil, aspect and wind are the three things that distinguish La Collina,’ he adds.

Passion project

Gibson also prefers to talk of the number of vines rather than acreage, as the 4,500 Syrah vines are spaced more widely on the terraces. ‘Looking back, we probably wouldn’t have planted the vineyard, because it enslaved us for the past 25 years,’ he says with a straight face, as Leheny laughs at their folly.

‘Our son was born in January 1998,’ Leheny adds. ‘We came to Hawke’s Bay in 1997 and by the end of 1998, we had a business, a child, a vineyard. We had put much off, but we decided we are here now, this is what we’re going to do.’

They do not have to spell it out – you can see on their faces that their project was and still is hard work. They have no employees.

‘Part of accepting the job as winemaker at Trinity Hill was the deal that we would be able to use their facilities to make our own wine,’ continues Leheny. ‘We were very lucky in that regard.’ Bilancia wines are still made at that winery.

‘We have our own barrels, our own tanks,’ says Gibson. ‘Our own operating systems,’ adds Leheny. ‘It is run as a separate business as opposed to a contract facility. After 28 years it’s still working well, so there is no reason to change that.’

Future and past

Bilancia is, in effect, a little, self-financed boutique operation. When I ask the couple what the future holds for La Collina after 28 years on the land, Leheny responds. ‘Our plan is to continue. We don’t have any plans to stop making wine. We’re still working in the vineyard. Right now, we are looking forward to selling 2024 which is still in barrel.’

Going back in time, 2002 was the first vintage of La Collina released. ‘2002 was a good season and the vines were still young, but we felt it was time to get going,’ Gibson says. ‘We released it at NZ$80 which was quite a statement,’ he adds.

To warrant the quality of their flagship wine, the duo did not make it the following year. Indeed no Collina was made in 2003, 2011, 2012, 2017, 2022 and 2023 – sometimes due to frost, sometimes due to cyclones that batter the east coast of New Zealand in March and April when grapes are harvested.

The wines are all mostly Syrah-based, some of them have small additions of Viognier, some of Viognier and Mourvèdre. La Collina is sometimes fermented with whole bunches, while the length of oak ageing and the amount of new oak is determined each vintage afresh.

The wines below were tasted in a little pod overlooking La Collina in February 2024 with Gibson and Leheny. They showed what a special site for Syrah this is, what a legacy they created and how intuitive their approach is to expressing this site.

Bilancia vertical: Tasting notes

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Back in 1851 when Marist missionaries planted some of New Zealand’s first vines in Hawke’s Bay, they couldn’t have known what the area would become. But fast forward through decades of growth – as well as challenges ranging from earthquakes to cyclones – and the country’s second-largest wine region is now a tourism hotspot. Thirsty travellers seeking vinous exploration that balances diversity with world-class quality can sip their way through Chardonnays and Syrahs, Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs, at dozens of celebrated cellar doors. Most of them a mere grape’s toss from Breckenridge Lodge.

Overlooking a manicured patch of Chardonnay vines in the Omarunui Valley, Breckenridge Lodge was built by chef Malcolm Redmond in the early 2000s as a base in which to serve his hyper-local, hyper-seasonal cuisine. Twenty years later, with Malcolm’s American wife Ellie on side, the simple but effective formula – fabulous food, first-class wine and a relaxed ethos – remains very much in place at this intimate stay.

Culinary magic

What’s on your plate is central to every part of the Breckenridge Lodge experience. Malcolm’s own organic kitchen garden is the source of his culinary magic: just over a hectare bursting with everything from figs to passion fruit, plus a ramble of hundreds of native trees. Combining this bounty with meat and fish sourced from the wider region, Malcolm plates up daily five-course dinners featuring dishes like pan-fried snapper with cavolo nero sauce or crayfish and avocado roll with Chardonnay potato salad and rocket. What isn’t used in the kitchen goes into compost, ready for redeployment in the garden.

The cellar is no less considered. Malcolm and Ellie have amassed more than 2,000 bottles over the years and allow them to age before uncorking alongside dishes thoughtfully chosen to match. That means no matter how much local winery touring you do, you’ll always find surprises through older vintages and rare bottlings. For example, expect a pour of De La Terre Blanc de Blancs 2016 alongside that crayfish and avocado roll.

When you’re ready to explore the full breadth of the region’s vinous bounty, the Breckenridge team will happily arrange visits at any one of 30-plus local wineries within a 15-minute drive. Alternatively, team members can simply point you in the direction of their favourites, including The Urban Winery – where Tony Bish showcases his wines alongside other small producers such as Jenny Dobson – or the aforementioned De La Terre, which makes everything from Tannat to Montepulciano. Here winemaker and owner Tony Pritchard runs the tastings; follow up yours with a lunch from the pizza oven, overseen by his wife Kaye.

Or perhaps combine a history lesson with great tastings on a visit to some of the country’s oldest wineries. Te Mata Estate – known for its Bordeaux-style red blends – was founded in 1896, while Mission Estate dates all the way back to that first planting year, 1851.

Unwind and enjoy

In the rare moments when eating and drinking are not taking centre stage, homely Breckenridge provides a restorative space to unwind. Each of the five individual en-suite rooms, from taupe-hued ‘Coffee’ to floral print-splashed ‘Rose’ comes with heated floors, handmade wood furniture and toiletries made from the garden’s own lavender, lending a relaxed home-from-home air. And, of course, each comes with sweeping views out to those manicured vines, too.

With secluded paths winding through woodland and a pond that attracts around 30 different bird species including egrets and herons, the Breckenridge Lodge grounds provide plenty of reason to linger when you’re looking for a quiet afternoon.

Otherwise, for active exploration beyond the cellars, take to the 200km of regional cycling trails – Malcolm and Ellie will arrange bike hire for you – visit the local golf club a few miles away or hike up Te Mata peak. Or explore the self-proclaimed Art Deco capital of the world, Napier, bursting with sublime period architecture, and just a 15-minute drive away.

For further information, see the Breckenridge Lodge website.

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Selling your dairy herd to buy a vineyard may not raise too many eyebrows these days, but back in 1980 when Clive Paton purchased five barren, stony hectares to plant Pinot Noir near the tiny backwater farming town of Martinborough, New Zealand, it was positively bonkers.

Apart from Dry River Wines, established the year before (and an ill-fated venture started in 1978 by publisher Alister Taylor), there were no other vineyards in Martinborough, and quality wine production of any sort in New Zealand was nascent, to say the least. A government report published in 1978 had suggested Martinborough might be well suited to Burgundian varieties, but Paton and his sister Alison, who had bought an adjoining 2ha, were still taking a very big punt indeed in planting the first vines at Ata Rangi.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 21 Ata Rangi wines, including a mini vertical of Pinot Noir

Thankfully, there were soon a few other mad neighbours. Martinborough Vineyards, also planted in 1980, was followed by Chifney Estate (now part of Margrain) and Te Kairanga. In time, further producers slowly followed these bold pioneers. To this day, Wairarapa as a whole only produces 1% of New Zealand’s wine (itself less than 2% of global wine production), the majority of which is produced in Martinborough, but thanks to producers such as Ata Rangi, its 60-odd wineries have built an impressive international reputation that far eclipses its size.

These days, ‘Ata Rangi’ – ‘dawn sky’ or ‘new beginnings’ in the Māori language – farms about 32ha spread across 12 vineyards situated on the Martinborough Terrace, a swathe of 25m-30m deep alluvial gravels surrounding the still tiny but now thriving township. As well as the original Home Block vineyard – now 44 years old and planted to the local Abel clone – it owns seven other nearby vineyards, farms two others under long-term leases and sources fruit from winemaker Helen Masters’ vineyard and the Dara Vineyard, owned by Kim and Gordana Dara.

Family roots

Alongside Pinot Noir, there are plantings of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Ata Rangi first achieved full organic certification for two of its vineyards, McCrone and Home Block, in 2014, with the rest following soon after, and is also unusual in New Zealand in that a large percentage of its vines remain on their own roots. This is not without risk, but Paton feels the benefits of extra concentration and consistency they perceive in the fruit outweigh any additional phylloxera hazard potential.

Widely regarded as one of New Zealand’s best wineries, Ata Rangi’s stylish, complex Pinot Noirs have a solid track record for ageing beautifully. Its reputation is equally likely due to the charming, self-effacing nature of its people.

Paton – who married fellow winemaker Phyll Pattie in 1987 – and his sister Alison Paton remain at the helm. Helen Masters has just celebrated 20 years at the winery, and the vineyard team is overseen by former Villa Maria viticulturist Ian Ewart. It’s a tight-knit, humble group, with great respect for their land and a clear vision of what they want to produce from it.

In the Home and McCrone vineyards, weeds are managed using under-vine tools, combined with cultivation and mowing. ‘Our vineyards’ biodiversity is enhanced by a mixture of native and exotic shelter belts and inter-row wildflower planting that provide havens for native predatory and beneficial insects,’ explains Masters.

‘We make compost on site from grape stalks, skins and yeast lees, mixed with seaweed, forest floor duff and harvested green crops. This mix is utilised in the vineyard to make compost tea for vine health and boost organic matter within the soil. Our dedicated vineyard team does all the vine work by hand – from pruning in winter through to harvest in autumn.’

Martinborough and the Abel clone

Martinborough is a sub-region of the wider Wairarapa wine region, which also includes Gladstone and Masterton. The first vines, planted in 1883, fell victim to the temperance movement just a few decades later. Today, at 527ha (according to New Zealand Wine), Pinot Noir makes up about half the plantings in Wairarapa as a whole, another third are Sauvignon Blanc, followed by Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and 23 other varieties. The Martinborough sub-region enjoys cool, windy springs and warm, relatively dry summers, buffeted by strong southerly winds. Soils are deep, free-draining gravels, with a mixture of shallow sandy/clay loam topsoils.

The Martinborough Pinot Noir style is expressive, structured and savoury – the best are very ageworthy. Most plantings are of the Abel (‘gumboot’) clone – purported to be from an illicit cutting from one of Burgundy’s most famous vineyards [said to be Romanée Conti], hidden in a wellington boot and confiscated by customs officer Malcolm Abel. Abel, a winemaker himself, thankfully realised the cutting’s significance and sent it to be put through quarantine at Te Kauwhata, the then-government viticulture research station, and subsequently planted cuttings that resulted from this in his own small vineyard in Auckland (now long overrun by the city).

He died a few years later, but not before becoming friendly with Clive Paton, who worked a vintage with him and took cuttings of his own back to Ata Rangi, which became the vines of its Home Block. The Abel clone is now planted throughout New Zealand, but is arguably at its very best in Martinborough, Wairarapa.

Hands-off approach

In the cellar, by contrast, Masters says the biggest winemaking shift has been simply to do less and less. ‘The wines are made increasingly by the vines rather than in the winery. I am keen to not let winemaking get in front of the fruit.’ Chardonnay is whole-bunch pressed to larger barrels and undergoes natural ferments, with minimal stirring and sulphur additions, and new oak is kept to around 20%-30%.

She has a similarly hands-off approach to the Pinots, though since 2015 has gradually increased the whole-bunch percentage, appreciating the slower, cooler fermentation temperatures this delivers. The wines are prettier as a result, with more spice and better balance. Punchdowns [breaking up the cap of grape skins and other solids that forms on the surface of fermenting red wine and submerging it in the liquid below] have been swapped for more gentle plunging, aiding tannin management, an element the region’s Pinots can at times struggle to tame.

Martinborough’s position in a wide valley open to the south-southwest means the bracing southerlies that sweep in from the Cook Strait naturally reduce yields and disease pressure, and thicken grape skins. The resulting phenolics give its Pinots a structured, savoury, smoky/earthy expression unique in the New Zealand style spectrum. The best have a very satisfying ageworthiness and presence.

The Ata Rangi vineyards

Kotinga vineyard

Established in 2000; 4ha, of which 3.2ha planted on free-draining alluvial gravels, no clay influence. Planted with three Dijon clones. Ata Rangi took over the vineyard in 2015, and purchased it in 2017; it was certified organic in 2018. The first single-vineyard release was the 2020.

Masters vineyard

Planted in 2001, the vineyard has provided fruit for Ata Rangi since 2007. It was purchased and renamed by winemaker Helen Masters and her husband Ben in 2015. Located 4km south of the township; 2.5ha of gravels with well-mixed clays. Fruit ripens about one or two weeks later than other Ata Rangi sites. Planted to Pinot Noir (Abel, Pommard and Dijon clones) and Chardonnay (Mendoza and 15); certified organic in 2020 – the year of the first single-vineyard release.

McCrone vineyard

Planted in 2001 with a mix of Abel, Dijon and Clone 5 Pinot Noir clones. Gravels mixed with clay from ridges on either side of the vineyard. Purchased in 2012 and certified organic in 2014. The first single vineyard release was the 2006; there will be no 2021 due to frost.

Retrospective

In late 2022, Ata Rangi celebrated the opening of its beautiful new tasting room (which won an award from the Te Kāhui Whaihanga New Zealand Institute of Architects), nestled in the Home vineyard, with a thrilling tasting of 31 wines, encompassing a retrospective of every Pinot Noir release back to 1994, plus the 2020 single-vineyard bottlings.

Wines were poured from magnums, with vintages missing from the Ata Rangi cellar kindly donated by a local collector. It was a fascinating opportunity to observe both the subtle evolution of the wines as the vineyards and team have matured, and the strong house style that has emerged over time.

The release of two new single-vineyard Pinots, from the Kotinga and Masters vineyards, represents another step along the road – one that Masters sees as necessary for the region if it’s to start showcasing and underscoring its differences in terroir. This is especially interesting in a region such as Martinborough where the minuscule size of most producers means that there’s little scope for such delineation – most have only just enough wine for one Pinot produced off their home block.

Ata Rangi itself faces a tricky supply/demand balance. ‘We just don’t have the supply,’ says Masters. ‘2021, 2022 and 2023 were all way below what we needed.’ Collectors take note.

Tasting nearly three decades’ worth of past Ata Rangi wines, it’s exciting to think about what the future holds. Masters sums up: ‘We are eccentric here, but we make wines we love.’ Long may that continue.

Ata Rangi: Emma Jenkins MW reviews 21 wines

Wines are listed white then red in descending score order 

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Hawke’s Bay, including the twin cities of Napier and Hastings, has become the world’s 12th ‘great wine capital’, joining an elite group that already encompasses the prestigious vineyard regions of Mendoza, Napa Valley and Bordeaux, among others.

Founded in 1999 to help promote and sustain wine-related industries and tourism, the Great Wine Capitals Global Network has a stringent selection process.

A region’s wine growing industry, history, wine tourism experiences and educational opportunities are just some of the factors taken into consideration.

Hamish Saxton, CEO of Hawke’s Bay Tourism, which led the region’s bid on behalf of several other groups, said the area’s new status is a major milestone.

‘It is recognition that Hawke’s Bay wines are among the world’s best and that our nation’s wine growing industry, while still young, offers quality to rival the world’s oldest,’ he said.

‘It is a true legacy for the region and will continue to deliver benefits to industry, education, business and tourism for the years to come,’ he added.

Vineyards were first planted in Hawke’s Bay in 1851 by Marist missionaries.

Today, there are more than 200 vineyards, 125 wine producers and more than 30 cellar doors, which have helped to make the region highly regarded for a range of premium wine styles, including Chardonnay, aromatic whites, red blends and top Syrah.

Charlotte Read, general manager for marketing at industry body New Zealand Winegrowers, said recognition for Hawke’s Bay as a great wine capital was a proud moment for the region and also an exciting time for tourism in the country.

‘This achievement is not only a recognition of Hawke’s Bay’s successes, but a catalyst for further growth in wine tourism, putting Hawke’s Bay, and New Zealand, firmly on the world stage as a must-visit destination for wine lovers,’ Read said.

New Zealand Winegrowers supported the Hawke’s Bay bid, and it also said that the region’s plethora of wine styles are matched by the area’s varied landscapes, from mountain peaks to coastal cliffs, plains and valleys.

The other 11 cities / regions in the Great Wine Capitals Network are:

• Adelaide, South Australia
• Bilbao, Rioja
• Bordeaux
• Cape Town, Cape Winelands
• Lausanne
• Mainz, Rheinhessen
• Mendoza
• Porto
• San Francisco, Napa Valley
• Valparaiso, Casablanca Valley
• Verona

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Last week, Cyclone Gabrielle ripped through the North Island and left a trail of destruction in its wake. Eleven people were killed, dozens more were injured and around 10,000 were left homeless, according to early estimates.

Prime minister Chris Hipkins called it the country’s ‘biggest natural disaster’ of the 21st century, and damages are estimated at NZ$13bn (£6.7 bn).

Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne are New Zealand’s second and third largest wine producing regions respectively, yielding a combined 60,000 tonnes in 2022 and accounting for 12% of the vintage.

The cyclone hit at the worst possible time, as growers in the regions were gearing up for the 2023 harvest.

Vineyards were left completely submerged by water and wineries were flooded, while landslides compounded the misery for producers.

Many vineyards are still flooded, but winegrowers that were not significantly impacted have started one of the most challenging harvests in recent memory.

Communications from Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne have now been reinstated, allowing industry leaders to form an early picture of the extent of the damage.

Philip Gregan, CEO at trade body New Zealand Winegrowers, told Decanter: ‘Cyclone Gabrielle has occurred on the cusp of what is already the busiest time of year for the industry, just as the 2023 vintage is about to begin, and so it is a major blow for the growers and wineries that have been impacted.

‘The impact of Cyclone Gabrielle, and the extent of the damage to vineyards in flooded areas in the North Island, is still being assessed.

‘Our industry’s most important priority continues to be ensuring that our people and our communities are safe, and we are working with our regional associations to assess how we can support impacted regions for the upcoming harvest, and beyond.

‘As the varied extent of the damage in flooded regions becomes clearer, many winegrowers who have not been significantly affected in these areas are moving from the initial phase of response, and are beginning harvest.

‘Dry and sunny weather will be needed going forward to mitigate some of the short-term damage on this year’s vintage, and the lack of water and power in these regions is a significant concern, but this is improving.’

The industry has had to overcome a series of challenges in recent years, including the Covid-19 pandemic, and Gregan said producers have emerged resilient, strong and determined.

‘The ongoing challenges over the past few years have proven the resilience and adaptability of the New Zealand wine community, and the impact of Cyclone Gabrielle has been met with the same strength and determination,’ he said.

Anecdotal reports suggest that 13ha under vine were washed out to sea, after waves as high as 11 metres washed over some coasts.

However, those reports have not been confirmed, and it is too early to assess the long-term impact to the region’s vineyards in the wake of Cyclone Gabrielle.

Yet politicians and professors have warned that New Zealand must improve its infrastructure to combat future natural disasters.

‘I don’t think I’ve ever felt as sad or as angry about the lost decades that we spent bickering and arguing about whether climate change was real or not, whether it was caused by humans or not, whether it was bad or not, whether we should do something about it or not, because it is clearly here now, and if we do not act, it will get worse,’ James Shaw, the country’s climate change minister, told parliament in the wake of the cyclone.

Authorities declared a national state of emergency for just the third time, following the 2011 Christchurch earthquake and the Covid-19 pandemic. The cyclone hit the North Island just two weeks after record downpours and flooding affected the same region.

Māori sociologist Christine Kenney, a professor of disaster risk reduction at Massey University in Wellington, said: ‘Two-thirds of New Zealanders live in areas prone to flooding and rising sea levels. We’ve got five airports that are going to be impacted, several thousand kilometres of roading, kilometres of railway.

‘New Zealand’s wine industry is going to be absolutely devastated, and this is just one storm.

‘We need to be thinking really seriously now about not building back better but building back smarter, and where we build back.’

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The story of Esk Valley and The Terraces label begins in 1933 when Robert Bird established Glenvale Winery & Cellars at Bay View in the north of Hawke’s Bay.

Producing mainly Port and Sherry wines, Bird built a successful business sourcing grapes from growers around the region as well as from his own site. This included a steep, north-facing, terraced vineyard that he planted in the 1940s.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores from an exclusive vertical of 12 vintages of Esk Valley’s The Terraces

However the yields and cost of production became prohibitive. So Bird decommissioned the vineyard and replanted it with pine trees.

When the third generation of the Bird family inherited the company, they started making small quantities of varietal wine using Esk Valley as a new brand name. With a market shifting into table wines, the potential for wine production grew.

In 1986 Sir George Fistonich (who founded Villa Maria in 1961) purchased the Glenvale land and assets after it fell into receivership. Sir George transformed the company away from fortified production into boutique table wine solely under the Esk Valley name and, in 1988, made the decision to resurrect the former terraced vineyard.

The pines were felled, the terraces reformed and, in 1989, the 1ha vineyard was planted to Malbec, Merlot and Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. With its north-facing aspect and mix of limestone, volcanic ash, clay and shell deposits, it is a unique site.

(In August, New Zealand’s largest contract winemaker, Indevin, announced it would acquire Villa Maria Estates. Villa Maria’s parent company, FFML, went into receivership in May 2021.)

Heipipi: the pinnacle of Esk Valley

While long known as just The Terraces, from the 2013 vintage (including on bottle labels) this organically managed, dry-farmed and low-yielding vineyard has been referred to as Heipipi.

This is the Te Reo Mãori name for the top of the hill where the vineyards lie, and where a Pa (hilltop fortress) sat atop the terraces for more than 400 years. The Terraces is now the name of this iconic single-vineyard cuvée, with its second-label – The Hillside – also sourced from Heipipi.

‘Heipipi is a grand amphitheatre and the pinnacle of what we do,’ says head winemaker Gordon Russell. ’It never fails to impress and showcase what a grand site it is. It’s also still in good health which allows us to maximise the benefit of what are now old vines.’

Russell joined the Villa Maria team in 1988 as a cellarhand, working with then chief winemaker Kym Milne MW. When an assistant winemaker position came up at Esk Valley (one of several brands in the Villa Maria portfolio), Russell moved to Hawke’s Bay in late 1989 to take up the role, under then head winemaker Grant Edmonds.

Russell was responsible for The Terraces from 1992, its second vintage, and became head of winemaking in 1993.

Making wine at Esk Valley presented Russell with a slew of new challenges. Not least of which was using concrete fermenters with no temperature control. But he soon learned this kind of treatment contributed subtle differences and complexities in each ferment.

‘The whole progression of winemaking for The Terraces aims to capture the grandeur and uniqueness of the site in bottle. When you taste the wine you are literally tasting the place,’ says Russell.

The Terraces: from grape to glass

The Terraces collection is something special. Tasting through 12 vintages reveals a consistent quality, timeline and rare look into the influences of vine age, vintage and climate from the very first 1991 vintage to the current 2018 release.

Fruit is hand harvested on one day, then sorted, destemmed and lightly crushed into a single open-topped concrete fermenter. Hand plunging gives full extraction of colour and tannin, and maturation is in new and one-year-old French barrels. It is racked as needed, then bottled after 17 to 22 months, depending on the vintage.

While the inaugural 1991 vintage was a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, from 2002 Russell dropped the Cabernet Sauvignon. He harvests the remaining three varieties (Malbec dominant since 2002) as a field blend and co-ferments them. Recent vintages make use of wild yeast and the wine is bottled without either fining or filtration.

The Terraces: 12 vintages of Esk Valley’s top Hawke’s Bay red

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Gimblett Gravels 2018: Assessing the vintage

While we might think of the Gimblett Gravels as a sub-region of New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay, it actually has no specific geographic indication or appellation status.

Gimblett Gravels is in fact a brand name. It was formed by winegrowers who own the 850 hectares of vines in this district, all planted on what is a very distinct terroir.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the 12 wines from the 2018 Gimblett Gravels selection

The Ngaruroro River laid down these famous gravels. It once flowed through the region, but changed course after a massive flood in 1867, exposing the alluvial deposits.

Vines were first planted in 1981 by CJ Pask, but the industry didn’t take off until a decade later. In 1992 just 20ha was under vine; by 1998 it was 200ha and today it is 850ha.

The Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association (GGWA) was set up in 2001 and comprises about 30 paying members. They can put ‘Gimblett Gravels’ on wine labels if a minimum of 95% of their grapes come from the district.

Red grapes comprise 90% of plantings, currently led by Merlot (about 35%), followed by Syrah (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Malbec (7%) and Cabernet Franc (4%).

However Warren Gibson of Trinity Hill says Syrah and the two Cabernets are increasingly becoming more important as growers realise that Merlot has less affinity with the stony, gravelly soils.

The 2018 vintage

Recently, Decanter joined Gibson and Master of Wine Rebecca Gibb on a virtual tasting of the 12 reds from 2018 chosen for the Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection.

For the past 11 years, the GGWA has asked Master of Wine Andrew Caillard to pick 12 wines he feels best represents the region that harvest.

From the 2018 vintage, Caillard – co-founder of Australian wine auction house Langton’s – chose six Bordeaux blends and six Syrahs.

Following a mild, frost-free spring and warm, dry end to 2017, a scorching January made 2018 the hottest summer since records began in 1935.

The biggest challenge for growers was the high humidity and disease pressure just before harvest, following heavy rainfall in mid March.

Gibson, who has worked 25 harvests in Gimblett Gravels, said 2018 was a vintage of two halves. If growers got to 1 April, disease pressures dropped with overnight temperatures, and grapes could be picked at optimal ripeness.

Merlot suffered in the humidity, but Cabernet with its thick skins held strong. Those who took a punt and picked Syrah late were rewarded.

Gibson said while 2018 was a ‘very very good’ vintage, wine lovers should look out for what’s to come.

‘I know it’s a classic winemaker statement, but 2019 and 2020 are even better,’ he said. ‘We’ve had three great seasons in a row; it will be an argument in time as to which is better.’

See the tasting notes and scores for the 2018 Gimblett Gravels vintage selection:

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Driving through Napier, a roadside billboard sported a glass of Tui beer alongside the slogan 'Pinot Nah'...

It was clever but flawed: when global advertising moguls Saatchi & Saatchi came up with the brewery campaign targeted at the Hawke’s Bay, they clearly hadn’t researched the varieties in the region – this is a land that has long said ‘nah’ to Pinot Noir in favour of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

And that’s what you can expect from Hawke’s Bay’s Gimblett Gravels, a former river bed which is now home to prime vineyard land that you couldn’t give away 40 years ago.

The Annual Vintage Selection is a 12-bottle case of wines picked by Sydney-based Master of Wine Andrew Caillard to reflect the best of the season in Gimblett Gravels.

The 2016 vintage marks the ninth release in the series, which has provided a useful benchmark for charting the course of the vintages and the area’s evolution.

Gimblett Gravels 2016

The 2016 season took its time to get going but after a cool, late spring it was a case of better late than never. The summer hit its stride in January and the warmth kept on coming well into March, making 2016 one of the warmest in the past decade – on the heat summation scale it’s on a par with 2014 and 2009.

But let’s not get too excited: 1,430 Growing Degree Days (GDD) is still below the long-term average in this sometimes-marginal Cabernet climate – taste the cool 2012 vintage if you need liquid evidence.

In a global context, Gimblett Gravels’ heat summation over the season is closer to Bordeaux’s 1,387 rather than Napa Valley’s 1,883 GDD*.

Cabernet-Merlot blends came into their own in 2016, with Syrah making up just four of the 12 wines in the case – in 2012, there were seven. The wines in the case give an impression of elegance and freshness, mid-weight wines with a spine of mouthwatering acidity and abundant, ripe tannins.

Oak is also increasingly well handled, although there’s always room for improvement.

There’s a good diversity of blends (with Malbec and Cabernet Franc making a substantial contribution in some cuvées), and inevitably there is variation in quality but from this snapshot, 2016 would appear to be a much more successful Cabernet year for the Gravels than the unsettled 2015 season.

Ageability

It’s challenging to predict the drinking windows of these wines: unlike Bordeaux and the Rhône, there’s no historical precedent for wines made from vines of this age on the Gimblett Gravels.

An educated stab would suggest leaving the best Bordeaux blends until they’re at least four years old, and enjoy them over the following decade or more.

The Syrahs can be enjoyed from three to eight years old without any concerns, particularly when they’re sealed under screwcap.

Ultimately it’s your decision when to open these wines, but there’s never been a better time to go beyond New Zealand Pinot Noir and discover its other reds.

*Source: Anderson, J.D., et.al, 2012. Analysis of Viticulture region climate structure and suitability in New Zealand. J. Int. Sci. Vigne Vin, 46, n°3, 149-165

Tasting the Gimblett Gravels 2016 Annual Vintage Selection:

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Hawke’s Bay: Beyond Gimblett Gravels

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There’s a lot more to Hawke’s Bay than Gimblett Gravels – but is further sub-regionality justified? Oliver Styles looks at the cases for and against...

Talk to almost any winemaker in New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay and they are convinced that sub-regionality exists. As Mike Henley, chairman of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, points out, the Gimblett Gravels – the established sub-region par excellence – is better known than its parent area in some parts of the US. But the Gravels has several things going for it: the soil type is reasonably unique; it is easily delineated (more or less within two roads and a riverbank); and it has several heavyweight companies behind it, including Craggy Range and Villa Maria.

Scroll down for Olivier Style’s top 10 sub-regional stars from Hawke’s Bay

Yet the sub-regional story seems to have stopped there. Since the success of the Gimblett Gravels Association, only two other regions have been officially drawn up: the Bridge Pa Triangle and the Te Mata Special Character Zone. But is there a case to be made for examining sub-regionality across the whole region?

Hawke’s Bay: the facts

Area under vine: Over 4,700ha; New Zealand’s second largest wine region and its largest premium red wine producing region

Wineries: 76 wineries and 71 growers

Yield: Most wineries produce less than 200,000 litres per annum

Grape varieties: 28% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Merlot- Cabernet, 21% Chardonnay, 12% Pinot Gris, 7% Pinot Noir, 4% Syrah

Hawke’s Bay: the sub-regions

This list is arranged alphabetically; see map above for geographical locations.

Bridge Pa Triangle

Often seen in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour Gimblett Gravels, the Bridge Pa district produces plusher, more succulent and generally more approachable reds than the Gravels, often with just as much muscle. Villa Maria’s Keltern vineyard is counted as part of this region although it is further inland and cooler. Top producers: Paritua, Redmetal, Sileni, Church Road, Matua, Alpha Domus, Ash Ridge.

Coastal (Te Awanga, Bay View)

Heavily influenced by the sea with a cooler but moderated climate, longer growing season and later ripening. Most vineyards closest to the ocean will be planted with predominantly white varieties, although vineyards further inland can produce surprising reds, depending on aspect. Top producers on the coast: Clearview, Craggy Range (Kidnappers Chardonnay), Elephant Hill, Te Awanga Estate, Beach House. At Bay View: Crab Farm and Esk Valley (the latter’s Winemaker’s Reserve Chardonnay is regularly from here).

Esk Valley

Alluvial soils with a relatively coastal climate, Esk Valley is home to a handful of growers. Top producers include: Petane Station and Linden Estate.

Gimblett Gravels

Well-defined, heavily protected (it is a trademark) and with rigorous standards. Young alluvial soils; very hot in summer. Can be affected by late rains. Wines are generally well-structured (sometimes austere) Bordeaux blends and Syrah. Some whites. Top producers: Sacred Hill, Trinity Hill, Craggy Range, Villa Maria, Te Awa, Vidal, Esk Valley, Church Road, Mission Estate, Stonecroft, Element Wines, Beach House.

Hillside Hawke’s Bay

Some of the most interesting, if not profound, wines are produced on the hillside sites around the region. Bilancia’s La Collina S Ash Ridge yrah and Esk Valley’s The Terraces are reference points and are rightly sought after. Other great producers include Hopes Grove (excellent Syrah and Viognier in particular), Supernatural Wine Co (although this could be considered Coastal), De La Terre, Te Mata and Black Barn (the latter three have vineyards in the Te Mata Special Character Zone, itself a potential sub-region).

Mangatahi, Crownthorpe, Matapiro

One step further inland from Bridge Pa, although vineyards can be found on both sides of the river for some distance. Similar soils to Bridge Pa but with more elevation and significantly cooler. Fresh, classy whites and some good Pinot Noir. Top producers: Sileni, Easthope Family Winegrowers, Church Road, Rod McDonald Wines, Smith & Sheth (its CRU Chardonnay is worth seeking out).

Tukituki

Can overlap with Coastal as this river enters the sea just north of Te Awanga; most growers are situated between the Havelock Hills and the coast. Heavier soils due to the nature of the river, but a cooler aspect than more inland sites and varying terrace heights. Recent years of Church Road’s prestige Tom Chardonnay (the fantastic 2014 in particular) have come from this region. Other producers include Ant McKenzie Wines, Indevin, Akarangi, Askerne, Black Barn and Dolce Vista.

Tutaekuri Valley (Dartmoor, Woodthorpe)

Similar soils to the Ngaruroro and, depending on location, will also be either young alluvial or older terraced alluvial soils. However, the higher limestone content of the Tutaekuri river system will have some effect. Soil expert Keith Vincent draws some parallels with Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. Sacred Hill has extensive vineyard holdings in this area. Other top producers include Te Mata Estate and Matua.

NB: Central Hawke’s Bay is a separate Geographical Indicator to Hawke’s Bay. Its scattered producers fell outside the scope of this article.

Church Road winemaker Chris Scott certainly thinks so. ‘Put South Australia over a map of Hawke’s Bay,’ he says, ‘and Adelaide Hills, Eden Valley and Barossa Valley would fit into it. You can be in Gimblett Gravels or Bridge Pa and the temperature on a summer’s day is 30°-32°C, then drive out to Tukituki and it’s 26°C or 27°C. Added to which there’s the differences in soil type…’

Down to earth

What of those soils? Keith Vincent, an expert in soil science, is reluctant to generalise, but broadly speaking there are three soil types in the region: young alluvial (recently repurposed riverbed, such as the Gimblett Gravels); old alluvial (terraced riverbed with ‘ancient, well-developed sandy-silt’ build-up, such as Bridge Pa, Mangatahi and Crownthorpe); and hillside soils (sites are dotted around the Bay, but generally loess over limestone).

There are, of course, variations both between the different river systems and within zones. Alluvial soils around the Tukituki River, Vincent posits, would likely be heavier given a higher incidence of clay and silt in the watershed. This would potentially extend out to coastal vineyard sites at Te Awanga, although the winemakers I talked to there agree that soils vary quite significantly, from Gimblett-like gravel-shingle in sections of Clearview to heavier soils such as the clay-loam in Craggy Range’s Kidnappers Vineyard. Vincent would also expect more limestone content in sites around the Tutaekuri River (Dartmoor, Woodthorpe) due to the nature of the river.

But while soils play a role in sub-regionality, other factors are also involved. ‘Climate, elevation and distance from the ocean are determinate,’ explains Steve Smith MW. ‘Look at Bridge Pa and Mangatahi,’ he suggests, pointing out the proximity of these two areas and similarity in soil type. ‘Mangatahi is three weeks later [in the growing season] because it’s a much cooler site.’

Distilling all this leaves us with about eight sub-regions in Hawke’s Bay. From north to south these are: Esk Valley; Tutaekuri (Dartmoor, Woodthorpe and other sites on young and old alluvial soils); Gimblett Gravels (young alluvial Ngaruroro soils); Bridge Pa (old alluvial Ngaruroro soils); Upper Ngaruroro (old alluvial soils with greater elevation and cooler climates, encompassing Mangatahi, Crownthorpe and Matapiro); Tukituki Valley (heavier old and young alluvial soils); Te Awanga (coastal sites of varying aspect and soil type); plus hillside sites dotted throughout the region.

Help or hinder?

But how useful are these sub-regions in the broader context of taking the Hawke’s Bay story to the wider world? Indeed, is this a story the wineries even want to tell? Henley worries that the sub-regional story may ‘muddy the waters’ and most winemakers I spoke to – including Scott at Church Road and Damian Fischer at Trinity Hill – understand this.

What’s more, many Hawke’s Bay wines are blends across sub-regions. Vidal’s Legacy Chardonnay – a Decanter World Wine Awards International Trophy winner – is often a blend of three sites: Keltern, Ohiti (over the river from Bridge Pa Triangle) and Lyons (Gimblett Gravels). Furthermore, as Vidal winemaker Hugh Crichton points out: ‘It’s one thing having sub-regionality and another thing having the consumer – and even some trade – understand it.’

Minimal attention is given to sub-regionality in the main wine competition of Hawke’s Bay, the Agricultural & Pastoral Awards, which judges the best Chardonnay, Syrah and Pinot Noir of the region. ‘There was not one mention of sub-regionality,’ notes visiting judge and Marlborough winemaker Nat Christensen.

Story telling

To add further complexity, winemaker Rod McDonald points out that a significant proportion of plant material is currently planted in the wrong place. Futhermore, it’s clear that viticultural practices (sprays, yield, picking date and so on) as well as winemaking can often outweigh characteristics of terroir. Chardonnay is the prime example. Even single-vineyard wines such as Villa Maria’s Reserve Keltern Chardonnay can go from the sublime (2014) to the reductive (2016).

Such variations, and the range of wines made in the region, put Hawke’s Bay in a bit of a bind, foiling attempts to simplify the message. But for many, sub-regionality is still an issue worth talking about. Grant Edmonds at Redmetal Vineyards says: ‘Marlborough and Central Otago are a one-horse race… Hawke’s Bay has never made it to that. [Sub-regionality] is the only way we can tell our story.’

And how might it do that? Smith points to Oregon as a possible model for Hawke’s Bay. ‘When a lot of smaller AVAs split off from their parent body they found that for smaller, unknown AVAs it was always better to have both regions on the label. It won’t create confusion if the two names are together.’ Henley agrees: ‘It will assist the story.’

Oliver Styles is a wine writer and winemaker based in New Zealand

See Olivier Style’s top 10 sub-regional stars from Hawke’s Bay

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Hawke’s Bay travel guide

More than a million tourists make their way to this sunny wine region on New Zealand’s North Island each year, where three dozen cellar doors and over 200 vineyards await exploration by foot, bike or car.

What to do

Explore the cellar doors

As New Zealand’s oldest and second-largest wine region, Hawke’s Bay is a hotbed for wine tourism. With 76 wineries and counting, you could spend over a month wine tasting in Hawke’s Bay. Stretching from Esk Valley and Bayview in the north down to Central Hawke’s Bay further inland to the south, the wine region covers roughly 50km x 30km. However, if you only have a weekend, head for the top names that have helped put this wine region on the map.

Hastings, Havelock Hills & Te Awanga

Start your tour at Te Mata, one of New Zealand’s oldest wineries. Te Mata was founded in 1896 yet is still very much on top of its game – its top blend Coleraine is one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed Fine Wines. Try the estate’s extensive range, including library vintages, and book a VIP tasting to taste Coleraine in the cellar.

While in the Havelock Hills area, hop over to Black Barn Vineyards which is a local favourite for its laid-back charm, country kitchen, regular live music and Saturday growers’ market in the summer. Other nearby highlights are the modern cellars and jaw-dropping view of Te Mata Peak and award-winning Terroir restaurant at Craggy Range.

Heading coastward visit the striking sub-region of Te Awanga where seaside views don’t come much better. Elephant Hill sits in a prime position with a stylish restaurant overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Kidnapper Cliffs. Nearby Clearview Estate also has a busy cellar door and a restaurant with live music every Friday in the summer.

Gimblett Gravels & Bridge Pa

Head further inland on your wine tasting tour to Gimblett Gravels, one of Hawke’s Bay’s most promising sub-regions where a dry riverbed offers well-draining and warm soils to produce characterful reds. Trinity Hill is one of the pioneers of Gimblett Gravels and its cellar door is a good opportunity to try not only the famous Syrah and Bordeaux blends of the region but also oddball grapes for New Zealand such as Montepulciano, Tempranillo, Marsanne and Touriga Nacional.

Stonecroft is another pioneer, in fact the pioneer, of Gimblett Gravels and Te Awa is a sought-after lunch spot in the gravels serving local cuisine daily. Just beyond Gimblett Gravels is the Bridge Pa triangle where you’ll find a handful of cellar doors that hold a wine festival in mid-January.

If you still have a thirst for more, head north towards Napier where well-known wineries in the Taradale region beckon. Mission Estate established in 1851, considers itself the birthplace of New Zealand wine; and other popular cellar doors include Moana Park and Church Road, which also boasts one of the best restaurants in the region.

Wine tasting is on the menu all year round but you’ll also find special wine, music and gastronomy festivals throughout the year including a classical music series, blues festival, an art deco weekend and an oyster festival.

Explore the great outdoors

The sunny climate of Hawke’s Bay makes it ideal for outdoor adventure. Hiking or cycling Te Mata Peak is a rite of passage for anyone visiting Hawke’s Bay. This large rocky peak is known as the ‘sleeping giant’ as Maori legend says it is the corpse of a giant who had fallen in love with the daughter of a rival tribe’s leader. The giant died in his attempt to eat through the mountains to be united with his love, leaving his broken remains as a 399m rocky outcrop.

You can do a cultural tour of the Peak with a Maori elder, or you may feel comfortable climbing up the star-crossed lover’s remains unaccompanied. The Te Mata Park offers unparalleled views across the bay with exhilarating climbs, Redwood forest hikes and cross-country cycling. Other outdoor highlights include visiting Waimarama Beach, the swimming hole at Maraetotara Falls or a round of golf at Cape Kidnappers.

Where to stay

Napier, which was entirely rebuilt after the 1931 earthquake and has been immortalised in the art deco style of the time, boasts some stylish city hotels. However, wine lovers might want to indulge in accommodation among the vines.

Craggy Range has a village of private vineyard cottages dotted around its estate, at the centre of which lies a four-bedroom luxury lodge with stunning views of Te Mata Peak, with the vineyards and riverbed below. Lodge guests can take a dip in the outdoor pool overlooking Tukituki river, enjoy a privately catered meal in the open-plan dining and living room, or stargaze by the large outdoor fireplace.

Other excellent vineyard accommodation includes the lodges at Black Barn and Elephant Hill.

When to go

Hawke’s Bay’s temperate maritime climate with mild winters and warm summers make it an appealing destination all year round. The flurry of festivals takes place in summer and autumn (November-April).

Fly to: Napier/Hastings airport is in the heart of Hawke’s Bay and Air New Zealand operates daily flights from Wellington, Christchurch and Auckland (with international connections). You can also add Hawke’s Bay onto a road trip around the North Island.

Top tip: Most cellar doors will pour you wine without a reservation but if you want a tour or VIP tasting, book ahead. Hawke’s Bay gets particularly busy at the weekends when large groups pour in.

More wine travel guides here. 

Bob Campbell MW was one of the lucky few to attend a 32-vintage tasting of Coleraine recently - twice! Read his report below, including ratings and tasting notes on his top 15 vintages of this New Zealand pioneer...

Te Mata’s Coleraine is arguably New Zealand’s most prestigious wine.

In 1982, as the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes were being harvested for Coleraine’s first vintage, there was a general feeling among winemakers and wine drinkers alike that, while New Zealand might make decent white wines, the climate was simply too cool to produce good red wine.

That all changed when Coleraine hit the market.

Scroll down to see Bob’s top 15 picks from the historical vertical

No one, with the obvious exception of founder John Buck, had dreamed that such a wine could be made from New Zealand grapes.An inky red with intense, ripe cassis and cedar flavours, it demonstrated what could be achieved through careful site selection and restrained cropping levels.

Coleraine did for Hawke’s Bay Bordeaux blends what Cloudy Bay later did for Marlborough Sauvignon, dramatically raising the bar for red wine in New Zealand.

The tasting

Air New Zealand, the country’s national airline, is an active supporter of New Zealand wine. They recently purchased four complete sets of Te Mata Coleraine and subsequently opened them at tastings in Melbourne, Sydney, Auckland, and at the Te Mata estate in Hawke’s Bay.

I was fortunate enough to attend two of these tastings, in Auckland and Hawke’s Bay. Each tasting featured 32 wines, ranging from 1982 to 2016 (Coleraine was not produced in 1992, 1993 or 2012).

The second set, tasted in Hawke’s Bay, was clearly in better condition than the first. Fill levels suggested that the wines from the second set had benefitted from better storage. Wines in the second set (but not the first) had been opened, tasted and topped up or replaced by Te Mata winemaker, Peter Cowley. My tasting comments are based on wines from the second set.

My top three wines, for rather different reasons, were from the 1982, 1998 and 2014 vintages. The least attractive wines were 1984, 1988 and 2011, all from challenging vintages in Hawke’s Bay.

When to drink

For current drinking I would be happy to open any vintage prior to 2013. With careful storage and a good cork, Coleraine will survive for three decades or more. My optimum window is from 10 to 20 years.

Continue reading below

Te Mata Coleraine: Factbox

First vintage 1982

Vineyards A selection from a total of 45ha of estate vineyards from the Havelock Hills and Heretaunga Plains, Hawke’s Bay

Soil types Coleraine’s core is always off the Havelock Hills, with windblown loess soils over volcanic silica on a sandstone base. Additional contributions come from sites on the Heretaunga plains. These have ‘red metal’ soils – a sandy loam layer high in iron over deep gravels.

Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc

Annual production 60,000 bottles

More on Te Mata

Written by Andy Howard MW for a Decanter.com article originally published in October 2016

Located in the Hawkes Bay area, on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, the Te Mata estate today comprises the original historical plantings in the Havelock Hills and, in addition, the Woodthorpe Terraces to the east of Napier and the Bridge Pa Triangle – one of the warmest sites in the Hawkes Bay.

Coleraine, a classic Bordeaux style red, has been the estate’s top wine since it was first produced in 1982.

At its inception, Coleraine honoured classed growth Bordeaux with a blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, supported by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Extensive maturation in new French oak, great finesse and the ability to age are all hallmarks of this wine.

My early recollection of Coleraine was of the 1989 vintage – a wine that had all the traditional classed growth Bordeaux structure but with an extra hint of new world ripeness and purity that was often missing in the Haut-Medoc equivalents.

Indeed, Nick Buck confirmed that the original intention had been to mirror the top cru classés, but that today Coleraine has evolved its own style.

Bob’s top 15 wines from the Te Mata Coleraine tasting:

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Andrew Jefford tastes a selection of Gimblett Gravels wines from the 2013 vintage and explores the history and soils of this area within New Zealand's Hawke's Bay.

• See Andrew Jefford’s tasting notes on Gimblett Gravels wine from the 2013 vintage – scroll down this article

In the established wine-growing zones typical of Europe, each new vintage promises a change of stylistic emphasis. We already know the script: that’s the character and potential of each region, defined by innumerable past efforts. How, though, will next summer’s performance turn out on stage? Will it be a flop, or win an Oscar?

Leave Europe, and things are different. We still don’t know the potential; there’s always a greater vintage ahead. These regions have scripts which are still being written. Newly planted wine regions are more like young children than film stars; the vintage is the school report they bring home at the end of each term. Each report tells us a little more about the child or the class in question.

The region I’m thinking of is just 34 years old; indeed most of its planted 630 ha of vines have gone into the ground in the last 25 years. It’s also unique in terms of its status. Gimblett Gravels is not a wine region but a trademark, dating from 2001, and belonging to a producers’ association. It lies within the New Zealand region of Hawke’s Bay.

The idea behind going private in this way is both to avoid Coonawarra-style terroir disputes, and to amplify the terroir focus from the off: all of the 700 ha of plantable land lies on the former course of the Ngaruroro River. It switched its route (as the Rhône has done many times) after floods in 1867, leaving deep gravel beds layered with lenses of silt and loamy sand: the Omahu Gravels. River-gravel vineyards often prove auspicious in other vineyard regions, notably Bordeaux’s Médoc and the Southern Rhône itself.

There are nonetheless differences with European models. Irrigation is considered essential in the Gimblett Gravels, as it is in Argentina’s Mendoza. There are no controls over the grape varieties planted or the winemaking methods used, including must adjustment; and there is no tasting panel to which the wines must be submitted — so no notion of ‘typicity’ other than the one provided by the market, in rewarding some wines with higher prices than others. Bordeaux varieties account for around 60 per cent of plantings, and Syrah for another 20 per cent or so.

The Gimblett Gravels Association circulates its own school report – in the form of a surface-shipped annual tasting case, independently selected by Andrew Caillard MW, and sent to commentators around the world. Last year’s case, to be honest, was a ‘could do better’: the 2012 vintage in Hawke’s Bay was long, cool and challenging, and the wines were often tart and shrill (and overoaked); they made unalluring drinking.

Happily, the 2013 case is more exciting; indeed it’s the first one of the five which have been sent out so far which seems to me to make a compelling case for this much-fancied, often-lauded zone of New Zealand’s North Island. (The tendency to exhibit marked vintage quality swings may, in itself, be significant: Europe’s greatest regions tend to perform in this way, too.)

There is a climate challenge here. The wider Hawke’s Bay area is a little too cool to ripen Bordeaux varieties and Syrah satisfactorily, not so much in terms of overall heat summation as in terms of daytime heat: the sea breezes mean that many summer days peak at 25˚C, which according to Steve Smith MW is not enough of a warm throb for complete phenolic ripeness, even though satisfactory sugar levels can be reached.

Gimblett Gravels, by contrast, is a hot spot within Hawke’s Bay (its summer-day maxima are 2˚C-3˚C higher than elsewhere in the region), and by crop thinning, deficit irrigating and bunch positioning, growers have no trouble getting to full ripeness in favourable vintages.

2013 certainly looks like one of those: there were very few green notes in the wines, the fruit flesh was rounder and more tender than I had noted in previous vintages, and there was a little more structure and tannic power to the wines, balancing out their marked acidities (see notes below). This is a region where climate change might be expected to lend a helping hand to winegrowers rather than put them out of business.

What of the soils? The key difference between the very young Gimblett Gravels, and the older Médoc and Southern Rhône gravels seems to be that the sub-surface lenses within the banks are principally silty or sandy in this part of Hawke’s Bay, and lack the clay strata which are such a feature of (for example) Pauillac and St Estèphe, just as they are of Châteauneuf du Pape’s Crau plateau.

This is major reason why irrigation is essential here, at least for the time being; perhaps deeper root penetration might one day permit vines to be dry farmed. At a guess, then, one might expect that the wines will always have a certain delicacy of style. Margaux rather than Pauillac, let’s say, or St Joseph rather than Hermitage. In terms of the balances and the style of energy in the wines, better analogies than these for previous vintages would have been Chinon or Bourgueil, but with 2013 the wines have taken a clear step ‘down latitude’.

As in the past, the Bordeaux blends seem to me to have been deeper, more complex and more successful than the Syrah, and that’s still my view with this year’s case, too. This year, though, the gap is less marked – and in any case the Syrah is unquestionably distinctive enough to justify its place in what must be vineyards of rapidly rising value. All the oak regimes could be eased back further, though none of these wines was grossly over-oaked. I feel producers could afford to be more adventurous with their extractions when the vintage allows, and no one need fret about acidity here.

But let’s not judge the class too soon: terroir will always surprise us, and there are decades of development ahead within an ineluctably warming world. What the 2013 vintage shows is that there is real talent here – not just in the stones and the sunlight, but in those crafting the wines. 2012 may have been ‘could do better’, but 2013 looks like ‘should go far’.

The 2013 Gimblett Gravels Tasting Case

Beach House, Cabernet Franc

Clear, vivacious, pungent and fresh raspberry scents, with a dramatic, bracing palate which contrives to soften towards tar at the end: every inch the soloist. Don’t serve this too warm. 88 points (out of 100)

Anthony Joseph Vidal, Legacy Syrah

Quietly classy scents: pressed black fruits with a sweet sheen. Calm, smooth, pristine, pure and fresh on the palate: a light-bodied Syrah of unstrenuous, naturally articulated appeal. 89

Craggy Range, Le Sol Syrah

Some of the Syrahs almost seem to have a thiol-like note when first opened, and this is one of them (though it’s not under screwcap) – but there is also pristine blackcurrant here. On the palate, it is soft, smooth, resonant and beautifully defined: fresh air in the cool of the morning. There’s a little juniper mixed in with the blackcurrant on the palate. 90

Esk Valley, Winemaker’s Reserve Syrah

Spice, oak, ripe leaf and clean blackcurrant scents, then an ample, fruit-saturated palate with the best textural wealth of any of the Syrahs in this selection, giving the wine’s exuberant style plenty of shape and persistence. 89

Mission Estate, Jewelstone Syrah

A richer, creamier style of black-fruit aroma than its peers, yet the palate is fresh, bright and cascading, with lots of pure-scented appeal and discreet supporting textural wealth. 89

Te Awa, Syrah

This wine needs some air (or a quick decant), but once it’s had it, you’ll find it packed with ripe Morello cherry scent and flavour, and with a liquorice root finish: very choice, tasty and moreish. It seems almost like a juicy Côtes de Nuits in its fruit style, and that fruit lyricism, perfume and intrinsic sweetness bodes well for the future. 90

Villa Maria, Braided Gravels Merlot, Single Vineyard

An exotic style of Merlot, with notes of tomato and peach as well as more classical plum and tobacco. It’s an attractively soft wine with round fruit and plenty of nascent complexity, though structurally lighter than some of its peers in the case. 88

Anthony Joseph Vidal, Legacy

The Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend has classic blackcurrant and black cherry scents with a sweet sheen. Smooth, beguiling, amply contoured and very satisfying on the palate: glowing ripeness of fruit plus a classic sea-breeze lift. 90

Mills Reef, Elspeth

This pure Cabernet takes the ripeness further than its peers in the sample case: blackberry, raspberry and creamy coffee notes, while on the palate there is more of that creamy coffee, and even a prune note behind the blackberry. Mellow, opulent and relaxed: amazing to see a wine of this style from anywhere in Hawke’s Bay. It could do with beefier tannins, but there’s lots to enjoy in the luxurious fruit. 90

Newton Forrest Estate, Cornerstone

Sweet red fruits are what you first notice on the nose in this Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Malbec blend, but with time in the glass there are autumnal leaf and leaf-compost notes. On the palate, this is engaging and assured, with near-European levels of structure and textural depth. The creamy fruit of the mid palate modulates to something dryer, more austere and more penetrating by the end. An excellent effort. 92

Trinity Hill, The Gimblett

More aromatically forthcoming than many of its peers, this Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 29% and Petit Verdot 1%) shows lots of exuberant red fruit and a liquorice-fenugreek spice edge. Fresh, charming and complex on the palate, and more classical here than the aromas suggested; firm shaping tannins and a little finishing austerity to gather the threads together. 91

Squawking Magpie, SQM Cabernets/Merlot

This blend of the two Cabernets and Merlot has lots to say for itself: plenty of vivid fruit, but also notes of spice, blood and milk chocolate, too. It’s another wine with impressive ripeness and complexity on the palate: red and black autumn berries, crab apple and cranberry, but folded together seamlessly and with some promising tannins to lend depth and perspective. Pristine definition and clarity, too. 92

More Jefford on Monday columns:

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Jefford on Monday: Stepping out with the Companion

Jefford on Monday: Locomotion in the Languedoc

Distinctly modern New Zealand Chardonnay, full of gun smoke, grapefruit skin, toast, vanilla and sizzling butter aromas. White nectarine and peach flavours greet you on the palate which is broad, rich and creamy, yet manages to retain a distinct elegance, with lovely length and a pleasingly dry finish (13.5%).

£39.20 Halifax Wine Co, Hatch Mansfield, Whalley Wine Shop

The Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay was the nearunanimous choice for this International Trophy among our judging panel, thanks to its beautiful texture, assured winemaking and judicious balance between fruit and oak. It overcame some stellar competition from Margaret River, South Africa’s cool Elgin region and a classic Chassagne-Montrachet.

The judges’ description of the wine is in tune with Vidal winemaker Hugh Crichton’s mission to achieve power and restraint in his wines, alongside concentration, complexity and fine texture. Freshness is key, thanks to retaining good natural acidity and balanced alcohol, alongside the careful use of oak.

But the 2012 vintage of this wine was also shaped by the elements. Heavy rain was forecast for Hawke’s Bay in the run-up to harvest, leaving the Vidal team with a tough call; they decided to pick all the Chardonnay, rather than risk losing the entire crop, and reaped the reward in the shape of a wine of restraint and freshness, with great flavours and acidity. Low yields also helped.

The vineyards for this wine are largely situated in places where the meso-climatic conditions combine warmth for richness of flavour with night-time coolness to preserve good levels of natural acidity. Low to moderate soil fertility and green harvesting help to keep yields down and control vigour.

Now owned by Sir George Fistonich of Villa Maria fame, Vidal was created in 1905 when Spaniard Anthony Joseph Vidal left his uncle Joseph Soler’s estate in Whanganui and planted a small vineyard at Hastings in Hawke’s Bay, lured by the alluvial soil and dry conditions that reminded him of his homeland.

Vidal winemaker Hugh Crichtonaims for a balance of power and restraint in his wines

Tasted against

Château de Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy, France 2013 • Oak Valley, Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa 2014 • Vasse Felix, Heytesbury Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2013.

Wine regions such as Marlborough or Hawke’s Bay could enjoy greater international protection under New Zealand government plans to implement a legal system of Geographical Indications (GIs).

Greystone vineyards in New Zealand

Ministers said this week that they would put into practice the Geographical Indications (Wine and Spirits) Registration Act – first passed as long ago as 2006 but yet to enter into force.

GIs offer a guarantee that a product comes from a specific region and enjoys the qualities and reputation specific to that region – examples being Champagne and Chianti.

‘The act will set up a registration scheme for wine and spirit geographical indications, similar to the trademark registration scheme,’ said New Zealand Trade Minister Tim Groser.

‘Being able to register wines and spirits geographical indications here will make it easier for their users to enforce them in New Zealand.

‘It will also make it easier for our exporters to protect their geographical indications in some overseas markets.’

New Zealand wine is now the country’s sixth largest export earner, with overseas revenues up 9% to NZ$1.37bn in the year to January – and plans to increase this figure to NZ$2bn by 2020.

The move was ‘warmly welcomed’ by generic body New Zealand Winegrowers, whose CEO Philip Gregan said: ‘It will equip the industry with the tools to protect its premium brand from misappropriation or misuse, as well as help secure market access in some regions.

‘It’s a big step forward for the industry.’

A Bill to amend the Act will be introduced to New Zealand’s Parliament later this year, and the Act is expected to be passed by the end of 2015.

Written by Richard Woodard

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for New Zealand Red Rhône Varietals over £15 went to Crossroads, Winemakers Collection Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay 2010 (13%)

Tasted against:

• No other Golds in this category

Profile:

Founded in 1987, but owned by the Yealands Wine Group since 2011, Crossroads has forged a reputation for releasing some truly marvellous wines. Through gradual investment it now owns six vineyards across the country, including four in Hawke’s bay.

Its Winemakers Collection is a series of wines created from the best parcels of fruit. This Trophy-winning Syrah comes from its small Elms vineyard (where Crossroads has planted three different Syrah clones) on the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s bay – a great location for the grape, says winemaker Miles Dinneen. ‘The vineyard produces ripe, aromatic wines year after year. The free-draining gravel soils limit vine vigour, naturally producing small crops of small-berried fruit, and our temperate climate means the wines always have good balance,’ he explains.

Dinneen is Hawke’s Bay born and bred, and after a spell in the US he returned home, joining Crossroads in 2004. The objective with Crossroads wines, he says, is straightforward: ‘We concentrate on careful, sustainable viticulture and simple, hands-on winemaking to clearly represent the best in Hawke’s Bay wine.’

Written by Decanter

Watch our exclusive video interview with Hugh Crichton winemaker at Vidal Estate, New Zealand, talking about two of their Syrah wines; the 2009 Legacy Series and the 2010 Reserve Series from the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke's Bay.

Written by Georgina Hindle

Winemakers in New Zealand's Hawke's Bay say the 2013 harvest is set to produce a historic vintage.

The wine grape harvest in Hawke’s Bay, on the east coast of New Zealand‘s north island, may have only just been completed, but several winemakers are already lauding 2013 as perhaps the best vintage they’ve seen.

There is particular excitement around sub-region Gimblett Gravels. Tony Bish, chairman of the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association and chief winemaker at Sacred Hill, described 2013 as the ‘best in living memory… the stuff legends are made of’.

He said the ‘quality of the fruit is just terrific, the best in my 32 years, a great Merlot year’. The Merlot is so good that Scared Hill may, for the first time, release a straight varietal, he said, adding that 2012 was actually the worst year he’d experienced.

Dermot McCollum, who took over Stonecroft Winery in 2010, described 2013 as offering ‘perfect conditions all the way through’, following ‘two nasty vintages’.

Chief winemaker at Craggy Range, Matt Stafford, said the perfect weather meant he only found ten berries affected by botrytis, which is ‘unheard of’. He declared 2013 ‘the best ever for Merlot’, adding that it also provided top Chardonnay fruit, although he said 2009 remains the benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon.

John Hancock, of Trinity Hill, said he’s still waiting to see if 2013 can top 2009 for reds, the region’s staples, but ‘it is undoubtedly a great year’.

Reports across New Zealand suggest all major regions are likely to impress with the latest harvest. Central Otago is looking very good, but did suffer some ‘frost issues’; Marlborough has enjoyed another excellent year, and Martinborough has also seen a very fine year, albeit below the lofty standards of 2008.

Written by Ken Gargett

John Buck, chairman of Hawke's Bay winery Te Mata Estate, has been awarded a Companion of New Zealand Order of Merit (CNZM) for his work in wine and the arts.

The New Year’s honour recognises Buck’s leadership role in the New Zealand wine industry, helping to establish Hawke’s Bay Vintners (now Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers) and serving as chairman of the New Zealand Wine Institute from 1991 to 1996.

Under his leadership, the institute developed an export strategy, targeting NZ$100m of export sales by the year 2000; dismissed by some as fantasy, it reached its goal with a year to spare.

Buck, 70, bought Te Mata Estate in 1974 after he and business partner Michael Morris spent several years searching for vineyard sites suited to making fine Cabernet/Merlot and Chardonnay wines.

Since then, Te Mata has planted or acquired nine vineyard sites in the area, producing its wines from a total estate of 260 hectares and exporting them to well over 30 countries.

Buck, who was inducted into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame last year, helped to establish the Hawke’s Bay Charity Wine Auction in 1991.

The CNZM award also recognises his contribution to the arts in establishing the New Zealand Poet Laureate award, and in the restoration and success of the Hawke’s Bay Opera House.

‘I’ve always believed that New Zealand wine, and the arts, can foot it with the world’s best,’ Buck said.

‘All I’ve ever done is put that belief into practice. It’s been a pleasurable challenge.’

Written by Richard Woodard

The container ship that ran aground on a reef off New Zealand's North Island last week contained at least 4000 cases of wine.

Marlborough producer Astrolabe confirmed it had 4000 cases of wine on board cargo ship, Rena, with a retail value of up to NZ$800,000 (£400,600). It is likely there are more wineries affected with one local wine insurance specialist urging clients to come forward with documentation.

But, Jason Yank, general manager of Astrolabe told Decanter.com, ‘The wine is not yet lost or damaged so there’s nothing we can do. It also means we can’t make an insurance claim.

The 236m Rena ran aground on Astrolabe Reef, a well-charted navigation hazard 22km from the port of Tauranga on New Zealand’s North Island, on 5 October.

More than 350 tonnes of oil have leaked from the stricken ship, making this New Zealand’s worst environmental disaster.

The vessel is now listing and cracks have appeared in the hull.

New Zealand’s Prime Minister, John Key, has said it may break up. In the past 24 hours, listing has caused 70 containers to fall into the sea but the contents of those containers is still unknown. Astrolabe is awaiting an update from authorities on the whereabouts of the company’s wine.

‘One of our containers could have already been submerged in the boat’s hold but it’s all speculation at the moment, ‘ Yank added.

The ship’s captain and second officer have been charged over the stranding, according to the BBC.

Written by Rebecca Gibb in Auckland

A Gisborne winery has become the latest victim of the New Zealand grape glut, going into liquidation owing more than NZ$1.8 million (£911,000).

Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay producer Amor-Bendall has debts totaling $1,838, 652, including $250,000 owed to unsecured creditors.

Its liquidator, Shephard Dunphy explained the company was ‘adversely affected in 2008 by the oversupply in the domestic wine market in conjunction with the global financial crisis and subsequent decrease in demand from the international market.’

The company had tried to target the higher margin restaurant industry unsuccessfully and with rising debts, shareholders placed the company in liquidation. 

This is the latest in a string of failed wine businesses in New Zealand, and follows the demise of Stoney Range Wines, Awatere Vineyard Estates, Gravitas Wines, Matakana Estate and Cape Campbell Wines in the past year.

Written by Rebecca Gibb

Decanter contributing editor Stephen Brook is travelling in New Zealand and sent us this report from Hawkes Bay

Elegant Chardonnays and Pinots at Ata Rangi got the weekend off to a good start. It’s a four-hour drive north to Hawkes Bay, where a large regional tasting was presided over by Jenny Dobson, whom I last met twenty years ago when she was the winemaker at Ch Sénéjac in the Médoc.

Hawkes Bay can produce anything, which is a drawback as well as an advantage, since it makes it difficult for this dispersed region to establish an identity. Chardonnays and Sauvignon can be very good, but the strength of Hawkes Bay is Syrah, which attains great fruit intensity and a cool-climate character.

Bordeaux blends can be excellent too (and worryingly similar in style to Bordeaux itself!) but in cooler years there can be a slight greenness, as there can be in Bordeaux, of course. My favourite wines were from the small Paritua winery, which recently went bust.

I spent the next morning at Vidal with winemaker Hugh Crichton and visited the Gimblett Gravels area that is the source of most of the top red wines from Hawkes Bay.

I tasted and lunched at the German-owned Elephant Hill winery, which proves it is possible to grow vines along the shingly sea shore.

The viticulturalist is Californian, and thought she had experienced cool-climate farming there until she arrived in Hawkes Bay and froze. Indeed the weather is positively Mancunian.

Steve Smith runs the impressive Craggy Range winery here, and was one of those who realised early on the potential of the Gimblett Gravels.

We dined at the winery’s handsome restaurant and I indulged in some unsubtle lobbying. Steve is also chairman of the Air New Zealand Wine Awards next week, at which I will be one of the international judges.

I had a nightmare that I could be presented with three days of constant Sauvignon Blanc. He reassured me that I’d have the occasional red-wine flight too.

It’s now Sunday and I have three more visits ahead of me before boarding another small plane and heading up to Auckland.

From then on I’ll have my nose in a glass for three long days. The judging will confirm what I have already realised: that for all the woes of an over-supply of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (and a slump in that style’s reputation), New Zealand wine is on a roll.

Rieslings of precision and elegance, Pinot Noir in a range of styles, and a rapidly improving grasp of other reds wines such as Syrah and Bordeaux blends.

The prevailing cool climate here means full ripeness cannot be guaranteed, but when the vintage obliges, the wines can be world-class.

Written by Stephen Brook

One of New Zealand’s premier Pinot regions, Martinborough is becoming more accessible as producers introduce less expensive second and third wines, writes BOB CAMPBELL MW��

The weather certainly feels Christmassy as I drive through gently falling snow across the Rimutaka Ranges between Wellington and Martinborough. It is only a month or two until Christmas but this is the southern hemisphere. We don’t do snow at this time of the year. Our Santa Claus wears shorts and sandals.

Two days ago I made the reverse trip in torrential rain. A four-wheel-drive vehicle in front of me aqua-planed on the surface water and flipped. In the one-and-a-half-hour drive I’d passed nearly a dozen cars destined for panel-beater or wrecker’s yard. I arrived in Martinborough shortly before the river flowed over the only bridge into town. There was no way out for the next 12 hours.

Ironically, one reason the pioneering winemakers of Martinborough chose the region was because it had the lowest rainfall of any area in the North Island. It also had a reliably cool climate ideally suited to varieties such as Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, together with free-draining gravel soils of only moderate fertility. Most of the land was flat, and the country’s second largest city was so close that some residents chose to commute between the big smoke and their unspoiled haven across the hills.

https://www.decanter.com/features/great-wine-route-north-island-new-zealand-247573/

Neil McCallum of Dry River was one of five winemakers who by 1986 had planted vineyards in Martinborough. ‘From the available data, the low rainfall area was limited to a tiny locality roughly 5km in radius, and a study of soil maps revealed that the deep, free-draining gravels they sought within this were restricted to an even smaller part.’

To protect the integrity of this clearly defined viticultural sweet spot, wines made from grapes grown inside the area were given a seal of origin by the Martinborough Winegrowers’ Association. By 1991 the area was named ‘The Martinborough Terrace Appellation’ to distinguish it from other terroirs being explored nearby. Martinborough was the first New Zealand wine region to clearly define and protect its viticultural boundaries, which contained only 600ha (hectares) of viticultural land according to McCallum’s estimate.

By the early 1990s Martinborough had a reputation worth protecting. The area was then regarded as New Zealand’s Pinot Noir capital, a status that has since been challenged by Central Otago, though the regional styles are distinctly different. Martinborough Pinot Noir tends to be denser (although that may be a function of older vines) with slippier textures and fruit flavours that suggest black plum. Central Otago wines are typically more vibrant with flavours that are closer to red and black cherry plus a dash of wild thyme.

Unlike Central Otago, Martinborough has many strings to its oenological bow. You don’t have to look far to find some of the country’s best Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. Where red wine is concerned, Pinot Noir reigns supreme. But you’ll also find good Syrah and Bordeaux blends – though perhaps not in every vintage and always in tiny quantities.

Martinborough’s boundary is a 10km radius from the town square. It includes the original Martinborough Gravels area, which in Italy would probably receive ‘Classico’ status, as well as the new Te Muna district, an outcrop of the Martinborough Gravels with stonier soils and a marginally cooler climate.

Martinborough makes a minuscule amount of wine even by New Zealand’s moderately minuscule standards. About 3% of the nation’s grapes are crushed there between March and May. It has a far greater share of the country’s top wine, however, although that fact is slightly obscured by the reluctance of many Martinborough winemakers to enter their wines in competitions or even to send writers review samples. Most sell the lion’s share of their production at the gate or by mail order to enthusiastic customers who keep coming back for more.

Martinborough’s reputation is in the main driven by larger producers such as Palliser, Te Kairanga, Martinborough Vineyard and Craggy Range with the help of high-profile small producers like Ata Rangi and Dry River. Its reputation has also been boosted by Taste Martinborough, an annual event that attracts wine enthusiasts from around the country. It’s a winery open day when each producer teams up with a restaurant and group of musicians to offer wine, song and good food. Tickets to Taste Martinborough sell out within hours of release. The 10,500 lucky ticket purchasers walk from winery to winery before settling on the one that offers the best food, wine and music. It’s a day of discovery that helps swell winery mailing lists.

Another recent development has helped soften Martinborough’s rather elitist image. Several producers have introduced a second (and in one case a third) label, offering lesser wines at lower prices. Some are clearly linked to the mother brand, such as Martinborough Vineyard’s Te Tera range and Te Kairanga’s Runholder, although the latter label sits between the flagship Reserve and Premium wines. Most disassociate the second label by using an independent brand. Examples include Pencarrow (Palliser), Walnut Ridge (Ata Rangi), and Struggler’s Flat (Craggy Range). These satellite brands make Martinborough wines more accessible to a wider market, as well as preserving the integrity of the flagship label.

Variation in vintage conditions is a fact of life. Phyll Patie of Ata Rangi once explained to me how Célèbre, its Syrah-Merlot-Cabernet blend, looks Bordeaux-like in a warm vintage and yet in a cooler vintage assumes a peppery Rhône-like character. Botrytised wines appear in wetter vintages while in hotter years wines such as Pinot Gris tend to carry more residual sugar. In recent years the vintages have been more erratic than usual. 2002 was the wettest summer on record, while 2004 had the wettest February on record. In times like these Martinborough’s drying winds and free-draining gravelly soils can save the day.

KEY PLAYERS

Ata Rangi

Ata Rangi is possibly the region’s most celebrated Pinot Noir producer. For around 20 years the winery has been making silken-textured Pinot Noir that’s New Zealand’s answer to Musigny. Although its reputation has been built on Pinot Noir, it has received considerable support from two intense, stylish Chardonnays, a robust Syrah-Cabernet-Merlot blend called Célèbre, a luscious Pinot Gris, a full-flavoured Sauvignon Blanc and a botrytised sweet Riesling when vintage conditions allow.

Winemaker/part owner Clive Paton believes that although they’ve had great success with Pinot Noir the style still has plenty of potential for further improvement thanks to vine age and their accumulated experience in both vineyard and winery. ‘We’ve learned a lot in the past two decades but we’re a long way from knowing how to get the best out of our vineyards.’

Dry River

If demand is any measure, Dry River is Martinborough – and New Zealand’s – most successful winery. Apart from a relatively small export allocation, all Dry River wines are sold by mail order within days of release. If you’re not on the ‘A’ mailing list, you’re more likely to be able to buy Dry River’s wines in the UK than you are in New Zealand.

Founder Dr Neil McCallum has focused his not inconsiderable intellect on the task of making long-lived wines for serious wine lovers. With almost fanatical devotion he has produced a range of sometimes unconventional (when measured using a local yardstick) wines that are consistently among the country’s best.

Any ‘A’ mailing list customer who fails to buy Dry River wines for two years is removed from the list. To yield a place on that exalted list a person must have become teetotal, very ill or, more likely, be dead.

Martinborough Vineyard

Martinborough winemakers can be thankful that the winery bearing the region’s name is a top performer. The winery was founded by soil scientist Dr Derek Milne and fellow wine enthusiasts after his research showed Martinborough had similar growing conditions to Burgundy – a classic example of money following mouth. In the late 1980s and 1990s Martinborough Vineyard led the way with a complex Pinot Noir that departed from the ‘fruit bomb’ styles of the region. Other wines of note include a heavyweight Chardonnay that has developed more finesse in recent years, a vibrant Riesling, a bold oak-aged Pinot Gris and tangy Sauvignon Blanc.

Palliser

New Zealand’s most successful Sauvignon Blanc, based on my reviews over many years, is not Cloudy Bay or Saint Clair (although both come close) – in fact it’s not even from Marlborough, often credited as being New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc capital. Palliser Sauvignon Blanc has consistently out-gunned its rivals in all but the most uncooperative vintages. It’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in drag – bigger, bolder and brassier.

One of the region’s larger wineries, Palliser sources grapes from its own vineyards and from growers throughout the region. Wines include a Méthode Traditionelle sparkler that is often exceptionally good, a fruit-focused Chardonnay, a succulent Riesling, a Pinot Noir that is growing in stature and, recently, a luscious Pinot Gris.

A second label, Pencarrow, offers a parallel range of good-value wines that help to maintain a high level of quality in the mother label.

Te Kairanga

Te Kairanga was born when one of the founders purchased Martinborough’s first vineyard in a mortgage sale. Today it is the region’s second largest producer after Palliser Estate with just over 100ha of vineyard land plus supplies from contract growers. Pinot Noir represents around 60% of production with grapes sourced from many vineyards. A three-tier level of quality has Te Kairanga Estate Pinot Noir as the entry-level wine. Above that is Te Kairanga Runholder Chardonnay, introduced for the first time from the 2004 vintage. The flagship wine, Te Kairanga John Martin Reserve Pinot Noir (previously ‘Reserve’), is only made in exceptional vintages, with the first vintage being 2005. There are just two levels of Chardonnay, with Reserve at the top. Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc are also made although these do not boast a Reserve label.

NEW FACES

Escarpment

Established in Martinborough satellite Te Muna by Larry McKenna. Pinot Noir is the star, occupying 70% of the real estate with the balance shared equally between Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling. The vines are close-planted at about twice the region’s average density.

Why Te Muna? ‘We share the same alluvial gravel soils as the Martinborough Terraces region but have slightly cooler weather conditions thanks to a marginally higher altitude,’ explains McKenna. ‘Our vines seem less vigorous than those grown on the terraces possibly as a result of stonier soils plus cooler, windier ripening conditions. Te Muna Pinot Noir seems to have more pronounced colour and more tannins although that could be partly due to young vines and new clones.’

McKenna’s first Pinot Noir from his new vineyard, Kupe 2003, strongly endorses his faith in the area. This first taste of success combined with McKenna’s past form has created high expectations for this new producer.

Craggy Range

Craggy Range established its wineries and much of its vineyards in Hawke’s Bay, in an investment rumoured to exceed NZ$70 million. At the same time it secured growers in Marlborough and planted 90ha in Martinborough to make high-quality Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Viticulturist and general manager Steve Smith MW chose Te Muna to plant a vineyard on two levels of river terraces that include a north-facing hillside area. There’s also a rugby field-sized reservoir to supply an elaborate sprinkler system for frost protection.

Smith found that his land had two distinctly different soil types. ‘The soils determined the varietal mix on our vineyard. One soil type perfectly suited Pinot Noir while the other is ideal for Sauvignon Blanc.’

The vineyard has exceeded Smith’s expectations. ‘I’m really excited about the quality of Pinot Noir we’re getting. Martinborough has demonstrated an ability to produce great Pinot Noir but the full potential of the region has yet to be realised. I’m also pretty enthusiastic about the potential of Sauvignon Blanc – our 2005 is a real cracker!’

Kusuda

Hiroyuki Kusuda is New Zealand’s first Japanese winemaker. He studied winemaking at the Geisenheim Institute in Germany where he met Kai and Marion Shubert. The Shuberts moved to Wairarapa, north of Martinborough, where they started Schubert winery. Hiroyuki worked with them for several vintages before starting his own label, initially using grapes grown on a leased vineyard.

Hiroyuki Kusuda is a recognised sake expert who devotes the same enthusiasm to understanding and making high-quality wine. His passion is Pinot Noir although he has also made Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah under his label. Kusuda wines are intense, complex, and exhibit a daring funkiness that I find very appealing. Most of his production is sold for high prices in Japan. Kusuda has an exciting future.

Premium red wine from New Zealand? It once seemed a misnomer, but not any more. Martinborough and South Island have pinned their colours to Bordeaux, but in Hawke’s Bay on North Island it’s Bordeaux blends and the Syrah grape that are of interest. Not that this is necessarily news. Te Mata’s John Buck has been making a solid case for Cabernet-Merlot blends for a number of years, but quality has otherwise been thin on the ground.

The difference today is the increased level of commitment and investment from producers. The Villa Maria group, Montana, Matua Valley, Te Mata and Babich are all expanding here, and there are some serious new investors to keep an eye on. Add to this improved site selection, winemaking and viticultural techniques and the region looks to be headed in a positive direction.

Hawke’s Bay

Hawke’s Bay is one of New Zealand’s pioneer wine regions and, with 2,339 hectares (ha) under production, is second only to Marlborough in terms of output. Chardonnay is the single most cultivated grape, but red varieties account for 41% of the total area under production – and this is due to rise to 48% by 2002, making it the country’s most important red wine region. Cabernet Sauvignon is the major variety, but it is steadily being overtaken by Merlot. The Bordeaux components Malbec and Cabernet Franc are also showing steady increase, as is Shiraz. Varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot exist, but producers are convinced that the Bordeaux blend, with a dominance of Merlot, is where the future lies.

In fact, comparisons with Bordeaux are often made. Climatically, Hawke’s Bay has a marked maritime influence and similar hours of sunshine and temperature. As in Bordeaux, where the autumnal equinox can hasten in rain at the time of harvesting, Hawke’s Bay can be beset by cyclonic depressions that bring rain during the picking in March and April. Both regions need late-season clemency to help with the ripeness of flavour and tannin. Sugar ripeness, however, appears to be less of a struggle in Hawke’s Bay, perhaps due to the ultra-violet penetration that results from the thin ozone layer.

When it comes to site selection, Hawke’s Bay, like Bordeaux, has put a premium on free-draining gravelly soils. This was not always the case: until recently, many of the vineyards were located on the fertile, silty soils of the Heretaunga Plains, a contributing factor to the herbaceous character in many wines. Gravelly soils, though, exist in tracts around the region; and over the last 10 years producers aiming for quality have been falling over themselves to acquire blocks of land in these zones. The two prime areas are the Gimblett Road and the Ngatarawa triangle. Hill sites will be the next stage of development, and already there are some small vineyards being established in the limestone-rich foothills of Te Mata Peak and at Roy’s Hill.

The Buck family

In light of these trends, John Buck is a man who is running ahead of the game. In 1974, he and partner Michael Morris purchased Te Mata Estate, convinced that this was the location from which to produce top-quality Bordeaux-style wines. The oldest winemaking property in New Zealand (vines were first planted here in 1892), Te Mata possesses vineyards on the north-facing foothills of the Peak and near the Tukituki River, all of which have been replanted over the last 20 years. The top-of-the-range Coleraine and Awatea wines are Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated, with a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Under the guiding hand of winemaker Peter Cowley they have an elegant, rather than powerful, style. The Bullnose Syrah is one of the most convincing examples of this variety to appear in Hawke’s Bay.

Another major project is now close to completion. In 1993, the Buck family bought a 200ha property known as Woodthorpe Terraces. About 110ha of gravelly river terrace are being planted with Bordeaux varieties, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Viognier, and the aim is to be on stream by 2002. A new winery will process the fruit, some of which is already being sold to other producers. The major New Zealand wine companies are, in turn, scaling up their operations in Hawke’s Bay. Church Road Winery is moving from a crush of 3,000 to 6,000 tonnes over the next couple of years, most of which will be red. In a link-up with Bordeaux négociant Cordier, the winery has been able to benefit from the expertise of Georges Pauli, oenologist and manager of Château Gruaud-Larose, to craft a more complex range of red wines. ‘The French have given us a better understanding of tannin management and have convinced us that lower acidities are not such a bad thing,’ observes Church Road winemaker Tony Prichard. The Reserve wines are top of the range, along with the limited-release Tom, a stylish blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The Villa Maria group is represented in Hawke’s Bay by Esk Valley and Vidal Estate, both of which have a reputation for their red wines. Grapes are sourced mainly from contract growers, but the group has its own vineyards and more land is being developed. The Vidal Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot is a round, fleshy wine, while the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 has a big, firm structure and plenty of lifted fruit. ‘You can still find some greenness in Hawke’s Bay’s commercial wines, but, from 1995, it’s rare in the premium range,’ says Vidal winemaker Rod McDonald.

The Terraces

Top of the range at Esk Valley, and one of New Zealand’s most expensive wines, is The Terraces. The wine was produced in 1995 and 1998 from a blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Judging from an impressive barrel sample of Malbec from the excellent 2000 vintage, this variety is evidently a key component in the blend. ‘I’m a great believer in Malbec, as it ripens early in Hawke’s Bay and gives colour, spice aromas and a mouthfilling sweetness to the wine,’ explains winemaker Gordon Russell.

Sileni Estates

Of the newer faces, Sileni Estates is definitely the area’s most ambitious project. The vision of owner Graeme Avery, the complex includes a vathouse, cellars, two restaurants and a wine education centre. Externally, two vineyards of about 50ha each are being developed. Grape varieties include the Bordeaux mix, but winemaker Grant Edmonds, formerly of Villa Maria, reckons the future lies with Merlot. ‘Cabernet Sauvignon is too vigorous here and too irregular in quality,’ he says. As proof of this conviction, he is having the Cabernet Sauvignon at his own property, Redmetal Vineyards, grafted over to Merlot. The Sileni Merlot-Cabernet 1998 (the first vintage) is a rich, firmly structured wine, but bigger and more voluptuous still is the EV 1998, made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.

Gimblett Road

The Gimblett Road area is the chosen location for a number of other new ventures, including Matariki, Craggy Range, Te Awa Farm, Unison and Trinity Hill. At the six-hectare Unison Vineyards, husband-and-wife team Bruce and Anna-Barbara Helliwell run a small European-style operation. The work includes plenty of shoot and leaf plucking to provide an open canopy, and green harvesting to reduce the yield. Both wines, the regular Unison and the Unison Selection, are made from a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz aged in French and American oak. The 1998s are finely crafted wines.

Craggy Range is a venture on a different scale. The brainchild of US businessman Terry Peabody and viticulturalist Steve Smith MW, the aim is to produce only single-vineyard wines. A new winery is also planned with John Belsham, the former manager of contract winemaking facility Rapaura Vintners in Marlborough.

Another estate that looks set to stay the distance is Te Awa Farm. The Lawson family has been farming in the region since 1964 and has been growing grapes for contract fruit since 1980. In 1992 it sold off its existing vineyards and bought land in the Gimblett Road area with a view to producing premium red wines from estate-grown fruit. There are now 40ha of Bordeaux varieties, Shiraz, Pinotage and Chardonnay under vine and a steadily expanding winery.

Te Awa’s winemaker, Jenny Dobson, spent 12 years as cellarmaster at Médoc cru bourgeois Château Sénéjac and a year at Frankland Estate in Western Australia. Her use of French winemaking practices, plus her expertise in blending, have helped create a more complex style of wine, in particular the top-quality Boundary. ‘Red winemakers in Hawke’s Bay should look to France for inspiration rather than Australia as the fruit can be handled in the same way,’ she says. Recent vintages, in particular 1998 and 2000, have highlighted the red revolution in Hawke’s Bay. Add a few more years to the age of the vines and this could be labelled a ‘classic’ red wine region.