Susie Barrie MW, Matt Hodgson and Dror Nativ MW tasted 66 wines, with 11 Outstanding and 40 Highly recommended

English sparkling wine: Panel tasting scores

66 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 11

Highly recommended 40

Recommended 14

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release brut or drier-style white, rosé or red traditional-method sparkling wines, single varietals or blends, produced in the UK using a blend of multiple vintages and labelled as non-vintage or multi-vintage

It was the year of the London Olympics, not to mention Queen Elizabeth ll’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations.

But for UK wine, 2012 was an annus horribilis on a scale hitherto unseen in the modern era.

When a vintage that bad comes along, having a stock of reserve wines to draw on is an essential blending tool in any traditional-method sparkling winemaker’s arsenal.

Sadly, given the nascency of the UK industry at that time, very few wineries had a reserve wine programme.

But as Hattingley Valley’s then head winemaker Emma Rice said: ‘2012 spurred us on to do it’.

Fast forward to today and the industry has evolved from producing largely single-vintage wines to one where non-vintage (NV) and multi-vintage (MV) bottlings play a growing role.

Hence this panel tasting, which also perfectly demonstrated how quality is rising seemingly exponentially.

As Dror Nativ MW stated: ‘If you consider the number of high scores we gave today, there’s really smart, consistent winemaking in England.’

Depth of flavour

Matt Hodgson concurred, adding: ‘I think non- and multi-vintage is the right direction of travel for the English wine industry’, and all the judges agreed that the wines containing higher levels of reserves (or just based on older vintages) delivered greater complexity and depth of flavour.

It’s also worth mentioning that almost all the wines we rated Outstanding (95 points or more) had seen oak and spent considerable time on lees, which added further layers of flavour.

One noteworthy observation was the way in which the whites outperformed the rosé wines (of the 30 wines scoring 93-96pts, only eight were rosé).

Hodgson commented: ‘We’ve always been big advocates of English sparkling rosé [at retailer Grape Britannia] and they were great – it’s just the whites were even better.’

Beyond quality, what I find exciting is that, in the key sweet spot of £30-£50, the best UK wines offer excellent value.

As Nativ said: ‘Based on the tasting today, we saw brilliant value compared to either Champagne or any worldclass sparkling wines.’

I couldn’t agree more.

See all notes and scores from the UK sparkling wines tasting

The judges

UK sparkling wines panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Georgie Hindle, Arthur Coggill and Tom King tasted 147 wines, with 3 Exceptional, 32 Outstanding and 98 Highly recommended.

147 wines tasted

Exceptional 3

Outstanding 32

Highly recommended 98

Recommended 14

Commended 0

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their grand vin Pomerol and St-Emilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé or 1er Grand Cru Classé wines from the 2020 vintage

'There wasn’t a wine I didn’t like,’ remarked Tom King after what proved to be one of Decanter’s most successful panel tastings in recent memory, with an extraordinary 35 wines rated Outstanding or above from 147 tasted – clear evidence of the strength and consistency of the 2020 vintage in St-Emilion and Pomerol.

The two-day blind tasting confirmed the quality across the board. Arthur Coggill summed it up neatly: ‘2020 is a homogeneously good vintage in Bordeaux – these are wines you can go and buy with confidence.’

The judges found no outright failures; ‘We didn’t actually find a bad wine,’ he added.

The growing season in 2020 was defined by an unusually early start, extreme heatwaves and the driest summer since 1959 (until the 2022 vintage).

Merlot, the dominant variety on the Right Bank, ripened beautifully under these conditions, yet the wines showed surprising restraint.

Alcohol levels and oak influence were far more moderate than the judges had feared; there were no overworked wines, instead freshness and balance prevailed. Differences between the appellations stood out clearly.

Pomerol offered greater consistency, especially at the lower end, producing plush and fleshy wines that remained faithful to their charming, fruit-forward signature.

‘Pomerol is just a bit more generous,’ observed Coggill. St-Emilion was more diverse and patchy at the entry level, with ‘more mediocre, but not necessarily bad wines’, Coggill noted – largely a reflection of its greater size and varied terroirs.

Yet at the top end, its wines frequently displayed superior elegance and finesse, outperforming Pomerol in poise and length.

St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé estates performed strongly, as expected, but Pomerol’s broader success across all price tiers was particularly striking.

Ready to go

The drinkability of these wines is a major strength. Many are already highly approachable – ‘happy wines’, as King put it, that will perform well by the glass in restaurants or on the table at home today.

The judges agreed that roughly half the wines felt ready to drink now, while the remainder offer excellent cellaring potential thanks to bright acidity, concentrated fruit and structured tannins.

King highlighted the ‘velvety’ texture of the Pomerols and their surprising accessibility: ‘There was not much in Pomerol at least that I would say has to be kept.’

Prices reflect the fine-wine status of these appellations; very few of the top-scoring bottles sit comfortably under £30, even in bond (before duty and VAT), indeed the very best top £50.

Yet within this category many represent excellent value, offering the immediate pleasure of a great vintage alongside the structure to evolve magnificently over the next 20-30 years.

Overall, the judges described 2020 as a ‘cracking vintage’ of good-to-excellent wines that offer a combination of generosity and restraint.

For drinkers seeking reliable, characterful Right Bank Bordeaux that can be enjoyed young or cellared with confidence, 2020 delivers in spades.

See all the notes and scores from the St-Emilion and Pomerol 2020 tasting here

The judges

St-Emilion & Pomerol 2020 tasting results

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Heather Dougherty, Lionel Periner and Daphne Teremetz tasted 111 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 37 Highly recommended.

Provence rosé: Panel tasting scores

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 37

Recommended 59

Commended 10

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release rosé wines from any of the APs Côtes de Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Les Baux de Provence, Bandol, Bellet, Cassis, Palette or Pierrevert

'The Bandol region stood out to me'

Provence rosé is a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds, and this tasting treated us to wines ranging in hue from barely coloured, palest blanc de noir, through ‘onion skin’ colour to deep coral pink, reflecting the breadth of styles available.

Nevertheless, the classic Côtes de Provence rosé paradigm of wines that are pale in colour accounted for most of those in this tasting.

When done well, these delicate wines still deliver in terms of flavour. Daphne Teremetz encapsulated what she was looking for as ‘pure, wild strawberry fruit, a creamy-textured palate with a crisp, fresh finish, as well as some delicate fruit flavour on the finish’.

All three judges were expecting consistency, in a style that has come to define the rosé category.

‘Provence rosé has a remarkably consistent identity,’ said Lionel Periner. ‘When people imagine pale, dry rosé, they’re usually picturing Provence.’

A touch of age

Although most Provence rosés are generally destined to be drunk in the summer after they’re made, the fact that four out of five of the wines we rated Outstanding were older vintages shows that, at a certain quality level, there are fine wines being made that age beautifully.

Bandol excelled in this, accounting for two of those five wines scoring 95 or 96 points, flying the flag for often more deeply coloured, ageworthy, gastronomic styles.

Periner expressed his enthusiasm: ‘The Bandol region stood out to me as the most interesting: the wines we tasted showed great freshness in a medium-bodied style, and they would pair beautifully with food.’

The success of Château d’Esclans’ flagship blend Garrus also demonstrated that neither Mourvèdre nor deep colour is a requirement for Provence rosé to age well.

At the other end of the scale, too many wines from the appellations of Coteaux Varois and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence underperformed, showing either a lack of flavour or tartness. In terms of value for money,

Teremetz summed it up: ‘The pricing is far above average – and the best wines absolutely merit that.’

See all notes and scores from the Provence rosé panel tasting

The judges

Provence rosé panel tasting results

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Andy Howard MW, Beatrice Bessi and Robert Mathias tasted 137 wines, with 16 Highly recommended and 80 Recommended

Right Bank Bordeaux: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 16

Recommended 80

Commended 41

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red grand vin from Lussac St-Emilion, Puisseguin St-Emilion, Montagne St-Emilion, St-Georges St-Emilion, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac, Côtes de Bourg, Blaye, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux or Côtes de Bordeaux (APs St-Emilion and Pomerol were not included)

A patchwork quilt of value wines

Although no wines were rated Outstanding (95 points and above), there was still much to enjoy in this tasting.

A wide range of appellations were tasted, generating 16 Highly recommended wines (90-94pts) from eight different appellationss.

APs ranged from those on the opposite side of the Gironde to the Haut-Médoc (Côtes de Bourg, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux); Fronsac and Lalande-de-Pomerol (west and north of Libourne); the St-Emilion ‘satellites’ of Lussac, Puisseguin, Montagne and St-Georges; plus the Castillon, Francs and Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux appellations further east.

The ‘satellite’ APs performed strongly, accounting for 10 of the 16 Highly recommendeds.

Bordeaux continues to offer a unique package for wine drinkers, combining (at the less-exalted level) attractive pricing, capacity to both drink well in youth and age, and a fresh, medium-alcohol style in tune with current trends.

Many of these qualities were on show in these wines.

2023 finds favour

Robert Mathias MW saw plenty of positives: ‘There was a lot of approachability in the recent vintages, and charm in many of the wines. The satellite APs are a good hunting ground for early-drinking, easygoing reds.’

Beatrice Bessi felt there were ‘very pleasant discoveries in Blaye, Castillon, Lussac, Puisseguin and Montagne’.

Merlot (unsurprisingly) dominated the blends in these Right Bank wines and was generally handled well, with subtle, restrained oak (when used).

Château Coucy’s Origines (Montagne) also stood out as a single-varietal Cabernet Franc aged for 11-12 months in amphora.

Considering vintages, Bessi was most impressed by the 2023s, while Mathias noted that in 2022 there were some wines ‘where you saw younger vines and poorer terroirs resulting in some vines being blocked due to the drought’.

However, Mathias concluded: ‘The best wines stood out for their freshness, completeness and energy. While they didn’t reach the heights of more famous APs, they’re still to be commended.'

See all notes and scores from the Right Bank Bordeaux tasting

The judges

Right Bank Bordeaux panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Natalie Earl, Heather Dougherty and Wieteke Teppema tasted 65 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 31 Highly recommended

Picpoul de Pinet: Panel tasting scores

65 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 31

Recommended 17

Commended 14

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their white wines from the Picpoul de Pinet AP in Languedoc, of any style, including latest releases, older vintages and Patience cuvées

Patience a virtue?

This positive tasting offered some surprises and good scores, revealing a category on the move, with more diversity than you might expect from the UK’s favourite pub wine.

Picpoul de Pinet’s dependable (albeit rather homogenous) image has helped sales soar, enabling the wines to become a bottle shop and restaurant staple – especially in its largest export market, the UK, which accounted for more than 55% of its total exports of 9.14m bottles in 2025 (source: French customs, via CIVL).

Both Heather Dougherty and Wieteke Teppema were expecting consistency and a certain uniformity of style: fresh, citrussy and saline. But does this still represent Picpoul de Pinet’s calling card?

In 2018, the appellation introduced ‘Patience’: richer wines with more ageing potential.

Later picking leads to riper fruit, often from older vines; wines are aged for at least six months, often on the lees.

There were some impressive examples here, but others weren’t quite fresh enough to counter their exuberance.

No doubt this new style has opened a discussion around what Piquepoul Blanc – the appellation’s sole permitted variety – is capable of, giving producers license and confidence to be more creative.

So much so that Dougherty noted ‘a blurring of the lines, with extended lees ageing and intensity of flavour found in both Patience styles and regular bottlings’.

'Producers are taking vineyard health and healthy grapes seriously'

Most 2025s hadn’t yet been bottled, so there were 43 wines from the 2024 vintage, against 18 from 2025.

Seven of the 2025s scored below 86pts (the cutoff for Commended), and six had a pink tinge, possibly due to sunburnt grapes following two big heatwaves in August 2025.

Other 2025s were bright and zingy, however.

Despite vintage-specific issues, quality keeps improving and Teppema observed: ‘Most were certified Haute Valeur Environnementale or organic. Producers are taking vineyard health and healthy grapes seriously, helping to raise the overall quality of the wines.’

The three top-scoring wines offer different flavour and texture experiences.

Although a move away from a singular style across the appellation risks confusing consumers, most wines still show the trademark marine character, meaning consumers can still buy confidently at accessible price points.

See all notes and scores from the Picpoul de Pinet tasting

The judges

Picpoul de Pinet panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW, Jason Millar and Stefan Neumann MS tasted 77 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 22 Highly recommended

Unoaked Italian reds: Panel tasting scores

77 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 22

Recommended 45

Commended 5

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit red wines of any vintage from anywhere in Italy, made from grape varieties indigenous to the region of production, either 100% varietal or in a blend containing a minimum 85% of indigenous varieties; no vinification or ageing in oak of any type was permitted

Eschewing the oak

Wooden barrels have been used in the wine industry since Roman times, with producers commonly making use of local woods such as acacia, pine or chestnut.

Over time, oak became the preferred material due to its tight grain and abundance across Europe.

As winemakers recognised its positive influence on tannins and flavours, oak gained dominance in today’s wine industry.

Ripe black fruit flavours mixed with smoky (oak-derived) vanilla equals enjoyable drinking experiences for most consumers.

In the production of reds, winemakers use oak barrels or chips to add flavour and complexity, and to help soften tannins, which begs the question: don’t all red wines have oak?

There are more unoaked red wines made than we might initially realise; often they’re simpler, fruitier wines intended to be drunk young – Beaujolais and young Rioja being notable examples.

Yet no other country has more of an association with unoaked red wines than Italy.

The decision to not use oak is based on the desire to preserve the pure expression of a grape variety, to highlight regional terroir, or to create a fresher, more fruit-driven style.

Vessels such as stainless steel, concrete vats and clay amphorae allow for minimal intervention, letting inherent flavours shine – ‘wines without lipstick’ is how Jason Millar described these wines; completely exposed, without any beautification.

‘Wines that bring an element of joy to the drinker’

For this tasting, 17 of Italy’s 20 regions were represented. Piedmont, Tuscany and Sicily topped the list in terms of entries.

Sangiovese was the most popular variety, followed by Barbera – understandable, given that they’re two of Italy’s most planted varieties.

The main discussion among the judges was whether an unoaked wine could be more than simple and fruity. Could it be complex and have the ‘wow factor’?

The top achievers were simple but also concentrated and delicious expressions – ‘wines that bring an element of joy to the drinker’, according to Stefan Neumann MS.

Ultimately, our question was answered.

Without oak, these wines were capable of expressing purity and a true sense of place. And they certainly had that wow factor!

What to eat with unoaked Italian reds, by Fiona Beckett

So varied are these wines in terms of region and grape variety that it’s difficult to make a generalisation about wine matching, other than to focus on what kind of food unoaked Italian wines might successfully pair with in comparison with oaked wines.

By and large they’re younger, lower in alcohol and less expensive than their oaked counterparts – more for everyday or at least relaxed weekend drinking than fine dining.

In regions such as Tuscany, where red wine is predominantly an unoaked wine, it often takes the place of a white – the go-to with a homely chickpea and rosemary soup, for example, or a simple plate of pasta before moving on to a more serious wine with the meat.

Pizza is another obvious option, which isn’t to diminish these wines – it’s an underrated foil for a simple, well-made red.

With their typically pronounced acidity, unoaked reds are a natural match for salumi and, perhaps less obviously, for fish. There’s no reason why you can’t drink a light Sicilian red such as Frappato with pasta con le sarde (with sardines), for instance, or a Bardolino with some garlicky grilled prawns.

See all notes and scores from the unoaked Italian reds tasting

The judges

Unoaked Italian reds panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Jason Millar, Sara Bachiorri and Abbie Bennington tasted 78 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 46 Highly recommended

Verdicchio: Panel tasting scores

78 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 46

Recommended 24

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their wines from any of the Marche region’s four Verdicchio designations Castelli de Jesi DOC/Riserva DOCG, or Matelica DOC/Riserva DOCG, and from any vintage

'Excellent, interesting and ageworthy’

If you ask an Italophile to name the country’s finest white grape, Verdicchio may more often than not top the list.

A speciality of the Marche region on the Adriatic coast, it remains curiously underappreciated, given its consistency, versatility and capacity to age.

This panel tasting confirmed Verdicchio’s character and quality across the board.

As Sara Bachiorri observed, the wines showed that this variety can be ‘excellent, interesting and ageworthy, as well as great value for money’.

The highest-scoring wines span a wide stylistic spectrum.

Fresher, more youthful examples offer green and red apple, pear and white pepper flavours, often with an appealing hint of chicory or radicchio, while the more mature wines show yellow plum, quince and resinous herbs, yet retain a striking sense of youthful energy.

Of the two principal production zones for Verdicchio in the Marche region, Castelli di Jesi DOC is far larger than its inland neighbour, Matelica DOC – but average quality across both was high.

See all notes and scores from the Verdicchio tasting

The class of classico

The strongest showing in Jesi comes from Classico-designated wines, drawn from the historic hillside vineyards around Cupramontana, which consistently deliver greater depth and definition.

The wines from Matelica, located further inland, in the foothills of the Apennines, stand out for their combination of concentration, vibrant acidity and a lightly grippy texture that make them especially food-friendly.

Abbie Bennington noted that, ‘the wines of Matelica really do live up to the hype’.

Both zones are also able to produce Riserva DOCG wines, which require extended ageing and show Verdicchio’s capacity to evolve over time.

This category in each case delivers some exceptional wines, including two of our highest scorers.

For those keen to explore Verdicchio, Castelli di Jesi Classico DOC and Matelica DOC remain the most reliable starting points.

While bargains exist, pricing is generally sensible with many of the best-performing wines clustered in the £15-£29.99 range.

Combined with consistently high quality and no rush to drink the wines, the feeling is that it’s hard to go wrong with Verdicchio.

The judges

Verdicchio panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Thierry Meyer, Vincenzo Arnese and Claire Thevenot MS tasted 81 wines, with 2 Exceptional, 8 Outstanding and 54 Highly recommended

Alsace grand cru Riesling: Panel tasting scores

81 wines tasted

Exceptional 2

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 54

Recommended 14

Commended 3

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry Riesling wines from any Alsace grand cru, from both the 2012 and 2022 vintages

Terroir and temperature to the fore

This was a highly successful tasting in which 79% of the entries scored 90 points or more, including two Exceptional wines (see recommendations, below), and an impressive 22 scored 93-94pts.

The high scores were evenly distributed between the two vintages: 2022 and 2012. The vintages’ distinct climatic characters were on show, as well as strong terroir typicity from certain grands crus – it was an insight into how different terroirs performed across different climatic conditions.

And while reputed growers produced wonderful wines in both vintages, the tasting showed that lesser-known houses also produced very good, more affordable wines.

In the hot 2022 vintage, hilltop vineyards and marl-based terroirs were particularly successful.

Grands crus such as Furstentum, Rangen, Schlossberg and Zinnkoepflé, with areas at higher elevations, up to 400m or more, were less affected by the heat.

Most wines with character from this vintage are already drinking well. In contrast, 2012 was cooler and more classic, and only wines from fully ripened fruit have evolved positively.

‘The quality across both vintages was remarkable’

While several wines with a straightforward Riesling expression had already begun to fade and simply tasted like ‘old Riesling’, those that had achieved full ripeness continued to display great character, with the added aromatic complexity that comes from ageing.

As Claire Thevenot MS pointed out: ‘Alsace grand cru wines must possess a combination of terroir minerality and fruit from the grape itself; a balance of tension and fruit is key to their ageing potential.’

‘The quality across both vintages was remarkable,’ said fellow taster Vincenzo Arnese. ‘The wines showed excellent drinkability and highlighted the enormous potential of the Alsace grand cru appellation.’

Furstentum, Hengst, Kitterlé, Rangen and Schlossberg are among the most renowned of the 51 Alsace grands crus, known for their distinctive terroir character. Some of the best producers showcased this mineral character in both vintages.

Overall, if the varietal Riesling aspect dominates the wine, it may be advisable to consume them relatively quickly.

The judges

Alsace grand cru Riesling 2022 and 2012 panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Jason Millar, Roger Jones and Victoria Mason MW tasted 90 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 45 Highly recommended

South African red blends: Panel tasting scores

90 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 45

Recommended 32

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red blended wines involving any grape varieties, excluding Pinotage, sourced from any region in South Africa

'Consistently high quality'

As exciting and dynamic as South Africa’s new-wave wines can be, this tasting showed that there’s still a huge amount of character, quality and value to be found in the Cape’s more traditional grape varieties.

Stellenbosch blends based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc formed the majority of the wines submitted and were by far the dominant category when it came to the top scores.

The best of these were concentrated, fresh, balanced and structured, exhibiting the steadily increasing quality and confidence of Cape winemaking.

Stylistically, many of these wines were closest to cru classé Bordeaux in sensibility, with some erring towards Napa in their luxuriousness.

Yet most were a fraction of the price of either.

As Roger Jones remarked: ‘Overall, the entries were of a great standard, but what was especially impressive was the price range of the topscoring wines.’

Victoria Mason MW highlighted ‘the consistently high quality across a multitude of vintages with very different characteristics’.

With our nine Outstanding wines (95-96 points) spanning 2020-2023, she noted that many of the best wines possessed ‘inherent energy and brilliant freshness to temper their ripe fruit and natural power’.

Rhône-inspired beauties

Rhône-variety blends also performed well, although in South Africa, the finest fruit from these vineyards tends to go into varietal wines rather than blends.

Even so, Mullineux’s Kloof Street Red, Swerwer’s Swartland Red Blend, Beaumont’s Raoul’s Red Blend and Brookdale’s Mason Road (see recommendations) are high-scoring (93-94pts) and keenly priced arguments for not overlooking

Cape blends based on varieties such as Grenache Noir. South Africa may be the fashionable place to seek out top-notch Syrah, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it’s also firing on all cylinders when it comes to more classic red blends.

In fact, they’ve never been better. If you’ve been snoozing on South African wine, it’s time to wake up and grab your corkscrew.

What to eat with South African red blends, by Fiona Beckett

Given the stellar showing of the classic South African Bordeaux blends, there’s a strong argument for drinking them with meals with which you would be inclined to reach for a claret, or even a Napa Cabernet, with which lead judge Jason Millar makes a favourable comparison.

That’s to say classic roasts of beef and lamb, steak or, for vegetarians, grilled Portobello mushrooms, a pairing I picked up from former sommelier, now winery owner Larry Stone.

Given the price point, they would also be a good companion for a gourmet burger, particularly a cheeseburger, and with the richness and ripeness of the fruit, they could handle a bit of spice, too.

You could think of drinking them with dishes such as the stir-fried chilli ribeye beef I had with a full-bodied Cabernet at Hunan in London’s Pimlico recently.

As far as the Rhône-style blends are concerned, think more in terms of the last slow-cooked braises and stews of the winter, transitioning to early and high summer barbecues – or braais, of course. What better match for a Saffer?

See all notes and scores from the South African red blands tasting

The judges

South African red blends panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Beth Willard, Matthew Forster MW and Andrew Johnson tasted 86 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 31 Highly recommended

Spanish Viura/Macabeo: Panel tasting scores

86 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 31

Recommended 46

Commended 5

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their wines produced entirely or predominantly from Viura/Macabeo/Macabeu (maximum 15% of any other varieties) from anywhere in Spain

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Viura/Macabeo panel tasting

‘These deserve praise’

Some tasting days are better than others and this flight of Viura-based wines started with a highlight: the very first wine turned out to be one of the day’s best, scoring 95 points.

Despite its inherent flavour neutrality, Viura went on to show off its adaptability and ageing potential in this diverse tasting of one of Spain’s most important white varieties.

The majority of the wines in the tasting came from Rioja and the region starred, with solid quality across the board. Eight of the top 10 wines were Riojan in origin and underwent oak ageing, as well as further development in bottle.

These wines displayed appealing palate weight, gaining complexity over time while maintaining the region’s hallmark freshness. Viura’s ageing capacity really thrilled the judges.

Andrew Johnson was struck by the considered winemaking. ‘There are some wonderful examples of aged styles done with care,’ he explained. ‘These deserve praise’

Likewise, Matthew Forster MW was encouraged by the winemakers’ stylistic choices. ‘I was braced for oak, but we found contemporary styles,’ he said. ‘Even with heavy oak, the wines are balanced.’

The joy of divergence

But the wines weren’t limited to a hegemony of style. An interesting point of comparison came by way of low-intervention and skin-contact wines from Catalonia.

A brisat (skin-contact wine) from Montsant featured among the top performers (see recommendations): a wine that shows off its Mediterranean character with ripe stone fruit and dried herbs, such as thyme and rosemary.

And two skin-contact wines from Costers del Segre (Recommended, both scoring well at 89pts, so not featured in this report but available via the link to decanter.com further down), offered up heady aromas of quince and marmalade, supported by vibrant tannic energy.

So, while Rioja, with its cooler, higher-elevation terroir, dominates the list, there are wonderfully characterful whites from Spain’s coastal zones, demonstrating Viura’s quiet plasticity.

Like a dark and broody Scandi noir TV series that slowly unravels but reveals little in the first few episodes, Viura can also deliver a killer punch with time and patience.

What to eat with Viura/Macabeo wines, by Fiona Beckett

Given that we’re mainly talking about white Rioja, many of our suggested pairings are going to be familiar: rich fish such as hake or turbot, shellfish such as seared scallops or grilled lobster, and substantial pork dishes would all sit comfortably with these older, more complex wines.

But the freshness of many of the wines indicates that they could be partnered with lighter fish and vegetable dishes.

As we’re heading towards spring, white asparagus, artichokes, Spanish spring vegetable stews such as menestra and ravioli stuffed with seafood would all be good options.

Some of the wines were quite different, though – the oxidative Panorámico O (see recommendations), for example, which could, like a vin jaune, be partnered with roast chicken and morels, umami-rich Japanese broths and aged cheeses such as Manchego and Comté.

Skin-contact wines, which also featured in this tasting, are more akin to a red wine when it comes to pairing and could take you off in a different direction: Middle Eastern food, tagines, grilled lamb – maybe a typical Valencian paella. Viura, as the judges found, is your flexible friend.

See all notes and scores from the Viura/Macabeo tasting

The judges

Beth Willard is a wine communicator and judge with a particular passion for the wines of Spain. A regular contributor to Decanter and one of the five Co-Chairs of the DWWA, she is also a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino

Matthew Forster MW is a wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he has a passion for the wines of Spain, Portugal and South America

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters and also heads his own project, Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Viura/Macabeo panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Beth Willard, Eugenio Egorov and Matthew Forster MW tasted 98 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 63 Highly recommended

Priorat 2021 vs 2022: Panel tasting scores

98 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 63

Recommended 27

Commended 3

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their dry red wines classified as DOCa/DOQ Priorat from the 2021 and 2022 vintages

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Priorat 2021 vs 2022 panel tasting

Opposites attract

Vintage variation can be likened to different musical styles.

Taylor Swift, for instance, provides instant gratification, while Rosalía requires more thoughtful consideration, but both are outstanding in their own right.

In this panel tasting we compared the wines of Priorat from the two very different vintages of 2021 and 2022, one subtle and discreet, the other a little more obvious, but each expressing the region through unique interpretations.

In general, the cohort of 2022 wines offered immediate appeal, with bright, juicy fruit and ripe tannins, while the 2021 vintage wines tended to be fresher and more structured, with good ageing potential.

These characteristics seem to correspond to the vintage conditions, which varied greatly.

Drought and extreme heat marked the growing season in 2022, although the older Garnacha and Cariñena vines proved how resilient and adaptable they are when they experience tough conditions.

‘Serious knowhow’

In contrast, 2021 was altogether cooler, with lower temperatures and significantly more rainfall, which lowered alcohol levels appreciably.

Eugenio Egorov noted the ‘fresher and balanced wines from the cooler 2021’, but equally appreciated the approach to the warmer 2022 vintage.

‘The 2022 wines offer great fruit character,’ he explained. ‘There is more winemaking to balance the difficulties experienced in the vineyards, but the approach taken is heading in the right direction, with less over-oaking and more purity of fruit.’

The quality of winemaking was also noted by Matthew Forster MW. ‘Priorat is established – there’s a lot of serious knowhow, and the number of wines scoring 90 points or higher speaks to their credibility and quality.’

In particular, Forster highlighted the personality of the wines. ‘It is great to see stylistic diversity – the region is so much less homogenous than before.’

Certainly, vintage discussions aren’t redundant, but with serious winemaking skill and knowledge, the region’s more problematic years can be tamed and result in delicious wines.

Perhaps one day Rosalía – a native of Catalonia – might not just sing about Sauvignon Blanc but also the outstanding wines of Priorat!

What to eat with Priorat wines, by Fiona Beckett

Should different vintages dictate different wine pairings? I guess it depends how far apart they are. You might well go for a different match with a younger wine than an older one, but should you take into account vintage conditions?

No more so, I’d suggest, than wines from different producers who favour a particular style. It’s also a question of personal taste – is it better to pair a hearty stew with an equally intensely flavoured wine or a lighter wine for refreshing contrast?

That said, Priorat is a wine I would turn to for the last roasts and braises of winter, particularly with dishes such as ox cheek and short rib, and look forward to opening with the first barbecues of spring and summer. They are definitely wines for carnivores.

They’re also good wines to serve with a cheeseboard, especially with stronger cheeses such as vintage cheddar and punchy blues, of which the Spanish have some great examples, such as Picos and Cabrales, although you might turn to the more structured 2021s for those.

So maybe you do need to take account of vintages after all…

See all notes and scores from the Priorat 2021 vs 2022 tasting

The judges

Beth Willard is a wine communicator and judge with a particular passion for the wines of Spain. A regular contributor to Decanter and one of the five Co-Chairs of the DWWA, she is also a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he is particularly passionate about the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America

Priorat 2021 vs 2022 panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Caroline Gilby MW, Ana Jackson MW and Igor Luković tasted 128 wines, with 12 Outstanding and 30 Highly recommended

Southeastern European reds: Panel tasting scores

128 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly recommended 30

Recommended 63

Commended 23

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still, dry red wines made from 100% indigenous grapes and/or traditional regional grapes, including blends, from specified countries in the southeast of Europe

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southeastern European reds panel tasting

A sea change in style

With 12 Outstanding wines across five countries, involving seven local grapes, this was a fascinating, diverse and high-scoring tasting.

It also provided a strong signal that the whole region of 10 nations – under the broad umbrella of ‘southeastern Europe’ – is coming of age and offers lots of exciting options for adventurous wine drinkers.

The results gave a clear message that indigenous varieties, once written off as plodding workhorses, can deliver both global quality and wines with real personality and distinct differences that reflect each country.

It should give producers a boost, showing they can have real confidence in native varieties and don’t have to rely on adding Merlot or Cabernet.

Ana Jackson MW was impressed by the high quality across the board.

‘It was great to see the versatility of grapes and to see real freshness in some of the Outstanding wines. And where there is oak, it’s good oak, unlike a few years ago,’ she said.

‘Teran was a highlight among the top-scoring wines, and the Kabola amphora wine (see recommendations) deserves a special mention. The Probus grape was a real discovery, too.’

Igor Luković agreed. ‘I was impressed with the consistency of the wines – fewer mistakes and the traditional, rustic, over-oaked styles are disappearing in favour of far more modern and precise winemaking,’ he said.

‘I expected Teran to shine, and it delivered. But I also admired Prokupac, and I think that Frankovka (or Blaufränkisch) has a great future in southeastern Europe and should be planted more widely.’

The judges agreed that the next challenge is how to promote these unfamiliar wines, though the results showed that this region is a treasure trove of exciting and delicious discoveries.

What to eat with southeastern European reds, by Fiona Beckett

The combination of what are likely be unfamiliar grape varieties with the unfamiliar cuisines of their home countries might sound daunting but could prompt some exciting experiments.

Certainly there’s no lack of quality among these wines, particularly Croatia’s Teran, which is traditionally paired with wild boar, venison and other game, rich fatty meats and Paški sir, a salty sheep’s cheese from the island of Pag.

So it should equally work with more familiar, slow-cooked Greek, Turkish and Lebanese meat dishes and salty Greek cheeses such as feta.

Vranac should work with similar dishes, especially braises and stews, while Prokupac lends itself to roasts and grills, being a particularly good pairing, according to Serbian sommelier Vuk Vuletić, for the local ćevapi (skinless minced-meat sausages), served with an ajvar (red pepper) sauce.

Emboldened by that touch of spice, I would be inclined to try Georgian and other Central Asian dishes, and even Indian roasted or grilled meats. These robust reds would pair well with foods cooked over coals.

See all notes and scores from the southeastern European reds tasting

The judges

Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is DWWA joint Regional Chair across several categories

Ana Jackson MW is head of wine business development for Amathus Drinks and was formerly head buyer at Oddbins for more than 12 years. She is keen to promote less-familiar wine categories and is a DWWA judge for the Southern & Eastern Mediterranean category

Igor Luković is editor in chief at Vino & Fino magazine in Serbia. A wine writer, consultant, judge and events manager, he is a DWWA judge and president of The Balkans International Wine Competition jury

Southeastern European reds panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Alex Hunt MW, Roger Jones and Beth Pearce MW tasted 80 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

80 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 39

Commended 9

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, 100% Chardonnay still wines produced in any of Australia’s cool-climate regions

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our cool-climate Australian Chardonnay panel tasting

Regionality on show

It has been said that Chardonnay represents one of the clearest and most precise lenses through which we can view terroir, and this impressive tasting offered ample evidence to support that assertion.

The affinity between Australia and Chardonnay is well established, of course, so expectations were high before this tasting.

On the other hand, however, there have been times when this particular lens has proved to be ill-focused, with regional differences blurred either by too-obvious winemaking or by the terroir-masking fallacy of early picking.

Not so on this occasion, with all three of the judges discovering commendably distinct regional expressions.

Beth Pearce MW commented that ‘more than ever, the wines seem to be showing a sense of place rather than simply reflecting the winemakers’ preferences for reduction and/or ripeness’.

This would be academic were the wines not delicious, but happily there was much to enjoy here on a hedonistic level, too.

Roger Jones noted: ‘It was good to see high marks from across the regions,’ and the fact that 40% of entries scored 90 points or above demonstrates that our high expectations were borne out.

A rich and diverse palette

The most reliably excellent region was Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, with wines that combined beguiling texture with a zesty energy and an ability to age.

Jones observed that wines from here ‘need a bit longer to evolve, but when they do, they certainly develop well, balancing perfume, gunflint as well as delicate ripe stone fruit’.

Meanwhile, Margaret River in Western Australia showcased its trademark blend of density, complexity and freshness, which Pearce found ‘very impressive, effortless in its power and quality, particularly in the 2023 vintage’.

At their best, Tasmania’s steely tension and the Burgundy-esque poise of the Yarra Valley in Victoria drew admiration from the panel, while the standout surprise was Geelong, another Victorian sub-region.

Pearce praised its ‘confident balance’, and the entries from here showed that regardless of whether the wines are from a young or more mature vintage,

Geelong offers a characteristic energy, grip and aromatic profile that combine to make these some of the country’s most thrilling expressions of the Chardonnay grape.

What to eat with cool-climate Australian Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

Chardonnay is such a blissful pairing for so many dishes that the only question is, how far do you push the boat out with the food?

With the lovely acidity of these cool-climate wines, seafood would be my first port of call, especially for younger vintages – I’m particularly thinking in terms of grilled lobster, langoustines and seared scallops, or a luxurious fish pie.

Chicken, of course, is another reliable go-to. A simply roasted bird with delicious, umami-rich, crisp skin would be heaven for older vintages, as would fried chicken (perhaps American-style rather than Korean), with a cream gravy – in fact, virtually anything creamy is spot-on with Chardonnay, especially when topped with pastry, as in a chicken pot pie. That might sound too homely, but simple is what to aim for with wines of this quality.

There are also, of course, vegetables that are particularly Chardonnay-friendly, such as corn, butternut squash (especially with sage) and braised fennel; and mushrooms, too (especially in a risotto). In short, tomato- and red wine-based sauces aside, it’s pretty hard to go wrong.

See all notes and scores from the cool-climate Australian Chardonnay tasting

The judges

Alex Hunt MW is purchasing director at London-based merchant Berkmann Wine Cellars. He became a Master of Wine in 2010, and was awarded the Bollinger Tasting Medal that year. A seasoned wine judge, his writing has appeared in a number of prominent titles, including Decanter

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge (including for DWWA) and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities

Beth Pearce MW is the recently appointed head of buying at Flint Wines. Her extensive experience in the wine industry includes roles in retail and buying at Majestic and most recently buying director at Lay & Wheeler

Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Eugenio Egorov and Roger Jones tasted 112 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 64 Highly recommended

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting scores

112 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 64

Recommended 37

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, minimum 85% Cabernet Franc wines from single, designated vineyard sites anywhere in the southern hemisphere

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting

Expectations exceeded

There’s so much history associated with Cabernet Franc. The monks at Bourgueil abbey in the Loire valley began cultivating the grape in the 11th century. By the 18th century, it was renowned for producing exceptional wines in Bordeaux.

Fast forward to today and, following our tasting of 112 examples from the southern hemisphere, Eugenio Egorov could hardly contain his enthusiasm: ‘This tasting was a revelation; there were so many great wines.’

The statistics support his excitement. Ten wines were rated Outstanding and 64 wines Highly recommended – an impressive performance, especially for a variety that historically often played a supporting role in blends.

Roger Jones concurred: ‘In the past, Cabernet Franc was herbaceous, rustic and challenging. However, this new wave of styles from the southern hemisphere is exciting.’

Latin American renaissance

As illustrated by the number of submissions, South America has enthusiastically embraced the variety, with Argentina leading the way. In a country dominated by and best known for Malbec, Cabernet Franc is increasingly prized for its perfume, harmony and freshness.

‘Producers should follow the lead of those in New Zealand and South Africa, who travel frequently in search of knowledge,’ said Jones.

The results for the latter underline his point: of 13 entries, four were rated Outstanding and seven Highly recommended.

Cabernet Franc’s journey across the southern hemisphere has revealed its adaptability in the vineyard, versatility in the cellar and ability to make delicious, refreshing wines with complex, distinctive aromatic profiles.

The results of this tasting reveal that there has never been a better time to explore Cabernet Franc, a variety with a strong heritage and so much to offer.

What to eat with southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, by Fiona Beckett

When it comes to southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, it’s best to put out of your mind the idea that it’s a variety that produces light, crunchy, herbaceous reds.

Examples from countries such as South Africa and Argentina are far more typically full-bodied, Bordeaux-style wines to drink with classic red meat dishes – from grilled butterflied lamb to beef or venison Wellington. (The latter not least because mushrooms are a good match with it, particularly with older vintages.) They should also be able to handle a touch of spice, even a lamb curry.

Drink them when you’ve bought a beautiful piece of beef, save it for friends who enjoy a generous red, treat the family to a bottle when you’re cooking a classic Sunday roast or a homemade steak or ox cheek pie – the joy of these Cab Francs is just how enjoyable they are, and how affordable.

With their ripe fruit and supple tannins, they’re also good wines to bring out with a cheeseboard, even taking washed rind cheeses and blue cheeses in their stride. They’re definitely food-friendly.

See all notes and scores from the southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc tasting

The judges

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, educator and consultant working around the world. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors, qualifying in 2008 as the first Master of Wine from Brazil

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Tom Hewson, Eugenio Egorov and Sarah Knowles MW tasted 79 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 50 Highly recommended

Blanc de noirs Champagne: Panel tasting scores

79 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 50

Recommended 26

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release blanc de noirs Champagnes (made from 100% red grapes: Pinot Noir and/or Meunier)

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our blanc de noirs Champagne panel tasting

Celebrating Champagne’s heritage

Although Chardonnay is a mainstay of Champagne today, making blanc de noirs – or ‘white from black’ – from black-skinned Pinots is written in the region’s DNA.

The practice of gently pressing the bunches whole in order to extract almost no colour from the skins was a speciality in the time of Dom Pérignon (17th century), and today the Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes – especially (but not uniquely) from the regions of the Montagne de Reims, Marne Valley and Côte des Bar – yield a fantastic diversity of styles.

Among the wines scoring 90 points or more in this tasting were plenty of familiar growers and small houses.

Yet it was also exciting to discover the fine performance of lesser-known, limited-edition cuvées such as those from Boizel (see recommendations), Jacquart and Piper-Heidsieck.

Prominent houses such as Cattier and Nicolas Feuillate offered fine, approachable styles with a touch of toasty, buttery richness, while plenty of independent estates offered precise, invigorating and dry options.

High-end

‘The quality was, broadly speaking, very good,’ says Sarah Knowles MW.

‘We had very few poor wines at all in a large lineup. I also found the diversity of styles particularly interesting – from more traditional, long-aged, plum-scented wines through the more reductive styles (which I particularly enjoyed) and out to the more elegant, brighter wines.’

Eugenio Egorov was similarly impressed by the broad diversity of styles.

‘While the rich, Pinot-driven character is the signature of the blanc de noirs style, the influence of the winemaker plays a big role,’ he notes.

‘Through masterful choices in vinification and dosage, a vast spectrum of expression is possible. We encountered everything from rich, vinous Champagnes to elegant, precise and highly approachable cuvées.’

With plenty of top wines from the excellent 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages, which are all currently on the market, there’s no doubt that it’s a particularly good time to explore Champagne’s Pinot heritage.

What to eat with blanc de noirs Champagne, by Fiona Beckett

The Champenois have always paired Champagne with food, but many people still think of it purely as an aperitif wine – a wine for parties and other celebrations.

Not grower Champagnes, and not blanc de noirs, which are much more serious, complex wines that can happily be enjoyed through a meal.

Their typically rich toastiness makes them a natural for roast chicken, a richly creamy risotto with truffles – almost anything umami (think dishes with white miso and sesame). And because they’re effervescent – they share this with other Champagnes – they work with almost anything fried, including chips!

Lighter, fresher styles will work with seafood, especially grilled lobster and scallops.

In general, I find it helps to think of hot food rather than cold with wines of this weight and quality, though they would be spot-on with a pâté en croûte or rare roast beef.

In a restaurant, they’re perfect with the luxury snacks that increasingly kick off a meal, especially with anything on toast or in pastry. Oh and don’t forget Vacherin Mont d’Or; it’s a sublime cheese match for a blanc de noirs.

See all notes and scores from the blanc de noirs Champagne tasting

The judges

Tom Hewson correspondent for Decanter and Decanter Premium online, and a DWWA judge. A jazz musician, he writes on sparkling wine more broadly on the Six Atmospheres Substack

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Sarah Knowles MW is a buyer for The Wine Society, covering categories including Champagne. A DWWA judge, she has been a Master of Wine since 2015 and previously worked in buying for on-trade specialist Amathus Drinks

Blanc de noirs Champagne panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Abbie Bennington, Melania Battiston and Federico Moccia tasted 73 wines, with 9 Highly recommended and 59 Recommended

Maremma Toscana: Panel tasting scores

73 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 9

Recommended 59

Commended 5

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red, white or rosé wines from the Maremma Toscana DOC

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Maremma Toscana panel tasting

A profile deserving elevation

Despite a viticultural history that dates back to the Etruscans, Tuscany’s Maremma region still flies under the radar.

Quietly ascending as a regional powerhouse, it remains largely overshadowed by its more celebrated Tuscan neighbours.

Yet beneath this understated veneer, Maremma forges a distinct identity, producing wines that reflect its coastal terroir and spirit of tradition and innovation.

With its varied climate and cool sea breezes, the Maremma fosters a remarkable stylistic range, from rich yet fresh whites to traditional and maverick fruit-driven reds and rosés.

Varieties such as Vermentino, Sangiovese and the local Ciliegiolo thrive here.

Yet while we had high expectations for this tasting, the results fell regrettably short. Among the 73 wines tasted, a handful stood out, but top scores reached 92 points and Outstanding ratings (95pts plus) proved elusive.

Rosé out in front?

As Federico Moccia noted, the whites were ‘overall well made, a good price and showed freshness on the nose and crunchy fruit’, yet the overarching impression was of a diversity of styles rather than uniform excellence.

The rosés particularly left an impression, demonstrating balance, elegance and nuance, challenging traditional perceptions of the regional style.

They drew praise from Melania Battiston, who said: ‘I was surprised the most by their high quality. I would encourage Maremma to do more rosés – I think it really fits here.’

Moccia added: ‘We found some flashy rosés, but some others were really interesting, showing oxidative notes on the nose and some savoury notes – a bit more mushroom.’

The reds we tasted gave immediate pleasure, and demonstrated ageing potential, but for the most part, scores remained in the high-80s.

With its array of distinctive, well-made bottlings, Maremma is an exciting frontier in Tuscany offering accessible, characterful wines.

It’s increasingly earning recognition as an affordable and dynamic force in Italian wine.

What to eat with Maremma Toscana, by Fiona Beckett

With its diversity of styles, it’s difficult to come up with reliable go-to pairings with Maremma’s wines, but if Chianti makes you think of classic Italian cooking, Maremma might lead you more in the direction of more international dishes.

The Cabernet Sauvignon – or Cabernet Franc – dominated blends, for instance, will go with the usual suspects for those grape varieties – roast lamb, steak and rich portobello mushrooms; but maybe with an additional element, cooked over fire, say, or incorporating some kind of spice, such as a Korean bulgogi.

Among the whites, especially Vermentino, there’s the obvious option of seafood from the nearby coast. Spaghetti vongole is a much-loved pairing, but you might want to go for a fine piece of grilled fish, seared scallops or a big seafood platter.

And with rosé being taken ever more seriously as a gastronomic wine, you could think in terms of rare roast veal or lamb, or Asian-inflected seafood dishes such as tuna tartare – or perhaps an unctuous, creamy burrata with grilled peaches.

See all notes and scores from the Maremma Toscana tasting

The judges

Abbie Bennington is a wine educator, writer, consultant and judge. She runs her own tasting and wine business ABVTastings, offering private and corporate events, and is currently chair of the Association of Wine Educators

Melania Battiston is wine director at Michelin one-star Cornus in London. Hailing from Lombardy, Italy, she’s a CMS Advanced Sommelier and runs Mel CnC, her own consultancy company for hospitality and brands

Federico Moccia is head of wine operations at member’s club 67 Pall Mall in London. Originally from Brescia in northern Italy, he is an advocate for Italian wine, as well as a DWWA judge and a contributor to decanter.com

Maremma Toscana panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Matt Walls, Gearoid Devaney MS and Fiona Hayes tasted 46 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 26 Highly recommended

Northern Rhône: Panel tasting scores

46 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 9

Commended 2

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2015-vintage red wines from any northern Rhône appellation

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our northern Rhône panel tasting

Poised and raring to go

It’s an easy sequence to remember: ’05, ’10, ’15, ’20.

All were great vintages in the northern Rhône, but some – particularly 2005 and 2010 – have been agonisingly slow to mature.

This enjoyable tasting of nearly 50 wines from 2015 showed that the vintage deserves the hype that it received on release. What’s more, most of them are opening up and drinking well already.

The preceding winter was rainy, topping up the water table. Spring was damp, too, and warm; the season got off to an early start.

All of that water proved crucial, as 2015 turned out to be the hottest year on record after 2003. Yields were generous and the grapes were in perfect condition at harvest.

Despite the summer heat, the style of 2015 can be described as remarkably classic.

Fiona Hayes said: ‘I was expecting a warmer profile, but overall they were very well balanced… with a lot of freshness.’

Appellation analysis

The 2015 Crozes-Hermitage flight was remarkably strong. ‘You often think that Crozes-Hermitage doesn’t age well, but this showed that it does,’ said Hayes.

At 10 years of age, none were over the hill. Even better were the St-Josephs, which yielded three Outstanding wines.

‘A really strong flight overall,’ according to Gearoid Devaney MS. ‘Some really good expressions of Syrah – freshness, elegance and good balance.’

The Côte-Rôtie flight, though impressive, was more mixed in style; when the oak was in balance, there were some thrilling wines to enjoy.

While the 2015 Côte-Rôties are largely ready now, the best Hermitage wines need a little longer – but the quality there is even higher.

Certain styles proved divisive. More delicate wines, such as Domaine Belle’s Hermitage and Pierre-Jean Villa’s Côte-Rôtie Fongeant, were scored at 95 or 96 points by one or two judges but not all.

Most contentious was Jean-Michel Stéphan’s atypical, carbonic-maceration Côte-Rôtie So’Brune, which was both adored and not-so adored.

Overall, with an impressive nine Outstanding from 46 wines, this tasting proved that 2015 is a vintage that has lived up to its potential – and is now just beginning to deliver on its promise.

What to eat with northern Rhône Syrah, by Fiona Beckett

With most Rhône wines in restaurants coming from recent vintages, it’s most likely that you’re going to be drinking any older vintages at home.

But what should you pair them with? It depends of course on the appellation.

There’s a considerable difference pricewise between a Crozes-Hermitage and a Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie, which will no doubt make you think you ought to up your game with the latter pair, although there’s an attractive rusticity to mature Crozes that will satisfy any yearning for hearty grills and stews or good, meaty sausages.

With the finer wines you’re more likely to be looking at a roast – maybe salt-aged beef or a roasting joint from a herd of older cattle, mutton rather than lamb, or a haunch of venison.

Game, of course, is excellent with mature northern Rhône wines. Pheasant or grouse, maybe, rather than more delicate partridge – or a rich game pie.

A cheeseboard, too. Older wines are more mellow and less angular than younger ones, so they’re more accommodating when it comes to pungent, strongly flavoured cheeses.

See all notes and scores from the northern Rhône panel tasting

The judges

Matt Walls is a Contributing Editor to Decanter and the DWWA Regional Chair for Rhône. His latest book, The Smart Traveller’s Wine Guide to the Rhône Valley, is available now from Académie du Vin Library, priced at £12.99

Gearoid Devaney MS is an awarded sommelier, a director at London-based merchant Flint Wines and co-founder of restaurant Cabotte in the City. He has also worked at Michelin three-star Pierre Gagnaire in Paris and became a Master Sommelier in 2009

Fiona Hayes is a buyer at The Wine Society, responsible for categories including Rhône. She has worked at Fields Morris & Verdin and Berry Bros & Rudd, and was a buyer for European wines at Lay & Wheeler until early 2024

Northern Rhône panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Caro Maurer MW, Mark Dearing and Stefan Neumann MS tasted 58 wines, with 2 Exceptional, 6 Outstanding and 30 Highly recommended

Spätburgunder: Panel tasting scores

58 wines tasted

Exceptional 2

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 30

Recommended 16

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still, dry red wines made from Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) only, from any region in Germany

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our German Spätburgunder panel tasting

Warming vineyards

It may not sound politically correct, but German wine regions are still benefiting from climate change.

Spätburgunder – literally translated as ‘late Burgundy’, otherwise known as Pinot Noir – is one of the main winners in the rising temperatures.

Warm vintages such as 2018, 2019 and 2020 have already brought noticeable ripeness and a marked rise in quality.

The 2022 vintage was another standout, with German Spätburgunder earning recognition among the world’s best.

‘The wines from the 2022 vintage in particular were outstanding today,’ said Stefan Neumann MS after tasting these 58 Spätburgunder wines.

Growth potential

Unlike Riesling, Spätburgunder is still a ‘niche product’ in Britain, according to Mark Dearing. This is despite the fact that Germany cultivates 11,519ha of Pinot Noir, according to the Federal Statistical Office.

With a total cultivation area of some 120,000ha worldwide, the country ranks third, just behind France (about 32,300ha) and the US (about 25,000ha).

The grape variety can now be found in all 13 quality wine-growing regions – and thus thrives on a variety of soils: limestone as well as slate, red sandstone, basalt, loess or Keuper.

‘The wines have expressed their different regional characteristics very strongly,’ said Dearing. Neumann was particularly impressed by examples from the Ahr and Rheinhessen regions.

In contrast to the past, ‘the fine-tuning today is spot-on’, he added. ‘It’s the small differences in the handling of acidity, extraction and oak ageing’ that have led to the excellent results in this tasting. And you don’t need to spend a fortune:

‘The quality is consistent across all price ranges,’ Dearing said. The tasting’s biggest surprise was a 96-point Spätburgunder from Mosel (see recommendations). ‘Mosel shows enormous potential – the cool climate and slate soils create a distinctive style,’ said Dearing.

‘This,’ Neumann added, ‘is where elegant, fresh, vibrant wines are made – the kind you’ll want a second glass of.’ ‘German Spätburgunder should be on the radar of every wine lover who appreciates expressive, terroir-driven Pinot Noir,’ Dearing said in conclusion.

What to eat with Spätburgunder, by Fiona Beckett

Given the quality of Germany’s Spätburgunder wines, it’s worth erring on the extravagant side of possible food pairings. Fillet steak or beef Wellington, for example, rather than ribeye or venison; raw or seared meats such as carpaccios and tartares. (That applies to tuna, too.)

That said, it also works well with the cured, sometimes smoky meats and sausages you find in Germany.

There is also the reliable go-to of duck and other game birds. Partridge would be particularly fine. Thanks to the richness of many Spätburgunders, they can handle a bit of spice, too. Five spice, which you find in Chinese duck dishes, is particularly Pinot-friendly.

At this time of year there are also mushrooms of all kinds – a mushroom risotto is an excellent foil for a good Spätburgunder, ditto a mushroom stroganoff. Older vintages would be ideal for an autumn dinner party.

Spätburgunders are also generally easier to pair with cheese than Burgundy, especially with bloomy, white-rinded cheeses such as brie and the excellent British Baron Bigod.

See all notes and scores from the Spätburgunder panel tasting

The judges

Caro Maurer MW is a German food and wine writer, a WSET- and MW-level educator, and the DWWA Regional Chair for Germany. She contributes to Bonn’s daily newspaper General-Anzeiger and food and wine title Der Feinschmecker

Mark Dearing is a wine buyer for London-based merchant and importer Justerini & Brooks, where his responsibilities include Germany, as well as numerous other major wine nations and regions

Stefan Neumann MS is a Master Sommelier who runs his own wine consultancy, having spent many years working in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants. Born close to Austria’s Wachau region, he is the DWWA Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland

Spätburgunder panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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• Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut: Unearthing Germany’s exciting eastern regions
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Michael Garner, Andrea Briccarello and Jason Millar tasted 75 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 28 Highly recommended

Valpolicella Classico: Panel tasting scores

75 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 28

Recommended 36

Commended 8

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release Valpolicella Classico red wines, including Rosso and Superiore

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Valpolicella Classico panel tasting

The effect of altitude

The Valpolicella Classico production area begins some 20km east of lake Garda, where the river Adige bends eastwards above Verona.

The Classico zone centres on three main valleys, running from west to east: Fumane (relatively tight, spicy wines), Marano (more open and vibrantly fruity) and Negrar (fuller-bodied and slightly rounder).

The further from the lake, the incrementally warmer the temperatures become.

The ‘altitude effect’ is omnipresent: in broad brushstrokes this means the higher the vines are grown, the lighter the body and the lower the alcohol, while acidity levels tend to increase.

Widespread appeal

This enjoyable tasting focused on two of the area’s five separate denominations: regular Valpolicella Classico (aka ‘annata’, the standard wine of the vintage) and the more ambitious Classico Superiore, which has higher alcohol levels and is aged for longer before release (minimum 12 months in all).

On the whole, the Classico Superiore wines fared better. Andrea Briccarello preferred the ‘much deeper and intense wines’, though Jason Millar favoured the more youthful style for ‘an irresistible springiness better enjoyed early than aged away’.

Something I noted myself was a clear difference between Classico’s youthful vigour and cherry-infused primary fruit sensations and the restrained, elegant and nuanced – even ethereal – characters of more ageworthy Classico Superiore.

Both styles nonetheless retain the freshness and balance that are the hallmarks of fine Veronese reds, and thereby offer ‘plenty of choices to the consumer’, according to Briccarello.

It’s interesting to note that most of the top-scoring wines were made solely from freshly picked grapes, rather than with a proportion of semi-dried (appassimento) fruit.

The latter is permitted by the DOC regulations but, in my view, it blurs the lines between Valpolicella and the appassimento-based wines of Valpolicella: Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto.

All three judges found the overall standard across these wines to be consistently good, with Millar maintaining that ‘Classico is one of Italy’s great affordable reds’.

What to eat with Valpolicella Classico, by Fiona Beckett

Valpolicella might not reach the heights of other Italian reds on its own merits, but as an accompaniment to food, it’s a charming and delicious companion.

It, of course, goes with antipasti and many pasta dishes – the surprise being how well it pairs with spaghetti al limone.

It’s also – and this isn’t to denigrate it – a great wine to drink with pizza and is particularly delicious with calves’ liver, including the classic fegato alla veneziana.

Taking it out of Italy, it’s one of those versatile reds that helps you out when everyone is ordering something different, as it also works with fish – even sushi for the lighter styles – and with a range of different vegetable dishes, including tricky-to-match grilled artichokes.

Given its cherry flavours, it’s a natural with duck, too. Try it with smoked duck – or smoked chicken come to that – or with soft cheeses, especially mozzarella and burrata.

Finally, and keep this in mind for Christmas, Valpolicella would be the perfect wine to crack open with a Boxing Day spread or a turkey sandwich!

See all notes and scores from the Valpolicella Classico panel tasting

The judges

Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines and the DWWA Regional Chair for Northern Italy. He is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2017)

Andrea Briccarello is senior business development manager at Jascots Wine Merchants. Formerly head sommelier and wine buyer at Galvin restaurant group, and a brand manager for Bisol Prosecco, he is a DWWA judge for Northern Italy, Veneto and Piedmont

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on South Africa and Italy. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Valpolicella Classico panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Jusden Aumand, Zach Geballe and Amanda Reed tasted 63 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 34 Highly recommended

US Grenache: Panel tasting scores

63 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 34

Recommended 25

Commended 0

Entry criteria: producers were invited to submit their current-release red Grenache wines, made using at least 75% Grenache, from any US appellation

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our US Grenache panel tasting

Grenache Noir, known as Garnacha in Spain and Cannonau in Sardinia, is the seventh most widely planted wine grape in the world, according to the most recent data from the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine).

But how often does one drink it as the star of the show? Over the centuries, Grenache has mostly been relegated to appearing in blends, sometimes in unspecified quantity, with other grape varieties.

Those blends have ranged from very basic table wines to some of the most prestigious wines in the world, such as those of Priorat in Catalonia, Spain and Châteauneufdu-Pape in France’s Rhône valley.

In the last 40 years, however, we’ve seen an increasing number of examples of Grenache proffered solely on its own merit. And more recently, in the last decade or so, the renown of Grenache bottled as a single varietal has really gained momentum.

In the USA, this trend has been spearheaded primarily by California, Oregon and Washington state, generally in hotter regions where Grenache can naturally ripen later. An abundance of sunshine is ideal for this thin-skinned charmer.

Mesmerising variety

Grenache is quite adaptable, as experienced in this tasting of 63 wines. Cooler climates and higher elevations generally keep the alcohol levels reasonable.

The result is more red-fruited offerings marked by restraint, balanced acidity and judicious use of oak. Conversely, in warmer regions, Grenache shifts closer to intense black fruits and lots of extraction, density, alcohol and power.

In many instances, extended ageing before release helps balance these wines for the long term. The wines that achieved higher scores from the judging panel, regardless of style, had a few things in common – in particular, clarity and purity of fruit.

Grenache can ripen beautifully and yield juicy, succulent red and black fruit flavours and aromas. Furthermore, the complexity that highlighted herbal and floral characteristics in the fruit was commended by the judges.

Top examples of Grenache, wherever they’re from, can reveal mesmerising displays of garrigue or dried herbs, purple flowers, black tea and so on. Combinations and variations of these characteristics really enrich the complexity and dimensionality of Grenache and were celebrated by our panel.

What to eat with US Grenache, by Fiona Beckett

Elegance and restraint aren’t words commonly associated with Grenache, but as this tasting demonstrates, a new generation of wines are emerging that exhibit just those qualities.

How does this affect wine pairing? Does it mean abandoning the usual go-tos with Grenache: hearty roasts, braises and stews? Well, no, and Grenache is still a useful wine to field with a rich sauce, gravy or jus.

It has always been a great wine to drink with the Thanksgiving and Christmas turkey and sides, and I can’t see that changing. At this time of year, though, it’s more likely you’re going to drink it with grilled or even smoked meats – Grenache is great with American-style barbecue, pit-roasted meats, for example.

And if smoke, then why not spice? I’d happily drink Grenache with chilli-rich Mexican meat dishes such as birria, or with Morocco’s mrouzia, a dark, honey-laced tagine.

More modern, light Grenaches work well with similar dishes to those that go with Pinot Noir – a rack of lamb, say, or even duck, which is offset really well by Grenache’s plummy flavours.

See all notes and scores from the US Grenache panel tasting

US Grenache panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jusden Aumand is head of buying for Tri-Vin Imports in New York. Introduced to the world of fine wine as a drummer while on tour with Lenny Kravitz, he has judged wine competitions in Australia, France, England and the USA. He also writes for the Slow Wine Guide

Zach Geballe is a long-time wine writer with several years’ experience as a sommelier, bartender and wine director. Based in Seattle, he is currently co-host and producer of the VinePair podcast

Amanda Reed is a sommelier and director of beverage for Seattle’s E3 Co Restaurant Group, which includes the prestigious Metropolitan Grill steakhouse and Elliot’s Oyster House. Her career began in San Francisco’s restaurant scene

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Amanda Barnes MW, Florencia Gomez and Benjamin Gubbins tasted 150 wines, with 17 Outstanding and 99 Highly recommended

South American premium white: Panel tasting scores

150 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 17

Highly recommended 99

Recommended 31

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were requested to submit their dry white wines from any South American country and region, including all Geographical Indications, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$20. Skin-fermented wines from white varieties were also welcome.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our South American premium white panel tasting

While South America is still best known for its reds, this tasting proved just how exceptional the continent’s white wines have become.

What made the tasting so exciting was its wide scope, highlighting the remarkable diversity of styles, varieties and terroirs shaping the continent’s white wine scene.

Of the 17 Outstanding wines, seven were Chardonnay, reflecting growing refinement in the variety. As Flor Gomez noted, the best examples were ‘modern, without ever lapsing into excess’.

Another standout category was Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, which scooped several top scores. ‘They were a real revelation,’ said Benjamin Gubbins, ‘with outstanding quality and character.’

White blends with Rhône and Criolla varieties also shone, as did several Uruguayan Albariños, which Gomez described as ‘full of varietal precision and charm, deserving of a spot on any serious seafood restaurant’s list’.

Beyond the varietal and regional spread, the tasting reflected impressive creativity in the cellar. More than a dozen of the wines showed some flor influence (biological ageing under a surface layer of yeasts), lending a saline edge and linear drive – a quality I think particularly benefits these sunny climates.

Others embraced long ageing in oak foudres or clay amphora. ‘It was a dynamic, wildly enjoyable flight that showed technical mastery and adventurous spirit,’ added Gomez.

Gubbins agreed, noting the relative absence of duds: ‘My overall impression was one of consistent quality and refinement – and no shortage of creativity!’

We were delighted by the combination of classics and wines with individuality and flair. There was not only breathtaking diversity, but also remarkable value for money.

As the high scores reflect, South America’s premium whites are definitely worth getting excited about.

What to eat with South American white wines, by Fiona Beckett

So many different styles of wine scored highly in this tasting that it’s impossible to suggest matches for them all, so let’s take a look at some of the less common ones.

Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon blends, for instance, might well be the ones to turn to with Peruvian-inspired cooking, which often blends Japanese and other Asian influences with local seafood and other indigenous ingredients.

Scallops would be a particularly good pairing. Albariño is also a reliable go-to with seafood (try it with moqueca, Brazil’s iconic seafood stew), while aromatic Torrontés comes in useful with ceviche (better, typically, than with citrussy whites such as Sauvignon, which can clash with the citrus in the marinade).

Wines that exhibit some flor influence generally develop an umami character that works well with Japanese food, while amphora-aged and other skin-contact wines could well be ones to sip with empanadas.

There’s so much creativity in these wines, you can afford to be experimental with the pairings.

See notes and scores for more high-scoring wines from our South American premium white tasting

South American premium white panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes MW is a wine writer, presenter and consultant. Author of the awarded South America Wine Guide (£35 southamericawineguide.com), she is a regular Decanter contributor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile

Florencia Gomez is the founder of London-based wine brand marketing agency Grand Crew Studio. A qualified and internationally experienced winemaker, she is also a DWWA judge across South American categories

Benjamin Gubbins is general manager at Vagabond Wines and heads its WSET education programmes in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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Caroline Gilby MW, Stefan Neumann MS and Wieteke Teppema tasted 87 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 36 Highly recommended

Blaufränkisch: Panel tasting scores

87 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 38

Recommended 30

Commended 13

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry red wines made in Europe from Blaufränkisch (single variety or blended, but Blaufränkisch must be 50% or more of the blend)

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Blaufränkisch panel tasting

Terroir transmitter

This great central European red grape often goes under the radar thanks to its multiple names.

Austria has led the way in showcasing Blaufränkisch, but Hungary, where it’s called Kékfrankos, is by far the biggest grower (6,983ha, compared to Austria’s 2,550ha, according to the countries’ most recent annual reports to July 2024) and is catching up rapidly.

These two nations provided most of the entries for this tasting, along with a handful from Germany (as Lemberger), Slovakia (Frankovka) and Romania.

Blaufränkisch is increasingly showing its mettle as an exciting, food-friendly grape capable of producing delicious, ageworthy wines that can reflect place.

Wieteke Teppema explained: ‘It has the capacity to show transparency of terroir, it can get lovely minerality and not every indigenous variety can do this. Blaufränkisch is edging into a territory where it can be considered a top variety.’

Stefan Neumann MS was ‘impressed that it can be a fantastic solo player with site-specific expression’. For him, ‘a standout was the Eger and Balaton flight, where oak is so well managed – a tricky thing with Blaufränkisch to allow the fruit to shine’.

Neumann also noted Austria’s Neusiedlersee and Leithaberg regions as offering ‘the right poise of elegance and not trying to over-extract’, adding: ‘Some of the best wines had age but hadn’t lost fruit.’

A fine dancing partner

The judges were also impressed by the role of Kékfrankos in blends (it’s the key grape in Hungary’s PDO Bikavér, of which there are five examples among the Highly recommendeds here).

Teppema enjoyed ‘the combination of international grapes with Kékfrankos – a lovely complement to the structure and mid-palate in those blends’.

Compared to Sangiovese/Brunello in Tuscany, Neumann found that the wines typically showed: ‘Red and sour cherry, black fruit, with a floral perfume and, in some higher crus, a meaty iodine character.’

Teppema summed up: ‘From a UK on-trade perspective, there’s a lot I’d be happy to list and share with guests.

What to eat with Blaufränkisch, by Fiona Beckett

The striking thing about many of the top-scoring wines in this tasting is that they’re from older vintages, so we’re looking for dishes that pair well with mature wines.

That generally means simple roast meats rather than spicy casseroles, although the more robust, earthy, structured and oak-influenced style of Kékfrankos would work well with a classic goulash.

Otherwise, think well-aged beef, venison, even wild boar, or roast duck or goose – especially with red cabbage – making them, perhaps, wines that would work better in autumn than high summer.

Yet there are lighter styles of Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos that would work with summery foods: cold meats such as salami and smoked ham, grilled sausages (it’s hard not to think of barbecuing at this time of year), kebabs and koftas.

Both Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos can handle a bit of spice. More traditional, full-blooded Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) blends are probably best saved – and maybe incorporated in – hearty winter stews or robust dishes such as beef short rib and braised ox cheek.

See all notes and scores from the Blaufränkisch panel tasting

Blaufränkisch panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is a DWWA joint Regional Chair in multiple categories

Stefan Neumann MS is a Master Sommelier who runs his own wine consultancy, having spent many years working in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants. Born close to Austria’s Wachau region, he is the DWWA Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland

Wieteke Teppema is director of wine for Brown’s Hotel in London. A wine buyer and competition judge, including for the DWWA, her career spans top Michelin-starred restaurants and specialist wine importers

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• The Greek grape varieties you should be drinking

Lenka Sedlackova MW, Ana Jackson MW and Terry Kandylis tasted 59 wines, with 2 Highly recommended and 21 Recommended

Aegean island whites: Panel tasting scores

59 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 21

Recommended 35

Commended 1

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still whites, dry and sweet, made using indigenous varieties only, from any island within the Aegean sea

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Aegean island whites panel tasting

History meets modernity

The Aegean islands, between the Greek mainland and Turkey to the east, are a historical treasure trove of ancient and rare grape varieties, some of which were referenced as far back as Minoan (Dafni) and Homeric (Limnio) times.

This exceptional tasting showcased the remarkable diversity and high quality of many of these indigenous grapes.

The overall quality was high: something I find with Greek whites in general.

Importantly, winemakers are now embracing the distinct characteristics of these Greek native varieties.

Where oak and other winemaking techniques once overshadowed the grapes’ identities, a more restrained, hands-off approach is now emerging.

Characterful rather than technical styles were the clear winners of this tasting.

As Ana Jackson MW remarked: ‘Lesser-known Greek grape varieties really shone. These wines showed real character and also lower alcohols, which is very much on trend.’

The flagship grape still reigns?

Unsurprisingly, entries were dominated by Assyrtiko, Greece’s most renowned grape. It is widely planted and expresses itself in many styles.

Even so, Santorini continues to set the standard for Assyrtiko, producing benchmark examples – even in difficult vintages.

As Terry Kandylis observed: ‘The past few vintages in Santorini were very challenging, and this was reflected in the wines. I liked the fact that the highest-scoring wine is an Assyrtiko blend.

‘In my opinion, the other grapes help tame Assyrtiko’s intense character and make the wine more approachable.’

The tasting also emphasised that Vidiano from Crete firmly deserves its place among Greece’s most exciting – and versatile – white grapes.

Our second-highest scoring wine was an acacia-aged Vidiano, notable for its purity, aromatic finesse and balance.

Aegean island whites are certainly worth seeking out. Their combination of intriguing flavour profiles, saline acidity and moderate alcohol content offers an appealing and modern interpretation of these ancient grape varieties.

What to eat with Aegean island whites, by Fiona Beckett

We tend to think mainly of France in terms of terroir-based food and wine pairings, but Greek wines are just as well suited to the country’s foods.

Dry white wines dominate on the islands and go brilliantly with their simple seafood-and vegetable-based cooking.

The best known example is Assyrtiko, which, when young, sharp and saline, is perfectly suited to raw or grilled seafood such as calamari, but when serious and weighty – as it often is on Santorini – is an ideal foil for lobster or whole, wood-roasted fish.

Greek whites such as Assyrtiko and Crete’s Vidiano also work well with Greek meze (the small sharing plates that kick off a meal), but then they would also work with Mexican food such as fish tacos and guacamole, or with garlicky prawns.

Vidiano is also great with spanakopita and other dishes based on horta (the Greek word for greens).

You can also drink more serious, structured island whites with lamb (just think how it’s often seasoned with lemon in Greece), especially if cooked over coals, which makes them a great choice.

See all notes and scores from our Aegean island whites panel tasting

Aegean island whites panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Lenka Sedlackova MW is head of brand management at Bancroft Wines. She has a particular passion for Greek wines, is a DWWA Senior Judge and is on the judging panel for the Great Greek Wines project

Ana Jackson MW is head of wine business development for Amathus Drinks and was formerly head buyer at Oddbins for more than 12 years. She is keen to promote less-familiar wine categories and has been a DWWA judge since 2011

Terry Kandylis is group head sommelier at Noble Rot in London, and the DWWA Regional Chair for Greece, Cyprus & Malta. In 2015, he earned the title of Best Sommelier in Greece, then won Moët UK Sommelier of the Year in 2016

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• Catalonian whites: Panel tasting results

Luis Gamiz, Andrew Johnson and Pierre Mansour tasted 174 wines, with 7 Outstanding and 69 Highly recommended

Catalonian whites: Panel tasting scores

174 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 69

Recommended 89

Commended 9

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry white wines from any DO or DOCa in Catalonia. Wines without a Geographical Indication (Vino de España) were considered if produced in Catalonia with grapes grown in Catalonia

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Catalonian whites panel tasting

A walk on the white side

Our ambition for this comprehensive tasting, covering all of Catalonia’s DOs and IGPs, was to highlight a different side to a region better known for its reds.

Alongside DOs where white wines are indeed the specialism and focus (Penedès, Alella, Pla de Bages), there was also a strong showing from counterparts where reds reign (Priorat, Montsant, Terra Alta and the like).

‘The whites from Montsant were a real surprise,’ said Pierre Mansour. ‘As a buyer it made me look at the region differently. It is producing world-class whites that consumers should explore.’

Unsurprisingly, entries were heavy on wines from Penedès, but the top-scoring line-up reflects the diversity and quality found across Catalonia.

For Luis Gámiz, the tasting showed ‘a region where the [white] category is rapidly developing, with producers making interesting “new old styles”’ by exploring local varieties and terroir diversity. ‘The DOs are all levelling up,’ he concluded.

Andrew Johnson agreed: ‘It was nice to see a good spread at the top. It shows that there’s innovation and ambition in smaller DOs, such as Pla de Bages, which people might not expect to see next to Penedès, Montsant or Priorat [at the top of the table].’

Native varieties to the fore

The baseline quality and value were also important takeaways. ‘We would at times have liked to see a bit more character and difference,’ said Johnson. ‘But there’s great consistency. We tasted so many wines that people would buy today, and go back for the following week.’

Mansour stressed the ‘strong individuality of the best wines, particularly those produced with local varieties’. He was particularly taken by the Macabeus, Garnacha Blancas and some of the Xarel·los – ‘Real standouts for me,’ he said.

While these grapes were dominant, Forcada, Malvasia de Sitges, Pansa Blanca, Parellada and Picapoll also featured – an indigenous viticultural wealth being newly appreciated and reinterpreted by producers across Catalonia.

Overall the tasting showed that, as Johnson put it, ‘Catalonian whites are in very good shape’. ‘There’s so much for consumers to discover,’ Gámiz concurred. The outcome of this tasting challenges us all to seek them out.

What to eat with Catalonian whites, by Fiona Beckett

Reading the report of this tasting made me wonder why we don’t drink Catalonian whites more often – they have so much to offer at the table. 

There are variations of course, but in general there’s a weighty character to the wines, especially the Garnacha Blanca, which makes them white wines that can do duty for a red. 

Given we’re in Spain, pork would be an obvious starting point. That said, it’s an area where there’s a lot of seafood, so do think about fish and shellfish, especially wood-roasted or cooked over coals: whole fish such as turbot cooked in a wood-fired oven, big juicy gambas, seared squid and grilled razor clams would all go brilliantly, as would a big hearty seafood stew or mar y montana (‘sea and mountain’) dishes, which combine meat and seafood, such as chicken with langoustines. 

This type of wine is also great with typical Spanish rice dishes: not so much paella – or what passes for paella – but richer dishes such as lobster rice or arroz negro (black rice), again with seafood.

Click here for more Catalonian white wines that have featured in Decanter panel tastings

Catalonian whites panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Luis Gamiz is business and product development manager and Spanish wine buyer at Indigo Wine. He has extensive experience in the wine industry, having previously held positions at Alliance Wine, The Knotted Vine and Vinoteca

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters and also heads his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Pierre Mansour is director of wine at The Wine Society, having bought the Society’s Spanish wines for nearly 20 years. He is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and a DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain

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• Vintage English sparkling wine: Panel tasting results

Susie Barrie MW, Simon Field MW and Rebecca Palmer tasted 85 wines, with 8 Outstanding and 42 Highly recommended

Vintage English sparkling wine: Panel tasting scores

85 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 8

Highly recommended 42

Recommended 29

Commended 6

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release traditional-method sparkling wines (brut and drier styles only) produced in the United Kingdom using grapes sourced from a single vintage and labelled as vintage from the last 10 years (2014 and beyond)

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Vintage English sparkling wine panel tasting

Going from strength to strength

Numerous recent tastings have demonstrated very clearly, to my mind, that the quality of UK sparkling wine is well and truly in the ascendant. This line-up was no exception.

As Simon Field MW stated afterwards, it was ‘a fascinating and successful tasting’. In terms of style, as Rebecca Palmer said, ‘blanc de blancs was a real standout’.

This was also true of Chardonnay-dominant blends – something that came as no surprise given the quality of Chardonnay that the UK has in recent years proved itself capable of producing.

The high-scoring rosés were also impressively characterful and expressive, reinforcing my belief that this is another style that UK producers are increasingly mastering. The bulk of the wines came from the 2018 and 2019 vintages, closely followed by 2020 and 2021.

In general, the older vintages (of which there were admittedly fewer) performed less well, though 2016 was the anomaly, with two of the three wines entered achieving an Outstanding rating.

Given the UK’s marginal climate, you’d be forgiven for assuming that vintage variation must play a significant role when it comes to wine quality.

How encouraging to find that this wasn’t the case and that the skill and ambition of our winemakers is such that even ‘poorer’ vintages can and do yield fabulous wines. For the record, and to illustrate this point, we each chose a different vintage as our current favourite.

What this tasting demonstrated above all is that winemaking approach and technique often have a greater impact on style and quality than vintage, or indeed region.

Oak in particular was often present, to a greater or lesser extent, in the better wines, with Field rightly stating that ‘an impressive tally of the Outstanding wines used oak’. Extended lees ageing was also a recurrent theme in the top-scoring wines.

These are wines that we would definitely recommend you buy. Several are ready to drink now, but the better ones will also keep and develop, and bring pleasure for years to come.

What to eat with vintage English sparkling wines, by Fiona Beckett

Given that English sparkling wine is of a similar quality to Champagne these days, is there anything to say about partnering them with food, other than that they’re likely to work with similar dishes to Champagne? 

Well, here are some thoughts about the standout styles – blanc de blancs and rosé – looked at from a British perspective. 

The first is that the former would be great with our excellent seafood – especially shellfish such as lobster, crab and scallops; also, given that we Brits are particularly good at them, with a fish pie or maybe, at this time of year, salmon en croute – sparkling wine has a real affinity with pastry. 

When it comes to rosé, think of a summery Sunday lunch with rare roast fillet of beef or a butterflied leg of lamb, again rare; it’s the rareness that makes red meat work so well with a delicate sparkling wine. 

And don’t overlook the great pairing of mature fizz with white-rind cheeses, of which the UK has some impressive examples in Baron Bigod and Tunworth.

Vintage English sparkling panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Susie Barrie MW is an awarded writer and broadcaster. As well as being a co-chair of the WineGB Awards, she is co-host of the acclaimed

Wine Blast podcast and her book titles include The Essential Guide to English Wine (IWFS, 2018)

Simon Field MW was formerly a buyer for merchant Berry Bros & Rudd and now writes on areas that particularly interest him, including

Bordeaux, Champagne, the Rhône, Spain, the Loire valley and fortified and English wines

Rebecca Palmer is associate director and head of merchant buying for Corney & Barrow, covering most world regions, as well as managing key projects such as sustainability. A longstanding DWWA Senior Judge, in 2025 she judged on the UK and Asia panels

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Peter McCombie MW, Victoria Daskal and Eugenio Egorov tasted 117 wines, with 39 Highly recommended and 65 Recommended

Jumilla: Panel tasting scores

117 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 39

Recommended 65

Commended 13

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still, dry (or off-dry) red, white (including skin-fermented) and rosé wines from DO Jumilla

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Jumilla tasting

More than a one-trick pony

Despite a viticultural history that dates back to the Phoenicians, Jumilla remains one of Spain’s lesser-known wine regions.

Those familiar with the DO likely know of the harsh, dry conditions – in which Monastrell [Mourvèdre]  thrives, producing sturdy, ripe, powerful wines. Yet there’s more to Jumilla.

To the north, at higher elevations, the climate is continental, with dramatic diurnal temperature swings, while to the south and east, closer to the Med, conditions are milder and more typically Mediterranean.

This climatic range, alongside varied vineyard exposures and distinct sub-zones, permits a broader range of styles than the casual observer might expect.

While it was no surprise that varietal reds made from Monastrell dominated the tasting, there was also a good showing of Monastrell-dominated blends, other varietal wines, including Garnacha and French imports Syrah and Petit Verdot, some rosés and some white wines.

Pound for pound credentials

Victoria Daskal found the Monastrells ‘consistently good quality and good value across a range of styles’.

These were ‘vibrant, juicy wines bursting with black fruit, perfect for immediate enjoyment. Even more compelling were the higher-scoring, more mature expressions… already showing depth and complexity.’

Syrah was an eye-opener for Daskal, who found ‘dark, brooding character[s]… more reminiscent of the northern Rhône than the warmer regions where Syrah is often grown’.

The judges also found Jumilla evolving beyond its reliance on robust red wines.

Eugenio Egorov noted a dynamic shift in the quality of the white wines, finding ‘interesting freshness and linearity, [and] exciting potential’.

While very ripe fruit is a given in Jumilla, the majority of the wines weren’t overripe and they retained freshness.

The use of oak was light-touch, with wines either unoaked or aged in larger, less influential barrels; the wines that were aged in barriques showed balance.

The tasting revealed Jumilla moving beyond conventional expectations and offering a compelling proposition for value-conscious consumers eager to discover a region embracing innovation and delivering consistent quality.

See all recommendations from the Jumilla tasting

What to eat with the wines of Jumilla, by Fiona Beckett

Despite the variety of styles revealed by this tasting, it’s likely to be the bolder, full-bodied reds you’re going to come across.

Spanish food is the most obvious option, starting with grilled lamb and, in that part of Spain, an authentic paella. (Not, as is fashionable, combining meat and seafood, but chicken and/or rabbit and snails. Make that a meaty paella with chorizo for most of us!)

Monastrell also works really well with Moroccan and Middle Eastern food – think big platters of slow-cooked shoulder of lamb and grilled vegetables, especially aubergines (eggplant) and peppers.

It has an affinity with spices such as cumin, coriander and Aleppo pepper, so is definitely the wine to pull out when you’re working your way through an Ottolenghi cookbook.

Thinking ahead to autumn and winter, it would also be a good pairing for the hearty bean and chickpea dishes at which the Spanish excel, such as fabada Asturiana and the ribsticking Madrid dish cocido madrileño. Jumilla is great with morcilla.

Jumilla panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter McCombie MW is a London-based speaker, educator, consultant and writer. Born in New Zealand, he’s an authority on the wines of Italy and Spain, and has judged widely including for the DWWA

Victoria Daskal is a wine writer, presenter, consultant and WSET educator. In 2008, she completed the OIV MSc in International Wine Management, and among other things has since worked for Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and as managing editor of The World of Fine Wine

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and the USA before moving to London, where he worked as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester

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Georgie Hindle, Vincenzo Arnese and Robert Mathias MW tasted 55 wines, with 11 Outstanding and 28 Highly recommended

Médoc grand cru classé 2016: Panel tasting scores

55 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 11

Highly recommended 28

Recommended 16

Commended 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2016 vintage red wines from any appellation in the Médoc, including grand cru classé and second wines

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Médoc grand cru classé 2016 tasting

Positive outlook

It’s fair to say that expectations were high going into this Left Bank grand cru classé tasting, with the 2016 vintage hailed as one of the region’s finest in recent decades, celebrated for its balance, structure and ageing potential.

What began as a wet, soggy spring turned into a long, hot and exceptionally dry summer with refreshing rains just before ideal harvest conditions set in.

The result: concentrated reds with ripe tannins, bright acidity and intense fruit, drawing comparisons to 2005 and 2010 but distinguished by vibrant freshness.

A clearly successful tasting, with 20% of wines achieving the Outstanding rating, reassuringly identical to the St-Emilion GCC 2016 panel tasting in our 2023 Bordeaux guide (with 11 outstanding out of 59 wines).

Robert Mathias MW noted: ‘There’s a really good minimum level of quality. I maybe expected a little more charm, but equally I do like the seriousness of the 2016s.

‘Tannins are a bit chunky, sometimes heavy-handed in extraction and oak, yet freshness and balanced alcohol were positives. The best were excellent. I think 2016 is the first vintage in the new “modern” era of Bordeaux.’

Secondary rewards

Mathias highlighted St-Julien’s consistency and northern Médoc’s strength (Margaux was more variable), adding: ‘Second wines are drinking now, for sure, and for another five years, which is impressive, while the grands vins are more muscular and tightly coiled.

‘These are impressive wines which are fun to open to see how they develop in the glass,’ he continued. ‘But there’s not necessarily a rush to pull the cork on many of the top cru classé wines – in fact they’re quite closed.’

Vincenzo Arnese agreed: ‘Second labels are more approachable and ready now. There were a few dry wines but also real freshness across the board, with low alcohols. Some wines truly shone – and they’ll have impressive ageing abilities.’

The tasting underscored 2016’s excellence, and yet not everything was perfect.

Roughly 10% of the wines showed faults, notably cork taint and oxidation – a significant reminder of the challenges posed by traditional closures, even at the highest level.

See all recommendations from the Médoc grand cru classé 2016 tasting

What to eat with Médoc 2016, by Fiona Beckett

Given the judges’ conclusion that many of these wines are still quite closed, it’s going to be a question of what food would go best with the second wines at the moment.

Does the ‘new era of Bordeaux’ mean a new era of food pairing? Not necessarily – it’s still hard to beat the classics – but there is a growing realisation that many of the cuisines that might have been regarded as inimical to appellations such as St-Julien, Margaux and Pauillac are no longer so.

Dishes like Korean bulgogi or braised short rib, for instance. Of course, there’ll always be a place for these wines with what I would call gentleman’s club food: homely dishes like steak pie and shepherd’s pie.

Top Bordeaux can shine with a fair amount of rusticity, too. I’ve enjoyed Pauillac with cassoulet.

Traditional options are so familiar that it’s easy to overlook the elements that can throw or skew a mature wine.

An over-reduced jus, a hotter-than-usual horseradish sauce or a strongly flavoured vegetable such as red cabbage can all take their toll on a good bottle. Avoid if you can.

Médoc grand cru classé 2016 panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Georgia Hindle is Decanter’s Regional Editor for Bordeaux, and Editor of Decanter Premium online

Vincenzo Arnese is the director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year

Robert Mathias MW is senior buyer at wine merchant Lay & Wheeler, having previously worked in similar roles for Bordeaux Index and Bibendum Wine. He is a Senior Judge for Bordeaux and Burgundy at the DWWA

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Jason Millar, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 13 Highly recommended

South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends: Panel tasting scores

43 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 13

Recommended 23

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit the latest vintage release of their premium Cape red blends containing Pinotage

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends panel tasting

Idiosyncratric and historic

This was a small but illuminating tasting of a category that harks back to the turn of the century.

At that time, South Africa’s winemakers were searching for a uniquely Cape-accented answer to internationally popular Bordeaux and Rhône blends.

Naturally, they turned to Pinotage – a variety created in, and then almost exclusively sold to, the Cape – which provided a way to distinguish South Africa’s red blends from those of other regions.

Pinotage is a tricky grape that has struggled to find its identity as a varietal wine, but our tasting suggested that it does work well in a blend.

‘Many of the wines were improved by having Pinotage,’ Roger Jones observed. ‘Blending may be a good way forward for the variety.’

However, with proportions of Pinotage ranging from 97% to 10% in our tasting, Cape blends vary widely in composition.

The two Outstanding wines reflected this diversity. In ArtiSons’ JJ Hand Made Wines’ Eight Pillars, Pinotage plays a minor role alongside seven other varieties, acting as a welcome seasoning in a rich, layered wine, adding woodsmoke and meaty savour.

In contrast, the Orpheus & The Raven No42 features Pinotage as 51% of the blend, alongside its parent varieties Pinot Noir and Cinsault, in a style that emphasises perfume and delicate fruit.

Among the Highly recommended wines, Pinotage was almost always the dominant variety, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot as popular blending partners.

Most wines were aged in barrel, though Andy Howard highlighted the ‘surprisingly restrained oak’ in the best examples.

Regardless of the specific blend, the category showed a broadly consistent style – marked by generous dark fruit, savoury spice and sweet oak.

Yet the best examples impressed the judges with their finesse and assured winemaking. As Howard concluded: ‘There is a much more refined character to many of these wines than might be expected.’

What to eat with South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends, by Fiona Beckett 

It’s hard to avoid the clichés when it comes to Pinotage, even in a blend. 

The most obvious answer is a braai, as South Africa’s distinctive barbecue cooking is known, and of course that’s spot on, particularly where the more full-bodied styles are concerned. They can absolutely handle the Cape Malay spicing. 

Where else could you take them? Well, India for a start. In fact ArtiSons, the producer of one of our Outstanding wines, specifically recommends north Indian curries, and I’d be tempted to add a raan (spiced roast leg of lamb). 

Other styles of barbecue are another obvious go-to – anything slow braised and cooked in a pit would work. Or, more conventionally, in a casserole – fashionable ox cheek for instance. 

You could also enjoy these wines with meaty pizzas and flatbreads, such as Turkish lamb-stuffed lahmacun. 

More simply, they’ll be spot on with a steak or a Sunday roast, and, it goes without saying, with cheese, including challenging washed rind cheeses and punchy blues. Open a bottle with your next cheeseboard.

South Africa Cape red blends panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs

his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

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Elizabeth Gabay MW, Natasha Hughes MW and Joanna Simon tasted 115 wines, with 12 Outstanding and 44 Highly recommended

Provence whites: Panel tasting scores

115 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly recommended 44

Recommended 36

Commended 23

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release white wines from any part of the Provence region and at any price

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the Provence whites panel tasting

Stepping out of Provence’s rose-tinted shadow

Provence white wines aren’t (yet) well known outside the region, notes Natasha Hughes MW, but they’re growing in popularity. This tasting showed enough potential to make it a category of interest.

With the rosés of Provence becoming increasingly pale, white wine could be seen as a natural progression; there was even one blanc de noir in the tasting.

Some producers claim that technological knowledge gained from making rosé (such as temperature control and more reductive winemaking) has improved the region’s white wines. However, it wasn’t evident from the tasting that white wines inspired by rosé were the best way to go.

Joanna Simon felt that producers needed ‘to stand back and look at their white wines in the context of other white wines’, noting that ‘many of them are applying rosé winemaking to the wines as if they’re going to sell them to the same consumers as their rosés’.

A hotbed of cellar experimentation

The best wines in the tasting showed richness, intensity, greater ripeness and ageing potential, while just over half were white versions of their rosé siblings, with young, reductive, crisp, crunchy white fruit.

The least successful provoked comments that they tasted as if picked underripe, resulting in green acidity, and were driven by a yeasty character. Simon felt that in ‘a region of this size, there is room for two styles’.

We would have liked to see more evidence of terroir or regional character in the wines that were based on the Rolle grape (known in Italy as Vermentino).

In terms of regions, Bandol stood out as the most exciting, and by default marked Clairette as an interesting variety. Cassis, the white wine appellation of Provence, was something of a disappointment.

The use of oak, amphorae and cement containers created complexity and texture, noted Hughes, who felt that ‘it was not individual regions or varieties that stood out, but the producers who had enough confidence in their terroir and their winemaking to create wines with a real sense of identity’.

See all recommendations from the Provence whites tasting

What to eat with Provence whites, by Fiona Beckett

Why drink Provence whites when you could drink Provence rosé? Maybe food is the key. Despite being in many instances pale and crisp enough to do duty for a white, rosés don’t have quite the same synergy with seafood.

If you’re cooking a bouillabaisse or a bourride, working your way through a plate of langoustines and mayonnaise, or assembling a grand aioli – especially with salt cod – Provence whites would have the edge.

Thinking of the kind of dishes, too, that would go with Vermentino over the border in Italy, they’d work with pasta dishes such as spaghetti vongole (spaghetti or linguine with clams) or a spring vegetable risotto. And the creaminess and slight almond bitterness of a Provence white is a better match than rosé for pistou, the French version of pesto.

Older vintages and wines that are dominated by Grenache, Roussanne or Marsanne behave more like a Rhône white, so think more in terms of roast or grilled veal, or a whole roast fish, such as a turbot. Both styles would be perfect with the local goat cheeses.

Provence whites panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Elizabeth Gabay MW is a wine writer, educator, speaker and consultant, with a focus on the wines of southern France. Her second book Rosés of Southern France (£22 Amazon, 2022) was co-authored with her son Ben Bernheim

Natasha Hughes MW is a freelance wine consultant, educator, judge and writer, with a focus on wine with food. Her writing has appeared in titles including The Observer, jancisrobinson. com and timatkin.com, and she’s currently working on her first book, about Beaujolais

Joanna Simon is an awarded wine writer, editor, presenter and judge based in London. She spent 22 years as the wine critic for The Sunday Times and has authored several wine books

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• Vermentino 2023 Tuscany vs Sardinia: Panel tasting results

Jason Millar, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 128 wines, with 1 Exceptional, 10 Outstanding and 60 Highly recommended

South African Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

128 wines tasted

Exceptional 1

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 60

Recommended 47

Commended 10

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release South African Chardonnay wines, containing a minimum of 85% Chardonnay, at any price level

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South African Chardonnay panel tasting

As the scores and notes clearly demonstrate, this was a superb tasting of South Africa’s finest Chardonnays.

It showed beyond doubt that contemporary South Africa is home to some of the southern hemisphere’s most confident and assured examples of this variety – and perhaps the world’s.

Although Chenin Blanc is the Cape’s signature white variety, Chardonnay, planted in the right place and vinified sensitively, can be sensational.

Cool-climate regions – Elgin, Greyton, Hemel-en-Aarde and the brisker parts of Stellenbosch – triumphed decisively. Andy Howard MW found the wines ‘generally very good quality, stylish and consistent’.

Roger Jones felt that they stood toe-to-toe with Hawke’s Bay, Margaret River and all but the finest Burgundy. The best offered an irresistible combination of concentration, clarity and freshness.

Less is more

It was notable that so many of the tasting’s finest wines were made with minimal-intervention viticulture, with many following the principles of regenerative and sustainable farming, utilising unhurried wild yeast ferments and deploying new oak with tasteful restraint.

As a fan of richer Chardonnay, I found it encouraging to see many producers favouring an oak-inflected style that offers texture, flavour, depth and ageability. In terms of pricing, there was little of interest under £15; Cape Chenin Blanc offers much better value and character at that level.

Most of our top wines were around or above £50, putting them into justifiable competition with white Burgundy. Yet for the best relative value, the panel agreed that the £20-£30 range was particularly impressive.

This was where many of our strongest Highly Recommendeds (‘silver medal’ equivalent, 90-94 points) were awarded.

With more than half the wines in the tasting scoring 90pts or more, there’s no doubt South Africa is making world-class Chardonnay.

Lovers of the grape ought to be buying, cellaring and enjoying them for years to come.

See all recommendations from the tasting

What to eat with South African Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

Sometimes I wonder if people who dismiss Chardonnay have ever actually drunk it with a meal. It goes with so many things, from roast chicken to cheddar cheese, that it’s hard not to regard it as the ultimate food wine.

Given the quality, price and maturity of the South African wines in this tasting, though, it’s a great excuse to up your game in the kitchen and cook something that will show it off in all its glory.

Grilled lobster would be top of my list, with langoustines and scallops not far behind. A crab tart would be wonderful; a whole baked salmon with hollandaise sublime. In fact, any kind of eggy or creamy sauce would set it off to perfection, especially if imbued with a bit of Chardonnay-friendly tarragon.

Veg-wise, think of mushrooms, roasted cauliflower and fennel – any or all of them enhanced by pastry, butter or parmesan. And grilled corn is also a winner. You can absolutely drink high-class South African Chardonnay with a braii, especially a seafood-focused braii.

South African Chardonnay panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a consultant and wine writer with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He’s also a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

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Jason Millar, Michael Garner, and Vincenzo Arnese tasted 83 wines, with 18 Highly Recommended

Vermentino 2023: Panel tasting scores

83 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 1

Highly recommended 18

Recommended 55

Commended 9

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their Vermentino wines from Sardinia or Tuscany, from the 2023 vintage only

Fashionable Vermentino has been making a name for itself in recent years. Native to Italy, the grape is synonymous with Sardinia, which boasts two-thirds of the country’s plantings, but this century has seen the island’s dominance challenged by the Tuscan coast’s ambitious and skilled winemakers.

This exciting panel tasting set out to discover whether it’s the Sardinians or the Tuscans who are currently making Italy’s most impressive Vermentino – and the results were fascinating.

The top-scoring Vermentino from the panel tasting are listed below

The key areas in Sardinia are Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, which covers the entire island, and Vermentino di Gallura DOCG in the northeast.

In Tuscany, Vermentino is a specialty of the Bolgheri DOC and has also become popular in the coastal Maremma Toscana DOC.

There can only be one

So who won? The results were definitive: seven of the top 11 wines were from the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG.

The judges agreed that its wines exhibited the highest quality and varietal typicity. Although Sardinia retained its crown, its most dangerous rival seems to be Bolgheri DOC.

Only five wines were submitted for the tasting; however, none received less than 90 points (as an average of the three judges’ scores) – impressively consistent, yet Michael Garner was expecting more.

‘Good, but not as good as I had hoped,’ was his verdict. Italy’s myriad DOCs and DOCGs can be unhelpful for consumers, but in this case, the classifications appear to have merit, especially given the variability of style and quality in the IGT wines assessed.

‘I found few of much interest,’ Garner said. Vermentino is also on the rise in the Maremma, and Vincenzo Arnese was impressed with this diverse region, highlighting ‘exceptional quality at accessible price points’.

The judges all agreed that the 2023s were drinking well now, with the best wines mostly medium-bodied with crisp acidity and discreet complexity – it seems that the real winners in the battle between the Tuscans and Sardinians are wine drinkers interested in quality.

Click here to see more results from the panel tasting

What to drink with Vermentino, by Fiona Beckett

It’s not only the wine that’s different in Sardinia and Tuscany: the food is different, too. Sardinian menus are dominated by seafood; Tuscany’s – except on the coast – are more classically Italian.

Vermentino, a wonderfully versatile white, goes with both.

Sardinia specialises in seafood platters, with which Vermentino pairs perfectly. Fresher, younger wines are spot-on with raw and marinated shellfish and fritto misto (mixed fried seafood and vegetables).

Try them with shellfish- and vegetable-based pasta dishes such as crab linguine, spaghetti vongole or pasta primavera. (Try a glass with some Pecorino cheese and new season’s broad beans, straight from the garden if you grow them.)

Vermentino is also a good accompaniment for delicate dishes with soft herbs.

On the mainland, you may be inclined to drink Vermentino with antipasti and creamier pasta sauces. Older vintages are great with grilled or roasted fish or a veal chop, particularly with salsa verde.

They’re great, too, with vitello tonnato – veal with tuna and anchovy sauce.

Vermentino 2023 panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Vincenzo Arnese is director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year

Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines and DWWA Regional Chair for Northern Italy. He is the author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2017)

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Michael Garner, Victoria Daskal and Jason Millar tasted 53 wines, with 19 Highly Recommended

Bardolino Rosso: Panel tasting scores

53 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 19

Recommended 29

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release red wines from the Bardolino DOC and sub-zones La Rocca, Montebaldo or Sommacampagna, and Bardolino Superiore DOCG

Scroll down for the best-scoring wines in the Bardolino Rosso panel tasting

In the shadow of Valpolicella

The name is fashionable enough – the village is a popular tourist destination on the shores of Lake Garda in Italy’s central north – but the wines of Bardolino continue to live in nearby Valpolicella’s shadow.

These pale, unassuming reds are easy to overlook and offer a very different proposition from their neighbour, where wines based on the same grape varieties often derive from the appassimento process (in which grapes are dried prior to fermentation).

As such, Bardolino Rosso remains true to type and gives tasters an authentic expression of the lively red fruit characters and telltale twist of black pepper that define the Corvina grape.

As Victoria Daskal observed: ‘Bardolino flies under the radar, but it shouldn’t; bursting with sour cherry, pomegranate and floral notes, with its soft tannins and bright acidity, it’s a natural fit for hip wine bars.’

Jason Millar pointed out that, ‘[Bardolino] Classico did seem to perform better than basic Rosso; purity of style and often rather good value for money make the Classico zone the best place for wine lovers to start exploring Bardolino.’

Click here to see more results from the panel tasting

Zone in on the crus

The judges all agreed that many of the finest examples originated from the three ‘cru’ areas of Montebaldo, Sommacampagna and La Rocca. These various versions are united by their joyful freshness, easy drinkability and foodfriendly nature.

Think straightforward, fresh, zingy cherry- and almond-scented reds for the most part, and leaner, more fragrant and challenging examples, often with brief oak ageing, higher up the quality ladder.

These more aspirational – but still affordable – wines show greater elegance and ageing potential, while the simpler style is best drunk young.

All promise style over substance and remain reassuringly understated.

Thanks to their versatility, these Bardolino reds excel with lighter foods and it’s strongly recommended to enjoy them lightly chilled – a tip not only from the judging panel but also from many of the wineries themselves.

What to drink with Bardolino Rosso, by Fiona Beckett

It can help to think of Bardolino less as a red wine than as a dark rosé. Of course there are fuller-bodied examples, but most you come across will be best drunk lightly chilled. It’s basically a red that appeals to white wine drinkers.

That makes it a good match for antipasti, particularly salumi. It goes nicely with mortadella and Parma or San Daniele ham with gnocchi fritti (deep fried dough balls), which makes it a good wine for an aperitivo or a snack.

It’s also great with olives, fresh goat’s cheese and other young cheeses, and is a good pairing with polpettine (little meatballs) and pasta with sausage or pork cooked in milk. Think ‘white’ Italian dishes rather than tomato-based ones.

Being light, it’s also a perfect wine for an al fresco summer supper or a barbecue: a light salad of raw courgettes, tomatoes and basil for instance, followed by grilled lamb chops with herbs and fried potatoes.

Like other light reds, Bardolino pairs well with grilled or roast fish such as seared tuna, salmon or roast seabass, too.

Bardolino Rosso panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines and DWWA Regional Chair for Northern Italy. He is the author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2017)

Victoria Daskal is a wine writer, presenter, consultant and WSET educator. In 2008, she completed the OIV MSc in International Wine Management, and among others has since worked for Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and as managing editor of The World of Fine Wine

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

Related articles

• Chile’s wild south: Leo Erazo profile
• Carmenère marks 30 years in Chile
• Winemaker to watch: Juan Pablo Murgia

Andy Howard MW, Melania Battiston and Victoria Daskal tasted 203 wines, with 13 Outstanding and 125 Highly Recommended

Cru Beaujolais 2022: Panel tasting scores

203 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 13

Highly recommended 125

Recommended 60

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2022 vintage reds from any of the 10 Beaujolais cru sub-regions (Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, St-Amour)

The judges were delighted by the quality on show from the highly regarded 2022 vintage.

Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie and Morgon led the way with four, three and two Outstanding wines respectively, but the judges were thrilled to see the strength in some of the lesser-known crus, with Chiroubles (the highest in altitude), St-Amour (most northerly alongside Juliénas) and Régnié (most recent AP) all featuring at least one wine at 95 points.

While this success won’t come as a surprise to fans of cru Beaujolais, the results might surprise those who are less familiar with what’s happening in the region today.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Cru Beaujolais 2022 tasting

The brilliance of Beaujolais

Beaujolais was long renowned for light, early-drinking, ‘pear-drop and bubble-gum’ wines that were easy to drink but rarely memorable.

Today, the region is the source of some of France’s most terroir-focused wines, often delivering fine-wine quality at great price points.

Sommelier Melania Battiston said: ‘From an on-trade perspective, in many restaurants, we are still faced with the easy-drinking, cheerful representations of Beaujolais, [but] I would happily buy and list most of the bottles that were rated Recommended or above here.’

Victoria Daskal was also enthusiastic: ‘The tasting revealed a remarkable spectrum of possibilities within each village – a testament to the interplay of soils, microclimates, vineyard ages and producer styles.’

Each taster identified different crus as personal favourites. For Daskal, ‘Fleurie defied its delicate, floral reputation, spanning everything from light, invigorating 12% alcohols to dense, ripe 15.5% expressions’.

I was a big fan of Moulin-à-Vent, a powerhouse within the Beaujolais crus, with many wines already at the level of fine Burgundy from the Côte d’Or, while Battiston was impressed by Régnié: ‘For me, the most refined and elegant.’

Daskal also championed Morgon, which she felt offered ‘exceptional fruit concentration, precision and charm, plus a compelling mix of drinkability, ageworthiness and value’.

Overall, she said: ‘The classic crus showed a variety of styles, but the lesser-known crus certainly stood out, too. Régnié, Chénas and Chiroubles impressed, with distinct personalities rooted in their terroirs, showcasing mineral-driven profiles, striking freshness and consistently high quality.’

Click here to see more results from the Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting

What to eat with Cru Beaujolais wines, by Fiona Beckett

Most people still see Beaujolais as a picnic wine, suitable only for pairing with charcuterie and mild soft cheeses such as brie.

True, it goes well with both, especially patés and terrines, but serious bottles such as Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent offer far more than that, the best rivalling red Burgundy for power, elegance and sophistication.

Think, then, of pairing them, particularly older vintages, with a fine roast chicken, feathered game such as duck, partridge or pheasant, or (remember this for later in the year) Christmas turkey, especially the Boxing Day leftovers.

They’re a natural with bistro classics such as kidneys with mustard, oeufs en meurette or hachis parmentier – the region is one of the last bastions of old-school French cooking.

Less obviously, it’s also good with Chinese food – if you want a red pairing, Beaujolais is as good as any – and (albeit lighter styles such as Fleurie) with sushi.

And don’t forget that delicious dessert of strawberries with, or rather in, Beaujolais. Roll on summer.

Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. He runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Melania Battiston is wine director at Cornus restaurant in London, and formerly assistant food & beverage manager for Aman Resorts. A CMS Advanced Sommelier, she runs her own consultancy and coaching company for hospitality and brands, Mel CnC

Victoria Daskal is a wine writer, presenter, consultant and WSET educator. In 2008, she completed the OIV MSc in International Wine Management, and among others has since worked for Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and as managing editor of The World of Fine Wine

Related articles

• Burgundy on a budget: 10 tips to buying smarter
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David Williams, Matthew Forster MW and Luis Gamiz tasted 86 wines, with 5 Oustanding and 38 Highly Recommended

Montsant: Panel tasting scores

86 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 38

Recommended 38

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still dry (or off-dry) red, white and rosé wines from DO Montsant

No matter how hard you try to ignore it, the question that haunts any tasting of DO Montsant wines is always: ‘How do these wines compare to those of Priorat?’ And the answer will invariably be something along the lines of, ‘better value, but not quite hitting the same heights’.

Founded as a DO in 2001, a year after Priorat was elevated from DO status to DOCa, Monstant almost entirely envelops the more famous region, both of which are set in the rugged hills of southern Catalonia.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Montsant tasting

Emerging from the shadows

The reasons for comparison are obvious enough: the two regions share much by way of climate, grape varieties and stylistic approach. Then again, Montsant is much more varied in its soils, elevations (from 50m to 700m), aspects and microclimates.

In other words, while it may have kinship with Priorat, Montsant is – or should be – very much its own thing.

The best of the wines on show in this panel tasting had a distinct character, especially those that managed to avoid, in Luis Gámiz’s words, ‘looking to Priorat as a benchmark’ by eschewing obvious oak.

‘For me, the better reds tended to pull away from oak use, to focus on fruit and give a more energetic result,’ said Matthew Forster MW. ‘There were some quite soupy, middle-of-the-road wines that struggled to marry oak with Garnacha in particular.’

For Gámiz, too, the stars of the tasting were the ‘fresher, lighter and more mineral-driven Garnachas and Cariñenas’. All of us on the panel would certainly have liked to taste more of this style.

The whites also impressed, with the best examples showing ‘real authenticity and verve,’ noted Forster.

Ultimately, this was a tasting of wines of remarkable consistency and character, with just five wines tasted failing to make the 86-point (Recommended) cut. ‘The quality in the region is very good in general,’ concluded Gámiz.

Looking down the list of prices, you’d have to say the value is very good, too. So, what was that about a certain region beginning with P…?

See all the wines from the Montsant tasting

What to eat with Montsant wines, by Fiona Beckett

Montsant, as this tasting illustrates, comes in two guises: lighter, fresher, more mineral styles and more full-bodied wines that are more similar to those of neighbouring Priorat.

The former are generally more versatile – wines, like those featured in our value Spanish Tempranillo tasting, that you could happily drink with tapas but also a good accompaniment for tomato-based sauces and grilled meats and vegetables, so good wines to crack open with a barbecue.

You could also pair this style with a tagine or a paella (it would go well with the authentic Valencian style with chicken and/or rabbit).

More full-bodied styles are the ones you would want to enjoy with slow-braised ox cheek, venison, wild boar or other hearty stews: classic cold-weather drinking.

The relatively small number of whites, which are mainly based on white Garnacha and Macabeo, are a natural match for robust seafood dishes such as grilled or roast hake, octopus, dishes with salt cod or with punchily seasoned salads that might well include olives, capers and artichokes.

Montsant panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

David Williams is wine correspondent for The Observer, a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish, and a widely published wine writer, author and competition judge

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he has a particular passion for the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America

Luis Gamiz is business and product development manager and Spanish wine buyer at Indigo Wine. He has extensive experience in the wine industry, having previously held positions at Alliance Wine, The Knotted Vine and Vinoteca

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Andy Howard MW, Eugenio Egorov and David Williams tasted 110 wines, with 32 Highly Recommended

Value Spanish Tempranillo: Panel tasting scores

110 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 32

Recommended 71

Commended 7

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release still dry red wines of any Spanish classification (DOCa, DO, Vino de la Tierra, Vino de España) made from minimum 85% Tempranillo (or any accepted synonym, such as Tinta de Toro, Tinta del Pais, Tinto Fino). Maximum price €12 in the domestic market, £15 in the UK

Although this tasting didn’t result in any Outstanding awards, these Tempranillo-dominant wines retailing at £15 or less put on a good show. The judges were surprised and delighted to taste so many elegant, mature and great-value wines.

Of 110 wines tasted, 32 (29%) were awarded 90 points or more (Silver medal equivalent), with a highest score of 94pts. A further 71 wines were Recommended.

In total, 93.6% were Highly recommended or Recommended – a strong result given the price constraints.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our value Spanish Tempranillo tasting

Wines perpetually punching above their weight

Considering the price of the wines, David Williams was impressed: ‘“Value” in the title of a tasting can lower expectations. But this line-up genuinely represented excellent value.’

Andy Howard MW agreed: ‘From virtually no other country could mature, expressive and well-made wines be found at values even vaguely comparable to these.’

Eugenio Egorov felt that ‘the wines exhibited a vibrant, expressive style, with a reduced reliance on oak allowing the underlying fruit to shine through, resulting in wines that were more elegant, with a strong sense of identity’.

Howard summed up the panel’s views: ‘We saw very well-made wines that expressed both the grape variety and their region, many at their peak, yet many still with a long life ahead.’

Rioja proved to be both the largest entry and highest performing DO with 24 (almost 36%) wines out of a total of 67 being awarded 90pts or more. In terms of vintages, 2021 was the strongest performer, displaying the quality of this highly rated, cooler year.

There’s no hurry to drink most of these wines, while the amazing ability of Rioja to age was demonstrated by the two 2015-vintage wines tasted.

Both scored 92pts, with the judges giving drinking windows up to 2034 – a remarkable testament to the ability of these modestly priced wines to age.

See all the wines from the value Spanish Tempranillo tasting

What to eat with value Tempranillo, by Fiona Beckett

Although the tasting is headlined Tempranillo, we’re mainly talking inexpensive Rioja here, and the good news is it’s a hugely versatile wine, not least with the simple, inexpensive meals we all tend to make at this time of year.

Think sausage and mash, shepherd’s (and cottage) pie, even mince on toast.

Tempranillo is also surprisingly good with meat dishes that have a touch of spice, especially lamb curries such as rogan josh, or a tagine. On the veggie front, anything based on beans should work.

Inexpensive Tempranillo is a good wine to choose in a tapas bar or for a tapas spread at home. And a great glass with a late-night nibble of cheese – especially sheep’s cheese such as Manchego.

Older vintages, which might be regarded as more of a treat, are great to bring out with a Sunday roast or a pot roast or pheasant casserole, making the best of the last of the season’s game.

Value Spanish Tempranillo panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose through the ranks as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester

David Williams is wine correspondent for The Observer, a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish, and a widely published wine writer, author and competition judge

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Beth Pearce MW, Sara Muirhead MW and Ben Chan tasted 51 wines, with 7 Outstanding and 25 Highly Recommended

Australian Grenache: Panel tasting scores

51 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 25

Recommended 15

Commended 4

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 100% Grenache wines from the 2020, 2021 and 2022 vintages

With the original plantings taking place in 1838, Grenache was one of the first varieties to take root in Australia. Indeed, the country boasts the world’s oldest productive Grenache vines, planted in 1848, and its wealth of old-vine material has helped fuel the rise of single-varietal Grenache wines of increasingly notable quality.

‘There’s now a spectrum of Grenache that’s different to what people would have expected, even five or so years ago,’ said lead judge Beth Pearce MW. ‘There are the old-school, rich, opulent styles and the new-wave Pinot-like styles,’ explained Ben Chan.

‘The best wines have that sort of concentration that comes from old vines – all that Pinot-like perfume, but with a bit more muscle,’ Pearce added.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Australian Grenache tasting

A variety to seek out

Identifying which style is in your bottle isn’t easy. ‘It’s very hard to know what you’re going to get,’ noted Pearce. This is one category where it’s important to identify your favourite producers and wines. But you can certainly expect quality from Aussie Grenache.

An impressive 63% of the wines in the tasting were ranked Highly recommended or above. ‘There was a high quality level,’ noted Sara Muirhead MW. ‘But there were quite a lot of wines that were quite ambitiously priced and the quality didn’t always match up.’

Nonetheless, the panel noted the innovation of some of the winemakers working with Grenache. ‘In terms of the sort of style producers were going after, it’s interesting to see how specific some were about how they age the wines,’ said Pearce.

Which regions should readers look out for? McLaren Vale and Barossa dominated, with the former claiming the lion’s share of the Outstanding bottles.

Within McLaren Vale, one name should definitely be on your radar: ‘Blewitt Springs stood out, as I expected it might, because there are some great vineyards there – those sandy soils are well known for top-quality Grenache,’ said Pearce.

Although it accounts for just 1.1% of Australia’s total vineyard area, Grenache punches well above its weight. Seek it out.

See all the wines from the Australian Grenache tasting

What to eat with Australian Grenache, by Fiona Beckett

The assumption that Aussie Grenache is all about high-alcohol blockbusters is out of date, as this tasting shows. Nevertheless, that full-bodied style is still widely available and popular.

It particularly suits substantial wintry food – dishes such as slow-braised ox cheek and other casseroles, and hearty steak pies – but can also be a great pairing for an American-style barbecue with its smoked meats.

And because of its relatively soft tannins, this style would work well with a cheeseboard, especially with stronger hard cheeses and blues. But the fresher, younger styles are more like Pinot Noir when it comes to pairing – often made in a quaffable style better suited to charcuterie or simply grilled meats, or, like Pinot, to duck.

Those styles would also be good with root vegetable-based dishes, including roast carrots, parsnip and beetroot, and also with roast pumpkin or squash. There’s always a slight sweetness to Grenache that chimes with a corresponding sweet note in a dish.

Australian Grenache panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Beth Pearce MW is the recently appointed head of buying at Flint Wines. Her extensive experience in the wine industry includes roles in retail and buying at Majestic and most recently buying director at Lay & Wheeler

Sara Muirhead MW is a wine consultant and communicator with more than 30 years’ experience in the wine trade. Her current focuses include wine tastings and events. She became an MW in 2008, and is a DWWA judge for Australia

Ben Chan is a senior wine specialist for Berry Bros & Rudd and a DWWA judge. After working as a winemaker in his native Australia, he is now based in London, where he was a sommelier at Hakkasan Mayfair and a WSET examiner

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Tom Hewson, Eugenio Egorov and Victoria Mason MW tasted 82 wines, with 1 Outstanding and 41 Highly Recommended

Non-vintage rosé Champagne: Panel tasting scores

82 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 1

Highly recommended 41

Recommended 38

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their non-vintage rosé Champagnes in any dryness level, from zero dosage up to sweeter demi-sec.

In some ways, non-vintage rosé is the most creative, and perhaps also the most misunderstood, of Champagne styles. Our tasting was a riot of shades and flavours, seeing steely, dry and invigorating wines sitting next to explosive, dark, Pinot-dominant saignée styles (produced by allowing the colour to ‘bleed’ from the skins of red grapes), and everything in between.

‘This can be a confusing category for consumers to navigate,’ noted panellist Victoria Mason MW.

Not only did the judges show a general preference for rosés that included a good dash of Chardonnay in the blend, but the top three wines all came from dedicated Chardonnay specialists. What’s the story?

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our non-vintage rosé Champagne tasting

With the majority of the rosés here likely based on the hot 2019 and 2020 vintages, Chardonnay’s freshening power and bright acidity seemed to provide a brilliant foil to the juicier, fruitier Pinot Noir. Among the wines that achieved scores of 90 points or above were a collection of well-known names that specialise in the Côte des Blancs, such as Delamotte, Barons de Rothschild, Gimonnet, André Jacquart, Fleur de Miraval and Legras & Haas.

The judges were certainly open to different approaches, however, with panellist Eugenio Egorov commenting that it was ‘astonishing to see how drastically styles can vary’. There was a great deal of appreciation for Geoffroy’s terrific, dark and vibrant Rosé de Saignée from sunny Cumières, as well as vinous Pinot Noir styles from Henri Giraud and Bollinger.

These are all wines that feature fruit from the Pinot Noir heartlands that run from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ to Cumières next to the Marne river. These villages are sources also for the red wines that are blended, usually in proportions of 5%-15%, into the assemblage (‘blended’) rosés that made up the majority of this tasting.

Overall, there were plenty of well-made, solid NV rosés from the major houses, although perhaps fewer standouts than expected. It was a pleasant surprise to see houses (and some co-ops) with a slightly lower UK profile, such as Pommery, Canard-Duchêne, Thiénot, Joseph Perrier and Devaux, score well with fruit-led, approachable styles among the familiar names.

See all the wines from the NV rosé Champagne tasting

What to eat with rosé Champagne, by Fiona Beckett

The very fact that we’re talking about Champagne rather than any other sparkling wine immediately raises expectations about the food, not least because it tends to fetch a higher price.

You can of course serve it as an aperitif with canapés, and that suits lighter styles. (The rosé colour may tempt you to pair it with smoked salmon, but I’m not sure the delicate red berry fruit works – shrimp is better.) But the rosé is often seen, by the French at least, as a more serious gastronomic wine that goes particularly well with rare and even raw meat such as rare roast beef, carpaccio or steak tartare. It works well, too, with fresh and white-rinded cheeses such as Brie and Chaource.

In my view, most rosé Champagnes are too dry for dessert, particularly nowadays, though there is the odd exception. Creamy but not oversweet desserts, like pannacotta, provide the best counterpoint. And if you want to have a bit of fun with rosé Champagne, take it on a picnic and drink it with a good pork pie.

NV rosé Champagne panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Tom Hewson is Champagne correspondent for Decanter and Decanter Premium online, and a DWWA judge. A jazz musician, he writes on sparkling wine more broadly on the Six Atmospheres Substack

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London, where he rose through the ranks as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester

Victoria Mason MW is a wine buyer for The Wine Society, covering Champagne as well as Italy and the US. Formerly senior fine wine buyer at Bordeaux Index, she previously worked in retailer Waitrose’s wine buying team

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Beth Willard, Valentin Radosav and Diana Rollan tasted 69 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 28 Highly Recommended.

Spanish Garnacha: Panel tasting scores

69 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 28

Recommended 32

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release, still red wines in which Garnacha makes up at least 85% of the blend, from any Spanish protected denomination or geographical indication, priced in the domestic market at a minimum of €8 retail, or equivalent in export markets

There are days when you approach a tasting with trepidation, not because the quality might be questionable, but because you have high expectations and desperately don’t want to be disappointed. This was one of those tastings, and with committed ‘garnachistas’ on the panel, the wines had a lot to live up to.

Garnachas from Spain… such a broad remit, but gee, did it deliver!

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Spanish Garnacha tasting

Garnacha’s versatile charms

The diversity of Spain’s regions and the ability of Garnacha to adapt to different terroirs in its native environment was on show.

From the rugged mountains of the Meseta to the Mediterranean, the flexibility of the grape offered light and lively wines from the Sierra de Gredos to big and bold wines from the slate soils and heat of Priorat.

Diana Rollan commented that the tasting ‘proved the quality and versatility of this Spanish variety, which deserves more recognition’.

The judges were also impressed with some of the value on show. Indeed, one of the top-scoring wines (see recommendations below), El Marciano from Gredos, west of Madrid, is impressively priced for a region where the cost of production is incredibly high due to the challenging mountain terrain.

It is a wine that you’ll often find by the glass in the bars and restaurants of Madrid, with its beautiful varietal and regional character going a long way to explain why.

‘When I see Gredos on the label, I immediately think of a really good Garnacha,’ commented Rollan. ‘Maestro’s El Marciano is a great way to introduce consumers to the variety and region by the glass.’

Varietal character shining through

Aragón also offered wines of excellent value with bigger and bolder styles, balanced with impressive acidity, while wines from Priorat and Rioja showed how well the grape is adapted to their different terroirs.

Rioja in particular, judges felt, presented outstanding interpretations of Garnacha: the Palacio de Manzanos 1890 offers seductive voluptuousness from old vines in Rioja Oriental, while Elías López’s Ilusio Verum is pure and almost ethereal, from the cooler zone of Cordovín.

Judges all commented on the judicious use of oak in the higher-scoring wines; many of these wines had been barrel-aged, but the wood was of very high quality and didn’t overpower the fruit.

‘I love Garnacha because of the grape itself,’ noted Valentin Radosav. ‘When winemakers extract fruit and don’t place reliance on oak, it shows off the style of the different regions.’

It is interesting to note that, among the top-scoring wines, one was fermented and aged in stainless steel, one in concrete, two others in a combination of oak and concrete or amphora, and others in larger barrels (between 400-litre and 600-litre).

The move away from 225-litre barrels reflects a broader trend in certain regions of Spain and seems to benefit this particular variety.

The tasting confirmed the judging panel’s biases towards Spain’s native grape and the quality it can produce on home soil.

It reflected the new wave of red wines being made across the country – a movement that represents a return to the past and a more authentic and pure expression of Spain’s indigenous varieties.

Spanish Garnacha panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Beth Willard writes about and promotes Spanish wines in a number of markets globally, having formerly worked for many years in senior wine buying roles in the UK. She is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and is one of the five Co-Chairs of the DWWA

Valentin Radosav is learning and development manager for 5-star hotels in London. A qualified Advanced Sommelier and a DWWA judge, he was formerly head sommelier at Michelin-starred Gymkhana restaurant in Mayfair, having also previously worked at other top venues

Diana Rollan is group head of beverage for D&D London restaurants group. A DWWA judge for Spain, she formerly managed training and wine buying at Hakkasan Group as its UK head of wine

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Andy Howard MW, Jason Millar and Federico Moccia tasted 45 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 15 Highly Recommended

Franciacorta: Panel tasting scores

45 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 15

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their non-vintage, white Franciacorta wines, in any style, though not including Franciacorta Satèn.

This tasting represented a significant cross-section of the 122 producers affiliated with the Franciacorta consorzio in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. More than a third of the wines tasted were awarded the equivalent of gold or silver medals, with two scoring 95-points (see recommendations).

The average across all wines tasted topped 89-points, demonstrating the consistency of this relatively young DOCG.

Although it has been a wine-producing region for many years, the area around lake Iseo was historically dominated by red wines. The first traditional-method sparkling wine was produced in 1961 and it was recognised as a DOC in 1967, followed by elevation to DOCG in 1995.

Franciacorta was the first Italian sparkling wine to attain DOCG status, yet the regional consorzio was only created in 1990.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the best non-vintage Franciacorta wines

Similar to but different

Sometimes referred to as Italy’s answer to Champagne, the style of Franciacorta is quite different to that of its better-known French counterpart. Fellow judge Federico Moccia noted the creamier texture and riper, stone fruit characters of Franciacorta compared to those from the cooler Champagne region, which can often produce more forcefully acidic wines.

Franciacorta must be produced from a majority of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although Pinot Blanc is permitted (up to 50% for non-vintage) as is, since 2017, the local variety Erbamat (up to a maximum of 10%). Non-vintage wines must spend a minimum of 18 months ageing on lees.

Jason Millar felt that there was ‘a lot of consistency’ within the non-vintage category, although he was less convinced by the zero dosage/brut nature wines. He noted that ‘brut and extra brut were the stronger wines’, while also seeing positives in wines with a higher proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend.

He observed that: ‘Wines with Pinot Blanc and, to a greater extent Pinot Noir, showed extra acidity and structure.’

See all the wines from the Franciacorta tasting

Dry styles show room for improvement

The zero-dosage category showed more variability, with some wines showing either a reductive edge or oak influence that seemed out of balance. Overall, the wines are drinking well now and, with few exceptions, should be enjoyed over the next couple of years. Moccia noted that with the main market being in Milan, only 12% of Franciacorta production is exported.

However, many UK-based Italian importers are extending their ranges and now is a good time to try a wider variety of wines from the area.

Moccia felt that producers are now managing their acidity better than before, with purer, crisper wines being produced. He concluded that they are ‘good quality, easy to drink wines, with autolytic integration and more crunchy acidity than in the past’.

The sparkling wines of Franciacorta are well worth trying, whether they’re the non-vintage wines tasted in this panel tasting, or vintage, Satèn (brut, bottled at a maximum pressure of five atmospheres) or rosé tiers. Many of the producers are very small and, as Millar observed, ‘one could draw comparisons with grower Champagnes’.

This is a high-quality, evolving category with a lot to commend it.

Non-vintage Franciacorta panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Federico Moccia is head sommelier at London private member’s club 67 Pall Mall. Originally from Brescia in northern Italy, he is an advocate for Italian wine, as well as a DWWA judge and a contributor to decanter.com

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Gareth Birchley, Vincenzo Arnese and Arthur Coggill tasted 111 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 79 Highly Recommended.

St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015: Panel tasting scores

111 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 79

Recommended 18

Commended 4

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2015 vintage red Bordeaux grand vins from St-Emilion Grand Cru and Grand Cru Classé, and Pomerol

If you asked the vignerons of Bordeaux to predict the quality of the 2015 vintage before a single bud had even burst, many of them would have stated that greatness was inevitable.

It is, of course, purely chance that 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010 were all contenders for the finest vintage in their respective decades.

Nevertheless, in 2015, the universe acquiesced and gave the Bordelais a tricky but incredibly favourable growing season.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the pick of St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015

St-Emilion’s pyramid proves its worth

After tasting 111 wines blind from both St-Emilion and Pomerol in this warm vintage, the quality was evident. Vincenzo Arnese commented that, at 10 years old, you see ‘all their purity and integration’. From top to bottom, there was certainly a coherence and commonality between the wines that I would, if pushed, summarise as ‘ripeness’.

The key was simply managing the fruit to produce fresh, balanced and ageworthy wines. The task was, in general, simply to not spoil the fruit in the winery… but that’s easier said than done.

Despite showcasing different styles, St-Emilion was incredibly consistent. It does feel as if there was still a desire, from some properties, to over-extract the fruit, leaving those wines stewed and lacking definition.

Indeed, Arthur Coggill commented: ‘It was surprising to find so many wines still in thrall to the old style favoured by Robert Parker, and so for me, the 2015 vintage marks the highwater mark for the Parkerised style.’

The very best châteaux managed tannin perfectly – super-fine and wonderfully silky, with incredible length. The judges did note, however, that it was a shame not to see the full cross-section of the commune.

Among the 77 St-Emilion wines tasted, only six were 1er Grand Cru Classé (of the 14 ranked as such in the 2012 Classification, which applied at the time) – and their quality was a marked step up.

Thrilling consistency

Across the border in Pomerol, the quality was also incredibly consistent. Arnese commented: ‘Overall, Pomerol showed a surprisingly lifted style. I was expecting more ripeness in the final result, yet the sample showed good balance and purity.’

More of the ‘big names’ were submitted, which gave a much more coherent cross-section of what the region bottled in 2015. The styles produced were also far less variable than in St-Emilion.

Bordeaux’s en vogue appellation produced charming wines across the board, more perfumed and floral than their neighbour’s, with very little over-extraction, allowing the vineyards and terroir to speak.

I suspect that this is as consistent as a broad tasting of mid- to top-end Bordeaux can be. None of the wines exhibited the green, underripe character we often find in this maritime climate.

At the lower end, Bordeaux still has a lot of work to do in matching both the quality and value for money found in many regions outside France. That said, it was encouraging to see many of the top performers proving their worth and rising to the top.

I’m a firm believer that, at above £50 a bottle, pound for pound, Bordeaux provides better value than most other wine regions in the world. If you buy the best wines from this vintage, you will not only find pleasure now, but for decades to come.

St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Gareth Birchley is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. Arriving in London in 2006, he worked in sales and senior buying roles at Bordeaux Index and Berry Bros & Rudd, before joining Burns & German in early 2019

Vincenzo Arnese is director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year

Arthur Coggill is head of business development at London-based merchant Hatton & Edwards, having joined in January 2024. Prior to this he was at Goedhuis & Co, where he worked initially in fine wine sales before running its investment fund for eight years, and then moving into buying in 2021

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Elizabeth Gabay MW, Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler and Justin Howard-Sneyd MW tasted 158 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 30 Highly Recommended.

Languedoc whites: Panel tasting scores

158 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 30

Recommended 114

Commended 12

Fair 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release, still white wines from any of the AOPs within the Languedoc (with the exception of AOP Picpoul de Pinet), as well as from any of the IGP and Vin de France, but not including single-varietal Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.

The wine-growing region of Languedoc is 200km in length, arcing round the southwestern edge of France’s Mediterranean coastline. Diverse terroirs with schist, limestone, clay and sand can be found along the coastal plains and the southern foothills of the Massif Central.

There is an Atlantic influence in the northwestern vineyards, higher altitude coolness in the foothills of the Pyrenees in the south, and cool air sweeping down the Rhône Valley in the east. The resulting diversity can make it almost impossible to define a ‘Languedoc style’.

Languedoc white wines rated 90+ listed below

A riot of varieties

A long history of producing large volumes of cheap and cheerful wines has fixed the image of the region for many consumers, but affordable land and free-minded attitudes have meant that the region has, for a number of decades, also produced some stellar wines.

Judge Justin Howard-Sneyd MW said: ‘It was great to see the wines aspiring to price levels certainly not achieved 20 years ago, meaning the best wines are excellent value compared to wines of similar quality from the Rhône, Burgundy or California.’

A distinctive feature of the tasting was the rich assortment of local white grape varieties. These include Clairette, Piquepoul, Terret Blanc and Gris, Carignan Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Riveirenc Blanc and Gris; some saved from obscurity or even extinction.

Rhône varieties such as Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Araignan (also called Picardan) and Viognier, as well as Rolle (Italy’s Vermentino) and Macabeu (Viura in Spain), are also increasingly widespread. For Howard-Sneyd, ‘the most successful wines were Mediterranean blends’.

Since the 1980s, international varieties have been increasingly planted in Languedoc. Chenin Blanc was an early introduction in the area around Montpellier, appreciated for its acidity, and can now be considered a local grape. It is used extensively in Limoux and in the area of Terrasses du Larzac, where it is hoped it will soon be included in the list of permitted varieties.

Wines made from 100% Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc were excluded from the tasting. Newer international varieties such as Riesling, Petite Arvine, Colombard, Petit Manseng and Alvarinho do crop up, and can contribute freshness and acidity.

Single-varietal Viognier performed well, but blends including a small percentage of it did not.

Oak, concrete and freshness

Not every Languedoc appellation includes white wines, and those that do often produce just a small amount. This makes it more difficult to establish regional styles and Howard-Sneyd notes that whites under the large Languedoc AP ‘struggle for identity, and this risks being a dumping ground for anything that doesn’t have a more specific AP.’

Great freshness was found in maritime La Clape and the higher altitude and limestone soils of Terrasses de Larzac, but we were disappointed not to have found greater freshness in the wines from Limoux.

The best wines all had extended ageing in wood, concrete or tank, with great balance of freshness and richness, complexity and power. Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler felt that the use of oak did not always justify higher prices.

The lowest-scoring wines were often marked down due to flabbiness and a lack of freshness or, conversely, by hard, unripe greenness and more clumsy use of oak.

While there may not yet be clear regional Languedoc white styles, the range is still impressive: from rich, complex, oaked wines to lighter, fruity wines with prices from below £10 to over £50. Clearly this is a region with opportunities for exciting discoveries.

Languedoc whites panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Elizabeth Gabay MW is a wine writer, educator, speaker and consultant, with a focus on rosé and the wines of southern France, where she has lived since 2002. Her second book Rosés of Southern France (£22 Amazon, 2022) was co-authored with her son Ben Bernheim

Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler is a wine buyer for Waitrose, focusing on rosé, Burgundy and regional France, having previously worked for more than five years in roles including wine buying and head of trade sales at importer Charles Taylor Wines

Justin Howard-Sneyd MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Languedoc-Roussillon. A former wine buyer in UK multiple retail, he is a wine trade consultant via his company The Hive Wine Consulting, a trustee of the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation, and produces wines at Domaine of the Bee in Roussillon

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Beth Willard, Valentin Radosav and David Williams tasted 77 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 24 Highly Recommended.

Aragón reds: Panel tasting scores

77 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 24

Recommended 47

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release, still red wines from DOs Calatayud, Campo de Borja, Cariñena and Somontano; or IGP regions Bajo Aragón, Ribera del Gállego-Cinco Villas, Ribera del Jiloca, Ribera del Queiles, Valle del Cinca and Valdejalón; Vino de Pago Ay

From wild and rugged Aragón, this tasting of red wines took us on a journey from the most northerly DO vineyards of Somontano in the foothills of the Pyrenees to the high-elevation (up to 1,000m) vines of Calatayud and further south, to the vast, sparsely populated expanses towards Teruel.

We passed through the vineyards close to Moncayo in Campo de Borja and tasted some great-value wines from Cariñena (the DO region). It was a tasting that naturally focused on Garnacha, the main protagonist of the whole region, but featured some interesting blends of Cariñena (the grape), Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and even Merlot.

Scroll down to see the top results from the Aragón reds panel tasting

But let’s start with Garnacha, the native grape of Aragón. Seven of the nine highest-scoring wines (92pts and above) here are made from the grape variety, from six different denominations but offering clear varietal typicity. David Williams was pleasantly surprised with the regional consistency of the Garnacha-based wines, feeling that producers ‘should go back to using Garnacha as much as possible’.

The panel found the wines featuring 100% Garnacha most compelling, with beautiful definition and fresh acidity; they lack nothing in fruit concentration while offering a certain elegance and precision.

Value was a key point of discussion among the judges, who felt that the Aragón region is producing highly enjoyable wines at accessible prices. The Garnacha-led wines in this report also offer great value.

As well as the three wines priced below £15 that scored 90 points or more, a further 22 wines that either are or would be (if available) priced under the £15 mark in the UK received very respectable scores of 86-89pts (Recommended).

Many other varieties were on show, from the local Aragonese grapes Derechero and Miguel de Arco to international varieties. ‘I loved some of the Cabernets, which offered very good varietal character,’ said Valentin Radosav.

Williams also liked the Cabernet-based wines but not so much the Merlot-led blends – he expressed his disappointment that more wines with Cariñena weren’t submitted to the tasting.

See all the wines from the Aragón reds panel tasting

Winemaking plaudits

Some of the wines featured quite high levels of alcohol (15%), which the panel didn’t necessarily consider a problem – most showed great balance and carried the alcohol well – but a few wines were quite hot and heady.

It was felt that the higher alcohols particularly affected the Cabernet-led blends, resulting in jammy fruit that grew tiring on the palate.

In general, the winemaking was applauded, with many producers turning to larger oak barrels, as well as concrete or clay amphorae. Radosav preferred the wines that showed off their purity of fruit: ‘I noted that the type of vessel used for fermentation and ageing was more often than not concrete or something other than oak.’

Williams concurred, adding that he often prefers wines with concrete or clay influence. ‘It’s not just that I have a stylistic preference, but this type of winemaking just seems to work.’

‘Even if the wines had a strong personality, I still found them very interesting with many varied elements,’ said Radosav. The tasting revealed the characterful red wines of Aragón, intense but with a certain finesse – more than the panel had encountered in the past.

Aragón reds panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Beth Willard writes about and promotes Spanish wines in a number of markets globally, having formerly worked for many years in senior wine buying roles in the UK. She is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino and is one of the five Co-Chairs of the DWWA

Valentin Radosav is learning and development manager for 5-star hotels in London. A qualified Advanced Sommelier and a DWWA judge, he was formerly head sommelier at Michelin-starred Gymkhana restaurant in Mayfair, having also previously worked at other top venues in the UK and Dubai

David Williams is wine correspondent for The Observer, a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish, and a widely published wine writer, author and competition judge

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Michael Garner, Sara Bachiorri and Richard Baudains tasted 88 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 38 Highly Recommended.

Amarone: Panel tasting scores

88 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 38

Recommended 36

Commended 9

Fair 2

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release vintage wines classified as Amarone della Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, or Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena

Amarone has a clearly established identity as a round, full, soft and deeply coloured red, high in alcohol with a sensation of sweetness. Nonetheless, across the 88 wines on show, the panel found plenty of variables in terms of style and quality.

One of the most notable was just how much vintage matters. This tasting covered 10 different years: 2019 and 2018 accounted for almost 40% of the entries, with fewer from 2021 (six wines), 2020 (eight), 2017 (seven), 2016 (10), 2015 (seven), 2013 (three), and one wine each from 2011 and 2007.

Both 2019, a promising vintage that combines richness and freshness, and 2018 – more difficult, but with good levels of acidity – fared well, as, on the whole, did the highly touted 2016s and 2015s.

Scroll down to see the top results from the Amarone panel tasting

Maturity over youth

However, only three wines from 2020 and two from 2017 achieved Highly Recommended scores, with those from the latter just making it in at the lower end.

The three examples from the now fully mature though less widely acclaimed 2013 vintage garnered Outstanding, Highly recommended and Recommended scores, and the two older wines also received very respectable scores (2011 91pts and 2007 92pts); though completely ready, they all still had plenty to offer.

Unfortunately, the much-heralded 2021 vintage didn’t impress greatly at this early stage, and Richard Baudains warned that younger versions of Amarone with 14.5% or 15% alcohol can overlap stylistically with Ripasso and Valpolicella Superiore wines.

Provenance is another key factor. Nearly half of the entries came from the Classico area, just three from the relatively tiny Valpantena valley, and the rest from the easterly Orientale area. The Classico wines were the highest achievers, and the finest examples – with their broader spectrum of aromas and flavours – offer greater nuance.

Two of the three wines from Valpantena (typically slightly lighter but balanced wines) gained Highly recommended scores, while the Orientale wines (generally more renowned for their fuller, robust style) were more of a mixed bag on the day.

See all the wines from the Amarone panel tasting

A balancing act

The other major consideration is the role of alcohol and sugar levels. Excessive alcohol can be an issue – hardly surprising at up to 17% abv.

But as Sara Bachiorri noted: ‘We had wines at 15% where the alcohol was out of balance and felt higher than that, while others, perhaps at levels as much as 16.5%, felt perfectly balanced.’

Residual sugar levels are perhaps an even more contentious issue. The current trend to make a drier style of Amarone with as little as a couple of grams per litre of sugar aims to take the wine in a new direction, away from its traditional use as a vino da meditazione and towards a more versatile and food-friendly product.

However, the judges also found a number of entries in which sugar levels were questionably high.

Overall, while standards were encouraging, Baudains was left wanting more: ‘Amarone is a special wine. When it is less special and simply good, it is less Amarone.’

Amarone panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines and DWWA Regional Chair for Northern Italy. He is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2017)

Sara Bachiorri is in the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. A DWWA judge for Northern Italy, she was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew then Chez Bruce in London, followed by a stint at Italian specialist merchant FortyFive10°

Richard Baudains is the DWWA Regional Chair for Veneto and a regular contributor to Decanter. He lives in northeast Italy, is on the Slow Wine Guide team for Friuli Venezia Giulia, and is a university wine journalism teacher

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Caro Maurer MW, Svetoslav Manolev MS and Marcel Orford-Williams tasted 40 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 9 Highly Recommended.

German whites beyond Riesling: Panel tasting scores

40 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 9

Recommended 18

Commended 4

Fair 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, dry white wines from any region in Germany, single varietal or blend (in which Riesling could be included, but not as the dominant variety)

Riesling casts a large shadow in German vineyards. With some 24,400ha planted (DWI/Statistisches Bundesamt data for 2023), the German flagship variety occupies a quarter of the 103,687ha of vineyards (which are about two-thirds white varieties).

Though less recognised, other white grapes do exist – and can certainly produce top-class wines. This was demonstrated in the 40 wines reviewed at this panel tasting.

Scroll down to see the top results from the German whites beyond Riesling panel tasting

Germany is the world leader in plantings of Silvaner (4,330ha in 2023) and Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder in German, 6,318ha). Although Silvaner originally comes from Austria and Pinot Blanc from France, both varieties seem to be more integrated into German vineyards than in their homelands.

Pinot Gris (or Grauburgunder, 8,372ha) and Chardonnay (2,912ha) also make their quality contribution to this selection of German whites, with the latter featuring in four of the 13 wines scoring 90 points or more.

Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, the German variety Scheurebe and Gutedel (also known as Chasselas), as well as Viognier and Marsanne and the rare Faberrebe (a cross between Chardonnay and Müller-Thurgau), were also on show. The wine styles varied from fruity and fresh to serious and highly complex.

Rising quality

Chardonnay, in particular, demonstrates a class of its own, as illustrated by the two wines achieving 95 points or more. Svetoslav Manolev MS saw an opportunity for German Chardonnays, especially as the prices for the wines from Burgundy continue to rise steeply.

‘Germany today offers very good natural conditions for Chardonnay: cooler than Burgundy and warm enough for the variety to fully ripen,’ he said. Climate change certainly plays a role in this – and in general a positive role for Germany as a whole, so far.

Marcel Orford-Williams agreed, adding that over the last 15 years the quality of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris from Germany has also improved significantly – although the management of wood in the winemaking can be an issue.

‘German wine-growers first had to learn to understand the right relationship between wine and barrel,’ he said.

See all the wines from the German whites beyond Riesling panel tasting

Promising Pinot Blanc

Both experts are convinced that Pinot Blanc is the country’s most promising white grape beyond Riesling. As Orford-Williams put it: ‘Today, Chardonnay is available from almost every wine-growing region in the world. Pinot Blanc from Germany, on the other hand, is unique.’

In Alsace, Pinot Blanc doesn’t have the status as a noble grape, yet in Germany wine-growers are making top-notch dry wines with the variety – namely those originating from Grosses Gewächs sites (literally ‘great growths’, or equivalent to grand cru in France) as classified in regions such as Baden and Pfalz under the regulations of the VDP assocation (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter).

Silvaner, on the other hand, is all too easily overlooked when bottled on its own. The grape variety doesn’t leave much of an impression at first glance – green apple is typical of its flavours, but the same can also be said for several other varieties.

It seems it may be more palatable than Riesling for some wine lovers, however, according to Orford-Williams, as reflected in The Wine Society’s ‘successful’ Ruppertsberg Pfalz Trocken blend of the two (2023, £7.75 The Wine Society).

Manolev added that Silvaner is ‘particularly popular with customers who have more wine experience’, especially if it comes from from a Grosse Lage (VDP classified vineyard), he added – ‘then it reflects its origins’.

German whites beyond Riesling panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Caro Maurer MW is a German food and wine writer, and a WSET- and MW-level educator. A DWWA Regional Chair, she also contributes to Bonn’s daily newspaper GeneralAnzeiger and food and wine title Der Feinschmecker.

Svetoslav Manolev MS is London regional sales manager for merchant Berkmann Wine Cellars. The first Bulgarian to qualify as a Master Sommelier, in 2019, he is also a DWWA judge for categories including Austria and Germany.

Marcel Orford-Williams is a wine buyer for The Wine Society, covering southern and regional French wines and Germany. He is a longstanding DWWA judge, and was made a Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole for services to French wine.

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Andy Howard MW, Christine Allen and Eugenio Egorov tasted 131 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 71 Highly Recommended.

Sparkling wines of the Americas: Panel tasting scores

131 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 71

Recommended 55

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release sparkling wines from any recognised appellation in the Americas, north or south – vintage or non-vintage, of any colour white, rosé or red, and produced according to the traditional or ancestral methods (ie, respectively, secondary fermentation in bottle or a single fermentation in bottle.

The judging panel were impressed by the outright quality on show in this tasting, from areas as diverse as the Niagara Peninsula and Nova Scotia in Canada down to the southerly extremes of Patagonia. At the end, Eugenio Egorov enthused about ‘the rise of American sparkling wine – a New World of bubbles’.

He observed: ‘A quiet revolution is underway across the Americas, and the results are nothing short of impressive.’ Andy Howard MW agreed: ‘The quality came as a surprise, with fantastic balance and precision in the top-scoring wines.’

Scroll down to see the top results from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Six nation tasting

This six-nation tasting traversed Canada, the US, Brazil, Uruguay, Chile and Argentina. It was no great shock that many US wines did well, with the long-established Chandon performing strongly.

And no surprise, either, that the Racines Grand Reserve Chardonnay gained a score of 94, given the involvement of Rodolphe Péters (of Champagne Pierre Péters) and Etienne de Montille and Brian Sieve (Domaine de Montille in Burgundy).

What did bowl the panel over was the quantity and quality of wines from Canada. Of the 79 Canadian wines tasted, three were deemed Outstanding, 37 Highly recommended.

Availability may be a challenge in the UK, but those in North America should celebrate the quality on offer in their backyard.

Ultra-cool climate Nova Scotia performed well (with the highly distinctive hybrid L’Acadie Blanc grape displaying its benchmark acidity in one of Blomidon’s wines.

But it was Ontario that provided the greatest excitement.

Two Niagara estates took top honours, with York Vineyards a particular shock as its first releases were yet to hit the market (due July/August 2024) at the time of tasting. These wines show the potential of this region.

York Vineyards is currently the only estate in Ontario (and perhaps in Canada) known to be focusing entirely on traditional method sparkling wine; barrel fermentation/ maturation and extended lees ageing here have resulted in some excellent wines.

See all the wines from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Bright future

South America didn’t perform quite as strongly, perhaps a reflection of the market driven, sharper price limitations on producers in Chile, Uruguay and Brazil.

Many of the wines are Recommended (86-89pts), but fewer shone as brightly as those from the US and Canada.

The developing ‘frontier’ regions of Limarí (Chile) and Chubut (Argentinian Patagonia) did show great potential.

The Otronia estate in Chubut was a great discovery. In the extreme south of Argentina (45’33’’) where the climate is cold and hostile, the first vines were planted in 2010.

The results for such youthful wines are impressive – great focus, purity and energy.

Egorov summarised the potential for the sparkling wines of the Americas: ‘As the global demand for sparkling wine continues to rise, and prices in traditional regions like Champagne and Italy climb ever higher, American producers are stepping up to offer exciting alternatives with more accessible price-tags.’

He concluded: ‘The future of fizz is looking bright on this side of the Atlantic.’

Sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Christine Allen is marketing director for distributor Maisons Marques et Domaines, particularly focusing on Old World regions, Champagne and sparkling wine. She has years of experience across sales, marketing and buying in the fine wine market, and is a DWWA judge.

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester.

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Dror Nativ MW, Ben Gubbins and Andy Howard MW tasted 52 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 19 Highly Recommended.

South American Merlot: Panel tasting scores

52 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 19

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still red wines labelled as single-varietal Merlot, from any recognised appellation in South America and consisting of a minimum 85% Merlot

Merlot rarely gets the limelight. This is particularly true of Merlot from South America, where signature regional varieties – Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, Uruguayan Tannat – dominate. Merlot is often overlooked, or blended with other varieties.

However, this panel tasting of 52 wines demonstrated that Merlot has the capability to surprise and delight, particularly when sourced from the continent’s cooler regions.

While Tannat accounts for more than a quarter of plantings in Uruguay, Merlot at 615 hectares accounts for about 10%, the third most-planted (INAVI, 2023). Of the six Uruguayan Merlots tasted, the three Highly recommended wines all hail from Maldonado, where cool Atlantic breezes seem to work their magic on this variety.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the South American Merlot panel tasting

The powerhouse

Argentina may be known as a Malbec powerhouse, yet five of the 11 Argentinian Merlots tasted were rated 90-points or more. Two Outstanding wines emerged from the cool south of Patagonia.

Ben Gubbins noted that the Merlots from this region showed a distinct blue-fruit profile. Riccitelli Old Vines Merlot from the Patagonia sub-region of Río Negro stood out for its likeness to cool-climate Syrah, showing beautiful aromas of violets and crushed black pepper. The Otronia 45 Rugientes comes from Patagonia’s wild and windswept Chubut sub-region; its racy acidity and refined style breaks the Merlot mould.

Not unexpectedly, Chile dominated the tasting. At 10,651ha, Merlot is the third most-planted variety here (8.3% of plantings, according to SAG data for 2022), after Cabernet Sauvignon (28.8%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11.2%). The country fared well, with 43% of the 35 Chilean wines scoring 90pts or above.

Two Outstanding Chilean Merlots were uncovered. Cousiño Macul’s Jardín de Macul was celebrated for its combination of hedonistic opulence and ageworthy concentration, dubbed by Andy Howard MW ‘a fine advert for Maipo Andes’ in the inland east of the region.

The Bournet Lapostolle family’s Cuvée Alexandre also impressed the judges with its structure and ageability.

See all the wines from the South American Merlot panel tasting

Cellarworthy

In fact, the capacity of Chilean Merlot to age, alongside its remarkable value, was what most astonished the panel. Gubbins noted: ‘There is definitely something to be said about the ageability of these wines.’ And Howard agreed: ‘I think you can keep them longer than you might suspect.’

Eleven of the Chilean wines tasted were from the 2018-2020 vintages and more than half scored 90pts and above. Incredibly, at the time of tasting, seven were available at less than £15 a bottle: an impressive, and rare, ratio of value to ageworthiness.

South American Merlot may be less fashionable, but in terms of drinkability, ageability and value, it compares very favourably to Merlots from more established regions around the world.

South American Merlot panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Dror Nativ MW is a wine buyer for major retailer Marks & Spencer, responsible for South America as well as Bordeaux, Burgundy, England, Champagne and sparkling wine. Having begun his career in the hospitality sector, he has also worked in varying roles at Hayward Bros, Spar and Sainsbury’s.

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

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Susie Barrie MW, Matthew Horsley and Stephen Skelton MW tasted 64 wines, with 1 Outstanding and 29 Highly Recommended.

English & Welsh still wines: Panel tasting scores

64 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 1

Highly recommended 29

Recommended 26

Commended 4

Fair 3

Poor 1

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, dry, still wines from England and Wales, single varietals or blends in white, rosé, orange or red styles

The mere fact that Decanter held its first ever UK still wine panel tasting this summer is testament to just how seriously these wines are now being taken. Admittedly, compared to the the country’s sparkling wine offering, it’s a young category. But based on this and other very recent tastings, it’s an exciting and ambitious one.

Although the judges had high expectations that weren’t always fulfilled, the characterful nature of so many of the wines we tasted and the sheer diversity of styles was hugely encouraging. The fact that our scores were often quite different, and that there was considerable debate between us about several of the wines, was usually more to do with the innovative spirit of the winemakers and their willingness to push boundaries than anything to do with inherent quality.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the English & Welsh still wines panel tasting

Chardonnay leads the way

Chardonnay unsurprisingly led the charge, and Matthew Horsley felt there were some ‘particular standouts among the Chardonnays’; it as a ‘key grape’ for UK still wines going forward, he noted. The only wine we rated Outstanding was Chapel Down’s consistently impressive Kit’s Coty Chardonnay while all but two of the varietal Chardonnays in the line-up were Highly recommended (90-94 points).

Although we all appreciated the quality of the more expensively oaked examples, from a commercial standpoint both Horsley and Stephen Skelton MW said they’d like to see more unoaked, moderately priced, Chablis-style wines being made to sit alongside the pricier ones.

Bacchus, Pinot Gris and Ortega were other white varieties that impressed. The issue of whether Bacchus should be oaked or not divided us, with Skelton saying ‘I don’t really like oak on fruity varieties, by and large’, though we all agreed Bacchus can and should be made in a variety of styles. With their relatively low yields and lowish acidity, as well as their versatility in terms of winemaking, both Pinot Gris and Ortega showed well in this tasting and ought to be important varieties as winemaking in the UK progresses.

The reds were dominated by Pinot Noir, and although at times more obvious Pinot Noir character was needed – and, in some cases, less oak – the best had wonderful drinkability and a fresh, English sappiness.

See all the wines from the English & Welsh still wines panel tasting

Innovative styles

In the spirit of innovation, we had five orange wines in the line-up (two scoring 90-91pts), all from different varieties and each with its own character. As Horsley said, they are ‘definitely not everybody’s cup of tea’, but of course that’s not the point of orange wine, and the textural intensity and harmony in the higher-scoring wines were terrific.

The majority of the wines we tasted were from the very good 2022 vintage and it will be interesting to see what the much larger, higher-yielding 2023 brings to the still wine party. Nothing in the tasting was under £15 a bottle and a handful were over £30. But when you consider that these are almost exclusively handcrafted wines, with personality and flair to boot, I’d say that’s a very fair price to pay for such a treasure trove of discovery.

English & Welsh still wines panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Susie Barrie MW is a widely recognised wine writer, broadcaster and consultant. Her book titles include The Essential Guide to English Wine (IW&FS, 2018), and she is co-host of the award-winning Wine Blast podcast

Matthew Horsley is a wine buyer for The Wine Society, responsible for England, South Africa and Greece, and a DWWA judge for the UK. He joined the Society in 2012 after graduating university and has been part of the buying department since 2017

Stephen Skelton MW is a leading consultant to wine producers across the UK, helping to set up and maintain many vineyards. An educator and awarded author, his titles include Viticulture (£27.50, 2nd edition 2020), a core text aimed at higher-level wine students, and The Wines of Great Britain (£35 Académie du Vin Library, 2019)

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David Williams, Matthew Forster MW and Diana Rollan tasted 118 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 20 Highly Recommended.

Spanish rosado & clarete: Panel tasting scores

118 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 20

Recommended 57

Commended 26

Fair 13

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still rosado (produced from red grapes following the saignée/sangrado or direct press method) or clarete (25% red grapes/must and 75% white grapes/must, blended before alcoholic fermentation) wines from any ageing category of joven, roble, crianza, reserva or gran reserva

This tasting featured one of the best wines I and my two fellow judges, Matthew Forster MW and Diana Rollan, have encountered in a Decanter panel tasting. A unanimous 97-pointer, Bodega Hacienda Lopéz de Haro’s Classica Gran Reserva Rosado 2013 is vying for a place in my personal pantheon: is this the finest Spanish rosado I’ve ever tasted? It’s certainly up there.

In a rosé winemaking world that is increasingly preoccupied with imitating the model of extremely pale, delicately flavoured wines, patented (with extraordinary recent success) by Provence, the Classica was a vivid and timely reminder.

Other styles of rosé are available – and a long tradition of making deeper-coloured, more powerfully flavoured and more robustly textured rosados is one of Spanish wine’s many strengths. And sure enough, it was wines made in this tradition that stood out and attracted our highest scores.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Spanish rosado & clarete panel tasting

Spanish rosé tradition

We were less enamoured with wines that seemed to be trying to copy Provence. It’s not that these pale wines were bad per se (indeed, some were very good). It’s just that, as Rollan said while discussing one of the higher-scoring pale wines: ‘It’s a perfectly well-made wine: refreshing, fruity… But what it doesn’t have is any kind of Spanish character. The world doesn’t need more Provence-style rosés.’

And she added: ‘Spain has its own rosé tradition and it’s a shame when they just try to copy something that you find all over the world.’

Forster agreed. ‘With some exceptions, the better wines for me were true-to-type rosados, made in a more traditional full-bodied style, rather than wannabe Provence-style rosés,’ he said. ‘There were also a couple of experimental wines that really stood out, demonstrating sophisticated winemaking and a more confident, authentic approach.’

On the strength of this tasting, ‘authentic’ rosados can be found all over Spain, and while Rioja claimed the top two scores, there were high-scoring wines of real character and interest from Galicia, Navarra and various parts of Catalonia.

Varietally speaking, Garnacha was a consistent performer, but Tempranillo struggled, with many showing an awkward, green/unripe side and noticeable alcoholic heat on the finish.

See all the wines from the Spanish rosado & clarete panel tasting

Clear disparity

The scores suggest I was more enthusiastic than my fellow judges about the claretes we tasted, although we all appreciated the variety and character on offer in these white-and-red-grape co-fermentations, which varied from light reds to those that more closely resembled orange wines.

Overall, perhaps our most significant finding was the big disparity between wines from the best producers and the rest. It may be the legacy of a time when rosé was effectively a by-product of red wine production.

But there’s a sense that some producers have, in Forster’s words, ‘underestimated the technical challenges associated with this form of winemaking and are struggling to find their way’.

Great rosés may be marked by an easygoing, easy-drinking grace, but making great rosé is by no means as easy as it looks.

Spanish rosado & clarete panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

David Williams is wine correspondent for The Observer, a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish, and a widely published wine writer, author and competition judge.

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he has a particular passion for the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America.

Diana Rollan is group head of beverage for D&D London restaurants group. A DWWA judge for Spain, she formerly managed training and wine buying at Hakkasan Group as its UK head of wine.

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Malu Lambert, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 1 Exceptional and 7 Outstanding.

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Panel tasting scores

43 wines tasted

Exceptional 1

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 21

Recommended 14

Commended 0

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2017 vintage red wines made from a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, and produced in the Stellenbosch WO district and/or its wards

This tasting showed off the pedigree of Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch, as well as the nuances of its top wards. The quality was high, with about two-thirds of the wines scoring above 90 points.

Cabernet is the most-planted red grape in South Africa (9,110ha in 2023: SAWIS) and the majority of plantings are in Stellenbosch. The differences can be subtle, but each delineated area has its own discernible character. The Outstanding wines were a reflection of this.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting

Key to the region are the many diverse aspects and altitudes created by mountains. The climate here is Mediterranean/maritime. Some wards are closer to the ocean than others – for example, you can see the blue line of the Atlantic from the Helderberg.

Two of the Outstanding wines were from this easterly section. The best wines from here can present with an innate freshness and a fine tannin structure. ‘Powerful and weighty yet still with lift and balance,’ as Andy Howard MW put it.

Also in the east is Jonkershoek, which boasts a core of shale soils surrounded by granite. All of the judges agreed that the Neil Ellis, Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon was ‘fresh, fresh and fresh’ – a hallmark of the area.

The lofty Banghoek also delivered two of the top wines. In the north of Stellenbosch, the vineyards here go up to about 600m. There’s an elegance and perfume to its best offerings, the vines growing on light soils of sandstone and granite. ‘I love the purity,’ said Roger Jones.

In contrast, a wine from the more ‘muscular’ Simonsberg in the [even further] north also caught our attention. High altitudes here and the high diurnal temperature range and sunlight exposure can imbue ‘depth and freshness’, according to Jones.

Meanwhile Bottelary in the northwest (one Outstanding wine) is generally considered a ‘sunnier’ part of Stellenbosch, meaning the wines here can be fruit-forward and powerful.

See all the wines from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting

Greater elegance

‘I found the 2017 vintage very impressive and balanced,’ remarked Howard. ‘South African Cabernet wasn’t always as elegant as this. There was [previously] a bit too much oak, and a smoky character.’

An analysis of the wines proves his point: alcohols are moderate for most and the trend is to use less new oak. ‘This vintage is a level up,’ agreed Jones.

Before the drought hit in 2018, the 2017 vintage benefited from the drying conditions. There was very little disease pressure and Cabernet saw uniform ripening with an extended growing season.

Moderate temperatures and cool evenings in February preserved acidity and phenolic ripeness. Yields were lower than usual; however, this ensured greater concentration.

‘South Africa is putting New World Cabernet Sauvignon back onto the map,’ declared Jones. He added that along with Stellenbosch, Margaret River in Western Australia’s and Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand ‘are all pushing for elegance, fruit and restraint’.

There’s also qualitative value to consider. ‘The wines are excellent and are generally mid-priced,’ he said.

‘Although I am hesitant to compare…’ concluded Howard, ‘I would say fine Bordeaux are the nearest to Stellenbosch’s refined style. There’s plenty of interest and many of the 2017s can be cellared until 2035.’

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Malu Lambert is a widely published wine writer based in South Africa. A taster for Platter’s Guide and judge on various panels, she won Emerging Wine Writer of the Year at the 2019 Louis Roederer Wine Writers’ Awards.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge, ambassador and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.

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