I still occasionally open wine lists and find myself lost. It’s part of wine’s appeal for me – that it’s an endless odyssey, for there are always more producers, more grapes, more styles and bottles to discover. But that’s exactly what can make it frustrating – seeming to be impenetrably complicated. Finding a book that can help you find a way in can also be challenging. The authors of three recent additions to the ‘introductory’ shelf have taken three very different approaches.

First up is Charlotte Kristensen’s Wine Taste Pair Pour (£20 Mitchell Beazley, 2024). This compact 224-pager is neatly put together and offers a supremely practical approach: the bulk of the book is a conventional, broad-brushstroke guide to grapes and wine styles, complemented by information on how to taste, how wine is made and food-pairing tips. This isn’t a book designed to be read cover-to-cover, but it’s a solid reference point for the novice, unlikely to daunt or overwhelm.

In Wine Confident (£25 Académie du Vin Library, 2024), Kelli White takes a different tack. The ex-sommelier consciously avoids looking at grapes and regions, instead focusing on the principles of wine: tasting, talking, buying, handling, collecting, understanding, making and growing. White’s writing is light and accessible yet entertaining and very, very smart. It’s more holistic in its approach, and there’s surprising depth in places, making it better suited for those who are already intrigued, ready to start disappearing down the rabbit hole of wine.

Last but not least is Tyler Balliet’s Rebel School of Wine (£28 Harper Collins, 2024). Too many introductory books can feel staid and stripped of the joy of wine; Balliet’s is determined to do the opposite. From the flurry of stickers that accompany it to the brightly coloured cover, this is a book that sashays into the room. I love Balliet’s approach and agree wholeheartedly with her that it’s the context that makes wine so fascinating.

It’s an ambitious book, encompassing a vast array of topics – which inevitably means some are brushed over a little quickly, but it’s packed with information. There are illustrations and diagrams throughout, handy box-outs and each section is broken down into bite-sized chunks.

Definitely not a traditional wine book, its diversion from the standard is what makes it stand out – it’s chatty, with Taylor Swift references (yes, I got them) and jokes that make it all a little less serious, a little more fun. If you’ve got a solid collection of classed growths and vintage Port in your cellar, this book isn’t for you. But it might just be perfect for your niece or nephew, son or daughter – the one who you desperately want to drink something other than Blossom Hill.

What’s in your glass?

Winner of a James Beard award, Drink: A Look Inside the Glass (2024, available to stream on Prime Video) is a five-part documentary series that goes behind the scenes at five producers – covering whisky, rum, beer, gin and Cognac. It’s slick and glossy but very soothing watching, offering gentle education via trailblazing names – from Will Lowe MW’s pioneering Cambridge Distillery to Mount Gay and Rémy Martin.

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Six new Peruvian wine grape varieties have been identified by researchers in the desert province of Caravelí in the Arequipa region of south Peru.

DNA tests conducted by the Instituto de Biotecnología de la Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina (IBT-UNALM) in Peru and the Instituto de Investigaciones Agropecuarias (INIA) in Chile have confirmed the identity of six new grape varieties: Jaen, Cantarilla, Ceniza (also known locally as Mulata), Negra de Caravelí, Loca and Moscatel Negra Rubío.

Each of these grape varieties is as yet unregistered with the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC).

At least two of the varieties, the white Jaén (above) and the red Cantarilla (top) – both natural crossings of Negra Criolla and a local variant of Moscatel d’Alexandría – are considered to have organoleptic characteristics worthy of propagation for wine production.

In addition, Ceniza, Negra de Caravelí, Loca and Moscatel Negra Rubío – four newly identified mutations of the Negra Criolla variety – have been deemed to warrant further research.

Lead researcher Keith Díaz (below), an agronomy engineer from the Caravelí region, is now seeking registration for these varieties in the VIVC international wine grape registry. In addition, Díaz is developing a digital ‘geo-referencing’ tool to ensure traceability and quality should anyone wish to propagate them.

‘From the study carried out, it has been possible to observe that two grapes – Cantarilla and Jaén – have the greatest potential for wine due to the good levels of tartaric acidity that they achieve in the field with an early harvest,’ Diaz said. ‘This is something that Ceniza, for example, did not show on this occasion.

‘It is important to continue experimenting with these grapes to obtain more complete data.’

Though best known as a Pisco-producing nation, Peru has a long history of wine production. The Spanish colonialists arrived in the early 1500s, bringing vine material to the Americas for the first time. Historical archives indicate the sale of vineyards in Lima in 1540. Lima was founded in 1535.

Until now Quebranta – a natural crossing of Negra Criolla and Mollar Cano used in Pisco production – was thought to be Peru’s only unique wine grape variety.

Caravelí is a small, isolated wine region with a mere 70ha under vine. It is located at around 1,700m above sea level, eight hours’ drive from the nearest city of Arequipa, and around five hours’ drive from the Majes Valley, its closest winemaking neighbour.

The grape census was undertaken by Díaz with ampelographic technical support from Sebastian Debernardi. Further support was provided by Mario Casas, president of the Wine and Pisco Makers Association of Caravelí. Financing for the project was provided by the Provincial Municipality of Caravelí.

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It may come as news to many Decanter readers that Peru even has a wine scene – let alone a rich history of wine production. In fact, it is the oldest wine-producing country in South America.

The area surrounding Lima, the capital of Peru, was where the Spanish conquistadors initially planted vines. Using grape varieties from the Canary Islands, they first made wine in the 16th century.

Historian Carlos Buller writes in his book Viticulture in Colonial Peru: ‘It’s likely that planting vines was one of the first things the Spanish did on their arrival, sometime in the 1530s, at different locations across the territory.’

These vineyards soon expanded southwards, mainly to Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna. This led to a golden age of wine production for Peru, when Peruvian wine was sold right across South America in the 17th and 18th centuries.

However, by the 19th century viticulture had been relegated to the sidelines. This was due to natural disasters: earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and even phylloxera. There were also economic difficulties in the form of commercial restrictions imposed by the Spanish crown and the need to plant other crops.

The surviving vineyards were focused on producing pisco, the traditional grape spirit of Peru, as well as the popular Borgoña – a sweet wine made from the Isabella hybrid.

But Peruvian winemakers are a proud, resilient breed. Today, after modernising their wineries and repurposing their vineyards with the help of international consultants, they are determined to surprise the world with their fine wines.

They certainly have a lot of reputation building ahead of them. But I wouldn’t bet against Peru…

Peruvian wine today

Currently Peruvian winemakers are split between two different paths, which both offer plenty of potential. One path is to choose European varieties, notably Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Tannat, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

The other is to opt for ‘patrimoniales’, or heritage grapes that have historically been used for pisco. These include Quebranta, Mollar, Negra Criolla (Chile’s País), Torontel, Moscatel Negro del Perú, Albilla (Palomino Fino) and Italia. Some of these have been around since viticulture first began in South America, while others were bred on the continent itself.

‘Producing wines from patrimoniales grapes is a way to differentiate ourselves,’ says Pedro Cuenca Espinoza, a sommelier and founder of Perú Vino, a leading distributor of Peruvian wines. ‘Producers have learned to adapt their vines and harvest times to obtain grapes for fine wines. Today, you can enjoy Quebranta rosés and Italia [the Peruvian name for Muscat of Alexandria] whites, both of which are very fresh, expressive and well made.’

Meanwhile, Luis Gómez, head of winemaking at Intipalka – who has worked at La Celia and Bodegas CARO in Argentina – is convinced that European varieties offer a more promising future in Peru.

‘We have terroirs with plenty of potential to produce unique expressions using varieties such as Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet and Muscat of Alexandria,’ he says. ‘We’re not ruling out patrimoniales varieties, but our main objective is to show that Peru can produce elegant wines with a distinctive flavour.’

On the map

Peru has about 15,000ha of vineyards destined for the production of pisco and sweet wines. But only a small portion of this surface area is used to produce quality grapes for dry wines.

From north to south, the viticultural region stretches from Lima, down through Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna. All of the terroirs are influenced by the Humboldt Current from the Pacific Ocean. The altitude and exposure provided by the Andes in arid areas at the northern edge of the Pacific coastal desert is also a factor.

Ica contains 50% of the quality vineyards of Peru and has three main sub-regions: Chincha, Pisco and the Ica Valley. Most of the vineyards are set at heights of between 400m and 650m above sea level. Their deep, sandy soils are rich in diatomite, calcium carbonate and minerals without much organic matter. The micro-climate – arid and subtropical – ensures a sizable thermal range, while the ocean breeze cools the otherwise warm climate.

Notable producers in Ica include Intipalka (Queirolo), Mimo, Ocucaje, Pampas de Ica and Tacama – a winery with the oldest vineyard in South America, dating back to 1540. All of them make pisco as well as fine wines from European and heritage varieties. Stand-out wines include Quebranta and Mollar rosés and whites from Muscat of Alexandria, Torontel and Albilla.

Regions and producers

In Chincha, Tabernero and Viña Vieja are traditional wineries producing international-class wines. Meanwhile in the Pisco Valley, heritage varieties come to the fore, as evidenced by the natural wines of Bodega Murga.

The Vítor and Caravelí Valleys are the hubs in Arequipa. Both valleys boast vineyards planted at heights above 1,200m in colluvial clay soils. The Vítor Valley produces mainly Malbec, known there as Burdeos, Moscatel Negro del Perú and Muscat of Alexandria for whites.

Paz-Soldán is the leading producer in the region. Caravelí is an important location in the history of Peruvian viticulture with heritage vineyards planted at heights of around 1,600 metres, where fruit is still fermented in centuries-old clay vessels and flagons.

Moquegua was an important viticultural centre in the 17th century, when it was known as the ‘Bordeaux of the Americas’. Today, Muscat of Alexandria, Moscatel Negro, Quebranta, Syrah and Malbec are the raw materials for the intriguing wines being made by the Viejo Molino winery.

Finally Tacna is the most southerly region in Peru with vineyards located at around 1,200m. There’s a vast range of different varieties here, as is reflected in the portfolio of Marqués Cariñoso, a winery that uses both European and heritage grapes.

Wines from Peru to try

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Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes intends to plant vines in Peru's Sacred Valley, near to the ancient city of Machu Picchu, to test the area's ability to produce wine.

Aurelio Montes is keen to experiment in Peru’s Sacred Valley. Image credit: Wikipedia / Charles Gadbois

Montes (pictured) told journalists at a dinner in London this week that the vineyard trial in Peru will begin next week.

‘We will plant five grape varieties to see how viticulture can progress there,’ Montes said, adding that the site, located in the Sacred Valley ‘on the way to Machu Picchu’ is around 3,000 metres above sea level. It is thought to be the first vineyard project in the area.

‘We are not sure whether the vines will live, but it’s good fun to try,’ said Montes. ‘We could have amazing results or we could rip all the vines out in two years.’

Peru had around 20,000 hectares of vines planted in 2012, according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), which said plantings had more than doubled since the turn of the 21st Century.

Montes said he gained access to the Sacred Valley site by approaching the wealthy importer of his wines in Peru. The importer, whom he did not name, owns the land and has agreed to enter a joint-venture with Montes.

Montes will initially plant just 1,000 vines at the site, including Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay.

‘If we get a good result, we may plant five hectares,’ he said.

Meet Aurelio Montes at the Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter

• Aurelio Montes will host a tasting of some Montes winery’s top wines, including Alpha M 1999, 2004 and 2009, at the inaugural Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter at the end of November. For more details, click here.

Written by Chris Mercer

Michelin's 2014 guide for UK & Ireland rewarded Peruvian restaurant Lima, as well as Heston Blumenthal, but Joel Robuchon was not so lucky.

(L-R: Lima founding partners Gabriel Gonzalez, executive chef Virgilio Martinez and Jose Luis)

London restaurant Lima has become the first Peruvian restaurant to gain a Michelin star, in a new set of ratings that has also seen Heston Blumenthal collect his sixth star.

Lima, which featured in Decanter Magazine’s South America-focused October issue, was among 15 restaurants picking up their first star in the Michelin Great Britain and Ireland Guide 2014.

‘It’s amazing, and also unexpected, because we only opened recently,’ Lima’s MD, Gabriel Gonzalez, told decanter.com.

‘South American food is becoming more and more popular, and Peru is leading the way,’ he added.

However, when it comes to wine, Gonzalez is not so partisan. Wines from South America constitute a maximum of 30% of those on Lima’s list, sitting alongside classic European regions, as well as Australia and New Zealand.

Other restaurants picking up their first star included Thomas Sellers’ Story, Nathan Outlaw’s namesake restaurant at the Capital Hotel and seafood restaurant Angler, where Tony Fleming is executive chef. Outside of London, there was also a first star for Wilks Restaurant in Bristol, described by judges as an ‘unpretentious neighbourhood restaurant’.

Elsewhere in the guide, Heston Blumenthal picked up a second star, and his sixth overall, for Dinner in central London. ‘As a Brit, I am very proud that a restaurant inspired by and celebrating historic British cooking has been recognised,’ he said.

However, others were not so lucky. A spokesperson for Petersham Nurseries Cafe said it was ‘no surprise’ after the group lost its only star. ‘This year they have completely changed the culinary team and so it is only natural that the ‘clock’ is reset,’ she said. The group has installed 25-year-old Cat Ashton to her first head chef position.

Judges also stripped London’s L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon of its second star, albeit leaving Robuchon with more than 20 stars to his name globally, easily making him Michelin’s most decorated chef.

Written by Chris Mercer