We explain the differences between the Left Bank and Right Bank regions of Bordeaux, primarily focusing on their geographical location, appellations, dominant grape varieties, soil types and wine characteristics.

The Left and Right Banks are separated by the Gironde Estuary and the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. The Left Bank is known for Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends, gravelly soils and tannic, structured wines. Key appellations include Pauillac and Margaux.

The Right Bank is known for Merlot-dominant blends, clay and limestone soils and softer, fruitier wines. Key appellations include Pomerol and St-Émilion.

We also explore wine classifications such as the 1855 Classification of the Médoc and the St-Émilion Classification, as well as the impact of vintages and new grape varieties on the regions.

Situated on the west coast of France, Bordeaux is split in two by the Gironde Estuary, which divides into the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. When looking at a map of the region, the area to the north and right of the Gironde is the Right Bank and the areas below and to the left constitute the Left Bank.

More specifically, the Right Bank is the area to the north of the Dordogne river and the Left Bank is the area directly south of the Garonne River, both of which feed into the Gironde estuary that meets the Atlantic Ocean.

The joining of these three forms a shape like an upside down ‘Y’ with the two banks on either side and the area in between known as the ‘Entre-deux-Mers’.

Left vs Right Bank Bordeaux: Appellations

The Left Bank encompasses the Médoc wine region north of Bordeaux. Its four best-known appellations – from north to south – are St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien and Margaux.

It also encompasses the Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc and Moulis-en-Médoc appellations. South of Bordeaux, the Left Bank includes Pessac-Léognan and Graves, plus the (largely) sweet wine producing appellations of Sauternes and Barsac.

The Right Bank’s most famous appellations are Pomerol and St-Émilion, the latter of which has four ‘satellite’ appellations. These are Montagne-, Lussac-, Puisseguin- and St-Georges St-Émilion.

However, the Right Bank also encompasses the: Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Bourg, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac, Lalande-de-Pomerol, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux and Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux.

River dissections aside, there are several important distinctions between the banks, most notably the dominance of specific red grape varieties.

Left Bank Cabernet

While all of the Left Bank wines are usually blends, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant force here. Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc tend to play supporting roles.

As ever in the wine world, there are exceptions. Despite the prevailing narrative, there are many parts of the Médoc where Merlot is a dominant, if not the dominant component in blends. Château Clarke in Listrac-Médoc, for example, considers its soils more suited to Merlot in general. Its 2018 grand vin is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The terroir of the Left Bank is mostly flat with gentle undulations in the landscape. Soils are largely composed of alluvial gravels with limestone underneath. That said, the composition can vary substantially from one vineyard to the next and there are large clay deposits in some appellations.

Wines typically have more tannin and a bigger overall structure than their Right Bank counterparts. Pauillac, in particular, has a reputation for producing powerful, muscular wines.

This has been particularly evident in several recent vintages such as the 2021 and 2023, where low volumes and/or poor quality Merlot crops has led to some wines being made with record high proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Experience the elegance of Pessac-Léognan – join the Château Smith Haut Lafitte Masterclass at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025Book your place

Right Bank Merlot

Right Bank wines are predominantly Merlot-based, with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot used as blending components.

Some estates have sought to increase their use of Cabernet Franc in recent years, for its ability to deliver freshness in the glass.

For example, the proportion of Cabernet Franc in Cheval Blanc’s grand vin has been creeping up in recent vintages, now comprising around 46% of the final blend.

The most famous terroir is the large limestone plateau that surrounds the pretty town of St-Émilion itself. This is where the majority of the appellation’s great domaines can be found. The slopes of the plateau and lower-lying areas are dominated by clay soils.

In nearby Pomerol, on the outskirts of the riverside entrepôt of Libourne, there is no limestone. However, the composition of the soils is much more like that of the Left Bank with alluvial gravels and sand, albeit with much more clay mixed in. Many of the best châteaux border St-Émilion.

The Right Bank is also notable for smaller vineyard plots than on the Left Bank, most notably in Pomerol. There, estates manage an average holding of five hectares in size, while some Left Bank estates are more than 100ha.

The wines tend to be rich in fruit, softer in mouthfeel with less tannin and acid than wines from the Left Bank. As ever, however, generalisations rarely hold much water when it comes to wine.

And while there are plenty of wines that are also enjoyable when young, the best wines from the Right Bank are more than capable of ageing happily for many decades.

New varieties

In early 2021, France’s national appellation body, INAO approved the use of six new grape varieties in Bordeaux, as part of efforts to combat climate change.

However, not all appellations are able to use them, and they will most likely be used in AOC Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur, Entre-deux-Mers and the Côtes de Bordeaux wines.

Left vs Right bank Bordeaux: Vintages

Top Left and Right Bank Bordeaux châteaux can produce extremely long-lived wines, particularly in the right vintage conditions.

You may sometimes hear critics speak of a ‘Right Bank’ or ‘Left Bank’ vintage, depending upon whether conditions have favoured later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, which tends to ripen earlier.

However, the situation is often more complex, and can depend upon many variables, from soil types to cellar management. Plus, weather does not always neatly divide itself between the two banks.

Both vineyard and cellar management techniques have evolved hugely in the last two decades, leaving estates vastly better-equipped to deal with difficult years than they were before.

In a rather mixed metaphor, technology has both levelled the playing field across appellations and starkened the contrast between estates at all levels.

The greater the means of an individual château the more it will be able to grow, pick, sort and choose only the very best quality fruit in a given vintage.

As a result, the very best estates are increasingly able to transcend especially hot or wet vintage conditions.

The refrain from critics in more recent years, therefore, is to treat each château on an individual basis rather than rely on ideas of one region or appellation being superior to another.

1855 Classification

With close to 125,000 hectares of vineyards and as many as 60 separate appellations, Bordeaux is one of the most highly classified wine regions in the region.

The most famous of them all is the official 1855 Classification of the Médoc.

It’s a five-tier hierarchy, led by the five ‘first growths’ of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild.

Haut-Brion was included in the original 1855 list, drawn up for Emperor Napoleon III, even though it sits in Graves. Mouton was promoted to the top tier in 1973.

There are then second, third, fourth and fifth growth estates. The ever-improving quality of winemaking in Bordeaux has left some questioning how relevant this classification system really is.

Over the decades, it has often noted that while some classed growth estates have improved dramatically, others have languished.

There is no doubt that some second growths are producing wines that rival the firsts, and some third, fourth or fifth classified estates are producing better or at least more consistent wines than properties in the rung above.

Epithets such as ‘Super Second’ and ‘Flying Fifth’ have been applied to those châteaux deemed to be out-performing in this way.

However, for those châteaux that were ranked in the 1855 classification, being part of the club is clearly a point of pride and it is unlikely there will be any changes – or new admissions any time soon.

Other Left Bank classifications

Further south, Sauternes producers also got a classification system in 1855, devised alongside the one in Médoc as part of celebrations around the Exposition Universelle de Paris that year. Producers were split into first and second growths – or Premiers and Deuxièmes Crus Classés – but Château d’Yquem was given special dispensation as a ‘Premier Cru Supérieur’.

A classification for dry red and white Graves wines was devised in 1953 and finalised in 1959. It includes 16 cru classé estates, all of which sit inside the Pessac-Léognan appellation today.

The Left Bank is also home to the Cru Bourgeois classification, which was recently relaunched as a three-tier system.

St-Émilion classification

On the Right Bank, you’ll find the St-Émilion Classification, first introduced in 1955. Unlike the 1855 Classifications, this ranking is frequently reviewed, currently every 10 years.

In the 2012 list, 82 estates were divided into 64 Grand Cru Classé estates and 18 Premier Grand Cru Classé properties – themselves separated into ‘A’ and ‘B’ rankings.

Château Angélus and Château Pavie joined Ausone and Cheval Blanc as Premier Grand Cru Classé A estates in 2012. However, the fallout from the 2012 classification was extremely litigious and lasted until the most recent review in 2022.

In the interim there were various legal cases and Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Angélus and some other estates gradually excused themselves from the classification proceedings.

Nonetheless, the 2022 classification went ahead, promoting Château Figeac to Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ status alongside Pavie.

A further 12 estates were recognised as Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘B’ and 71 as Grands Crus Classés.

Beyond this, you will also see bottle labels stating ‘St-Émilion Grand Cru’, which is an appellation.

Originally published in April 2020, and updated in April 2021 and June 2024. 

Related articles:

What is a Bordeaux blend? Ask Decanter

Bordeaux Vintage Guide

Bordeaux 2023: Verdict and top-scoring wines

The course of the leading wine-producing countries of South America was set in the second half of the 19th century. It was determined both by the arrival of French varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon especially – and the savoir-faire of European immigrants.

Meanwhile winery owners would often travel to Bordeaux to learn from the leading châteaux there.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 22 top South American Bordeaux blends

The early stages of South American viticulture were thus inspired by the grands crus classés, although over time, each country has developed its own formula for its Bordeaux blends. While sticking mainly to Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenère), they have also allowed themselves a little creative license.

South America has enjoyed some of the best vintages in its history – especially 2018, 2019 and 2021. In addition, winemakers have applied unprecedented levels of precision in terms of terroir selection, vineyard management, harvest times and oak regime, using much-improved materials, and a range of formats and sizes.

Thanks to these efforts, many recent Bordeaux blends have proved to be stunning wines destined to become landmarks of New World viticulture. Now is certainly the time to find a place for them in your cellar.

Regional differences

‘After Bordeaux, Chile has the largest surface area under vine with Cabernet Sauvignon on the planet,’ says Michel Friou, winemaker at Almaviva, explaining why the category has become a pillar for Chilean wines.

However, Merlot, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are also widespread across the different Chilean regions, with Cabernet Sauvignon or Carmenère generally providing the base for flagship red wines in Chile, mixed with a combination of the aforementioned grape varieties.

In Argentina, meanwhile, Bordeaux blends are generally built on a base of Malbec. ‘In the mid-19th century there was as much Malbec (Cot) in Bordeaux as Merlot and it was often used for grand cru classé wines, so the leading Argentinian blends are actually based on an ancient formula,’ says Fernando Buscema at Catena Zapata, explaining that Malbec is in fact just as classical a choice as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.

Historically, the most exclusive reds produced by wineries in Argentina have been blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot.

Across the Rio de la Plata in Uruguay, meanwhile, most wineries produce a high-end Bordeaux blend that features Tannat, the country’s standout variety.

Below I share my 22 essential wines that embody the delightful potential of these South American Bordeaux blends.

Top 22 South American Bordeaux blends

Related content: 

South American Cabernet Sauvignon: setting the standard

Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2021

Andy Howard MW, Robert Mathias and Tim Triptree MW tasted 65 wines, with 6 Outstanding and 42 Highly recommended.

Red Graves 2016 panel tasting

65 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 42

Recommended 17

Commended 0

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their Pessac-Léognan and Graves AP red wines, from the 2016 vintage only.

Over in Bordeaux, the 2016 vintage is acknowledged as one of the finest of the century – so far!

This added extra interest to an exciting tasting of red wines from Graves and Pessac-Léognan, already notable for being the last ever Decanter panel tasting to be held in its former Canary Wharf office, before the company’s move to offices in Paddington, west London.

Scroll down for the top scoring red Graves 2016 tasting notes and scores

The judges were highly impressed with 2016’s winning combination of succulent, ripe fruit interwoven with fine tannins and an enduring freshness on the finish.

Out of 65 wines tasted, six were awarded scores of 95 points (and above), with almost one third of the wines tasted scoring 93pts or more.

Graves and Pessac-Léognan are located southwest of Bordeaux on the Left Bank of the river Garonne. ‘Graves’ refers to the gravel deposits which characterise much of the region’s soils. Although larger in area than the Médoc, Graves produces about 50% of the volume of wine and is, with the exception of a couple of top estates, less revered.

The wines of the Graves can be beautifully perfumed and often have an earthy, mineral character which distinguishes them from the more blackcurrant and lead-pencil style of many Haut-Médoc wines.

Graves was first granted appellation status in 1953, with Pessac-Léognan separated out from it as an appellation and confirmed in 1987. This tasting did not feature Châteaux Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Les Carmes Haut-Brion or Smith Haut Lafitte, but included several of the Pessac-Léognan cru classé estates. These did live up to their higher AP status, with six out of the seven wines present scoring 93pts and above, and three rated Outstanding – Pape Clément, Carbonnieux and Latour-Martillac.

Tim Triptree MW was impressed, stating that ‘overall quality was high and confirmed the outstanding quality of the 2016 vintage’.

Triptree found ‘the best examples were harmonious and powerful, rich – wines with depth of black fruit flavours, yet balanced with freshness and elegance, and silky ripe tannin’. Robert Mathias, Bordeaux buyer for Bibendum Wine, agreed, commenting: ‘Almost all wines had a freshness and acidity which can often be lacking with wines that are fleshy on the palate.’

See all 65 Red Graves 2016 tasted

The panel noted the range of grape varieties used within the blends. Although Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon dominate, judicious use of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot was appreciated. Triptree observed: ‘Blending grape varieties is important, with many of the top-scoring wines having a decent amount of Cabernet Sauvignon which added freshness, as well as well-judged additions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.’

Mathias also felt ‘the wines had good concentration of fruit, the best being very detailed on the palate with a lot of power and energy behind them’. He was intrigued by the number of wines incorporating a higher proportion of one grape in particular: ‘What was interesting was the growing use, and successful integration, of Petit Verdot’. And although a couple of wines were a little tannic as a result, this ‘added an extra dimension’.

The quality of 2016 Graves and Pessac Léognan wines is undoubtedly high, while the relative value they present is likely to be more attractive than for many leading Haut-Médoc or St-Emilion wines.

Combined with the distinctive Graves character, and excellent ageing potential, these 2016s are classic Bordeaux wines, and well worth stocking up on.

Red Graves 2016 panel tasting: top-scoring wines

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing, and has a house in southwest France

Robert Mathias is a wine buyer for London-based Bibendum Group, responsible for sourcing wines from France as well as fine wine purchasing. He has been a DWWA judge since 2019, tasting across a range of regional categories

Tim Triptree MW is the international director of wine and spirits at Christie’s, responsible for the planning and execution of Christie’s wine and spirits auctions internationally. A Master of Wine since 2018, at DWWA 2021 he was a judge on the Rhône and Bordeaux panels

Related content

California Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 and 2018: panel tasting resultsNew-wave Rioja: panel tasting resultsSouth African Pinotage: panel tasting results

The Institute of the Masters of Wine (IMW) held its annual Bordeaux tasting at Vintners’ Hall on Wednesday 1st December. The focus this year was the great 2016 vintage, although the normal timetable of events had been drastically altered by the pandemic.

The IMW historically looks at around 100 wines four years after the vintage, ranging from leading red Bordeaux through dry-white wines and a selection of Sauternes/Barsac.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top 30 recently-tasted Bordeaux 2016 wines 

The 2016 tasting had been due to take place in November 2020 but was cancelled due to Covid-19 restrictions, despite the 1,000+ wines for the tasting already having been delivered.

As a result, the tasting was a year out of kilter, with the Institute planning to catch-up by holding the 2017 vintage tasting in March 2022 and the 2018 vintage next November. The IMW also runs a slightly scaled-back version of the tasting in the US and Australia – dates currently TBC.

Samples were organised through Le Conseil des Grand Crus Classés en 1855, whilst Dourthe in Bordeaux assisted with the logistics.

The 103 wines at the tasting ranged across the Cru Classés, together with St-Emilion, Pomerol, dry white and sweet wines.

First-growths were well represented, although Château Lafite-Rothschild was not available this year. Yquem was included, together with Cheval Blanc and Angélus, but there are still some noteworthy absentees – Pavie, Ausone, Vieux Château Certan, Pape Clément, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Léoville Poyferré and Palmer.

The main focus of the tasting – the extremely highly rated 2016 vintage – is yet another contender (along with 2005, 2009, 2010 and 2015) for the ‘vintage of the century’ award.

Many would say that 2016 has clawed its way to the top of this illustrious list as it delivers pretty much everything one could want in top-quality Bordeaux red wines.

Vintage comparisons

2005 remains a sturdy, tannic vintage with many wines yet to deliver on early promise, whilst 2009 is almost the polar opposite – full of joyous, ripe, fleshy fruit.

2010 is a monumental vintage which I preferred to 2009 when young but am less sure about that judgement today.

2015 was undoubtedly another very fine vintage with many right bank wines getting everything right – Canon, Figeac, Pavie and Cheval Blanc were all anointed with 100 points.

However, 2016 seems to be a combination of not only all of these top-quality vintages but also brings with it a freshness and elegance that has been missing from certain Bordeaux wines in the past 10-15 years.

100 points have been given to a range of 2016’s – Figeac and Pavie (again), Vieux Château Certan, Pichon Lalande, Leoville-Las Cases and Lafite- and Mouton-Rothschild. However, it appears that the number of 95+ wines is greater in 2016 than the preceding year.

2016 vintage conditions

Wine producers in Bordeaux had a very different result to those in Burgundy in 2016.

The winter was mild and wet, with water reserves replenished. In April, Bordeaux encountered cloudy skies and this saved the vineyards from the ravages of frost which decimated Burgundy and the Loire on 29 April. A small window of fine weather in June encouraged rapid and successful flowering, before cold and wet weather returned. July and August were hot and dry, with this continuing into early-September. Rain fell on 13 September, giving the vines much needed water. Merlot was picked from the end of September, whilst Cabernet Sauvignon was picked up until the third week of October.

The right-bank performed well, particularly those vineyards on water-retaining clay soils. However, it seems that the more northern parts of the Haut-Médoc are consistently strong. Pauillac, St-Julien and St-Estèphe are all home to some truly great wines. These are wines with classic left-bank characters of intense blackcurrant fruit, matched with fine tannins, freshening acidity and distinctive mineral, lead-pencil notes. All this has been achieved with alcohol levels under control.

Wine enthusiasts can buy from across the board in 2016 and are unlikely to be disappointed. Unfortunately, the vintage’s reputation has driven the highest-scoring wines to even more lofty prices. And, although the consistent quality of 2016 was clearly apparent at the IMW tasting, it did seem as though a number of wines were in a ‘closed’ and ‘tight’ phase of development. This will be a passing phase and I expect that some of my scores will be revised upwards over the next 3-4 years.

Many of these wines, carefully stored, will drink fantastically for 20, 30 or 40 years.

Ten Bordeaux 2016 value picks

94 points

Château Saint-Pierre, St-Julien (4ème Cru Classé)

93 points

Château Prieuré-Lichine, Pauillac (4ème Cru Classé)

92 points

Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (5ème Cru Classé)

Château Boyd-Cantenac, Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)

Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)

Château Nénin, Pomerol

Château de Myrat, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé

Château Corbin, St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)

91 points

Château La Croix du Casse, Pomerol

See Andy Howard MW’s tasting notes and scores for 30 top-scoring and best-value Bordeaux 2016 wines

Related content

Which Bordeaux vintages to drink this ChristmasChâteau de Millery: a hidden gem in St-EmilionWhite Graves: panel tasting results

Bordeaux may be a Merlot-Cabernet-centric region, but a smattering of other red varieties subsist alongside. Look at the figures: Merlot accounts for 66% of the region’s red plantings, Cabernet Sauvignon 22% and Cabernet Franc 9%, leaving a meagre 3% of ‘other red varieties’. For these read: Carmenère, Malbec and Petit Verdot. While not exactly household names – though still officially authorised and very much part of the region’s DNA – these three secondary varieties are belatedly stirring interest as growers rediscover their potential as a single variety or as a component in a blend.

All three varieties were very much in evidence in 18th- and 19th-century Bordeaux. Carmenère, a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Gros Cabernet, originated in the Gironde and was widely planted in the Médoc. Malbec (or Côt), originally from Cahors, was planted in Bordeaux from the mid-18^th century on. History relates it was cultivated at Château de Pressac in St-Emilion around 1747, hence the local name for Malbec, Pressac or Noir de Pressac, which still holds today.

Petit Verdot was initially thought to have come from the Gironde, but ampelographic (the field of botany concerned with the identification and classification of vines) and genetic research suggests provenance in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. How it settled in the Gironde is less clear, but its 19th-century reputation was definitively tied to Bordeaux and in particular the Médoc, which today still maintains over half the region’s plantings.

The total extent of the surface area for all three by the mid-19th century is unrecorded, but it was clearly significant: Carmenère and Petit Verdot used in Médoc blends, and Malbec gradually dominating on the Right Bank. Until the advent of phylloxera (in the late 1860s and the 1870s), for instance, Malbec represented 80% of plantings in the Côtes de Bourg.

Renewed interest

It was phylloxera that reduced the presence of all three of these secondary varieties in Bordeaux, and the 1956 frost further decimated Malbec. Vines were destroyed and growers were averse to replanting them due to the difficulties they pose in cultivation. Carmenère is low-fruiting and susceptible to coulure (poor fruit set) so has irregular yields. Petit Verdot is naturally productive and has shoots and stems that break easily, so it needs plenty of work and attention in the vineyard; like Carmenère, it is also late-ripening. Malbec initially proved difficult when grafted on to American rootstock, is over-productive and sensitive to coulure.

The nadir of this was seen in the CIVB (Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux) figures for 2000, which show total plantings in the region of just 4ha Carmenère, 375ha Petit Verdot and 966ha Malbec. These have since increased respectively to 56ha, 1,093ha and 1,791ha in 2018, so clearly growers have found motivation to plant again. Global warming has helped considerably in their newfound popularity, as have improved viticultural techniques and new clones and rootstocks.

Carmenère is still the most marginal of the three. Its low yields and difficulty in ripening fully make it the least attractive. ‘It has the same growing cycle as Cabernet Sauvignon up to véraison (the period when berries begin to ripen), but from then on the maturity is protracted so it stays vegetal much longer,’ explains Christophe Capdeville, general manager of Margaux second growth Château Brane-Cantenac. The estate replanted the variety in 2007 but it has only been used in the grand vin in 2011, 2015 and 2016, and then up to a maximum of 1% of the blend.

As a single variety it lacks distinction, but growers who cultivate Carmenère agree that if fully ripe it can add a little pep to a blend. ‘It offers an exotic, spicy note,’ says Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, manager of Pauillac fifth growth Château Clerc Milon. The estate has an old parcel that was planted in 1947. Back at Château Brane-Cantenac, Capdeville appreciates ‘the silky tannins, which add something to the texture of the palate’. Plantings of Carmenère remain discreet and mainly Left Bank-oriented but there are exceptions. Châteaux de Fonbel and de Pressac in St-Emilion cultivate a little, as does Château de Bouillerot in the Entre-Deux-Mers.

Positive influences

The other Médoc-leaning variety is Petit Verdot. Its attributes include colour, acidity, sugar potential and tannin. It is also resistant to downy mildew, a positive factor in 2018. On the negative side, it is naturally high-yielding, awkward to cultivate, late-ripening and sensitive to powdery mildew and rot. In the past this would have been a turn-off for growers, but improved viticultural practices and global warming now make the difficulties surmountable.

Low yields are compulsory, with producers today aware that 40hl/ha is the ceiling. ‘The key to quality is the yield,’ says Sabrina Pernet, technical director at Margaux third growth Château Palmer. Each year the Petit Verdot is reduced down to 25-35hl/ha via an extensive green harvest, a procedure introduced in the early part of the new millennium.

Other factors that have assisted with quality are the use of less vigorous rootstocks, planting on earlier-ripening sites with sufficient moisture to avoid stress, the use of better vine material and, of course, climate. The new millennium has generally seen warm to hot summers and clement weather during the harvesting period. ‘The vegetal element in Petit Verdot is no longer a problem,’ says Thierry Bos of Château de Bouillerot.

For most producers Petit Verdot is again seen as a blending component. It can enhance colour, power, density of structure and freshness, but is considered a little too rustic to use in large doses. ‘It’s a complementary grape variety that can reduce elegance if not handled carefully,’ confirms Philippe Bascaules, managing director of Château Margaux.

Contradicting this rule, Patrice de Bortoli of Château Moutte Blanc in Macau, Médoc, has been making the 100% Petit Verdot Moisin since 1994. It is indeed muscular but ages well. He has been joined by the Dubourdieu family of Château Reynon in Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. This year they released a single-variety wine, Hommage à Denis Dubourdieu 2018, in memory of the late oenologist-winemaker and his appreciation of the variety.

Wines for today Malbec used to be planted throughout Bordeaux but eventually found its home on the Right Bank and in the Entre-Deux-Mers, where it can still be found today. With its large berries and bunches, it too can be high-yielding, so volume needs to be carefully managed. At the same time, it is also susceptible to coulure and rot. But as Bos points out: ‘It adapts well to clay-limestone soils and can deliver the sort of fresh, fruit-driven wines demanded by today’s market.’

At a glance:Carmenère, Malbec & Petit Verdot

Carmenère

Total plantings: 56ha

Flavour profile: Green bean if underripe; spice, exotic notes

Characteristics: Late-ripening, irregular production, low acidity, light but fine tannins

Application: Blends

Malbec

Total plantings: 1,791ha

Flavour profile: Fruity (dark fruit), floral

Characteristics: Productive, good colour and acidity, zesty fruit, structured

Application: Single variety, blends

Petit Verdot

Total plantings: 1,093ha

Flavour profile: Dark fruit, floral (violet), spice, pepper

Characteristics: Late-ripening, productive, deep colour, tannic power/structure, good acidity

Application: Blends, single variety

The Côtes de Bourg is once again at the forefront of promoting the variety. At the beginning of the new millennium just 5% of the appellation was planted to Malbec, but a number of internal initiatives have helped the figure rise to 10% or about 400ha. The grape variety can be found in blends or labelled as a single variety; the Côtes de Bourg a rare sub-regional or communal appellation where this is permitted. A regional joint venture with a vine nursery will also see two new qualitative clones available from 2021.

Plantings of Malbec in Bordeaux are a mix of old vine material, massal selection (propagating cuttings from existing vines, with the aim of preserving clonal diversity and quality) from the old vines and two or three commercial clones. Questioning the qualitative nature of the latter, David Barrault of Château Tire Pé in the Entre-Deux-Mers sourced his massal selection Malbec from old vines in Cahors when he planted the variety in 2002. The clay-limestone soils, planting density of 5,000 vines per hectare and yields of 40-50hl/ha have produced a benchmark fresh, floral style.

With the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité) deliberating on the use of seven other grape varieties in Bordeaux (some distinctly non-Bordeaux), Barrault has already jumped the gun by planting two old and forgotten Bordeaux varieties, Castets and Mancin. Peppery and fresh with relatively low alcohol, they too could offer another perspective for the region.

The Merlot-Cabernet hegemony will take some shifting, but for savvy Bordeaux producers looking for an alternative expression, delving into the old grape varieties of the past could be the way to go.

Lawther’s pick: Bordeaux with a different accent

See also: What does Petit Verdot add to a wine? Ask Decanter 

Bottles produced: 250,000

Grapes: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot

Yield: 45 hL/ha

Alcohol: 13%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2013-2027

Price UK: £120 (Magnum)

Price US: $200 (Magnum)

The vintage: A benchmark year for Bordeaux, 2005 has gone down as a triumph for many. ‘It would have needed a very poor winemaker to introduce vegetal notes and a stupid one to over-extract,’ said Steven Spurrier after the 2005 en primeur tastings. Cabernet wines were noted for their excellent ripeness. Drinking well now but the top names should have plenty of years left in them.

The wine: Harvest took place from 21st September to 10th October in dry and sunny conditions with more than 100 pickers collecting the fruit. The grapes were vinified in stainless steel tanks before 20 months aging in French oak (60% new), with racking every three months. The final wine was blended after barrel selection.

Bottles produced: 335,000

Grapes: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot

Yield: 52 hL/ha

Alcohol: 12.8%

Format: Magnum

Drink from/to: 2010-2025

Price UK: £200 (magnum)

Price US: $250 (magnum)

The vintage: Budbreak came on 25th March after a cold start to the year, followed by a mixed May then a heatwave in June that saw good flowering. July was cool and wet for the first half, hot and dry in the second half, then August alternated between rain and a heatwave. There was fine weather again in September and most of October. All in all, it was a very good vintage for the Médoc.

The wine: Manual harvest was followed by sorting in the vineyard then vinification in oak vats. The wine matured in small oak barriques (50% new) for 18 months before blending and bottling.

Decanter review/reaction: At this stage the colour is firmly in the rich claret zone – ruby red, not overly intense but full of life. The wine is very enjoyable and has that lovely St-Julien signature of rich black fruits floating over a bed of air, as the acidity in the Cabernet takes flight. This gives it a sense of poise and confidence, and again the signature mouth-watering finish. It’s not going for intensity and punch, but for complexity and elegance without sacrificing fruit – there are dark, spicy notes in here. 93 points – Jane Anson, December 2018

Bordeaux‘s signature grape varieties have traversed the globe, to the extent that Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have risen to the summit of the world grape planting league in the past two decades.

What’s in a Bordeaux red blend?

A Bordeaux red blend usually combines two or more of the classic Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Carmenère and Malbec. A white blend would most likely include at least two from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle.

It is not a legal or technical term

There are no specific rules on percentages in the finished wine, yields when growing or planting regulations as found in Bordeaux itself. It is simply a term for the grapes used.

Meritage

However, some wines made in the USA may use the trade marked term ‘Meritage’ on labels, if they are a member of the Meritage Association. This means that the wine must combine two or more of the five red varieties above, and can also use St. Macaire, Gros Verdot and Carmenère. No single variety can constitute more than 90% of the finished wine.

Are they just copies of Bordeaux wines?

It’s not as if winemakers on Tuscany’s Bolgheri coast or on the gravel soils of Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand are seeking to make carbon copies of Bordeaux wines. Climate, as well as vineyard and cellar techniques, differ within and between areas.

And it’s completely up to the winemakers themselves whether or not to use the term ‘Bordeaux blend’ when describing their wines.

Yet, there is a sense, too, of paying hommage to what Bordeaux has achieved in terms of structured wines that are built to last – sometimes for many years.

While the existence of Bordeaux blends, even as a term in itself, underlines the maritime French region’s enduring position as a benchmark for fine wines, it also says something about the versatility of the grapes themselves.

Find Andy Howard MW’s 54 Bordeaux blends from around the world in the April 2020 issue of Decanter, on sale now, or available for Decanter Premium subscribers. 

More wine questions answered here

The articles started coming thick and fast from early July onwards. Liber Pater had officially become the most expensive modern Bordeaux wine, with its 2015 vintage on sale at €30,000 a bottle.

And as ever with stories around Liber Pater, I was torn somewhere between admiring owner Loïc Pasquet for his chutzpah/audacity/confidence, and banging my head against a wall.

I read several pieces that said this was the highest altitude vineyard in Bordeaux and the wine was purely made from pre-Phylloxera ancient grape varieties no longer used in the Bordeaux vineyard. Neither statements are true.

And above all that, there were articles suggesting that 2015 Liber Pater offers the true taste of Bordeaux in 1855. Oh, come on…

I finally made it back down to the vineyard towards the end of August. My aim, as ever when I meet up with Pasquet, was to try to cut through the hype and see what was actually going on. I left feeling for the first time that I was getting closer to understanding the reality of project.

‘It is simply not the case that the wine is made up of grapes that are no longer found in Bordeaux.’

What is true is that from 2015, Liber Pater comes from 100% ungrafted vines, which in itself is pretty remarkable, and that it uses farming methods rarely seen in the region. I have walked through the vineyard several times over the past few years, and it is looking healthy and happily wild right now.

Its certified organic vines are left in permaculture as much as possible, and all grow on individual stakes, with no training wires between them.

This makes the 20,000 vines-per-hectare density – equal to a distance between rows of 60cm and between each vine of 80cm – easier to understand because it means you can walk, and work, between them fairly easily.

But, they are not the only ones in Bordeaux to do this. Jean-Philippe Janoueix, for instance, is among the producers to have vines at the same density.

One of the first producers in Bordeaux to popularise training vines along wires was Marcel Richier, the agronomist owner of Château d’Agassac in the mid 19th century. He arrived in 1841, and it was called the Agassac Method for a while.

This means that Pasquet can also fairly claim that he is recreating the traditional method used to cultivate vines; a technique practised not just in 18th century Bordeaux, but by the ancient Greeks and Romans.

But that’s not to say you should buy wholesale into the hype.

Yes, Pasquet is planting rare varieties, and should be congratulated for it in my opinion, but it is simply not the case that the wine is made up of grapes that are no longer found in Bordeaux.

The blend of the 2015 vintage that is being offered – all 200 bottles of it – for such large sums of money is almost entirely Cabernet Sauvignon.

But he refers to it under its old name Petite-Vidure, just as Lafleur refers to its massal-selected Cabernet Franc as Bouchet, to underline its difference from modern clones.

At Liber Pater, this is put together with small amounts of Petit Verdot and Malbec, and around 2% of the rare varieties – mainly Castets, Tarney and St-Macaire.

The 2018 vintage, which I tasted from amphorae, will have a little more of the rare varieties, but will still be dominated by ungrafted Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

That’s not to criticise, but just for clarity.

And it’s a hugely impressive wine. The Cabernet from different parts of the vineyard is being aged separately, with everything in amphorae, jalles and earthenware vats, a development since the early years that is thoroughly sensible, so you can track the taste without oak interference.

Tasting them ‘blind’ revealed them to be in the Cabernet family, but not like the more classic Cabernet of today. They had a delicacy and a vibrancy to them that was genuinely exciting, and it’s a shame that the price puts them out of reach of, well, pretty much everyone.

Rare grapes on the rise in Bordeaux

But do a little digging and you can see Liber Pater as a signpost towards a host of other projects happening right now in Bordeaux that give an insight into the 19th century vineyard and its wines – without the price tag.

Estates planting rare grape varieties include Clos Puy Arnaud in Castillon, which has Mancin and Castets from massal selection that will make up 2% of the vineyard in the next few years.

Château de la Vieille Chapelle in Bordeaux has Bouchalès, Mancin, Cot [a previous name for Malbec], Castets and Carménère.

Château Le Puy in Francs Côtes de Bordeaux and Château de Claribès in St-Foy Côtes de Bordeaux are currently deciding which ones to plant.

I’m also looking forward to trying the 100% Castets and 100% Mancin bottlings that Liber Pater has planned under the name Liberi Bellaria in the years to come.

You can also find pre-Phylloxera Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes up at Clos Manou in the Médoc, in their stunning cuvée 1850 that is one of the best wines I have tasted all year. It’s priced at less than €30 from the estate.

Then there is Haut-Bailly with its four-hectare plot of 1890s grapes that goes into the first wine every year. It is a collection of rare genetic material of Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, all mixed up together in the rows as they would have been in the 19th century. Some American rootstock has been added to protect against phylloxera.

Over in St-Emilion, Trottevielle has more than 3,000 ungrafted Cabernet Franc vines from the 1890s that have been bottled as a separate cuvée since 2004.

Château de la Vieille Chapelle is one of the most advanced in its rare grape project.

Right back in 2009 they used DNA analysis to identify the Bouchalès grape from a small plot of pre-Phylloxera vines.

In 2014 they carried out a full study of the 400 vines in the same plot, all non-grafted, 19th century vines, and discovered 11 forgotten varieties including one unidentified hybrid.

Since 2016 this has expanded into a project of massal selection that has involved replanting with a focus on five varieties over two hectares. Those varieties are Bouchalès, Mancin, Cot (Malbec), Castets and Carménère, with the first plants in this year and the debut harvest expected in 2021.

But you can already try examples, such as the estate’s ‘C’est Bon Le Vin’ bottling, which is 65% Bouchalès, 25% Merlot and 10% other rare Bordeaux grapes. This wine was made in 2006, 2008 and 2010, when the winemaking team believed the ungrafted vines to be Merlot and Petit Verdot.

There is also a more recent cuvée, called Bouchalès-Merlot to reflect the blend, made every year since 2014.

This is vinified in cement vats and then aged in 400-litre, neutral barrels to ensure no oak impact, and made with no added sulpur. And the price for all that? So far, €60 from the Château.

‘We’re interested in exploring whether these old grape varieties might be useful in the 21st century fight against climate change,’ Fabienne Mallier of La Vieille Chapelle told me.

‘We already know that intensive production is damaging soils and vines, and it’s worth questioning whether grafting is adding to the increase in vine disease.’

Last but not least on this list, there is Château Cazebonne in Graves, not far from Liber Pater, which has been owned since 2016 by Jean-Baptiste Duquesne. He works with respected biodynamic winemaker David Poutays.

They have plans here to add up to 25 forgotten varieties, including Mancin, Pardotte, Castets, Sauvignonasse, Penouille and Bouchalès, to release under the name ‘Cépage d’Antan’. The first plantings began in 2018.

These are surely sensible questions, surely worth looking at before planting ‘new’ varieties that have never been seen in Bordeaux but are currently in discussion for Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur.

It’s heartening to see that the spirit of innovation in Bordeaux is alive and well.

And if Loïc Pasquet and Liber Pater has convinced even one or two winemakers that there is a future in this, I say congratulations.

See also: What will the new Bordeaux grape varieties mean?

Only 550 bottles of Liber Pater’s 2015 vintage were produced and just 240 set for release in September this year – priced to ‘show the real and old taste of Bordeaux’, according to the estate.

Speaking exclusively to Decanter.com, Liber Pater’s owner and winemaker, Loïc Pasquet, said that no price can truly pay justice to Bordeaux’s 150-year history but that his mission was ‘trying to maintain our ancestors’ practises and keep the original taste of Bordeaux intact’.

Pasquet acquired the estate, based in the Landiras commune of Graves, in 2005 and has set about reviving rare grape varieties, including Coulant and Castets, and using amphorae to make wine in a pre-phylloxera style. He believes that this highlights the ‘exclusivity’ of Bordeaux.

He has also planted at higher-than-usual vine densities of 20,000 vines per hectare compared to an average of 10,000 across the region today.

How Liber Pater 2015 was made

Liber Pater’s 2015 vintage is made entirely from ungrafted vines and comprises a mixture of rare grape varieties once commonly grown in Bordeaux including; Petite Vidure, Tarnay, Castets and St-Macaire, alongside the better known Petit Verdot and Malbec.

The cuvée was vinified in grey, clay amphorae of 250 and 400 litres, with a two-month maceration period followed by three years ageing.

Pasquet says the 2015 has sensations ‘rarely found in wines from Bordeaux due to the change in the taste post-phylloxera’.

He said it was ‘a pure wine with honesty, finesse and elegance, like the old taste of Bordeaux pre-phylloxera. It has a delicate nose with floral aromas and hints of crunchy black forest fruits, with silky tannins and long fine finish.’

‘Protecting’ Bordeaux heritage

When questioned on the appetite in the market for a Bordeaux wine at such prices, Pasquet said, ‘Wine aficionados and collectors want to appreciate the original fine wine of Bordeaux. It’s a unique experience. I’m doing what needs to be done to protect our heritage.’

He added: ‘I’m doing my very best to produce amazing wines and working very hard in the vineyard on a daily basis, but I don’t have any doubt that everyone is doing their best.

‘I’m a strong believer that Liber Pater wines will always be exclusive. The use of ungrafted vines is exclusive, 20,000 vine per hectare is exclusive, indigenous grape varieties is exclusive and amphorae are exclusive.’ Other wineries around the world use amphorae, notably in Georgia, but they are rare in Bordeaux.

The 2015 will be labelled as a Vin de France, unlike previous vintages that were labelled as AOC Graves, owing to the use of grape varieties not authorised by Bordeaux’s official guidelines.

World’s most expensive wine

The wine, which is being sold in six-bottle cases, has been on offer to the estate’s mailing list for the last six months on a strict allocation basis, priced at €30,000 a bottle (/£26,600/US$33,420).

That makes it six times more expensive than the estate’s 2011 vintage, which is around €4,500 per bottle.

The 2015 vintage is the estate’s sixth release since Pasquet took charge, alongside the 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010 and 2011.

There will be no 2016 or 2017 due to frost and replanting, but a 2018 vintage will be offered in 2021.

Speaking about the 2018 vintage, Pasquet said it’s ‘going to be a fantastic year and we are very excited for what we have been tasting so far, so watch the space.’

Decanter’s Jane Anson will visit Liber Pater in the coming weeks to taste its wines. Look out for her full report on Decanter.com.

Petit Verdot is a supporting actor in many top Bordeaux red blends on the Left Bank and, even in small quantities, can make a big difference to the finished wine, according to its proponents.

It’s rare to see a single varietal Petit Verdot wine, but this tough, thick-skinned grape known for producing richly concentrated, tannic red wine is not necessarily to be dismissed.

Key Petit Verdot characteristics:

• Small, thick-skinned berries capable of yielding deeply coloured wines
• Late ripening
• High in tannins
• Black fruits dominate on the palate, often with aromas of violet
• Most strongly associated with the Médoc in Bordeaux red blends

Petit Verdot is one of the classic red varieties able to constitute a ‘Bordeaux blend‘, alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Carmenère.

Fans of even the top Bordeaux classified wines will find that Petit Verdot commonly shows up in the blend, even if in relatively limited amounts.

Even at one or two percent of the final blend, Petit Verdot offers something important, according to the CEO of second growth estate Château Montrose, Hervé Berland.

‘Whenever possible I always use Petit Verdot, because it adds additional spiciness,’ Berland told a masterclass audience at this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter held at London’s Landmark hotel.

‘It is the pepper on the steak. Without the pepper, it is not the same steak. Even with half a percent you can notice the difference, it’s obvious.’

Petit Verdot is often late to the harvest party and enjoys a growing season that offers plenty of time for ripening in the autumn. In this way, it has more in common with Cabernet Sauvignon than the earlier ripening Merlot.

This is one of the features that helped Petit Verdot to shine in the Bordeaux 2016 vintage, said Decanter contributing editor Jane Anson in her recent in-bottle report on those wines.

‘You increasingly see it as the ‘third grape of choice’ in the Médoc over Cabernet Franc,’ said Anson.

Petit Verdot can also be found in parts of Australia, California’s Napa Valley, South Africa’s Stellenbosch and also South America – reflecting the popularity of Bordeaux grapes around the world.

There is currently little sign of Petit Verdot ‘doing a Malbec’, but some producers have had success with single varietal wines and the grape’s proponents argue that it deserves more than a mere supporting role.

Patricio Tapia, the expert reviewer and Decanter World Wine Awards judge, recently included Domingo Molina’s Petit Verdot 2015 in his round-up of red wines to watch in Argentina’s mountainous Calchaquí Valley.

High acidity and fierce tannins were present, as one might expect, but the wine also offered ‘a pleasing and sweet finish that’s filled with black fruits’, Tapia said.

In Western Australia’s Margaret River, Peter Forrestal also praised a ‘groundbreaking’ blend from Cullen that consisted of 51% Petit Verdot and 49% Malbec. It has ‘beguiling blackberry pastille flavours’, said Forrestal in his note, which formed part of an article on new wave Australian wines.

Find more wine questions answered at our ‘ask Decanter’ homepage

See the latest articles published for Premium subscribers

Anson: What to look for in Bordeaux 2016

The key wine trends ahead of en primeur...

Jane Anson looks at what's new and highlights some things to look out for during Bordeaux 2016 en primeur season, including yields and how much of the harvest is considered good enough for 'first wines'.

Okay, so this might be a little bit of background research for me before starting tasting through the Bordeaux 2016 en primeur wines, but there is plenty of interesting information to bear in mind ahead of tasting the new vintage. And as ever the detail and background clues are essential to forming an accurate idea of what is hype and what should be taken seriously.

Yields

Big. According to the CIVB figures, Margaux, Pauillac, St-Estèphe, St-Emilion Grand Cru and Pomerol have all seen their highest yields since 2006, and Pessac Léognan its second highest.

Percentage First Wines

Always a good indication of how successful a vintage is. Château Palmer is at 65% ‘first wine’ for 2016 blend, the highest ever. Château Lagrange is at 50% first wine, which is again its highest since the Suntory group became owners in 1983 (they say ‘until now the percentage of Fiefs de Lagrange has always been higher, but in 2016 many plots planted in 1985 have reached maturity, which together with the exceptional quality of the vintage and the regime of intra-plot selection that we began a few years ago, means we can increase the amount of First Wine’).

Generally speaking, though, although there is more wine this year, as a percentage things are not that different from 2015 or 2014, both relatively good vintages also. Clearly first wine percentages are way up from 2013 – Smith Haut Lafitte, as an example, is at between 40 and 50% first wine in 2016, compared to 30% in 2013.

Oh, and for those of us who were missing it, Petit Cheval is back for the 2016 vintage.

Petit Verdot

Some old cellar hands have never seen such concentration in this grape

I keep hearing how good the Petit Verdot is in 2016, and further proof arrived this week when Château Belle-Vue in AOC Médoc announced that it is producing a 100% Petit Verdot wine for the first time. They have a high proportion of Petit Verdot normally across their three properties, with 10% in Gironville, 20% in Belle-Vue and a full 50% in Bolaire, but this new cuvée is made from old vines planted in 1936, 1940 and 1950, and winemaker Vincent Bache Gabrielsen has aged this cuvee in oak barrels from Hungary and Austria rather than the more usual French. Consultant Antoine Medeville confirmed this, saying that the concentration in Petit Verdot was exceptional and that he had spoken with some old cellar hands who said they never had such concentration in this grape.

Expect properties with high proportions of Petit Verdot in their vines (so La Lagune, Boyd-Cantenac, Leoville-Poyferré, Kirwan, Marquis d’Alesme and Marquis de Terme to name a few) to be feeling happy.

Of the First Growths, in case you were wondering, Margaux has the highest percentage of Petit Verdot.

Whole bunch pressing: It is gathering weight

I spoke about this last year and it is gathering weight (if you’ll excuse the pun), especially because hot years can benefit from the structure and acidity added by this method of vinification. Château Carmes Haut-Brion is still a big proponent, but add to the list Château Rouget in Pomerol, who this year has used 1/3 whole bunch in its vinification.

Over at Smith Haut Lafitte, where technical director Fabien Teitgen has experimented with the technique for the past few years, they have used 25% stems in the vinification for 2016, compared to 20% in 2015.

‘This year we set aside every stem that was fully red and ripe so were confident in using a slightly larger amount during the vinification. The vintage overall has plenty of opulence so the stems were useful to give balance and freshness,’ Teitgen said.

Ex UGCs

Numbers of estates stepping away from the official UGC tastings is growing again this year. New up for 2016 is Château Marquis d’Alesme in Margaux (attention, price-rise-watchers, the cynical side of me thinks one invariably leads to the other). Léoville Poyferré in St-Julien also confirmed that it is holding its own tastings this year.

Also out of UGC en primeur tastings are: La Conseillante, Figeac, Haut-Bailly, Issan, Pontet Canet, Léoville Las Cases, Petrus, Le Pin, Vieux Chateau Certan, L’Eglise Clinet, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Angélus, Pavie, Mouton, Lafite, Haut Brion, La Mission, Latour, Margaux, Calon Segur, Pontet Canet, Montrose, Cos d’Estournel, Ducru Beaucaillou, Trottevielle, Batailley, Nenin.

I’m bound to be missing a few, but wow it’s getting crowded out there.

New Consultancies

Hubert de Boüard has four new Bordeaux estates for the 2016 vintage to add to his 80 clients worldwide, so you can look out for any stylistic changes. These include Château Tour des Termes in St-Estèphe, Château Plain-Point in Fronsac, Château de Sours in Entre deux Mers (both Chinese owned and the latter by Alibaba founder Jack Ma), Château Auguste in Entre deux Mers (just bought by Tom Sullivan of Château Gaby, Château Moya and du Parc).

Axel Marchal – Denis Dubourdieu’s successor at the ISVV – has got his first consultancy at Château Annereau at Lalande de Pomerol, which is owned by Dominique and Benjamin Hessel and also just notched up 10 years in organic farming.

Green Bordeaux

This subject is getting hotter and hotter. As of the 2016 vintage, there are a few things to report. First of all, this was the first vintage of Château La Lagune as certified organic. Château Ferrière has been certified organic since 2015 and biodynamic since 2016. Château Fonplegade is beginning the conversion to biodynamics as of this year, after being certified organic in 2013. Haut Bergey also certified in conversion to certified organic since 2015 and in conversation biodynamic now.

And non-added-sulphur wines get another addition this year from Château Sigalas Rabaud in Sauternes, where Laure de Lambert Compeyrot has launched the No 5 de Sigalas Rabaud, a lightly sweet (around 60g/l of residual sugar) with just a touch of CO2 (think Muscadet-sur-lie not Champagne) and no added sulphur. Just 3,000 bottles this year, but potentially a good way for Sauternes to connect with the aperitif crowd.

Which Terroirs?

Obviously we are not going to know this until after the tastings. But while it’s easy to say that 2016 was a great year, we shouldn’t forget that there was a lot of rain and then a lot of drought. It means some terroirs will have done better than others. Thierry Valette at Clos Puy Arnaud thinks that fresh terroirs that could retain water in the drought will have been favoured – so clay (he expect some very good petits chateaux in Entre deux Mers) or limestone (calcaire à Asteries). Expect good results in St-Julien, St-Estèphe, Barsac, St-Emilion, Castillon, Fronsac, Francs.

Particularly hot draining soils (so sand and some gravels) and young vines will have suffered more.

Hubert de Boüard said he had never in his life as a winemaker known such a long, dry summer but suggests, ‘Young vines are difficult on any soils but older vines have resisted well across the board’. Both de Boüard and Medeville, from tasting their client chateaux across the region, believe it will resemble 2010 more than 2009 or 2005.

Decanter is working on a separate analysis of the current state of the market for Bordeaux wines.

Jane Anson will be Decanter’s sole taster of Bordeaux 2016 en primeur wines.

More Jane Anson columns: 

Bordeaux 2016 harvest begins after year of two halves

But it's a waiting game for many following late flowering

Bordeaux 2016 reds: Dry skies mean waiting game

Hopes are rising for Bordeaux's red harvest...

Anson: Bordeaux 2016 harvest report – how the vintage looks

Jane Anson on how Bordeaux 2016 is shaping up...

Anson: Cabernet vs Merlot – The Champions League of wine grapes

Cabernet has the legs to win, according to some...

Anson: What now for Bordeaux and UK merchants in 2017?

Jane Anson analyses the numbers...

Jane Anson to be Decanter’s sole Bordeaux en primeur taster

Jane Anson is Decanter's lead reviewer of Bordeaux...

Napa Valley's Mount Veeder AVA is to get a new arrival in 2016 in the shape of Château Pontet-Canet owner, the Tesseron family, which is bringing its biodynamic principles to California's spiritual home of Petit Verdot.

Pontet-Canet arrives in Mount Veeder AVA

The Tesserons of Pontet-Canet have agreed to buy Villa Sorriso, owned by the late actor Robin Williams. It’s an estate with 259 hectares of land – albeit with only 7.3 hectares of vines – and a 20,000 square metre house that includes an implausible 15 bathrooms to just nine bedrooms.

In making the purchase, the Pontet-Canet owners are following in the footsteps of several other Bordeaux landed wine gentry by entering the New World via California.

But, they are the first to enter the steep hillsides of the Mayacamas mountains that largely separate the west side of Napa Valley with Sonoma; they are home to the Mount Veeder American Viticultural Area, where vineyards can be planted at angles of up to 30 degrees.

Mount Veeder AVA at a glance

Data source: Mount Veeder Appellation Council

Wine production goes back to 1864

Although it only gained AVA status in 1993, Mount Veeder has been producing wine since at least 1864, according to records published by the Mt Veeder Appellation Council.

It is also known as the spiritual home of Petit Verdot in California. Local cuttings of this classic Bordeaux variety were shared with other Napa Valley growers in the 1970s and 1980s.

Cabernet Sauvignon dominates

It is known for its Bordeaux varietals, with Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for nearly two thirds of the total planted vineyard area of 400 hectares.

Much further back comes Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet France and Petit Verdot, but Mount Veeder is also something of a wine world United Nations, with 17 grape varieties known to be planted – including Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Riesling, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

‘Dripping with terroir’

There were only 22 member wineries of the Mount Veeder AVA at the last count, but the Tesserons will instantly have some well-known neighbours – and that’s before one hits the Napa Valley floor.

Charles Banks, the former co-owner of Screaming Eagle, has co-owned Mayacamas Vineyards in Mount Veeder since 2013, having purchased the estate with his wife and retail entrepreneur Jay Schottenstein. It is around 700m above sea level.

‘Mayacamas is dripping with terroir and authenticity,’ said Banks’ winemaker, Sashi Moorman.

In a Decanter panel tasting of California Cabernet 2011, Trinchero’s Cloud’s Nest wine from Mt Veeder scored 95 points in what was generally considered a difficult vintage for California Cabernet as a whole.

• SEE ALSO: Decanter interview with Charles Banks