For all the attention lavished on Barolo and Barbaresco, the noble Nebbiolo grape gets very little of its own airtime. What is Nebbiolo when it isn’t either of these?

In the greater Langhe area – which also includes Roero – the answer is two confusingly overlapping denominations of Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba.

Without going into the minutiae of the specific regulations that distinguish the two, together these two DOCs provide producers with an outlet for non-DOCG interpretations.

Michaela’s pick of the 2022 and 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba below

For Nebbiolo lovers, they offer a treasure trove of diverse expressions that are typically less expensive and more immediately drinkable.

Given less stringent ageing requirements, these Nebbiolos are typically released sooner than producers’ DOCG bottlings of the same vintage.

As such, current releases hail from 2022 and 2023. Despite being marked by drought and heat, both years managed to yield wines with remarkable freshness and vibrancy.

A passing resemblance

Vintages aside, style is greatly impacted by estate philosophy. Most winemakers are adamant that they aren’t trying to produce a ‘baby Barolo’.

Nevertheless, some do bear a greater resemblance to DOCG wines than others – particularly those made from declassified Barolo or Barbaresco grapes and with longer ageing in wood.

Of these, Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Rinaldi’s savoury 2022s are worth seeking out. They also represent greater accessibility – both in terms of drinking and price – within the context of their respective ranges. Gian Luca Colombo’s Meretto is another must-try if you can find it.

Departing from this traditional approach, Lalù favours maturation in a combination of cement and wood to reduce the impact of the latter. The 2023 impresses for its brightness of fruit and sophisticated texture.

Equally joyful, Cascina Penna Currado’s 100% whole-berry fermented Bricco Lago spends just a few months in large cask.

Others examples see no wood at all. As Valter Fissore at Elvio Cogno states: ‘It is supposed to be a friendly wine for drinking chilled in the summer.’

He purchased a vineyard outside the DOCG zone specifically for Langhe Nebbiolo and the 2023 Montegrilli is a deliciously fruity and crisp Nebbiolo. Azelia’s 2022 is a little bit richer but still in the same vein, and both boast excellent value.

One of my favourite examples of ‘naked’ Nebbiolo is Rivetto’s amphora-aged Vigna Lirano.

A special mention must be made of the Roero region, where predominantly sandy soil lends itself to a lighter, more elegant rendering of Nebbiolo. Mauro Molino’s 2023 is a lovely value-driven version.

Ratcheting it up a few notches, Bruno Giacosa and Sandrone’s bottlings from the Valmaggiore cru were two of my top picks of the entire report.

Michaela’s 25 top Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba to try:

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The 2021 Barolo vintage has arrived, and it’s making waves. Tastings reveal a vintage of striking character, ripe fruit, and formidable structure, hinting at impressive longevity. But some wines miss the mark, highlighting the vintage’s nuanced complexity.

Certain communes shine, while others deliver mixed results. And while the 2021 vintage offers charismatic, ageable Barolos, high prices for the most in-demand bottles can be a challenge.

Below, we’ve pinpointed 10 outstanding bottlings that deliver remarkable character without the premium price tag. 

Michaela Morris’ 10 top Barolo 2021 value picks below

2021 is a charismatic and ageable vintage for Barolo. Yet while the top wines are highly sought after with soaring prices, there is still value to be found.

Serralunga d’Alba has the highest number of village-level bottlings in the region, and is therefore a particularly good source of wines with a good quality:value ratio.

Outstanding wines can be found throughout its numerous MGAs, with Cerretta a virtual treasure trove: Azelia and Ettore Germano’s bottlings are just two gems there.

The township also features the region’s largest number of village bottlings, identified on the label as ‘Comune di Serralunga d’Alba’. Quality and philosophies vary but in 2021, these provide a great source for value as exemplified by Palladino, Mauro Veglio and Fontanafredda.

Overall, 2021 is absolutely an excellent vintage. While it may not reach the exquisite level of refinement as 2016, it is undeniably worth buying.

Furthermore, as prices for the region’s top estates soar, it is a good year to seek out under-the-radar producers.

Below, I have picked out 10 of the best value bottlings of Barolo 2021. Enjoy!

Read Michaela’s full report on Barolo 2021

Barolo 2021: Top value picks

Vietti, Barolo: While not actually the least expensive Barolo, what it delivers for the money is exceptional.

Azelia, Barolo: A finely woven tapestry of the Scavino family’s holdings in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga.

Castello di Verduno, Barolo: A flagbearer for the village of Verduno; as accessible in price as it is in drinkability.

GD Vajra, Albe, Barolo: When ‘young vines’ means three decades in the ground… This is much more than just a straightforward ‘entry’ Barolo.

Massolino, Barolo: A perennial over-achiever that sets the bar for the rest of the range.

Palladino, Barolo Serralunga d’Alba: One of the most consistent village bottlings that is so satisfyingly Serralunga.

Fontanafredda, Barolo Serralunga d’Alba: An affordable, evocative and widely available snapshot of the township.

Bruna Grimaldi, Camilla, Barolo: Camilla doesn’t aspire to anything beyond short to mid-term pleasures but delivers these with absolute charm.

Icollirossi, Barolo Monforte d’Alba: Showing more focus and polish than in the past, making it a worthwhile buy.

Mauro Molino, Barolo: Despite a pinch from Monforte, this is so elegantly La Morra-esque.

Top 10 Barolo 2021 value picks

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• Barbaresco 2022: The hot vintage paradox & pick of the 2020 Riservas

The 2022 Barbaresco vintage presents a paradox: a hot, dry growing season yielding wines that defy expectations, often showing surprising freshness and purity. However, quality is inconsistent, with some wines exhibiting leanness and higher-than-usual volatile acidity.

This report explores the challenges faced by producers which led to earlier-than-average harvests and lower yields. While some vineyards thrived, showcasing the resilience of Nebbiolo and the skill of the agronomists, others struggled.

Discover which communes and vineyards excelled, and find out which respected producer declassified their entire Barbaresco production.

Alongside the 2022s, the report also examines the 2020 Riserva releases, highlighting their graciousness and early accessibility. Uncover the secrets of these contrasting vintages and gain insight into the nuanced character of Barbaresco in a challenging climate.

Barbaresco 2022 vintage rating: 3.5/5

Prolonged and extreme drought with above average temperatures led to an early harvest. Quality is uneven but the successes are truly worthwhile, offering remarkable freshness and near to mid-term drinking.

Notes and scores for the best Barbaresco 2022 & Riserva 2020 below

‘A paradox’ is how many Barbaresco producers describe the 2022 vintage. The paradox is that despite the hot and dry growing season, the wines do not necessarily show as a hot vintage. They are neither exaggerated in alcohol nor overripe or stewy.

Some do demonstrate a candied fruit quality, and tannins can someties have a slightly dry, dusty feel, but freshness is well preserved, and the best examples boast admirable purity, definition and depth. This is a great testament to Barbaresco’s winemakers and agronomists who worked tirelessly to manage and interpret an unprecedented vintage.

Yet quality is not consistent across all estates. Beyond overly lean, lacking examples, I also found a greater number of faulty wines than usual – particularly unpleasantly high VA (volatile acidity) and vinegary notes.

Overall, I consider 2022 a surprisingly good rather than outstanding vintage. Beyond heterogenous quality, there is less clear identity between MGA bottlings. ‘Hot vintages tend to flatten differences’, concurs Daniela Rocca at Albino Rocca.

For this reason, Andrea Sottimano – who produces MGA bottlings exclusively – declassified all the estate’s Barbaresco as Vino da Tavola and sold in bulk. ‘I don’t want to say that 2022 is a bad year. Rather, the wines lack terroir expression’, he declares.

Wine of the vintage

Giuseppe Cortese, Barbaresco Rabajà: The estate went against the grain in 2022, waiting until October 10th to harvest and making no compromises in the cellar. Demonstrating purity, tension and textural complexity, this rang out and took my top score in a blind tasting of almost 70 of its peers.

Barbaresco 2022: Highlights

In terms of highlights, the Barbaresco township was the most consistent. Within its western sector, great sites like Asili and Rabajà proved their mettle. Bruno Giacosa and Ca’ del Baio in the former, and Giuseppe Cortese in the latter are among my top picks.

On the village’s opposite flank, the Ronchi slope benefitted from its eastern orientation being spared the scorching afternoon sun. Look for Albino Rocca and David Fletcher’s bottlings.

In Treiso, Rizzi came out with a lovely set of wines from its fresh, well ventilated sites, while in Neive, Paitin’s Serraboella and Massolino’s Albesani are worth seeking out.

Given the atypical conditions, it is difficult to equate 2022 with other vintages. ‘Perhaps it resembles 2015, but without the ageing potential’, proposes Bruna Giacosa.

Indeed, most wines suggest a drinking window between five to 10 years, but top performers have the potential to reward in the cellar beyond this.

I recommend choosing wisely from trusted producers in 2022, but don’t miss out completely. To do so would deny joy and admiration for this truly unique and paradoxical vintage.

Barbaresco 2022: Vintage conditions

The drought that started in 2020 and continued through 2021 reached its apogee in 2022. Produttori del Barbaresco recorded 5cm of snow in early December 2021, after which there wasn’t any significant precipitation again until 25mm of rain fell on 3 May.

I visited shortly after, when spring rain typically makes it impossible to walk through the vineyards. The earth, however, was powder dry. Nor were the canopies their usual lush, vigorous selves. Instead, the vines had barely grown.

June through to August continued in the same arid vein, adding higher than average temperatures into the mix. Somehow, the vines managed not just to survive but adapt. ‘They looked like bonsai’, describes Gaia Gaja, adding that there was no sign of stress.

The vines responded to the lack of water by forming small clusters and not pushing suckers. ‘This meant less evapotranspiration, and therefore less need for water’, explains Franco Massolino.

The upside was an absence of fungal disease. Likewise, green harvesting was barely necessary. Instead, vineyard work focused on preserving moisture and managing what little canopy there was to shade the grapes from sunburn.

The first half of September saw a couple of scant showers, which were ‘just enough to help Nebbiolo’, according to Luisa Rocca at Bruno Rocca. They also served to bring temperatures down.

Harvest time

When I returned to the region in early October, harvest should have been in full swing. However, most estates had already finished picking with starting dates between one to two weeks earlier than average. One of the rare outliers, Giuseppe Cortese waited until 10 October, crediting a light rain prior for helping bring balance to the grapes.

While some growers maintain that achieving phenolic ripeness was not an issue, deciding when to harvest was a challenge for many. ‘We kept waiting for phenolic maturity, but it never happened’, recalls rising star Francesco Versio.

Yields were considerably lower than average, particularly in hotter, south-facing pockets. Despite healthy grapes with thick skins, winemakers exercised caution in the cellar.

According to Enrico Dellapiana at Rizzi, the dry, hot conditions resulted in low assimilable nitrogen levels, increasing the risk of stuck fermentations. He chose to inoculate ‘to encourage regular and rapid fermentation’.

Shorter macerations were also common. Versio reduced time on the skins to just 15-20 days, versus up to 45 days in 2021, and opted for pump-overs only. ‘There was a risk of making thin wines’, he admits.

Barbaresco 2022 value picks

Castello di Verduno, Barbaresco: This elegant package hails from some of Barbaresco’s most distinguished sites.

Luigi Oddero, Barbaresco: Immediate and ample pleasure for an excellent price.

Nada Giuseppe, Barbaresco Casot: A small family estate with deep roots in Casot and organic certification since 2017.

Poderi Colla, Barbaresco Roncaglie: A top name in the Langhe but stills flies under the radar.

Rizzi, Barbaresco Rizzi: The flagship bottling offers a very affordable introduction to an estate well worth discovering.

What Barbaresco 2022 to drink when

Green light: Drink over the next 5-7 years

Albino Rocca, Barbaresco Cottà: A soft and seductive version of this typically long-lived bottling.

Cascina Luisin, Barbaresco Rabajà-Bas: Lovely precision, best to enjoy while all is in focus.

Enrico Serafino, Barbaresco Bricco di Neive: Suave, yielding and upfront in its charms – perfect for drinking now.

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace, Barbaresco Marcarini: Full of plush fruit and zesty acidity for immediate gratification.

Francesco Versio Barbaresco: One of the denomination’s rising stars, Versio teases out prettiness and perfume in this challenging vintage.

Yellow light: Drink over the next 10+ years

Massolino, Barbaresco Albesani: Charming now but with ample density and length for the next 10 years.

Olek Bondonio, Barbaresco Roncagliette: All its vigour is imposing now but should serve to carry the wine over the next decade.

Rizzi, Barbaresco Pajorè: Boasts depth, buoyancy, elegance and admirable mid-term ageability.

Gaja, Sori San Lorenzo Barbaresco: One of the top wines of the vintage with exceptional definition and cellaring potential of at least 15 years.

Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Asili: Rising gloriously above the vintage’s challenges, this should sail effortlessly into 2040.

Barbaresco Riserva 2020

Apropos of pleasure, Barbaresco’s 2020 Riserva are being released at the same time. Among a small set of approximately 25 tasted, quality is high.

A very warm summer was balanced by showers and the coddled vines yielded ripe, supple, delightful annata wines. Correspondingly, the Riservas emphasise graciousness over power. The few that disappointed were robbed of vintage expression and harmony, perhaps from clumsy or overly long ageing in wood.

Among the category’s successes, Marchesi di Grésy’s Martinenga Gaiun and Bruno Giacosa’s Asili epitomise enduring finesse, while Produttori del Barbaresco’s Ovello and Paitin’s Serraboella Vecchie Vigne demonstrate a charming balance to their usual vigour.

While the vintage does not rate among the longest-lived, the wines should evolve gracefully over 10 to 15 years and will offer relatively early accessibility.

What Barbaresco Riserva 2020 to drink when

Green light: Drink over the next 10 years

Orlando Abrigo, Rongalio Barbaresco Riserva: A well-priced, characterful Riserva from a lesser-known estate.

Fratelli Giacosa, Vigna Gianmate’, Barbaresco Riserva Basarin: Offers plenty to chew on for those looking for a robust Riserva.

Vietti, Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà: Supple and immediately seductive with Barbaresco elegance and Riserva complexity.

Yellow light: Cellaring potential of 15+ years

Bruno Rocca, Barbaresco Rabajà: Very sophisticated and detailed, this will reveal its intricacies slowly.

Paitin, Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne, Barbaresco Serraboella: Its signature austerity is just sufficiently curbed without sacrificing longevity.

Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Ovello: Sturdy and robust but harmonious. Just give it a few years before opening.

Barbaresco & Riserva recommendations:

Wines are listed 2022 Barbarescos first, then 2020 Riservas

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The ‘classic’ 2019 Barolo vintage yielded exciting annata wines, and now the Riserva bottlings are under scrutiny with their release this year.

This report delves into the vintage’s unique profile, examining how its structure translates at the Riserva level. Discover which producers and vineyards have harnessed these characteristics to create wines of exceptional quality and longevity.

Explore the nuanced differences between annata and Riserva bottlings, and gain insight into the ageing potential of specific selections.

In this article:

• An assessment of the Barolo Riserva 2019 bottlings.
• The impact of vintage on Riserva expression.
• What Barolo Riserva 2019 to drink when
• Barolo Riserva 2019: 25 recommendations

Scroll down for Michaela’s pick of the 2019 Barolo Riservas

The widely touted 2019 Barolo vintage has been hailed as ‘classic’ by many. While the term is debatable, the annata (non-Riserva) wines excited me for their tension and tautness.

Complete without being excessive, they were refreshingly reasonable in alcohol levels and youthfully austere. I was therefore curious how this would manifest at the Riserva level.

A first look included approximately 40 examples, a few of these still in cask. Tasting them next to the 2021 Barolo, I was reminded that 2019 is slimmer and sinewy in frame, with less textural richness and density.

This does not make for less valid Riserva, however.

Standout sites

The best harness the firm, linear nature of the vintage, balancing fruit purity with refined tannins. In less successful examples, overtly tertiary aromas and flavours juxtaposed with an unyielding structure made me question their potential to age harmoniously.

While some estates take a ‘classic’ approach by blending their best plots from diverse subdistricts, single-MGA bottlings dominate. Above all, the great sites stood out, particularly in Prunotto’s Bussia, Oddero and Massolino’s Vignarionda, and Paolo Scavino’s Rocche dell’Annunziata.

‘Riserva should be a wine that has complexity, structure, tannins and a sophisticated bouquet with excellent potential for ageing,’ explaind Claudio Fenocchio, who makes a parcel selection from holdings in Bussia. His 2019 Riserva delivers on all these fronts.

Bold decisions

Never one to shy away from bold decisions, Roberto Conterno bottled his entire production from Francia and Arione exclusively as Riserva for the estate’s iconic Monfortino label. It epitomises the Riserva spirit.

It also comes at a lofty price, which is a significant factor when considering Riserva. As the annata bottlings already deliver a lot, I am focusing on just the most singular Riserva in 2019. To the ones mentioned above, I would add Elvio Cogno’s brilliantly poised and evocative Vigna Elena.

Most Riserva 2019 will benefit from more time, with an average drinking window of 15 years, though a few propose near-term accessibility. A select handful are built for a solid couple of decades.

What Barolo Riserva 2019 to drink when

Green light: Over the next 10 years

Fontanafredda, Barolo Riserva: This classic blend of historic vineyards is settling into its groove.

Mauro Veglio, Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata: Barrique ageing has already softened the tannins in this seductively styled Riserva.

Grimaldi Giacomo, Barolo Riserva Le Coste: The family’s elegant flagship bottling has recently been upgraded to Riserva.

Yellow light: No rush, enjoy over the next 15 years

Prunotto, Vigna Colonnello, Barolo Riserva Bussia: Personality wins over sheer force, but this is not lacking in backbone.

Brezza, Vigna Bricco, Barolo Sarmassa: Mature though not tertiary in nuances while steely tannins have yet to yield.

Elio Grasso, Rüncot, Barolo Riserva: Uber-concentrated and vigorous, this needs a ton of time and may even make it into the 20-year club.

The 20-year club

Oddero, Barolo Riserva Vignarionda: Properly austere without being severe, it is a masterful example of vintage and site.

Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino Barolo Riserva: Powerfully sculpted, this will require years to reveal its underlying finesse.

Elio Altare, Vigna Bricco, Barolo Cerretta: The innate balance is already palpable here, promising harmonious ageing.

Barolo Riserva 2019: Michaela’s 25 recommendations

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The 2021 Barolo vintage has arrived, and it’s making waves. Tastings reveal a vintage of striking character, ripe fruit, and formidable structure, hinting at impressive longevity. But some wines miss the mark, highlighting the vintage’s nuanced complexity.

Certain communes shine, while others deliver mixed results. Discover which regions and specific vineyards are producing the most compelling wines, and which to approach with caution. Is this a vintage for immediate enjoyment, or one to cellar for decades?

This comprehensive report delves into the details, from the unique weather patterns that shaped the vintage to the individual triumphs and challenges faced by producers. Which rising stars and established estates are crafting the most exciting Barolos?

And will 2021 truly stand the test of time, or is the hype premature? Uncover the secrets of this captivating vintage and navigate the world of 2021 Barolo with expert insights.

In this article:

• Barolo 2021 vintage rating
• Wine of the vintage
• Barolo 2021: Commune by commune
• Assessing Barolo 2021
• What Barolo 2021 to drink when
• The 2021 vintage in detail
• Barolo 2021: The top scorers
• Plus: 160 recommended wines with tasting notes & scores

Barolo 2021 vintage rating: 5/5

After a spring frost brought localised damage, the summer was hot and dry. Winter water reserves and cooler temperatures at night helped mitigate stress. A late harvest yielded charismatic yet well structured wines with great ageing potential.

Top-scoring Barolo 2021 wines are listed below

Introducing the 2021s

I had the pleasure of tasting over 300 Barolo 2021 and was impressed by the striking charisma of the vintage.

Many wines are already expressive, exuberant even. The fruit character is mature but not tertiary or overripe, and the wines are not developing too rapidly.

While aromas are animated, the structure says ‘wait’. Rather than the nervous energy or austerity of 2019, the 2021s are imposing and impactful.

It is a vintage of substance and volume with ample, ripe tannins. Alcohol is well absorbed and acidity admirably preserved.

There is a lot there; except when there isn’t. Some wines showed surprisingly lean, not always explained by a cooler site. Perhaps these were picked earlier or reflect vinification style.

At the other extreme, a few were heavy-handed. The least successful struggled with issues like volatile acidity (VA).

At a handful of estates, I tasted 2021 alongside 2020. It’s a shame that the former vintage will overshadow the latter, as in certain cases I preferred the harmonious, finer framed and vibrant 2020s.

Hopefully, Barolo aficionados can find room for both in their cellars.

Maria Teresa Mascarello is among those who make a parallel between the last three releases and their corresponding counterparts of 1999, 2000 and 2001.

‘However, climate and how the wines taste are two different things’, she emphasises.

I recall tasting the 2001s upon release and indeed recognise a similarly captivating yet commanding character in the 2021s. Will 2021 live up to that highly touted year?

Wine of the vintage

Sara Vezza, Persiera, Barolo Castelletto 2021: Singling out just one wine seemed impossible at first, but after considering what stood out in 2021, it had to be from Monforte d’Alba.

The Castelletto MGA impressed with numerous examples, and as I believe 2021 is a great vintage to seek out lesser-known estates, the choice soon became easy.

Sara Vezza’s Persiera charmed me in the blind tasting, and above all, it is much improved – less heavy and oak-laden, with a spring in its step. Brava!

Barolo 2021: Commune by commune

Made for Monforte d’Alba

Above all, the vintage seems made for Monforte d’Alba. Balanced in their volume, the wines from this township wear their bigger frames effortlessly. Unsurprisingly, many recommendations hail from the large but consistently outstanding Bussia MGA.

Besides top picks such as Aldo Conterno’s Colonnello and Giuseppe Rinaldi’s bottling, the lesser-known Cascina Amalia and Marrone are worth seeking out. The revered sites of Mosconi and Ginestra in Monforte also shine in 2021.

Prime examples are E Pira & Figli’s’ Mosconi and Domenico Clerico’s Ciabot Mentin Ginestra.

If I had to choose one up-and-coming MGA in 2021, it would be Monforte’s Castelletto, a cooler zone incorporating eastern exposures.

GB Burlotto’s newest bottling has garnered attention for the MGA, but 2021 offers many convincing efforts including those from Sara Vezza and Fortemasso.

The ‘runner up’ would be Le Coste di Monforte thanks to rising stars like Lalù and Diego Conterno.

Serralunga and La Morra

Serralunga d’Alba boasts a strong showing in 2021 beyond the iconic monopolies of Bruno Giacosa’s Falletto and Giacomo Conterno’s Francia. Outstanding wines can be found throughout its numerous MGAs, with Cerretta a virtual treasure trove: Azelia and Ettore Germano’s bottlings are just two gems there.

The township also features the region’s largest number of village bottlings, identified on the label as ‘Comune di Serralunga d’Alba’. Quality and philosophies vary but in 2021, these provide a great source for value as exemplified by Palladino, Mauro Veglio and Fontanafredda.

Barolo’s most prolific commune, La Morra is uneven in 2021 – as it often is – yet delivers more pleasant surprises than letdowns. Some (for example, Trediberri’s Rocche dell’Annunziata) are fully charged, while others (Dosio’s village bottling) capture the finesse typically associated with La Morra.

Long considered a ‘grand cru’, Brunate – which spills into the township of Barolo – is among the vintage’s triumphs. Oddero should be singled out, not just for its Brunate but for the estate’s stunning wines across the entire range.

La Morra also lays claim to one of the denomination’s most exciting newcomers, Carlo Revello.

Barolo to Verduno

As for the Barolo township, it is perhaps the most disappointing. In the heart of the region with many lower, well protected sites, it feels the warmth more acutely.

Cannubi yielded mixed results, with fantastic bottlings from Elio Altare and Brezza but others that did not live up to this hallowed hill’s reputation. Even the cool, higher altitude Bricco delle Viole showed more richness and substance than usual, though GD Vajra managed this site deftly.

In the relatively small Castiglione Falletto township, the alliance of elegance and power is magnificently embodied by Ceretto’s Bricco Rocche, Paolo Scavino’s Bric del Fiasc, and Giacomo Fenocchio’s Villero.

From Novello, an even smaller set of wines was centered around Ravera. I include this fresher zone in the vintage’s highlights. In addition to superstars Elvio Cogno and Vietti, solid efforts from Marengo Mauro and Abrigo Fratelli only serve to strengthen Ravera’s growing esteem.

Similarly, in Verduno, the best wines came from Monvigliero, with GB Burlotto’s bottling taking my top score of the vintage so far, however they – along with Castello di Verduno and Diego Morra – also propose lovely village-level Barolo.

Assessing Barolo 2021

One of the markers of an outstanding vintage is high quality throughout the region. The Albeisa Consorzio’s blind tastings organised by commune gave insight into how each township performed, whereas estate visits afforded side-by-side comparisons of diverse MGAs made by the same hand.

Another factor in assessing Barolo is ageability. In general, the 2021s are well endowed with stuffing and structure for cellaring, without the hard tannins of the past.

I believe most will reveal more of their intricacies with time: some will be at their best over the next seven to 10 years – others deserve longer – with the top wines suggesting a couple of decades.

The question remains whether the 2021 Barolo will have the longevity of classic vintages of the last century. I look forward to following 2021 as it evolves.

One of the beauties of this vintage is that the wines should satisfy throughout, allowing drinkers to open them according to personal preference.

Overall, 2021 is absolutely an excellent vintage. While it may not reach the exquisite level of refinement as 2016, it is undeniably worth buying.

Furthermore, as prices for the region’s top estates soar, it is a good year to seek out under-the-radar producers.

I would not dream of describing 2021 as a ‘classic vintage’, however, it does have the potential to be considered a modern benchmark in this warming climate.

What Barolo 2021 to drink when

Green light: Now and up to 10 years

Dosio, Barolo del Comune di La Morra: Improvements in the cellar plus cool heights give a bright and brisk Barolo.

Piazzo comm. Armando, Valente, Barolo: A vibrant, generous and supple offering from Novello with immediate appeal.

Luigi Einaudi, Ludo, Barolo: Young vines and a lightness of touch make for an elegantly approachable bottling.

Figli Luigi Oddero, Barolo: Tempting now but boasts sufficient backbone for a decade.

Diego Morra, Barolo Monvigliero: Ready to dole out Monvigliero’s charms over the next 10 years.

Yellow light: No rush, 15+ years

Diego Conterno, Barolo Le Coste di Monforte: A superb introduction to this cool MGA, but wait a couple of years before diving in.

Marcarini, Barolo La Serra: While this is already beautifully forthcoming, structure will carry it for the next 15 years.

ArnaldoRivera, Barolo Vignarionda: An excellent (and well priced) interpretation of this hallowed site including its ability to age.

Borgogno, Barolo Liste: This has come together nicely but I’d still give those tannins a bit more time.

Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo Villero: A stunning wine that will reward immensely with a bit of patience.

Cellaring required: 20+ years

Ceretto, Barolo Bricco Rocche: Lovely balletic precision with toned muscles for the long haul.

Domenico Clerico, Ciabot Mentin, Barolo Ginestra: Sturdy but promises to age more gracefully than past examples.

Aldo Conterno, Colonnello, Barolo Bussia: I won’t even think about touching this for the next 10 years.

Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Falletto: Innate refinement is already evident here but delaying gratification will vastly improve enjoyment.

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Francia: Simmering slowly and best left alone for now.

2021 vintage conditions

‘Nature pulled a rabbit out of the hat and let us make something decent in 2021,’ states Alan Manley at Margherita Otto. Better than decent, the 2021 vintage yielded a surfeit of great Barolo, though it wasn’t without challenges.

It began auspiciously with repeated snowfall in December and January – the last significant flurries that the Langhe has seen. Ski aficionados such as Fabio Alessandria and Gianluca Grasso remember this clearly because resorts were closed due to Covid restrictions.

Accompanying sub-zero temperatures enhanced the benefits. ‘The snow froze and remained for a couple weeks, allowing water to penetrate deep into the ground,’ explains Emanuele Jori at Bartolo Mascarello.

After falling to -6°C in mid-February, temperatures shot up. ‘On February 25th, it reached 21°C and March remained warm’, continues Jori. Nascent buds were therefore in full development when it dropped below freezing again between 7-8 April.

While Barolo’s hillside vineyards are reasonably safeguarded from frost, currents pushed the cold air upwards. ‘Damage reached almost 300 metres, which even old-timers had never seen’, says Alessandro Veglio at Mauro Veglio.

Localised rather than widespread, frost nonetheless hit certain producers considerably hard. Brovia calculates 50% loss of Garblèt Sue’ in the Altenasso MGA, while Bartolo Mascarello reports damage in prime parcels of Cannubi and Rocche dell’Annunziata.

At the Giuseppe Rinaldi estate, ‘we eventually had to replant 70% of our Brunate’, Marta Rinaldi explains, as the vines simply didn’t recover.

Frost to drought

After a cooler May which delayed flowering and slowed vine growth, summer was hot and arid. July saw occasional sprinkles but barely a drop fell in August. Heat was a greater concern than water stress thanks to reserves built up in the winter.

‘The challenge was keeping the vines in balance’, says Nicolas Oddero at Trediberri. Reprieve came in mid-September, when modest showers brought temperatures down, particularly at night.

Harvest began in the last week of September, although according to Alessandro Masnaghetti of Enogea, who collects data from almost 200 estates, the average start date was 7 October – many producers chose to wait until after the forecasted showers of 4 October.

Azelia’s Lorenzo Scavino describes the harvest as calm. ‘We could pick in the rhythm and order we wanted.’

The result was small, healthy grapes rich in polyphenols. ‘You could bounce the bunches’, recalls Erik Revello at Carlo Revello, who credits significant diurnal temperature excursions with giving elasticity to the skins.

The quality and structure of the berries was maximised by those producers who favour long macerations.

Several winemakers noted slower fermentations. Giuseppe Vaira at GD Vajra attributes this to low soil nitrogen associated with the dry summer.

‘For some, this is bad news, but we like long fermentations,’ he declares.

Alessandro Veglio admits he was concerned about a potential increase in volatile acidity. ‘Thankfully, it just gave the wines extra richness.’

Barolo 2021: The top scorers

View all 160 recommended Barolo 2021 wines from the report

Updated 26/3/2025: 21 additional tasting notes added

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There is an attractive blue butterfly that is known to lay its eggs in the violets of Serralunga in Barolo, in northwest Italy. Until a decade or so ago, however, as relayed to me by Isidoro Vajra, who tends the vines on his family’s Piedmont estate, Polyommatus celina’s range was generally confined to southern Spain, Portugal, Sicily, Sardinia and some other Mediterranean islands.

It’s just one of the many ways in which the climate crisis in the Langhe region can be illustrated. In what was a very warm year in terms of overall heat levels, the 2020 season can be compared to exceptionally warm years in the last couple of decades.

In his vintage report on his website, the Langhe region’s celebrated cartographer, Alessandro Masnaghetti, says that, ‘the data related to thermal sums [a measure of the accumulation of heat energy over a period of time]… in 2020 closely approached those of very hot years, such as 2003 and 2017’.

But the overall character of the 2020 Barolos is very different to what one might expect from a hot vintage. And this was down to two notable reasons: the lack of water stress across the season for the vines; and the absence of heat spikes.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

Tannin preservation

Heat spikes are now one of the major threats for winemakers, because of their tendency to oxidise the tannins, and the preservation of tannins has become one of the newest challenges in viticulture today. However, the aromas in the 2020s are well defined and the tannins ripe in the best examples.

‘In 2020, the rain occurred mainly at night, which was positive for the ripening of the vines,’ states Andrea Delpiano, winemaker at Giovanni Rosso in Serralunga.

But ripe tannins in a warm year requires a particular approach in the winery. ‘Compared to 2019, we used gentler extractions in 2020,’ explains Federica Boffa, now at the helm of Pio Cesare in Alba alongside his cousin.

Take the example of Maria Teresa Mascarello’s Barolo 2020. The wine underwent a long maceration on the skins, with the cap [the grape skins and solids in the fermentation vessel] submerged in the liquid for 55 days. By comparison, the 2019 vintage macerated for 30 days but without a submerged cap. At GB Burlotto in Verduno, the estate’s Barolo Monvigliero spent 33 months ageing in large oak barrels – a sign of the vintage’s quality, according to fifth-generation winemaker Fabio Alessandria.

Then again, some producers, such as fifth-generation Lorenzo Scavino at Azelia, based in Garbelletto, reduced the amount of barrel ageing in 2020, to better show off the purity of the fruit.

Testing conditions

Quality across the appellation, however, is more patchy than in 2019 or 2021. This is due to heavy rainfall on 2-3 October, which also led to hail in areas. As a result, the rain separated those who picked earlier – maybe too early? – from those who picked later.

Prunotto’s winemaker Gianluca Torrengo reports that ‘while in Barolo there were 90-100mm of rain, only 40mm fell in Barbaresco’, and furthermore, ‘in an area ranging from Cannubi [Barolo commune] to Fontanafredda [4km to its northeast], there was also hail’. Alessandria at GB Burlotto states: ‘We didn’t produce our Barolo Acclivi in this vintage, since we suffered intense hail between Verduno and La Morra [a little north of Barolo commune].’

Differences within the region were marked as well by the presence of downy mildew in the spring, which prevented perfect ripening of the tannins of the affected grapes. ‘Apart from the first four months of the year, in 2020 there was never a lack of water and indeed there were some problems with humidity, as evidenced by the widespread attacks of downy mildew,’ writes Masnaghetti.

Forward style

There isn’t one commune in particular that stands out from the others for quality. Monforte and Serralunga continue to display great consistency, though it could be argued that the wines from La Morra exhibit tannins that will prove a challenge to their immediate drinkability. Nor was the warm 2020 vintage easy for south-facing sites such as Cannubi.

The 2020 Barolos are generous and full, with more flesh on the bones even than the 2019s, but they perhaps have a shorter than average ageing window due to lower acidity and a related rise in pH. Some samples have shown a higher incidence of brettanomyces this year – a problem that, until a few years ago, was not of much concern (‘brett’ is the yeast infection that induces earthy barnyard or ‘cheesy’ aromas in mostly red wines – higher pH levels demand higher doses of sulphur dioxide to prevent its spread).

A new trilogy?

For third-generation Roberto Conterno of the Giacomo Conterno estate at Monforte d’Alba, the most recent trio of vintages – 2019, 2020 and 2021 – draws a strong analogy with 1999, 2000 and 2001. The 1999 and 2019 are both classic and austere; the 2000 and 2020 are warm and ready; while the 2001 and 2021 are of great quality, with 2021 potentially even surpassing 2001.

We’ll discover more about the 2021s next year when the wines are released, but in the meantime, the ‘butterfly Barolo’ of 2020 is a delight. In the glass, the 2020s reveal a substantial difference in colour compared to the 2018 Barolo Riservas – also released this year – with more concentration and darker hues in the former, allowing for the two fewer years of ageing.

‘With warmer vintages, even the colour of the lees has changed; nowadays, it’s darker, more vivid,’ observes Giacomo Conterno of Poderi Aldo Conterno, 2km north of Monforte d’Alba. ‘Today, more sugars are fermenting, opening up a new aromatic profile for Nebbiolo, to be exploited, not necessarily feared,’ the producer concludes.

See notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

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Michaela Morris is an international wine writer, contributor, judge and educator. She is one of the first certified Italian wine experts through Vinitaly International Academy 2015, co-created the curriculum for VIA’s Italian Wine Maestro course and teaches about Italian wines across Canada and abroad.

Morris always had an interest in wine but, as she explained to Decanter, she never considered a career in the industry. That is – until a linguistics course at university led her to Burgundy.

Today, with over 20 years experience in the wine industry, Morris has worked as a fine wine importer in Canada, run Bordeaux en primeur campaigns for a private retailer and launched her own company, offering cellar management and wine tastings.

Even after all her achievements, she commented, ‘there is always something else to learn… It has become almost cliché to say that the more you learn, the more you realise you don’t know, but it’s true.’

This year at Decanter World Wine Awards, Morris will join Stephen Brook as joint Regional Chair for Piedmont. Ahead of judging this May – and with entries closing soon on 15th March – we get to know more about Morris, including her proudest achievements, recommended regions to watch and advice for producers.

Tell us about yourself briefly. How did you get into the wine industry? 

I was studying linguistics at university and during an exchange year in Toulouse, I had to write a dissertation on anything to do with French culture or civilisation. I already had an interest in wine as I was working in fine dining restaurants to pay for my schooling, so I honed in on the tradition and terroir of Burgundy.

I spent a couple of weeks in the region doing research when it just happened to be their biennial wine show – Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne. I was at a tasting at Clos de Vougeot when I had that lightbulb moment. Until then, I had never considered that a career in wine even existed.

When I returned to Canada, I got a job at a private wine boutique and ended up running their Bordeaux Futures campaign. I then went on to work for a premium wine import company that specialized in Italian wine and started my own company offering private and public wine tastings as well as cellar management.

What’s a typical day like for you?

I can’t say there is a typical day for me, except when I have my head down and am writing a big report. On those days, I just try to remember to come up for air and go for a run, do yoga or garden.

Otherwise, on any given day, I might be touring a wine region, visiting producers at their estates, attending a wine trade show, trying upwards of 100 wines at a regional or new release tasting, judging a wine competition, moderating a seminar or leading a masterclass. While my homebase is Vancouver, I spend at least three months of the year in Italy as well as a few weeks in the UK where I have family.

What is your proudest achievement so far?

I’ve counted various achievements throughout my career – helping build a local import company to a national entity, running my own business for 13 years, passing the WSET Diploma, earning the top mark in Vinitaly International’s inaugural year.

I was also honestly thrilled to start writing for Decanter. I read the magazine religiously when I first got into the wine industry – and still do. Now I am focused on my next goal of writing my first book.

What is the most valuable lesson you have learned in the industry so far?

There is always something else to learn. Just for starters – in Italy. It could be an obscure grape, a little-known region, a new producer…

It has become almost cliché to say that the more you learn, the more you realise you don’t know, but it’s true. Which means constantly staying engaged and being curious.

Which wine producing regions or grape varieties would you encourage people to explore?

There is so much to discover in Piedmont beyond the celebrated wines of Barolo and Barbaresco.

Langhe Nebbiolo can offer such great value for money, and off-the-beaten-track regions of Carema, Lessona, Bramaterra and Gattinara demonstrate different and thrilling expressions of this noble grape. Don’t overlook Valtellina in neighbouring Lombardy as well.

Back in Piedmont, I am also particularly captivated by the Pelaverga Piccolo, Grignolino and Timorasso grape varieties.

What do you find most inspiring in the wine world right now?

The young generation who is shaping the future. In a very traditional region like Piedmont, they recognise how lucky they are to inherit such a legacy and are very respectful about the work their parents did. They continue to move the region forward.

I am also inspired by all the innovation and adaptation with respect to climate change. It is easy to get discouraged but when I see the resilience and composure of producers facing challenges and focusing on solutions, it gives me hope.

What do you look forward to most as the new joint Regional Chair for Piedmont?

I am looking forward to working with my joint Regional Chair counterpart, Stephen Brook, who has a vast knowledge of the wines of Piedmont.

I am equally eager to judge with colleagues who share a similar passion for the region and its wines. And of course, I am excited for the cornucopia of grapes and styles. I am not sure there is any Italian region quite as varied as Piedmont – with still wines as well as traditional and tank method sparklers; dry versus sweet; aromatic to discreet; red, white and pink; light to full-bodied; youthful to complex and aged.

Do you have advice for DWWA entrants who don’t win a medal?

Don’t be discouraged! Take a look at wines in the same category that did win medals and, if possible, find a few to taste, preferably blind, to benchmark yours against these.

Also read the Co-Chairs’ comments about the wines that won Best in Show. There is a lot of insight here into what sets a wine apart.

What is an interesting fact that people might not know about wines from Piedmont?

While Nebbiolo gets all the glory, Barbera is Piedmont’s most planted grape. It’s also what the local producers love to drink. And after tasting Nebbiolo all day, it is the juicy and food friendly bottle of Barbera that is typically the first to be finished at the dinner table.

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Either way you look at it, 2018 was not really a Riserva vintage in Piedmont’s Barbaresco DOCG. There was the spring frost, the hail on 17 July, then a good deal of rain on top of the warm climate. These challenges beset producers desperate for a large harvest after the drought-like 2017 vintage.

The hot weather allied to the rainfall should have been perfect for higher yields in 2018, but instead it resulted in dilute wines in the worst examples, and a light, graceful Barbaresco for more immediate drinking in the best.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 recommended Barbaresco Riserva 2018 wines

Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco confirmed that the region’s acclaimed cooperative would not produce a Riserva in 2018.

Similar news ensued from Gaia Gaja, who said that her Gaja winery would not produce its top selection Sorì range (San Lorenzo, Tildin and Costa Russi) in this vintage.

On the one hand, the reputation of 2018 is perhaps too low. Walter Lodali confesses: ‘the wines are hard to sell compared to 2019.’

From September, with the arrival of the round 2020 wines on the market, I would imagine they will become even harder to sell. This is a shame, because although the wines might not be particularly ageworthy, there are nevertheless a lot of delicious, typical Barbaresco that are expressive now and easy to drink.

On the other hand, the consensus about the vintage proves how difficult it may have been to produce a Riserva.

Looking closer at the growing season, it was defined by a longer than usual winter with abundant rainfall that replenished groundwater resources depleted by climatic trends leading up to 2017.

A single heatwave occurred at the end of April which led to an early bud break, then rains and below average temperatures continued across April, May and June.

Halfway through July, temperatures rose significantly but a bad hailstorm hit the region on Sunday 17 July. September was sunny, with two hot weeks that allowed the grapes to ripen faster. Harvest concluded by the first week of October, a date that often marks its beginning.

Not a sound spring, not a regular veraison, not a long growing season. In my opinion, the 2018 vintage lacks the favourable elements needed to imagine a Riserva. There were a handful of good examples, but not much more than that due to the lack of volume, concentration and complexity.

Barbaresco Riserva 2018 recommendations

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Clear skies, crystal-clear rivers and clean air: the 2020 vintage started while the world was in lockdown. Going to work in the vineyards was one of the few permissible activities at the time (lucky vignaioli!).

The most genuine producers confess to having taken extraordinarily good care of their vines during the Covid pandemic like never before. No fairs, no visiting importers, no tastings.

Barbaresco wines from 2020 emerged as graceful with unexpected, sweet tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2020 wines

Barbaresco 2020 vintage rating: 4/5

‘Given its more approachable style, it is not likely to be a favourite vintage among classic Barbaresco lovers… But in the best examples there is volume, lushness and balance’

Having tasted more than 70 wines during Nebbiolo Prima in Alba at the end of January 2023, it appears that 2020 is a very round vintage. Was this down to increased care in the vines, or a more favourable climate? A legitimate question.

‘However favourable the 2020 vintage may turn out to be – and as time goes on, we’ll seek to assess that – it seems likely that 20 years from now the vintage will be remembered not so much for the quality of the wines but rather for the Covid-19 epidemic,’ wrote Alessandro Masnaghetti, aka Mapman, in his detailed vintage report.

The growing season

2020 doesn’t have a single, identifiable detail that characterises the vintage. Rainfall was abundant and quite spread out over the season, which was generally humid.

The temperatures were high as well, certainly warm enough to consider the vintage as being hot. While it didn’t come close to the record heat in 2003, it was similar to 2017 ‘with significant peaks of heat between the end of July and early August,’ explains Masnaghetti.

The maturity of the grapes was impressive and the tannins almost always very refined. Given its more approachable style, it is not likely to be a favourite vintage among classic Barbaresco lovers, thus why it deserves a rating of four out of five.

But in my opinion, this ready-to-drink style should be seen in a positive light. In the best examples there is volume, lushness and balance. It’s difficult to presume a shorter window of ageability considering the balance and the quality of the tannins.

Coming soon: Barbaresco Riserva 2018

As Angelo Gaja often reminds us, in modern vintages there is increased quality and maturity of the tannins at the expense of lower acidity.

All in all, 2020 was a very good vintage, particularly considering the dry 2017, the dilute 2018 and an unassuming 2019 in Barbaresco (compared to Barolo) which was affected by a hailstorm.

The numbers say so too. Barbaresco production in 2020 increased from 4,915,000 bottles in 2019 to 5,128,000 and is currently experiencing solid growth, according to Consorzio Albeisa’s technical manager, Emanuele Coralia.

This is not only an increase due to the vintage, but a trend for the appellation which has been expanding by 7ha every year since 2015.

See the results of the recent Barbaresco panel tasting

This new dimension of Barbaresco should be followed with attention from a commercial point of view. In fact, while 80% of the production of Barolo is exported, Barbaresco is exported at just 60% (the main markets being USA 19%, Scandinavia 10%, Germany 8.4% and UK 6.7%).

‘The lower volumes exported are due to the smaller dimension of the appellation and of the estates,’ commented Coralia. So, 2020 could be the perfect vintage for the region to explore new markets with these extremely well-crafted Barbaresco wines.

Tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2020 wines:

The following wines all scores 93 points or above

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Austerity is not all the same: Nebbiolo is more austere than Pinot Noir and Sangiovese; Barolo is more austere than Barbaresco; the stern texture of Monforte and Serralunga is different from that of the village of Barolo, which itself is different from La Morra.

Austerity aside, Barolo Riserva are also less ready to drink, mostly due to their traditionally higher extraction. However, if there is a specific justification for the more austere character of a wine, it can be found in the vintage – and 2017 was that kind of vintage.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2017 Riserva wines

View all 26 Barolo 2017 Riserva from Aldo’s vintage report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

The 2017 vintage

The season was hot and dry. Maria Teresa Mascarello defined it as ‘the harvest of the dust.’ In the Langhe, where sandstone is prevalent among the vine’s roots, and the roads at the bottom of Serralunga and Monforte often become slippery after the first rainfall due to the cascading sand, evidence of the drought was clear in 2017.

Sugar ripeness occurred long before tannin ripeness. In instances like this, the natural austerity of a Barolo Riserva is met with the added trials and tribulations of the vintage. In the worst cases, producers tried (unsuccessfully) to hide unripe tannins behind the Riserva label, but thankfully there were very few examples of this. The best, in comparison, resulted in great wines full of complexity and refinement, the structure tamed thanks to precise manual work, yield management, and gentle handling in the winery.

The Nebbiolo Rosè biotype, replanted in the 1990s by Valter Fissore from Elvio Cogno and considered the lightest Nebbiolo in terms of tannins, performed deliciously well in 2017. In the middle of the spectrum, scrolling through my tasting notes, there is a very good level of quality due to concentration, volume and depth – but most of the time this is at the expense of a dry finish, which proves the elevated austerity of the 2017s.

2017 vs 2018

These Barolo Riservas are, in any case, more attractive than the 2018s. Not by chance, in Barbaresco there were many producers – even the notable Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative – who preferred to skip the Riserva in 2018. If 2017’s defect was excessively dry tannins, the limit of 2018 was a tendency to be dilute. If I were asked to bet on one of the two vintages, I would put my money on 2017. It has the potential to improve with age, as time softens the best tannins and integrates them with the rich fruit, while it would be tough to enhance what 2018 already lacks.

The samples of 2017 Riserva available at Nebbiolo Prima, the press preview held in Alba by Consorzio Albeisa, were fewer than the previous year. Was this due to the quality of the vintage? Partially. But it also must be said that as interest in the MGAs builds, the Riserva category is no longer the undeniably higher quality Barolo.

Extended ageing

There are, however, quite a few producers who are working on a sort of ‘grand Riserva’ programme, releasing their Riserva after extended ageing of 10+ years. But the scarce availability of these Riservas in the market today is, in my view, a sign that those who decided to produce 2017 with longer ageing were convinced of its quality in the long run.

Top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2017 wines

The wines below all scored 96 points or above 

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Barolo 2019 vintage rating: 5/5

Good distribution of rainfall throughout the long growing season, with a warm spring, a scorching end to July which led to sunburnt grapes in some vineyards, and a hailstorm in September which mostly affected vines in La Morra. October was drier, with mild days and cool nights. Comparisons to the very structural 2013 vintage have been made by more than one producer.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring Barolo 2019 wines

The 2019 vintage

The adjective ‘classic’ can only partly be intended, as it is in Bordeaux, to indicate wines that are less concentrated. Here in Barolo, ‘classic’ refers to traditional, old-fashioned or even old-school styles – a ‘classic’ vintage is more austere than supple.

All the producers agree on the point that 2019 is a classic vintage. Even if it lacks a bit of concentration, it deserves five stars. But let’s go in order. Compared to the most recent (yet to be bottled) 2021 and 2022 vintages, which were affected by drought, 2019 started with good water reserves for the vines thanks to plenty of rain and snow through the winter, crucial for storing water in the steep, weathered, poor soils of the Barolo hills.

‘The sum of the rainfall in 2021 and 2022 together doesn’t reach the levels of 2019 by itself,’ Maria Teresa Mascarello announced to me. Conversely, the annual average rainfall of 654.5mm recorded for 2019 (according to the analytical data collected by respected ‘mapman’ Alessandro Masnaghetti on his platform barolomga360.it) was lower than that for the rainy, warm 2018 vintage’s 923.7mm.

And while 2018 was considered a bit ‘diluted’, 2019 is not, thanks to a better distribution of rainfall and a drier last part of the season. In terms of the spring, the two vintages were similar: pressure from diseases was quite high at flowering and fruit-set, and most of the 2019 wines that show rustic tannins can be attributed to this.

In 2019, warmth set in early, and the end of July was marked by terrible heat: ‘We measured 46-47°C in the vineyards,’ said Andrea Delpiano, Giovanni Rosso’s winemaker in Serralunga.

Temperatures peaking over 40 degrees were ‘followed by rain,’ as Fabio Alessandria from GB Burlotto specified. ‘We had some sunburn on the grapes in Bussia,’ admitted Marta Rinaldi from the Giuseppe Rinaldi estate which this year will release its first Bussia MGA. Sunburn was one of the main threats in 2019, as well as a hailstorm in September which mostly affected La Morra. ‘We did not pick Rocchette Vino due to the hail,’ confirmed Francesco Bianco, winemaker at Gianfranco Bovio. Apart from that, 2019 didn’t suffer spring frost as in 2021, and registered a great conclusion with mild days and cool nights which extended the season.

Harvest in 2019 finished around 20 October: the epitome of classic! Nebbiolo grapes with longer growing seasons are, in my experience, the best in terms of complexity and ability to age. The wines of this vintage have slightly more acidity, more structure, a bit of sternness: trademark Barolo.

See all 139 wines from Aldo’s Barolo 2019 report

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

Classic

What, in my personal view, counts even more to further define ‘classic’ and my preference for this vintage, is that 2019 also has lower alcohol: 13.5-14%, which results in 0.5% to 1% below the average. Also, the lower the alcohol the better the management of volatile acidity, which was kept to a minimum in this vintage.

For GB Burlotto’s Fabio Alessandria, ‘the 2019 shows analytical data like 2013 in terms of tannins, alcohol and acidity, which is five to ten percent higher than usual. It produces a vertical wine, one that is straight, not powerful nor broad. My wines seem to have less shoulder and more energy [in 2019].

‘In the end, we have two to three great vintages for each decade, just like in the past. Most likely the 2019 is a less approachable vintage for those who are not too involved in Barolo.’

This last sentence captures my curiosity for these wines and their potential for evolution. Even Roberto Conterno from Giacomo Conterno compares 2019 – which is ‘more structured’ – with the ‘super-structured 2013.’ In comparison, he said, ‘the 2020 vintage is more exuberant and 2021 is somewhere in the middle of the two’.

The first tastings of Barbaresco, now releasing the 2020 vintage, have shown very sweet tannins and more round and approachable wines without being simple or obvious. They suggest another promising year for Barolo – but less upscale compared to 2019. At the same time, the samples of 2021 I tasted from barrel have shown great concentration and power. Will it be better?

I prefer to be pragmatic with such complex 2019s in the glass. To dive in even further, we could look to the analytical data collected by ‘mapman’ Alessandro Masnaghetti on his platform, barolomga360.it. In terms of rainfall, the 2019 vintage was slightly lower but close to 2016 and 2013 (25.76 inches). At the same time, monthly heat summation (per temperature > 10°C) was close to vintages like 2016 or 2006 but higher compared to 2013.

Which Barolo 2019 should you seek out?

The wines that do not lack in concentration – such as the great Brunate from Rinaldi, the astonishing Monfortino from Giacomo Conterno, the complex Bartolo Mascarello, and the super-elegant Monvigliero from GB Burlotto – deserve attention in the 2019 vintage.

Interestingly, three of these four top examples are blends, which well describes this vintage: blending the grapes from different MGAs has produced wines with more volume, refinement and complexity at this early stage. The single-MGA wines will need more time to develop their complexity, although they already demonstrate signature characteristics.

Southern exposures are back at the top in 2019, with sleek examples such as Brezza’s Sarmassa in the commune of Barolo. Cerretta in Serralunga d’Alba, with its multiple exposures, is increasingly establishing itself as one of the best and most consistent MGAs.

Gianfranco Bovio was among a handful of pleasant surprises among the lesser-known producers, adjusting their winemaking style to shorten the duration of pumping over, switching from barrique to botti grandi, and incorporating a splash of press wine a là Bordeaux.

Excluding La Morra – which in my opinion is too large to be easily defined, and moreover suffered from hail in 2019 – both Monforte and Serralunga performed better than the commune of Barolo in terms of quality.

Barolo 2019: Top-scoring wines

The following 25 wines all scored 96 points or above

View the score table with all 165 Barolo 2019 & Barolo 2017 Riservas from Aldo’s report

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Alto Piemonte is the collective term for several small DOCs in northern Piedmont, situated almost 100 miles northeast of Alba. It includes Boca, Bramaterra, Faro, Gattinara, Ghemme, Lessona and Sizzano. Through the middle of this cluster of vineyards runs the Sesia river.

The major threat in this area today is hail. On 30 June 2021, ‘the hail in some vineyards did not even spare the grass,’ stated Lorella Zoppis Antoniolo, co-owner of Antoniolo winery in Gattinara. More and more producers are setting nets to protect against hail, even on small estates such as Tenuta Guardasola in Boca.

That said, Alto Piemonte is benefitting from a generally warmer climate which increases concentration and with it, the complexity of these great wines. Nebbiolo in Alto Piemonte unveils another layer due to the soils, which are assertively volcanic. In Bramaterra, for example, the wines are characteristically smoky, although this can also be found in wines from Gattinara, Boca and Lessona.

See also: Aldo’s latest-release Langhe Nebbiolo tasting notes

‘The increase in concentration is evident in vintages such as 2016. ‘This is a year with a great perspective,’ commented Leonardo Valenti, professor of viticulture and winemaking at the University of Milan and consultant at Torraccia del Piantavigna. ‘Wines from 2016 will give their best over the next year, now they have just been bottled. That vintage was not an ordinary harvest. It seemed to be delayed but instead finished great and recovered right in time. The last few weeks of ripening were perfect, which is why the wines are so great.’

The 2017 vintage clearly demonstrates how climate change is increasing the quality of wines from Alto Piemonte. While the vintage was too dry in the Langhe, the quantity of rainfall in Alto Piemonte turned it into something promising. There are, admittedly, dry tannins that appear in many of the wines, but nevertheless wines from the likes of Antoniolo, Travaglini and Cantina del Signore are all showing extremely well.

The warmer climate is very helpful for ripening Prunent, a biotype of Nebbiolo from the cool Ossola valley at the northermost part of Piedmont where the Garrone brothers are working with skill and passion, producing wines of great elegance. It’s also helpful for supporting varieties often blended with Nebbiolo – mostly in Boca and Bramaterra – such as Vespolina, Croatina and Uva Rara, improving the assertive peppery character of the former and the tannin quality of the two latter varieties. As in the Langhe, 2017 will be a vintage with a decidedly shorter drinking window, while 2018 is leaner and 2019 seems promising if not great; but it’s too raw right now to evaluate.

The key appellations of Alto Piemonte

Wines from Gattinara DOCG most of the time have the ability to match power with elegance.

Boca DOC is produced using Nebbiolo with the addition of Vespolina which brings a distinct spiciness to it.

Croatina – which is not allowed in Boca – is often a partner in Bramaterra DOC, with its pronounced fruit concentration, while Uva Rara is always good for softening wines.

While Ghemme DOCG, Fara DOC and Sizzano DOC are based on mostly sandy soils, Gattinara, Boca and part of Bramaterra are often referred to as ‘vini delle rocce’, or ‘wines from stone’, because of the minerality derived from the underlying volcanic or porfidic soils.

Aldo’s top Nebbiolo picks from Alto Piemonte

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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Defined as ‘the harvest of the dust’, 2017 was remembered as an impressively dry vintage.

‘Harvesting took place around 20 days early in Monferrato, with very low yields, and around ten days early in the Langhe, with below-average but satisfactory yields for Barolo and Langhe Nebbiolo, and a little poorer for Barbaresco’ reported winemaker Stefano Chiarlo.

Early picking and naturally lower yields due to the drought were among the main factors that made 2017 so challenging. The tannins are quite often a bit rustic and dry but most producers didn’t make the mistake of waiting for full phenolic ripeness.

‘In order to ensure elegance, freshness and avoid excessive alcohol content, we started harvesting ten days before the usual date [20-27 September]’ added Stefano Chiarlo. Indeed, the 2017s are in general quite fresh and enjoyable, rarely jammy or over-extracted.

The question is: does it make sense to produce a Riserva in such a year? The samples of Barbaresco Riserva 2017 presented at Nebbiolo Prima were few and far between – which starts to answer the question. For those producers who manage the best plots – old vines, proper canopy management, and more moderate east- or southeast-facing sites – the Riserva category deserves attention.

Some producers have tried to mask the angular tannins of the 2017 vintage under a veil of oak and the prestige of the ‘Riserva’ label, however the best wines show concentration and refinement – although they’re not for long ageing.

Aldo’s pick of Barbaresco Riserva 2017 wines:

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More elegant and less powerful in style, Barbaresco suffered much more in the lean 2018 vintage than Barolo. The hail and downy mildew, for those who were affected by it, further complicated things. In 2019, patchy hail was present again. Angelo Gaja, for instance, did not produce his estate’s top selections, Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildin. Although Angelo was not convinced, his sons persuaded him to blend the Sorì into the Barbaresco.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Barbaresco 2019 wines

Barbaresco 2019

The vines sailed through a long, warm growing season with no damage from frost or hail. Hot spells in June and July were followed by a near-perfect harvest. Concentrated, complex wines.

4/5

Extremes

‘The growing season was characterised by extremes,’ said Enrico Delmondo, representative for the Consorzio Albeisa during a presentation of the 2019 vintage at the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba.

‘2019 was weird. After a super-dry winter with just three episodes of rainfall in three months and temperatures excessively over average, April and May worked against the trend with cooler temperatures and abundant rainfall. The 15th of May fell to a record low of 0°C, which was exceptionally cold.’

In June, Barbaresco experience a heatwave for four days, peaking at over 40°C. This was repeated at the beginning of July. The heatwaves were, however, mitigated by the water reserves from the previous months.

September was dry, with high diurnal temperature variations between night and day. Some vineyards were affected by two storms which hit early in the month, in some localities including hail.

All in all, 2019 was an exceptionally challenging vintage – almost heroic. There are, however, several reasons to consider it fairly successful.

With the warm winter, Nebbiolo bud-burst occurred very early, around 5 March. The constant flux between warm and cool temperatures combined with a regular September extended the growing season to a total of 200 days, while the mid-May frost reduced yields by 5 to 10%.

According to Delmondo, the musts showed higher acidity compared to the 2018 vintage.

Although we are yet to taste the finished Barolo 2019s, it’s likely that the Barbaresco 2019s could end up being more concentrated thanks to the fact that Barbaresco is typically more exposed to Mediterranean winds. These were exceptionally strong in 2019 where, in Roero for example, vines were bent over. Meanwhile, Barolo, is sheltered by the La Morra and Monforte ridges. In combination with the high temperatures in 2019, these winds helped to concentrate the grapes by acting as a drying agent.

This concentration seems to be a breath of fresh air after the light 2018 vintage. Such vintages allow for a deeper look at the varied terroir profiles within Barbaresco: the elegance of MGAs such as Asili are complemented by more concentration, while cooler expressions such as Ovello – often too austere in the leaner vintages – shine with a refined structure for ageing.

Thus in the end, the wines show good acidity, an outstanding ripeness of tannins and overall complexity, expressing the minerality that is accredited to a longer growing season.

Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2019 recommendations:

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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Barolo is dominated by pricey bottles but there’s still relative value to be found.

The wines below all come in at under £50/€60/$70 retail which, although isn’t exactly pocket money, is still a great proposition for Nebbiolo from one of Italy’s premier denominations.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a selection of top value Barolo 2018 wines

In his 2018 vintage report, Aldo Fiordelli notes that ‘the Barolo 2018 vintage has produced some delicious, open-knit and approachable wines due to moderate acidity and ripe tannins, as well as good complexity displayed in the top examples. But mostly, it’s just very tasty!’

He does warn, however, that ‘village-level Barolo is of variable quality; many are excessively dilute.

The best wines show sweet tannins, concentration and a degree of elegance.’ This dilution, he explains, is the result of producers trying to make up for a shortfall in the drought-affected 2017 vintage by pushing yields further than perhaps they should have.

There are, of course, exceptions to this rule. Of Bera’s Barolo, he says: ‘Despite the brightness and the open-knit character, there is no lack of tension.’ And of Massolino’s Barolo, he says: ‘While at the village level in 2018 we seem to find more dilute wines, Massolino should be considered an exception because they produced just a village Barolo, a blend of all their MGAs, including Vigna Rionda.’

Aldo does, however, make the case that in general ‘Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba 2019 or 2020 could be better picks than the village-level Barolo 2018s’.

As a result, almost all of the value picks below are MGA-level Barolo – Piedmont’s version of the Burgundian cru system.

Top-value Barolo 2018

95 points

• Luigi Pira, Margheria, Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba) – £44 / $68

94 points

• Massolino, Barolo – £33 / $39
• Mauro Molino, Gallinotto, Barolo – £45 / $50
• Brezza Sarmassa, Barolo – £46 / $70

93 points

• Monchiero, Rocche di Castiglione, Barolo (Castiglione Falletto) £39
• Schiavenza, Cerretta, Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba) – £41 / $69
• Marco Marengo, Brunate Barolo – £46

92 points

• Bera, Barolo – £37
• Elvio Cogno, Cascina Nuova, Barolo (Novello) – £39 / $49
• Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Bussia, Barolo (Monforte d’Alba) – £46

90 points

• Dosio, Serradenari, Barolo (La Morra) – £38
• Parusso Perarmando, Barolo (Monforte d’Alba) £39 / $52
• Renato Ratti, Marcenasco, Barolo (La Morra) £45 / $45

Prices were accurate at the time of publishing.

Aldo’s best value Barolo 2018 picks

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The 2016 vintage is one of the best in Barolo, indeed since at least 2010 which is comparable in the exceptional quality produced in terms of both Barolo and Castiglione Falletto.

Many previous vintages have tended to favour a specific appellation or soil type; Tortonian soils versus Serravallian soils; cooler or warmer expositions and so on whereas the 2016 wines seem to have performed well across the whole region.

Scroll down to see the Barolo Riserva 2016 tasting notes and scores

Barolo 2016

2016 was an extraordinarily regular vintage. Earlier bud-burst coupled with a delay caused by a cooler spring and warmer August and September rendered the growing season extremely long. The sound weather during the harvest resulted in wines showing great concentration and restraint, an amazing ripeness of tannins, and tension suitable for the long haul.

‘One could not consider 2016 anything less than a great vintage,’ explained Alessandro Masnaghetti in his vintage report on barolomga360.it, ‘particularly considering such unanimous agreement. The wines show the classic traits of the best vintages of the past combined with a balance, completeness and depth that is truly rare. To my palate many of the wines are already approachable today, although I’m sure that not everyone will agree on this point.’

What is interesting to note is the vintage’s character, which is austere like great Barolo of the past – built for the long haul – but balanced due to the noble nature of the tannins.

The quality is so all-encompassing that it’s difficult to say which side of Barolo performed better.

In my opinion, however, it is the eastern side of Monforte and Serralunga which benefitted more from this tannic refinement, mostly in terms of short-term drinking – although I must admit my general preference for this side of Barolo!

On-going debate

When tasting these Barolo Riserva, most of the wines are clearly not ready to drink yet – even after the stipulated five years of cellar ageing, of which at least 18 months must be in oak.

What is happening in the Langhe is a two-sided debate: on one side, a shorter oak ageing requirement is desired; on the other side there is a tendency to allow the name ‘Riserva’ for special cuvées aged longer than the minimum guaranteed by the appellation.

Marco Parusso, Domenico Clerico with his ‘Per Cristina’, Luca Roagna and many others, for example, are releasing Barolo Riserva after 10 years.

Future

Looking ahead, the next great vintage after 2016 will likely be 2019, which looks very promising. The Riserva will not be released until 2025, however.

Aldo’s Barolo Riserva 2016 recommendations:

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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The Barolo 2018 vintage has produced some delicious, open-knit and approachable wines due to moderate acidity and ripe tannins, as well as good complexity displayed in the top examples. But mostly, it’s just very tasty!

Is it a great vintage? Probably not, but only because the ageing potential is supposedly shorter.

Barolo 2018

A warm, rainy vintage with a sub-zero February and a very wet May. Downy mildew and localised hail posed problems for some producers. Village-level Barolo is of variable quality; many are excessively dilute. The best wines show sweet tannins, concentration and a degree of elegance.

3/5

Barolo 2018 growing season

The 2018 vintage started with a debate about the buds. At the beginning of the season, they initially appeared to be dried, a supposed outcome of the parched 2017 vintage. Yet it was not clear if that was the reason, or whether it was a result of the winter frost. ‘We had an arctic descent in February with temperatures in the Langhe plunging to -7° to -8°C,’ says Edmondo Bonelli, Consorzio Albeisa producer association’s viticultural consultant. ‘In my opinion, the dried buds were a result of the frost.’

May was very rainy. ‘It was difficult to go in the vineyards,’ notes Valter Fissore at Elvio Cogno (Novello), and Fabio Alessandria at GB Burlotto (Verduno) adds: ‘We had 22 to 23 days of rainfall in May. July was warm, but it still rained.

‘Our vines,’ Alessandria continues, ‘have always had ample access to water, so they soaked up a lot of potassium. The tartaric acid decreased while the pH levels increased. The maturity and integration of the tannins were very good. When you’re dealing with an acidic and tannic grape such as Nebbiolo, these are factors that will generally help in the approachability of the wine. The 2018s are very tasty, but there is also a downside in them having less of an ability to age in the bottle.’

The warm character of the year – a rainy but not cool vintage – has been described by some producers as almost tropical. Several occurrences of Downy mildew were reported and Serralunga was also stricken by hail. Some of the top wines, such as Roberto Conterno’s Monfortino, were not produced.

See the top scorers from Aldo’s Barolo 2018 & Barolo Riserva 2016 reports

See all 109 Barolo 2018 wines tasted

Decent outcome

In the end, 2018 was quite consistent with vintages when harvest occurs around 4-5 October. This is just a week earlier than average in years when the timing is regarded as ideal, in the second week of the month.

‘We reintroduced submerged cap maceration. The grapes were delicious and the tannins well integrated,’ reports Maria Teresa Mascarello in Barolo. Bonelli compares the 2018 vintage with 2009, while for Mauro Veglio (La Morra) it appears like the very good 2004 vintage, which followed a dry and warm 2003.

All in all, 2018 was obviously not a top vintage, as several producers openly admit. Alessandria at GB Burlotto defines the 2018 vintage as more inviting to drink compared to 2017: ‘Perhaps the 2017 will be longer-lasting while the 2018 will be ready to drink in the next 10 years.’

In my opinion, yields were critical for success: some estates needed to recover production after the shortage of the drought-affected 2017, and this seems to be most evident with village-level 2018s, which are often excessively dilute.

In terms of village performance, La Morra and Barolo recovered well compared to 2017, while Monforte performed very impressively in both vintages. Serralunga suffered a bit more in 2018 compared to 2017.

And while this vintage is ultimately marked by the higher quality of Barolo at MGA-level, I agree with Maria Teresa Mascarello’s claims that Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba 2019 or 2020 could be better than the village-level Barolo 2018s.

Should we start to think of Barolo in a different way compared to the stern, traditional model of the past decades? Probably, yes – and this should not necessarily be interpreted as bad news.

Roberto Conterno is just one producer who is considering bottling his Barolos one year earlier in response to the effects of climate change.

Aldo’s top Barolo 2018 recommendations

Wines tasted in February 2022 in Alba at the annual Nebbiolo Prima event, the vintage preview organised by Consorzio Albeisa

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The greatest excitement around wines such as Langhe Nebbiolo is not only the drinkability compared to fellow territorial teammates like Barolo and Barbaresco, but also the bang for your buck.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top-rated Langhe Nebbiolo 2019 and 2018 wines

The eagerness to taste these wines as soon as one can is understandable, as it’s an opportunity for wine lovers to foresee the quality of their more noble Langhe counterparts in any given vintage, one or two years before Barolo and Barbaresco are released.

Langhe Nebbiolo is mostly a by-product of those two flagship wines: most of the time, a producer designates the grapes from younger and lesser-quality vines to the production of Langhe Nebbiolo.

In difficult vintages, such as those with extremes such as drought or too much rainfall, the differences are significant.

Old vines with deeper roots naturally produce more balanced grapes, regardless of climatic variation. However, in very good vintages young vines and less prominent vineyards are often capable of producing outstanding grapes too.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2019

This was the case in 2019 in the Langhe, a balanced vintage with a long growing season and a classic albeit slightly late harvest in mid-October, with no extremes.

A heavy hailstorm hit on 5 September, but was mostly concentrated to Serra dei Turchi and Bricco Manescotto in La Morra; Fontanafredda in Serralunga d’Alba; and in Grinzane Cavour. The average temperature was slightly higher than the 10-year average from 2006 to 2016.

‘It seems safe to say that 2019 was a good vintage, in a number of cases even very good or excellent, with substantial acidity and alcohol levels that are not extreme,’ comments cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti in his detailed report.

Tasting the first samples of Langhe Nebbiolo 2019 it would seem that the wines are extremely balanced, with a suppleness and concentration of fruit to counteract the firm structure of Nebbiolo and its nervous acidity. This balance is apparent amongst the good quality producers but widely depends on which village the grapes come from. Across the region, from Verduno to Serralunga, from La Morra to Monforte, several samples were just too austere.

I’m dazzled by the refinement of these Langhe Nebbiolo 2019 wines and I would bet on this vintage for Barolo and Barbaresco.

On the contrary, the damp and rainy 2018 vintage produced quite simple, sometimes raw Langhe Nebbiolo, lacking definition, concentration and – in the worst examples – length. They could be limpid and deliciously perfumed, yet no more than ready to drink now.

Langhe Nebbiolo vs Nebbiolo d’Alba

This report focuses on Langhe Nebbiolo but it’s worth discussing the differences between them and Nebbiolo d’Alba.

In theory, Nebbiolo d’Alba has better quality: Langhe is a territorial denomination, a category based on careful selection of grapes in the vineyard, including Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera.

A Nebbiolo vineyard that produces grapes destined for Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero and Nebbiolo d’Alba will often also produce grapes for Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.

Nebbiolo d’Alba, on the other hand, can be produced only with Nebbiolo grapes from specific villages in the Alba province, among which La Morra (partially), Grinzane Cavour, Novello, Verduno, Monforte and Diano d’Alba. This freedom excites producers for more than one reason one.

Premium producers can carry out severe selections for their Barolo and Barbaresco from top sites, putting significant amounts of decent, if not great, grapes into Langhe Nebbiolo.

At the same time, these relatively affordable Nebbiolos have become an easy way for a consumer to bring top Barolo and Barbaresco brands into their homes.

Today, prices for Langhe Nebbiolo are trending upwards, towards significantly high in some cases – but this reflects the product itself, which is soaring in quality. Thus, a lot of estates in the region are opting towards Langhe Nebbiolo in order to achieve a premiumisation of their Nebbiolo.

Top Langhe Nebbiolo 2019 and 2018

View all 23 Langhe Nebbiolo wines tasted

View all 23 Langhe Nebbiolo wines tasted

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Nebbiolo is properly considered one of the grape varieties with the longest growing season.

The 2016 vintage, according to the consorzio for Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe and Dogliani, ‘was certainly one of the longest-lasting vintages in recent years’.

It’s possible to see in this the complexity achieved by the Barbaresco Riserva 2016 wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Aldo’s top-rated Barbaresco Riserva 2016 wines

Though the Barolos from this vintage won’t be released for another year due to differing minimum ageing requirements, producers are now releasing their Barbaresco Riserva from the 2016 vintage.

The 2016 season

‘Signs of the vegetative cycle being so long first appeared at the beginning of the season, when the mild temperatures and low rainfall in January and early February confirmed the trend that we were already seeing during the first part of the winter,’ reported the consorzio.

Spring saw a considerable amount of rainfall. This phenological delay continued until the end of the summer, which began slowly but extended until the end of September. The harvest date in 2016 was back to classic, old fashioned timing.

What are the Barbaresco Riserva 2016 wines like to drink?

Alcohol levels are lower than 2015 and the balance shines from the vineyards to the wines.

Harvesting later than in the warmer years is – if possible – more crucial for Barbaresco than for Barolo, because it is generally picked before the latter, as was the case in 2016.

If there were a vintage to explore the various MGAs, 2016 is the one.

Martinenga, Asili and Rabajà are the crus to look out for.

If there’s a vintage to hold on to for ageing, 2016 is also the one: some wines are still not easy to drink but time will help them resolve.

Several producers consider 2016 pretty similar to 2013, but with less pulp over the bones.

For others the 2016s might appear too extracted. However, the balance and ripeness of the vintage coupled with the more graceful winemaking of the most up-to-date producers has given rise to some outstanding wines.

It’s without doubt a hailed, five-star year.

Aldo’s top-rated Barbaresco Riserva 2016 wines:

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The 2015 vintage

2015 was a warm yet good vintage.

According to Langhe Vini, the consorzio for Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe and Dogliani, ‘the climatic conditions recorded at the beginning of the summer laid the foundations for the ripening of the grapes about 10 days earlier than in the previous vintage, but in line with what we would call a “normal” year.

‘In terms of quantity, production was on average within the norm.’

Scroll down to see Aldo’s top-scoring Barolo Riserva 2015 wines

The insolation improved the colour-giving anthocyanins accumulated within the grapes.

In the finished wines, the quality of the tannins ensures elegant, long-lasting Riserva with good structure.

The 2015 vintage has been compared to 1999 by some commentators.

In my opinion, 2015 is without a doubt a good vintage – 4 out of 5 stars – with some outstanding wines, however, some of the wines are rather bold and lacking freshness.

Barolo trends

So, has Barolo Riserva gone out of fashion?

There is no doubt that the birth and development, since 2010, of the Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) – 181 specific subzones within the Barolo appellation – has overshadowed the prestigious Riserva category.

Of course, MGA and Riserva could move forward arm in arm.

The idea was suggested at the last Nebbiolo Prima preview, where 330 wines were tasted but only 31 of which were Barolo Riserva.

These particularly long-aged wines represent a niche production, but the selection presented at Prima does not illustrate the whole picture.

What can be said is that the 2015 vintage was a great opportunity to produce a top Barolo built to age.

Despite labels such as Monfortino, which is the guiding light for Riserva, I must admit that I would have expected a bit more quantity and quality from the 2015 Riserva.

In terms of quality, outstanding examples aren’t lacking, mainly from suitable MGAs such as Bricchi or Sorì.

In terms of quantity, a lot of producers are releasing still-older Riserva: Oddero’s Vignarionda 2014, Domenico Clerico’s PerCristina 2011, Parusso’s Oro 2000.

This is a long-time tradition in Barolo, ever-present and possibly reinvigorated by the birth of the MGA system.

‘Riserva,’ explained Fabio Alessandria at GB Burlotto, ‘is an old idea of ancient winemaking based on high alcohol and cellaring to achieve quality’.

Top Barolo Riserva 2015 wines:

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It will not be easy to bring wine lovers together to talk about the 2018 vintage in Barbaresco.

There were several objective challenges throughout the growing season, not without some extremes. But there is undoubtedly a certain appeal to these wines, which are less extracted than usual.

‘In the 1970s, Barbaresco shined for “less”: less concentration, less structure, less expensive,’ quips Angelo Gaja. ‘Today, things have changed,’ he concludes. Well, that’s not quite true in the 2018 vintage – a return to the “less” character in this cool, damp and fresh vintage.

It’s deserving of four stars but should be intended for short-term drinking rather than long cellaring.

Scroll down to see Aldo’s top-scoring Barbaresco 2018 wines

The 2018 vintage

The 2018 vintage started with a long winter with plentiful rainfall, restoring the soil’s water supply which had diminished due to the dry 2017 season.

Budbreak was regular, with none of the problems caused by late frosts. Between the end of May and the beginning of June there were numerous storms, bringing abundant rains that created some difficulties in the vineyards – the average precipitation level in 2018 was second only to the terrible 2002 vintage.

According to cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti’s report, ‘between 1 May and 13 June, there were 24 out of 44 days of rain’.

View all Barbaresco 2018 40 wines

The summer was regular but on 17 July there was a heavy hailstorm in Barbaresco. September was not easy, with temperatures rising up to 30°C with excessive humidity: ‘Problems were recorded associated with fungal diseases wherever it was not possible to intervene in time,’ the Consorzio del Barbaresco reported.

To thicken the plot, several producers admit that mistaken forecasts forced some of them to harvest in advance. However, after the warm and dry 2017 vintage, prospects were good.

The number of fertile buds was plentiful due to the reserves within the vines from the previous year. A similar example can be seen in the abundant yield of the 2004 vintage after the record heat of 2003.

In fact, the crop was not smaller: according to the consorzio, ‘green harvesting became necessary for nearly all varietals in order to curb production within the limits provided for various production regulations’. This opportunity to select the grapes saved the vintage. Nevertheless, some of the long macerations typically employed for Nebbiolo to extract noble tannins had to be shortened, as did oak ageing.

Should I buy any Barbaresco 2018 wines?

So, on the one hand we have clean and perfumed Barbaresco with plenty of fresh, if not tart, fruit character and softer extraction, resulting in wines that are poised right now: a gift for the current consumer trend which favours polished wines with complexity yet minimal austerity.

On the other hand, more traditionalist Barbaresco collectors will not fully appreciate this vintage’s lesser ability to age.

The 2018 Barbaresco vintage could also revive (and exacerbate) another debate: in difficult vintages such as this, is it better to blend grapes from different crus or to produce a single MGA?

‘We did not produce our Sorì [Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildin],’ commented Rossana Gaja. ‘It was a classic vintage, similar to 1991 or 1993,’ she continued.

The more structured MGAs such as Asili or Rabajà in Barbaresco, however, performed quite well.

If I must admit my preference, I would bet on these MGAs over time, but for now I’m drinking the blends.

Aldo’s top Barbaresco 2018 wines:

View all 40 wines

View all 40 Barbaresco 2018 wines

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If you’ve ever wondered what the best Italian wines are then take a look at our list below, drawn from our ever-growing database of wine reviews.

This list of some of the greatest wines tasted and reviewed recently by Decanter’s experts includes top names from well-known regions as well wines from some less well known – but equally worthy – areas.

Predictably Tuscany and Piedmont feature heavily with all four 100-point wines coming from Tuscany – three Brunellos followed by a world-beating SuperTuscan. A smattering of Barolo and Langhe wines fly the flag for Piedmont, while the Veneto is in the mix too thanks to a single-vineyard Amarone della Valpolicella from one of the region’s best-known producers.

In total there are three SuperTuscans here – wines with the simple IGT designation but they are far from simple wines. Due to the grape varieties used, the location of the vineyards and/or the processes used to make the wine they cannot be labelled as DOC or DOGC wines but are among the most sought after and revered wines from Tuscany.

It’s not all red though, there are four white wines featured, including a ‘bracing and expansive’ Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend from the Cantina Terlano co-operative in Alto Adige, a ‘textured and creamy’ no-added sulphites Vernaccia di San Gimignano and a ‘focused and mineral’ Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.

There’s even an ‘exquisite’ dessert wine – again from the Alto Adige, and again from a co-op – that’s made from late-harvest Gewürztraminer which has been aged for four years in a cellar 4,ooo metres below ground.

We have kept it limited to just one wine from each producer featured, and all wines below have scored 98 points and above.

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Barolo can be divided into two broad categories – those simply labeled Barolo and those bearing an additional geographical designation (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive, or MGA). Infinitely more romantic, ‘cru’ is commonly (though inaccurately) used interchangeably with MGA to indicate these smaller defined areas within the larger region.

Barolo’s MGAs have given value and order to its diverse land, with cru bottlings a vehicle to express that.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores from the Barolo MGA 2016 late releases

Sites like Prapò, Lazzarito and Parafada demonstrate the vigorous structure of Serralunga but each with a slightly different voice. Conversely, Rocchettevino and Gattera exhibit the finer frame and evocative perfume of La Morra, with the latter characterised by haunting truffle nuances. And Bricco Rocche is just one example of the alliance of power and finesse that Castiglione Falletto’s crus can achieve.

Differences between crus are crystal clear in 2016. ‘A great vintage is when every hill does its homework,’ concurs Giacomo Conterno at Aldo Conterno.

Despite no official quality hierarchy, Barolo’s finest crus are well-known. In his famous Carta del Barolo in 1976, Renato Ratti named those which he considered superior. Many, like Rocche di Castiglione, Cerequio and Brunate continue to be held in high regard. Across multiple producers and vintages, these sites consistently yield excellent wines.

The best MGAs

Nowadays, Vigna Rionda is one of Barolo’s most revered MGAs and often singled out for Riserva bottlings.

Bussia also enjoys renown, especially its Soprana and Sottana subzones, with fine examples coming from Aldo Conterno, Poderi Colla, Luigi Einaudi and Parusso in 2016.

Finally, based on producers’ interpretations, Monprivato, Falletto and Francia are also on Barolo’s MGA hit list.

Undoubtedly the region’s most legendary cru, Cannubi is somewhat contentious. Besides being enlarged beyond its historic zone, it is widely thought to be too warm in today’s climate. I admit to disappointments over the years, especially for the prices it often commands. However, in 2016, Francesco Rinaldi’s example displays the sheer grace of Cannubi’s storied reputation.

Conversely, crus once considered to be too cool to ripen Nebbiolo have been given a new lease of life, particulary Ravera and Monvigliero. As the warming trend continues, La Morra’s high altitude Serradenari MGA may be the next star.

Brand extensions

Since Barolo’s 181 MGAs were formally established in 2010, the number of cru bottlings has increased. In 2013 they represented about 25% of Barolo’s total production; last year this grew to almost 32%.

MGA Barolo offers a natural brand extension and the possibility to enter the market at a higher price, as most are more expensive than a producer’s classic Barolo.

While the average is two cru bottlings per producer, many offer more or are adding additional MGA bottlings to their portfolio. Azelia has just launched a new bottling from Cerretta, both Luigi Einaudi and Scarpa have a Monvigliero on the horizon and Francesco Rinaldi will release a Rocche dell’Annunziata starting with the 2018 vintage.

Beyond single crus, Barolo’s MGAs also cover its 11 townships (like Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra etc) which blend multiple sites from within the identified area. ‘I believe that in the future, commune-designated wines will occupy more space within the Barolo appellation,’ predicts Valter Fissore at Elvio Cogno.

By all indications, we have yet to see the full evolution of Barolo’s MGAs.

Top three Barolo MGA picks:

• Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubi, Barolo 2016: Demonstrates the elegance, complexity and ageing potential that clinched this site’s reputation.
• Poderi Colla, Bussia Dardi le Rose, Barolo 2016: Satisfying cru Barolo with a tremendous price/quality ratio.
• Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate, Barolo 2016: A brilliant expression of place while using the MGA regulations to best effect.

See tasting notes and scores for the Barolo MGA 2016 late releases

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Tasting Ceretto’s 2016s

Barolo’s lengthy ageing requirements – a minimum of 38 months – stipulate that the wines cannot be released until the fourth January following harvest. This means that the highly anticipated 2016 vintage was first previewed in January 2020.

At that early stage, some wines are not yet bottled and various producers hold off until annual trade fairs held in spring, or occassionally even longer, before a formal introduction. ‘We prefer to wait in order to propose expressive wines with a degree of harmony that make them representative of the vintage,’ says Federica Oberto at Ciabot Berton.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Barolo classico 2016 late releases

As wine tastings and travel had essentially ground to a halt by March last year, many wines were released without fanfare. The silver lining for Barolo producers is that the reputation of 2016 had customers clamouring regardless.

I returned to Barolo last autumn to round out my tastings, sampling a number of wines during a requisite two-week quarantine and at wineries following this.

I have divided these Barolo 2016 late releases tastings into two sections: those with an MGA on the label, and those without. Most of the latter are blends of different crus. You can find my report on the non-MGA Barolos below, and my report on those with MGA designations will follow shortly.

Barolo classico 2016

Despite the rise of single MGA, or ‘cru’ Barolo, the longstanding tradition in the region is to blend fruit from parcels across the territory. The district of La Morra has long been prized for elegance, while Serralunga d’Alba is well-known for lending structure, for example.

In reality, blending from various zones was a tool to manage the vagaries of vintages, especially in the last century when the cooler climate made it challenging for Nebbiolo to reach full ripeness in anywhere but the warmest spots. While achieving ripeness has been less difficult in the last couple of decades, hotter years present new challenges.

This is one of the reasons why Maria-Teresa Mascarello has upheld the tradition of blending. ‘It allows you in a difficult year, either because it is cold or hot, to have a wine that is better balanced and more consistent.’ One of the few producers who declines to bottle crus separately, she believes that the ‘best’ vineyards do not always give the best wine every year.

Alan Manley, who launched his Margherita Otto label with the 2015 vintage, has followed suit. ‘I want to show what these pieces of land in combination can achieve,’ he says, referring to the two hectares of disparate plots that he has managed to cobble together.

The concept is that the whole is better than the sum of its parts. Carlotta Rinaldi at Giuseppe Rinaldi acknowledges that they could make a separate Ravera bottling, ‘but we don’t feel it is harmonious on its own,’ she explains. So intead, the fruit goes into the estate’s superb Tre Tine blend.

Benefits of blending

There are other practical reasons for blending. Many producers only have tiny holdings in each vineyard – bottling each separately would result in tediously small quantities of many different wines.

Furthermore, not every Barolo vineyard is designated as a cru, nor are all MGAs of equal repute or strength of character to stand on their own. As such, producers often choose only the most prestigious crus – and/or those with sufficient production – to bottle separately.

Whatever holdings remain tend to be blended together. However, rather than just blending together any remaining fruit, it is often a well thought through process, as it’s in an estate’s best interest to keep the quality of all of its Baroli high.

Defining ‘classic’

The term classico or ‘classic’ has been unofficially adopted to refer to a Barolo without an MGA, especially to distinguish it from an estate’s cru Barolo. (This is not to be confused with the Classico which in other Italian regions legally defines the original production area.)

Classic is more appropriate than ‘basic’ or ‘normal’, as Barolo is neither of these. It also implies something traditional, which the practise of blending parcels is. However, many of these wines depart from tradition in that they are crafted to be more accessible than the typical Barolo of the past.

Like other producers, Fernando Burani, export manager at Mauro Molino, sees the classic Barolo as an ambassador for the estate. Besides having the personality of a Barolo, ‘it should also be pleasant, velvety and elegant so that it can be consumed even when it is young,’ he says.

Semantics aside, there is an enormous range of prices and stylistic interpretations of wines that are labelled without an MGA.

Some aren’t even from multiple sites at all, they simply refrain from declaring the MGA for various reasons. Furthermore, Baroli that do blend several MGAs are not necessarily inferior to their cru counterparts – some are among the greatest wines of Barolo.

Finally, many represent tremendous value for money, especially in a vintage such as 2016.

Top three Barolo classico 2016 picks:

• Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo 2016: A co-fermentation of multiple plots, this ageworthy Barolo is a classic in the truest sense.
• Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo 2016: Beautifully captures the elegant fragrant side of Barolo without sacrificing structure. An overachiever.
• Azelia, Barolo 2016: In the world of Barolo, this offers exceptional value for money.

See the tasting notes and scores for Barolo classico 2016 late releases:

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Barolo 2016 & Riserva 2014: Report and 100 wines tasted

Tasting the single-vineyard wines of Pio Cesare

Tasting Ceretto’s 2016s

The notion of single-vineyard wines, commonplace in other regions such as Burgundy and Germany, is relatively recent in Piedmont.

Until the 1960s, Barolo and Barbaresco were blended wines, using fruit from different vineyards and sectors. Some producers, such as Bartolo Mascarello, still believe this is the best approach. The estate owns vines in Cannubi, so could theoretically produce a single-vineyard wine from this great site, but Maria Teresa Mascarello believes the blend is superior to the wine she could make from this single vineyard.

Scroll down for Stephen Brook’s tasting notes and scores for MGA wines

In the 1960s, Beppe Colla and a few other growers began identifying the vineyard source on the label. Over the decades, the number of single-vineyard wines proliferated as more and more growers began vinifying and commercialising their wines rather than selling the crop to a cooperative or merchant.

Label confusion

It started to become increasingly difficult for even the most avid aficionado to keep up with all of the new labels, and although some sites, such as Asili in Barbaresco or Cannubi in Barolo, enjoyed widespread recognition, others were obscure, to put it mildly.

Moreover, many labels displayed ‘fantasy names’ rather than a specific vineyard identity. One example is Chiara Boschis’ excellent Via Nuova, which is a blend of different sites. Gaja’s ‘cru’ wines also fall into this category: labels such as the Sorì San Lorenzo refer to specific parcels that lie within a recognised site. Gaja and many others were establishing brands rather than validating those individual sites.

All this was leaving consumers confused, so the powerful local consorzio embarked on a project to identify sites that could be designated as MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) – in short, single vineyards with clearly defined boundaries.

However, it was left to each commune to decide which vineyards qualified. And while some did an excellent job, identifying historical sites that had long been recognised locally, others were browbeaten by local growers who wanted their wines associated with a famous name.

Cannubi in the commune of Barolo was expanded, leading to lawsuits and counter- suits. The most notorious example is that of Monforte, which seemed to register any place where a blade of grass could grow: the renowned Bussia site was expanded hugely to about 300ha, thus making a nonsense of the whole project; and the Perno and Bricco San Pietro sites were not far behind.

Top producers, such as Aldo Conterno,, added parcel names such as Romirasco to assert that their wines came from the historic sector.

The MGA project went hand in hand with superb cartographical work by the wine writer Alessandro Masnaghetti who, on the basis of lengthy interviews with growers and merchants, compiled detailed vineyard maps for all the communes of Barolo and Barbaresco, establishing – where possible – the boundaries between each site.

Geography matters

In Barbaresco, the consorzio declared 66 MGAs in 2007; Barolo followed with 181 MGAs declared in 2010.

Unlike the Burgundian cru hierarchy or the recent German and Austrian attempts to establish ‘first growths’, there is no such hierarchy in Piedmont – they are simply geographical entities, with no implicit assertion of exceptional quality. It’s hard to see how there could be.

In Burgundy, practically all the best vineyards lie along a single slope with a similar exposition. However, in Barolo and Barbaresco, a site may look like a uniform piece of land on a map, but there will be many expositions and elevations, not to mention soil types and microclimates and varying clones of vines. One sector of a vineyard may yield superb Nebbiolo; another, with a different exposition, may be indifferent for Nebbiolo but outstanding for Barbera or Dolcetto.

Nor is topography static: global warming may mean that some parcels previously considered too cool for quality Nebbiolo may now be well placed to produce fresher, more elegant wines than a parcel across the valley that is now regarded as far too hot.

Much depends on the producer, too. A great grower and winemaker can validate a site that may not be fabulous, while a humdrum grower can make a hash of a great vineyard. For some, a blended Barolo is bottled leftovers; for others it’s commercially their most important wine and is consequently produced from high-quality grapes, including some from MGAs.

It would be easy to point to 20 or so vineyards that could aspire to grand cru status (were such a thing to exist here). The 10 selected below are a personal choice, and not intended to offer a seal of approval on potential grands crus. But I believe few would dispute that all these vineyards – when farmed well and vinified with expertise – are capable of producing some of the very finest Barolos and Barbarescos in existence.

Barbaresco

Asili

Located at 200m-270m, the 14ha Asili vineyard lines the slopes of a hill with complex soils of silty loam, clay and sand. Its wines are known for their finesse, charm and intensity. It was first validated by the excellent small cooperative Produttori del Barbaresco in 1971. The site was also championed by Ceretto and, most famously, Bruno Giacosa.

Top producers: Bruno Giacosa, Ca’ del Baio, Ceretto, Luisin, Michele Chiarlo, Produttori del Barbaresco, Roagna

Montestefano

This steep site produces some of Barbaresco’s strongest and most structured wines and they can be very long lived. Its high calcium content gives the wine its robust tannins. It was the late Beppe Colla of Prunotto, in 1961, who first identified Montestefano on the label as an exceptional vineyard. The wine delivers a weighty yet classic style of Nebbiolo that, with time, develops secondary aromas of leather and tobacco. Aldo Vacca, the long-term director of Produttori del Barbaresco, believes this vineyard gives the most Barolo-like wine from Barbaresco.

Top producers: La Cà Növa, Luigi Giordano, Produttori del Barbaresco, Prunotto

Rabajà

Another MGA that has excited controversy, as many believe its boundaries have been excessively extended. Part of it has been added to Asili, meaning the same rows of vines have supplied wine for two appellations. The 20ha vineyard, which faces south and southwest, slopes down to the top of Martinenga, while it borders Asili to the east. The soil is limestone with sand and clay. It delivers elegant yet muscular wines that age well, although they can certainly be appreciated when young.

Top producers: Barale, Bera, Bruno Rocca, Castello di Verduno, Giuseppe Cortese, Luisin, Produttori del Barbaresco

Barolo – Monforte (commune)

Bussia

Most agree that, with a surface of almost 300ha, far too large a swathe of Bussia’s vineyards is entitled to the MGA, rather than just the core historic sectors such as Bussia Soprana and Bussia Sottana. The former consists of an amphitheatre of vines, with complex expositions. Long-established producers such as Aldo Conterno name their top parcels, such as Cicala and Colonnello, on the label. Conterno’s most celebrated and costly bottling is labelled ‘Gran Bussia’, which is a fantasy name, but one protected by its longevity and renown. Less-prized sectors include Munie, but some producers do identify it on the label, and the wine can indeed be of very good quality.

Top producers: Aldo Conterno, Barale, Ceretto, Monti, Prunotto, Poderi Colla, Silvano Bolmida, Stroppiana

Barolo – Serralunga

Lazzarito

Fontanafredda is the principal owner and thus producer of wines from this elevated 8ha site. The best sector is sheltered and faces south and southwest, and there is a marked limestone content. The lower part of the vineyard is known as Lazzairasco and can be of comparable quality and longevity.

Top producers: Ettore Germano, Fontanafredda, Gagliardo, Guido Porro (Lazzairasco), Vietti

Vigna Rionda

This 10ha site on the western slopes delivers quintessential Serralunga wines that are powerful and structured, even austere, and need time to reveal their true complexity. The soil is calcareous, the exposition south-facing and the vines are planted at an elevation of about 330m.

Top producers: Arnaldo Rivera, Giacomo Anselma, Luigi Pira, Massolino, Oddero

Barolo – La Morra

Brunate

Like Cerequio, which is arguably of comparable quality, the 25ha Brunate vineyard straddles the border with the commune of Barolo, facing south and southeast on sandstone soils. The wines tend to be both aromatic and structured, with firm tannins that confer long cellaring potential.

Top producers: Altare, Batasiolo, Boglietti, Ceretto, Francesco Rinaldi, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Marcarini, Marengo, Oddero, Roberto Voerzio, Vietti

Rocche dell’Annunziata

Barolo’s chronicler Renato Ratti considered Rocche dell’Annunziata to be its ‘first growth’, and few would disagree. It extends over some 30ha on blue marl and sandy soils, but is divided into two sectors, one facing southeast, the other more sheltered and facing south and southwest. With its perfume, richness and finesse, it is quintessential La Morra.

Top producers: Aurelio Settimo, Franco Molino, Fratelli Revello, Mario Gagliasso, Mauro Veglio, Paolo Scavino, Ratti, Roberto Voerzio, Rocche Costamagna, Trediberri

Barolo – Castiglione Falletto

Monprivato

This southwest-facing 6ha vineyard has complex soils of clay, marl and limestone. It is 93% owned by Mauro Mascarello, who first mentioned the site on the label in 1970. Monprivato is planted with the Nebbiolo Michet clone, found in only 5% of Barolo’s vineyards. It is less productive than others and more prone to disease, but Mascarello believes it gives more structure and complexity to the wines. Any replanting is done with massal selections from the site (using cuttings from the best existing, mature vines). In top years, Mascarello also releases a special selection from Monprivato called Cà d’Morissio. Both wines are highly traditional and among the outstanding examples of this style.

Top producer: Giuseppe Mascarello

Barolo

Cannubi

One of the most historic vineyards in the region, having first been mentioned on a label in 1752. Its wines are prized for their elegance rather than for their power. The soil is grey-blue limestone marl with a high proportion of sand, which is an advantage in wet years as it drains well. The elevation ranges from 250m-320m, and being a south- facing site, it can become very hot in summer.

The problem is that there is a 34ha cluster of five sites that contain the name Cannubi, whereas the historic core of the site is a mere 15ha in the centre of the vineyard. The MGA proposals suggested that only the historic core should be entitled to the name of Cannubi on its own, whereas other parcels, such as Cannubi Boschis, should bear their full name.

Court cases ensued, as some producers outside the classic zones argued that their wines, while different from central Cannubi, were of equal quality – one example being the Cannubi Boschis from Sandrone. The decision to expand was reversed in 2012, and then reversed again in 2013.

Top producers: Altare, Brezza, Burlotto, Carretta, Damilano, Einaudi, E Pira, L’Astemia Pentita, Paolo Scavino, Réva, Sandrone, S&B Borgogno

The challengers

Canvass local opinion and you’ll find other top Barolo and Barbaresco sites will be mentioned, often thanks to one or two producers that have validated the exceptional quality of those sites. They include:

Castiglione Falletto (commune) Rocche di Castiglione

La Morra Cerequio

Novello Ravera

Serralunga Cerretta, Falletto, Francia

Verduno Monvigliero

Barbaresco Martinenga

10 MGA wines tasted: Stephen Brook’s scores and tasting notes

(listed following geographical outline above)

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‘1996 is one of the best vintages of the last century,’ declares Fontanafredda’s winemaker Danilo Drocco. ‘The problem is that it came right before 1997.’ The latter was much hotter and its seductively flamboyant, open-knit wines initially overshadowed the more austere offerings of 1996. But it is this cooler vintage that’s lauded today and its wines have outlived most of the 1997s.

The growing season in 1996 was unpredictable and proved quite challenging. The summer months were cool and cloudy, with their fair share of rain. But in Piedmont, it is September that really counts and the weather suddenly became warm, dry and breezy. Apart from a heavy two-day downpour later that month, ideal conditions continued through until harvest, which lasted well into October.

Complex and powerfully structured, the wines have taken years to come around. I remember sampling a number of them soon after their release and thought I had hit a brick wall. They were unrelentingly backward with searing acidity and arduous tannins.

The tasting

Almost 20 years later, I had the opportunity to check in on this storied vintage at a retrospective tasting in Vancouver, Canada in early February. It was organised by Peter Rae at International Cellars, a local importer responsible for bringing in some of the top names from Piedmont, and Vancouver-raised Ray Signorello, proprietor of Signorello Estate in Napa Valley.

Most of the wines hailed from Signorello’s private collection amassed directly from the wineries on his travels. The remainder (Paolo Scavino, E Pira & Figli, Ceretto, Domenico Clerico and Gaja) were contributed by attending collectors who purchased bottles upon release.

The event was held at Lupo Restaurant – a staple for Italian cuisine in Vancouver since opening its doors in 1994. (This is where my own Italian wine education began when I started waiting tables there in 1996, coincidentally.) We tasted through the 13 wines on their own, before enjoying them with a Piemontese-inspired dinner.

Winemaking philosophy

While the tasting was not designed to be a comparison of modern versus traditional wines, it is impossible to speak of the 1996 vintage without considering distinct winemaking philosophies of that period. This was the zenith of Piedmont’s modern revolution, epitomised by the ‘Barolo Boys’.

It is symbolised by the renunciation of large, old Slavonian oak casks (the traditional ageing vessel of choice in Piedmont) and the espousal of small French oak barriques, often new. However, proponents also adopted non-traditional techniques such as rotary fermentations and short maceration times of mere days.

The goal was to craft wines with greater international and immediate appeal. The most extreme examples have since been criticised – not just for winemaking obscuring grape and place but also for a poor ability to age.

The wines tasted fell predominately into the modern camp and included bona fide ‘Barolo Boys’ – producers like Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino and Domenico Clerico. More traditional examples were represented by Brovia, Bruno Giacosa and Aldo Conterno. However, even the latter estate was using rotary fermenters and doing macerations as brief as one week in the mid-1990s.

The verdict

Overall, the wines have aged well, especially those in magnum. The stamina of the vintage was evident. And rather than one style ageing better than the other, in this tasting it depended on each individual producer.

However, the most generously oaked wines made themselves known. The wood is still apparent, especially in the chunky nature of the tannins, even after 24 years. These wines in particular I would drink now while they still have the fruit to balance. The top wines of the vintage will continue to age.

In terms of personal preferences, Ceretto’s Brunate was among my favourites for its sheer, undemanding drinking pleasure. I was also charmed by Luciano Sandrone’s Le Vigne, the most gorgeously textured and perfumed wine on the table.

The two most impressive wines were Gaja’s Sperss and Giacosa’s Falletto di Serralunga. Essentially opposite in personality, the former bolted out of the glass, almost stubborn in its power; while the latter snuck up gradually. The tasting also included two Barbarescos and I was pleased to see Albino Rocca’s Vigneto Loreto hanging on gracefully.

Added perspective

The event was held just days after I had returned from Italy for Nebbiolo Prima, which included a showing of the highly acclaimed 2016 Barolo. These new wines fresh on my palate provided great perspective. Since the late 1990s, winemakers in the Langhe continued adapting their practices and the pendulum has swung the other way. Most have reduced or abandoned new oak, some have returned to or incorporated large vessels, and long macerations have made a comeback.

‘I was in full experimental mode,’ recalls E Pira & Figli’s Chiara Boschis of the 1996 vintage. At the time, she was using 100% new barriques but has now reduced that to a maximum of 30% along with introducing larger casks of 2,000 litres.

Today the lines between modern and traditional are blurred. Rather than two definitive sides, it is a continuum. These wines from 1996 therefore offer a snapshot of bygone, but very important, era that was significant in the Langhe’s evolution.

1996 Piedmont: The wines

Most of the Alto Piemonte wines were tasted in December 2019 during a visit to the top estates of the region.

The growing interest in this more northerly region of Piedmont has persuaded me to include some of its wines in this report. Historically this was an important area, but both the ravages of phylloxera and industrial growth, especially textiles, caused many vineyards to be abandoned, while the local population found it more rewarding to work in factories than on the land. The region is, moreover, only 90 kilometres west of Milan.

Scroll down for Stephen’s top 12 Alto Piemonte latest releases

By the late 19th century there were over 15,000 hectares under vine, and the wines enjoyed strong demand. A hundred years later the region was heading for extinction, but with rising prices for Barolo and other Nebbiolos, a renewed interest in Alto Piemonte led to a doubling of the vineyard surface between 2013 and 2019. The greatest validation came in 2018 when Barolo producer Roberto Conterno bought the century-old Nervi estate in Gattinara, although the wines he and his sons have made since have yet to be released. In addition, local textile tycoons have opted to revitalise certain estates. Paolo de Marchi, renowned for his Chiantis from Isole e Olena, has dispatched his son Luca to revive Sperino, the family’s ancestral but run-down property in Lessona. And Travaglini in Gattinara has maintained its steady, quality-oriented course for decades.

Alto Piemonte is composed of a handful of small communes: Ghemme, Gattinara, Sizzano, Lessona, Fara, Boca, and Bramaterra, as well as more generic appellations with more flexible rules (Colline Novaresi and Coste della Sesia). The differences between them in terms of soil and microclimate are too numerous to be summarised here. Local rules and regulations vary considerably, which makes it harder to claim a specific identify for the region. Indeed, Nebbiolo is not the only variety, and some appellations permit blends that include Vespolina, Croatina and Uva Rara (Bonarda). Although some excellent wines are made from Vespolina in particular, the recommendations that follow focus on Nebbiolo-dominant wines or pure Nebbiolos.

Alto Piemonte’s climate differs from that of the Langhe. Summers tend to be mild, and winters are often snow-free, as the region is sheltered by the Alps to the north. It’s difficult to characterise the wines, as there are inevitable stylistic variations, but in general Nebbiolos from here have less tannin and alcohol, and higher acidity, than Barolo or Barbaresco.

They also differ from the latter wines in that minimum ageing regimes vary from appellation to appellation; moreover producers are free to adopt individual ageing policies. Most Barolos and Barbarescos are released within a six-month window. For many Alto Piemonte producers the current release is 2015 or 2016, but others prefer to give their wines long ageing, either in barrel or in bottle, and for some of these, current releases could be 2013 or even earlier vintages. Sella, an historic estate in Lessona, makes a top bottling called ‘Omaggio’ that spends over four years in casks, and the current release is 2009.

Although Alto Piemonte is not a consistent region, and there are indeed rustic or simple wines from here, the quality and longevity of the best wines makes it an essential addition to this report.

Stephen’s top Alto Piemonte wines:

More from Stephen’s Nebbiolo report:

Barolo 2016 & Riserva 2014: Report and 100 wines tasted

Barbaresco 2017 & Barbaresco Riserva 2015: Full report

Barbaresco 2017

A cool April with hail and frost, followed by a hot and dry summer. Some rain fell in the weeks before the early harvest. A fine vintage for Barbaresco, against the odds.

5/5

‘In this vintage,’ says Gaia Gaja, ‘we had 80 days without rain during the summer.’ Europe is getting used to these scorching summers, but they can be problematic in often marginal areas such as Barbaresco, where the aim had always been to reserve the most favoured slopes for Nebbiolo that needed to be fully ripe. Today, optimal exposure can be a drawback, increasing the risk of sunburnt grapes.

The preceding vintage had been very warm but not excessively hot, so the wines retained freshness and acidity. There were fears that this would not be repeated in 2017 and that the wines would suffer from low acidity. To the surprise of many, this was not the case, and 2017 turned out to be a fine vintage for Barbaresco.

April began warm, but then temperatures tumbled. On 15 April there was hail. As so often, it was localised but Neive was badly hit. The problem for growers was compounded by a late April frost followed by some rain. From May through August it was very hot and dry, and the main problem was sunburn, which could be eliminated at harvest if not before.

Quick link: See all 38 Barbaresco 2017 & Barbaresco 2015 Riserva tasting notes

June temperatures broke records and nights were warm. Some beneficial rain did fall in late August and early September. Dolcetto and Barbera could have extreme ripeness levels, but Nebbiolo was better balanced and of very high quality. Still, it was an early vintage with Barbaresco picked from mid-September into late October. The only drawback was that the crop was rather small and about one-third below average.

So how come the best wines were so splendid when climatic indicators suggest they should have been jammy and flabby? Gaia Gaja gave her point of view: ‘Leaves were very small, which meant there was less sugar creation. And the extreme heat blocked maturation and thus helped the grapes to maintain acidity.

‘Berries and clusters were small this year, and that too concentrated acidity. Frost reduced some yields, as did the very thick skins. We also adapted our winemaking. We eliminated seeds at the first pumpovers to avoid extracting harsh tannins, and also cooled the vats to slow fermentations. The wines may not be as juicy as 2016, but the best have good ageing potential.’

Mixed reception

It has to be said that not all tasters have greeted the 2017 Barbaresco with acclaim, finding many of the wines light, shallow and lacking in structure. That was not my experience, although as in every vintage there are disappointing wines, even from normally reliable estates. One pleasant surprise is that despite the hail in Neive, the commune produced some very good wines. Hail, of course, does not necessarily reduce quality so long as careful selection is made to ensure no damaged or oxidised berries enter the vats.

2015 Riservas

Torrid July but cooler, moister conditions in August and September brought the grapes to ripeness. A small crop of charming wines.

5/5

The high quality of the 2015 vintage encouraged many growers to release Riservas. The summer had been hot but without the heat spikes that might have scorched the berries. Veraison was early, and cool nights in August and some timely rain helped to produce balanced wines from fully ripe grapes. The harvest was early and quite copious, with some forward wines with moderate acidity, but also some more structured wines that would have been singled out for Riservas.

Stephen’s top Barbaresco 2017 & Barbaresco Riserva 2015 wines:

See all 38 wines tasted

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The great majority of these wines were tasted blind in January 2020 at the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba, while others were tasted (non-blind) at the Grandi Langhe event that followed immediately after in Alba.

Others were tasted in London at importers’ tastings. Unfortunately at least one major tasting had to be cancelled because of Coronavirus, so some wines from top producers could not be tasted. And, as always, many estates choose not to pour their wines at tasting events.

Barolo 2016

Very warm weather in early September and October fully ripened the grapes, which remained healthy. Exceptional vintage for Nebbiolo.

5/5

It was obvious a year ago, when the 2016 Barbarescos came on the market, that this was an exceptional vintage for Nebbiolo. Even though the 2015 vintage had been met with acclaim, it seemed to many that the 2016s were even better – an impression confirmed after tasting the 2016 Barolos.

Dozens of excellent wines have had to be omitted from the recommendations that follow simply because there is not space to cover them all. Moreover, one finds the same diversity of styles as in a less homogenous vintage. House styles and vineyard typicity have not been eradicated by the high ripeness levels.

Vintage conditions

After a mild, dry winter, a rainy spring followed which helped to restore the water table. It was not especially warm, so there was little disease. The relatively cool temperatures also slowed the ripening season, and this continued through the summer and well into September.

Quick link: See all 100 Barolo 2016 & Riserva 2014 wines tasted

There was some rainfall, so the summer was not too parched, as rain fell at moderate intervals. Indeed, some rain was beneficial, and constant breezes kept disease at bay. The only fly in the ointment was limited hail damage in some Barolo vineyards such as Cerequio and in La Morra too.

The fine weather brought the grapes to high but not excessive ripeness levels, and the harvest continued at a relaxed pace until mid-October. Vietti in Castiglione Falletto, for example, picked from 6 to 12 October.

However, the weather had been slightly cooler than in 2015 and this made a significant difference, as acidity levels in the Nebbiolo were higher than in the preceding vintage. The vinifications were straightforward, and malolactic fermentation was completed at a leisurely pace. Moreover, alcohol levels were slightly lower than in 2015. There were a handful of flabby, overripe wines but they were very much the exceptions.

Comparisons

Most 2016s have a classic Barolo profile from a great year, and they are both structured and balanced. Vietti observed that even the seed tannins were ripe in 2016, so there was little risk of extracting harshness during the fermentation. In this respect they are comparable to the 2010s, but that vintage had its own specificity. Others compare it to 2013, but overall 2016 is the superior vintage.

Commune performance

As so often during this decade, the wines from Serralunga were often sensational. There were also excellent wines from Monforte, many with a distinctive savoury character. Castiglione Falletto also fared well. But there were some disappointments from Barolo itself, with some soft wines that lacked flair and persistence. La Morra was variable too, but given the size of the commune and its varying elevations, this came as no surprise. As in Barolo, some wines were a touch too soft, while others lacked volume and drive. But of course there were exceptions too.

Ageability

There is no reason to doubt that these wines will age very well. They don’t, I would guess, demand further bottle age in the way that more tannic vintages such as 2006 did. In the past, ferocious tannin levels and astringency meant that many Nebbiolos from top producers had to be cellared in order to become pleasurable. Advances in farming and vinification mean that most wines are accessible at a much younger age these days. But every one of these wines will benefit from a further five years in bottle and it would be a shame to drink the best wines now – their balance, acidity and structure should ensure a long life.

Barolo 2014 Riservas

After a stormy, wet summer, a fine September saved the vintage, although hail did much damage. Some very good wines, but inconsistent.

3/5

2014, as I reported two years ago, was undoubtedly a difficult vintage in Barolo. Wet conditions during the summer led some growers to panic and pick too early, even if for understandable reasons. Many estates did not release any single-vineyard wines but chose to instead blend the grapes so as to produce a generic Barolo of good quality. Others had the courage (or means) to wait until better weather returned in the autumn, as it did, and then pick at higher ripeness levels. So although it won’t count as a great vintage, 2014 did produce some very good wines – but not consistently.

Many of the wines were enjoyable young and overall it did not seem to be a year for lengthy cellaring. That makes it surprising that a few producers did opt to produce Riservas in 2014, requiring longer ageing of the wines in wood that could risk drying out the wines. Of the handful of 2014 Riservas tasted, some were clumsy, and the successes can be counted on the fingers of one hand.

Stephen’s top Barolo 2016 & Barolo Riserva 2014 wines:

See all 100 wines tasted

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Quality is the watchword for Barolo 2010, Ian D’Agata finds the vintage already displaying real density of textures and vibrant acidities.

At a glance

Classic, balanced wines from a relatively cool growing season and late harvests. Probably the best long-term potential of wines from 2009–2012

Once in a while, a vintage that is truly special appears to come knocking on the doors of wine lovers everywhere. Rarer, but even better, are those occasions when wine lovers are confronted with an embarassment of riches: such is the case with the 2010 Barolo vintage.

In 2010, the cool growing season and late harvest reminded me of vintages from the 1970s or early 1980s. Spring and summer were generally cool and rainy, delaying budbreak and ensuring a long, late growing season. August was characterised by foggy but warm weather (canopy management was particularly important to prevent stagnant humidity), followed by a September and October that were mostly dry.

Slow, even ripening and lack of excessive heat explains wines characterised by real density of texture and vibrant acidities. In some instances, because of the low crops of grapes the vines were carrying, some producers even harvested earlier than usual.

What the merchants say

‘A great year? Maybe yes, but I think we need more time to assess how the 2010 Barolos develop’ Bruno Besa, Astrum Wine Cellars

‘2010 is the defining vintage for the region’ Hew Blair, Justerini & Brooks

The better wines are characterised by good depth, precision, complexity and energy. However, since 2010 was not an especially hot year, cooler sites or those located at higher altitudes (or with overly high crop levels) experienced ripening difficulties and a few wines seem lean. When tasting the new wines last year I found them to be very classic, high-acid wines that were not especially fat or opulent; but their make-up has changed considerably over the past 8 to 10 months.

While once very youthfully austere, many 2010 Barolos are now surprisingly approachable, some almost too fat and alcoholic. In fact, Savio Daniele of the up-and-coming Le Strette estate in Novello remarked: ‘We are surprised by how forward some of the 2010 Barolos are turning out to be.’ In this light, be forewarned that the best 2010 Barolos were usually made from grapes grown in the most prestigious vineyard sites, so wines from lesser sites suffer in comparison to those made from the likes of Brunate or Prapò.

However, most of the 2010 Barolos will prove very ageworthy thanks to sound acidities; all should further gain in texture with age. Luca Currado of Vietti put it succinctly: ‘Quality in 2010 is all about location, location and location: it’s 80% terroir, 10% the work of man and 10% luck.’ Last but not least, though you will read otherwise elsewhere, I do not believe one commune outperformed the others, and the same was true of the 30 or so winemakers I talked to recently: some liked La Morra’s wines, others Serralunga’s, still others Castiglione Falletto’s.

Overall, I believe that 2010 was slightly overrated by some critics, who often taste too early when the wines really aren’t developed. That said, the 2010 Barolos are generally very good to outstanding. Most will never reach the lofty quality levels of the five stellar Barolo vintages of the past 50 to 60 years (1961, 1971, 1978, 1982 and 1989), but many will be memorable wines.

In fact, 2010 is the best Barolo vintage of the 21st century to date (along with 2001), and will go down in the books as one of Barolo’s better vintages. Last but not least, the fact Bruno Giacosa chose to declassify his wines and not bottle any 2010s is not a comment on the vintage’s quality but rather of problems at the winery linked to his poor health and temporary absence, problems that have since been resolved. His 2011s, for example, promise to be outstanding.

What the producers say

‘Modern-day, excellent Barolo: ageworthy, but many are readier to drink sooner than originally thought’

Federico Scarzello of Giorgio Scarzello and also president of the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo

‘2010 is a classic, exciting Barolo vintage; one of the finest. It is rare, in that the wines have almost perfect balance. Still young, they show somewhat linear structures but have real complexity, depth and and harmony’ Elisa Scavino, Paolo Scavino

‘2010 is a gift of nature and these are Barolos that warm our hearts! They offer a glimpse of both
the past and future of Barolo’ Aldo Vajra, GD Vajra

‘The wines are luminous, rich, savoury: I especially like their high acidity’ Marta Rinaldi, Giuseppe Rinaldi

‘The 2010 Barolos are complex wines that won’t be approachable soon, as the tannins will need time to come around’ Mariacristina Oddero, Oddero

‘2010 is an outstanding Barolo vintage, with wines of rare power and refinement that

will age splendidly’ Alessandro Ceretto, Ceretto

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Barolo 2010 panel tasting results

Barbaresco

Stephen Brook has singled out 2016 as a five-star vintage for Barbaresco, so it’s perhaps no suprise to see three wines awarded 94 points and above – even more than the two from the similarly five-star rated 2015 vintage.

Equally, it seems that the latest-release Barbaresco Riserva 2014s have outperformed last year’s Riserva 2013s. Bruno Giacosa’s Asili Riserva 2014 even tops the ranking, one of the two 2014s achieving 94 point and above.

Barolo

Meanwhile for Barolo, five 2015 releases have been awarded 94 points and above, compared to three in 2014. Aldo Conterno’s Romirasco has topped the charts in both years, marking it out as a top buy, with Stephen Brook noting that it’s the most structured of the Monforte d’Alba estate’s wines and is built to last.

When it comes to Barolo Riserva, no 2013s achieved over 93 points, of which there were six wines. Four 2012 Riservas were awarded 94 points and six were awarded 93 points, and so may be the better vintage if you’re after top-end wines for ageing.

Stephen’s top scorers from his Piedmont report:

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Barolo Riserva 2013

A cool spring with disease pressure was followed by a warm finish to the growing season with grapes ripening slowly, producing lean but nuanced wines in general with some first-rate examples.

4/5

The problem with 2013 was disease, or at least the constant threat of disease.

A cool spring and a rainy May forced growers to intervene to prevent the spread of maladies. The early summer was fine but the weather had resulted in large clusters, so growers had to thin bunches and also remove leaves to speed up maturation, which had been retarded by the poor spring.

Chiara Boschis of E Pira & Figli insisted that disease was easy manageable for those who de-leafed early and paid close attention to their vines.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barolo Riserva 2013 tasting notes & scores

The weather warmed up in September, with hot days and cool nights that were perfect for the balance of the fruit. There was no rush to harvest.

2013 was never going to be a crowd-pleasing vintage. The wines are perfumed rather than opulent, the structures lean and nuanced rather than full and weighty, yet many excellent Barolos were made in this vintage. Gaia Gaja remarked that ‘the grapes ripened slowly, and the wines are evolving slowly.’ So it comes as no surprise that there were many impressive Riservas produced in 2013.

Relevance

But tasting through them recently did make me wonder what purpose the category serves – a Barolo simply needs longer ageing, especially in bottle, to qualify as a Riserva. It’s reasonable to assume that they should be made only from the best sites and after selecting the best parcels or bunches, but that is not a legal requirement and it would be impossible to verify.

Many top properties never produce Riservas, probably on the grounds that they always seek to make the best, most balanced wines they can anyway.

There’s also the question of extremely long cask-ageing, which can, and does, result in wines that are excessively savoury and tannic, lacking in sheer fruitiness. Moreover, few modern consumers want to cellar Riservas for a decade or two before they become truly enjoyable – or, disappointingly, fail to do so.

Nonetheless, there are some first-rate wines here and those looking to buy some Barolo 2013 Riservas have a number of good options to choose from.

Stephen’s Barolo Riserva 2013 top picks:

See all of Stephen’s Barolo Riserva 2013 tasting notes & scores

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Stephen Brook reports on the 2015 Barolos - the latest vintage to be released. Are they worth buying?

Barolo 2015

A very hot summer with cooler weather at harvest time led to the risk of overripeness and lack of acidity – but the best wines combine sumptuous fruit with a robust structure for drinking over the next decade plus.

4.5/5

After the nail-biting climatic conditions in 2014, growers were relieved that 2015 proved less trying.

The flowering was successful but there was some poor weather in early June, which reduced yields. July proved extremely hot, even hotter than 2003, but the warmth was steady and there were no vertiginous heat spikes to burn the grapes.Intermittent rain refreshed the vineyards so there was no drought stress either. Cooler weather followed in late August, while September and October were sunny, leading to a harvest two weeks earlier than in 2014.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barolo 2015 tasting notes & scores

So far, so good. But the growing season was not entirely problem-free. Alberto Burzi in La Morra found danger lurking in torrid July: ‘Some outstanding vineyards are south-facing but they are also the hottest, so it was essential to maintain a good canopy to protect the bunches from excessive sunlight.’

It’s the same problem that growers in other regions and countries routinely encounter in the scorching summers that are becoming routine: strip leaves to improve ventilation and deter disease and you risk dehydrating the grapes. Maurizio Anselma added that another consequence of these changing conditions is that there can be great variation from site to site.

The other problem was acidity. Giacomo Conterno of the Aldo Conterno estate noted: ‘The Nebbiolo was beautifully ripe but one had to avoid excessive ripeness that could give cooked aromas and flavours.

‘It was also essential not to extract too much so as to preserve freshness, so our macerations were shorter than usual.’

Indeed, there are quite a few Barolos in 2015 that, while perfectly ripe, are also rather soft and lacking in energy and flair. They resemble vintages such as 2007 and 2009 – both lovely years that also provided many disappointing wines.

The wines recommended in this report are for the most part free of overripeness or soupy textures. But heavy wines do exist – they’re not poor in quality but they can lack structure and nuance and are unlikely to age very well.

What to buy in 2015

Quality seems fairly consistent across the board. There are some limpid and ethereal wines from Barolo itself, but many La Morra wines are rounded and forward.

Castiglione Falletto has delivered rich, solid Barolos that sometimes lack freshness or complexity, but in general they are well made.

Monforte also produced many solid wines, and Serralunga, as so often in recent vintages, delivered wines with heft, structure and staying power. Some are too dense, but most are polished and persistent.

Smaller communes such as Novello, Roddi, and Verduno are the source of many excellent wines. Ravera from Novello in particular has excelled in 2015.

2015 is being acclaimed as a great vintage, and in many respects it is. Unripe flavours and grating tannins are almost non-existent and if you’re looking for Barolo to drink over the next decade, this is an ideal vintage.

For those who enjoy the complexity that bottle age can bring to Nebbiolo, then this may not be an ideal year – it’s a question of taste rather than quality. Nor is there any shortage of magnificent bottles that manage to combine sumptuous fruit with a robust structure and good ageing potential.

It’s worth noting that similar reservations were expressed about 2009 Barolos, yet many of them show no signs of flagging.

Stephen’s top Barolo 2015 wines:

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Barbaresco 2016

Very warm weather in early September and October fully ripened the grapes, which remained healthy. Structured, balanced wines of finesse and freshness. Worth waiting for.

5/5

After a mild and mostly dry winter, the spring of 2016 was rainier but cool temperatures kept disease at bay.

It also slowed down the maturation cycle, and moderate summer temperatures didn’t allow the vines to speed up their growth. September and early October were warm and dry and enabled the Nebbiolo grapes to ripen fully.Overall it was a cooler summer than in 2015, and while the grapes did not lack ripeness, they could be picked in perfect conditions. There was more acidity than in 2015 so the wines are structured and balanced, with lower alcohol than the previous vintage.

Anna Lisa Nada of the Ada Nada estate summarised: ‘There was sufficient rain to keep the vines balanced and healthy. Because there was no extreme heat, there was no pressure to harvest early and picking the grapes took place in fine weather, resulting in elegant wines.’

There’s an invigorating freshness to the 2016 Barbarescos. They are not massive or overbearing but they have an intensity and verve reminiscent of 2010 in the best cases. And while the 2016s may not have the weight of the 2015s, they show more finesse.

The wines are quite open now, but it’s possible they will close up after a year or two in bottle. They may require some patience but they will be worth waiting for.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barbaresco 2016 tasting notes

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barbaresco 2014 Riserva tasting notes

Barbaresco 2014 Riservas

A fine September saved the vintage, producing light but elegant wines. Good examples of 2014 Riservas are thin on the ground.

4/5

If the summer was splendid in 2016, that was definitely not the case in 2014. Steady rain in late July and August stressed not only vines but growers, as they had to combat mildew and other maladies, and good ventilation of the bunches was crucial.

In Barolo some producers such as Cavallotto declassified all their Barolos to Langhe Nebbiolo, however Barbaresco fared much better.

There was some hail in Barolo, but none in Barbaresco, and the rainfall was lighter. Amazingly, given the short distance between the two regions, there was little rain from mid-August, whereas many Barolo sites were drenched.

The second half of September was sunny with cool nights, so those with patience could harvest ripe grapes. The result was a set of relatively light but elegant wines, especially from the top sites with the best expositions and drainage. Yields were close to normal, whereas Barolo suffered heavier losses after the difficult spring and flowering.

Although 2014 has probably been underestimated overall, it was not an ideal candidate for Riserva wines. Wineries such as the Produttori del Barbaresco delivered a fine set of wines – but it specialises in Riservas.

In general, good examples are thin on the ground. There’s a lack of flesh in the 2014s, and that’s not going to be enhanced by prolonged ageing – with just a few exceptions.

Equally important, given the relative lightness of the vintage, many winemakers did not want to skim off their best and ripest grapes for separate Riserva bottlings that might have reduced the quality of their regular Barbarescos.

Stephen’s top Barbaresco 2016 and Barbaresco Riserva 2014 wines:

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War is over. After years of controversy and division, Barolo’s new faces have established peace between modernism and tradition, and their focus is now in the vineyard, not the winery. By Tiziano Gaia...

A group of young rebels spark a revolution in a backwater town leading to violent clashes between the local Conservative and Liberal parties. The story in Gabriel García Márquez’s novel One Hundred Years of Solitude centres on a fictional town in Colombia in the early 1900s – but in the 1990s and 2000s, there was another ideological tussle occurring in Piedmont’s Langhe hills.

Scroll down for Tiziano Gaia’s pick of the best 12 Barolos

The so-called Barolo Wars pitched the modernists – interpreters of smooth, round wines – against traditionalists, faithful to a vision of the ‘king of wines’ as austere and firm. The former preached thinning of Nebbiolo bunches and brandished barriques to produce a rock-n-roll Barolo, while the diehards vigorously defended their lengthy macerations and refused to give up the blues of big barrels. As if in a kind of oenological parliament, producers were accused of either progressivism or conservatism.Tensions have eased in recent years as prosperity and compromise have prevailed. ‘Now the climate is definitely more relaxed, but our bellies are also full,’ says Silvia Altare. Her father, Elio, was a visionary moderniser who brought Barolo to the world’s attention from a small hamlet prophetically called Annunziata (‘the one who received the Annunciation’). He introduced small oak barrels and encouraged young growers to estate-bottle their wines rather than sell fruit.Three decades later, Silvia reflects the aspirations and anxieties of the next generation, one that owes much to the entrepreneurial spirit and charisma of its fathers, but at the same time is looking for its own way forward and identity. She is not interested in overturning the foundations of the family business, however. ‘It wouldn’t make sense – unlike our parents, young people are inheriting a successful winemaking model. I’ve kept the super-fast macerations that Elio introduced – just four or five days – but I tend to use a lower percentage of small new wood for ageing. Of course, when I present my wines, the first question I hear is, “What does your father think of them?”.’The wines of Barolo are not the same as they were just 10 or 15 years ago, and that’s a reflection of lessons learned through experience. Beppe Caviola – one of the region’s leading winemaking since Altare first persuaded him to bottle his wines in 1991– provides incisive insight. ‘All I can say is that I wouldn’t do a 100% new barrique Barolo again,’ he admits. ‘It’s not about rejecting the revolution, just adjusting the sights a little to align Barolo with new sensibilities.’

For Caviola, there is no single Barolo ideal. What exists today is an idea of contemporary Barolo: lengthy maceration and delicate extractions that fully respect the integrity of the grapeskin; controlled fermentations, medium or large wooden barrels for ageing, and the relatively new addition of concrete for post-fermentation maturation.

Return to the land

In the male-dominant Langhe landscape, Chiara Boschis believes that in recent years there has been too much emphasis on winemaking technique in Barolo, ignoring the economic and social improvements that Nebbiolo’s global success has brought to the region. ‘I’m thinking about the return of many young people to the land. Unless you were born here, you cannot understand what the Langhe was like before the wine renaissance in the 1990s. We’ve moved from the malora [a dialect term for absolute poverty], forcing people to flee the countryside, to the recognition of our vineyards as a UNESCO World Heritage site.’

The way forward now is not to focus on oak or maceration time, but on the sustainability of the prized vineyards and protecting the environment. Chemicals are on their way out, with Boschis leading the charge in the celebrated Cannubi sub-zone. She encouraged its producers to adopt a vineyard protocol entitled CannuBio. ‘While we lacked a common direction, everyone moved towards natural working methods,’ she says.

What’s more, wineries are increasingly investing in a specialised workforce that is replacing machinery, while also reducing chemical inputs. Though less mechanisation leads to increased costs, most wineries have been able to deal with it thanks to rising sales triggering a virtuous cycle: the increase in demand encourages improvements along every step of the production process, generating higher quality, which in turn leads to further demand.

Travelling around the 11 communes that make up the Barolo area is thrilling. The landscape that so enchanted UNESCO offers a spectacular archipelago of vineyards. As he admires the panorama from his winery’s terrace at La Morra, Pietro Ratti says: ‘Each parcel has its own soul, its own character. The future of our wines lies in exalting the crus.’

There is no better person than Ratti to talk on the subject. In his role as chair of the local winemakers’ consortium, he presided over the comprehensive mapping of the Barolo vineyards, continuing the legacy of his father Renato. The roots of the current 181 crus – the Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive – can be found in Renato’s 1970s Carta del Barolo, which classified sub-zones based on quality.

‘We have to complete the circle, through their designation in terms of greater or lesser value,’ says Ratti. Forward-looking producers hope that Barolo will become the first DOCG to create such a cru system, recognising the quality of its vineyards in a similar way to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Discussions are ongoing.

Enlightened view

Raising one’s gaze from the map to the endless expanse of vines, stretching seamlessly from the Langhe of Barolo out to Barbaresco, the complexities of such a designation are apparent. In comparison, modern and traditional were relatively simple concepts that reflected the spirit of a simpler time. But these days, defining Barolo with just one adjective would be a tricky task. The reaction to certain winemaking extravagances of the early 2000s resulted in the rehabilitation of historic norms; traditional and modern became fused and, more generally, there was a palpable domination of reason over emotion. It could be argued that Barolo is entering its own neoclassical era.

‘That’s all very well, but ultimately I believe that what’s important is producing a good Barolo, and trying to sell it,’ says Miroslav Lekeš in response to the theory. Originally from the Czech Republic, he is the owner of Réva, a winery with a restaurant, hotel and golf course in Monforte d’Alba. His pragmatic approach, which rises above the debates and old rifts, is not unique to the Barolo area.

The district has recently been attracting investors, from Italy and overseas, with little or no experience of the wine industry. They come to the Langhe not only for financial reasons. Underpinning the phenomenon is a love for the landscape, its history and the slow rhythms of the hillside towns. ‘After seeing the film Under the Tuscan Sun, I decided to buy an estate in Italy, and my research led me here,’ continues Lekeš. When he talks of his vinous inspiration, he cites with equal enthusiasm both La Spinetta and Giacomo Conterno – the equivalent of night and day when it comes to interpreting Nebbiolo.

The locals roll their eyes, considering his approach naïve. For them, wine is a serious matter. And yet new entrants breathe new life into the Piedmont air. Take Réva’s youthful employees, for example, or Milanese lawyer Gregorio Gitti, who, attracted by its illustrious past, bought the elegant Castello di Perno with the intention of turning it back into the artistic and literary hub it once was, as well as a site for wine production. The much-talked- about acquisition of the Vietti brand by American entrepreneur Kyle Krause further increased the already high value of the area’s vineyards. And who knows what we can expect from new wineries owned by Italians with no prior experience in wine, such as Garesio in Serralunga and ForteMasso in Monforte?

Looking ahead

The Langhe of the 2020s will be more multicultural and multilingual than ever, but those fearing a loss of character can rest easy. The new wineries are being entrusted to local experts. Krause has handed the management of Vietti to its former owner Luca Currado to ensure continuity, while Réva and Castello di Perno have turned to Gianluca Colombo, who perfectly represents the link between advancing innovation and tradition. The identity of the local area is not in question.

In the end, none of this is surprising: historically Barolo has always been subject to outside influences. In the 19th century, it was the Savoy monarchs who developed and promoted the wine, and for much of the 20th century its prime ambassadors were notaries, pharmacists and merchants.

Despite efforts to portray the area as an isolationist rural idyll, Barolo has the world in its DNA – and the wine world now has Barolo in its blood.

A freelance writer and editor, Tiziano Gaia first worked on Slow Food Editore’s wine publications in 2000. He was co-director of the 2014 movie The Barolo Boys: The Story of a Revolution.

See Tiziano Gaia’s pick of the best 12 Barolos

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Barbera is the perfect match for simple foods at Piedmont trattoria or osteria, but it’s not just the restaurant-going locals that have overlooked this grape – leading vintners in the region have regularly disparaged it too.

Early in his career, Luca Currado, winemaker at Vietti, remembers his father telling him that Barbera was a good way of honing his skills, as few would even notice if he spoiled what was considered a lowly table wine. ‘Work on Barbera, so you can ruin your first wine,’ he quipped, only half-joking.

But times are changing: producers in several districts in the region now treat Barbera with a great deal more reverence, as they craft ‘serious’ versions of this wine worthy of cellaring.

Scroll down to see Tom Hyland’s top 10 quality Barberas from Piedmont

Piedmont’s most planted variety remains the ideal partner for a humble lunch, especially when the antipasti consists of local salumi. Barbera’s fresh acidity cuts right through the fat of meats such as these, while its soft tannins make the wine instantly approachable.

Many examples are fermented and aged in stainless steel, which highlights the plummy characteristics of the variety, while other offerings, aged in large wooden casks, are more rustic in nature (ideal for strongly flavoured pastas). But the basic concept of Barbera being an everyday staple in the region is one that will continue as long as producers work with the grape.

Local rivalry

In the late 1970s and early ’80s, a small group of Asti-based producers believed that Barbera offered greater potential. This belief may have originated in a feeling of insecurity: Asti lacked the fame of the neighbouring province of Alba, where the Nebbiolo grape flourished in Barolo and Barbaresco. The best sites in Asti were less suitable for the production of age-worthy Nebbiolo, so growers settled upon Barbera as their grape of choice. While it made viticultural sense, the best versions of Barbera failed to capture the grandeur – and the lofty ratings – of the finest Nebbiolo offerings.

The late Giacomo Bologna was one of the most influential in elevating the image of Barbera. In the small village of Rocchetta Tanaro, the family’s Braida estate produced just one style of Barbera until the late 1970s – a frizzante named La Monella. His daughter Raffaella, who currently manages Braida with her brother Giuseppe, notes that this wine is still produced, and loved by area residents.

‘It is a contemporary wine with historic roots and is still very popular in Piedmont as a wine that is fun and delicious, especially when paired with traditional rustic foods such as fried anchovies or bollito misto.’

Breaking the mould

Bologna decided he could produce wines of ‘greater longevity, structure and elegance’. After years of experimentation, in 1984 he released a single-vineyard 1982 Barbera named Bricco dell’Uccellone. The fruit was harvested more than a week later than usual and matured in oak barriques rather than large casks, marking a radical departure – it divided opinion within the winemaking community, recalls Raffaella: ‘It was controversial around Italy. Winemakers were split 50/50 traditionalist versus revolutionary.’

The wine received critical acclaim from the wine press and Bologna soon introduced another single-vineyard Barbera, Bricco della Bigotta, which was followed up with a superripe style, Ai Suma. More than 35 years since the first Bricco dell’Uccellone, Braida remains one of most accomplished Barbera producers, and Giacomo Bologna’s legacy will remain intrinsically linked with this variety.

It wasn’t long before other Asti producers sought to emulate Bologna’s success with Barbera, combining late-picked grapes and maturation in small oak barrels. Late harvesting posed no problem for Barbera due to its naturally high acidity levels, but many producers were over-zealous with oak, using a high percentage (more than 50%) of small new oak barrels for their new releases. This often resulted in wines that may have offered flash and sizzle early on, but lacked harmony and finesse, soon drying out.

While much attention is paid to Barbera from Asti, there is important work being undertaken in Alba. In the village of Vergne, above the town of Barolo, lies the Viberti estate. Winemaker Claudio Viberti produces several Barbera wines, and has introduced higher density planting since 2006 in an effort to make more intense and complex wines. He also employs shorter pruning which, he claims, ‘forces the vines to produce fewer bunches of grapes’, and has adopted new clones that result in lower vigour. He matures the wines in the same 5,000-litre casks that he uses for Barolo, and the result of this oak regime in combination with his meticulous viticulture is a serious Piedmont red. A single sip of one his Bricco Airoli wines should be enough to convince any sceptics of Barbera’s credentials.

Visionary producers

It is a short drive to the city of Alba where Pio Boffa, proprietor of Pio Cesare, sings the praises of Barbera, while emphasising the importance of site. ‘Our Barbera is planted in top vineyard locations – in both the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations – in order to produce a very serious and elegant wine.’

His signature Barbera, Fides, is based on a single-clone vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, which Boffa planted with his father in 1991. Fides is Latin for faith, which the Boffas placed in Barbera rather than the more respected and more lucrative Nebbiolo grape. While the 2015 vintage is sophisticated, silken and ageworthy, the vineyard has since succumbed to disease. From the 2017, Fides will be sourced entirely from a vineyard in the neighbouring Monforte d’Alba commune. Boffa believes the wine will be just as good, ‘if not more refined’.

Clearly the path ahead for Barbera is now paved, thanks to the efforts of visionary producers across Piedmont. The variety has come a long way from its role as a simple osteria wine, as examples from Nizza and beyond offer complexity and ageing potential. Admittedly, there is still work to be done to maintain the momentum generated by Bologna and other trailblazers, but there is a buzz of positivity, as Boffa concludes: ‘The quality of Barbera has grown a lot in the last 25 years. All the producers of our region are emphasising the quality and authenticity of the grape. We predict it has a great future.’

Best of Barbera: Nizza DOCG

In a sign of the times, Barbera’s rising star has led to the creation of a tightly controlled denominazione dedicated to the variety.

The Nizza DOCG could perhaps be seen as the culmination of Giacomo Bologna’s early work, seeking the perfect place for Barbera in the Asti province. ‘Nizza is the grand cru of Barbera,’ says Stefano Chiarlo, winemaker at his father’s eponymous estate Michele Chiarlo. ‘In the future, it will be the third Piedmont appellation, with Barolo and Barbaresco, for ageworthy reds.’

At their best, the wines made under the Nizza banner are powerful. Despite the variety’s lack of tannin, these wines have the stuffing and structure to age for more than a decade. That’s likely down to tight boundaries and stringent regulations to qualify for the designation.

High-density planting and low yields are a must in the vineyard, and the wines must be matured for 18 months, six of which must be in barrel. Most Nizza wines are matured in small oak, but the woody flavours are generally well integrated.

Since 2014, the Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza DOCG status has been replaced by Nizza Superiore DOCG, meaning the grape variety does not even have to be listed on the label. In effect, the lawmakers and wine producers hope that the word Nizza will become synonymous with quality Barbera, just as Barolo’s identity is infused with Nebbiolo.

Tom Hyland is a Chicago-based wine writer and educator with a particular interest in Italian wines. He is the author of The Wines and Foods of Piemonte (CreateSpace, 2017).

See Tom Hyland’s top 10 quality Barberas from Piedmont

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See which wines Italian expert Michaela Morris has rated the highest during her tastings for Decanter in 2018...

Michaela Morris has contributed over 350 tasting notes for Decanter in 2018, including a full report on Tuscany’s latest releases, plus in-depth verticals of Italy’s top names such as Tignanello and Elvio Cogno.

She’s also covered Vermouth di Torino – an increasingly fashionable cocktail ingredient as well as an intriguing food wine – and has recommended top restaurants in the wine town of Jesi, near Ancona.

The following wines have all scored 95 points and above.

Michaela Morris is an international wine writer, educator, judge and speaker based in Vancouver, Canada. She is also a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is currently a second-stage student of the Institute of Masters of Wine.

Introduction by Decanter.com staff.

Michaela’s top fine wines of 2018:

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The best wines showed a distinct personality, and there were few disappointments in this 63-strong panel tasting. Subscribe to Decanter Premium to read the full report, including tasting notes & scores from our three judges...

• Sixty-three Barolo 2008 wines tasted, with five rated Outstanding by our panel of Stephen Brook, Michael Garner and Susan Hulme MW

Read the full report by signing up to Decanter Premium below

Go straight to the wines: See all 63 tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

Summary

Somewhere between bashful and truculent in their early years, these 2008 Barolos are now revealing a high standard of complexity and character, says Stephen Brook…

The tasting suggested that the wines from the Barolo 2008 vintage are maturing quite quickly, developing secondary aromas and gaining in weight of fruit.

As Michael Garner put it: ‘They’re reaching that plateau stage where the wines will continue to evolve but more slowly. There is no rush to drink the best wines.’ The word ‘classic’ was used by all the tasters, in contrast to vintages such as 2007 or 2009 which had more opulence and were user-friendly from the outset. The 2008s needed time to shed their initial austerity, but that is true of many great Barolo vintages.

Scroll down to see the top wines from the panel tasting

Garner added: ‘2008 was relatively cool, but it had also had longer hang-time and was picked late. That’s ideal for Nebbiolo, as it helps the grapes acquire aromatic complexity.’

For all the tasters this vintage character was entirely positive, and the tasting itself met their high expectations.

Susan Hulme MW detected a slightly green character in some wines, though it was welcome in both adding complexity and offering a contrast to the more obvious opulence of hotter years. She added: ‘The vintage is clearly underestimated, probably because it’s less voluptuous; what we have are wines that are balanced and harmonious.’

The tasters found excessive tannins in only a handful of wines. Few had been over-extracted and the tannins, while present, were well integrated. The same was true of acidity. Barolo needs both, but the task of winemakers is to keep them in check – by and large they succeeded.

Some earlier assessments of the vintage argued that many wines were too oaky, deforming Barolo’s authentic character. But this was not the panel’s conclusion. A few wines seemed marked by barriques, but not in an exaggerated way.

Garner had no quarrel: ‘You may lose some of the meatiness of Nebbiolo by using barriques, but you can also gain sweeter tannins. You may like or dislike that character, but it seems to me to be an entirely legitimate choice on the part of winemakers.’

Although there were some excellent examples in the riserva category, only one made it into the tasting’s top 10. Overall they showed no evident superiority to the best regular Barolos in this vintage. In some cases the long wood-ageing had tired the wine. Garner observed that few producers are skilled enough to manage very long wood-ageing without losing freshness.

Nor were early suggestions that La Morra had delivered the best wines borne out by the tasting. The tasters did not know the communal origin of the wines but, based on the results, Serralunga, La Morra and Barolo all appear to have performed well. But a more comprehensive tasting may have given different results.

The profusion of high scores confirms that the tasters were greatly impressed by most of the wines. Nebbiolo is notoriously difficult to vinify and age, even in its Barolo heartland, so it was gratifying to find so many excellent wines. They are evolving in different ways: some still rather brawny and reserved, others nearing their peak, others on a plateau on which they are destined to remain for many more years. The best wines showed a distinct personality, and while some were more successful than others, few were bland, overripe, or lacking in character.

This is a vintage that can be bought with confidence, although as always with Barolo, there are variations in style as well as quality. Some wines are opening up, but there is no rush to consume them, and the majority may well improve with further cellaring.

The scores

63 wines tasted

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to Barolo 2008 wines, including riservas

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly Recommended 35

Recommended 22

Commended 1

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 0

See all 63 wines from this panel tasting

Our tasters each pick their top three wines from the tasting:

Stephen Brook

Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and is Regional Chair for Piedmont at the Decanter World Wine Awards. He is a widely published wine writer and educator, and has authored more than 40 books, largely in the fields of wine and travel, for which he has won numerous awards.

Ettore Germano, Cerretta 2008

Serralunga is packed with good producers, and Sergio Germano is among them (terrific Riesling too). This wine dazzled here. Aged in 700-litre barrels, it’s a compromise between traditional and modern styles and none the worse for it. 98 Drink 2019-2031

Marcarini, Brunate 2008

Marcarini’s Baroli from La Morra are first-rate. Unswervingly traditional, given a long fermentation and then at least two years in large casks, often combining floral aromas with an imposing tannic structure. 96 Drink 2018-2029

Silvio Grasso, Ciabot Manzoni 2008

This barrique-aged Barolo from La Morra is a wine that always needs time to become harmonious, and is now achieving its balance. One of six Baroli made by Federico Grasso and his family. 96 Drink 2018-2029

Michael Garner

Garner lives in rural Devon and has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years, specialising in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is a regular contributor to Decanter and DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy. He is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona and co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses.

GD Vajra, Bricco delle Viole 2008

The same wine showed wonderfully well at Decanter’s recent Italy Fine Wine Encounter Barolo Masterclass and it didn’t disappoint here. A wine of tremendous balance and style, the combination of freshness and opulence is quite outstanding. 98 Drink 2019-2029

Terre del Barolo, Cannubi 2008

Usually known as the source of bargain basement Barolo, the area’s largest cooperative also produces a range of premium wines. This is an impeccably crafted example which shows off the distinctively aromatic character of Barolo’s most famous vineyard. 98 Drink 2019-2030

Ettore Germano, Cerretta 2008

Sergio Germano’s wines are always worth looking out for and epitomise the rich, powerful style the valley is reputed for. Beginning to drink beautifully and will last. 96 Drink 2019-2031

Susan Hulme MW

Hulme is a wine writer specialising in Italian wines. Since 2016 she has written regularly for Decanter and Decanter.com. Hulme has lived and worked in Italy and regularly travels through its wine regions. She became a Master of Wine in 2005, winning the Madame Bollinger medal for outstanding performance in the tasting exam.

Ettore Germano, Cerretta 2008

Sergio Germano’s favourite Barolo from his portfolio is the quintessence of Serralunga – power and intensity without being heavy, with a shock of electric energy to balance the concentration and depth. 97 Drink 2019-2031

Poderi Aldo Conterno, Cicala 2008

One of the great names who helped to revolutionise the quality and image of modern Barolo. The 2008 Cicala truly reflects some of the cool, green, balsamic qualities of the vintage; edgy, tightly structured but generous and approachable. 93 Drink 2019-2029

Bruna Grimaldi, Badarina 2008

This producer was an exciting discovery for me at the 2018 Nebbiolo Prima. The quality impresses, as does the enthusiasm and commitment of Simone Grimaldi, involved since 2015. One to watch. 92 Drink 2019-2030

About Barolo 2008

If the public perception of the 2008 vintage in Barolo is somewhat blurred, that is probably because the producers’ own experience of the vintage is inconsistent. Local microclimates and the range of exposures and elevations mean that growers can encounter considerable variations.

In a climatically uniform and acclaimed vintage, or conversely in a rainy, rot-infused vintage, all growers will have lived through much the same conditions, but that is the exception rather than the rule.

In 2008 the spring was cool and wet, and outbreaks of mildew and oidium, although treatable, did result in crop reductions. August was characterised by both wind and hail (again localised), but conditions improved in September. Nonetheless some individual vineyards had been damaged by adverse weather and needed to be harvested with care.

One characteristic shared by most wines was that the tannins were firm and the wines would need time to mature. There were undoubtedly problems with other varieties such as Barbera in 2008, but Nebbiolo coped better.

Slow starters

Overall, 2008 was a cooler year, so overripeness and high alcohol were not major issues. However, the pronounced tannins made the wines difficult to appreciate and assess when young: an occasional herbaceousness and rigidity, while characteristic of Barolo in such a year, could give the impression of austerity. The wines are now revealing their full potential, and many of them will offer good value compared to more acclaimed vintages such as 2009 and 2010.

Enrico Rivetto in Serralunga was not that happy with the vintage, but other growers such as Luciano Sandrone and Pio Boffa were more enthusiastic, describing it as classic and pure. Some find a resemblance to 1998, others to 1978. Some consider it relatively accessible, others, such as Pietro Ratti, as more acidic but also more profound. As for communes, La Morra seemed to have fared best, followed by Barolo itself.

Such assessments were made when the wines were young, and one would expect a decade to have smoothed out any rough edges. Diverging assessments may also reflect the success of each estate. A handful decided not to produce any single-vineyard (cru) wines, though these were in the minority.

One consistent thread in appreciations of the vintage is that tannin levels were high, and the management of those tannins proved crucial in the ability of each wine to evolve. This is the right moment to see how they are developing, although the best will surely have a long life ahead of them.

Barolo: the facts

Surface area 2,161ha

Growers 770

Sole permitted grape variety Nebbiolo

Maximum yield 56hl/ha

Minimum alcohol 12.5%

Both regular Barolo and Barolo riserva must spend a minimum of 18 months in wood, and the total ageing period for regular Barolo is 38 months, and 62 months for the riservas.

Barolo: know your recent vintages

2017 Hail in April, sporadic rainfall, and a long, dry summer with heat spikes. Small berries, concentrated wines that may lack perfect balance.

2016 Fine summer weather continued into September, with cool nights giving prolonged hang-time. Potentially superb. Drink 2021-2038

2015 July was hotter than 2003, but it cooled off in late August. Early-drinking vintage, resembling 2007 and 2009. Drink 2019-2030

2014 Early summer was wet with sporadic hail, but sunny days from mid-September. October weather worsened, leading to some variable quality. Drink 2018-2028

2013 Wet spring but good flowering, some mildew in a fairly cool summer. Generous crop, and a wet September gave less rich wines, but the best are perfumed, elegant. Drink 2019-2030

2012 Complicated by hailstorms, heat spikes, and sunburn, but there are some excellent wines. Drink 2018-2025

Top Barolo 2008 wines from the panel tasting:

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Giuseppe Rinaldi - known simply as 'Beppe' Rinaldi to many in Piedmont - was one of the most respected Barolo producers of his generation, as well as one of the most outspoken.

Italy’s Giuseppe Rinaldi, one of the most acknowledged and respected producers of Barolo, died aged 70 on Sunday in Barolo.

Son of Battista Rinaldi – mayor of Barolo during the ‘70s – Giuseppe originally graduated as a veterinarian. But he became involved in the family winery from the age of 29 in 1967.

Known to friends simply as ‘Beppe’ and nicknamed “Citrico” (citric) for his cutting comments, he was the last survivor of an uncompromising trio of Barolo producers, also including Teobaldo Cappellano and Bartolo Mascarello.

Rinaldi never changed his austere yet elegant style, obtained by long maceration of the Nebbiolo grape, nor did he swap the large neutral Slavonian oak vessels for new small French barrels.

He was always very critical of ‘ready to drink’ Barolos, preferring firm, long-lived wines. He was also sceptical about Mga (menzione geografica aggiuntiva), preferring the harmony and balance of blending different ‘Bric’, ‘Ciabot’ or ‘Sorì’, as are called the hills of the Langhe.

From 1993 he labelled his Barolos as ‘Brunate, Le Coste‘ and ‘Cannubi – San Lorenzo, Ravera‘.

Today, Rinaldi’s reputation for creating wines with outstanding elegance will be carried forth by Beppe’s daughters, Marta and Carlotta; in charge of the winery and the vineyards respectively.

Yet the Langhe region is losing one of its most authoritative voices.

Rinaldi was sceptical about the extension of the Barolo DOCG zone, which increased by 30 hectares (ha) in 2018 after being enlarged by 10 ha in 2017.

Rinaldi was also critical of rising land prices in Barolo territory. Some estimates suggest that put the price per hectare is up to two million euros for the best plots, with vineyard land sales up by 7% last year.

‘Too much money in too little time, which is changing the Langhe region and our producers from viticulturists to business men,’ Rinaldi said.

‘I admired him and the purity of his Barolos,’ said Dante Scaglione, a consultant of Bruno Giacosa and one of the leading winemakers for the most traditional-style Barolos.

‘He sought depth in Nebbiolo without any artificial intervention. He was able to express the true masculine essence of Barolo.’

A civil ceremony to pay respect to Beppe Rinaldi will be held at his home this Wednesday (5 September).

Editing by Chris Mercer.

Updated 5th September: Rinaldi turned 29 in 1967, rather than 1947 as originally stated. 

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Following on from the recently re-published Barolo 2010 panel tasting, we have delved deeper into our archive to bring Premium subscribers the Barolo 2009 results - lauded by our experts as a vintage that confirms Barolo's greatness. See the full report with all 140 tasting notes and scores below.

Published in the November 2013 issue of Decanter magazine and now available online and in full, exclusively for Premium subscribers.

• 140 Barolo 2009 wines tasted, with nine rated Outstanding

• ‘Quite an achievement when you consider the vintage conditions,’ agreed our panel of Paolo Basso, Ian D’Agata and Michael Garner

Barolo 2009 vintage summary:

Rating by Stephen Brook in 2018

Drink or Keep

A hot year, delivering lush succulent wines, but with moderate acidity. Can already be enjoyed for their abundant fruitiness.

4.5/5

Summary

This was a tasting that confirmed Barolo’s general greatness. Encouragingly, we saw top performances from a mix of more established and younger producers, reports Ian D’Agata in Decanter’s November 2013 issue…

An admirable performance, everyone agreed. I was surprised by just how luscious and downright enjoyable almost all the wines were – and, though they might not be the most ageworthy Barolos of the past few decades, the better wines will improve over the next 10 years and have enough acid and tannic spine to age for another 20.

Quick link See all 140 wines from this panel tasting

A number of very interesting observations arise. First, that great Barolos were…

…made across sub-zones in 2009, with splendid wines from both famous and less famous crus: Monvigliero in Verduno (Fratelli Alessandria) and Ravera and Bergera Pezzolle in Novello (respectively by Elvio Cogno and Le Strette). The Scuola Enologica d’Alba also turned in a very good effort from Grinzane Cavour.

Scroll down to see the top wines from the panel tasting

However, there is no clear-cut winner among the communes: Barolo and Monforte each placed six wines in the top 20, La Morra four; and, at two each, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga are perhaps somewhat less represented than current wisdom might have led one to imagine.

The big five communes of Barolo, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte and Serralunga remain the source of the vast majority of great Barolo, an observation further strengthened by the fact that those producers who own vineyards and make wines in other communes still chose to send in a wine from one of the big five (producers were allowed to send in only one wine each).

A very encouraging finding is the many up-and-coming producers confirming the many good things being said about them: Bric Cenciurio, Diego Conterno, Bruna Grimaldi, Ciabot Berton, Giacomo Grimaldi, Ferdinando Principiano, Rivetto, Serradenari, Sobrero and Virna are just some of the many rising stars of the region.

Another plus is that some estates appear to have made one of their best wines in a decade – I don’t believe I have ever tasted a better wine from Stefano Farina or from Serio & Battista Borgogno.

Last but not least, all the usual suspects have confirmed their star status, with outstanding wines made by the likes of Brezza, Ceretto, Conterno Fantino, Renato Corino, Marengo, Paolo Scavino and many more.

There were some usually very great wines that performed poorly (Sandrone, E Pira & Figli, Castello di Verduno and Cavallotto); though on other recent occasions I had personally found them to be better – a slight tannic grittiness may have held less appeal on the day of this particular tasting. Time will tell.

The scores

140 wines tasted

Outstanding 9

Highly Recommended 56

Recommended 69

Fair 6

Poor 0

Faulty 0

Continue reading below

See all 140 wines from the panel tasting

The results

It was a warm year, but Barolo producers came up trumps in 2009, crafting wines that bowled our judges over with their drinkability, refinement and sheer deliciousness. Christelle Guibert reports…

With more than 95% of wines recommended and nine Outstanding wines, the Barolo 2009s definitely impressed our judges.

After two days of tasting, they were blown away by the quality of the wines. ‘I can’t remember having been to a Decanter tasting before where I saw such a high standard across the board,’ enthused Michael Garner. Indeed, judges deemed 2009 one of the best vintages in the last couple of decades.

Quite an achievement when you consider the vintage conditions. ‘It’s a great year, but a warm year,’ explained Ian D’Agata. ‘August was very hot and some vineyards underwent metabolic stress and blockage which can cause green and astringent tannins.’ Thankfully, with only a handful of these wines not recommended, consumers can feel confident in their purchase.

Paolo Basso noticed an evolution in winemaking style: ‘2009 was hot but the wines tasted prove that today, producers have a better understanding of their terroir and can master hot vintages, which wasn’t the case 10 years ago. The 2009s don’t display the characteristics of a hot year, which means Barolo producers had better control of the picking window.’

Communes

Communes were pretty consistent. Garner commented: ‘I’ve never seen such a clear-cut demonstration of the different styles of the main communes.’ The best were Barolo and La Morra. Garner felt the La Morra wines ‘were very accessible, aromatic, ripe, seductive and lovely’.

Serralunga d’Alba, the darling of Barolo, was the most criticised. D’Agata explained ‘there is no kind way to say it, but producers’ skill level in Serralunga is not as high as in La Morra or Monforte. In the past, every producer wanted to buy grapes from Serralunga because they all knew it was the best commune for Nebbiolo. And as growers had no problem selling their grapes, they had no reason to make their own wines.’

Basso echoed this view: ‘Terroir is essential but it always comes back to the producers. Even a great terroir will not express itself in the glass without a producer who understands it.’

Garner praised the structure of wines in the tasting: ‘They’re so well-balanced, they have a bit of everything: beautiful structure, really good acid, just the right amount of tannin, lovely ripe fruit – delightful.’ D’Agata also described them as ‘fleshy, charming and immediately delicious,’ not typical of Barolo.

Surprisingly, the judges felt many wines were drinking well already, though some would improve over the next 10 to 15 years. D’Agata elaborated: ‘The vintage will probably age a little less well than 2001 and 1996, but it will age, and there will be wines that are great for beginners who see Barolo as a behemoth. With 2009, people have a chance to taste Barolo when it’s fleshy and fun – a bonus for everyone: restaurants, consumers and producers.’

Barolo has a reputation for being over-oaked but judges felt the use in 2009 was more controlled. D’Agata found that in this tasting those wines matured in big oak casks ‘that have no sexy wood spice, no vanilla’, came out on top – ‘the strength of the fruit came out first’, he said.

Basso added: ‘A decade ago, small barriques were fashionable, and it’s nice to see producers going back to traditional methods.

Garner summed up: ‘Classic Barolo is getting better and better. The winemaking approach is quite rightly being consistently refined and I think we’ve hit a new high with 2009.’

Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:

Paolo Basso

Basso is the regional chair for Switzerland at the Decanter World Wine Awards. He is a wine trader and consultant through his own company, Paolo Basso Wine in Lugano, Switzerland, as well as a wine producer. His first own label red wine, ‘Il Rosso di Chiara’, was dedicated to his daughter.

Basso has won many awards, including Best Sommelier of Switzerland 1997, Best Sommelier of Europe 2010, and Best Sommelier of the World 2013. He is one of just six sommeliers to hold both the European and world titles. Since 2014 he has been in charge of the wine selection for Air France and he is a member of the technical committee of the International Sommelier Association.

‘After this amazing tasting of Barolo 2009, we can highlight two important facts: the high quality of the vintage and the increasing sensibility of the winemakers to the use of wood.

‘2009 is an outstanding vintage that has allowed producers to bring grapes to a high level of maturity. The balance between alcohol and acidity has given well-concentrated and harmonious wines with great personality. There is a lot of high-end wine from all villages, with an outstanding performance from the Cannubi vineyard in Barolo.

‘One key fact of this vintage is the high maturity of the tannins, which allow wines to be drinkable in the short term, as well as having good ageing potential. The other good news is the increasing sensibility of the winemakers to better calibrate the use of wood. The trend to use bigger barrels seems to be a good way for maturing Nebbiolo, which traditionally was aged in large botte in the past.

‘Barolo producers are generally moving together toward a high level of quality, improving their knowledge and integrating modern winemaking techniques with traditional methods.’

Virna, Cannubi Boschis 2009

The seductive nose of wild strawberries is mixed with aromas of balsamic, eucalyptus and anise. The wood is well-integrated and gives notes of vanilla and sweet spices. A rich, complex mouthfeel, complemented by round, ripe tannins and a long, savoury aftertaste. 96/100 Drink 2015–2025

Rocche dei Manzoni, Perno Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano 2009

A refined wine from one of the lesser-known crus of Monforte d’Alba. Violet, roses, sweet spices and blackcurrant introduce a wine of great personality, deep taste, velvety tannins and very long finish. You can enjoy it young, but it will age well. 95 Drink 2015–2035

Paolo Manzone, Meriame 2009

This lovely wine from Serralunga d’Alba displays aromas of ripe plums, cloves, dried violets and black pepper. The gentle winemaking technique gives a round, soft and well-extracted, full-bodied wine. This is a very pleasant Barolo with a great price-to-quality ratio. 91 Drink 2015–2025

Ian D’Agata

At the time of this tasting D’Agata was a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and was named Italy’s best wine journalist 2012 by the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia. He is an award-winning author of The Ecco Guide to the Best Wines of Italy, and The Native Wine Grapes of Italy.

‘I do not recall ever taking part in a better panel tasting at Decanter. The quality of the wines was absurdly high overall, with bottle after bottle that was, at worse, very good, but with most superb and many downright outstanding, as shown by our very high scores.

‘The 2009 vintage is a great one, and the wines are in the hot weather style of 2001 and 2007 – but due to good day-night temperature differentials, the vintage avoids the excessive traits of an unsuccessful year such as 2003.

‘It follows that the 2009s are fleshy, soft and offer plenty of early appeal: ideal for those who wish to know Barolo better or those turned off by the wine’s “monster tannins” reputation.

‘The only wines that disappoint are those made with very young vines or in very sandy soils, as the strong heat of the summer caused some wines to have less than perfectly ripe tannins. Less successful wines – happily, a minority – are marred by a green streak and rough tannins. There were excellent wines made in all the various crus and townships – another plus.’

Luigi Pira, Marenca 2009

A Serralunga d’Alba Barolo that is slightly more approachable than most, given the tough-as-nails tannins this area is known for. This result is a fitting tribute to a family that has been making outstanding wines for decades. 94 Drink 2015–2024

Oddero, Rocche di Castiglione 2009

There might be better traditional Barolos than Oddero’s, but not many. Mariacristina Oddero runs the estate with passion, grace and charm, and this wine, though less famous than her Vigna Rionda or Brunate, is an excellent introduction to the house style and to Barolo. 91 Drink 2014–2025

Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubbio 2009

You’d never guess this sat for 36 months in oak: it’s an absolutely splendid rendition of the Cannubi vineyard. Like at Oddero, women run the show here, and run it well. 90 Drink 2014–2022

Michael Garner

Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is the co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses, writes and judges for Decanter and has taught for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust.

‘I was really impressed with this tasting: there were so many good wines. Above all else, I saw definite stylistic traits from each of the five major communes, which can be seen as a clear indication of just how good a vintage 2009 is.

‘The wines are fairly forward, perfumed and very well-balanced, with beautifully ripe tannins. And, while they are very approachable already, they should also last well in the medium term – five to seven years.

‘So I’m delighted that the overall standard was high with reassuringly little evidence of careless cellar practice – many of the smaller up-and-coming producers gave a very good account of themselves, which bodes well for the immediate future of Barolo.

‘I must put in a word for the wines of Castiglione Falleto, the smallest of the major communes. While correspondingly there were fewer examples on show, I found the general level of the wines to be first-rate. Castiglione Falletto is traditionally said to combine the elegance and approachability of the more westerly communes with some of the power and structure of those to the east (Monforte and Serralunga d’Alba) – and that showed through on the day.

‘How drinkable these wines are and will continue to be!’

Fratelli Savigliano, Barolo 2009

This is from a Dolcetto specialist at Diano d’Alba. I loved the unrestrained exuberance of the wine – its fleshy, ripe and scented character is so typical of La Morra. 96

Drink 2013–2022

Virna, Cannubi Boschis 2009

Barolo’s most famous vineyard doesn’t always deliver, but this example was seductively aromatic and expressive, yet with decent structure too, highlighting the tendency for the wines from this commune to show a little more substance than those from La Morra. 96 Drink 2015–2025

Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio 2009

nother winery I had not come across before: tasting this traditionally styled wine was a little like stepping back in time. Lovely aromas with good texture and a tight structure, which promises the ability to age well. Classic Nebbiolo. 96 Drink 2014–2022

About Barolo

Barolo is one of the world’s best wines and one of its most beautiful wine tourism destinations. The bucolic countryside located near the charming town of Alba in Piedmont, Italy, is blessed with a truly noble grape, Nebbiolo, which delivers full-bodied wines exuding unforgettable aromas of sour red cherries and red roses, with noteworthy ageing potential.

Barolo demonstrates extreme site-specificity, with hundreds of small, family-owned estates, and cuisine that rivals the best of Italy’s many regions. It’s not surprising that many believe Piedmont bears more than a passing resemblance to Burgundy.

Barolo wines have never been better, with a string of strong vintages in the first decade of the 21st century. The producers are, for the most part, a united bunch, greatly helped by institutions such as the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo and the local consorzio, both of which help promote the wine and the area.

Witness the Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (delimiting the individual vineyards), a rarity in Italy. Though the creation of the MGAs has attracted some criticism (some are simply too large), everyone in Barolo can, largely, be happy with the result. The classification is not a quality scale of the single vineyards, but rather characterises the area in which a specific Barolo wine is made – a good idea given the geological variation of the production zone.

Styles and trends

The wines can be remarkably different: the extremes are represented by the communes of La Morra and Barolo, which produce earlier maturing, perfumed, less tannic wines, while wines from Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba are bigger, tougher and slower developing.

The wines of Castiglione Falletto fall somewhere in between in style, and Barolos from Verduno, Roddi and Novello are different still.

Current trends include an increasing number of small-production wineries as more enthusiasts try their hand at making Barolo; wines being aged in bigger oak casks or tonneaux (500-litre barrels) rather than barriques (225 litres); and a marked shift towards organic growing.

Except for some limited-quantity collector items, prices are reasonable. An unfortunate development would be further enlargement of the Barolo production zone: being very site-sensitive, Nebbiolo can give truly world-class, unique wines only in specific areas. There is already a chasm between wines made from the best sites of Monforte or Barolo and those made in Cherasco or Roddi.

Barolo 2009

The outstanding 2009 vintage offers Barolos with plenty of early appeal, fun to taste even when young, though the best will age 30 years or more.

The vintage qualifies as a warm-weather one, similar to 2007 – the wines have greater flesh than 2005 (but less perfume) and are less tannic than 2006. A minority are marred by vegetal notes and rough, unripe tannins, either because of the brief but extreme summer heat causing metabolic blockage in younger vines and those in sandier soil, or over-extraction.

However, there are great wines to be had from virtually every Barolo sub-zone.

See Stephen Brook’s vintage summaries for Piedmont going back to 1990

-Updated in 2018-

Top Barolo 2009 from the panel tasting:

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Barolo 2010 panel tasting results

Ten of the best Italian vineyards & terroirs

Tasting Borgogno Barolo Riserva back to 1937

10 hidden gems in Southern Italy

Ian D’Agata selects his star vineyard sites across Italy, and we include wine recommendations from Decanter's expert tasters.

Originally published in the May 2016 issue of Decanter magazine and now available for the first time online, only for Premium subscribers...

For the most part Italy is nirvana for wine terroiristes; the country has always been associated with myriad specific terroirs linked to unique wines.

In ancient Roman times, many wines were distinguished by their place of growth on a slope or hill: hence, Gauranum (top), Faustianum (middle) and Falernum (foot).

Scroll down to see the top Italian vineyards and wine recommendations

Importance of site has continued into modern times: in Friuli, the best Picolit wines have always been associated with four specific places, not the whole region (as the hapless modern DOCG would have you believe).In Campania, the best Fiano wines are also made in four finite areas, and of course it’s not by chance that Panzano, in Chianti Classico, is nicknamed the ‘golden amphitheatre’.Even in Barolo and Barbaresco, where single-vineyard designations became commonplace only in the 1980s, négociants always looked to buy grapes from the same specific vineyards in practically every vintage.

I based the following list of Italy’s best vineyards and terroirs on historical fame, average price of the wines made there, and the all-important interaction between grape variety, geology and microclimate in expressing truly unique wines impossible to make anywhere else – wines that speak clearly of a specific place.

1. Asili

(Barbaresco, Piedmont)

Asili – three hectares at 200-280m – gives a true Barbaresco archetype: sleek yet profound, powerful yet graceful, mineral yet fleshy, and extremely ageworthy.

The site is roughly 40% silty loam, 30% clay and 30% sand, and though these numbers vary greatly depending on where the terrain is sampled, Asili’s relatively high sand content explains the amazing refinement and youthful rigidity of its wines.

Always highly thought of, it was the first vineyard the Ceretto family bought (in 1969), and Bruno Giacosa was bottling an Asili Barbaresco in 1967, buying land there in 1995. By contrast, the Grasso family of Ca’ del Baio has owned its Asili vines since the 1920s.

Picking just one great terroir from Barbaresco is nigh impossible: Pajorè, Santo Stefano or Rabajà would all have merited that same honour. But my choice goes to Asili because of the sheer number of outstanding producers who make great wines there, and because its wines seem less affected by the increasingly warm temperatures in times of climate change.

I’m splitting hairs, really: when it comes to wines made from these hallowed sites by equally competent producers – Bruno Giacosa, Ca’ del Baio, Ceretto, Produttori di Barbaresco, Bruno Rocca, Giuseppe Cortese, Sottimano ,Castello di Neive – they are first among equals.

2. Cannubi

(Barolo, Piedmont)

This is Italy’s most famous vineyard: its name first appearing on a wine label in 1752. The Cannubi hill is a long tongue of land extending north-east to south-west and running along the town of Barolo at 250-320m altitude.

Wines made from grapes grown in different sections of Cannubi are strikingly different. The sub-zones are, from north to south: Cannubi Boschis, Cannubi, Cannubi Valletta, Cannubi San Lorenzo and Cannubi Muscatel.

Even the less experienced will have no trouble recognising that a Barolo from the central portion of the Cannubi vineyard (Cannubi proper) has a completely different, much lighter, tannic framework than those made with grapes grown in Cannubi Boschis or Cannubi Muscatel, which give bigger, fleshier wines due to a much higher clay content in the soil (the Cannubi sub-zone is much sandier). This sand content explains why its wines are especially fine in rainy vintages, as water drainage is never a problem.

Many fine estates make wines from the various sub-zones of Cannubi, like Sandrone (Cannubi Boschis); Chiara Boschis, Serio e Battista Borgogno and Chiarlo, Damilano (Cannubi); Ceretto (Cannubi San Lorenzo); and Cascina Bruciata (Cannubi Muscatel).

Other fine examples include Marchesi di Barolo (a blend of sub-zones), Francesco Rinaldi and Giacomo Fenocchio (mainly Cannubi Boschis). Last but certainly not least, Cannubi is one of the sources of grapes for Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Rinaldi, who make two of Barolo’s greatest wines but that don’t carry a specific vineyard designation.

3. Cartizze 

(Veneto)

The greatest grand cru in the homeland of Prosecco is the 105ha of vineyards on the steep (especially in its higher portions) Cartizze hill, rising from about 250-310m in altitude in San Pietro, Barbozza, in the township of Valdobbiadene.

At roughly €1m/ha (£790,000/ha), Cartizze is also the most expensive vineyard in Italy.

It’s a very special site of marl-limestone and compacted sand that allows the grapes long hang times – harvest often occurs a month later here than in other parts of the Prosecco production zone – giving wines of piercingly intense white peach, flower and ripe citrus aromas and flavours.

Look for wines by Bisol (whose family documents demonstrate their ownership of a piece of ‘Chartice’ since 1542), Drusian, Fratelli Bortolin and Silvano Follador.

4. Rosazzo

(Friuli-Venezia Giulia)

The Abbey of Rosazzo has had a link with viticulture and winemaking for 1,000 years, so you know its must be special – the abbey’s entire production was once reserved for Venice’s Doge.

Rosazzo has long been considered a grand cru for the Ribolla Gialla, Picolit and Friulano varieties. Its viticulture developed mainly in four valleys spreading out like a fan and converging towards the abbey.

The freshest microclimate is that of the south-east exposed valley that juts out from the town of Dolegnano. The valleys of Oleis – with a western exposure – and San Giovanni al Natisone are slightly warmer; warmer still is the valley of Case di Manzano.

Rosazzo is warm by Friuli standards, explaining why these grape varieties have always thrived there. Soils are the same in all the valleys, layers of marl and compacted sand called locally ponca, though there are also rare patches of clay and iron-rich loam.

5. Panzano

(Chianti Classico, Tuscany)

Panzano is a charming town at the northern end of Chianti Classico, just half an hour from Florence. It sits on a hill dividing the Pesa valley from the Greve valley. The Pesa side is characterised by broad, sunlit amphitheatres historically known as the ‘golden amphitheatre’, as Sangiovese has no trouble ripening there. Greve’s scenery is one of steeper and tighter, cooler-climate slopes.

Climate change has contributed to the transformation of Greve-side wines that were once very sleek, mineral and almost lean into fleshier ones; while the Pesa side’s rather dark, concentrated and tactile wines can be almost jammy in very hot years.

Panzano’s vines lie at 350m-450m, their roots digging deep in the gravelly limestone and shale soil (galestro alberese) that Sangiovese loves best. Great estates are numerous here, from Fontodi to Castello dei Rampolla.

6. Sesta

(Montalcino, Tuscany)

Brunello di Montalcino’s overly generous 2,000ha of vineyards include top-quality sites such as the famous Montosoli sub-zone (on the northern flank of the Montalcino hill) and Sesta, in the much warmer southern section.

Sesta (160ha) is unique among Montalcino’s southern sub-zones for a variety of reasons, the most important being the wind currents blowing along the Orcia river bed that lead to high diurnal temperature variations. This accounts for the sleek frames and noteworthy perfume of these Brunellos, despite Sesta’s southerly location.

There are three sections to the Sesta area: the highest – 350-450m – is characterised by nutrient-poor galestro shale soil and gives the most graceful wines of all.

The second, at 200-350m, has a gravelly component but also a much warmer microclimate, leading to fleshier wines.

The third Sesta sub-zone, at 150m-250m, is the low-lying portion that almost reaches the Orcia river, with mainly reddish, iron-rich alluvial sandy soils.

Great wines made by Tenuta di Sesta, Sesta di Sopra and Collosorbo are typical of the highest and middle Sesta sub-zones, while Piancornello and Agostina Pieri make superb wines exhibiting the more tactile, chewy mouthfeels deriving from Sesta’s reddish soils.

7. Lapio, Montefredane & Summonte

(Campania)

The most famous Fiano DOC wine, Fiano di Avellino, covers 26 townships and more than 400ha. Good Fiano wines are made all over Campania, but the variety’s grand cru sites are those of Lapio, Montefredane and Summonte.

Lapio, with vineyards as high as 600m, showcases wines of pure minerality and refreshing acidity, with green apple and hazelnut notes.

Summonte, much warmer, produces more powerful and concentrated but less mineral wines, often characterised by early onset of diesel fuel notes.

Montefredane has marly-clay soils with wines similar to Lapio’s, but less juicy fruit.

None of the wines from these areas are especially smoky – a trait which, despite what many would like you to believe, has more to do with winemaking and hot microclimates than Fiano itself.

8. Tufo

(Campania)

Tufo is where the best Greco wines are made – it’s no accident the DOC area and wine are named Greco di Tufo.

The grand cru vineyards are located around the towns all on the right bank of the Sabato river: Tufo, Santa Paolina and Montefusco.

Tufo’s soils are very poor (mainly chalky-clay), and vineyards are steep and hard to work.

Soils in Santa Paolina and Montefusco are richer in clay and in nutrients, and tend to give fuller-bodied, less fruity wines. But sunlight hours are high in the whole production area – important given Greco’s late-ripening nature.

Benito Ferrara’s wines showcase the heights attained in the Tufo sub-zone, while Cantina Bambinuto exemplifies Santa Paolina and Montefusco’s potential.

9. Vulture

(Basilicata)

The Vulture is an extinct volcano in Basilicata on which Aglianico vines reach heights that propel their wines to the level of Italy’s greatest Barolos and Brunellos.

Aglianico takes to volcanic areas like a duck to water, so it’s no surprise that Campania’s Taurasi and Taburno areas (two more extinct volcanos) are also spectacular sources of Aglianico wines.

I find Aglianico del Vulture combines the refinement and power of Taurasi with the freshness and grace of Taburno, while throwing its own ripe, fleshy dark red fruit in for good measure.

The production area is very large, actually extending far beyond the reaches of the volcanic lava. The epicentre is around the towns of Barile, Rionero and Ripacandida, at 400-600m, where dark soils are about as volcanic as they can get.

The lower-lying vineyards around Venosa and Maschito are planted on reddish soils richer in clay; these wines offer impeccable balance and riper, soft red fruit aromas and flavours, if not quite the flintiness and refinement of wines made from the mountaintop vineyards.

10. Etna

(Sicily)

Combine a unique microclimate, volcanic soils of different geologic origins, two red grapes (Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio) and one white (Carricante), all remarkably adapted to this specific terroir, and you understand why Etna Rosso and Etna Bianco are two of Italy’s hottest wines right now.

Terroir speaks loudly: Etna’s top white, Etna Bianco Superiore, can only be made with Carricante grown on the volcano’s eastern slope, where the most suitable growing conditions for the variety are found.

Clear-cut characteristics of individual vineyard sites also show in the reds. For example, Calderara Sottana yields mineral, flinty wines; Santo Spirito slightly softer, more accessible wines; and Feudo di Mezzo very fleshy, almost opulent wines.

Allowing Etna wine blends to be made with varieties such as Petit Verdot or Chardonnay – varieties that have no history on the volcano – was not the brightest of ideas.

Best Italian vineyards & terroirs – Ten wines to try:

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Piedmont new releases: Full report

The Barolo 2010 vintage is a keeper, and there's still time for the canny buyer to stock up. See our in-depth report below...

Originally published in Decanter magazine's April 2015 issue and now available online in full, exclusively for Premium members

• 134 Barolo 2010 wines submitted and tasted, with three rated Outstanding

• ‘Quality in the region is better than ever before, particularly at the lower levels,’ said our panel of Ian D’Agata, Michael Garner and Emily O’Hare

Barolo 2010 vintage summary:

Keep

Superb weather in late summer and September, giving slow ripening. The wines are vibrant and structured, with admirable tension and ageability. Marginally less successful in Barbaresco.

5/5

Scroll down to see the top wines from this panel tasting

With the major communes all faring well, plus a strong showing from most leading producers and some up-and-coming names, you can buy the 2010s with confidence, says Ian D’Agata…

Our results confirm Barolo 2010 as an above-average, at times even memorable vintage.

Those who like richer-bodied, fleshier Barolos tend to score the 2010s especially high; others who prefer slightly lower alcohol levels, more penetrating perfume and grace generally come away less impressed. Still, there is no denying that these wines performed admirably, with an impressive 55% of the wines in our tasting scoring 90 or above.

For the most part, all the well-known estates performed admirably, and it’s interesting to see that just about every commune produced wines of note, with each of the five major communes having a wine in the top 10.

Quick link See 133 tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

Top communes

Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d’Alba confirm themselves as Barolo sure bets, with a high overall average score.

Also, the superb showing of many Serralunga wines underscores why this commune is so popular. Given the generally warm year, it is not surprising that Serralunga (with higher limestone in its soils and partially cooler microclimates) allowed for wines with more penetrating, racier aromas and flavours.

Top producers

As for individual producers, this is not the first time that a wine from Brezza comes out on top in a Decanter panel tasting, and I dare say it won’t be the last either. Its wines are excellently made, balanced and pure.

Other Barolo notables also showed well, with wines from all the usual suspects proving sure buys: look out for Aldo Conterno, Andrea Oberto, Ceretto, Chiarlo, Francesco Rinaldi, Giacomo Fenocchio, Massolino, Paolo Scavino, Renato Ratti, Rocche dei Manzoni, Vietti and many others.

Wines from usually stellar producers like Boglietti, Bric Cenciurio, Cavallotto, Ciabot Berton, Cogno and Le Strette were less successful, probably due to too ripe aroma and flavour profiles that are not every taster’s preference. In this light it is interesting to note that Novello’s top two producers, Elvio Cogno and Le Strette, both produced very good wines but that slightly underperformed. Unfortunately, Sandrone’s single bottle sent for the tasting was hopelessly corked.

In fact, a negative aspect of this tasting was the high number of corked bottles – this was not the case in our panel tasting of 2009 Barolos.

But a very positive note (and one that was also evident in our 2009 tasting) is the increasingly high number of slightly less famous but extremely capable and/or promising estates making great wines: Cascina Adelaide, Attilio Ghisolfi, Bruna Grimaldi, Cascina Ballarin, Cascina Bongiovanni, Negretti, Rivetto, Serradenari, Sobrero and Tenuta Rocca were just some that shone. Without doubt, this bodes very well for Barolo’s future.

The scores

134 wines tasted

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2010 Barolos. Only one wine per producer was permitted.

3 Outstanding

71 Highly recommended

53 Recommended

6 Fair

0 Poor

1 Faulty

The results

Wine critics have heaped praise on the 2010 Barolos – so would they live up to their reputation here? The answer: a qualified yes, with high scores awarded. Amy Wislocki reports on the post-tasting discussion…

2010 is clearly an extremely good vintage for Barolo. Is it the best vintage of the century so far? Ian D’Agata would say not, though concedes that his is generally a minority view:

‘2010 is undoubtedly a very good year. But it has been touted as a possible vintage of the century and in that context, for me, it fails. Granted, there are some spectacular wines, but there are also a bunch of wines that disappointed with syrupy, super-ripe aromas and flavours, and little of the floral, red rose characteristics that you look for in Barolo.’

D’Agata went on to criticise the high alcohol level of many wines – ‘We tasted 134, and only four of them were 13.5% or less’ – and the astringent tannins of others – ‘The tannins may be more prominent at the moment because the fruit is muted, but some of the tannins are distinctly green,’ he observed.

‘The vintage has enjoyed the same level of hype as 2000 and 2004,’ continued D’Agata, ‘and while both of those were also very good – even excellent – neither is a vintage of the century. I’d choose 2001 or 2006 over any of them.

‘2008 is also a classic vintage, with some great wines, but has gone under the radar for some reason.’

Michael Garner was more positive about 2010. ‘These are tremendous wines, with an amazing freshness and a fine acid balance. I think the vintage just about deserves the praise that has been heaped on it. Perhaps they’re showing slightly less well than the 2009s were at this stage last year, but I think the 2010s have longer legs and will continue to develop for far longer. I’m a big fan of the vintage.’

Garner also praised the evolution of the region in general: ‘Barolo production has doubled over the past 25 years, and that would usually come at the expense of quality. But, on the contrary, today’s tasting has shown that quality is better than ever, and that’s particularly noticeable at the lower levels.’

It was the typicity of the wines that won Emily O’Hare over. ‘You could understand the Nebbiolo grape immediately when you tasted these 2010s,’ she said. ‘They showed an attractive classicism, despite the high alcohol, and there was a clarity to the wines – nothing opaque in the glass, which was a relief.’

The tasters all agreed that the wines were going through a ‘difficult’ or ‘dumb’ phase, described poetically by O’Hare as a ‘wave of quietness’. So when will they be at their best?

Drinkability

O’Hare found a refreshing readiness to drink in general. ‘Yes, I might enjoy them more in three to five years’ time, and some will go 10 years or more, but there’s a jubilance and joyousness to them in youth that would make them great to drink now, especially with food.’

‘What impresses me about Nebbiolo is its high level of drinkability over a sustained period,’ said Garner. ‘I think 2010 will hit a peak of drinkability in around 2020, and from then onwards we will be looking at some very special wines.

‘They have the right level of tannins and acidity, matched on the whole by body and substance.’

D’Agata agreed, suggesting that some wines might even be ready to drink in 2018. ‘I’d drink most before 2030, except for the best, which could go to 2045.’

In terms of communes, both Serralunga and Castiglione Falletto earned praise. ‘We tend to forget about the latter, but it is consistently high scoring,’ said Garner. ‘It’s a great introduction to Barolo too, as it’s geographically in the centre of the region and boasts aspects of the other communes.’

Serralunga is on the rise, and has the bonus of being the only commune with a lot of limestone in the soil,’ added D’Agata. Both are worth special attention in 2010.

Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting:

Ian D’Agata

At the time of this tasting D’Agata was a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and was named Italy’s best wine journalist 2012 by the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia. He is an award-winning author of The Ecco Guide to the Best Wines of Italy, and The Native Wine Grapes of Italy.

‘Serralunga stole the show since the wines had better acidity and more precise flavours, thanks to generally cooler sites and limestone in the soils. Castiglione Falletto also confirmed its role as the commue that provides the most balanced of all Barolos (there was a noteworthy high overall standard and a level consistency in the wines we tasted).

‘Many wines from La Morra, Barolo, Monforte and other communes were overripe and high in alcohol.

‘With just four wines at 13.5% alcohol or less, it is clear to see that 2010 is a hot vintage with all that entails. Many have touted it as exceptional and, while good, I think this vintage will fall into a category that includes 1997 and 2004: highly touted at the outset but then critically re-evaluated over the following years. Very good years all, but vintages of the century? Hardly.

‘If Decanter readers want a truly great bottle of Barolo, perfumed and precise, from a recent vintage, go for 2001, 2006 and even 2008 which are all beautifully classic.’

Giovanni Rosso, Cerretta, Serralunga d’Alba 2010

This Barolo is a paragon of Nebbiolo from Serralunga (sour red cherry, raspberry, high acid, steely tannins and very ageworthy), and a great spot for the still relatively unknown but top-quality Cerretta vineyard. 96/100 Drink 2019-2040

Massolino, Parafada, Seralunga d’Alba 2010

Though Massolino is most famous for his great Vigna Rionda bottling, the Parafada rarely misses a beat, offering a typical Serralunga deep, brooding personality and lots of Nebbiolo purity and perfume. Very ageworthy. 94 Drink 2019-2040

Cordero di Montezemolo, Bricco Gattera, La Morra 2010

There are sexier names in Barolo, but Cordero di Montezemolo is one of the most dependable, solid producers in the region. Its entry-level Monfalletto is always outstanding (a sure sign of care and competence), while this super-premium Bricco Gattera is made from the best grapes from the top, and finest, part of the La Morra hill. 92 Drink 2018-2030

Michael Garner

Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is the co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses, writes and judges for Decanter and has taught for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust.

‘Time alone will tell just how good the 2010 vintage is. Whether it will turn out to be the vintage of the century so far is already open to debate: after the recent release of the excellent 2011s, there will still be another eight vintages to consider (some of which, 2013 for example, already promise great things.)

‘There is no doubt, however, that 2010 can be rated as very good to excellent. On the whole the wines show excellent freshness with very good levels of acidity, firm but ripe tannins and quite high alcohol levels. At the moment they have entered a slightly dumb phase and are less forthcoming in terms of aroma than they were last autumn. But I am convinced that they will come round fairly quickly and show the full breadth and depth of aroma that earlier tastings promised.

‘Despite this being a difficult phase for the wines, 96% of them came in at Recommended and above, and will provide excellent medium- to long-term drinking. Were I to be really picky, I might raise a slight doubt about their intensity of fruit and therefore their ultimate long-term future, but we’re splitting hairs here: 2010 is a lovely vintage which is well worth investing in.’

Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo 2010

A richly deserved Outstanding score. Enzo Brezza has transformed this estate, introducing organic methods to realise the full potential of some excellently sited vineyards. This Sarmassa 2010 is a beautifully aromatic wine which should age well. 95/100 Drink 2018-2030

Massolino, Parafada, Seralunga d’Alba 2010

Serralunga is the hot commune in Barolo, and Massolino one of the best producers. This Parafada is a rich and intense, fullerbodied style of Barolo which combines power and precision. 95 Drink 2019-2040

Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio, Castiglione Falletto 2010

Castiglione Falletto is the smallest of the major Barolo producing communes, yet the wines showed remarkable consistency here. Sobrero is an up-and-coming name producing ripe, juicy, balanced and drinkable Barolo. 93 Drink 2017-2030

Emily O’Hare

O’Hare left her role as head sommelier/wine buyer at London’s River Café to take part in the 2014 harvest at estates in Tuscany, Campania and Piedmont. She is co-founder of the London Wine Sessions festivals, as well as a wine judge, educator and freelancer writer. She lives in Florence where, at the time of this tasting, she was studying to become an Italian Ambassador of Wine at the Vinitaly International Academy.

‘If ever there was a vintage to draw in new fans to Nebbiolo (or tempt lovers of Pinot Noir away), then 2010 is the year: these Barolos are transparent and bright in colour, with complex aromas that are floral, exuberantly fruity and exotically spicy, and base notes of fresh meat.

‘But it is the nature and quality of the tannins that really mark this vintage out. The tannins are expectedly high but do not dominate the impression of the wine – instead they are supple and supporting and, in many cases, unexpectedly soft.

‘Having worked in restaurants, I know that customers have an impression of Barolo as this rather intimidating, full-bodied, full-on, powerful red that is best drunk at least 10 years after bottling.

‘But with the 2010s such impressions can be challenged – the wines really can be enjoyed now. They smell and taste thrillingly pure and, although full flavoured, they are medium-bodied with satisfying (not scary!) tannins. 2010 is a Barolo vintage to woo with!’

Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo 2010

From a 2.5ha parcel of vines bordering La Morra, this wine is utterly beautiful, scented and finely tuned. The wine to pit against any grand cru Burgundy. The Brezzas say that it is best nine to 10 years after the harvest. 95/100 Drink 2018-2030

Aldo Conterno, Bussia, Monforte d’Alba 2010

The Conterno family has been making wine since the 1700s and its wines reflect those generations of expertise. Aged for over two years in large Slavonian oak, the tannins support, the acidity refreshes and the fruit is glorious. 94 Drink 2018-2035

Ferdinando Principiano, Serralunga d’Alba 2010

Fragrant and fresh, winemaker Ferdinando Principiano says this is the most immediate of the Barolos he produces. Made from the ‘younger’ vines – 25 years old! – in his Boscareto vineyard, it shows a very sensitive side to Serralunga. 93 Drink 2019-2040

About Barolo

Barolo has never been better, and a seemingly endless run of successful vintages should help it conquer new markets and generations of wine lovers.

Aside from the rain-plagued 2002 and incredibly hot 2003 vintage, there have been nothing but above-average, classic or outstanding years since 1999, and 2010 looks to be one of the best of recent times.

The year began with a snowy winter that guaranteed lots of water reserves – a good thing given the high average temperatures of April and May, and especially of the last part of August and September.

This led to very ripe, sugar-rich grapes, and most 2010 Barolos are not shy about their high octane levels. If the high temperatures caused Barolo’s magical floral perfume to get lost in some 2010s, the wines do present a creamy charm and a ripe, fruity personality that makes them easier to approach when young.

It also means that the wines will probably evolve slightly faster than some other vintages, like 2001 or 2006.

Comparisons with Burgundy

When well made, Barolo is one of the world’s truly great wines, characterised by a perfume of roses, violets, sweet spices, minerals and sour red cherry, and an uncommon blend of powerful tannins yet delicate flavours similar to the aromas. Barolo is also one of the world’s most ageworthy wines (a well kept 1947 or 1961 Barolo is unforgettable), so it’s easy to understand why many wine lovers and collectors hold it in such high esteem.

Another plus is that Barolo, much like red Burgundy (to which it is often compared) is very site-specific, with evident differences between the communes.

Generally speaking, wines from La Morra and Barolo, with their magnesium- and manganese-rich soils, develop faster and are drinkable at five to eight years from the vintage (though wines from great vintages will easily keep 40 years or more).

Those from Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba are slower to develop, given their harder soils, and are best opened eight to 15 years from the vintage; clearly, they can live even longer when cellared well.

Other less well known communes that are producing wonderful wines are Novello (similar to those from Serralunga and Monforte) and Verduno, where wines from the extremely high quality Monvigliero cru are starting to turn heads.

Just like with Burgundy, it pays to know the names of the most dependable producers. Though the astringently hard, brutally tannic wines devoid of fruit and flesh are mainly a thing of the past, some poor Barolos are still being made.

Such Barolos are most often light-bodied, quickly maturing wines with little depth or concentration of perfume and fruit. That said, those who still think that Barolos are tough and unenjoyable simply don’t know enough about the wine or the producers.

One last word: as Barolo is 100% Nebbiolo, it will never be pitch black in colour; it is light to medium-dark garnet. Never make the mistake of thinking that the deep, inky wines are the best.

Wine lovers can turn confidently to the 2010 Barolos, just as they could to the lovely 2009 and classic 2008s before them. There are many great bottles to choose from.

Barolo: the facts

Total hectares 1,800ha

Annual production 12,000,000 bottles

Production area 11 communes in the DOCG; 85% of wine coming from Barolo, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. Other communes are: Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, Novello, Roddi and Verduno.

Production guidelines 100% Nebbiolo. Must be aged at least two years in oak and at least one year in bottle before release. Riservas are aged five years, with at least three in oak.

Barolo: know your vintages

Written by Stephen Brook

1996 5*

Storms and cool spells meant the summer was imperfect, but a fine September brought full ripeness. Excellent in Barbaresco. Robust, structured wines with high acidity the long haul. Drink or keep

1997 3.5*

A hot and precocious summer led to some overripeness, though fresher in Barbaresco. Plump wines with immediate appeal, but limited structure. Drink up

1998 4*

A hot summer and cool September, but the grapes did ripen, although the wines are tannic and sturdy. Keep

1999 4.5*

A fine vintage despite some September rains. Elegant and balanced wines with ageing potential. Drink or keep

2000 4*

A hot late summer led to very ripe wines with moderate acidity and some jamminess. Appealing but initially overrated. Drink up

2001 5*

After a hot summer, a cool September slowed ripening. Those who waited made superbly structured wines with excellent balance. Drink or keep

2002 1.5*

Hail after a poor August damaged grapes. Only the most selective growers made decent wines. Drink up

2003 2.5*

Intense summer heat, although refreshed by late August rains, led to super-ripe wines high in alcohol. Many cooked and dry wines. Drink up

2004 4*

A mild summer was followed by a dry autumn, yielding fruity wines with immediate appeal. But they have evolved fast. Drink up

2005 4*

The cool August and some autumn rains made this a tricky vintage, but the best wines, especially from Barbaresco, are fresh and lively. Drink or keep

2006 5*

A tricky growing season but a classic year, delivering bold, tannic, and sometimes austere wines that will repay cellaring. Keep

2007 4*

Warm weather led to an early harvest of fruity grapes with fairly low acidity. Many delicious wines, best enjoyed young. Drink or keep

2008 5*

A difficult summer with some hail, but September was fine. Wines with firm tannins that require ageing. Excellent in La Morra. Keep

2009 4.5*

A hot year, delivering lush succulent wines, but with moderate acidity. Can already be enjoyed for their abundant fruitiness. Drink or keep

2010 5*

Superb weather in late summer and September, giving slow ripening. The wines are vibrant and structured, with admirable tension and ageability. Marginally less successful in Barbaresco. Keep

2011 4.5*

Hot humid conditions led to wines that are ripe and sumptuous, but already beginning to drink well. Excellent wines from Barbaresco. Drink or keep

2012 3*

Hail and sunburn were just some of the problems this year, and growers had to respond adroitly in the vineyards. Some fine wines, but others are soft and forward. Drink or keep

2013 4.5*

A cool summer and an abundant crop that need to be thinned to achieve full ripeness. A year of fragrant, elegant wines that are now gaining in structure. Keep

2014 4*

After a stormy summer, a fine September saved the vintage, although hail did much damage. Yet top growers produced fine, elegant wines. Better in Barbaresco. Keep

2015 5*

Torrid July but cooler, moister conditions in August and September brought the grapes to ripeness, especially in Barbaresco. A small crop of charming wines. Keep

2016 4.5*

Very warm weather in early September and October fully ripened the grapes, which remained healthy. Potentially excellent.

Top Barolo 2010 wines from the panel tasting:

See 133 wines from the panel tasting

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Gaja Barbaresco crus: Costa Russi & Sorì San Lorenzo verticals

Michaela Morris gets a fascinating insight into the future plans of this historic winery and reports on a tasting of vintages going back to the 1930s...

‘We changed everything to change nothing,’ says winemaker Andrea Farinetti, revelling in the paradox.

Beneath the sleepy streets of the Barolo township, we are in Borgogno’s modest tasting room deep within the original cellars. To demonstrate his vision for the future, Farinetti takes me back into the past by opening up a vertical of Borgogno’s Barolo Riserva back to 1937.

Scroll down to see Michaela’s tasting notes & scores

Make-up of Borgogno Barolo Riserva

Until 2008, this wine was crafted from the year’s best vats, incorporating the following crus within the commune of Barolo:

• San Pietro delle Viole
• Cannubi San Lorenzo
• Cannubi
• Liste
• Fossati

Since 2008, the wine has been made from a blend of specific parcels within the last three sites exclusively.

‘The high component of sand and silt in Fossati imparts finesse and elegance, while Liste is very similar to the vineyards of Serralunga, giving structure and power,’ explains Farinetti. Cannubi has elements of both, while also providing flesh that animates the whole.

This tasting

For the more contemporary vintages, Farinetti wanted to compare hotter years to cooler ones, pairing 1997 and 1998 as well as 2003 and 2004.

While 1997 has the stuffing to last longer, I favoured the elegance from the warmer year of 1998. In the second pair, the cooler 2004 was superior, with lots of life left versus the excessively hot 2003, which has already peaked.

The only wine in the lineup made by 28-year-old Farinetti is the 2011. It represents a transition, because much of his modifications to the winemaking have occurred since then. The cellar was revamped two years ago and the vineyards have been in conversion to organic viticulture since 2015.

The star of the lineup was the 1982. While it won’t actually improve with further cellaring, this still has plenty of stamina.

The 1961 had the edge over 1978, having aged more harmoniously, but neither are in danger of falling apart imminently. My preference is to drink both now.

As for 1937, this riveting museum piece whispered profoundly of its past. These precious time capsules are for enthusiasts who truly enjoy well-aged wines.

Continue reading below

Borgogno history

One of the region’s most historic companies, Borgogno traces its roots back to 1761. The company grew in reputation under Cesare Borgogno, who assumed the mantle in 1920.

When Cesare passed away in 1968, he left the winery to his niece, Ida Boschis and her husband Franco. Their sons continued running the property until the Farinetti family, owners of the Eataly food empire, acquired it in 2008.

Oscar Farinetti’s son, Andrea, has been in charge since completing his winemaking studies at Alba’s Scuolo Enologica in 2010.

Winemaking

Having interned with the Boschis brothers until then, Andrea Farinetti tells me that ‘fundamentally our philosophy is the same – maintaining the real tradition of the Langhe.’

This is represented partially by continuing with long macerations and ageing in large Slavonian oak casks. However, Farinetti has also reintroduced spontaneous fermentations with wild yeasts and replaced the stainless steel with cement vats, one of which was restored from Cesare Borgogno’s tenure.

‘1982 was one of the last wines made in this manner,’ he asserts. ‘When I tried it, I fell in love and wanted to make a wine like that.’

Borgogno’s wines of the last century were notoriously hard to approach in their youth.

This doesn’t seem to be the direction of the future. Farnetti is working toward wines that are immediately harmonious and elegant. Whether they will be able to survive decades, only time will tell. What is evident is that under Farinetti, Borgogno has a dynamic new lease of life.

Borgogno: Fact file

Established: 1761

Purchased by the Farinetti family: 2008

Total production: 225,000 bottles

Total Barolo vineyard holdings: 10ha

Total Barolo production: 65,000 bottles

Total Barolo Riserva production: 10,000 bottles

Anticipated organic certification: 2019

Borgogno Barolo Riserva: tasted

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These wines are hard to beat in terms of value-for-money, says Michaela Morris, who tastes eight vintages of Produttori's Ovello Barbaresco Riserva and gives her view on which years to look for.

‘We didn’t have weeks this hot in June when I was a kid,’ recalls Aldo Vacca, managing director of Barbaresco cooperative, Produttori del Barbaresco.

‘This is doing something to the wine.’ Temperatures when I visit are well into the 30s and it feels more like late July than mid-June.

Inside Produttori’s headquarters, the air-conditioned tasting room offers some reprieve. It looks out toward the western side of the Ovello cru – the crux of my visit.

At almost 80ha, this is the largest Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (MGA) within the commune of Barbaresco, encompassing different exposures from west to east. The calcareous soil is uniformly rich in clay, a high proportion which ‘always gives tannins that are aggressive in their youth,’ explains Vacca.

Scroll down to see Michaela’s tasting notes & scores

As one of the northernmost MGAs, it is influenced by the cool northern winds in spring which delay bud-break by up to 15 days with respect to sites like Asili.

‘In very warm years, Ovello gives better results because it retains a beautiful acidity and freshness,’ Vacca continues.

While the late, great Italian wine journalist Luigi Veronelli didn’t deem Ovello outstanding alongside Asili and Montestefano, he did categorise it as excellent, equivalent to Rabajà and Martinega.For Produttori, it’s a particularly significant cru. Twelve of the cooperative’s 54 members own vineyards here, making up 20 of Produttori’s 105ha total. It was also one of the original five single vineyard Riserva bottlings they launched in 1967 – today there are nine.

Tasting Ovello

Vacca has prepared a vertical of every vintage of Ovello made between 2004 and 2014. Tastings like this are rare, even for him: demand for Produttori’s wines is high and the cooperative doesn’t retain much of a library.

As we taste through the lineup, I remind Vacca of the 1978 Montestefano we shared over lunch in September 2007. At almost 30 years old, that bottle became my reference for the ageability of top Barbaresco.

‘The wines of the new millennium are ageing a bit faster,’ he responds. ‘It isn’t the way we are making wine – that hasn’t changed; it’s just the environment we are living in.’

Vacca posits a correspondence between increased heat early in the season and earlier maturing wines.

He also suggests the influence of lower yielding clones which have been planted over the last 25 years. He explains that, in their youth, the wines of the previous century were less elegant, with green tannins which demanded time.

‘Now I am not sure about waiting 30 years for Barolo or Barbaresco,’ he states. Instead, he recommends drinking Barbaresco eight to 12 years from harvest, or 15 to 20 if you are willing to gamble.

Based on this tasting, I would save a bottle of the 2008 Ovello until 2038 just to challenge Vacca’s theory. The 2013 is also a contender for long-term cellaring.

While the other vintages in the vertical may not be as long-lived, none were over the hill.

Besides being particularly taken by the 2008 and 2013, I would happily drink 2005 and 2004 now. And despite the 2009’s imbalance, its personality absolutely charmed me – more so than the 2007, which is more technically correct.

Produttori del Barbaresco’s wines always impress with their exceptional value for money. At the risk of sacrificing my own allocation, I am going on the record saying that these wines should be in every savvy collector’s cellar.

Tasting Ovello Riserva:

Produttori del Barbaresco: Factfile

Founded 1958

Number of members 54

Total ha controlled 105ha (Barbaresco total 751ha)

Average number of bottles/year 600,000

Total ha Ovello controlled 20ha (Ovello total 78.44ha)

Average number of bottles/year Ovello 17,160 & 1,420 magnums

First year of Ovello 1967

Altitude 160-275 msl

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Gaja Barbaresco crus: Costa Russi & Sorì San Lorenzo verticals

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Stephen Brook recently visited Gaja's estate in Barbaresco, where he tasted verticals of their Costa Russi and Sorì San Lorenzo crus...

Angelo Gaja has never had much time for conventional wisdom. He introduced barriques to age part of his Barbaresco in 1978, some years before a group of Barolo modernists followed his example.

At about the same time, he began planting international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon out of curiosity to see whether they worked in the Langhe, and because he thought it would help him to penetrate the American market, which knew little about Barbaresco at the time.

Scroll down to see Stephen’s tasting notes & scores from two vertical tastings at the estate

Angelo bought the three vineyards that would become his cru Barbarescos in the mid-1960s, when single vineyard wines were a fairly novel concept. It’s worth noting that at this time Gaja was already the best known estate in Barbaresco, charging higher prices than neighbouring properties, so Angelo felt he could experiment and innovate without too much risk.

Derestricted

What really took the wine world by surprise was his decision with the 1996 vintage to downgrade his three crus to the simple Langhe appellation. Having shaken off the DOCG rulebook, he was free to add about 5% of Barbera to give the wines a tad more colour, acidity and staying power.

When I asked him about this decision in 2007, he insisted his main motivation was not the freedom to blend in other varieties but to elevate the status of his blended Barbaresco, which came from 14 different vineyards. A wine of exceptional quality, it was being slighted as wine critics and importers showered praise on the scarcer and more expensive cru wines.

Restoration

However, with the 2013 vintage his daughter Gaia, increasingly in charge of the business by now, took the decision to restore the crus as Barbaresco bottlings, thereby eliminating any varieties other than Nebbiolo from the blend. Her father appears to have accepted and respected her decision.

The crus

Gaja produce three single vineyard Barbarescos: Sorì Tildin, Costa Russi and Sorì San Lorenzo. In May 2018, Gaia Gaja presented verticals of the latter two at their estate.

Costa Russi consists of 4.3ha at an altitude of 230 metres, facing southwest on relatively heavy clay-limestone soils. By 2017 the vines were 75 years old, so they were replanted horizontally at a density of 5,700 vines per hectare in preference to the previous 4,200 vines per hectare. This vineyard has always been the estate’s primary source of Nebbiolo massal selections. Gaia considers Costa Russi to be the most fresh and floral of their Barbaresco crus.

Sorì San Lorenzo produces more tannic wines, and Angelo once told me that it was the most austere of his crus. It’s a site of 3.4ha, and the vines have an average age of some forty years. Only the top part of the vineyard is destined to be bottled as a cru wine.

Until 2008 the crus were partly aged in 120hl casks, but subsequent vintages were aged for 12 months in one-third new barriques, followed by a further 12 months in smaller casks.

Like all the Gaja Barbarescos, they combine force with elegance, and generally show a bit more richness and power than equivalent wines from other producers. They age superbly, and while some vintages can be broached young, these are structured wines intended to be cellared.

Gaja Barbaresco crus: two verticals

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Great value Nebbiolo wines from Piedmont – Under the radar

Stephen Brook provides individual reports on the latest releases from Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero, with tasting notes and scores for more than 170 wines...

The great Nebbiolo wines of this Italian region have an avid following, so the release of new Piedmont vintages always generates some excitement – and occasionally some disappointment.

The starting gun is triggered at an event in Alba now known as Nebbiolo Prima. It’s not an official launch, but is the first opportunity for the press and sommeliers to taste the new releases of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero at a leisurely pace.

 Scroll down to see Stephen’s Piedmont reports

Go straight to the reports published so far: 

• Barbaresco 2015 & Riserva 2013: Latest releases

• Barolo 2014 vintage report and tasting notes

Quick link: View Stephen’s tasting notes & scores for all 172 wines included in the report

Nebbiolo Prima is a blind tasting, and its sole drawback is the sheer number of wines to be tasted, varying from 70 to 90 each day, amounting to a total of over 300 bottles. With very few exceptions, the wines will have been bottled only a few months previously.

Since there’s no official launch, importers, merchants and the estates themselves are free to release the wines commercially whenever they choose – thus, in the tasting report that follows, the majority of wines will have been tasted at Nebbiolo Prima in May 2018, but others will have been sampled at the producer’s estate or at importers’ tastings earlier in the year.

Like any tasting report, this doesn’t claim to be definitive. There were instances of some bottle variation, so wines were retasted when possible to give them the benefit of the doubt. Nor do all producers participate in Nebbiolo Prima, which has its own terms and conditions that some wineries decline to sign up to. Nevertheless, this report does offer a generous cross-section of wines from across the region.

Piedmont new release reports:

Barolo 2014 vintage report and tasting notes 

 Barbaresco 2015 & Riserva 2013: Latest releases

Barolo 2012 Riserva: Top rated wines 

Roero 2015 & Riserva 2014: Latest releases

Coming soon:

Barolo Riserva 2012 

Roero 2015 & Riserva 2014

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See our Piedmont vintage guide here: Updated in 2018

Stephen Brook takes a look at the latest releases from Roero, including tasting notes & scores...

Roero, being just the other side of the Tanaro river from Barolo and Barbaresco, enjoyed – or suffered from – similar climatic conditions as the two better known zones.

2015 offered a very hot summer and very ripe wines, delivering wines with immediate appeal and considerable ageing potential. Daniela Tibaldi is one of a number of producers, however, who believes that 2016 will be even better.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Roero tasting notes & scores from this report

2014 was more problematic.

Roero was largely free of frost and hail, but the summer was cool and cloudy. This lack of sunshine slowed the ripening, and in many cases the Nebbiolo wasn’t harvested until late October.

Although some perfectly good wines were made from a small crop, it was not the kind of vintage normally earmarked for Riserva wines – on the other hand, the slight austerity of the vintage may work in favour of wines crafted to show more density and structure.

The main problem for Roero is not climatic, but the reluctance of many producers to validate the appellation. It is perfectly legal to label a Nebbiolo as Langhe Nebbiolo – Barolo-based producers such as Sandrone have long done so and see no reason to change.

Thus although the potential production of Roero is 1.5 million bottles, in reality only 500,000 bottles are declared as such. This reduces the visibility of this DOCG, and robs Roero of some of the renown which it does indeed deserve.

Stephen’s pick of Roero 2015 & Roero Riserva 2014:

Back to our Piedmont new releases homepage

Stephen Brook takes a look at the latest vintage of Barolo Riserva to be released. Read on for tasting notes and scores...

Barolo Riserva 2012

Drink or keep

Sunburn and hail were just some of the problems this year, and growers had to respond adroitly in the vineyards. Some fine wines, but others are soft and forward.

4/5

2012 was an inconsistent vintage, complicated by a cool and rainy spring, sporadic summer hailstorms, and rainfall in late August and early September.

Variable weather in the spring had led to an uneven flowering, which complicated the vintage and required growers to be vigilant and attentive in the vineyard. There were periods of intense heat, and there were reports of sunburn in some exposed vineyards.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barolo Riserva 2012 tasting notes

Hail did the greatest damage in La Morra and Barolo, however the naturally thick Nebbiolo skins allowed many of the bunches to emerge unscathed.

Overall quality was good but not exceptional, and the grapes reached proper ripeness after improving weather in September. The wines are generally juicy and accessible, although growers that didn’t harvest the uneven crop scrupulously may have picked some bunches with aggressive tannins.

Although it wasn’t a vintage that would seem to result in a profusion of Riservas, the decision to produce one is often based on localised factors, and there are certainly some excellent results. Tastings of regular Barolos from this vintage in 2018 suggested the wines were evolving quite fast, but Riservas are of course in a different category, with intrinsically more weight and density.

Stephen’s pick of Barolo Riserva 2012

Back to Piedmont new releases: Full report

Stephen Brook reports on the tricky 2014 vintage in this renowned appellation. Read on for his top recommendations, plus dozens more tasting notes and scores...

Barolo 2014 at a glance:

Keep

After a stormy summer, a fine September saved the vintage, although hail did much damage. Yet top growers produced fine, elegant wines. Better in Barbaresco.

4/5

For growers in the Barolo zone, 2014 would offer a summer of anxiety. Although spring was early, there was little frost. Temperatures were normal in early summer, but there were some spells of localised rain.

In late July, when rainfall was particularly fierce, some vineyards were drenched, while a couple of kilometres away the vines received a mere sprinkling.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barolo 2014 tasting notes

On high alert

The combination of warmth and humidity put great demands on growers, who had to be constantly on the lookout for outbreaks of disease, mildew especially, which had to be fought with timely spraying. Poorly ventilated or overcropped vineyards suffered most.

Conditions improved in the second half of September and into October, with warm days but cool nights. Hail was minimal, mostly confined to Serralunga. Interestingly, despite these difficulties Serralunga seems to have delivered many of the best wines this year.

Yields were generally low, as reported by Roberto Voerzio, who had hail in some vineyards, and Elio Altare, who lost 60% of the crop.

Dr Francesco Baravalle at Elvio Cogno summed up the demanding vintage: ‘You had to work hard in the vineyard to manage leaves and bunches to get the best exposure. You had to work constantly in summer because of the humidity. You also had to sort at harvest.’

How growers responded in this tricky year:

While some growers, such as Giacomo Fenocchio, Boglietti and Paolo Scavino, made their full range of wines, others had to make some big decisions.

Cavallotto declassified all their Barolo to Langhe Nebbiolo (although, mysteriously, some websites seem to be offering some of their 2014 Barolos for sale!).

Others had to pass on some of their cru wines because the crop was too low to justify a separate bottling. Gianluca Grasso says that although the end of the season was fine, it wasn’t good enough for him to produce any of his single vineyard wines, so he blended all the grapes into a single generic Barolo.

Giacomo Conterno says it was crucial to wait into October for full phenolic ripeness, which many growers were reluctant to do, preferring to pick early. Conterno picked selectively, as did some others. Although costly, this helped to eliminate sub-standard fruit.

Exposition and drainage in this hilly region often forced growers into picking earlier than they would have liked, however. Enrico Rivetto, while not dissatisfied with the quality of his wines, wished he could have waited another ten days for more complete ripening, but mid-October rains meant delay was impossible.

Early reports of the poor summer persuaded many journalists to write off the vintage, but it’s clear that many very good wines were made – mostly by leading producers with the means to be highly selective.

Marco Marengo summarised: ‘In Barolo, this was a winemaker’s vintage because of all the decisions that had to be made. You couldn’t leave anything to chance.’

Variation

What makes it a challenging vintage for consumers is the variation in style and quality. Even within a single producer’s portfolio, single-vineyard bottlings can range from the alluring to the humdrum.

Mario Andrion, winemaker at Castello di Verduno, noted that the rain led to thin skins for the Nebbiolo, so long macerations weren’t possible. This led to a lack of extraction and density.

Some winemakers reduced the ageing period in casks for fear of drying out the wine, yet Vittore Alessandria of Fratelli Alessandria points out that polyphenol and tannin levels were surprisingly high.

While some wines show astringency and leanness, the best have aroma, purity of fruit, fine acidity and enough structure to ensure medium-term ageing. It’s not a great or immensely ripe vintage, but it shouldn’t be underestimated.

Some wines can be broached within a year or two and will give great pleasure; others will surely improve over the next 5-10 years. Only a handful of wines will benefit from extended cellaring.

It would be advisable to purchase and taste a single bottle before splashing out on a case, so striking are the variations in quality. And the wines need to be offered at sensible prices, especially with the more promising 2015s waiting in the wings. 

Stephen’s top picks of Barolo 2014:

An update of Stephen’s Barolo 2014 preview, published in late 2017

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Stephen Brook takes a look at the latest releases from Barbaresco, including tasting notes & scores...

Released a year ahead of Barolo, the latest releases from this appellation are Barbaresco 2015 and Barbaresco Riserva 2013.

Barbaresco 2015

Keep

A hot July, with cooler conditions in August, including some rain, and good weather in September brought the grapes to ripeness, especially in Barbaresco. A ‘reasonably copious vintage of excellent grapes.’

5/5

A wet and snowy winter ensured that water levels in the vineyards were generous, which assisted early growth in 2015. Temperatures were mild and although the weather was less ideal in the late spring, flowering was successful.

The summer that followed was hot, indeed scorching in July, and to some extent this slowed the ripening process. Although the heat was steady, with average temperatures higher than they had been in the torrid year of 2003, there were no heat spikes to burn the vines. Nonetheless, veraison was some two weeks earlier than in 2014.

August provided some cooler nights and also some rain towards the end of the month. This reduced the drought stress, and good weather continued into September, with the Nebbiolo achieving full ripeness. Without those beneficial rains, it’s quite likely that 2015 would have produced wines as overripe as the 2003s.

Harvest was relatively early. In contrast to the rollercoaster of 2014, Barbaresco growers found themselves with a reasonably copious vintage of excellent grapes. There was some rain in late September, but by that time most of the grapes had been picked.

Here, as is so often the case, Barbaresco had the advantage over the later-ripening vineyards of much of the Barolo zone – Castello di Verduno reported that quality was so high in the Rabajà cru that the entire crop will become a Riserva.

Some acidities may be lower than usual, suggesting that a forward and approachable vintage along the lines of 2007 or 2009 is probable. There’s also the suggestion from some camps that 2015 could be as splendid as 2010 – Gaia Gaja finds the 2015s have complexity as well as fruit, and that the single vineyard bottlings clearly show their individual characters.

Quick link: See all of Stephen’s Barbaresco latest release tasting notes

Barbaresco Riserva 2013

Keep

A cool summer and an abundant crop that needed to be thinned to achieve full ripeness. A year of fragrant, elegant wines that are now gaining in structure.

4.5/5

As a vintage, 2013 had initially been underestimated, as the growing season had been fairly cool. However, from mid-September conditions improved, with hot days and cool nights meaning there was no pressure to harvest rapidly, enabling growers to wait for optimal maturity.

The wines were subtle and perfumed, but recent tastings have revealed more structure than was apparent at first. Some wines may lack richness but compensate with their purity and elegance. The only fly in the ointment was that downy mildew in the spring had reduced the crop.

The best wines have gained in weight and complexity, but whether 2013 will emerge as a truly great vintage, rather than just very good, it remains too early to say. No doubt it will depend on the capriciousness of individual sites, as well as the farming and winemaking decisions of individual growers.

Stephen’s pick of latest release Barbarescos:

Back to Piedmont new releases: Full report

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