Nestled on the highest gravel terrace in the heart of Sauternes, overlooking rolling golden slopes and neighbouring icons like Château d’Yquem, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey is more than a Premier Grand Cru Classé estate – it’s a serene, transformative escape where history, luxury and the art of living converge.

The property’s roots stretch back over 400 years, with viticulture documented as early as 1618 under Sieur Raymond Peyraguey. Classified as a First Growth in the legendary 1855 ranking, it has long produced some of the world’s most revered sweet wines, born from the magical interplay of morning mists from the Ciron river and the noble rot that concentrates the grapes’ essence.

Visionary ambition

In 2014, Swiss businessman and then Lalique CEO Silvio Denz acquired the estate, infusing it with visionary ambition. To mark its 400th anniversary in 2018, he unveiled the exquisite Lalique Hôtel & Restaurant, a five-star Relais & Châteaux property where four worlds – wine, crystal, gastronomy and hospitality – harmoniously intersect in a celebration of beauty and precision.

The 17th-century honey-coloured château, with its elegant tower and fortified origins dating to the 13th century, has been meticulously renovated under the guidance of designers Lady Tina Green and Pietro Mingarelli.

Lalique’s signature crystal artistry shines throughout: bespoke chandeliers resembling vine leaves cascade from ceilings, panels etched with intricate motifs adorn walls, and one-off pieces – from decanters to furniture – create an atmosphere of refined enchantment. The on-site boutique offers these items for purchase, alongside estate honeys, jellies, and of course a large selection of wines from the property – as well as Denz’ other estates Château Péby Faugères and Château Faugères (both St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé), and Château Cap de Faugères in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux.

Intimate wine experiences

Yet the true heartbeat of Lafaurie-Peyraguey lies in its wine experiences. Curated tours and tastings reveal the secrets of this 36-hectare mosaic of gravelly terroirs. Visitors explore the historic ‘enclos’ vineyard, the cellars with their classic oak barrels (including a unique solid crystal barrel by Lalique), and the charming chapel fully decorated with crystal motifs.

Options range from classic visits with tastings of three wines, including the grand vin, to the exclusive ‘Hidden Treasures’ prestige tour for hotel guests, delving into the private historic cellar housing over 350,000 bottles from Bordeaux and beyond.

Day visitors – arriving by car or coach – can enjoy tours and tastings without staying overnight, making the estate accessible.

These intimate, appointment-only experiences demystify the labour-intensive creation of Sauternes – multiple passes through the vines to harvest botrytised berries – while highlighting the estate’s dry whites too.

Exquisite dining

No stay is complete however without dining at the Michelin two-star restaurant, helmed by chef Jérôme Schilling, named Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2023, who calls himself a ‘cuisinier des vignes’. It was indeed one of the best meals I’ve ever had in my life with impeccable service, incredible food flavours and thought-provoking wine pairings.

His inventive, precise cuisine draws inspiration from the Sauternes terroir, using seasonal local produce to craft dishes that elevate the estate’s sweet and dry wines.

Panoramic views of the vineyards frame meals in the elegant dining room, where golden Sémillon leaf motifs on the ceiling echo the landscape outside. The extensive wine list (over 100 pages) spans France and the wider wine world including deep verticals of some of the most well-known estates (from Bordeaux and beyond) with many including their first ever vintage.

Masterful pairings are created by head sommelier Adrien Cascio unlocking new dimensions in the wines’ complexity. Dinner menus start around €220 for four courses (excluding drinks), with accessible €59-60 discovery lunches in low season for locals. The restaurant is determined to secure a third Michelin star – the first for any Bordeaux restaurant.

In warmer months, the summer terrace offers a more relaxed al fresco option, perfect for lighter menus amid the vines.

Calm elegance

The boutique hotel itself – just 13 rooms and suites across two floors – exudes calm elegance. Each space is uniquely appointed with Lalique crystal accents, high-end fittings and sumptuous fabrics.

Hotel amenities include a bar (with an impressive spirits and cigar selection), lounge, concierge services and complimentary e-bikes for exploring quiet lanes and nearby châteaux like Sigalas-Rabaud or Clos Haut-Peyraguey.

Personalised services from Maître de Maison Pierre Gazeau anticipates every whim – from car hoovering to organising chapel weddings or last-minute helicopter landings (requiring a quick call to the gardener for the field heliport). The hotel also holds two Michelin keys, joining the restaurant’s two stars in prestigious recognition.

In a region with no shortage of impressive estates, Lafaurie-Peyraguey stands apart as an intimate, worthy destination for a tasting, a gastronomic pilgrimage, or a multi-night immersion while enjoying the slow, soulful rhythm of Sauternes.

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Terroir as a concept originated in the Middle Ages, when describing a wine as having ‘the goût de terroir’ was often disparaging: literally, the taste of dirt. Appropriate, then, that terroir today has become as common as muck.

Yet as late as the 20th century, it was of little interest to wine writers. George Saintsbury’s Notes on a Cellar-Book (published 1920) doesn’t mention it. In Alexis Lichine’s Wines of France (1951) there’s an index entry for terrine de lapin but not for terroir; André Simon didn’t think it worth including in his otherwise comprehensive glossary to The Noble Grapes and the Great Wines of France (1957).

That’s because the widespread appearance of the word occurs only after the 1976 Judgement of Paris comparative tasting, when California triumphed over Bordeaux. The adoption of the word terroir in wine writing is – ironically enough – a consequence of wine experts’ failure to recognise it under blind conditions.

Far from being a profound philosophy of place, terroir was little more than a rearguard action by the French against the fallout from the world’s most infamous blind tasting. Yet it met with astonishing success. In the ensuing decades, terroir transformed dirt to doctrine thanks to France’s vinous prestige, despite scepticism from elsewhere.

As a word, terroir has evolved, and in its broadest contemporary meaning as a sense of place – encompassing culture, food, history and, crucially, typicity – it does have value. Yet, although terroir is largely justified by these ideas of identity and distinctiveness, today it’s mostly used as a fancy synonym for vineyard or soil, as evidenced by the increasing use of the plural, terroirs.

This creates a dilemma, because although history, culture and identity are increasingly important in a globalised world, the idea of single-site expression, soil composition, water retention and potassium content are not, and never have been, interesting for the vast majority of even serious wine lovers.

Cru-led expression may motivate winemakers and a minority of drinkers, but does it engage the typical Decanter reader, for example, or does it bore them with complex classifications that challenge even top wine professionals? Does terroir even register when you drink a bottle with dinner rather than tasting a lineup in a masterclass? Is it significant that a soil is millions of years old, or that a region was once under the sea? How many people walk into a shop asking for wines grown on alluvial marls?

In any case, for every great wine that is terroir-driven, such as a single-site Riesling with an indelible character that transcends vintage, there are others that aren’t, such as colheita Port, a wine defined by blending, ageing and careful craft. Expressing terroir isn’t a requirement of good or even great wine. Nor do we reflect enough on whether the assumptions of terroir prejudice us against quality wines from emerging regions or exceptional wines that don’t prioritise notions of terroir.

Defining terroir is, admittedly, like trying to nail schist to a wall. In some ways, it’s a definitionless word, capable of meaning everything and nothing at once, yet words are ultimately defined by usage. In its grandest, numinous sense, terroir does help to embody all that we don’t know about wine. But today it’s far more likely to be used as the basis for aggrandising every dull detail that we do know, ensuring that we see the trees, but not the wood.

As consumption falls and engagement wanes, we must question whether terroir is really why people drink wine, and whether it’s the best way to talk about the drink we love. At its worst, terroir obsesses about soil when we need to reveal soul. After all, the greatest wines are about far more than just dirt.

In my glass this month

Pieter Walser’s Blankbottle, Smaug the Magnificent 2022 (£29.95-£32.50 Butlers Wine Cellar, Swig) embodies the creative spirit of new-wave South African wine. The label is based on a childhood drawing by his son, Luca, not on the vineyards or the varieties used.

A scintillating, ageworthy white blend from Voor-Paardeberg fruit, its technical details stay behind the scenes. As Walser says: ‘The most courageous act in life is still to think for yourself.’ Curious drinkers can scan a QR code.

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Set against rolling hills with views of Mt St. Helena, a luxurious Napa Valley estate near to downtown Calistoga that includes almost 2.7 hectares (6.6 acres) of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards has recently found a buyer after being listed at $13.475m (£10.04m).

Lying on site of a former school, the sprawling 18.6-hectare estate (46 acres) features vines that gently slope down to a natural, spring-fed lake.

It also features heritage oak trees and an outdoor swimming pool, plus several buildings ranging from a main residence to a poolside cottage and bell tower, showed a listing by Arthur Goodrich and Federico Parlagreco, of Sotheby’s International Realty – St. Helena Brokerage.

A wine cellar underneath the main house is capable of storing at least 5,000 bottles, and has a ‘tasting nook’, according to the listing.

News of the recent sale constitutes the most expensive residential property deal in this part of California wine country since 2023, according to Mansion Global. The estate was previously listed at $18.5m a few years ago, and at $14.95m earlier this year.

A report by San Francisco Standard linked the purchase to a company managed by philanthropist Lyna Lam, wife of crypto billionaire and leading Silicon Valley entrepreneur Chris Larsen.

Listing agent Goodrich told Decanter it was his policy not to comment on the identity of buyers or sellers, however.

Of the luxury vineyard market in Napa Valley, he said, ‘It is definitely an ideal time to be buyer in wine country and while the wine industry may be experiencing a slowdown, these events are typically cyclical in nature.’

It wasn’t clear how involved the new owners wished to get in the vineyard operation, if at all, but the listing noted that the estate is eligible for a micro-winery permit.

Its Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards are split into four distinct sites and collectively produce 1,200-plus cases annually.

Highly regarded winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown is in charge of producing wine from the estate’s harvest, with vineyards managed by Hardin-Clark, and the listing said this has resulted in a growing wine club.

Alongside the underground cellar space in the main residence, there is a library wine collection going back to the property’s first vintage in 2002.

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Chet Valley English wine estate in Norfolk, with vineyards planted to Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and several other grape varieties, has been put on the market by property agency Brown & Co.

It is currently owned by John and Bridget Hemmant, who planted their first vines more than a decade ago. 

With a guide price of £1.65m, the sale offers a potential buyer the opportunity to parachute straight into the heart of the English wine scene.

‘Chet Valley supplies wine to private and corporate buyers alike, including some prestigious names,’ said Brown & Co.

Its East Anglia location is also tipped to see increasingly promising conditions for growing grapes, although adverse weather presented significant challenges for many UK producers in 2024.

There are around 6.52 hectares (ha) of vineyard on the estate, containing a range of grape varieties, and it also features an equipped winery and bottle store, said Brown & Co.  

Alongside Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, grape varieties planted include Solaris, Phoenix, Schönberger, Seyval Blanc, Cabernet Noir and Regent.

There is room for expansion via an extra parcel of land covering 2.61ha, said the agency.

Away from the winemaking side, an entertaining space has a balcony overlooking the vines, it noted.

Meanwhile, a three-bedroom house on the estate has also been operated as a holiday let for many years.

Warmer temperatures may benefit vineyards in eastern England in the coming decades, although climate change may also bring fresh challenges to the UK’s young wine growing sector, found a study published in the Oeno One journal in 2022.  

Researchers said some parts of the UK, including East Anglia, could see conditions that enabled the ‘exceptional’ 2018 vintage more often.  

The UK’s fledgling winemaking scene has been garnering greater attention.

Global consultancy group Knight Frank recently highlighted how vineyard prices in the south-eastern county of Essex have been rising, bucking a trend for stagnation or decline in some of the world’s more established producer regions.

However, Ed Mansel Lewis, partner and head of viticulture at Knight Frank, told Decanter magazine’s June 2025 issue that UK vineyard land prices may have reached a plateau for the time being, following an increase in wine production in recent years.

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The 18.9ha hillside property is located in the Calistoga AVA, with sweeping views of Mount St. Helena and the Palisades.

This historic property includes 2.5ha of prime Cabernet Sauvignon vines, which yield more than 20 tons per year.

Decorated winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown makes the estate’s wines. The grapes yield around 1,200 cases annually for the estate’s loyal wine club.

The property also features a natural spring-fed lake, heritage oak trees, fruit orchards and extensive recreational facilities.

There are six buildings, spanning 8,950 sq. ft. of living space, with a total of six bedrooms, six bathrooms and two powder rooms.

Renowned architect Howard Backen, who is famed for his sophisticated rustic style, designed the main two-storey residence at the heart of the estate.

It features an open-concept living room, a commercial-grade kitchen, a wet bar, a butler’s pantry and a 5,000-bottle temperature-controlled wine cellar with a tasting nook.

The second building at the estate, whose address is 225 Franz Valley School Road, is known as The Headmaster’s House. It’s a colonial-style two-bedroom, two-bathroom cottage with a wraparound porch, two fireplaces and an attic.

There is also a poolside cottage and a lakeside Victorian studio residence. Both buildings feature one bedroom and one bathroom.

Meanwhile, the Bell Tower Administration Building is a custom-designed event space, which could be turned into a gym, studio or wine tasting room.

The grounds include a 40,000-gallon pool, a basketball court, a tennis court and a bocce ball court, along with several areas designated for outdoor entertaining. There are two private wells, with ample reserve tank storage.

The listing agent, Sotheby’s International Realty’s St Helena Brokerage, described 225 Franz Valley School Road as ‘more than a property; it is a legacy awaiting its next chapter. A rare confluence of luxury, lifestyle, and viticultural excellence in the heart of Napa Valley.’

Current Napa County regulations mean that a property with this many living structures and features could not be reproduced today, making it a ‘truly unique and valuable holding’.

The estate, which is just minutes from downtown Calistoga, features four separate vineyards, which were planted between 1998 and 2002. Hardin-Clark manages the vineyards.

Each plot is bottled as a vineyard-specific, designated wine. There is a premium ‘Estate’ designation and an entry-level ‘Indulgence’ brand.

The inventory extends to the first vintage in 2002. The wines are primarily sold via the Heritage School Wine Club, which has seen its membership increase by 24% since 2021.

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Average vineyard value in the UK county of Essex was up 20% year-on-year, as prices have come under pressure in several more established wine world regions, said the 2025 wealth report by global consultancy group Knight Frank.

Interest in producing still wines has pushed vineyard prices in Essex to US$120,000 per hectare on average, although its status as a wine region is ‘embryonic’, said the report.

‘Counties such as Kent in the south-east of England producing predominantly sparkling wine have traditionally been the heartland of the [UK] industry,’ said Will Banham, of Knight Frank’s viticulture team.

‘But now we are seeing vineyard values rising more rapidly in other counties, such as Essex in the east, where growers are experimenting with different grape varieties to create still rosé and red wines.’

Shifting weather patterns linked to climate change are starting to affect the global vineyard market, said the Knight Frank report.

It also said falling wine consumption means that ‘few of the world’s key vineyard regions remain unscathed’.

Vineyard prices have fallen or stagnated in several regions, albeit the report noted that values can vary widely by specific site within each area. 

Four risers and and four fallers

Twelve-month change in average vineyard values (US$ per hectare), cited by Knight Frank Wealth Report 2025.

Down

• Marlborough, New Zealand: Down 33% to $110,000
• Los Carneros, California, US: Down 15% to $290,000
• Côtes du Rhône, France: Down 10% to $30,000
• Barossa Valley, Australia: Down 10% to $60,000

Up

• Essex, UK: Up 20% to $120,000
• Barolo, Piedmont, Italy: Up 5% to $2.08m
• Loire Valley, France: Up 5% to $90,000
• Stellenbosch, South Africa: Up 3% to $80,000

Production volumes vary considerably, too. Wineries in Essex collectively make around two million bottles annually, whereas Marlborough in New Zealand accounts for 350 million bottles, the report said.

A sharp drop in Marlborough average vineyard value in 2024 reflected falling bulk wine prices, but Knight Frank’s report suggested the market could bounce back.

Kurt Lindsay, of real estate group Bayleys, Knight Frank’s local partner, said, ‘The Marlborough Sauvignon brand is very strong and I think we are close to the bottom of the trough. Now is a good opportunity to buy vineyards at 2019 prices.’

In northern California, the picture is mixed. Values for ‘premier Napa vineyards’ broadly remained stable, said the report, citing David Ashcraft, broker at Vintroux Real Estate, but the report also showed a 15% drop for the Los Carneros area.

Lifestyle destination on the up: North Fork, Long Island

On the US East Coast, vineyards and wineries in the North Fork area of Long Island have been attracting wealthy ‘lifestyle’ buyers, said the report. 

‘North Fork has become a real destination,’ said Melissa Principi, a broker for Douglas Elliman, Knight Frank’s residential property partner in the US.

Many buyers have added stylish restaurants and tasting rooms to their properties, Principi said in the wealth report. Average vineyard value for the area held steady last year at $250,000 per hectare.

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Chalksole Manor in East Kent lies in one of the key regions for English sparkling wine production and the property comes with a 2.8-hectare (6.89 acres) vineyard. 

It has been listed for sale with a guide price of £3.3m, according to estate agency BTF Partnership.

A main residence was built in the Arts & Crafts style of architecture in 1920 for Sir Thomas Henry Devereux Berridge KBE, a former Liberal MP and solicitor, and subsequent owners have included a London photographer. Major renovations have taken place under the current owners, who arrived in 2002.

Alongside the charm of a century-old manor residence and the nearby beauty of Alkham Valley, the vineyard could prove an enticing opportunity for prospective buyers, said BTF Partnership.

First planted in 2007, there are 9,000 vines encompassing the classic trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

These grape varieties are best-known for producing Champagne, but they have also formed the bedrock of the burgeoning English sparkling wine movement in the past two decades. 

Grapes from the Chalksole Manor vineyard are currently sold directly to winemakers.

Listing agency BTF said there was scope for a new business and that the vineyard’s current size could produce around 7,000 to 8,000 bottles of wine annually. Planting could be expanded with the acquisition of further land that is not part of this property sale, it added.

Purchase of a 3,600-square-foot, modern agricultural barn can also be negotiated separately by a prospective buyer interested in developing a wine business, the agency said.

Alex Cornwallis, of BTF Partnership, said, ‘This is the perfect house for someone looking for a private, rural and accessible country property with additional income streams and vineyard, which can be run as a hobby or developed for those with more commercial aspirations. 

‘The existing holiday lets already generate a useful additional income stream, with the potential for further development.’ 

Starting a vineyard from scratch can require significant upfront investment and a willingness to wait several years before a first vintage can be bottled.

Cornwallis said, ‘For many people it would take them years to find and build a similar property with such potential for further growth and it will be of interest to those looking to avoid this and the challenges of getting the vineyard to its already-productive stage.’  

Wine production in the UK has seen a boom period. There are more than 1,000 vineyards in the UK, said trade body WineGB last year.

It said Chardonnay was the most widely planted grape variety, accounting for 32% of the overall hectarage, followed Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Some top Champagne houses have taken notice. Taittinger’s Domaine Evremond officially opened in Kent in late 2024, nearly a decade after the Champagne house announced it had joined with partners to plant vines there.

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Pitched as a hidden gem of Napa Valley, the historic Glendale Ranch estate near to St. Helena has been listed for sale after being in the same family since 1938. 

Buyers will need deep pockets to meet the asking price of $100m, yet the estate offers 809 contiguous hectares (2,000 acres) of land in the heart of Napa wine country.

It’s also home to a commercial vineyard operation. There are 16.2 hectares (40 acres) of vines, plus potential for further planting, said listing agent Erin Lail, of Coldwell Banker.

Lail, who is also part of the fifth generation of a Napa winemaking family, told Decanter the Glendale Ranch property was a true rarity in the region. 

‘Long ago, these types of properties were more common, but over the last century [they] have been broken up and sold off for various reasons,’ Lail said.

‘Nothing remotely close to this is available, or will be to the best of my knowledge, again in Napa Valley.’

A range of prospective buyers have shown interest so far, Lail said, including developers, conservationists and ultra-high-net-worth individuals seeking a family residence or interested in the winery potential.

Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for more than half of the current vineyard area, with Malbec, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah and Merlot also planted.  

A fallow field spanning 25 acres can be planted to vines, and around 790 acres of land with a gradient of less than 30% run from the St. Helena American Viticultural Area (AVA) to the Howell Mountain AVA, said Lail. 

Glendale’s winemaking legacy stretches back to a buoyant era for Napa Valley vineyards in the late 19th century.

Today, there are four residences, including the six-bedroom ‘White House’ constructed in the 1880s at the centre of the ranch. 

Alongside vineyards and winemaking, potential activities range from fishing and stargazing to horse riding, swimming and dirt biking, said the listing. A vegetable and herb garden is also inhabited by chickens, which roam the area and lay eggs.

Current owners Lindsey Wiseman and Andrew Green said they have roots in Colorado and England, and plan to spend more time in those places following the sale.

Wiseman said they have been intimately involved with the vineyards and winemaking since arriving at Glendale full-time in 2014.

The couple’s children have also spent lots of time in the vineyards, keen to help the team prune and harvest from a young age, she said.

Part of the vineyard estate’s beauty is its biodiversity, from rolling oak woodlands to blue herons, owls and raptors, she added.

‘My family and our dedicated vineyard manager, Cio Perez, have always believed that a healthy and dynamic ecosystem touched by the hands of dedicated, caring and empowered people makes for delicious wine.’

Green said, ‘Here at Glendale we are proud to grow fruit that has gone into some of Napa’s finest wines.’ He described the estate as ‘a place of great beauty, a living landscape where seasons unfold and life moves at a slower pace’.

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Regulatory body The Takeover Panel said an Appeal Board has upheld a previous ruling that Balfour-Lynn and two others should pay compensation, following an investigation into share dealings at former property firm MWB Group. 

Balfour-Lynn cofounded Balfour Winery, which is renowned for producing award-winning English sparkling wine, in 2002. He is also a property and retail tycoon who formerly owned Liberty, the famous department store on Regent Street in London.

Balfour-Lynn served as the CEO of a property investment firm called MWB Group until it entered administration in 2012.

MWB Group provided serviced office accommodation throughout the UK. The company was also involved in running Liberty, along with the Hotel du Vin and Malmaison hotel chains.

The Takeover Appeal Board found that Balfour-Lynn had acted in concert with two other executives, Jagtar Singh and Richard Aspland-Robinson, to gain control of that business.

They were accused of concealing the extent of their shareholding from the market, and they failed to make a mandatory offer, which is required under takeover rules.

An earlier ruling ordered the trio to pay compensation worth approximately £33 million to MWB shareholders who lost out.

Balfour-Lynn appealed the decision, but the Takeover Panel has now dismissed his appeal against the compensation order.

The Panel ‘cold-shouldered’ Balfour-Lynn and Singh, the former joint finance director of MWB Group, for five years. The ruling means they cannot work on any transaction regulated by the Takeover Code during that period.

Aspland-Robinson was ‘cold-shouldered’ for four years, and another seven men were ‘cold-shouldered’ for between one and four years. 

In its ruling, the Takeover Panel said that ‘the other directors of MWB Group and the market generally were led to believe that shares comprising approximately 15% of MWB Group’s share capital were independently managed or controlled by Audley Capital Advisors LLP, when they were in fact controlled by Messrs Balfour-Lynn and Singh’.

Omar Faruqui, director general of the panel, said the ruling concluded the most complex investigation in its 56-year history.

He said: ‘They misled MWB Group shareholders and the market through a web of sham transactions and false trails stretching across many jurisdictions.

‘Exposing their deceit and wrong-doing is testament to the skill and determination of the panel’s enforcement team.’

Balfour-Lynn responded to the earlier ruling by claiming that he was only able to pay £2 million towards the £33 million compensation order.

He said he ‘lost everything he invested’ when MWB Group was liquidated, and he proposed an individual voluntary arrangement with his creditors. In its ruling on Tuesday, the Panel confirmed that he should pay compensation to former MWB Group shareholders.

Balfour Winery, which is located in Kent, is now one of the leading English wine producers, with listings in retailers such as Waitrose. The company also owns an estate of pubs and bars in London, Kent, East Sussex and the Cotswolds.

However, Balfour-Lynn said that Balfour Winery is now solely owned by his wife Leslie, who co-founded the business in 2002.

Balfour-Lynn added in a statement: ‘This case is unrelated to Balfour Winery, a very successful, independent business known for its award-winning English sparkling wine that is run by a young team of talented professionals.’

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Although designated a Fifth Growth in the 1855 Classification, Château Grand-Puy Ducasse is unlikely to feature high on a list of most desirable purchases for Pauillac fans.

Perhaps this is down to its location (the château is situated in ‘downtown’ Pauillac) so doesn’t conform to the classical image of names such as Château Latour, Château Lafite or Château Mouton-Rothschild, graced by elegant buildings and surrounded by glorious vineyards.

Or perhaps it is simply down to the fact that the wine has a reputation for failing to deliver the same intensity and excitement as many other Pauillac classed growths.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Andy Howard MW’s picks of recent Grand-Puy Ducasse vintages

Work in progress

At a recent masterclass in London, Director and Winemaker Anne Le Naour led a group of sommeliers through the 10-year project which Grand-Puy Ducasse has named ‘Renaissance.’

The work started in 2011 and reached a significant point in 2023, with the first harvest vinified in the new winery.

Initial impressions are that the team seem to be on the right track, although this is more of a ‘work in progress’ rather than the finished article at this stage.

The estate originated in 1675 with the acquisition of a family home on the Left Bank of the Gironde River, followed by expansion of vineyards over the next century, culminating in 1820.

One hundred years after being classified a Fifth Growth, Grand-Puy Ducasse launched its second-wine, Prélude, in 1955.

But, despite many changes, the estate and vineyards fell into decline, leading to the sale in 1971 to Mestrezet-Preller (a wine merchant connected with Cordier).

It is fair to say that, in recent decades, the wines of Grand-Puy Ducasse have failed to excite writers and consumers.

In 2003, Hugh Johnson wrote that, ‘the wines here have often lacked flair.’

Things had not improved in 2012, when Stephen Brook commented that Grand-Puy Ducasse was, ‘a wine that plays safe and rarely sets the pulses racing.’

Renaissance

In 2005 Grand-Puy Ducasse was purchased by Crédit Agricole Grands Crus, leading to significant investment in both vineyards, vinification and the tourist experience.

In the same year Crédit Agricole acquired Château Meyney in Saint-Estèphe, transforming it into a property which today substantially over-delivers.

The team are aiming to weave this same magic at the Pauillac estate. The highly respected Le Naour (along with Estate Manager Benjamin Cassoulet) are clear that the key to the Renaissance project involves a dual approach.

Investments in new production facilities are allowing the team to fully express the differences of the diverse plots which make up Grand-Puy Ducasse’s vineyards.

The estate has five key sectors all, according to Le Naour, having different roles to play both now and in the future.

The northern sector (adjacent to Pontet-Canet and Mouton-Rothschild) lies on gravelly hilltops, with the classic Grand-Puy sector to the west of the Gironde being characterised by gravelly sandy soil over a clay base, with many outcrops of pebbles.

Further west, the Artigues terroir is dominated by Merlot, while younger Cabernet Sauvignon vines (planted in the Pichon sector to the south) point to the future.

Finally, south-west of Pauillac, the Batailley sector is home to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot – a variety Le Naour has high hopes for.

The right direction

Work to completely change the château and winery took 10 years to gain planning permission, given its location in the centre of Pauillac.

The newly expanded vat room now hosts 46 double-skinned steel vats ranging from 30 hectolitres to 129hl, together with seven concrete vats for blending/ageing.

A focus on individual plot selection is seen as key, with Merlot still playing a key role in the distinctive style of Grand-Puy Ducasse.

The masterclass confirmed that the changes are moving the estate in the right direction.

And while Grand-Puy Ducasse remains ‘under the radar’ there should be potential for some smart buys over the next few years.

This is a Fifth Growth to keep a close eye on.

Grand-Puy Ducasse: Pick of recent vintages

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California wine country may be on the doorstep, but this luxury property on the edge of Sonoma also comes with its own 1.6 hectares (four acres) of Chardonnay vines.

That could be tempting for anyone wanting to get hands-on with this famous white grape variety, although the newly listed estate is also very much at the higher end of the market. 

It has an asking price of $15m (£11.56m), according to the listing by Holly Barker Lee, of Sotheby’s International Realty’s ‘Wine Country’ Sonoma Brokerage.

The vines have been used in commercial wine production. Barker Lee said, ‘[They] have been managed for the past few years by a local vineyard manager, who has forged a relationship with a local winemaker who has been buying the grapes for their wine label.

‘The sellers have been busy raising their family, so the arrangement was that the vineyard manager would care for the grapes, sell them, and pay the owners 20% of the profit and keep the remainder. However, for the right new owner, the four acres could be a fantastic hobby vineyard.’

An outdoor pool adorns the space next to the main residence, and nearby sun loungers offer one of several seating options in the estate’s surroundings.

There is also a covered stone terrace featuring a fire and television screen, as well as a separate firepit and a party barn on the grounds of the property – which spreads across 4.9 hectares of land (12.25 acres).

A bocce ball court and gym area are available, too, perhaps to help owners maintain a balanced lifestyle as they explore the region’s food and wine culture.

It’s located a short drive from Sonoma Plaza, putting it within reach of several winery tasting rooms and restaurants.

Alongside its Chardonnay vines, the estate boasts a link to Sonoma’s vinous heritage – having once been the property of the Sangiacomo wine-making family, which farmed pears before switching over to grapes, according to Sotheby’s International Realty.

While the four-bedroom main residence was built in 2012, a renovated two-bed farmhouse on the estate dates back to the late 19th century and the estate was once part of the larger Palmer Wedekind Ranch, Sotheby’s said. 

Prices for single family homes in Sonoma County have been under some pressure recently, suggested June 2024 figures from the California Association of Realtors. 

Its data showed the median price for a single family home in Sonoma County was $835,000, down 5.2% versus the previous month and down 1.8% year-on-year – albeit property sales in June increased 2.2% month-on-month.

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This ‘resort-like’ Napa Valley estate in Yountville was recently listed for sale and comes with around 5,000 Cabernet Sauvignon vines spanning 0.8 hectares (1.9 acres).

Its open-plan, modern lounge area blends into the sprawling garden space that includes an outdoor swimming pool, palm trees and views onto vineyards.

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It was described as a ‘wine lover’s dream’ by listing agent Ginger Martin, of Sotheby’s International Realty’s St. Helena Brokerage.

With an asking price of $28.5m, however, it’s at the very top-end of the luxury vineyard property market in California wine country.

Named ‘Palazzo Paradiso’, it is offered as a ‘turnkey’ estate that is ready for residents to move straight in, said the listing, adding there is a home cinema space with a 135-inch screen. 

While size of the estate’s vineyard is relatively small, it could nevertheless offer prospective buyers an opportunity to learn more about one of Napa Valley’s signature grape varieties.

There are several nearby vineyards, and temperature-controlled wine storage has been installed to help keep bottles in good condition until they are uncorked.

An outdoor kitchen and pizza oven give plenty of scope for al fresco dining on long summer evenings, while Yountville and nearby Napa cboast plenty of options for eating out. 

Chef Thomas Keller’s famous three-star restaurant The French Laundry lies in Yountville itself, or there’s always Keller’s Bouchon Bakery, too. Oxbow Public Market in downtown Napa is around 20 minutes by car from Yountville.

Residents can also get active by on the tennis court and bocce ball court, or the putting green for a less energetic workout.

There is also a pool house with sauna, gym and steam shower on the two-hectare property (5 acres), which is listed as a ‘single family home’ and comes with seven bedrooms, plus seven full bathrooms and two ‘partial’ bathrooms. 

According to California Association of Realtors, the median sale price of ‘single family homes’ in Napa County was $950,000 in April 2024, up 8% month-on-month and an increase of 16.6% versus April 2023.

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High values in Burgundy lifted average vineyard prices in France last year, even as parts of Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley faced a deteriorating wine real-estate market, according to French rural property agency Groupe Safer.

The price of a premier cru white-wine property in Côte-d’Or rose for a 28th year, climbing 13% to an average €2.25m per hectare. For vines producing premier cru red wines, prices rose 9.2% to €950,000 per ha. Communal appellations also appreciated, with average gains of 8% to 10%, depending on colour and location.

‘Only the Côte-d’Or appellations continue to climb, while stability prevails in the other prestigious appellations, and sometimes significant declines affect many red-wine appellations,’ according to Safer.

The agency said the French wine-property market was one of ‘two speeds’ in 2023. Across France, the average cost per ha for vines within protected designations of origin rose 1.5% to €153,500 last year.

The number of wine real estate transactions fell 7.6%, hurt by fewer deals in Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley, which suffered from a crisis in the red wine market and a slump in the Cognac region, which faces a drop in exports. In all three areas, sales of both vines and entire domains fell.

The value of French wine property that changed owners rose 15.8% to €1.17bn, an increase Safer said was due to a small number of ‘exceptional transactions’.

Among last year’s deals, Maison Joseph Drouhin bought two properties in Burgundy, adding more than 20ha. Investment fund Solexia acquired 7ha with the purchase of Domaine des Terres de Velle in Auxey-Duresses. In January this year Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite bought William Fèvre, adding 70ha in Chablis.

The market in Côte-d’Or is ‘highly competitive and coveted’, with mostly small transactions of less than 1ha in 2024, according to Safer. The department’s vineyard covers less than 10,000ha, less than a tenth of the area of Bordeaux.

Bordeaux faced a very different market, with average vineyard prices in the Gironde department falling 4.3% to €122,400 per ha. Less prestigious areas generally suffered bigger declines, with values for wine property in Médoc, Listrac and Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux slumping more than 20%. In the most prestigious areas – Pauillac, Pomerol, Saint-Julien and Margaux – prices were stable at high levels.

In ‘exceptional situations’ the best terroirs can still change hands for as much as €5m per ha, though competition for top-end properties is waning as investors become more cautious and supply increases, according to the agency.

Terrain in the Bordeaux and Côtes de Bordeaux appellations that is vulnerable to frost, or produces ordinary wines, is having a hard time finding buyers, with prices of around €4,000 per ha, according to Safer. In such areas, winegrowers looking to sell have generally put their decision on hold, instead opting for aid to grub up their vines.

‘The decline in real estate prices combined with the fall in vineyard prices has led to a drastic reduction in the value of estates,’ Safer said. ‘This is rekindling the interest of a handful of French and foreign investors.’

Average prices for wine property rose in Alsace, the Loire Valley and Champagne, even if the increase was less than France’s inflation of 5.4% in 2023 (Safer). Prices dropped 3.1% in Languedoc-Roussillon.

Excluding Champagne, the average cost of French vines with a protected designation of origin rose 0.7% to €82,000 per ha in 2023.

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This recently listed Sonoma wine country property offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape thanks to its wrap-around porch.

It also comes with a 0.8-hectare (two acres) Syrah vineyard, according to the listing by Holly Bennett of Sotheby’s International Realty’s Sonoma brokerage, adding that the estate offers the ‘epitome of wine country living’.

Its Syrah vines could make an interesting hobby project for a prospective buyer, although an asking price of $9.4m (£7.5m) does also put this estate firmly at the luxury end of the market.

Located just outside Sonoma itself, at 19100 Old Winery Road, the property also has no shortage of wine tasting and dining options on the doorstep – as well as opportunities to stock up for the cellar.

Originally built in 1925, the estate blends modern interiors with nods to its history, according to the listing agent, adding the current seller is Glenn Hickerson, who had a prolific career in aeronautics sales.

Extensive grounds include space for an outdoor pool and hot tub, as well as plenty of seating options to enjoy a sunset glass of wine.

There is also a bocce ball court and an old water tower that has been converted into an office space and artist’s studio.

A ‘party barn’, meanwhile, can be used for celebrations and gatherings, the listing stated, adding that the 1.7-hectare (4.29 acres) estate includes two guest cottages alongside the main residence.

The five-bedroom property is listed as a single family home. According to the California Association of Realtors, the median price of a single family home in Sonoma in February 2024 was $826,500, based on properties that have sold.

That’s down slightly from $829,900 in the previous month, but up by 6.7% versus February 2023.

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An open-plan living space blends into an outdoor terrace with a swimming pool area and vineyard views at this luxurious Napa home recently listed for sale.

There is also a ‘small hobby vineyard’ featuring 100 Cabernet Sauvignon vines, according to listing agent Ginger Martin, of Sotheby’s International Realty’s St. Helena brokerage.

Prospective buyers have been set an asking price of $9.95m (£7.8m).

Built in 2022, the 6,000-square-foot property includes a main residence and a guest house, encompassing five bedrooms, a home theatre, spa area with a hot tub and space for home-working. 

An outdoor kitchen and bar form part of the large outdoor terrace on the one-acre (0.4-hectare) site. 

There isn’t an official definition of what constitutes a hobby vineyard, but some estate agents have used the term to denote properties where the grape-growing or wine operations don’t generally need to turn a profit.

Anyone looking to perfect their grape-growing skills on the Cabernet Sauvignon vines at this Napa home is unlikely to be short of nearby inspiration – given the grape variety’s notoriety in wider Napa Valley vineyard region.

Alternatively, the property’s location appears to offer plenty of options for wine and food lovers, whether that’s tasting room visits or opportunities to find a bottle for enjoying on the terrace during long summer evenings.

Situated at 1170 Darms Lane, off Highway 29, the home has several wineries within in a short distance.

Famous three-Michelin-star restaurant The French Laundry, based in Yountville, can be reached in just under 10 minutes by car, shows Google Maps data. Downtown Napa is a similar distance in the opposite direction.

The property is one of the latest luxury homes to come up for sale in Napa wine country.

In January, a residence with space to plant vineyards on Wappo Hill in the Stags Leap District was listed for sale for the first time, at $12.5m.

Single-family homes in Napa County sold for a median price of $989,500 in January 2024, up by 25% versus January 2023 and 7% higher than December 2023, according to the California Association of Realtors.

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Surrounding trees give a secluded feel to the newly-listed, luxurious Napa Valley wine country home on Wappo Hill, but the 20-acre (8.1 hectares) estate also features 360-degree views of the local landscape, including vineyards in the renowned Stags Leap district.

It lies a short way up the Silverado Trail from historic winery Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and not far from three-Michelin-star restaurant The French Laundry, in Yountville.

It’s the first time this property has become available for purchase, according to the listing by agency Engel & Völkers, which has set an asking price of $12.5m (£9.8m). 

‘In a landscape where available space is scarce, this offering stands as a truly exceptional find,’ said agent Agi Smith, with Engel & Völkers. ‘There are only a handful of properties in this famous region of Stags Leap & Wappo Hill.’ 

Smith added, ‘In the past two decades, only two residences have sold on Wappo Hill: Robert & Margrit Mondavi’s home sold to Jean-Charles Boisset and Gina Gallo, [and] the Hartwell Residence sold to Realm Cellars.’

The owners of the current property up for sale wished to remain anonymous, however.

‘They have enjoyed the land for over two decades and are ready to pass the baton on to a buyer who will equally benefit from the tranquility this unique location and estate has to offer,’ said Smith.

A series of patio areas extend out from different rooms of the spacious main property, which is set all on one level.

There are plenty of options for al fresco dining, and a pizza oven sits near the patio dining area just outside the kitchen, which has interiors styled like a rustic French cottage. 

There is also an office space for home working, as well as separate guest accommodation.

Meanwhile, a walkway named Maple Lane runs around the property and offers views across hills, forest and the valley below, seemingly providing ample opportunities for an evening glass of Napa Valley’s finest.

While the property has no vineyard of its own, the agency believes a meadow at the estate’s entrance represents a potential opportunity for buyers in an area that is particularly well-regarded for producing rich Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 

Smith said it’s believed at least five acres of the property’s estate lands could be suitable for vines, but a proper analysis would be needed. ‘A buyer would need to hire a licensed professional to verify how much [land] is actually plantable.’

Pent-up property demand in Napa Valley in 2024? 

Smith said the Napa Valley property market could see an upturn in demand in 2024, following a relatively quiet 2023.

‘As the rest of the country experienced this past year, the market was softer than usual due to high inflation and high mortgage rates. As we closed out this past year (2023), I started to see the market pick up, and as we dip our toe into this new year, I can already see the pent up demand is revving up. I believe the first three quarters of this year will be very strong.’ 

Smith added that ‘Napa Valley continues to bring people in from around the globe’.

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They’re beautiful, aren’t they?’ I was asked while ambling through Château TrotteVieille’s St-Emilion vineyard on a beautifully sunny day in September – grapes still on the vine, full of juice and awaiting the final picking that would come in a few days. ‘Indeed, they are,’ I replied as I bent down for a closer look, wellington boots mulching the recently rain-filled soil. The objects in question were pre-phylloxera vines dating back to the 19th century. Gnarled, thickly set and brimming with green leaves and plentiful berries, a marker of this year’s excellent fruit set and bumper crop to come. I knew TrotteVieille had some impressive vines – said to be the oldest on the Right Bank, and likely in all of Bordeaux – but there’s something uniquely moving about seeing these majestic living creatures that have been firmly rooted for more than 140 years.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 15 Château TrotteVieille wines

About 3,000 of these ancient Cabernet Franc vines are nestled in the middle of two plots, within an eight-hectare (7ha planted) enclosed vineyard, or clos, of which 40 disease-proof vines have been selected and are being used for the estate’s new massal selection plantings (propagation using cuttings taken from the best-quality existing vines on a plot). The vineyard, farmed organically but not certified, is roughly split equally to Merlot and Cabernet Franc with 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon, of which 80% is high-density plantings.

Differing from those of neighbouring vineyards, soils here are shallow clay over a mineral-rich, limestone shelf – a rare phenomenon in the region. ‘It’s the most beautiful terroir that can exist for vines,’ says long-time estate manager Christophe Dussutour, who also oversees the Castéja family’s Pomerol estates Château du Domaine de l’Eglise and Château La Croix du Casse. The family also owns several other Bordeaux estates, including fifth growths Châteaux Batailley and Lynch Moussas in Pauillac. ‘The vineyard copes extremely well [both] in drought and when it rains,’ Dussutour adds.

Inspiring site

This advantage was unknown to Marcel Borie, co-founder of négociant company Borie-Manoux, when he purchased the estate in 1947 – then unclassified, TrotteVieille was ranked as a premier grand cru classé B estate in 1955, retaining that status up to today. ‘It was a gamble on my grandfather’s part,’ recounts Philippe Castéja (son of Emile Castéja and Denise Borie, Marcel’s daughter). ‘The estate was in poor shape, and after World War II red wines were difficult to sell.’ But after liking the 1943 TrotteVieille wines, and finding the spot ‘extraordinary’ when he visited, Borie sold his wheat-producing estates in Haute-Vienne (around Limoges) to raise the capital. ‘It was a pure coup de coeur,’ Castéja says.

TrotteVieille’s vines are situated to the side and back of the château, which is in direct sight of St-Emilion’s monolithic church spire. A beautiful view, but one that comes with strict rules for estates wanting to renovate. ‘We were prisoners in a sense,’ Castéja says. ‘As we’re within UNESCO surroundings, we could not increase the footprint, size or height of the buildings.’ After 12 years of work, the new facility for winemaking and ageing was inaugurated in 2022, but was sufficiently functional to produce the 2021 vintage. For Castéja, the architect had to satisfy two criteria: first, ‘to make the building look as if it had always been there’ – not an easy feat for an estate with a history of winemaking dating back to at least the mid-15th century; and second, to ‘showcase the wines in a spectacular cellar’, which houses 14,000 library bottles.

Château TrotteVieille at a glance

Estate: 12ha, 11ha under vine

Varieties planted: Merlot (50%), Cabernet Franc (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%)

Age of vines: 60 years old on average

Estate manager: Christophe Dussutour

Technical director: Xavier de Rozières

Certification: HVE3 (Haute Valeur Environnementale) as of 2021

The vat room, created by Borie in 1949 and filled with large 90hl-120hl concrete tanks, was changed when Castéja arrived at the estate in the 1990s. He initially split the tanks in half for ‘more precision’, but went one step further more recently by removing the cement and installing 26 small stainless steel tanks ranging in capacity from 20hl-70hl. The grand vin is aged for 18 months in 100% new oak (the second wine for 12-14 months in 50/50 new and used oak), and has been that way ‘for a number of years’, as ‘the wines react well to new wood’. Certainly the natural concentration of TrotteVieille seems to cope well with the toast-levels chosen for the barrels, and there is little evidence of oak on the palate.

The second wine, Dame de TrotteVieille (formerly La Vieille Dame), comes from younger vines and was introduced in 2000. From 2012 it also includes 4ha of vines from the acquisition of neighbouring Château Bergat, a St-Emilion grand cru classé. TrotteVieille also makes a limited, non-commercialised, 135-bottle production of Les Vieille Vignes, launched in 2004, made solely from the old-vine Cabernet Franc and, from 2022, vinified in a custom-made spherical wooden vat.

Signature style

When asked about the much-discussed St-Emilion classification – revised in 2022 and now including 85 estates in all, just two of them with the top “A” status – Castéja says: ‘TrotteVieille is among the estates that should be [ranked] “A”, of course, but if to be “A” is to have a restaurant or 30ha of vines, then we are not. The rules are the rules, we accept to play by them and that’s it. The only thing I can say is that I think some of the key aspects of the wines are not taken into account enough.’

The wines have their own very specific aromatic and taste profile. Cabernet Franc plays a central part, offering notes of dried herbs, flowers, exotic spices and black fruit, while the taste focuses on a concentrated core of dark fruit, high acidity, silky tannins and a pronounced saline, mineral undertone. For consultant Axel Marchal (recipient of the inaugural 2021 Decanter Rising Star award), who in 2016 joined his associate Valérie Lavigne at the estate, where she had worked since 1998 alongside the late Denis Dubourdieu, ‘TrotteVieille can be distinguished by its shining aromatic expression, a very pure fruitiness (various shades of fresh fruit), and also by its vibrant palate, with finessed tannins and saltiness on the finish’. Fellow consultant Thomas Duclos describes a ‘pêche des vignes’ aroma: a combination of ripe, juicy white peach and succulent raspberry.

The humble and understated nature of the venture is striking, not only given the history and pedigree of the estate but also the quality and consistency in the style and unique signature of the wines. While the estate is open to visitors by appointment, and offers accommodation, it remains discreet, retaining the kind of charm you only get from long-term, generational ownership, befitting of a long-standing St-Emilion premier grand cru classé. ‘We believe in the long run – we’re not in a hurry,’ Castéja says. ‘In agriculture and viticulture, you can’t rush. It takes 10 years to see what a vine is able to do and 20 years for a red wine vine to reach full capacity in terms of what it can give. We think we’re showing what we can do and I think that we’re understood nowadays.’

Full of potential

If you can’t readily recall TrotteVieille’s distinctive gold-on-black bottles (reversed for the second wine’s labels), it may be because the wines only joined Bordeaux’s La Place distribution network in 2017, following years of distribution through the family business. ‘There was a big demand, but it remains a low-key distribution because of the limited volumes.’ About 18,000 bottles of the grand vin are produced each year.

While certainly proud, Castéja says: ‘It’s a challenge to make this style recognised. We’ve worked hard to bring it into the light, but we have an extraordinary chance at TrotteVieille to work with such an old population of vines’.

The new cellar has added an extra level of precision to the winemaking and the team are looking forward to the new massal Cabernet Franc planted in 2016 coming into production, with an additional 0.5ha planted last year and more scheduled for December 2024.

‘The quality potential is very high,’ says Marchal. ‘TrotteVieille is not a wine that displays a lot en primeur, but its ageing potential is amazing. Duclos agrees: ‘When we taste old vintages, we clearly see the wines have been great for a long time – 1949 and 1961 are amazing.’

I found myself enjoying the wines from the slightly hotter years, which ‘perform well at the estate’ says Duclos; 2003, 2005, 2010, 2018 and 2019 with full structure, racy acidity and fine tannins. The 2000 felt most enjoyable to drink now, however a 1988 and 1996 went down well over lunch and were also in extremely good condition.

‘We can do better,’ says Castéja, ‘but we’re already at a very good level now.’

Pick of the vintages: a taste of TrotteVieille

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That dream of giving it all up and making wine on a Greek island against a crystal-blue ocean backdrop could become a reality – although it’ll cost several million euros to make it happen at this stone-walled villa.

Named ‘Estrella’, this five-bedroom property on the island of Tinos overlooks the Aegean Sea and comes with a small vineyard and olive trees, as well as other ‘Mediterranean vegetation’. 

Listed at €3.5m (£3m), there is also a winemaking room ‘to produce your own wine from the property’s grapes’, said listing agent, the Greece division of Sotheby’s International Realty. 

The vineyard is planted to the Assyrtiko grape variety, which has gained greater international recognition in recent years for its ability to produce top white wines.

That might suit a wealthy buyer looking to create a ‘hobby’ wine project.

Others, however, may prefer to focus purely on the pleasures of an evening on the large terrace, glass of Assyrtiko in-hand as the sun sinks beneath the horizon.

Stone steps also lead from the garden directly down to Agios Romanos sandy beach.

Sotheby’s said the buyer of the property would be eligible for Greece’s golden visa programme, which essentially offers the prospect of a permanent residency permit via ownership of a property worth at least €250,000. 

This property value threshold doubles in some areas, such as on the better-known islands of Santorini and Mykonos, according to the agency.

Tinos lies within the Cyclades archipelago that also includes Mykonos to the south-east.

It is home to an interesting wine scene, including a project that involves international winemaking consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt.

Greece in general has been generating fresh excitement in the wine world of late. ‘The surging feeling of energy across the Greek wine scene is so potent right now,’ wrote wine expert and broadcaster Olly Smith in a recent column for Decanter magazine. 

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Described as ‘one-of-a-kind’, the hilltop Napa Valley mansion on Mt. Veeder Road has become one of the latest luxury vineyard properties in this famous California wine region to be offered for sale. 

Set on a sprawling estate covering around 52.6 hectares (130 acres), the property comes with a separate guest tower and rows of Cabernet Sauvignon vines, according to the listing agent, Sotheby’s International Realty’s St Helena Brokerage. 

High-profile guests at the hilltop property are understood to have included the Dalai Lama, it said.

With an asking price of $22m, though, the estate is also very much at the higher end of the market for anyone dreaming of trying their hand at viticulture.

Bold architecture is a signature of the main residence and guest house, described in the listing as combining ‘modernism, Art Deco and a touch of deconstructivism’. 

Sotheby’s International Realty said, ‘It is the ideal property for an art lover, a collector, or anyone who appreciates stunning architecture, commanding views, and fine wines.’

There are around 3.2 hectares (eight acres) of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards, which are the source of award-winning wines, said the listing agent.

A spokesperson told Decanter the vines were currently being overseen by John Deer Vineyard Management, with wines being produced by winemaker Chad Alexander.

Inside the main villa itself are four bedrooms, plus a gym and also a home office.

A terrace that sits atop the property’s guest tower offers 360-degree views across Napa Valley, whilst an outdoor swimming pool lies between the tw0-bedroom guest house and the main villa.

The villa, pool, and guest tower were designed by UK-based architect David Connor, for the heir to a Swedish bread fortune, according to the listing agent, which said the avant-garde property was built in 1988. 

Napa Valley is no stranger to luxury properties, and several estates with vineyards have come up for sale in recent years.

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English vineyard Cobble Hill, near to the north Norfolk coast, has been listed for sale by estate agency Knight Frank, which said it is seeking offers in excess of £1.3m ($1.58m). 

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Bacchus grape varieties are planted at the 3.6-hectare (ha) vineyard (nine acres), which has chalky soils reminiscent of France’s Champagne region, according to Knight Frank. 

A key part of the deal is an additional 19.4 hectares (48 acres) of land that is considered suitable for vineyards, potentially offering scope for a buyer to significantly expand the estate.

It’s been a boom period for UK wine. Alongside a string of international awards for sparkling and still wines, vineyard plantings have increased 74% in five years, according to WineGB. 

Norfolk wines have won awards, but the region has largely flown under-the-radar as a vineyard setting so far, WineGB data showed.

James Osborn, partner in Knight Frank’s viticulture team, said things are changing. ‘Kent and Sussex have long been the most popular regions for growing vines in the UK. However, the East Anglia coast is fast becoming an established English wine region,’ he said. 

‘Cobble Hill is a rare and exciting opportunity for a new entrant or established wine grower to own a special part of the UK wine sector.’

Robert Perowne, the driving force behind Cobble Hill Vineyard, first planted vines there in 2016 and is now producing around 20,000 bottles per year alongside winemaker Chris Hatto.

UK vineyards see £480m investment

Around £480m has been invested in UK vineyards and wineries in the past five years, significantly above capital investment levels in the preceding five-year period, according to Strutt & Parker, an estate agency and property consultancy.

The best UK vineyards, such as those planted on ideal sites and with a strong track record of producing high quality grapes, can sell for more than £35,000 per planted acre (0.4ha), said Strutt & Parker’s summer 2023 viticulture report. 

It also reported growing buyer interest in parts of East Anglia, among other areas.

‘Over recent months we have noticed buyers are increasingly looking to Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex, which share many of the same characteristics as East and West Sussex, Kent, Surrey and Hampshire, but where there is perhaps more untapped potential for planting vines,’ the report said.

International wine producers are continuing to take notice. US-based Jackson Family Wines announced a major project to produce English sparkling wines earlier this year.

Where are most UK vineyards located? 

Vineyards are located across many parts of England and Wales, but the top six areas in terms of total vines planted are:

Kent: total hectares 1,033 | 26% of total

West Sussex: 570ha | 15%

East Sussex: 493ha | 13%

Hampshire: 380ha | 10%

Essex: 325ha | 8%

Surrey: 127ha | 3%

Data source: WineGB, 2023

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Gerhard Bauer, 73, faces up to 20 years in federal prison after pleading guilty to a mail fraud scheme, which saw him steal from his employer.

Bauer was the CEO and president of the unnamed international company’s US subsidiary, and his activities raised suspicion.

Prosecutors said that he created fake invoices and wrote company cheques in order to steal the funds. Investigators spoke to the company’s current CEO, who said that the business ‘would not purchase any of these items or services in its ordinary course of business’.

The US Attorney’s Office revealed that Bauer used almost $1.5m in embezzled funds to build Otium Cellars and Goose Creek Farms in Purcellville, Virginia.

According to the court statement of facts, Bauer also used the company’s money to buy hundreds of bottles for his winery in 2017.

He used $357,683 to pay off his credit card debt, according to the affidavit, and he also spent $146,416 on a relative’s private school tuition at the exclusive Foxcroft School in Virginia.

The farm was set up to raise and sell Hanoverians, a horse breed of German origin. Otium Cellars was sold in 2021.

The Loudoun County Sheriff’s Office and the US Secret Service’s Washington Field Office helped with the investigation.

Bauer was arrested and charged with mail fraud. US District Judge Leonie M. Brinkema accepted his guilty plea.

He is scheduled to be sentenced in November. Bauer faces a maximum penalty of 20 years in prison, but actual sentences for federal crimes are typically less than the maximum penalties.

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Repeated applause from 300 dinner guests greeted Peter Kwok and his family, as he hosted a belated, Covid-delayed celebration this past April for the recently renovated cellars at Château Bellefont-Belcier, a grand cru classé in St-Émilion that the Chinese billionaire acquired in 2017.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 10 vintages from Château Bellefont-Belcier

Under a massive tent to protect against rain falling on elaborate table settings, the dinner also feted Kwok’s 25th vintage in Bordeaux: in 1997 he acquired Château Haut-Brisson St-Émilion Grand Cru, the first of seven properties under his company name Vignobles K.

Winemaking director Jean-Christophe Meyrou said a third reason to celebrate was for another Vignobles K property, Château Tour Saint Christophe, which was promoted last year from St-Émilion grand cru to grand cru classé in the appellation’s 10-year revisable classification.

But the jewel of the Vignobles K crown is Château Bellefont-Belcier. Created in the late 18th century, the estate is located on south-facing slopes in Saint-Laurent-des-Combes, neighbouring two premiers grands crus classés – Château Pavie, rated ‘A’, and Château Larcis-Ducasse – and the iconoclastic, non-classified Château Tertre Rôteboeuf.

Bellefont-Belcier extends over 13.5ha in one piece, but divided into three areas: the limestone plateau, the south clay-limestone slope and clayey-sandy parcels.

While the terroir is excellent, heavy-handed viticulture and winemaking had obscured potential fruit freshness and wet stone character, but since Peter Kwok acquired the estate in 2017, the wine has improved: ‘A lot’, says US wine merchant Jeff Zacharia of Zachys Wine in New York. ‘The wines are showing more fruit purity and freshness,’ he says.

In 2017, Kwok initiated a transition from what had been overly oaked wine with overripe fruit to a more classical style. Recent renovations – including cellar temperature controls and adding 40-hectolitre, egg-shaped wooden vats for ageing – have improved finesse, according to Meyrou.

Towards brightness and verve

For former Château Bellefont-Belcier technical director, Jérôme Aguirre, a close friend of Meyrou and who since 2022 works for Baron Philippe de Rothschild in the Médoc, 2018 marks ‘the real change in style for the estate’.

While Michel Rolland, known for later harvesting and new oak for ageing, still consults at Vignobles K, he left Château Bellefont-Belcier in 2016 to be later replaced by Thomas Duclos, who has a diametrically opposed style.

‘With Thomas, we focused more on freshness, on harvesting ripe grapes, but retaining a fresher profile, which meant picking certain parcels earlier,’ Aguirre says. ‘From then on, it has been a progression to greater balance.’

Château Bellefont-Belcier was hardly alone in reflecting what critics called ‘Parkerised’ wines in St-Emilion earlier this century. Indeed, many châteaux – from humble estates to some premier grands crus classés – often crafted more oaky, ultra-ripe wines.

The definition of maturity for Duclos is ‘quite different from that of our predecessors, but also our viticulture is more precise’, he says. ‘We taste each grape in different vine plots to harvest at the right time – and not one day beyond that.’

Fermentations are carried out without adding sulphur, while a minimum dose is added at the end of ageing.

With vinification in concrete tanks, extractions are adapted vat-by-vat to obtain desired profiles, Meyrou says. ‘The origin of the grapes (plateau, hillside, foot of hill) influences extraction work and the percentage of new barrels has been greatly reduced to meet the needs of the wine, and not to dominate it,’ he adds.

Attracting talent and motivation

One sign of this estate’s success is how it attracts talent: Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny joined Vignobles K last year to replace the gifted Aguirre. She had worked no less than 25 years with Château Angélus (and Michel Rolland) in St-Emilion.

Fulchi d’Aligny was on hand last year as Champagne flowed to celebrate the promotion of Château Tour Saint Christophe. There was a true sense of camaraderie, with Meyrou stressing the virtues of teamwork: ‘I strongly believe in human value, having the “right gesture” and know-how in the vineyards,’ he told me during that celebration.

‘Team loyalty and support is a priority for us and not just a figment of the imagination.’ Indeed, after having known Meyrou these past few years and members of his talented team, the quality of personnel is impeccable.

Future perspectives

St-Emilion is unique for its revisable classification. Every 10 years, châteaux vie for promotion, submitting dossiers to argue how their wines have improved enough to merit higher ranking – and having their wines judged in blind tastings by an independent jury.

While Château Tour Saint Christophe succeeded last year, Château Bellefont-Belcier did not. ‘We tried to get a promotion (to premier grand cru classé) Meyrou told me, but ‘without success’.

The vertical tasting which spanned 2010-2020 clearly shows how a major stylistic change might have given an incoherent image to a tasting jury, but the estate seems on the right path for next time around.

At a glance

Created Late 18th century

Owner Peter Kwok and family / Vignobles K

Director Jean-Christophe Meyrou

Technical director Emmanuelle Fulchi d’Aligny

Consultant Thomas Duclos

Vineyards 13.5ha

Density 8,000 vines per hectare

Average vine age 35 years

Grape varieties 72% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaking Gentle extraction, low temperature fermentation

Ageing 12-14 months in 20%-30% new oak, and with 40-hectolitre containers since 2018

Some decry the controversial classification as meaningless, because few end-buyers know what is ‘classé’ and what is not. It has been encumbered by lawsuits over conflict of interest and the departure of top estates Châteaux Cheval Blanc and Ausone, followed by Angélus as well as La Gaffelière.

‘But it keeps us alert,’ Meyrou says. ‘This is the spirit of the ranking, having positive pressure that forces us to do better all the time,’ he explains. ‘We will do our best to represent our dossier in the next ranking, and we still have a few years to improve.’

Partly because one ranking criterion is how well estates welcome visitors, St-Emilion has engendered a flourishing wine tourism industry, which Vignobles K embraces: ‘It is not just a box to tick for the ranking,’ Meyrou stresses, ‘but rather to create a sustainable economic activity – and to make our estate known to wine lovers worldwide.’

The over one million people who visit St-Emilion annually expect châteaux to fulfil visits. Château Bellefont-Belcier does so seven days a week and throughout the year.

To date, the estate employs six full-time people for wine tourism, which represents 20% of its turnover. ‘Our offer is complete,’ says Meyrou. ‘It starts with a simple tasting visit, up to a stay at the estate, all enhanced by the possibility of joining our wine club.’

While its embrace of wine tourism is another nod to the overarching regeneration of the estate, it’s the wines, quite appropriately, where one can note a distinct line in the sand.

Tasting a vertical of Château Bellefont-Belcier from 2010 to 2020, the difference is dramatic. While ‘star’ vintages like 2010, 2015 and 2016 display excessive new oak tannin and tired fruit, vintages from 2018 to the present 2022 are brighter and more vibrant.

I detected positive change with the 2017 vintage, when Kwok’s team took charge of ageing: A key difference was 14 months in 40% new oak barrels as opposed to the previous habit of up to 20 months in 80% new oak.

The sum of all these parts add up to a château which has finally found its feet and is beginning to realise its full potential.

Château Bellefont-Belcier vertical: 10 vintages tasted and rated

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Why do we keep coming back to Bordeaux

With sweeping panoramic views, an outdoor pool nestled next to the main residence, not to mention rows of well-tended vineyards, the newly listed Napa Valley wine country home appears to have plenty going for it.

Prospective buyers will have to spend relatively big, though.

With an asking price of $25m, this is the most expensive residential property currently on the market in Napa, according to listing agent Hillary Ryan, of Sotheby’s International Realty’s St. Helena Brokerage.

Overlooking the Oak Knoll American Viticultural Area (AVA), the property has never before come to market, said Sotheby’s. It is the home of Betsy Moulds and her late husband, Steve Moulds, of Moulds Family Vineyard, the agency added.

Vineyards on the estate cover nearly 3.8 hectares (9.28 acres) and are planted to both Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, two classic ‘Bordeaux’ varieties. Napa Cabernet Sauvignon needs little introduction, but California Cabernet Franc has been increasing its profile in recent years, too.

‘Sustainable farming and vineyard management techniques are integral to the family’s values and farming methodology,’ the listing states.

The listing agent told Decanter, ‘The Moulds have carefully farmed the vineyard using sustainable practices and will help transition to the new owner. The dedicated farming team who has tended to the property would welcome the opportunity to continue caring for the vines.’

Stretching across 23ha (56.9 acres) in total, the property also features an event space with a large terrace, as well as a wine cellar and two guest residences alongside the main house.

It was built in 2002, with the help of specialists that included architects Ed Keiner and John Karsten, as well as interior designer Erin Martin, according to the listing.

Sonoma wine country home listed for $15m

Meanwhile, a four-bedroom wine country residence in Sonoma has also gone on the market for $15m.

Listed by Caroline Sebastiani, of Sotheby’s International Realty’s Sonoma brokerage, the property is actually the home of Don and Nancy Sebastiani, from the eponymous winemaking family.

A ‘true chef’s kitchen’ includes a rotisserie, and there is a large basement that appears ‘well-suited for a wine cellar’, according to the listing. There’s also a small gym and an outdoor pool.

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Colin David Rath, 59, pleaded guilty to two counts of forgery and 39 counts of dishonestly using tax returns at Christchurch District Court.

He was sentenced to three years and seven months in prison for conducting the NZ$1.3m tax fraud.

Rath grew up in Connecticut and worked as a property developer in New York before leaving the United States in 2016.

He wrote a book called It is What it is: A True Manhattan Real Estate Nightmare with a Silver Lining, which delves into the New York property boom of the 2000s.

In 2015, he was living in a US$3.4m luxury apartment in Manhattan, replete with two waterfalls feeding a koi pond in the living room.

However, he told the New York Times that he planned to leave the country after declaring that ‘this is not the America I knew’.

Rath sailed to New Zealand with his family on a NZ$950,000 yacht in 2016 and entered the country on an entrepreneur work visa.

After arriving in the Waipara region in North Canterbury, he purchased a vineyard with around 35,000 vines, which produces Riesling, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.

He set up two businesses – New York Grape Escape Ltd., and Fiddler’s Green Vineyard & Bistro, which traded as Waipara Winds Ltd.

However, the businesses struggled, and Rath ended up filing fraudulent goods and services tax (GST) claims in a bid to cover his costs.

When he submitted a tax return in April 2021, Rath declared that he spent NZ$1.6m on a spec house, a subdivision and work on a bed and breakfast.

However, Inland Revenue investigators visited the property and discovered that the spec house belonged to someone else.

The building company he named in the contract revealed that it had worked for Rath, but it had not built a spec house and it had not been paid for work completed on his property.

Investigators realised that he had filed fraudulent GST returns worth NZ$1,506,833.81 between 2017 and 2021, and that he had received NZ$1.3m.

They also discovered that he had forged at least 13 immigration documents to obtain the entrepreneur residency.

At a sentencing hearing this week, Judge Quentin Hix gave Rath credit for pleading guilty, showing remorse and making efforts towards reparation.

However, he said that the former property developer had ‘crossed a line’ when sentencing Rath to three years and seven months behind bars.

Prosecutor Paul Saunders said that Rath has not yet paid back any of his ill-gotten gains. He sold a Tesla, but he used the money to pay for his daughter’s university fees instead, and Saunders said this indicated a lack of remorse.

Rath said he regretted letting his family down. He hugged his wife before he was taken into custody to begin his sentence.

New York Grape Escape has been wound down, and the Fiddler’s Green business is now in receivership.

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Napa Valley wine producer Eisele Vineyard has purchased the next-door Alfred Frediani Ranch for $18.5m, said the estate agent responsible for the sale, broker James Keller.

The ranch features two parcels of land totalling around 11.2 hectares (27.65 acres), Keller said.

A spokesperson for Keller said the agent wished to make clear that the property sold was the Alfred Frediani Ranch on Pickett Road, and not the Frediani Vineyards estate on the Silverado Trail.

Eisele Vineyard’s general manager, Antoine Donnedieu de Vabres, said via email it was still early days in terms of the group’s plans for the property, however. ‘We have a lot of work to do before we are ready to share our vision,’ he said.

It’s one of several wine property deals in California in recent years.

France-based Artémis Domaines, the group controlled by French billionaire François Pinault and family, and which also owns Bordeaux first growth Château Latour, acquired Eisele Vineyard in 2013. The property was known as Araujo Estate at the time.

Bart and Daphne Araujo had owned the vineyard since 1990 and overseen several developments, including the construction of a winery and a shift to organic and biodynamic farming methods.

Yet the first Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wine was produced in 1971, and the land was originally planted to Zinfandel and Riesling grape varieties in the 1880s.

Separately this month, DuMol Winery said it acquired the Dr Galante Estate Vineyard in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. A fee wasn’t disclosed.

It said the Dr Galante site was first planted with 9.8 hectares (22 acres) of Pinot Noir in 1998 and lies around half-a-mile from the group’s existing Green Valley Estate vineyards. There are plans for an ‘incremental redevelopment’ of the property after the 2023 harvest, the group said.

Silicon Valley Bank’s wine division said in its recent 2023 report on the state of the US wine industry that the mergers and acquisitions market for wineries and vineyards remained ‘surprisingly strong’.

Among other recent high-profile vineyard deals in California, Moët Hennessy, part of the LVMH French luxury group of billionaire Bernard Arnault and family, announced last year it had acquired historic Napa Valley producer Joseph Phelps Vineyards.

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Jestin said he has decided to retire after 35 years of helping to develop Maison Dourthe and Bordeaux in general – from exploring new vineyard management and winemaking techniques to promoting wines on the international stage.

‘Although no longer involved in the day-to-day side of the business, rest assured that I will continue to support the company as both stakeholder and trustee,’ he said.

Dourthe, founded in 1840, has owned fifth growth estate Château Belgrave since 1979 but also has several other properties in its portfolio and manages 500 hectare vineyards across Bordeaux, alongside producing in-house labels such as Dourthe No.1.

It has a strong reputation as a quality wine producer, and recently partnered with Australia’s Penfolds to create Penfolds II using Bordeaux grapes.

Jestin has been a prominent figure during a significant period of change for both Bordeaux wine and the company, although his statement emphasised the strength of the team rather than any individual achievement.

He added that his son, Valentin, has become the Dourthe’s global brand director after working with the group for nearly a decade. Frédéric Bonnaffous has been appointed chief winemaker.

Among other recent developments, Dourthe announced earlier this year that it had acquired Château Le Boscq in St-Estèphe, ranked as Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. It had managed the property as a ‘tenant’ since 1995, and invested in winemaking improvements at the estate since then.

Last month, Dourthe launched ‘Les Parcellaires’ – three cuvées from specific vineyard sites. They include: ‘The Sémillon 54’ and Cabernet Sauvignon-planted ‘The La Gravière’ plots at Château Rahoul in Graves, plus the Cabernet Franc ‘Peykem’ plot at Château Reysson, a Cru Bourgeois Supérieur.

Only 2,500 bottles of each cuvée have been produced, debuting with the 2020 vintage.

Jestin noted in his retirement statement that a significant new chapter for Dourthe began in 1998, following a management buyout of the company by the Jestin, Chadronnier and Gouvars families.

Since 2007, Arvitis, owned by the Thiénot wine family, has been a major shareholder in Bordeaux companies CVBG, Dourthe and Kressmann, alongside the Chadronnier and Jestin families, Dourthe said.

Jestin said he was confident about Dourthe’s road ahead. The group has a 100-strong team, as well as partner growers – some of whom have been with the group for more than 30 years.

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Fans of California wine and board games can now pour a glass and spend an afternoon playing the new Monopoly Napa Valley edition, released this week by Top Trumps USA, under licence from brand owner Hasbro.

Top vineyard areas St. Helena, Calistoga and Yountville are among the properties and places featured, alongside local landmarks and some wineries.

Wine lovers who have visited the region may recognise Bounty Hunter, a merchant with a wine bar in downtown Napa. It occupies the high-value ‘Park Lane’ slot from the game’s classic UK version.

The most expensive property, the ‘Mayfair’ slot (UK) or ‘Boardwalk’ slot in the traditional Atlantic City version of the game in the US, goes to Napa’s well-known Grape Crusher statue, rather than a specific wine estate.

Napa’s Oxbow Public Market, home to boutique food and wine stalls plus restaurants, and the Silverado Resort also feature on the board.

Recently published on Decanter Premium:

Napa Cabernet 2019: Full vintage report and top wines

Several wineries star in the Monopoly Napa Valley edition, including Frank Family Vineyards.

Its founder, Rich Frank, said, ‘We could not be more thrilled to have a prominent position on this board next to other iconic wineries such as Beringer and Sterling [Vineyards].’

Oakville-based winery Napa Cellars is also among properties and sites featured, alongside Hall Wines and JaM Cellars.

Napa Cellars said it stars on Chance and Community Chest playing cards, the latter of which reads, ‘Napa Cellars consulted you to craft the next vintage. Collect 200.’

Top Trumps USA said it had released Monopoly Napa Valley in time for the holiday season.

’We’ve spent months creating a portrayal of the area’s dynamic communities that we hope locals and visitors alike will enjoy for years to come,’ said Jennifer Tripsea, a representative from Top Trumps USA, a division of Winning Moves International.

The group said Monopoly Napa Valley would be priced at $39.95 and sold via Amazon, CVS and www.toptrumps.us, as well as in local retailers.

It’s not the first wine-related edition of the famous board game. In France, Monopoly ‘edition des vins’ features top wine-growing areas across the country, with Burgundy’s Corton-Charlemagne occupying the highest-value slot.

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A luxury Napa Valley wine property covering around 34 acres (13.6 hectares) has recently been offered for sale at $35m.

Listed by real estate agent Cyd Greer, with the Coldwell Banker agency, the Meteor Vineyard Estate features 22.58 acres of vines in the Coombsville American Viticultural Area, close to Napa.

It’s predominantly planted to Cabernet Sauvignon with some Petit Verdot.

Greer, a leading agent in Napa Valley for more than a decade, told Decanter that Meteor was the most expensive listing that she has represented in the area.

Alongside an ‘ultra-premium vineyard’ described as highly profitable, there is also a four-bedroom main home, plus a three-bedroom second residence and a studio, according to the listing.

A heated plunge pool, wood-fired pizza oven and a wine cellar with rack space for at least 1,250 bottles are other features.

‘This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for a connoisseur of architecture, winemaking, and the geography and flora of Napa Valley,’ the listing states.

The identity of the vendor has not been confirmed, although the site was once owned by Napa founder Nathan Coombs in the 1800s.

Greer told Decanter: ‘I’m quite pleased with the level of buyer interest in the Meteor property thus far, which is reflective of the continued strength in this market segment.’

She added: ‘Despite the increase in interest rates and stock market softening, premium vineyards, luxury vineyard estates, and wineries are in short supply and very much in demand.’

Recently published on Decanter Premium: Napa Cabernet 2019: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

A new era for the historic Napa Soda Springs site

In another significant piece of Napa wine property news, a site of than 340 hectares that once housed the popular Napa Soda Springs resort was recently acquired by RH, a luxury design group and home furnishings retailer that also has restaurant and hospitality venues.

RH chairman and CEO Gary Friedman said on a company earnings call: ‘We closed on 856 acres (346ha) in the Napa Valley, probably the most beautiful piece of property in all of Napa.’

He added, ‘It was the site of the historic Soda Springs Resort from the 1800s, still has the ruins, where we’ll build a guesthouse and residences and a winery.’

Further details of the project have not been announced. It’s been reported that the site, located east of Yountville and a short drive from Napa itself, was bought for $25m, but this wasn’t confirmed.

A first hotel reportedly opened at Napa Soda Springs back in the mid-1850s. In 1872, according to the Napa County Historical Society, Colonel John Putnam Jackson bought the site and developed the resort, which operated until the mid-1930s.

For RH, the move follows the recent opening of RH Guesthouse New York, which it described as a ‘first-of-its-kind hospitality experience for travellers seeking privacy and luxury’. The group’s restaurant portfolio also includes RH Yountville in Napa Valley.

Luxury Calistoga estate with vineyards offered for $18.5m

This month, Sotheby’s International Realty listed a 46.7-acre (18.9ha) estate near to Calistoga that includes 6.3 acres (2.5ha) of vineyards.

It said fruit from the Cabernet vines was used by one of Napa’s most celebrated winemakers, without naming the producer.

With an $18.5m asking price, the site once hosted a school for boys but has since been ‘transformed into an adult playground’, said the listing by Arthur Goodrich, of Sotheby’s International Realty’s St-Helena brokerage, dedicated to wine country.

There are six bedrooms and eight bathrooms across ‘multiple structures’ on the property, which also features an outdoor pool and a ‘natural spring-fed pond’, according to the listing.

Wine properties entering the market can vary in scope from commercial operations to ‘lifestyle’ listings that may offer the opportunity to develop a for-profit wine project or be used more as a hobby vineyard.

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Sealwood Cottage Farm in Derbyshire, central England, has been put up for sale with a guide price of £1.4m ($1.66m).

A five-bedroom, Grade II-listed cottage is the focal point for the 8.68-hectare (21.44 acres) estate, but it also features a vineyard of around 1.6ha established by the current owners, John and Elisabeth Goodall.

Listing agent Fisher German said the Swadlincote-based estate’s guide price doesn’t include ‘any apportionment of the [wine] business’, but the owners would be ‘open to separate negotiation’ for the Sealwood Cottage brand and website, among other elements.

Alongside restoring the cottage itself, the Goodalls planted 4,000 vines on the property in 2008 following an inspirational trip to Germany.

‘I had a pen friend from Germany since the 1970s and we decided to go and visit her,’ said John Goodall.

‘It was wine growing country and I noticed that the soil was very similar to that at home – light, free draining and sandy, and it started us thinking.’

A debut wine came two years after planting and it’s a project that has grown substantially since those early days.

‘We produced 820 bottles of red that first year and that has now grown to almost 13,000 bottles a year, including red, white and sparkling,’ said Goodall, who is now in his 70s and is planning to focus more on tasting wine than making it.

‘We sell through our website, farm shops and some food festivals and fairs. We also do wine tasting and tours of the vineyard, so it really has become something quite special.’

The couple are moving close by and said they would be happy to share expertise with the new owners.

Grape varieties currently planted include Rondo, Solaris, Regent, Ortega and Madeleine Angevine.

While owning and managing a vineyard can require significant upfront investment and long hours, the last couple of decades have been a boom period for UK wine production.

A recent study found that higher growing season temperatures are predicted over the next 20 years, which is likely to see more sites across the UK becoming suitable for vineyards.

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Shafer Vineyards has been sold to Shinsegae Property, a division of the wider Shinsegae Group, with interests in several business sectors, from retail to real estate.

‘After long and careful consideration, our family has sold Shafer Vineyards to its new stewards, the wonderful team at Shinsegae Property,’ said Doug Shafer, the winery’s president, in an email to customers.

The deal marks the latest of several high-profile winery sales in Napa Valley in recent years.

Shinsegae Property has acquired the trailblazing Napa winery for 299.6bn South Korean won ($250m), according to the Korea Herald newspaper.

Further details about the deal were not disclosed, but the newspaper quoted a company official as saying the deal would benefit Shinsegae L&B, a wine and alcoholic drinks wholesale and importing business.

Doug Shafer said, ‘I am happy to say that I remain at Shafer, getting the chance to focus more on strategies, future projects, and the things that made me fall in love with the wine business in the first place.

‘In addition, Elias Fernandez, Shafer winemaker, remains in place, along with our winemaking and vineyard teams.’

Shafer Vineyards is one of the pioneers of the modern Napa Valley wine scene. John and Bett Shafer acquired an 85ha (209 acres) property in the early 1970s, which included land planted to vines since the 1880s.

John Shafer set about planting Cabernet Sauvignon on hillside sites and a first Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon wine was produced in 1978, released in 1981. It would prove a forerunner to the winery’s prestigious Hillside Select label.

Doug Shafer, John’s son, became winemaker at the estate in 1983, and subsequently took on the role of president in 1994.

John Shafer died in 2019. Speaking to Decanter in 2004 about his decision to exchange a publishing career in Chicago for California wine country, he said: ‘My motivation was to be in business for myself, and to be in on the ground floor of what I perceived would be a growing phenomenon. Plus I wanted to work outdoors.’

Doug Shafer said this week that the long-term focus of Shafer and its new owners was ‘all about quality’.

He said, ‘Shafer remains in good hands and if my parents could be here for this moment, I know without question that they would agree.’

Other major Napa winery deals in recent years have included the sale of Diamond Creek to Louis Roederer, and the acquisition of Heitz Cellar in 2018 by Gaylon Lawrence Jr and family. In January 2021, Lawrence Jr and Heitz CEO, Carlton McCoy Jr MS, announced the purchase of Stony Hill winery.

A recent report by California-based Silicon Valley Bank noted strong mergers and acquisitions (M&A) activity in the US wine sector in general.

Updated on 17 February 2022 with comments from Doug Shafer.

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CJ McCollum, of NBA team Portland Trail Blazers, has bought a 129ha (318 acres) vineyard property in Oregon’s Willamette Valley with his wife, Elise.

While the property hasn’t been named, it lies in the Yamhill Carlton American Viticultural Area (AVA) and borders the highly regarded Resonance Vineyard.

CJ McCollum is one of several NBA stars who enjoys tasting and collecting fine wine away from the basketball court, as he described to Decanter following the launch of his McCollum Heritage 91 brand.

With a two-hectare reservoir (five acres), several irrigation ponds and a nursery on-site, the McCollums said this week they have a long-term vision to create a vineyard capable of producing world-class wines.

‘This is wholly undeveloped land,’ a spokesperson for McCollum told Decanter this week.

The couple said they plan to begin laying out the vineyard in 2022, and they plan to work with experts to identify the best clones for particular sites on the property.

‘It’s been just over a year since we announced the McCollum Heritage 91 label, but for far longer Elise and I have had the privilege of exploring various vineyard sites throughout the Willamette Valley,’ said CJ McCollum this week.

‘As we explored the long-term vision of McCollum Heritage 91 and beyond, we truly craved enhancing our sense of place, which is represented by the acquisition of this beautiful property.’

For now, McCollum Heritage 91 wines will continue to be produced at Adelsheim Vineyard, where the NBA star worked with winemaker Gina Hennen to develop his own bespoke range. The first launch, a 2018-vintage Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir, reportedly sold out in less than one hour after making its debut in 2020.

News that the McCollums have become Willamette Valley vineyard owners is good for the region, said Morgen McLaughlin, executive director of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association.

‘CJ has been a wonderful ambassador for Oregon, through basketball, his local philanthropic efforts and now his interest in making top quality wines from the Willamette Valley,’ she said.

A 2020-vintage Willamette Valley rosé wine has also been released under the McCollum Heritage 91 label, plus a Chardonnay for the One Barrel Challenge initiative – with proceeds going to the Maurice Lucas Foundation – to support efforts to increase wine industry diversity.

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Kevin John and Diana Madeline Cullen established their property in Wilyabrup in 1971. Today Cullen Wines remains at the vanguard of winemaking in Margaret River. The couple’s youngest daughter Vanya Cullen, who has made wine at the family estate for 37 years, has gone from strength to strength since becoming chief winemaker in 1989.

Biodynamic certification in 2004 has reinforced the family’s ‘quality, integrity, sustainability’ mantra, and she is lobbying for official sub-regional status for Wilyabrup. This would give Wilyabrup (the indigenous Wadandi name for ‘place of red ochre’) its own Geographical Indication (GI).

Cullen Wines was certified carbon neutral in 2007. The estate’s average annual soil organic carbon increases offset more carbon than is emitted, resulting in carbon negative status.

As for wine quality, Cullen’s Diana Madeline – the producer’s flagship Bordeaux blend – has enjoyed ‘Exceptional’ top-tier status in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine since 2005. In 2018, Kevin John Chardonnay was one of three new Chardonnay additions to the ‘Excellent’ category of the auction house’s form guide.

From a high bar, quality continues to soar and Cullen has augmented the iconic range named after her parents with minuscule bottlings of Kevin John Legacy Series Chardonnays (since 2013) and Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon (since 2012), in select vintages.

Each is badged according to its auspicious lunar calendar picking dates. ‘Full moon, fruit and flower days are good for power’, while wines harvested when the moon is opposite Saturn have ‘wonderful vibrancy’, says Cullen. I expect the Vanya Full Moon Cabernet and Legacy Series Chardonnays to join Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine in the fullness of time (the classification assumes a history of 10 vintages).

Biodynamic benefits

Does making the Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon detract from Diana Madeline? Not for Cullen, who says that Margaret River’s well-drained soils and maritime climate (the estate is just 5km from the ocean) means ‘the fruit ripens naturally every year to complete physiological ripeness’. She says Cabernet quality has increased thanks to biodynamic cultivation and Scott Henry trellising, which give more even quality in the vineyards,

Biodynamic viticulture has advanced flavour ripeness in the Cabernet in particular. Consequently, alcohol levels have dropped and the wines are fresher and resolutely medium-bodied, meaning less oak is needed. All this, says Cullen, amplifies ‘the very loud voice of the vineyard,’ with its signature floral, mineral and chocolate notes.

With drier profiles than their peers, Diana Madeline and Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon will appeal to Bordeaux lovers. Though long-lived, the ultra-refined tannins and remarkable fruit purity make them relatively accessible early on.

While Cullen’s reds show restraint, Kevin John Chardonnay is flamboyant. Its fruit purity, concentration and drive typifies Western Australia’s low yielding Gin Gin clone.

Eschewing the trend for tighter, reductive styles, Cullen observes that the winery ‘has not moved much.’ The same can be said of Margaret River’s most famous example, Leeuwin Estate’s imposing Art Series Chardonnay from Wallcliffe. Still, the two could not be more different. Wilyabrup’s warmer microclimate and Cullen’s less interventionist winemaking (natural primary and malolactic ferments, and less oak) produce curvaceous, sensual Chardonnay.

Cullen Wines: Factbox

Founded 1971 by Kevin and Diana Cullen

Location Wilyabrup, Margaret River

Vineyards Dry-farmed, certified biodynamic

• Cullen Vineyard
  Area 28ha, planted in 1971, 1976, 1988
  Varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc
• Mangan Vineyard
  Area 21ha, planted in 1995, 1997
  Varieties Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Verdelho

Soils Granite and gravelly, sandy loam, overlaying lateritic subsoils

Cullen Wines: new releases and flagship back vintages

Updated in September 2021, with eight tasting notes on the latest releases.

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Looking out over Santa Monica Bay and the city, this Los Angeles vineyard property is a rare find, according to its for-sale listing by Gerard Bisignano of Vista Sotheby’s International Realty.

With a list price of $16.5m (£11.9m), it’s been dubbed the ‘house of dreams’ thanks to a translation of the Greek word in the property’s name, ‘Villa Oneiro’.

Luxury elements include a new outdoor pool with sun loungers and a variety of terraces for admiring the views – or perhaps planning that hobby vineyard project.

There are six bedrooms spread across the 6,200-square-foot main residence, set on around two hectares (five acres) of land in the Rolling Hills area of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, south-west of LA city.

Vineyards were planted in 2006 and there are around 2,500 vines each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that are currently used to create 275 cases of wine per year, according to the listing.

Vines are planted across different ‘microclimate’ sites on the property, with several on slopes stretching down from the main residence.

To complete the Mediterranean feel on the edge of LA, there are also 85 olive trees capable of making around 250 litres of olive oil.

As part of a sustainability focus brought by the current owners, there is an organic farm and herb garden that have been used to supply local restaurants.

As of July 2021, the Palos Verdes Peninsula has been officially designated an American Viticultural Area, or AVA.

According to a petition for the AVA sent by local winemakers to the US Alcohol & Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), ‘The climate of the proposed Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA is “Mediterranean warm,” which is characterised by warm, dry summers and mild winters with limited rainfall.’

Alongside Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it said conditions were also suitable for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

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Private property on Napa’s Ovid estate sold for $18.5m

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Four years after selling the Ovid wine estate to iconic Californian wine brand Silver Oak the owners of a stunning property on the famed Pritchard Hill estate in Napa Valley have accepted an offer for their house.

Sellers Mark Nelson and Dana Johnson sold their cult vineyard and winery Ovid to Silver Oak in 2017 and now they have fetched £18.5m (£13.5m) for their private property, which was designed by renowned architect Howard Backen.

Located behind the gates of Ovid Winery on the highly sought after Pritchard Hill near St Helena, this stunning 65 hectare property boasts 360-degree views across the Napa Valley from the main house and also comes with two private guest houses.

Estate agent Ginger Martin describes the property as ‘quintessential Howard Backen through and through, the iconic views and private location make this compound more than a wine country getaway, it is the destination.’

Both the main house and guesthouses have spacious outdoor courtyards anchored by large outdoor fireplaces. The main house features a large swimming pool with breathtaking views of the Napa Valley.

In 2017 Silver Oak purchased the Ovid winery and six hectares of vineyards from Nelson and Johnson for an undisclosed sum and have been running the Ovid brand ever since.

At the time Silver Oak CEO David Duncan told Wine Spectator: ‘This was a great opportunity to perpetuate the brand. Our feeling is that expressive vineyard sites are rare.’

The Duncan family founded Silver Oak in 1972 and Ovid is their first acquisition, although in 1999 they founded the Twomey Cellars brand ‘to craft wines from new varietals and dynamic vineyards.’

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The Hunter Valley vineyard property has been put up for sale as industry veteran David Hook and his partner, Sherry Watt, seek to cut down on their workload, a listing statement said.

The news comes around one month after well-known name Tulloch Wines was reportedly put up for sale in the Australian region, north of Sydney.

Hunter Valley is ‘undergoing significant generational change’, according to a press statement on the sale of David Hook Wines, which has been producing wines for more than 35 years.

‘It’s always with mixed emotions that these properties come to market after so much hard work, but equally it represents a very exciting opportunity for the next generation,’ said Adam Morris, listing agent for David Hook Wines and affiliated to Christie’s International Real Estate.

Lying on 103 hectares of land, David Hook Wines includes two residences, a winery and an eight-hectare ‘ultra-premium’ vineyard first planted in 1982.

Grape varieties include the classic trio of Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz, but also 0.5ha each of Pinot Grigio and Barbera that were planted in 2018.

A further 50 hectares have been ‘earmarked’ for future planting, and regulatory approval has been obtained for a cellar door to welcome visitors and wine tasters, according to the listing.

An asking price has not been disclosed, however. The vendors ‘wish the price guide to remain confidential and only disclosed to qualified buyers,’ said Morris, who is a specialist vineyard broker in the area.

While some wine properties around the world may be sold more as ‘hobby’ vineyard estates, this listing may present an opportunity for buyers seeking a more commercial or substantial operation.

‘The focus [at David Hook Wines] has been squarely on incremental improvement in the vineyard, making excellent wines and selling through an established distribution network,’ said Morris.

For existing wine industry players, this listing could be a ‘highly lucrative turnkey operation which will comfortably fund itself under current interest rate settings’, he added.

Speaking to Decanter via email, Morris said that there were a range of Hunter Valley wine properties, potentially presenting different options for prospective buyers should any come up for sale.

These include larger family-held estates but also hotel and hospitality businesses that produce wine as part of their operations, as well as vineyard estates more at the ‘lifestyle’ end of the market – the latter potentially attracting buyers looking to move up from Sydney.

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Lying in a quiet, rural setting just outside of Sonoma, this hobby vineyard estate also includes olive trees and a 40-foot outdoor pool.

‘Rarely does a property such as this become available,’ according to the listing by Carol Sebastiani for Sotheby’s International Realty’s wine country brokerage.

Listed for $4.495m, the property covers around 1.6 hectares (four acres) with a three-bedroom, farmhouse-style main residence.

There’s also a guest house, close by to the 600-vine ‘hobby’ vineyard planted to the Petite Sirah grape variety – also known as ‘Durif’.

Images reveal an estate surrounded by trees, hills and other vineyards with lots of outdoor seating options for that sunset glass of wine – from a terrace to sofa-style seats and also sun loungers around the pool.

While there’s no winery on-site, Petite Sirah is known for its ability to produce relatively full-bodied, robust red wines, and California is one of the key regions for the variety around the world.

There were around 4,841 hectares (just under 12,000 acres) of Petite Sirah planted across the state in 2020, according to a recent US government report.

It said around 276 of those hectares (683 acres) were in Sonoma County.

So-called hobby vineyards don’t have a strict definition on the property market.

As previously reported, it is generally assumed that a buyer doesn’t need to generate their main income from the grapes, and may not need the wine side of things to make a commercial profit.

Alternatively, it might involve the vineyards being managed by a third party.

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Buying a French vineyard can cost you wildly different amounts, depending on such things as the prestige of the appellation, health of the vines and any property, branding or stocks that go with them.

All the same, recently updated figures from French land agency Safer suggest that dream of buying a Burgundy grand cru vineyard might have just moved a little further into the distance.

A single hectare of grand cru vines in the Côte d’Or was valued at €6.765m on average in 2020, up 4% versus 2019, according to Safer’s prix des terres data. That’s if you can find anything to buy, of course.

If that you think that sounds prohibitive, then some winemakers might agree. There have been concerns about rising land costs and the associated difficulties of navigating France’s inheritance laws.

Across France, a hectare of appellation vineyard cost an average €150,500 in 2020 – or around €78,000 if Champagne is excluded.

Champagne made up 52% of the value of all appellation vineyards in France in 2020, despite only accounting for 7% of the planted surface area, Safer said in its latest annual report on land prices.

Its figures show the most expensive area was Côte des Blancs, where vines cost €1.6m per hectare in 2020, albeit down 3% versus 2019.

Overall vineyard value in Champagne dropped by around 1% last year, mainly due to the market impact of Covid-19 on demand for the region’s wines, said Safer.

Some of the biggest price increases in 2020 were seen in key Bordeaux appellations.

Beyond Champagne and grand cru Burgundy, here are 10 other appellation groups that are among the most expensive in France:

• Pauillac: €2.8m / ha, up 22%
• Pomerol: 2m up 5%
• Premier cru white Burgundy (Côte d’Or): €1.69m, up 2%
• St-Julien: €1.6m, up 23%
• Margaux: €1.5m, up 15%
• Côte-Rôtie: €1.15m, stable
• Pessac-Léognan: €600,000, up 20%
• St-Estèphe: €550,000, stable
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape: €450,000, stable
• St-Emilion: €300,000, up 3%

However, there is a huge disparity in vineyard prices in France.

Prices for AOP vineyards have more than doubled since 1997, but some are still well below the average.

In the Hérault department of Languedoc, for example, AOP vineyard land cost €17,500 per hectare on average last year, level with 2019.

Prices can vary for different plots, depending upon their location and quality potential.

Provence has seen an influx of high-profile buyers in the last couple of years.

Prices can average up to €100,000 per hectare for Côtes de Provence vines within touching distance of the Côte d’Azur, but AOP vines in the Var area in general were around €60,000 per hectare.

Outside of the AOP zones, overall French vineyard prices averaged €14,500 per hectare, said Safer.

It’s worth noting that buying a vineyard is just one step in a winemaking dream that could involve significant up-front costs. Seek professional advice before making any decisions, of course.

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Terroir and environmental practices joined the importance of appellation and classification when setting Bordeaux vineyard prices in 2020, according to the latest study by Safer, the French land agency and agricultural body.

This annual report, released in early June, is always an interesting moment, even more so after a year that put unprecedented pressures on the wine industry and agriculture in general.

It showed that prices of top Bordeaux vineyard land proved remarkably robust – with eight top-name estates accounting for 72% of the value of all Bordeaux vineyard sales in 2020. I’m guessing we can include Vray Croix de Gay, Le Prieuré, Mazèyres and maybe du Tertre within that, if the signature for du Tertre was complete at the end of last year.

It means we can expect classified and equivalent vines to remain sought after by big business in the years to come.

But there were also fascinating trends at the lower level that show just how responsive the price of land is to wider realities.

In total across France, 14,600 hectares (ha) of vineyard land was sold for €861m in 2020, spread over 8,190 individual sales. That translates to an average of around €110,000 per hectare, rising to an average of €150,000 for AOC vines.

In the Bordeaux region, the average overall price of a hectare of vines was up 4.7% compared to 2019, to €128,500 per hectare.

The same eight large sales cited above accounted for this rise, and helped the average price of vines in Pauillac, Pomerol, St-Julien and Margaux combined to rise by 8.9%.

Yet the number of individual transactions across Bordeaux dropped by 15%, with 300 sales compared to 550 in 2019. Just over 1,700ha changed hands (compared to around 2,000ha in 2019) – with the drop in both numbers of transactions and prices most evident in the smaller appellations.

This means, perhaps depressingly, that the trends of the past few years have widened even further. Pomerol rose by 5% to an average of €1.9m per ha, with Pessac-Léognan up 20% to €600,000/ha (€750,000/ha at the top end), and Pauillac up a staggering 22% to €2.8m.

Meanwhile, Côtes de Bourg, Blaye and Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux have all seen prices drop by 10% to, respectively, €19,000/ha, €16,000/ha and €14,000/ha.

The generic Médoc appellations are also strongly down – AOC Médoc down 20% to €40,000/ha average and Haut-Médoc down 13% to €65,000/ha.

Look closer, though, and you start to see some fascinating trends.

Certified organic estates, as long as they are in good health and well looked after, managed to attract well above the average price, rising to €22,000/ha in the Côtes.

And terroir counts, too. Even conventionally-farmed estates on good terroirs reached €15,000-20,000 across the Côtes, while those that are on less impressive soils, or in zones that have regularly been hit by frost in recent vintages, slid right down in some cases to €4,000/ha.

Frost hitting Bordeaux vineyard prices

The frost risk factor is impacting prices across the board. In AOC Graves, where the average price remains at €34,000/ha, there is a significant split between the best gravel outcrops that reached up to €50,000/ha, compared to sandier soils that are more exposed to frost and where the average price dropped down to €25,000.

Frost risk may also play a factor in the widening price disparity between Moulis and Listrac.

The more exposed AOC Listrac saw prices drop by 7% to €65,000/ha on average in 2020.

It’s interesting to see this in the context of Bruno Borie choosing as of the 2020 vintage to label his Listrac estates under AOC Haut-Médoc for the newly-created Madame de Beaucaillou wine.

In AOC Moulis, which has more gravel terraces and is closer to the Gironde Estuary in the main, prices were stable at €80,000/ha on average.

Another pair of appellations to see a similar widening of fortunes include AOC Fronsac, which after three years of stability dropped slightly to €28,000/ha from €30,000/ha, and AOC Canon-Fronsac, which remained stable at €100,000/ha.

Terroir influencing vineyard prices

The rise of terroir as a genuine indicator of price outside of classified Bordeaux is also seen by the fact that within the Côtes, only Castillon resisted the general drop in prices, mainly because local St-Emilion names have been buying up there.

I can think of the de Boüards at Angélus as one example, although the recently launched Tempo d’Angélus wine is for now being bottled as AOC Bordeaux.

You see the same story in St-Emilion, with Safer reporting that buyers are increasingly picky about terroir.

The less attractive sectors in the appellation are stable at €250,000/ha, while the most prestigious parts head up to €3.7million/ha.

Sauternes holds steady

Sauternes and Barsac are still struggling, although have not dropped further over the past year and remain at €30,000/ha on average.

They were, no doubt, not helped by the fact that the Covid-related travel bans have put the brakes on the wine tourism developments at estates such as Guiraud and Lafaurie-Peyraguey.

The less prestigious sweet wine appellations of Loupiac and Saint-Croix du Mont continue to be the least expensive AOCs in Bordeaux, dropping to €12,000/ha from €13,000/ha.

Classified Bordeaux ‘defies gravity’

And above all, the land of classified Bordeaux continues to defy gravity. AOC Pauillac stands at €2.8m/ha average, up 22% in a year. The best terroirs of the appellation are up even more strongly, by around 35%, mostly accounted for by purchases of land by existing classified estates.

As there are less and less independent estates to buy from, Safer expects this to upward price trajectory to continue.

Similarly, AOC St-Julien was up 23% to €1.6m/ha on average, with the best vines up to around €2m/ha, and AOC Margaux was up 15% to €1.5m/ha, with the best terroir going up to €2.5m/ha. Again, the rise in Margaux was influenced by existing estates buying up land, such as Château d’Issan buying Pontac-Lynch.

AOC Pomerol rivals Pauillac with prices of up to €2m/ha on average. The very best spots have the highest prices in Bordeaux at €7m/ha, while the the lowest price was still at €1.3m/ha.

Are there any bargains left?

Well, you still have AOC Lalande de Pomerol just next door to Pomerol that is up just 4% to €250,000/ha average. That just about maintains it as one of the (relative) bargains in the region, especially the best clay soils of Néac.

And finally, St-Estèphe has remained stable at €1m/ha average for the best spots, with prices at €400,000 for cooler clay soils – surely a buying opportunity for someone who believes global warming is only going one way…?

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A vineyard and residential property in Portugal’s highly prized Douro valley is on the market priced at £1.2m (€1.4m).

With stunning views over the Douro Valley and of the estate’s own vineyards, the Vila Marim property spans 10.5 hectares (26 acres) of which 9.25 is under vine.

The vineyards’ south-facing slopes are planted with classic Portuguese varieties Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional and Malvaviafina, perfect for the production of Port or still red wines.

The house itself dates back to 1758, and the property for sale comprises part of the original house, split across two floors and offering two bedrooms and two bathrooms, plus panoramic views of the vineyards and valley.

According to the estate agent the basement of the property has space for 50 wine barrels – so could potentially be used for winemaking – and on the estate there are various outbuildings and a chapel dedicated to Saint Lawrence.

The area

The Douro vineyard and property is being sold by Christie’s International Real Estate. It is located in the Vila Marim countryside, one hour from Porto, and in the heart of one of Portugal’s most famous wine-producing regions.

‘Vineyards like the one we are listing here are often bought by foreign clients for the purpose of private enjoyment or to monetise investment in the tourism sector in a region that has national and international demand all year round,’ Christie’s told Decanter.

There are lots of options when it comes to buying a vineyard, as discussed in Decanter‘s recent How to buy a vineyard guide. 

Key questions for buyers include whether they intend to run a commercial operation or are content for the vineyard to ‘wash its face’ financially; in other words, not necessarily needing to make a profit but equally wanting to avoid heavy losses.

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This week’s property inspiration features a luxury ‘hobby farm’ vineyard nestled in the hills near to Healdsburg in northern California’s Sonoma County. 

Listed this month at $3.795m by Kaaren Atkin for Healdsburg Sotheby’s International Realty, the estate has a four-bedroom main residence surrounded by vines and forest. 

With vineyards currently managed by a third party, this could be all about enjoying the wine country lifestyle without the added pressure of overseeing the vines. 

But it may also offer the possibility of seeing the grape growing cycle up-close, and learning more about the work involved.

You’ll also find an outdoor lap pool and hot tub overlooking the scenery, not to forget a treehouse-style terrace that looks to have clear aperitif potential. A separate barn building on the estate has guest accommodation.

There are around 2.8 hectares (seven acres) of vineyard planted at relatively high elevation on the property, curving with the contours of the hillside stretching down from the house.

A Sotheby’s spokesperson told Decanter that the vineyard is primarily planted to Zinfandel with the classic ‘Rhone’ varietals of Syrah, Grenache and Viognier also featuring.

Grapes have been sold to premium boutique winery Adobe Road for more than 15 years, according to Sotheby’s. 

‘The vineyard is currently under a lease management agreement with the long-time vineyard manager,’ the spokesperson added.

The current owners have previously made their own wine but there is no winery on-site at present. However, ‘The barn has a wine laboratory for an owner’s enjoyment.’

There are lots of options when it comes to buying a vineyard, as discussed in a recent feature in Decanter magazine’s latest issue.

Key questions for buyers include whether they intend to run a commercial operation or are content for the vineyard to ‘wash its face’ financially; in other words, not necessarily needing to make a profit but equally wanting to avoid heavy losses. 

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Could you ever really buy a vineyard property? It’s something every wine lover has thought about, so we quizzed brokers from Provence to California about some of the key market dynamics and what is available.

Bordeaux’s ‘hobby vineyards’

Eagle-eyed entrepreneurs in Bordeaux have seen opportunities to renovate properties with a view to meeting demand for so-called ‘hobby vineyards’, says estate agency VineyardsBordeaux. It’s a loose term, but a hobby vineyard owner probably doesn’t need to make a profit from the grapes or the wine, says Michael Baynes, executive partner and co-founder of Vineyards-Bordeaux, which is affiliated to Christie’s International Real Estate.

It might not even be the buyer’s primary residence. And the house will likely constitute more than 50% of the transaction value, according to a broad definition outlined by the Christie’s ‘Masters Circle’ of global property specialists. Properties like this are generally going to include a few hectares of vines and a well-presented residence, whether it’s a small house or a full-on château building.

In Bordeaux, Baynes says hobby vineyard buyers are often willing to spend more for a ‘turnkey’ estate. Essentially, you can turn up with your toothbrush rather than having to worry about potentially expensive renovations before taking up residence.

He says the sweet spot for this kind of estate is in the region of €3.5m to €4m (£3m-£3.4m), although prices do naturally vary. Bordeaux’s Right Bank and Entre-deux-Mers throw up the most opportunities. St-Emilion is unsurprisingly a ‘hotbed’ in terms of demand, but the Côtes de Bordeaux appellation in general is an interesting area to look at, according to Baynes.

Buyers include ‘people from all walks of life’, he says. Profiles include ‘wine enthusiasts who recognise that they love wine but don’t know how to make it’, and who ‘might have done WSET [qualifications]’

Or it might be ‘somebody who loves the wine lifestyle’ but only wants to stay at the estate a few weeks per year, perhaps for meetings or entertaining. Baynes recalls selling a property to a NATO diplomat ‘who needed to be in the Europe arena’ for military and political meetings.

Some people want to get really geeky about the wine side, and don’t mind spending serious money to create their boutique brand. ‘We had a Goldman Sachs director who absolutely fell in love with the vineyards and the wine,’ recounts Baynes. ‘He just wanted a really outstanding winery, and he didn’t mind if it wasn’t commercially profitable.’

Other buyers are seeking a whole lifestyle change. Several estate agents speak of people reassessing lifestyles in light of the Covid-19 crisis – often looking to move out of cities.

Opportunities: from Tuscany to Provence

Provence is an example of a ‘booming’ vineyard market, says Adam Dakin, director of the Wine Objectives agency – he covers most of southern France from Languedoc to Côte-Rôtie and St-Tropez. Rosé’s popularity has helped. Recent notable deals include businessman Stéphane Courbit joining with Bordeaux’s Prats family to buy Château d’Estoublon, and Château Cos d’Estournel owner Michel Reybier purchasing Château La Mascaronne.

Prices can vary significantly, however. Speaking purely about the vineyard land, Dakin says the northern Var region (Provence) averages about €80,000 (£69,000) per hectare. But it’s €150,000 (£130,000) per hectare nearer the coast – and the glamour of the Côte d’Azur.

Across the Italian border, Tuscany’s rolling hills, vineyards and olive groves make for another top destination. Gemma Bruce, MD and co-founder of Italian property specialist Casa & Country, says there are a mix of lifestyle estates with vines and more commercial wine properties. You could get a residence with a hectare of vines and some olive groves for about €1.5m (£1.3m). But prices stretch up to several times that figure, too. ‘The more developed and well maintained it is, prices go up quickly,’ says Bruce.

‘We are working with a couple of groups of investors,’ she says. Whether it’s friends or colleagues who share a passion for wine, one option is to buy a place that’s been used for holiday rentals, and then everyone can have their own apartment. ‘A lot of properties [coming up for sale] have been owned by the same family for a long time,’ Bruce adds. These often need work, however. Vines might need to be replanted or winery equipment upgraded, for example

Could you buy a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG vineyard? ‘They don’t come up very often,’ admits Bruce. In several vineyard regions, highly prized plots or estates might not even be publicly listed for sale. Montalcino, Chianti and Montepulciano have an understandable pull for buyers, particularly for anyone looking to sell wine. It depends on a buyer’s needs, but Bruce adds you might also get ‘more for your money’ away from those key areas.

Location naturally affects prices. Over in the US, in northern California, Kevin McDonald, of Kevin M Properties and Sotheby’s International Realty, says a nice estate property with a hectare or more in Sonoma County could be about $3m or more.

Prices start at closer to $1.5m further north in Mendocino County. In Napa, a similar property could be up at $6m-$7m. McDonald says there are definitely luxurious lifestyle estates available in northern California ranging from, say, 2ha-8ha. Yet it’s important to pay attention to grape contracts and the supply situation if you’re hoping to commercialise the property.

Buying a vineyard on a tighter budget?

There might not be a moat, infinity pool or helipad – for now – but there are ways to get into the vineyard world without spending millions. One is to just buy the vines. Dakin highlights a 10ha vineyard in Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc, listed for €300,000.

French land agency Safer said last year that AP vineyards in France (excluding Champagne) cost an average €74,900/ha in 2019. Many areas were well below this, with averages of €20,000 in Ventoux, southern Rhône; €16,000 in Faugères, Languedoc; and €12,000 in Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Loire.

Dakin adds that beginning a négociant-style operation without a vineyard is another way of dipping into the wine scene. ‘You can start a business on a shoestring, but if you want to make it from your own vineyards then you’ve got to have capital and be prepared to wait a few years.’

There are several ways to run the winemaking. If it’s a hobby vineyard that’s just for fun, then having a go yourself could be part of the experience. On a more commercial level – even if you don’t expect a profit – you might outsource the process to a local cooperative and buy some wine back under your own label.

Other options range from fully employing staff, contracting out vineyard work or recruiting winemaking specialists to help. However you go about it, running a vineyard can be hard work. That said, Decanter has previously featured wine lovers who have successfully made the leap. It’s great to dream, but take the plunge in the cold light of day.

And a few vineyard properties to inspire you:

Luxury Aix-en-Provence vineyard estate for sale

Provence mansion with vineyard land listed for €1.8m

Luxury Sonoma vineyard estate listed for $10.9m

Piedmont wine property for sale at €1,850,000

English Pinot Noir vineyard listed for sale

Buying a vineyard: The nuts and bolts to keep in mind

Legislation and procedures vary from area to area, even within the same country, and estate agencies and local brokers can often provide help in this regard. Here are a few important aspects to consider, especially from a commercial point of view.

What’s your strategy?

Is this just for fun? Do you want to make wine commercially? Do you even like Provence rosé? If you want to distribute wines directly, it could be time to look up that sommelier you once met. Adam Dakin of Wine Objectives adds: ‘What is the market you’re going to be aiming at?’ Check licensing laws, too.

Do you homework

Make time for due diligence. ‘Do the right homework at the outset,’ says Casa & Country’s Gemma Bruce. This might include estimated running costs or a vineyard health check. If you want to sell grapes, is there a contract already in place? Are the vines fit for your intended purpose? In northern California, it might cost $25,000-$50,000 per acre (0.4ha) to replant, says Kevin McDonald of Kevin M Properties.

Planting and rights

Vine planting is regulated in the EU. ‘Don’t presume you can plant vines without having the rights,’ says Bruce, adding that it is sometimes possible to get state funding to replant older vineyards in Italy. EU rules have been relaxed slightly in recent years. ‘That’s why you’re starting to see people planting outside Paris,’ says Dakin. Yet it can take several years for newly planted vines to translate into wine.

Get specialist advice

From a trusted broker and specialist lawyer to a viticulture or environmental consultant, seek expert help. Even the best do this; the founders of Languedoc’s nowfamous Mas de Daumas Gassac, Aimé Guibert and his wife Véronique planted Cabernet Sauvignon on the advice of geologist Professor Henri Enjalbert in the early 1970s.

Check your insurance

If it’s potentially a commercial grape-growing operation, ‘a lot of lenders will want to see crop insurance in place’, says McDonald. This advice seems particularly pertinent in the context of extreme weather patterns related to climate change.

Stock take

Check if existing wine stocks are included in the listing price or not. ‘Negotiating [existing] stock is always difficult,’ says Dakin.

Provence is a hot destination for buyers seeking vineyard estates, and there are a range of options available.

While last week’s vineyard property piece featured a fixer-upper-style ‘bastide’ in the region, this Provençal estate is an example of a more ready-made option.

Lying 20 minutes from Aix-en-Provence and covering 36 hectares of land, there’s a 16th century farmhouse with seven bedrooms and an outdoor pool with views across the vines, shows the listing by Christie’s International Real Estate and local affiliate agency Michaël Zingraf.

There are also 10 hectares of vineyards planted to a range of grape varieties, plus fruit trees and lavender – completing the classic Provençal feel.

It’s a case of ‘price upon request’, however.

An independent apartment and a caretaker’s house have several rooms, and there is a building permit in order for a prospective buyer ‘to develop the wine business’, according to the listing.

That could be interesting for anyone with a Provence rosé wine hobby project in mind.

Provence vineyard prices: A mixed bag

In terms of vineyard land only, headline deals in recent years have led to prices rising in some areas of Provence, notably near to the coast, said French land agency Safer in a report last year.

In the Var area, some Côtes de Provence AOP vineyards might cost up to €150,000 per hectare in 2019, but the lowest-priced sites were around €35,000, Safer said.

AOP Coteaux d’Aix en Provence vineyard land in the Bouches-du-Rhône area cost €37,000 per hectare on average in 2019, having only risen slightly from €30,000 back in 2012, showed Safer figures.

It can be hard to translate these prices into specific estates, however. Vineyard sites can cause values to vary, as can a range of other factors, from the health of the vines to the residence and facilities.

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George Clooney’s Provence vineyard deal faces delay – reports

See our ‘how to buy a vineyard’ feature in the latest issue of Decanter magazine

Provence vineyard estates have been hot property recently, from news of George Clooney’s possible arrival to deals involving prominent French businessmen and wine families.

This Provencal ‘bastide’ comes with 10 hectares, which includes five hectares of unplanted vineyard land that can be used for IGP-certified vines. 

Listed by the Wine Objectives agency for around €1.8m (£1.55m), it’s a property that lies more at the fixer-upper end of the market. 

‘Whilst in need of modernising and refurbishment, it offers enormous potential with a beautiful courtyard shaded by century-old plane trees and parklands with swimming pool,’ according to the listing.

Alongside the five hectares of plantable IGP vineyard land, another 4.8ha could be added to the deal, the agency said.

An outbuilding at the property could also be turned into a winery, it added.

That could appeal to anyone with dreams of creating a vineyard or wine in their own image.

But planting vines from scratch requires patience and upfront investment, too. It can take several years before newly planted vines translate into wine bottles in your cellar, for instance.

Speaking to Decanter magazine for a recent feature on buying vineyards, Wine Objectives’ Adam Dakin and other estate agents around the world highlighted the different options open to prospective buyers looking to get involved in the wine scene.

Strategies vary from buying only the vineyards and working with local partners to make the wines or seeking more of a lifestyle ‘hobby’ project that comes with a high-spec residence and a few hectares of vines.

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Luxury Sonoma vineyard estate listed for sale at $10.9m

Piedmont villa and wine property on sale for €1.85m

English Pinot Noir vineyard comes up for sale

The Sonoma vineyard property, known as Two Creeks Farm, was listed for sale online this week by local agent Daniel Casabonne and Sotheby’s International Realty. 

With a price tag of $10.9m, it’s very much at the luxury lifestyle end of the Sonoma vineyard property market. 

Lying in Kenwood, north of Sonoma, a six-bedroom main house comes with landscaped gardens and around three hectares (7.5 acres) of vineyards, according to the listing. 

It says there is already a winemaker overseeing the vines and that grapes are sold to Pangloss Cellars, which makes a range of premium wines from across Sonoma County, and also from vineyards in Anderson Valley further north.

The property also has a barn that is a permitted winery building, the listing adds.

Alongside the vineyards, there’s a 75ft-long ‘lap’ swimming pool, a bocce court, a sauna and orchards. 

There’s also a two-bed ensuite guest house. 

A report by Sotheby’s earlier this year said demand for California wine country properties had remained strong. 

So-called ‘urban flight’ and a shift to working from home during the Covid-19 pandemic have led to more buyers seeking to move away from cities and into Napa and Sonoma Counties in general, it said. 

Similar trends have been reported by estate agents in other wine regions, including Tuscany. 

Sotheby’s said its average selling price for property in Sonoma Valley in the first quarter of 2021 was $1.2m, up by 35% on the same period of 2020. 

When it comes to buying vineyard property specifically, however, there are several factors to consider – particularly if a buyer intends to pursue a commercial project.

They include how the vines are to be managed, keeping track of the latest developments on the wine market and whether there are supply contracts on the grapes, as noted in a feature on buying vineyards in the new issue of Decanter magazine. 

More recent property articles on Decanter.com

Piedmont wine property for sale at €1.85m

English Pinot Noir vineyard goes on sale

Boutique Italian vineyard in the hills of Friuli listed for sale

A wine property in Italy’s northwest Piedmont region has gone up for sale for €1,850,000. Although no wine has been produced here in recent years, the winery is still equipped with its oak barrels, steel tanks, bottling machine and press.

The current vineyard plantings are 0.5ha each of Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc within the Monferrato DOC, and 1.5ha of Barbera within the Barbera d’Asti DOCG – plus a further 4ha that could be planted.

The property is a villa with two main living areas; the first with four bedrooms and three bathrooms, and the other with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, plus a covered terrace. It also comes with its own swimming pool.

As well as the villa, there is a separate smaller guest house, which the sellers suggest using as a holiday rental. That house has a kitchen, living room, three bedrooms and a bathroom.

Interest in the area

This property in Piedmont is being sold by Langhe Property. It is located near the historic town of Nizza, around half an hour each from Barolo, Asti and Alba, according to Langhe Property’s listing.

‘Just before the pandemic got its grip on the world we were seeing unprecedented interest from people all over the world wanting to buy homes in Piedmont. Already, the areas of Langhe, Roero and Monferatto had been attracting well-deserved attention,’ Richard Edwards of Langhe Property told Decanter.com.

‘We’re now selling homes, vineyard and wineries like never before, even to buyers that can’t get to the area at the moment. We anticipate a monumental interest once the travel bans have been lifted.’

‘The increase we were seeing before was special. But definitely, Covid has changed things, people want to enjoy their lives. It’s a good way to invest.’

In Tuscany, estate agents were seeing up to four-times more interest in properties as a result of the pandemic. 

Look out for the ‘How to buy a vineyard’ feature in the upcoming issue of Decanter, on sale May 5.

The vineyard, based in Shrawley, Worcesterhire, and covering nearly five hectares (12 acres), supplies grapes for Sixteen Ridges wines. Grape varieties include Pinot Noir, plus ‘Pinot Noir early’ – or Précoce – and Seyval Blanc.

Around half of the vines were planted in 2008/2009, according to the listing brochure, with the other half planted more recently and set to yield a full crop in 2022. 

The vines have recently come onto the market as part of a broader sale of 40.4 hectares of land (99.76 acres) at Church farm estate – carrying an overall guide price of £1.25m, according to listing agency Fisher German.

Wines made from the vineyard’s grapes include ‘Pinot Noir Early’ red and Pinot Noir rosé, as well as sparkling. They are produced by Haygrove Evolution at its winery in Ledbury. 

Tom Pike, associate director of Fisher German, said the Sixteen Ridges brand name was not included in the sale.

‘We have the right sort of soil, and the fields involved are south and south-east facing and that combination has proved very successful,’ said John Ballard, who established the vineyard in 2008 but is now preparing to step back from farming after more than 50 years.

‘We had intended to produce wine and we have what is needed to do that, but the partnership with Haygrove Evolution has proved mutually beneficial and the wines are highly-regarded,’ said Ballard. 

Simon Day, MD at Haygrove, helped Ballard to set up the vineyard during his time as a consultant at Church farm.

‘We established our wine brand to ensure that we could use the grapes the vineyard has supplied rather than the other way around,’ he said.

‘We have developed a very close working relationship which has resulted in many award-winning wines.’

While managing a vineyard can be a challenging endeavour, the UK wine industry has seen rapid growth in the past decade.

In a report in September 2020, Simon Robinson, chairman of Wines of Great Britain, said there had inevitably been serious setbacks due to the economic impact of Covid-19, but he added that ‘we remain broadly positive for the future’.

Based on survey data, the trade body estimated 5.5 million bottles of English and Welsh wines were sold in 2019, growing from some 3.2 million bottles in 2018 – ‘an increase of over 70%’. Vineyard plantings have also risen strongly in the last 15 years or so.

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Boutique Italian vineyard for sale in the hills of Friuli

Wine château in Ventoux for sale

This boutique vineyard estate in Friuli could be an interesting white wine hobby project, provided you can tear yourself away from the panoramic views – and the outdoor pool.

You’ll also find olive groves and a fruit orchard alongside terraced vines on three hectares of land nestled into the hillside in Collio in Friuli Venezia-Giulia, in the far north-east of Italy close to the Slovenian border.

With an asking price of €1.995m, it’s one of the recent wine and vineyards properties that has been listed by Christie’s International Real Estate, in partnership with its Italian affiliate, Romolini Immobiliare.

Vineyards are planted to a mix of Ribolla Gialla, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia and Sauvignon Vert, which also goes by the name of Friulano.

There are enough vines to make around 5,000 bottles of wine per year, according to the listing.

There’s a cellar beneath the two-floor main house, whether for storing your own wines or those of other top producers in the region.

The celebrated Jermann winery, recently acquired by Antinori, is a short drive away, for instance.

Christie’s and Romolini highlighted several potential uses for their listed Friuli vineyard estate.

There are two separate, two-storey buildings alongside the main residence, and these could be used for guests or one could be converted to make wine and olive oil.

Producing wine is no mean feat, however. The listing says it’s also possible to outsource the vineyard work.

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Hobby vineyards: A new must-have for wealthy wine lovers? 

Luxury Cabernet estate in Sonoma County listed for sale

Picturesque wine château in Ventoux for sale 

This ‘distinguished’ vineyard estate in Geyserville represents the luxury end of wine property in Sonoma County, northern California.

It’s been under the same family ownership for 30 years and has grape supply contracts in place with a number of well-known wineries and producers, according to the listing by Sheri Morgensen and Jessica Wynne, for Sotheby’s International Realty’s San Francisco office.

The price, however, is only available to prospective buyers ‘upon request’.

A swimming pool and a three-bedroom, modern farmhouse-style residence are the centre of a property that stretches across 125 hectares (309 acres) within the Alexander Valley AVA.

There are 28.7 hectares (71 acres) of planted vineyard, and a Sotheby’s spokesperson told Decanter that Cabernet Sauvignon is the major grape variety. You’ll also find Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec.

Vineyards are currently managed by a third-party firm, according to the listing.

Lying around 11 miles from Healdsburg Plaza, the estate also includes a tennis court, hiking trails, a pool house and two ponds that can be used for recreation but also provide irrigation for the vines.

There is a Victorian-era ranch house, too, dating to the 1880s.

The listing says the estate is made up of four legally-defined parcels.

Luxury property in demand in Sonoma County, suggests report

A newly released report by US real estate group Concierge Auctions this week said the luxury property market remained strong across the country as a whole in 2020.

Its report doesn’t deal specifically with vineyard estates – which can be a highly specialised part of the market.

However, it nevertheless said that luxury residences in Sonoma County had the lowest average when it came to the number of days a property was listed on the market before a sale.

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Property: Picturesque wine château in Ventoux for sale

Proeprty: California Pinot Noir and yoga hideaway listed for sale

This 29-hectare (ha) property in the Ventoux wine region features a sizeable château, 11.3ha of appellation vines and a swimming pool to help you unwind in sun-kissed southern France.

Listed with a guide price of €6.4m (£5.47m, $7.61m), it’s around one hour from Marseille international airport.

An old winery at the estate has been turned into a private wine cellar, according to the listing by the Wine Objectives agency.

This could be used to house your collection, from bottles of nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Provence rosé.

Yet for any prospective buyers interested in running their own winemaking operation, the listing also says the cellar building can be turned back into a winery ‘without difficulty’.

The vineyard is classified as AOP Ventoux and splits between the classic Rhône varieties of Syrah (7ha) and Grenache (4.3ha).

Wine property in Ventoux: A vineyard prices snapshot

According to a 2020 report by French land agency Safer, vineyard prices in Ventoux have been relatively stable in recent years.

Buyers could expect to pay €20,000 per hectare of appellation vines in 2019, although prices varied from as low as €14,000 and up to €27,000, according to Safer’s report.

At the other end of the scale, the average in Châteauneuf-du-Pape was €450,000 per hectare of vines.

Ventoux wines: Exciting potential

Compared to more famous neighbours, mountainous Ventoux remains relatively under-the-radar in this southern corner of the Rhône.

But it’s also considered a vibrant appellation on the up.

Decanter contributing editor and Rhône expert, Matt Walls, said in 2018 that he would pick Ventoux if he could make wine anywhere.

‘The wines of Ventoux are identifiably Rhône in style, but with a distinctive lifted freshness,’ he wrote. ‘You can successfully make red, white or rosé.’

Making wine, of course, can be a time-consuming and expensive challenge, so it’s worth doing your research on the kind of project you want.

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Multi-generational wineries don’t grow on trees. Human urges to venture out into the world and accomplish something different to that of your parents are common and understandable. Other temptations like selling a successful brand often result in nothing but a name surviving – one that all too often bears little resemblance to its origins.

Gustav and Naoko Dalla Valle purchased their Oakville property in 1982 and established the label in 1986. They achieved success and accolades quickly, entering the market during the explosive popularity of high-end, small-production Napa Valley wineries in the early 1990s.

Scroll down for tasting notes on four vintages of the Dalla Valle estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Maya

They have employed an impressive list of winemakers and consultants, such as Heidi Barrett, Mia Klein, Tony Soter, Philippe Melka, Michel Rolland and Andy Erickson. Gustav passed away in 1995, around the time they released their highly acclaimed 1992 vintage. After some initial uncertainty of the path forward, Naoko took the reins and built Dalla Valle into one of the most sought-after labels in California.

Fast-forward to January 2021, and they are aiming to keep their legacy a family affair. Maya, the only child of Gustav and Naoko – and namesake of their most lauded wine – has assumed the role of winemaker and general manager. Maya now makes Maya. She jokes: ‘It’s like the movie Inception – how many layers of Maya can there be?’

Spreading her wings

As is often the case, it took Maya leaving the life she came from to truly appreciate the beauty of it. ‘When I was growing up, I was surrounded by so much of a good thing that I thought “this can’t be it for me, right?” As a kid, I had free rein to run around the vineyard and learn about farming, but I also wanted to go out see things, travel, and get outside of the Napa Valley bubble.

‘Once I got older, I started to think long-term and about how attached to this place I’d become. My dad had passed away by that point and, as an only child, I thought about what would happen if I didn’t show interest, or at least try to be involved in wine. It took removing myself to realise how much I love it all.’

Before returning home, Maya racked up considerable experience around the globe. She graduated with a degree in viticulture and winemaking from Cornell University and later a master’s degree in vineyard management from Bordeaux Sciences Agro University. After cross-continental stints at Château Latour, Petrus, Ornellaia and Bodega Rolland, she returned to Napa Valley and began managing Dalla Valle.

‘I spent the first year back observing the intricacies of what we do, and I progressively had more input and suggestions. Since the 2017 vintage, I’ve been involved in all aspects – as has my mom. We’re both here every day, walk the vineyard together and are at the sorting line together,’ says Maya.

Vineyards: the key ingredients

Dalla Valle feels like a classic, understated winery rather than the flashier examples with which it is often associated. ‘It’s not a showboat wine,’ says Maya, ‘and we’re a winery built for function, not aesthetics. You don’t need state-of-the-art, fancy equipment to make great wine. It’s about putting time and effort into the ingredients – the vineyards.’

The property sits in the eastern section of Oakville, where wines exude a tighter, more red-fruited character than the round plushness of the western side. ‘The highest elevation is 500 feet (153m), so we’re not a mountainside property. It’s a western exposure, so long hours of sunlight mitigated by cool breezes from San Pablo Bay. A landslide formed our land three million years ago. It continued down through Rudd, Screaming Eagle and Bacchus. We all share similarities, but soil ages and weathers differently.’

The vineyards are split into four zones containing 18 blocks. The majority is Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% is Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Petit Verdot. ‘The Cab Franc for the Maya blend is on the eastern side of the property and faces northeast. The soils are darker, richer and deeper, and don’t have as many volcanic rocks as the western side. They tend to produce wines that are more approachable, fresh, and savoury,’ explains Maya.

Keeping it all in-house

Dalla Valle cuts no corners on farming, employing a full-time vineyard crew that tends to their self-propagated vines. ‘We do all the farming in-house. Our vineyard manager, Edgar Alfaro, lives on the property and has a year-round crew. It allows us to do exactly what we want.

‘We now have a massal selection rather than clones. In the beginning, we used cuttings from Mount Veeder to plant the Maya blocks, although no one thought to write down where they originally came from. They’ve adapted so well to this site that we’ve kept propagating from those original cuttings.

‘Between 1999 and 2007, my mom had to replant the property due to disease pressure. Afterwards, the first thing she did was convert to organic farming which made a big difference. In 2019, we began working biodynamically. My responsibility is to not let replants like that happen again; to guide these vines into becoming old vines.’

In continuity with the shift to using only proprietary ingredients, Dalla Valle is transitioning to natural yeast fermentations. Maya explains: ‘We inoculated with commercial yeast in the past, but now we’re working to make our own cocktail of native yeast, and will eventually use that to replace inoculation altogether.’

After some initial wariness regarding the occasional dice-roll nature of ambient yeasts, the results have shown their upsides. ‘The rate of fermentation was perfect and the aromatics were incredible compared to the inoculated lots,’ she says. ‘If you’re hands-on and pay attention, it’s very simple.’

Continuing the vision

The combination of massal selections, sustainable farming and native ferments is a sort of golden trilogy that ensures a unique profile. The wines can’t help but show a consistent Dalla Valle fingerprint.

Stylistically, the wines are full-bodied and powerful but tethered by understatement and grace. The Cabernet Sauvignon tends toward a red-fruited rigidity, and the Maya a more plush, chocolatey suppleness. Those who prefer firm, structured wines will enjoy them in their youth, but they are built for the cellar. ‘My parents’ view was always that a great wine is one that can age; it’s a testament to the site,’ says Maya.

Maya has a clear understanding of her role in stewarding her family estate into the future. ‘We’ve had great success for the first 30 years for a reason. My mom had a vision and made it happen. It’s not about me coming in now and saying, “This is what people are going to know me for”.’

Dalla Valle is both solidly established yet still in its infancy. The winery came of age during an era of exponential growth and shifting styles in Napa, but has managed to maintain a fairly consistent voice. Maya’s intentions for the future are confident and admirable; under her lead, Dalla Valle looks set to achieve even greater heights.

Dalla Valle: four vintages of the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Maya

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