If you haven’t experienced the refreshing glory of a chilled Spanish red, you’re yet to fully understand some of the country’s most seductive, drinkable and authentic wines – and to fully discover the multifaceted, energetic essence of the country’s wine culture.

Before Spain’s wine industry was taken over by a necessary, but in some cases destructive, professionalisation, many Spanish reds were far removed from the deep, intense, long-lived, single-varietal examples for which the country has become known.

Crisp, juicy field blends – low in alcohol and full of flavour and energy – abounded.

These were true low-intervention wines, produced with little if any machinery, following the rhythm of the days and the whims of wild yeasts.

Most were wines made for own consumption – quenching pours that provided sustenance and a safe source of hydration throughout the working day, helping to soften the edges of a life of hard labour, poor living conditions and little if any pay.

They were often carried in botas (traditional leather wineskins) by field workers and cosecheros (harvesters), and enjoyed alongside a simple lunch of bread, olives and charcuterie.

And small glasses were poured direct from the barrel (properly chilled at cellar temperature) when neighbours stopped by for an evening chat – before heading next door for more wine and more gossip.

Back to the future

Not merely a style, lighter Spanish reds evoke another time, another pace of life, another way of socialising; one that’s more in tune – financial and social hardship notwithstanding – with the rhythms of nature and of oneself.

They also evoke a scenery that isn’t dominated by large swaths of mono-clonal vineyards, instead formed by a patchwork of co-planted indigenous varieties, where red-, white- and pink-skinned grapes coexisted.

Today, there’s renewed interest in these wines, whose levity appeals to those seeking elegance, freshness, immediate appeal and lower alcohol, as well as a more complete, layered understanding of Spanish wine history, where small growers, old vineyards and maverick producers play central roles.

Discovering the crunchier, quenching side of Spanish reds is an opportunity to engage with a palette of grape varieties and winemaking approaches that preceded the modern understanding of Spanish (commercial) winemaking.

They’re important symbols of the movement that, since the turn of the 20th century, has upended simplistic beliefs of what Spanish wine should be, forming the different swells of ‘New Wave Spain’: from the great Garnacha revival to the fascination with the volcanic-spirited wines of the Canary islands, by way of the recovery of quasi-abandoned, gnarly field blends and the renewed enjoyment of so-called cosechero wines – the carbonic maceration reds that nurtured harvesters and fuelled harvest fests.

What was old is new

More than catering to a different, predominantly younger demographic, these wines also offer clues to the future of Spanish wine from a technical standpoint.

With climate change looming large, the grapes that were once difficult to ripen are now the key for lower-abv, fresher wines; the ancient, low-yielding vines – once neglected in favour of newly planted, mechanised vineyards – are now important assets that offer lessons on drought and virus resistance.

But beyond any historical or scientific arguments, these wines deserve attention (and fridge space) first and foremost because they’re delicious, alluring and extremely versatile.

By playing with serving temperature you’ll get different textures and dominant aromas, with different presentation of tannins suggesting alternative food pairings.

Chillable Spanish reds

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The charming semi-sparkling wine of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco is considered the ideal wine to pair with local Emilia cuisine, from cured meats like Salame and Prosciutto di Parma to pastas like tortellini and local cheeses.

Often frizzante, or lightly sparkling, classic Lambrusco wines are dry or slightly off-dry with floral aromas, bright red fruit characters and refreshing acidity. The wines are light in tannins and have moderate alcohol.

Typically produced using the Charmat (tank) method, a small proportion is also made by the Traditional or Ancestrale methods. The best examples reflect the different varieties and distinct characteristics of the three main Lambrusco grapes including Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco Grasparossa.

Scroll down to discover six Lambrusco wines to try from DWWA 2026

A local favourite, the classic Lambrusco wine style, bottled with mushroom corks as opposed to the sweet, mass-produced Lambrusco wines bottled with screw-cap, is deservedly finding its way into international markets.

And catching the attention of the expert judges at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), six Lambrusco wines received Silver and Bronze medals (from 89 to 95 points), worth trying.

A region and wine style well worth exploring, below discover Emilia-Romagna’s top-scoring Lambrusco wines from the 2026 competition to celebrate World Lambrusco Day.

Search all award-winning wines from Emilia-Romagna at awards.decanter.com

World Lambrusco Day: Six award-winning styles to try

Ceci, Otello Ceci 1813 Nero di Lambrusco, Lambrusco dell'Emilia NV

Gold, 95 points
Bustling with strawberry, brambly fruit and leafy florals that infiltrate the elegant mousse and luscious texture. A fine line of orange zest of acidity cuts through. Alcohol 11%

Le Origini, S. Onofrio Brut, Lambrusco di Sorbara 2025

Silver, 93 points
Pretty aromatics of candied redcurrant and cherry; raspberry, orange, wild blackberry and a bright acidity on the palate. Alc 11%

Gualtieri, Il Ligabue, Lambrusco Reggiano NV

Silver, 92 points
Candied cherry, strawberry jam, cranberry sauce and orange zest nose; palate of sour cherry and bright raspberry. Alc 11%

Ceci, Terre Verdiane 1813 Amabile, Lambrusco dell'Emilia NV

Silver, 90 points
Sour cherry and candied redcurrant nose; palate of dark cherry, subtle herb, sweet red fruit and a tangy acidity. Alc 8.5%

Cantina Puianello, Contrada Borgoleto Semisecco, Lambrusco Reggiano 2025

Silver, 90 points
Inviting and aromatic with dark berry fruit and lifted floral notes leading to a palate of juicy bramble and blueberry preserve. Alc 9.5%

Ventiventi, Rouge De Noirs Brut, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce 2021

Bronze, 89 points
Tart red fruit and lifted floral notes on the nose; canned cherry, red berry fruit and crisp acidity on the palate. Alc 12%

See all DWWA 2026 results

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An opaque, intriguing history

America’s oldest vineyards are a sight to behold.

Marked by gnarled old vines planted in the 1880s, often by Italian immigrants, they provide a palpable sense of history in this so-called New World.

Many of them are field blends, the common practice at the time – a melange that may include Alicante Bouschet, Palomino, Carignan, Mataro, Syrah or Petite Sirah.

The Old Patch at Ridge’s Lytton Springs estate, first planted in 1882, includes 24 different grape varieties. The foundation, though, of these old sites is almost always Zinfandel.

‘The Dickerson vineyard in Napa was planted in the 1920s, and it’s 100% Zinfandel,’ Joel Peterson, ‘the Godfather of Zin’, tells me, while we’re standing in his old-vine Sonoma site, Bedrock vineyard.

‘The very old vineyards, like this one or Old Hill, are a mix of more than 20 varieties.

They were some of the first vineyards planted after phylloxera (both during the 1880s), so they really leaned on an old way of doing things.’

Once thought to be native to the US, Zinfandel’s origins have long been muddied.

For many years, it was believed to be closely related to the Italian variety Primitivo, maybe hailing from Puglia.

However, DNA testing at the University of California, Davis, chased its origins across the Adriatic to the coast of Croatia.

It turns out that not only are California’s long-standing signature variety and Primitivo genetically identical, but both of those grapes are also genetically identical to Dalmatia’s Crljenak Kaštelanski (also known as Tribidrag).

Peaks and valleys

The notion of quality in Zinfandel has also had a tumultuous history, particularly recently. It was the original American fine wine.

Early California bottlings of Zinfandel were sold from trains on the east coast and they made waves at the Paris Exposition of 1889.

Over time, though, its reputation has waned, owing in many ways to the great commercial success of White Zinfandel (the inexpensive, typically not dry ‘blush’-style rosés) and a lingering reputation and perhaps unfair stereotyping as a one-dimensional wine of bombast, high alcohol and little else.

‘Somewhere in the 14%-15% range is where the variety hits its stride,’ Peterson instructs. ‘There it has acid, edge and spice without the unfortunate gloopy, overripe character.’

Through all of that, it remains California’s third most planted variety, behind Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Joel’s son Morgan Twain-Peterson MW is at the forefront in efforts to preserve many of northern California’s old-vine sites.

His commitment to forward-thinking viticulture, regenerative and organic practices, and a fresh take on the wine his father made famous, are evident in the brilliance and site clarity of his Bedrock wines.

Thanks to folks such as Twain-Peterson, Tegan Passalacqua at Turley and the team at ArnotRoberts, old-vine Zinfandel is resurgent.

While America’s fine wine regions are often left referencing their Old World counterparts, Zinfandel offers something uniquely, historically American, in spite of its Adriatic origins.

Pursehouse's pick of America's most enticing Zinfandel

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The Wine Society's buyer for Italy, Sarah Knowles MW, clearly went on a bit of a spending spree in order to bring in some top names and bargain buys for its members.

From the own-label ‘Exhibition’ series to stunners from the superb – and now deliciously maturing – 2016 vintage, it's hard not to dream of stocking up the wine fridge.

And I'm heartened that such an established company is placing a focus not only on the key, traditional areas of interest – Piedmont and Tuscany – but also on the hot producers and little-known wine areas, which bring both value and a sense of adventure.

With wines from the likes of Ar Pe Pe, Benanti, Conti Costanti, Foradori, GD Vajra, Pietradolce and Pieropan, there's plenty for label snobs, but I've picked out six wines that are perfect for delicious summer drinking.

You can also find more recommendations from The Wine Society's range linked at the bottom of this article.

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For many, ‘light South American reds’ will sound like an oxymoron. The continent is mostly associated with – and celebrated for – assertive reds with muscular tannins, plush fruit and considerable ageing potential.

And yet, the evolution and diversity of wines produced from red-skinned grapes across South America makes the case for looking beyond the lauded expressions of Malbec, Carmenère, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon.

While these have consolidated South America as a source of some of the world’s most exciting wines, the real excitement is perhaps elsewhere, in the rediscovery of grapes and terroirs that produce lighter shades of red.

Spoiled for choice

Tasting wines for this piece was an embarrassment of riches. We could easily have featured twice as many examples of equal quality and character.

To frame this selection I first had to answer the question my friend Nacho Campos (former sommelier extraordinaire now working for UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene) asked when I told him I was writing this piece: ‘But how light is a light red?’

The pursuit of levity, detail, purity and elegance – at the service of varietal and terroir expression – is now a major preoccupation among South American winemakers, reflected across their ranges, not least the Malbecs, Tannats and Cabernet Sauvignons.

But that would be another (interesting!) feature entirely.

Here we focus on truly light-bodied reds, not just a technical premise but also as an opportunity to emphasise the changing landscape (pun intended) of South American red wine production and its wider palette of red varieties.

Producers are rediscovering old vineyards and exploring their vines, engaging with the complex yet fascinating history of their countries and decolonising wine discourse – rightfully placing the local farming traditions of yore alongside the European-informed canon.

Refreshing complexity

Engaging with history in all its beautiful if troubled complexity has expanded South American producers’ wine lexicon and geographical reach – often to surprising extremes.

Featured here are wines from regions that range from the Atacama desert, in northern Chile, to the southern extremes of Patagonia by way of secluded corners of Mendoza (Lalande), San Juan (Calingasta) and the oceankissed Atlántida (Canelones, Uruguay).

Some of these wines do indeed have an aura of mysticism to them – evocative of a time lost and unburied.

This exploration of secluded terroirs goes hand in hand with the ongoing reappreciation of Criolla varieties (on whose revival Amanda Barnes MW reported for our September 2025 issue) and old vineyards bearing early plantings of European grapes that have since fallen into disfavour.

Did you know that there are centenary Cinsault vineyards growing on granite in Itata Valley?

Or that Garnacha can produce ethereal iterations of Mendoza?

That a spontaneous crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Listán Prieto resulted in a variety called Moscatel Tinto?

Or that Bastardo/Trousseau has a long history in Argentine Patagonia? Now you do.

Fridge door-ready

How does this all translate into drinking pleasure? Very well indeed.

History and technicalities notwithstanding, the lighter reds of South America are straightforwardly fun and interesting – a perfect reflection of the winemaking community and ebullient wine scene of which they’re a product.

If you want proof of the continent’s technical evolution, spectacular creativity, inspiring confidence – and historical reckoning – look no further, one refreshing sip at a time.

Make space in the fridge!

18 judiciously crafted South American reds:

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Jason Millar, Roger Jones and Victoria Mason MW tasted 90 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 45 Highly recommended

South African red blends: Panel tasting scores

90 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 45

Recommended 32

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red blended wines involving any grape varieties, excluding Pinotage, sourced from any region in South Africa

'Consistently high quality'

As exciting and dynamic as South Africa’s new-wave wines can be, this tasting showed that there’s still a huge amount of character, quality and value to be found in the Cape’s more traditional grape varieties.

Stellenbosch blends based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc formed the majority of the wines submitted and were by far the dominant category when it came to the top scores.

The best of these were concentrated, fresh, balanced and structured, exhibiting the steadily increasing quality and confidence of Cape winemaking.

Stylistically, many of these wines were closest to cru classé Bordeaux in sensibility, with some erring towards Napa in their luxuriousness.

Yet most were a fraction of the price of either.

As Roger Jones remarked: ‘Overall, the entries were of a great standard, but what was especially impressive was the price range of the topscoring wines.’

Victoria Mason MW highlighted ‘the consistently high quality across a multitude of vintages with very different characteristics’.

With our nine Outstanding wines (95-96 points) spanning 2020-2023, she noted that many of the best wines possessed ‘inherent energy and brilliant freshness to temper their ripe fruit and natural power’.

Rhône-inspired beauties

Rhône-variety blends also performed well, although in South Africa, the finest fruit from these vineyards tends to go into varietal wines rather than blends.

Even so, Mullineux’s Kloof Street Red, Swerwer’s Swartland Red Blend, Beaumont’s Raoul’s Red Blend and Brookdale’s Mason Road (see recommendations) are high-scoring (93-94pts) and keenly priced arguments for not overlooking

Cape blends based on varieties such as Grenache Noir. South Africa may be the fashionable place to seek out top-notch Syrah, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it’s also firing on all cylinders when it comes to more classic red blends.

In fact, they’ve never been better. If you’ve been snoozing on South African wine, it’s time to wake up and grab your corkscrew.

What to eat with South African red blends, by Fiona Beckett

Given the stellar showing of the classic South African Bordeaux blends, there’s a strong argument for drinking them with meals with which you would be inclined to reach for a claret, or even a Napa Cabernet, with which lead judge Jason Millar makes a favourable comparison.

That’s to say classic roasts of beef and lamb, steak or, for vegetarians, grilled Portobello mushrooms, a pairing I picked up from former sommelier, now winery owner Larry Stone.

Given the price point, they would also be a good companion for a gourmet burger, particularly a cheeseburger, and with the richness and ripeness of the fruit, they could handle a bit of spice, too.

You could think of drinking them with dishes such as the stir-fried chilli ribeye beef I had with a full-bodied Cabernet at Hunan in London’s Pimlico recently.

As far as the Rhône-style blends are concerned, think more in terms of the last slow-cooked braises and stews of the winter, transitioning to early and high summer barbecues – or braais, of course. What better match for a Saffer?

See all notes and scores from the South African red blands tasting

The judges

South African red blends panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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The 1989 vintage marked a transition in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a faultline between tradition and modernity. It witnessed the birth of the Cuvée Spéciale – elevated bottlings whose purpose was (and still is) to capture the very best of this extraordinary terroir.

Previously, the tradition in Châteauneuf was for an estate to produce a single red wine, and perhaps a single white, made by blending together all their various parcels.

But in 1989, a number of estates, such as Château de Beaucastel’s Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Domaine les Cailloux’s Cuvée Centenaire, Domaine de Marcoux’s Vieilles Vignes… and Clos du Mont-Olivet’s Cuvée du Papet, all started to create an additional premium bottling

They weren’t the first estates to do this. A handful of Cuvées Spéciales were made years before by estates such as Domaine Roger Sabon and Château la Nerthe.

But this collective new wave of 1989s rapidly moved the Cuvée Spéciale from the exception to the rule.

When I tasted the 1989 Cuvée du Papet in 2019, I was so impressed that it made one of my wines of the year .

Since then, I’ve been keen to get to know this cuvée better, and in January I was invited to a vertical tasting at the domaine.

The clos without a clos

In what can be an appellation of big personalities, Thierry Sabon is relatively self-effacing despite his winemaking talents.

He co-owns the Clos du Mont-Olivet estate with his cousins Céline and David. They represent the fourth generation; the estate was created in 1932 by their great-grandfather Séraphin Sabon.

The name Clos du Mont-Olivet is something of a misnomer – there is no actual clos (walled vineyard), but the estate was granted use of the term as it has been part of its name for so long.

Mont-Olivet refers to the lieu-dit Montalivet, which is home to their main parcel of vines. They have parcels in 15 different lieux-dits, making up 21ha in Châteauneuf, and soils are mostly sandy clay.

‘It’s good for making wines with finesse,’ says Thierry. ‘Sand is more and more sought after.’

Varieties are planted to match each individual vineyard, but Grenache dominates, followed by Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

They also grow some Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Piquepoul Noir and Terret Noir.

They even have a small plantation just outside the appellation where they cultivate old varieties that were once grown in the appellation but are no longer permitted, such as Grand Noir and old Corsican grapes.

With climate change shaking things up, perhaps we’ll see a comeback.

What’s in a name

English speakers might assume the word Papet is somehow connected with the pope (le pape), but the name has a different origin. In the local Provençal dialect, papet means grandfather.

‘The name Papet emerged through a family consensus,’ says Céline, ‘a simple and heartfelt way to pay tribute to the courageous work of their grandfather Séraphin, whom everyone deeply admired.’

It was also chosen in reference to the character with the same name in the films Jean de Florette and Manon des Sources because, ‘they captured with great accuracy the rural world and the deep-rooted values of peasant life at that time,' she says.

It’s a reminder that La Cuvée du Papet was created in a different era, before Châteauneuf-du-Pape had enjoyed its modern renaissance. The appellation’s resurgence in the 1990s was partly thanks to these new bottlings and the attention they attracted.

What’s in the bottle

The original idea for La Cuvée du Papet came from Pierre Sabon, Céline’s father. Rather than a specific plot, a selection of the most promising fruit is made each year in their vineyards, with the lieux-dits Montalivet, Bois Dauphin and La Crau typically making ‘the backbone of the cuvée,’ according to Thierry.

The parcels and varieties, usually around 80% Grenache topped up with Syrah and Mourvèdre, are cofermented.

Thierry includes around 50% whole bunch, which ‘brings these particular aromas, little delicate fruits,’ from the intracellular fermentation, and ‘the stems bring a tannic side and a menthol element, freshness on the palate and length,’ he says.

Working with stems can be a double-edged sword. Pick too early, and wines can suffer from harsh, drying tannins.

But wait for well-ripened stems and the alcohol can become unbalanced and the fruit can taste jammy.

Overall, working with whole bunch here is a worthwhile choice. This wine has always been a potent style, displaying warming alcohol in more recent years.

But that’s the payoff for the tannic finesse and mentholated complexity that this cuvée develops with time in bottle – and the fruit is never jammy. Sometimes you have to take the warm with the smooth.

Not everybody agrees that the Cuvée Speciale has been a positive development in the evolution of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Many estates jumped on the bandwagon in the 1990s, producing overblown, heavy or oaky wines that didn’t stand the test of time.

But the first few vintages of La Cuvée du Papet are undeniably brilliant wines, that still reverberate today with the greatness of this terroir.

They vindicate Pierre Sabon, and the revolutionary class of ‘89.

13 wines back to 1989

Wines are listed youngest to oldest

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Caroline Gilby MW, Ana Jackson MW and Igor Luković tasted 128 wines, with 12 Outstanding and 30 Highly recommended

Southeastern European reds: Panel tasting scores

128 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 12

Highly recommended 30

Recommended 63

Commended 23

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still, dry red wines made from 100% indigenous grapes and/or traditional regional grapes, including blends, from specified countries in the southeast of Europe

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southeastern European reds panel tasting

A sea change in style

With 12 Outstanding wines across five countries, involving seven local grapes, this was a fascinating, diverse and high-scoring tasting.

It also provided a strong signal that the whole region of 10 nations – under the broad umbrella of ‘southeastern Europe’ – is coming of age and offers lots of exciting options for adventurous wine drinkers.

The results gave a clear message that indigenous varieties, once written off as plodding workhorses, can deliver both global quality and wines with real personality and distinct differences that reflect each country.

It should give producers a boost, showing they can have real confidence in native varieties and don’t have to rely on adding Merlot or Cabernet.

Ana Jackson MW was impressed by the high quality across the board.

‘It was great to see the versatility of grapes and to see real freshness in some of the Outstanding wines. And where there is oak, it’s good oak, unlike a few years ago,’ she said.

‘Teran was a highlight among the top-scoring wines, and the Kabola amphora wine (see recommendations) deserves a special mention. The Probus grape was a real discovery, too.’

Igor Luković agreed. ‘I was impressed with the consistency of the wines – fewer mistakes and the traditional, rustic, over-oaked styles are disappearing in favour of far more modern and precise winemaking,’ he said.

‘I expected Teran to shine, and it delivered. But I also admired Prokupac, and I think that Frankovka (or Blaufränkisch) has a great future in southeastern Europe and should be planted more widely.’

The judges agreed that the next challenge is how to promote these unfamiliar wines, though the results showed that this region is a treasure trove of exciting and delicious discoveries.

What to eat with southeastern European reds, by Fiona Beckett

The combination of what are likely be unfamiliar grape varieties with the unfamiliar cuisines of their home countries might sound daunting but could prompt some exciting experiments.

Certainly there’s no lack of quality among these wines, particularly Croatia’s Teran, which is traditionally paired with wild boar, venison and other game, rich fatty meats and Paški sir, a salty sheep’s cheese from the island of Pag.

So it should equally work with more familiar, slow-cooked Greek, Turkish and Lebanese meat dishes and salty Greek cheeses such as feta.

Vranac should work with similar dishes, especially braises and stews, while Prokupac lends itself to roasts and grills, being a particularly good pairing, according to Serbian sommelier Vuk Vuletić, for the local ćevapi (skinless minced-meat sausages), served with an ajvar (red pepper) sauce.

Emboldened by that touch of spice, I would be inclined to try Georgian and other Central Asian dishes, and even Indian roasted or grilled meats. These robust reds would pair well with foods cooked over coals.

See all notes and scores from the southeastern European reds tasting

The judges

Caroline Gilby MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is DWWA joint Regional Chair across several categories

Ana Jackson MW is head of wine business development for Amathus Drinks and was formerly head buyer at Oddbins for more than 12 years. She is keen to promote less-familiar wine categories and is a DWWA judge for the Southern & Eastern Mediterranean category

Igor Luković is editor in chief at Vino & Fino magazine in Serbia. A wine writer, consultant, judge and events manager, he is a DWWA judge and president of The Balkans International Wine Competition jury

Southeastern European reds panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Umbria is the perfect winter escape: the only landlocked region in Central Italy, its quaint medieval villages acquire an enchanting aura when the air gets crisp while the sun keeps shining. A warming aroma of wood-fired delicacies often drifts through narrow alleys, preluding the cozy embrace of local trattorias and country houses.

While in the past this region was best-known for its whites, especially Orvieto, a bold red for chilly days has taken centre stage over the last two decades: Montefalco Sagrantino.

The red Sagrantino grape is almost exclusively grown within a five-township area centred on the picturesque town of Montefalco, in the heart of the region. Montefalco’s tidy, verdant hills mirror the backdrops of 15th century artworks by masters such as Benozzo Gozzoli and Perugino, still visible in the village church of San Francesco.

Yet Montefalco Sagrantino wines showcase intensity and heft rather than Renaissance-style serenity and poise. Almost extinct in the 1970s due to its hard-to-tame nature, the variety was rescued by the Caprai family of the namesake winery, who discovered that Sagrantino contains some of the highest levels of tannins and polyphenols of any grape anywhere in the world.

A rapid rise

Marco Caprai began conducting clonal selection, improved canopy management, and introduced ageing in small oak barrels, paving the way for the achievement of DOCG status for Sagrantino di Montefalco in 1992 (the name changed to Montefalco Sagrantino in 2009) – and its subsequent revival.

As the demand for brooding, powerful reds boomed from the late 1990s onwards, total plantings soared from only 66 hectares at the moment of the DOCG’s birth to over 380 in 2022 [according to Consorzio vini Montefalco], currently scattered among 65 small- to medium-size producers.

Innovative approaches

Most Sagrantino di Montefalco are deep-coloured, brimming with sweet red and black fruits, spice, chocolate, and distinctive balsamic or botanical touches.

With their high alcohol, noteworthy mid-palate concentration and dusty tannins requiring several years to soften, they convey a sense of warmth and exuberance – sometimes at the expense of finesse and detail.

Yet several producers are striving to achieve greater balance and finesse, often by adopting innovative approaches.

‘Sagrantino can be a beauty and a beast at once’, says Giampaolo Tabarrini, a cult vintner who crafts classically concentrated yet weightless expressions. Tabarrini believes high alcohol from late harvesting is unavoidable in order to obtain full tannic maturity.

Nonetheless, he collaborated with the oenology university of Perugia to create a custom fermentation tank that allows for extremely long and gentle macerations, contributing to an uncanny sense of elegance.

Marco Caprai, meanwhile, has worked together with globetrotting winemaking superstar Michel Rolland to conceive the methode integrale, consisting of a whole-berry fermentation in French oak barrels, also aimed at obtaining a softer texture.

Other producers rely on more conventional winemaking to emphasise the grape’s transparency of terroir. Filippo Antonelli, produces two single-vineyard Sagrantino with very distinct personalities; Chiusa di Pannone and Molino dell’Attone.

The latter represents an especially contemporary take: the schistous, east-oriented parcel shapes a wine that showcases noteworthy refinement and approachability without giving up on Sagrantino’s signature power.

Antonelli says: ‘In Montefalco, there has long been a tendency to make a single super-selection of Sagrantino. Instead, we should focus more on single-vineyard expressions, as different soils and expositions result in diverging profiles.’

A must-have in any serious cellar

Despite remarkable efforts to offer earlier-drinking styles, Sagrantino di Montefalco remains one of Italy’s most cellar-worthy reds.

Between eight and 15 years from its release is enough time for the tannins to soften without totally losing their enticing gripping effect. At this stage, a mix of earthy flavours and rich fruit makes it a perfect match for ground game or red meats seasoned with mushrooms or truffles in a typically Umbrian fashion.

Yet the best Sagrantino di Montefalco can hold up for even longer, entering the vini da meditazione category along with the likes of Amarone, as the high polyphenol content keeps the structure intact while the edges become rounder.

Although finding older vintages outside of cellar shops and a few top-tier restaurants in Italy can be challenging, late-release versions are increasingly widespread. Almost all producers wait longer than the 33 months mandated by the appellation’s regulations, with most examples currently on the market belonging to the 2019 and 2020 vintages.

A few wineries go even further: the 2018 Carapace Lunga Attesa by Tenute Lunelli – a Montefalco estate run by the namesake family of Ferrari Trento fame – is a prime example of ready-to-drink, fireside Sagrantino with a lovely balance between brightness and slowly rising tertiary complexity.

Beyond Sagrantino

Sagrantino isn’t the only key player in Montefalco: roughly two thirds of the appellation’s total production (roughly 35% of Umbria’s total output) are still represented by Montefalco Rosso, the area’s historical Sangiovese-based red with dollops of Sagrantino and other varieties.

While most Montefalco Rosso are simple and meant to offer an affordable alternative to Sagrantino, top-notch renditions like the 2023 Tenute Lunelli Ziggurat and the 2021 Tenuta Bellafonte Maestà Quattro Chiavi Riserva show greater breadth and depth, giving Sangiovese from the coveted Tuscany region a run for their money.

The white Trebbiano Spoletino variety is also on the rise. Tabarrini’s oak-aged 2023 Adarmando and Antonelli’s amphora-aged 2023 Vigna Tonda are just two of several high quality expressions, reflecting the grape’s noteworthy potential, both in terms of complexity and versatility.

As Antonelli says, ‘few areas in Italy excel with both white and reds’ – a testament to Montefalco’s evolving wine landscape.

Cosy up to these six Montefalco Sangrantino:

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Beth Willard, Matthew Forster MW and Andy Howard MW tasted 76 wines, with 25 Highly recommended and 43 Recommended

Red international varieties in Spain: Panel tasting scores

76 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 25

Recommended 43

Commended 8

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit red wines made from a minimum 85% of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot or Pinot Noir (or a combination of these), produced in any geographical denomination in Spain

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our Red international varieties in Spain panel tasting

Square pegs in round holes?

We gathered for this tasting on a Wednesday in late August. The weather couldn’t make up its mind, with heavy downpours followed by periods of bright sunshine. The tasting was equally variable. This tasting had a few highlights but was generally a little disappointing.

However, it should be noted that there are some excellent wines in this broad category that were not submitted: for instance, old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon from Navarra offers impressive ageing potential, and there are wines dotted around the coast which have a truly Mediterranean character.

The problem with many of the wines that we did have in this tasting was twofold: the unsuitability of the varieties to their chosen terroir, and the stylistic choices made by the producers.

In particular, the Pinot Noirs were problematic, failing to achieve balance. Ageing regimes were also an issue. ‘Too many wines were heavy, oaked and high in alcohol. This isn’t what people [now] want to drink,’ Andy Howard MW noted.

Likewise, Matthew Forster MW felt that producers had misjudged the styles. ‘Winemaking seems constrained by the international varieties, with winemakers thinking they need to use oak,’ he explained. ‘There was none of the freshness or purity that you see with Spanish indigenous grapes.’

The better wines were well crafted even if they lacked regional identity. ‘Syrahs were the best of the bunch, with some quite appealing wines, but none struck me as particularly Spanish,’ said Howard. ‘It’s the international character that comes through.’

In the end, we did find some well-made wines scoring 90 points and above, which offered both balance and concentration – worth buying if you are looking for good examples of these varieties.

But, given that Spanish wines today are so thrilling, perhaps our expectations are set much higher. We look forward to tasting more of these wines in the future with a real focus on terroir and a little more Spanish flair.

What to eat with Spanish international reds, by Fiona Beckett

Although the tasting covered several different grape varieties, the overall impression was of relatively high alcohol wines bolstered with a good deal of oak. Fortunately, we can use food to mitigate that, in particular using rare and charred red meat, rich winey stews and ‘meaty’ vegetables such as grilled portobello mushrooms and aubergines to offset the tannins.

If you’ve got the barbecue fired up, they would be the wines to bring out. And although some lacked a specifically Spanish character, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t introduce that with the food.

Fruit-forward wines can handle a bit of spice and there’s plenty of that in Spain’s pimenton-rich food. Think hearty dishes with pork and beans with those Syrahs. A bit of bottle age would also modify and mellow the oak influence, so consider tucking some of these wines away to bring out in a few years’ time with lamb (Spain’s favourite meat) or with game.

A mature vintage of wines such as the Torres, Mas La Plana would be perfect with pot-roast pheasant.

See all notes and scores from the red international varieties in Spain tasting

The judges

Beth Willard is a wine consultant, communicator and judge with a particular passion for the wines of Spain. A member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, she is also one of the five DWWA Co-Chairs

Matthew Forster MW is an independent wine consultant and education specialist, and founder of The Wine Partnership. A former director at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, he has a particular passion for the food and wine cultures of Spain, Portugal and South America

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter Contributing Editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Red international varieties in Spain panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Alcohol duty will rise in-line with inflation in the UK, confirmed the government’s Budget on Wednesday (26 November), despite trade warnings of further price rises and pre-existing cost pressures. 

Miles Beale, chief executive of the Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA), called the latest duty increase short-sighted and said it would ‘only prolong the economy’s doom loop’.

With retail price inflation (RPI) set at 3.66%, an £8.50 bottle of 13.5% abv Merlot wine could rise by 13 pence to £8.63 when the new rates take effect, on 1 February 2026, said WSTA. This assumes the full duty increase is passed on to consumers, with value added tax (VAT) also included.

‘When the duty increases kick in next year, wine and spirit prices will have risen by almost £1-a-bottle in a year, taking into account the ongoing burden of duty rises, the new waste packaging tax and VAT,’ said the WSTA.

Retailer or supplier strategies may vary when it comes to absorbing additional duty, although the news looked set to cement the UK’s reputation as one of the more expensive places to buy wine in Europe. 

Don’t miss these top wines in UK supermarkets: tasted by our expert 

Which European country is most expensive for wine drinkers?

A ranking published last month – prior to the Budget – placed the UK seventh, with an ‘average price for a mid-range bottle of wine’ coming in at £8.

The Pour Index, compiled by travel company Into The Vineyard using figures from online database Numbeo, produced a league table of the most – and least – expensive European countries when it comes to buying wine.

Iceland topped the league with a mid-range bottle price of £18.41, more than double the European average.

Norway came second (£12.70), with Switzerland third (£11.21), Finland fourth (£10.89) and Ireland fifth (£10.46).

Spain and Portugal were among the least expensive places to buy wine using this metric, with mid-prices of £4.36 and £4.35 per bottle respectively, while France was mid-table on £6.10.

All sorts of factors can affect wine prices, of course, from production volumes and costs to availability and winery reputations. Exchange rate swings, tariffs, duty and other levies, like value added tax (VAT), also play a part.

Comparing excise duties on wine in Europe

Excise duty tax on wine varies considerably between countries, as shown by European Commission data.

Major producer nations Spain and Italy have a zero rate on wine, which is the allowed ‘minimum’ in EU rules, and France charges relatively small levies, for example. There are exceptions, and the EU sets a higher baseline rate for ‘intermediate’ products, including some fortified wines.

Recent analysis by the World Health Organisation (WHO), which also encompassed data from non-EU states, found that Turkey, the Nordic countries, Ireland and the UK all had above-average wine duty rates in Europe.

In the UK, a new system based on alcoholic strength was fully implemented for wine in February 2025. This means an 11% abv wine has a lower duty rate than a 14% wine, for instance.

Wine prices rising in Europe?

Wine is the cheapest alcoholic drink in Europe, on average, according to the WHO, although it saw no cause for celebration. The group has called for tax rises on all drinks to help reduce alcohol-related diseases.

Wine prices have risen in most European countries over the past decade, according to recent analysis from the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE).

Turkey’s consumer wine prices surged by more than 1,500% in 10 years to September 2025, showed an AAWE chart published on LinkedIn last month.

Croatia has seen prices jump by almost 92%, while Spain registered a 27.4% increase, said AAWE’s chart of harmonised consumer wine price indices sourced from Federal Reserve Economic Data (FRED). Meanwhile, wine prices in Italy rose by just 7.4%, and in Ireland they fell – by 11%.

The UK wasn’t included on the list, although RPI data from the Office of National Statistics showed a 175ml glass of wine has cost £5.17 on average in January 2025. That compared to £3.44 10 years earlier.

Dining out with fine wine: London vs Paris

If you want to drink the world’s best and have the cash then global consultancy group Knight Frank recently ranked major cities for their fine wine restaurant scene.

Both London and Paris featured in the top five, but average prices were higher in the UK capital, found data analytics firm Wine Services for Knight Frank’s 2025 wealth report.

‘If you want to indulge in the most expensive wines, New York, London and Dubai are your best bets, with the median price per bottle at the top 20 restaurants in each city coming in above US$740,’ said Knight Frank’s report. In Paris, the equivalent price was $551.

Decanter’s Rupert Millar recently compared the wine scenes of both cities, having moved to the French capital from London.

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Early years at Château des Tours

Emmanuel spent his early winemaking career in Sarrians at the family’s Vacqueyras estate, Château des Tours.

This property was obtained by Emmanuel’s grandfather Louis Reynaud in the 1930s, who had entrusted it to Emmanuel’s father, Bertrand Reynaud, who in turn handed it to Emmanuel.

Emmanuel helped build the winery at Château des Tours in 1989; until then, the fruit was delivered to a local co-operative.

It was at Château des Tours that he made his first wines and honed his style.

Taking on Rayas and Fonsalette

During this time, the family’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate, Château Rayas, was managed by Emmanuel’s uncle, Jacques Reynaud.

Following Jacques’ sudden death in 1997, Château Rayas, and the family’s other property, Château de Fonsalette (located further north in the village of Lagarde-Paréol), were passed down to Emmanuel. He continued to manage Château des Tours alongside them.

Emmanuel was a discreet man who prioritised the close management of his three estates over travelling the world to promote his wines. He didn’t have to: the world came to him. Or at least it tried to; securing a visit at Château Rayas has always been notoriously difficult.

Emmanuel didn’t tolerate lateness and he didn’t suffer fools gladly. But he could be welcoming to those learning the profession.

I remember the first time I visited Emmanuel at Rayas. During the first half of the visit he was combative, asking pointed questions about my motivation for visiting and my understanding of the Rhône. Once I had passed the test – and it did feel like a test – he was cheerful and friendly. From that point on he was always welcoming.

An inimitable style

Emmanuel stamped his unmistakable winemaking signature across all of his wines, and winemakers around the world have cited him as an inspiration. Especially those working with Grenache, the most important grape variety in all of his three estates.

Although much imitated, Emmanuel’s style has never been truly mastered by anyone else; it remains unique in the world of wine. So much so, his wines can often be identified by their aroma alone – an ineffable perfume combining strawberries, honey, rose petals, mint and dried herbs.

No wonder they became so keenly sought after, fetching some of the highest prices for Rhône wines at auction.

They might be easy to identify, but quite how he achieved such heights is less clear. He was always the last to pick in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, favouring very ripe grapes, and liked to wait until after the rain before harvesting. He extracted very lightly and never used new oak. But he wisely kept his biggest secrets to himself.

Rayas has always been a mysterious estate. Emmanuel helped to perpetuate the legend – and the quality.

The Decanter team sends its condolences to his wife and children.

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‘The world of wine is in crisis because of a lack of pleasure,’ says Fabien Duperray of Domaine Jules Desjourneys. This is hardly a problem for drinkers of the Beaujolais 2023 vintage, however.

The year has produced wines of rare balance and elegance. It is a vintage to buy both for current drinking and to lay down for the future. The top wines from 2023 will stand the test of time, but there is also enough hedonistic fruit to ensure immediate pleasure.

Beaujolais’ top producers are today turning out ageworthy gems that are well worth discovering at prices that make even the top wines an affordable splurge.

Our expert’s picks of 2023 Beaujolais listed below

So why 2023?

Compared with the preceding year, 2023 was a cooler vintage and the grapes kept a bit more acidity.

Picking in 2023 began in the last week of August (as it did in 2022), but there was plenty of rain during the season so the wines have more freshness, even though both harvests were picked at a moderate 13.5% alcohol.

Despite tremendous heat during harvest in 2023, the phenolic maturity was not as great, and winemakers tended to use a slightly shorter time in tank.

‘One could make great wine in 2023 if the yields didn’t get ahead of you,’ says Philippe Pascal of Domaine Mont Bessay in Juliénas.

Frédéric Jametton, the partner of Côte de Nuits superstar Guillaume Rouget at the Domaine de Vernus in Régnié, says: ‘I’d drink the 2023s before the 2022s, but it will be a great vintage’.

Maxime-Henri Lafarge, Michel Lafarge’s grandson, splits his time between Volnay and the family estate in Fleurie.

‘You can enjoy these wines now, or lay them down for the future,’ he says, ‘it’s always a good moment to open them, since they do not seem to be shutting down as some hotter vintages will do.’

The 2023 growing season

A warm winter in 2023 was followed by cooler, rainy weather, but flowering took place under ideal conditions, guaranteeing a generous yield.

July and August saw alternating periods of hot and dry balanced by cool and wet. This contrasted sharply with 2022 and other ‘global warming’ vintages that had more heat spikes and less water, ensuring moderate accumulation of sugar.

The first two weeks of August were rainy, with hail on 13 August, but the sun came out to finish ripening the grapes.

The making of a classic Beaujolais

In addition to Morgon, Fleurie and Juliénas, the most successful Beaujolais crus in 2023 include Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, St-Amour and Moulin-à-Vent, all of which produced wines that we can enjoy today and for years to come.

Many of the most complex and compelling wines come from the single-village Beaujolais crus in the northern part of Beaujolais, near the border with the southern reaches of Burgundy.

Wines here are made principally with two techniques, either semi-carbonic maceration or destemming.

In semi-carbonic maceration, winemakers who use a short maceration are looking for a fruity, forward style for easy drinking, but prolonging the maceration can deliver wines worthy of ageing in bottle.

Domaine Marcel Lapierre, for example, has macerations that last anywhere from nine to 35 days according to the desired style.

Jean-Marc Burgaud, macerates his grapes for about two weeks – depending on the vintage – before finishing the fermentation and ageing in tank to preserve a bit of reduction.

Burgaud is a great believer in the capacity of his wines to age, and believes that reduction lets them open slowly in bottle.

Burgundian influence

A very different style of wine is made by destemming some or all of the grapes prior to fermentation.

Destemming commonly gives wines that are more deeply coloured, with more prominent tannins and notable purity of fruit. This technique is often used by winemakers from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, where the practice is common.

This is the case at Domaine Lafarge-Vial in Fleurie, founded by Frédéric Lafarge and his wife Chantal (née Vial) of Volnay. The grapes here are completely destemmed, either by hand or machine.

The fruit is given a maceration of two weeks before pressing in a vertical press and ageing in large oak uprights and used barrels of 228L and 350L for 14 months before bottling.

A hybrid technique is used by Guillaume Marko, technical director of Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry and partner (with Philippe Pascal) in Domaine Mont Bessay in Juliénas.

At Domaine Mont Bessay the grapes from old vines are fermented largely as whole bunches and those from the younger vines are partially destemmed.

Pascal also believes in the ageability of Beaujolais: ‘Great Gamay needs long ageing, just like great Burgundy’.

Savvy wine lovers should without doubt snap up some of the top Beaujolais from 2023. The wines are delicious now and will hold for the future, too.

What’s more, much less wine was produced in 2024, so now’s your chance to stock up while the 2023s are still on the market.

Three Beaujolais 2023 drinking well now

Domaine des Pierres Roses, Vieilles Vignes, Moulin à Vent 2023 – 92 points

Pierre Roses is the Beaujolais project of Nuits-St-Georges superstar Thibault Liger-Belair. His ‘entry-level’ bottling is truly superb, boasting ripe, fleshy black plum and fig fruit enlivened by hints of earth and a salty minerality. The texture is dense but approachable. The wine is produced from old vines from the north-facing slopes, giving a wine with structure and freshness, with enough bright fruit to reward immediate drinking.

Domaine Laurent Gauthier, Beaujolais Villages 2023 – 91 points

Morgon-based Laurent Gauthier produces a beguiling Beaujolais Villages by blending fruit from two Beaujolais crus: 80% Morgon and 20% Chiroubles. The result has a lovely, lilting raspberry fruit aroma with a floral edge and a hint of spice. The texture is approachable and fresh but not overly fruity. This is a perfect wine to pair with traditional French bistrot classics, any night of the week.

Bret Brothers, Poncié, Fleurie 2023 – 92 points

The approachable, plummy fruit aromas of this single-vineyard Fleurie are accented with notes of fresh flowers and liquorice. The texture has a plump density but there is enough finesse to give this a moreish balance that calls for a second glass. The grapes are from the steep, southwest-facing slopes and pink granite soils of Poncié; they are fermented as whole bunches and given a fairly short maceration before ageing in used barrels.

Top picks from Beaujolais 2023:

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If you ask people to name a powerful, potent and concentrated wine, you can bet that Châteauneuf-du-Pape would be a common call. There’s no doubt that it can be an extreme style, and that’s one reason it has so many admirers.

But playing at the outer reaches of style can be treacherous. Balance and drinkability can be easily lost.

Scroll down for notes and scores for eight vintages of Vieille Julienne’s Réservé

My personal taste has always veered towards more elegant interpretations of Châteauneuf. I was never a fan of the pumped-up, overripe examples from the 1990s.

But there is one bottling that strides beyond the limits of most Grenache-based wines, and does so magnificently: Domaine de la Vieille Julienne’s cuvée Réservé.

Early attempts

I visit the domaine’s owner and winemaker Jean-Paul Daumen in October every year to get his take on the new vintage. I can always rely on him for an intelligent and eloquent read of the season in question.

This year we also tasted through eight vintages of Réservé made between 2012 and 2024.

Daumen joined his father at the family estate in 1992. He soon noticed that some of their oldest Grenache vines within a parcel of their Trois Sources vineyard appeared different – very small, loose bunches and fewer leaves. In 1994, he decided to vinify them separately. Encouraged by the results, he did so again in 1995.

He waited until the renowned 1998 vintage to repeat the experiment a third time. Despite a glorious growing season, it was less successful.

‘In the 1990s, for many producers the goal was to get very overripe grapes,’ he says. By following the same trend, he ended up with a wine that fell out of balance and into excess.

‘The ‘90s was a time for me to learn,’ he says. ‘Sometimes to find the limit, you have to go past it.’

His 1999, picked earlier, was much better. By 2001, he finally felt satisfied with his creation.

Vintages of Réservé produced:

1994, 1995, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2009, 2010, 2012, and every vintage between 2015-2025.

Coloured ribbon

To begin with, Daumen only made this cuvée in the best vintages, but due to global warming he has been able to produce it every year since 2015.

Before, it was a case of not wanting to ‘amputate’ anything from his other Châteauneuf cuvées by making Réservé.

Today, the fruit ‘must be removed from Trois Sources,’ he says, ‘as it wouldn’t be right for it.’

The selection is made at harvest by tasting the berries, and a ribbon is attached to the vines so the picking team knows which ones to select.

The blend is typically 90%-95% Grenache, the rest mostly Syrah, with a little Cinsault and Counoise.

The Grenache has historically all been destemmed, but this is beginning to change, as Daumen likes the complexity that a little whole bunch can bring. He matures it in old foudres, as he’s never liked new oak.

The style

Some Châteauneufs, such as Clos des Papes, focus on finesse. Others, like Château de Beaucastel, are more about structure and balance. Vieille Julienne Réservé is Grenache in excelsis.

It’s a wine of phenomenal concentration, intensity and thrust – it’s so loud and so immense that it dominates your attention. Yet in good vintages it retains enough acidity, freshness and salinity for a sense of elegance and drinkability. It’s a wine of such staggering proportions, such depth and length, that it leaves you awestruck.

That said, I don’t expect everyone to enjoy it. Some will find it too powerful, too intense, simply too much.

Since converting to biodynamic viticulture in 2001, Daumen has seen alcohol levels rise slightly in his wines; but conversely ‘you don’t feel it as much’. He admits it’s hard to explain, but he believes it’s to do with the quality of the alcohol, rather than the quantity.

There’s no escaping that this is a potent wine; it typically reaches 15.5%-16% alcohol. Would it be better with less alcohol? No; as it is a cornerstone of the wine. ‘Alcohol brings this round side, this sucrosité,’ he says.

50 years and counting

Because of its outsize proportions, when tasting from barrel I’ve had niggling doubts in the past about how this cuvée will perform over time. After all, some of those exaggerated wines from the ‘90s fell apart all too quickly. But this tasting extinguished that uncertainty.

Despite its size, it doesn’t need to be aged for a long time before drinking – you can approach it like a normal Châteauneuf in that respect. In fact it drinks better young than most. It also matures largely at the same pace, so the 2012 for example is beginning to drink very well now.

Daumen says there is a degree of unpredictability with this cuvée, but it’s clear that good vintages age very well. Some, like the 2016, should last for 50 years or more. Such is its life force, you can almost imagine it lasting twice that long.

When it comes to food, a côte de boeuf is the obvious choice. It’s a wine that demands protein, fat and smoky char.

Like the more extreme styles of music, fashion or art, it won’t be for everyone. To be certain, you’ll have to try it.

Ensure you’re in the right mood, in the right company, it’s at the right temperature and you have complementary food. But even if it’s not to your personal taste, it’s hard to argue that this isn’t one of the greatest global expressions of Grenache.

Either way, you won’t forget it in a hurry.

Vieille Julienne Réservé through time:

Wines are listed by vintage from youngest to oldest

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Chile’s rich diversity of quality red wine styles was on full display at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025, with a host of top medals for producers in many regions – including two highly coveted Best in Show accolades.

A deep-rooted vineyard heritage and wide variety of terroirs and microclimates in this long, narrow country, which nestles between the Pacific ocean and the Andes mountains, have provided the perfect foundation for a new generation of talented winemakers to flourish on the international stage.

Efforts to preserve and revitalise old-vine plantings in historic grape-growing regions can be seen in superbly balanced, earthy and juicy reds from varieties including Cinsault, País and Carignan. Carmenère, too, has thrived in Chile during a renaissance for the variety that began in the 1990s.

Scroll down to discover 14 top-scoring wines from Chile

Yet, modern Chilean reds also range from aromatic and fresh Pinot Noir in the cooler climate of Casablanca Valley to elegant Cabernet Sauvignon wines, not to mention exciting projects on the fringes of the Atacama desert in the north.

Such variety means wine lovers are spoilt for choice, but DWWA’s rigorous judging process offers a path to explore this vibrant landscape with confidence. Discover delicious, medal-winning Chilean reds on these pages, and find a perfect bottle for the dinner table.

Explore the full results from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Antiyal, Viñedo Escorial Carmenère, Maipo 2020

97 Best in Show

US$56-$80 AOC Selections, Pogo’s, Royal Wine Merchants

Carmenère is stepping back into the limelight after a century or more of eclipse. This Maipo example has been entirely concrete aged. You’ll

find lifted cherry-plum fruits on the nose, while the palate is deep and serious, and the tannins are there as much to provide flavour as texture. The fruits, too, step back from their primary aromatic focus and seem to grow a little deeper and sterner in the mouth. There are fresher notes, too, though the green tones that have dogged the variety in the past are almost completely absent here. This balanced, classically framed varietal red wine is ready to enjoy now, ideally with food. Alcohol 14.5%

Miguel Torres, La Causa del Itata Cinsault-País-Carignan, Secano Interior, Itata 2022

97 Best in Show

POA £ John E Fells

This is a blend of the traditional (though formerly despised) varieties grown in Chile’s historic regions: Cinsault and Carignan with País. Don’t expect a deeply coloured, black-purple wine: this is a light garnet red. The aromas are warm, earthy, rustic, with an apple-berry perfume behind the dry grass and brush; the flavours are bright, clean, open-pored yet with a sinewy finish that brings vivid yet broad acidity into partnership with firm, resolute tannins. It’s not hard to imagine that this was the way the best red wines tasted in previous centuries in Chile – quenching, satisfying wine for those who’ve worked physically hard all day. Which is to say that it needs, and will reward, informal

food partnerships. Alc 13.5%

Aconcagua

Errazuriz, Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

95 Value Gold

£12 Tesco, Waitrose

Ripe cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate and a lick of eucalyptus permeate the lively nose and palate, which has graphite tannins and a gorgeous black olive finish. Alc 13.5%

Atacama

JP Martin, De Cal Garnacha, Huasco Valley 2022

95 Gold

jpmartin.cl

Eccentric, complex and multidimensional, exuding red berry and smoked spice aromas, along with a bright, saline undertone. Velvety and fine-grained with a zingy, crisp acidity. Alc 12.5%

Cachapoal

San Pedro, Altair 2022

96 Gold

sanpedro.cl

Black cherries and plums complemented by a bright leafiness and an attractive spicy element. Structured and firm, with fine-grained tannins and youthful acidity. Alc 14%

Casablanca Valley

Terranoble, Algarrobo Pinot Noir 2024

96 Gold

terranoble.cl

Charming red plums, sour cherries and decadent florals billow over nose and palate. Crunchy cranberry acidity, silky tannins and a delightful seaweed tang. Alc 12.5%

Colchagua

Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Escudo Rojo Origine Carmenère 2024

97 Platinum

bpdr.com

Delightful plum, cherry and blackberry fruits pave the way to a chocolate richness, layered with tobacco and cigar box oak. Crunchy fruit on the palate with supple tannins and a lift of eucalyptus to finish. Alc 14%

Montes, Purple Angel Carmenère-Petit Verdot 2021

95 Gold

£78.99 Hedonism, North & South

Classy and hedonistic, with captivating aromas of ripe cherries, plums, chocolate and cassis liqueur, all bolstered by a superb oak frame and cigar box tannins. Alc 14.5%

Viña Casa Solís, La Piqueta Reserva Syrah 2024

95 Value Gold

POA £ Press Wine Services

Juicy blue plums and keen floral notes with a charge of peppery spice that envelopes the lovely, approachable structure and lively tannins. Filled with potential and excitement. Alc 13.5%

Maipo

Undurraga, Altazor, Pirque 2021

95 Gold

£63 Hallgarten Wines

Welcoming red berries and florals, bright acidity and fine, graphite tannins, along with an enigmatic, savoury umami character bubbling under the surface. Alc 14.3%

Maule

Miguel Torres, Los Inquietos 02 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

97 Platinum

£50 John E Fells

Abundant fruits of cherry, plum and blackberry with notes of eucalyptus. The polished, elegant structure, silky smooth tannins and pervading acidity reveal the potential of this effortlessly stylish Cabernet, while also emphasising the quality coming from the Maule region. Alc 14.5%

Longaví, Glup País 2023

96 Gold

longaviwines.cl

Enchanting spicy red fruits and lifted florals. A vibrant smoky tension cuts across the bracing acidity and judicious tannins. Great regional typicity. Alc 12.5%

Bouchon, Vigno Carignan 2022

95 Gold

£19 Molson Coors

Red cherries, raspberries and strawberries waft across the nose and infiltrate the energetic palate, which has milk chocolate tannins and a lovely floral grip to end. Compelling. Alc 14%

San Antonio

Cono Sur, Ocio Pinot Noir 2022

96 Gold

POA £ Villeneuve Wines

Alive with red cherry fruit and vibrant florals, delicate herbs lapping at the edges. Firm and serious on the palate with beautifully balanced pencil shaving tannins. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2025 award-winning wines

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What was once one of the most planted grape varieties in France, Carignan was overtaken by international varieties such as Merlot at the end of the 20th century, but is now enjoying a resurgence.

A grape known by many names including Cariñena, Mazuelo and Samsó in Spain, Carignano in Italy and Carignane in the United States, this red grape variety is characterised by thick-skinned berries and high-yielding vines which can retain acidity, even under the hot Mediterranean sun.

Carignan-based wines have deep colour and express aromas of red fruits like raspberry and spicy notes including cinnamon and pepper. They are often medium-bodied with a high level of austere tannins. Best examples will come from old vines (vieilles vignes) which show more concentration and elegance, either as single varietal wines or blends. Garnacha/Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are common blending partners.

Scroll down to discover 14 Carignan wines to try from DWWA 2025

It’s likely to find Carignan-based wines coming from Southern France, especially Languedoc-Roussillon, parts of Spain and Sardinia in Italy. It has also grown to some extent in countries such as Argentina, Chile, Israel and South Africa.

At this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards, Spain’s Priorat renditions of this variety continued to impress the experts with Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa Gran Vinya Classificada 2023 receiving a Best in Show medal. To further underline its quality and potential, judges commented that the ‘purity and finesse of this wine makes a convincing case for Carinyena as the pre-eminent variety for Priorat.’

Chile also saw success with three Gold medals awarded; Italy and France too with a selection of 90+ point varietal wines to seek out.

Carignan Day is held every year on the last Thursday in October. To celebrate, we highlight 14 awarded varietal Carignan wines from DWWA 2025 to try., with more to search at awards.decanter.com

International Carignan Day: 14 awarded wines to celebrate with

Best in Show

Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa Gran Vinya Classificada, Priorat, Spain 2023

Best in Show, 97 points

Priorat has been almost as successful in our Best in Show pantheon as Barolo – this concrete-aged Carinyena is the region’s sixth laureate. This purity and finesse of this wine makes a convincing case for Carinyena as the pre-eminent variety for Priorat – and, contrariwise, for Priorat as the world’s greatest location for Carignan. It’s also a plaudit for concrete ageing, whether in egg or otherwise. The wine is a dark black-red in colour, and the aromas are less fruity than most; it’s one of those wines which seems to smell as much of a landscape as of fruit. It’s only two years old, yet the ageing has been so successfully managed that it has the seamlessness and harmony of a much older wine. On the palate, it is refined, graceful and shawl-like, full of lingering dark-fruit intensity but counterbalanced by the wine’s unstrenuous cashmere tannin and insinuating, palate-lapping acidity: extraordinary finesse for a variety often regarded as workmanlike elsewhere. Alcohol 15.5%

Chile

Bouchon, Vigno, Maule 2022

Gold, 95 points

Compelling red cherries, raspberries and strawberries waft across the nose and infiltrate the energetic palate with milk chocolate tannins and a lovely floral grip to end. Alc 14%

Casas Patronales, Vigno, Cauquenes, Maule 2022

Gold, 95 points

Striking black cherries, plums and delicate florals brim over the palate with its plump texture, plush tannins and evocative smoky acidity. Long and herbaceous. Alc 14%

Undurraga, Vigno, Maule 2022

Gold, 95 points

Inviting inky black forest fruit and clove spice melds with the impressive oak structure, folds into the black tea tannins and encircles the lengthy finish. Alc 14.5%

Morandé, Vigno, Maule 2022

Silver, 90 points

Ripe forest fruit on the nose with ripe strawberries, red currants, plums and a touch of vanilla. Lively and refreshing. Alc 14%

France

Abbotts & Delaunay, Vieilles Vignes, IGP Pays d’Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon 2023

Silver, 90 points

Aromatic nose, with lifted nuances of blackcurrant, wine gums, blueberries, dried herbs and black pepper. Juicy palate, with well-integrated tannins. Alc 13.5%

Claude Vialade, 100 Ans Mon Amour, IGP Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon 2023

Silver, 90 points

Aromas of spring flowers, cocoa, fresh black berries and touches of leathery and smoky undertones. Velvety palate, vibrant and fruity. Alc 13.5%

Israel

Recanati, Reserve Wild, Jerusalem Hills, Judean Hills 2018

Silver, 93 points

Leafy redberry fruit and sour cherries lead into dense black fruits, spice, mocha complexity, and ripe, silky tannins. Alc 14%

Italy

Santadi, Rocca Rubia, Carignano del Sulcis Riserva, Sardinia 2022

Silver, 91 points

Scents of violets, cherry, raspberry, Mediterranean herbs, very refined with fine dusty tannins and long-lasting with red petals finish. Alc 14.5%

Siddùra, Bàcco, Isola dei Nuraghi, Sardinia 2023

Silver, 91 points

Ripe, juicy wild strawberry, damson and liquorice, with intense and complex notes of spice and dried flowers, framed by velvety tannins. Alc 14.5%

Spain

Celler Masroig, Solà Fred, Montsant 2024

Value Gold, 95 points

Alive with red fruit pastille and floral perfumes, the palate also shows punchy cranberry acidity with a sweep of peppery spice and fresh herbs to end. Characterful and friendly. Alc 13.5%

Altavins, Selecció Carinyena, Terra Alta 2020

Silver, 93 points

Oaky nose with vanilla, cedar and blonde tobacco around a core of plummy fruit. Well rounded, with a silky texture. Alc 14.5%

Maset, Reserva 1777, Penedès 2021

Silver, 93 points

Complex on the nose, with aromas of meat, tobacco, dense blackberries, cedar, black plums and espresso. Energetic and vibrant palate. Alc 14%

Tosalet, Priorat 2019

Silver, 92 points

Notes of raspberry, cherry and sweet spices and hints of wet stone. Savoury and spicy on the palate, textured and elegant. Alc 15%

Search all DWWA 2025 results

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You love wine. You love music. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to have the perfect playlist for what’s in your glass?

You might ask, how could any musical recommendation be anything other than personal and subjective?

Stay with me: There is research. Even this sceptical writer with a high-tech background focused on data-driven results has been surprised by what the research data show.

Read Susan R Lin MW’s research on music and wine

Why music and wine? There is nothing like the transporting magical experience of listening to music that resonates deeply.

Wait, there is! You know when it happens: You taste a wine and something happens within you. A strong feeling, a long ago memory, something you can’t quite name surfaces. Suddenly you are on a journey to the past. It is visceral and emotional.

Music is my constant. Since my childhood I listened, I trained, I performed. I still do. Wine fulfils a similar passion, academically and spiritually. Their synergies and wonderful sensorial differences led me to pursue a Master of Fine Arts in piano and musicology, as well as the Master of Wine.

Naturally I had to explore any effects of music on the sensory experience of wine tasting for my Master of Wine Research Paper. What I share with you here is based on my own research, combined with the body of research from other academics.

A quick primer: Music comprises elements, and these were found to have a statistically significant effect on taste perception: pitch (high-low), tempo (fast-slow), timbre (sharp-round) and articulation (dynamic-smooth).

Similarly, wine has sensory characteristics: acidity or freshness, fruitiness, richness, complexity, and for sparkling wines, effervescence.

Despite music and wine being disparate sensory realms, their effects can be strikingly similar.

We often characterise both music and wine with such words as delicate, powerful, vibrant and so on. The combination of these components lend music and wine their overall feel and emotional potential.

The wine playlists: six to try

Research shows that we make intuitive associations between musical elements and taste sense – for instance, high pitch associates with acidity; low pitch can evoke bitterness. This is an oversimplification, of course, and the myriad combinations of elements make for fascinating research.

Based on the research – and a convivial wink from yours truly – here are six playlists to jumpstart your own wine and music journey, each tailored to complement a different style of wine.

Music for light whites

Key features: Freshness, fruitiness, zestiness, delicacy

Musical elements to enhance the tasting experience: High pitch, mid-fast tempo, bright timbre, dynamic articulation; gentle, exciting character.

Click to listen – my starter playlist on YouTube:

• Celtic and/or Chinese harp and flute music
• Pharrell Williams: Happy
• Taylor Swift: Shake It Off
• Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart: Piano Concerto No 23, I Allegro

Music for rich whites

Key features: Oak/baking spices, broad/lush, creamy/textural

Musical elements: Lower pitch, slower tempo, rounder timbre, smoother articulation; layered textures, more powerful yet calm character.

Click to listen – my starter playlist:

• Carlos Santana: Samba Pa Ti
• Orville Peck: Daytona Sand
• Fujii Kaze: Garden
• Claude Debussy: Prelude to the Afternoon of a Faun

Music for light reds

Key features: Fresh, fruity, bright, delicate floral, subtle earth notes

Musical elements: Mid-high pitch, mid-fast tempo, bright timbre, dynamic articulation; gentle, exciting character

Click to listen – my starter playlist:

• Toshiki Kadomatsu: If You (Wanna Dance Tonight)
• Ed Sheeran: Shape of You
• The Weeknd: Out of Time
• Johann Sebastian Bach: Keyboard Concerto No 4, 1st Movement

Music for rich reds

Key features: Texture (tannin shape), oak, intensity of fruit/earth notes, richness, complexity, density

Musical elements: Lower pitch, slower, stately tempo, rich timbre, smoother articulation, layered textures, powerful + calm or powerful + exciting

Click to listen – my starter playlist:

• The Doors: Riders on the Storm
• The Beatles: I Want You (She’s So Heavy)
• Astor Piazzolla: Libertango
• Ludwig van Beethoven: Symphony No 7, 2nd Movement

Music for sparkling wines

Key features: Effervescence, and depending on style (e.g. Prosecco versus a youthful Brut non-vintage Franciacorta versus a vintage Champagne) we use musical elements as levers to highlight the appropriate sensory characteristics in the wine.

Click to listen – my starter playlist for lighter sparkling wines:

• Any well-produced Eurodance or up-tempo 90s/00s pop!
• Earth, Wind, & Fire: September
• Dave Brubeck: Someday My Prince Will Come
• Camille Saint-Saëns: Carnival of the Animals, Finale

Click to listen – my starter playlist for richer, vintage-style sparkling wines:

• Bruno Mars: That’s What I Like
• David Guetta & Sia: Beautiful People
• Frédéric Chopin: Piano Concerto No1, 3rd Movement
• Johannes Brahms: Violin Concerto, 3rd Movement

Given the incredible wealth of music available, it was challenging to pare the lists down to a few selections – nonetheless, these lists demonstrate the power of different combinations of elements and character to bring a similar effect across varied musical genres.

Hopefully this has your creative juices flowing and you’ll be inspired to explore further!

Let your senses and emotions guide you. Allow yourself to sink into the feelings you experience. Be transported to someplace familiar – and perhaps to someplace new. Go forth and create your own music and wine adventure.

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Italy editor James Button rounded up a crack team of Decanter‘s regular expert Italian contributors, got them to open their address books and share their pearls of wisdom about that most renowned of Italian regions – Tuscany.

Following on from part one, in part two they share their favourite places to go in Florence, Lucca and Chianti Classico, and reveal the best place to try a true Tuscan delicacy – tripe!

See below for our experts’ insider tips on travelling and dining in Tuscany

For a fine time in Florence

Antonella Lotti says… ‘A real treat, Michelin one-star Borgo San Jacopo offers stunning views across the Arno river in Florence. Helmed by executive chef Claudio Mengoni and head sommelier Salvatore Biscotti.’

Richard Baudains says… ‘In the very lively Borgo Ognissanti in Florence, Vino al Vino offers a highly personal selection of wines by the glass and to take away, from producers hard or impossible to find elsewhere. And just down the street is one of the very few churches in Firenze where you can find Renaissance masterpieces with no entry fee.’

Arianna Nieri says… ‘My insider’s tip for f ish and seafood lovers is L’Angolo del Mare, on the corner of Viale Edmondo de Amicis, a little to the east of the city centre.’

Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Located in the laid-back Oltrarno neighbourhood, just south of the river but within walking distance of the city’s most renowned attractions, Il Santo Bevitore is my favourite spot in Florence for dinner. Slightly more sophisticated than the usual Florentine trattoria but still welcoming and unpretentious, the menu is all about Tuscan classics with a contemporary twist, including outstanding fegatini (toasted bread with liver paté) and carabaccia (traditional onion soup). The wine list is extensive and well thought-out.’

Åsa Johansson says… ‘Head to the Tripperia Pollini food truck on Piazza Sant’Ambrogio (pictured above), Florence, for the ultimate panino with tripe (lampredotto). Add a plastic cup of rustic red wine and you’ve got street food perfection, Tuscan style!’

Antonella Lotti says… ‘Discover the original cantucci (almond biscotti) at Antonio Mattei in Florence and Prato out a little to its northwest.’

A few must-dos in Lucca

Cristina Mercuri says… ‘Located in the heart of Lucca, L’Imbuto is run by chef Cristiano Tomei, who provides a truly creative and experimental dining experience.’

Filippo Magnani says… ‘Situated in labyrinthine cellars dating back to 200CE, Enoteca Vanni (pictured above) has been a true temple of wine in Lucca since 1965. Paolo Petroni welcomes visitors in atmospheric surroundings crammed full of some 3,000 different wines and a wide range of grappa and liqueurs. This wine shop and bar is an essential stop for any wine lover who wishes to enjoy delightful Tuscan tapas paired beautifully with an outstanding Tuscan wine selection and Italian bubbles.’

Raffaele Mosca says… ‘Former Slow Wine Guide editor, now author and consultant Fabio Pracchia recently opened Santa Goccia, a small but welcoming wine bar in the heart of Lucca. The selection reflects his own passion for low-intervention wine, ranging from biodynamic local producers to rare gems from the Canary Islands.’ (Also recommended by Åsa Johansson)

Snack attack!

Cristina Mercuri says… ‘You absolutely must try cecina. It’s a traditional Tuscan flatbread made with chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt. Baked until golden and slightly crispy on top, it has a soft, custardy inside. It’s best enjoyed warm with a sprinkle of black pepper.

Filippo Magnani says… ‘Each day, Francesca and Cristina open the door of historic driver’s stop Da Alcide on the Via Aurelia, the ancient Roman route from Pisa to Rome. They offer a variety of Tuscan salamis and sheep’s cheeses, crafting panini and snacks on request.’

Sarah Lane says… ‘I’d stop for a snack of local cheese with wine at Gino Cacino di Angelo, an atmospheric, Aladdin’s den-type deli on the Piazza del Mercato in Siena. There’s always an imaginative selection of panini with tasty combinations of fillings and all sorts of foodie items for sale.’

Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘Mollica’s (pictured above) is a food truck that can usually be found in Follonica on the Tuscan coast. It’s worth looking out for their products in the deli section of Conad supermarkets in Tuscany. They serve quintessentially Tuscan panini and classic dishes including, of course, lampredotto (tripe) and porchetta (roasted rolled pork). Mollica’s is the brainchild of Silvia and Mattia, uncompromising advocates for Tuscan authenticity.’

Chianti Classico essentials

Åsa Johansson says… ‘Located just to the southeast of Florence, Fattoria Castel Ruggero in the far north of the Chianti Classico region is a hidden gem – a private estate with one of Italy’s most enchanting gardens and a peaceful, authentic atmosphere far from the tourist trail.’

Michaela Morris says… ‘Enoteca Baldi in Panzano is where the local winemakers hang out. All the Chianti Classico you could want and much more, including a drool-worthy selection of Champagne!’ (Also recommended by Emily O’Hare)

Emily O’Hare says… ‘Bottega a Campana is a deli with a kitchen and local bottles to pull off the shelves or from the fridge yourself. A high-quality pit stop in Panzano, central Chianti Classico, with plenty of options beyond a sandwich or elaborate salads, and a daily changing menu of fresh seasonal dishes.’

Åsa Johansson says… ‘Ristoro di Lamole is the epitome of a classic Italian trattoria, set high in the Lamole hills with a jaw-dropping view over the Chianti Classico countryside. The food, service and wine list are consistently outstanding, never missing a beat.’

Michaela Morris says… ‘At Chianti Classico’s highest heights, the tiny enclave Fattoria Castel Ruggero Enoteca Baldi of Lamole is like stepping back in time. Producer I Fabbri is the reference here and owner Susanna Grassi is a warm and welcoming host. Book lunch or dinner at nearby Ristoro di Lamole (see Åsa Johansson’s choice above) to take in the sweeping views.’

Gabriele Gorelli MW says… ‘Riecine, at Gaiole in Chianti, is a truly innovative and enticing Chianti Classico experience: a small winery that has been certified organic for almost a decade. The wines, made by winemaker and proprietor Alessandro Campatelli, are beautiful expressions of great terroir, the views are off the scale, and modern art pieces designed for the spaces add something delightfully different to the visitor experience.’

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Swiss wine is one of the wine world’s greatest hidden secrets.

This discreet and exclusive country only has about 15,000ha planted to vineyards, according to the national wine body Swiss Wine Promotion, producing around 0.4% of the global total.

Despite the country’s tiny size, there is incredible diversity in its soils, landscapes and grape varieties, creating notable differences among its wines. Its highest vineyard sites are perched above 1,100m.

See Robin Kick MW’s selection of Switzerland’s finest red and white wines

Vertiginous variety

Chiselled into steep hillsides, they provide sun-kissed, well-drained patches of land perfect for grape growing. Lakeside vineyards are bathed in gentle breezes, offering unique microclimates.

The country’s vineyards are spread across six wine regions.

Valais is the largest and is home to the highest concentration of the country’s indigenous grape varieties.

Vaud, the second largest, encompasses most of the vineyards along Lake Geneva’s shores.

The other regions are: Geneva, known for its experimental spirit; Ticino, the heart of Swiss Merlot; Three Lakes, which includes lake Neuchâtel, is a top area for Pinot Noir; and finally Deutschschweiz, a region that encompasses several German-speaking cantons, including Graubünden, Zurich, Schaffhausen and Thurgau.

Great grape diversity

Swiss Wine Promotion notes 168 grape varieties currently registered by the national Federal Statistical Office for use in the canton-based AOC system, although fewer than 100 are planted on an area of at least 2ha.

Many varieties are indigenous, and at more than 3,400ha Chasselas (called Fendant in Valais) is its most planted white grape.

Though it can be shy when young, exceptional versions from top terroirs are capable of ageing for many years, revealing notable complexity.

Chasselas is the variety to pair with sumptuous cheese fondues, but its food-friendly style makes it capable of accompanying many other dishes, such as lake fish and seafood.

Over the past 15 years or so, Petite Arvine has been winning over aficionados’ hearts and palates with its crisp acidity, peachy core and saline finish.

But there are so many other varieties worth seeking out: Räuschling, Humagne Blanche and Amigne, as well as Heida (aka Païen or Savagnin) to name a few.

Beguiling reds

Reds can be beguiling, too. Cornalin, whose origins are not entirely defined but are thought to lie in neighbouring Aosta in northern Italy, has taken on its own deep, vinous personality in Valais.

Well-known international varieties such as Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot can also produce world-class results.

Less constrained by the traditions that define many of its neighbours, Switzerland approaches wine with pragmatism and a spirit of innovation.

Agroscope, the country’s trailblazing research institute, has introduced pioneering grape crossings over the years, such as Gamaret, Garanoir, Diolinoir and Doral, alongside resilient Piwi varieties such as Divico – crafted with ecological sustainability in mind.

While less than 2% of Swiss wine leaves the country, its rare gems are increasingly making their way onto international shelves – especially in the UK, US and Asia – while also garnering more attention thanks to the accolades they’ve received from competitions such as the Decanter World Wine Awards.

There has never been a better moment to discover the singular charm of Switzerland’s wines.

Breath of mountain air: 18 Swiss wines to try

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Tuscany is like a great bottle of wine; lovingly created and carefully aged. The longer you spend contemplating its rich hues, the better it gets.

This breathtaking region boasts rolling hills that are home to some of Italy’s most celebrated wine appellations, as well as some of the oldest – some dating back to the 18th century.

Among them you will find iconic Chianti Classico, elegant Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the princess of whites Vernaccia di San Gimignano, bold Carmignano, and probably the most important collective wine brand in Italy: the rich Brunello di Montalcino.

Base yourself in the vibrant city of Florence, just a scenic drive away from the enchanting Chianti Classico region where you’ll find wineries paired with Michelin-starred dining experiences, opulent resorts and the homes of famous names like Michelangelo, Dante or Petrarca.

If you’re craving something a bit more off the beaten path, head to the Apennine mountains to enjoy the refreshing biodiversity of the Mugello and Casentino regions, sipping some crunchy Tuscan Pinot Noir! For art lovers, this is where another famous painter was born: Giotto.

Visit the coast

Whether you choose to make the medieval cities of Florence or Siena (both Unesco world heritage sites), or an agriturismo by the sea your home for a few days, you can ride some truly picturesque roads southwest bound for Tuscany’s coastal vineyards.

Notable are the acclaimed SuperTuscan wineries in the Bolgheri DOC area, where you can leisurely cruise down enchanting lanes lined with centuries-old cypress trees. And for those looking to escape the bustling crowds, the hidden gems of the Morellino di Scansano, Montecucco and Maremma wine trails await your discovery!

More than wine

A Tuscan wine tour is far more than just a quick stop at a roadside bar; it’s a deep dive into the region’s rich heritage and enchanting landscapes. Picture yourself meandering through the ruins of ancient churches and standing in the very places that inspired the genius of Leonardo da Vinci.

And let’s not forget – the simple culinary magic of Tuscany steals the show. Expect to indulge in some delicious research on perfect Tuscan wine and food pairings as you explore this gastronomic paradise always built on simple ingredients, clean architectures and incredibly preserved landscapes.

We’ve curated a list of 10 must-visit Tuscan wineries, each offering an unforgettable experience that will enhance your journey. It’s the ultimate guide to savouring the heart of Tuscany on your next adventure. Cheers to new discoveries!

Travel tips

Getting around these wineries ideally requires a car, as many are situated in rural, secluded locations.

Distances between the wineries listed below can be significant, so plan for several days of visits and group them by area for the most efficient approach.

Florence area

Capezzana and Castello di Nipozzano are both easily accessible from Florence, making a morning visit from the city a breeze.

Chianti Classico

Antinori and Castello di Querceto are situated in Chianti Classico, known for its winding roads and medieval villages. While still not too far from Florence, there’s plenty to explore here – including some fantastic restaurants – so it’s best to allow a full day (or two) to take in the views and enjoy the wines with food.

The coast (Bolgheri & Maremma)

The coastal wineries are more spread out, and this route offers a different feel, with stunning coastal views, dotted with scrubland, plane trees and cypresses, and more of a focus on international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

South-Central Tuscany (Montalcino & Montepulciano)

The hilltop towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano are less than an hour apart by car, but they each pack in plenty of wineries you might want to visit, aside from those recommended below. Allow at least one full day to sample the delights of these Sangiovese strongholds.

Your Tuscan references

Read these other helpful articles from Decanter to ensure you get the most from your Tuscan wine tour:

Baudains: How Tuscany created Europe’s first DOCs

Terre di Pisa: Bridging the coastal and continental styles of Tuscany

Expert’s Choice: Coastal Tuscany

City guide to Florence

Lucca – 10 must-visits for food and wine lovers

Decanter’s Dream Destination: Villa La Massa, Tuscany, Italy

Decanter’s Dream Destination: Borgo San Vincenzo, Tuscany, Italy

Florence area

Capezzana

Carmignano, northwest of Florence

Why? A historic, rustic cellar tour with all the traditional wines on show from the Carmignano DOCG – plus benchmark Vin Santo.

Just a few miles from Florence, towards Prato, is Capezzana. The estate has been producing wine and extra-virgin olive oil since 804 AD.

The Contini Bonacossi family has been running the estate since the 1920s. The youngest members – Oscar, Ettore, Giulia and Duccio – created the newest aspect of the winery; a wine bar called La Vinsantaia where guests can enjoy informal wine tastings, as well as food.

This is a large, diversified estate, with 650 hectares of forest, organic vineyards and olive groves, and a cookery school. In summer, don’t miss the terrace with the view of Florence’s Duomo, and leave room to taste one of Tuscany’s greatest wines, Vin Santo – a dessert wine made from grapes left to dry out on special racks.

For those looking to buy, the winery has a great list of library vintages of the great Villa di Capezzana, starting from the 1930s.

Visits: Open Monday to Sunday. Twice-daily tours start from €40 per person for a tour and tasting that includes five wines. Other tasting options are available. Booking in advance is recommended.

Restaurant: La Vinsantaia wine bar offers food based on organic products, plus a range of the estate’s wines.

Address and contact: Via Capezzana 100, 59015 Carmignano; +39 055 8706005

Castello Nipozzano

Rufina, east of Florence

Why? What could be more Tuscan than tasting wine in a 1,000-year-old castle made from vines grown in the surrounding farm and owned by Florentine nobility?

Built to guard Florence, great artists such as Donatello and Michelozzo Michelozzi regularly purchased wine from the estate. It was destroyed in 1944, but has been partially rebuilt and you can still view the original cellar at the Renaissance villa.

Nipozzano is the real thing; a true working farm, and a big one at that with more than 600ha, including olive trees and an on-site olive press. Chianina and Angus cows can be seen roaming free in the fields.

A visit will include a tour of the monumental cellars used to age Chianti Rùfina, the higher altitude appellation in the Chianti area. Other highlights include the tasting room in an old kitchen, as well as the views of perfectly maintained vineyards across the valley.

If you are there to buy, the old vintages start from 1864 – but Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi is very fond of the 1960, 1974 or 1981.

There is no restaurant, but you can request that your visit includes a meal using products grown on the property.

Visits: Visits must be booked in advance. You can also book a stay in one of four exclusive rooms in the village of Castello Nipozzano.

Address and contact: Via di Nipozzano, 50060 Pelago, Florence; +39 055 8311050

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Chianti Classico

Antinori nel Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico

Why? Antinori’s Chianti Classico estate offers slick architecture and a modern wine tour from one of Tuscany’s most historic families.

Less than 20km from the heart of Florence, right off the main highway going to Siena, is Antinori’s stunning Chianti Classico winery. Set among olive groves and geometrically aligned vineyards in Bargino, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, the low profile winery is set into the hillside.

The Antinori family has been in the wine business since 1385, and here you will find an active and prolific wine empire that boasts two of Italy’s top wines: Tignanello and Solaia, produced nearby.

Inaugurated in 2012, the winery, designed by leading Italian architect Marco Casamonti, has more than 600 years of winemaking on display in its wine museum. There is a book shop, art collection and, of course, wine bar and tasting rooms.

All of this is housed within a structure using local terracotta, conceived to generate the perfect climatic conditions needed for the barrels. An incredible iron spine to the building gives the sensation that the floor is actually suspended above the foundation.

Visits: Group tours (private tours available to book too) run throughout the day for €45 per person – booking essential if you would like the tour in English. This 1.5-hour tour takes you from the rooftop vineyard to the various production areas, finishing in the wine museum, where a tasting of three wines will take place.

Prefer a tasting without the tour? The ‘Tuscan Stories’ tasting (€30 per person) guides you through Tuscany with four representative wines from Antinori’s estates.

Looking to taste some of the company’s most iconic wines? The ‘CRU Tour’ (€180 per person, including lunch) take place in the intimate Bottaia room or in the evocative suspended room overlooking the barrel cellar, before concluding with lunch and more wines in the Rinuccio 1180 on-site restaurant.

Restaurant: Rooftop restaurant Rinuccio 1180 offers a seasonal menu with panoramic views.

Address and contact: Via Cassia per Siena 133, 50026 Bargino, San Casciano in Val di Pesa; +39 055 2359700

Castello di Querceto

Chianti Classico

Why? A centuries-old castle nestled in the high Chianti Classico hills, surrounded by vineyards and oak woods – the ideal setting for those seeking an authentic, unhurried taste of Tuscany.

Owned by the François family for over 125 years, Castello di Querceto is a hidden gem in the Greve in Chianti countryside. Built in a commanding position overlooking the valley, the castle — surrounded by Italian gardens where elegant peacocks roam — has retained its noble charm, with battlements, stone courtyards, and cellars still housing vintages dating back to 1904, a lot of them in spectacular condition.

This is one of the coolest areas of Chianti Classico, probably even considered too cold in the past, but which is now flourishing as climate change warms things up.

Castello di Querceto has 65 hectares of vineyards, where Sangiovese holds a place of honour. Each parcel offers distinct soils and exposures, making the estate a pioneer of single-vineyard expressions long before the concept of ‘cru’ became fashionable.

Castello di Querceto is best known for its Chianti Classico range — from the fresh and vibrant Chianti Classico and ageworthy Riserva, to the two Gran Selezione wines, Il Picchio and La Corte, the crown jewels of its production.

Hospitality here is welcoming and deeply Tuscan. Ten rustic-style apartments — some inside the castle, others in the surrounding farmhouse — offer an authentic countryside retreat, complete with terracotta floors, wood-beamed ceilings and views of the vineyards.

A swimming pool tucked among the trees and easy access to Florence (just 30km away) make it a peaceful yet connected base for exploring Tuscany. Visitors can book tastings and guided tours of the castle, winery and ancient cellar. The experience may include a walk through the historical wine archive, a taste of the estate’s traditional Vin Santo with cantucci, or a visit to the private chapel and family tower.

Visits: Tastings and tours are available for guests and visitors by appointment on weekdays and Saturday mornings. They range from €18 for a guided three-wine tasting, to €35 for a guided tour of the castle with its ancient tower, winemaking facilities, wine library and more.

Address and contact: Via A. François, 2 – 50022 Greve in Chianti; +39 055 85921

The coast (Bolgheri & Maremma)

Prima Pietra

Riparbella

Why? If the numbers of cyclists and tourists in and around Bolgheri is overwhelming, then Riparbella is your antidote. Its remote tranquility makes for the perfect setting to taste a vertical of SuperTuscan wines.

Prima Pietra was the first winery bought by Massimo Ferragamo and the team has been making Bordeaux blends here since 2007.

After a drive into the small town of Riparbella, you come to the gates of Prima Pietra and the first thing to hit you is the tranquil scene across the Tuscan coast from high up in the hills.

Walk the vineyards with a glass of Chardonnay in hand, followed by a tour of the cellar and a tasting of older vintages in the tasting room, with a view to die for.

Visits: Experiences range from the ‘Classico’ including a tour plus tasting of three wines, to verticals, cooking classes and even sunset sips in the vineyard and harvest festivals. The winery advises that you book ahead.

Restaurant: There isn’t a restaurant, but if you book ahead then you can order a plate of Tuscan cheeses served with fresh bread, extra virgin olive oil from Castiglion del Bosco (see below), and honey.

Address and contact: Loc. I Prati – 56046 – Riparbella; +39 0586 1948 001

Cantina Meraviglia

Bolgheri

Why? Cantina Meraviglia is not just a production facility; it’s a hospitality project like no other. It aims to be a remarkable space for experiences where wine and landscape are intertwined in an unbreakable bond.

Get ready, because the winery will officially open its doors to the public this September [2025]! It’s the most recent project in Tuscany by Alejandro Bulgheroni, who invested in the renovation of Dievole in Chianti Classico, Podere Brizio and Poggio Landi in Montalcino, and now Cantina Meraviglia on the Tuscan coast.

While the other cellars have been gracefully renovated, Meraviglia is a brand new and visionary architectural project where the cellar sinks into an abandoned quarry. The facility will make the wines for both Tenuta Meraviglia and Tenuta Le Colonne, sister estates situated close to each other.

Visits: All tours are exclusive and available by advance reservation, and include a convenient pick-up service from the parking area.

By reservation, visitors will have the chance to tour the winery daily, immersing themselves in the culture of wine and stories of the region. The tour will place a special emphasis on the unique architecture of the building, the vision behind the project, and how the quarry’s characteristics influence wine production — such as temperature control, humidity and stability.

Enhance your visit with a 4×4 tour of the vineyards, reaching Vigna Pianali, the origin of the homonymous cru which is available to taste.

As a grand finale, guests will have the opportunity to sample some older vintages of the estate’s most prestigious wines in a vertical tasting held in the captivating wine library — a glass-enclosed room suspended above the ageing barrels.

Restaurant: After the tour, guests can choose to stop by the Bistró Toscano at sister estate Tenuta Le Colonne for a delightful lunch, dinner or aperitif.

Address and contact: Via Vecchia Aurelia, 418, 57022 Donoratico; +39 0565 775246

Tenuta Sette Cieli

Bolgheri/Monteverdi Marittimo

Why? From Lombardy to Tuscany, from the silk area in Como to that of wine in Bolgheri. This is the story of Ambrogio Cremona Ratti, who wanted to pour his heart and soul into the highest winery in the area of Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci. Ambrogio has chosen one of the most dynamic winemakers in Tuscany, Elena Pozzolini, who firmly holds the reins of this company’s production.

It takes a 15-minute drive up through the woods along a white road to reach the 10 hectares of dry stone wall terraced vineyards (plus another five hectares from a winery within the Bolgheri DOC) at an altitude of 400 metres, yet close to the sea. From here you get a stunning panorama of Bolgheri below, and you face the historic vineyard of Sassicaia, named for the presence of stones – and Sette Cieli’s vineyards seem to share the same profile.

At Tenuta Sette Cieli, the invitation extends beyond just wine tasting; the estate offers immersive hospitality experiences. Visitors can partake in guided tours of the vineyards and engage in tastings that delve into the artistry of the winemaking process.

These visits provide an opportunity to appreciate the breathtaking scenery and stunning beauty of the surrounding landscape. It’s a chance to connect deeply with the essence of the estate and the dedication behind each bottle, while learning the craft of fine winemaking and hearing all kinds of anecdotes from Elena.

Visits: Tastings and tours available for guests and visitors by appointment.

Address and contact: Azienda Agricola Tenuta dei Sette Cieli, Monteverdi Marittimo; +39 0586 677435

Castello di Vicarello

Cinigiano

Why? A medieval hamlet turned boutique wine retreat in the unspoiled Maremma – now an award-winning destination perched on a hilltop surrounded by olive groves and vineyards.

Castello di Vicarello is an unexpected blend of historic stone buildings, contemporary style and winemaking vision. This little 12th century borgo with its fortress, lovingly restored by the Baccheschi Berti family, overlooks the Ombrone Valley with views that stretch to Monte Amiata and the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Far from Tuscany’s usual routes, it offers a different kind of wine experience: intimate, refined and rooted in place.

The estate’s seven hectares of organically farmed vineyards are divided across three distinctive sites, all planted at ultra-high densities and trained to alberello toscano, a traditional bush-trained system, here reinterpreted for modern precision and terroir focus.

The wines reflect this meticulous approach: ‘Castello di Vicarello’, a classic Bordeaux blend, has been the estate’s flagship wine since 2004.

But Castello di Vicarello is not just about wine. The ancient borgo has been transformed into one of Tuscany’s most exclusive retreats, with 10 individually designed suites and a newly added private villa, all surrounded by gardens, olive groves, two beautiful swimming pools – and silence.

From vineyard walks and tastings to cooking classes, yoga in the forest, or leather workshops with local artisans, the experience is tailored for those who seek beauty and authenticity in every detail. A place one would want to live in.

Visits: Tastings and tours available for guests and visitors by appointment.

Restaurant: Seasonal menus by executive chef Massimiliano Volonterio celebrate local, organic ingredients.

Address and contact: Poggi del Sasso, Cinigiano; +39 0564 990718

South-Central Tuscany (Montalcino & Montepulciano)

Castiglion del Bosco

Montalcino

Why? Slick, fashionable and indulgent, with several wine tour experts on hand, two wonderful restaurants and its own truffle forests.

Massimo Ferragamo bought this estate – a small hamlet in Montalcino complete with 13th century church and frescos – in 2003. Not only did he create a beautiful winery producing modern-style Brunello, he has also a built the splendid Rosewood resort with two great restaurants, a spa and one of Italy’s most sought-after golf courses, designed by Tom Weiskopf. Ferragamo sold the estate in 2022 but the family still has ties with the property.

Visits: Various types of visit that can be arranged at a time to suit, depending on your interests. Booking beforehand is required.

The signature tour of one hour is broken down into a vineyard visit, a tour of the cellar and culminates in a wine tasting. Cheese fans might like to opt for the six-wine and cheese pairing option, complete with a tour of the Capanna vineyard and wine cellars.

There is also the option of a six-vintage vertical tasting of Brunello di Montalcino.

Looking for an elite experience? Castiglion del Bosco and Podere le Ripi have teamed up to offer ‘Brunello in Flight’, a helicopter tour of the two estates which concludes with lunch at Michelin-starred Il Silene.

Restaurant: The main restaurant, Campo del Drago, is known for its excellent fare in elegant surroundings. For a more casual dining experience, there is a traditional trattoria and cosy wine bar with a stunning terrace overlooking the valley. And the wine list offers top Italian wines at great prices.

We would thoroughly recommend booking for lunch in either; both are overseen by head chef Matteo Temperini.

All the ingredients are grown in the hamlet in a fantastic organic vegetable garden.

Address and contact: Castiglion del Bosco, 53024 Montalcino Siena; +39 0577 1913001

Podere Forte

Castiglione d’Orcia

Why? In 1997, Podere Forte marked the beginning of an intriguing exploration at the heart of the Val d’Orcia hills, an area recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004.

In this enchanting setting, bees buzz among the flowers in the botanical garden, aromatic herbs fill the air with captivating scents, and various animal species, such as Cinta Senese pigs and goats, enrich the life of Podere Forte. The true protagonist here is the wine, a guardian of a millennia-old tradition and a symbol of the commitment the estate has towards its own history.

Podere Forte is a treasure among the hills, designed as a self-sufficient ecosystem where every element — from the soil to the sky, from plants to animals — plays an essential role in maintaining the natural balance necessary for sustainable, high-quality production.

The biodynamic practices employed are concrete and measurable – informed by science – and dedicated to regulating the rhythm of the seasons and organising agricultural work.

Strolling through the gardens, framed by breathtaking views, visitors are led into an experience that follows the fascinating journey of the grape, from meticulous selection to the contemplative silence of the cellar.

An unexpected treat here is the Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine, made of Sangiovese grown at almost 500 metres above sea level and aged for five years on the lees; serious structure, very refined perlage, and an amazing mineral complexity.

Visits: During a guided tour, visitors can immerse themselves in engaging stories that transform each encounter with the estate into a memorable and educational experience. Guests are welcomed with warmth and care, embarking on a journey that goes beyond mere knowledge. Visits can be booked directly on the website.

Tours range from ‘Classic’ (€65 per person), with a tour of the winery plus a tasting of three wines, to ‘Premium’ which encompasses all the wines of the estate (€295 pp).

Address and contact: Località Petrucci, 13, 53023 Castiglione d’Orcia; +39 0577 8885100

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Is Tablas Creek’s Muscardin the only pure varietal bottling of this grape produced in the world?

Muscardin comes from the Rhône Valley, but I’m not aware of any single-variety bottlings produced there. Or anywhere else for that matter.

Matt’s notes for the Tablas Creek varietal Châteauneuf wines listed below

In fact, before tasting Tablas Creek’s 2023 Muscardin, aside from a few barrel samples in the Rhône, I’d never encountered a pure example of this intriguing red grape.

This bottling represents the culmination of Tablas Creek’s 20-year mission to plant all 16 varieties grown at its sister winery Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

In doing so, it’s shone a light on some esoteric grape varieties that deserve to be better known – some of which are rapidly gaining popularity both in their natural home and abroad.

Tablas Creek’s quest

It all started when Jean-Pierre and François Perrin of Château de Beaucastel got to know Robert Haas, owner of US importer Vineyards Brands.

They spent two decades travelling the US and promoting their wine together, and would often discuss how the hot, dry Californian climate was a good match for the grape varieties of Châteauneuf.

They were so convinced that together they bought a 49ha site in Paso Robles, 12km from the Pacific Ocean in what is now the Adelaida District. They named it Tablas Creek, after the little stream that ran through it. Since Robert’s passing, the estate is now managed by his son, Jason Haas.

When comparing the two terroirs of Châteauneuf and Paso Robles, Haas says: ‘There are more similarities than differences – that’s why we picked this spot’.

Although there are no pudding stones (galets roulés) in Paso, both terroirs have a limestone bedrock.

The way the two properties work is also aligned: both estates are farmed biodynamically and are not irrigated.

But when it comes to the climate in Paso, ‘almost everything is more extreme,’ says Haas.

The difference between summer and winter temperatures, the difference between day and night temperatures, and the rainfall patterns – particularly the harsh drought conditions in Paso between April and November.

Importing the cultivars

To ensure top-quality plant material, the collaborators imported cuttings directly from Beaucastel, the first vines arriving at Tablas Creek in 1990. After a mandatory three-year quarantine period, planting began in 1994.

They started with a handful of key red varieties: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Counoise. The initial white grapes were Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Piquepoul Blanc.

In 2003, they decided to bring over the remaining cultivars found at Beaucastel: Cinsault, Terret Noir, Muscardin, Vaccarèse in red; Picardan, Clairette Blanche and Bourboulenc in white.

Fellow Châteauneuf geeks will have noticed the two interlopers: neither Marsanne nor Viognier are permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They are grown at Beaucastel for use in its white Côtes du Rhône Le Coudoulet.

Beaucastel only grows 14 of the 18 permitted Châteauneuf grapes. So what about those remaining four varieties – would Tablas Creek ever consider planting Clairette Rose, Grenache Gris, Piquepoul Gris or Piquepoul Noir?

‘It would be fun… but we have no plans to,’ says Haas.

Why pure?

Given that Beaucastel’s classic Châteauneuf bottlings are blends, and Tablas Creek’s top bottlings are too, you might ask yourself – why are they bottling all these grapes pure?

Firstly, as ‘one of the standard bearers of the Rhône movement in America,’ Haas felt it was important for Tablas Creek to grow the full Beaucastel collection.

And while he admits he ‘wasn’t always expecting greatness,’ he was often amazed at how good some of the more unusual grapes could be.

‘We kept getting surprised,’ he says. Some of them surprised me too.

The tasting

The winemaking style here is all about clarity and precision, so the characteristics of each grape can be easily discerned – there’s no excessive new oak or reductive winemaking to cover up the details.

This range puts a spotlight on classic varietal character – they could even be used in a classroom to illustrate the personality of these different grapes.

Possible exceptions are the lean Viognier and pretty Mourvèdre, both of which are made in a different style to most French examples.

In red, the Grenache and Syrah really show their natural class. Cinsault and Counoise are both seeing something of a reappraisal in the Rhône currently, and these bottlings from Tablas Creek prove that they can do brilliantly elsewhere too.

The Muscardin and Terret Noir shared certain similarities: they are more light and smashable, more about flowers and herbs than generous fruits.

The whites if anything were even more consistent. Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette and Grenache Blanc are responsible for some of the best whites in the Rhône Valley, and they didn’t disappoint here either.

What surprised me was how well some of the lesser-known varieties performed – the Bourboulenc, Piquepoul and Picardan were also excellent. All three have relatively high acidity, and Haas rightly states that in a warming climate, ‘acid is more valuable than it’s ever been’.

On the back of this tasting, I hope Haas changes his mind about planting those other unsung grapes.

Sometimes it takes an outsider to see the true value of something that locals take for granted. Hopefully Tablas Creek’s embrace of these more unusual Châteauneuf grapes might encourage more winemakers to give them a chance – both in California and back home in the Rhône.

Pure varietal Châteauneuf

While most Châteauneuf-du-Papes are blends, making single variety wines from any of the 18 permitted grapes is allowed by the appellation.

Here are some examples:

Grenache – pure bottlings are quite common, such as Domaine la Barroche’s Pure, Domaine de la Janasse’s Chaupin and Domaine de Cristia’s Vieilles Vignes

Syrah – Domaine Saint-Paul’s L’Insolite

Mourvèdre – Mas de Boislauzon’s Tintot

Cinsault – Famille Isabel Ferrando’s F601

Vaccarèse – Château des Fines Roches’ Forget me Not is 90% Vaccarèse

Grenache Blanc – Château de Vaudieu’s Clos du Belvédère

Clairette Blanche – Domaine André Mathieu’s Vin di Felibre

Clairette Rose – La Bastide St-Dominique’s Chapelle

Roussanne – Domaine Raymond Usseglio’s Pure Roussanne

Bourboulenc – Domaine de Saint Siffrein’s Le Berlou

Picardan – Château de Vaudieu’s Le Picardan

The Châteauneuf single variety collection at Tablas Creek:

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National Chianti Day was originally conceived by importer, Santa Margherita USA – which represents Chianti Classico estates Santa Margherita and Lamole di Lamole – and aims to highlight the qualities of the famed area in Tuscany.

It’s an area of rolling hills, cypress, chestnut and oak trees, olive groves, villas, stone castles and – of course – wineries aplenty.

Below, we have highlighted some delicious Chianti recommendations, and not a fiasco (the traditional round bottle in a straw basket) in sight! You’ll find some picks from the established names of Frescobaldi and Barone Ricasoli as well as some UK supermarket recommendations.

Chianti & Chianti Classico: What’s the difference?

It’s easy to look past the differences between Chianti and Chianti Classico, but these Sangiovese-based wines actually belong to two distinct DOCGs (similar to the AOC system in France).

While Chianti DOCG constitutes a vast 15,500 hectares of vines, Chianti Classico DOCG is concentrated on the original, hilly zone situated halfway between Florence and Siena and totals 6,800ha of vineyard.

Chianti Classico was a subzone of Chianti from its inception in 1967 until 1996, when it was granted its own separate DOCG. The vineyards here are typically at higher altitudes than those of Chianti DOCG.

Chianti: What’s in the blend?

Chianti DOCG wines must be a minimum of 70% Sangiovese, but Chianti Classico DOCG wines demand a minimum of 80%. Both DOCGs permit the use of local and international varieties: Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Foglia Tonda, Malvasia Nera, Mammolo, Pugnitello, and also major international varieties, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Chianti DOCG permits a maximum of 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc, and a maximum of 10% of white varieties Malvasia and Trebbiano. Chianti Classico DOCG is no longer permitted to include white varieties in the blend.

Ageing requirements

Chianti DOCG wines can be sold from 1 March in the year after vintage, often suitable for drinking young.

Chianti Classico DOCG wines increase minimum ageing to around 12 months, being sold from 1 October in the year after vintage. This can give the wines greater complexity and cohesion, and helps to round off the raw edges of youth.

Classification hierarchy

Chianti DOCG has three classifications: Chianti, Chianti Superiore and Chianti Riserva. It also has seven sub-zones (such as Rùfina and Colli Fiorentini) which each have their own, stricter requirements including lower yields, longer ageing and higher alcohol.

Chianti Classico DOCG also has three classifications: Chianti Classico (known as ‘annata’), Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

Changes were recently made to the Gran Selezione regulations including increasing the minimum required Sangiovese content from 80% to 90%, and introducing 11 sub-zones.

Decanter’s picks for National Chianti Day:

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With a legacy as rich as the soil that nurtures its vines, Cabernet Sauvignon stands an international aristocrat amongst grape varieties, gaining the utmost respect from connoisseurs and wine lovers alike.

The grape variety thrives in a multitude of climates and regions, making it a global ambassador of fine red wines which intertwine history, terroir, and craftsmanship.

From famed Bordeaux to the sun-kissed Napa Valley, its signature notes of blackcurrant, plum, and hints of herbaceousness carry a sense of place with each sip.

Scroll down to see 15 top-scoring Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines from DWWA 2025

In this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), the variety proved its versatility and adaptability with stellar examples from around the world.

China claimed one of the 50 Best in Show medals, with a Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Ningxia. The list also joined wines from California in the US, Stellenbosch in South Africa and Margaret River in Western Australia.

New World Cabernet Sauvignon wines impressed at DWWA 2025 with Australia, Chile and China receiving Platinum medals. Gold medal were also awarded to Italy, Romania and Serbia.

To celebrate International Cabernet Sauvignon Day, we highlight 15 top-scoring Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines from DWWA which are well worth looking for. Discover more award-winning wines at awards.decanter.com →

Celebrating International Cabernet Sauvignon Day: 15 to try

Argentina

Etchart, Estate, Cafayate, Salta 2024

Gold, 96 points

Understated and classy with blackcurrant and cherry fruit supported by a gravelly mineral character. One to watch with its youthful acidity and deeply intense structure and tannins. Alcohol 14%

Australia

Xanadu, Reserve, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

We’ve known it since the beginning, back in the 1960s; that was the moment when John Gladstones first suggested that Cabernet Sauvignon and Margaret River might make a fruitful partnership, and when his recommendations were taken up by the region’s pioneering amateurs. This, the fifth appearance for Margaret River Cabernet in our Best in Show selection, confirms it yet again: Cabernet feels very much at home in these rangy, coastal vineyards with their sustaining maritime warmth. Dark opaque black-red, with aromas in which fruits are rendered savoury by notes of pepper, spice, earth, dry leaves and autumn’s plenty, this wine compels from the first approach to the glass. The palate is deep, textured and pure, as the fruit steals out from beneath the camouflage of those other allusions to command the palate. The acidity is relatively soft; it’s the inner freshness of the fruit itself that brings the wine its lift and life. It’s so approachable you might almost underestimate its qualities; the longer you spend with the wine, the more they’ll tell. Alc 14%

Fermoy, Wilyabrup Reserve, Margaret River, Western Australia 2022

Platinum, 97 points

Quintessential and stylish, exuding pure cassis, blackberry and briary fruit which garnishes the elegant framework of structure and tannin and seeps into the mouth-wateringly juicy acidity. A fine mineral undertone ordains the long, visionary finish. Alc 14%

Chile

Miguel Torres, Los Inquietos 02, Maule 2022

Platinum, 97 points

Capacious cherries, plums, blackberries and eucalyptus unlock the potential of this effortlessly stylish Cabernet Sauvignon: The polished elegant structure, silky smooth tannins and pervading acidity emphasize and celebrate the potential of the region in equal measure. Alc 14.5%

China

Dongfang Yuxing Winery, Geruihong Yeguangbei, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China (Mainland) 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

China is a relative newcomer to the world of wine, though in other respects its civilisation pre-dates that of Mediterranean Europe (and the Chinese made mixed alcoholic beverages even earlier than the Georgians wines). Perhaps we shouldn’t be surprised, then, both at the speed at which its wine creators are learning, and the level of their accomplishments. Both were on show this year with not one but two Best in Show wines. This wine from Helan Mountain in Ningxia is a cunning blend which few in Europe would have thought of: Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% of freshening Dornfelder and 6% of Cabernet Gernischt (Carmenère). It works well. The wine is a dark, opaque black-purple with fresh and alluring scents of blackcurrant and wild plum. The palate offers a seductive plunge of fruit and spice, settling on something more akin to dark chocolate but – and this is key – with the authority and detaining discipline only carefully extracted tannins can bring. It’s a revelation. Alc 15.6%

Li’s Estate, Family Reserve, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China (Mainland) 2022

Platinum, 97 points

A tantalising complexity of blackberry fruit compote and succulent prunes garnished with cedar and black pepper spice and hints of green herbs. Rousing and rich with immersive tannins and a lick of warming tar on the finish. Alc 15.5%

France

Château Haut Breton Larigaudière, Le Créateur, Margaux, Bordeaux 2022

Gold, 95 points

Lavish oak overlays a smouldering cassis fruit and graphite intensity with impeccably fine-tuned tannins and vivacious acidity. One for the long haul but delicious now. Alc 13.8%

Israel

Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Golan Heights, Galilee 2021

Platinum, 97 points

Stand-out luscious black fruit aromas with a charming underpinning of floral scent. Flourishing with plush oak modernity and sleek satin tannins, the striking flow of flavour proceeds diligently to the finish line. Plenty of ageing potential. Alc 14.5%

Italy

Mazzei, Tenuta Belguardo Riserva, Maremma Toscana, Tuscany 2021

Gold, 95 points

Ample cassis, black plum compote, brushwood and mint aromas permeate the fine structure and smoky tannins buoyed along by an enticing acidity. A joy to drink. Alc 14%

Romania

Crama Ceptura, Magnus Monte, Dealu Mare, Muntenia & Oltenia 2023

Gold, 95 points

A highly accomplished, classic Cabernet Sauvignon, rippling with ripe blackcurrant, graphite, tar and bell pepper characters. Bold and full with vigorous tannins and a bristling acidity. Alc 14%

Serbia

Despotika, Krunski Dokaz, Oplenac, Šumadija-Great Morava 2017

Gold, 95 points

Tobacco and cigar box oak overlays a lattice of cassis and bramble fruit with an absorbing structure, finely meshed tannins and attractive acid backbone to sustain. Alc 15%

South Africa

Knorhoek, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2021

Best in Show, 97 points

Three of South Africa’s three previous appearances in our Best in Show selection have involved Stellenbosch and a member of the Cabernet family … so no one will be surprised to see that this year’s laureate is, once again, a Stellenbosch Cabernet. Why is the combination so successful? There isn’t the space here to delve into the intricacies of terroir (and in any case we should remember that this 17,500-ha zone constitutes around 18% of South Africa’s planted vineyard total on its own), but in sensual terms the answer seems clear — and this wine exemplifies the appeal perfectly. It’s an opaque dark black-red, with perfectly calibrated oak-aged fruit that conveys an urbane and well-mannered refinement typical of Bordeaux back in France but rare outside it. The fruit qualities are ripe but not overly so, with ample inner freshness; it’s a balanced, digestible wine which cries out for fine cooking and polished glasswear. Technically speaking, there’s enough ripe acidity and deft tannin to carry the fruit with poise and ease yet save it from simplicity, and credit to its creators for getting the wine to this state of approachable maturity in just four short years. Alc 14%

Nederburg, Private Bin Two Centuries, Coastal Region 2021

Gold, 96 points

Beaming with violet, cassis and blueberry power supported by sleek, form-giving tannins with a splash of racy acidity providing energy and lift. Astoundingly long and generous. Alc 14.2%

United States

Kenwood Vineyards, Six Ridges, Alexander Valley, California, United States 2021

Best in Show, 97 points

We’re thrilled to see a wine from Alexander Valley join the nine California red-wine peers that have already featured in our Best in Show selection. This distinctive zone clearly offers Cabernet of significantly different style to Napa: amply fleshed, yes, but with a savoury, mountain wildness to that flesh, and with a different acid emphasis. The blend here, with its seasoning of Petite Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, surely also plays a role in lending this wine its intriguing complexities. It’s black-red in colour, with open, affably fruity aromas lent depth by a dry-forest warmth; on the palate the wine has both breadth and depth as well as a compelling inner sweetness. The acidity is low but soft, while plump tannins with that distinctive savoury nuance bring the wine resolution and balance. Alc 14.5%

L’Ecole Nº 41, Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State 2022

Gold, 95 points

A sophisticated display of blackcurrant, cedar and graphite fragrance, with an array of sleek tannins, a silky texture and delectable spicy lift on the finish. Alc 14.5%

Search all DWWA 2025 results

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Every year, wineries in Chianti Classico release their newest wines, which rather than being one homogeneous vintage are always represented by a range of different vintages.

This is partly dictated by regulations (for example, Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione require more ageing before they can be released) but is also a matter of choice which varies from winery to winery, with some choosing to age their wines for extended periods before releasing them onto the market.

Below you can find all of Michaela Morris' recommended Chianti Classico wines released in 2025.

See also

Chianti Classico annata new releases: The wines to buy in 2025

Chianti Classico Riserva new releases: Top picks in 2025

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: New releases rated

Every year, wineries in Chianti Classico release their newest wines, which rather than being one homogeneous vintage are always represented by a range of different vintages.

This is partly dictated by regulations (for example, Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione require more ageing before they can be released) but is also a matter of choice which varies from winery to winery, with some choosing to age their wines for extended periods before releasing them onto the market.

Below, Michaela Morris talks us through the recently bottled 2023 vintage of annata, the first step on the Chianti Classico ladder, and also discusses the various late releases launched in 2025.

Chianti Classico annata 2023 vintage rating: 3.5 /5

An incessantly rainy spring with high humidity led to widespread peronospora (downy mildew) attacks. Summer was hot and dry with higher-than-average temperatures persisting through to harvest. Quantities are down overall but the first crop of annata wines make for lively and exuberant near-term drinking.

Michaela’s pick of top scoring and notable Chianti Classico wines below

Chianti Classico’s annata category has long been a reliable source for value. Given the diverse challenges of the most recent vintages and the efforts made to overcome them, these latest releases are all the more impressive.

Several estates hit hard by peronospora (downy mildew) such as Tregole, Quercio al Poggio and Castello di Ama ended up making just one Chianti Classico bottling in 2023. Poggerino opted to forgo a Riserva selection this year, to the benefit of the estate’s annata, which is among my top value picks. Other standouts include Castello di Monsanto and Fèlsina.

Revisting 2022 with some late releases, I rediscovered what I appreciated last year – the freshness, crunch and succulence that belie the vintage’s heat. For this, look no further than Tenuta di Carleone and Rocca di Montegrossi.

Without sacrificing the charm of the annata category, these releases also show more gravitas next to 2023 and in general suggest more longevity – between five to seven years. Appealingly textured tannins are dry and powdery rather than soft and velvety, and wines like Le Fonti and Fontodi exemplify the grip and punch of the vintage.

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

By comparison, Le Miccine’s 2022 is on the more lithesome side. It represents the first vintage without Colorino, which is now being grafted to Sangiovese.

‘It’s a north-facing plot which I believe will help us in the future to maintain some nice acidity,’ explains Paula Papini Cook.

Equally concerned about the changing climate, Tenuta di Casanuove has invested in north-facing parcels and is also replanting Canaiolo Nero.

‘It is a great tool because it doesn’t accumulate a lot of sugar and has a gentle structure that blends with Sangiovese,’ explains oenologist Cosimo Casini. The 2022 speaks to the new direction at this estate.

Completing my selection of 90 annata recommendations are half a dozen new releases from 2021, with Le Cinciole and I Fabbri’s Terra di Lamole particularly of note, as well as the excellent 2020 Castell’in Villa.

The 2023 vintage

Presenting a new set of challenges, ‘2023 was as much a year for the skilled as it was for the lucky,’ asserts Angela Fronti at Istine.

With minimal rainfall, another warmer-than-average winter brought inevitable fears of spring frost. The region breathed a collective sigh of relief when cool temperatures in early April delayed bud break. Growers were equally happy when it began to rain, especially given the previous years’ drought.

April, therefore, wasn’t the problem. But when temperatures rose and the rain didn’t stop, May and June were. ‘It was like a tropical climate’, describes Michela Rossi at Quercia al Poggio. With the humidity, peronospora (downy mildew) exploded.

When it comes to fungal disease, oidium rather than peronospora is much more common in Chianti Classico’s typically warm, dry climate. Producers, therefore, are well versed in dealing with the former but less so the latter.

‘Some of us made the mistake of trusting terroir and experience’, says Jurij Fiore. Despite spraying eight times, he lost 50% of his grapes.

Punishing weather

As vineyards didn’t have time to dry out between downpours, leaves remained damp for a month and a half, requiring constant treatments.

‘If you were late by a day, you were in trouble,’ recalls Natascia Rossini at Podere La Cappella – ‘but it was impossible to enter the vineyard’.

Sophie Conti at Tregole decided to skip two treatments because the risk of slipping with the tractor was too high. At Viticcio, Daniele Innocenti performed 19 sprays, compared to just six in 2022.

‘We applied less copper more often to stay under the organic certification limits but still lost grapes.’

Monteraponi’s Michele Briganti believes that organic producers were particularly punished, yet in the same breath he notes, ‘when there is an infection, it is too late – even with conventional treatments. The illness remains asleep so it can do damage later.’

To add insult to injury, the temperamental spring also dished out localised hail. ‘For us, 2023 was not so much a problem with peronospora,’ says Monica Raspi at Pomona. Instead, she estimates hail damage between 30-40%.

Others grappled with both. Gabriele Buondonno saw 80% of one of his vineyards decimated by hail in half an hour. Fifteen days later, another storm took out the rest of it. ‘Then there was peronospora…’, he adds.

July finally brought dry, clement conditions corresponding with the region’s norms. ‘It was hot but not extreme like 2022’, says Maddelena Fucile at Cigliano di Sopra. Both water and heat stress were mostly kept at bay.

However, by the end of August, temperatures reached 40℃. ‘It was as if it hadn’t rained in the spring’, says Cosimo Casini at Tenuta Casenuove, who was among those that observed a slowdown in maturation.

Above-average temperatures persisted through September and harvest, with estates largely picking between 20 September and 10 October. Grapes required careful sorting, ‘but what was healthy was healthy’, Conti asserts.

Quality prevails

For 2023, quantity rather than quality is the issue. The consorzio reports a total production of 200,000hl – 22 to 30% less than the decade’s average.

Individual losses, however, vary enormously. Monte Bernardi was down a whopping 80%, whereas Le Cinciole estimates a more modest shortfall of 10-15%, for example.

Overall, quality prevails in the glass. The wines are clean, lively and exuberant, with a slight Sangiovese tartness that I love. I noticed a glossier candied or confected character, however they are not overripe, stewed or exaggerated in alcohol.

The 2023s are poised to give plenty of pleasure over the next four to five years – an absolutely respectable drinking window for annata.

Michaela’s top scoring and notable Chianti Classico recommendations:

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

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With an ever-increasing number of Gran Selezione labels – either new wines or more significantly Riservas that have been ‘promoted’ – a logical assumption is that Chianti Classico’s middle category might be shrinking.

Yet in terms of total production percentages, the opposite is actually true. In 2018, the Chianti Classico consorzio reported a 64/32 split between annata and Riserva, based on a 10-year average.

In the last five years, the ratio shows a decrease in annata to 57%, while Riserva now represents 38%. Gran Selezione is holding steady at approximately 5%.

Nevertheless, given the high quality of annata wines and the focus on promoting Gran Selezione, Riserva might seem like a tougher sell – but this is not necessarily so.

According to consortium president Giovanni Manetti, the premiumisation of the denomination led by Gran Selezione has benefitted the entire gamut, especially Riserva.

‘With the increase of renown (and consequently, price), new room was created at the mid-point price range that fits Riserva perfectly,’ he asserts.

Scroll down for Michaela’s top-rated Chianti Classico Riserva from the new releases

Holding the middle ground

Laura Bianchi at Castello di Monsanto, confirms that they have not experienced a decreased demand for Riserva since the Gran Selezione category was introduced.

‘The two categories reinforce each other,’ she says, adding, ‘Riserva wines still have a central role because they offer a balance between accessibility and complexity.’

Roberto Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono concurs, saying: ‘The perception of many is that the quality/price rapport of the Riserva triumphs, and its more classic and elegant style is much appreciated.’

The estate’s new 2020 Riserva release embodies both the finesse and value to which he refers.

On the other hand, with respect solely to style, some estates’ Riserva bottlings represent the most muscular, concentrated wines within their range, and may also be a repository for the international grapes that will soon be prohibited from Gran Selezione.

Viticcio’s well-executed 2020 Riserva is a case in point.

Beyond the aforementioned, most of the Riserva I previewed hailed from 2022 and 2021; vintages that are respectively very good and excellent. That said, it is the category in which I found the most variability.

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

Some exhibited more explicit wood without more obvious ageing potential than their annata counterparts; or they simply lacked a compelling identity. Yet the Riserva category also includes some of the region’s most distinctive wines.

Many are from producers that don’t (yet) produce Gran Selezione, namely Cigliano di Sopra, Maurizio Alongi and Val delle Corti.

As for those that do make wine at all three levels, both Istine and Monteraponi’s 2022 Riservas stand shoulder to shoulder quality-wise with their Gran Selezione. And from 2019, Castell’in Villa’s Riserva was among my highest scoring wines across all categories.

Working hard in the vineyard

In particular, the 2021 and 2022 growing seasons were both marked by the warming, drying trend associated with climate change, the latter most intensely. Riserva highlights from these vintages underscore producers’ concerted efforts in the vineyard to mitigate those effects.

For example, the Ormanni estate has moved away from deep tilling and applies kaolin – a natural clay mineral to the vines, which acts as a natural sunscreen. The 2021 Borro del Diavolo is one of the more robust examples, yet it retains intrigue and balance.

Likewise, Castagnoli was spraying kaolin as early as June in 2022. Owner Tim Schefenacker tells me he also avoids trimming the growing tip shoots, tilting the apex leaves over the bunches as further protection from sunburn.

‘Not trimming the apex also helps to retain the malic acids in August’, he explains. While the estate’s 2022 Riserva will be released next year, a cask sample was highly promising.

Monte Bernardi’s Michael Schmelzer follows a similar practice. Although it’s labour intensive, he braids the apex shoots together, tucking them into the canopy. Besides retaining acidity, he suggests that this also preserves aromas. His 2021 Sa’etta is a testament to both.

Finally, from one of the region’s warmer pockets, San Giusto a Rentennano’s 2022 Le Baròncole is impressive. Luca Martini di Cigala’s vineyard strategy is multi-pronged.

Besides redoing terraces to better manage water, and orienting rows for new plantings northwest to southeast to moderate sun exposure, he has successfully trialled the use of hail nets to reduce UV radiation.

‘If you told me 20 years ago that I would use nets to mitigate heat, I would have laughed,’ he says. ‘In 10 years, I think we’ll see more in the region.’

In a changing climate and an evolving region, growing pains are to be expected.

Endeavours to address both appear geared to preserving the territory’s character – and keeping Riserva from being caught in the middle.

Michaela’s top Chianti Classico Riserva released in 2025

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

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For me, keeping up with Gran Selezione means an ever-increasing number of wines to taste: since being introduced just 11 years ago, the category has grown from just 33 labels to 187 estates producing 245 different bottlings at the last count.

The quality and diversity are compelling, and for the the most part, prices have yet to become exaggerated. Premiumisation is to be expected of course, but the future success of the category depends on it not becoming completely out of reach.

There are still a number of producers who abstain for their own reasons, however Gran Selezione is now well represented, from the smallest of entities to the largest of enterprises.

Scroll down to see Michaela’s pick of Gran Selezione new releases

Significantly, one of the region’s most prominent and historic estates, Antinori, presents a grand total of three new Gran Selezione this year.

This brings their total to four, each from a different Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA). Unlike the Badia a Passignano bottling from San Donato in Poggio (130,000 bottles annually), the new labels from Gaiole, San Casciano and Castellina are limited to just 5,000 bottles each.

‘These won’t change the balance sheet at Antinori,’ notes technical director Dora Pacciani. ‘They were made for our passion because we believe in the Chianti Classico region and the UGA project.’

Certainly, the UGA have been a driver in the race to the top. ‘It is also partly a question of communication,’ Monica Raspi at Pomona points out. ‘The consorzio continues to focus on promoting Gran Selezione rather than Riserva.’

Given that her l’Omino Vigna Pomona corresponds to the category’s regulations, she decided to upgrade it from Riserva to Gran Selezione and it is among my top picks from a strong showing of 2021s.

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

Testament to success

The latest Gran Selezione releases are further testament to the vintage’s widespread success. They demonstrate great balance of rich, complex structure with fruit depth, distinctiveness and energy.

Antinori’s new bottlings are truly exciting – I was particularly impressed with the San Sano from Gaiole.

Also from the UGA of Gaiole, Castello di Ama puts out another stellar trio. The estate’s San Lorenzo gets an extra tip of the hat for the value for money it offers.

From Montefioralle, Terreno’s Sillano stands out for its brilliant illustration of grace at Chianti Classico’s highest level.

Equally notable is Isola delle Falcole’s fifth-ever vintage from a vineyard in the wilds of Panzano.

To date, it is the estate’s only Chianti Classico label, and the decision to position it at the top of the pyramid is significant for owner Emanuele Graetz. ‘Gran Selezione is our most powerful weapon to make the world understand that Chianti Classico is a fine wine territory’, he asserts.

Graetz is convinced that the best of these will be equated with the greatest Barolo and Burgundy, ‘both in terms of quality and price’.

Odds and ends

The 2021s are not necessarily austere but a year or two longer in bottle wouldn’t hurt, and most fall within a 10- to 15-year range of ageing potential.

Alongside 2021, a smattering of nascent 2022s were trotted out. However, the apparent direction is for producers to give their Gran Selezione longer in bottle before releasing them.

Among those I did try, Castello di Volpaia’s Coltassala and Castello di Querceto’s La Corte cast the vintage in a flattering light. I was also privy to a stunning sneak peek of Istine’s collection, which includes two new Gran Selezione – one from Lamole and the other from Vagliagli.

Note that these UGA (like Montefioralle) won’t be permitted on the label until 2027.

This year there are also dozens of late releases from 2020 and 2019. From the former, Castello di Monsanto (San Donato in Poggio), I Fabbri (Lamole) and Monteraponi’s Il Bragantino (Radda), along with Rocca di Montegrossi 2019 Vigneto San Marcellino (Gaiole) are cellar-worthy gems.

Across this range of vintages, it was gratifying to perceive a movement towards exalting territory over style, and, above all, a throughline of freshness even in progressively warmer years.

What’s happening in Chianti Classico?

Discussions with wineries about strategies in the cellar revealed a growing trend to include whole berries. Sophie Conti at Tregole began experimenting with this in 2021 to soften her wines, and has found it encourages a more delicate extraction.

‘The result is a crunchier wine with greater brightness of fruit’, she asserts.

Altitude was another recurring theme. Under new ownership, Isole e Olena is currently completing a new terraced vineyard at 500 metres – the maximum elevation of the estate.

Furthermore, the small, lofty enclave of Lamole has become a buzz of activity with producers outside the district securing small plots.

Along with Istine’s inaugual Elle bottling is Fontodi’s newest offering, Pastrolo, and Querciabella’s Gran Selezione now includes fruit from recently acquired holdings there.

Michaela’s top-rated Chianti Classico Gran Seleziones released in 2025:

See all of Michaela’s tasting notes & scores from her Chianti Classico report

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The 2022 vintage from Howell Mountain delivered wines that reflect the AVA’s signature power, structure and high-altitude freshness, yet with a notable degree of elegance and accessibility, despite the challenges of the vintage.

These included the significant heat dome that settled over Napa for a week from Labor Day on – many wines benefited from the higher elevation above the fog line.

There, longer days of sunlight and warmer nights helped vines ripen at an even-keeled pace, and temperatures never reached the soaring levels as that of the valley floor below.

To read all coverage of the Napa Cabernet 2022 vintage use the code NAPA22 for a 20% discount off an annual Premium subscription

Howell Mountain 2022: The top-performing producers

Arkenstone

Impensata

Nickel & Nickel

Ink Grade

Howell Mountain wines in 2022 lean towards a dark, mineral-rich fruit profile, with dominant notes of blackberry, blackcurrant, cassis and spiced plum, often accented by blueberry, redcurrant and cherry pit.

Many wines reveal a distinct mountain herbal quality, with nuances of bay laurel, sagebrush, unsmoked tobacco and wild thyme, as well as earthy elements like loamy soil, graphite and ironstone.

The spice spectrum is broad and engaging, featuring white pepper, cedarwood, allspice, cinnamon and espresso bean, often layered with florals like violets, lavender and pine resin.

Napa Valley Cabernet 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Tannins remain a key defining trait of Howell Mountain wines, with most expressions exhibiting firm, mineral-rich, and structured tannins that contribute to serious ageing potential.

Wines that underwent extended maceration tend to feature mocha-rich, chocolatey tannins, reinforcing Howell Mountain’s signature grip.

Acidity remains bright and energetic, providing lift and ensuring these wines stay fresh despite the warmth of the vintage.

Howell Mountain at a glance

Climate Located above the fog line on the eastern side of the valley, the AVA is warmer and drier than other AVAs. This mountain appellation has more hours of sunshine and very little, if any, maritime influence.

Soils Predominantly volcanic, shallow and infertile. Drainage is high, and soil fertility is quite low.

Elevation 427m-792m

The most structured wines, particularly those from estate sites with deep volcanic soils and extended ageing in new oak, will benefit from long-term cellaring (10- 20+ years). These often showcase a tightly wound, coiled power that will unfurl beautifully over time.

Wines like Ink Grade’s The Prophet’s Water, Ipmensata’s Las Posadas Vineyard red, and Cade Reserve Cabernet stand out for their firm, age-worthy mountain tannins and mineral depth.

Some wines, especially those showcasing more red fruit, higher acidity and gentler tannins, are beautifully balanced for near-term drinking (up to 8 years). Examples include Nickel & Nickel’s Hawk’s Cradle Cabernet and Ink Grade’s Third Circle.

If you prefer opulent, instantly plush Napa Cabernets, Howell Mountain’s profile remains firmly structured, savoury and mineral-driven – more about power and restraint than lush fruit-forwardness.

Whether drinking now or laying down for the long haul, these wines represent some of the most complex, terroir-driven expressions of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Click here for scores and reviews of all 650+ 2022 Napa Cabernets tasted

Cristaldi’s 2022 value picks from Howell Mountain

Ramond Vineyards, District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon

Stressed Vines Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon

Nickel & Nickel Haw’s Cradle Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon

Howell Mountain 2022: The top-scoring Cabernets

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The 2022 vintage in St Helena delivered wines with a signature polish, depth and elegance despite the challenges of the heat dome.

Due to its location in the warmest part of the valley floor, St Helena tends to produce rich, fruit-forward wines.

To read all coverage of the Napa Cabernet 2022 vintage use the code NAPA22 for a 20% discount off an annual Premium subscription

However, this vintage saw remarkable balance, freshness and vibrant energy across many bottlings.

Winemakers who harvested strategically before the extreme heat preserved bright acidity and structure, leading to wines that retain both immediate appeal and ageing potential.

St Helena 2022: The top-performing producers

Colgin Cellars

AXR

Vida Valiente

Bure Family Wines

Corison

Morlet Family Vineyards

Memento Mori

Patria

Annulus Cellars

The fruit profile of St Helena wines in 2022 is defined by a mix of ripe black cherry, blackberry, cassis and spiced plum, often accented by red-fruited lift – raspberry, pomegranate, and cherry pit – bringing vibrancy and freshness.

Some wines showcase blue fruit character, a notable trait for this AVA.

A mineral streak of graphite, crushed rock and saline elements runs through several wines, highlighting the diverse soils of the AVA, from alluvial fans to deep gravel beds.

Notes of sagebrush, bay laurel, and tobacco reflect the influence of nearby mountain slopes and forested areas, contributing to a savoury and structured edge in contrast to the lush fruit core.

St Helena wines in 2022 exhibit well-integrated tannins, ranging from silky, plush and velvety in more approachable bottlings to firm, pixelated and tension-driven in the most structured examples.

While some wines show classic Napa richness and density, others surprise with a taut, refined structure reminiscent of Bordeaux.

St Helena at a glance

Climate Due to greater protection from western hills, St Helena is warmer with less fog or wind incursions from the Bay. This narrowest part of the Napa Valley floor reflects more heat off the hillsides.

Soils South and west borders are more sedimentary, gravel-clay soils; further north and to the east, soils are volcanic in origin.

Elevation 61m-145m

Acidity remains impressively fresh, particularly in wines sourced from Beckstoffer Dr. Crane, Beckstoffer Las Piedras, and high-elevation parcels near Spring Mountain, ensuring balance in this warm vintage.

Wines from Dr. Crane, Las Piedras and sites near Spring Mountain will benefit from five– 20+ years of ageing, thanks to structured tannins, deep fruit complexity and firm acidity.

These include Beckstoffer Dr. Crane (Sam Kaplan, B Cellars), Las Piedras (Vice Versa, Annulus) and select estate Cabernets from Tychson Hill and Bure Family.

Click here for scores and reviews of all 650+ 2022 Napa Cabernets tasted

Many St. Helena wines in 2022 are beautifully polished and ready to enjoy now, with ripe fruit, soft tannins and elegant textures.

Wines from Morlet, Spottswoode and select estate bottlings are balanced, expressive and enjoyable over the next 10 years.

Consumers who prefer high-acid, cool-climate Cabernets, may want to skip over the St Helena wines in 2022 as they lean into fruit-driven depth and richness, rather than a more restrained, structured style.

Cristaldi’s 2022 value picks from St Helena

J Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Corison Cabernet Sauvignon

Salvestrin Dr. Crane Vineyard, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Crocker & Starr Wines, RLC, Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley Cabernet 2022: Full vintage report and top-scoring wines

St Helena 2022: the top-scoring Cabernets

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US winery Tablas Creek said it has achieved a decades-long mission to make single-varietal wines from all 14 traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varieties that feature at Château de Beaucastel, one of the French appellation’s best-known producers.

Muscardin, rarely seen beyond the Rhône and planted in California by Tablas Creek in 2019, is the newest arrival after a 25-case production run in the 2023 vintage.

Tablas Creek, founded in 1989 by Beaucastel’s Perrin family and Robert Haas, of Vineyard Brands, said that makes its new 14-wine collection a first for a US winery.

Located in Paso Robles, the producer has long been a pioneer of Rhône varieties in the US, and regenerative farming.

‘I can feel my dad smiling down at this landmark,’ said Tablas Creek’s second-generation proprietor, Jason Haas. ‘People so often think of the Rhone grape varieties as “just blending grapes”. But tasting them on their own…each one has its own distinctive personality.

‘We are proud to have introduced so many of them to California viticulture, and to see millions of cuttings from those original mother vines in hundreds of vineyards up and down the West Coast.’

A long road

From the start, Tablas Creek has imported and propagated grape varieties grown at Beaucastel. Its first plantings, in 1994, included Mourvèdre, Grenache and Grenache Blanc, Syrah, Counoise and Roussanne.

Next came Picpoul Blanc in 2000, followed by Terret Noir and Clairette Blanche (2010), Picardan (2013), Vaccarèse, Cinsault and Bourboulenc (2016), and, finally, Muscardin in 2019.

Its 14-strong, single-varietal range covers each of these. Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s appellation body cites 13 allowable grape varieties, but it only counts Grenache once.

A debut for Muscardin

Tablas Creek brought over a fresh wave of Beaucastel plant material in 2003, but US officials quarantined varieties for varying lengths of time.

‘Poor Muscardin stayed in quarantine until 2018,’ said Haas, in a winery blog post.

Now in the bottle, he said the variety ‘has lovely floral character, pretty pomegranate fruit, bright acids, an herby complexity like walking on a Provencal hillside, and a little sneaky grip of tannins on the finish.’ 

There will be a small amount of Muscardin 2024, he said, following up on the small-scale 2023-vintage debut.

‘We’re also looking for the opportunity to get a little more Muscardin in the ground, so we’re looking at potential quantities more like 50-100 cases instead of 25.’

Tablas Creek said it would introduce its Muscardin at an industry event, but will also hold some back to see how it evolves.

Look out for an upcoming in depth analysis, alongside reviews of the wines, by our Rhône correspondent Matt Walls.

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Jason Millar, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 13 Highly recommended

South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends: Panel tasting scores

43 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 13

Recommended 23

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit the latest vintage release of their premium Cape red blends containing Pinotage

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends panel tasting

Idiosyncratric and historic

This was a small but illuminating tasting of a category that harks back to the turn of the century.

At that time, South Africa’s winemakers were searching for a uniquely Cape-accented answer to internationally popular Bordeaux and Rhône blends.

Naturally, they turned to Pinotage – a variety created in, and then almost exclusively sold to, the Cape – which provided a way to distinguish South Africa’s red blends from those of other regions.

Pinotage is a tricky grape that has struggled to find its identity as a varietal wine, but our tasting suggested that it does work well in a blend.

‘Many of the wines were improved by having Pinotage,’ Roger Jones observed. ‘Blending may be a good way forward for the variety.’

However, with proportions of Pinotage ranging from 97% to 10% in our tasting, Cape blends vary widely in composition.

The two Outstanding wines reflected this diversity. In ArtiSons’ JJ Hand Made Wines’ Eight Pillars, Pinotage plays a minor role alongside seven other varieties, acting as a welcome seasoning in a rich, layered wine, adding woodsmoke and meaty savour.

In contrast, the Orpheus & The Raven No42 features Pinotage as 51% of the blend, alongside its parent varieties Pinot Noir and Cinsault, in a style that emphasises perfume and delicate fruit.

Among the Highly recommended wines, Pinotage was almost always the dominant variety, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot as popular blending partners.

Most wines were aged in barrel, though Andy Howard highlighted the ‘surprisingly restrained oak’ in the best examples.

Regardless of the specific blend, the category showed a broadly consistent style – marked by generous dark fruit, savoury spice and sweet oak.

Yet the best examples impressed the judges with their finesse and assured winemaking. As Howard concluded: ‘There is a much more refined character to many of these wines than might be expected.’

What to eat with South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends, by Fiona Beckett 

It’s hard to avoid the clichés when it comes to Pinotage, even in a blend. 

The most obvious answer is a braai, as South Africa’s distinctive barbecue cooking is known, and of course that’s spot on, particularly where the more full-bodied styles are concerned. They can absolutely handle the Cape Malay spicing. 

Where else could you take them? Well, India for a start. In fact ArtiSons, the producer of one of our Outstanding wines, specifically recommends north Indian curries, and I’d be tempted to add a raan (spiced roast leg of lamb). 

Other styles of barbecue are another obvious go-to – anything slow braised and cooked in a pit would work. Or, more conventionally, in a casserole – fashionable ox cheek for instance. 

You could also enjoy these wines with meaty pizzas and flatbreads, such as Turkish lamb-stuffed lahmacun. 

More simply, they’ll be spot on with a steak or a Sunday roast, and, it goes without saying, with cheese, including challenging washed rind cheeses and punchy blues. Open a bottle with your next cheeseboard.

South Africa Cape red blends panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs

his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

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If an extra excuse were needed to enjoy a glass of red wine or bar of chocolate then new research extolling the virtues of a diet rich in compounds known as flavonoids may have provided it.

Flavonoids are found in a wide range of food and drink, including tea, berries, apples and oranges.

Tantalisingly, they also turn up in red wine and dark chocolate, although the researchers focused more strongly on other sources in their depiction of a flavonoid ‘five-a-day’ plan.

Writing in Nature Food journal, they said that consuming a diverse mix of flavonoid-rich foods could help to prolong life by mitigating against the development of some health conditions, including cardiovascular and neurological disease.

It’s variety in the diet that appears most beneficial, found the researchers. They tracked more than 120,000 people aged between 40 and 70 years for more than a decade, via the UK BioBank database. 

‘This study is significant as the results indicate that consuming a higher quantity and wider diversity has the potential to lead to a greater reduction in ill health than just a single source,’ said professor Aedín Cassidy, study co-lead and from the School of Biological Sciences at Queen’s University, Belfast.

Study authors wrote: ‘Analysis of flavonoid-rich foods showed those with the lowest diversity consumed mostly tea, and those with the highest diversity consumed relatively more berries, apples, grapes, red wine and oranges.’

Other lifestyle factors might also be important. Those with the highest diversity of flavonoid intake were also more physically active and less likely to be smokers, according to the study.

Professor Cassidy told Decanter via email, ‘We showed that five different portions of flavonoids was associated with the greatest benefits. We know there are lots of sources but red wine is one of them (in moderation, of course).’

However, the main sources include tea, berries, citrus fruit, grapes, plums, red cabbage and cocoa.

Perhaps mindful of public health concerns around alcohol, the study’s authors focused primarily on flavonoid-rich foods in their dietary recommendations.

Last month, the World Health Organisation quoted Alba Gil, policy officer at the Association of European Cancer Leagues, as saying: ‘There is no safe level of alcohol consumption, yet too few people are aware of this.’

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Those first aromas, that first sip. Blueberry fruit, red berries, rose petals and wild mountain herbs. This is Rioja.

When a wine transports you to this wild and beautiful landscape, it bathes you in the warm, soft glow of pure joy and pleasure – drinking becomes an emotional experience.

The genérico category – wines without an age-related classification such as reserva or gran reserva – was easily the largest of this tasting, and it was where we encountered some of the most exciting wines.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the tasting’s best fresh reds

We tasted 274 wines in this category but only 58 have retail pricing below the £15 mark. What was once a classification simply for young wines – with just one or two years of ageing – is now dominated by some of Rioja’s most outstanding cuvées.

Sense of place

Purity and freshness define the top wines in this selection. Their focus? Specific vineyard sites, villages or varieties. These are wines that truly speak of their origins and invite an immediate connection with the vines from which they’re sourced.

El Palacio from Luis Cañas is a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Viura, all from one parcel planted in 1969 with different orientations and surrounded by indigenous scrubland.

The varieties are fermented together in wooden vats and then aged in large 500L barrels – gentle winemaking that simply supports the fruit for the fullest of its expression.

Other excellent wines in this category show off Rioja’s rich tapestry of varieties. The seductively inviting La Quinta Cruz from Miguel Merino is made from Mazuelo (one of only a few single-variety Mazuelos in Rioja) from a 1.2ha vineyard in Monte Calvario de Briones where the soil is poor and covered with stones.

A light touch is shown here, with the wine spending 12 months in a combination of concrete and bocoys of 500L.

Proelio has also produced a stunning single-variety wine, La Canal del Rojo, this time from Garnacha in Badarán. Fermented in concrete (with stems), it spends 15 months in 20hl oak vats to preserve the integrity of both the varietal and vineyard characters.

Varied expressions

The styles of the wines in this selection also highlight the diversity of the category and of Rioja itself. Tom Puyaubert’s Exopto 2023 is a young, vibrant wine, a blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Graciano, that is aged for just six months in concrete, oak vats and used oak.

It’s a joyful explosion of fruit from old vines in Alfaro and Abalos. Beautiful in its simplicity, it’s a wonderful, unadulterated expression of the vineyards.

Carlos Sánchez interprets his vines differently, producing the fine, elegant La Bendecida.

Coming from a tiny 0.2ha vineyard in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, this field blend of Viura, Tempranillo and Garnacha undergoes spontaneous fermentation and is aged on fine lees for 15 months in used barrels.

While hesitant to make comparisons, I could argue that this is the most Burgundian of the wines in this selection. Certainly, it’s a beautiful reflection of Rioja’s historical vineyards.

This selection of genérico wines consists of producers big and small, all committed to expressing Rioja’s varied terroir. The wines’ ageing potential is impressive, although it will be hard to resist drinking them young: approachability and longevity aren’t incompatible.

Quite simply, they are wines that rival the best in the world.

Rioja Report 2025: Best of the fresh reds

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There’ll be a snowy photo of the vines in winter, or merry harvesters throwing their baskets in the air, with a scrawled signature. Occasionally I’m sent a list of wines with all the scores obtained in the previous year, like a wonk’s school report; or I get a request for a date – at one of the wine fairs the owners will soon attend. I glance, note… recycle.

And then out tumbled this: ‘What I Believe: Welcome to the corner of my consciousness.’ I unfolded the brightly coloured A2 sheet. On it, there were 10 points, beginning with ‘Enthusiasm’ (great!) and ending with ‘You are what you think, feel and do’ (true).

The sheet came from Enrico Rivetto, pictured wearing a fool’s cap from which a bunch of grapes dangled. He’s a fourth-generation Barolo producer with vineyards in Serralunga, the DOCG’s most desirable commune, though point eight stressed that ‘Vineyards are not owned but kept’. He makes lovely wines (I mentioned one with my February column): I’m sure he received a shaking of decent scores last year. But point five was ‘Less competition, more comprehension’, so he’s clearly not a scores guy. ‘I learned to unlearn’ sounded promising; ‘One in all, all in one’ needed further investigation. ‘Monoculture: what a bore’: that’s an intriguing tack for a wine-grower to take. ‘Plants speak,’ he believes, with King Charles III. I’m wholly in favour of ‘Imagine to create’. And wine itself? ‘It’s a kind of magic’, he says in point nine. ‘A sweet spell that … “uncorks people” and prepares them to listen’.

This I didn’t recycle; I hooked up with him on Teams instead.

I discovered a committed and passionate dissenter. ‘Wine is not the goal, but a tool to do something,’ he told me. ‘Piedmont is a conservative area, very closed. People revere you because you’re a “Barolo producer”. Many growers just think about making a great wine, making more money. This isn’t good for me. Why do we make wine? We could do other things. Why are we doing this? Many wine-growers don’t know how to answer that question, though it touches the soul.’

His answer? ‘Listen to the best teacher in the world: nature.’ He’s trying to turn his estate not into a million-euro business or a ‘fine-wine destination’ but ‘a place of beauty, a place to produce happiness’. So – after looking at himself squarely in the mirror, and asking ‘Are you really going to tear up Nebbiolo to plant rosehips?’ – he did indeed uproot some of his vine rows in order to create biodiverse hedge corridors, and slowly returned the estate to being a mixed-use farm which also produces spelt and other ancient grains, vegetables, fresh fruit for jams and juices, and medicinal herbs for essential oils. ‘The more I built this new system, the more people came and knocked at my door: a bee-keeper, a truffle farmer. Now we have a home-schooling project: we have 24 children coming here every day. Non-profit, to help parents transfer their skills to their children in a natural environment. To play the guitar, to prune a vine, to do things with energy and enthusiasm.’

It hasn’t all gone to plan, of course. ‘Nature is a perfect system, but in nature there is everything, good and evil, all in balance. It’s difficult to accept this, but everything is part of that one system, from bread yeast to star dust. Including the things we don’t like – perhaps they’re a stimulation to do better. I planted 1,000 trees; 20% died. I learned that nothing grows around a walnut tree. I used amphorae, terracotta; I made mistakes. When you do something new, it’s normal to make mistakes.’

Enrico’s lesson, though, for those who feel that ‘business as usual’ in the wine world is a misguided or troubled pursuit is ‘do something’.

‘It’s not enough just to talk in the bar or online,’ he says. ‘Don’t just protest, get angry, make a noise. You have an internal power – it’s called enthusiasm. You have to be the protagonist of your micro-world. Do something.’

In my glass this month

Just back from a day at Montpellier’s Millésime Bio trade fair, where I caught up with Hildegard Horat, another dissenter, of the admirable La Grange de Quatre Sous in Languedoc. I’ve always admired her wonderful Cabernet-based Lo Molin (we tried the still-young 2016) but had forgotten how good the white Bu N’Daw is: pure Petite Arvine (Hildegard is Swiss). Aged in earthenware, the 2023 is saline, sappy and fresh, its flavours a gentle résumé of celery and angelica – fine organic Languedoc white wine.

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The cost of the ambitious Château de Beaucastel cellar project was €12m (£10m), and an inauguration date of 21 May 2025 has been set.

The intention was to extend the winery in readiness for greater capacity in the coming years, but they have used the opportunity to harness the elements – earth, air, sun and water – to greatly reduce their water and energy needs.

To achieve this, they employed a range of ancient and modern methods.

Indian architect

The project began in September 2018, when they commissioned the architectural consultancy Because Architecture Matters (BAM) to organise a competition to appoint an architect.

A total of 300 firms, representing 32 nationalities, submitted an entry.

‘We knew that the competition would interest a number of architects, but we never thought it would spark the world-wide enthusiasm that we have experienced,’ said Mathias Boutier, founder of BAM.

From a shortlist of 10, the appointed winner was Studio Mumbai, an internationally renowned Indian architect, who worked on the project in association with Studio Méditerranée, an agency from the south of France specialising in renovation and eco-responsible construction.

Sustainability first

Some of the original winery buildings have been preserved, and to these have been added a large new wing, much of which is underground. It benefits from the naturally cool and regular temperatures below ground.

To help cool the new winery, and to increase humidity, four large reservoirs have been dug out that are filled with filtered rainwater harvested from the roof.

The powerful north wind known as the Mistral is directed through a series of openings and channels, passing over the surface of the water, then flowing through the winery, bringing the air temperature down further to 12°C, requiring neither energy nor expenditure.

Collected rainwater – which should eventually deliver 95% of the estate’s water needs – can also be used for cleaning, cooling and watering the gardens.

Electricity is generated by roof-mounted solar panels, and will generate almost all of their annual needs.

Sections of the new winery have been constructed partly from aggregates from the demolished buildings, reducing the need for new materials by reusing old ones.

Outside walls are made in the pisé (rammed earth) construction technique, using clay excavated from the site to build large raw-earth blocks.

This ancient technique has seen a resurgence in interest recently, as using local materials reduces the environmental impact of construction. An additional benefit is that rammed earth walls also help to regulate the inside temperatures of the building.

In addition to the winery, other external buildings, courtyards and gardens have been created for the wellbeing and comfort of staff and guests.

‘Everything works well today,’ said César Perrin, who plans to receive the 2025 harvest at the winery later this year. ‘Nothing will change with the wine. The project is just to be more eco-responsible and to use less energy,’ he said.

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There are few wines that are as closely associated with their region as Chianti is with Tuscany. For 50 years, the iconic green-glass bottle bound with straw, known as a fiasco (‘flask’) graced Italian restaurants and kitchen tables around the world.

But such recognition also brings challenges – Chianti and its unique bottle became associated with basic, rather than quality, wine and Chianti’s reputation suffered as serious producers refused to use the label.

Scroll down for 20 top Chianti picked by Michelle

Fast-forward to today. The region, seemingly untouched by time, covers about 15,500ha of vineyards of quintessential Tuscan landscape – rolling hills and quaint villages – from Pisa to Siena.

And that grape, Sangiovese? Unchanged since the 16th century and still dominating plantings in Tuscany.

For DOCG Chianti, Sangiovese must make up at least 70% of the blend – as distinct from the Chianti Classico DOCG zone (not included in this article), which stands separately from the DOCG sub-zones that surround it (see map, below), and where the minimum Sangiovese requirement is 80%.

Chianti’s seven sub-zones

Of Chianti’s seven sub-zones, Chianti Rùfina and Chianti Colli Senesi are generally considered to produce the best wines. Nestled into the foothills of the Apennines, the former is the smallest of the sub-zones, but also the best known and most consistent.

Its vineyards are at a higher elevation than those of the other sub-zones and are cooled by breezes that blow through a pass in the mountain range. The resulting wines are typically elegant and graceful, with vivid fruit, vibrant acidity and a tannic structure that enables mid-term ageing.

With its warmer climate and predominantly clay soils, Chianti Colli Senesi (the ‘colli’ refers to the fact that the wines come from the hills surrounding the town from which the sub-zone take its name – in this case Siena) tends to produce wines that are fruit-forward and approachable, with softer tannins and a hint of rusticity, and generally little in the way of overt oak influence.

In places it overlaps with the Tuscan DOCGs of Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

The five remaining sub-zones – (roughly north-south: see map, above) Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Montespertoli, Chianti Colline Pisane and Chianti Colli Aretini – typically produce relatively light, straightforward, fruit-driven wines that are best drunk in their youth and are often simply labelled as Chianti DOCG.

Onwards and upwards

Although the landscape and grape have remained constant, the quality and reputation of Chianti have been on an upward trajectory. Both knowledge and research have benefited the wines’ style and quality, and today Chianti represents some of the best value of all Italian reds, with UK supermarket prices generally held at the £6.50-£9 level.

Producers in the region (there are about 3,000 of them) have planted clones of Sangiovese that better highlight the red cherry fruit and juicy acidity for which the grape is known.

Wineries have the flexibility either to choose grapes from the greater area and use ‘Chianti DOCG’ on the label, or to select grapes from a single one of seven sub-regions, enabling them to make a more focused, terroir-driven wine and specify the sub-zone on the label.

Basic Chianti tends to be simple and fruity, whereas Chianti Governo – a historical winemaking tradition that uses a small portion of dried grapes – is similar but with a bit more body and alcohol. Both are made to be drunk early.

Wines labelled either Chianti Superiore or Chianti Riserva tend to be slightly more expensive and are matured in wood before bottling, adding that extra spicy nuance.

These wines are either ready to drink on release or can age, and can offer the best quality-to-value ratio, typically priced at a still-affordable level of about £9-£13.

For those willing to spend a little more, the most ageworthy and highest- scoring wines come from the sub-regions, yet compared to Chianti’s more famous (Classico) neighbours, they still offer incredible value.

With plenty to choose from, you can be assured that quality and consistency are guaranteed at every price point.

Michelle’s 20 top great value Chianti:

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It is in just such a situation that scoring can be helpful. Wine adventurers, who come across unfamiliar sparkling wines priced at the same level as Champagne, may be given the reassurance they need to buy after seeing a high score given by a taster or outlet they hold in high regard.

There’s no doubt that many consumers find wine scores useful – hence our use of them in Decanter. But some judges and critics score reluctantly, worrying that it reduces a complex liquid to a lowest common denominator, and keen to draw attention instead (or at least as well) to their more nuanced tasting notes. Read our deep dive into the subject, and then please do email in to share your view.

See what’s inside Decanter magazine April 2025

In focus

• Return of the native Discover Italy’s lesser-known and revived local grape varieties, urges Raffaele Mosca
• Chianti DOCG: 20 top picks Explore Chianti beyond ‘Classico’, with Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW
• 30 vintages of an under-the-radar SuperTuscan Michaela Morris talks to Lamberto Frescobaldi about the birth and ongoing evolution of Luce
• Prosecco Superiore: One man’s mission Jason Millar meets Diego Tomasi, director of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene consorzio
• Piedmont’s shifting focus White grapes are gaining popularity in northern Italy, writes David Way
• The art of the score What do wine critics really think about scoring wine, asks Cassandra Charlick
• Regional profile: A different world Tom Hewson visits Champagne’s southern outpost, the Côte des Bar
• South Africa’s next generation Introducing six exciting young winemakers, chosen by Malu Lambert

Spirits

• Distilled Spirits news
• Coming up rosas Millie Milliken charts the rise of rosa tequila

Food & travel

• What to pair with Mexican cuisine Fiona Beckett’s tips on matching wine to Mexican food’s lively flavours
• Travel: Italian winery restaurants Six fine-dining destinations among the vines, by Alessandra Piubello
• Travel: Where to drink wine in Verona Local wine folk tell Demet Güzey about eight great destinations

Learning

• Books etc Sophie Thorpe recommends three tales of people ‘living the dream’
• Wine wisdom Expert tips, and ‘The ethical drinker’ on bees and vines

Buying guide

• Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings
• Panel tasting: Bardolino Rosso A tasting of 54 wines reveals food-friendly options, to lightly chill
• Panel tasting: Vermentino 2023: Tuscany vs Sardinia Which region is the best source of great Vermentino?
• Expert’s choice: Asti Filippo Bartolotta singles out 18 top drops from a region ripe for rediscovery
• Weekday wines Decanter’s in-house tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink and priced at £30 or less
• Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress
• DWWA 2024 highlights Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol’s ‘elegant and diverse’ medal-winning wines

Collecting & investing

• Marketwatch Auction news and new releases; plus, is the market stabilising?

Regulars

• Writing this month Meet four of the authors from this month’s Decanter
• Uncorked News, inspiration & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column
• Katherine Cole’s column
• Guest column Tiziano Gaia wonders what the future holds for Barolo
• The Last Drop Celebrity bottles, crisps and wine, and more…

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

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Andy Howard MW, Melania Battiston and Victoria Daskal tasted 203 wines, with 13 Outstanding and 125 Highly Recommended

Cru Beaujolais 2022: Panel tasting scores

203 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 13

Highly recommended 125

Recommended 60

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2022 vintage reds from any of the 10 Beaujolais cru sub-regions (Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, St-Amour)

The judges were delighted by the quality on show from the highly regarded 2022 vintage.

Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie and Morgon led the way with four, three and two Outstanding wines respectively, but the judges were thrilled to see the strength in some of the lesser-known crus, with Chiroubles (the highest in altitude), St-Amour (most northerly alongside Juliénas) and Régnié (most recent AP) all featuring at least one wine at 95 points.

While this success won’t come as a surprise to fans of cru Beaujolais, the results might surprise those who are less familiar with what’s happening in the region today.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the top-scoring wines from our Cru Beaujolais 2022 tasting

The brilliance of Beaujolais

Beaujolais was long renowned for light, early-drinking, ‘pear-drop and bubble-gum’ wines that were easy to drink but rarely memorable.

Today, the region is the source of some of France’s most terroir-focused wines, often delivering fine-wine quality at great price points.

Sommelier Melania Battiston said: ‘From an on-trade perspective, in many restaurants, we are still faced with the easy-drinking, cheerful representations of Beaujolais, [but] I would happily buy and list most of the bottles that were rated Recommended or above here.’

Victoria Daskal was also enthusiastic: ‘The tasting revealed a remarkable spectrum of possibilities within each village – a testament to the interplay of soils, microclimates, vineyard ages and producer styles.’

Each taster identified different crus as personal favourites. For Daskal, ‘Fleurie defied its delicate, floral reputation, spanning everything from light, invigorating 12% alcohols to dense, ripe 15.5% expressions’.

I was a big fan of Moulin-à-Vent, a powerhouse within the Beaujolais crus, with many wines already at the level of fine Burgundy from the Côte d’Or, while Battiston was impressed by Régnié: ‘For me, the most refined and elegant.’

Daskal also championed Morgon, which she felt offered ‘exceptional fruit concentration, precision and charm, plus a compelling mix of drinkability, ageworthiness and value’.

Overall, she said: ‘The classic crus showed a variety of styles, but the lesser-known crus certainly stood out, too. Régnié, Chénas and Chiroubles impressed, with distinct personalities rooted in their terroirs, showcasing mineral-driven profiles, striking freshness and consistently high quality.’

Click here to see more results from the Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting

What to eat with Cru Beaujolais wines, by Fiona Beckett

Most people still see Beaujolais as a picnic wine, suitable only for pairing with charcuterie and mild soft cheeses such as brie.

True, it goes well with both, especially patés and terrines, but serious bottles such as Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent offer far more than that, the best rivalling red Burgundy for power, elegance and sophistication.

Think, then, of pairing them, particularly older vintages, with a fine roast chicken, feathered game such as duck, partridge or pheasant, or (remember this for later in the year) Christmas turkey, especially the Boxing Day leftovers.

They’re a natural with bistro classics such as kidneys with mustard, oeufs en meurette or hachis parmentier – the region is one of the last bastions of old-school French cooking.

Less obviously, it’s also good with Chinese food – if you want a red pairing, Beaujolais is as good as any – and (albeit lighter styles such as Fleurie) with sushi.

And don’t forget that delicious dessert of strawberries with, or rather in, Beaujolais. Roll on summer.

Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. He runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Melania Battiston is wine director at Cornus restaurant in London, and formerly assistant food & beverage manager for Aman Resorts. A CMS Advanced Sommelier, she runs her own consultancy and coaching company for hospitality and brands, Mel CnC

Victoria Daskal is a wine writer, presenter, consultant and WSET educator. In 2008, she completed the OIV MSc in International Wine Management, and among others has since worked for Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and as managing editor of The World of Fine Wine

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Italy might be renowned for its ancient varieties, but two noble French interlopers, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, now contribute to some of Italy’s most prestigious wines, telling a fascinating story of adaptation and evolving identity.

The pair, commonly referred to simply as ‘Cabernet’ in blends, has become a hot topic in Italian wine circles.

Recent decades have shown clear shifts in preference – Cabernet Sauvignon dominated the 2000s, while Cabernet Franc rose to prominence in the 2010s with consumers favouring its vibrancy, acidity, and floral characteristics.

Scroll down for eight examples of exceptional Italian Cabernet

French nobility on Italian soil

But how did these French varieties first make their way to Italy? The Cabernet journey began in 1820, when Count Manfredo di Sambuy brought them from Bordeaux to his Piedmont estate, alongside Sauvignon Blanc.

This collection was fitting – a family affair of sorts – given Cabernet Sauvignon is the progeny of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.

By 1877, the Cabernet spread moved to Italy’s north with Veneto and Trentino (then under Austro-Hungarian rule), before later heading south.

One notable exception is Sicily’s early adoption in 1855, when Baron Felice Spitaleri created ‘Castello Sollicchiata,’ Italy’s first Bordeaux-style blend which earned international acclaim in 19th century competitions.

The volcanic soils, it turned out, proved interesting for both Cabernet varieties.

Sassicaia and the Super Tuscan revolution

The true catalyst for change came in the 1940s, when Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta and his wife Clarice inherited the Tenuta San Guido property on Tuscany’s stony Bolgheri coastline.

Drawing inspiration from great Bordeaux wines, he sought to create a wine of superior quality to the local Sangiovese.

Studying in Bordeaux at the likes of Château Mouton Rothschild, he noted similarities between Bolgheri’s stony soils and Bordeaux’s Graves region. On his return, he planted both Cabernet varieties in a vineyard he named ‘Sassicaia’, meaning ‘area of many stones’.

Initially labelled as Vino da Tavola, Sassicaia made its commercial debut in 1968. It later found itself part of the broader Super Tuscan revolution of the 1970s and 1980s, along with notable wines such as Ornellaia, Tignanello and Solaia, which were exploring barrique ageing and unconventional Cabernet blends to critical acclaim.

Winemakers outside of Tuscany began to take note and started planting Cabernet widely across Italy.

As Alex Ferrigato of Alto Adige winery Colterenzio explains: ‘In the 1980s, if you wanted to prove you could produce a great wine, you had to do it with this variety.’

Family resemblance and distinctive characters

Today, Cabernet Sauvignon (14,200 hectares) and Cabernet Franc (6,300 hectares) make up 3% of Italy’s 720,00 hectares under vine (according to Luigi Bavaresco, professor of viticulture at Catholic University of the Sacred Heart in Piacenza, and scientific secretary of the OIV expert group on genetic resources and vine selection).

In this sense it very much holds minority status compared to popular Italian varieties such as Sangiovese, which commands plantings of 72,000 hectares.

Cabernet Sauvignon has established strongholds in Tuscany (particularly Bolgheri), Alto Adige, Veneto, and increasingly in warmer sites across Sicily and Sardinia.

Meanwhile, Cabernet Franc thrives in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, northern Alpine areas, Veneto, and has formed a particularly harmonious relationship with Tuscany, where plantings have doubled in a decade (OIV), including a 50% increase in Bolgheri (Bolgheri Consorzio).

These genetic relatives share pronounced tannins, good natural acidity and excellent ageing potential, but their Italian expressions have diverged significantly, each finding unique voices in different regions.

Cabernet Sauvignon has historically been considered ‘without flaws’, capable of ripening optimally in diverse environments, although it can struggle with ripeness on cool soils at altitude.

Its thick skins provide botrytis resistance and drought tolerance, while its later ripening (often 1-2 weeks after Cabernet Franc) extends the harvest window, protecting it from early frosts.

In Bolgheri, where both varieties excel, Cinzia Merli, owner and oenologist at Le Macchiole, finds Franc has ‘a more elegant body, a tannic texture of greater character, and a broader aromatic spectrum’ than its offspring.

The variety’s adaptability allows it to reveal different facets depending on soil type, making it particularly site-expressive.

‘On calcareous soils, Cabernet Franc tends to express more floral aromas – violet, rose – fresh red fruits and spicy notes’, adds Elena Pozzolini, oenologist at Tenuta Sette Cieli.

‘Cabernet Sauvignon develops darker aromas – blackcurrant, graphite – sometimes accentuating vegetal notes on clay – green bell pepper, tomato leaf’.

Forging an Italian identity

Italy’s approach to the Cabernet varieties has evolved beyond French emulation to emphasise terroir, and, today, wineries are investing in Cabernet Sauvignon once more for their flagship bottlings.

French oenologist Pierre Seillan at Chianti Classico’s Tenuta di Arceno, with his continent-spanning career producing exemplary Bordeaux-style wines, defines himself as a ‘terroirist’, emphasising the use of each parcel’s geomorphological characteristics.

This sums up the site-specific philosophy which now defines Italy’s Cabernet landscape, which emphasises regional character over varietal orthodoxy.

We now see a broad spectrum emerging.

This ranges from classic Bordeaux blends such as Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia, Antinori’s Guado al Tasso, Castello del Terriccio’s Lupicaia, and San Leonardo, to unique varietal expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon such as Tenuta Liliana’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Fèlsina’s Maestro Raro and Pasqua’s Fear No Dark, or Cabernet Franc – Tenuta di Arceno’s Arcanum, and Ferlat’s Sessanta.

This localised approach is clear in Alto Adige, where Ferrigato highlights the character of Colterenzio’s Lafóa Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on poor gravel and volcanic subsoil, which yields what he describes as ‘both Alpine and Mediterranean characteristics’.

Climate Change and Future Trends

Climate shifts are reshaping Italy’s Cabernet landscape. Paolo Bomben, oenologist at the research centre at Vivai Rauscedo (VCR), one of the world’s leading vine nurseries, located between Conegliano and Udine, explains: ‘Cabernet Sauvignon is increasingly being replaced in warmer regions by Cabernet Franc, which ripens earlier.’

The nursery now focuses on identifying clones suited to evolving climate conditions as southern Italian regions become less suitable for Cabernet Sauvignon.

Innovation proves essential for Cabernet Sauvignon’s future. Pasqua’s Fear No Dark demonstrates this brilliantly by planting vines in a shady vineyard, embracing the longer ripening period while protecting the grapes from excessive heat.

For Cabernet Franc – a variety that thrives with significant diurnal shifts, as seen in Bolgheri – Pozzolini explains that higher temperature excursion helps to preserve acidity while ripening tannins, suggesting Bolgheri’s strong affinity with this variety will endure.

Advancement continues with the creation of resistant ‘PIWI’ varieties such as VCR’s Cabernet Volos and Cabernet Eidos. Bomben explains that both offer ‘remarkable aromatic intensity’, with Volos being bold, fruity and spicy while Eidos leans more floral.

These varieties’ ‘polyphenolic intensity’ often surpasses conventional counterparts, combining disease resistance with exceptional quality.

So what’s holding these PIWI varieties back? Largely, industry reception, with Bomben noting that, ‘Tuscany stands out negatively in this regard’, refusing authorisation for PIWI varieties despite 10 other Italian regions already embracing this change.

Given France and Germany have permitted PIWI varieties in quality wine classifications, Italian prejudices may prove short-lived.

After 150 years on Italian soil, the Cabernets have forged exciting identities across the country; no longer French imports, they are today embraced as citizens offering a distinctive voice to Italy’s viticultural landscape.

Eight exceptional Italian Cabernets

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Did you know there is a website where you can compare the average prices of vineyard land across France?

Here are some examples, per hectare of vines in 2023:

Touraine, Loire: €7,000 (£5,880)

Côtes du Rhône: €23,000 (£19,315)

Gigondas, Rhône: €215,000 (£180,530)

Côte d’Or, Burgundy: €983,800 (£826,080)

Pomerol, Bordeaux: €2,000,000 (£1,679,420)

The website is published by a French government agency called SAFER, whose job it is to regulate land prices in rural areas. Naturally some appellations are more desirable, and therefore expensive, than others.

Scroll down for Domaine Mayard wines tasted and rated

How about a hectare in Châteauneuf-du-Pape? That’ll be €510,000 (£428,255) please.

So if you’re a young winemaker wanting to start out in Châteauneuf, a 10ha vineyard is going to set you back on average €5.1m (£4.3m). That’s before you’ve paid for the winery and equipment. And found somewhere to live.

These land prices impact the wines we drink. It’s no coincidence that one of the most experimental and dynamic appellations in the Rhône Valley is Ventoux – where the price of land is among the lowest (€23,000 / £19,315).

After all, what must it feel like, as a young vigneron in Châteauneuf, to have the weight of millions of euros of debt around your shoulders? Ensuring you find a market for your wines, and quickly, is critical. The temptation is to stick to the beaten path.

So brand new estates in appellations with high land prices are rare. And new ones producing an original style are rarer still. That’s why Domaine Mayard is so exciting.

One becomes two

If the name sounds familiar, that’s because an estate called Vignobles Mayard was established in Châteauneuf in 1889 by Gratien Mayard.

More recently, fourth-generation winegrower Maurice Mayard passed the family estate to his three children, Didier Mayard, Béatrice Mayard and Françoise Roumieux.

Following a disagreement in 2021, the estate was split in two.

Françoise’s children Nicolas and Coline took control of one of the new structures, christened Clos du Calvaire. Didier’s children Hugo and Arthur now look after the other, named Domaine Mayard.

Clos du Calvaire kept the winery, stock and equipment, but the vineyards were divided equally. Domaine Mayard now owns 10ha of Châteauneuf, 5ha of Côtes du Rhône and 3ha of Lirac.

‘It was an opportunity to change a lot of things,’ says Arthur Mayard.

Clean slate

A conversation with Arthur, 32, is a useful way of getting up to speed with current thinking in Rhône viticulture.

For a region that’s often concerned about climate change, his response is unusually relaxed. ‘It’s not a big thing for me,’ he says, ‘weather is always changing. Our job is to adapt.’

Increasing the amount of organic matter in the soil, and therefore its capacity to store water, is his starting point. One way to achieve this is planting cover crops in between rows.

Another is by adding manure and fresh wood chips. He’s moving away from ploughing to avoid drying out his soils too; the eventual aim is to farm regeneratively.

He’s started planting trees in his vineyards, aiming for 60 per hectare. This has multiple benefits for his vines. It provides shade in summer, produces wood for chipping, and the trees he’s selected (cherry, peach, almond and apricot) attract insects and birds.

The trees are good for humans too, producing fruit to eat. These plots feel more like allotments than vineyards.

‘Vines are born to be in good health. It’s the way we manage them that brings disease,’ says Arthur. ‘My goal is to create perfect conditions for the vines to thrive.’

Old cellar, new style

When I visited Arthur and Hugo they were putting the finishing touches to a new cellar that they’ve installed in a 17th century building in the middle of Châteaneuf-du-Pape village. It’s a bit cramped, but working between these ancient walls inspires them.

Arthur says his way of working has changed since establishing his own estate. He harvests earlier, and extraction is much more gentle.

This is partly because their market has changed; Vignobles Mayard used to export 65% of its wines, mostly to anglophone countries, whereas Domaine Mayard sells 85% of its wine within France.

Arthur believes that French wine lovers prefer a more savoury expression with less alcohol, so this is the domaine’s direction of travel.

‘The most important thing is to see the wine drunk to the bottom of the bottle,’ he says, and that the wines are accessible even when young.

The result is a style all of its own. Relatively pale in the glass, with an array of floral and herbal scents. The wines have body without reliance on intense extraction; they place drinkability over power, and feel more nourishing than intoxicating.

Appellations such as Châteauneuf can become victims of their own success, with high land prices preventing new talent and original styles from emerging.

If classic wine styles don’t evolve, however, they can ossify. Thankfully, Arthur and Hugo Mayard aren’t afraid to tread their own path.

And they’re creating exactly the kind of wines that more and more of us want to drink.

Domaine Mayard facts

First vintage: 2021

Farming: Certified organic

Lieux-dits: Le Grand Coulet, Les Serres, La Crau Est, Le Pointu

Soils: Principally galets roulés and sand

Destemming: Partial, vintage dependent

Maturation: 12 months in old foudres then six months in concrete

Range

Red Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 10% Mourvèdre

White Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 34% Clairette, 33% Grenache Blanc, 33% Bourboulenc

Red Côtes du Rhône: 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre

Domaine Mayard wines tasted and rated:

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With so many bottles lining the shelves it can be hard to know where to begin in seeking out great-value red wine.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 20 great-value red wines

Our selection comprises celebrated names, powerhouse regions and notable grape varieties as well as a few off-the-beaten-path picks, all offering a fantastic price-quality ratio.

The 20 wines below have been reviewed and rated by the Decanter team and are priced at £20 or less.

Mendoza Malbec fans are in for a treat here with Doña Paula’s elegant high-altitude 2022 from Luján de Cuyo and Marks & Spencer’s food-friendly 2023 Uco Valley offering made by Decanter’s Hall of Fame 2024 winner, Susana Balbo.

Or how about Wirra Wira’s Church Block 2021 from Australia’s McLaren Vale: a Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot blend oozing with black fruit and chocolate.

Highlights from France include both Northern and Southern Rhône offerings, in the respective forms of M Chapoutier’s silky smooth Crozes-Hermitage 2022 and Boutinot’s Soleil Pierres Cairanne of the same vintage, showing beautiful typicity of style. You could also opt for a refreshing and zesty Beaujolais 2023 from Louis Jadot.

A great choice from Spain comes in the form of a new-wave Rioja – Marks & Spencer’s Viñedos en Laguardia 2023 – boasting perfumed cherry spice.

Italian favourites have also made the list. Morrisons caters for Amarone enthusiasts with its velvety The Best 2020 and Castellore’s Specially Selected Chianti Riserva 2021 impresses with its elegant fruit and smoky spice notes.

Waitrose’s Loved & Found range strikes again for those wanting to try something less mainstream – its Campania Piedirosso 2023 from Orion Wines shows an expressive red fruit and herb character alongside a hint of white pepper and vanilla.

Great-value red wine: 20 to try

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South Australia has become a powerhouse for Rhône-style reds, with its old-vine Grenache, bold Shiraz and GSM blends capturing global acclaim. The region’s sun-drenched vineyards and diverse terroirs, from Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale to Clare Valley, offer ideal conditions for these varieties, resulting in wines that offer both depth and elegance.

While classic Rhône reds are known for their earthy complexity and restrained fruit, South Australia’s interpretations embrace ripe fruit, vibrant aromatics and silky textures. This combination of elegance and power has earned recognition at the Decanter World Wine Awards, with three wines at the 2024 competition featured in the Best in Show top 50 global selection.

Scroll down to discover DWWA 2024 awarded Rhône-style reds from South Australia

Pair these wines with hearty dishes like slow-cooked lamb, barbecued meats or mushroom risotto to highlight their rich fruit profiles and savoury complexity.

For Grenache’s lighter style, opt for Mediterranean-inspired dishes such as grilled vegetables or charcuterie. With their balance and approachability, South Australia’s Rhône-style reds continue to captivate wine lovers globally.

Whether you’re exploring refined Grenache or bold Shiraz, the award-winning wines below are a must-try for fans of expressive, full-bodied reds.

Discover even more to seek out at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Chaffey Bros, Evangeline Syrah, Eden Valley 2021

Best in Show, 97 points

chaffeybros.com

Prodigiously aromatic, black cherry and plum, then plunging blackberry and blackcurrant dominate the palate with oak providing extra upholstery. A haunting citrus-and-lavender perfume helps to structure the wine alongside ample, gentle tannins and curranty acidity. Stylish, with emphatic, show-stopping character. Alcohol 14.5%

Penny’s Hill, Yeenunga Grenache, McLaren Vale 2023

Best in Show, 97 points

pennyshill.com.au

Fundamentally, an exercise in grace and charm, despite its dark hue, drawing on 51-year-old bush vine fruit. Beguiling, liqueur-like cherry and strawberry on the nose, then more of those sweet, seductive fruits coax and enchant on the palate. Purring, deep-bass tannins bring a latent authority and food-friendliness, while conveying the wine’s grandeur. Alc 14%

Shingleback, Red Knot Classified GSM, McLaren Vale 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

shingleback.com.au

Grenache with 21% Shiraz and 9% Mataro (Mourvedre). A dark purple-red colour, the fragrant sweetness of its tender aromatic profile is distinctively regional. Ample weight, and the other two varieties divert the sweetness out towards something a little sterner, with a different spectrum of primary fruit. Soft tannins and rounded, sunbeam acidity. Alc 13.9%

Barossa

Calabria, Saint Petri Shiraz-Carignan 2022

Platinum, 97 points

calabriawines.com.au

Crashing waves of cranberry, pomegranate and violet perfume topped with a savoury, herbaceous energy. Finely woven tannins, bracing acidity and a luxurious grip of vanilla and cocoa spice on a smooth finale. Superb. Alc 14.4%

Grant Burge, The Holy Trinity Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre 2022

Silver, 92 points

£22.50 Whitebridge Wines

A savoury and restrained nose has elegant floral notes, then a core of plush dark fruit, flinty stone and red berry on the palate. Alc 14.5%

Henschke, Henry’s Seven 2022

Silver, 92 points

£30.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent, Field & Fawcett, Noble Grape, NY Wines, Philglas & Swiggot, Taurus Wines, The Wine Reserve, The Wine Yard

Red and black fruits mingle with melted liquorice and some mountain herbs on the nose, enhanced by a creamy richness on the palate. Alc 14.5%

Sons of Eden, Kennedy Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre 2022

Silver, 92 points

£24.50-£24.99 EW Wines, Majestic

Plush nose of mulberry and dried tobacco, followed on the palate by layered coconut, fruit, spice and silky tannins. Alc 14.5%

Cat Amongst the Pigeons, Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro 2022

Silver, 91 points

catamongstthepigeonswine.com.au

Vibrant nose with red and black fruit pastille aromatics, then a palate of glossy oak, cedar and spiced vanilla notes. Alc 14.5%

Clare Valley

Kilikanoon, Attunga 1865 Shiraz 2019

Gold, 95 points

£130 Via UK agent Mentzendorff

Ambitious and unrelenting, with masses of ripe dark berry fruit, liquorice and coffee, a slurry of savoury herbs and eucalyptus, all enlivened by mouthwatering acidity. Alc 14.5%

Eden Valley

Fourth Wave Wine, Woods Crampton Shiraz 2022

Gold, 96 points

fourthwavewine.com.au

A thrilling merger of plums, chocolate and liquorice underpinned by a savoury black olive note. Fleshy and gentle with glossy tannins and a long, smooth finish. Alc 14%

McLaren Vale

Beresford, Barrel Select GSM 2022

Gold, 95 points

beresfordestate.com.au

A flourish of red and blue fruits backed by fresh violet notes, with layers of creamy tannins and a wonderfully ripe, succulent texture. Long and lustrous. Alc 13.9%

Chapel Hill, The Parson Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre 2022

Value Gold, 95 points

chapelhillwine.com.au

Bustling with spicy pink peppercorns and scrumptious rhubarb, with some floral nuance lapping at the fine sandy tannins and gripping freshness. Vivacious, long and frivolous. Alc 14.5%

Penny’s Hill, Single Vineyard Grenache 2023

Gold, 95 points

pennyshill.com.au

Beaming with red cherries and zingy Turkish delight, and an undertow of fresh mint and fragrant flowers. Creamy and mellow with a lush milk chocolate finish. Alc 14%

Dandelion Vineyards, Moonrise Kingdom 2022

Silver, 92 points

dandelionvineyards.com.au

Shiraz, Grenache and Petite Sirah from a single biodynamically run vineyard. Masses of blue and black fruits, leather, meat broth and touches of violet and rhubarb, with crisp acidity. Alc 14.5%

Gemtree, Cinnabar Organic Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro 2022

Silver, 91 points

gemtreewines.com

Vibrant, dark summer fruit and eucalyptus nose, then a palate of savoury, herbaceous damson with spice and supple tannins. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

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Mourinho famously described himself as ‘The Special One’ after he was appointed Chelsea manager in 2004.

The Portuguese coach had just led Porto to the Champions League title, and he vowed to bring success to his new club.

Mourinho lived up to his self-styled nickname, as the Blues won back-to-back Premier League titles. The moniker stuck, so it seemed an obvious choice when he decided to launch a wine brand.

‘The Special One’ is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Sousão and is selling for €144 per bottle.

Mourinho said: ‘As someone who values precision, quality and excellence in every endeavour, I am proud to present my very own wine, “The Special One”.

‘Handpicked from one of my favourite regions in Portugal, this wine reflects the spirit of my homeland and my relentless desire to enjoy every moment in life.’

Rival manager Sir Alex Ferguson was scathing of Mourinho’s taste in wine after they had a post-match drink in 2004. ‘He was certainly full of it, calling me boss and big man,’ said Ferguson. ‘But it would help if his greetings were accompanied by a decent glass of wine. What he gave me was paint-stripper.’

Mourinho admitted he is not ‘one of the bottle’, but he brought a high-end Barca-Velha to their next meeting.

Chelsea eventually sacked Mourinho following a poor run of results, but he went on to enjoy great success at Inter Milan and Real Madrid.

He then won another Premier League title during a second stint at Chelsea, but his reputation has since been dented after disappointing spells at Manchester United, Tottenham Hotspur and Roma.

Mourinho is now at Fenerbahçe in Turkey, but he still refers to himself as ‘The Special One’, and he believes his wine is special too. ‘Whether you’re celebrating a victory or spending time with people you care about, this wine is meant to be shared with someone truly special,’ he said.

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The award-winning online retailer will launch its 2021 Barolo en primeur campaign tomorrow (Tuesday 14 January).

It will feature 61 wines from 27 producers, covering seven communes: La Morra, Barolo, Verduno, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba and Novello.

The selection will be 50% larger than last year’s 2020 Barolo en primeur campaign. New producers include Ettore Germano, E Pira & Figli, Gian Luca Colombo, Livia Fontana, Poderi Oddero and Mauro Veglio.

Buyer Victoria Mason MW said: ‘This is a vintage Barolo lovers will want to fill their cellars with, but I also strongly believe it is the perfect opportunity for curious fine wine drinkers to dip their toe in purchasing en primeur and starting their own wine cellars.’

Most wines will be offered in cases of six. If allocations are limited, collectors will be offered cases of three or single bottles.

The offer is organised by commune. There are also three mixed cases, including an Explore the Communes of Barolo case. Prices will start from £105 for a six-bottle case of Barolo del Comune di La Morra, Ciabot Berton 2021.

Mason added: ‘The combination of accessible pricing – 25 wines in the selection come in at £200 per six in bond or under – and amazing ageing potential makes buying 2021 Barolo in bond a savvy decision, especially in the context of other more traditional fine wine regions.’

The Wine Society was named Outstanding Wine Retailer of the Year at the last Decanter Retailer Awards. It scooped five more accolades, including UK Wine Buying Team of the Year, making The Wine Society the big winner on the night.

Mason joined the retailer’s buying team last year after previously working for Waitrose and Bordeaux Index.

‘I am so excited about this vintage,’ she said. ‘The wines are exhilarating, intentional and precise. They show great complexity, length, and structure – which nudge us towards a comparison with the 2016s and the 2019s, but the 2021s show an extra dimension, or layer, of fruit; a ripe, rich generosity which is supported by powerful yet wonderfully handled tannins and balanced by vibrant freshness.’

The en primeur offer will run until the end of the month, closing on 31 January.

Mason added that the wines have ‘real identity, transmitting the distinctive personalities of their respective sites clearly and unhesitatingly’.

‘This distinctiveness of site shines through the 2021s with such absolute clarity that I am more convinced than ever of the value of getting to know the minutiae of the different vineyards of Barolo, in the same level of detail that Burgundian terroir is mapped and appreciated,’ she said.

Decanter will publish Michaela Morris’ Barolo report in March. Morris, the Piedmont regional chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards, will highlight her top selections in this eagerly anticipated report.

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In the world of white wines, it has few comparisons. In a sea of lesser bottles, Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc is a shark among fish, a Great White, a wine of power and drama with the capacity to age and develop for decades.

But despite all of this, the region’s white wines remain stubbornly in the shadow of the reds. Production and plantings, however, are on the up, as demand increases and more of us discover – or rediscover – this majestic Mediterranean classic.

Scroll down for notes and scores for Walls’ top white Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Varietal mix

‘What do you think of when you hear “Châteauneuf-du-Pape”?’ asks Victor Coulon of producer Domaine de Beaurenard. ‘The reds,’ he says. ‘But the history of its whites is just as old.’

Red wines have always been in the majority in this part of the southern Rhône valley, but production of whites has just hit 8% of the total volume this year – the highest proportion since records began. Out of 310 producers making wine in the appellation, 143 now make a white, the regional authority states.

Of the nine white- and pink-skinned grapes permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, four of them have significant plantings: mainly Grenache Blanc and Clairette (respectively 90.9ha and 76.2ha in 2024), followed by Roussanne and Bourboulenc (53.4ha and 32.2ha).

Wines are usually a blend, but can also be made from a single variety – as for Châteauneuf reds.

Despite being the most common white grape, Grenache Blanc is rarely exciting by itself. Few people know the appellation better than Michel Blanc, a director at the Châteauneuf syndicat, or governing body. He believes the grape’s invaluable contribution is that ‘it brings the rest together… it’s like the olive oil in your salad dressing’.

Since 1985, most new plantings have been of Roussanne, the syndicat says, as it contributes flavour, richness and complexity. But winemakers are increasingly questioning its suitability in light of climate change. Laurent Bréchet, owner of Château de Vaudieu, is one.

He says ‘Roussanne is too sensitive to heat and sun,’ and is putting his money instead on the rarest variety of all: Picardan. There are only 2ha of Picardan in the appellation; Bréchet has 0.75ha in production, with plans to plant another hectare in 2025.

‘It’s like a white Cinsault,’ he says, ‘with big, juicy grapes and big bunches. It has very good balance, being not too powerful with lots of drinkability, fruity but not heavy.’

Bréchet has just made what he claims to be the first ever commercially released Châteauneuf-du- Pape made from 100% Picardan.

Not all winemakers share Bréchet’s enthusiasm for Picardan – of the rarer varieties, Coulon (son of Daniel Coulon, who shares ownership with his brother Frédéric) prefers Clairette Rose, Grenache Gris and Picpoul Gris – but the quality of Bréchet’s new cuvée proves Picardan’s potential.

Occasions to open white Châteauneuf-du-Pape

If you’re looking for a light, thirst-quenching aperitif – this isn’t it!

Textural and opulent, with only mellow acidity, white Châteauneuf is best served with food. Thankfully, it’s versatile, particularly well suited to richer, flavoursome styles of cuisine: roasted white meats like veal, pork or chicken; or meaty fish such as turbot. Mature wines work well with cream sauces, mushrooms and understated spicing.

White Châteauneuf is the perfect winter white.

Stylistic evolution

Blanc feels that in the 1990s there was too much oak influence in the region’s whites, but today the use of new barrels tends to be more measured. Due to its generosity and fullness of body, white Châteauneuf does benefit from a degree of oak ageing, as it helps to shape and focus a wine that can otherwise veer towards flabbiness.

As with any extensive appellation (recorded as 3,188ha in all in 2024), quality varies. Some wines can be heavy, others overly alcoholic, and in certain cuvées excessive new oak still dominates.

As with red Châteauneuf, it’s best to go on recommendation rather than buying blind. And don’t assume a producer of brilliant reds will necessarily make great whites, or vice versa.

Opulence, power and flamboyance are often celebrated in red wines, but more rarely in whites. Managing to balance these attributes is the key, and it’s not always easy in a wine that possesses only moderate natural acidity.

But the estates with the necessary skills – and the right soils to match their white varieties – can create freshness and drinkability through aromatics, tension and salinity. It’s these structural elements, along with some sustaining alcohol, that give these wines their prodigious ageing potential.

Though delicious in their first four to five years, the sweet spot is between 10 and 20 years, when their pear and quince fruits take on layers of toasted nuts, honey and intricate spicing. In Châteauneuf, ‘the whites age as well as the reds’, says Coulon.

White Châteauneuf with age: What to expect

White Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be enjoyed straight after bottling, and is delicious for the first four or five years from harvest. It can then go through an oxidative phase, so it’s safer to wait until after the 10-year mark before continuing.

At this point, the wine becomes increasingly complex. It will remain full-bodied but gradually lose a little puppy fat; the best will retain their salinity and tension. Flavours of honey, nuts, mushrooms and positive oxidative flavours blossom with time.

Growing prominence

Though white plantings are increasing, 8% is still a fairly small proportion compared to other Rhône appellations such as Lirac, which, according to the appellation, makes 12% whites.

But Blanc believes that 8% could increase to 20% over the next 10-15 years – partly with the intention of making white wines and partly for blending into reds ‘to preserve balance in the face of climate change’.

As the region’s relationship with white grapes evolves, and the quality of its white wines improves, it’s time for Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s whites to emerge from the shadows.

White wines from estates such as Domaine de Beaurenard, Château de Beaucastel and Famille Isabel Ferrando prove that they can certainly stand shoulder to shoulder with the region’s more famous reds.

Older vintages to drink now

Vintages from 2023 back to 2020 are delicious now, but if you have any 2019s through to 2016s, leave them to mature somewhere cool. The 2015s are starting to open up again, and the 2014s – a superlative year for white Châteauneuf – are extremely good now.

Between 10 and 20 years old is a sweet spot for those that enjoy a mature style, but great vintages like 2001 and 1999 will last much longer.

If you like white Rioja, white Hermitage or white Bordeaux, then you should try white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Top white Châteauneuf-du-Pape:

The first 20 wines were featured in the December 2024 issue of Decanter, followed by 12 additional wines.

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020: Best value wines

A friend of mine once described Chablis as both the best- and worst-value wine in the world.

What he meant was the cheapest wines weren’t very good – but still fairly expensive in the grand scheme of things. But despite the quality of the greatest examples, the prices never (or very rarely) reached the heights of other top white Burgundies, making the best bottles excellent value for money.

You can say a similar thing about Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are always some available in supermarkets for £15-£20 per bottle. At two to three times the average bottle price in the UK, this isn’t cheap. And while they might offer some pleasure, they almost certainly won’t be good examples of Châteauneuf. You’d probably be better off with a top Côtes du Rhône.

Scroll down for the best-value 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try

At the top end however, only a tiny proportion of Châteauneuf retails for more than £90 a bottle – the price of a good village Meursault.

But you don’t even need to spend that much – in a recent tasting of 110 Châteauneufs from the excellent 2020 vintage, I found 30 wines that retail for under £50 that deserve your attention. You can read a description of the vintage conditions in my last column.

What surprised me in this tasting was how many excellent Tradition bottlings there are in 2020 (ie, their entry-level classic blends, as opposed to their prestige bottles, known as Spéciales Cuvées). In fact, many of the more unbalanced wines that I decided not to recommend were Spéciales Cuvées.

Six 2020 Châteauneufs that retail for under £50 scored an impressive 95-points. One of these was available for under £30 on release. One is still available in UK retail for £34.

Value in Châteauneuf 

It’s true that £34 for a bottle of wine isn’t cheap. But there are several reasons why this represents a fair price in Châteauneuf. The main reason is that yields here are some of the lowest in France.

When I visited Vincent Avril at Clos des Papes in October, he was happy to reach 25hl/ha in 2023. ‘It’s good for here!’ he said with a smile, adding that his winemaker friends in Burgundy would be horrified at such a small amount, where yields for a village wine might be around 45hl/ha.

Châteauneuf winemakers end up with fewer bottles to sell for the same amount of land under vine, so need to charge reasonable prices to make a living.

Many of these wines are produced by organic, family-owned estates, which are features that many of us appreciate, and there is also a certain value in drinking a wine from a region with such a long and colourful tradition.

Finally, these are wines that can last incredibly well, taking on layers of complexity as they age. There aren’t many other wines I can think of that offer all this for £35.

2020 Châteauneuf revisited: Best-value wines

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Christmas marks the time of year when marketing hype goes into overdrive, encouraging us all to part with our hard-earned cash for everything from the latest kids’ toys to wifi-enabled washing machines..

For many of us, it’s the one occasion every year we will spend above our comfort zone on a few bottles of wine. But there’s no need to break the bank: despite rising supply chain and duty costs, it’s still possible to pick up some delicious, Christmas-worthy wines for under £15.

The selection below covers a wide selection of regions and styles, which will pair perfectly with turkey, duck, beef, vegetarian options, or even boxing day leftovers.

Surprise the wine connoisseur in your life this Christmas with a Decanter Premium subscription

Red wine for Christmas: things to know

Avoid big tannins

Unless you’re serving beef, it’s perhaps best to save your tannic reds (think young Bordeaux, Barolo, Napa Cabernet) for another time. You’ll find that the intense flavours, punchy spices and fattiness of traditional Christmas fare does not play nicely with tannins, and the result will be an astringent mouthful.

Instead, pick out a red with softer tannins such as a Rioja Gran Reserva, Chianti Classico, Pinot Noir, or a mature vintage of Bordeaux or Barolo.

Serve cool

One of the most common mistakes when serving reds is to pour them too warm, perhaps based on the misnomer that ‘room temperature’ is ok – except these days, most of us have central heating and houses are much warmer than when this advice first circulated. If served too warm, red wines can seem ‘flabby’ and lacking in energy. Instead, aim to serve light- to medium-bodied reds at 12-16°C (54-61°F), and fuller bodied reds at 15-18°C (59-65°F). They’ll warm up once in the glass anyway.

Don’t be misled by marketing tricks

As tempting as it can be, don’t fall for snazzy labels, heavy bottles and deep punts. They’re all marketing tricks to make a wine seem more premium than it is. Instead, home in on wines from a region or made from a grape variety that you know you like, and ideally find a winery that makes wines you’ve enjoyed in the past.

Buy ‘in the middle’

The cheapest wines are a false economy, as most of the price covers packaging, shipping and duty costs with very little left for the wine in the bottle.

Equally, once you get into premium territory you’re not always just paying for better wine – while the price will cover the cost of better production, such as high quality oak barrels, you might also be paying for the prestige of the winery or the region (think Champagne), or for buying a much more limited product (the law of supply and demand…).

The optimal value-for-money window is somewhere between around £10 and £25, and below £15 you’re in bargain territory if you shop carefully.

There are resources available to help you

You can, of course, search for reviews and recommendations on decanter.com. And we strongly recommend asking your local wine merchant for guidance. They may even have some samples open for you to taste!

Christmas red wine recommendations under £15/$20

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I remember tasting the 2020 Châteauneufs after they’d spent a year in barrel. It wasn’t the joyful experience it perhaps should have been, as winemakers often appeared subdued.

It wasn’t due to the quality of the wines, but rather the timing of my trip; I was visiting them just as they’d finished picking their 2021s – a punishing vintage, marked by cool conditions, low yields and patchy quality.

The 2020s in my glass however were often outstanding. Not in the concentrated, structured style of the preceding 2019s, but in an altogether fresher, more elegant vein.

Scroll down for the top-scoring 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try

It was clear then that 2020 was a very good vintage – but was it a great one? I had some niggling doubts.

Would the Tradition bottlings (an estate’s main bottling, as opposed to its top Cuvée Spéciale), some of which appeared quite light, take on weight once bottled?

And given that it wasn’t as concentrated as vaunted vintages like 2019, 2016 and 2010, did it nonetheless have the longevity you’d expect from a top year?

I’ve been looking forward to revisiting the 2020 Châteauneufs in bottle to answer these questions. Having tasted over 100 examples, I’m now in no doubt that 2020 is an excellent year, in quite a distinct style.

Growing season

It was a relatively stress-free season for growers in Châteauneuf. According to Marilou Vacheron at Le Clos du Caillou, ‘the vines accumulated significant water reserves of more than 400mm in autumn and winter. In addition, the winter and spring temperatures were quite mild, leading to rapid budburst two weeks early’.

With no frost and a plentiful flowering, crop loads were generous.

Like 2019, it was another hot and dry year, but without the same extremities. Nights were marginally cooler too, ‘which allowed a good synthesis of anthocyanins and tannins,’ says Vacheron.

Despite some rains just before and during harvest, Caroline Charrier at Domaine Font de Courtedune remembers that ‘the health of the grapes was very good… we started the harvest around 7 September, so a normal year’.

Others, such as Fabrice Brunel at Domaine les Cailloux, started earlier.

‘It was a very early harvest. We started on 20 August and finished on 20 September,’ says Brunel, ‘the harvest was short and intense, with the different grapes and terroirs maturing closer to each other than normal,’ with all the different varieties performing well.

‘These conditions gave very good yields of quality grapes producing wines with a sunny profile but good balance,’ says Brunel. ‘Juicy wines with beautiful smooth tannins and a lovely aromatic complexity.’

The tasting

The brightness that made these wines so compelling from barrel has not diminished in bottle. Not just freshness of fruit flavour and brisk acidity, but the tannins have a cleansing and precise texture that make the wines feel enlivening.

It’s true that the 2020 vintage doesn’t always have the muscle of the most powerful vintages, but it certainly has sufficient concentration – it’s far from weak. There are no problems with underripeness. On the contrary, around 10% of the wines I tasted had an overripe, jammy or baked character.

The alcohol levels are fairly elevated, and sometimes simply too high. But don’t use published ABVs as a guide, as this is an overly simplistic approach. There are many wines that are rich in alcohol but nonetheless taste balanced and have a lot to offer. Smart use of whole bunches by some winemakers was beneficial in creating balance.

When I tasted the wines from barrel, a good number of Tradition bottlings felt a little light. But largely they have taken on the weight and density in bottle that I’d hoped, and there are a lot of excellent, well-balanced, relatively inexpensive wines to choose from. I’ll be publishing a list of top-performing sub-£50 wines in my next column, including six that scored 95 points.

Analysing my tasting notes this time around, I was surprised to see that most of the wines that I’d rejected were in fact Cuvées Spéciales; usually due to overoaking, overripeness or unbalanced alcohol.

Quality and longevity

When I first tasted the 2020 Châteauneufs, I had some lingering reservations about their longevity, particularly the lighter-seeming Traditions. But having revisited them in bottle, these doubts have since been extinguished.

Thanks to its bright and compact nature, many of the wines are approachable now or will be within a couple of years. And due to their freshness and balance, most have a comfortable lifespan of 15-20 years; some up to 30 years.

Most so-called ‘great vintages’ in Châteauneuf are ones with power and concentration. But ‘greatness’ in Châteauneuf can be expressed in more ways than one, and if you value freshness, energy and drinkability in Châteauneuf, then 2020 deserves that moniker too.

I asked Benjamin Gras of Domaine Santa Duc how he would rate the vintage, and his thoughts chimed with my own. ‘Perfection doesn’t exist, so therefore I’d say 19/20!’ he says.

If you can still find them on the market, don’t hesitate to snap them up.

2020 Châteauneuf revisited:

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Serving red wine too warm can accentuate its alcohol and diminish its acidity, while chilling lighter reds can be beneficial. To help you get it right, from misconceptions about room temperature to wine style, we highlight some key things to consider if you’re looking forward to enjoying a glass of red. We also outline suggested temperature ranges for light, medium and full-bodied offerings.

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A quick guide to the best red wine temperatures

• Light-bodied, or ‘chillable’ reds: Serve these reds slightly chilled. Aim for around 12-13°C (54-56°F), but some can go down to 10°C, too
• Medium-bodied reds: Serve between 14 and 16°C (57-61°F)
• Full-bodied reds: Serve between 16 and 18°C (61-64°F) (cooler is probably better)

What does ‘room temperature’ mean when serving red wine?

The conventional way of thinking about serving red wine has long been the somewhat vague guidance: ‘room temperature’. The problem with this notion is two-fold. One is that it’s awfully subjective. Merriam-Webster dictionary defines room temperature as ‘a comfortable temperature that is not too hot or too cold’.

The thermostat in a given household could differ between one and 10 degrees from its neighbours, so while the definition may have a sort of ‘Goldilocks’ sentiment, ‘just right’ means different things to different people.

Another popular notion that might steer drinkers away from the term ‘room temperature’ is that these guidelines come from a different era. Think of an old country château, its thick stone walls, a fire burning in the hearth. This is a far cry from central heating.

According to Go Compare, the average UK household temperature in 1966 was 12°C (54°F), but these days, it’s 18°C (64°F). In the US, the Department of Energy recommends thermostats be set at 68°F (20°C). In both cases, these current temperatures are in excess or at the upper end of the acceptable serving temperatures for red wine, so using ‘room temperature’ as a guideline will result in a less-than-desirable drinking experience.

Are you serving red wines too warm?

When wines are served too warm, the heat can accentuate some of the wine’s harsher elements. The foremost issue is that the heat accents the wine’s alcohol, giving it a ‘hot’ feeling, which in extreme cases can feel akin to drinking spirits.

In addition, the freshness and acidity that balance the wine’s weightiness and ripe fruit can appear subdued in a warm wine. Wine is a question of personal taste, but these are considered undesirable qualities.

Many of us have probably experienced a ‘soupy’ red wine at one time or another, whether on holiday in a warm climate or in a restaurant without a wine cellar under control. Sticking the wine in the refrigerator or an ice bucket for 10 to 20 minutes can help bring the wine into balance and make for a much more pleasant drinking experience.

Can you serve red wine chilled?

Generally, lighter styles of red wine can be served at lower temperatures. These include red wines that are lighter in style and typically see little to no oak fermentation in the production process. Cool climate varieties like Pinot Noir, Gamay, Schiava and Zweigelt come to mind immediately.

Some light-bodied red wines benefit from chilling, too.

When recommending lighter summer wines for Decanter magazine, Peter Richards MW wrote that ‘good summer reds should be served at 10°C-16°C (50°F-60°F)’.

He added, ‘That’s significantly cooler than many a summer’s day, so don’t be afraid to pop them in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving.’

It can be hard to generalise about particular wines or grape varieties due to variations in winemaking styles. However, Beaujolais (Gamay) and Valpolicella Classico (Corvina) are typically found at the lighter, chilled end of the serving temperature spectrum.

The below graphic from Decanter’s archive shows how Pinot Noir would generally range from light to medium-bodied, with some styles of Rioja (Tempranillo) in the mid-range and then the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant and Syrah/Shiraz wines of this world in the full-bodied band.

How can you get the serving temperature right?

A wine fridge with pinpoint temperature control is the gold standard for dialling in your serving temperature, but a simple wine thermometer can also help. It might also be helpful to know the room temperature you’re in.

Trust your gut instinct, too. ‘I can’t recall the last time I used a thermometer either at home or in a professional environment,’ sommelier Xavier Rousset told Decanter.

Aside from obvious faults, how balanced does the wine taste?

If a red wine needs warming up slightly, you can always cradle the glass in your hands to improve the experience.

Watch out for temperature changes during drinking, though. ‘The temperature of wine rises dramatically in the glass, so your classic 18ºC Bordeaux becomes (depending where you are) 22ºC or more in the glass very quickly,’ said Rousset.

‘The hardest thing by far is to maintain the correct temperature throughout the time of consumption or over the course of your meal.’

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