During my en primeur tastings in October this year, I ask Franck Balthazar what he thinks of the 2024 vintage.

‘I love it,’ he says, and to taste his wines you immediately see why. It’s the kind of vintage that really chimes with his fragrant, elegant style of Cornas.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Cornas & St-Péray

According to Olivier Clape, ‘it looks more like an old-school vintage, less big and impressive, but more detailed’.

Here, like elsewhere in Cornas, it’s a return to a more measured style that’s more about classicism than exuberance or power.

Some wines are a touch dilute and lack breadth, but most have energy and freshness, often accompanied by a herbal note to the aromatic profile.

Most will be approachable young, and apart from a few notable exceptions, this isn’t a vintage for long ageing, so pay attention to the drinking windows advised.

See all Cornas 2024 wines tasted

See all St-Péray 2024 wines tasted

Key Cornas & St-Péray producers in 2024

• Frank Balthazar – Cornas
• Domaine Clape – Cornas
• M Chapoutier – St-Péray
• Domaine Bernard Gripa – St-Péray

Best-value Cornas & St-Péray wines in 2024

• Chapoutier, Haut Chamblard, St-Péray 2024
• Domaine Johann Michel, St-Péray 2024
• Domaine Courbis, Champelrose, Cornas 2024

Compare vintages: See coverage from previous years

Cornas & St-Péray 2023: Report and top-scoring wines

Cornas & St-Péray 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Cornas & St-Péray 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

See the full Rhône 2024 vintage report

Cornas & St-Péray wines in 2024

Wines rated 97+ are featured in the main report

Related articles

• Walls: A vertical of a great Cornas cuvée
• Cornas to drink now: Matt Walls’ top 20
• Expert’s Choice: St-Péray

Conditions were challenging throughout the Rhône Valley in 2024, but the northern pole of the northern Rhône struggled the most.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for wines from Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu

Quality is heterogeneous in Côte-Rôtie. Rather than single-vineyard wines, it was the blends that often showed best.

In fact, Stéphane Ogier won’t be making his single-vineyard Côte-Rôties this year; ‘It’s a fresher vintage,’ he says, ‘and they have their place.’

Yields were very varied even within individual parcels, and several estates said they had to chaptalise.

This being said, there are some lovely individual wines, in a delicate, compact style. These should largely be best drunk young. But overall, this isn’t a brilliant vintage for Côte-Rôtie.

Though white wines are often excellent in 2024, across both the northern and southern Rhône, the picture in Condrieu is mixed. Although many are largely fresh and balanced, some lack enough concentration and length.

The best wines are head and shoulders above the rest however, showing intensity, vitality and no excess alcohol. It will pay to do your research in this vintage.

See all Côte-Rôtie 2024 wines tasted

See all Condrieu 2024 wines tasted

Key Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu producers in 2024

• M Chapoutier – Condrieu
• Domaine Merlin – Condrieu
• Pierre-Jean Villa – Condrieu
• Domaine JP Jamet – Côte-Rôtie
• E Guigal – Côte-Rôtie

Best-value Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu wines in 2024

• Roland Grangier, Les Combéluz, Condrieu 2024
• Mouton Père et Fils, Côte Bonnette, Condrieu 2024
• François et Fils, Rozier, Côte-Rôtie 2024
• Domaine Billon Christophe, La Brocarde, Côte-Rôtie 2024

Compare vintages: See our coverage of Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu from previous years

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2023: Report and top-scoring wines

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

See the full Rhône 2024 vintage report

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu wines in 2024

Wines rated 97+ are featured in the main report

Related articles

• Walls: A Côte-Rôtie with a Burgundian flourish
• Walls: tasting Domaine Burgaud’s Côte-Rôtie 1988-2008
• Walls: Côte-Rôtie 2019 in bottle

Rhône 2024 en primeur vintage rating:

Northern Rhône 2024: 3.5/5

The whites are excellent, but it’s a lighter red vintage for the reds, offering many well-balanced, fresh and immediate wines, largely for drinking young and into the medium term. Some reds lack full ripeness, particularly in Côte-Rôtie.

Southern Rhône 2024: 3.5/5

A juicy, fresh and balanced vintage with only moderate alcohol, though some reds lack concentration. Reds are particularly strong in Gigondas. Whites are excellent throughout the region.

In the context of the past 10 years, the 2024 vintage in the Rhône is an outlier.

With many recent vintages being marked by heat and drought, 2024 feels like a throwback to an earlier age, one before global warming. It’s like a good vintage from the 1990s – balanced, fresh and drinkable.

The 2024s offer bright acidity, moderate alcohol and aromatic precision.

Is it a ‘Great Vintage’? No; it’s a respectable vintage full of wines that you can enjoy immediately for their tension and vibrancy.

The reds are unlikely to shut down as they age, and the whites are reliably excellent throughout the Rhône Valley.

This vintage is not without its shortcomings. The growing season was extremely challenging and as a result some wines lack concentration. Most aren’t built for long ageing.

But while the overall level is good rather than great, there are a host of wines which transcend the vintage to reach peaks of genuine excellence.

Northern Rhône red wine of the vintage:

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage 2024

Northern Rhône white wine of the vintage:

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage 2024

Southern Rhône red wine of the vintage:

Château de St-Cosme, Le Poste, Gigondas 2024

Southern Rhône white wine of the vintage:

Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2024

See all Rhône 2024 tasting notes and scores

Northern Rhône 2024

‘We had English weather up until July!’ says Yann Chave (of his eponymous domaine), referring to the incessant rain they suffered in Crozes-Hermitage during spring and into summer. ‘August saved the vintage,’ he says, ‘otherwise it would have been a catastrophe.’

A mild winter was followed by early budbreak, but then the weather turned cool and wet in April. In Cornas, Olivier Clape (of Domaine Clape) had 600mm of rain from April to July (820mm is the yearly average).

This created a horde of problems throughout the northern Rhône, including uneven ripening and poor fruit set (millerandage and coulure), not to mention downy mildew and black rot. Occurring towards the start of the season, it affected yields more than quality.

It was particularly difficult for those working organically, such as Domaine Gonon, as they had fewer mitigation options in their armoury. Jean Gonon says that they had to carry out a record number of treatments in the vineyard in 2024 – something echoed by Clape and others.

The rains often came on Thursdays and Fridays, which made the situation even more exhausting as estates had to spray during weekends – if they could. Thankfully there was bright weather between the showers, unlike the even gloomier 2021 vintage.

The sun finally arrived and dried out the vineyards in August. Though hot, the mercury didn’t rise above 40°C, and the ground contained enough water to sustain the vines. September turned cool and windy. With rain forecast, some were forced to pick earlier than they would have liked.

Highs and lows

Cool, wet weather at the end of the season was just one cause of the lack of concentration and a herbaceous streak in some of the reds. Mildew-affected vines and excessive crop loads were others. Occasional use of unripe stems was a contributing factor, too.

The more southerly red appellations (Hermitage, Cornas and southern St-Joseph) were the most successful in 2024.

Côte-Rôtie saw the worst of the weather, and the wines are more disappointing – though with some notable exceptions.

Crozes-Hermitage also struggled; vineyards on the slopes tend to fare better in wet weather.

White wines are excellent throughout. There are countless wonderful Marsanne/Roussanne wines to choose from, and many good Viogniers from Condrieu, though with fewer flashes of brilliance.

This won’t be the longest-lived vintage for reds. Neither will you have to wait; with relatively delicate tannic structures, the majority will be ready to drink on release or soon after.

Considering the trials that growers faced in 2024, it’s surprising that so many made such good wines – many people were surprised at how well they’d turned out. Including me.

Key northern Rhône producers in 2024

• Domaine Belle
• Domaine Clape
• Domaine Gonon
• Frank Balthazar
• Jean-Louis Chave
• M Chapoutier

Top value northern Rhône 2024

• Domaine Vendome, Les Bruclas, Crozes-Hermitage 2024
• Benoît Roseau, Sur le Quartz, St-Joseph 2024
• François et Fils, Rozier, Côte-Rôtie 2024
• Benoît Roseau, La Ribaude, St-Joseph 2024

Southern Rhône 2024

Weather conditions were similar in the northern and southern Rhône in 2024, and the wines display a similar style: good acidity, moderate alcohol, fresh and drinkable – but sometimes lacking concentration.

Growers report a nerve-wracking start to the year. ‘It was difficult from the beginning…we nearly lost the vintage,’ says César Perrin of Château de Beaucastel. ‘There was mildew before flowering – that’s the worst’.

He’s pleased with the final results though, calling it ‘an elegant vintage, more drinkable than 2023 and 2022’.

The downy mildew was more localised compared to the northern Rhône; parts of Châteauneuf-du-Pape were hit hard, whereas other appellations, such as Vacqueyras, got away relatively unscathed.

The Grenache was also badly hit by coulure, which further reduced yields – it was a small crop in the south this year. Mourvèdre, however, performed well.

The two heat spikes in August drew a line under the poor weather at the start of the season. Two storms in early September and one towards the end of the month raised the spectre of rot, but thankfully the mistral arrived and dried out the vines.

The cool weather that followed made for a gradual accrual of tannins and a relaxed harvest, typically in mid-October.

Bright spots

For red wines, Gigondas stands out in 2024. Perrin says there was less rain and more wind compared to Châteauneuf, meaning growers could wait even later to pick, resulting in better levels of ripeness.

In fact, all appellations situated in and around the Dentelles de Montmirail fared well, including Beaumes de Venise, Côtes du Rhône named Villages such as Sablet and Séguret, and parts of Ventoux.

It was also a good vintage for Vacqueyras, and there are plenty of strong individual wines from Châteauneuf.

White wines are excellent throughout all appellations – in fact it’s a stronger year for whites than reds. There are countless impressive examples from Châteauneuf and Gigondas, and some beautiful rosés from Tavel.

When I visited the Rhône Valley in October this year, winemakers couldn’t contain their excitement and enthusiasm for the 2025 vintage that they’d just picked.

Early impressions suggest a contrast to 2024: concentrated, structured wines for long ageing. It’s a very small vintage, but you’re likely to want some.

The 2024s will provide some deliciously fresh and crunchy wines to drink while you wait for the 2025s to come round.

Key southern Rhône producers in 2024

• Château de Beaucastel
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Château de St Cosme
• Domaine Santa Duc
• Domaine l’Anglore
• Domaine des Escaravailles
• Domaine la Cabotte
• Château La Borie

Top value southern Rhône 2024

• Château de la Font du Loup, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2024
• Le Clos des Cazaux, Les Clefs d’Or, Vacqueyras 2024
• Château la Borie, Syrah, Côtes du Rhône Villages Suze la Rousse 2024
• Domaine Elodie Balme, Champs Libres, Côtes du Rhône Villages Roaix 2024

Top-scoring Rhône 2024 wines:

See below the 30 highest scoring wines, listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• The 12 best Cornas wines to drink now or save for later
• Eight top Rhône wines to buy in the supermarket
• Northern Rhône 2015: Panel tasting results

Northern Rhône overall vintage rating: 3.5 / 5

Fresh, supple and drinkable reds at the southern pole; more concentration in the northern reaches, making for some very fine Côte-Rôtie. Vibrant, fresh whites, particularly good in Hermitage.

Red wine of the vintage:

Stéphane Ogier, Lancement, Côte-Rôtie 2023

White wine of the vintage:

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite, Hermitage 2023

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If 2023 was challenging in the southern Rhône, it was even more troublesome in the north. The decisive climatic incidents were essentially the same, but parts of the northern Rhône had additional problems to contend with.

Despite this, there are some very good wines if you buy with care, with certain appellations performing better than others.

Role reversal

January to April was very dry, then May to August was wet – a reversal of normal rainfall patterns, which produced a big crop and rampant vegetation.

It also brought about downy mildew and black rot outbreaks throughout the season, the wet weather lasting for longer here than it did in the south.

Successive treatments were needed in the vineyard, and some areas suffered reduced yields as a result. According to Pierre Rostaing of Domaine Rostaing, mildew can give earthy, bitter notes to a wine, so careful sorting was required.

Hail menaced the area throughout the summer. It hit different parts of St-Joseph in May, June and July; Cornas twice in July; and Crozes-Hermitage in August.

The heatwave that came in the second half of August was very drawn-out. Jean Gonon of Domaine Gonon says they had temperatures of 40-42 ̊C for a fortnight.

‘We’ve never seen that during a two-week period before,’ he says.

Reports of scorched foliage, sunburnt grapes and young vines dying in the heat were widespread.

See all 400 Rhône 2023 tasting notes and scores

Harvest contrasts

‘What was supposed to be a late vintage became an early vintage,’ says Maxime Chapoutier of M Chapoutier, as they rushed out to pick the whites. But some of the reds hung on until October. ‘Six weeks of harvest – a record for us,’ he says.

I happened to be in the region to witness the storm of 18 September. The next day I tried to walk up the hill of Hermitage, but it was impossible.

The foot of the hill was a mess of wooden posts, bits of vine, mud and rock, and the torrents of rain had cut deep ravines into the paths.

According to Guillaume Sorrel of Domaine Marc Sorrel, 30mm of rain was forecast, but over 100mm fell. It caught many growers off guard, and he estimates that by that time only half of the hill had been harvested.

Some vineyards on the slopes suffered superficial damage, but at least the rain runs off here; on the flat parts of Crozes-Hermitage, the rain had a diluting effect on some of the wines.

In Côte-Rôtie, and the northern part of St-Joseph, the rain was much lighter, just 20mm according to Stéphane Ogier, ‘almost beneficial,’ he says.

He finished picking on 11 October in ‘an Indian summer… everything we picked at the end was magnificent.’

The whites are the other big success this year, particularly in Hermitage, where the wines have depth, power and freshness.

Read Matt Walls’ full vintage overview

Top northern Rhône producers in 2023

• Benjamin & David Duclaux
• Domaine Clape
• Domaine Jean-Paul Jamet
• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Domaine Vincent Paris
• M Chapoutier
• Maison Stéphan
• Stéphane Ogier
• Yves Cuilleron

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2023 wines:

Highest scoring wines are listed white, then red in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: A Côte-Rôtie with a Burgundian flourish
• Walls: A vertical of a great Cornas cuvée
• Walls: How to find value in the Rhône

Vinsobres

It was a very good vintage in Vinsobres, the wines expressing all the classic markers of this terroir: bold, punchy tannins and concentrated, dense fruit. Acid and alcohol levels were more balanced here than further south. If you’re unfamiliar with this cru, 2023 is a good year to explore it.

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Rasteau

Rasteau performed very well too – juicy, fresh and ripe, with a touch of classic Rasteau sucrosité. Tannins can be on the low side, and in places the fruit can taste jammy, but these are largely well-balanced reds for early drinking. It’s not the equal of the superb 2020 vintage here, but it’s not far off.

Cairanne

Of the three appellations in question, Cairanne is the least consistent, but there is still no lack of good wines to recommend. The style is more compact compared to Vinsobres and Rasteau, dark in fruit but more petite than some recent vintages, fresh and drinkable. Though quite up-and-down overall, the best reds are worth seeking out. The whites however are consistently very good.

Key Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres producers in 2023

• Domaine des Escaravailles – Rasteau
• Domaine de Beaurenard – Rasteau
• Domaine Richaud – Cairanne
• Domaine Alary – Cairanne
• Château de Rouanne – Vinsobres
• Domaine L’Ancienne Ecole – Vinsobres

Best-value Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres wines in 2023

• Domaine Alary, L’Estevenas, Cairanne 2023
• Domaine des Escaravailles, Les Coteaux, Rasteau 2023
• Domaine Serre Besson, Vinsobres 2023

Under-the-radar Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres producers in 2023

• Château de Rouanne
• Domaine Wilfried
• La Ferme du Mont

Rhône 2023 full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide

Compare vintages: See our coverage of Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres wines from previous years

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2020: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2023 wines:

Related articles

• Walls: Rasteau 2020 in bottle
• Behind Rasteau’s renaissance plus 10 ‘new look’ bottles to seek out

Lirac

In challenging years, it’s often the west bank of the southern Rhône that bears the brunt. But somehow, between the dry start, disease pressure and heatwave, Lirac managed to turn out a collection of very impressive wines in 2023.

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The reds have more freshness and better structure than many on the east bank, with good concentration, and the alcohols appear better balanced here than in neighbouring appellations. They will drink well young, and develop in bottle with interest.

The standard of white Lirac is also very high. Wines are of consistently good quality, showing the improved standard of winemaking here in recent years.

These are fresh, balanced wines that will show their best while young.

Tavel

Tavel also had a good year – fresh, with balanced acidity and concentrated strawberry and raspberry flavours.

It feels like a vintage to enjoy young, as only the very best have the intensity to endure.

Key Lirac & Tavel producers in 2023

• Château de Montfaucon – Lirac
• Château d’Aqueria – Lirac
• Domaine l’Anglore – Tavel
• Château Boucarut – Tavel

Best-value Lirac & Tavel wines in 2023

• Château Boucarut, Pierres Vivantes, Lirac 2023
• Domaine Maby, La Fermade, Lirac 2023
• Chateau d’Aqueria, Lirac 2023

Under-the-radar Lirac & Tavel producers in 2023

• Alexandre Hôte
• Château Boucarut
• Rocca Maura

Rhône 2023 full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide

Compare vintages: See our coverage of Lirac & Tavel wines from previous years

Lirac & Tavel 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Lirac & Tavel 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Lirac & Tavel 2020: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Lirac & Tavel 2023 wines:

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Beaumes de Venise

The reds in Beaumes de Venise showed particularly well in 2023, ripe and concentrated but with more moderate alcohols than elsewhere, making for a fresh and drinkable vintage here. The Muscats were less successful.

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Gigondas

‘If we were just looking at the weather, I’m not sure there would be much difference between 2022 and 2023,’ says Benjamin Gras at Domaine Santa Duc, but he believes the cooler nights in 2023 produced fresher tannins.

There’s some diversity of style, even within individual producers’ ranges, but largely it’s a vintage of compact, ripe, elegant wines in Gigondas, often with quite light tannic frames and mild acidity, but it’s a step up from 2022 here.

It’s the first vintage that Gigondas has been permitted to make white wines, and there are some lovely Clairette-based wines that are worth exploring.

Vacqueyras

The style in Vacqueyras is more consistent – juicy, succulent reds, often with quite potent alcohol. Tannins are reliably ripe, often soft; the fruit can be sweet.

The whites are fresher, with good concentration and impact.

Key Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise producers in 2023

• Château de St Cosme – Gigondas
• Domaine des Bosquets – Gigondas
• Domaine Santa Duc – Gigondas
• Domaine la Monardière – Vacqueyras
• Domaine le Sang des Cailloux – Vacqueyras
• Domaine des Bernardins – Beaumes de Venise

Best-value Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise wines in 2023

• Domaine des Bernardins, Beaumes de Venise 2023
• La Ferme du Mont, Jugunda, Gigondas 2023
• Domaine d’Ouréa, Vacqueyras Blanc 2023

Under-the-radar Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise producers in 2023

• Domaine d’Ouréa
• Domaine des Aphillanthes
• Le Clos de Caveau

Rhône 2023 full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide

Compare vintages: See our coverage of Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise wines from previous years

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2023 wines:

Wines are listed by appellation then white and red by score.

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While we were in the tasting room of La Vieille Julienne with Jean-Paul Daumen and his son Antoine, all of our mobile phones simultaneously sounded the same alarm.

It was to warn people in the vicinity of the Rhône river that it was about to rise to dangerous levels due to storms in the Cévennes mountains.

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The chaotic weather could be felt in the 2023 wines. Daumen described 2023 as, ‘a very extreme vintage… we’re out of our comfort zone.’

Due to sugar levels in the grapes, some of his tanks were still fermenting 12 months on, something he’s only experienced three times previously.

It was a long, drawn-out harvest period in Châteauneuf and yields were plentiful. Château de Beaucastel started picking its whites on 20 August and finished on 10 October. The long finish to the season ‘was perfect for Mourvèdre,’ said Beaucastel’s César Perrin.

Stylistically it’s somewhat mixed, but the prevailing style in 2023 is rich, potent and powerful. Alcohols are high this year, so finding wines with balance was the principal challenge.

It wasn’t always easy, as often the tannic structures were soft and acidities fairly low. But there are some very good wines, primarily from old vines that could withstand the dry periods and heat.

The whites are more consistent than the reds this year. Fresh, intense, expressive and ripe – but rarely overripe, apart from some pure Roussannes.

The Clairettes are particularly fine and floral.

Key Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers in 2023

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château Rayas
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Domaine de la Solitude

Best-value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines in 2023

• Domaine La Manarine, Pied de Baud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023
• Domaine La Cabotte, Vieilles Vignes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2023
• Château Beauchêne, Vignobles de la Serrière, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2023

Under-the-radar Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers in 2023

• Domaine Juliette Avril
• Domaine La Manarine
• Domaine Mayard

Rhône 2023 full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2023: The connoisseur’s guide

Compare vintages: See our coverage of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines from previous years

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023 wines:

The wines below scored 95 points or above and are listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: 26 value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 & 2009: Panel tasting results
• Regional profile: Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Southern Rhône overall vintage rating: 3.5 / 5

A juicy, ripe vintage, relatively soft in tannin and acidity, but nonetheless displaying detailed terroir expression. Châteauneuf more mixed; some excellent, others overripe. Consistently good vintage for whites throughout the region.

Red wine of the vintage:

Domaine Santa Duc, Clos des Hospices, Gigondas, 2023

White wine of the vintage:

Domaine de Beaurenard Boisrenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2023

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Starting at the beginning

The story of a vintage really begins once the last of the previous year’s grapes have been harvested – so for 2023, we need to start by looking at the last quarter of 2022.

Thankfully, this period was very wet, with rain replenishing water reserves ahead of what turned out to be another parched growing season.

January to March 2023 was exceptionally dry, which is unusual for this time of year. From the 21 January to 21 February, not a drop fell from the sky.

‘We don’t have climate change here – we have a deregulated climate,’ says Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes. In other words, when it does rain it all comes at once, and scorching heatwaves are now common.

The lack of rain continued into April, coupled with a harsh, drying mistral. The water situation continued to be troubling until mid-May, when it finally started raining, with frequent small showers until the end of June. It didn’t amount to much, but it was enough.

Damp periods and warmth are perfect conditions for downy mildew and black rot, but it wasn’t as widespread or virulent as 2018. It affected yields more than quality.

See all 400 Rhône 2023 tasting notes and scores

Turning up the heat

July and early August were very warm, but it was nothing like 2022 (the hottest year on record in France); 2023 was beginning to look like an excellent vintage. Then temperatures took off like a rocket.

The week from 19-26 August was scorching, with temperatures over 40 ̊C. ‘It was like a microwave, like an oven,’ says Frédéri Férigoule of Le Sang des Cailloux in Vacqueyras.

His vines were grilled to the point that the young plants dropped their leaves. ‘But the old vines – no problem.’

Most white varieties could be picked before the end of the heatwave, and whites and rosés are delicious across the southern Rhône. The reds weren’t yet fully ripe, so they had to run the gauntlet.

Instant drinkability

On the plus side, ripeness is not an issue in 2023 – the region is awash with crowd-pleasing, approachable wines, with a fairly high baseline for quality. But a proportion are a little too juicy and easy, with low acidity, high alcohol and soft structure.

Keep an eye out for wines with Mourvèdre in the blend; it brings some welcome sinew in a year like this.

Comparing 2023 to recent vintages isn’t easy; 2022 is probably the closest, but the wines of 2023 have less-angular tannins and high alcohol levels. It’s comparable in terms of quality, but 2022 is probably fractionally better.

But the 2022s will take time to soften, whereas the 2023s will give pleasure immediately.

Read Matt Walls’ full vintage overview

Top southern Rhône producers in 2023

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château de Nalys
• Château de St Cosme
• Château Rayas
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine de la Solitude
• Domaine des Bosquets
• Domaine l’Anglore

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2023 wines:

Highest scoring wines are listed white, then red in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: A Côte-Rôtie with a Burgundian flourish
• Walls: A vertical of a great Cornas cuvée
• Walls: How to find value in the Rhône

Rhône 2023 en primeur vintage rating:

Northern Rhône 2023: 3.5 / 5

Fresh, supple and drinkable reds at the southern pole; more concentration in the northern reaches, making for some very fine Côte-Rôtie. Vibrant, fresh whites, particularly good in Hermitage.

Southern Rhône 2023: 3.5 / 5

A juicy, ripe vintage, relatively soft in tannin and acidity, but nonetheless displaying detailed terroir expression. Châteauneuf more mixed; some excellent, others overripe. Consistently good vintage for whites throughout the region.

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‘When we get rain, there’s too much; when we get sun, there’s too much.’

This was Guillaume Sorrel’s summary of current weather patterns in the Rhône, and it’s one that many winemakers would recognise in 2023. It was a season of extremes that pulled this way and that, but most winemakers managed to wrestle good results from the chaos.

On paper it was another very hot, dry year – it didn’t break records like 2022 did, but it wasn’t far off. The year started out exceptionally dry, but thankfully the rain came mid-May – and it kept coming in regular small showers.

The water was welcome – crucial, in fact – but it brought with it downy mildew and black rot in the jungle of foliage that burst forth, particularly in the northern Rhône. It made for a demanding few months for vignerons.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring Rhône 2023 wines

Summer was hot. The heat rose in a crescendo throughout late August with a fierce heatwave that left an indelible stamp on the vintage. As in 2022, there were some blockages in ripening, but they weren’t as significant in 2023.

The impact was typically concentrated grapes, reduced acidity and more potent levels of alcohol.

The result in the southern Rhône is a clutch of juicy, approachable and early-drinking wines that are enjoyably ripe with soft tannins and gentle acidity. This style can be found throughout the region, but the appellations that really surpassed themselves were the lesser-known crus – Vinsobres, Lirac, Beaumes de Venise and Rasteau.

Northern Rhône red wine of the vintage:

Stéphane Ogier, Lancement, Côte-Rôtie

Northern Rhône white wine of the vintage:

M Chapoutier, L’Ermite, Hermitage

Southern Rhône red wine of the vintage:

Domaine Santa Duc, Clos des Hospices, Gigondas

Southern Rhône white wine of the vintage:

Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

See all 400 Rhône 2023 tasting notes and scores

The weather was similar in the northern Rhône – producers here were also hit by the August heatwave – but there was even more drama.

There were sudden, localised hailstorms in Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage and parts of St-Joseph. More seriously, there was a torrential downpour in the southern part of the northern Rhône on 18 September. Over 100mm of rain was dumped overnight.

Certain spots were hit worse than others, but it resulted in some dilute wines, particularly in Crozes-Hermitage.

Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, and the northern parts of St-Joseph, however, were spared, with just 20mm falling around Ampuis. So it’s a vintage of two halves in the northern Rhône – the wines at its northern pole are excellent; further south, simply good.

Southern Rhône 2023: Full report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2023: Full report and top-scoring wines 

White wines were a success story throughout the Rhône in 2023. They have intensity, freshness and energy, and are more appetising than the 2022 whites, which are often heavy in comparison.

Most of the past eight vintages have been some combination of hot and dry, but they nonetheless all have a distinct style. They usually need significant time in bottle to show their best.

The 2023s, however, are immediately drinkable and enjoyable. So it will be a useful vintage in that respect, tiding us over until the others are ready to drink.

Key Rhône producers in 2023

Northern Rhône

• Benjamin & David Duclaux
• Domaine Clape
• Domaine Jean-Paul Jamet
• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Domaine Vincent Paris
• M Chapoutier
• Maison Stéphan
• Stéphane Ogier
• Yves Cuilleron

Southern Rhône

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château de Nalys
• Château de St Cosme
• Château Rayas
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine de la Solitude
• Domaine des Bosquets
• Domaine l’Anglore

Top-scoring Rhône 2023 wines:

See below the 30 highest scoring wines, listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: A Côte-Rôtie with a Burgundian flourish
• Walls: A vertical of a great Cornas cuvée
• Walls: How to find value in the Rhône

Côte-Rôtie

Young Côte-Rôties are normally fairly easy to read, but that wasn’t the case with the 2022s. Many of them appeared very fruity, with soft structures, lacking energy and aromatic detail. There were some excellent exceptions however, often from those originating from old vines grown on schist and fermented with a proportion of whole bunch.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

The grapes appeared ready to pick very early on, according to Stéphane Ogier, but to obtain full phenolic maturity, ‘you really had to wait,’ he says.

The best are very tannic and will likely close down for a period after bottling, so could disappoint if opened too soon; patience will be essential. I intend to reassess these once in bottle when they should offer a clearer image of what’s to come.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Crozes-Hermitage | St-Joseph | Cornas & St-Péray | Hermitage

Condrieu

As for Condrieu, Ogier reports ‘good volumes, but low acidity, even though we blocked the malo’.

It was a very mixed bag, with many wines lacking a sense of drinkability – simply too high in alcohol, glycerol and soft peach fruit. But this wasn’t the case for all the wines. Where producers could find freshness and balance – thanks to great terroir, smart winemaking, or both – there are some very impressive wines.

The style this year is intense, flamboyant and powerful, even for Condrieu.

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 key producers:

• Domaine JP Jamet, Côte-Rôtie
• E Guigal, Côte-Rôtie
• Stéphane Ogier, Côte-Rôtie
• M Chapoutier, Condrieu
• Pierre Jean Villa, Condrieu

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 top value wines:

• Château le Devay, Condrieu 2022
• André Perret, Condrieu 2022
• Pierre Gaillard, Côte-Rôtie 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 95 points or above, and are listed Condrieu then Côte-Rôtie in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: Côte-Rôtie 2019 in bottle
• Walls’ hidden gems: Domaine Garon, Côte-Rôtie
• Regional profile: Condrieu plus 12 wines to seek out

It felt like I was tasting two different vintages while working my way through more than 100 St-Josephs this year. Some of the reds were diminutive but fresh and well-balanced; others were soft, luxurious and liqueur-fruited.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring St-Joseph 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

There are a lot of very good wines to choose from however, particularly in the lighter style, which was more prevalent around the southern pole of the appellation near Mauves.

The whites were also very good. Though some were overdone and heavy – particularly those using excessive new oak – most have managed to balance richness and drinkability. Nonetheless, expect an opulent, bombastic style.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu | Crozes-Hermitage | Cornas & St-Péray | Hermitage

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

St-Joseph 2022 key producers:

• Domaine Coursodon
• Domaine Gonon
• Domaine JL Chave
• Lionel Faury
• M Chapoutier

St-Joseph 2022 top value wines:

• Domaine Coursodon, Silice Blanc, St-Joseph 2022
• Domaine Lionel Faury, Les Ribaudes, St-Joseph Rouge 2022
• Domaine Stéphane Rousset, St-Joseph Rouge 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring St-Joseph 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 92 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The north
• Walls: Discovering St-Joseph estate Martine & Christian Rouchier
• St-Joseph 2021: report and top-scoring wines

Cornas

It was particularly dry in Cornas, with about 100mm of rain between April and harvest, according to Pierre Clape. It’s no surprise therefore that the ripening blockages are felt more keenly here than elsewhere in the north. ‘But the leaves stayed green, in contrast to 2003,’ says Clape.

Tannins can be difficult, rough and fibrous in places, but, both here and elsewhere, sensitive use of oak has helped to paper over the cracks and add some palate weight.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

St-Péray

It’s a more consistent vintage in St-Péray, where the wines are generous and will be at their best in their youth.

It was a tough year for Roussanne throughout the northern Rhône, but Marsanne performed well, and tended to produce fresher and more balanced wines than Viognier.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu | St-Joseph | Crozes-Hermitage | Hermitage

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Cornas & St-Péray 2022 key producers:

• Franck Balthazar, Cornas
• Domaine Clape, Cornas
• Domaine Vincent Paris, Cornas
• Cave de Tain, St-Péray
• M Chapoutier, St-Péray

Cornas & St-Péray 2022 top value wines:

• Domaine Farge, Grain de Silex, St-Péray 2022
• Domaine Mucyn, Hypsos, Cornas 2022
• Domaine Eric et Joël Durand, Empreintes, Cornas 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 92 points or above, and are listed in order of St-Péray and Cornas in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: 10 exciting estates to know in Cornas
• Cornas to drink now: Matt Walls’ top 20
• Expert’s Choice: St-Péray

It’s an unusual style of red Hermitage this year: smaller in structure and stature than a usual year. Again, as with other appellations, it’s primarily down to problems with ripening – Guillaume Sorrel said it didn’t rain at all on the hill of Hermitage in June, July or August, and Maxime Chapoutier remembers the mercury hitting 40 ̊C as early as June.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Hermitage 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

When balanced, the wines are charming, approachable and fairly fresh. The best will build complexity over time, but most will be at their peak when fairly young, about the 10-14 year mark. Soils with more clay such as Le Méal supplied wines with depth and intensity, but that Hermitage grandeur isn’t always present in 2022.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas & St-Péray | Crozes-Hermitage

‘It was a bit more difficult for whites as they don’t like drought,’ says Jean-Louis Chave. In contrast to the reds, the whites are often very concentrated and powerful, sometimes with confit notes like dried pear. It’s not always the most elegant vintage for white Hermitage, but the best are majestic, unmistakably Hermitage, and will be very long-lived.

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Hermitage 2022 key producers:

• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine Laurent Fayolle
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• E Guigal
• M Chapoutier

Hermitage 2022 top value wines:

• Cave de Tain, Hermitage Blanc 2022
• Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières, Hermitage Blanc 2022
• Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage Rouge 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Hermitage 2022 wines:

The wines below scored 92 points and above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related articles:

Walls: Get to know the 20 lieux-dits of Hermitage

Walls: Tasting Hermitage 2001 20 years on

Getting to know white Hermitage

After the disastrous 2021 vintage, 2022 is certainly a step up, though stylistically it couldn’t be more varied.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

At one end of the spectrum, the Crozes-Hermitage wines are thin, dilute and green; at the other, overripe with high alcohol. They tend toward the fuller end of the scale however, often with black fruit flavours and thick, suede tannins. Acidities are low, but so are alcohol levels.

So not a brilliant year, but there are some standout wines that transcend the vintage.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas & St-Péray | Hermitage

The whites are more consistent in both quality and style. It’s an opulent and sometimes heavy vintage, but when the wines have sufficient freshness and acidity to balance out the richness, they can be delicious. Flavours often tend towards mango and pineapple rather than orchard fruit, and I would drink them as young as possible.

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Crozes-Hermitage 2022 key producers:

• David Reynaud
• Domaine Combier
• Domaine Laurent Fayolle
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Yves Cuilleron

Crozes-Hermitage 2022 top value wines:

Domaine Combier, Laurent Combier, Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2022

Domaine Mucyn, Les Entrecoeurs, Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2022

David Reynaud, Beaumont, Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2022

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 90 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related articles:

Crozes-Hermitage 2021: report and top-scoring wines

Rhône producer to know: Domaine Laurent Habrard, Crozes-Hermitage

Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting results

Northern Rhône 2022 overall vintage rating: 4/5

Diverse in style and quality due to intense heat and drought. Blockages in ripening were widespread around Cornas and Hermitage, making for some lighter wines with moderate alcohol; others more robust. Côte-Rôtie tends to be soft and velvety. Whites can be overly rich but some are enjoyably powerful and exuberant.

‘Most will drink young and into the medium term, but the more tannic, structured wines will take a long time to soften, then age for decades’

In both the northern and southern Rhône, the contrast between the 2021 and 2022 vintages couldn’t be stronger. The 2021 vintage saw widespread frosts, then a cool, wet season; in 2022, growers were spared any frost damage, but experienced a hot, dry year.

In the north, there was almost a month’s difference in picking dates between 2021 and 2022: in 2021, Domaine Clape started harvesting its reds on 20 September; in 2022, it was 23 August.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 wines

The drought was less severe compared to the southern Rhône, but it was still extremely parched. Cornas struggled with widespread blockages in ripening due to water stress, and some wines display green, fibrous tannins as a result. Hermitage suffered too, but not to the same degree. Côte-Rôtie was blessed with a little more rain, and it shows in the style of the wines; softer, more velvety, if sometimes lacking acidity.

Stéphane Ogier, of his eponymous domaine, notes that ripening issues were more common with younger vines, and stressed the importance of fermenting with stems in 2022, which contributes structure and freshness and reduces alcohol levels.

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Both bunches and berries were reduced in size in 2022 – Loïc Jamet at Domaine JP Jamet says that in some bunches ‘some grapes didn’t even touch each other, they were so small’. That’s good for aerating the grapes, reducing the likelihood of disease, but bad for overall yields.

The lack of water meant that even the vines themselves were stunted, often reaching little more than shoulder height, compared to the often lofty canopies which reach above head height. This meant limited photosynthesis, which was one reason why the wines have modest alcohol levels this year – typically 12.5% to 13.5% for reds, 13% to 14% for whites.

The hot, dry weather made for a relatively hassle-free year in the vineyard. Jamet says ‘it was quite an easy year for us, there wasn’t much need to scissor the vines [to control the canopy], and no rot’.

Pierre Rostaing of Domaine Rostaing says that there was little grass to cut between the vines. ‘But it was hard to watch the vines suffer,’ he says, with many vines, particularly younger ones, not surviving the summer.

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022: full report and top-scoring wines

Due to the disparity of style throughout the region this year, it’s hard to generalise about ageability; most will drink young and into the medium term, but the more tannic, structured wines will take a long time to soften, then age for decades. Consulting drinking windows is advisable.

There was much optimism among growers about vines acclimatising to hot, dry summers. Clément Bärtschi, winemaker and cellar master at M Chapoutier, adds that ‘growers have also adapted’ in the way they work: leaving more leaf shadow on the grapes, pressing more gently, reducing new oak, spraying wet clay on grapes to slow down ripening, picking whites earlier and seeking more generous yields.

And unlike 2003, ‘no-one planned to be on the coast in mid-August,’ says Bärtschi. This time growers were ready to react. The result is a better vintage than 2003, and although very mixed in style and quality, there are plenty of wines worth seeking out.

Northern Rhône 2022 red wine of the vintage

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage

Northern Rhône 2022 white wine of the vintage

M Chapoutier, Le Méal, Hermitage

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas & St-Péray | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Top 10 northern Rhône producers

• Domaine Clape
• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine JP Jamet
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Domaine Rostaing
• E Guigal
• Franck Balthazar
• M Chapoutier
• Pierre Jean Villa
• Stéphane Ogier

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 96 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The north
• Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting results
• Walls: top northern Rhône reds under £30

Rasteau

Outside Châteauneuf, the best performing appellation was Rasteau. There were no problems with green tannins here, which Jérôme Bressy of Domaine Gourt de Mautens believes is thanks to the abundance of clay. The 2022 vintage has delivered wines with bright fruit, good concentration and balanced alcohol. They are often robustly tannic however, so pay close attention to drinking windows.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score for top Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Cairanne

There are many good Cairannes as well, which are also more tannic than a typical year. Marcel Richaud reported low yields and grapes with very thick skins.

Most are juicy rather than deep in style, occasionally with subtle herbal nuances, either from use of whole bunches or from blockages in ripening. Cairanne whites are decent if less inspiring than the reds in 2022, and will be best drunk young.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Lirac & Tavel

Vinsobres

Vinsobres largely failed to live up to its potential this year. Wines tend to be either overly soft and alcoholic, or brandish thuggish tannins. There were a few exceptions that managed to find a balance.

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2022 key producers:

• Domaine des Escaravailles, Rasteau
• Domaine Elodie Balme, Rasteau
• Domaine Clos Romane, Cairanne
• Domaine Richaud, Cairanne
• Famille Perrin, Vinsobres

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2022 top value wines:

• Domaine Clos Romane, Cairanne Rouge 2022
• Domaine Fond Croze, Rasteau 2022
• Domaine La Collière, Esprit d’Argiles, Rasteau 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2022 wines:

See below the top-scoring Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres wines, listed by appellation and white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: Rasteau 2020 in bottle
• Behind Rasteau’s renaissance plus 10 ‘new look’ bottles to seek out
• Regional profile: Cairanne

Lirac

On top of drought and intense heat in 2022, the west bank of the Rhône also had to deal with hail, which caused localised damage.

The reds in Lirac are very concentrated this year, sometimes overripe or sternly tannic. The whites and rosés based on Clairette tend to be the most vibrant.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score for top Lirac & Tavel 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Tavel

It’s not a terribly fresh year for Tavel either, but standards are improving here, with a new generation producing increasing numbers of wines with character and personality.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Lirac & Tavel 2022 key producers:

• Château de Manissy, Tavel
• Domaine des Carabiniers, Tavel
• Domaine Lafond, Tavel
• Château de Montfaucon, Lirac
• Domaine de Castel Oualou, Lirac

Lirac & Tavel 2022 top value wines:

• Rocca Maura, Lirac Blanc 2022
• Château de Manissy, Langoustière, Tavel 2022
• Prieuré de Montézargues, Tavel 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Lirac & Tavel 2022 wines:

See below all of the Tavel and Lirac wines from the 2022 en primeur report.

Related articles

• Walls: Tavel and its unexpected revolution
• Guigal acquires Tavel rosé estate Château d’Aqueria
• Walls: Tasting Château de Montfaucon – ‘Lirac’s finest wines’

Gigondas

The picture is more mixed in Gigondas than in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with more instances of unripe tannin due to higher crop loads or picking too early.

The successful wines have impact, freshness and low alcohol, even if they aren’t always terribly deep or long in flavour. The best however are excellent, and I share the opinion of Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme that these will age with interest.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score for top Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Vacqueyras

Vacqueyras was more consistent, with fewer problems with phenolic ripeness. Frédéri Férigoule of Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux stressed the importance of green harvesting in 2022: ‘We had a good crop load, but it was too much to ripen,’ he says.

Vacqueyras reds are broadly juicy and well balanced this year with refreshingly moderate alcohol. Some are drinking well already, but other more tannic examples will benefit from a few years to soften up. The whites are rich and tropical, often with high alcohol.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres | Lirac & Tavel

Beaumes de Venise

Beaumes de Venise reds were also mixed, with some monstrously tannic wines which will likely never come round. But overall it was a good vintage here – wines with intensity and vibrancy. The sweet Muscats however tend towards heaviness.

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Key Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise producers in 2022

• Château de St Cosme, Gigondas
• Domaine des Bosquets, Gigondas
• Domaine Santa Duc, Gigondas
• Domaine la Ligière, Beaumes de Venise
• Domaine Montirius, Vacqueyras

Best value Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise wines in 2022

• Domaine de Piéblanc, Les Terres, Gigondas 2022
• Château Bois d’Arlène, Re.Né.Sens, Vacqueyras Rouge 2022
• Domaine la Ligière, Les Garennes, Beaumes de Venise Rouge 2022
  

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 92 points or above, and are listed in order of Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise, white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Gigondas to produce white wines
• Walls: Celebrating 50 years of Gigondas
• Walls: Vacqueyras 2015 vs 2016 – how are they drinking now?

Antoine Daumen of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne was unsure about the season as it progressed. ‘We were cautious to begin with, we had low expectations,’ he says, ‘but the old vines were still very healthy at the end despite the dryness.’ He was pleased with the domaine’s wines in 2022 – they have silky tannins, moderate alcohol and good acidity.

Châteauneuf rode out the challenges of 2022 better than any other appellation this year, and unpleasantly green tannins are relatively rare.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 wines

‘The lower the yield, the easier it is for the vine to adapt,’ says Antoine’s father Jean-Paul Daumen. They averaged 22hl/ha (the authorised maximum is 35hl/ha).

It was the same figure at Château de Beaucastel, where César Perrin agrees on the importance of old vines. ‘Our job with global warming is to keep the old vineyards,’ he says, and thinks there are two styles of wine this year: juicy wines from young vines for drinking within five years, and more powerful wines from old vines for drinking after 15. He compares 2022 to 2005 – a good but tannic year that took a long time to come round.

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

All the growers I spoke to agreed on the importance of the rain that fell throughout the region on 14 August, which helped to swell the berries with juice and unlock some vines whose ripening had stalled. For many, it saved the vintage.

For certain producers to the far east of the appellation, however, the storm had the opposite effect. Nicolas Brunier of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe clearly remembers that day. ‘We got a call saying there’s a storm coming,’ he recalls. But here instead of rain it brought hail. ‘Thirty minutes later and there’s nothing left… no more leaves, no more grapes, nothing – a catastrophe.’

It’s the first year in the domaine’s history that no red or white Vieux Télégraphe was made. There is some weather that even old vines can’t withstand.

See the Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Key Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers in 2022

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château Rayas
• Domaine de Cristia
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine de la Mordorée

Best value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines in 2022

• Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2022
• Château Mont-Thabor, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2022
• Clos du Calvaire, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2022
  

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Individual appellation analysis on:

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres | Lirac & Tavel

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 95 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Walls: 26 value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try
• Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 & 2009: panel tasting results
• Expert’s Choice: White Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Southern Rhône 2022 overall vintage rating: 4/5

Extreme weather conditions produced reds that range from light and juicy to dense and powerful. Blockages in ripening caused by heat and drought made for moderate alcohol levels, but sometimes tough tannins. Whites can lack freshness. Some excellent, ageworthy Châteauneuf-du-Papes; also good in Rasteau.

‘Hot, dry vintages tend to favour red wines and 2022 is no exception. In general the style is fairly concentrated and fruity, if not profound’

Budbreak was a little later than an average year in the southern Rhône, yet harvest was early, so the growing season was contracted due to the extraordinary heat and drought.

Flowering went well, and it was the earliest veraison (when grapes turn from green to red) ever reported.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring southern Rhône 2022 wines

The extreme weather conditions were both a blessing and a curse. Berries were particularly small this year due to the lack of water, meaning a large proportion of skins compared to juice, making for some very tannic wines. This isn’t problematic if the tannins are ripe, but where the hydric stress was more severe, some wines lack depth or taste green and bitter. The hot weather also contributed to low levels of acidity.

One welcome effect of the stop-start ripening, however, was to curb alcohol levels, which are pleasantly low this year. The dry weather at harvest, which started in mid-August for the whites, meant there was no disease pressure in the vineyards and producers could wait for the right moment to pick.

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Hot, dry vintages tend to favour red wines and 2022 is no exception. Grenache fared well, particularly old vines grown on water-retaining clay, whose roots had better access to water reserves. Mourvèdre is very dense and tannic this year, providing resonance and ageing potential. Syrah struggled in the heat.

The whites can lack elegance and freshness, but certain producers with old vines in the best terroirs made some very impressive wines, in a broad, generous, Provençal style. It was often the Clairette-based blends that stood out for their freshness over the richer Roussanne.

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: full report and top-scoring wines

Individual appellation analysis:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres | Lirac & Tavel

Because some vines suffered blockages and others didn’t, it’s hard to summarise the style of the 2022s in the southern Rhône, but in general it’s fairly concentrated and fruity, if not profound.

Châteauneuf performed the best, while the more brutally tannic, overripe or overly alcoholic wines were found elsewhere. It’s a better vintage than I expected, and there are many good wines to buy, some of which will age well. There are also plenty of wines to swerve.

Southern Rhône 2022 red wine of the vintage

Domaine de Cristia, Chapelle Saint Théodoric La Guigasse, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Southern Rhône 2022 white wine of the vintage

Domaine de la Solitude, Vin de la Solitude, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Top 10 southern Rhône producers in 2022

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château de St Cosme
• Château Rayas
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Domaine de Cristia
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine de la Mordorée
• Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
• Le Clos du Caillou

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022 wines:

A selection of 30 southern Rhône wines which scored 95 points or above, listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The south
• Get to know Southern Rhône: Good, better, best
• Southern Rhône white wines: how do they compare?

Rhône 2022 en primeur vintage rating:

Northern Rhône: 4 /5

Diverse in style and quality due to intense heat and drought. Blockages in ripening were widespread around Cornas and Hermitage, making for some lighter wines with moderate alcohol; others more robust. Côte-Rôtie tends to be soft and velvety. Whites can be overly rich but some are enjoyably powerful and exuberant

Southern Rhône: 4 /5

Extreme weather conditions produced reds that range from light and juicy to dense and powerful. Blockages in ripening caused by heat and drought made for moderate alcohol levels, but sometimes tough tannins. Whites can lack freshness. Some excellent, ageworthy Châteauneuf-du-Papes; also good in Rasteau.

‘Never before has a vintage so confounded my expectations’

While preparing for my three-week visit to taste the 2022 vintage in the Rhône, I read that the region experienced the hottest and driest growing season since 1950. Even hotter and drier than 2003 – a vintage burned into the memory of local winemakers. So I approached the tastings with a degree of trepidation. Extreme conditions rarely make for balanced wines.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring Rhône 2022 wines

But as I started to work my way through them, a very different picture began to emerge. Rather than boozy behemoths, what I often found were middle-weight wines with just-ripe berry fruits and moderate alcohol levels. Some were lean, even, with green, unripe tannins. Never before has a vintage so confounded my expectations.

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

The drought started early in the year, and barely let up until harvest. Between 15 October 2021 and 1 September 2022, it rained just 300mm in the southern Rhône, compared to an average of 600mm. Combined with the intense heat (it was the hottest May on record) many vines simply shut down and stopped growing in order to conserve water.

Some winemakers I spoke to, such as Jean-Paul Daumen of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne and Jean-Louis Chave, believe this is evidence of vines adapting to an increasingly extreme climate. Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme describes these blockages due to hydric stress as the vine’s ‘security mode’. He says that ‘in 2003, the vines kept growing when they should have shut down… what we have [in 2022] is very different.’ To many, it gives hope for the future.

Rhône 2022 red wine of the vintage:

Domaine de Cristia, Chapelle Saint Théodoric La Guigasse, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2022

Rhône 2022 white wine of the vintage:

M Chapoutier, Le Méal, Hermitage, Rhône, France 2022

Although the whole of the Rhône Valley experienced similar weather conditions, this effect isn’t uniform. It’s slightly more common in the north than in the south. As well as this leaner style of red, there are others that feel jammy and alcoholic, and you can find both styles side by side all over the region. It makes generalising about appellations and even producers difficult. So although there are some great wines, 2022 is too variable to be described as a great vintage, but it’s largely a good one.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the standout appellation, thanks to its wealth of old vine Grenache with deep root systems. But the northern Rhône was marginally more consistent in quality. In both north and south, the greatest terroirs really proved their worth.

Northern Rhône 2022: full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022: full report and top-scoring wines

Lovers of white Rhône were spoiled in 2020 and 2021, but the wines in 2022 don’t have the same freshness or acidity. There are some very good whites for those seeking richness and power, but generally speaking, this is a vintage for reds.

It’s hard to predict exactly what style of wine you’ll get from a 2022 Rhône without opening a bottle or reading a review. It might be underripe, it might be overripe. It might walk the line between the two and be utterly delicious. It’s certainly better than 2003. And if the weather continues to be chaotic, it may well be a vision of vintages to come.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas & St-Péray | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres | Lirac & Tavel

Rhône 2022 score tables:

All top Rhône 2022 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2022

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2022 

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 red wines

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 white wines

Key Rhône producers in 2022:

Top 10 northern Rhône producers

• Domaine Clape
• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine JP Jamet
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Domaine Rostaing
• E Guigal
• Franck Balthazar
• M Chapoutier
• Pierre Jean Villa
• Stéphane Ogier

Top 10 southern Rhône producers

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château de St Cosme
• Château Rayas
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Domaine de Cristia
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine de la Mordorée
• Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
• Le Clos du Caillou

Top-scoring Rhône 2022 wines

See below the 30 highest scoring wines, listed white then red in score order.

Related articles

• Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The north
• Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The south
• Walls: Best Rhône wine lists in the UK

If you’re looking for punchy, muscular Grenache, look no further than Rasteau. It’s a wild terroir with an abiding heat haze that only rarely struggles to ripen its crop.

A series of scorching vintages in the southern Rhône however have occasionally pushed some wines from handsomely well-built to something you’d see on the cover of Iron Man magazine.

That’s no bad thing if you’re looking for wines that are shredded, jacked or swole. But if you’re looking for balanced, drinkable bottles that are versatile with food – not so much.

Thankfully the 2020 vintage manages to find a sweet spot between ripeness and freshness, intensity and approachability – making it one of the most appealing vintages here in recent times.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 38 Rasteau 2020 wines

Growing season

After a wet winter, the 2020 growing season got off to a very early start. Spring was mild with regular showers, so growers had to be reactive. Aside from that, ‘2020 was a fairly easy year,’ says Vasco Perdigao of Domaine Chamfort, ‘even if “easy” years don’t really exist!’

The summer was very hot with the occasional rain shower, but cool nights helped to give the vines some respite. Madeline Ferran of Domaine des Escaravailles remembers ‘an ideal vintage, as much in the vineyard as the cellar.’

‘Despite a complicated year due to Covid, nature spoiled us,’ she says. ‘In 2020, the wines made themselves, the picking programme was very smooth with no rain, which is very rare for us. We finished harvesting with the autumn equinox storms of 24 September.’

Isabelle Roux of Domaine Notre Dame des Pallières says that a light touch in the cellar was the key to success, ‘with light extractions in order to preserve this fruit, this freshness and this finesse which brings us so much happiness when tasting them today,’ she says.

Read about Rasteau’s renaissance here

The style of the wines

The style of 2020 Rasteau is very different to the vintages either side. The 2019 vintage will be remembered for its record-breaking temperatures, and the style of the wines is one of density and chiselled tannins.

The 2021 vintage, on the other hand, was at the other end of the scale – a fragile, late-maturing crop due to devastating April frosts and a cool spring. The wines are unusually lean in 2021, often lacking Rasteau’s characteristic sweet ripeness and generosity of fruit, and frequently showing a mean green streak.

The style of the 2020s however sits comfortably between these two extremes. Frédéric Coulon of Domaine de Beaurenard says that ‘2020 is a beautiful vintage that we like a lot in the family, because it has good ripeness, good balance with sufficient acidity, fine tannins, good length and a beautiful aromatic expression.’

After tasting over 40 wines from the 2020 vintage, I can’t help but agree. I would add that 2020 Rasteau is also particularly well balanced in terms of its alcohol levels, which were lower than in 2019 and 2018.

Matt Walls’ Rasteau en primeur reports: 2021 | 2020 | 2019

Ageing potential

The 2020s are delicious already, and all but some of the more tannic wines can be opened straight away. Sometimes this can denote a less ageworthy vintage, but thanks to the balance, freshness and energy of the 2020s, I believe they will have a long life too.

Frédéric Roméro of Domaine la Soumade predicts his 2020s will last 8-15 years, particularly for his old vine cuvées. I’m sure he’s right, and I suspect some wines might last even longer.

The 2019s will benefit from a few more years in bottle due to their robust tannic frames, and if anything will live even longer than the 2020s. But in terms of sheer drinkability and charm, the 2020 vintage is superior.

Quality and value

Five of the wines can be found at retail in the UK for under £20 per bottle, and only a few break the £30 mark. For authentic wines of place, most of which have some level of sustainability certification, this feels like very good value indeed.

Notable good value wines include Domaine des Escaravailles’ La Ponce, Domaine M Boutin’s MB, Domaine Chamfort’s La Planne, Domaine Notre Dame des Pallières’ Les Ribes and Domaine de la Soumade’s classic Rasteau cuvée.

Rasteau tends to sit somewhat in the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, but in vintages like 2020 it shows why it was promoted to appellation status. If you’re not yet familiar with the appellation, this is the vintage to put that right.

38 Rasteau 2020 wines:

Related articles

• Walls: Côte-Rôtie 2019 in bottle
• Behind Rasteau’s renaissance plus 10 ‘new look’ bottles to seek out
• Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2020: report and top-scoring wines
• Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2019: Report and top scoring wines

Which offers more pleasure: a wine from a great vintage, but too young, inexpressive and closed? Or a wine from a modest vintage that’s mature, aromatically open and ready to drink? Surely there’s no contest.

When it comes to enjoying the greatest Rhône wines, identifying the best vintages is the easy part. Knowing when best to open them is more difficult – but arguably more important.

Here are four vintages that will benefit from further ageing, and four that you should consider drinking up.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for four Rhône wines to lay down and four to drink now

Four to lay down: 2015, 2013, 2010, 2005

Four to drink up: 2014, 2011, 2008, 2004

Four vintages to lay down

2015

Indisputably a great vintage for northern Rhône reds, but while most 2015 Crozes-Hermitage and some St-Josephs are ready to go, wines from the best terroirs still have many years before they reach their full potential. I would wait another couple of years for top St-Joseph, Cornas and entry-level Côte-Rôtie, and until the mid-2030s for top Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.

This is a very good vintage in the southern Rhône: ripe and sunny, and the wines are quicker to mature. Vacqueyras is largely drinking well, but some will benefit from another year or two before they reach peak drinking. The best wines of Gigondas and Châteauneuf will only start hitting their stride from 2028.

2013

A disappointing vintage across much of France, but the northern Rhône fared relatively well. The year got off to a slow start due to a cool, wet spring which made for an extended growing season and a late harvest. The resulting reds often have forthright acidity and robust tannins that need time to soften.

A tasting last year with Jean-Louis Chave of his 2012, 2013 and 2014 Hermitage demonstrated just how far behind 2013 is compared to the vintages on either side.

The southern Rhône endured a similar growing season, but the wines need even longer to soften: the cool spring led to severe coulure in the Grenache, so blends tend to feature atypical quantities of Syrah and Mourvèdre, further bolstering their rugged frames.

Though many wines are beginning to enter their drinking windows, most need longer than they might in an average year, so you’d be wise to leave your Gigondas, Châteauneuf, Hermitage and top Côte-Rôtie for a few more years before opening.

2010

There wasn’t a huge crop in 2010, but quality throughout the Rhône, both north and south, was outstanding. After 13 years, you’d hope that these would be ready to drink by now, but I’m continually surprised at how long these wines are taking to come round.

Reds from the southern Rhône are beginning to open up, including many Châteauneufs, but most 2010s I’ve encountered recently will continue to improve for a long time yet.

If you enjoy wines with plenty of primary fruit and dramatic tannins, you might want to start opening them now as their complexity begins to develop. But I’d advise waiting another two or three years for most top southern Rhônes, and at least the same if not a little longer for top northern Rhônes. I won’t be opening any 2010 Hermitage until 2030.

2005

Like 2013, the 2005 growing season took its time to warm up. What followed was a very hot, dry summer, making for powerful, driving, structured wines that are proving remarkably unhurried.

Though most southern Rhônes have now comfortably entered their drinking windows, I’m still encountering wines today that would benefit from more time in bottle, such as Clos des Papes and Moulin de la Gardette’s Ventabren.

Even the most stubborn northern Rhônes are beginning to open up now, but for those who enjoy the unique flavours and textures of old wines, 2005 is a vintage you can confidently keep in the cellar for many years to come.

Four vintages to drink now

2014

A fairly recent vintage, but one that’s drinking well already. The year got off to a promising start, but then the season was hampered by a wet summer, then rain again at harvest. It produced a lighter style of red. Less promising terroirs delivered reds that were lean and green, but superior sites turned out wines with finesse and refreshing drinkability.

In the south, Gigondas fared well (for producers such as Moulin de la Gardette, Domaine Les Semelles de Vent, and Mas des Restanques); some Châteauneufs were also very good (from Clos des Papes, Rotem & Mounir Saouma, and Henri Bonneau). In the north, Cornas fared well, with Guillaume Gilles, Matthieu Barret and Alain Voge all making very fine examples.

Red wines are lighter in 2014, but it’s an exceptional year for whites. No hurry to drink the more ageworthy styles; Jean-Louis Chave’s white Hermitage should drink well until 2060 and beyond.

2011

A reasonable vintage in the southern Rhône, but one without any great structure or focus, so this is a good candidate to pull from the cellar if you have any.

It was better in the north, the damp, cool summer making for wines with energy and precision rather than concentration. Cornas, Hermitage and top Côte-Rôtie are largely drinking well now, and the best should continue to do so for the next five to 10 years.

2008

A notoriously difficult vintage throughout the Rhône Valley, cool and wet in both the north and south, with damp conditions during harvest. Reds lack ripeness and depth, and most were best drunk young – few will have gained much interest with age. If you have any left, drink up.

No vintage is without its successes however, so keep an open mind. If a wine shows poorly on opening, try decanting for an hour or two before you give up all hope. Recent 2008s that have impressed are Domaine Gonon’s neat and drinkable St-Joseph and Domaine de la Janasse’s deliciously complex Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes.

2004

A vintage that delivered a crop of enjoyably crisp and precise reds in both the northern and southern Rhône, but not always the most ripe or generous – as with 2014, some lacked depth and power. If you have any left in your collection, now is the time to pull the corks.

The situation is different for white wines, however – 2004 is a great year for whites throughout the Rhône. The best Châteauneuf and white Hermitage will continue to offer beautiful drinking and great complexity for many years to come.

To lay down or drink up?

The wines below are listed by their vintage, in the same order as above.

Related content

Rhône trends to look out for in 2023

Matt Walls: my top wines of 2022

Rhône 2021: best value wines

Severe frost in early April wreaked havoc across both the northern and southern appellations of the Rhône Valley in 2021, with many producers losing a large majority of their crop.

The reds that did materialise tend towards lean, green flavours, because grapes struggled to ripen. A few producers struck lucky, with late-budding varieties or pockets of vineyard less affected by frost.

But overall, it is the whites that really shine, showing freshness, precision and longevity.

St-Joseph, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise offer particularly good value this year.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Matt Walls’ best value Rhône 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Rhône 2021: best value wines at a glance

Northern Rhone

Domaine Garon, Blanc, St-Joseph

M Chapoutier, Haut Chamblard, St-Péray

Domaine François Merlin, Rouge, St-Joseph

Domaine Guy Farge, Harmonie, Cornas

Domaine Lionel Faury, La Gloriette Rouge, St-Joseph

Southern Rhône

Domaine A Berthet-Rayne, Castel Mireio Blanc, Cairanne

Domaine la Ligière, Chemin Blanc, Vacqueyras

Château Redortier, Rouge, Beaumes de Venise

Domaine des Bernardins, Rouge, Beaumes de Venise

Le Clos de Caveau, Fruit Sauvage Rouge, Vacqueyras

See also:

Northern Rhône 2021 full report and top-scoring wines

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas and St-Péray | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

See also:

Southern Rhône 2021 full report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres | Lirac and Tavel

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Rhône 2021: best value wines by appellation:

Below is a list of some of the best value wines within their appellation.

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu

Benjamin & David Duclaux, La Chana, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine François Merlin, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine Garon, Les Triotes, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine Garon, La Vieille Maison, Condrieu

Domaine Niero, Chérytage, Condrieu

Domaine Niero, Coeur de Roncharde, Condrieu

Cornas and St-Péray

Domaine Bernard Gripa, Les Figuiers, St-Péray

Domaine Guy Farge, Grain de Silex, St-Péray

Delas, Chante Perdrix, Cornas

Domaine A&E Verset, Signature Verset, Cornas

Domaine Guy Farge, Harmonie, Cornas

St-Joseph

Domaine Alain Voge, Les Côtes Rouge

Domaine Coursodon, Paradis Saint Pierre Blanc

Domaine François Merlin, Rouge

Domaine Garon, Blanc

Domaine Guy Farge, Vania Blanc

Hermitage

Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles Blanc

Domaine du Colombier, Blanc

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières Blanc

Crozes-Hermitage

Domaine Aléofane, Blanc

Domaine des Combat, Cuvée Domaine Blanc,

Domaine Gaylord Machon, La Fille Dont J’ai Rêvé Blanc

Domaine Marc Sorrel, Blanc

David Reynaud, Beaumont Rouge

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Château Sixtine, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Clos du Mont-Olivet, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Clos St Michel, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Clos St Michel, Tradition Biologique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Domaine de la Solitude, Tradition Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Domaine du Grand Tinel, Les Roussannes de Charles, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise

Château Redortier, Rouge, Beaumes de Venise

Clos de Caveau, Fruit Sauvage Rouge, Vacqueyras,

Domaine des Bernardins, Rouge, Beaumes de Venise

Domaine du Cayron, Gigondas

Domaine la Ligière, Chemin Blanc, Vacqueyras

Domaine Raspail-Ay, Gigondas

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres

Domaine A Berthet-Rayne, Castel Mireio, Cairanne

Domaine Alary, L’Estévenas, Cairanne

Domaine des Amadieu, La Copado, Rasteau

Domaine Pique-Basse, Rasteau

Famille Perrin, Les Hauts de Julien, Vinsobres

Lirac & Tavel

Domaine Coudoulis, Euphorie, Lirac

Domaine Maby, La Fermade, Lirac

Château d’Aqueria, Tavel

Domaine de la Mordorée, La Reine des Bois, Tavel

Les Vignerons de Tavel, Domaine des Carteresses, Tavel

The best value Rhône 2021 wines to seek out:

Wines listed northern then southern Rhône, by colour and score.

Related content:

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2021: full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2021: full report and top-scoring wines

Clément Bärtschi, winemaker and cellarmaster at M Chapoutier, saw little frost in St-Joseph in 2021. Nevertheless, the cool, wet season resulted in oscillating quality.

Some wines are excellent, in a fresh, crisp and fragrant style; but the larger proportion lack fruit and joy, with dry, astringent tannins. ‘We’d have called it a lovely vintage – in the 1980s,’ said Jean Gonon of Domaine Gonon.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring St-Joseph 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

The best wines tended to work in harmony with the vintage, accentuating the wines’ natural freshness and tension. Those trying to make rich and powerful styles this year often delivered wines that feel clumsy or unbalanced – galumphing new oak for example can smudge the delicate details that give the 2021s their appeal.

See also – individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | Crozes-Hermitage | Cornas and St-Péray | Hermitage

With St-Joseph whites, however, it’s hard to go wrong. It’s a vibrant and zesty style of vintage, and although most will be at their best when young, the top wines should age with interest too. Marsanne and Roussanne both gave good results this year.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

St-Joseph 2021 key producers:

Domaine Alain Voge

Domaine Bernard Gripa

Domaine François Merlin

Domaine Garon

M Chapoutier

St-Joseph 2021 top value wines:

Domaine Alain Voge, Les Côtes Rouge

Domaine Coursodon, Paradis Saint Pierre Blanc

Domaine François Merlin, Rouge

Domaine Garon, Blanc

Domaine Guy Farge, Vania Blanc

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Matt Walls’ top-scoring St-Joseph 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 93 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related content

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Walls: Discovering St-Joseph estate Martine & Christian Rouchier

St-Joseph 2020: report and top-scoring wines

This was the first year that Pierre Clape, of Domaine Clape, had witnessed frost on the slopes of Cornas; from these parcels he lost 40% of his crop.

On the flat, however, it was much worse – here he lost 90%. Like almost everybody else, he had to raise alcohol levels – here by adding concentrated must – to achieve 12% alcohol. The last time they had to do this was in 2008.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Olivier Clape pointed out the climatic similarity between 2008 and 2021; a wet summer, and heavy rains in September. Thankfully they’ll make better wines this time round: in 2008 they picked after the rain, in 2021 they harvested the day before. Not all their neighbours were so lucky.

A handful of wines I tasted did suffer from a lack of ripeness, but largely speaking this is a successful vintage in Cornas in a fresh, crunchy, structured style. Many 2018s and 2019s suffered from the scorching weather, delivering wines that were excessively rich and alcoholic; 2021 is much more classic – with all the commanding tannins that implies.

See also – individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Crozes-Hermitage | Hermitage

St-Péray this year is excellent. I can’t remember a vintage here with such intense freshness, focus and drive. The reason that some wines performed less well was often due to winemaking decisions (overoaking, excessive reduction, or lactic notes) rather than issues in the vineyard. They will age unusually well thanks to their electric acidity.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Cornas & St-Péray 2021 key producers:

M Chapoutier – St-Péray

Domaine Clape – St-Péray

Domaine A&E Verset – Cornas

Domaine Clape – Cornas

Domaine du Coulet – Cornas

Domaine du Tunnel – Cornas

Domaine Johann Michel – Cornas

Domaine Vincent Paris – Cornas

Cornas & St-Péray 2021 top value wines:

Domaine Bernard Gripa, Les Figuiers, St-Péray

Domaine Guy Farge, Grain de Silex, St-Péray

Delas Chante Perdrix, Cornas

Domaine A&E Verset, Signature Verset, Cornas

Domaine Guy Farge, Harmonie, Cornas

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 93 points or above, and are listed in order of St-Péray and Cornas in score order.

Related content

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Cornas to drink now: Matt Walls’ top 20

Cornas 2018 in bottle: full overview plus top-scoring wines

Is frost a bad thing? Yes; but it can have unexpected benefits. It can kill shoots, reducing yields, but it doesn’t necessarily affect quality.

In cooler growing seasons, vines with fewer bunches can find it easier to ripen them. So given the inclement conditions that followed the frost in 2021, optimists might consider it advantageous that the crop load had been lightened.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Low potential alcohol levels meant that growers could wait to pick until the tannins were ripe without worrying about elevated degrees. ‘Otherwise,’ said François Villard, of his eponymous domaine, ‘it would really have been considered a bad vintage.’

Stéphane Ogier, of his eponymous domaine, agreed that it was a year to pick late, despite the risks; rot was widespread. He doesn’t intend to make any single-vineyard bottlings this year.

See also -individual appellation analysis on:

Crozes-Hermitage | St-Joseph | Cornas and St-Péray | Hermitage

Some of those who managed to ripen their crop went on to make some good wines, in an aromatic, mineral style with fairly austere tannins and low alcohol. But there are many other wines that are simply weak. I’ve heard some comparisons with the 2014 vintage, but I would place 2014 above 2021 in quality. Jean-Paul Jamet, of Domaine JP Jamet, and Stéphane Ogier suggested 2004 as stylistically analogous, which feels more accurate.

Condrieu fared better. A relatively cool growing season and plenty of water made for a crop of wines with intensity, good acidity and balanced alcohol. ‘I think it’s a great year for whites,’ says Ogier. His superlative Condrieu Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay proves his point.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2021 key producers:

Domaine François Merlin – Côte-Rôtie

M Chapoutier – Côte-Rôtie

Domaine JP Jamet – Côte-Rôtie

Stéphane Ogier – Condrieu

André Perret – Condrieu

Domaine Niero – Condrieu

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2021 top value wines:

Benjamin & David Duclaux, La Chana, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine François Merlin, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine Garon Les Triotes, Côte-Rôtie

Domaine Garon, La Vieille Maison, Condrieu

Domaine Niero Chérytage, Condrieu

Domaine Niero, Coeur de Roncharde, Condrieu

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 95 points or above, and are listed Condrieu then Côte-Rôtie in score order.

Related content

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Walls: Top-quality and great-value Côte-Rôtie alternatives

Walls: Brune and blonde soils in Côte-Rôtie – do they really make all the difference?

When the northern Rhône faces a difficult vintage, it’s often Crozes-Hermitage that bears the brunt, which was the case in 2021.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Its vineyards are largely flat, which makes water management problematic, leading to serious dilution. Following the heavy storms in mid-September, some producers feared that a sudden uptake of water would cause the grapes’ fine skins to split, leading to rampaging rot.

There was a rush to pick, ripe or not. Some wines are refreshing, and green, herbal characters are a common refrain.

See also – individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas and St-Péray | Hermitage

Whites tend to be better, but they aren’t as consistent as elsewhere. There are some stimulating wines, but many lack concentration and acidity. Smart use of oak helped to build weight and interest, but even the best white Crozes this year should be drunk within the next couple of years.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Crozes-Hermitage 2021 key producers:

Domaine Aléofane

Domaine des Combat

Domaine Gaylord Machon

Domaine Laurent Habrard

Domaine Marc Sorrel

Crozes-Hermitage 2021 top value wines:

Domaine Aléofane, Blanc

Domaine des Combat, Cuvée Domaine Blanc,

Domaine Gaylord Machon, La Fille Dont J’ai Rêvé Blanc

Domaine Marc Sorrel, Blanc

David Reynaud, Beaumont Rouge

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 89 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related content:

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2021: full report and top-scoring wines

Crozes-Hermitage 2020: report and top-scoring wines

Hermitage was mercifully spared by the frost in 2021, however with elevated rainfall dilution was still a major issue.

‘It was the great terroirs that made good wines in 2021,’ said Jean-Louis Chave of Domaine JL Chave, ‘you needed slopes and old vines.’ This helped to avoid dilution, because rain runs off the slopes.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Hermitage 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Some of the best terroirs did produce very good wines in 2021, particularly the granite lieux-dits, in a tense, athletic style. But these are the exceptions; generally speaking, this is a mediocre vintage for Hermitage at best – too many wines lack the might and majesty that sets Hermitage apart.

Individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas and St-Péray | Crozes-Hermitage

White Hermitage is another story. This is a brisk, medium-bodied vintage for white Hermitage, not as concentrated or powerful as 2019 and 2020, but one that will drink well young and age into the medium term at least, thanks to its energetic acidity and sustaining minerality.

Clément Bärtschi, cellarmaster at M Chapoutier, described it as resembling something between 2014 and 2001 in style – high praise.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Hermitage 2021 key producers:

M Chapoutier

Domaine JL Chave

Domaine Marc Sorrel

Hermitage 2021 top value wines:

Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles Blanc

Domaine du Colombier, Blanc

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières Blanc

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Hermitage 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 93 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related content:

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2021: full report and top-scoring wines

Walls: Get to know the 20 lieux-dits of Hermitage

It was difficult to find many Liracs to recommend this year; they seemed to be hit particularly hard by the challenges of 2021, producing wines with thin red fruit and coarse tannins.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score for top Lirac and Tavel 2021 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Ambre Delorme at Domaine de la Mordorée described it as a very difficult vintage. She decided to pick before the storm of September 15, and was glad that she did; some of her neighbours who waited ended up abandoning their harvest altogether.

It’s a classically-styled vintage for Lirac whites, however, which were fresh and well-balanced. It’s good to see such diversity with grape varieties and blends, and this year the characteristically straight Lirac style shines through with clarity.

Tavel produced a crop of powerful and well-balanced rosés that should age well thanks to their intensity and acidity.

See also – individual appellation analysis on:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Lirac and Tavel 2021 key producers:

Château de Montfaucon – Lirac

Domaine de la Mordorée – Lirac

Domaine Maby – Lirac

Château d’Aqueria – Tavel

Domaine de la Mordorée – Tavel

Les Vignerons de Tavel – Tavel

Lirac and Tavel 2021 top value wines:

Domaine Coudoulis, Euphorie, Lirac

Domaine Maby, La Fermade, Lirac

Château d’Aqueria, Tavel

Domaine de la Mordorée, La Reine des Bois, Tavel

Les Vignerons de Tavel, Domaine des Carteresses, Tavel

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Lirac and Tavel 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 90 points or above, and are listed in order of appellation, white then red in score order.

Related content

Rhône 2021 en primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2021: full report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021: report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2021 overall vintage rating: 2/5

Fresh, bright, intense white wines throughout the region. A hard frost reduced yields and produced a fragile harvest for reds. Quality is mixed; many wines lack ripeness, but there are some very good wines in a lean, fresh style with relatively low alcohols.

‘In this chaotic, unpredictable and atypical vintage, buying by appellation, or even producer, isn’t a reliable strategy.’

Southern Rhône 2021 red wine of the vintage

Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Southern Rhône 2021 white wine of the vintage

Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Though Châteauneuf-du-Pape wasn’t the worst hit, many producers, such as Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes, suffered reduced yields due to the frost. Temperatures dropped to -4 ̊ C here, but ‘what was mad is that it was 19 ̊C that afternoon,’ he said, ‘and 25 ̊C less than a week earlier.’ No wonder the vines were shocked.

Some plants that were frosted eventually produced secondary shoots, which produced welcome but limited amounts of fruit. The quality, however, is rarely as high, and it was a more common phenomenon with young vines rather than old.

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 wines

After the frost, the season was clement enough: warm, and dry but not parched. But storms during harvest caused havoc – 100mm of rain fell on 15 September. This led to localised rot, not to mention dilution. It’s a miracle anyone made good wines. And yet some did.

Most agreed it was the Syrah that was worst hit by the frost. Late-budding Mourvèdre fared much better, as did Carignan and Cinsault. The overall effect was a delicate harvest. Philippe Faraud of Mas des Restanques says ‘the grapes had very thin skins, so people were afraid of rot… and many picked too early.’ Those who did were blighted with green tannins and weak fruit.

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

For growers who managed to successfully ripen their crop, the typical style of 2021 remains marked by a certain austerity. It’s a vintage without great generosity or richness, with fruit flavours often more towards red berries rather than black. Acidities are high, alcohols are low, and tannins are often strict and rigid.

It’s not easy to draw comparisons with other vintages. Serge Férigoule of Le Sang des Cailloux suggested 2014, 2008 or 2004. Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme also referenced 2008. Jean-Paul Daumen of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne said ‘I can’t compare it to any other vintage – it’s like a UFO.’

See also: Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

See also – individual appellation analysis on:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres | Lirac and Tavel

In the same vein as 2014 and 2004, 2021 is a vintage with one particular strength: outstanding whites. White varieties weren’t hit as severely by the frost, and they don’t have tannins to ripen. They share the traits of high acidity and low alcohol with the reds this year, giving them a zestiness and precision that makes them beautifully vibrant. Don’t miss them.

Although whites were consistently strong across the southern Rhône, reds were clearly at their best in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are some unexpectedly successful wines, but they’ll need time for the tannins to relax. Higher altitude sites in Gigondas, Vinsobres and Beaumes de Venise often fared relatively well. Lirac and Vacqueyras were less successful.

But in this chaotic, unpredictable and atypical vintage, buying by appellation, or even producer, isn’t a reliable strategy. This year it was often a combination of experienced hands, excellent terroir and a lucky roll of the dice that produced the goods.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

Top 10 southern Rhône producers

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château de Montfaucon
• Clos de Caveau
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine Benedetti
• Domaine de Cristia, Chapelle Saint Théodoric
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine des Bosquets
• Domaine Gramenon
• Domaine Raymond Usseglio

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 95 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related content

Walls: top northern Rhône whites under £30

Behind Rasteau’s renaissance plus 10 ‘new look’ bottles to seek out

Rhône 2020 En Primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape wasn’t hit as hard as some appellations, thanks in part to its proximity to the Rhône river, and its openness to the mistral wind. Nevertheless, volumes are down by about 20%.

In some ways this feels like an old-fashioned vintage; measured alcohol, good acidity, strict tannins, and – when sufficiently ripe – this can make for an enjoyably fresh and balanced style.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 wines

Not all grapes reached full ripeness, however, resulting in many wines that are weak and dilute, with astringent tannins being a common theme.

It’s a highly heterogeneous vintage, and even some dependable producers suffered this year.

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

See the Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Wines with a high proportion of Mourvèdre are often among the best. Pure Grenache cuvées are also worth considering, thanks to the lower alcohol, higher acidity and firm tannins that this vintage provides – elements that pure Grenache from here can sometimes lack.

While the reds lack consistency, the opposite is true of the whites – even inexpensive tradition cuvées are largely very good this year, and some of the cuvées spéciales are stunning.

They aren’t as concentrated and rich as the 2019s, instead they are fresh and zesty, more medium-bodied, with great aromatic definition and freshness. The whites will drink well now and age well too.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

See also – individual appellation analysis on:

Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres | Lirac and Tavel

Châteauneuf 2021 key producers:

Château de Vaudieu

Domaine de Beaurenard

Château de Beaucastel

Domaine de la Janasse

Domaine de la Solitude

Châteauneuf 2021 top value wines:

Château Sixtine, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Clos du Mont-Olivet, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Clos St Michel, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Clos St Michel, Tradition Biologique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Domaine de la Solitude, Tradition Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Domaine du Grand, Tinel Les Roussannes de Charles, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Back to the Rhône 2021 homepage

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 96 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related content

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020: report and top-scoring wines

Rhône 2021 full vintage report and top scoring wines

Walls: the best Rhône wines to buy in the UK right now

Rhône 2021 en primeur vintage rating:

Northern Rhône: 2.5/5

Consistently excellent white wines, but reds very mixed due to severe frost and a mild, rainy season. Some are weak and green, others very good in a fresh and structured style.

Southern Rhône: 2/5

Fresh, bright, intense white wines throughout the region. A hard frost reduced yields and produced a fragile harvest for reds. Quality is mixed; many wines lack ripeness, but there are some very good wines in a lean, fresh style with relatively low alcohols.

‘It’s an exceptional year for white wine in both the southern and northern Rhône. I tasted many red wines that were thin and green this year…But in the darkness, there are glimmers of light’

How do you define a bad vintage? If you’re a grower, you might say it’s a year of poor weather, disease and pests. Low yields too, even if quality is acceptable, means producers will be out of pocket. Wine lovers aren’t quite so concerned about conditions or quantity, however – it’s the quality in the bottle that matters most to us.

From anyone’s point of view therefore, 2021 will not go down as a good vintage. ‘It’s the year you never wish for,’ said Jean Gonon of Domaine Gonon, with a degree of sangfroid, ‘but it happens.’

Rhône 2021 red wine of the vintage:

Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Rhône 2021 white wine of the vintage:

Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Scroll down for Matt Walls’ top-scoring Rhône 2021 wines

It was a growing season beset with difficulties, but they can all be traced back to one day. On the night of the 7 April, temperatures dropped to -7 ̊ C. ‘Even my father never saw a frost this bad,’ said Pierre Rostaing of Domaine Rostaing in Côte-Rôtie, when the last serious frost episode was in 1938. Walking his vineyards the following day, the fresh green shoots were withered black. ‘It was immediately obvious, they looked like they’d been burned.’ He lost 50% of his crop.

All appellations were hit to some extent, but some worse than others. In the southern Rhône, Jacky Bernard, president of the Vacqueyras appellation, said that at least 80% of the appellation was hit by frost, ‘possibly even more.’ He and others witnessed a strange phenomenon throughout the region: some plots were decimated but others alongside were barely touched. Nonetheless, even vines not directly hit by frost seemed stunned by the intense cold.

See all 400 Rhône 2021 tasting notes and scores

For the vines that eventually recovered, it meant a late start to the season, and a struggle to ripen – I tasted many red wines that were thin and green this year. Persistent rain in the northern Rhône contributed to a sense of lightness and dilution. And we haven’t even touched on the rot, disease and hail.

So far so bleak. But in the darkness, there are glimmers of light. Late-budding varieties dodged the cold snap. Certain parcels that were frosted carried lower yields – which helped them reach full ripeness. Against the odds, there is a smattering of excellent wines.

For those who made a success of the vintage – and there were more than I expected – the style is one that many will find appealing. It’s a lean, fresh, structured vintage with refreshingly low alcohol – a counterweight to recent years, such as 2018 and 2019, that might have been too rich and opulent for some tastes.

There is one major strong point of the 2021 vintage: it’s an exceptional year for white wine in both the southern and northern Rhône, one of great freshness, precision and longevity. From Condrieu to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is an unmissable vintage for whites.

There have been other recent vintages, such as 2008 and 2014, whose reds weren’t particularly heralded on release. But today you can pull out certain wines from those tricky vintages that are delightfully fresh, balanced and drinkable. They are the exceptions in those difficult years. What I aim to do in this report is to point you to the wines that – by dint of viticultural proficiency, superlative terroir, or simple luck – will prove the exceptions in 2021.

Rhône 2021 score tables:

All top Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring southern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring northern Rhône 2021 score table

Top-scoring 2021 red wines

Top-scoring 2021 white wines

See also:

Northern Rhône 2021 full report and top-scoring wines

Plus individual appellation analysis on:

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas and St-Péray | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

See also:

Southern Rhône 2021 full report and top-scoring wines

Plus individual appellation analysis on:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres | Lirac and Tavel

Key Rhône producers in 2021:

Top 10 northern Rhône producers

• Domaine A&E Verset
• Domaine Clape
• Domaine du Tunnel
• Domaine François Merlin
• Domaine Garon
• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine JP Jamet
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Domaine Niero
• M Chapoutier

Top 10 southern Rhône producers

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château de Montfaucon
• Clos de Caveau
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine Benedetti
• Domaine de Cristia, Chapelle Saint Théodoric
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine des Bosquets
• Domaine Gramenon
• Domaine Raymond Usseglio

Top-scoring Rhône 2021 wines:

The wines below all scored 96 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Related content

Walls: top northern Rhône whites under £30

Behind Rasteau’s renaissance plus 10 ‘new look’ bottles to seek out

Rhône 2020 En Primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

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Read Rhône correspondent Matt Walls' expert analysis on the Rhône 2021 vintage, plus see 400 wine tasting notes and scores.

NORTHERN & SOUTHERN RHÔNE OVERVIEWS

NORTHERN RHÔNE APPELLATION OVERVIEWS

SOUTHERN RHÔNE APPELLATION OVERVIEWS

SEE ALL RHÔNE 2021 SCORE TABLES:

In his Rhône 2020 vintage report Matt Walls found fresh, vibrant and deliciously drinkable wines across the Northern and Southern appellations, with many wines being approachable now.

Given that many wines won’t last as long as previous vintages such as 2016, 2017 and 2019, this could make the 2020s great value picks for immediate drinking.

Scroll down to see Matt’s best-value Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

Walls noted that this is the freshest vintage for whites since 2014, so lovers of white Rhône should seek out white Vacqueras, which are concentrated and energetic, and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. White Crozes-Hermitage wines have vibrant and zesty aromatics and are particularly good value for money.

Rhône 2020 wines priced under £30 scoring 91+ points:

Cave de Tain, Fleur de Roc, St-Péray 2020 – £22 (based on 2019 prices)

Cave Julien Cécillon, Gemini, St-Péray 2020 – £20

Domaine Bernard Gripa, Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020 – £27.50 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine Faury, Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020 – £24.25 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine Faury, Hedonism Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020 – £23.13 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine Jolivet, L’Instinct Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020 – £23.68

Domaine Gaylord Machon, La Fille Dont J’ai Rêvé Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020 – £24.95 (based on 2019 prices)

La Bastide St-Dominique, Chapelle, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020 – £26.99 (based on 2019 prices)

Château Sixtine, Cuvée du Vatican, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020 – £24

Château des Roques, Cuvée Blanche, Vacqueyras, 2020 – £19.95 (based on 2019 prices)

Château la Croix des Pins, Les Dessous des Dentelles, Gigondas, 2020 – £24 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine des Amadieu, Garrigues, Cairanne, 2020 – £15.95 (based on 2019 prices)

Domaine Lafond, Blanc, Lirac, 2020 – £15.50

Domaine les Carabiniers, Lunar Apogé Beige, Tavel, 2020 – £16.95

Domaine Maby, Prima Donna, Tavel, 2020 – £12.50

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

Best-value Rhône 2020 wines by appellation

Below is Matt Walls’ list of some of the best-value Rhône 2020 wines.

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu

Domaine Christophe Billon, Les Matisses, Condrieu 2020

Domaine Niero, Les Ravines, Condrieu 2020

Domaine Xavier Gérard, Arbuel, Condrieu 2020

Domaine du Monteillet, Fortis, Côte-Rôtie 2020

Domaine Faury, Revinescence, Côte-Rôtie 2020

Domaine Xavier Gérard, Côte-Rôtie 2020

Cornas and St-Péray

Cave de Tain, Fleur de Roc, St-Péray 2020

Cave Julien Cécillon, Gemini, St-Péray 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Montis, St-Péray 2020

Domaine Mucyn, Hypsos, Cornas 2020

Domaine Vincent Paris, Granit 30, Cornas 2020

Dumien-Serrette, Patou, Cornas 2020

St-Joseph

Domaine Bernard Gripa, Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Faury, Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020

Vignobles Chirat, Chays d’Oeuvre Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Faury, Hedonism Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Jolivet, L’Instinct Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Martine & Christian Rouchier, La Chave Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020

Hermitage

Domaine Belle, Blanc, Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières Blanc, Hermitage, 2020

Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux Blanc, Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières, Hermitage, 2020

Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux, Hermitage, 2020

Tardieu-Laurent, Hermitage, 2020

Crozes-Hermitage

Domaine Betton, Circé Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Gaylord Machon, La Fille Dont J’ai Rêvé Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Vendome, Les Pinets Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine de la Ville Rouge, Inspiration, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Sens, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Melody, Friandise, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Château de la Gardine, Tradition Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Clos du Mont-Olivet, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

La Bastide St-Dominique, Chapelle, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Château Sixtine, Cuvée du Vatican, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Domaine Font de Courtedune, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Domaine Porte Rouge, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise

Château des Roques, Cuvée Blanche, Vacqueyras, 2020

Domaine La Fourmone, Le Fleurantine Blanc, Vacqueyras, 2020

Domaine du Terme, Vacqueyras, 2020

Château la Croix des Pins, Les Dessous des Dentelles, Gigondas, 2020

Domaine du Gour de Chaulé, Tradition, Gigondas, 2020

Domaine de la Ferme St Martin, Les Terres Jaunes, Beaumes de Venise, 2020

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres

Domaine Alary, L’Estevenas Blanc, Cairanne, 2020

Domaine A. Berthet-Rayne, Castel Mireio Blanc, Cairanne, 2020

Domaine des Amadieu, Garrigues, Cairanne, 2020

Domaine Pique-Basse, Rasteau, 2020

Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy, Vinsobres, 2020

Domaine Chaume Arnaud, Vinsobres, 2020

Lirac & Tavel

Domaine Castel Oualou, Blanc, Lirac, 2020

Domaine Lafond, Blanc, Lirac, 2020

Domaine les Carabiniers, Lunar Apogé Beige, Tavel, 2020

Domaine Maby, Prima Donna, Tavel, 2020

Château de Montfaucon, Lirac, 2020

Domaine Coudoulis, Dédicace, Lirac, 2020

See tasting notes and scores for Matt Walls’ best-value Rhône 2020 wines:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 En Primeur: full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Rhône 2020 score table

St-Joseph 2020: report and top-scoring wines

Nowhere is the disparity in quality more evident this year than in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

A lot of Tradition bottlings were disappointingly lean and scrawny, but the best terroirs really shined, producing athletic, elegant wines of intensity and panache.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top scoring Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 wines

Grenache and Mourvèdre performed well, particularly on galets roulés soils; Syrah and limestone terroirs less so.

A long élevage was crucial in building weight in the wines, but those matured in new barrels didn’t always have enough fruit to match the oak.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

If you’re looking for flamboyant, structured Châteauneufs then 2019 is more your style.

But thanks to their compact, restrained character, the 2020s will be more versatile with food. Both are good vintages, just in very different styles.

Among the white wines in 2020 it’s hard to go wrong – this is an incredible year for Châteauneuf blanc.

The best have it all: great terroir expression, impact, freshness, precision, fine acidity and moderate alcohol.

If you haven’t bought any for a while, this is the year to dip in.

Quick links

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top-scoring wines

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres | Lirac & Tavel

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 key producers:

Château de Beaucastel

Château Rayas

Clos des Papes

Domaine de Beaurenard

Domaine de la Janasse

Domaine de Marcoux

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 top value wines:

Château de la Gardine, Tradition Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Clos du Mont-Olivet, Blanc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

La Bastide St-Dominique, Chapelle, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Château Sixtine, Cuvée du Vatican, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Domaine Font de Courtedune, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

Domaine Porte Rouge, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

See the Southern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 88 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Some Rasteau 2020s lack substance this year, but it’s a vintage that has played into the hands of those estates who favour elegance over power.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2020 wines

’If you want to make wines with finesse, it was a good year,’ says Mikael Boutin.

The best 2020s display the concentration and sinew of Rasteau without excessive alcohol.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

It’s a fruity vintage that’s easy to enjoy in Cairanne, quite compact compared to 2018 and 2019.

The best estates managed to find the necessary concentration and character alongside the natural freshness of the vintage to craft some vibrant wines.

It’s a year where Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault have really delivered, adding depth and detail to the blends.

The whites, as elsewhere, have great clarity and zest.

It’s a good year for Vinsobres too. Sidestepping the overoaked or overextracted wines, I found lots of classic, elegant expressions of the terroir with the textural cut-and-thrust that makes this appellation so distinctive.

Quick links

Southern Rhône report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise | Lirac & Tavel

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2020 key producers

Domaine Alary

Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy

Domaine des Amadieu

Domaine la Luminaille

Domaine la Pequélette

Domaine Richaud

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2020 top value wines

Domaine Alary, L’Estevenas Blanc, Cairanne, 2020

Domaine A. Berthet-Rayne, Castel Mireio Blanc, Cairanne, 2020

Domaine des Amadieu, Garrigues, Cairanne, 2020

Domaine Pique-Basse, Rasteau, 2020

Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy, Vinsobres, 2020

Domaine Chaume Arnaud, Vinsobres, 2020

See the Southern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 88 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

‘All good quality years have hydric stress,’ says Jacky Bernard, President of AOC Vacqueyras, ‘otherwise you don’t get the necessary concentration… But extreme stress is counterproductive.’

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020 wines

Vacqueyras, perhaps thanks to its proportion of old vines (42% are over 40 years old) rode out the drought in 2020 relatively successfully.

It’s not a powerful or tannic year, but the reds are juicy, balanced and accessible, while the whites are concentrated and energetic.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

Though there are many good wines to choose from in Gigondas, quality is less consistent.

Some wines lack the terroir expression and complexity that comes with full maturity. Those who waited for maximum ripeness and opted for a long élevage had the most success.

Beaumes de Venise reds tend to lack their characteristic chiselled structure this year. Here it’s a light and fruity vintage for early drinking – the sweet whites were more successful.

Quick links

Southern Rhône report and top-scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Lirac & Tavel | Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020 key producers

Château de Saint-Cosme

Domaine des Bernardins

Domaine la Monardière

Domaine le Sang des Cailloux

Domaine Santa Duc

Moulin de la Gardette

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020 top value wines

Château des Roques, Cuvée Blanche, Vacqueyras, 2020

Domaine La Fourmone, Le Fleurantine Blanc, Vacqueyras, 2020

Domaine du Terme, Vacqueyras, 2020

Château la Croix des Pins, Les Dessous des Dentelles, Gigondas, 2020

Domaine du Gour de Chaulé, Tradition, Gigondas, 2020

Domaine de la Ferme St Martin, Les Terres Jaunes, Beaumes de Venise, 2020

See the Southern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 88 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

This is a very fine vintage for St-Joseph, with excellent red and white wines to be found along the length of the appellation.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top scoring St-Joseph 2020 wines

There are many exceptional wines from small but outstanding granite terroirs to be found for less than £40 per bottle.

There are plenty of bright, fresh and balanced wines to choose from, almost all of which will drink well immediately.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

The less impressive examples are more typically due to clumsy handling – over-extraction, over-oaking or excessive reduction.

Bastien Jolivet, who has vineyards in the central part of St-Joseph, says he witnessed a gradual ripening with no blockages, thanks to a succession of small showers of around 10mm during the summer.

He believes the reds will last longer than the 2015s and the 2018s.

Quick links

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Cornas and St-Péray | Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

St-Joseph 2020 key producers

Domaine Bernard Gripa

Domaine Faury

Domaine JL Chave

Domaine Martine & Christian Rouchier

M Chapoutier

Vignobles Chirat

St-Joseph 2020 top value wines

Domaine Bernard Gripa, Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Faury, Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020

Vignobles Chirat, Chays d’Oeuvre Blanc, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Faury, Hedonism Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Jolivet, L’Instinct Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020

Domaine Martine & Christian Rouchier, La Chave Rouge, St-Joseph, 2020

See the Northern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 98 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top St-Joseph 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Despite the very dry conditions, this feels like a more naturally balanced vintage than 2017, 2018 and 2019.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2020 wines

The wines are juicy and concentrated without feeling heavy.

Some have a green streak due to blockages in ripening, but these don’t feature in my selection of top-scoring wines. Rest assured you can buy red Crozes-Hermitage with confidence this year.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

The whites are excellent with vibrant and zesty aromatics, even if the acidity isn’t always terribly high, and the Roussanne was particularly good this year.

Quick links

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Cornas and St-Péray | Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | Hermitage | Saint-Joseph

Crozes-Hermitage 2020 key producers

Domaine des Hauts Chassis

Domaine Laurent Fayolle

Domaine les 4 Vents

Domaine Marc Sorrel

Domaine Yann Chave

Crozes-Hermitage 2020 top value wines

Domaine Betton, Circé Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Gaylord Machon, La Fille Dont J’ai Rêvé Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Vendome, Les Pinets Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine de la Ville Rouge, Inspiration, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Sens, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Melody, Friandise, Crozes-Hermitage, 2020

See the Northern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 98 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Crozes-Hermitage 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

This is a remarkably classic vintage for Hermitage given the hot, dry conditions.

The reds have impressive tannic weight and texture, balanced acidity and a good sense of freshness.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Hermitage 2020 wines

The whites are a floral, mineral expression of Hermitage, with less of the richness and opulence of recent vintages.

‘It’s like the vines adapted to the heat and the vintage, so it’s full of hope for me,’ says Jean-Louis Chave.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

In response to the increasingly dry conditions, Caroline Frey at Paul Jaboulet Aîné says she has adapted how she works in the vineyard: working the soil less, leaving the vines with larger canopies and flattening grass in between the rows to retain humidity.

But she admits she can’t rationalise the cool aspect found in the wines of 2020.

‘It’s the mysterious part of the vintage,’ she says, ‘I don’t think any winemaker can explain it completely.’

This is a very good Hermitage vintage, one of precision and structure rather than depth and muscle.

Quick links

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Cornas and St-Péray | Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | Crozes-Hermitage | Saint-Joseph

Hermitage 2020 key producers

Domaine JL Chave

Domaine Laurent Fayolle

Domaine Yann Chave

E Guigal

Ferraton Père & Fils

M Chapoutier

Hermitage 2020 top-value wines

Domaine Belle, Blanc, Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières Blanc, Hermitage, 2020

Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux Blanc, Hermitage, 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Les Diognières, Hermitage, 2020

Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux, Hermitage, 2020

Tardieu-Laurent, Hermitage, 2020

See the Northern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 98 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Hermitage 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

The wines of Cornas fall broadly into two camps this year; soft and juicy wines for early drinking and some tighter, structured, appetising wines with good longevity. My suggestions are broadly taken from the latter camp.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2020 wines

Many 2018s and 2019s in Cornas are overripe and soft; 2020 is a welcome return to a more clear-headed, focused style.

Pierre Clape says ‘it was hot and dry but we always had cool nights, especially in July, of 18 or 19 ̊ C, and grapes can ripen very quickly with hot nights’.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

In St-Péray, 2020 also marks a return to a more classic style.

In 2019, and particularly 2018, I struggled to find wines to recommend, but 2020 is a much better vintage, full of light, bright, transparent examples.

Years like this remind you that this can be the source of some of the most delicious white wines of the Ardèche. Most will show their best within the first few years of bottling.

Quick links

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

Cornas & St-Péray 2020 key producers

Cave Julien Cécillon

Domaine A&E Verset

Domaine Clape

Domaine Vincent Paris

Ferraton Père & Fils

M Chapoutier

Cornas & St-Péray 2020 top value wines

Cave de Tain, Fleur de Roc, St-Péray 2020

Cave Julien Cécillon, Gemini, St-Péray 2020

Domaine Laurent Fayolle, Montis, St-Péray 2020

Domaine Mucyn, Hypsos, Cornas 2020

Domaine Vincent Paris, Granit 30, Cornas 2020

Dumien-Serrette, Patou, Cornas 2020

See the Northern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 98 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Cornas & St-Péray 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Tasting the 2020 Côte-Rôties reminded me of the 2016s – while some are on the light side, the wines are ripe with a fine tannic frame.

They are noticeably more slender and less potent than the previous few vintages and will drink well straight away.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for the Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2020 top-scoring wines

Stéphane Ogier believes the cool nights were an important factor in the fresher style of the 2020s.

Pierre Rostaing says that the young vines suffered most from water stress, but so did those old vines planted close to the bedrock.

This year he picked ‘the smallest ever berries – unlike in 2021, when they were the biggest ever!’

His opinion chimes with that Jean-Paul Jamet’s, that careful handling was needed to avoid over-extraction.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

In Condrieu, yields were higher in 2020 than in 2019, making for a less intense, but more fluid and drinkable vintage.

Some lack concentration, but most producers have made wines with harmony and finesse. This is a consistent Condrieu vintage with plenty of good wines to choose from.

Alcohol levels are noticeably more moderate in 2020 than in the previous three vintages.

The 2019s will age well, but I would drink the 2020s young.

Quick links

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Coming soon: Saint-Joseph, Cornas and St-Péray, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2020 key producers:

Domaine du Monteillet

Domaine JP Jamet

Domaine Rostaing

Domaine Stéphane Ogier

Domaine Xavier Gérard

E Guigal

Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2020 top value wines:

Domaine Christophe Billon, Les Matisses, Condrieu 2020

Domaine Niero, Les Ravines, Condrieu 2020

Domaine Xavier Gérard, Arbuel, Condrieu 2020

Domaine du Monteillet, Fortis, Côte-Rôtie 2020

Domaine Faury, Revinescence, Côte-Rôtie 2020

Domaine Xavier Gérard, Côte-Rôtie 2020

See the Northern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 98 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2020 tasting notes and scores:

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

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Read Rhône correspondent Matt Walls' expert analysis on the Rhône 2020 vintage, plus see his 400 wine tasting notes and scores.

NORTHER RHÔNE 2020 SCORE TABLE: TOP WINES

SOUTHERN RHONE APPELLATION OVERVIEWS

Analysis of each Southern Rhône appellation coming soon

Southern Rhône 2020 overall rating: 4/5

Fresh, juicy and immediate reds with lower alcohol than recent years, though some lack concentration. Beautiful white wines.

Southern Rhône 2020 red wine of the vintage:

Domaine de la Janasse, Chaupin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020

Southern Rhône 2020 white wine of the vintage:

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020

Some vintages, such as 2016 and 2018, produce one style of wine in the Southern Rhône and a very different one in the Northern Rhône.

In 2020, however, that’s not the case – both the north and the south experienced similarly hot, dry growing conditions, resulting in a comparable style.

‘Much more finesse and elegance than 2019,’ according to Frédéri Férigoule of Domaine le Sang des Cailloux.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the Southern Rhône 2020 top scoring wines

Coming soon:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres | Lirac and Tavel

Here, as in the Northern Rhône, the year got off to an early start. Flowering and fruit set went well and after generous rains in April and May, the vines endured a hot, very dry summer.

The west bank was hit by frost, then hail, but the rest of the Southern Rhône had a stress-free year.

‘There was nothing to do!’ says Julien Barrot of Domaine la Barroche.

From tasting the wines, it would appear that drought-related blockages in ripening were more widespread in the Southern Rhône than the north. This is something of a mixed blessing.

Generally speaking, alcohols are lower than recent years and the wines have a fresh, elegant profile. Others have a green streak and lack tannin and depth.

But if you buy with care, there are plenty of wines with energy and verve that will offer balanced and refreshing early drinking.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

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Red wines from soils with plenty of water-retaining clay fared relatively well.

Old vines, with extensive root networks, also managed to sustain themselves better throughout the summer.

‘All varieties did well this year,’ according to Jacky Bernard, President of AOC Vacqueyras, which was a particularly reliable appellation this year.

Mourvèdre performed strongly throughout the south, providing valuable concentration and structure.

Along with Mourvèdre, César Perrin at Château de Beaucastel was particularly pleased with the quality of the Roussanne in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

And Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes was impressed by the Bourboulenc and Piquepoul Blanc.

White wines in the Southern Rhône are exceptional this year – don’t miss out.

Given the relatively fine tannic structures, I would expect this to be a vintage to enjoy young, but as Férigoule points out, ‘marathon runners aren’t big, muscular guys… for me, the important thing is the balance – and they have balance’.

See the Southern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 89 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Southern Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores:

The following wines all scored 94 points or above. Wines are listed white then red in score order.

Join us in the vineyards! Experience the best of the Rhône with Matt Walls this June, find out more here.

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2020 overall rating: 4.5/5

A reliably fresh, balanced and approachable vintage – a return to classicism after a series of powerful years. Excellent white wines.

Northern Rhône 2020 red wine of the vintage:

Domaine Rostaing, La Côte Brune, Côte-Rôtie 2020

Northern Rhône 2020 white wine of the vintage:

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage 2020

The main features of the year were drought, heat and a very early harvest. Thankfully there were heavy rains in October, November and December 2019 which created reserves for the vines to draw on.

There were also welcome rains in May and June that helped sustain the plants. The rest of the year, however, was exceptionally dry.

The vineyards roused early thanks to warm weather in March, but mercifully there were no spring frosts here. They held on to this lead throughout the year, resulting in the earliest vintage since 2003.

Scroll down for Matt’s top-scoring Northern Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

Coming soon:

Cornas and St-Péray, Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, Hermitage, | Crozes-Hermitage

It was steadily hot throughout the year, but there were no fierce heat spikes like in 2019. This is one reason Bastien Jolivet of Domaine Jolivet thinks the wines are so balanced and harmonious: ‘there were no excesses,’ he says.

Laurent Fayolle believes another factor is occasional rain showers that provided just enough to preserve the vines’ foliage.

Some growers did report localised water stress, however, leading to blockages in maturity, particularly in Crozes-Hermitage and with younger vines. This might partly explain a lack of depth in some wines.

Aside from these factors, there were no major climatic events or stresses to deal with.

‘Everything was done by June,’ says Jean-Louis Chave.

Grapes had to be gathered promptly due to the ongoing heat, but there was no pressure from rain or rot.

See the Rhône 2020 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

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Yields were only slightly lower than average and nobody I spoke to reported problems with fermentation.

The results are ‘much better than I thought they were going to be,’ says Philippe Guigal, ‘we were surprised by the wines, we thought they’d be more flabby, but they have good energy.’

They aren’t high in acidity, but their light textures give them a sense of freshness and drinkability.

It’s difficult to pick out top performing appellations, as they all performed consistently well. But after a disappointing 2018 and 2019 relative to other Northern Rhône appellations, I found a lot to enjoy in Cornas and Saint-Péray in 2020. Whites are as strong as reds this year.

A question lingers over ageability. I agree with Laurent Fayolle, who says ‘it’s a vintage to keep, but perhaps not the longest living.’

When the wines are in bottle, their potential longevity will be easier to read.

See the Northern Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 98 wines scoring 94 points or above

See Matt’s top Northern Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores:

The following wines all scored 94 points or above. Wines are listed white then red in score order.

Join us in the vineyards! Experience the best of the Rhône with Matt Walls this June, find out more here.

Related content:

Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Last chance to buy E Guigal LaLas virtual masterclass tickets for Decanter at Home

In brief: Rhône 2020 En Primeur

Northern Rhône 2020: 4.5/5

A reliably fresh, balanced and approachable vintage – a return to classicism after a series of powerful years. Excellent white wines.

Southern Rhône: 4/5

Fresh, juicy and immediate reds with lower alcohol than recent years, though some lack concentration. Beautiful white wines.

‘These are wines that will provide huge amounts of pleasure, straight out of the gate. It is that rare thing – an excellent vintage for early drinking.’

At the heart of the 2020 Rhône vintage lies a paradox. If growing conditions were marked by heat and drought – like several of the preceding vintages – then why are the wines so very different in style?

If you’ve opened many 2019s, no doubt you’ll have tasted how the roasting summer resulted in vigorous, intense wines that are impossible to ignore. The 2020s, however, are distinctly different: fresh, vibrant and deliciously drinkable.

Scroll down for Matt’s top-scoring Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

The vast difference in style is a puzzle that continued to perplex me during my three weeks in the region, tasting over 1,200 wines.

Is it due to the lack of heat spikes in 2020? The cool nights? Or is it evidence that the vines are adapting to a new climate?

Frustratingly, there are no conclusive reasons why these vintages are so contrasting.

In the words of Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes, ‘it’s just nature – there is no explanation.’

Whether we can explain it or not, the effect is real – and felt throughout the entire region. It makes for wines with well-defined flavours that faithfully reflect their terroir. Alcohol levels feel lower this year than in the three preceding vintages, making for better balanced, more approachable wines.

Tannic structures are more substantial in the north, but quality is high in both the Northern and Southern Rhône. And not just red wines. Lovers of white Rhône will be thrilled – the 2020s have a rare fluidity and brightness.

This is the freshest vintage for white wines since 2014.

See all 400 Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores

Coming straight after the imposing 2019s, it’s clear that the 2020s don’t share the same depth. Some wine come across as a little too light and easy-going in fact.

The 2020s are not as concentrated and rarely have the same length as the 2019s. If you’re looking for reds and whites with long ageing in mind and the complexity that brings, then 2019 appears to be the better option, at least at this stage.

But based on their development to date, I suspect these wines will continue to take on weight and harmonise as they finish their élevage. The best wines will still clock up a couple of decades in bottle; they will age on their freshness and balance, rather than density and muscle.

These are so deliciously approachable now, however most won’t last that long.

This is a vintage to buy now and drink while you’re waiting for your 2016s, 2017s and 2019s to develop. If that sounds like faint praise, then let me elucidate.

These are wines that will provide huge amounts of pleasure, straight out of the gate. It is that rare thing – an excellent vintage for early drinking.

Northern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines 

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu | St-Joseph | Cornas and St-Péray | Hermitage | Crozes-Hermitage

Last chance to buy E Guigal LaLas virtual masterclass tickets for Decanter at Home

Southern Rhône 2020 full report and top scoring wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise | Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres | Lirac and Tavel

Top producers in 2020

Northern Rhône

Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu

• Domaine du Monteillet
• Domaine JP Jamet
• Domaine Rostaing
• Domaine Stéphane Ogier
• Domaine Xavier Gérard
• E Guigal

Saint-Joseph

• Domaine Bernard Gripa
• Domaine Faury
• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine Martine & Christian Rouchier
• M Chapoutier
• Vignobles Chirat

Cornas and Saint-Péray

• Domaine A&E Verset
• Domaine Clape
• Domaine Vincent Paris
• Cave Julien Cécillon
• Ferraton Père & Fils
• M Chapoutier

Hermitage

• Domaine JL Chave
• Domaine Laurent Fayolle
• Domaine Yann Chave
• E Guigal
• Ferraton Père & Fils
• M Chapoutier

Crozes-Hermitage

• Domaine des Hauts Chassis
• Domaine Laurent Fayolle
• Domaine les 4 Vents
• Domaine Marc Sorrel
• Domaine Yann Chave

Southern Rhône

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

• Château de Beaucastel
• Château Rayas
• Clos des Papes
• Domaine de Beaurenard
• Domaine de la Janasse
• Domaine de Marcoux

Gigondas, Vacqueyras & Beaumes de Venise

• Château de Saint-Cosme
• Domaine des Bernardins
• Domaine la Monardière
• Domaine le Sang des Cailloux
• Domaine Santa Duc
• Moulin de la Gardette

Rasteau, Cairanne & Vinsobres

• Domaine Alary
• Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy
• Domaine des Amadieu
• Domaine la Luminaille
• Domaine la Pequélette
• Domaine Richaud

Lirac & Tavel

• Château de Montfaucon
• Domaine d’Arbousset
• Domaine de la Mordorée
• Domaine des Carabiniers
• Domaine Lafond
• Moulin de la Viguerie

See the Rhône 2020 score table listing Matt’s top 110 wines all scoring 95 points or above

Last chance to buy E Guigal LaLas virtual masterclass tickets for Decanter at Home

See Matt’s top-scoring Rhône 2020 tasting notes and scores:

The following wines all scored 97 points or above. Wines are listed white then red in score order. 

In 2001, George W. Bush was sworn in as the 43rd President of the United States. Meanwhile in the UK, Tony Blair led the Labour Party to its second landslide victory. A lot can change over the course of 20 years.

According to many Rhône winemakers and wine collectors, this is how long a bottle of Hermitage should lay undisturbed until you open it. Is it really worth the wait?

I recently tasted 11 Hermitage 2001s – seven red, two white, two sweet – to test the 20 year hypothesis and see how these wines are looking today.

See Matt’s tasting notes and scores for 11 different Hermitage 2001 wines

Red, white and sweet

Red Hermitage is Syrah at its most statuesque. The wines can feel uncomfortably massive when young and are prone to extended periods of inexpressive introversion. It can take many years for their tannins to soften and their inborn complexity and charisma to surface.

A third of Hermitage hill is planted with white varieties, mostly Marsanne and a little Roussanne. White Hermitage drinks from the same potion as the reds and shares their Obelixian might. They can last just as long as the reds, arguably longer. Rarer still is the sweet white Hermitage Vin de Paille.

The 2001 vintage

A vintage that’s more commonly associated with excellent Côte-Rôties, it was also very good in Hermitage in both reds and whites.

‘I really think it was a good example of a classic year, very loyal to the place,’ says Jean-Louis Chave. ‘It’s easy to forget about [this vintage] but it has always been good.’

He remembers a fairly large crop, with a clear difference in quality between wines grown on the hillsides and those on the flat. This was due to a large storm just before picking – rather like 2021 – so they had to wait for the vineyards to dry out before the harvest.

Aside from this interruption, both rainfall and average temperatures over the year were very typical for the period.

2001 Hermitage tasting: the results

All of the reds in this tasting were safely out of any awkward phase and were all drinking well. None of the wines were deceased, though the Cave de Tain Classique was beginning to tire and arguably would have been better a few years ago.

The other reds had many years ahead of them, but none of them necessarily require further ageing. They’re not going to improve as such, though they will continue to change and develop in bottle. From here on in, it’s really a question of personal taste and how old you like your wines to be.

Whilst I wouldn’t have wanted to open the Domaine JL Chave much before now, the other bottles of red Hermitage would all have provided a lot of pleasure before today. So for a classic (rather than exceptional) vintage, perhaps waiting 15 years before opening might be a better rule of thumb.

The same goes for the two bottles of dry white Hermitage: neither of them needed to wait this long before being opened, but they were both in a great place.

The Cave de Tain Classique white was the surprise of the tasting. The Classique red might have been fading, but the white was fresh, balanced and delicious, with more in reserve. It suggests that white Hermitage can indeed last longer than its red counterpart.

Chapoutier’s Le Méal blanc was also exquisite and of the dry wines, only the Domaine JL Chave red Hermitage will outlive it.

I was surprised to see two Hermitage Vin de Paille submitted, as only a few producers still make it. It’s more costly to make a Vin de Paille than a dry white, and with global interest in sweet wines waning over the past few decades, it isn’t an easy sell.

But the wines tasted were a vindication of this traditional style. Dry white Hermitage is powerful already, so imagine it riper yet more concentrated, with an oily, mouthcoating sweetness. Years matter little to wines like this. They will probably outlive me.

Who knows what the world will look like in in 2041. With the constant barrage of negative news worldwide, it can be hard to stay optimistic.

But tuck away some 2020 Hermitage in your cellar and at least you know you’ll have something to look forward to.

See Matt’s tasting notes and scores for 11 different Hermitage 2001 wines:

Wines in order of colour and style then score

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Mature Gigondas

In 2019, I visited the cellars of Domaine du Cayron in Gigondas. With great generosity, sisters Delphine, Cendrine and Roseline Faraud opened a bottle of their 1971 vintage. A very good year it might have been, but I’ll be honest with you, at 48 years of age I didn’t hold out much hope. I was wrong.

The aromas had moved beyond fruit into polished wood, cold ashes, cigar smoke and spice. There was still a dab of fruit sweetness on the palate, however. On the finish, that salinity – the tightrope that Gigondas walks as it ages – shone through.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 18 mature Gigondas wines spanning 1990 to 2005

Gigondas gains AOC status

The 1971 vintage was particularly special here. It was the year that the appellation of Gigondas was promoted from village-level, AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Gigondas, to the cru-level of AOC Gigondas. To celebrate their 50th anniversary this year, the appellation is planning a smorgasbord of celebrations (click here for details). What better moment than this to revisit some mature vintages to see how they’re progressing and to illustrate how Gigondas develops over time.

As a rule of thumb, most Southern Rhône wines are showing their best between four to eight years after the vintage. Grenache-based wines rarely fall into quite as deep a sleep as Syrah from the Northern Rhône. But between youth and early maturity they tend not display the vibrancy of a young wine nor the complexity of a mature one.

So for now enjoy the 2019s, 2018s and 2017s for their juicy, fresh fruits. But try to leave your 2016s, 2015s and the more structured 2014s for a few years yet.

The 2013s, 2012s and 2011s I’ve enjoyed recently are developing complexity alongside their succulent fruitiness and are in a good place. Most 2010s, however, still aren’t ready yet – it was an excellent but powerful year that’s taking a long time to open up.

The verdict on the 1990-2005 vintages

The bracket of wines from 2009 to 2005 inclusive are now at a later stage of maturity and I tasted three 2005s for this tasting.

2005

‘2005 will remain in my mind as a magical year,’ says Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme. It was a very dry year resulting in a small, concentrated crop and his Valbelle is only just ready to drink. In comparison the Domaine Raspail-Ay is comfortably mature and drinking beautifully.

For many wine lovers this will be the perfect stage at which to drink great mature Gigondas. They show richness, concentration and sap combined with the complexity of age.

2001

My high hopes for a flight of three 2001s weren’t quite met. It was an excellent vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but this is a different terroir. It was another hot, very dry year that was complicated for many in Gigondas. This resulted in wines that were tough to start with. The freshness of the vintage is impressive, but it’s not the most elegant.

Domaine Brusset’s Les Hauts de Montmirail was excellent, however. The 2001 is a vintage Laurent Brusset remembers for its ‘natural balance’, he says; something he captured with great skill.

The twenty-year mark represents a tipping point for mature Gigondas wines. It is typically around this age that any remaining fresh fruit aromas will have passed into gamey, spicy, woody and balsamic notes.

Some drinkers might find this more challenging. For me, however, the truth is found on the tongue. If the wine is still fresh, supple and harmonious on the palate, there’s still enjoyment and pleasure to be had – though that pleasure can move from hedonistic into a more intellectual realm.

2000

The warm 2000 vintage resulted in a very large crop, and is considered a softer, more tender year than 2001. That being said, the 2000 Grapillon d’Or was a revelation. It is a brilliant, complex, compelling wine immediately after opening, though it faded soon after that.

Bastide St Vincent’s Costevieille was past its best, but not without interest, having descended into an infernal meaty cauldron of flavour.

1999

Both 1999s – Domaine du Pesquier, and Pierre Amadieu’s Domaine Grande Romane – had the vibrancy and straightness of this vintage and were alive and tense. Pierre Amadieu explains that it was an underrated year, characterised by its ‘extremely clean fruit, contrasting with the big and powerful 1998’.

It was always in the shadow of the hotter 1998, but thanks to their acidity some 1999s not only have better definition and freshness, but they have aged more gracefully too.

1998

The 1998s are largely at the same stage as the 2001s, 2000s and 1999s. Of the three 1998s I tasted, they were all showing strong gamey notes. Some had a bretty character which was a more prevalent problem in the 90s than it is today. They felt a little stodgier and more alcoholic than the 1999s, and need drinking up now.

The 1998 Domaine Saint Gayan was particularly enjoyable, however; a wine to sink into like an old leather armchair.

1995

From here, I jumped to 1995, which is considered a truly great vintage in Gigondas. It is one that has taken a long time to come round. Domaine Les Goubert’s Cuvée Florence and the ever-dependable Domaine Santa Duc’s Les Hautes Garrigues were both show-stoppers.

The fresh fruits of both had gone, making way for date and prune, along with rolling tobacco, leaf tea and dried herbs. It’s the harmony and textural vibrancy that gives these wines such longevity – a result of the clay-limestone terroir.

1990

There was only one wine from 1990, a fabulous year throughout the Southern Rhône: Domaine du Cayron. This time I knew what to expect, and I wasn’t disappointed. It’s a wine of stunning complexity, with another 10 years ahead of it.

‘One of my favourite vintages,’ says Delphine Faraud of Domaine du Cayron, who counts 1985, 1978 and 1971 as exceptional older years. ‘The wines of Gigondas’, she says, “have, and always will have, a great ageing potential’.

1990 to 2005: 18 mature Gigondas wines tasted

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