On the Right Bank, or eastern side, of the Dordogne river, St-Emilion is one of Bordeaux’s most famous appellations, yet also one of its most complex.

Too often it’s defined solely by its upper echelon of Grand Cru Classé wines – the top-rated St-Emilion estates declared in an official classification that’s revised every 10 years.

Yet St-Emilion is, in reality, vast, fragmented and richly diverse, encompassing a patchwork of communes and terroirs that extend well beyond the medieval town itself.

Alongside prestigious châteaux sit modest, often family-run estates producing some of Bordeaux’s most compelling value wines.

For this reason, we turn our eye to the next rung on the quality ladder: St-Emilion Grand Cru (not ‘Classé’).

Sitting above the many wines that are labelled simply ‘St-Emilion’, Grand Cru is the dynamic middle ground that unites quality, personality and affordability.

There is inevitably confusion surrounding these levels of St-Emilion’s wine hierarchy.

St-Emilion refers simply to the appellation as a whole, while St-Emilion Grand Cru is a separate appellation.

To qualify for it, producers must be located within the delimited geographical/terroir area and adhere to stricter production rules, including lower yields, a slightly higher minimum alcohol and longer requirements for ageing before release.

A wine labelled St-Emilion Grand Cru is therefore not necessarily from a ‘classified’ château, and it is precisely within this Grand Cru category that some of the appellation’s best values can be found.

Freedom of expression

The appellation itself spans 5,450 hectares and eight communes: St-Emilion, St-Christophe-des-Bardes, St-Etienne-de-Lisse, St-Hippolyte, St-Laurent-des-Combes, St-Pey-d’Armens, St-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens and Vignonet.

This geographical breadth is matched by considerable geological and climatic variation – four principal soil types shape the style of the wines.

At the heart of the appellation lies the limestone plateau surrounding the medieval town of St-Emilion.

While vine rooting is limited by the bedrock, the porous limestone acts like a sponge, supplying water via capillary action during dry summers and preserving freshness in the resulting wines.

On the surrounding slopes, particularly in St-Christophe-des-Bardes, St-Hippolyte and St-Laurent-des-Combes, clay-limestone soils allow deeper root penetration, good drainage and moderated water supply, producing structured, complex wines built for ageing.

Further east, particularly around St-Etienne-deLisse and St-Pey-d’Armens, a subtle Mediterranean influence introduces slightly warmer conditions, favouring ripeness and plush fruit.

By contrast, in the southern sector of the appellation, including St-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens and Vignonet, closer to the Dordogne, gravelly and sandy soils derived from alluvial deposits dominate.

These free-draining, heat-retentive soils encourage early ripening and fruit-forward styles that are accessible in youth, though the best examples retain the capacity to age.

This mosaic of soils and influences underpins the appeal of St-Emilion Grand Cru as a value category.

Free of the expectations and pricing pressures of achieving or maintining classification, many Grand Cru producers – including standalone non-classified properties and second wines of classified estates – focus on site expression and measured use of oak.

The result is a broad stylistic spectrum, from taut, limestone-driven wines to more generous, fruit-led expressions, all of which offer genuine St-Emilion character at very affordable prices.

Selecting just 18 wines from such a deep pool is no easy task.

The wines I’ve chosen here are selected for consistency, a clear sense of place and real value, offering a compelling snapshot of an appellation where discovery remains part of the pleasure.

St-Emilion Grand Cru

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St-Emilion delivered wines of striking diversity and terroir transparency.

Limestone and clay-limestone plateau plots – the appellation’s signature soils – produced the most refined, balanced and vibrant expressions.

The slower sugar accumulation leading to wines with naturally higher acidity, refined tannins and lifted aromatics that gave the vintage a classic yet energetic feel.

In contrast, parcels with more gravel influence faced greater water stress, leading to extremely low yields and tighter, more concentrated fruit that required very precise management.

Frédéric Faye, technical director at Château Figeac, detailed the extreme drought after flowering (only 400mm of rain vs 850mm in a normal year), slow sap flow, cold nights and phenolic ripeness arriving before sugar, resulting in intense flavours and classic vinification.

He said: ‘We had 10 days throughout June, July and August over 40 degrees but the nights were cold so the vines could breathe.’

The late-August rains and cool September nights proved decisive everywhere, refreshing the vines and preserving acidity without dilution.

What emerged was a vintage of real personality: floral and mineral-driven, with juicy red and blue fruit, focused structure and a stony finish – less opulent or heavy than 2022, more balanced and drinkable than many recent warm years, yet still serious and age-worthy.

Lifesaving rain after the heat

Heat (and its consequences) is a major theme of the vintage

Nicolas Corpandy, technical director at Château Cheval Blanc, noted that there were 10 days above 35°C and a peak of 41.6°C on 11 August.

But, he added, that the 59mm of rain between 20–31 August, ‘revitalised the vines and freshened up the style’ and helped aromatics, freshness and phenolic maturity.

At Château Quintus, part of the Domaine Clarence Dillon stable, the message was: ‘without the rain at the end of August, we would have produced syrup’.

David Suire, technical director at Château Laroque, highlighted the ‘best possible conditions in the area for this kind of vintage’ on limestone and clay with old vines, noting the terroir ‘shines this year’ and the rain was ‘beneficial for freshness’.

He added; ’the vines really preserved themselves this year, they produced less sugar so less alcohol and had a slow evolution of the aromatics’.

He also noted that many of the previous ‘best vintages’ had much high alcohols: ‘For 25 years at least all outstanding vintages have had higher alcohol than this year which changes the sensation and balance of the wines. It’s possibly a new 2016 but with less alcohol and less firm than 2016.’

He said it was, ‘a vintage that will stay in our memories for a long time’.

Yields (and the lack of them)

Despite the rain, the heat meant grapes were ready for picking early. Nicolas Audebert, technical director at Château Canon and Château Berliquet, noted that his teams were out as early as 28 August.

Château Troplong-Mondot began exactly a month later – 28 September – but still a record early start, while Château Ausone started on 2 September.

Something that is a big feature of the 2025 vintage is the extreme disparity in yields.

Cheval Blanc's Corpandy reported an exceptionally low yield of only 15hl/ha – one of the lowest of any major estate and something the team has never experienced before.

Charlotte Krajewski, technical director and chief winemaker at Château Clos Cantenac (and also Château Seraphine in Pomerol), recorded a yield of 25hl/ha, the smallest harvest ever.

At Troplong-Mondot, the picking teams noted extreme variations in yield from one plot to another – from 12hl/ha to 40hl/ha giving an average of 27hl/ha.

Then again, Château Canon achieved great yields of 40hl/ha – mostly due to the homogeneity of Canon’s vineyards on the plateau.

Diminishing returns

Others also intentionally sought lower yields. Gregory Leymarie, new managing director at Château Valandraud, after Jean-Luc Thunevin sold his majority share earlier this year, oversaw stricter selection and lower yields of 36–37hl/ha.

He said for the first time not everything harvested on ‘grand vin’ plots will make it into the top red wine with a strict selection decreasing production from roughly 40-50,000 bottles down to around 35,000 bottles.

Similarly for the estate’s second wine, Virginie de Valandraud, the production will also decrease by roughly half to give the wine ‘a better signature’.

But while lower yields can mean higher quality, the balance with commercial viability comes into play.

The team at Château Bellefont Belcier, for example, picked 28hl/ha when closer to 40hl is considered necessary to start covering costs.

And such is the size of the harvest that certain cuvées won't appear this year, especially second labels such as Petit Cheval and Chapelle d’Ausone.

Happy overall

Nonetheless, most châteaux seemed happy with what they had accomplished given the tricky circumstances.

Benjamin Laforet, technical director at Château Angelus, said the biggest flex was, ‘to say we can produce wines people are eager to drink in bottle even in these conditions’.

Comparing and contrasting years, Jean-Christophe Meyrou, general manager of Vignobles K described 2025 as having ‘better potential than 2020 and 2022 with more balance and more definition’ as well as an ‘interesting touch of tannins and lower alcohol’.

Nicolas Audebert described 2025 as a combination of, ‘parts of 2016 and something of 2022 – there’s a balance between freshness and maturity with energy, intensity, concentration and density’.

Julien Barthe at Château Beauséjour Becot praised his 2025 as a ‘distinguished, racy wine – where we have the true identity of the vineyard – you know you’re in Bordeaux’.

Constance Vaulthier at Château Ausone noted: ‘There’s not the opulence of 2022 but a nice balance’.

Finally, Aymeric de Gironde, technical director at Château Troplong Mondot, described 2025 as a mix of 2022 and 2023 expressions with ‘brightness of aromas from 2023, some intensity of the 2022, but more mineral – salivating, fresh, lots of energy’.

However, there was a touch of ruefulness as he concluded: ‘We’ve seen heatwaves in August in every vintage for the last seven years, we know we need to protect freshness and ensure the berries don’t lose their brightness.'

‘2025 is exactly the style of wine we want to make – if only we made more’.

What's new

Chanel has brought its four estates – Rauzan-Ségla (Margaux), Canon and Berliquet (both St-Émilion), and Domaine de l’Île (on the island of Porquerolles) – together under a single unified banner: 'Les Vignobles’.

Each estate will retain full operational autonomy, its own team and its distinct winemaking identity while Nicolas Audebert will continue to oversee the four properties as a whole.

The 2025 vintage will be Jean-Luc Thunevin’s last at Château Valandraud after 35 years.

Planned changes have now formally taken hold for his estates that now mean Marie and Christophe Lefevere, who already own Moulin du Cadet, Soutard-Cadet, Villemaurine, and Sansonnet, have taken full ownership of Château Valandraud as well as the Thunevin négociant business.

At 75, Jean-Luc Thunevin is stepping back from day-to-day involvement at Valandraud while retaining owership of his other projects, including Clos Badon-Thunevin and Clos du Beau Père.

Château La Couspaude (St-Émilion) completed its final vintage under Aubert family ownership before its January 2026 sale with the winemaking now handled by Jean-Christophe Meyrou of Vignobles K.

Further reading from this report

• Pomerol
• Pessac-Léognan & Graves
• Dry whites
• Crus Bourgeois
• Pauillac
• St-Estèphe
• Margaux
• St-Julien
• Sauternes

Bordeaux 2025: Top wines from St-Emilion

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Few names are as synonymous with contemporary St-Emilion as Château Pavie – one of just two St-Emilion estates currently with the top rank of premier grand cru classé A – and Gérard Perse, its late owner and former self-made supermarket mogul turned wine empire builder.

An unrelenting dream with quality and hospitality at its heart has seen the Perse universe evolve and expand from wine estates to hotels, restaurants, brasseries and now even an ice cream parlour all nestled among the cobbled streets of the medieval village, the crown jewel of the Right Bank region.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Georgie’s top picks from Château Pavie

Historic and contentious

It’s not hard to see Pavie’s clear terroir credentials, given that vine cultivation here dates back to the 4th century – supposedly the oldest alongside Château Ausone.

It’s a rare and relatively extensive single block, comprising the famous limestone plateau and sweeping south-facing slopes that tumble into an amphitheatre of vines dropping from 85m to 20m and basking in the full sun above the Dordogne valley.

‘Wine is of course the main job,’ says Henrique Da Costa, son-in-law of Perse, who has for more than two decades been part of the family team running the estate with Perse’s daughter Angélique (pictured, below).

‘But it’s also everything around it – in order to give guests the full experience, you need gastronomy, you need hospitality. Quality, quality, quality – that was always Gérard’s rule.

And it shows. From the meticulously tended vines and beautifully adorned commemorative bottles to the magnificent marble-clad reception and tasting rooms and five-star accommodation.

Pavie’s success story is as impressive as Perse’s, with slick marketing and a bucketful of options for any wine lover wanting to enjoy the delights of the region.

But the estate and its methods have not been without controversy.

At times branded flashy and excessive, its wines have divided critical opinion, but there’s no doubting the perseverance of a man on a mission and a team dedicated to perfection.

A radical transformation

When Gérard Perse (pictured, below) purchased Château Pavie in 1998 from the Valette family, it was a shadow of its potential, having lost much of its prestige through the 1980s and early ’90s.

Though the terroir was hallowed, the vineyard was tired, the winery outdated and much of the equipment obsolete. But Perse had already spent five years learning the rhythms of St-Emilion.

He and his wife Chantal (who worked with him from the beginning, managing the hospitality and restaurant side of the business) had bought Château Monbousquet in 1993 – what he later called his ‘laboratory for experimentation’ – and Pavie-Decesse in 1997, on the limestone plateau just above Pavie.

‘By the time Gérard came here,’ says Da Costa, ‘he knew exactly what he wanted to do. Monbousquet was where he learned. Pavie was where he applied everything.’

He saw potential not problems and came in with a spare-no-expense attitude.

When he arrived, more than 15,000 vines were missing or dead and the old cellar wasn’t fit for purpose. Within months, he tore it down and rebuilt it, installing wooden vats and temperature control.

That first new vat room was barely finished when the 1998 harvest began, yet it marked the start of a new chapter. A second, marble-clad cellar would follow in 2013, cementing Pavie’s place among Bordeaux’s most advanced wineries.

Birth of a modern legend

Replanting began and so did viticultural changes, including large-scale green harvesting. ‘People said, “He’s crazy, cutting bunches”,’ Da Costa recalls with a smile.

‘But Gérard didn’t care – he stayed focused on his way. He wasn’t making wine for Parker or for points; he was making the wines he loved, with the structure and power to last decades.’

The early vintages – 2000, 2003, 2005 – were monuments to that philosophy: dark, rich and unapologetically full-bodied.

They were also among the most polarising wines Bordeaux had ever seen. Robert Parker hailed them as masterpieces of modern St-Emilion; British critics called them excessive.

They were wines of texture and ambition, designed not for immediate charm but for longevity.

‘We know that the wine can support [new oak] for a long time, there’s no question. These are wines that are meant to live 20, 30, even 50 years,’ says Da Costa.

Pavie’s south-facing exposure naturally lends itself to generosity. ‘It’s a warm terroir, so, yes, the wines are rich – but that’s Pavie, that’s its character,’ he adds.

Monbousquet had already introduced Perse to the US market through merchant Jeffrey Davies, who championed the wines early on.

‘He admired the US,’ Da Costa says. ‘He told us many times, if he were younger, he would have gone there. But his style wasn’t for anyone else. It was his taste, his vision.’

The St-Emilion amphitheatre

Château Pavie’s 42ha form a natural amphitheatre of south-facing slopes with 11 distinct soil types, from hard limestone to heavy clays and sandy gravels – among the steepest in St-Emilion.

The varietal mix has shifted gradually over time – today about 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon – enhancing freshness and structure.

The vines are planted at 7,000 per hectare, and massal selections (propagated via cuttings from existing estate vines) are used for replanting.

The vineyard is farmed organically, but not certified, with cover crops and horses working the steepest plots.

A team of 25 vineyard workers tends the 21 parcels, which have an average age of 30 years (the oldest are 75 years old), each responsible for the same rows year after year.

‘They know every vine by heart,’ Da Costa says. ‘That’s why Pavie is so consistent – it’s not just the terroir, it’s the people, the team, the knowledge.’

This also explains the vineyard’s immaculate presentation and the subtle refinements in the wines over the past decade.

Cellar & craft

Precision is the cornerstone of Pavie’s winemaking. Grapes are handpicked, sorted twice and vinified by parcel in small oak vats. Fermentations are long and cool, with gentle pump-overs to preserve fruit purity.

‘We’re softer in the cellar now,’ Da Costa explains. ‘We still want intensity, but not heaviness. It’s about balance.’

Press wine never makes it into the grand vin. Ageing lasts 18-24 months in 60%-70% new oak, down from the 100% last used in 2005. ‘It’s about integration, not dominance. You should never taste the wood – it should just be part of the harmony.’

The technical direction is led by Laurent Lusseau, supported by long-serving cellar master Jean-Baptiste Pion (pictured, below), who joined in 1998.

‘Many of the team have been here from the beginning,’ Da Costa notes. ‘That’s what gives Pavie its soul.’

Evolution & refinement

Over the past two decades, Pavie has undergone a quiet stylistic evolution.

Shorter macerations, cooler fermentations and slightly earlier picking have brought greater freshness and precision.

The result is a more balanced expression – still unmistakably Pavie in style and power with signature freshness, but more nuanced in texture.

‘We’re still making wines that can age,’ Da Costa says, ‘but now they also have an accessibility earlier in life. That’s important for the next generation of drinkers.’

Recent vintages – 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2022 – exemplify this balance: bold yet refined, polished yet nuanced. And the older wines, once accused of excess, have aged into graceful classics.

‘Tasting the 2000s now, you see how they’ve mellowed,’ Da Costa reflects. ‘They’re still strong, but they’ve become elegant. Time has proven the style.’

Recognition & independence

Château Pavie has grown physically, too. In 2002, the national appellation authority INAO approved the integration of Château La Clusière and part of Pavie-Decesse, both sharing identical terroirs.

In 2022, the remaining 3ha of Pavie-Decesse and 2ha of Bellevue-Mondotte joined Pavie after 15 vintages of comparative tastings to confirm compatibility.

The estate’s second wine, Arômes de Pavie, has its own style and personality, being produced from dedicated old-vine parcels since 2017, while a wider Bordeaux blend,

Esprit de Pavie, uses fruit from nearby Castillon and declassified lots, further broadening the estate’s reach.

In 2012, Pavie’s transformation reached its pinnacle when it was promoted to the level of premier grand cru classé A, joining St-Emilion’s elite estates at the top of the region’s official classification listing.

To mark the occasion, Perse released a special commemorative black-labelled bottle (pictured, above).

A decade later, a limited-edition enamelled design marked the 2022 St-Emilion reclassification, symbolising continuity through change.

The classification triumph was both recognition and closure – less about competition, more about proving that the work, the vision, could achieve something lasting.

Beyond the bottle

To further understand Pavie’s influence today, one must look beyond the vineyards. The Perse family has built one of the region’s most comprehensive and self-contained visions of wine, culture and hospitality.

In the Place du Clocher, the flagship restaurant La Table de Pavie (pictured, above), led by chef Yannick Alléno, holds two Michelin stars and is striving for a third – a feat yet to be achieved in Bordeaux.

Dishes draw inspiration from the immediate surroundings with thoughtful and innovative red wine pairings.

Meanwhile, the renovation of the Hostellerie de Plaisance has transformed it into one of the most elegant hotels in the region, with an Instagram-worthy terrace overlooking the town, while the nearby L’Envers du Décor remains one of the village’s busiest bistros, beloved by winemakers and visitors to the town alike.

For Da Costa, this expansion is entirely consistent with the ethos of the wines. ‘We built hospitality purposely,’ he says, ‘to show what St-Emilion can be, and with Pavie at the heart of it all.

‘St-Emilion needed energy again,’ he continues. ‘Gérard Perse gave it that. He wanted people to come, to taste, to stay – to experience everything this place could offer.’

Legacy & reflection

Looking back after more than two decades, Château Pavie’s journey feels almost cinematic – from controversy to cult classic.

‘Gérard Perse was a visionary,’ says Da Costa. ‘He showed that conviction matters more than consensus. He made the wines he loved, and he never apologised for that.’

Even those who once bristled at the flash and ambition now concede that Perse turned a sleepy estate into a powerhouse – one that continues to thrive in his memory.

A taste of Château Pavie: Hindle’s pick of the vintages

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The St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé estate announced the start of picking today, Thursday 28 August, marking the earliest harvest date in its history.

This follows the white grape harvest, which commenced in mid-August across the region and has largely concluded in most areas, accelerated by extreme heat that pushed ripening forward.

In an email sent to Decanter today, Aymeric de Gironde, managing director of Château Troplong Mondot, described the season as echoing 2022’s conditions. ‘We are clearly looking at a vintage similar to 2022, with a hot, dry season, small, highly concentrated and very aromatic grapes, and great freshness despite the heatwaves,’ he said.

The 2025 growing season in Bordeaux has been defined by persistent heat and dryness, building on a relatively mild winter, drawing comparisons to 2022, where vines adapted remarkably to produce concentrated yet fresh wines despite the heat and lack of rain.

This contrasts last year’s challenging 2024 harvest for the region, which saw production fall to around 3.3 million hectolitres – the lowest level since 1991 – due to reduced vineyard area (from 103,000 in 2023 to 95,000ha in 2024), severe spring frost, mildew outbreaks and coulure, which all helped drive yields down to roughly 35hl/ha.

This year, consistently high temperatures throughout July and August, with several days soaring into the 40°Cs, have intensified grape ripening and concentrated flavours. Flowering progressed smoothly under favourable conditions, but mid-summer brought intense heatwaves that stressed vines, especially young vines and those on sandy or gravel soils.

Rainfall has been sparse, with August seeing minimal precipitation, leading to smaller expected yields. This dry spell has resulted in far less mildew pressure compared to wetter years, contributing to healthier vines overall.

Cooler weather has ensued this week with some morning rainfall across the region today and forecast for the coming week with temperatures in the low 20°Cs.

De Gironde emphasised the estate’s philosophy of harvesting when grapes are ‘crisp’, adding that the choice to pick was ‘not by default but out of conviction, knowing that our terroir is such that we can really take a hands-on approach to the harvest.’

Vintage expectations are optimistic, with France’s overall wine harvest projected to rise by up to 17% from 2024, driven by rebounds in regions like Burgundy and Champagne, but Bordeaux is also set for higher volumes thanks to the dry, low-disease conditions.

Not all estates are rushing to pick. In Pomerol, many are holding off for expected weekend rains to refresh the grapes and avoid over-ripeness, despite the risk of pushing alcohol beyond current levels, some of which are nearing 14% abv.

Château Cheval Blanc is expected to begin harvesting the first red grapes on Monday (1 September), also notably early for the estate, aligning with the vintage’s accelerated timeline.

Across France, an early start is also underway in the Rhône Valley, where the 2025 harvest began more than ten days earlier than last year.

Despite climatic contrasts, growers there report promising quality, with small berries, high aromatic concentration, and well-preserved acidity suggesting a vintage of freshness and balance.

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In recent years with warmer vintages, it has become easier to appreciate the freshening power of St-Emilion’s famous limestone plateau.

The beating heart of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, this geological marvel is defined by its calcium-rich, asteriated limestone (calcaire à astéries, or ‘starfish limestone’), forming the backbone of wines known for freshness, salinity and ageworthy elegance: a rocky hotspot that’s essentially grape royalty!

Scroll down for notes and scores of 14 gems from the plateau of St-Emilion

Lay of the land

While the plateau stretches 17km from St-Emilion to Castillon, just 8.2km fall within the appellation.

Its porous limestone beneath clay or loam acts like a sponge – draining excess moisture in wet seasons and releasing it during drought.

This fosters balanced vine growth and low pH/ vibrant acidity in wines, yielding reds with notes of mint, chalk and graphite.

Historically, the western plateau near St-Emilion town centre (see map, below, light yellow section), where top estates such as Châteaux Beau-Séjour Bécot, Canon and Clos Fourtet reside, benefited from early recognition in the 1950s classification. With its eroded quarries and thinner topsoils, it produces refined, ageworthy wines.

The eastern plateau, generally cooler, with thicker soils and later harvests, is now catching up in acclaim, home to estates such as grand cru Château Rocheyron, grands crus classés Châteaux de Pressac and Laroque, and premier grand cru classé Château Valandraud.

But a tasting of 14 wines for this article – mostly western plateau, some a mix of plateau with clay-limestone slopes – confirmed how, until recently, winemaking often masked terroir.

Bordeaux consultant in soils, viticulture and winemaking Xavier Choné highlighted Valandraud’s previously modern, oaky style as an example. Similarly, a recent tasting of Beau-Séjour Bécot 2010 showed how too much oak dulled the limestone freshness.

Recent vintages, however, especially since the arrival of consultant Thomas Duclos (from the 2017 vintage), now express the plateau’s finesse more transparently.

This shift toward more hands-off winemaking and lighter oak use across the appellation has allowed the limestone terroir to shine.

St-Emilion plateau origins

The plateau’s limestone formed from marine sediments laid down millions of years ago. Tectonic uplift exposed the seabed, creating the current landscape.

Erosion is greater on the western side, resulting in a purer limestone profile, according to experts.

Tasting the plateau

The tasting revealed nuanced differences between eastern and western plateau wines. Also present, French sommelier Ilona Garnier praised the ‘sheer freshness and delicate salinity’ of the Château Canon 2016, from vineyards near the village.

By contrast, the 2020 from Château Rocheyron – just 6km east near St-Christophe-des-Bardes – offered refinement but with more noticeable acidity.

Why such contrast? Mathieu Raveraud, property manager at Rocheyron, attributes it to its cooler brown, calcareous loam over limestone and clay, which leads to later ripening – about a week behind western areas.

Viticulture professor Cornelis (Kees) van Leeuwen, who worked with Château Cheval Blanc and created detailed vineyard maps, notes that later-ripening, cooler soils likely contributed to the east’s lower initial rankings back in the 1950s.

Describing the limestone’s ‘aromatic signature’ can be elusive.

While ‘wet stone’ and ‘mineral’ seem too vague, Edouard Moueix of Château Bélair-Monange offers a more evocative palette: ‘Gun flint, stone, graphite, pebble, shell, sand, stone dust, metallic notes and salinity,’ with textures like ‘chalk, talc, sandpaper… and powder.’

Nicolas Audebert, director of Château Canon, favours ‘minty freshness’ and ‘elegant tension’, while Matthieu Cuvelier (pictured, above), second-generation owner of Clos Fourtet, has it as ‘chalky’, ‘saline’ and ‘freshening acidity’.

The four terroirs of St-Emilion

The St-Emilion wine council notes that the appellation boasts about 700 wine-growers across nearly 5,500ha.

Its vineyards span four main soil types: the limestone plateau; clay-limestone slopes; a gravel terrace in the region’s northwest (home to top estates such as Château Cheval Blanc and Château Figeac), near Pomerol; and a sandy plain by the Dordogne river, where simpler wines are often produced.

Underground advantage

Duclos emphasises the role of centuries-old underground quarries in the west.

‘It’s very clear that the quarries buffer the soil temperature and water to an enormous degree,’ he explains, meaning that their presence enables soil temperatures to remain more stable and allows for the extraction of excess water.

These ‘perforated’ plots, he adds, begin their annual growth cycle early, regardless of winter weather, and ‘a vine that lives regularly produces fine and aromatic things – with style and robustness’.

Canon’s Audebert concurs that the starfish limestone acts as a ‘natural sponge’, regulating water via capillary action. ‘The result is a rather low but remarkably well-regulated water supply,’ he says.

Thinner topsoil on the western side allows roots easier access to limestone, promoting moderate vine growth and concentrated aromas.

At Clos Saint-Martin, with one of the appellation’s smallest grand cru classé vineyards at 1.33ha, director Sophie Fourcade says western limestone is ‘deeper and more porous’.

Other plateau zones may have harder rock and more clay, which influences both water management and mineral breakdown. Still, both sides benefit from low-pH (acidic) soils.

According to van Leeuwen, this not only brightens wines’ colour, but enhances freshness. Clos Fourtet’s Cuvelier believes the acidity boosts ageing potential while adding balance and ‘ethereal finesse’.

Limestone also aids nitrogen regulation. Arnaud d’Arfeuille of Château La Serre (just east of the town, but on the edge of the plateau) explains that calcium carbonate slows organic mineralisation, ensuring just enough nitrogen for healthy vines and strong bud formation.

Elevation helps, too: the plateau vines of Canon and Bélair-Monange (both in the west), perched at up to 87m and 88m respectively, enjoy drying winds that help prevent disease.

Estates with at least 85% limestone plateau

All western plateau except where marked as eastern (E) or both

• Château Beau-Séjour Bécot (85% plateau) • Château Canon (90% plateau) • Château Grandes Murailles (final vintage in 2021, thereafter part of Clos Fourtet) • Château La Clotte • Château La Couspaude • Château La Serre • Château Rochebelle (E) • Château Sansonnet (E/W) • Château Trotte Vieille (W/E) • Château Villemaurine • Clos Fourtet • Clos Saint-Julien (90% plateau) • Clos Saint-Martin • Les Astéries (JCP Maltus; made at Château Teyssier)

Limestone & climate change

As climate change accelerates, the St-Emilion plateau’s water retention becomes even more valuable. ‘It helps the vines effectively resist water stress,’ says Audebert.

Its cooling effect during hot summers and draining capacity in wet years ensure that grape quality remains high. Eastern-side estates once considered too cool now benefit.

‘Cooler clay is no longer a handicap,’ says van Leeuwen, citing estates such as Châteaux Gaubert and Rocheyron.

‘These terroirs, sometimes considered [to ripen] too late in the past, now provide us with grapes with a crisp fruitiness not marked by overripeness – particularly helpful for Merlot,’ adds Raveraud at Rocheyron.

Plotting the plateau: the role of limestone

Philippe Raymond of the St-Emilion wine council wasn’t able to compile a complete list of the châteaux that have limestone plateau soils.

As he explains, many producers have plots on the plateau and the hillsides, meaning it’s difficult to estimate the plateau or hillside share in a blend.

In addition, some châteaux have plots on the plateau to make a cuvée and vinify elsewhere (for example, the JCP Maltus Les Astéries bottling, vinified at Château Teyssier further south).

But he confirms at least eight châteaux have ‘verified’ 100% limestone plateau vineyards: Clos Fourtet, Clos SaintMartin, Gaubert, La Couspaude, La Serre, Le Chatelet, Sansonnet and Villemaurine.

Scores of St-Emilion estates include plateau grapes to varying degrees, from the likes of Châteaux Beau-Séjour Bécot, Canon and Trotte Vieille with mostly limestone plateau grapes, to estates such as Château Bellevue with about 10% limestone plateau grapes – and many in between.

From the ground up

The tasting underscored how subtle differences can emerge even between similar blends from vineyards just kilometres apart.

Comparisons included estates fully on the western plateau, such as Clos Fourtet, with others, such as Châteaux Ausone, Bélair-Monange and Fonplégade, that mix plateau and slope-grown grapes.

As viticulture and winemaking increasingly prioritise terroir expression, the role of the limestone plateau has become unmistakable.

Fonplégade co-owner Denise Adams describes the limestone as ‘not just another prominent component of our blend – it is the guiding thread’.

While clay-limestone slopes bring ‘roundness, richness and notes of red and black fruits’, the plateau contributes ‘tension, freshness and a more exotic floral and fruity aromatic profile’.

Ageing: how do St-Emilion wines with grapes from the limestone plateau mature?

Matthieu Cuvelier, Clos Fourtet: ‘The limestone plateau undeniably produces wines with excellent ageing potential. These wines are built on acid balances that always yield freshness and length, and aromas range from fruit to flowers, with the appearance over time of truffle, camphor and saffron notes.’

Edouard Moueix, Château BélairMonange (pictured, above): ‘After a few years in bottle, the stone notes keep supporting the dominating fruit notes of redcurrant, strawberry and blackberry, but also more floral ones such as hawthorn, lime blossom and acacia. With time the palate gains length, with powdery and rock crystal sensations.’

Nicolas Audebert, Château Canon: ‘Distinctive characteristics include minty freshness. Regardless of the vintage, bottle ageing allows for optimal wine development, preserving its original essence.

‘The terroir always takes over, allowing the expression of the limestone to develop over time, but with complex and evolved tertiary aromas appearing, albeit subtly, after 10 years of ageing, which will become more dominant over time.’

Rock of ages: 14 wines from St-Emilion’s plateau

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Tucked away on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, east of Pomerol and north of St-Emilion, the 1,600ha Montagne St-Emilion AP is a hidden gem.

Merlot dominates (at least 75%), together with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, in this appellation with an enviable location.

Separated from St-Emilion itself by the river Barbanne, Montagne shares many influences with its more famous neighbour. Yet the wines of Montagne are still relatively unknown.

Andy’s pick of the wines of Montagne St-Emilion are listed below

Montagne St-Emilion is one of the four APs commonly referred to as the ‘St-Emilion satellites’ – a description referring to the location of the vineyards, as well as the fact that they share similar underlying soil structures.

Being linked to this appellation powerhouse undoubtedly brings marketing advantages. But this can also be seen as a ‘double-edged sword’, perhaps casting the lesser-known APs in the role of poor relations.

However, Montagne is no sidekick, being the largest of the satellites, with St-Georges St-Emilion (closest to St-Emilion) the smallest.

Growers here can choose whether to label their wines as St-Georges or Montagne. Puisseguin St-Emilion (some 730ha under vine) lies east of Montagne, with similar clay-limestone soils and slightly lower temperatures.

Lussac St-Emilion (1,450ha) is the furthest north of the satellites, with a varied mix of terroir including both heavier clays and sandier soils, with a distinctly cooler, fresher feel to the wines.

Tangible change

Pascal Lambert, marketing director for the Montagne appellation, highlights the similarities between the underlying limestone rock, overlaid with clay, with those of St-Emilion.

The topographical differences between the appellations are visually barely perceptible when crossing over the Barbanne river, although the elevation gradually climbs as one moves north.

Today, elevation is one of Montagne’s biggest advantages. Recent studies by Kees Van Leeuwen, Professor of Viticulture at Bordeaux Sciences Agro, identify the cumulative degree-day measurements (Winkler Index) for various right bank APs.

St-Emilion is undoubtedly a major ‘hot-spot’, while Montagne is markedly fresher; Puisseguin and Lussac, further north and east, are cooler still.

This cooler climate used to be a weakness for Montagne St-Emilion, yet now it’s proving to be a benefit. With similar bedrock and soils to St-Emilion, combined with lower cumulative temperatures, the wines of Montagne are significantly ahead of where they were just a few years ago.

Chewy, rustic tannins have now been replaced by smooth, ripe tannins.

Winemakers are making big strides, with distinct moves to reduce oak influence and emphasise fruit ripeness, while embracing new techniques such as ageing in clay amphorae.

The new wave is evident from the plethora of different labels on show – some looking distinctly traditional, whereas others have a much more modern style.

Prices and value in Montagne St-Emilion are competitive, and even more so when compared to the St-Emilion grand cru classé level. When next visiting the region, take a trip north over the Barbanne – the village of Montagne is less than 15 minutes’ drive, and the trip will prove very worthwhile.

Andy’s pick of Montagne St-Emilion

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All Bordeaux 2024 coverage:

Full vintage analysis & top-scoring wines | How the weather conditions shaped the vintage | The growing season month by month | Wine styles: what to expect | Market conditions and pricing strategies 

Appellation analysis to come

St-Julien | St-Estèphe | Pauillac | Pessac-Léognan | Cru Bourgeois | Margaux | Dry whites | Top value | Sauternes & Barsac

St-Emilion 2024: Mixed results given the size and varying terroirs but some outstanding, ageable wines

Average yield St-Emilion: 40.8hl/ha, Grand Cru: 36.4hl/ha

Variance from 2023: -5.4% (43.1.hl/ha), Grand Cru: -10.6% (40.5hl/ha)

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top wines from St-Emilion 2024

Vintage overview

St-Emilion is rarely homogenous given the sheer size and varying terroirs and 2024 is no different, however there are some brilliant wines that really dispel the notion that it was a difficult year.

I thought the Canon stable of wines was particularly good, I loved Lassegue and thought Clos Dubreuil was a great effort in the vintage.

Estates on limestone; Belair Monange, the two Beausejours and Clos Fourtet did extremely well not to lean too heavily into austerity while Figeac and Cheval produced really lovely wines in 2024.

TrotteVieille and Troplong performed well and I was impressed by L’If, too.

Destieux was a little more reserved than usual which I enjoyed and de Ferrand, La Dominique and Laroque were also very good.

A special shout out also to the biodynamic estate Croix de Labrie who produced a fabulous wine in 2024 despite the conditions.

What the winemakers thought

For Pierre Olivier Clouet, technical director of Cheval Blanc, the 2024 grand vin is ‘impressive but more serious than smiley and pleasant’.

‘In 2024, we forget about sweetness, volume, silkiness and sexiness – these are academic wines. Cheval is almost shy at this point but super complex and elegant’. Clouet compared 2024 to 2014, 2008 and 2004. ‘We will need the maturation process to polish and integrate the wines due to the acidity and tannins,’ he said.

‘In a way I am super proud that we can still make these vintages in Bordeaux. That’s the charm – the diversity – and that we can go back to a vintage like we had in the 1980s in terms of climate but we have better know-how and technology to make excellent wines,’ he added.

The strategy at Cheval was to wait for maximum ripeness then harvest quickly. They had two teams one from 6am-2pm and the second 2pm-8pm. ‘We usually pick 18ha in seven days, in 2024 we did it in two and a half.

They also chaptalised like many, carried out bleeding and used a densimetric sorting machine – ‘three things we usually never do’. They discarded 34% of production with a vinification yield of 28 hl/ha.

For Frédéric Faye, technical director at Figeac the blending sessions were more difficult than usual. ‘It took 10 three-hour sessions to get it right because some lots took more time than others to express themselves’.

They also used a densimetric sorted and discarded 21% of their crop.

Aymeric de Gironde, technical director at Troplong Mondot emphasised the ‘teamwork’ nature of the vintage. ‘There’s a particular feeling of reward when you have to work hard at every stage of the year. It was a challenging year but everyone came together’.

Matthieu Cuvelier, owner of Clos Fourtet, also likened the 2024 vintage to 2014 and 2008 as well as 2001. ‘When you strip it all back this is what you get’ he said. For the grand vin they used only the limestone plateau plots and used a densimetric sorter.

Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse co-owner and director of Beauséjour said ‘we can’t have easy vintages every year’ adding that they lost 25% of production to mildew and a further 15% from drastic sorting. The new, custom built cellar with small tanks came in handy for precise vinifications in 2024.

For Angélus’ head of wine Benjamin Laforet winemaking is about ‘translating a grape into a product.’

‘We focus on what nature gives us, we adapt to the weather conditions and moderate our picking to each terroir. We don’t want to force anything, we want the wines to be open, charming and accessible,’ he said.

Standouts

• Angélus
• Canon
• Beau-Séjour Bécot
• Figeac
• Troplong Mondot

Highlights

• Bélair-Monange
• Cheval Blanc
• Beauséjour
• Larcis Ducasse
• Pavie
• Ausone
• Clos Fourtet
• La Gaffelière
• Croix de Labrie
• Trotte Vieille

Value

• Bellefont-Belcier
• Carillon d’Angélus
• Franc Mayne
• Laroque
• Lassègue
• La Dominique
• Fleur Cardinale
• Fombrauge
• Moulin St Georges
• Sansonnet
• Cadet Bon
• de Ferrand
• Fonplégade
• Fonroque

See all 148 St-Emilion 2024 wines

See the top-scoring St-Emilion 2024 wines

Search all 700+ Bordeaux 2024 en primeur ratings

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A mostly excellent showing for St-Emilion in 2022 – the only major appellation to receive above average yields.

Scroll down for the top-rated St-Emilion 2022 in bottle

There are a range of styles, but in the best cases expect freshness and zingy acidity with fruit purity but still plenty of structure and length.

Vines on the limestone plateau and on clay soils in particular were successful having been able to access key water sources to withstand the drought.

‘We’ve never seen our vines resist so well – there was no hydric stress,’ said Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, co-owner and CEO of Château Angelus, earlier this year.

She gave two reasons; the first because of the team’s hard work on cover crops to keep humidity and freshness on the ground and second; the deep root system and number of old vines that were able get ‘everything they need’.

Talking about terroir

Winemaker Benjamin Laforet said: ‘2022 shows how the vineyard work was more important than in the cellar’.

Two of their wines, Tempo and Carillon, have the exact same blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc with very different expressions – the former being from limestone and the latter on deep clays.

‘It really gives us an opportunity to talk about terroir,’ he said. For me Tempo is a top value pick this vintage showcasing an easy drinkability with the Angelus flair.

At Cheval Blanc, cellar master Carole André agrees: ‘We weren’t expecting anything fresh but the vineyard adapted. The vines slowed their metabolism to keep the freshness.

‘We had tiny berries with thick skins but no sunburn’ she added. With no second wine, Petit Cheval in 2022, ‘almost all plots went into the grand vin, giving a good picture of both the vintage and the estate’.

The grand vin spent 13 months in 100% new oak with ‘good drinkability from the very beginning,’ André said.

Quality across the board

For me St-Emilion is always interesting given the size, varying terroirs and classification system – of which the new rankings take effect from 2022.

This mean Cheval Blanc, Angelus and Ausone are no longer Premier Grand Cru Classé A estates, with only Pavie and the newly upgraded Figeac in that category.

For this report I tasted 153 St-Emilion wines, with another 100 or so from the satellites (Montagne, St-Georges, Puisseguin, Lussac, as well as Castillon and Lalande de Pomerol) which will be covered in another post.

Almost 50 wines scored 94 points or above so there’s plenty of choice for excellent wines at both Cru Classé and Grand Cru levels.

Favourite wines

My two favourites were Figeac and Angelus with 100 point scores. Both wines impressed with their precision and power, and entirely separately I used the words ‘sophisticated’, ‘effortless’ and ‘moreish’ in both of my tasting notes.

Troplong Mondot was extremely impressive – sumptuous and filling but juicy and finessed. It’s a little shy but there’s plenty of potential for this wine.

At the top end can’t really go wrong with Canon, Beausejour, Clos Fourtet, Bélair Monange – all on the limestone plateau as well as Trotte Vieille and Cheval.

Pavie was charming and structured and there were great showings for Pavie Macquin, Larcis Ducasse, Laroque (which remains very good value for its quality) and La Gaffeliere.

Some wines are in the over ripe and over extracted category with opulent profiles, chewy tannins and still a lot of oak on show but many at the less expensive end will provide plenty of enjoyment and soon drinkability.

Of the wines I note as ‘great’ or ‘ones to seek out’, they include the Cabernet Franc-dominant Jean Faure on clay-gravel soils as well as Haut-Sarpe and Sanctus on clay-limestone soils.

All St-Emilion 2022 in bottle scores

COMING SOON

Tasting notes for all 800 Bordeaux 2022s

plus

BORDEAUX 2022 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Pauillac 2022 | Margaux 2022 | St-Julien 2022 | St-Estèphe 2022 | Pomerol 2022 | Pessac-Léognan & Graves 2022 | Best value 2022

Top-rated St-Emilion 2022 in bottle

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Gareth Birchley, Vincenzo Arnese and Arthur Coggill tasted 111 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 79 Highly Recommended.

St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015: Panel tasting scores

111 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 79

Recommended 18

Commended 4

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2015 vintage red Bordeaux grand vins from St-Emilion Grand Cru and Grand Cru Classé, and Pomerol

If you asked the vignerons of Bordeaux to predict the quality of the 2015 vintage before a single bud had even burst, many of them would have stated that greatness was inevitable.

It is, of course, purely chance that 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010 were all contenders for the finest vintage in their respective decades.

Nevertheless, in 2015, the universe acquiesced and gave the Bordelais a tricky but incredibly favourable growing season.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of the pick of St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015

St-Emilion’s pyramid proves its worth

After tasting 111 wines blind from both St-Emilion and Pomerol in this warm vintage, the quality was evident. Vincenzo Arnese commented that, at 10 years old, you see ‘all their purity and integration’. From top to bottom, there was certainly a coherence and commonality between the wines that I would, if pushed, summarise as ‘ripeness’.

The key was simply managing the fruit to produce fresh, balanced and ageworthy wines. The task was, in general, simply to not spoil the fruit in the winery… but that’s easier said than done.

Despite showcasing different styles, St-Emilion was incredibly consistent. It does feel as if there was still a desire, from some properties, to over-extract the fruit, leaving those wines stewed and lacking definition.

Indeed, Arthur Coggill commented: ‘It was surprising to find so many wines still in thrall to the old style favoured by Robert Parker, and so for me, the 2015 vintage marks the highwater mark for the Parkerised style.’

The very best châteaux managed tannin perfectly – super-fine and wonderfully silky, with incredible length. The judges did note, however, that it was a shame not to see the full cross-section of the commune.

Among the 77 St-Emilion wines tasted, only six were 1er Grand Cru Classé (of the 14 ranked as such in the 2012 Classification, which applied at the time) – and their quality was a marked step up.

Thrilling consistency

Across the border in Pomerol, the quality was also incredibly consistent. Arnese commented: ‘Overall, Pomerol showed a surprisingly lifted style. I was expecting more ripeness in the final result, yet the sample showed good balance and purity.’

More of the ‘big names’ were submitted, which gave a much more coherent cross-section of what the region bottled in 2015. The styles produced were also far less variable than in St-Emilion.

Bordeaux’s en vogue appellation produced charming wines across the board, more perfumed and floral than their neighbour’s, with very little over-extraction, allowing the vineyards and terroir to speak.

I suspect that this is as consistent as a broad tasting of mid- to top-end Bordeaux can be. None of the wines exhibited the green, underripe character we often find in this maritime climate.

At the lower end, Bordeaux still has a lot of work to do in matching both the quality and value for money found in many regions outside France. That said, it was encouraging to see many of the top performers proving their worth and rising to the top.

I’m a firm believer that, at above £50 a bottle, pound for pound, Bordeaux provides better value than most other wine regions in the world. If you buy the best wines from this vintage, you will not only find pleasure now, but for decades to come.

St-Emilion and Pomerol 2015 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Gareth Birchley is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. Arriving in London in 2006, he worked in sales and senior buying roles at Bordeaux Index and Berry Bros & Rudd, before joining Burns & German in early 2019

Vincenzo Arnese is director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year

Arthur Coggill is head of business development at London-based merchant Hatton & Edwards, having joined in January 2024. Prior to this he was at Goedhuis & Co, where he worked initially in fine wine sales before running its investment fund for eight years, and then moving into buying in 2021

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Ever since St-Émilion turned away from the so-called ‘Parkerised’ style of viticulture and winemaking, the region has become a prime hunting ground for drinkers seeking a delicious Bordeaux bargain.

Scores of superb Grands Crus Classés ranging in price between £30 to about £45 a bottle offer excellent value for money.

Rather than being oaky, over-ripe and over extracted, most of the 71 Grands Crus Classés today reflect freshness, wet stone minerality and brighter ripeness from quality limestone and clay soils.

But one of the top St-Émilion Grands Crus Classés – Château Laroque – had never been a ‘Parker Darling’.

Scroll down for a mini-vertical of Château Laroque

Less than a decade ago, it flew under the radar, with a classical style of winemaking that was sometimes rustic, but never overdone or big.

From 1982 to 2014, estate director Bruno Sainson crafted refined wines that reflected the impressive terroir of St-Émilion’s largest château.

Thanks to his guidance, Château Laroque – which had been famous in the 19th century – re-emerged to the rank of Grand Cru Classé in 1996.

Reaping the rewards

Château Laroque has gained increased recognition in recent years, with critics worldwide heaping justified praise upon it.

As the taste for extracted, overripe styles has receded, demand for wines like Château Laroque have risen.

Secondly, rather than doubling down on the classicism, in 2015 the owners – the Beaumartin family – hired enologist David Suire to add precision and smoother tannins to an existing classical style, elevating quality.

In his first year, Suire worked with Sainson to understand the estate, while contributing his valuable experience with Premier Grand Cru Classé neighbours Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse and Château Larcis Ducasse.

Molasse and Merlot

The estate has long been renowned for its soil. Laroque itself takes its name from the local limestone. Early in his new tenure, Suire oversaw a soil study to improve site selection and vine management.

The study confirmed the estate’s outstanding terroir, revealing different ‘climats’ (small vineyard areas), which has led to much more refined decision making when it comes to managing and harvesting the various plots of Merlot.

The team made hundreds of excavations in 2015 to redefine plot selections, revealing the purest expression of soil types.

Immediately surrounding the château, the plateau’s limestone rock comes close to the surface as it does with Clos Fourtet and Château Canon, creating chestnut-coloured clay topsoil.

Towards the east lies a layer of red clay and Agenais molasse (layers of clay and gravel), like that found at Château Pavie Macquin and Troplong-Mondot.

The east-facing clay terraces, like the west-facing slopes, are made up of Fronsac molasse (limestone-clay-sandstone), the same as found at Ausone and Tertre Rôteboeuf.

A small part of the vineyard lies in the plain, made up of brown soils derived from the erosion of limestone outcrops, the production of which does not go into the first wine.

Greater selection

The estate has also been more careful in harvest selection for the first wine, compared to the Sainson era.

For example, Suire uses only the heart of the press wine to always ensure the best quality juice. The estate today has no less than three labels, with up to half of the harvest used for the grand vin.

The estate also now emphasises massale selections of Merlot, using genetic stock from a subset of Merlot clones that were planted in the wake of the devastating 1956 frost.

Readers may notice that the latest blends are nearly 100% Merlot. Many in St-Émilion are advocating replacing Merlot with Cabernet Franc in response to climate change.

But Château Laroque’s massale-selected Merlots ripen more slowly than the clones planted throughout the region in the 1970s and 1980s. These slower-maturing Merlots help counter climate change and are ideal for the limestone and clay terroir of the estate, Suire says.

Indeed, even as alcohol levels rise, freshness stays high thanks to low pH levels at Château Laroque.

In addition, Suire has been lowering the percentage of new oak from around 50% to 25% in the most recent vintages.

His team also has been increasing the use of larger oak vessels for ageing – up to 9,000-litre oak casks – which better integrate tannins and yield more subtle aromatics, he says.

Importers taking notice

‘We follow the estate, which has been one of the great deals and – up until 2021 – always sold out en primeur,’ says Phil Bernstein of Washington D.C. importer MacArthur Beverages.

‘The 2018 was the first vintage that really blew up for USA sales-wise and the 2019 even more.’

Bernstein praises Suire: ‘The wine has improved dramatically with David at the helm, and I find it to be very serious for the price – a wine that should age well,’ he explains.

Château Laroque’s success is reflected through its wide distribution. Despite its being the largest estate in the appellation, ‘it is still relatively tough to get an allocation,’ Bernstein points out.

Historical setting

Château Laroque’s 12th century tower flaunts its nine centuries of history. Flanked by a more recently built Baroque façade, the estate sits prominently on a limestone plateau south of the village of St-Christophe-des-Bardes.

With its dry moats, it still resembles the stronghold it was during the 100 Years War, defending the western approaches to St-Émilion.

Château Laroque has been owned by several families over these many centuries and was used for multiple agricultural purposes.

But in the 19th century, Maurice Dufaure de Rochefort, an enthusiast of St-Émilion wines, focused on vine-growing, at a time when Bordeaux wines were achieving international acclaim.

By the end of that century, Château Laroque was producing 300,000 bottles per year. The de Rochefort family also constructed the elegant façade adjacent to the surviving medieval tower, which led to the moniker ‘the Versailles of St-Émilion’.

The 19th century proved a golden age for Château Laroque. Sadly, however, phylloxera, bankruptcy in World War I and the Great Depression reduced the vineyard to only six hectares, and the estate was left abandoned.

The first generation of the Beaumartin family acquired the six hectares under vine, plus 78 hectares of woodland in 1935.

Initially, the family looked upon Château Laroque as a vacation home, but, after the 1956 frost, the second generation cut down the trees and planted vines.

The estate has undergone a renaissance in the 20th century, first under Sainson and now continuing under Suire.

The next chapter of this historic estate is well underway.

About Chateau Laroque

Established in the 12th century.

Size of estate: 84 hectares with 61ha under vine

Owners: The Beaumartin Family

Winemaker and managing director: David Suire

Plantings: 94% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc

First wine: 45-50% of the annual production

Second wine: Les Tours de Laroque, made from younger vines on the limestone plateau

Third label: Chateau Peymouton, made from more clay-based soils, in a lighter and fruity style for restaurants.

Certifications: HVE since 2018.

Château Laroque: 2005-2020

Wines are listed in vintage order – oldest to youngest

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Nestled amid the rolling hills of the Bordeaux wine region, the small, picturesque town of St-Emilion is steeped in history and revered by wine enthusiasts around the globe. Here, the art of winemaking is not merely a trade but a sacred tradition passed down through generations, shaping the identity of this enchanting destination.

The story of this UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to the first planting of vines back in Roman times. Over the ensuing centuries, monks meticulously tended the vineyards, perfecting the art of winemaking and laying the foundation for the prestigious wines that bear the town’s name.

Today, St-Emilion is more than just a wine destination – it’s a pilgrimage for wine lovers, drawn to the region’s rich cultural heritage and profound connection to the land. What makes it stand out from the other wine regions in Bordeaux is that rare combination of spectacular wines, gastronomic sophistication and absorbing heritage. So whether you’re savouring a glass of a grand cru classé or exploring the underground cellars of a historic château, each moment spent in St-Emilion is a journey of discovery and delight.

Landmark experiences

Among the seven villages and two small towns that make up the wider St-Emilion appellation, the town of St-Emilion itself stands out for its centuries-old architectural wonders, vibrant ambience and wealth of charming wine boutiques and quality restaurants. Be sure to take some time to thoroughly immerse yourself in this historic enclave and explore its most important and beautiful landmarks.

The monolithic church of St-Emilion, a marvel of ancient craftsmanship (built in the 11th and 12th centuries), houses underground chambers adorned with cryptic carvings and sacred chapels hewn directly into the limestone cliffs. Nearby, the collegiate church boasts exquisite Romanesque and Gothic architecture (built in the 12th-15th centuries) and features a flamboyant 13th-century Gothic cloister, where visitors can admire intricate frescoes depicting scenes of local history and religious significance.

Don’t miss the steep streets, or tertres, in the town centre. These four ruelles (‘lanes’) are natural slopes transformed into pathways with irregular cobblestone paving. And wander through the bustling market hall, located at the corner of the square near the monolithic church, whose Gothic arches and mouldings date back to medieval times, when the market housed grain traders.

Across the cobblestones, Le Cloître des Cordeliers presents a fascinating fusion of past and present.

The historic cloisters (pictured, above), built during the 14th century, now serve as the backdrop for wine production, and visitors can witness the process of creating sparkling wines (atypical for the region) using the traditional method. The cloisters offer hour-long tours that include a horizontal tasting of its sparkling wines in the renovated tasting room (€15 per person, 4pm daily). Even if you’re not taking a tour, this would be a great place for a sparkling break, especially on hot days.

Exploring the wines

But let’s not forget, it was St-Emilion’s renowned red wines that brought you here. So, for wine tasting purposes, I highly recommend leaving the centre to explore some of the region’s wineries.

Unsurprisingly, wine lovers are spoiled for choice, with more than 100 châteaux offering a range of experiences, from traditional wine tastings to wine and cheese pairings, cooking classes and vineyard explorations. At Château Rol Valentin, for example, you can enjoy a two-hour ‘wine glass shape’ workshop (€36 per person) and discover the effect of the size and shape of a glass on your perception of the wine contained within.

For a truly immersive experience, visit Château Fleur Cardinale, where guided tours (from €24 per adult for a one-hour ‘first impression’) offer insights into the estate’s organic viticultural practices, culminating in a tasting of its exceptional grand cru classé wines. If you’re visiting with kids, the winery also offers fun, family-friendly tours and a virtual reality experience (€89 per adult, €20 for 13-to 17-year-olds) as well as a sensorial corridor that brings the vineyard inside, and a landscaped terrace that overlooks the countryside.

If you love architecture, I highly recommend visiting Château Montlabert, which boasts an impressive 18th-century neoclassical facade. Visitors can take an in-depth tour that includes an immersive experience created in the barrel cellar by set designer Eric le Collen, depicting the life cycle of the vine and the land, and culminates with a tasting of three of the château’s wines (€30 per person).

For art enthusiasts, the beautifully renovated Château de Ferrand, owned by Pauline Bich Chandon-Moët and her husband Philippe Chandon-Moët (of the Bic pen and Champagne companies respectively), contains a diverse collection of modern artworks created using or inspired by Bic pens. Visitors can also indulge in tastings and gastronomic delights at the château’s La Table de Ferrand, under the care of chef Marilyn Madray, and even stay the night in one of three tastefully appointed bedrooms (from €290 per night).

Finally, don’t miss the opportunity to visit Château Mauvinon, where you can enjoy guided tours and tastings of its wines amid idyllic surroundings. I recommend taking the Gourmet Visit, during which you’ll taste three wines, each paired with a different cheese (€20 per person, 12.30pm-2pm daily).

My perfect day in St-Emilion

Morning & lunch

Start your day in the heart of St-Emilion and embark on a stroll to Château Soutard, where you can choose from a range of experiences, including the ‘prestige’ visit, which takes in an exploration of the underground quarries, cellars and 18th century mansion (listed in the inventory of historic monuments of France), plus a vertical tasting of five exceptional vintages, accompanied by a selection of mature cheeses (€130 per person).

For a memorable lunch experience, venture to Château la Dominique and savour a delectable meal at its terrace restaurant La Terrasse Rouge. With panoramic views of the vineyards, this picturesque setting provides the perfect backdrop for a series of culinary delights. Before your meal, be sure to take a guided wine-tasting experience in the château’s modern tasting room (from €35 per person) and stop by the boutique shop for some goodies on the way out.

Afternoon

Venture on to one last winery for the day. The family-owned Château Guibeau in Puisseguin St-Emilion is situated on one of the highest points in the Bordeaux region. This five-generation family estate offers a unique insight into the winemaking traditions of the Destouet dynasty. Then transition back from the vineyards to the medieval streets in the heart of St-Emilion, where, despite the town’s quaint size, you can easily while away a few hours.

Dinner

As the day winds down, treat yourself to a sophisticated evening at the two-star Michelin restaurant La Table de Pavie. Alternatively, for a more relaxed atmosphere, Chai Pascal offers delicious options to satisfy your culinary cravings.

Hotel stay

Complete your perfect day by staying at the Logis de la Cadène, ideally located in the heart of St-Emilion. Alternatively, for an unforgettable vineyard experience, consider Château Troplong Mondot just outside town, where you can wake up among the vines. Both also have fantastic one-star Michelin restaurants.

Exciting events

The St-Emilion appellation encompasses more than 5,400ha of vineyards, making it a relatively compact wine region. Exploring by car provides flexibility in selecting wineries to visit, but guided tours offer a deeper dive into the region’s wines. Several companies offer e-bike tours, including Rustic Vines, whose full-day ‘original’ tour features a picnic lunch with wine, visits and tastings at two wineries, a guided walking tour of St-Emilion and a wine tasting in the town centre (from €169 per person).

The best time to visit St Emilion is during spring and early autumn, when the weather is mild and the vineyards are alive with activity. Visiting during the harvest season in September and early October is especially interesting as it provides an intimate glimpse into the winemaking process. The beginning of the harvest is marked by the Ban des Vendanges – a ceremony that takes place on the third Sunday in September in the centre of town.

However, arguably the most exciting event in St-Emilion is the Portes Ouvertes ‘open house’ weekend, typically held on the first weekend of May. This special occasion offers a rare opportunity to explore numerous châteaux over the course of a weekend. Visitors can enjoy guided tours of the estates and their vat rooms, and sample wines from various vintages. Many wineries enhance the experience with festive additions such as lunches, concerts, children’s activities and art exhibitions. For those who appreciate the charm of family-owned wineries, this event is particularly delightful because it allows guests to interact with multiple generations of winemakers, all in one place.

For a non-wine-specific activity, there’s also Les Montgolfiades de Saint-Emilion, the annual three-day hot air balloon festival, which takes place in October and welcomes more than 10,000 people to view dozens of balloons floating over the vines. In St-Emilion, every sip tells a story and every vineyard visit is an opportunity to immerse yourself in the timeless art of winemaking. Whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or a curious novice, a journey to this beguiling region promises unforgettable experiences and equally memorable wines.

Your St-Emilion address book

Accommodation

Château Bellefont-Belcier

Visitors can delight in the estate’s prestigious guesthouse, recognised for its historic charm and tranquil countryside setting. A 2023 regional winner of the Great Wine Capital Accommodation award, the château’s main building can also be rented out for exclusive use.

Château Grand Barrail

4km northwest of St-Emilion, this château is a luxury five-star hotel featuring beautifully appointed rooms, an amazing spa and wellness facility, gourmet dining options and panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards.

Château Troplong Mondot

With incredible views over St-Emilion, Troplong Mondot offers a host of luxurious accommodation options, including renting the entire 18th-century château or the two-bedroom Vineyard House, nestled between rows of vines.

Restaurants

L’Atelier de Candale

A beautiful restaurant from the family-run Château de Candale set on the edge of vines with incredible views of St Emilion’s southern slopes. The head chef Renaud Bernadet uses fresh, seasonal and local ingredients all presented elegantly and pairable with the estate’s wines. Perfect for romantic getaways, celebrations or family meals; in summer, enjoy the outside terrace. The estate also offers tours and tastings and has a boutique shop for souvenirs.

La Table de Pavie

Located in St-Emilion’s historic centre, La Table de Pavie is renowned for its innovative dishes and elegant ambience. Owned by the Perse family, also owners of premier grand cru classé A estate Château Pavie (and others), the restaurant, led by celebrated chef Yannick Alléno, holds two Michelin stars.

Le Jardin

At Château Petit Faurie de Soutard’s restaurant Le Jardin, chef Stéphane Casset serves locally sourced cuisine amid picturesque gardens. The restaurant’s front terrace and back balcony both overlook the surrounding hills.

Les Belles Perdrix

The one-star Michelin restaurant at Château Troplong Mondot offers gourmet cuisine and panoramic vineyard views. Led by acclaimed chef David Charrier, the esteemed restaurant is a great dining option for those looking for a wonderful culinary experience using produce sourced from the estate’s own herb and vegetable gardens.

Things to do

Visit the Cloître des Cordeliers

Renovated historic monastery known for its traditional-method sparkling wines, offering guided tours and tastings in a picturesque setting.

Taste the local wines

Discover the rich heritage of St-Emilion at the Maison du Vin, a prestigious wine institution dedicated to promoting the region’s finest wines. Explore the extensive collection of bottles from local producers and participate in informative tastings led by knowledgeable sommeliers. This is one of the best places to buy St Emilion wines.

Indulge your sweet tooth

Back in about 1620, Ursuline nuns in St-Emilion invented what has become known as the St-Emilion macaron. Made from ground almonds, sugar and egg whites – but without the garish colours of the more widely known version, and not sandwiched together with ganache – these delicate treats offer a taste of history with every bite. Visit Nadia Fermigier’s shop, renowned for its authentic St-Emilion macarons and a delightful array of other local sweet delicacies.

9 Rue Guadet, 33330 St-Emilion

How to get there

St-Emilion is about a 45-minute drive from Bordeaux city centre and 55 minutes from Bergerac in the Dordogne region. The two nearest airports are Bordeaux Airport in Mérignac and Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport in Bergerac. The town is served by both train, from Bordeaux’s Gare St Jean station, and by bus from outside the city’s tourism office.

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Located on the highest point overlooking the village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, this charming, peaceful and welcoming estate offers luxurious accommodation, an 18th-century exclusive-use château, Michelin star Les Belles Perdrix restaurant, and a state-of-the-art, family-friendly winery that creates an exceptional hospitality experience for wine enthusiasts and discerning travellers alike.

The estate’s roots trace back to 1745 when the property belonged to the Abbé de Sèze, who built the grand house still standing today. In 1850, Raymond Troplong created its flourishing vineyards with 37 hectares under vine, 27 of which are used to produce the estate’s grand vin and the rest for its second wine Mondot.

Troplong then changed hands twice, with much of its success and renown owed to Christine Valette-Pariente, who ran it alongside her husband Xavier Pariente for just over 30 years. In recognition of its rising critical acclaim, it was promoted in 2006 to the prestigious rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé in the St Emilion classification.

The estate was then acquired in 2017 by French insurance company SCOR for a reported €178m.

Significant investments have been made over the years starting with the onboarding of talented winemaker Aymeric de Gironde from St-Estèphe second growth Cos d’Estournel as well as bringing in a new winemaking consultant and increasing land holdings. Outwardly, ambitious renovation projects also started with Aymeric overseeing the modernisation of the winemaking facilities with a state-of-the-art vat room and stunning barrel room or ‘cathedral cellar’ with its 12-metre ceiling accentuated by beams of vertical lights and four concrete columns which suspend the glass walkway connecting either side.

Luxury accommodation

The château building has been restored to the highest standards possible with two lavish dining rooms, an incredible professional kitchen, five bedroom suites and a fully-stocked high-end wine cellar. A breathtaking Mediterranean-inspired pool offers unobstructed, panoramic views over the vineyards towards St-Emilion and its 12th century monolithic bell tower. Priced at €12,000 a night it’s not cheap, but it epitomises five-star hotel service (including a butler) while making it feel like you’re living in your own private residence.

Additional accommodation The Keys offers two one-bedroom and two, two-bedroom suites that are refined yet retain a rustic, countryside charm with three of the four in an annex adjacent to the main building. Each has its own patio for alfresco breakfasts or aperitifs as well as beautiful bathrooms and views of the 2ha park surrounding the château and the village beyond.

For extra privacy, opt for the quaint, two-bedroom, two-bathroom Vineyard House, perfect as a cosy bolthole in the winter with its open fire. In summer, look out over eye-level vines benefitting from the stunning sunset over the horizon.

Guests can either walk into the village of St-Emilion, or use electric bikes to cycle the short trip.

Tours, tasting and Michelin dining

Day visitors are also spoilt for choice. Immersive and family-friendly guided tours and tastings offer insights into the estate’s winemaking philosophy from grape to glass and provide a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into each bottle of Troplong Mondot. Guests can traverse the vines in an old Land Rover – passing horses who work the land instead of tractors – with wellies on hand in rainy weather. Kids are just as looked after too with their own wellies, miniature electric Land Rovers and activity books to keep them occupied while parents taste a range of the estate’s wines upstairs in the tasting room and on the deck overlooking the vineyards.

There is also an on-site shop selling wine, and estate-made produce including amazing honeys and chocolate sauces, as well as an area dedicated to the engraving of personalised bottles and wooden cases for gifts or keepsakes.

To satisfy culinary cravings, Château Troplong Mondot boasts an exceptional fine-dining experience at its one-Michelin-star restaurant, Les Belles Perdrix. Helmed by acclaimed head chef David Charrier and unbelievable pastry chef Adrien Salavert, the restaurant showcases the finest seasonal ingredients with meticulous attention to detail in a minimalist contemporary space. Diners are seated at tables with immersive views of the vines through floor-to-ceiling windows and of the rolling landscape from the outdoor terrace.

The encouragement and preservation of biodiversity is at the forefront of activities across the estate – not least in providing the restaurant with produce from the vegetable gardens, poultry and pig enclosures – but also to help the vineyards thrive. De Gironde and his team have ambitiously committed to carbon neutrality by 2050 with all electricity used generated sustainably by creating and burning pellets from removed vine shoots.

Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or simply seeking an idyllic retreat in the heart of Bordeaux‘s wine country, Château Troplong Mondot promises an unforgettable experience, where heritage, hospitality – and some of Bordeaux’s finest wines – come together in perfect harmony.

Château Troplong Mondot is located approximately 45 minutes by car from the city of Bordeaux. For further information, see the Château Troplong Mondot website.

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All Bordeaux 2023 coverage:

Verdict & top-scoring wines | How the weather conditions shaped the vintage | Decoding the yields | Wine styles: what to expect

Appellation analysis

St-Estèphe | St-Julien | Pauillac | Margaux | Pessac-Léognan | Pomerol | Haut-Médoc | Dry whites | Top value | Sauternes & Barsac

St-Emilion: The greatness of limestone and clay

St-Emilion average yields: 43.1hl/ha

St-Emilion Grand Cru average yields: 40.6hl/ha

Variance from 2022: -15% and -6% respectively

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion en primeur 2023 wines

Vintage overview

Widespread mildew pressure meant estates had to be extra vigilant and reactive in 2023. The appellation saw 239mm of rain from May to the end of September, although Beau-Séjour Bécot quoted 330mm of rain during the entire vegetation cycle.

In a speech to assembled media, Bordeaux oenologist Axel Marchal said that the 2023 vintage expressed the limestone and cool clay freshness especially well in St-Emilion, and indeed many of the best wines came from vineyards from the limestone plateau and the clay and limestone slopes.

The fortunate trend towards picking Merlots earlier and extracting less new oak tannin continues apace with an especially successful Château Pavie: the best en primeur sample since Gerard Perse took over the estate, as it expresses it’s A-grade terroir impeccably. Late summer heat waves proved more difficult for vines on sandier and lighter soils along the plains.

Standouts include Bélair-Monange, Beauseéjour (formerly Duffau-Lagarrosse), Canon and Figeac.

But one does not need to take out a mortgage for top wines in St-Emilion as consumers have multiple excellent Grand Crus Classés coming from limestone and clay, from Fonplégade, Rochebelle, Bellefront Belcier, Laroque, Lassègue and Ferrand among others.

See the top-scoring St-Emilion en primeur 2023 wines

Search all 500+ Bordeaux 2023 en primeur ratings published

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Having re-tasted more than 100 wines from St-Emilion there are undoubtedly some great wines on offer in 2021.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion 2021 in-bottle wines

Given the size of the appellation – almost 5,000ha, it’s no surprise that there are dramatic stylistic differences in the wines based on grape blends, terroirs and producer preferences. Some wines manage to convey a sense of plushness and chew alongside bright acidity like Châeaux Figeac, Cheval Blanc, Pavie and Angélus while other showcase tension and streamlined palates with lively fruit and racy acidity such as Trolong Mondot, Clos Fourtet, Beauséjour and Ausone.

Generally estates on high, clay and limestone terroirs fared well given the weather, as did those who could afford to reduce Merlot in favour of Cabernet (Sauvignon but also importantly Franc, which thrived in the wet conditions, giving gorgeous aromatics and silky tannins). Alcohol levels are also around 1-2% lower than recent vintages.

It was quite evident that many wines on sandy soils, or that had pushed ripeness and opted for heavy oak treatment delivered wines with rusticity and dryness. Quite a few wines are hollow and diluted on the mid-palate, lacking the richness usually found in St-Emilion, and some will need some time before the oak is fully integrated.

There were a number of wines that were both upgraded and downgraded in terms of score, a necessary outcome of giving a fixed score during Primeurs with the best showing an easy drinkability, lots of freshness and nothing harsh or too austere.

L’If was a complete standout offering great drinkability as was Larcis Ducasse, Fleur Cardinale, Villemaurine and Laroque which should all offer relatively good value too.

BORDEAUX 2021 IN BOTTLE SCORE TABLE: Top-scoring 133 wines with 93 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

St-Estèphe 2021 | Pauillac 2021 | Margaux 2021 | St-Julien 2021| Pomerol 2021 | Pessac & Graves 2021 | 

See tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion 2021 in-bottle wines

See all Bordeaux 2021 in-bottle wines in score order

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An original Premier Grand Cru Classé, since St-Emilion established its revisable classification in 1955, Clos Fourtet benefits from the unique clay-over-limestone plateau of the appellation. But it has never obtained the requisite promotion plaudits to reach the classification’s top tier.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a 19-vintage vertical of Clos Fourtet

When Château Angélus and Château Pavie joined the official Premier Grand Cru Classé A level ranking of long-time greats Château Ausone and Château Cheval Blanc in the classification’s 2012 edition, some thought of Clos Fourtet (along with Château Canon) on the limestone plateau as more obvious candidates.

Following the 2012 revision, for example, Franck Dubourdieu, of Bordeaux Classic Wine, criticised what he called the ‘anti-classical, modern, globalised style’ of Angélus and Pavie as compared to Canon and Clos Fourtet, ‘revered by the great amateurs of France and elsewhere, as having deserved promotion just as much if not more’.

By the 2022 ranking, controversy had mired the classification. One year before results of last year’s revision were determined, Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc criticised ranking criteria for excessive emphasis on product placement, how often an estate appears in media, along with wine tourism infrastructure. As a result, they left. Château Angélus, which for so many years publicised its hard-fought promotion to the A level, also left.

Today, only Château Pavie and Château Figeac, promoted last year, hold the A grade. But Clos Fourtet and Canon again did not reach that top level. This article focuses on Clos Fourtet, which hosted a 20-year vertical of wines reaching back to 2001, when Philippe Cuvelier acquired the property.

The vertical tasting at Clos Fourtet in April 2023 showed not only the high quality of the wines, but also the terroir. Given vintage differences, the Cuvelier family divided the tasting according to style. They dubbed one flight Les Frais, which included lighter years like 2002 and 2013. Another, Les Lumineux, included sunny vintages like 2003 and 2009. But every vintage reflected the inimitable freshness of the famous limestone plateau.

I can understand the logic of Dubourdieu. Even today, the limestone plateau lacks enough recognition, partly because ranking criteria do not stress terroir potential as much as it should. As for media attention, some participants at the vertical pointed out that as the estate rarely holds such tastings for media, Clos Fourtet had not generated the level of media buzz that Angélus or Pavie did ahead of their promotions in 2012.

As a result, one senses deficient market notoriety for a wine of such a high pedigree. In the US, buyers like Jeff Zacharia of Zachy’s in New York and Shaun Bishop of JJ Buckley in California profess lacking knowledge of the label. In answer to my question ‘What makes Clos Fourtet a special Premier Grand Cru Classé?’, Bishop replied: ‘I am not as familiar with Clos Fourtet, although I love the wines, and so not qualified to answer,’ while acknowledging that ‘the terroir is spectacular and the wines are always so good!’ Zacharia replied that he has not tasted enough recent vintages to comment on quality while respecting its ‘long history on the limestone terroir’.

Furthermore, even if Clos Fourtet has long exuded Merlot succulence with limestone minerality, the wines rarely obtained the high Parker points needed for higher pricing, another factor for promotion. At his height, US wine critic Robert Parker significantly influenced St-Emilion’s path to what critics called ‘Parkerised’ wines, crafted from ultra-ripe grapes, extracting excessive wood tannin. The revisable rankings necessarily are based on tastings of older vintages, when a particular style was predominant, even if these days people appreciate wines lighter in alcohol, with less new oak extraction.

‘We never try to follow fashion,’ says Clos Fourtet co-owner Matthieu Cuvelier, son of Philippe. Back then, the issue was being “Parkerised” but today, we are in an anti-Parker mode, in a “Duclotised” world, he says, referring to currently popular wine consultant Thomas Duclos, who favours earlier picking and less new oak extraction, with clients like Château Troplong Mondot, once known for picking grapes extra late and super high alcohol levels. In more recent years, Troplong Mondot has become a poster child for freshness. Cuvelier praises Duclos for ‘remarkable’ work for such estates that had gone too far in following the so-called Parker fashion.

Clos Fourtet in brief

13th century Originally a Middle Ages military fort

17th century First records of vineyards

1867 Name changes from Campfourtet to Clos Fourtet

Late 1800s Prize-winning winemaker Elie Rulleau earns medals featured on the label

1919 Ginestet family acquires the estate

1949 Lurton family acquires the estate

1955 Clos Fourtet ranked Premier Grand Cru Classé B, just behind Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc – and it has maintained this ranking ever since, although the B no longer exists

1973 André and Lucien Lurton take control of the estate with nephew Pierre Lurton

2001 Philippe Cuvelier, shareholder of Guilbert paper mills, purchases the estate

2001-2012 Cellar renovations and replanting programme

2013 Acquisition of Clos St-Martin, Les Grandes Murailles, Côte du Baleau

2014 Installation of stainless-steel tanks with a capacity varying from 40 to 70 hectolitres.

2022 Vineyard of Château Les Grandes Murailles merged into that of Clos Fourtet

Owner Philippe Cuvelier

Director Emmanuel de Saint-Salvy

Appellation and classification St-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

Surface 22ha of clay over limestone (20ha along the plateau and 2ha that once were Les Grandes Murailles)

Varieties 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

Planting density 6,000 to 9,200 vines per hectare

Average vine age 35 years

Consultants Stéphane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet

A belief in evolution rather than revolution saw the Cuvelier family hire Stéphane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet as consultants. Berrouet – especially famous for having directed winemaking at Petrus and other top Pomerol estates – has been saying for decades that higher alcohol leaches more tannin from new oak, risking overly oaky wines. ‘Thanks to Jean-Claude, we have been progressing in a direction of less new oak,’ says Cuvelier, ‘from 100% to 80%, then to 70% and around 60%, and in 2022, 40%.’ Meanwhile Derenoncourt helps especially with extractions, Cuvelier says. ‘He has insisted on working with pigeages (punch downs) rather than pumping over, taking a Burgundian approach with the result of more precision.’

And while a shift towards greater elegance has not been as dramatic as with some other estates, industry observers like Matthew O’Connell of London’s Bordeaux Index say that a ‘change of emphasis at Clos Fourtet has been impressive’ and that ‘we’ve noted that in vintages such as 2019 and 2022, where the risk of over-extraction and richness abounded, there is impressive clarity and elegance to the wine.’ Despite such praise, O’Connell says that the estate ‘remains a minor player in our Bordeaux distribution’.

Cooler vineyard advantage

An increasing advantage for Clos Fourtet in the climate change era is a cooler, northern exposure for part of its vineyard. Indeed, the estate was never among the first to harvest, Cuvelier says. Savvy buyers should note that hot vintages like 2003 were especially successful at Clos Fourtet, at least partly because of this northern vineyard aspect.

Furthermore, the wines should gain freshness with a plan to increase Cabernet Franc plantings. Back in the 1950s, the vineyard included 20% Cabernet Franc, but the Cuvelier family found that too much of that variety was not ‘qualitative enough’, or that it had been planted in the ‘wrong’ (cooler) part of the vineyard. In the last two decades, the Cuvelier family has replanted one-third of the vineyard, including replanting Cabernet Franc in the last 10 years.

Matthieu Cuvelier on the style of Clos Fourtet

‘We always have had suave and smooth fruit, with Merlot at the heart of the wine, lending velvety roundness and no aggression. The Cabernet Sauvignon driven wines of the Médoc are fantastic, but this heart of Merlot offers more roundness and friendly accessibility for wine lovers, which is a force for us. Just as important is maintaining the limestone typicity, which is not so easy. If you get too ripe, you lose that freshness. So, it is a question of balance, to retain that iodine freshness, that salinity. You must have winemaking to get a balance that is exactly right.’

The estate set up a plot of eight different Cabernet Franc clones, chosen from the Chambre d’Agriculture in Bordeaux and from ‘illustrious neighbours who prefer to be anonymous’, Cuvelier says. ‘We have been doing micro-vinification of all eight in recent years and now we have picked four that interest us and for which we planted 1.5ha, already in production.’

Will Clos Fourtet ever reach the coveted A grade? In the end, fans care less about the St-Emilion classification. ‘I love this wine, and again it is great in 2022,’ says Jeremy Stockman, managing director at Watson’s Wine in Hong Kong. ‘The classification system now means very little,’ he adds, referring to the controversies. ‘I think most consumers are confused over what it means and most importantly nowadays follow châteaux that they like.’ There is much to like in Clos Fourtet, not least of which an excellent price/quality ratio, as prices have not yet caught up with quality.

Clos Fourtet vertical: Notes and scores going back to 2001

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Like Beaune in Burgundy, St-Emilion seems to have more shops selling wine than anything else. A quick Google search reveals 58 different shops in the town alone, ranging in size and offering – some independent and others comprising a commercial empire of between three to 14 outlets all with the same owner. 

Whether you’re looking for Grand Cru Classé bottles from your birth year, wines from estates that no longer exist, or large formats of 3L and above, St-Emilion will have them.

The UNESCO World Heritage site is easily reached from Bordeaux city – roughly 45km away and a 45-minute drive from the airport (Mérignac) or train station (Gare St Jean) or a 30-minute train ride.

In recent years the town, and surrounding wineries, have fully embraced oenotourism, transforming shops and cellars into top tourist destinations.

A large number of estates have opened wine boutiques, and the majority of shops in town offer free daily tastings, sometimes with up to 40 wines open to taste at your leisure.

Many are filled with experienced and knowledgeable staff to help you pick out a bottle for a special occasion or memorable keep-sake from the trip. Almost every shop in the town offers shipping around the world and some will let you keep your wine purchases there for the day, or duration of your holiday, to pick up on your way home.

The cobbled streets fill up during the summer time (April-October) with people enjoying outdoor dining terraces, riding electric bikes through the nearby vineyards and sightseeing on the tourist train that ventures into the countryside revealing the history and culture of wine in the region, but the shops stay open all year long. Some close only for Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve so there’s never a wrong time to visit.

Part of the fun is going into a few to see for yourself, but below we’ve highlighted some of our favourites.

Maison du Vin de St Emilion

Situated at the top of town, this is a great place to stop at first. It’s both a wine shop and tourist information centre focused on the region’s wines. There are daily tastings available and a large selection of wines from both well-known and smaller estates on offer, ranging in price from €10.50 to over €1,000.

There is currently a large selection of 2011, 2012, 2015 and 2018 wines as well as some from the neighbouring appellations of Puisseguin St-Emilion and Montagne St-Emilion.

A 2005 Clos Fourtet is listed as €91, 1993 Château Figeac for €261 and Château Ausone 2002 for €1,100.

La Grand Cave

Opposite the historic restaurant L’Envers du Décor, owned by Château Pavie, is La Grand Cave – a large, bright and shiny shop filled with impressive icon bottles from the region including two huge wine fridges full of Left Bank first growths and top estates from the Right Bank.

Be sure to check out the cellar downstairs housing back vintages (see above) – and the oldest wine in stock (currently 1928) – as well as a range of old Burgundies, vintage Champagnes and large-format bottles.

You can also find lots of Armagnac and Cognac here as well as Riedel glasses and decanters.

Vignobles & Châteaux

An excellent wine store and négociant business full of large format bottles, Bordeaux white wines and back vintages. At the time of enquiring, the oldest bottle in stock was an 1895 Château Larcis Ducasse (it was previously an 1866 Château d’Yquem, but that was recently enjoyed by the sales team, I was told).

Look out for the ‘recent release’ tag at the bottom of many of the bottles – including a 1958 Clos Fourtet – signifying the bottle has not long come direct from the wine estate’s cellars, guaranteeing perfect provenance. There is also an impressive Petrus vertical from 1981-2019.

It also runs a wine bar on the corner opposite.

Comptoir des Vignobles

Just down the street, crowds gather to look at the placards outside this shop (above) featuring a list of birth years and the wine in stock. Indeed, when I was in there someone asked for any 1953s and after a quick look through the catalogue there were three different wines from the year.

Inside there’s an almost ‘pot-luck’ wall of wines, many of which are from lesser-known, humble estates from mature vintages dating back to 1959 at great prices.

It also has a great selection of Yquem, a Petrus 1951 for €4,262 and Château Mouton Rothschild 1964 for €2,760.

Marchand de Soif

One of the largest wine shops in the town with a lot of staff and more than 30 open bottles and wines in Enomatic machines to taste.

Prices start as low as €7 up to €7,000 and this carries new labels you may not find elsewhere (the first vintage of Nina Mitjavile’s Pitray, Les Prairies 2020 for instance).

Open 363 days a year, there is a huge selection of top Pomerol wines and a small cellar downstairs filled with older bottles. Some ‘hors Bordeaux wines’ sold via the Place de Bordeaux were also spotted with cases of Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta and Colore on offer.

Bordeaux Classique

This relatively small shop is filled with great bottles from estates that no longer exist including Château L’Arrosée 2011 (last vintage 2012, now part of Château Quintus) and Magdelaine 2001, 2003 and 2010 (last vintage also 2012 becoming subsumed into Château Bélair, now Bélair-Monange).

It has some allocation only bottles from Champagne and Burgundy as well as a huge collection of Darroze Armagnac.

It works with small estates such as La Voûte and can also arrange and accompany winery visits in the region.

Ets Martin

Same owner as La Grand Cave, but this has even more gems and underground cellars that can’t be missed. There are two rooms upstairs – the main filled with top labels from the left and right banks including fridges full of first growths – and a second room featuring smaller, local producers and some rare spirits and Champagnes.

The 15th-century cellar houses the older vintages from 1945-2005 as well as an incredible selection of Burgundies and large-format Champagnes.

Further inside, round the corner, you’ll find hidden treasures with drawers full of Petrus, Le Pin, Selosse and DRC as well as several rare Bordeaux cuvées including Château Angélus, Hommage à Elisabeth Bouchet.

The Wine Buff

Rated as the best wine shop in St-Emilion on several different platforms, owner Paddy O’Flynn and his wife Pilar run one of the most fun, friendly and informative shops in town.

Originally created to promote their large wine shop empire in Ireland, it has become a must-visit destination since opening in 2015. The store is filled with wines ‘they want to drink’ as well as several cuvées they personally select and blend from local estates (two St-Emilion wines, a Pomerol and a Margaux, with plans to increase the range).

The husband and wife team is full of knowledge and enthusiasm for the wines of the region and host courses and classes on wine tasting for novices and experts alike.

Located off the main thoroughfare, the shop features a bar and outdoor terrace.

Badon Boutique

A stunning space at the foot of the Badon Boutique Hotel, owned by local wine magnate and consultant Jean-Luc Thunevin, who also has a négociant business as well as several high-profile wine estates in the region, including Château Valandraud Premier Grand Cru Classé.

There are almost 10 shops owned by Thunevin in St-Emilion – two right next door to each other when you enter the town on Rue Guadet. You can usually spot one by the signage or bottles from the Bad Boy range in the window. The shops focus unsurprisingly on his own properties and branded labels as well as those at which he consults, and there’s a large range of prices with something for everyone.

The Badon Boutique is beautiful, presenting the bottles in custom cabinets like one would in one’s own dream cellar. Tastings are also possible inside.

La Cave du Marché & L’Emilion

These two shops have the same owner with the former (above) stocking a large selection of well-priced wines ‘from great vintages only’, the owner told me.

There were lots of 2000, 2005 and 2009 wines and, as they don’t work with tour operators taking commission, they are able to price the wines more competitively than some of their neighbours – Château Troplong Mondot 2019 was €93.60 for instance.

Les Cordeliers

If you’re craving something other than red wine be sure to visit the UNESCO listed 14th century Les Cordeliers, where AOC Crémant de Bordeaux has been produced for 120 years in St-Emilion.

The vast shop is filled with different cuvées – vintage, white and rosé – as well as gifts and trinkets to buy and take home.

There is also a cloister and garden which can be explored for free and a wine bar where you can purchase picnic hampers filled with regional specialities to enjoy with a glass or bottle of Les Cordeliers in the sunshine.

Guided tours of the winery and underground tunnels are also possible.

Les Caves Nature

If natural, organic and biodynamic wine is what you’re after, then stop here for a large selection of bottles from both Bordeaux and the rest of France. There’s a Bordeaux pét-nat, sparking Cabernet Franc and several amphora-aged wines on offer.

The owner is also a wine consultant for some of the estates.

St-Emilion chateaux that also have wine shops

Winery shops are also a great source of back-vintages and special bottles.

Château La Dominique: This château is known for its modern architecture and has a dedicated wine shop where you can purchase a large selection of its wines and wine accessories. Their panoramic restaurant La Terrasse Rouge is also worth checking out. 

Château de Pressac: Housing a charming boutique, this château also offers various tasting packages as well as a private tour with cold buffet or hot lunch. 

Château Fonplégade: Known for its picturesque location, this stunning château offers tours, tastings and a beautiful shop selling its wines. 

Château Soutard: This château welcomes visitors to explore both its cellars and tasting room as well as its nature trail. Opt for a full tour, food and wine pairings or a browse in its large shop. 

Other wine tourism options

Château Franc Mayne: Open for tours, tastings, buying wine and even overnight stays in the estate’s 18th century residence, Relais Franc Mayne, this is definitely worth a stop. 

Château La Tour Figeac: This château, close to the town, offers tours and tastings and the possibility of buying wine in-situ.

Château Laniote: Open all year round by appointment, this historic estate offers tours and tastings and a place to buy wines. 

Please keep in mind that the availability of wine shops and visiting experiences can change, so it’s a good idea to verify the current status and offerings of these châteaux before planning a visit. Additionally, asking locals or checking the official websites of these châteaux can provide you with the most accurate and up-to-date information.

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Georgie Hindle, Vincenzo Arnese and Arthur Coggill tasted 59 wines with 11 Outstanding and 41 Highly recommended.

St-Emilion GCC 2016: Panel tasting scores

59 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 11

Highly recommended 41

Recommended 7

Commended 0

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit 2016-vintage wines from St-Emilion at the grand cru classé and premier grand cru classé A and B levels according to the official Classification of 2012. Second wines (grand cru) of the property were also permitted.

Even having anticipated good results from one of the most highly regarded vintages in Bordeaux over the last two decades, all the judges summarised this as an ‘incredible tasting’ with ‘no bad wines’ among those tasted. It’s a testament to the confidence of estates (and their regard for Decanter’s tasting process) that they were happy to send their critically acclaimed, and in some cases extremely expensive wines to be judged blind for one of our panel tastings, and I am so grateful to them that they did.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the St-Emilion GCC 2016 panel tasting

In this instance, many wines delivered on an expectation of greatness, with both Arthur Coggill and Vincenzo Arnese admiring the ‘consistency of quality’ across the board. ‘It was a great tasting – a set of really succulent, well-formed wines that you just want to take home and enjoy,’ Coggill remarked. Arnese agreed on the ‘clear drinkability on offer’, especially among those that demonstrated a ‘more juicy, delicate, playful aspect with freshness and excellent oak integration’.

‘It was a vintage with abundant tannin potential and the key was how they were managed,’ Arnese observed. ‘The best wines were those that had seamless tannins and where the oak spice was complementary, lifting the expression rather than dominating it,’ said Coggill.

Many wines revealed terroir nuance, racy acidity and fruit purity. Arnese remarked that ‘there seemed to be a confidence in them that delivered a certain less-is-more style – the others maybe wanted to show more-is-more’, which resulted in some cases of extreme power, concentration, overextraction or overmaturity.

Judges were unaware of wines’ classification status during the tasting, yet the results show a correlation between the quality tiers, with only one non-premier grand cru classé estate among the 11 top-scoring wines, and seven of the 10 second wines present having correspondingly lower scores at 88-90 points.

The judges noted a clear step up in quality at the 95pt mark, with wines demonstrating better integration of oak and tannin management as well as general focus, vibrancy and structure. Many of these wines have decades of drinking pleasure ahead of them.

See all 59 wines from the St-Emilion GCC 2016 panel tasting

‘If you love St-Emilion it’s worth picking up the middle tranche of wines [92pts upwards] or spending a bit more for the top-scoring wines,’ Coggill said. Do keep in mind though that in many instances you’ll need to purchase these wines in full-case quantities and possibly in bond. Many of these wines are just entering the beginning of their drinking windows, so as stocks begin to dwindle it underlines the appeal of purchasing early, en primeur – a consideration for the newly released 2022s – and serves as a good guide for those of you who have these wines in your cellar.

Some estates and Bordeaux négociants do also keep reserve stocks, so you can, if you wish, try contacting them directly, or otherwise ask your merchant to assist.

St-Emilion GCC 2016 panel tasting scores

The judges

Georgie Hindle is Decanter’s regional editor for Bordeaux and Burgundy, and editor of Decanter Premium online. She lives in Bordeaux.

Vincenzo Arnese is the newly appointed director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he specialised in sommellerie at hospitality school, then worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, as well as in London at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester.

Arthur Coggill is associate director and fine wine buyer at Goedhuis & Co, Decanter Retailer Awards 2022 Bordeaux Specialist winner. He started in wine at Majestic before moving into fine wine trading in 2010, joining Goedhuis & Co in 2013 and running its sister investment fund Vintage Capital for eight years, before moving solely to buying in 2021.

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St-Emilion 2022

Average yield:

• Average yield 41.2hl/ha, +10.7% relative to the 10-year average of 37.2hl/ha.
• Yield in 2021 27.9hl/ha which was a decrease of 30% from 2020.

Rainfall during the vintage in mm and % relative to the 10 year average:

• Pre-budburst (Nov-March) 558mm (+14.8%)
• Véraison to harvest (August-October) 67.7mm (-44.0%).
• Total: 886.1mm (-1.9%)

What you find from the 2022 wines

With close to the 10 year average of rain (including almost 15% more rain in winter than usual) and the only appellation to receive above average yields in 2022, St-Emilion was a clear success story with a high probability of finding excellent value and drinkability.

Given the appellation’s size and lack of terroir homogeneity, there are wines covering every outcome of decision making with some that are plush and jammy made from grapes clearly picked too late and some lean, green and austere having been picked too early.

Alcohol levels are slightly higher, alongside Pomerol, than elsewhere though acidities tend to be on the lower side lending a racy, freshness to counter the ripe fruit. There’s no doubt however that St-Emilion produced several contenders for ‘wine of the vintage’ with plenty to choose from at every price point.

Certainly the wines on the limestone plateau and clay-limestone terroirs seemed to cope very well. Wines recently upgraded in the new classification take effect from the 2022 vintage.

See all 187 St-Emilion 2022 tasting notes and scores

Top picks:

• Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse (98-100 points)
• Château Cheval Blanc  (98-100 points)
• Château Figeac (98-100 points)
• Château Troplong Mondot (98-100 points)
• Château Canon
• Château Ausone
• Château Angélus
• Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
• Château Bélair-Monange
• Château Pavie
• Château Pavie Macquin
• Château Valandraud
• Château Trotte Vieille
• La Mondotte
• Château Laroque
• Château Fleur Cardinale
• Château Bellefont-Belcier
• Le Dôme
• Château Larcis Ducasse 
  

See the top-scoring St-Émilion 2022 en primeur wines

Search all Bordeaux 2022 en primeur ratings published so far

Back to the main Bordeaux en primeur page

A large number of extremely good quality and exciting wines from St-Emilion in 2020 from estates on water-retaining soils that gave enough nourishment to the vines at critical times. The best are extremely aromatic with floral and ripe fruit scents, richly concentrated and deep cores with silky smooth, well-integrated tannins.

The less successful wines however show austerity, tightness and lean harsh tannins and / or extremely high alcohols with some above 15% and even 15.5% ABV. Harvesting at the right time and careful extraction were key here in 2020.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion 2020 in-bottle wines

Average yields in St-Emilion in 2002 were 36.7hl/ha, lower than 2018 at 39.7hl/ha and 2019 at 43hl/ha with a 10-year-average of 39.1hl/ha.

Spring was warm and humid with February, April and May warmer than average (3.5°C , and 2.2°C respectively) which caused a large onset of mildew. Estates also saw two nights of localised frost at the end of March with generally rainy conditions throughout the month. From early April the weather remained hot, sunny and dry, with a drought period lasting 55 days between June 20 and August 9-10. Crucially, some vines saw rain between 9-14 August helping restart growth. Nevertheless, some grapes were raisened leading to crop losses. An early and quick harvest started in the first half of September in some estates with sunny, warm, dry days and cool nights giving maturity and freshness to the grapes. Rain came at the end of September.

For Frédéric Faye, managing director at Château Figeac, the ‘main risk was to maintain freshness and gentle extraction’.

‘2020 is the most complete of the three warm vintages’ he said, adding ‘maybe due to the knowledge we have now it is the most precise. We learned a lot from the previous vintages and so we managed the extraction, choice of barrel and ageing a little differently.’

The 2020 vintage at Figeac was produced in a temporary cellar but with new vats of varying sizes, all of which were incorporated into the finalised building for the 2021 vintage.

At Château Cheval Blanc, technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet explained that the use of cover crop for the first time helped decrease the ground temperatures in the vineyards and helped retain water more efficiently to preserve humidity.

‘It was important to use not to have soil that was ploughed, not to have too much heat on the soil and not to let all the water run off straight away,’ he said.

‘We had to pay huge attention to achieve a balanced veraison with careful morning-side leaf pulling. We want to pick the grapes at the best time, when everything is fresh, for this we need optimum homogeneity throughout the season.’

When it came to harvest Clouet said; ‘The second important point was the capacity to pick quickly. For me, it was like cooking, when you have the meat in the casserole and the flame is high, the speed of maturation is not the same if the flame is low. We picked every day from the third of September and every day we had the sensation that the day before was better. It was almost 36 degrees celsius outside with 14 hours of sun per day and 53 plots to pick – we ran in the vines.

‘The challenge was how to compensate the excess – the alcohol, the power of the tannins, the density of the fruit. We had cold chambers for the grapes and 14 different sized tanks to match with the plots. No cool maceration but low temperature fermentations’.

A total of 17% of the yield was declassified by Cheval Blanc in 2020. ‘In an excessive year you can’t use a large proportion of your vines because they don’t have the roots to support the excess drought. When vines are less than 10 years old in a dry summer they suffer,’ he said.

Top 12 St-Emilion 2020 wines:

Château Troplong Mondot, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 100 points

Château Bélair-Monange, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 99 points

Château Canon, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 99 points

Château Ausone, (1er Grand Cru Classé A), 98 points

Château Cheval Blanc, (1er Grand Cru Classé A), 98 points

Château Figeac, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 98 points

Château Larcis Ducasse, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 98 points

Château Angélus, (1er Grand Cru Classé A), 97 points

Château Pavie, (1er Grand Cru Classé A), 97 points

Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 97 points

Château Pavie Macquin, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 97 points

Clos Fourtet, (1er Grand Cru Classé B), 97 points

SCORE TABLE: top-scoring 349 wines with 92 points or above

Individual appellation analysis and top-scoring wines

Margaux 2020 | St-Julien 2020| Pauillac 2020 | Pessac & Graves 2020 | St-Emilion 2020 | Pomerol 2020 | 

See all Bordeaux 2020 in-bottle wines in score order

See tasting notes and scores for the top St-Emilion 2020 in-bottle wines

The following wines all scored 95 points or above. 

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St-Emilion’s Wine Council announced its eagerly-anticipated ranking this afternoon, bringing a decade of disputes and court battles to an end.

The classification awards Premier Grand Cru Classé A status to just two producers, while it also recognises 12 Premier Grands Crus Classés (B) and 71 Grands Crus Classés.

These rankings can cause a winery’s value to soar – they have been likened to the Michelin guide for restaurants – so winemakers across the region awaited the results with bated breath today.

However, many were left disappointed, as Château Figeac was the only producer to join Château Pavie in the top tier of the 2022 classification.

A dream realised

Château Figeac, which has been owned by the same family since 1892, said the result rewarded ‘sustained work over many years, a strong identity, the exceptional qualities of our terroir, the excellent wines we produce each vintage, and our singularity within St-Emilion and Bordeaux’.

The family said it was the dream of owner Thierry Manoncourt, who passed away aged 92 in 2010, to see Figeac ‘in the right place’. That dream has now been realised.

His wife, Marie-France Manoncourt, said: ‘We welcome this decision with pride and gratitude. We will continue to bring happiness to lovers of great wines.’

Hortense Idoine-Manoncourt, Thierry’s daughter and president of Château Figeac, added: ‘For our family and the Château Figeac team, this distinction is a recognition of the work accomplished over several decades.

‘It is a commitment just as much to our devotees as to the St-Emilion appellation or the INAO [the Institut national de l’origine et de la quality, which supports the process] and constitutes a formidable incentive to continue, as always, our work in the spirit of rigour and excellence.’

Château Figeac’s average market price has risen by 47% in the past three years, according to data compiled by Liv-ex.

It said the best-performing vintages in the past year have been 2013, 2008 and 2005. Cheval Blanc, Angélus, Pavie and Ausone – the four Premier Grand Cru Classé A estates from the 2012 St-Emilion Classification – have been the most traded St-Emilion wines on Liv-ex so far in 2022, but Figeac and Canon were next on the list.

Figeac was tipped to be promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A at this year’s classification, and that caused sales to spike before the announcement.

Matthew O’Connell, chief executive of Bordeaux Index’s trading platform, said: ‘Figeac really benefited from the dual factors of the potential classification upgrade and the ongoing excellent quality of recent vintages having taken the wine’s reputation in the market to another level.’

A decade of controversy

The St-Emilion classification is updated every 10 years. In 2012, it assigned Premier Grand Cru Classé A status to four châteaux – Angélus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Pavie.

However, Angélus, Ausone and Cheval Blanc decided to withdraw from the 2022 classification, leaving only Pavie in the top tier.

Cheval Blanc claimed it noticed ‘a profound change in the philosophy of the classification’ in 2012, citing ‘marketing drift such as the importance of product placement, how often an estate appears in media, including PR and in social media, along with wine tourism infrastructure’, and said they no longer wanted to be considered.

Essentially, the esteemed producers complained that marketing – placing a bottle in a Hollywood film, bringing in a renowned architect to design the cellar and so on – has become as important in the classification as how the wines taste.

We have witnessed various legal wranglings over the past decade, and Château Angélus co-owner Hubert de Boüard was fined €60,000 after a court decided he illegally manipulated the system in 2012, a decision he condemned as ‘an injustice’.

In June, the historic Château La Gaffelière – ranked Premier Grand Cru Classé B – dealt a fresh blow to the 2022 St-Emilion classification system by joining the exodus from this year’s ranking. It said that ‘we no longer recognise ourselves in this system’ and that ‘now is the time to bow out’.

However, experts in the region suggested that this year’s classification had more entries than ever before.

The Classification Commission revealed that it tasked a panel of 43 experts with tasting 1,343 samples over a four-month period before providing the results. The testing organisation Bureau Veritas Certification France supported the process, along with the INAO.

St-Emilion’s Wine Council insisted that the classification has been ‘loyal to its principles and fundamentally stable since 1955, and thus offers wine drinkers all over the world a guarantee of lasting exceptional quality’.

‘We would like to congratulate all the properties that feature in this new classification of St-Emilion wines and the people, who work on them, because this is truly an outstanding human adventure that relies on teamwork,’ said Jean-François Galhaud, president of the St-Emilion Wine Council.

‘Without a terroir and committed women and men, there can be no great wine. There is no doubt that this new classification will continue to lend prominence to the name of St-Emilion abroad.’

The 12 Premier Grands Crus Classés (B) are:

• Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
• Château Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse
• Château Bélair Monange
• Château Canon
• Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
• Château Larcis Ducasse
• Château Pavie Macquin
• Château Troplong Mondot
• Château Trottevieille
• Château Valandraud
• Clos Fourtet
• La Mondotte

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• Stephen Brook: ‘It is astonishing how rapidly changes can take place in the Bordeaux region’
• Best St-Émilion 2021 wines tasted en primeur

St-Émilion 2021

Average yield:

• 27.9hl/ha. A decrease of 30% from 2020.

What you find from the 2021 wines

Some exceptional stand outs in St-Emilion in 2021 though a mixed bag overall – unsurprising given its size.

Generally estates on high, clay and limestone terroirs fared well given the weather, as did those who could afford to reduce Merlot in favour of Cabernet (Sauvignon but also importantly Franc which thrived in the wet conditions giving gorgeous aromatics and silky tannins).

Lower sandy soils had a harder time from frost and there were lots of wines that were hollow and diluted in the mid palate.

Top picks:

• Château Figeac
• Château Cheval Blanc
• Château Canon
• Château Troplong Mondot
• Château Ausone
• Château Angélus
• Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse
• Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
• Château Bélair-Monange
• Château Pavie
• Château Pavie Macquin
• Château Valandraud
• Château Trotte Vieille
• La Mondotte
• Château Fleur Cardinale
• Château Bellefont-Belcier
• Le Dôme
• Château Larcis Ducasse 
  

See the top-scoring St-Émilion 2021 en primeur wines

Search all Bordeaux 2021 en primeur ratings published so far

Back to the main Bordeaux en primeur page

To describe the revisable St-Emilion classification as turbulent – and in recent months it has seen three out of the four highest-ranked, premier grand cru classé A estates withdraw – would be an understatement.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 16 wines from St-Emilion estates worthy of promotion

Unlike the static 1855 classification of Médoc (excepting the 1973 promotion of Château Mouton Rothschild to first growth status), that of St-Emilion is updated every decade or so. The previous revision in 2012 – the sixth since the original in 1955 – counts 64 grand cru classé and 18 premier grand cru classé estates; although that will now be 15, since Châteaux Angélus, Ausone and Cheval Blanc withdrew, leaving only Château Pavie with the coveted ‘A’ grade.

How it works

The St-Emilion appellation consists of two categories: St-Emilion and St-Emilion grand cru.

The classification, however, bestows prestige on estates ranked grand cru classé (GCC), and even more on those ranked premier grand cru classé (1GCC), with the ‘A’ specification at the very top (the former ‘B’ status no longer officially exists).

While the French national appellation authority INAO wrote in an email that it ‘does not give out such information’, sources in the appellation say that 114 applications have been submitted this time, with results to be made public in September this year.

Estates cannot sit on their laurels, as dossiers must be submitted to maintain prior rankings: The €14,000 application fee applies to maintain (or be promoted to) a GCC rank. An additional €7,000 is then needed in order to be considered for premier status. So, for example, a first growth from the 2012 classification must pay €21,000 at least to be able to maintain its ranking. It is unclear how many non-GCC have applied for promotion this year, but all ranked estates have likely sent applications.

Upping the taste factor

In a major change from 2012, the 2022 edition stipulates that performance in blind tastings by an independent panel counts for 50% of the overall grade for those vying for 1GCC, compared to just 30% previously. Forty independent tasters assess 10 vintages, 2010 to 2019, for all applications to be considered GCC, and five more for 1GCC (2005 to 2019), according to Conseil des Vins de St-Emilion wine council general director Franck Binard. The tastings are held blind in horizontals comparing applicant estates for each vintage.

Reputation, such as media coverage, counts for 35% of the tally, with 10% for terroir quality and 5% for winemaking techniques, as assessed by a commission of seven independent members from outside Bordeaux. A minimum score of 14 out of 20 is required to be GCC, and 16 out of 20 to achieve 1GCC. Obtaining the top ‘A’ level is ‘based on exceptional wine ageing ability and reputation, as determined by the commission’, Binard says.

With the absence of three of the leading estates, the ranking risks sharing the fate of the Médoc’s cru bourgeois classification, which lacks such top non-classified wines as Château Haut Marbuzet (St-Estèphe) and Château Poujeaux (Moulis), among others. But one could compare the classification to Wimbledon tennis: top players may for some reason not participate, but the games go on because they have value. As Blandine de Brier Manoncourt, co-owner of Château Figeac 1GCC, has stressed: the classification ‘remains very useful, acting as a booster for the entire appellation’.

But what about fashion? St-Emilion until around 2017 was dominated by what many critics call a ‘modern style’ of over-extracted new oak tannins and ultra-ripe Merlots harvested late, with high potential alcohol. In more recent years, talk of less new oak, the use of clay amphorae for freshness, and stressing elegance is all the rage. But when the ‘modern style’ peaked, between 2009 and 2015, exceptions such as Châteaux Canon, Corbin, Figeac and Fonroque among some others seemed few and far between.

So how will the 2022 tasting jury account for the change in style when, for example, assessing a rather tired and drying Château Fonplégade 2005 alongside the brilliant and elegant Fonplégade 2019: should that estate be considered for elevation to premier grand cru classé?

For this article, I was tasked with picking two estates to recommend within each category – grand cru classé, premier GCC and premier GCC A – which, in my opinion, are most deserving of an upgrade in the forthcoming classification.

My promotion preferences include estates with worthy terroirs that have stuck to a consistent style in pursuit of excellence.

Many estates have improved in recent years, but for reasons of space, we could only have six in total for the magazine article. However, I have listed two additional properties and the reasons for their selection below for Decanter Premium.

The Kakaviatos selection: St-Emilion estates fit to ascend the ranks

T0 1er Grand Cru Classé A

• Château Figeac
• Château Canon

T0 1er Grand Cru Classé

• Château Rochebelle
• Château Fonroque
• Château Fonplégade
• Château Fleur Cardinale

T0 Grand Cru Classé

• Famille Vauthier, Château Moulin Saint-Georges
• Vignobles K, Château Tour Saint Christophe

Premier ‘A’: Who deserves it?

Château Figeac

From a pure terroir perspective, Château Figeac should already have been promoted to ‘A’ status. A vertical tasting I attended in 2021 at the château, reaching back to 1947, reflects the estate’s unique gravel soils bordering Pomerol as consistently yielding wines of exceptional finesse and refinement. Insiders suggest that Figeac’s traditional blend of two parts Cabernet (Franc and Sauvignon) and one part Merlot can make the wine seem more difficult to understand in early years, when compared in blind tastings to more sumptuous, Merlot-dominated blends from other estates.

For managing director Frédéric Faye, the château – one of the original premiers from 1955 – ‘always produced great wines’, but recent fine-tuning has improved tannin finesse and aromatic expression, while preserving the ‘great ageing potential and Figeac identity’, he says. Since 2012, for example, Figeac has a more flexible blending policy that varies according to the vintage, rather than sticking to a set formula.

New cellar installations ensure cool and humid year-round temperatures for oak ageing. A semi-underground area holds eight oak fermentation vats to complement 40 new stainless steel vats designed to ferment corresponding harvest selections. This should make even more precise wines – as tasted in one of the most impressive 2021 barrel samples this year from the challenging vintage. I would suggest buying Château Figeac before prices go up once it is (likely) promoted to ‘A’.

Château Canon

The case for Château Canon – another estate that counts among the original premiers from 1955 – is evident at least since the early 2000s. The Wertheimer family of Chanel purchased a sleeping beauty in 1996, as the estate needed revamping and repair, including cleaning up a winery TCA contamination [the compound responsible for ‘cork taint’ in wines] among other problems. But that is a distant memory. Following huge investment and renovations some 10 years ago, Château Canon – with 90% of its vineyard on the famous limestone plateau – crafts pure and delicate wines dominated by Merlot, with impressive length.

‘Year in, year out, the terroir has a kind of metronomic precision and elegance, with density and homogeneity from the vineyard,’ remarks director Nicolas Audebert, who in 2014 replaced John Kolasa, responsible for having taken the initial steps to revamp the estate when the Wertheimers arrived. Canon is not the most ‘powerful’ wine of St-Emilion, Audebert adds, but rather one of ‘airy elegance, with tension and freshness’.

When I ask him about former A-grade Château Cheval Blanc, Audebert says that it has ‘an orchestral style, with more types of soil, whereas we are more like a solo violinist’. Whatever the tune, Canon makes A-grade music.

GCC premier potential

It was very hard to pick among the scores of existing GCCs vying for the ‘premier league’.

Many do excellent work, and I could have added more than just two, but these two estates have been quietly pursuing refined excellence without having tried to attract high scores from critics when the ‘modern style’ was fashionable: Château Rochebelle and Château Fonroque.

Château Rochebelle

The small, 3ha Château Rochebelle, with vines growing on the limestone plateau, was under the radar until it became GCC in 2012. Private wine buyers scored it highly in a blind horizontal that I organised in Washington DC of 2000 vintage St-Emilion wines, which included premiers. Owned by the Faniest family since 1925, and currently under the direction of Philippe and daughter Emilie, Château Rochebelle never got high scores from fans of ‘big’ styled wines, but rather focused on making wines of iodine freshness, underscored by bright blackberry and plum with touches of dark chocolate. Since 2016, it has gained both precision and density, with an eco-friendlier approach.

The estate recently carried out a massal selection (replanting new vineyards with cuttings from exceptional old vines from the estate) of old Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines to better preserve its genetic vineyard heritage.

Château Fonroque

Also somewhat under the radar, and yet GCC since 1955, Château Fonroque crafts wines with pure limestone ‘minerality’ that appeal to lovers of freshness and refinement. A pioneer in St-Emilion for eco-winemaking, it was certified organic in 2006 and biodynamic in 2008. Owned since 2017 by the Guillard family with Alain Moueix as consultant, Fonroque’s 18ha vineyard benefits from having vines along the limestone plateau, on the slope and the foot of the slope, permitting flexibility for each vintage. A stunning new tasting room opened this year, leading to revamped cellar space.

Because of Covid-19, the new winery became fully functional just in time for the 2021 vintage, with 22 concrete vats of different sizes that correspond to 22 vineyard parcels. Ageing is carried out in 30% new oak, yielding wine of fruit purity, subtle and refined, leading to long, salty and fresh finishes.

Honourable mentions must also go to two GCC estates that, in recent years, have been crafting wines of premier level quality, and to which the jury surely would give consideration: Château Fleur Cardinale has been consistent in a ‘modern style’, but never ‘over the top’, earning plaudits from critics; while Château Fonplégade, certified organic (in 2013) and biodynamic (2020), has carried out an amazing turnaround to produce wines that also make it worthy of promotion.

Two additional contenders

Château Fleur Cardinale

Having obtained the Grand Cru Classé moniker in 2012, the 23.5-hectare Château Fleur Cardinale again deserves promotion. It enjoys cooler clay over limestone soils some 10-minutes-drive southeast from the St-Emilion centre, in St-Etienne-de-Lisse. While it may seem more oak driven than the three other estates, it has enjoyed market success for at least the last 15 years, with polished, fine wines that the tasting jury will especially appreciate.

Assessing a vertical in the estate’s new tasting room this past April, I could not help but admire the energy and commitment to quality of co-owners Ludovic Decoster and wife Caroline, who explained their more precise harvesting since 2017, better temperature control for fermentation tanks in a new vat room since 2019 – and gradual dialling down of new oak, to 90% starting in 2020, with the emphasis of more careful barrel selections from different coopers.

Château Fonplégade

When co-owner Diane Adams drove me up the impressive St-Emilion slope of Château Fonplégade in April this year, leading to part of the limestone plateau, the terroir potential is obvious near Premier neighbours like Canon and Bélair-Monange. Meticulous attention to organic (certified in 2013) and biodynamic (certified in 2019) winemaking at this 18.5-hectare vineyard has been matched by careful pickings and thoughtful replanting and many tools to better reflect the terroir in the vat room.

The harvest is gravity fed to various fermentation vessels, including truncated cement vats, amphorae and wooden vats. Adams stresses greater elegance in recent years: ‘When we first came here, it was 100% new oak, but now we have worked our way down to 40%’, she stresses.

Could be classed

Château Tour Saint Christophe

Part of Peter Kwok’s Vignobles K group since 2012, Château Tour Saint Christophe has been consistently excellent as evidenced by a 2010-2019 vertical I assessed at the estate this past April. In the commune of St-Christophe-des- Bardes on the edge of St-Emilion, 20ha of vines grow on red clay and astéries (‘starfish’) limestone, yielding wines of freshness and depth at the agreeable price point of about £24 a bottle in bond. Planted along narrow terraces, with vines tended in tight rows facing south-southwest, the scenery includes a small forest.

Wines have especially shone since 2015, when cellars were renovated and redesigned to reflect parcel-by-parcel harvesting, and 6ha of primarily limestone terroir acquired that same year have increased finesse, as reflected since the superb 2016 vintage. The wine obtains deservedly high marks from most critics.

Château Moulin Saint-Georges

Owned by the Vauthier family (of Château Ausone) since 1921, the 7ha of vines of Château Moulin Saint-Georges grow on clay and limestone soils, facing south, located between Ausone and Château La Gaffelière. Crafted with the same care as at Ausone, the wine ought to be classé, but the owners have decided to opt out of the classification.

While Château Ausone itself is dominated by Cabernet Franc, Château Moulin Saint-Georges is more ‘typically’ St-Emilion, with mostly Merlot. Co-owner Pauline Vauthier supervises winemaking, with fermentation in stainless steel vats followed by ageing for 15-18 months in 80% new barrels, resulting in excellent oak integration.

Pauline says: ‘We have not changed methods recently.’ Why should she? The wine is delicious – and very popular in the UK market, priced at about £30-£35 retail.

More on the St-Emilion promotion contenders

In addition to the six wines featured in the magazine article, an extra tasting note for each estate is listed below, as well as two each for Château Fleur Cardinale and Château Fonplégade.

See tasting notes and scores for 16 wines from St-Emilion estates worthy of promotion

The wines are listed in pairs in descending vintage order

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The historic estate follows in the footsteps of Châteaux Angélus, Cheval Blanc and Ausone by withdrawing its candidacy from the upcoming classification.

The Malet-Roquefort family, which has owned Château La Gaffelière for more than 300 years, said it ‘no longer recognises its values’ in the new criteria.

The Malet-Roqueforts claimed that the overhauled rating system for the tasting ‘contradicts all the ratings obtained by Château La Gaffelière for several years by the greatest wine professionals’.

‘Now is the time to bow out,’ said the family in a statement. ‘We no longer recognise ourselves in this system to which we are historically attached and which has honoured us for a long time.

‘We will continue our work as winegrowers, as it has been transmitted to us, in respect of the prestigious terroir of St-Emilion, by producing wines faithful to our image, recognised and appreciated by wine lovers all over the world.’

The St-Emilion classification is updated every 10 years. In 2012, it assigned Premier Grand Cru Classé A status to four châteaux – Angélus, Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Pavie.

Of that quartet, only Château Pavie remains. Upon announcing its withdrawal, Angélus said the classification had become ‘a vehicle for antagonism and instability’. Co-owner Hubert de Boüard was fined €60,000 after a court decided he illegally manipulated the system in 2012, a decision he condemned as ‘an injustice’.

Châteaux Cheval Blanc and Ausone said that they noticed ‘a profound change in the philosophy of the classification’ in 2012, citing ‘marketing drift such as the importance of product placement, how often an estate appears in media, including PR and in social media, along with wine tourism infrastructure’, and said they no longer wanted to be a part of it.

Château La Gaffelière, which is currently ranked Premier Grand Cru Classé B, doubled down on that criticism in its statement.

It suggested that the new approach ‘calls into question the quality level of a terroir that has been acclaimed and distinguished by the AOC wine authorities for more than 65 years’ and said it is withdrawing without even requesting a new examination of the file and without asking to be heard by the commission.

St- Emilion’s Wine Council has said it regrets the withdrawals but it defended the process for the 2022 Classification. It claims that the new ranking system can serve as ‘a formidable tool for challenge, innovation and modernity’.

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Bordeaux’s administrative court of appeal has effectively validated the St-Emilion 2012 Classification after rejecting long-standing complaints from three châteaux.

France’s national appellation body, INAO, said the decision upholds an original court ruling from 2015. It added the complainants still have two months in which to appeal the judgement, however.

Legal challenges to the St-Emilion 2012 Classification have been a feature of the past decade in Bordeaux.

INAO said it was ‘reassured’ by the latest appeal court ruling.

It said it is pressing ahead with work on the 2022 edition of the ranking system, which was conceived in the 1950s and is revised every 10 years.

Separately, however, the upcoming St-Emilion 2022 Classification process has been hit by high-profile withdrawals.

Châteaux Angélus, Cheval Blanc and Ausone have all independently said that they do not wish to be part of the process for the new ranking.

They represent three of the four ‘Premier Grand Cru Classé A’ estates from 2012, when Angélus and Château Pavie were promoted to join Cheval Blanc and Ausone at the top of the hierarchy.

St-Emilion’s Wine Council has said it regrets the withdrawals but it defended the process for the 2022 Classification.

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After tasting more than 800 Bordeaux 2019 wines in bottle, Georgie Hindle has given her verdict on how the wines are tasting now.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 136 St-Emilion wines tasted.

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Bordeaux 2019 in bottle: overview and top-scoring wines

Photo highlights: Bordeaux 2019 in bottle

Château Angélus’ announcement that it is withdrawing from the process to create the 2022 St-Emilion Classification has sent shockwaves through the region and raised questions about the ranking’s future form. 

With Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc having announced their withdrawal last year, three of the top-ranking ‘Premier Grand Cru Classé A’ estates from the last edition of the St-Emilion Classification in 2012 will not be candidates for the revised ranking, due this year. 

Angélus cited legal disputes related to the ranking as partly influencing its decision to withdraw its candidacy for 2022.

‘From a collective point of view, we regret it,’ said Jean-François Galhaud, president of St-Emilion’s wine council, of Angélus’ decision. But Galhaud emphasised that the classification must go on as scheduled.

‘As the 2022 classification is being drawn up, it is up to us to look to the future and to respect the important work carried out by the French national appellation authority (INAO), in order to allow this revisable classification to be a formidable tool for challenge, innovation and modernity,’ he wrote in an emailed statement. 

Shaun Bishop, CEO of merchant JJ Buckley in California, played down the drama of St-Emilion, pointing out that consumers and collectors focus on brand, quality, consistency, and resulting appreciation over time. ‘We pay much less attention to rankings and classifications,’ he said. 

For the estates themselves, promotion (and demotion) matters, as it can more readily influence price. The move by Château Angélus, which both backed, and has benefitted, from the rankings, has come as a shock, says Philippe Faniest, owner of St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé Château Rochebelle. ‘It cannot possibly be good for the appellation’ he said because it ‘raises so many questions’. 

Matthieu Cuvelier, of Premier Grand Cru Classé Clos Fourtet, said, ‘If others follow suit, this could be the end of the classification.’ 

Yet some estates were quick to reply that Angélus’ withdrawal would in no way stop them from supporting the classification, which is renewed every 10 years.

Blandine de Brier Manoncourt, co-owner of the Premier Grand Cru Classé Château Figeac, stressed that the classification ‘remains very useful, acting as a booster for the entire appellation’.

The decade-long revision ‘forces us to think, to improve our practices, in the cellar as well as in the vineyard, or in our way of welcoming people, to question ourselves, to formalise our commitments; it is a useful deadline and it benefits everyone,’ she said. 

Some industry sources expressed surprise that Château Angélus would want to leave the ranking. Ben Giliberti, former Washington Post wine columnist and currently director of wine education at Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits in Washington, D.C., said Angélus had ‘benefitted more than most by the official classification in terms of prestige’. 

Angélus was one of two estates promoted from Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘B’ to ‘A’ status in 2012, alongside Château Pavie. 

Matthew O’Connell, CEO of fine wine trading platform LiveTrade at Bordeaux Index, said that Angélus’ exit was ’the most obvious next step in the saga’. He stressed that when the “A” group is ‘likely to be expanded, those closer to the top in pricing terms will perceive themselves to have the least to gain from the classification, that it may be more of a drag than a benefit.’

O’Connell echoed other merchants like Bishop in stressing that strong brands will thrive no matter what.

However, he added, ‘The picture is perhaps more mixed for those wines for whom a reclassification was more uncertain; if the system effectively falls apart, perhaps they will lack a catalyst to help to support their market prices and profile.’ 

Some speculate as to how the classification will continue. Gavin Quinney, owner of Château Bauduc Bordeaux AOC, who drafts annual harvest reports for Bordeaux, suggested returning to just 1er Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé. The A and B designation (the B was already eliminated in the last ranking) ‘just confuses the hell out of consumers, and if you put people into A like Figeac, for example, it would just look like you’re replacing the ones that have left, and that is not a good thing’. 

Château Rochebelle’s Faniest highlighted the relative peace of neighbouring appellation Pomerol, which has no ranking at all – and no such litigious drama and recrimination. ‘We could wind up like Pomerol, which has no need for a classification, as everyone understands that the best estates are on the plateau.’ 

Château Pavie, the remaining ‘A’ estate from the 2012 ranking, was not immediately available for comment prior to publication.

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Bordeaux’s Château Angélus has withdrawn its candidacy from the next St-Emilion classification, the producer announced today.

The withdrawal follows that of Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone who announced the news in July 2021. 

Currently only Château Pavie remains a Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ estate out of the original four having been promoted, alongside Château Angélus, in the 2012 ranking.

Angélus said that, while the classification had long been a ‘wonderful collective motivational tool’, the stakes within it had brought about ‘numerous criticisms’ and had made it the target of ‘a system of denigration’ leading to numerous cases of legal recourse.

It highlighted how this happened in 2006 and then again in 2012 (legal proceedings are still in progress almost 10 years on).

Angélus also referred to the recent court decision which, after more than 10 years of proceedings, fined Hubert de Boüard on account of his participation in the national wine appellations committee.

This, it said, had reinforced it in its choice to withdraw from ‘a process, the viability of which does not seem to us to be assured, and the advantages of which do not make up for the risks of unjust attacks’.

Angélus added that it had made the decision to withdraw having learned that two properties have brought emergency legal proceedings against the 2022 classification, which it said is in the process of being drawn up.

Describing the St-Emilion classification as ‘once a source of progress’, Angelus said it had become ‘a vehicle for antagonism and instability’.

In a statement it said: ’While regretting this deleterious context, Angélus takes note of it and exits the system in withdrawing from the 2022 classification’.

Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, President of Angélus, said: ‘While the values which we hold dear and the dynamic in which Angélus is currently engaged have led us to deem the current system as unsuited to the challenges of our estate and its appellation, our family’s deep attachment to the region and to the reputation of its wines remains intact.’

Going forward, Angélus said it would continue, ‘with humility’, to pursue its path in the same search for excellence and would devote itself, more than ever, to its first vocation, to which the de Boüard de Laforest family has been committed for eight generations now: the production of great wines capable of ageing over many years and which reflect their appellation, their terroir and each vintage.

‘Angélus will continue to actively promote St-Emilion and the great growths of Bordeaux on all the continents and in all four corners of the world,’ said Boüard-Rivoal.

‘Ahead of each new St-Emilion classification there is inevitable speculation about estate movement’ said Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent Georgie Hindle ‘particularly following the 2012 results but this has increased somewhat prematurely over the past few months with both Cheval Blanc and Ausone leaving the 2022 process and now Angélus too.

‘The estate’s removal is a further, and potentially pivotal, blow to the established ranking system, which has seen some controversy over the past decade,’ she said.

However, added Hindle, ‘the classification system has done much to augment the perception, popularity and prestige of St-Emilion’s wines and holds great weight for both consumers and the trade. It has been praised for increasing investment in the region and encouraging healthy competition between estates to improve the quality of wines.

‘But, after this news, questions will no doubt be raised as to the ramifications for the remaining properties in contention for promotions as well as for the classification’s overall and on-going relevance.’

It’s also interesting to note that as some estates withdraw, the INAO has received more candidate proposals for 2022 than in 2012. It now remains to be seen how the classification body will move forward and protect what has the potential to be a useful and credible promotional tool for the wines of the region.

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Since 1892, the name of the Manoncourt family has been inextricably linked to Château Figeac, a Premier Grand Cru Classé B that amply deserves a promotion to the coveted A category in the next update of the St-Émilion Classification scheduled for 2022.

It’s less well-known that, not far from Figeac, the Manoncourt family has for nearly 80 years also owned a hidden jewel in the form of Château de Millery and its tiny vineyard of less than one hectare.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 Château de Millery wines

Located in the commune of St-Christophe-des-Bardes within the St-Emilion Grand Cru appellation area, Millery has clay-limestone soil that is very different from that of Figeac, famous for lying in a sector of gravelly soil, which is unusual for the Right Bank.

Not surprisingly, therefore, the wines of Millery have a rounder, fuller-bodied style than those of Figeac, which stand out for their the crystalline precision and fine-boned structure.

Madame Manoncourt acquired Millery in 1942 while her son Thierry was a prisoner of war in Germany, as an incentive for him to return to St-Emilion once he made it back to France.

This was the same Thierry who would go on to strengthen the reputation of Figeac after taking charge of the estate in 1947, making his mark with an innovative approach to grape-growing and wine-making.

Distinctive terroir

Thierry Manoncourt recognised early on that Millery had its own distinctive terroir, so he was wise enough not integrate it into Figeac, says Blandine de Brier Manoncourt, co-manager of Figeac today but also of Château de Millery, for which she has a special attachment. Thierry’s own special attachment to Millery can be seen on the labels, which he designed himself.

For a long time, Millery was overshadowed by Figeac if only because of its low production – just 4,000 bottles – that was destined for a happy few, mainly the Caves Legrand in Paris or a few restaurants such as Guy Savoy, as well as a small number of aficionados around the world.

The vineyard was restructured in the 1970s and 1980s, and today it benefits from the meticulous care accorded to it by the Château Figeac team under the leadership of the very talented Figeac estate director, Frédéric Faye.

Precise and painstaking attention to detail is the rule both for the viticulture and for the adroit winemaking carried out with the approach of minimalist intervention.

Barrel ageing is done with the same mindful intent so as not to ‘mark the wine with wood,’ in the words of Faye.

How the Château de Millery wines showed in this tasting

This vertical tasting was fascinating, because it provided ample evidence of the efforts undertaken at Millery in recent years.

Since 2009, the wines have become more precise and balanced in their expression of the property’s superlative clay-limestone terroir. The structure has finer contours and the mouthfeel is more harmonious.

Tannins that are finer-grained but still unctuous show the benefit of choosing coopers carefully and managing the essential stage of elevage with a deft hand.

Of course, the 2009 and 2010 vintages are both remarkable, but 2010 has a more perceptible tannic structure.

I must admit to being impressed with the wine from the unloved Bordeaux 2012 vintage for its compelling truffle notes and elegant structure, which can be enjoyed as of now.

Surprisingly, the elegant 2013 – an even more unloved vintage in Bordeaux where ripeness was an issue – has an inkling of a solar style on its nose. As for the 2014, it is quite graphite in character but seems to be going through a phase of austerity.

The 2015 marks a slight evolution in style towards fresher wines with a brighter nose and especially racier tannins providing depth.

The 2016 provides a convincing confirmation of this stylistic trend towards a more tension-filled wine, followed by a pure and crystalline 2017. Meanwhile, the 2018 is a superb expression of limestone soil, filled with those traits including sapidity that many describe as minerality.

Rare appeal

Today, this St-Emilion Grand Cru has shed itself of its cloak of anonymity and can now be found in the international market following the Manoncourt family’s decision to make Château de Millery available to different wine merchants.

The small production remains unchanged, so rarity will be part of its appeal.

This formerly hidden gem deserves the attention of wine enthusiasts around the world, and it will certainly spark interest among those who are particularly fond of wines produced on the clay-limestone soils of St-Emilion.

Château de Millery wines from 2009 to 2018: tasting notes and scores

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Ausone and Cheval Blanc have each separately announced their intention to withdraw from the St-Emilion classification, which is renewed every 10 years and is currently being revised for 2022.

The renowned estates were reconfirmed as St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ in the 2012 classification, at the very the summit of the hierarchy.

While Ausone said a decision to withdraw was taken independently from Cheval Blanc, both châteaux cited issues with the judging criteria for the St-Emilion classification.

In a 12 July letter seen by Decanter and also sent to Bordeaux négoçiant houses and courtiers, Château Cheval Blanc’s director, Pierre Lurton, technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet and commercial director Arnaud de Laforcade explained their decision.

‘In 2012 (the last classification re-evaluation), we noticed a profound change in the philosophy of the classification, especially regarding new criteria that amount to “marketing drift”, such as the importance of product placement, how often an estate appears in media, including PR and in social media, along with wine tourism infrastructure,’ they wrote.

Amounting to only 15% of the final grade, far too little importance is given to terroir and viticulture in criteria to judge a wine, the Cheval Blanc representatives added.

They also questioned the ‘evaluation system’, which they described in the letter as having lost sight of the ‘notion of identity and typicity, as if the culture of wine, its aging capacity over several decades, and knowledge of the appellation were unnecessary for evaluating the estates’.

At the premier grand cru classé level for the 2022 ranking, 50% of an estate’s final grade will come from a blind tasting of the last 15 vintages. Tasting notes constituted 30% of the grade in the 2012 classification.

But several sources within Bordeaux who did not want to be named criticised a job advertisement seen earlier this year, seeking tasters for this important ranking assessment.

St-Emilion Wine Council defends process

Franck Binard, St-Emilion Wine Council director, defended the evaluation process as guided by France’s national appellation body, INAO, and said it would be managed by a ‘prominent wine expert’.

Replying to criticism of not emphasising terroir enough, Binard said St-Emilion is a ‘mosaic of terroirs’ and that ‘it would be very difficult to make a hierarchy of the different types of terroirs, many of which can make great wines’.

As for public job ads for tasters, Binard said that they were placed in a spirit of transparency so that no accusations of favouritism could be levelled against the system.

The Cheval Blanc representatives wrote that they ‘accept and appreciate’ evaluations of their wines when ‘often tasted by national and international critics and competent professionals’, but the rules for the official classification ‘are so far removed from our concerns, that we cannot bring ourselves to adhere to them’.

Ausone: ‘We had been mulling over our decision for a long time’

Château Ausone’s co-owner, Pauline Vauthier, stressed that her family’s choice to leave the St-Emilion classification wasn’t made ‘in concert’ with Château Cheval Blanc, but echoes the same reasoning.

‘We had been mulling over our decision for a long time, and finally decided to opt out (of the classification),’ she said. ‘Marketing and wine tourism are very nice things, but the measure of great wine comes down to terroir, viticulture and time.’

She said that a 10-year re-evaluation period based on verticals of 15 years is ‘too short’ to properly judge a wine’s capacity to age.

‘It was not an easy decision, but we continue to wholeheartedly support the St-Emilion and St-Emilion Grand Cru appellations,’ she added.

The Cheval Blanc letter also underscores the estate’s ‘pride’ for the appellation, and a commitment to defending it with ‘fervour’ and ‘conviction’.

Record number of applications for St-Emilion 2022 classification

The St-Emilion Wine Council, which represents hundreds of estates in both the St-Emilion and St-Emilion Grand Cru appellations, reacted with sadness to the news.

‘While we respect their right to withdraw, we regret this very much,’ said Binard.

He explained how 2021 saw the ‘highest number ever’ of dossiers submitted to the classification, according to the INAO, and that because the classification is re-evaluated every 10 years, that reflects the ‘dynamism’ of St-Emilion.

Château Angélus and Château Pavie were promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ in the 2012 ranking, a tier previously only home to Ausone and Cheval Blanc.

Yet there have been enduring legal challenges to the 2012 list. Châteaux Croque-Michotte, Corbin-Michotte and La Tour du Pin Figeac, which were demoted in 2012, have questioned the legitimacy of the ranking, although the hierarchy was upheld by a Bordeaux appeals court in 2019.

A final judgment over allegations of conflict of interest is expected in September this year, while a final judgment about the 2012 classification itself is still on hold for now, said Binard.

While the withdrawals of Ausone and Cheval Blanc mark a seismic change for the classification, some merchants beyond Bordeaux said buyers would likely still be interested in those estates’ wines.

‘I can see how Ausone and Cheval Blanc wanted to differentiate themselves from Pavie and Angélus, since those two estates became officially ranked at the same level’, said Michael Grimm, of Bacchus-Vinothek in Germany.

He said that his buyers will continue to purchase Ausone and Cheval Blanc, even if they lose their classification rank, because ‘what matters for consumers is the strong historical brand that both estates have’.

St-Emilion’s 2012 classification was the sixth revision of the ranking since its launched in 1955, having been agreed in the previous year.

The current 2012 list ranks 64 estates as St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé, with 14 as St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé.

They are: Châteaux Beau-Séjour Bécot, Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, Bélair-Monange, Canon, Canon-La-Gaffelière, Figeac, La Gaffelière, La Mondotte, Larcis-Ducasse, Pavie-Macquin, Troplong-Mondot, Trottevieille, Valandraud and Clos Fourtet.

Four estates got the Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ rating in 2012, as stated above: Angélus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Pavie.

Stumped by the price of a particularly famous château in St-Emilion or Pomerol? Attracted by the style and execution but know the wine is out of reach? There may be a solution.

A number of these grand estates also own properties in less exalted appellations, often using the same team and work practices as they do at the top estate. The wines, therefore, have a defined quality, but the bonus is they sell at a much more affordable price.

See tasting notes and scores for six top St-Emilion and Pomerol ‘second site’ picks

The most usual reasons for the acquisition of a secondary estate (or estates) are diversification and expansion into a more affordable region, land-wise.

With prices per hectare popping in St-Emilion and Pomerol, the likes of Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, the St-Emilion satellites and even parts of Entre-deux-Mers can look highly attractive.

There can also be a sentimental stimulus and, when it comes to a key figure running the great estate, the motivation of a more personalised project.

Come what may, the ‘other’ property, which, geographically speaking, is rarely situated far from its celebrated stablemate, is an interesting option for the discerning consumer.

No, it won’t have quite the pedigree and gravitas of the top estate (the element of terroir does come into play), but it will have the same winemaking philosophy and rigour, the desire for quality and authenticity uppermost.

Château Haut-Simard – St-Emilion Grand Cru

This is one of several properties owned by the Vauthier family, the jewel in the crown being Château Ausone. And yes, it is also located in St-Emilion, not that far from Ausone but lower down on the sand and clay soils at the foot of the hill, or pied de côte, below the town itself.

In the 1860s, the Simard vineyard was split in two by the construction of a railway line, creating two separate properties, Simard and Haut-Simard. They were later reunited and are now both owned by the Vauthier family.

The present identity of Château Haut-Simard, though, dates from the early part of the new millennium, when Alain Vauthier selected specific parcels to be planted to a density of 12,000 vines/ha with a majority Cabernet Franc (60%). The vineyard now comprises 10ha producing 35,000-40,000 bottles a year.

The same team, headed by Alain’s daughter Pauline, works Ausone and Haut-Simard (as well as the other properties), applying similar techniques: care in the vineyard, refraining from overripeness, gentle extraction and a light touch with oak ageing.

With relatively young vines, Haut-Simard has already acquired added depth and structure and, at about £20-£25 a bottle, looks an attractive buy compared to Ausone’s £600.

Château Les Cruzelles – Lalande de Pomerol

The late Denis Durantou acquired 11ha Château Les Cruzelles in 2000. ‘Denis always wanted to make wine in Lalande de Pomerol as his great-grandfather used to own a property there, but it was sold to keep L’Eglise-Clinet in our family hands,’ explains Denis’ daughter Noëmie.

By then, Durantou had already made something of a reputation, elevating L’Eglise-Clinet into the higher echelons of the Pomerol appellation. Needless to say, he embarked on the conversion of Les Cruzelles in the same fastidious manner.

The vineyard was replanted in 2004 and 2009, allowing the vines to be aligned north-south and at a density of 8,333 vines/ha, with massal selection Cabernet Franc from L’Eglise-Clinet (propagated by taking cuttings from the best-quality existing vines on a given site) used for some of the plantings.

Les Cruzelles is now produced from the older vines (on gravelly soils), while La Chenade comes from the younger plantings and those on sandier soils. ‘We apply the same approach as for the grands crus, but want the wines to remain affordable to the consumer,’ says Noëmie, who has now taken over the winemaking alongside long-time cellar master Olivier Gautrat.

Château d’Aiguilhe – Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

The von Neipperg family owns an enviable hierarchy of properties on the Right Bank: Châteaux Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte (both St-Emilion 1GCCs), Clos de l’Oratoire (St-Emilion GCC) and, finally, Aiguilhe in Castillon. The latter may be last in the pecking order, but with a total of 150ha including woods, pasture and 85ha of vineyard, it is anything but insignificant.

When Stephan von Neipperg acquired Aiguilhe in 1998, there were three things that attracted him to the site: ‘The clay-limestone soils indicated a promising viticultural terroir, the price of the land was attractive and there was an interesting historical aspect as the property, whose château dates from the 13th century, had a strategic importance during the Hundred Years’ War,’ he recounts.

Methods of vinification have been adapted to the terroir, a new circular cellar baptised in 2003 and since extended, but Aiguilhe also benefits from the cohesion with the other estates. All are managed by the same team, with Aiguilhe supplying the compost for all and acting as a conservatory for the massal selection vines. The wine itself, which hasboth fruit and power and an ageing potential of 20 years, is one of the best-value inBordeaux today.

L’ Hêtre – Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

This is the latest venture of Jacques Thienpont of Château Le Pin in Pomerol. In 2016, he and his sister, Anne De Raeymaeker, acquired what was then called Château Goubau at Gardegan-et-Tourtirac and changed the name to L’Hêtre (‘beech tree’) to perpetuate the tree-inspired moniker – apart from Le Pin (‘pine tree’),there’s also L’If, or ‘yew tree’, in St-Emilion. What attracted them was the 10ha vineyardon a limestone plateau.

The project has since evolved, with the acquisition of neighbouring land and other parcels at St-Genès-de-Castillon. All told, there is the potential for 30ha of vineyard here, with 15ha currently in production, so in size the domaine is well beyond the scale of Le Pin’s 2.8ha. The vineyard, though, has been well maintained and was already certified organic under the previous ownership.

The philosophy remains the same, with gentle extraction and attention given to barrel selection. Jacques’ nephew Maxime Thienpont, who grew up at Château Labégorce-Zédé in Margaux, now manages the property.

It’s early days yet, but this is one to keep an eye on. There are plans for a new cellar and there’s no disputing the quality of the terroir or the pedigree of the ownership and management.

Château Grand Village – Bordeaux Supérieur

In this instance, the ‘other’ wine predates the grand cru. Château Grand Village has been in the same family hands since 1650, Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau taking over the running in 1980.

Five years later they took on another family property of a different standing, Château Lafleur in Pomerol, becoming sole owners from 2002.

The 1980s were a learning curve at both properties, but by the 1990s Jacques had a better understanding of Grand Village’s clay-limestone terroir at Mouillac, north of Fronsac, and had started restructuring and replanting the vineyard.

With his son and daughter-in-law, Baptiste and Julie, on board from 2001, the type of precision viticulture that was already driving Lafleur to greater fame was also implemented at Grand Village.

There’s a natural symbiosis between the two properties. The same viticultural team works both vineyards, and come the harvest everything is picked by hand.

A programme of massal selection Bouchet (the local name for Cabernet Franc), Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc across the two properties sees Grand Village as the nursery.

It’s an approach not generally permitted at this level, hence the appeal of Grand Village at about £15-£20 a bottle compared to recent (2015, 2016) Lafleur prices of above £1,000.

Château Marjosse – Bordeaux

Pierre Lurton’s day job is managing Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem. Somehow, though, over the past 30 years, he has also found time to create and develop his own property, Château Marjosse.

Located in the north of the Entre-deux-Mers at Grézillac, Marjosse seems a far cry from the hallowed soils of Cheval Blanc and St-Emilion, but Pierre Lurton has always believed in the potential. ‘The clay-limestone soils have regularly offered promise. What was needed was qualitative viticulture,’ he explains.

Over the years he has built up the property, first by rental agreement and then by purchasing parcels, all the time restructuring and replanting the land. A modern cellar was completed in 2000, and in 2013 he had the satisfaction of acquiring and moving into an 18th-century chartreuse located on the land.

The red and white Marjosse have long been accepted as wines of quality and value, their drinkability proven. Now Lurton is embarking on a complementary project (first vintage 2018), the production of limited-edition, single-vineyard wines from specific grape varieties.

There are eight in the Anthologie collection, including a Cabernet Franc, a Malbec from vines planted in 1949 and Merlots from three different terroirs, along with a Muscadelle and a Chardonnay. ‘The terroir merits the effort, even if financially it’s a gamble,’ he says.

Affordable alternatives

In addition to the six wines profiled here, look out for others of this nature owned by top St-Emilion and Pomerol estates, including:

Clos Badon, St-Emilion Grand Cru

Owned by Jean-Luc Thunevin of Château Valandraud (St-Emilion 1GCC). Good value St-Emilion but a little more expensive than the others mentioned here.

Vieux Château Saint André Montagne, St-Emilion

Owned by former Petrus winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet (44 vintages), and managed by his son Jean-François. Elegance and precision, of course.

Château Alcée Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux

Owned by Nicolas Thienpont, who manages Châteaux Larcis Ducasse and Pavie Macquin (St-Emilion 1GCCs). Good value.

Château Joanin Bécot, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Owned by Juliette Bécot of Château Beau-Séjour Bécot (St-Emilion 1GCC). More fruit and freshness from 2017.

L’Aurage Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux

Owned by Louis Mitjavile of Château Tertre Roteboeuf in St-Emilion. Similarly opulent and gourmand in style.

See James Lawther MW’s top St-Emilion and Pomerol ‘second site’ picks

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Turning into the drive at Château Pavie Macquin and heading up one of St-Emilion’s most vertiginous driveways (rivalled, surely, only by Ausone) is always an enjoyable en primeur moment.

This is where the Nicolas Thienpont wines are on display, a chance to retaste estates such as Laroque and Les Charmes-Godard, and to discuss the vintage with the team.

Scroll down to see Jane Anson’s Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse 2020 en primeur tasting note and score

There was one wine missing this year though, and it was an important one – Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse.

Although made by Thienpont every year since 2009, the 2020 vintage had been withdrawn from the en primeur tasting circuit under the direction of the new owners, a few days after they took possession on 12 April.

The few samples that had already been sent to critics would have to be replaced, as the initial blend, we were told, was being reworked.

The realisation that Thienpont had made his last vintage at Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse was suddenly unavoidable.

Not for nothing is St-Emilion known as Dallas-on-Dordogne. There’s something about the ancient limestone walls and narrow cobbled streets that seems to stir the blood of its inhabitants.

Temperatures seem to rise even higher as the 10-yearly classification redrawing (due in 2022) rolls around.

Even so, the battle over the 6.24ha Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse delivered more than your average drama, making headlines in every major newspaper in France, and spilling into the international press once a final twist appeared. The sale turned from a battle between two neighbouring wine giants – Matthieu Cuvelier of Clos Fourtet and Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal of Château Angélus, both within a few minutes’ walk from this spot on the limestone plateau – into a last-minute victory for 30-year-old Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse.

To add even more tension, the transaction was made possible only after an intervention by the French national land agency, Safer, under a programme that favours young winemakers.

The deal was also backed financially by one of France’s most striking young entrepreneurs, Prisca Courtin-Clarins, third generation of the family that founded Clarins cosmetics in 1954.

For an estate purchase to cause such a stir, only for it to end up in the hands of the original owner, might seem strange. But when this Premier Grand Cru Classé B property was put up for sale, Joséphine was one of 30 members of the family board of administration.

The estate’s full name is Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse, an important addition in this case as it means ‘heirs’ in French, and the majority of them wanted to sell. Joséphine had nowhere near the estimated €75 million price tag to stop it from happening.

‘I had stayed away from the family estate until this point,’ Joséphine tells me when I caught up with her at the Château this week, while finally tasting the 2020 vintage (tasting note below).

‘Because I knew that once you start working at a family property, you don’t leave again, and I wanted to get wider winemaking experience.’

Instead, after growing up at the rather more modest family estate of Château de Musset in Lalande-de-Pomerol, she studied wine production and commerce in both Bordeaux and Burgundy. From 2012, she worked alongside Philippe Bascaules at Inglenook in Napa, then in Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand and Chihuahua in Mexico alongside Stéphane Derenoncourt.

In 2016, Joséphine returned to Bordeaux and became technical director of Château du Taillan in the Médoc (‘on the Left Bank but dominant Merlot, a grape I am particularly used to working with’), before moving to Group Bernard Magrez at Château Les Grands Chênes.

‘I used to come to Beauséjour at weekends,’ she says, ‘and regularly worked in the vines when I was younger.’ Her father Vincent Duffau-Lagarrosse was one of the co-managers since 2006. ‘It wasn’t until we heard it was being sold that it became clear to me how much it meant to me. But it felt impossible to stop.’

Somebody must have understood how serious she was, because behind the scenes she was put in touch (‘by an intermediary’) with the Courtin-Clarins family, number 16 in the most recent Challenges list of France’s richest families, with €5.8billion in 2020.

The Clarins Group continues to be 100% family owned, founded in 1954 by Prisca’s grandfather Jacques, and the idea of trying to keep a long-term family enterprise going must have struck a chord.

Although this is their first step into the wine industry, the Courtin-Clarins family owns Domaine Clarins, described as an ‘open air laboratory’ in the Alps, a 22,000ha nature reserve where they grow plants for the production of their products. The matchup clearly worked, and as of April 2021, Joséphine and Prisca are co-directors at the St-Emilion Château, both in their early 30s and already making an impression.

‘The first thing I did,’ Joséphine says, ‘was taste through the different parcels that were ageing in barrel. I have great respect for what Nicolas Thienpont has achieved here, and I want to be clear that it was him and his team that made this vintage.

‘But at the same time I felt that the style was not exactly what I was looking for. I wanted to reflect the power and freshness of the vintage, and to make the most of the fully ripe Cabernet Franc that has done so well this year.’

In some ways, reworking the blend is a smart way to take control right from the beginning of her tenure. But it is also a risk, because Nicolas Thienpont had established a pretty much undisputed winning formula for this wine.

The dossier for reclassification in St-Emilion is due in at the end of June (as at many estates right now, they have one member of staff working full-time on completing it), and any change in ranking will be reflected as of the 2020 vintage. So the stakes are high.

Joséphine’s past experience working with Derenoncourt in Mexico, along with his experience working alongside Thienpont at Beauséjour in the past, means it is surely possible that he will have a role going forward, but it’s far from assured.

‘From here, I want to take the time to understand the terroir in depth; and how each part of the vineyard reflects to the different growing seasons,’ says Joséphine.

‘Similarly, I am not making any decisions about consultants before I myself know what I want and understand the vineyard – I don’t want it to be the other way round, implementing somebody else’s vision.

‘Certain things don’t need changing, such as ageing the wines in our underground cellars that keep things at the perfect natural temperature. Where we can keep intervention to a minimum, that is certainly my preference.’

And the neighbours? Her reply is charming but steely, giving a hint as far as I can see not only why the Clarins-Courtin family felt she was a pair of hands to invest in, but also why those of us who love this estate can rest easy.

‘This is an exceptional place,’ she says, ‘full of potential, and it’s easy to understand why we all tried to secure it. Perhaps I had a little more legitimacy – but I would welcome them here with pleasure.’

See the Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse 2020 en primeur tasting note

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St-Emilion 2020

Average yields: 38hl/ha

Wide range of individual yields

• 40hl/ha at Clos Fouret
• 30hl/ha at Couspaude,
• 19hl/ha at Clos Dubreuil,
• 23hl/ha at Fleur Cardinale,
• 35hl/ha at Fonplegade.
• Yields at Figeac 20% higher than in 2019 at 37hl/ha overall I think
• 31hl/ha at Pavie Maquin

What you find

A highly successful vintage in St-Emilion, with some of the wines of the vintage, particularly on clay-limestone soils.

In terms of alcohols, there are a few 15%-pluses such as a Quintus and Valandraud, but largely alcohols run between 14-14.5%.

St-Emilion 2020 vintage characteristics

February 3.5°C warmer than average, April and May 2.2°C warmer than average.

End of March rain was 60% higher than average of last 20 years. Local frost on nights of 26 and 27 March, localised to the cooler low-lying areas.

Budding 15 days earlier than average. Drought 20 June to 10 August with less than 10mm of rain for 50 days. Hydric deficit 60% lower than average across July and August (and here only 40mm fell in August, almost one third of the rain in Pauillac). This meant some young vines saw shrivelling of the grapes – and then a further 10% of volume was lost in September because of drought and heat.

Things were very warm until September 21 when rain returned and temperatures droped 15°C from one day to the next – St-Emilion saw around 70mm of rain in the later part of September, which meant rot pressure in some areas, although helped by cool nights.

What’s new

Worth noting that the 2020 vintage will be included in the classification of St-Emilion, which will be announced in September 2022 (meaning any new ranks will be reflected on the labels).

We are seeing more and more Cabernet Sauvignon in St-Emilion now, successfully so – certainly it is striking how often it is found in the blend, from Pressac and Faugères to Fonbel, Troplong Mondot, Clos Fourtet and Figeac, Valandraud, Trottevielle, Fleur Cardinale, Bellefont Belcier, La Croix Younan (others such as Château Fombrauge have taken out Cabernet Sauvignon that was planted 10 years ago).

Château Fonplegade has now obtained Biodynamic certification in 2020 with Biodyvin, as has Couvent des Jacobins with organic certification.

New owners at Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse, meaning that the Nicolas Thienpont team will not be making this wine as of 2021 (instead it will go to Josephine Duffau-Lagarosse).

Valandraud has taken on 50% investment from Marie Lafevre at Sansonnet.

There are changes to blends going forward – Carillon d’Angélus is more Merlot focused to be more fully distinct from the main estate wine. And also changes for Vieux Château Mazerat in the Maltus stable, again upping the Merlot to make a distinction from Le Dôme (we are also missing both Le Carré and Les Asteries from the Maltus stable, either due to mildew or because of a reworking of the plots for classification submission. I heard both things from the estate itself, so I guess we will have to wait until next year to see if they reappear).

New cellars: Le Dôme, Troplong Mondot, Figeac, Fleur Cardinale.

Look out for a few wines that highlight neatly the trends in winemaking: Château Mangot Distique 12 for example – specially selected plots, 60% Cabernet (both Franc and Sauvignon), aged in amphora, and also Luccianus Amphore – 100% Cabernet Franc aged entirely in Amphoras.

Quick links for Bordeaux 2020 en primeur ratings

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Top St-Emilion 2020 picks:

• Château Larcis Ducasse,
• Château Fonplegade,
• Château Cheval Blanc,
• Château Ausone,
• Château Figeac,
• Château Canon,
• Château Clos Fourtet,
• Château Belair-Monange,
• Château Rocheyron

Value picks:

• Château Pontet Labrie,
• Château Haut Simard,
• Château Angélus, No. 3 d’Angélus,
• Château Fonbel,
• Château Tour de Pressac
  

See the top-scoring St-Emilion 2020 en primeur wines

Search all Bordeaux 2020 en primeur ratings published so far

Back to the main Bordeaux en primeur page

Something intriguing is happening in St-Emilion. Call it a quiet mutation, but since the latter part of the last decade a stylistic change has become steadily more apparent.

Fruit, freshness and drinkability have become the new mantra, while overripeness, heavy extraction and the imprint of oak are being toned down or even eliminated.

Finesse is what’s required, driven by a desire to rein in excess, promote terroir and advance the demands of a new era.

Scroll down for James Lawther MW’s tasting notes and scores for 10 top picks showing a new St-Emilion wine style

It’s not yet systematic among the region’s 600-odd growers, but there’s plenty of thought and discussion on the topic.

A new generation and certain oenologists are advancing the cause and, now the word of Robert Parker is no longer absolute, there’s greater liberty in the way wines can be made.

Some producers, though, are still being cautious, warning that the pendulum should not swing too far in the other direction. Come what may, wines from vintages from 2014 onwards have progressively shown greater purity and precision.

Moving with the times

As examples of the new flow of things, Châteaux Canon and Figeac are often cited as role models, having always embodied elegance, even when fashion dictated otherwise.

Other premiers grands crus classés, such as Château Ausone, have an ingrained finesse which has been fine-tuned by, for instance, improving fruit selection and tweaking the ageing process. Then there are those, like Châteaux Beau-Séjour Bécot and Troplong Mondot, that have opted for radical and wholesale change.

Certainly, it’s the classed growths that have driven the move towards fruit and freshness, but a lighter touch has also filtered down through the food chain.

Time, perhaps, for a brief historical recap just to put all this into perspective. Thirty-odd years ago, global warming was still not on the agenda and Bordeaux had difficulty bringing grapes to full ripeness.

As a remedy, new viticultural and winemaking practices emerged, with St-Emilion at the cutting edge. Later harvesting and reduced yields were encouraged, advocated by oenologists such as Michel Rolland, while in the cellar, concentration became an obsession and new oak barrels the panacea for texture and flavour.

All this came to a head with the emergence of what became known as ‘garage’ wines (rich, concentrated, deeply coloured, small-volume offerings from, at the time, little-known vineyards), a phenomenon that had its heyday in the 1990s.

Undoubtedly, the new practices had some positive, long-term effects – in particular, improved ripeness and the realisation that good vineyard management was the key to success. But the race to harvest ever later, reduce yields further and max out on new oak barrels (200% at a time: fermenting and maturing for a period in new oak, then transferring to fresh new barrels for further ageing) led to huge exaggeration and some pretty undrinkable wine.

This was, or is, the extreme end of a winemaking fad, but the present desire for fruit and freshness is in part a reaction to this, coupled with a desire to write a new page, express terroir and adapt to the flux in climate.

Generational change

This was certainly the case at Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, where a change in style has been evident since 2017. ‘There was a lot of reflection and discussion with family and friends about the change in climate, the picking dates and how they relate to our limestone plateau terroir and ultimately the type of wine I wanted to produce, which is one of precision and authentic flavour and less of power,’ explains Juliette Bécot, who now heads the family-owned estate.

In order to bring about change, she sought the advice of a like-minded specialist and was advised to approach consultant oenologist Thomas Duclos of Oenoteam laboratory. ‘Thomas started with us at our Castillon property, Château Joanin Bécot, and then came on board fully at Beau-Séjour Bécot from 2018,’ she says. It was not an easy step as it meant dissolving an association with Michel Rolland, a close friend of her father Gérard, that had lasted for many years.

If subtle revision began here in 2017, the 2018 vintage really underlines the change. The bouquet is floral and refined, the fruit lifted and there’s not a hint of the overripeness and muscle that some older Beau-Séjour Bécot vintages display.

So, in concrete terms, what has changed? Well, the picking dates have been brought forward by sometimes up to a week (they started picking the Merlot in 2018 on 12 September). Yields have increased (46hl/ha in 2018, when previously they were about 30hl/ha). And in the cellar, extraction is now done more by infusion and at lower temperatures, while for maturation amphorae and larger wooden foudres have been introduced to lessen the impact of oak.

Precise practice

On the opposite side of the limestone plateau, where the clay content is heavier, Château Troplong Mondot has also been undergoing its own revolution. Purchased in 2017 by the insurance company SCOR, the property has been something of a building site since, with a new cellar project and renovation of the restaurant and château. No less eye-catching has been the change in style of the wine, once known for power and concentration and now with a fresher, more saline edge. ‘It’s not just a change of style, but a choice in the way we interpret the terroir,’ explains managing director Aymeric de Gironde.

Picking dates have again been brought forward and, from being one of the last to harvest, Troplong Mondot is now one of the first. ‘The dates are dictated by the optimum moment of ripeness in each parcel and it’s that which provides the complexity,’ de Gironde says. Abandoning anti-botrytis sprays has been another factor that has helped advance maturity. The second wine, Mondot, has also been remodelled and is now produced from 100% Merlot grown on pure limestone parcels at Troplong Mondot and another recently purchased vineyard, the 4.5ha Clos Labarde.

In the cellar, gentle extraction is the name of the game. ‘With our dense clay and silex [flinty] soils, the power for the grand vin comes free of charge, so we don’t need to look for it,’ says de Gironde. New oak barrels for ageing have been reduced to 60% and, contraryto prior practices, the malolactic fermentation is now done in tank and the blend completed early, by January following the harvest. The transformation has been considerable, and this before the new cellar with its 40 stainless steel tanks (there were 20 previously) has come into operation. ‘We can only get more precise,’ concludes de Gironde.

Troplong Mondot has also engaged the services of Thomas Duclos as consultant, and clearly the young oenologist has become something of a motivating force when it comes to the new trend. ‘It’s thanks to all the work done by the previous generation that we can operate the way we do today,’ Duclos expounds.‘We now have the right grapes in the right place and there’s so much precision regarding the identity of each parcel that we can be more precise in the harvest date, which helps create the identity of the wine.

‘Before, we needed oenology for correction; now, if everything is right in the vineyard, intervention in the cellar is more measured.’

Drive for finesse

On a practical note, Duclos also makes a few pointers about consumer demand and wine in general which help identify his modus operandi: ‘Today’s consumer wants wine to be accessible earlier as well as having the capacityto age. It’s also a drink, so it should be thirst-quenching.’ And fresher aromatics, he continues, help disguise the perception of high alcohol, still an issue in St-Emilion and Bordeaux even with earlier harvesting.

Other properties in the Duclos consulting stable include Château Canon, grands crus classés Berliquet, Bellefont-Belcier, Couvent des Jacobins, Franc Mayne, Petit Faurie de Soutard and Soutard, as well as grands crus La Grave Figeac and Mangot. Château Soutard is one of the longest-running consultancies, having begun in 2012, the year Château Cadet-Piola (purchased in 2009) was incorporated into the vineyard.

A change in harvest date and greater liberty and certitude for Soutard cellarmaster Véronique Corporandy, and the wine’s profile has definitely changed. The 2018 is one of the finest produced at this estate, and there’s more to come as the vineyard restructuring is only partially complete.

Looking around at other ongoing projects outside the Duclos sphere, the drive for finesse reoccurs. Château La Clotte, a grand cru classé, was acquired by the Vauthiers of Château Ausone in 2014 and is undergoing something of a metamorphosis. The vineyard is being steadily replanted, but already a regime of earlier harvest dates and less extraction have given the wine greater refinement.

At Château Angélus, the addition of four 30hl foudres for ageing the old-vine Cabernet Franc has added another touch of purity to the grand vin. But it’s in the development of the second label, Carillon d’Angélus, where the stylistic choice is perhaps more emphatic. Now produced from grapes cultivated in three separate locations in St-Emilion and vinified (since 2019) in a new winery, the freshness and lift come almost as a statement.

Would a project of this magnitude have had the same expression 15 years ago? Probably not, but in taking a contemporary line, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, who now heads up the estate, has definitively made her mark.

Happy medium

Further east at St-Christophe-des-Bardes, David Suire, the manager and winemaker of grand cru classé Château Laroque, is on a mission to improve finesse, but voices caution. ‘Tannin is part of Bordeaux’s DNA, but terroirs vary with regard to maturity, and the quality of tannin is refined during the ripening process. I agree that harvest dates and concentration have been exaggerated in the past, but we mustn’t go too far in the opposite direction,’ he warns.

On arrival at Laroque in May 2015, he found that his predecessor, Bruno Sainson, had left the vineyard in impeccable condition. But to understand the predominantly limestone configuration and hence decide on picking dates and work practices, he first instituted a study of the soils. Thereafter, there have been changes in the cellar: the period of maceration is now longer but themethod of extraction less robust, the press wine is no longer used in the grand vin, and oak foudres have been introduced for ageing a percentage of the wine. ‘It’s a double challenge as the wines from the eastern side of St-Emilion generally have a reputation for being less refined,’ he adds.

Clearly, recent vintages such as 2018 and 2019 with their fruit and freshness have contributed to the new tendency. Limestone soils and Cabernet Franc (and occasionally Cabernet Sauvignon) in the blend with Merlot will also have an impact. But a gentler hand is definitely being exerted and the extremes of the 1990s and 2000s swept away.

It’s good news for those who enjoy a refreshing libation, but as Suire comments, practices shouldn’t swing from one extreme to another. Green, after all, is still a no-go.

Shift in St-Emilion wine style: James Lawther MW’s top 10

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‘Launchers’ are set to be installed to help protect 7,500 hectares of vineyards after St-Emilion wineries approved a collective approach to hail defence this week.

More than 90% of winemakers voted in favour of coordinated action, said the St-Emilion Wine Council. Thirty-seven launchers will be used and a spokesperson said the plan will cost €1.3m in total.

‘Without offering a 100% guarantee, this system should make it possible to greatly reduce the impact of hail,’ the council said.

Areas covered will include the St-Emilion and St-Emilion grand cru appellations, plus Lussac St-Emilion and Puisseguin St-Emilion.

Hailstorms are capable of seriously damaging a vineyard’s crop in just a few minutes, and parts of St-Emilion and the Entre-Deux-Mers region were hit in April 2020.

How will the St-Emilion hail defence launchers work?

There are different anti-hail options available, but the collective St-Emilion system uses helium balloons and revolves around a technique called ‘cloud seeding’.

Radar provides an early warning to winemakers by detecting storm fronts up to 30km away, said the St-Emilion council.

Winemakers are then notified and will be able to remotely trigger launchers that release balloons into the skies.

Each balloons is filled with 200g of ‘hygroscopic salts’, which are dispersed in the clouds once a certain altitude is reached, according to the council.

These salts help to suppress hail formation, creating rain showers instead.

French firm Selerys will supply the launchers, and some individual châteaux were already using them, said a spokesperson for the St-Emilion council.

But wineries believe a collective approach will yield more benefits.

A first phase of installations will begin in June 2021, said the council.

Wineries will finance the move, with payments calculated per hectare (ha) of vineyard. The cost will be ‘weighted’ by appellation, and so will range from €43 per ha to €205 per ha.

Some French winemakers and areas have experimented with other types of anti-hail system. In 2018, French officials approved the use of anti-hail nets for vineyards.

See also: 

‘Unprecedented’ hailstorm hits Bordeaux vineyards (2018)

Violent hailstorms hit Valpolicella vineyards (2020)

Scroll down to see Jane Anson’s St-Emilion 2018 top scorers

See the full Bordeaux 2018 report here

See the individual appellation overview for Pomerol

I have rarely enjoyed the wines from this appellation as much as I did in 2018.

They definitely rival the 2015s and 2016s in St-Emilion, and in most cases the in-bottle scores remained at least the same as they were when I first tasted them 18 months ago. In comparison, several wines from the Médoc were moved down one point.

Maybe the winemakers here have become more accustomed to dealing with excess in a vintage, or maybe they really have changed their winemaking methods to put more emphasis on restraint.

There are lots of value options here also – this appellation was, for me, one of the clear winners of the year, with a number of excellent wines.

The average yield was 42hl/ha, which must also have helped retain the juicy character to the fruits – as well as the limestone soils, that delivered freshness and personality.

Individual yields included:

50hl/ha at Beau-Séjour Becot

49hl/ha at Lassègue

42hl/ha at Canon

43hl/ha at Cheval Blanc

39hl/ha at Figeac

40hl/ha at Valandraud

47hl/ha at Pavie Macquin

Alcohols were around the 14.5%ABV mark, with a few creeping higher.

Names to look out for:

Les Grands Murailles

Moulin St Georges

Canon la Gaffeliere

Canon

Clos Fourtet

Fleur Cardinale

La Serre

Le Prieuré

Fonplegade

Value picks:

Croix de Labrie

Chateau Laroze

See Jane Anson’s top-scoring St-Emilion 2018 wines

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Full report on Bordeaux 2018 in the bottle

Top Bordeaux 2018 Left Bank wines in the bottle

Top Bordeaux 2018 Right Bank wines report

Château Puy-Blanquet, a St-Emilion grand cru estate that lies in the village of St-Etienne de Lisse, has been sold to the Malet Roquefort family, owner of Château La Gaffelière for more than three centuries.

Financial details were not disclosed.

The deal marks a return for the family, which has been present in the St-Emilion wine world since 1705 and previously owned Puy-Blanquet for almost 150 years.

The 24-hectare estate has 19 hectares of vineyards located on clay-limestone soils and has been owned by the Jacquet family since 1958.

Vines are planted to 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with an average vine age of 25 years.

According to the JP Moueix merchant house, which sells the wines, ‘Puy-Blanquet was known as one of the best St-Émilion grand crus as early as the 19th century.’

Puy-Blanquet’s current estate director, Pierre Meunier, trained with Moueix, which owns several Bordeaux Right Bank properties including La Fleur-Pétrus in Pomerol and Bélair-Monange in St-Emilion.

Of recent vintages, Puy-Blanquet 2018 was rated 90 points by Decanter’s Jane Anson.

Alongside La Gaffelière, a Premier Grand Cru Classé estate, the Malet Roquefort family’s portfolio includes Château Armens, a St-Emilion grand cru property, and Château Chapelle d’Aliénor, classified as Bordeaux Supérieur.

There have been several château purchases across the St-Emilion area in recent years, notably in 2017.

St-Emilion vineyard prices varied widely in 2019, from around €240,000 per hectare right up to €3m per hectare for the most prestigious sites, according to the latest figures from French land agency Safer.

Vineyards in St-Emilion ‘satellite’ appellations cost €95,000 per hectare on average, Safer said.

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Search all St Emilion 2019 wine ratings

Another excellent St Emilion vintage after 2018, in most cases just as good as last year.

Limestone always does well in hot vintages with its ability to keep both moisture and freshness, but the Corbin sector on the clays near to Pomerol also did a great job of resisting the periods of drought in 2019.

Scroll down to see the top-rated St Emilion 2019 wines

Those down on the sandier soils struggled a little more without careful viticulutral decisions. Water stress was less marked than in 2015, for example, because they had a 15°C swing of day and nighttime temperatures on average.

Winemaking has also definitively turned a corner, which makes such a difference to the sapidity of the wines.

Figeac was one of a number of estates to carry out no punching down of the fruit, choosing instead more gentle infusion methods (you see this also over at Carmes Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan), along with low temperatures to ensure slow extraction.

Yields

The average yield for the appellation was 43hl/ha, and you can see some variability when you look at individual châteaux results – 45hl/ha at Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse, 29hl/ha at Pavie, 38hl/ha at Clos Fourtet, 46hl/ha at Beausejour Becot, 48hl/ha at Corbin, 47hl/ha at Ferrand, 17hl/ha at Pavie Decesse and 51hl/ha at La Mondotte.

Scores

In terms of the wines, there were no out and out potential 100s but a crop of 98s that could well be up-scored when re-tasted in bottle – Cheval Blanc, Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse and Canon (high for this estate from me), and a brilliant Pavie Macquin at 97 points.

There are at least 20 estates over 95 points (there were almost 200 wines tasted from St Emilion this year), including a brilliant Angélus and Valandraud, both of which I would particularly recommend. Rocheyron also continues to impress.

At the ‘buy signal’ 94 point mark you have plenty to choose from – the brilliant Saintayme, Larcis Ducasse, Dassault, Barde-Haut, Clos des Jacobins, Lassègue, La Mondotte, Villemaurine, Laroque, La Serre, Fonplégade, Fleur Cardinale and Bellefont-Belcier.

There were also plenty (32 wines) under 90 points as St Emilion is such a variable appellation, but overall this is a great place to go looking for value and quality delivery.

Changes

In terms of what’s new, there is a new owner at Château Trianon, and Peter Kwok is now firmly installed at Bellefont-Belcier and doing an excellent job.

Eric Boissenot makes an appearance as consultant at Château Cantenac, but more generally Thomas Duclos and Oenoteam continues to increase their presence across the appellation.

Also, there are more and more environmental certifications in St Emilion coming through as the countdown to the change of rules in 2021 nears, where all wineries must have some official recognition of green credentials to carry the AOC on their labels.

Within the mix are few unusual wines to draw your attention to, particularly Château Monolithe, 100% Cabernet Franc, which is worth looking out for.

Top Scoring

Angélus, Cheval Blanc, Troplong Mondot, Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse, Pavie, Rocheyron, Canon, Valandraud, Trotte Vielle, Pavie Macquin, Canon-la-Gaffelière

Best Value

Clos Dubreuil, Saintayme, Teyssier, La Commanderie, Haut-Brisson, de Candale, Tertre de la Mouleyre, Clos Romanille, la Fleur d’Arthus, Bel-Air-Ouÿ.

See the top-rated St Emilion 2019 wines

The following wines have all been scored 95 points and above

Not yet tasted: Château Ausone, L’If

Back to the main Bordeaux en primeur page

You might have noticed that Bordeaux châteaux owners are experiencing something of a love affair with Napa and Sonoma, but Château Fonplégade wines represent a success story that has gone the opposite way.

Christian Moueix, of Dominus, pioneered the trend for Bordeaux winemakers to head to Napa and Sonoma in the 1980s, although Baron Philippe de Rothschild, of Mouton Rothschild, began working with Robert Mondavi on the Opus One joint-venture in the late 1970s, too.

Scroll down to see Jane’s Château Fonplégade tasting notes and scores

Recent years have seen a series of purchases by Bordeaux châteaux owners.

For example, François Pinault, owner of Château Latour, bought the renowned Eisele Vineyard Estate – then named Araujo Estate – in 2013.

Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, of Châteaux Rauzan-Ségla and Canon, have arrived at St Supery, Pontet-Canet’s Alfred Tesseron is at Pym-Rae, and Gonzague & Claire Lurton are at Trinité in Sonoma.

Just last month, the Cathiards of Smith-Haut-Lafitte bought a significant part of Komes Ranch, renaming it Cathiard Family Estate.

Château Fonplégade shows you that, just sometimes, things go the other way as well.

Stephen Adams, who made his money with a range of banking, television and radio companies, bought his first vineyard in California’s Dry Creek Valley in 1995, almost a decade before buying Château Fonplégade in St-Emilion with his wife Denise in 2004.

He has since added to the portfolio with the Howell Mountain ADAMVS estate in 2008, but it was the move from California to Bordeaux that first brought the Adams to prominence in the wine community.

‘One of the best examples of what biodynamics bring to wine’

Fonplégade has also been ahead of the curve in Bordeaux itself, specifically in terms of committing to organic and now biodynamic farming.

The Adams’ stopped all chemical treatments immediately upon arrival in 2004, went fully organic in 2007, and began the certification process in 2010.

The first certified organic label arrived in 2013, with biodynamic certification in 2019.

Hand-in-hand with this has been a fascinating evolution in the wine. Along with Pontet Canet on the Left Bank, I often hold up Fonplégade as being one of the clearest examples of what biodynamics can bring to the way a property is run, as well as to the flavour profile and sense of energy in a wine.

Cutting back on the new oak

This vertical tasting, spanning 2009 until 2019* inclusive was extremely clear in showing the difference that small changes have made to the wine.

These include moving from 100% new oak in 2009 and 2010 to 60% today, with the introduction of both cement eggs and amphorae for ageing, keeping the emphasis on fruit.

Recent vintages of Fonplégade easily compete with the best in the appellation for sheer quality of wine. For me, the change is particularly clear from the 2014 vintage onwards.

Biodynamic ethos

Away from the glass, the benefits of biodynamic farming to the everyday running of the property have also been instructive to watch.

For a start, it has meant that different parts of the estate have begun working together more closely. Office staff help to feed the chickens, or look after the biodynamic garden that has been planted with valerian, stinging nettles, poppies, chamomile and other vine treatments.

It’s something that I firmly believe has helped to improve quality at all levels. Incidentally, this cross-pollination of different teams has been followed also at Clerc Milon in Pauillac, with similar results in the quality of the wine, even though it does not fully employ biodynamic farming.

In some ways, this ethos has also made Fonplégade better prepared for the surreal events that we are all living through right now.

‘We are a small team and are accustomed to working closely together and sharing all pertinent activities on property with one another,’ Denise Adams told me this week.

‘For example, our tractor drivers know about the work and happenings of en primeur, our book keeper knows why we bury cow horns, and our technical director knows about our hospitality programs.

‘We are all missing our routines and relationships right now, and are forced to find other avenues to connect and support one another. We have zoom meetings in order to see one another, the vineyard team waves a bonjour across the blocks.’

A winery perspective on dealing with the current Covid-19 crisis

Adams took me through how the different parts of the estate are responding to the new conditions – and also to the threat of frost that St-Emilion suffered earlier this week.

Her description is so powerful that I thought I would share parts of it with you.

‘Since the government mandate, our normal vineyard activities remain virtually unchanged. In fact, the vineyard team told me that the challenge and work in the vineyard allows them to take their minds off the [Covid-19] virus crisis.

‘Our team has organised themselves so as to each be in a different block for maximum social distancing and safety. Team members work independently according to their gifts and specialties, as we normally do. They have learned how to do their tasks alone.

‘Biodynamic farming practices require daily focused attention in the vineyard, regardless, but the team has discovered that working completely alone allows for an even greater focus. Our sheep, honeybees and chickens seem to be oblivious to all that is going on. We are a bit jealous of their continued socialising during this period.’

She added, ‘On the equinox we normally remove our cow horns filled with either silica or female lactating cow manure as a team, but this year it was a solo event. But each person had a separate part in the process and we made it work.

‘For the most part, we make our own compost, bury cow horns filled with manure to make compost teas, grow special herbs for making specialty teas for spraying and feeding our vineyard. So much of how we farm is with an independent approach (unknowingly until now) in growing what we need on the property. We originally thought it to be for quality and now we see it also for survival.

‘With the threat of frost this week, the vineyard team communicated via conference call and devised a game plan, one by one, for ensuring our Agrofrost machines were operating and ready to combat the frost. Normally, we are all there together around 4am on mornings when frost is threatening, but this approach is still working.’

She also said, ‘We are used to “viruses” in the vineyard that spread and we know what to do to combat these diseases with organic and biodynamic methods. But we were not used to such a virus that attacks humans, which also spreads rapidly.

‘This is a big learning curve and an opportunity to see what our vineyard can teach us about how we care for ourselves. I’ve always said that every human being should get the care and attention that our vines receive at Fonplegade.’

*The 2019 en primeur tasting note is being held back until later. 

Jane Anson’s tasting notes for Château Fonplégade wines, 2009 to 2018

See also: 

Tasting St-Emilion’s Château Chauvin back to 1998

Why Château Beauregard in Pomerol is one to watch: 20 vintages tasted

I should have been starting to taste the Bordeaux 2019 en primeur wines this week, but as with every single one of us, plans have taken something of a curve.

I will be tasting barrel samples as soon as feasible, and have already begun where deliveries to my house are safe and possible.

In the meantime, there has never been a better excuse for getting wines out of your cellar. No, excuse is the wrong word. There has never been a better reason to crack open a bottle that looks inviting.

Vertical tastings like this are now a form of connection, as well as being interesting and useful.

Scroll down for Jane Anson’s Château Chavin vertical tasting notes and scores

I wanted to start this particular series of vertical therapy with an estate that does not always receive the biggest headlines in St-Emilion.

Yet, it makes a brilliant classified wine and is located in a corner of the appellation that I seriously rate, over by Pomerol and next to the Corbin plateau.

It’s a different style of terroir to much of St-Emilion, notably due to the absence of limestone. The focus is instead on gravel, clay and sand, making powerful wines that age brilliantly.

Chauvin has been ranked as a Grand Cru Classé since the first outing of this list in 1955.

It has also seen a number of changes in recent years. The Ondet family, which had been in place since 1891 and was most recently represented by sisters Béatrice and Marie-France, sold the estate in 2014.

The owner today is Sylvie Cazes, a legendary figure in Bordeaux who has been at various times both president of the Union de Grands Crus and director of Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. She is also the younger sister of Jean-Michel Cazes and part-owner of Lynch-Bages in Pauillac.

Cazes is also owner of Le Chapon Fin restaurant in Bordeaux and on the board of advisors for the Cité du Vin cultural museum. Alongside that, she runs a wine tourism company, Bordeaux Saveurs. Those are all things that have been hit hard and closed down ‘until further notice’ by the current crisis. All the more reason, then, to pull out a bottle of Chauvin from the cellar.

Château Chauvin fact file

Grand Cru Classé since: 1955

Classified area of vines: 14.86ha

Unclassified area of vines: 1.36ha

Owner: Sylvie Cazes

Consultant: Michel Rolland

Technical director: Jérémie Gravier

HVE Level 3 certified since: 2018

*HVE, or ‘Haute Valeur Environnementale’, is a government-backed sustainability scheme for French agriculture. 

The wines in this tasting

The vertical covered wines from 2019, which I will release separately with other en primeur notes, all the way back to 1998. It included every vintage back to 2009, except for the 2017, when frost meant no production.

It also included three exceptional older vintages for St-Emilion; 2005, 2001 and 1998.

Since Cazes’ arrival there have been a few obvious changes. The label, for one, has given new life to an image last used in 1929.

In 2014, the team also added a permanent second wine, Folie de Chauvin, which replaced two earlier versions of a second wine that were only used occasionally.

In most years, Folie de Chauvin accounts for around 30% of total production. The grapes are taken largely from the sandier sections of the vineyard, and young vines.

In the vineyard, studies carried out since 2014 have allowed more accurate plot work. The team has tracked soil resistivity and vine vigour through the growing season, among other things.

Planting density has been raised from 6,000 vines per hectare (ha) to 8,600, and new plantings will see the size of the estate go from 13.5ha in 2009 to 16.2ha by 2022.

The technical team has changed, too, most notably with the arrival of Jérémie Gravier, who worked previously with Miguel Torres in Spain and Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac.

Other changes you find in the glass, most notably an increase in Cabernet Franc. The 2019 used twice as much as some older vintages.

You’ll also see a revival of Cabernet Sauvignon in the first wine. It tends to hover at around 5% of the blend but makes a huge difference to the taste profile, producing a wine that seems to chime with Cazes’ Left Bank sensibilities.

See Jane Anson’s Château Chavin vertical tasting notes and scores

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See all St-Emilion 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle

Read Jane Anson’s full Right Bank 2017 in bottle report

All reviews published online exclusively for Premium subscribers

Of all the big-name appellations, St-Emilion was most impacted by the late spring frosts of 2017.

Some estates, such as Château Corbin, Château Barde-Haut, Château Jean Faure and Château Chauvin made either nothing or only tiny amounts.

There were consequently far fewer wines than usual at the tasting of Grand Cru Classé wines for St-Emilion 2017.

There are 49 members of this club, but only a little more than 30 were showing wines.

Many of those that did make wines have unusual blends. Figeac, for example, had 10% Cabernet Franc, the lowest amount to date at the estate, but you also find the low levels of Cabernet Franc in Angélus, and higher-than-average levels of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot in several others.

There are also style changes, most notably in Troplong Mondot that saw the arrival of Aymeric de Gironde in this year and a break with the older more extracted style of the wine.

St-Emilion was an enjoyable appellation to taste in bottle, as it was during en primeur, and there are some excellent wines to be discovered. But, austerity is overly dominant in many.

Look out for: Château Canon, Beausejour Becot, Clos Fourtet, Pavie Macquin, Troplong Mondot, Valandraud and TrotteVieille.

See Jane Anson’s top St-Emilion 2017 wines re-tasted in bottle

The list comprises wines which scored 94 or above.

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St-Emilion undoubtedly contains some established superstar châteaux, with Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Pavie and Angélus sitting atop the Classification pyramid.

Several other estates have become uber-fashionable in recent years, often as a result of revitalised management and major investment. Canon, Figeac and Belair-Monange, for example, are now amongst the hottest properties in this part of Bordeaux.

So, a small estate purchased in 2010, with a low-profile name and classified as a ‘mere’ St-Emilion Grand Cru, may not set the pulses racing.

However, further investigation is required when one realises that the co-owner is Peter Sisseck, of Pingus fame, and that the other partner involved is Lalique chairman Silvio Denz, owner of nearby Château Faugères and also of Lafaurie-Peyraguey in Sauternes.

Sisseck held a masterclass for sommeliers and press on 14 November, at importer Corney & Barrow, to give more insight on Château Rocheyron.

Scroll down for Andy Howard MW’s Rocheyron vertical tasting notes and scores

Sisseck returns to his Bordeaux roots

Sisseck, a native of Denmark like his uncle Peter Vinding-Diers, cut his teeth as a winemaker in Bordeaux. After a stay at Château Rahoul in 1983-84, he also worked at Simi in California with Zelma Long.

After more time with Vinding-Diers at Château Landiras, Sisseck took a new direction in 1990 and became the technical director of Hacienda Monasterio in Ribera del Duero, where he developed a love for the area and a fascination with the Tempranillo grape.

He then purchased five hectares of land and created his own estate – Pingus – with the first vintage in 1995 instantly achieving world-wide fame. Pingus remains one of Spain’s most iconic, and expensive, wines.

Why St-Emilion?

It’s not surprising that Sisseck has returned to Bordeaux after a 20-year absence, but perhaps more unusual is the St-Emilion location.

At the masterclass, Sisseck reminisced over the wines that had a huge impact on him when he was a young winemaker, noting ‘1982 was such an important vintage in changing the wine world. One of my first barrel samples was 1982 Mouton Rothschild – it had a big effect on me’.

Sisseck also recalls the 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and how he subsequently regarded this wine as one of his ‘reference points’.

So, an estate in Pauillac might have been a more obvious option.

Cost and availability of prime land may well have frustrated him on the Left Bank. But, Sisseck’s fascination with terroir made Roheyron an appealing option in St-Emilion.

The Rocheyron vineyard

Purchased in 2010, it’s a small estate of 8.45 hectares, with 70% of the vineyard planted to Merlot and 30% to Cabernet Franc.

The estate is sited on the renowned limestone plateau, next to Château Laroque and close to Valandraud, Faugères and Fleur Cardinale.

Sisseck highlighted the importance of the limestone around St-Christophe-des-Bardes, which gives cooler soils, encouraging later ripening.

This late developing character saved the vineyard during the devastating spring frosts of 1956, which destroyed many warmer sites, with more advanced growth.

The Cabernet Franc vines at Rocheyron were probably planted in the 1930s and Sisseck said that he was still very pleased with their contribution to the blend.

He plans to increase Cabernet Franc from 30% to 40% of the total vineyard by grafting over existing Merlot.

A change of style

Despite Sisseck’s reputation as one of the garragistes when launching Pingus – and Rocheyron’s proximity to garragiste pioneer Valandraud – his objective with the new project is for a very different style.

He said that he does not favour super-ripe grapes and eschews hefty use of new oak or higher alcohol.

The tasting confirmed that Rocheyron is very different to many of the supercharged St-Emilions – light on its feet, not excessively deep or extracted, and with deft use of oak.

Sisseck said that the advantages of the terroir were highlighted with the 2019 vintage. ‘[It was] a great example, with no water blockage in the driest periods. The deep roots guarded against high temperatures whilst limestone is a great humidity regulator.’

Biodynamics in action

Having learned about biodynamics whilst in Ribera del Duero, Sisseck is working to the same principles at Rocheyron.

He observed with some delight that they had been accepted into the French biodynamic association, a feat ‘very difficult to achieve if you’re from Bordeaux’.

This approach was successful even with the mildew and weather challenges in 2018 that saw Château Palmer yields drop to 11hl/ha and Pontet Canet to 10hl/ha. Rocheyron still delivered 30hl/ha in that vintage, close to the yield which Sisseck considers optimal.

The 2016 vintage stood out in this tasting

This tasting looked at 2012, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages, plus a barrel sample of 2018.

Rocheyron’s first vintage was 2010, but that is not considered a favourite by Sisseck, despite the strong reputation of the vintage overall. The estate did not produce a ‘first wine’ in 2013.

All wines tasted here were marked by purity and precision on the palate, a lightness of touch, floral characters and subtle use of oak.

The quality of the 2016 vintage stood out but, even in the more challenging 2017, the quality of Rocheyron has continued to improve apace.

Clearly this is work in progress but, given the drive, determination and success that Sisseck has had in the past, the future for Rocheyron looks highly promising. This is certainly a property to watch.

See Andy Howard MW’s Rocheyron vertical tasting notes and scores

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The Gallo-Romans customarily named their fifth child Quintus, the term being Latin for fifth, hence the baptism of Domaine Clarence Dillon’s wine venture in St-Emilion on the Right Bank of Bordeaux.

Scroll down for James Lawther’s Château Quintus tasting notes and scores

Now part of a celebrated family that includes the red and white wines of Châteaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, Château Quintus has been building a style and status since 2011 and this short vertical tasting of the eight current vintages helped mark the progress.Finding a place amongst such august company has not been without difficulty and, although the price of the wine has soared, adjustments have been made.The en primeur tastings of Quintus are no longer held at Haut-Brion, as they were until 2018, but directly at the estate to help strengthen identity.And although there is a wealth of winemaking experience and talent on hand in the Left Bank, Quintus is a Right Bank wine and the local conditions and factors have gradually been given greater consideration.

The idea of a top flight St-Emilion in the family portfolio was launched by Prince Robert of Luxembourg, CEO and president of Domaine Clarence Dillon.

It came to fruition with the purchase of Château Tertre Daugay in 2011, which was subsequently renamed Château Quintus. Clarence Dillon also bought neighbouring Château L’Arrosée two years later, and absorbed it into Quintus.

Both estates have a considerable history in the region.

They maintained Grand Cru Classé status throughout the various editions of the St-Emilion Classification and the estates include prized terroirs on the limestone plateau and southern côtes.

The previous owners had kept a reasonable level of investment, so the principle objectives of the new management have been to shape a single entity from the two parts and take the quality of wine to a higher level.

In this respect the wines have already gone through three phases.

‘The first two vintages of Quintus were produced solely from the Tertre Daugay vineyard,’ says estate manager François Capdemourlin.

‘The next two were an early understanding of the two estates, but from 2015 we’ve applied more precision thereby giving a clearer identity to the wines.’

Understanding the terroir has been paramount to progress, both in terms of contrast with the Left Bank and recognition of the individual parcels of vines at the new property.

‘The topography, soils and local climate are completely different from Haut-Brion so, for instance, we need a lower density of planting and higher trellising here,’ says viticultural manager Mariette Veyssière.

Individual parcels now have a varying regime of grass cover, de-leafing and crop thinning to control vigour and ripeness.

Quintus grand vin is generally produced from parcels on the plateau and upper sector of the côtes, while the second wine, Le Dragon de Quintus, comes from the mid-sector and bottom of the slopes.

A third wine, ‘Saint-Emilion de Quintus’, is produced from vineyards on the Dordogne plain.

Merlot plantings have increased, while Cabernet Sauvignon vines have been grubbed-up and the last parcels are soon to go – it struggles to achieve full ripeness here, according to the vineyard team.

The long-term plan is to have a ratio of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc in the vineyard.

Winemaking takes place in the former Tertre Daugay cellars and is fairly classic in execution. A specific gravity Tribaie machine is to sort grapes before Merlot is fermented in stainless steel tanks and Cabernet Franc in wooden ones.

Blending is done in the early part of the new year, as at Haut-Brion, and the wine is then aged in French oak barrels for 12 to 14 months before bottling.

Less new oak has been used since 2015, down to 35% instead of the 40+% used in the initial years, and barrels are subjected to a lighter toasting.

‘The Haut-Brion toast proved too marked for Quintus,’ says Capdemourlin.

The elegance of the wine has started to show, but equal standing with Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion is a giant step and only time will tell. It’s not an easy call with siblings that have a 400-year head start. 

Quintus at a glance

Owner: Domaine Clarence Dillon

Management team:

• Managing director HRH Prince Robert of Luxembourg

• Deputy general manager: Jean-Philippe Delmas

• Régisseur [estate manager]: François Capdemourlin

Area under vine: 28ha

Soils: Limestone and clay-limestone on the plateau and côtes; clay and sandy clay over molasse at the bottom of the slopes.

Average age of vines: 29 years

Grapes grown: 72% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Vine density 5,500-7,700 vines/ha

Average annual production: 2,450 cases (of 12 bottles) of grand vin; 3,000 cases of Le Dragon de Quintus; 1,835 cases of ‘Saint-Emilion de Quintus’

Key dates to know:

• 2011 (June): Acquisition of Château Tertre Daugay by Domaine Clarence Dillon, renamed Château Quintus.

• 2013 (October): Purchase of neighbouring Château l’Arrosée and absorption in Château Quintus.

See James Lawther MW’s Château Quintus tasting notes and scores

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Anson: Tasting Château Figeac wines from 1985 to 2016Finding value in St-EmilionTop 10 Bordeaux 2015 winesSt-Emilion: 10 grands crus classés to watch 

Write a feature on finding value in St-Emilion, the editor said. It doesn’t exist was my instant reply. The name alone carries a premium, conjuring up everything from images of the heavily visited medieval town itself and the accolade of UNESCO World Heritage site, to legendary names like Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Properties are small, 8ha the average size, and land prices rarely fall below €200,000 per hectare with some running to millions. Value: you must be joking.

But then I gave the subject some thought. Scratch below the surface and you do find growers and négociants that make an effort on quality at a certain price. Then you have châteaux that are part of a stable that includes star-studded names, which benefit from the top-down expertise. There are châteaux where a new generation or new investors are pushing harder but prices remain reasonable. And, of course, there are the second wines from some of the premiers grands crus classés – OK, they aren’t given away, but compared to the price of the grand vin, these can offer both value and stylistic affinity. A little insider information helps put this into focus, so with that in mind, here are some of my thoughts.

Stable basis

The most celebrated négociant on the Right Bank is Ets Jean-Pierre Moueix. The house was originally founded in 1937 as a merchant specialising in bulk wines, but it is better known today for its ownership of St-Emilion premier grand cru classé Château Bélair- Monange, as well as a host of top-flight Pomerols including La Fleur-Pétrus, Hosanna and Trotanoy. Sourcing decent wine from around the region was one of founder Jean-Pierre Moueix’s skills and today the house continues to produce an own-label St-Emilion from bought-in wines. ‘The wines have to fit our style, which is one of fruit, balance and freshness – and can come from a range of terroirs,’ explains Edouard Moueix, general manager of the family-owned company.

Production of the Jean-Pierre Moueix St-Emilion bottling temporarily ceased in 2011, but the wine was relaunched with the 2015 vintage and a new art-deco label. The 2016 followed and then 2018, the 2017 absent due to frost. The wines are blended and aged at the company cellars, so benefit from the expertise of the technical team. It’s the perfect introduction to St-Emilion at a very reasonable price. The same wine with a slightly different label is part of the Marks & Spencer portfolio.

Also doubling as négociant and grower, Denis Durantou’s reputation is closely linked to the rise of leading Pomerol estate Château l’Eglise Clinet. Other properties in the same stable include Châteaux Les Cruzelles in Lalande de Pomerol and Montlandrie in Castillon. He also produces a St-Emilion brand, Saintayme, the wine sourced annually (since 2003) from the same vineyard and producer in St-Etienne-de-Lisse. Durantou selects the wine and acts in an advisory capacity, certain practices used at L’Eglise-Clinet applied. This generous 100% Merlot definitely hits the value theme and is approachable relatively early. The same wine is sold by Lay & Wheeler as Château Amélisse (£20 for the 2014 vintage).

Speaking of stables of properties, the one owned by the Vauthier family definitely deserves a mention. The jewel in the crown is clearly the intense, long-ageing, highly priced Château Ausone. The other châteaux (Fonbel, La Clotte, Moulin St-Georges, Simard) fall into a more affordable bracket, none more so than Château de Fonbel. The majority of the 16ha vineyard is located on the alluvial Dordogne plain, making this an example of how technical expertise can make the most of a more limited terroir. The parcels have been drained, density for part of the vineyard is at 8,300 vines per hectare, and the Vauthier-Ausone team is at work in the vines and cellar throughout the year. ‘We use similar winemaking techniques to those used at Ausone, but the contrast is in the terroir,’ explains winemaker Pauline Vauthier.

Yields, of course, are different as well, an average of 30hl/ha for Ausone compared to 50hl/ha for Fonbel, but this remains one of the most refreshing and consistent entry-level St-Emilions around. The same wine has also doubled as Berry Bros & Rudd’s own-label St-Emilion for a number of years. This will change with the 2017 vintage, with crop loss due to frost inciting a change to Château Simard. One last word on the Vauthier stable: make a note of Château Moulin St-Georges. It’s a more serious, long-ageing wine produced from grapes grown on clay-limestone soils opposite Ausone and therefore more expensive. But there’s value here. The only reason it has never been classified is that it shares a cellar with Fonbel. Ausone’s fellow premier grand cru classé (A), Château Cheval Blanc, also has a sister St-Emilion, Château Quinault l’Enclos. The property was bought by luxury goods group LVMH in 2008 and since then has shared the same seasoned winemaking team and philosophy. ‘We try to produce the best grapes possible and not damage them in anyway,’ outlines technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet.

In practice that has meant analysing the sandy-gravel vineyard, replanting certain parcels of vines, augmenting the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, harvesting the grapes earlier, building a new cellar and using 500-litre barrels (50% new oak) for ageing. It’s not Cheval Blanc, but Quinault l’Enclos is finer and more balanced than in the past and offers good value as a grand cru classé.

St-Emilion: know your vintages

2017 Worst frost attack since 1991 led to heavy crop loss. St-Emilion plateau fared best, otherwise variable.

2016 Later harvest but both quality and quantity. High tannin, acidity and alcohol but, nonetheless, wines that are pure, balanced and precise.

2015 Great year for Merlot. Wines with a sunny disposition: rich, powerful and opulent. Lower acidity than 2016.

2014 Saved by an Indian summer. Medium-bodied wines are fragrant, elegant and classic in style. Can provide value.

2013 Most taxing vintage in the last 20 years. Difficult flowering and rot in the Merlot. Light and early drinking.

2012 Up and down season, but Merlot generally harvested before October rain. Fruit and charm for earlier drinking. Some wines offer value.

2011 Challenging year with varied quality. Initially hard and ungiving but they are softening and opening now. Can surprise.

2010 Outstanding year – powerful and concentrated wines with the potential for long ageing.

The idea of finding a suitable substitute for a ‘dream’ château such as Cheval Blanc at a less inflated price is probably wishful thinking. These are one-off estates with a special terroir and history, but here are a couple of suggestions, both grands crus classés. Château Jean Faure is located less than 100m away from Cheval Blanc, has sand and clay soils similar to part of the Cheval Blanc terroir and a vineyard planted with 60% Cabernet Franc. The property has been renovated and restructured since Olivier Decelle acquired it in 2004 and is now organically certified. Once again, this is not Cheval Blanc, but the dominant Cabernet Franc provides a parallel.

Château St-Georges Côte Pavie shares a name, terroir (the Côte Pavie) and boundary with neighbouring premier grand cru classé (A) Château Pavie. There’s a similar force to the wine if not the same intensity and precision, but things are on the move here, with a new generation at the helm. A new cellar is planned for 2020 and a little more Cabernet Franc (presently 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc), so keep an eye on this estate.

Second best?

Probably the closest shot to finding an affordable replacement for these top wines is to opt for the second label. The ownership and technical know-how are the same. Stylistically the two wines are often similar, and price-wise you are likely to pay anything up to four or five times less for a second wine. Admittedly, intensity and longevity are reduced – often the result of young vines, or a parcel or cuvée that doesn’t quite make the grade – but for earlier drinking this could be a bonus.

Three second wines that I feel offer value and interest all come from premiers grands crus classés that either have had or are currently having extensive investment and restoration. Petit-Figeac is the second label of Château Figeac, and with its hallmark blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, really does offer an introduction to the grand vin. Château Troplong Mondot, like Figeac, is having a new winery built. It is also changing to a more elegant style, as is the second wine, Mondot – the 2017 is the first vintage in the new form. Château Canon already has refined lines and since 1996 has established a separate winery and vineyard for the second label, Croix Canon (formerly Clos Canon until 2011).

Committed to quality

Finding unfamiliar names that offer quality and value is a more difficult task. There are 638 producers in St-Emilion, so an ear to the ground and some inside information helps. Château Pindefleurs is an exclusivity of Jean-Pierre Moueix for export markets and the merchant has made a sound choice.

Dominique Lauret bought the 5ha property in 2006, gradually adding other parcels to take it to the present 20ha located on the sand, gravel and clay soils below St-Emilion town. Her daughter Audrey joined as winemaker in 2009 (as well as son Pierre in 2016) and is now turning out some really succulent, approachable wines.

In the past the search for aspiring châteaux was focused close to the town of St-Emilion, but now the net can be cast throughout the region to find quality and value. Château Mangot is located in the eastern sector at St-Etienne-de-Lisse. The neighbouring vineyards are those of Valandraud, Faugères, Fleur Cardinale and Pressac, all châteaux that proved their worth in the 2012 St-Emilion classification. This is a later-ripening zone and the vineyards need careful management – something that brothers Karl and Yann Todeschini have taken in their stride as they build on their parents’ labours. There’s real commitment here and wines with structure and character.

The same can be said for Châteaux Haut-Brisson and Tour St-Christophe, both part of the group Vignobles K. Hong Kong-based owner Peter Kwok has been both patient and perceptive, realising viticulture and winemaking need a long-term approach. Investment has been generous but specific, and a professional winemaking and management team assembled under the orders of manager Jean-Christophe Meyrou.

Originally located on the sand and gravel soils of St-Sulpice de Faleyrens to the southwest of St-Emilion, Château Haut-Brisson was purchased by Kwok in 1997 but evolved in 2015 with the addition of vineyards and a new winery on the limestone-clay soils of St-Etienne-de-Lisse (it is now owned by a private investor but still managed by Vignobles K). The 20ha Château Tour St-Christophe in St-Christophe-des-Bardes (limestone-clay again), just to the town’s east, was acquired in 2012 and has been transformed from obscure cru to grand cru classé in all but name. Both offer value within the context of St-Emilion, as for the moment does grand cru classé Château Bellefont-Belcier, which is also managed by Vignobles K.

Clearly, prices vary among the châteaux mentioned, but hopefully there is something for everyone’s pocket. There’s value to be found, you just need to set a limit.

Lawther’s pick: Top-value St-Emilion

Designing a dedicated winery and tasting room for Cabernet Franc-led Le Dôme marks a return to Bordeaux for Foster & Partners, following the architecture firm’s revamp of Château Margaux cellars in 2015.

Le Dôme’s winery is set to be ready to produce the 2020 vintage, although all work is expected to be completed for an official opening during en primeur tasting week in April 2021.

Jonathan Maltus, who launched Le Dôme with the 1996 vintage and also owns Château Teyssier, told Decanter.com that Lord Norman Foster had been personally involved in the €11m-euro project.

‘I was invited to meet him in Madrid [home of the Norman Foster Foundation]. The meeting lasted for an hour-and-a-half and he started drawing this thing in front of me,’ said Maltus, who previously thought his approach to the company was unsuccessful.

That early sketch has proved central to the final design.

A top-floor tasting room with 360-degree views of the vineyards, as well as of neighbouring Angélus and Canon, will sit above the barrel cellar and winemaking space.

Floors will be linked by an interior and exterior ramp, as well as a circular atrium that will run through the centre of the building, up to a domed, terracotta-tiled, timber roof that will be 40 metres in diameter and supported by an interwoven system of beams.

Foster & Partners said that it wanted the structure to blend into its surroundings.

‘The views and the landscape have always been the primary protagonists of the design,’ said Foster.

‘The process of winemaking is taken to the heart of the building and the upper level provides a flexible area for people to gather and taste the wonderful wine of the terroir.’

It took 18 months to secure planning permission for the winery and tasting rooms, said Maltus.

He said the winery’s capacity would be enough to produce wine from 10ha of vineyards, based on a yield of 32 hectolitres per hectare.

The primary investor in Le Dôme winery was Czech firm J&T Finance Group, led by its wine enthusiast CEO, Patrik Tkáč. J&T Banka also helped finance the project, although precise details were not disclosed.

‘We feel very proud to join Jonathan in this project,’ said Tkáč, who described it as ‘a dream come true’. He added, ‘We have admired his wines for some years.’

Maltus added that he and Tkáč also planned to look for potential vineyard acquisitions in Burgundy and Champagne.

See also: Jane Anson’s review of Le Dôme 2018

St-Emilion is huge. Almost 700 wineries are spread across 5,300ha of land that runs from Libourne and Pomerol in the west over to Castillon in the east, passing through eight communes, and rising and falling at regular intervals as it traces the limestone plateau that forms the rather misshapen backbone of the whole appellation.

Scroll down for Jane Anson’s top wines from 10 St-Emilion grands crus classés to watch

Its size – not to mention its wide variety of soils – means that the St-Emilion classification, which began in the 1950s and is renewed every 10 years, can be invaluable in helping to make sense of it all. The ranking is split into three levels, unlike the five levels of 1855 over in the Médoc, or the single level (thank you Pessac) of the Pessac-Léognan version. There were 82 estates in total at the last St-Emilion classification in 2012, with four at the top level of premier grand cru classé A, 14 at the next level of premier grand cru classé B, and 64 at the third level of grand cru classé.

The ‘Grand Cru’ label that you often see on St-Emilion labels is not a reference to the classification. The exact same geographic footprint covers both AP St-Emilion and AP St-Emilion Grand Cru, the main difference between the two being that the maximum yield is lower and the minimum ageing time higher for AP Grand Cru. The classified wines can only be drawn from this AP.There are ongoing arguments over who deserved what, and why, but personally I find it a great way to take the temperature of St-Emilion. Some of the best-value wines in the whole region can be found within the grand cru classé level, so which châteaux at this level should we be looking out for?

Château Fonplégade

Classified since 1955

One of the best examples of what organic (certification came in 2013) and now biodynamics (certification expected this year) can do to invigorate not only a style of wine, but the entire staff in the winery. I always remember, for example, director Eloi Jacob telling me about the cellar workers getting to work early to feed the chickens, so motivated were they by what was happening in the vineyards. ‘Where cellar workers and vineyard workers were separate before,’ he says, ‘today they increasingly exchange and take an interest in each other’s roles because the estate feels like one whole.’

Fonplégade covers 18.5ha of vine, partly on St-Emilion’s limestone plateau and partly on the clay-limestone slopes. There are sheep, chicken and honey-bee colonies dotted around the estate, and a new structure in 2019 will house all biodynamic preparations, along with drying areas for herbs and plants. A biodynamic garden will also be used as an education centre.

American owners Denise and Stephen Adams are fascinating to speak to, as they are not afraid to talk about what can go wrong as well as right. When they first moved to Bordeaux they bought six estates, then promptly sold four of them when they decided to concentrate on Pomerol and St-Emilion.

‘We didn’t ask enough questions and made some mistakes,’ says Denise Adams with disarming honesty. ‘But we are passionate about biodynamic farming and continue to take a holistic approach to everything we do, to ensure the highest quality.’

Château Barde-Haut

Classified since 2012

There aren’t many classified estates where the owner is also the person you find out on the tractor – day in, day out. It helps, I expect, that Patrice Lévêque was brought up in the Graves at Château Chantegrive. Here, together with his wife Hélène Garcin-Lévêque (whose family are also winemakers, originally from Pessac- Léognan), they are turning this 17ha property into a brilliant example of what can be achieved with hard work and an ability to listen to the land.

Although they used to work with Michel Rolland and Alain Raynaud as outside consultants, today they take all the major decisions themselves. ‘We needed outside help when we first arrived here in 2010,’ Hélène tells me, ‘but now we feel better able to make those choices ourselves.’

They have also stopped using an optical sorting machine, preferring instead to sort entirely by hand and eye, and only in the vineyard, because they don’t want the artificial perfection of the optical machine. Not to say there hasn’t been plenty of investment, including a new cellar in 2010 and the replanting of just under half the vines.

Always full-flavoured and tannic, Barde- Haut is a wine that needs time to soften but ages beautifully. The south-facing slopes, which fall from a height of 90m in altitude, close to Château Troplong Mondot in St-Christophe-des-Bardes, have shallow soil cover before the limestone rock. This means a low pH and tight grip of tannins, but also a beautiful freshness that sculpts the fruit.

The winery uses both 500-litre and 300-litre barrels for ageing, with up to 80% new oak, depending on the vintage. Sulphur dioxide additions are low, and the fermentation vats are cement, stainless steel and oak, ranging in size from 40hl -72hl. ‘We don’t mind the shape, just that they are not too big,’ is how they put it, proving once again that they are highly capable and sensitive winemakers.

Château La Clotte

Classified since 1955

Château Latour heading over from the Left Bank to take on Le Prieuré may have caused quite a stir, but to be fair so did Alain Vauthier of Château Ausone simply crossing the street to buy Château La Clotte in 2015. The name Clotte is said to mean ‘grotto’ in the local Gascon language, and is a reference to the wonderful limestone cellars that lie beneath the property – which, if we’re being honest, were probably the main reason to visit the château in the decade or so before the Vauthiers arrived.

All that is set to change, with a new winery being planned, and 1ha of vines already pulled up (which is pretty serious when you have only 4ha to start with). The usual blend now is 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, with plans to increase the proportions of both Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc over the next few years. With Pauline Vauthier in charge of winemaking, as at Ausone, this is definitely one to watch.

Château La Fleur Morange

Classified since 2012

Jean-François Julien was a carpenter before he became a winemaker. He was also a resident of St-Pey-d’Armens (on the road from St-Emilion as it heads to Castillon), way before he planted any vines there.

In the early years, Julien, along with his wife Véronique, pieced together various plots of vines from around the commune, including some 100-year-old Merlots, and 70-year-old Cabernet Francs, with massal selection used for all new vines. The first vintage arrived in 1999, and was made in his father-in-law’s cellar (who himself owned vines but sold them all to the local cooperative cellar).

It is still one of the smaller classified estates, with 3.8ha of vines, of which just 2ha made it into the 2012 ranking (this isn’t particularly unusual, by the way, because it is the land and not the château name that is classified in St-Emilion – unlike in the Médoc or Pessac-Léognan).

I was there for one of the early harvests in 2005, and I remember the ‘all-hands-on-deck’ feeling, and the joyfulness with which they approached every task. It’s also an exuberant wine in the bottle; really one to savour, with juicy berry fruits and the power that comes from its unusual clay-rich soils (something that you find more typically over in the west of St-Emilion, not over here by Castillon). It’s also worth looking out for its 100% Merlot second wine, Mathilde.

The château remains unconventional – rumour has it that it is planning to release a white wine sometime soon, from as-yet undisclosed grape varieties. I think we can safely assume that it won’t be a 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Château Le Prieuré

Classified since 1955

When the team behind Pauillac’s Château Latour turned its investment and famous eye for detail towards what was a fairly small and inconspicuous St-Emilion estate, you just knew that it was going to be worth following the progress.

It’s still only five years since the purchase of Le Prieuré by Artemis Estates, in co-ownership at first with the Guichard-Goldschmidt family and now, since 2017, in full control. Pénélope Godefroy, former technical director of Latour, moved over to the Right Bank from the moment of purchase and began conversion to both organic and biodynamic farming. Since 2015, the entire vineyard has been ploughed by shire horses. Oh, and Jean-Claude Berrouet has come on board as consultant because, you know, if you can get Berrouet to consult on your wine, you would.

We are once again on prime limestone terroir on the plateau, with southern-facing slopes split across 19 plots. The current footprint is 0.6ha smaller than it will be by 2024, because two plots have been pulled up for replanting, and are currently being left fallow. Density for the older vines is at 6,300 vines per hectare, with all new plots at 7,140 vines/ha. Precision viticulture is aligned here with a joyful purity of fruit – it’s a pretty powerful combination.

Château Laroque

Classified since 1996

If you want to track how Bordeaux has been taking its terroir more seriously over recent years, make yourself an appointment with Château Laroque and its director David Suire, who took over the role in 2015.

It’s an amazing place to visit for the scenery alone: historically the largest estate in St-Emilion, and covering 300ha before the French Revolution, it boasts a history that dates back to the 12th century. Although various pieces of its land have been trimmed off and sold, at 61ha it is still the largest wine estate in the St-Emilion appellation.

In 2018, long-term owner Xavier Beaumartin was succeeded by his nephew Stanislas Droin, the next generation of a family that has been in charge of Laroque since the 1930s (they basically rescued an estate that had been entirely abandoned, but didn’t replant until the 1950s, which is why, despite its history, it missed out on the early years of the classification).

Laroque’s vineyard is planted entirely around the château but across a few very different sections, one with the pure astéries limestone, another with richer red clay over limestone and the rest over east-facing terraces and west-facing slopes of chalky fine blue clay. All are treated differently – not only in the vineyard but also in the cellar, with a mix of barrels, large oak casks, stainless steel and cement vats, depending on the terroir and grape variety. In recent years there has been an increasing focus on ensuring the wine is more supple in its early years. Things are moving here, and I’m looking forward to seeing what is achieved over the next decade.

Château Corbin

Classified since 1955

The Corbin sector, with its cluster of similarly named châteaux, has always been intriguing, because this is where St-Emilion begins to merge with Pomerol. Not just geographically, but also in terms of its soils and, in many ways, its psychology.

With Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet at the helm, there is great energy coming from this château. Although classified since the early days, it has only really been given a new lease of life since Cruse-Bardinet took over entirely in 2006, buying out the rest of her family members and taking control of all decisions herself. ‘I can still make plenty of mistakes,’ Cruse-Bardinet concedes, ‘but at least they are under my control’.

Aside from 2017, which was particularly brutal for Château Corbin – the frost wiped out the entire crop from its 13ha of vines – it has had an impressive recent set of results. With 35% of the vines replanted over the past decade, and a new cellar for the 2016 vintage, there is much more to come.

Château Sansonnet

Demoted 1996, reclassified 2012

This estate shows why the classification system, for all its faults, can work really well for consumers. The demotion in 1996, when it was owned by the Robin family, was no doubt partly why it changed hands three years later, going to the d’Aulan family, formerly of Champagne Piper-Heidsieck. The d’Aulan family invested seriously over the following decade (and stopped the machine harvesting that had been practised previously), but sold again to the dynamic husband-and-wife team of Marie and Christophe Lefevère in 2009.

Fast-forward to 2012, and the work put in by both the d’Aulans and the Lefevères was rewarded by a return to the classification.

The vines are in a single 7ha block close to Chateaux Trottevieille and Balestard la Tonnelle, at 92m with shallow soils that are pretty much straight onto the hard limestone bedrock, meaning excellent natural freshness and a tendency to austerity when young.

Jean-Philippe Fort from Laboratoire Rolland is consultant, and there is an emphasis on techniques to soften tannins and ensure rich fruit flavours – so some integral vinification and ageing that takes place between 70% new oak and two 700-litre amphorae. The resulting wine tends to be packed full of chocolate and black cherry notes and is utterly delicious.

Château Ripeau

Classified since 1955

There are plenty of changes to track over the past four years at Ripeau, ever since Cyrille and Nicolas Grégoire bought the estate from the Janoueix family.

Unlike at Château Fonplégade, the focus here is not on biodynamics, but on ways to use biostimulants to boost plants’ auto-defence mechanisms, and ensuring there are zero traces of any winemaking residues in the final wine that we drink.

Director Julien Salles has set up a program with Guillaume Crocq, a pioneer in the use of biostimulants and products that stimulate the plants’ protective mechanisms to reduce any reliance on chemicals. Copper usage is 50% lower than it would be in biodynamic farming, according to Nicolas.

In 2017, Ripeau was tested on the TFI (Treatment Frequency Index) by analysts at Excell Laboratoire & Conseil, for traces of any herbicides, insecticides, fungicides and a number of other molecules; the tests showed zero traces in the wine.

As with Château Corbin, this estate is located over on the west side of St-Emilion as it approaches Pomerol, meaning you find sandy-gravel soils underpinned by clay. It is planted to 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, at a density of 6,700vines/ha, at an average of 38 years old. Since 2015, 3.5ha of vines have been pulled up, with drainage channels added. Of the 10 wines chosen here, this is at the earliest point on its journey, but with a young and dynamic team in place, there are great things ahead.

Château La Serre

Classified since 1955

I have long loved this wine. It manages to be under the radar despite its brilliant location – slap-bang on 7ha of prime limestone plateau real estate, up at around 90m altitude, with soils that are covered with a shallow layer of clay that differs from 30cm to 1m before hitting the limestone bedrock. It is also hugely consistent, approaching its terroir with care and attention, never shouting too loudly, yet delivering delicious, sappy and fruit-filled wines made from a (usual) blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.

And the team here stand by what they produce. They have the possibility of making a second wine, Les Menuts de la Serre, but it only gets made once in a blue moon (maybe three times in the past 25 years). ‘I can’t remember the last time we made the second wine,’ owner Luc d’Arfeuille, who runs the property with his nephew Arnaud, says cheerfully. ‘Up here on the plateau we have brilliant ventilation, which helps deal with most weather conditions. So even in 2018 we didn’t suffer from any mildew because the north wind always flows across the vines’.

There are signs that this most old-school of estates is on the move. Density of planting has risen over the past five years; from 6,000 to 7,200 vines per hectare, and a new winery was ready for the 2018 harvest, allowing more plot-by-plot vinification in smaller-sized vats, with more precise, softer extractions. No sulphur dioxide is added until bottling, and new oak is kept to about 50%.

Jane Anson is a Decanter contributing editor, Bordeaux correspondent and author of the book Bordeaux Legends

See Jane Anson’s top wines from 10 St-Emilion grands crus classés to watch

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A Bordeaux court of appeal recently upheld the St-Emilion classification of 2012 against a years-long challenge by three estates, Châteaux Croque Michotte, La Tour du Pin Figeac and Corbin Michotte. We may not be finished yet, but that’s another story.

Decanter’s Jane Anson said in a column this week, ‘St-Emilion’s classification system has invariably been overshadowed by arguments and legal battles that run alongside the ranking, but at its heart it is a rebuke to those who believe Bordeaux has no understanding of terroir.’

How does this work?

Most Bordeaux lovers will know that, unlike the largely static Bordeaux 1855 ranking on the Left Bank, the St-Emilion classification – born a century later – was designed to be revised every 10 years.

There are various criteria that classified estates are expected to meet.

For the 2012 ranking, châteaux were judged on their terroir, renown, methods of vineyard and cellar work and through a blind tasting of 10 vintages. This rose to 15 vintages for those wanting Premier Grand Cru status, as previously reported by Decanter.com.

However, not every hectare of vines is classified at a given estate, all the way up to Premier Grand Classé A, as highlighted by Anson in her excellent column on Château La Gaffelière this month.

For example, Château Angélus, which was promoted in 2012 to become one of only four Premier Grand Classé A estates, has 27 hectares of vines classified at this top level. Grapes from these vineyards are used to make the estate’s ‘first wine’.

Its second wine, Carillon d’Angélus, is sourced from 15 hectares of its vineyards that lie within the St-Emilion grand cru appellation, according to the Château’s technical sheets. As a result, Carillon d’Angélus is labelled as a St-Emilion grand cru; still from highly prized vineyards but outside of the classification system – although they have purchased new vines to be added soon.

La Gaffelière has 22ha of its 38ha of vineyards classified as Premier Grand Classé B, although has recently started using only 16ha of its top-tier vines to make the ‘first wine’, Anson reported.

It is this detail that shows the importance of vineyard site in the St-Emilion classification. Of course, to stay classified or to move up, châteaux must know how to make the most of a natural advantage; viticulture and winemaking are naturally also crucial.

Read: Tasting Château La Gaffelière shows St-Emilion’s reinvention

More wine questions answered

See all St-Emilion 2018 wines tasted here

Commentators talk about the evolution of St-Emilion every year but they are often giving estates the benefit of the doubt.

My notes are more cynical than most when it comes to this issue, but 2018 shows the appellation is truly evolving for the better.And that’s with high alcohols, when estates could have all gone utterly crazy.The tannins do still build up, and you still leave the en primeur tasting session with a mouth that needs a good run through a field of flowers, but the wines were more enjoyable than in 2017 and 2016.

St-Emilion 2018 is up there with 2015. I am one or two points above where I was in 2016 in almost every case, and my scores are generally at least equal to 2015.There is always a powerful punch of fruit on the nose that St-Emilion delivers. But more often than not in the 2018 tastings, the wines then peel back layers to reveal minerality, and they were so much the better for it.

The Grand Cru Classé tasting is always a big test of any vintage for me, and I have to say it was one of my most enjoyable ever.

Everything was big, yes, but far more in balance than this vintage would have been 10 years ago.

It was interesting to hear the technical director at Dourthe, Frédéric Bonnaffous, saying that one of the biggest changes he has seen is people not deleafing like crazy as soon as the weather gets hot. Dourthe manages Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac in St-Emilion.

Yields

Getting in to the details, we saw lots of high yields in St-Emilion that will have helped get juiciness through the palate.

Some of this was due to the vines rebounding after last year’s frost. On the limestone plateau, it seemed that estates were reaching generous yields, even with the threat of mildew.

St-Emilion’s average yield for 2018 was 42 hectolitres (hl) per hectare (ha), although the grand cru classés saw an average of 34hl/ha, according to Francis Despagne, the new president of the group.

Individual examples from across the appellation included 50hl/ha at Beau-Séjour Becot, 49hl/ha at Lassègue, 42hl/ha at Canon, 43hl/ha at Cheval Blanc, 39hl/ha at Figeac, 40hl/ha at Valandraud and 47hl/ha at Pavie Macquin.

There were some small yields, too, such as 26hl/ha at Tauzinat Hermitage.

Overall, though, there was juice to play with.

Alcohols

You’re not going to see anything below 14%abv, with almost all St-Emilion 2018 wines clocking in at 14.5%.

A few went even higher, with 14.7%abv reported at Vieux Château Mazerat, Soutard and Tour St-Christophe. Teyssier and Monbousquet hit 14.8%, and Quintus was at 15.2%. There was speculation of some wines reaching 16% but I didn’t see any during my tastings.

pH levels were correspondingly high, although these were better than I expected. Most wines were between 3.6 and 3.8.

This all meant that winemakers had to be careful about the temperature of extraction in the cellar.

Most have handled the fruit carefully with measured extractions; foot off pedal, avoiding wall.

Long harvest 

One of the headline of the vintage in St-Emilion was the long harvest window.

Troplong Mondot and Canon started picking on 7 September didn’t finish until 10 and 9 October respectively – the longest harvest either had recorded.

This was one of the stories of the year here. La Gaffelière harvested from 10 September to 9 October and Beau-Séjour Becot for a month from 11 September.

Estates potentially offering great value: Pressac, La Serre, Rochebelle, Clos de Sarpe

Top Scoring wines overall: Pavie Macquin, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Rocheyron, Beauséjour HDL, Angélus, Ausone, Bélair Monange, Canon, Troplong Mondot, Rocheyron.

Best St-Emilion 2018 wines

The following wines have been scored 96 points and above. See all St-Emilion 2018 wines here.

Back to the main Bordeaux en primeur page

Two ‘five star’ vintages that are now 20 and 30 years old respectively. And both saw the best of the weather and the results on the Right Bank.

Scroll down for Jane Anson’s St-Emilion 1989 and 1998 tasting notes

This tasting looked at 10 wines from five Premier Grand Cru Classé estates in St-Emilion, giving a great opportunity to see how the differing limestones, clays and gravels reacted across the two years, and how they have stood the test of time.

Both vintages saw ideal ripening and excellent ageing potential, with 1989 at the time the warmest vintage of the 20th century, sunshine levels equal to 1961 and heat equal to 1947. 1998 in contrast had a hot start, then an April that saw four times more rain than usual, then the sunshine returned throughout the summer, so the Merlot was ripe before rains returned in October that gave the Cabernets a tougher final stretch. St-Emilion had what was almost certainly its best vintage of the 1990s.

Particularly interesting to put these wines under the spotlight, as we know more about the specifics of terroir in St-Emilion than in any other appellation in Bordeaux. This is true for two particular reasons. Most importantly because the classification uses terroir as an element of its decision-making process, along with taste, notoriety and plenty of other things that continue to cause endless fights. In the 2012 ranking, for example, terroir counted for 20% of the final grade for Grand Cru Classé and 30% for Premier Grand Cru Classé.

To submit their candidature, a château has to carry out an inventory of its vineyard holdings, record any modifications and illustrate the different types of terroir. Which brings me to the second reason for the detailed studies of St-Emilion. This focus on soils means that plenty of smart, hard-working terroir specialists have been attracted to the region, none more so than Professor Kees van Leeuwen, who has carried out exhaustive studies that have allowed him to create a number of highly detailed maps.

St-Emilion is essentially made up of three soils types – limestone, clay-limestone and gravel – with a variety of exposures and altitudes that run from the high point of the limestone plateau, at around 100m, down to the Pomerol borders, where things are between 35m and 40m in altitude. There are also parts of the appellation with extensive sands (these used to be called AOC Sables St Emilion), but these soils are not reflected in the classified rankings and so not included in this tasting.

We looked at two gravel dominant wines, Figeac and Cheval Blanc, and three with varying degrees of limestone and clay-limestone – Clos Fourtet, Canon and Canon-la-Gaffelière.

In the decade between 1989 and 1998, St-Emilion was slowly becoming more gripped by the idea of pushing ripeness and keeping yields low to maximize concentration. Would we see this in the wines? Would it affect ageing potential? Or did these châteaux, all of them renowned Premier Grand Cru Classés, resist the fashion?

Price-wise, it’s the Figeac 1998 that seems to have done the best. It came out at €44 ex-Bordeaux and is now somewhere close to €175 if buying from Bordeaux merchants, so a rise of around 300%. That’s still not bad value compared to Cheval Blanc 1998, which is the only 100-pointer in this tasting but would cost on the Place de Bordeaux €650 today (a little more than the 1989, which is around €480 ex-Bordeaux). Both of these make Clos Fourtet 1998 seem like good value. It was one of the wines of the tasting and is now around €130 ex-Bordeaux.

To put all of these into context, Canon had an ex-Bordeaux price in both 1989 and 1998 of around €28, while Canon-la-Gaffelière was a little more, at closer to €34 ex-Bordeaux. Hard to find today but I saw Canon 1998 listed in the UK at around £50, with Canon la Gaffelière around double that.

Price aside, both years gave some brilliant results, with the edge going, fairly clearly, to 1998.

St-Emilion in figures

Total hectares under vine 5,311ha

Average estate size 8ha

Plantings 79% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon (Malbec, Carmanère and Petit Verdot also planted)

Number of wineries 678

Classified estates 82 at the last ranking in 2012, with 64 grand crus classés and 18 premiers grand crus classés

Tasting St-Emilion 1989 and 1998:

See also: Jefford tastes 1998 Right Bank Bordeaux

Angélus co-owner Hubert de Boüard has rejected any suggestion of wrongdoing after it emerged that both he and Bordeaux négociant Philippe Castéjà were facing possible criminal charges relating to the renewal of the St-Emilion classification.

• Investigation into possible conflict of interest in St-Emilion classification

• Both men strongly deny wrongdoing

• Plaintiffs seeking damages for way 2012 classification was handled

Bordeaux’s Tribunal de Grande Instance, or High Court, confirmed that investigations had last month been opened into 62-year-old Hubert de Boüard, the co-owner of Château Angélus and wine consultant, as well as into Philippe Castéja, the 69-year-old whose family owns Château Trotte Vieille and is a director of one of Bordeaux’s principal négociant houses, Borie-Manoux.

Media reports said the move was related to accusations that the men influenced the 2012 St-Emilion classification in their favour, while acting as INAO (National Institute for Origin and Quality) representatives.

It was reported that the investigation centred on suspicion of ‘prise illégale d’intérêts’. If charges were brought and subsequently proven, the offence carries a potential prison sentence of up to five years, and fines of up to EUR500,000.

Such a charge would be used in cases where ‘personal interest conflicts with a public role’, confirmed a bilingual French/English lawyer.

De Boüard rejected the allegation when contacted by Decanter.com for comment. In an email, he said that he ‘did not take part in the elaboration or the vote of the classification’.

He said that he was ‘certain of my innocence’, and added, ‘It is with serenity that I look forward to the future steps of the procedure’.

According to press reports last week, de Boüard told police that he had not taken part in the INAO deliberations relating to the St-Emilion classification. He denied that he had any influence on the 2012 ranking, which saw Angélus promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A status.

Castéjà also denied any wrongdoing, according to media reports, although he could not be contacted by Decanter.com for comment.

Three St-Emilion châteaux, which were either downgraded or not promoted in the 2012 classification, were acting as plaintiffs in the case.

Lawyer Eric Morain, speaking on behalf of the estates – Châteaux Corbin-Michotte, Croque-Michotte and La Tour du Pin Figeac – described the case as a David and Goliath battle.

He said that St-Emilion’s classification system ‘has been locked from the inside by a few people for the last dozen years and it’s not easy for smaller producers to attack the system’.

He added that his clients were additionally looking for damages to offset their commercial losses due to classification issues.

In late 2015, Bordeaux’s Tribunal de Grande Instance rejected complaints about the classification procedure from the same three châteaux. It ruled that the 2012 classification was legal.

Read articles from Decanter magazine’s November 2018 issue, out now

We asked long-time Decanter contributing editor James Lawther MW to select his favourite estates from these Right Bank appellations. His choice highlights the evolving nature of the region since the 1990s...

Bordeaux became my home in 1996, St-Emilion and the Right Bank an agreeable 25-minute drive away. Leaving the rolling hills of the Entre-Deux-Mers, the road dips and crosses the Dordogne running on towards the elevated epicentre of St-Emilion, the limestone plateau and côtes. Advancing further, the terraces, slopes and châteaux appear. It’s a heartening sight and one that hasn’t palled over the years. Likewise, the medieval town itself – whether bustling from spring to late summer or slumbering in the winter.

In the 1990s the Right Bank was a flurry of activity. The start-up ‘garage movement’ was in full swing, a revised classification for St-Emilion in 1996 caused something of a stir, and viticulture and winemaking were in the spotlight, with ‘progressive’ methods such as green harvesting, grass cover, late-harvesting, extraction and ageing in new oak hot topics.

Scroll down for Lawther’s top picks from his favourite Pomerol and St-Emilion chateaux

Some 20-odd years on, revolution is no longer in the air, the viticultural methods are standard practice and the wilder extremes of winemaking have been toned down. The garage wines that survived are now part of the establishment, the talk these days imposed by wealthy investors and the latest acquisition and amalgamation. Unchanged is the quiet rurality that still holds.

Choosing my top St-Emilion and Pomerol châteaux, I’ve tried to show the fabric of the region, illustrating the evolution since the 1990s. Both the official (Angélus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Pavie) and unofficial (Lafleur, Petrus, Le Pin) top growths have been left aside to allow for a little more scope. It’s a choice that is personal rather than one that is dictated by points.

Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol

It’s difficult not to include an estate owned by Ets Jean-Pierre Moueix in a review of the Right Bank. La Fleur-Pétrus was the first property acquired by Jean-Pierre Moueix in 1950. It has since been expanded by his son, Christian Moueix, and grandson, Edouard Moueix, and now consists of 18.7ha on the Pomerol plateau, a notable size in this tiny appellation.

Clearly, the wine has evolved and we have yet to see the full picture. But it’s safe to say that the renowned finesse of La Fleur-Pétrus shows more depth and structure these days. Merlot is the dominant grape with 90% in the blend, but with a pinch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. ‘We’re convinced a high percentage of Merlot is necessary; it purveys the Right Bank character,’ affirms Edouard.

Château La Conseillante, Pomerol

The continuity of ownership at La Conseillante has been one of its strengths, the Nicolas family being proprietors since 1871. It did, however, make for a rocky period in the 1990s when one family member, a doctor, oversaw winemaking with the assistance of a part-time cellarmaster. The new millennium, though, ushered in a more professional approach, first with Jean-Michel Laporte arriving in 2004 as manager-winemaker, then Marielle Cazaux as director from 2015.

The cohesion of the property goes beyond ownership, the boundaries of the 11.8ha vineyard the same as in 1871, the blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from both clay- and gravel-dominant soils also relatively stable. In fact, it’s the Cabernet Franc and Merlot grown on gravelly soils that provide the minerality and finesse so admired in La Conseillante. What the new management has brought is greater precision, particularly in the vineyard, where Cazaux is now slowly initiating organic cultivation. ‘I come from a viticultural background so have always been close to the vineyard,’ she says. A new winemaking facility, built in 2012, also helps. The style of the wine hasn’t changed but the grain of tannin is finer and the fruit comelier.

Château Valandraud, St-Emilion 1GCCB

What a story: the architect of the garage movement is now an establishment St-Emilion premier grand cru classé. It all started in 1991 when Jean-Luc Thunevin – sometime bistrotier, DJ and bank clerk – and his wife Murielle Andraud, produced the first vintage of Valandraud, a total of 1,280 bottles, in a lock-up next to their house in St-Emilion. Frost and green harvesting reduced the yield, hand-destemming and pigeage saved on finance, while malolactic fermentation and ageing in new oak barrels produced the desired effect. The garage wine was born and the rest, as they say, is history.

Except there are a few elements left unrecounted: the cherry-picking of an increasing number of parcels to produce the wine (disclosure: I worked the harvest here in 2006); prices that surpassed those of the Médoc first growths in the 1990s; the purchase of 8ha Château Bel-Air-Ouÿ in 1999 (now Valandraud), and the introduction of a white wine in 2003.

And alongside all of this, a commitment to quality and precision, and the ambition to have Valandraud recognised. Initially, the wine divided opinion with its onedimensional concentration, but over the years that has been replaced by a complexity to match the ripeness, depth and structure. Don’t think that Thunevin’s ambition has been sated either; he’s eyeing the ‘A’ status in the classification next.

Château Bourgneuf, Pomerol

There’s a sort of hegemony in Pomerol: if you’re not on the high point of the plateau, you can’t run with the elite. Some, though, make a pretty good effort. Château Bourgneuf has been owned by the Vayron family since 1840; the present winemaker, Frédérique Vayron, is the eighth generation. Her parents, Dominique and Xavier Vayron, made some dependable wines through the 1980s and 1990s but Frédérique has pushed on since taking over in 2008, adding greater purity and precision to a typically unctuous, structured base.

The 9ha vineyard, which is in one single block, descends from the heavy clay-withgravel sector of Trotanoy through gravel and clay to parcels of gravel and sand. Frédérique has improved the pruning, employed plot-byplot management, increased exactitude over the harvest date and introduced a second wine from 2012. At the same time, she’s launched a programme of replanting which includes a massal selection of Merlot and Cabernet Franc from a 100-year-old parcel. Bourgneuf may not quite be at the top table, but there’s certainly no need for subordination.

Château Grand Corbin- Despagne, St-Emilion GCC

François Despagne knows all about the trials and tribulations of being downgraded in the St-Emilion classification. In 1996, in the hands of an ailing uncle, Château Grand Corbin- Despagne was stripped of a status it had held since 1955. ‘It was psychologically hard for the family and economically tense,’ he recounts. There was no recourse to the law courts. Instead, Despagne was given the choice of continuing his research alongside Denis Dubourdieu at Bordeaux’s Faculté d’Oenologie or becoming the seventh generation to run the family domaine. He chose the latter.

The arrival of a younger generation was greeted positively as Despagne set about retrieving classification. The wind-blown sand and clay terroir was already a known factor and the 28.5ha vineyard in a reasonable state, but he had trenches dug so that he could understand the 50 different parcels better, introduced grass cover and reduced yields. ‘From someone at home in a laboratory I became passionate about the vineyard,’ he says.

Organic cultivation followed progressively, with the whole estate certified since 2013. The cellars were also gradually modernised and a second wine was introduced in 1998. There’s a happy ending to the story, as Grand Corbin-Despagne was reclassified officially in 2012; the generous, Merlot-led wines a well-established entity today.

Château Canon, St-Emilion 1GCCB

Canon is symbolic of the restoration and change St-Emilion has witnessed in the past 20 years. Ranked first growth since the inaugural St-Emilion Classification in 1955 and ideally located on the limestone plateau, it was in poor condition when purchased by the Wertheimers, owners of Chanel, in 1996. Since then investment, dedication and professional expertise have given the 34ha property a new lease of life; the wines now pure, refined and expressive of the terroir. ‘It’s been a pleasure to lift the property to the status it merits,’ says Canon’s long-serving technical director, Stéphane Bonnasse.

Change did not come overnight as the renovation has been extensive. Nearly 80% of the core area of the vineyard has been replanted, the old vines having been virus-ridden; a portion of the underground galleries were reinforced and the cellars cleaned of a TCA problem as well as being modernised. There’s also been expansion, with the acquisition and integration of neighbouring vineyards, and a 12thcentury chapel remodelled as a separate winery for the second wine, Croix Canon. It’s the sort of project that only a wealthy benefactor could undertake, but it’s been done with taste and consideration, as well as an eye for the style and brand of Canon.

Château Figeac, St-Emilion 1GCCB

Figeac’s 1979 was one of the first wines I ever bought to lay down. This was followed by a case of the 1982. Visits have been reasonably frequent, the highlight a 2001 dinner hosted in the cellars for the now-defunct association of premiers grands crus classés. In short, it’s a property I’ve come to know; the wines, with a high Cabernet content, impressing with their finesse and ability to age.

The late Thierry Manoncourt, a degree in agricultural engineering in hand, established Figeac’s modern reputation in the 1950s and 1960s. His decision to cultivate 35% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot did more than anything to establish the Figeac style. Development since has been steady, but if the estate marked time in the 1990s it is now ploughing ahead with renewed vigour. Much has been accomplished in the vineyard in terms of replanting, and next in line is a new cellar complex in 2019. Already, if progress can be measured by vintage quality, 2015 and 2016 are among the greatest wines ever produced at Figeac.

Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol

‘Quality is in the detail,’ says Alexandre Thienpont, and at Vieux Château Certan that has been made into a fine art. Alexandre’s grandfather, Georges Thienpont, bought the 14ha property in 1924. It was then run by his father, Léon Thienpont, before Alexandre took over in 1985. He has since been joined by his son, Guillaume, so the continuity and family succession are confirmed. It’s this type of shared knowledge, plus a sharp intellect, that has kept VCC at the top of its game. Stumbles are uncommon and stylistically it is rarely blown off course.

The vineyard is the focal point, located as it is at the heart of the Pomerol plateau. One section abuts that of Petrus but overall there’s a different soil profile, which dictates a distinctive spread of grape varieties: Merlot (65%) is planted on heavy clay, Cabernet Franc (30%) on gravelly clay and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) on gravel. The blend can differ radically according to the vintage but the wine remains profound, firm and fine in style. Batches of wine from vines that are under 25 years old are destined for the second label. ‘We eliminate everything that can ruin quality,’ asserts Alexandre.

Clos des Baies, St-Emilion GC

The days of finding tiny, independent, start-ups in St-Emilion are limited but they do still exist. Philippe Baillarguet waited 13 years to make his first wine and 17 to own his first plot of land. ‘I felt I needed the experience before launching out on my own,’ says the man who has been the cellarmaster for Château Ausone and other Vauthier family properties since the mid-1990s. Clos des Baies first saw the light of day in 2006 with a wine made from rented land; 2010 was the first vintage produced from the tiny plot (less than a hectare) acquired on the clay-limestone slope of the côte sud just below Tertre Roteboeuf.

Baillarguet readily admits his personal venture would not have been possible without the support of the Vauthier family. He makes the wine at Château Moulin St-Georges and is assisted in some of the vineyard work by the Ausone team. ‘Prices of land have rocketed, making start-up costs prohibitive,’ he explains. Garage in size, less so in style, his 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc blend is dense, full and firm, with an acidity that highlights freshness and structure.

Tertre Roteboeuf, St-Emilion GC

François Mitjavile has always been a maverick. When custom dictated the Guyot system of pruning, he adopted the cordon system. Low yields and late-harvesting appeared at an early stage. In the 1990s the fashion for power and colour was queried and rejected, the wine remaining resolutely ruby-red and exotic in style. And if, in the early days, the négociants in Bordeaux were unsupportive, then overseas importers provided a solution. The final non-conformist gesture was to eschew classification and drop the ‘Château’ moniker.

He’s followed his own path and in so doing created a unique expression and identity with Tertre Roteboeuf. It’s a bijou property, more Burgundian than Bordelaise, located on the clay-limestone soils of the côte sud. From the start in the 1980s he knew that the 5.5ha estate had to be run in a certain way. ‘Low production and high working costs meant I had to go for outstanding quality and sell expensively,’ he explains. Without classification the wine is up there with the first growths. Stylistically, the opulence, and the quality and texture of tannin, owe much to the Merlot on this terroir being picked on the edge of overripeness, as well as to a lengthy period of maturation in 100% new oak barrels with controlled oxidation. In this approach Mitjavile has never wavered.

See Lawther’s t0p picks from his favourite Pomerol and St-Emilion chateaux