Exploring the wines of the Balkans

The wines of Albania, Serbia and North Macedonia

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Returning to Belgrade, Serbia for its second year, Wine Vision by Open Balkan has quickly solidified its standing as the fourth largest wine fair in Europe.

The four-day event opened its doors on 16th November showcasing more than 570 exhibitors from 30 countries all eager to share their wines with trade and consumers alike.

It’s message for 2023: ‘We have excellent wines and it’s time to get to know them!’

A fair to explore the unexplored, the wines of Serbia, North Macedonia and Albania took centre stage, with producers embracing tradition, indigenous varieties and authentic expressions of international varieties.

Scroll down to see the DWWA 2023 awarded wines showcased

Deeply rooted in tradition, the Balkan’s authentic grape varieties have been embraced and revived by producers of late, with importance placed on white Grašac and red Bagrina, Prokupac and Probus in Serbia, white Tamjanika and Smederevka and red Vranac and Stanušina in North Macedonia and Kallmet, Shesh i Zi, Shesh i Bardhe and Pulles in Albania.

Ahead of the fair, Decanter released its October 2023 issue with a special Balkans supplement in cooperation with Wine Vision by Open Balkan – an in depth guide to the wines, regions and styles, ultimately highlighting the wealth and quality waiting to be discovered. Distributed at the fair, Decanter also showcased more than 25 DWWA medal-winning wines from the hosting countries.

A momentous year for Serbia at DWWA 2023, Vinarija Vinčić’s Grašac 2020 received Serbia’s first-ever spot in the competition’s Top 50 Best in Show list, brining wines from Fruška Gora to the attention of trade and consumers globally.

Six Gold-awarded wines were also sampled at the fair, including one of North Macedonia’s two wines awarded in this category for Tikves Winery’s Luda Mara Vranec 2020 from Tikvesh, Povardarje.

All 90-plus points, the event drew the attention of trade and consumers from near and far, looking to discover the quality wines of these regions as rated by the experts behind DWWA, including joint regional chairs Caroline Gilby MW and Simon Woolf.

A powerful joining of forces between Serbia, North Macedonia, Albania and beyond, attendees of Wine Vision by Open Balkan included the President of the Republic of Serbia, Aleksandar Vučić, the President of Montenegro, Jakov Milatović, the Prime Minister of the Republic of North Macedonia, Dimitar Kovačevski, and the President of Italy’s Veneto, Luka Zaja, alongside more than 30,000 visitors.

Encouraged by the excitement and engagement by trade and consumers, the fair is set to return for its third edition in 2024.

Discover below the full list of DWWA-awarded wines showcased at the fair, well worth seeking out, with more to explore at awards.decanter.com

DWWA 2023 awarded wines showcased at Wine Vision by Open Balkan

Serbia

Vinarija Vinčić, Grašac, Fruška Gora, Srem 2020

Best in Show 97

We’ve grown used to seeing Graševina (whose many synonyms include Laški Riesling, Welschriesling and Riesling Italico, though the variety has no genetic link to Riesling itself) from Croatia in our competition in recent years, but this year the Graševina which emerged as our judges’ favourite comes from Serbia, where the variety’s name is Grašac. It’s clearly happy in the Danubian hills of Fruška Gora, giving ample varietal character without ever descending into caricature. This carefully crafted version is pale silver-gold in colour, with scents in which the characteristic soft gassiness of the variety is held well in check, to the benefit of honeyed grape and pear. On the palate, you’ll find it pure, long, refined, faintly smoky-savoury, textured and tapered: a fine-dining, white-tablecloth version of this demotic charmer. Alc 13%

Bt Winery, Mister Marselan, Fruška Gora, Srem 2021

Gold 95

This wine boasts a rich hue and intense flavour profile of dark fruits, vanilla, and sweet spices. The palate is well-rounded and refreshing, with a long, spicy finish. A standout bargain. Alc 14.5%

Erdevik, Stifler’s Mom Shiraz, Fruška Gora, Srem 2017

Gold 95

Blackcurrant and peppery aromas. Its taste is smooth with hints of chocolate, leather, coffee, spice, vanilla, and toast. The wine’s acidity is zippy and it has a long, toasty finish. Huge but undeniably expertly crafted. Alc 15.5%

Vinarija Jovac, Stella Noir, Centralna Srbija 2020

Gold 95

This is an engaging wine with a lot going on. It has an oaky imprint, lovely notes of sweet spice, red berries, spice and a bright beam of acidity. Finishes lengthily, too. Alc 14.5%

Matijašević Vinogradi, Sovinoa Fumé Blanc, Oplenac, Šumadija-Great Morava 2021

Gold 95

Enticing peach, gooseberry, grapefruit, citrus and oaky aromatics. The palate is complex with notes of stone fruit and lemongrass set against a briney streak of minerality. Persistent finish, too. Be ready to swoon! Alc 14%

Matijašević Vinogradi, Tri Doline, Oplenac, Šumadija-Great Morava 2020

Gold 95

Stunning wine with a captivating aroma of oak. On the palate, the oak is perfectly balanced, accompanied by dry tannins and flavours of ripe plum, cacao, and a subtle hint of green spice. Long finish. Bravo! Alc 15%

Temet, Beli Kamen Merlot, Jagodina, Šumadija-Great Morava 2019

Silver 94

A powerful, dense and youthful wine with fine-grained tannins, lots of ripe dark fruits, elevated alcohol and a long, complex finish. Good ageing potential. Alc 15%

Temet, Ergo, Jagodina, Šumadija-Great Morava 2018

Silver 94

Intense and soft with lots of black fruit, a smooth palate and concentrated fruit core and a lot of oak. Fine-grained tannins with a long finish. Alc 15%

Vinarija Deuric, Severna Morava, Fruška Gora, Srem 2021

Silver 93

Nectarine, Meyer lemon and herbal nose. The palate is juicy with plenty of peach, melon and lemongrass characters. Long finish. Good drinking. Alc 13.5%

Podrum Cokot, Radovan 100% Prokupac, Centralna Srbija 2020

Silver 91

Lovely, well-defined cherry fruit on the nose and palate. Opens up further with oxygen and reveals dark forest fruit, earth and the characteristic spicy finish. Good length. Alc 14%

Vinarija Zvonko Bogdan, Cuvée No.1, Subotica-Horgoš 2021

Silver 91

Ripe black cherry and oaky nose. The palate is warm, full-bodied and intense with fresh acidity and lots of oak. A lovely wine for food. Alc 14.5%

Vinarija Verkat, Barrique Malvazija, Fruška Gora, Srem 2021

Silver 91

Well-made wine with a floral, stone fruit and sweet oak nose. The palate is juicy and structured with a medium, stone fruit finish. Alc 13.5%

Matijašević Vinogradi, Belina, Oplenac, Šumadija-Great Morava 2021

Silver 90

Restrained citrus nose. The palate is quite weighty and fresh with notes of green apple, lime and stone fruit. Fine length. Alc 12%

Vinarija Drašković, Beli Pinot, South Banat, Banat 2020

Silver 90

Intense pear, peach, lemon, vanilla and white pepper nose. The palate is rounded with a nice structure; finishes lengthily, too. Alc 13%

Vinarija Fragaria, Fragaria Selekcija Kruševac, West Morava 2019

Silver 90

Intense vanilla, spice and black fruit aromatics. The palate is dry and full-bodied. Long, liquorice finish. Alc 15%

Temet, Tri Morave Reserve, Jagodina, Šumadija-Great Morava 2019

Silver 90

Orange peel, tropical fruit and floral nose and palate with drying tannins and a long finish. Alc 12.5%

North Macedonia

Tikves Winery, Luda Mara Vranec, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2020

Gold 95

This is a charming, well-made, fruit-forward Vranac with ripe blackberry and prune aromatics, nicely-integrated oak, ripe, polished tannins and high acidity. It concludes with a super long, expensive finish. Alc 15%

Kamnik, Cuvée De Prestige, Skopje, Povardarje 2020

Silver 94

Black cherry, spice, raspberry leaf, coffee, vanilla and oaky aromas. A structured, international style with layers of complexity, well-integrated oak and dense black fruit flavours. Alc 14.8%

Popov Winery, Carmenere Reserve, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2018

Silver 93

Pretty nose with varietal bramble, black fruit and grilled red pepper aromas. Ripe and full-bodied with well-judged oak. Well done. Alc 14%

Tikveš Winery, Barovo, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2021

Silver 92

A beautiful wine with well-defined red and dark fruits, classy oak, high acidity and ripe tannins. Huge potential. Alc 15%

Tikves Winery, Bela Voda Red, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2021

Silver 92

A modern take on this blend with a dried cherry and damson bouquet. The palate has lots of vanilla, clove and sweet wood. Very polished. Alc 15%

Tikves, Bela Voda White, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2022

Silver 91

Youthful but quite classy floral and stone fruit nose and palate. An interesting blend with a spicy finish. Alc 14%

Tikves Winery, Alexandria Cuvée Red, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2021

Silver 90

Black cherry and leather aromas. The palate has notes of summer berries and a hint of ripe raspberry. A high-quality, charming wine with a long finish. Alc 14.5%

Tikves Winery, Babuna White, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2022

Silver 90

Spiced yellow plum, pear and floral nose. The palate is oaky and layered with flowers and oak. Medium, slightly warm, finish. Alc 14%

Domaine Lepovo, Chardonnay, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2021

Silver 90

Pronounced oaky and orchard fruit nose. The palate is full-bodied with well-defined notes of buttered toast. Long finish. Alc 14%

Lepovo, Grand Cuvée, Tikvesh, Povardarje 2019

Silver 90

Deeply concentrated black cherry aromas with prunes and a hint of leather. The palate explodes with tobacco and summer fruit. Alc 15.5%

Albania

Mrizi I Zanave, Kuven, Western lowland 2021

Silver 90

A simple, well-made wine with ripe red fruit aromas and flavours, lively acidity and a long finish. Alc 13.5%

Search all DWWA 2023 award-winning wines

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Novak Djokovic, the world number one men's tennis player who will this week begin defence of his Wimbledon title, has bought land in his native Serbia to start a vineyard.

• Novak Djokovic vineyard to cover five hectares in Šumadija wine region
• Planting set to begin next spring
• Defending Wimbledon champion’s uncle understood to have handled the deal

Novak Djokovic, is to plant vineyards and build a winery on 5 hectares of land in the Šumadija wine region of Serbia.

According to local sources, the land was acquired several months ago through the Djokovic family and handled through the player’s uncle, Goran Djokovic.

The five hectares is located near the village of Lipovac in the sub-wine region of Oplenac, which is part of the main wine region of Šumadija.

According to Vladimir Stojić, director of Media Sector, a Belgrade-based promotion firm that represents the Šumadija Winemakers Association, the acquired land had been a vineyard site more than 50 years ago. It has since been abandoned and is currently woodland.

‘It is now being prepared for the grapevines, with planting taking place likely next spring,’ said Stojić. ‘It is not sure when the winery will be built, but it could be in 2017 or 2018.’

A price tag for the land bought by Djokovic was not disclosed. One hectare of land in the Oplenac area of Šumadija can cost roughly between €4,500 and €8,000 (£3,700 to £6,600).

Djokovic, ranked as the world’s number one men’s singles tennis player, was unavailable for comment during his preparations for Wimbledon.

He was due to begin defending his title there against British player James Ward today (27 June).

• Related: How to buy a vineyard – a Decanter guide

About Serbia’s Šumadija wine region

It is not yet clear why Djokovic, who was born in Serbia though resides in Monaco, chose the Šumadija wine region for the winery project.

But Šumadija, with 1200 vineyard hectares in total, is considered one of Serbia’s premier wine regions. It is the base for the wineries of two of Serbia’s top producers, Boža Aleksandrović and Mija Radovanović.

Mostly international grape varieties are planted throughout Šumadija, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

But in recent years, planting of Serbia’s indigenous red variety, Prokupac, has increased.

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This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Central & Eastern European Red over £15 went to Janko, Zavet Stari, Šumadija-Great Morava, Serbia 2011 (14.3%)

Tasted against:

• DiVes, Merlot Barrique Special Selection, Thracian Lowland, Southern Region, Bulgaria 2012

Profile:

Janko is a youngster in wine terms, with its first vintage only in 2006, and the first commercial vintage one year later. It has no impressive back-story and no picturesque, historic cellars (most of the work is done in a building akin to a large garage), but it considers its youth one of its strengths. A new winery nearing completion will quadruple production to 100,000 bottles a year.

Janko is owned by the Vasic family, who always hoped to one day own a winery as their predecessors did in communist-era Yugoslavia. Winemaking duties fall to 30-year-old Mladen Dragojlovic, who has gained experience around the world including in Chile and Italy.

Along with the owners, Dragojlovic’s wish is to, through his wines, showcase the purity of the grapes used, the diverse Serbian terroirs and a real expression of the vintage. He achieves this with minimal intervention in the cellar.

In the vineyards – which enjoy good drainage and ventilation – you’ll find a mix of international and indigenous grapes planted. This Trophy-winner is Janko’s top cuvée – a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, using only the best barrels of each. Production is just 2,000 bottles a year.

Written by Decanter