Jason Millar, David Kermode and Anne Krebiehl MW tasted 51 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 24 Highly recommended

Vintage Cap Classique: Panel tasting scores

51 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 24

Recommended 23

Commended 2

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their vintage-dated Cap Classique wines made in any style, including blanc de blancs, blanc de noirs, rosé and blends

Vintage pays dividends

This impressive tasting focused on single-vintage wines made mostly from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the same principles as in Champagne, with extended ageing on the lees – the expired yeast cells that accumulate in the bottle during secondary fermentation – and cool-climate fruit both notable features of the best wines.

Like all sparkling wines made in the style of Champagne, South Africa’s Cap Classique is inevitably judged against the high bar of the world’s best.

And in this wide-ranging panel tasting it certainly rose to the challenge: half of the wines scored 90 points (Highly recommended) or more. In addition, all three judges noted the exceptional value on offer given the quality in the glass.

'Absolutely unbeatable when it comes to value'

Although our two top wines are priced on a par with their equivalents in Champagne, ‘Cap Classique is absolutely unbeatable when it comes to value’, according to sparkling specialist Anne Krebiehl MW.

David Kermode agreed: ‘While non-vintage Cap Classique makes a fantastic party starter – a superior alternative to Prosecco or Crémant – it’s definitely worth climbing the quality ladder. I doubt that you’ll find anywhere that offers better value.’

To pick just one example, with more than a decade of lees ageing and a big, bold flavour, the extravagantly rich Jacques Bruére Blanc de Blancs 2013 from Bon Courage (see recommendations, below), can be found for less than £20 via independent merchants – about the price of non-vintage Crémant from France.

Go a little further up the price scale and wine lovers can easily find long-aged, vintage-dated Cap Classique wines, such as Graham Beck’s Cuvée Clive, for around the same price as a non-vintage Champagne.

Yet Cap Classique remains under the radar among Champagne drinkers, because many excellent producers lack mass-market distribution in the UK.

Any lucky readers heading to South Africa should make a special effort to taste them there.

As with the first wave of grower Champagnes a decade ago, wine drinkers must make the effort to track down vintage Cap Classique, but those in search of complexity, richness and finesse will find lots to enjoy.

See all notes and scores from the Cap Classique tasting

The judges

Vintage Cap Classique panel tasting results:

wines were tasted blind

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South Africa’s leading Cap Classique producer, Graham Beck, has launched its first English sparkling wine. The vintage cuvée is the first traditional method fizz made outside of South Africa by the Robertson-based winery.

Made in limited quantities, Graham Beck Artisan Collection English Sparkling 2018 is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in Hampshire and West Sussex. The house worked with four growers to source fruit.

The project was overseen by Graham Beck cellar master Pierre de Klerk and former cellar master and COO Pieter ‘Bubbles’ Ferreira. It marks their final collaboration before Ferreira's retirement.

Speaking to Decanter, Ferreira explained that the idea of making sparkling wine outside of South Africa went back many years. ‘Champagne is obviously the ultimate benchmark for any winemaker in the sparkling wine world,’ he said.

‘But we also did study tours to Franciacorta; we’ve been in Cava country and I’ve been visiting the UK vineyards since the days when there were only three or four wineries here.’

However it was a trip to Düsseldorf wine trade fair ProWein in 2016 that made the idea take root. ‘South Africa was in the New World hall, and next to the South African stand was Wine GB – brand new. There were maybe 10 producers flying the English flag,’ he said, adding that hype around England’s sparkling wine potential also started around that time.

Later that year, Ferreira toured southern England’s key wine regions with winery owner Antony Beck, son of Graham Beck. Helped by Ian Kellet, founder of Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire, they explored the unique geology of the landscape.

‘When we began studying the vineyards and chalk soils of southern England, we recognised the potential immediately,’ noted Ferreira. The chalk formations of the South Downs – similar to those found in Champagne – lend a distinctive mineral backbone to wines. While England’s cool maritime climate can produce base wines with vibrant acidity and pure aromas.

Nicknaming the project GBinGB – Graham Beck in Great Britain – the house decided to work with selected growers, rather than establishing its own vineyards, which as Ferreira explained who have been a 10-year project to achieve first vintage. Instead they set up contracts with growers, arranged access to cellar space in Hampshire and started to produce in 2018, which is widely regarded as one of finest English vintages to date.

‘2018 was a gorgeous vintage in the UK,’ confirmed Ferreira. ‘It was beautiful and ripe. It was sunny – a fantastic year.’

Ferreira and De Klerk visited the vineyards to determine harvest dates and were hands-on throughout vinification, assemblage, tirage, ageing and disgorging of the new cuvée. The parcels of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier were vinified separately, then assessed individually before the final blend was assembled.

A small proportion of the base wines underwent fermentation in neutral French oak, adding texture and complexity to the final cuvée. It was bottled early to maximise extended lees maturation, creating the signature Graham Beck creaminess.

‘The opportunity to bring Graham Beck’s philosophy of traditional-method sparkling winemaking to England is incredibly exciting,’ concluded De Klerk. ‘This wine reflects both the character of its English terroir and the precision and patience that define the House style. It’s a continuation of our pursuit of the perfect bubble.’

Graham Beck Artisan Collection English Sparkling 2018 will be released in the UK this summer with an RRP of £45.

Allocations will also be available in South Africa later in the year.

How does it taste?

Decanter's Regional Editor for South Africa, Julie Sheppard, reviews the new release.

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At the end of March the Old Vine Registry hit a major milestone with 10,000 vineyards registered globally.

Launched in 2023, this public database documents living vineyards older than 35 years and now represents over 40,900ha of historic plantings and 1,144 grape varieties in 42 countries.

But it’s particularly fitting that the 10,000th vineyard to be registered is in South Africa. That site is Beaumont Family Wine’s Hope Vineyard in Bot River, planted to Chenin Blanc in 1974.

It’s just one of many old vineyards in the Cape that are now being recognised as a unique resource for its winemakers – and a source of characterful quality bottles for wine lovers.

They range from Chenin and Semillon vines to plantings of Pinotage, Cinsault, Grenache and Palomino, often planted as dry-farmed bush vines.

Old vine heroes

The preservation of these vineyards has been spearheaded by the Old Vine Project, created by viticulturist Rosa Kruger in 2016.

Kruger’s pioneering efforts to track down old vineyards and help growers preserve them made her the first-ever South African to be honoured in the Decanter Hall of Fame in 2022.

Today the association she founded is one of the most dynamic in the wine world and has over 130 members.

Together they protect 5,159ha of vines aged 35 years and above – the formal definition of an ‘old vine’ according to the OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) – and produce more than 350 Certified Heritage Vineyard wines per vintage.

Spreading the word

‘The South African Old Vine Project has played a major role in the preservation of some very special old vineyards,’ says Wilhelm Kritzinger, cellar master at Bellevue Stellenbosch.

‘They achieved this by creating an international platform, drawing attention to the unique character, high quality wines, that get crafted from the fruit of these old vines,’ he explains.

‘This generated the awareness, recognition, respect and demand for these wines, at international price points, that allows the sustainability of farming these mostly low-yielding old vines.

'This helps the “good fight”, against the ripping out and loss of these precious old vines, purely due to the “economics of it”. ’

Seal of approval

In 2018 the Old Vine Project introduced the Certified Heritage Vineyard seal – a world first – which provides a guarantee that the wine in the bottle is from old vineyards.

The planting date on the label offers drinkers traceability from vineyard to glass.

‘From a market perspective the old vine certification adds value and helps command a higher price and hopefully attract consumers seeking authenticity,’ says Carol Maggs, sales and marketing manager at Welgegund Heritage Wines.

‘South Africa has a rich wine history and old vines are the living records. By protecting our older vines we help tell the story of the dedication of the generations of wine growers and our rich culture of winemaking.’

Back to the future

Why is preserving and promoting these old vines so important? ‘For me, protecting our old vine heritage is about honouring the past, but also investing in the future of South African wine,’ says Duran Cornhill, winemaker for Donkiesbaai in Stellenbosch.

‘From a winemaking point of view, old vines are incredibly resilient against climate change and the more frequent dry seasons we’ve been experiencing in South Africa. The wines have an added layer of intensity, flavour, and structure, which means we get exceptional quality wines with unique terroir expression.’

Marius Burger Jnr, co-owner of boutique producer Roodekrantz Wines, a specialist in old-vine Chenin Blanc, agrees.

‘Old vines naturally regulate their yields and ripen fruit with remarkable balance, often delivering better acid retention, phenolic depth, and site expression,' he says.

'In South Africa, where conditions can be challenging, these vineyards have adapted over decades, making them incredibly valuable. Protecting them is essential, not only for quality, but for long-term sustainability and identity.’

A sense of place

While these old vines have adapted perfectly to their surroundings over time, they can also offer something unique in the glass.

‘Vineyards share many similarities with people, explains Danie Morkel, owner and winemaker at Fuselage Wines in Wellington.

‘Young vineyards, like young people, bring energy and enthusiasm – both essential and invigorating. Older vineyards, however, have weathered seasons and storms. They carry a quiet depth, a sense of place, and a character shaped over time. There is a distinction, a poise, that youthful exuberance cannot yet offer,’ he says.

‘There is room for both. But there is something profoundly meaningful about slowing down and engaging with old vines – where the conversation runs deeper, and the wines reveal a rarer, more nuanced character.’

Look out for the Certified Heritage Vineyard seal on bottles of South African wine if you want to taste that character for yourself.

Here are six bottles to get you started…

A taste of South Africa’s Old Vines

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Keeping up with the fast-paced South African wine scene can feel like following Fashion Week.

One year, the trend is old-vine Chenin Blanc, the next it’s Syrah. Varieties such as Grenache burst onto the scene, while niche varieties such as Tinta Barroca move in and out of favour with open-minded and experimental winemakers.

Yet there’s one style for which South Africa has long been known: Bordeaux blends, wines made from a combination of the main grape varieties of the French region, generally Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

‘If you go back 30 years, it was Bordeaux blends that first built momentum for South Africa on the world stage,’ says Mike Ratcliffe, co-founder of Vilafonté, maker of one of the Cape’s most successful premium Bordeaux blends.

While Stellenbosch dominated conversations about South African fine wine in the decade after the end of apartheid, in the early 21st century, attention shifted to other regions, such as Swartland.

Yet Bordeaux blends never went away and in recent years, the pendulum has swung back towards Stellenbosch and Constantia, where the classic Bordeaux varieties thrive.

Here, change has been less headline-grabbing than in regions such as Swartland, but no less significant. Today the Cape’s Bordeaux blends are better than ever, as was proved in the results of the South African red blends panel tasting in last month’s issue (March 2026).

Increased quality and finesse are being driven by healthier vineyards, an improved understanding of where to plant and a more site-specific and nuanced approach to winemaking.

Beyond imitation

The least technical but perhaps most important change has been a growth in confidence among the estates and winemakers working with the classic Bordeaux varieties.

Luke O’Cuinneagain has two decades’ experience working with them, from Rustenberg to Glenelly and, since 2022, as head winemaker at Vergelegen.

He has lived through an era in which the wines chased ripeness, richness and impact in order to compete in the market.

‘In the past, we were terrified that someone would describe our wines as green, so we waited until the grapes were really ripe,’ he recalls.

‘In the early 2000s, everyone seemed to want to make bigger and bigger wines.’ But as winemakers gained experience with these varieties, they started to believe that their wines could be more than just a version of red Bordeaux.

‘We’re not trying to make Margaux in the Cape,’ O’Cuinneagain says. ‘Our wines often have a taste of dried herbs or the local fynbos, which Bordeaux wines don’t have.’

Letting go of Bordeaux dogma and embracing local variation has been a liberating move for many winemakers. Some now choose to add a dash of Syrah to their Bordeaux blends for spice; others are experimenting with varieties such as Cinsault to add perfume and bring lightness of touch.

Some celebrated vintages helped; the 2015 and 2017 harvests produced critically acclaimed wines for the Bordeaux varieties and, as O’Cuinneagain puts it, ‘gave us the courage to embrace vintage expression rather than trying to make things to a style’.

Zero tolerance approach

An increased focus on viticulture has also been fundamental to improving quality and refining South Africa’s Bordeaux blends.

The drought vintages of 2016-2018 were a major challenge, but they forced winemakers to deal with the Cape’s elephant in the room: grapevine leafroll disease.

As its name suggests, this viral vine malady causes leaves to curl, reducing the plant’s ability to ripen grapes evenly, which is especially problematic for later-ripening red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

It has been widespread in South Africa’s Cabernet vineyards for decades and, while many estates have learned to work around it, in the glass it typically dulls fruit definition, mutes aromatic lift and makes a wine’s ‘shape’ feel less clear – a contrast that has become more obvious as producers replant with virus-free material.

Vergelegen was among the early pioneers in combating leafroll. André van Rensburg, winemaker there until 2022, established the estate’s influential zero-tolerance stance and is characteristically blunt about the trade-off.

‘Virus control is non-negotiable,’ he says. ‘You can make good wine from virus-affected blocks, but you can make better wine from healthy material.’

In reality, many wineries tolerated leaf-roll, precisely because they were still making good wine. In addition, it had been difficult to guarantee virus-free material from local vine nurseries until relatively recently, meaning wineries that thought they had bought virus-free plants were disappointed, yet unable to fund another round of replanting.

Lessons from the drought

The first post-drought vintage in 2019 made it clear that a large number of old Cabernet Sauvignon vines were exhausted and many estates decided that the time was right to replant.

At that point, the conversation moved from coping strategies to hard decisions about grubbing up and starting again. ‘At Meerlust, we started to replant in 2019 and that’s continued since,’ says winemaker Wim Truter, whose first full vintage as winemaker was 2021.

‘We took a hard line: if it didn’t belong in the Rubicon blend, we ripped the Band-Aid off and pulled it out. We replanted with the best clones, on the best sites, with the right rootstocks.’

This new plant material has been a vital driver of improved quality in South Africa’s Bordeaux blends over the last decade and, as the vines age, wine quality is only expected to improve.

While virus-infected vines needed longer for their grapes to reach proper ripeness, the new plant material ripens earlier and more predictably. This has been transformational in cooler, longer growing seasons such as 2023.

‘If we hadn’t replanted with clean material, we wouldn’t have made a wine at all in 2023, because the grapes would not have ripened before the March rains came,’ Truter points out.

Freshness over force

It’s not just about improvement in vineyards, however. Back in the cellars, winemaking has become more sensitive and winemakers have adapted their blending and ageing techniques to prioritise freshness rather than power.

The result has been the emergence of a new wave of Stellenbosch wines with more poised fruit, crisper tannins and lower alcohol than during the 2000s. That doesn’t mean leaner, more austere wines, however, nor does it necessarily mean less oak.

Despite international trends, few grapes work as well with new French oak as Cabernet Sauvignon, and the maturation of wines in barrique remains fundamental for the Bordeaux blends in the Cape.

While new oak remains important, wines are aged in barrel for shorter periods. O’Cuinneagain notes that South Africa’s wines don’t often need the typical 24 months in barrel afforded to top red Bordeaux, for example.

‘With our warmer climate, at 14 months I get the level of wood expression that Bordeaux winemakers get at 24,’ he reveals.

Cape winemaking approaches to Bordeaux varieties are now about more measured extraction, extended post-ferment skin contact to soften tannin texture and ever more precise choices around the coopers who supply the barrels, time in barrel and toast levels (the open-fire charring of the inside of the staves) to allow wood to frame and complement the fruit without dominating it.

Cabernet Franc and the Helderberg renaissance

Much of the finesse of this new era’s Bordeaux blends is down to one variety in particular: Cabernet Franc.

It’s a speciality of two cooler-climate areas in southern Stellenbosch – Polkadraai and Helderberg – both of which are strongly influenced by maritime breezes coming up from nearby False Bay.

It was Bruwer Raats of Raats Family Wines in Polkadraai who led the charge for Cabernet Franc, signalling that cooler corners of Stellenbosch could do something special with the variety.

Alongside Raats, wineries such as Reyneke and De Toren have also embraced it, both as a varietal wine and as part of a Bordeaux blend.

However, its most significant re-emergence in terms of blended wines is on the cool Helderberg mountain in the southeast of Stellenbosch, where vineyards experience less sunlight exposure than in northern Stellenbosch and sit a few kilometres from the sea.

As early as 1995, the Helderberg had captured attention with the production of a wine called Crescendo from the Cordoba farm. It was widely praised for its finesse, but at the turn of the century, this wasn’t the trait that most South African Bordeaux blends were chasing and the last official release was the 2003 vintage.

At the same time, attention shifted away from Stellenbosch and the Helderberg seemed to slip off the radar.

The Cordoba farm continued to supply blending fruit to top winemakers, but without a flagship label to champion the site, it drifted into relative obscurity, even as the 1995 Crescendo gained legendary status among collectors and drinkers.

In 2017, the Cordoba vineyards were acquired by Oddo Vins & Domaines and the estate was renamed Taaibosch.

A Bordeaux blend based on Cabernet Franc, consciously styled in homage to the original Cordoba wine, was released under the Crescendo label with the 2018 vintage. Alongside estates such as Uva Mira, one of the most serious proponents of Cabernet Franc on the mountain, Taaibosch emerged as a standard-bearer for the Helderberg renaissance.

‘Cordoba Crescendo was one of the first Cape blends built around Cabernet Franc, and the Helderberg fruit has a tannin structure that feels completely different,’ says Schalk-Willem Joubert, winemaker at Taaibosch.

‘Cabernet Franc can be picked at the red-fruit stage here without resulting in overly herbaceous flavours in the wine, but with natural acidity and really refined tannins.’

Constantia calling

If the cool climate of southern Stellenbosch was helping to change the perception of that region’s Bordeaux blends, the same was happening near the coast to the west in Constantia.

Here, too, Cabernet Franc has emerged as an important variety that has brought more finesse and perfume to the region’s Bordeaux blends.

‘I prefer the term “Constantia red”,’ says Beau Constantia winemaker Megan van der Merwe with a smile. ‘We have the ocean on three sides so we’re as maritime as it gets. Cabernet Franc and Merlot are the cornerstone varieties here as we are on the cooler part of the ward.’

Freshness is a given in Constantia: high rainfall means irrigation is unnecessary and fewer sunlight hours leads to gentler ripening than in the warmer northern wards of Stellenbosch.

For van der Merwe, winemaker since 2019, the challenge has been about understanding what Constantia’s red varieties have to offer in their coastal climate.

‘From 2019, we’ve consciously softened our touch, both in the vineyard and the cellar, to allow the site to speak more clearly,’ she says.

‘By getting more involved in the vineyards, the individuality of our blocks has come through more distinctly and the wines have gained a greater sense of clarity and balance.’

Beyond fashion

The last decade has seen two standout vintages, a game-changing drought, extensive investment and a reappraisal of where the Western Cape’s strengths lie, particularly with cooler-climate zones and Cabernet Franc.

South Africa’s winemakers know that premium Bordeaux blends might not set the pulse racing among trend-chasing journalists, but the many refinements in the category over the last decade have brought a fresh sense of focus to the wines.

If the Cape’s trend cycle changes with the seasons, Bordeaux blends are a quiet constant and today they’re in serious form.

‘There is a comfort and familiarity in Bordeaux blends,’ concludes Mike Ratcliffe. ‘Their ability to consistently deliver and not disappoint is important. They are still our top-selling premium wines. We might have stopped talking about them, but I don’t think they ever went out of fashion.’

Cape classics: Millar's pick of 12 Bordeaux Blends

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A record-breaking performance for South Africa at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2025 has further enhanced the country’s reputation for producing stellar white wines in many different growing regions.

South African winemakers are no strangers to success at the world’s largest wine competition, but 45 Gold medals at DWWA 2025 is a new high. Results also showcased a fascinating white wine scene going from strength to strength in the country.

DWWA Regional Chair for South Africa Fiona McDonald highlighted several Golds for Chenin Blanc, in particular.

'It’s a genuine delight to see how focused the wines are while retaining a sense of style and personality – much like their respective makers!’ she said.

South African Chardonnay was again a strong performer at DWWA 2025. Top medallists demonstrated stylistic nuance alongside core characteristics of elegance and balance. McDonald emphasised a trend for restraint in terms of oak use and ripeness.

‘It’s also cheering to see Sauvignon Blanc and white blends nudge their way into the limelight,’ added McDonald.

Explore a selection of Gold medal winners below, underpinned by DWWA’s rigorous judging process involving leading experts.

Explore the full results from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

Cape Coast

Quoin Rock, Chardonnay 2022

Gold, 95 points

quoinrock.co.za/

Rhubarb crumble, vanilla custard and lemon curd on toast draws you in, with nectarine acidity and a crushed stone mineral note to end. Alcohol 13%

Cape Town

Durbanville Hills, The Tangram, Durbanville 2023

Gold, 96 points

durbanvillehills.co.za

Buoyant leafy herbs and green tree fruits on a softly structured palate. Smoky oak and vibrant white peach meld nicely with the bright acidity. Alc 14%

Spier, 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2022

Gold, 95 points

£27 Vinvm

Steely, cedary and sophisticated on the nose, giving way to lush buttered brioche and lime marmalade complexity on the palate, finishing with crisp juicy apples. Alc 14.5%

Ceres Plateau

De Grendel, Op Die Berg Chardonnay 2024

Gold, 96 points

US$32-$35 All Star, Empire Wine, Tribeca Wine Merchants, Wine.com

Vibrant aromas of crushed flint and chalk cut through fresh citrus, apple and apricot flavours, with nervy acidity and an appetising texture to lift the finish. Alc 13.5%

Citrusdal Mountain

Donkiesbaai, Steen, Piekenierskloof 2024

Gold, 95 points

£26.95-£30 Dunell’s, Frontier Fine Wines

Old vine Citrusdal Mountain character offering plenty of honeyed melon, apple and peach cordial. Superb waxy texture and lime zest acidity, with a long fennel finish. Alc 13.5%

Coastal Region

Bellingham, The Founders Series Freda 2021

Gold, 95 points

bellinghamwines.com

Charming oyster shell and gun flint notes adorn layers of lime curd and a creamy texture. Generous and bold, with savoury tension to the finish. Alc 13.5%

Elgin

Kershaw, Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2021

Gold, 95 points

£45-£54 Great Wines Direct , Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine, Southafricanwines.co.uk, The Savanna, Vinvm, Winoship

Lemon tart, lime leaf and white blossom nuances crown a chalky texture, with vanilla oak, marmalade succulence and striking acidity. Alc 13.5%

Paul Cluver, Sauvignon Blanc 2024

Gold, 95 points

£17 Frontier Fine Wines

Green grass, leafy herbs and citrus play to the crowd, with a persistent buzz of freshness and a central purity that lingers long. Alc 13.5%

Franschhoek

Backsberg, Smuggled Vines Chardonnay 2024

Value Gold, 95 points

US$27 The Wine Concierge

Lily of the valley perfume fringes the melon, apricot and peach fruit aromas. Cohesive and energetic, with tangy lemon acidity and crushed stone elegance. Alc 13.5%

Overberg

Thamnus, Chardonnay 2022

Gold, 96 points

£44-£48 Hedonism, Museum Wines, Swig

A banquet of sumptuous fruit aromas: mango, melon, peach, nectarine and citrus. A juicily mouthwatering texture, invigorated by a flinty mineral grip. Seamless. Alc 13.5%

Paarl

Perdeberg, Endura Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Paardeberg 2023

Gold, 95 points

perdeberg.co.za

Intense peach, yellow apple and orange fruit interspersed with spiced ginger crumbs. Golden and clingy, generous and entrancing with a long, herby finish. Alc 14%

Stellenbosch

Simonsig, Langbult Steen Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2024

Gold, 96 points

£19.50 Lekker Wine

Blossom and honeysuckle floral aromas combine beautifully with juicy melon and white stone fruit, lifted by crisp sherbet acidity. A long, elevating finish. Alc 13%

Ken Forrester, The FMC Chenin Blanc 2024

Gold, 95 points

£44-£60 Widely available via UK agent Enotria

A scrumptious glass of apple compote and honeysuckle with a briny mineral twist, grapefruit acidity to invigorate and a quenching tug of quince to finish. Alc 13%

Rustenberg, Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2024

Gold, 95 points

£13.90-£16 JN Wine, Moura, Vinvm

A depth of pure lemon, white peach and yellow apple fruit, impressive mineral structure and quenching acidity. Captivating. Alc 13.5%

Swartland

Nederburg, Heritage Heroes the Anchor Man Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2024

Gold, 95 points

nederburg.com

Delightful citrus blossom, peach skin and pineapple perfumes layer nicely in a profoundly concentrated palate, offset by fresh acidity and a stylish mineral streak. Alc 13.5%

DWWA 2026 results announced 17 June 2026.

Discover more at awards.decanter.com

Jason Millar, Roger Jones and Victoria Mason MW tasted 90 wines, with 9 Outstanding and 45 Highly recommended

South African red blends: Panel tasting scores

90 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 9

Highly recommended 45

Recommended 32

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release red blended wines involving any grape varieties, excluding Pinotage, sourced from any region in South Africa

'Consistently high quality'

As exciting and dynamic as South Africa’s new-wave wines can be, this tasting showed that there’s still a huge amount of character, quality and value to be found in the Cape’s more traditional grape varieties.

Stellenbosch blends based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc formed the majority of the wines submitted and were by far the dominant category when it came to the top scores.

The best of these were concentrated, fresh, balanced and structured, exhibiting the steadily increasing quality and confidence of Cape winemaking.

Stylistically, many of these wines were closest to cru classé Bordeaux in sensibility, with some erring towards Napa in their luxuriousness.

Yet most were a fraction of the price of either.

As Roger Jones remarked: ‘Overall, the entries were of a great standard, but what was especially impressive was the price range of the topscoring wines.’

Victoria Mason MW highlighted ‘the consistently high quality across a multitude of vintages with very different characteristics’.

With our nine Outstanding wines (95-96 points) spanning 2020-2023, she noted that many of the best wines possessed ‘inherent energy and brilliant freshness to temper their ripe fruit and natural power’.

Rhône-inspired beauties

Rhône-variety blends also performed well, although in South Africa, the finest fruit from these vineyards tends to go into varietal wines rather than blends.

Even so, Mullineux’s Kloof Street Red, Swerwer’s Swartland Red Blend, Beaumont’s Raoul’s Red Blend and Brookdale’s Mason Road (see recommendations) are high-scoring (93-94pts) and keenly priced arguments for not overlooking

Cape blends based on varieties such as Grenache Noir. South Africa may be the fashionable place to seek out top-notch Syrah, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it’s also firing on all cylinders when it comes to more classic red blends.

In fact, they’ve never been better. If you’ve been snoozing on South African wine, it’s time to wake up and grab your corkscrew.

What to eat with South African red blends, by Fiona Beckett

Given the stellar showing of the classic South African Bordeaux blends, there’s a strong argument for drinking them with meals with which you would be inclined to reach for a claret, or even a Napa Cabernet, with which lead judge Jason Millar makes a favourable comparison.

That’s to say classic roasts of beef and lamb, steak or, for vegetarians, grilled Portobello mushrooms, a pairing I picked up from former sommelier, now winery owner Larry Stone.

Given the price point, they would also be a good companion for a gourmet burger, particularly a cheeseburger, and with the richness and ripeness of the fruit, they could handle a bit of spice, too.

You could think of drinking them with dishes such as the stir-fried chilli ribeye beef I had with a full-bodied Cabernet at Hunan in London’s Pimlico recently.

As far as the Rhône-style blends are concerned, think more in terms of the last slow-cooked braises and stews of the winter, transitioning to early and high summer barbecues – or braais, of course. What better match for a Saffer?

See all notes and scores from the South African red blands tasting

The judges

South African red blends panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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Choosing just three bottles to represent the dynamism and diversity of Australian wine right now was made even harder by the calibre of the contenders.

Penfolds, for example, had 15 wines scoring 95 points or more in Decanter tastings in 2025, with two vintages of Grange (1990 and 2021) awarded 99pts.

But my choices for Wines of the Year 2025 reflect the younger wineries and newer-wave styles that made me really excited during the year.

It’s exemplified by Alkina, founded in 2015, whose detailed, plot-specific wines are rewriting the script for Barossa Shiraz and scooped two top spots in David Sly’s 2023 vintage report.

Flametree, established in 2007, joined Margaret River royalty in Cassandra Charlick’s top 2023 Chardonnays – from a vintage dubbed one of the region’s greatest ever. Chief winemaker Cliff Royle’s SRS (Sub-Regional Series) showcased a single exceptional site in Wallcliffe.

And Ed Carr’s stunning Late Disgorged cuvée is proof of the synergy between Tasmanian terroir and sparkling wine; no comparisons with Champagne necessary. Head east across the Tasman sea to New Zealand, however, and Bell Hill Vineyard in Waikari does bring to mind the limestone soils of both Champagne and Burgundy.

Chardonnay accounted for just 9% of the country’s vineyard in 2024, but as Emma Jenkins MW argues, wines such as the Bell Hill Chardonnay are its best-kept secret.

It’s no secret, though, that South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley is producing world-class Chardonnay, such as the year’s top-scoring Seascape Reserve from Whalehaven, which Roger Jones praised for its Meursault-like focus.

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Mathias Paicheler & Sarah Frissant

Château Coupe-Roses, Languedoc, France

By Natalie Earl

A narrow road winds up to the medieval village of Minerve, tracing the lip of a limestone gorge carved by the Cesse river. The village emerges, perched on a rocky spur at the confluence of the Cesse and the river Brian.

This region bristles with history. Once a Cathar stronghold, Minerve was besieged by Simon de Montfort’s troops during the Albigensian Crusades of the early 13th century.

Further on, around several more bends, the village of La Caunette unfurls below a towering cliff, and above it on the causse – the limestone plateau – lie the vineyards of Château Coupe-Roses.

At 250m-400m elevation, this Minervois micro-terroir is distinct from the plains below, and it’s one that owners Mathias Paicheler and Sarah Frissant hope will one day earn cru status. The siblings took over from their parents Françoise and Pascal Frissant in 2017, becoming the 13th generation to lead the estate.

After studying oenology and working internships, Mathias returned in 2013 with a vision that diverged from his parents’ style. He started small, fermenting small batches with indigenous yeasts and no addition of sulphur dioxide, while also learning their approach.

Françoise may not have liked his early wines, but that was ok – they have different tastes.

Given free rein

Today, the wines are made with little or no SO2, with spontaneous fermentation and less extraction. The challenges have been in retaining the market in light of these changes, and maintaining alcohol balance amid hotter, drier growing seasons.

Biodynamic conversion started in 2019, inspired by a course on bio-indicator plants and soil health. ‘It convinced me that I needed vines on living soils,’ Mathias says.

The groundwork, though, had been laid before: their parents had farmed organically, guided by renowned soil consultants Claude and Lydia Bourguignon. Pascal, once director of the Ribaute cooperative, had pushed every grower towards organics back in the 1980s.

‘We simply pushed things further,’ says Mathias. Sadly, Pascal passed away in August this year, but his vision remains a great inspiration. ‘He taught us that it’s important to have a beautiful vineyard to make good wine,’ says Sarah.

‘It’s about harmony,’ adds Mathias, ‘when the whole system is greater than the sum of its parts.’ By 16, Sarah knew she wanted to make wine with her brother. Like him, she trained in oenology – ‘just in case we didn’t agree’.

She needn’t have worried. They work well en famille. ‘We had open, active, dynamic parents,’ she says, ‘our mother built the brand, and the market for it.’

She observes that other young people in the Minervois aren’t quite so lucky: ‘Their parents are much more conservative, they don’t like change.’

Now they’re planting trees around the vineyards, and co-planting ancient drought-resistant varieties: Grenache, Aramon, Ribeyrenc, Piquepoul Noir, Cinsault.

Their partners, Caroline and David, even quit their jobs to join the business. ‘Not for the money, but for the lifestyle’, says Sarah. ‘It must mean we’re doing something right.’

Reenen Borman

Boschkloof, Stellenbosch, South Africa

By Malu Lambert

His family winery, Boschkloof, sits on the western fringe of Stellenbosch in the Polkadraai Hills, a known sweet spot for Syrah – the estate covers 24ha of which 17ha are planted to vines, about 30% being Syrah.

At less than 400ha, the rolling slopes of the hills are rippled with granite, inviting comparisons to the northern Rhône. A growing number of South Africa’s leading winemakers battle over parcels here, and it’s Boschkloof’s reputation for high quality, chiselled Syrahs that first drew them.

Jacques Borman founded Boschkloof in 1995 after nearly two decades at La Motte and a subsequent tenure at Rupert & Rothschild. From the outset, he envisioned it as a family legacy.

His younger son Reenen joined the estate in 2010. By 2012, aged just 25, he took over winemaking. ‘You can’t have two winemakers,’ reflects Reenen. ‘My father understood early on he had to step aside. In most family businesses it isn’t this easy.’ He concedes there were ‘a few healthy arguments’ in the beginning.

Reenen recalls visiting the La Motte tasting room as a child, and sipping leftover wine. ‘It was probably a sign that winemaking was in my future,’ he laughs.

After studying at Elsenburg Agricultural Training Institute, Reenen gained experience at L’Ormarins in Franschhoek and in 2010 at Domaine des Martinelles in the Rhône valley.

The single-vineyard Syrah Epilogue soon cemented his reputation, with the 2014 vintage becoming the first South African red to be rated at 98 points by an internationally recognised critic. Under other auspices, Reenen also makes the acclaimed Patatsfontein white as well as the cult-like Syrah, Sons of Sugarland.

Natural progression

In Boschkloof’s cellar, the use of new oak has been drastically brought down, with open-top concrete and larger oak vessels favoured for vinifying multiple components separately.

‘My dad’s more of a perfectionist than me,’ admits Reenen. The balance between instinct and precision has become a defining generational difference. Where Jacques embodied structure and polish, Reenen gravitates to wines that are aromatic, textural and fine-boned.

Bordeaux blends, by contrast, he says he approaches with the discipline inherited from his father. ‘My father and grandfather laid the foundation. My contribution is planting healthy vineyards for my boys.’

The next generation seems almost pre-ordained – both of his sons (six-year-old Jacobus and Petrus, three) were born auspiciously during harvests. True to his word, Reenen has already replanted half of the estate with virus-free stock.

With Reenen and his boys at the helm, you get the feeling that long will the Sons of Sugarland rule these granite hills.

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It may look like I have the best job in the world: writing about wine. But sometimes that job is very hard; for example when it comes to choosing just a few highlights from a year of exploring South Africa’s vibrant wine scene.

I genuinely could have written a book…

My year kicked off with a visit to the Cape in January, hosted by PIWOSA producers Journey’s End, Graham Beck and Klein Constantia. This collective of premium independent wineries has spent over a decade promoting top South African wines around the globe.

And their wines are undoubtedly world-class. From Klein Constantia’s historic Vin de Constance to the stylish Bordeaux blends of Journey’s End in Stellenbosch – which we shared with readers in the first-ever South African Decanter Presents… masterclass in May.

Change for the better

But it was the work these wineries are doing at home that had a profound impact on me and makes my first annual highlight.

For so many South African producers sustainability – of their workers and local communities, as well as vineyards, natural habitats and Cape Floral Kingdom – is a vital part of what they do. It’s why buying a bottle of South African wine genuinely makes a difference and creates positive change.

The Journey’s End Foundation (JEF) was set up in 2020 to bring together various projects the winery was running in the local community in Sir Lowry’s Pass village, as well as tackling the very immediate problems of hardship caused by the Covid-19 pandemic.

The initial goal was to provide 10,000 meals a week for those who couldn’t afford to feed themselves and their families.

Food for thought

To date the Foundation has provided over six million meals via a network of six soup kitchens – and its work is ongoing. I visited a kitchen to help serve up some of the 30,000 nutritious meals made every week by a team of local volunteers, funded by JEF.

I met the inspirational and indomitable Joyce, who heads up the kitchen and began her work in 1992 in response to the devastating impact of the HIV/AIDS pandemic.

With tears in her eyes she explained how, in the absence of government funding, support from JEF had transformed her work, enabling her to help so many more people.

Joyce’s kitchen is just one of many winery-led projects that are helping to feed, educate and empower local communities across the Cape. There are now 107 black-owned wine brands and 81 black-owned wine farms in South Africa.

They include Inzuzo, a community-focused company owned by the workers at Journey’s End and We The People, a collaboration with the Kleine Zalze Empowerment Trust. The change is tangible; look behind the labels of your favourite Cape brands and you’ll find many more transformative tales.

Going to ground

Sustainability was also high on the agenda during my Cape travels with Vinimark, distributor for over 60 brands including Boekenhoutskloof and The Chocolate Block. At Reyneke in the cool Polkadraai Hills, I walked the vineyards with Johan Reyneke, a pioneer of biodynamics in South Africa.

A philosophy graduate, he maintains: ‘There can be no greatness without goodness.’ It’s a mantra that permeates every aspect of his wine farm, from soil health to biodiversity; from vines and grapes to animals and people.

Johan has been farming regeneratively for 25 years, based on his dual principles of ‘land caring and land sharing’, establishing biodiversity corridors through the vineyards to create a flourishing ecosystem of native plant and insect life.

Importantly the changes make business sense: ‘Our yields are better than when we farmed conventionally,’ he says. The great new Reyneke Estate Range, launched in June, reflects this holistic philosophy. Seek it out.

Also flying the flag for regenerative agriculture is Wilhelm Joubert, viticulturist at Hartenberg. This historic Stellenbosch estate, founded in 1692, became the first wine farm in South Africa – and only the second in the world – to achieve verification for regenerative agriculture in January this year, under the Ecological Outcome Verification (EOV) framework.

‘We’re doing what is right for the land; the wine is a bonus,’ quips Joubert. Quips aside, its clear that South Africa is now a world-leader in this field.

New wave: 10 years on

From new to old… Various events in 2025 showcased older South African vintages, with verticals stretching back decades. But perhaps the best demonstration of ageability came with the brilliant South Africa’s New Wave: 10 Years On tasting organised by Victoria Mason MW, buyer at The Wine Society and Mark Dearing, buyer at Justerini & Brooks.

This deep dive into the 2015 vintage came 10 years after a pivotal tasting in London, spearheaded by Swartland producers. It thrust names such as Chris Alheit, Chris and Andrea Mullineux, Donovan Rall and Eben Sadie onto a global stage and – as I can remember from the buzz in the room – it perfectly captured the excitement of the New Wave revolution in Cape wine.

But a decade on, how were these wines performing? Mason and Dearing discussed this question during harvest in South Africa in 2024. ‘At the time I was buyer at Bordeaux Index and whenever I offered South African wines, how the wines would age (or would they age at all) was the first question I was asked,’ she says.

‘We wanted to have the ammunition to give collectors the confidence to buy and store these wines for the future. We felt strongly that they deserved to be taken seriously and assessed as robustly as their classic European counterparts.’

The fascinating tasting in May covered 12 flights of Syrah, Pinot Noir, red Bordeaux blends and Mediterranean varieties, plus Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cape white blends and Sauvignon-Semillon blends.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Swartland was the top-performing region; Syrah and Chenin the top grapes. You can see my top wines in the notes below.

Cape Wine

The 10 Years On tasting gave concrete evidence that yes, South Africa’s new wave styles can age beautifully – several bottles clearly had more life ahead of them. More importantly, the price-to-quality ratio of these wines genuinely outclasses their European competitors.

In fact it’s hard to find better value for money anywhere else in the world.

That sentiment was reinforced at Cape Wine in September. This large three-day trade show is organised every three years in Cape Town by Wines of South Africa. Across a week where I tasted just under 300 bottles – at the show itself plus regional events – the quality shone out across the board.

It’s the reason why South Africa should be a go-to for every wine lover, however much they’re looking to spend.

I could have written another book just about my Cape Wine highlights, but as I have to choose – and only have so much space here – I’ll single out two topics that I’ll be expanding on with more in-depth articles in the new year.

Old vines

First is the incredible resource that is South Africa’s old vines. We’ve mentioned this before in Decanter, notably when viticulturist Rosa Kruger joined the Decanter Hall of Fame in 2022 – the first-ever South African to receive that honour. But it’s a message that bears repeating.

Kruger first became interested in old vines on a trip to Europe in 2001. From 2004 she started to track down old vine parcels in her home country, work that fed directly into the New Wave movement mentioned above, as she helped winemakers such as Adi Badenhorst, the Mullineuxs and Duncan Savage locate old vineyards to work with.

Seal of approval

In 2016 this passion was formalised with the creation of the Old Vine Project (OVP), which champions vineyards over 35 years of age. Throughout Cape Wine I tasted wines with a seal showing the age of the vineyard they were sourced from.

Speaking at a tasting jointly organised by the OVP and South Africa’s Chenin Blanc Association, Kruger explained that the role of those seals goes beyond catching people’s eyes on wine merchant shelves.

‘Part of the income from that seal goes to the upliftment and skills development of farm workers. We’ve done that now for a couple of years. It’s wonderful to see how people blossom and grow once they get educated,’ she says.

She added that the OVP isn’t just about preservation; it’s about looking ahead. ‘Our second aim was always to not only preserve old vineyards, but to plant for the future. To plant vineyards now that in 50 years time, your children can enjoy for the next generation.’

Aiming high

Also with an eye on the future, Cape winemakers are investigating high-altitude planting. ‘High-altitude viticulture is a new thing in South Africa and it costs a lot,’ explains Riannn van der Spuy, cellar master at Swartland Winery.

But in the face of climate change, cooler sites offer potential.

During a seminar at Cape Wine, I tasted wines from some of the Cape’s highest sites: Sutherland-Karoo (1,500m), Ceres Plateau (1,100m), Cederberg (1,036m), Elandskloof (980m), Piket-Bo-Berg (800m) and Piekenierskloof (700m).

I suspect these are names we’ll start to see popping up increasingly on wine labels in the future.

Looking ahead

A spirit of optimism for the future was the overriding impression that I took away from Cape Wine and my other visits to South Africa this year.

While the country’s industry was hit with a series of challenges in the past decade – including the Covid-19 pandemic and a three-year drought from 2015-2018 – there’s an irrepressible energy about the Cape’s winemaking scene.

Although there were milestones to be celebrated in 2025 – from the anniversary of South Africa’s signature grape Pinotage, to 50th birthdays for Meerlust and Hamilton Russell and a 100th birthday for Glenelly founder May-Eliane de Lenquesaing – the Cape has its eyes firmly fixed on the future.

Heading into 2026 I’m looking forward to discovering even more great new wines. But in the meantime, here are a few of my favourites from 2025.

Not necessarily my highest scoring wines of the year, these are the bottles that best demonstrate the innovation, energy and trends currently driving South Africa’s wine scene.

Julie’s South African highlights: 12 wines to try

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From Pauillac to Stellenbosch: Celebrating May-Eliane de Lencquesaing at 100

Discovering the best of the Cape wine route: Your ultimate guide

Born in 1925, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing grew up in Bordeaux’s Médoc region, daughter of Edouard-François Miailhe and Victoria-Charlotte Desbarats.

Her family ties to wine ran deep. Her father and uncle revived her grandfather’s brokerage business after World War I, investing in the region when confidence and sales were low.

They bought and ran Bordeaux estates including Château Palmer, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

‘I grew up among the vines – I learned by listening to my father and uncle,’ May-Eliane recalls. ‘I have loved everything about grapes and wine since I was a child. It’s in my blood.’

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 12 superb wines from Glenelly

Family influence

Her Bordeaux was one scarred by the vine-root louse phylloxera, two world wars and low demand.

‘I understood not just the wines but the climatic problems and economic uncertainties as well. I knew difficult times – for the wines and the markets.’

In the 1940s, May-Eliane’s university studies were cut short by her father, who decided she should work in the family office in Bordeaux city, where she learned business, teamwork and management.

An admired yet authoritarian figure, her father was to prove a key influence in her life, although her paternal uncle Louis – more relaxed, less controlling – and her four grandparents also shaped her early interests, between them instilling a love of soils and a passion for conversation, music and literature that would stay with her all her life.

In early May 1948, May-Eliane was introduced to Captain Hervé de Lencquesaing, and her father arranged for them to be married just six weeks later.

She left Bordeaux aged 23 for a life as an army wife, seemingly never to return to the gravel croupes, bustling chais and stately châteaux of her youth.

Return to Pichon Comtesse

Her years with Captain de Lencquesaing were eventful beyond wine, and included time in the USA which she enjoyed immensely, finding great warmth and intelligence in the post-war Midwest.

He retired as a general in 1974, and they were ready for a settled life in Pas-de-Calais in northern France, where May-Eliane was engaged in local politics.

But there was still the issue of her father’s estate.

After nearly 20 years in probate (he died in 1959, aged 61), the inheritance included châteaux, a Champagne house, real estate in Paris and tracts of Landes woodland.

‘The most iconic lot, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Pauillac, fell to me through the luck of the draw,’ May-Eliane recalls. ‘It was precisely what I had hoped to avoid, knowing the responsibility it entailed.’

It was far from her only challenge. ‘I was the first woman,’ she says. ‘There was no one else.’

Corinne Mentzelopoulos had not yet joined Château Margaux; Philippine de Rothschild would not arrive at Château Mouton Rothschild for another decade.

The Médoc wine world was profoundly hostile to the idea of a woman in charge. ‘I had to rely not on truthful men but on the men who lied to me the least,’ she recalls. Her experience in French politics helped, however.

‘In their eyes, I knew nothing. When I joined their conversations, they would stop talking. But when they realised I wasn’t going away, they had no choice but to accept me.’

Work ethic

May-Eliane recognised the need to study modern winemaking if she was to earn respect in the Médoc, and aged 53, she enrolled at Bordeaux University, studying under Professors Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon.

‘I was in Pichon, leaving at 6am for classes, returning at 6pm to work on the administration,’ she says.

Her wines enjoyed great commercial and critical success, from the inaugural 1978 onwards, and she engaged in an intense programme of travel and tasting. ‘I was the one presenting the wines, pulling the cork. It was important that I was there,’ she insists.

But away from her husband and family, she struggled.

‘I was anxious and terribly lonely. My children did not understand my work at all. They thought I was having fun, living in a beautiful château, having dinner parties. My family did not support me; neither did my neighbours in Bordeaux.’

Eventually, General de Lencquesaing joined her in the Médoc, and Pichon Comtesse became a key property in the story of Bordeaux’s renewal in the 1980s.

She was hands-on and in charge of every detail, bringing to bear the fortitude and attention to detail of an army wife with the work ethic and business acuity of her father and uncle.

‘I knew how the flowering had been, and the budding and the maturation. I was never in Arcachon [on the nearby coast] in the summer like everyone else.’ She soon gained the epithet La Générale.

In this busy period she was the recipient of many honours and awards, and at the age of 69 was chosen as the 1994 Decanter Woman of the Year (since renamed the Decanter Hall of Fame award).

No one could have known then that, a decade later, she would be embarking on a new project on the other side of the world, or that she would subsequently be celebrating the conclusion of the 2025 harvest with her winemaking team at Glenelly, in Stellenbosch, at the age of 100.

Uprooting

By the early 2000s, despite its success, the future of Château Pichon Comtesse was uncertain.

The family’s jewel since 1925 (by chance, the same year as May-Eliane’s birth), it was to be sold in a move that surprised many.

‘It was a very difficult decision,’ she says. ‘My son Hughes could have taken it on, but he and his wife decided to stay in Paris. My daughter Violaine had an excellent palate but did not have a relationship with the workers.’

May-Eliane’s respect for her staff at Pichon was a crucial aspect of her time there.

‘If I have been successful it is because I always had a strong relationship with the workers. I would fly back from Chicago or Los Angeles and I would see them in the pouring rain in the vineyard, soaking wet and covered in mud.

‘I was full of admiration. “Thank you for doing the work you do,” I told them, “I’m going to tell you about the work I have been doing.” We talked. I knew them, I knew their families.’

Pichon Comtesse was finally sold to the Roederer Champagne group in 2006, and subsequently May-Eliane was able to devote herself to the development of the Glenelly estate in South Africa, which she had purchased in 2003.

Prior to this, May-Eliane’s first venture beyond Bordeaux had been a collaboration with Washington state’s Château Ste Michelle in the 1990s, though she withdrew from the proposed arrangement when the parent company demanded a fixed annual production volume in the contract.

Glenelly, Mandela & the Huguenots

As president of the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) in the 1990s, May-Eliane met many South African winemakers who were winning trophies with their Bordeaux blends, and Nelson Mandela’s victory in the nation’s 1994 presidential elections deeply moved her.

Her successor at the IWSC, Anton Rupert, a major name in South African wine, urged her to consider the Cape for her new project, pointing out its French Huguenot roots.

‘I told him I couldn’t start planting a vineyard at my age. He said, “Do it in honour of Mandela.” So I did.’

She chose Glenelly in Stellenbosch’s Simonsberg zone (pictured, above), drawn to its decomposed granite soils, varied slopes and reliable water supply – a foresight that proved crucial given the challenges of drought in the Cape winelands.

Though it had previously been planted with vines, Glenelly was a fruit farm when she bought it, and this allowed her to start from scratch with the knowledge she had gained in Bordeaux.

She hired young winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain as cellar master and (much to his surprise) retained long-time agronomist Heinrich Louw, whose deep understanding of the estate she knew would prove invaluable.

Now living in Switzerland, May-Eliane still travels to Glenelly for several months each year. With her grandchildren helping in its running, it’s likely to remain in family hands.

In 2022, Dirk van Zyl took over as cellar master, maintaining important winemaking tenets such as wild yeast fermentation, while taking the bold move to pick not on the basis of technical analysis, but on the taste of the berries in the vineyard.

‘Heinrich is doing everything right in the vineyards in terms of sustainability, cover crops and so on,’ May-Eliane notes, ‘but if we are going to find more finesse in the wines, it will be through Dirk.’

A century into an exceptional life, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing continues to question and refine. Even now, her work is defined as much by what might still be possible as by what she has already achieved.

At 100, she’s still looking to the future.

See Jason’s pick from Glenelly’s admirable portfolio

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As the plane dips into Cape Town’s airspace, the granite monolith of Table Mountain rises to greet you. Its presence magnetises the city, one of the few in the world threaded by a national park. As its granitic folds amble in the direction of Cape Point, its slopes form Constantia, South Africa’s oldest wine region.

The mountain is a reminder of the Cape’s ancient geology, conservatively put at 700 million years old. Mountains are everywhere. Stellenbosch is shaped by four major ranges: Franschhoek is hugged by a bowl of them, the Swartland is the most mountainous of all, while the dramatic corridors of the Breedekloof and Robertson will have you looking out for hobbits.

With winemaking records dating back to the mid-1600s, a trip here is to be immersed in an ongoing dialogue between past and present. Visually, too, picture the white Cape Dutch architecture shrugging up from the earth and slinking side-by-side with sleek, modern wineries.

Hosts with the most

Hospitality here has evolved into an art form. Expect guided tastings, cellar and vineyard tours, some even done safari-style at estates such as Jordan and Villiera. Alongside this is one of the world’s most dynamic food scenes, with its highly original, seasonally focused and affordable fine dining. Places to stay range from centuries-old homesteads to luxurious hotels and nature lodges.

Connecting these experiences is a network of well-established wine routes. Some have sub-routes, such as Cap Classique in Franschhoek. Choose to self-drive or navigate via the Wine Tram: the open-air carriage rolls through vineyards, allowing passengers to hop on and off. The Durbanville Wine Safari links estates via open game-viewing vehicles; while Wellington, Tulbagh and Stellenbosch invite exploration along walkable wine routes.

Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Paarl and Wellington lie close together and are easily explored by car or guided tour, with just 30-60 minutes between them. In under an hour you can be in the vast, open-skied Swartland, northwest of Paarl.

Harvest (January to March) is a buzzy time to visit. A rush of parties coincides with South African wine’s official birthday on 2 February – the date in 1659 when Dutch colonial administrator Jan van Riebeeck recorded the successful first pressing of grapes from the Cape. Block parties known as ‘the Stellenbosch Street Soirées’ happen in summer, too, between November and March. With experiences to suit every traveller, there has never been a better time to visit the Cape Wine Route.

My perfect day in Hermanus

Less than two hours from Cape Town, Hermanus is famous for its land-based whale watching (June to November). It’s also home to the Hemel-en-Aarde wine region – the name means ‘Heaven and Earth’. Divided into three wards, it’s known for top Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and is ideal to explore in a day as wineries lie within easy reach of one another along the serpentine R320 Hemel-en-Aarde Road. Tim Hamilton Russell established the first modern wine farm here in 1975, marking the origin of what locals call ‘little Burgundy’.

Morning & lunch

Begin at Hamilton Russell. Housed in a historic whitewashed cottage near the cellar, the tasting room overlooks a reed-fringed dam. Its premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have all but set the tone for Burgundy-style wines in South Africa. Then head to the newest kid on the block, Hasher Estate, to enjoy your tasting with snacks in the fynbos-encircled grounds. Nearby, family-operated Newton Johnson was set up in the mid-1990s and has earned a formidable reputation for the precision and purity of its Pinots and Chardonnays. Continue to Spookfontein for a seasonal-cuisine lunch, where the glass-and-stone tasting room seems to hover over the vineyards, offering sweeping views to the sea.

Afternoon

Something more intimate, just five minutes’ drive up the R320, is a producer fast gaining cult status: Restless River (Email: anne@restlessriver.com) is known for its Chardonnay and intriguing, cool-climate Cabernet Sauvignon. Visits are by appointment only, and include a vineyard and cellar tour, followed by a tasting in the family home. Across the road, Storm Wines follows the same approach, with tastings hosted by Hannes and Nathalia Storm in their boutique cellar. Here, you can taste the very pulse of Hemel-en-Aarde Pinot: Storm is the only producer crafting wines from all three of the valley’s wards.

Evening

Make your way back down to Hermanus for dinner. In the historic Old Harbour, Perlemoen, ‘abalone’ in Afrikaans, faces the water and serves casual fare. When in season, be sure to try its prized namesake local seafood delicacy. The Marine Hotel is one of South Africa’s grand old seaside hotels. Perched above Walker Bay on the Hermanus cliff path, it offers timeless elegance, ocean-facing rooms and front-row seats for whale watching.

Cape wine route highlights

Located in leafy Constantia, often called ‘Cape Town’s Vineyard’, Groot Constantia offers some of the finest examples of Cape Dutch architecture. Founded in 1685, this national monument is the country’s oldest wine estate. Stroll through its manicured lawns, admiring the ornate gables, on-site museum and art galleries. There are two restaurants, as well as wines to taste. Don’t miss the historic sweet wine Grand Constance, which has origins back in the 18th century. Neighbour Klein Constantia makes Vin de Constance, another icon from the same period.

Under an hour from Constantia lies Stellenbosch, the country’s first official wine route, established in 1971 and now home to more than 150 wineries. Venture further south into Somerset West to reach the winelands’ crown jewel, Vergelegen. Founded in 1700, this 3,000ha estate (117ha of vineyards) is among the Cape’s most storied, with numerous themed gardens and large swathes of protected indigenous vegetation. Tastings take place in a glass-walled space overlooking the vineyards. You’ll find a variety of dining options, including regular pop-up experiences, to please most.

Between Franschhoek and Paarl, Babylonstoren sprawls at the foot of the Simonsberg. The 1692 Cape Dutch farm has been reimagined as a contemporary working estate, centred on its expansive gardens. Pick your own fruit and veg, play pétanque, swim in the farm dam, hike the conical hill that gives the farm its name, or cycle through the vineyards. The estate is home to a boutique hotel, spa, bakery and two acclaimed restaurants. Wine tastings take place in a glass-walled cellar beside The Story of Wine, a museum that’s more like an art installation, tracing winemaking mythology as well as history in Babylonstoren’s inimitable style.

Nearby Paarl (‘pearl’), takes its name from the glistening granite dome that rises above the town, a landmark you’ll spot long before you reach Fairview and its neighbour Spice Route, both owned by Charles Back. From this vantage, the dramatic sweep of the Simonsberg mountains commands attention to the south. At Fairview, enjoy estate-made cheeses and a diverse range of wines while watching the resident goats climb the spiral ramp of their famous tower. Next door, discover Spice Route’s community of local artisans, distillers, craft brewers, chocolatiers and even glassblowers.

Moving away from the coast to Robertson, check out family-run Weltevrede. On a one-hour candle-lit tour of the Chardonnay Caves you’ll go underground into a network of repurposed concrete wine tanks, where you’ll learn the grape’s history culminating with a poetry reading in the deepest part. There’s a Cap Classique sparkling wine experience along similar lines, and you can even bottle your own bubbles. The estate’s Kapokbos bistro is a delicious way to crown things off.

‘Welcome to Chenin Country’, the sign proclaims as you travel back west into the Breedekloof, and yes, this is the king grape here. Meander through the valley, soaking up the unpretentious hospitality of its down-to-earth farms, many offering accommodation with a focus on agritourism. A short drive brings you to the architectural marvel that is Bosjes. The estate’s ethereal chapel, with its swooping white roof inspired by a bird in flight, appears to float on a reflective pond. The landscaped gardens, sculpture walk and stylish restaurant add to the appeal.

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Accommodation

Boschendal

Ideally positioned between Franschhoek, Stellenbosch and Paarl, offering chic luxury in restored heritage buildings. Enjoy hiking, biking, markets and restaurants, as well as bespoke activities; the children’s Tree House programme is particularly magical.

Kokos Huis

Experience the Swartland like an insider at this boutique bolthole run by Prisca Llagostera, wife of natural winemaker Jurgen Gouws of Intellego. Expect sunrise vineyard braais with local producers and private tastings at cellars not open to the public.

Spier

Cape Dutch heritage meets modern style, with a focus on sustainability. This new hotel on the fringe of Stellenbosch is a country dream, with airy, art-filled interiors, a spa and access to all this working wine farm has to offer.

Restaurants

Chefs Warehouse at Beau Constantia

Perched above Constantia valley, Chefs Warehouse promises panoramic vineyard views while indulging in chef Ivor Jones’ punchy, seasonal small plates. The wine list features estate bottlings alongside a top local selection.

Creation Wines

High up in the Hemel-en-Aarde, Creation is a hub of creativity. The estate offers a variety of innovative, seasonal pairing menus that engage all the senses, from touch to taste. A la carte, breakfast and brunch options are also available.

Jordan Restaurant

In Stellenbosch’s Polkadraai Hills, offering rolling vineyard views and chef Marthinus Ferreira’s delectable, ingredient-focused dining. The terrace is ideal for long lunches paired with Jordan’s acclaimed wines.

Things to do

Franschhoek Motor Museum

On the historic L’Ormarins wine estate, this museum showcases more than a century of automotive history. Join a guided tour, grab a bite at the deli and take the tram across to Anthonij Rupert Wines for a tasting.

Root44 Market Experience

Stellenbosch’s weekend buzz with a lively scene of local wine, craft beer, food stalls and live music under the oaks. Visit The Wine Emporium for its wine shop, restaurants and art gallery.

Wine Flies

From booking private tastings and helicopter visits to family-friendly, cultural as well as food-and-wine pairing tours, Wine Flies has you covered.

How to get there

International flights touch down at Cape Town International (CPT), and it’s about 20 minutes to the city centre. The majority of the winelands are easily accessible from CPT: it’s about 25 minutes’ drive to Constantia and 40 minutes to Stellenbosch (the region is large, so allow up to an hour end-to-end); Franschhoek and the Swartland can be reached in just over an hour, and Hemel-en-Aarde in 90 minutes.

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This year’s International Pinotage Day, the second Saturday in October, marks an extra-special celebration for the grape, as it turns 100 years old (although the jury is out on whether the centenary reflects the date of crossing or planting (see below)).

Back in 1924, Professor Abraham Izak Perold of Stellenbosch University crossed Cinsault (then often referred to as Hermitage) and Pinot Noir, planting the first seeds the following year. The variety now makes up around 6% of vine plantings in South Africa.

Don’t miss the ultimate wine experience – book your tickets now for the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2025.

It’s a grape that has had a bad (ahem…) press over the years, with some critics dismissing its wines as bitter, boozy and with a burnt rubber undertone. But increasingly there are great examples which ‘put the Pinot into Pinotage’, according to Decanter’s South Africa Editor Julie Sheppard. Some of the most highly-prized expressions come from old, low-yielding bush vines.

A single-varietal red wine may showcase plum, strawberry, red and black cherry and blackberry, sometimes with a hint of banana. Spice, chocolate, smoke and coffee notes can develop with oak-ageing. It’s also a variety used to make fruit-forward rosés.

The grape has become synonymous with the term ‘Cape blend’, establishing itself as the USP of South Africa’s red blends. Proportions used in the mix vary widely – from 30% to 70% – and since 2019 there has been a requirement for Pinotage to be the major component.

Outside South Africa, small amounts are grown in other wine producing regions including California, New Zealand, Australia and even England.

Pinotage is a great match for barbecued meat, burgers, venison, beef stews and heartier vegetable dishes such as spiced, stuffed aubergine and mushrooms.

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The 41st Cape Winemakers Guild Auction has already set a new benchmark for South African fine wine, with a record number of lots scoring 95 points or higher from leading critics in pre-tastings.

A total of 48 rare and exclusive wines from South Africa’s top winemakers will be on sale, featuring 30 reds, 17 whites and for the first time, a fortified wine.

Speaking to Decanter at a pre-auction tasting of all 48 bottles, Samantha O’Keefe, chair of the Cape Winemakers Guild (CWG) said: ‘The lineup this year reflects the confidence that South African producers have at this stage in our growth and our evolution.

‘The elegance and the poise is something that you feel and that only comes with maturity and confidence. You’re seeing a new generation coming into their own,’ she added.

The CWG was founded in 1982, with the first auction in 1985. Membership of the guild is by invitation only, and the 42 winemaker members collectively choose the wines for each auction. These exclusive wines, made in limited quantities, are only available via the sale.

Highlights from the pre-auction tasting held in London, included the first-ever 100% Carignan on the CWG Auction: AA Badenhorst Family Wines Out of the Strong Comes Forth Freshness 2024, made by Adi Badenhorst.

Also made by Badenhorst is the first fortified wine to be included in the auction. The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co, Saldanha Pale Dry Sea, Salt, Sand and Wind will be sold in 500ml bottles.

Other firsts for the auction include former Kanonkop winemaker Abrie Beeslaar’s first Pinotage under his own label: Beeslaar CWG Pinotage 2023. Lots also include the first red wine on auction for JD Pretorius: Warwick Auction Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon 2022.

Hannes Storm makes his CWG auction debut with two wines: Storm Wines Bokkeveld Shale Pinot Noir 2023 and Storm Wines Bokkeveld Shale Chardonnay 2023. While John Seccombe also makes his inaugural appearance with Thorne & Daughters Sand Castles 2024, a Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend.

The 2025 CWG Auction is a hybrid event that will take place in person at the Lord Charles Hotel in Somerset West, South Africa, as well as online at Strauss & Co.

Online bidders will need to create a bidder’s account and register for the opportunity to bid online in real-time via the Strauss & Co website, or by telephone or commission bid.

Running alongside the main two-day auction is the CWG Protégé Auction, with online bids open until 6pm on 6 October. Lots include rare verticals, unique collections and tasting experiences with Guild members.

There will also be bottles made by young winemakers who are part of the CWG Protégé Programme, set up in 2006 to offer three-year internships to promote diversity and inclusivity in the South African wine industry. All proceeds from the Protégé Auction are channelled back into supporting the protégés.

‘The auction gives collectors unique examples of some of the greatest wines coming from South Africa,’ said O’Keefe. ‘They’re being given an offering that is on par with anything that they could get anywhere in the world – and they’re also contributing to the future and diversity of the South African wine industry.’

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From smuggling Burgundian plant material to pioneering the use of new oak in red winemaking, Jan Boland Coetzee’s legacy was defined by courage and a deep connection to the land.

‘Wine is a mirror of the environment. You need to listen to the voice of the land,’ Coetzee once said.

The voice of the land

Coetzee played flank for the Springboks from 1974 to 1976. The day after his passing, the team faced New Zealand, opening with a moment of silence in his honour. He must have been the extra fire in the team’s boots, because they handed the All Blacks their heaviest defeat in history.

Adi Badenhorst, the well-known wine producer behind his family label, had known Coetzee all his life through their fathers’ friendship, and says he had a profound influence on him.

‘Jan was one of those complete enigmas, a deep thinker behind a gruff exterior,’ said Badenhorst. ‘When he spoke, his knowledge of South African farming, wine, and his sense of humour kept us listening for hours, especially to stories of him growing up on the West Coast.’

Early roots in the Cape

The Coetzee lineage runs deep in the Cape, tracing back to 1679 when the family arrived in Table Bay.

From Stellenbosch’s Coetzenburg the family moved to the West Coast and was among the first to farm Grenache in Piekenierskloof.

Generations later Coetzee was born into humble circumstances. From modest beginnings he went on to Stellenbosch University, where he deepened his connection to wine and excelled on the rugby field, graduating with a degree in oenology.

He began his winemaking career at Kanonkop in 1967, and in 1973 produced the estate’s first vintage. Drawing on friendships with Bordeaux coopers he made during his rugby days in France, he introduced barriques to Kanonkop.

In 1980 he bought Vriesenhof on the slopes of Stellenbosch’s Paradyskloof, releasing the farm’s first vintage the following year. Here, he worked with Pinot Noir and Grenache long before they were fashionable.

Chardonnay, by any means necessary

During this time, white winemaking at the Cape was largely limited to Chenin Blanc and Colombard. Coetzee, a lover of Burgundy, was determined to change that.

He moved his family of five to Beaune. From there he began sending Chardonnay plant material back to South Africa, tucked into chocolate boxes, hidden in jacket linings, and even smuggled in nappies.

Illegal as it was, the rumours soon reached the bureaucrats. In 1986, Coetzee and his fellow conspirators were summoned before a Commission of Enquiry. Instead of prison time, the embargo was lifted and the case inspired the formation of the Vine Improvement Association (VIA).

Around this time his family grew, too; another son was born, bringing the total to four children.

Decades later, his grandchildren share in his legacy. Badenhorst recalled, ‘He was a wonderful grandfather to my children. I’m grateful he had the chance to know them. When a man like Jan leaves his mark, it burns deep, and you are never the same again.

‘I’ll miss sitting with him on the stoep, sipping Vriesenhof Chardonnay, talking about Burgundy, climate change and the great South African vintages. His knowledge was profound. He could recall the exact rainfall of February 1977.’

Badenhorst added, ‘A massive tree has fallen, whose roots have touched thousands of people, both inspiring and disrupting the status quo. That’s my Jan Boland Coetzee. I’ll miss him immensely.’

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The new frontier is coming of age. Look back 25 years ago and South Africa’s vast Swartland region was dismissed. The idea of fine wine being made in this hot, dry place, rolling with golden wheat fields, seemed absurd.

But a few brave producers broke through the boundaries set by the controlling regime of the time. Released to prospect new areas, they transformed the very face of South African winemaking.

Today, the appellation is just 100ha shy of Stellenbosch. Chenin Blanc and Syrah still make the finest wines, as they have historically, with the grapes dominating plantings. Pinotage is also notable, with lighter, new wave styles being made alongside more traditional bottles.

Farming is becoming progressively regenerative and climate-resilient grapes are being planted. While the potential of the Swartland’s diverse, ancient geology is being investigated like never before.

Mapping the Swartland

Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines and viticulturist Jaco Engelbrecht aren’t afraid to dig deep. With minimal financial backing, they have spent the past two years constructing a highly detailed map of the region, now available online.

‘It’s for the geeks,’ laughs Engelbrecht. They’ve identified up to 700 polygons – specific soil types or combinations delineated by boundaries – and condensed these into nine ‘soil introductions’.

‘What makes it unique is that we have simplified the complex geology and linked it to the effect on wine styles of the different areas,’ underlines Sadie.

The new map is available online in low resolution at Swartland Wine and Olive Route. High-resolution printed versions can be ordered from the Swartland Wine and Olive Route at R650 per map.

Exploring St Helena

Swartland has seven official wards: Malmesbury, Paardeberg/Perdeberg, Paardeberg South, Piket-Bo-Berg, Porseleinberg, Riebeekberg and Riebeeksrivier. St Helena is an outlying satellite classified as WO Swartland, under the subregion Cape West Coast.

Sadie’s Skerpioen comes from here. So, understanding the potential, he and Engelbrecht embarked on a planting programme in 2019.

Currently there are 6.5ha of Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Vermentino, Verdejo, Assyrtiko, Bastardo do Castello, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir and Cinsault. ‘It’s a very dry area,’ admits Engelbrecht, though he cites the cooling Atlantic fog, underground aquifers and chalky limestone soils as factors that make it well suited to viticulture.

As an aside, Paardeberg neighbour Adi Badenhorst who makes his Sout van die Aarde Palomino from grapes planted here, has recently opened a Sherry ‘bodega’ in an old filling station in Saldanha, called The Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co, which doubles as an oyster bar.

Standout blends

Back to the Paardeberg for Sadie’s annual release tasting, which took place in his cathedral-like cellar, flanked with rows of concrete eggs. Recently built on their farm Rotsvas, the state-of-the-art winery serves as a reminder of how far Sadie, and the Swartland, have come. The next generation, sons Markus and Xander are part of the family business now too.

Sadie revealed that his flagship white blend, Palladius 2023 contains 25% of the West Coast fruit project. Alongside this, he introduced two new Mediterranean field blends from young vineyards on the farm, the red Sonvang and white Twiswind.

Parallel lines of thought took place in Riebeeksrivier, home to the Mullineux’s Roundstone farm. Andrea and Chris Mullineux are in the process of certifying Roundstone into ‘regenerative-organic’ – which will be a first for a South African winery. The project includes the release of two new Roundstone wines. While not traditional field blends, they are also a multi-variety mix of climate-resilient grapes.

Quality in Riebeeksrivier

Riebeeksrivier is nicknamed the ‘Côte’ for its band of prestigious producers, shale-rich soils and optimal western Kasteelberg slopes. As well as Mullineux, other notable producers here include Yellowwood Winery. While Rall Wines, Tim Hillock, and Lenuzza Wines make use of the Yellowwood cellar.

Anthonij Rupert’s Cape of Good Hope label focuses on single-parcel, heritage sites in Riebeeksrivier. Boekenhoutskloof owns Goldmine farm as well as the stand-alone Porseleinberg, home to the cult Syrah of the same name. Porseleinberg was made for 15 vintages by Callie Louw, succeeded now by Eben Meiring.

Experimental wines

Closer to the central rural towns, there’s interest stirring in Riebeekberg. Kloovenburg is experimenting with Garnacha Peluda, called Hairy Grenache for its climate-busting hirsute leaves. While the historic co-op, Riebeek Valley Co has got hip with the times with its small-batch, old-vine experimental range RAAR: think skin-contact Chenins and carbonic Shiraz.

Down south in Malmesbury, the ambitious Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards is the region’s southernmost farm. Its hyper-modern cellar is capable of producing high-volume, quality wines, with specialities being Chenin and Syrah.

Meanwhile nearby Klein Amoskuil is turning back time with over 20 buried qvevri employed in making its orange wines.

Rebels and revolutions

From earth to sky. In the far north, natural wine proponent Johan ‘Stompie’ Meyer recently cut the ribbon on a new Wine of Origin, Piket-Bo-Berg. The lofty site is being dubbed ‘cool climate Swartland’ because of its 650m altitude. It can be up to 8℃ cooler which, unusually, has Meyer planting Chardonnay and Pinot.

What was that about absurd? Never underestimate the spirit of the Swartland.

‘Rebellious, irreverent and somehow deeply serious all at once,’ is how Andrea Mullineux describes it. This feeling distills into the bacchanalia that is the Swartland Revolution, having returned this year for its 15th anniversary.

Aptly titled Back to the Future, the event took shape as a hay bale maze in a Paardeberg field. Dubbed ‘The Straw Colosseum’ by Andrea, it hosted 350 people over two days. She was struck by the fact that it wasn’t nostalgia that coloured the event, but rather the future.

‘The next generation isn’t just coming, they’ve arrived,’ she says. ‘They’re building on what we started, but doing it in their own voice.’

Swartland at a glance

Size: 11,585ha, which equates to 13% of the national vineyard.

The Swartland is the fifth most-planted region in South Africa, but the largest in terms of surface area at approximately 999,000ha.

Top five grapes:

Chenin 2,332ha

Syrah 1,871ha

Cabernet Sauvignon 1,582ha

Pinotage 1,282ha

Sauvignon Blanc 1,053ha

Source: SAWIS

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As we wade through the sticky, sultry dog days of summer, the allure of cool and refreshing drinks becomes not just more tantalising, but necessary.

And perhaps you’re currently feeling a little jaded by just the one style of wine you’ve been drinking over the past few weeks, too hot and bothered to muster up the brain power to try anything else.

A long, hot summer can be an awfully long time to constantly drink just the one rosé after all.

So if you’re stuck in a summer rut, here are three top tips to find something else to shake up your summer evenings and languid days by the pool.

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1. Wines made by the sea

It sounds obvious or perhaps rather silly, but wines made from coastal regions really do seem to have the juice when it comes to the best styles of wines for summer sipping.

Is it the varieties’ intrinsic nature? Does proximity to the sea really give them a salty tang?

Are winemakers in these areas just more clued-in to the style of wines that work best with your feet in the sand and the roar of the surf in your ears?

Maybe a mix of it all?

Either way, there’s no doubt that if you want a great wine for the summer, think of places beside the sea as a good starting place.

There are loads of wines which just scream summer and beach holidays, accompanied by fresh seafood.

There’s Vinho Verde from northern Portugal, Txakoli from Spain’s Basque country, Muscadet from the Loire.

Heading into the Mediterranean we have the refreshing salty lick of Manzanilla Sherry, the herbal freshness of Xarel-lo in Catalonia, brisk Picpoul de Pinet and pale rosé from the southern French coast, stony Vermentino from Sardinia and Tuscany and the kaleidoscope of varieties from the Greek islands.

2. The faraway Mediterranean

And that’s just Europe we’ve been talking about. But don’t forget that much of the winemaking world operates on the same principals and proximity to the ocean in the warmer climes of the Americas, Africa and Antipodes is often essential to help moderate the temperature.

As such, a great many non-European regions are also seaside wines par excellence.

This is particularly true when many of these Mediterranean-esque regions are also producing wines made from grape varieties you’d expect to find in Europe, such as Albariño – which has seen an increase in worldwide plantings in recent years.

Large chunks of California, the Chilean littoral, the Cape in South Africa, Western and South Australia and the islands of New Zealand are great places for crisp and refreshing whites made from Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Semillon and so forth.

3. Beyond Provence

Finally, a word on rosé. Provence set the bar years ago with its brilliantly pale and limpid pinks.

These boosted rosé from being one of the has-been afterthoughts of global viticulture to a runaway hype-train of luxury labels and copycats.

But popularity comes at a price and Provence is now at a premium. However, you don’t have to look far to find wines that are essentially identical.

Both the nearby Languedoc and Roussillon produce extremely delicious rosés in much the same style as Provence and with the same grapes but for a fraction of the price.

Indeed, such has been the impact of pale Provence rosé, that around Europe and the world, you can now find your desire for chillable pink fulfilled by pretty much every country and region mentioned above.

Remember that Liz Gabay MW gives us a rundown each year not only of her pick of the latest Provence rosé releases, but her selection of the best rosés from around the world.

Below is a selection perfect summer white and rosé wines that have been tasted recently by the Decanter team or one of our esteemed experts.

With any luck it’ll give you some extra inspiration for something new to put in the fridge before the summer is through.

Decanter Cellar: 25 white and rosé wines for summer

Wines are listed white then rosé in score order

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South Africa‘s Swartland region is both literally and figuratively remote. It is a long way from the Cape Dutch architecture of Stellenbosch, the mountainscape of Cape Town and the Huguenot avenues of Franschhoek.

It is wide open, a vast prairie of wheat fields and dusty tracks that feels more like something Steinbeck might have written about than a wellspring of contemporary Cape winemaking.

Scroll down for eight scrumptious Chenin Blancs and other wines from David & Nadia

Yet in the space of 30 years, Swartland has moved from curiosity to pioneer to icon. That‘s thanks to a relatively small group of producers, among them David and Nadia Sadie.

They have been working here since 2010 and quietly building a reputation for some of South Africa‘s finest and most ageworthy wines.

The pair met in their final year at Stellenbosch University; Nadia studying conservation and soil science and David specialising in viticulture. After graduation, they moved to Tulbagh near the Swartland.

‘We started from scratch,‘ David says. While Nadia worked for an environmental company, David took a job at local winery Saronsberg Cellar. By 2010, they‘d relocated to Malmesbury in the Swartland, where David was buying fruit.

The early wines – a white blend called Aristargos and Elpidios red blend – were based on contracted fruit from decomposed granite soils across Swartland.

Talkin’ about a revolution…

That same year, the producers of the Swartland Revolution held their first iconoclastic event, presented by flip-flopped winemakers who seemed as keen on surfing and beer as they were on wine and farming.

It turned heads and turned the region into one of the most closely watched in the Southern Hemisphere.

‘The timing was perfect,‘ Nadia remembers. ‘We were living in Tulbagh, and we knew it had to be Swartland.’ The mood in the region was bold, collaborative and optimistic.

‘I think if the Swartland Revolution had never happened, we would still have made Swartland wines,‘ adds David. ‘Swartland was and is my home. But the Revolution motivated me a lot.‘

By 2013, they had agreed a lease on a cellar with a Chenin Blanc vineyard at the Paardebosch ranch in Malmesbury not far from where David‘s parents lived.

They now found themselves stewards of a rather special 3.6ha vineyard of old vine Chenin Blanc, which they called Plat’bos, meaning ‘flat bush’. From then on it formed the basis of their classic Swartland Chenin Blanc bottling.

Chenin specialists

Although the white and red blends continued to be produced, as well as a Grenache Noir, the new wines added to the range in the years to come would expand on the promise of Chenin Blanc.

The production of single-vineyard Chenin Blanc wines began with the 2015 vintage of Skaliekop. It was followed by Hoë-Steen and their home site of Plat‘bos as a single-vineyard wine in the 2018 vintage.

Most recently, with the 2021 vintage, Rondevlei has added to a strong range of Chenin Blanc from complex soils.

‘Specialisation is more relevant than ever before,‘ David argues. ‘Plus it‘s exciting to see the diversity of the variety. It can deliver generous bottlings at a young age, but it can also give restrained, understated, linear styles. Even with these extreme, challenging vintages, I can‘t see us planting anything new other than Chenin.’

‘Micro-farming’

Precision viticulture is key, and the focus is tight. ‘We do 100% Swartland, 100% dry-farmed bush vines. No trellising. Poor soils. Low yields. No irrigation,’ explains David. ‘I want the vintage to express the rainfall.’

Farming without irrigation isn‘t easy, but along with his (unrelated) namesake Eben Sadie, David believes that it‘s essential to the concept of terroir. Vineyards are replanted using massal selection from existing old vines, rather than clones from nurseries.

Nadia‘s background in soil science has been fundamental in exploring the sense of place in the wines. In 2016, she joined the business full time, and the name on the label changed from David to David & Nadia.

‘In 2023, I did 60 profile pits just in Plat‘bos,’ she says. ‘In less than 4ha, we mapped different soils – clay, sand, iron – and split the vineyard into separate blocks, which allows us to harvest and vinify separately. It‘s micro-farming,’ she adds. ‘We work with drones to refine how we farm, block by block.’

Precision winemaking

Winemaking is both precise and traditional, utilising spontaneous fermentations in the cellar and avoiding inoculated yeasts, as well as new oak. Concrete and used barrels are the ageing materials of choice.

Fruit is generally picked across multiple passes to achieve a balance of acidity and ripeness at remarkably modest alcohols (around 13%) for the climate. The focus is on preserving steely acidity and tightly coiled structure in youth.

‘I don‘t want to say that we are making a lighter style, but rather a less extracted style,‘ Nadia says.

They continue to push for the highest quality. Since 2020, they‘ve made the switch from natural to technical, taint-free corks, and have made the decision to hold back some magnums to demonstrate how well their wines age in bottle.

A sense of place

Although initially restrained, the wines unfurl with time and patience. ‘If blind tastings score these wines lower, so be it,‘ David says. ‘I want to have a 10- or 20-year vision, as opposed to starting big and flashy to get the scores. We‘re not chasing trends. We‘re chasing site expression.’

But the long-term vision, as for many of South Africa‘s younger generation of winemakers, is far from mapped out.

The couple are working on more stable 30-year lease agreements for their vineyards, pushing for more security and farming control in the vineyards they lease, and planting their own sites with climate resilience in mind.

But there are no plans to increase the scale of the business. ‘We‘re happy with our volumes,’ Nadia says, which are around 60,000 bottles. ‘The focus is on quality now.‘

Inspired by the work of producers as diverse as Thibaud Boudignon in the Loire, Comando G in Spain‘s high-elevation Gredos and Yves Cuilleron in the Northern Rhône, the goal is simple, according to David.

‘We want to be at the same tables as the best wines in the world, but we are farmers first of all. Understanding and fine-tuning the vineyards better and better – that‘s our priority for the future.’

David & Nadia wines: Top Chenins and a few extras

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Kanonkop – the Stellenbosch estate widely regarded as a South African ‘first growth’ – has appointed Francois van Zyl as head winemaker.

‘It’s a great honour,’ said Van Zyl of the appointment. He will be only the fourth winemaker in the estate’s 50-year legacy, following in the footsteps of Jan ‘Boland’ Coetzee, Beyers Truter and Abrie Beeslaar.

Owned by brothers Paul and Johann Krige, the Stellenbosch icon is known for its world-class, ageworthy Pinotage and Bordeaux-style reds.

‘I’m not here to reinvent the wheel,’ said Van Zyl. ‘But I am committed to building on what’s come before. We will always protect what the brand stands for: quality and consistency.’

While Van Zyl formally took up the position in November 2024, the official announcement was only made recently at the release of the Paul Sauer 2022, the estate’s iconic Bordeaux blend.

His arrival coincides with what he believes is one of the great vintages of the modern era.

‘It’s an auspicious start, with 2025 shaping up to mirror the 1974 vintage,’ said Van Zyl. The latter is both his birth year, as well as what is largely considered to be South Africa’s ‘vintage of the century’.

A tenured winemaker, Van Zyl added: ‘I’ve got 36 harvests of knowledge, and maybe 10 to 15 years left in my career. My approach is about adding value in different ways now.’

Now aged 50, in many ways Van Zyl has come full circle. ‘I became a winemaker because of Kanonkop,’ he said.

Growing up in fairly rural Robertson, Van Zyl first had dreams of becoming a doctor. Being accepted to medical school he found himself working in the family’s carpentry business in order to pursue that goal.

That was until Truter, then Kanonkop’s winemaker, presented a tasting in his hometown. The next morning, Van Zyl resigned and set off to study winemaking.

His experience includes stints in Rioja, Pomerol, Margaux, Slovenia and Serbia.

Despite his international experience, he’s the first to joke that for such a long career, he’s moved a very short distance. From Elsenburg, where he earned his degree, to Laibach (where he was at the helm for 26 years) and now, next door to Kanonkop.

Laibach – now known as Ladybird Vineyards – was acquired by Kanonkop in 2022, increasing the estate’s vineyard footprint to 130ha.

The estate’s second label, Kadette, will have a devoted production facility here. Though there are currently no plans to bottle under the Ladybird label.

Joining Van Zyl from the property is longtime viticulturist Michael Malherbe. Cellar support continues from winemakers Christelle van Niekerk and Suzaan Krige, co-owner Paul Krige’s daughter.

A replacement for outgoing winemaker Ruan Van Schalkwyk, who has joined Boekenhoutskloof, is expected to be announced soon.

‘You always dream of a job like this,’ said Van Zyl. ‘Kanonkop started it all, and this is my chance to give back.’

Related content

Major shake-up at Porseleinberg and Boekenhoutskloof as Callie Louw departs

A drink with… Abrie Beeslaar of Beeslaar Wines

South Africa’s next generation: Six brilliant winemakers forging a new scene

‘Porseleinberg will outlast us all,’ said the estate’s proprietor Marc Kent, comparing the inevitable transience of the human experience to the timelessness of the site. He shared this while relaying the news of Callie Louw’s upcoming departure from the Swartland concern this August.

Kent acquired the small, schistous Porseleinberg in 2009, looking for a site to grow quality Syrah grapes to use in Boekenhoutskloof’s successful Chocolate Block red blend.

Since then Louw has guided every single one of the site’s 15 vintages to bottle, producing a single-vineyard Syrah that has now achieved cult status.

Happiest in the vineyards (his obsession with agricultural machinery producer John Deere is well documented), Louw made the decision to leave Boekenhoutskloof in order to pursue his dream of acquiring his own land.

With the backing of a financial partner, he has done just that by purchasing a farm called Uitvlugt on the Paardeberg foothills. The maiden wines are expected in 2028.

Louw’s upcoming exit has triggered something of a domino effect across the Boekenhoutskloof and Porseleinberg portfolios, effectively reshuffling the deck.

Eben Meiring, currently working alongside Gottfried Mocke at Boekenhoutskloof, has been named as Louw’s successor. ‘It’s time for him to step out of Gottfried’s shadow,’ Kent emphasised. ‘Eben understands the site, having worked extensively with the Porseleinberg fruit. In football terms, he’s part of our academy.’

Kent also pointed out that he has personally blended every vintage of Porseleinberg alongside Louw and will continue to do so with Meiring.

Boekenhoutskloof’s chief winemaker Mocke is said to be ‘taking on broader oversight and control of winemaking and related responsibilities across the portfolio’.

Supporting this transition is the appointment of Ruan van Schalkwyk, most recently at Kanonkop, who will take up the reins at the Franschhoek cellar.

Still to be finalised is the securing of a new viticulturist to manage Boekenhoutskloof’s other Swartland vineyards, which were previously under Louw’s care.

Kent says these changes have been in motion for some time: ‘People are eager to grow.’

He added: ‘I had a good chat with Callie recently over a bottle of Rayas. Callie is an undeniable star, a remarkable personality, and a great friend. I am confident he will succeed. He’s been an incredible asset to us. I wish him every success.’

Subscribe to our South African newsletter to hear from Callie Louw himself this August, as he shares his exciting plans with Decanter.

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Anniversaries seem to be arriving thick and fast at the renowned Hemel-en-Aarde producer, Hamilton Russell.

A couple of years ago, I wrote a piece for Decanter on the 2021 release – current owner Anthony Hamilton Russell’s 40th vintage since he joined his father Tim Hamilton Russell at the estate.

Now, in 2025, the estate is celebrating 50 years since its creation in 1975.

Scroll down for notes and scores of Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

Cool climate

Hamilton Russell estate is situated in the lower part of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, an area which today covers around 6,000 hectares (ha) with 388ha currently under vine.

Hemel-en-Aarde was established as a Wine of Origin (WO) in 2006 and is seen as the home of South Africa’s finest expression of cooler-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The Hamilton Russell family have long been innovators and influencers, both within the Cape wine region and across many countries.

Tim, a Bordeaux lover, first planted vines in 1975 in a virtually unknown area close to Hermanus. Its relatively cool maritime climate, influenced by proximity to the cold, south Atlantic Ocean, rapidly indicated that the future lay with the classic Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The first Pinot Noir vintage was 1981, and the first Chardonnay was vinified a year later in 1982.

A tasting of this first vintage in March 2022 revealed a delicate, fine Pinot with just 12% alcohol and ethereal notes of rose petal, red berry and delicate spice.

The purity of the wine showed how special this area is for production of Burgundian-style Pinot and Chardonnay.

Hamilton Russell Estate

Owners: Anthony and Olive Hamilton Russell

Grape source: Direct from owned, managed vineyards

Total vineyard area: Hamilton Russell Vineyards 52ha

Total estate area: Ashbourne 64ha, Southern Right 448ha

Number of wines: 9

Appellation/Wine of Origin: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

Less ego

However, Anthony is adamant that imitation of the Côte d’Or has never been the objective; instead the family wanted their wines to be ‘a reflection of the vintage and the place’.

Asked whether the style has changed in recent years, he says: ‘Yes, in the early 2000s the wines were more full-on with more wood – and more malolactic characters in the Chardonnay.’

He believes they are now, ‘producing a wine with less “ego” and less wood influence – one that is searching for the most beautiful way to express the 52ha at the estate.’

Underlying terroir

Anthony highlights the difference in geology between the Lower Valley, that of the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde and the Ridge.

Based lower down, Hamilton Russell Estate has ‘the toughest soils with a very high clay content’.

Ironically, the clay content in Hemel-en-Aarde ranges from 35-55%, which is broadly similar to… the Côte d’Or.

When asked to compare the style of Hamilton Russell, Anthony says the estate wines are ‘less fruit-forward, they are more masculine, more structured, yet are more restrained’.

He notes that: ‘It’s the clay that makes the difference – rather than the temperature. If the underlying geology was sandstone here, this would not be a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay area.’

Signature style

On tasting the wines, it becomes clear that there is an unmistakable ‘thumbprint’ which identifies Hamilton Russell Estate.

There are clearly vintage variations but, with time in bottle, the terroir shines through.

Some vintages initially show more dark fruit, others are more aromatic, and there can be significant variations in alcohol – the 2020 and 2024 Pinot Noir were both under 13% alcohol.

Yet, the wines remain clearly Hamilton Russell wines.

Anthony says that with the estate Chardonnay he is, ‘searching for more than just fruit-expression’.

A growing proposition

Another significant change lies with the expansion of vineyards and wine cellars in Hemel-en-Aarde since Tim first planted vines in 1975.

Anthony notes that when he arrived at the estate in 1991, ‘Hamilton Russell was the only producer, now there are 28 winemakers and 13 wine cellars’.

He also proudly points out that ‘four ex-winemakers of ours are still living and working in the valley’.

It feels as though Anthony is very much the ‘godfather’ of this special place, and there is an undeniable spirit of respect, co-operation and a collegiate desire for the region to do well, among the many producers.

Strong future

Asked to predict how the estate will change in the future, Anthony believes that evolving vineyard and vinification practices will continue to be a key factor.

‘Today we use lighter oak toasting, we farm organically, we are not picking earlier yet the wines are lower in alcohol – this is mostly down to changes in viticulture,’ he notes.

‘We have the same clonal mix today (Dijon clones 113, 115, 667 and 777) but there is a much higher percentage of non-virused vines. We use less pumpovers, yet punchdown more. This gives us the equivalent of whole bunch without the risk of added phenolics.’

In conclusion, Anthony predicts a strong future both for the estate and Hemel-en-Aarde.

There remains a continuous process of self-challenge within the team – ‘How do you improve if you can’t find fault?’

Like the man in charge, Hamilton Russell Estate wines are not attention-seekers but they undoubtedly offer some of the finest, most individual, expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay anywhere in the world.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

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Jason Millar, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 2 Outstanding and 13 Highly recommended

South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends: Panel tasting scores

43 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 2

Highly recommended 13

Recommended 23

Commended 5

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit the latest vintage release of their premium Cape red blends containing Pinotage

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends panel tasting

Idiosyncratric and historic

This was a small but illuminating tasting of a category that harks back to the turn of the century.

At that time, South Africa’s winemakers were searching for a uniquely Cape-accented answer to internationally popular Bordeaux and Rhône blends.

Naturally, they turned to Pinotage – a variety created in, and then almost exclusively sold to, the Cape – which provided a way to distinguish South Africa’s red blends from those of other regions.

Pinotage is a tricky grape that has struggled to find its identity as a varietal wine, but our tasting suggested that it does work well in a blend.

‘Many of the wines were improved by having Pinotage,’ Roger Jones observed. ‘Blending may be a good way forward for the variety.’

However, with proportions of Pinotage ranging from 97% to 10% in our tasting, Cape blends vary widely in composition.

The two Outstanding wines reflected this diversity. In ArtiSons’ JJ Hand Made Wines’ Eight Pillars, Pinotage plays a minor role alongside seven other varieties, acting as a welcome seasoning in a rich, layered wine, adding woodsmoke and meaty savour.

In contrast, the Orpheus & The Raven No42 features Pinotage as 51% of the blend, alongside its parent varieties Pinot Noir and Cinsault, in a style that emphasises perfume and delicate fruit.

Among the Highly recommended wines, Pinotage was almost always the dominant variety, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot as popular blending partners.

Most wines were aged in barrel, though Andy Howard highlighted the ‘surprisingly restrained oak’ in the best examples.

Regardless of the specific blend, the category showed a broadly consistent style – marked by generous dark fruit, savoury spice and sweet oak.

Yet the best examples impressed the judges with their finesse and assured winemaking. As Howard concluded: ‘There is a much more refined character to many of these wines than might be expected.’

What to eat with South Africa Cape red Pinotage blends, by Fiona Beckett 

It’s hard to avoid the clichés when it comes to Pinotage, even in a blend. 

The most obvious answer is a braai, as South Africa’s distinctive barbecue cooking is known, and of course that’s spot on, particularly where the more full-bodied styles are concerned. They can absolutely handle the Cape Malay spicing. 

Where else could you take them? Well, India for a start. In fact ArtiSons, the producer of one of our Outstanding wines, specifically recommends north Indian curries, and I’d be tempted to add a raan (spiced roast leg of lamb). 

Other styles of barbecue are another obvious go-to – anything slow braised and cooked in a pit would work. Or, more conventionally, in a casserole – fashionable ox cheek for instance. 

You could also enjoy these wines with meaty pizzas and flatbreads, such as Turkish lamb-stuffed lahmacun. 

More simply, they’ll be spot on with a steak or a Sunday roast, and, it goes without saying, with cheese, including challenging washed rind cheeses and punchy blues. Open a bottle with your next cheeseboard.

South Africa Cape red blends panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs

his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

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Jason Millar, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 128 wines, with 1 Exceptional, 10 Outstanding and 60 Highly recommended

South African Chardonnay: Panel tasting scores

128 wines tasted

Exceptional 1

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 60

Recommended 47

Commended 10

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release South African Chardonnay wines, containing a minimum of 85% Chardonnay, at any price level

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the South African Chardonnay panel tasting

As the scores and notes clearly demonstrate, this was a superb tasting of South Africa’s finest Chardonnays.

It showed beyond doubt that contemporary South Africa is home to some of the southern hemisphere’s most confident and assured examples of this variety – and perhaps the world’s.

Although Chenin Blanc is the Cape’s signature white variety, Chardonnay, planted in the right place and vinified sensitively, can be sensational.

Cool-climate regions – Elgin, Greyton, Hemel-en-Aarde and the brisker parts of Stellenbosch – triumphed decisively. Andy Howard MW found the wines ‘generally very good quality, stylish and consistent’.

Roger Jones felt that they stood toe-to-toe with Hawke’s Bay, Margaret River and all but the finest Burgundy. The best offered an irresistible combination of concentration, clarity and freshness.

Less is more

It was notable that so many of the tasting’s finest wines were made with minimal-intervention viticulture, with many following the principles of regenerative and sustainable farming, utilising unhurried wild yeast ferments and deploying new oak with tasteful restraint.

As a fan of richer Chardonnay, I found it encouraging to see many producers favouring an oak-inflected style that offers texture, flavour, depth and ageability. In terms of pricing, there was little of interest under £15; Cape Chenin Blanc offers much better value and character at that level.

Most of our top wines were around or above £50, putting them into justifiable competition with white Burgundy. Yet for the best relative value, the panel agreed that the £20-£30 range was particularly impressive.

This was where many of our strongest Highly Recommendeds (‘silver medal’ equivalent, 90-94 points) were awarded.

With more than half the wines in the tasting scoring 90pts or more, there’s no doubt South Africa is making world-class Chardonnay.

Lovers of the grape ought to be buying, cellaring and enjoying them for years to come.

See all recommendations from the tasting

What to eat with South African Chardonnay, by Fiona Beckett

Sometimes I wonder if people who dismiss Chardonnay have ever actually drunk it with a meal. It goes with so many things, from roast chicken to cheddar cheese, that it’s hard not to regard it as the ultimate food wine.

Given the quality, price and maturity of the South African wines in this tasting, though, it’s a great excuse to up your game in the kitchen and cook something that will show it off in all its glory.

Grilled lobster would be top of my list, with langoustines and scallops not far behind. A crab tart would be wonderful; a whole baked salmon with hollandaise sublime. In fact, any kind of eggy or creamy sauce would set it off to perfection, especially if imbued with a bit of Chardonnay-friendly tarragon.

Veg-wise, think of mushrooms, roasted cauliflower and fennel – any or all of them enhanced by pastry, butter or parmesan. And grilled corn is also a winner. You can absolutely drink high-class South African Chardonnay with a braii, especially a seafood-focused braii.

South African Chardonnay panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator with a focus on Italy and South Africa. He has a background in buying, importing and sales, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. Formerly a long-serving retail wine buyer, he now runs his own consultancy, Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a consultant and wine writer with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He’s also a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

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Historic South African wine estate Klein Constantia is marking its 340th anniversary with a limited, long-aged bottling of its emblematic Vin de Constance sweet wine from the 2010 vintage.

Sourced from a harvest not previously earmarked for release, the 2010 edition was matured in cask for nearly 15 years. Some 4,500 bottles will be released globally, with a UK RRP of £140 per 50cl bottle.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for three vintages of Klein Constantia’s Vin de Constance

It’s the latest chapter in the story of one of the world’s most historic wine estates, founded in 1685 by the first Governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel. He sent soil samples from the area to Europe for analysis before fixing on the Constantia Valley, south of Table Mountain, as the ideal spot to plant vines.

Since then, Constantia’s history has been chequered: lauded by Jane Austen, Charles Baudelaire and Charles Dickens, loved by Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette and Napoleon Bonaparte, but declining into bankruptcy in the 1870s, before resurrection with the release of the first Vin de Constance in over a century in 1990.

Klein Constantia was acquired by Czech-American investor Zdenĕk Bakala and UK businessman Charles Harman in 2011, with the relatively inexperienced Matt Day installed as head winemaker. Day was given the 2012 vintage to prove his mettle or ‘find the door’, and has been responsible for the estate’s wines ever since.

‘The goal of Vin de Constance is to create a sweet wine that’s not sweet,’ said Day. ‘Sugar forms the flavour, but not sucrosity, so it goes with any part of the meal. It shouldn’t be enjoyed on “occasions”, but a lot more often than that. And it should not be put in a cellar and forgotten about.’

Muscat de Frontignan is crucial to Vin de Constance, because of its resistance to botrytis – this is not a noble rot-focused sweet wine, but one where the fermentation stops naturally, ideally at about 165g/litre residual sugar and 14-14.5% abv, with a pH of 3.65-3.7.

Vin de Constance 2010 was passed over in 2013/14 because it ‘just didn’t tick all the boxes’, said Day – coming from a year when production was cut by about 90% as the vines went into ‘chaos mode’ following a sudden switch to sustainable production. The wine was rediscovered in the Klein Constantia cellars last year and bottled in November.

‘We were forced into a way of making Vin de Constance that wasn’t normal,’ Day said. ‘We fermented on skins [for two weeks] for the first time and did lots of punchdowns, extracting lots of flavour and tannin. It’s very bold, very big… a completely different but exquisite vintage.’

Three vintages of Klein Constantia’s Vin de Constance

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There are many tall tales around the origins of Syrah – also known as Shiraz.

One claimed that it was Rome’s legions that brought the grape to southern France. The soldiers had been in Sicily before and brought with them vines from the city of Syracuse.

But then Pliny the Elder claimed that it was a variety called Vitis syriaca that came from Syria.

Later still a legend emerged that its origins lay further to the east, around the ancient Persian city of Shiraz.

But the truth is that Syrah is a Rhône grape through and through. In 1998, DNA testing showed its parents were Mondeuse Blanche and a (now little-used) black variety called Dureza.

It’s a telling irony that while Syrah’s origin stories talk of it coming from overseas when it’s actually a Rhône Valley native, its modern story has been all about finding new homes around the world.

Let’s take a look at where Syrah has ended up, as well as delicious examples tasted recently by both the Decanter team and our expert contributors.

Scroll down for 16 must-try Syrah/Shiraz

Rhône Valley and southern France

Syrah’s home is along the banks of the long, drifting Rhône that wends its way from the Alps to the Mediterranean.

The northern half of the valley in particular is pure Syrah territory (occasionally mixed with a smidgen of Viognier).

It’s here, in the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie, Cornas and Hermitage that Syrah achieves what many see as its smoky, spicy, peppery majesty.

In the southern half of the valley Syrah tends to play a supporting role to Grenache and other varieties, and this also true of the numerous wines produced across the appellations of the Languedoc.

If you want the Syrah experience without a price tag as steep as some of the best vineyard sites, however, then look to St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage for some increasingly delicious examples.

Australia

After the Rhône, say Syrah to a wine fan and they’ll probably mention Australia.

While on his travels finding cuttings to send back to Australia, James Busby remarked on this tale in his notes. Syrah was first known in Australia as ‘Hermitage’ or the older toponym ‘Scyras’.

But after EU protections were put in place a change of name was needed and ‘Scyras’ got a new ‘Strine’ inflection which, coupled with the old Shiraz legend, might be how the name has stuck the way it has Down Under.

Either way, the reference for Australian Shiraz is Barossa Valley, which the likes of Henschke, Torbreck and Yalumba call home.

Aussie Shiraz has a reputation for being bigger in every sense than its French cousins and while that holds true to a point, as with most varieties the current trend is for freshness and greater nuance.

And Shiraz is grown right across the country’s wine regions, with McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills among those with both the cool sites and old vines that make for a truly winning combination.

It’s also frequently blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as appearing in the classic southern European-inspired ‘GSM’ blends (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre).

Click here to see notes and scores for nearly 5,000 Syrah tasted by Decanter

Syrah around the world

There are few places where Syrah dominates in quite the way it does in the Rhône and Australia but its presence is felt globally – especially anywhere with a warm, Mediterranean-style climate.

Looking elsewhere in Europe, one surprising source of Syrah is Switzerland. This landlocked country is where the source of the Rhône rises and there’s a pocket of the Valais where it thrives in the sheltered mountain valleys.

It crops up in southern Portugal and Italy though usually as a blending partner. Across the Mediterranean in Israel and Lebanon there’s some strong Syrah and Syrah-led blends emerging with plenty of potential.

A land where Syrah is rising fast is South Africa. Since the end of Apartheid, its been one of the country’s fastest-growing red varieties.

It’s the backbone of the incredibly popular The Chocolate Block label and the pure-Syrah Porseleinberg, as well as the Mullineux-made trio of Schist, Granite and Iron which shows off some serious terroir flex.

Not to be out-done by their neighbours, New Zealand has a good line in tightly-grained, very elegant Syrah. Look out for wines from the north of the islands, especially Hawke’s Bay.

In the US, Syrah has never had the clout of Cabernet or Pinot but it has a strong, almost cultish following among its fans.

In California, it crops up frequently in Sine Qua Non’s eclectic range of wines and it has pockets of vines throughout the state.

It’s true US foothold though is Washington State, especially the Walla Walla AVA. Up in Canada, the southern half of the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia also allows for Syrah to thrive.

And finally, in the southern half of the Americas it is Chile that flies Syrah’s banner highest in both its coastal and mountain sites.

16 must-try Syrah

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The proverb says that mighty oaks grow from tiny acorns.

For South Africa’s Boekenhoutskloof, it’s a different type of tree… The boekenhout (pronounced book-n-howed) is an indigenous Cape beech.

Literally translated as ‘ravine of the boekenhout’, Boekenhoutskloof was named for these beeches, growing in the furthest southern corner of scenic Franschhoek Valley. The pretty Cape Dutch farmstead, founded in 1776, butts up against the Hottentots Holland Mountains.

The stunning waterfall of clouds pouring over the mountaintop, snapped in a photo on my first visit to the winery in 2006, is an enduring memory.

See below for notes and scores of eight wines from Boekenhoutskloof

The property was bought and restored in 1993. At the time Marc Kent, now managing partner and technical director, oversaw the planting of new vineyards.

‘We grubbed up all the vineyards that I planted in the 1990s. I did such a shit job that we replanted,’ he says with typical frankness.

The pioneer spirit

What he claims to lack in viticultural nous, Kent more than compensates for with winemaking vision. An undeniable innovator, he was a pioneer of sorting tables in the Cape, bought the first Bucher JLB automated basket press into South Africa in 2000 and installed the country’s first OXOline barrel system (see below) in the same year.

Kent’s winemaking philosophy is imprinted across the range of Boekenhoutskloof wines, which has expanded since the release of its first Cabernet Sauvignon vintage in 1996, to include Cabernet Franc, Grenache and most importantly Syrah.

The release of Boekenhoutskloof’s now-legendary 1997 Syrah established the variety as a serious contender in South Africa and marked the winery as a Syrah specialist.

Boekenhoutskloof also made its first Semillon in 1997. ‘Way before it was fashionable,’ says Kent. ‘No-one at that time was talking about old vines.’

Hot chocolate

The premium Boekenhoutskloof range – whose labels feature seven wooden chairs; a nod to the use of Cape beech for making fine furniture – is a sell-out on release each vintage.

However one wine has become pivotal to the winery’s success: The Chocolate Block. This Syrah-based blend, which changes every year, has established a cult following. Arguably it’s the most recognisable red blend to emerge from the modern era of South African winemaking.

Kent gives credit for naming the wine to Tony Allen, then senior buyer at Oddbins.

‘In 2000 I was at Lord’s Cricket Ground with Tony for a South Africa event and Tony said, “Marc, I’d like you to make an own-label Shiraz for Oddbins, and call it The Chocolate Block”. And I said to him: “Tony, forget about it. I’m not doing any own-label business. It’s not our gig.”

This was the era of ‘beautiful, big, bold South Australian Shiraz’ as the name implied. The following year Kent took a road trip through Roussillon and into the Costa Brava, which proved inspirational.

‘The traditional Syrah and Garnacha guys – particularly in the southern part of Roussillon – some of them were planting Cabernet to give the wine a bit more structure. You know, I’m always stealing with my eyes, listening, tasting…’

First blend

Back at Boekenhoutskloof the following year, 2002, was ‘a decidedly poor vintage’, which prompted Kent to experiment. ‘I put this concept wine together based on Syrah with Grenache and some Cabernet, but it also included Cinsault and a splash of Viognier to give the wine perfume.’ In 2003 it was time to bottle the wine, but it didn’t have a name.

‘So I went to see Tony and I said, “I’ve got this idea. Remember that name Chocolate Block? He said, “Of course, I do. I created it.” I said, “Well, do you mind if I use it?” And I told him what I’d done. He said, “Deal – as long as you give Oddbins exclusivity on the first vintage.” Which is what we did.’

That initial 2002 vintage of The Chocolate Block used Syrah, Viognier and Cinsault sourced from fruit grown in Wellington; while the Cabernet came from Malmesbury and the Grenache from an old block in Citrusdal.

Varieties were fermented separately, with malolactic fermentation in used French casks, and left on lees for 15 months before the final blend was created.

Evolution of style

Unsurprisingly given Kent’s innovative character and restless pursuit of quality, winemaking for The Chocolate Block has been constantly fine-tuned over the years. Developments in the winery and cellar have reflected changes in how the fruit is sourced and grown.

The quest for quality Syrah grapes led to Porseleinberg near Riebeek-Kasteel in Swartland, which was purchased in 2009. The estate’s 90ha of hot, dry-farmed, low-yielding vineyards stretch across a stony range of hills with granite soils.

Callie Louw grows grapes for the Boekenhoutskloof Syrah, plus Syrah and Grenache for The Chocolate Block, alongside producing his own in-demand Porseleinberg Syrah, with labels he prints himself on an antique letterpress.

Goldmine, a second Swartland estate, was acquired in 2014. Seeing the quality of the Swartland grapes, in 2015 Kent decided to shift from making The Chocolate Block as appellation Western Cape to Wine of Origin Swartland.

‘The significance is that we can directly manage the majority of the fruit being vinified for The Chocolate Block and farm the vineyards using our sustainable approach to viticulture,’ he explains.

Chocolate Block is now blended from 100% Swartland fruit. ‘Notably, we can see that the wines have changed stylistically. With our acquisition of Partnership Vineyard in 2022, we have further expanded our footprint in the Swartland and our goal of eventually filling our fermenters with our own, sustainably farmed vineyards,’ he adds.

In the winery

A second crucial change in 2015 was the appointment of Gottfried Mocke as chief winemaker.

With experience in the Rheingau and Oregon, Mocke had previously been winemaker at Chamonix Wine Farm in Franschhoek before joining the Boekenhoutskloof team.

He shares Kent’s questing, experimental approach. ‘We are very open to new and different things. We don’t mind taking a bit of risk, we enjoy that,’ he says, as we tour the Boekenhoutskloof winery, discussing changes in winemaking over the past decade.

Concrete eggs were introduced in the early 2000s, enabling plot-by-plot fermentation. ‘If we do Boekenhoutskloof Syrah blending, we do an average of 50 different parcels,’ says Mocke. ‘And Chocolate Block has a lot of parcels.’

Although there is no set recipe for creating Chocolate Block, Mocke has established best practice for fermenting the many parcels of fruit that might make up the blend.

‘The first pickings I do always go to concrete. When it comes to the riper fruit, we will then go into French barriques,’ explains Mocke.

South African identity

‘I think for us in the last 10 years, we’ve been trying to understand our vineyards and sites better – and to understand the strong correlation between a vineyard and the decision in terms of what your winemaking must be,’ continues Mocke.

Converting to organic farming was part of this change. ‘For us, organic farming was interesting because it just fitted so well into our winemaking philosophy. If we’re embracing spontaneous ferments, and we don’t use the ammonium phosphates and enzymes, it’s all part of the story,’ he explains.

It’s also about capturing a South African identity. ‘We all base our passion for wine on the traditional wine regions of the world. I love Burgundy and Marc has always been obsessed with the Northern Rhône,’ explains Mocke.

‘But I think now we also understand that we must make wines and styles that really express what makes South Africa unique and different.’

His Syrahs have a distinctive spicy profile. ‘That pepperiness, it’s like you smell a bit of the veldt, the fynbos and the characters around us. In a good vintage of Chocolate Block, I always taste rooibos tea in the wine. And I know if I taste that, we’ve got a great vintage coming!’

In the cellar

In 2009, the same year as the acquisition of Porseleinberg, Boekenhoutskloof bought the Helderberg Winery, a 9m-litre facility, which became home to the production of Chocolate Block.

I visit two weeks before much of the site is due to be demolished and rebuilt ‘to give a really modern facility where all elements of our business will come together. All the time, we’re just upgrade, upgrade’ says Kent.

He’s keen to point out that this is not an expansion of size. ‘Our volume is actually declining,’ he says. ‘But our business is better for it because we’re focusing on premium wines.’

Inside you get an idea of the scale of Chocolate Block production, with row upon row of pristine barrels stored in an OXOline system.

Barrels are placed on a set of rollers, with the space above each bung free, allowing for work to be done on each barrel independently, in place.

This means it’s possible to open, rinse, fill, rack, clean, sample, rotate, and remove any barrel in the stack without touching any other barrels.

‘Before, we stacked the barrels on cradles and then on top of each other. We had 4,000 barrels, but to get to the one barrel in the corner, it took days,’ remembers Kent.

‘Now this is all done in place. So it’s a hell of an efficient system. It’s done an incredible amount for wine quality, because every barrel is accessible at any time. What we’ve seen is incredible improvement.’

Barrel business

The barrels themselves are tailored to Chocolate Block. Kent works with French cooper Tonnellerie Sylvain, based just outside St-Emilion. ‘I asked Jean-Luc Sylvain if he could work on a barrel for the Chocolate Block,’ says Kent.

‘His barrels all have a designation – the premium barrels are called Jean Luc Reserve. So I said: “I want to have my own barrel and I’m going to call it Spectacular.”’

Why French oak? ‘We just know what works for us,’ explains Kent. ‘We work primarily with barrels from the East of France – Alliers and Vosges – more spice and aromatic than the centre of France, with a lot more structure and grip,’ he adds.

‘Oak is a very important part of all of our wines. People like to “terroir” this, but for me, it’s also what we do in the cellar that makes a very, very big contribution,’ continues Kent. When the cellar reaches a capacity of 6,000 barrels, he will replace 600 barrels a year. ‘We’re the biggest purchaser of new wood in South Africa,’ he adds.

This level of attention to detail is one of many factors that have allowed Kent to scale up volume production of The Chocolate Block, while fastidiously maintaining the quality of the wine.

Just 15 barrels of the inaugural Chocolate Block were produced in 2002. Today it makes up over 50% of the Boekenhoutskloof business, with 4,000 barrels made of the latest 2023 vintage.

‘It’s a nice position to be in – as long as we protect that,’ notes Kent.

Those acorns have indeed proved to be mighty.

Boekenhoutskloof wines to try

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Producers in South Africa’s Constantia region joined forces to keep their vineyards safe from devastating wildfires that tore across Table Mountain National Park this past weekend. The silver lining, they all agree, is that the 2025 harvest is safely in barrel and tank.

While 3,000ha of vegetation have been scorched, vineyards are largely unscathed thanks to efforts from both the local farming community as well as the Western Cape’s relief services.

The wildfires first ignited in the national park’s Tokai and Silvermine sections on the evening of Friday 25 April, with the blaze reaching its zenith on Sunday (27 April). All initial reports indicate that the fires were set intentionally, and police currently have a suspect in custody.

The vineyards most at risk were those of Buitenverwachting, Steenberg, Constantia Uitsig and Klein Constantia. In contrast, Groot Constantia, Beau Constantia and Constantia Glen are located further afield from the Constantiaberg slopes and, as of now, have not been affected by the fire. Cape Point Vineyards on the Noordhoek side of the mountain were equally able to keep the flames at bay, sparing the vines.

Vlok Hanekom, viticulturist at Steenberg, said the wide firebreak is what saved the site — a precaution he says most valley farmers take. ‘It gave us space to operate and spray the flames without getting trapped.’

Detailing the rescue efforts Hanekom said: ‘Etienne Southey from Constantia Glen arrived with a Land Cruiser fitted with a 700-litre water tank, pump and hose. Klein Constantia sent a similar rig. Within minutes, helicopters were scooping from our dam, barely 100 metres from the fire line.

‘When night fell, the helicopters had to pull back, and we continued on foot and by tractor. Our crew stayed on the fence line, spraying and beating the flames as they came down. We ran along the contours, snuffing out sparks and burning logs as best we could. Our only aim was to keep it from breaching the fence and hope it moved into an area more accessible to firetrucks. By early morning, the main threat passed. Our vineyards were safe.’

Klein Constantia’s farm manager, Craig Harris, was away when the fire broke out. He was called back urgently as a strong northwesterly wind picked up on Sunday, dramatically escalating conditions.

Firefighting continued late into Sunday night until the wind finally eased. Harris reported that conditions initially held steady on Monday as helicopters resumed water drops over the Tokai sector above Buitenverwachting. By mid-morning however, an unpredicted and unexpectedly strong northwesterly wind picked up again, reigniting the fire’s advance. The blaze pushed back slowly into the wind, edging dangerously close to the upper vineyards of Buitenverwachting.

By mid-afternoon, the coordinated efforts managed to steer the flames past the vineyard blocks with only around a quarter of a hectare suffering damage. The fire then turned toward Klein Constantia, but calmer conditions in the evening slowed its progress. Overnight, the fireline weakened further, with only isolated hotspots visible by Tuesday morning.

Helicopter support resumed briefly on Tuesday but was grounded due to poor visibility. As of now, the fire appears under control, provided wind conditions remain stable.

‘The teamwork between farms in moments like this is extraordinary,’ said Harris. ‘We all depend on each other, but when everything around you is burning and people keep showing up, no matter how exhausted they are, that’s something else. It’s a humbling contrast: destruction met with pure selflessness.’

South Africa’s most historic region, Constantia has been wine-producing since 1685.

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An embarrassment of riches is an apt way to describe South Africa’s winemaking talent. The last couple of decades have seen the rise and rise of the country’s wine – in both quality and international visibility.

South Africans have a way of capturing the imagination. They seem to understand that in order to sell their wines, they have to hook you in first.

The biggest fishing expedition of recent history was the now-famous inaugural New Wave South Africa tasting in 2015, held in the basement of a record shop in London’s Soho.

The South Africans won hearts and palates that day and have continued to do so ever since. A decade later, the new wave isn’t so new anymore.

So, what does the next generation of talent look like?

Scroll down to see notes and scores for six fabulous wines from South Africa’s trailblazing winemakers

Better than ever is the answer. In fact, South African wine is in its most exciting era yet. For the purposes of this feature, I’ve chosen six producers who embody South Africa’s spirit of genius.

There are, of course, many more: think of talents such as Banele Vakele of Tembela Wines, Jolandie Fouche of Wolf & Woman, Nongcebo Langa at Delheim, Natasha Jacka of Alinea, Nathan Valentine at Villiera, Charla Haasbroek at Sijnn, Wade Sander of Brunia, Pieter Coetzee at Quoin Rock, Sakkie Mouton and more…

Seek them out, you won’t be sorry.

Mvuselelo ‘Vusi’ Dalicuba

Vergenoegd Löw

Vines have long played a pivotal role in Mvuselelo ‘Vusi’ Dalicuba’s life. ‘My father worked for Distell in Stellenbosch and would often bring wine home,’ he says. ‘That, and the vineyards next to Kayamandi, where I grew up, inspired me to pursue this career.’

With the Atlantic less than 5km away, Dalicuba says they call Vergenoegd Löw ‘Stellenbosch by the sea’.

Established in 1696, Vergenoegd is a national monument with a long legacy of owners. In 2015, it was acquired and restored by German entrepreneur Peter Löw. He just needed a star winemaker to complete the picture. And Dalicuba was the one.

After achieving a BTech in agriculture, he was awarded a scholarship to Elsenburg Agricultural Training Institute, where he became assistant winemaker to head lecturer and chief winemaker Lorraine Geldenhuys.

‘Lorraine set the foundation for my winemaking,’ he says. Gaining experience, Dalicuba worked harvests for both Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons and Kanonkop. At the latter, Abrie Beeslaar set him up to meet with Corius Visser, MD of Vergenoegd.

‘One day Corius showed me around the cellar, and then handed me the reins for the day. I had to run the show! I guess I didn’t do too badly, as I got the job.

Since becoming winemaker in 2021, Dalicuba has continued to impress. The 31-year-old is making increasingly fine Cabernet Sauvignon, aided, he says, by the distinctive terroir.

‘The winds off the ocean create a cooler environment than in the Stellenbosch area in general,’ he explains. ‘Also, unusually for the region, our soils are rich in lime, thanks to our low-lying, ancient-seabed location.

Vines grown in these calcareous soils make for graceful, harmonious wines. ‘I’m still learning – and learning from the best,’ he continues. ‘We have a saying in isiXhosa: The elders have set a path for us – we just have to follow in their steps.’

Nuschka de Vos

Vulpes Wines

Nuschka de Vos has played on her Dutch surname for her label Vulpes Wines, launched in 2022. De Vos means ‘the fox’ and Vulpes is the scientific name of the genus to which all foxes belong.

She’s making just three wines: two Chenin Blancs from divergent terroirs – Swartland and Citrusdal Mountain – plus a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Polkadraai Hills.

‘I’m lucky to count Rosa Kruger as both a mentor and a friend. I never stop learning from, or being inspired by her,’ says the 36-year-old.

Inspiring indeed, Kruger is not only one of South Africa’s leading viticulturists, but was also the 2022 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient. ‘Fresh out of high school, I was working harvests with Rosa.’

After graduating with a BSc in viticulture and oenology from Stellenbosch University, de Vos worked seasons across the globe, from Bordeaux and the Mosel all the way to New Zealand.

Once she had returned home, she became the winemaker at biodynamic concern Reyneke in Stellenbosch.

This tenure lasted six years before she went out on her own. ‘I was involved in all facets of production, from harvesting to bottling, marketing and sales,’ she says.

‘I developed a sincere commitment to the principles of organic and sustainable farming, and realised the inextricable link between terroir and wine expression.’

This path isn’t surprising, considering she grew up on an organic farm in the Western Cape.

‘Good food, good wine and good company were both appreciated and regularly indulged in,’ which had the effect, she says, of piquing her curiosity about winemaking, with its combination of ‘physical, scientific and creative aspects’.

She describes her winemaking style as ‘vineyard- and site-focused. The fruit needs to express itself. I try not to force the wine to be something it’s not.’

Daniel Colombo

Colombo Wines

Self-taught winemaker Daniel Colombo admits that he has always followed the beat of his own drum.

His eponymous label, which he launched in 2021, celebrates South African heritage varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Colombard and Muscat d’Alexandrie.

He describes his wines as being texture-driven, employing varying amounts of skin-contact and minimal-intervention winemaking techniques.

‘While these cultivars are significant in a historical context, the majority aren’t exactly popular on the shelves,’ he says. ‘I’ve taken it as my responsibility to reveal the beauty of these old workhorses.’

As for how he first got into wine, Colombo says: ‘I’ve had a love affair with wine since as early as I was allowed to drink it.’ This makes sense, considering the fact that his father used to own the Paarl property that is now Brookdale (see recommendations, below); he has fond memories of helping with the harvest.

After completing a BA at Stellenbosch University, Colombo headed to Europe for five years. During his travels through the famous capitals, he became intrigued by the natural wine bar culture.

When he got back to Cape Town, this burgeoning interest saw him working at hidey-hole Leo’s, a bagel shop that becomes a natural wine bar at night. Making friends with winemakers while filling their glasses, an opportunity eventually arose to assist at Kaapzicht in Stellenbosch.

‘After a few days of long hours, heavy lifting, getting sticky, tasting… I found myself the happiest I’ve ever been,’ he says. ‘Something about the whole process resonated with me, and I just never stopped.’

A stint at producer Matassa in Roussillon, southwest France, further augmented his lean towards natural winemaking. Since then, the 32-year-old has stuck to his guns – and has earned a legion of fans for his authentic, somewhat mind-bending wines.

These days, he shares cellar space with Catherine Marshall and Miles Mossop in Stellenbosch, while living with his young family in Fish Hoek on the Cape Peninsula. ‘I’m unapologetically determined to make beautiful wine.’

Alexandra McFarlane

McFarlane Wines

‘The varieties I choose to work with have all played a role in shaping the South African wine industry,’ says Alexandra McFarlane. McFarlane Wines, first vintage 2019, harvests small batches from multiple growing areas throughout the Western Cape.

‘I strive to make wines that are clean, pure and expressive of their terroir,’ she says. ‘Pinotage, in particular, excites me – it’s tricky to handle but incredibly rewarding. It’s so expressive of its site, and unique.’

Born in Johannesburg, for McFarlane the wine flame was lit early on with childhood road trips to the Cape, where her parents would load up the car with cases of wine. ‘Wine was always a part of our family meals, often sparking debates.’

After gaining a BSc in viticulture and oenology from Stellenbosch University, her career got an enviable kickstart with a scholarship from Dombeya Wines, which saw her jetting off to Margaret River and the Barossa in Australia, and Napa Valley in the US.

‘The experience opened my eyes to the vast world of wine and fuelled my desire to explore,’ she says.

‘Each experience shaped my approach – precision from Napa, practicality from Australia, and large-scale excellence from Spier, where I worked when I returned to South Africa.’

After that, she swapped the cellar for the vineyard and took up the position of viticulturist at De Toren, later combining all of this experience when she joined Druk My Niet in Paarl as both winemaker and viticulturist in 2016.

McFarlane describes her winemaking style as ‘light to the touch, but with plenty of fruit concentration – doing as little as possible, but without being dogmatic’.

When not making wine, the 35-year-old can be found at home in the Overberg with her husband, two Jack Russells and a cat.

‘I’m aiming to leave a legacy of championing South African wine and shifting perceptions of Pinotage worldwide.’

Kiara Scott

Hazendal Wine Estate

‘I hope to inspire the next generation to see themselves in this industry,’ says Kiara Scott. ‘I want to be part of shaping a more inclusive future for South African wine.’

And Scott is well on her way. At just 32 years of age, she has had a career that can rightly be considered stratospheric. In 2024, she made history as the first female winemaker of colour to win South Africa’s prestigious Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award.

A life in wine wasn’t the obvious choice for Scott. She grew up in a township in Mitchells Plain in the Western Cape, an impoverished area with socio-economic ills such as gangs, drugs and alcohol abuse.

It was her grandmother who showed her that a different path was possible.

‘She enjoyed drinking wine,’ Scott says. ‘She taught me you can have respect for it.’ With her grandmother’s blessing, Scott decided to pursue a career in winemaking.

‘I was drawn to the balance of science, creativity and storytelling, as well as the ability to create something that reflects a sense of place and culture,’ she says.

In her final year at Elsenburg Agricultural Training Institute, she was offered a bursary from the Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme, working harvests in the Rhône and Sancerre, as well as the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, California.

When she completed the program, Duncan Savage offered her a job at his urban winery in Salt River in Cape Town. Savage was then consulting at Brookdale and was instrumental in securing her the position as winemaker of the Paarl estate.

In December 2024, Scott became head winemaker at Hazendal in Stellenbosch. Coming full circle, she says: ‘Ronel Wiid, who represented Hazendal and won Diners Club Winemaker of the Year in 1999, is a great example of breaking barriers.

‘She was the first woman to take this title. I’m the second to win in the competition’s 44-year tenure. The future is bright.’

Sam Lambson

Minimalist Wines

‘Oh, Syrah! What’s not to love? Chenin may be South Africa’s best vessel for exploring terroir when it comes to whites, but Syrah is undoubtedly our strongest red and I just find it enthralling,’ enthuses Sam Lambson, who makes only Syrah for his Minimalist Wines label, albeit with three bottlings, comprising parcels from Elim and Elgin, as well as a blend from a variety of sites in the Western Cape.

Growing up in Johannesburg, Lambson was inspired to become a winemaker by a bottle of Jamet, Côte-Rôtie 1998. Heading to the Cape, he studied viticulture and oenology at Stellenbosch University while working at a boutique wine store.

In his final year, he worked harvests with Lukas van Loggerenberg, Chris Alheit and Carl van der Merwe.

‘Some of the best things in life emerge from tough times and dark places,’ he says, referring to an episode of depression that saw him take refuge in the cellar.

‘I called my inaugural wine Stars in the Dark in honour of that [period].’ He bottled his first vintage, the 2018, on his 21st birthday; it immediately garnered critical acclaim.

‘We’re all about spontaneous fermentation and 100% whole bunch, only intervening when necessary and letting maturation take place in neutral vessels to allow the site to be the star,’ Lambson continues.

‘While all our wines are kept separate during maturation, everything we bottle is a blend of different picks – even when the wine is from the same vineyard.

‘Fusing the best elements from every vineyard is the fun part and where the magic happens.’

Always the trailblazer, Lambson, now 27, has just launched an urban winery in the heart of Cape Town.

He has plans to develop the surrounding area into a ‘wine district’ in order to create a platform for independent producers to market and sell their wines.

Malu Lambert’s pick of South Africa’s best new talent

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‘Anything that moves goes for the Grenache,’ laughs Anthony de Jager of Fairview.

He’s referring to Klein Amoskuil, an organic bush vine block in the Swartland. ‘There’s no water in the area, and Grenache produces big berries, basically sacks of hydration for the birds and the bokke.’

The latter is the Afrikaans term for the duiker antelope. ‘They often chew the border vines right down to nubs; but the buck must have its share,’ says De Jager. In tribute he named the resulting wine Bok Amok.

Scroll down for Malu’s pick of South African Grenache

Now chief winemaker, De Jager has been at Fairview since 1996. The Paarl estate, owned by Charles Back, can largely be credited for reigniting interest in Grenache, with its tongue-in-cheek ‘Goats Do Roam’, a Southern Rhône-inspired blend.

When the 1998 maiden vintage was released, there wasn’t anything like it. The blends of the time were generally Cabernet Sauvignon-based blockbusters.

It was Paarl’s hot conditions that got the team thinking ‘Rhône’ – so they headed into the then unfashionable Swartland to prospect fruit for the early renditions.

The journey took them all the way into the altitudinous Piekenierskloof (ascents go up to 700m above sea level), where they found a bush vine block of Grenache planted in 1973. This made its way into the original Goats Do Roam.

The fruit now goes into Fairview’s Bloemcool Berg-en-Dal Oupa se Wingerd. Goats Do Roam is still going strong however, now a blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault.

Grenache takes centre stage

Back in the late 1990s, Grenache was mostly used for bulk, lower-quality dry reds destined for the big wholesalers. That was until Johan Delport produced the first single-varietal Grenache bottling in 2001 for Citrusdal Cellars, previously Goue Vallei; and now called Piekenierskloof Wines.

Bizarrely, Goue Vallei was allowed to produce a wine called ‘Chianti’, a blend of Grenache and Cinsault. ‘I still remember the yellow label,’ recalls Delport. ‘Apparently, the cellar had official permission from the Italian Embassy to use the name.’

He says the blend became so popular they used to plant vineyards with alternating rows of the two grapes.

The shift to quality production came when the winery began selling juice to producers such as Fairview, as well as to Boekenhoutskloof for Chocolate Block. ‘Then everyone wanted in.’

Former rugby player for South Africa’s national team the Springboks, and the force behind Stellenbosch’s Vriesenhof, Jan Boland Coetzee believes Grenache was planted in the region as far back as the 1700s, citing a family legend that Napoleon favoured sweet wines made from it.

The story has been passed down through generations of Coetzees, whose roots in the Cape date back to 1679, with early settlements in both Stellenbosch and Piekenierskloof, where they are said to have introduced the cultivar.

Site-driven wines

‘It shows terroir more than any other grape,’ says Rudiger Gretschel. Production director for Vinimark and cellarmaster at Reyneke, Gretschel also has his own holding in the region, Swartberg Wingerde. ‘The secret is the altitude, which tempers the harsh, dryland conditions,’ he explains.

‘The older vineyards are mostly planted on alluvial, sandy soils – they can be quite light, in colour as well as in expression. Whereas the newer vineyards are on more structured, rocky soils and are correspondingly producing wines with more depth.’

Currently the Piekenierskloof is planted to 92.21ha of the grape. According to South Africa’s regulatory body SAWIS (South Africa Wine Industry Information and Systems) the total hectarage of the national vineyard lies at 579.01ha.

Hendrik Le Roux, a viticulturist at SAWIS says: ‘Over the last five years we can track that Grenache hectares are increasing and are outweighing uprootings.’

Paarl plantings are significant at 172.67ha, extending to the Swartland, where they total 150.17ha.

Grenache on the rise

The numbers are encouraging. Some of South Africa’s most exciting producers are realising the enormous potential of this climate-resilient grape variety, especially with the increasingly drier conditions.

While there is no official Grenache association (yet), a group regularly meets to benchmark top international versions, taste each other’s wines and swap ideas.

Among them are David Trafford and Charla Bosman (of Sijnn Wines); Tyrrel Myburgh of Joostenburg who produces an organic, small-batch Grenache; Elizma Visser of Olifantsberg; and Marelise Niemann of Momento Wines, arguably the grape’s most devoted champion.

Niemann makes the whole rainbow of Grenache: Blanc, Gris and Noir. Added to this she works across a variety of sites, namely the Swartland, Bot River, the Piekenierskloof and, for the 2025 vintage, the Breedekloof, bottling the soil types separately.

A harvest in Spain’s Priorat propelled her to start Momento. She explains that her aim was: ‘To create awareness of the potential that Grenache has in South Africa, and to get people to drink, and plant, more of it!’

Grenache may have once only played a supporting role in South African wine, but that’s no longer the case.

From old plots in the Piekenierskloof to new plantings across the Cape, this bush vine-suited, drought-resistant grape is stepping into the spotlight backed by a growing contingent of highly respected producers.

‘Hairy’ Grenache

Instigated by top vineyard consultant and Decanter Hall of Fame recipient, Rosa Kruger, in 2018 Garnacha Peluda was planted at Kloovenburg in the Swartland. Known colloquially as ‘Hairy Grenache’ it is a mutation of the cultivar that sports hairy leaves on the underside, which helps the vine cope with hot, dry conditions.

It is said to ripen a week earlier as well as have a fruitier profile and higher acidity than Grenache. In 2024, Kloovenburg produced the first blend of the two: 72% Grenache matured in old foudre, with 28% Garnacha Peluda aged in cement tank.

South African Grenache: 15 to try

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Malu Lambert: My top 10 wines of 2024

It is in just such a situation that scoring can be helpful. Wine adventurers, who come across unfamiliar sparkling wines priced at the same level as Champagne, may be given the reassurance they need to buy after seeing a high score given by a taster or outlet they hold in high regard.

There’s no doubt that many consumers find wine scores useful – hence our use of them in Decanter. But some judges and critics score reluctantly, worrying that it reduces a complex liquid to a lowest common denominator, and keen to draw attention instead (or at least as well) to their more nuanced tasting notes. Read our deep dive into the subject, and then please do email in to share your view.

See what’s inside Decanter magazine April 2025

In focus

• Return of the native Discover Italy’s lesser-known and revived local grape varieties, urges Raffaele Mosca
• Chianti DOCG: 20 top picks Explore Chianti beyond ‘Classico’, with Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW
• 30 vintages of an under-the-radar SuperTuscan Michaela Morris talks to Lamberto Frescobaldi about the birth and ongoing evolution of Luce
• Prosecco Superiore: One man’s mission Jason Millar meets Diego Tomasi, director of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene consorzio
• Piedmont’s shifting focus White grapes are gaining popularity in northern Italy, writes David Way
• The art of the score What do wine critics really think about scoring wine, asks Cassandra Charlick
• Regional profile: A different world Tom Hewson visits Champagne’s southern outpost, the Côte des Bar
• South Africa’s next generation Introducing six exciting young winemakers, chosen by Malu Lambert

Spirits

• Distilled Spirits news
• Coming up rosas Millie Milliken charts the rise of rosa tequila

Food & travel

• What to pair with Mexican cuisine Fiona Beckett’s tips on matching wine to Mexican food’s lively flavours
• Travel: Italian winery restaurants Six fine-dining destinations among the vines, by Alessandra Piubello
• Travel: Where to drink wine in Verona Local wine folk tell Demet Güzey about eight great destinations

Learning

• Books etc Sophie Thorpe recommends three tales of people ‘living the dream’
• Wine wisdom Expert tips, and ‘The ethical drinker’ on bees and vines

Buying guide

• Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings
• Panel tasting: Bardolino Rosso A tasting of 54 wines reveals food-friendly options, to lightly chill
• Panel tasting: Vermentino 2023: Tuscany vs Sardinia Which region is the best source of great Vermentino?
• Expert’s choice: Asti Filippo Bartolotta singles out 18 top drops from a region ripe for rediscovery
• Weekday wines Decanter’s in-house tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink and priced at £30 or less
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Discover top wine recommendations, vintage reports, regional profiles and travel tips from our team of experts, to keep your finger on the pulse of the Cape’s dynamic wine scene.

Popular South Africa wine articles

For the latest Decanter reader event, we’re shining a light on the southern hemisphere – specifically on the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. Star of the show will be Journey’s End, established by the Gabb family in 1995.

Nestled at the furthest eastern corner of Stellenbosch and overlooking False Bay, Journey’s End is the closest winery in the region to the sea.

This masterclass will be a chance to immerse yourself in its award-winning Bordeaux blends, tasting alongside winemaker Michael Dawson, who has headed up winemaking at the estate since 2015.

Working with fruit from vineyards planted on the ancient decomposed granite soils of the Schapenberg Hills, Dawson has crafted a range of blends that speak of this unique Cape terroir.

Premium cuvées

The tasting will begin with acclaimed white Bordeaux blend Ad Infinitum, named for its lingering finish that almost stretches out towards infinity. Discover how the cooling influence of the Atlantic Ocean contributes to the exceptional freshness of this Sauvignon-Semillon, as Dawson discusses the viticultural and vinicultural techniques used to craft this impressive cuvée.

Then step back in time, with a rare chance to taste an older vintage of Journey’s End Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about the noteworthy 2006 vintage – a year marked by cool and dry growing conditions, which resulted in smaller than average yields and concentrated wines – and discover the evolution of this impressively ageworthy wine.

A vertical to remember

The highlight of the masterclass will be a vertical tasting of top Journey’s End wine Cape Doctor, named after the strong south-eastern wind that blows in from False Bay and funnels through Stellenbosch to Cape Town. As Dawson explains: ‘This keeps the vines healthy and disease-free – hence the name.’

Cape Doctor is produced from exceptional vineyard blocks, with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot that changes from vintage to vintage. It embodies the long hang times, structured elegance and complexity that are the hallmarks of Stellenbosch’s finest and longest-lived red Bordeaux blends.

This tasting of a selection of vintages from 2018 to 2007 offers a unique chance to study the evolution of this outstanding cuvée that’s won many international awards.

The wines that will be tasted during the masterclass include the following:

Ad Infinitum 2024

Ad Infinitum 2022 5 stars, Platter Guide

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 5 stars, Platter Guide

Cape Doctor, The Red 2018 4.5 stars, Platter Guide

Cape Doctor, The Red 2015 5 stars, Platter Guide

The Cape Doctor Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

The Cape Doctor 2009

The Cape Doctor 2007

Beyond wine

Alongside this stellar line-up of bottles, Dawson will be discussing the work done by Journey’s End to protect and nurture the local people and land of the estate. This includes a commitment to sustainable farming and conservation of native Cape fauna and flora that earned the winery WWF Conservation Champion status in 2021.

The estate has been fully Fairtrade certified since April 2017. Meanwhile the Journey’s End Foundation has provided over 6,000,000 meals to the local community to date, co-funded a local school hall and supports education and empowerment projects for the local community.

An exceptional evening

So join Decanter for what promises to be an unmissable event. This is a unique opportunity to explore top Cape bottles in the company of wine experts and fellow wine lovers – and to discover why the Bordeaux blends of South Africa deserve their place on a global stage.

Buy tickets

Essential information for Decanter Presents…

Journey’s End: The Bordeaux Legacy in Stellenbosch

Date: Tuesday 6 May 2024 from 6.30pm to 8:30pm

Location: Decanter Tasting Suite, 121-141 Westbourne Terrace, Paddington, London, W2 6JR

Price: £49 per ticket

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‘Climate change is going to have a big impact in this country.’ Those are the words of viticulturist Rosa Kruger, who has been at the cutting edge of next generation viticulture in South Africa’s Western Cape over the last two decades.

‘What was predicted 10 years ago is now real. We have terrible floods, extreme heat and severe drought.’

Kruger has been warning about climate change for years but the drought of 2015-2018, when Cape Town came perilously close to no longer being able to supply mains water to residents, was a wake-up call for the industry.

Vines, deprived of the irrigation they relied on, died in their tens of thousands.

Jason’s suggestions for a 12-pack of South Africa’s next generation varieties below

A new reality

Against this backdrop, South Africa has begun one of the world’s most ambitious and forward-thinking programmes for transforming its wine lands. ‘Water is going to be gold in the future,’ Kruger says. ‘We have to find alternative varieties, and adapt our viticulture.’

The 1980s and 1990s saw the Cape propagate fashionable and commercially expedient French varieties. However Jacques Steyn, managing director of Jordan Wines in Stellenbosch, is now looking to countries such as Greece, Spain and Italy for inspiration.

‘Their varieties are far more suited to our Mediterranean climate. Planting more Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc is not the answer,’ he says.

Jordan has the distinction of being the first winery in the Cape to bottle a varietal Assyrtiko (see tasting note below). This Greek variety has been long-championed by Kruger, who has been a driving force behind many of the drought-resistant plantings.

‘I went to Santorini, I walked those vineyards, I felt the wind and it was like being in Polkadraai,’ she recalls, referring to the fashionable, windy subzone of Stellenbosch, just next door to Jordan’s Assyrtiko new plantings. First produced in 2023, Jordan’s outstanding example has encouraged interest from other producers.

Lessons learned

Eben Sadie, of Sadie Family Wines in Swartland, lost a quarter of his vines between 2016 and 2018. But, he asserts, the drought made them better farmers. He now farms without irrigation, determined to find naturally adapted varieties that can survive without additional water. ‘Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir – they’re a disaster here,’ Eben says, shaking his head.

Instead, Sadie has 18 experimental varieties co-planted next to the winery. ‘You can’t believe how well these perform,’ Sadie says. ‘Agiorgitiko, Assyrtiko, Vermentino – they’re phenomenal. They outperform existing vines.’

The drought brought the viticultural challenges of climate change to all of the Western Cape. What once seemed like the niche preoccupation of winemakers in extreme climates such as the Swartland soon gained recognition among the winemaking establishment in South Africa.

Research & development

Tucked away behind the main campus of the University of Stellenbosch is an experimental site of 4.5ha. Conceived in 2019 and planted in 2020, it’s officially known as the Welgevallen Training and Research Vineyard. It is the home of the GenZ vineyard project, an initiative led by industry body Vinpro to research the future of South African vineyard plantings following the drought.

As part of the project, Vinpro has also sponsored experimental plantings of new varieties on the farms of producers across the Western Cape, to see how they perform in the real world. One of these is a plot of Vermentino planted in sandy soils in Koekenaap in the Western Cape.

It caught the eye of Sakkie Mouton, who has been at the vanguard of putting this region on the fine wine map.

‘Vermentino has great acidity even in 40℃ heat. I’ve never seen sunburn on the berries and it’s more drought resistant than Chenin Blanc,’ says Mouton. ‘I love working with it.’

Other Italian varieties have already made themselves at home in the Cape. In 2004, Petrus Bosman brought 50 Nero d’Avola vines from Sicily to South Africa, of which just two survived. It was enough to propagate two entire vineyards in Wellington. The country’s first Nero d’Avola was produced in 2014.

‘It’s a great variety to work with,’ says Corlea Fourie, head of wine and viticulture at Bosman. ‘The vineyard just looks so healthy and happy and we have great natural acidity.’

Old boots, new roads

The next generation isn’t just about planting new varieties. Veteran producers, including established pioneer Ian Naudé of Naudé Wines, stress that there is huge potential in existing old-vine plantings. ‘I love Assyrtiko but, as well as that, why don’t we work with what we’ve already got?’ he asks.

Naudé produces two wines from old vine Colombard grown in Vredendal. Langpad is 100% Colombard, while Soutbos is a blend of Chenin Blanc with Colombard in support. He is bullish about the potential for the variety: ‘It’s the most exciting thing for many years. It is going to be the new Chenin Blanc.’

Historically planted for brandy distillation, Naudé notes that Colombard accounts for over 10% of plantings and is the second-largest category of old vines in the Cape (Source: South African Wine Industry Statistics report 2023).

White knights

Rising star Joan Heatlie arrives for a tasting after being up all night helping a friend in Paarl fight the wildfires that climate change has made all too common. She makes one wine under her Glen Heatlie label, a Grenache Blanc from Wellington.

First planted in 1904, this variety is, like Colombard, making a comeback with hectarage up 254% in four years thanks to its drought-resistance.

Heatlie’s wine isn’t from the usual decomposed granite of the Cape, but from iron and clay soils. ‘I don’t know of anyone else who’s working with this profile for Grenache Blanc,’ she says.

The result is a wine of spicy complexity, one of the finest examples of the variety anywhere in the world. Along with the wines of contemporaries such as Marelise Niemann of Momento, Heatlie is making the case for Grenache Blanc as an important white grape for the future.

It will be in good company. Several Rhône varieties have already proven their quality in the Cape. Syrah/Shiraz led the charge – although plantings have decreased since 2018 – while Mourvèdre remains a speciality for certain wineries.

But it’s now Grenache Noir that’s turning heads for its ability to survive without irrigation while producing delicate, perfumed wines at relatively low alcohols.

New horizons

The next step is to market and sell these varieties. Will they make it as varietal wines, or are they destined to be ameliorating components in blends?

While the industry continues to figure that out, it’s clear that what goes into the ground now will shape the country’s wine industry in the decades to come.

Kruger and her allies remain steadfast in their vision – adapting to climate change isn’t a commercial decision, but an existential necessity.

As Heatlie puts it, after her night fighting fires: ‘South Africa is at a crucial stage. It’s time to think about the second and the third generation and plant for the future.’

South Africa’s next generation varieties: 12 wines to try

Related articles

• Momento Wines: A passion for Grenache
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Vivat Bacchus, a top South African restaurant in London, has announced a partnership with the Africa College Foundation to transform the lives of underprivileged youth in South Africa. The collaboration kicks off with a charity dinner and auction on World Education Day, Friday 24 January 2025, at the restaurant’s Farringdon location.

As part of the new collaboration, Vivat Bacchus will be supporting the Africa College Foundation’s Education Town project in Johannesburg. This initiative provides life-changing educational opportunities to some of South Africa’s most vulnerable youth, including refugees, orphans and survivors of violence.

To fund the programme, Vivat Bacchus is introducing a £1 donation per bill across its restaurants. The goal is to raise £25,000 over the coming year – enough to sponsor at least 10 students through the Education Town programme.

‘We’re thrilled to formalise this partnership with the Africa College Foundation,’ said James Dawson, CEO of Vivat Bacchus. ‘South Africa is at the heart of who we are, and this collaboration allows us to give back in a meaningful way. The £1-per-bill initiative is just the beginning of what we hope will be a long-term commitment to empowering young South Africans.’

The Africa College Foundation supports the Maharishi Invincibility Institute (MII), which offers education, nourishment, counselling and mentorship to young adults from impoverished backgrounds. For £2,500, a student can be sponsored for a full year, while £400 can feed four students for the same period.

Nearly 95% of graduates from this programme secure job placements, a stark contrast to South Africa’s 60% unemployment rate among 18- to 24-year-olds. Since its inception, the MII model has helped over 20,000 students transition into the middle class within five years of graduation, uplifting more than 150,000 family members along the way.

‘When you drink South African wine, you’re not just enjoying a fantastic glass – you’re contributing to a centuries-old tradition that supports entire communities,’ said Dawson. ‘South African wineries are a key employer, providing jobs at every stage – from grape-picking and winemaking to logistics and export. Our restaurant showcases these wines, and we’re investing in the next generation to keep that legacy alive.’

The charity dinner and auction at Vivat Bacchus will celebrate the partnership and highlight the impact of the Africa College Foundation’s work. Guests will enjoy a three-course South African braai feast (with vegetarian and vegan options) with a South African wine tasting. The event will also feature a charity auction.

Tickets are available now, with proceeds directly funding the Education Town project.

Related articles

• South Africa’s black winemakers; building a future
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Who doesn’t love a trip to London? I may live in a wine-producing country, but London? It’s the beating heart of the wine world.

This was my first visit to Decanter in situ, and I was invited to taste on the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Panel Tasting. The wines on show highlighted how producers are pushing stylistic differences, from Banghoek to Bottelary, rather than just ‘Stellenbosch’.

The top contender was Le Riche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017.

Scroll down for Malu’s top 10 South African wines of 2024

While in the UK I jumped on a train to Sussex to visit the Jordans (of Jordan Wine Estate in Stellenbosch) at the medieval Mousehall. They’ve just released the maiden Tidebrook Wines.

I mention this as they’re not the only South Africans prospecting English vineyards, there’s a growing number – an interesting trend to watch.

South Africa’s ‘secret weapon’

Touching down in Cape Town, it was straight back to tasting for Decanter. This time for My top 20 South African white blends article. Eben Sadie’s Palladius 2022, an iconic Chenin-based blend, is proof that South Africa’s secret weapon is having this grape as its backbone.

Boasting the majority plantings of Chenin Blanc in the world, we may as well make good use of it. Using Chenin as ballast also has the advantage of being uniquely South African; where else do you find such a preponderance of premium Chenin-based cuvées?

That said, the Sauvignon-Semillons also fared well. What’s surprising is that for the relatively high quality, producers find this blend difficult to sell. Consumers would rather reach for a straight Sauvignon Blanc.

Adept with both grapes is winemaker Trizanne Barnard. One afternoon at her beachside home, we dove into her 2023 Seascape range. The stand-out was the Sondagskloof White 2023: wild fermented, some barrel, half skin-contact Sauvignon, named for a tiny Cape South Coast ward.

Barnard is not alone in experimenting: the use of oak, spontaneous fermentation, lees contact et al, is on the rise. This was illustrated by the Sauvignon Blanc category winner in Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2025: Diemersdal Wild Horseshoe 2023 – which makes use of all of those techniques.

Celebrating success

Some personal successes this year included being named a finalist in the inaugural 67 Pall Mall Global Wine Communicator Awards. Then, while in Zanzibar I got the news that I managed to not only clinch the WSET Diploma, but also win three of the modules.

Fine wine is not readily available on the island, so I settled for an ice cold beer – which tasted pretty good! Back home we celebrated by popping a bottle of the Silverthorn Jewel Box 2019.

Suddenly, we were in the thick of release season. Duncan Savage’s release at his urban winery was memorable. A seamless, confident showing, with the Girl Next Door 2023 rising to the top using Syrah parcels from both Noordhoek and Fish Hoek.

These unusual growing areas were chosen partly, I suspect, for the opportunity to surf between pickings…

From one surfer to another: Miles Mossop and the launch of his Cab-led Sam 2021 at Salon by chef-patron Luke Dale Roberts. Something that struck me was how much more elegant Mossop’s wines have become after leaving the life of a salaried winemaker in 2018.

Varieties to watch

While Salon was a feast for the palate, sometimes simple food seems to make wines shine all the brighter. The Roodekrantz 2023 release tasting at a dive bar underscored this.

Six excellent Chenin Blancs that were nuanced, characterful and carried the signature of their sites. Has there been a more impressive Chenin showcase since Chris Alheit?

While hard to choose – it was the Roodekrantz Die Kliphuis 2023 that pipped the post. Roodekrantz is smart to bet on this workhorse; the premiumisation of Chenin Blanc is becoming a thing.

So much so, that there’s a well-funded research project on the go with this as its focus. Could we soon have a Chenin brand equivalent to Cloudy Bay?

Another cultivar of the moment is undoubtedly Grenache. Suited to hotter climes, dry-land farming and bush-vine cultivation (like in Spain, a South African speciality) we’re seeing the emergence of more single-varietal bottlings.

Probably my favourite tasting of the year benchmarked some top SA Grenache against international bottlings in Joostenberg’s tasting room. One of the attending producers, Marelise Niemann, is so passionate about the variety that she makes four different regional versions.

Her Momento Grenache Noir Piekenierskloof 2022 proves that Grenache can deliver in cooler wards, too.

Don’t forget Chardonnay

Chardonnay has somewhat taken a backseat to Chenin in recent years, but the launch of the Chardonnay Association of South Africa in November, which already has 55 members, has bolstered the variety.

Overall the quality at the launch tasting was outstanding, with Restless River’s Ava Marie Chardonnay 2022 disappearing most quickly in my glass. The diversity of sites on display was particularly interesting, such as the high-lying vines in the Sutherland-Karoo district.

My final (professional, that is) wine lunch of the year took place at my local, The Foodbarn, presided over by the inimitable chef Franck Dangereux. I met with distributor David Clarke of Ex Animo, who had a number of interesting pours.

The Testalonga El Bandito Skin Chenin Blanc 2024 makes the cut here for how distinctly South African it is, there’s just simply nowhere else in the world that it could come from. And that is something to celebrate.

Malu Lambert’s top 10 South African wines of 2024

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Decanter’s expert writers and contributors awarded 95-points or more to almost 3,000 wines in the 12 months to October 2024.

While they have all appeared in the pages of Decanter magazine and online on Decanter Premium and in our decanter.com database, there were too many to reproduce here for a seasonal wrap-up.

So, in a somewhat unfair and very challenging task, we asked each of our Regional Editors to select just five wines from each of their key areas of expertise to highlight the bounty and diversity on offer across the world wine map.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the Australian, New Zealand and South African Wines of the Year 2024

For Decanter’s inaugural New Zealand Pinot Noir vintage report, Emma Jenkins MW tasted 240 wines – a showcase of the value, quality and drinking pleasure this category offers.

Several producers stood out – including Bell Hill, Escarpment, Felton Road, Prophet’s Rock and Rippon – but it was Ata Rangi that scooped two top spots, its Kotinga cuvée seducing with its charm, vibrancy and immediacy.

In another first, our Margaret River vintage report by Cassandra Charlick (August 2024 issue) highlighted the excellent 2022 Chardonnay and more challenging 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon vintages.

In the former, Vanya Cullen’s Kevin John was one of several standout wines.

From South Australia, Penfolds’ Bin 169 2021 made a splash in La Place de Bordeaux’s March releases. It trumped stablemates Bin 707 and Grange, thanks to offering great comparative value in a near-perfect Coonawarra vintage.

A feather in the cap for Yalumba in its 175th anniversary year, the Octavius 2018 from 100-year-old Barossa Shiraz vines also impressed with its fruit purity and refinement; evidence of the changing face of this iconic regional style.

And from South Africa, Creation won plaudits for its Art of Chardonnay. Alongside Hamilton Russell, Newton Johnson and Crystallum, it proves why Hemel-en-Aarde, one of the world’s most southerly wine-producing regions, should be on the radar for all Burgundy lovers.

Quick links:

See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Bordeaux & Burgundy | Champagne, Rhône and regional France | Italy | Spain & Portugal | The US | South America | Rest of the World

Wines of the Year 2024: Australia, New Zealand & South Africa

Wines are listed white then red, in score order

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For close-up encounters with wild animals in their natural habitat, it’s hard to beat a safari in Kruger National Park and the adjacent Greater Kruger area. In addition to the state-owned national park, some 20 fenceless private reserves flanking the park’s western border combine to create a vast 2,250,000ha wilderness area.

Watered by the Sand and Sabie rivers, the lusher south attracts the highest concentrations of game, and in the private concessions – a few located within Kruger National Park but most found in the private reserves of Greater Kruger – knowledgeable guides and the right to traverse off-road can bring you within spitting distance of predators. Conveniently, it’s also a year-round destination: from May, when winter pares back foliage and water sources shrink, animals are easier to spot, and sunny days are bookended by bitingly cold but clear nights. Summer can be hot and humid, but dramatic thunderstorms perfume the air with petrichor, migrant birds flit by like jewels and the flowering knob thorns are puffs of pale yellow under a deep-blue sky.

Less enthralling, at least until recently, was the wine offering. With the exception of Luke Bailes, founder of Singita, lodge owners saw wine selection as secondary to building suites the size of apartments, with plunge pools burbling in timber decks. House wines were, for the most part, risible – unforgivable really, given what’s been being produced across the Cape in the past two decades – but recent years have seen a marked improvement.

For wine consultant Stephan Niehaus, who moved to the Lowveld in 2017, the challenge was not only to improve lists but to root wine culture in a region more than 1,500km from the Cape. ‘It’s no good having a cellar full of amazing wines without knowledgeable and passionate wine stewards and sommeliers,’ he says. ‘Wine tastings and intensive training trips to the Cape can make a huge difference. The lodge owners that have grasped this are reaping the rewards. If great wines are an integral part of the safari experience, and shipping arrangements easy, guests can also relive their safari memories once home.’

Here, then, are four Kruger lodges that offer an in-house tour of the Cape winelands – and Cheetah Plains is another worth highlighting. All have been picked for their hospitality, location, accommodation and, of course, game viewing. Conservation is an expensive business, so none, I’m afraid, is cheap. But with ecotourism a key plank of conservation here, you’re playing your part in protecting one of the world’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries.

Singita Lebombo

Southeastern Kruger National Park

Singita is the most awarded safari outfit in Africa, and justifiably so: now in four African countries, it offers an experience that floors even the jaded. Lebombo is a personal favourite, as much for the 25m lap pool and groundbreaking Community Culinary School as the location: an exclusive 15,000ha concession in the remote southeast of Kruger National Park, where large prides of lion tussle over territory.

The lodge comprises 15 contemporary glass-walled suites, plus a four-bedroom villa; the best are elevated and cantilevered off steep, vegetated banks above the N’wanetsi river. There are daily tastings in the wine studio and sommeliers and wine stewards are trained to match diverse preferences with a meticulously curated wine list that covers a wide range of winemaking styles.

Visionary conservation-hotelier Luke Bailes invested heavily in Singita’s wine collection from the outset. But its Premier Wine Direct program (which enables guests to ship wines they enjoyed on safari to their homes) really took shape after Bailes noted the impact former head chef and wine judge Francois Rautenbach’s encyclopaedic knowledge of the local wine industry had on guests. Today, Singita’s collection is almost 200,000 bottles strong, most of which are stored in an energy-efficient maturation facility in Stellenbosch – only when a wine has reached its full potential is it shipped to the lodges.

Singita has also led the way in training, providing annual visits to the Cape Winelands and online engagement with producers. New buying specialist Jörg Pfützner says: ‘We aim to reflect the dynamic nature of the wine industry, identifying producers who are capturing the beauty of the Western Cape through the lens of wine. Our aim is to connect guests with this, and create extraordinary memories of where and with whom these wines were consumed.’ From R45,560 pp per night.

How to get there

It’s quickest to fly directly to Satara airstrip (45 minutes from the lodge) in Kruger National Park from Johannesburg with Federal Airlines. Guests are collected by Singita.

Malewane Lodge

Thornybush Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

The first hospitality project of owners Liz and Phil Biden, Malewane Lodge launched what became the Royal Portfolio, a circuit of world-class properties in some of SA’s most desirable locations. The portfolio includes La Residence, their working wine farm in Franschhoek; Birkenhead House, a beach villa perched on a promontory overlooking the Walker bay whale nursery; and the Silo Hotel, part of the iconic Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa in the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town.

Malewane Lodge is located in Thornybush Nature Reserve – a 15,000ha private reserve to the west of Kruger, with which it shares a fenceless border. The landscape is more monotonous than the lusher south, but game densities are high, and guiding is among the best in Africa. Dining has always been stellar, but wines really took off in 2021, when the Bidens tasked Court of Master Sommeliers-certified sommelier Wayve Kolevsohn with taking their offer to the next level. This she has done, in abundance.

Guests have close to 30 wines available by the glass or bottle, and the selection is superb, showcasing predominantly small-batch, new-wave South African producers. You can dip into this at any time; a tasting can even be arranged at a sunset table set up in the bush. Or enjoy the meal pairings – Kolevsohn works closely with executive chef Archie Maclean. ‘So many have never tasted South African wines before, or at least not at this level. It is such a privilege to present young, up-and-coming wine producers, and showcase the enormous diversity that the Cape winemakers are producing,’ says Kolevsohn. From R47,500 pp per night.

How to get there

A few airlines fly directly from Cape Town or Johannesburg to Hoedspruit’s small Eastgate airport, located just outside Kruger. From here it’s a 45-minute transfer by road.

More Tinga & Narina

Southern Kruger National Park

Part of the More Family Collection – a small portfolio of excellent lodges and hotels that has grown from a parcel of land in Sabi Sand purchased by CEO Robert More’s great-grandfather in 1933 – Tinga and Narina lodges are top picks for their romantic riverside location; each enjoys an elevated position on the banks of the Sabie river.

The lodges are located within the 5,000ha Lion Sands private concession within the national park, which, though relatively small, is highly coveted, offering excellent game viewing. There is also the proximity to dinky Skukuza airport: within minutes of landing, you’re checked in, welcome drink in hand, taking in those languid river views.

Both resorts offer nine large suites. Tinga is more geared towards families, thanks to a communal pool, a dedicated playroom, an additional two-bedroom unit and a range of tailor-made experiences for children aged six to 11. Narina is only able to accommodate children above the age of 10, making it more the honeymooners’ choice.

The lodges boast a much more compact wine offering than the others mentioned here, but it’s well considered, showcasing South Africa’s most popular varieties. The More wine stewards undertook their first training trip to the Cape earlier this year with consultant Niehaus, who is also conducting regular tastings at the lodges.

Robert More credits chef Amori Burger – nowat the helm of the More Family Collection’s first standalone restaurant, Upper Union, at the Cape Cadogan Boutique Hotel in Cape Town – with turning the spotlight on wine. ‘When you are working in conservation as well as hospitality, there is just so much to focus on. Amori’s passion for good-quality wine pushed us to improve, and we are only too grateful to make this an integral part of the safari experience.’ From R26,995 pp per night, but look out for discounted rates if you book more than one More Family Collection stay.

How to get there

Fly direct from Cape Town or Johannesburg into Skukuza airport, within the national park. Transfers are included in the rate and take less than 10 minutes.

Dulini Moya

Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

One of only a few concessions that enjoy unencumbered access to both sides of the Sand river, 10,500ha Dulini is one of the prettiest concessions in Sabi Sand, in turn the most sought-after private reserve in the south of the Greater Kruger area. In parts, with sunlight dappled through branches shading the slow-flowing river and waterbuck cropping the grassy banks, it looks like a benign Wind in the Willows idyll – were it not for the crocs sunning themselves on the banks.

Dulini offers three very different lodge options – all are tremendous, but Moya, the original, is charmingly old-school, with six thatched suites opulently dressed in nostalgic-safari style. Dainty-hooved nyala nibble the lush indigenous lawns between open-air lounges, and the vaulted wine cellar offers a fabulous selection of well-displayed wines, which guests can explore with an app or, better still, with Neo Khoza, Moya’s sommelier.

After several trips to the Cape and the creation of an in-house wine club, wine appreciation has permeated the team. Most staff are able to advise on which of the 15 or so house wines available by the glass might suit your palate or plate. As Iain Garratt, the warm, hands-on owner comments: ‘Safari should be the perfect culmination of romance and adventure, and good wine very much part of an “indulgently inclusive” experience.’ Quite. From R26,800 pp per night.

How to get there

Fly directly into Skukuza from Johannesburg or Cape Town with Airlink. Dulini will have a vehicle waiting to make the 90-minute transfer by road to the lodge, exiting and re-entering Kruger.

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Anyone tracking the story of South African wine is aware of the winemaking revolution that has swept the Cape over the last decade or more.

After a period when the anticipated ‘breakout’ moment looked like it would never happen, the dam has now well and truly broken.

South Africa’s winemaking scene is one that has been transformed. It is exciting. And it is vibrant.

And caught up in that – though not to much fanfare – has been a grape that celebrated its centenary this year – Pinotage.

Scroll down for seven (mostly South African) Pinotage to try

Obscure beginnings

Pinotage is a man-made crossing of two Vitis vinifera, Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Cinsault was known in South Africa as ‘Hermitage’ – a nod to its southern French roots – creating the portmanteau name ‘Pino-tage’.

The man who brought these two varieties together in 1924 was Abraham Isak Perold, a professor at the University of Stellenbosch.

Taking up a new post, Perold left his new crossings growing in the university garden where they were later rescued by a colleague.

Gradually, the plants were grafted to rootstocks and propagated, with the first vineyard being planted in Myrtle Grove near Sir Lowry’s Pass.

The famous Kanonkop estate had its first Pinotage plantings by 1941, but it is the Lanzerac estate that claims the first commercial bottling of Pinotage – with the grape’s name on the label – in 1959.

Nature vs nurture

Initial outsider reactions to Pinotage were not very positive and subsequent incarnations didn’t do much to help it make friends.

Like all children, Pinotage inherited as many bad traits from its parents as it did good. For example, it is vigorous and likes the heat, but can quickly become too ripe in sugar before it’s physiologically ripe if there are no cooling influences, or if there is no guiding hand to curb this tendency.

It’s a relatively low maintenance variety in the vineyard but very high maintenance in the winery, with an aptitude to develop paint-like aromas and volatile acidity very easily if not properly handled.

But nurture also played its part in Pinotage’s dismal international debut. The late 1990s and early 2000s was the age of big reds, of long hang times, maximum ripeness, maximum extraction and lashings of new oak.

With thick skins, Pinotage was capable of giving a lot of colour and tannins through extraction. Full of sugar, it could achieve very high alcohol.

But if it was picked before it reached full phenolic ripeness, then its tannins and flavours would be green and underripe.

Flabby, alcoholic, overly-tannic, with rampant green flavours, volatile acidity and South Africa’s old problem of smokey, rubbery aromas in red wine arising from virused vine material, made a lot of early Pinotage a potent witch’s brew.

The lost varieties

Pinotage is the classic example of an ‘after-thought grape’, planted in the wrong places, vinified in the wrong way and demonised as a result.

Grenache, Gamay, Bobál, País, Carmenère, are among a host of fellow grape varieties sacrificed on stylistic altars that rendered them cheap, dull and nasty.

Even a grape as hallowed as Chardonnay spent time in the wilderness as a by-word for kitsch, vanilla-flavoured naffness.

But, while these grapes have all been successfully rehabilitated, finding renewed success and acclaim thanks to more sensitive winemaking, Pinotage continues to carry its stigma among many critics.

Reinvention and redemption

There is no denying that criticism of Pinotage was once warranted. But continued criticism is increasingly out of step with the reality of the state of the grape today.

Recent years have seen a complete transformation in how Pinotage is approached from vine to bottle. Old bush vines help to curb its overripeness, and more careful extraction avoids excessive, bitter tannins.

It should be a surprise to no-one that approaching Pinotage more sympathetically, and playing to what it does well, has done wonders for its qualitative output.

And there is a wide spectrum of styles to be explored too. Pinotage can be plummy, structured and full-bodied, and capable of ageing – as a 1994 KWV Pinotage I once tried amply showed.

Many of the classic Cape estates of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl lean towards this style; Kanonkop being a prime example.

On the other hand Pinotage can also be bright and succulent, with the kind of sappy, crunchy red fruits and lissom, gouléyant silkiness that all the cool kids yearn for – look out for the likes of Natte Vallej, Scions of Sinai, David & Nadia Sadie etc.

And in-between there’s a growing array of medium to full-bodied that are well made, very drinkable and priced very well. The sort of wines you’d sit alongside your ‘casual’ or ‘BBQ’ choices such as Malbec or Shiraz.

The House of Pinotage

There’s no argument that Pinotage didn’t deserve the early criticism. There are still poor examples being made (as with every grape), though most, I would argue, are just dull or lazily made rather than truly faulty.

And it’s probably not a variety that will ever quite hit the upper levels of refinement and sophistication of the truly noble grape houses. Pinotage is very much a minor cadet of the House of Pinot.

But the notion that it is inherently bad is simply false. Those who’ve taken the time to watch Pinotage’s evolution have been banging this drum for a while as per this Decanter article from 2016.

And it’s telling that, far from being relegated to the realm of a ‘supermarket’ wine, Pinotage from the very best producers are an increasingly common sight in trendy independent merchants and even, on occasion, smart fine wine merchants too.

It may have taken a century or so to get there but Pinotage is coming good.

A Ukrainian anomaly

It would probably be true to say that 99% (and a smidge more) of Pinotage plantings are in South Africa.

Aside from a smattering of vineyards hither and yon around the world, few countries have taken to the variety with any gusto. And after its initial introduction to the world stage, this isn’t particularly surprising.

But it does occasionally crop up in surprising places – and one of those is Ukraine. The Beykush Winery on the shores of the Black Sea has planted some and, honestly, has given it a good crack.

I liked the bright, juicy red berry fruit. It was plump and smoothly pulled together, with fine tannins and good acidity, with perhaps just a touch of bitter astringency on the finish. It even won a Bronze at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards.

One to watch.

Seven Pinotage to try

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What is a field blend? How is it different from a blended wine?

Imagine a meadow of wildflowers picked all at once and made into perfume. Field blends are wines made from different grape varieties that are grown together in one vineyard and then co-fermented. Traditional wine blends, on the other hand, use grapes from different plots, fermented separately by variety and blended later.

The idea of mixed-grape vineyards can be traced to Roman agricultural practices, as documented by writer-farmer Columella in the 1st century CE. It didn’t happen overnight and certainly not for romantic reasons, but rather for yield.

Grapevines were likely sparse and scattered back in the day. Farmers harvested existing wild and native grapes together, and if a grape didn’t perform, it would be replaced with something that might work better.

They would propagate, trade, select and cultivate for desirable traits, such as productivity and resistance to pests and diseases. So, it makes sense that field blends are typically found in the Old World and are associated with older vines, because they pre-date modern varietal planting.

Four examples of field blends listed below

So none in the New World?

Not quite. There are centenarian vines producing field blends outside of Europe. Known for its pre-industrial agricultural approach, California’s Ridge Vineyards produces estate-grown field blends starring Zinfandel.

Also, its Pagani Ranch wine is a field blend from vines planted from the late 1800s. In neighbouring Lake County, Dancing Crow Vineyards makes a wine from co-planted vines in the ground since 1901.

These are among the few surviving field blend vineyards aged 100 years or more in California, as recognised by the Historical Vineyard Society.

Beyond California there are handfuls of other producers who are intentionally planting vineyards to produce field blends, such as South Africa’s Alheit Vineyards.

Which areas of the world are known for field blends?

Austria’s history with field blends is now seeing a revival. Gemischter Satz is a wine that showcases co-fermented grapes cultivated in and around Vienna. Producer Fritz Wieninger describes the perfect Gemischter Satz as a wine in which individual varieties are indiscernible.

‘One variety is like an instrument and the Gemischter Satz is the whole orchestra,’ he explains.

In Portugal’s Douro valley, co-planting has been a tradition for centuries, initially for Port production and more recently also for dry wines. Quinta do Crasto’s Maria Teresa comes from a plot of 54 grape varieties from heritage vines, according to Miguel Roquette, who says ‘the recipe is in the field’.

Exceptionally varied microclimates dictate precise harvest times of specific sections within the vineyard to best illuminate the terroir, and maintain the integrity and complexity of the wine.

Any other names to look out for?

Also in Portugal, Antonio Madeira seeks the ethereal side of the Dão and shares his love of rescuing old forgotten vines to make a palhete, in which black and white grapes are ‘mixed joyfully’ to create easy-drinking ‘farmer’s style’ wines.

The long-ageing ‘complantation’ wines of Domaine Marcel Deiss in Alsace are both traditional and visionary, highlighting soil specificity through 13 Alsace varieties. With great respect for tradition, Scarbolo in Friuli, northeast Italy, appreciates field blends for their ‘fascinating’ complexity.

Second-generation Mattia Scarbolo says it’s about the ‘cooperation of cultivars, with each year being a different love story’.

It’s said that wines of quality come from fruit picked at optimal ripeness. As field blend grape varieties have different ripening times, does this still apply?

Good question! Of course, the dream vineyard consists of vines with similar ripening times, but it’s not always the case – even in a monovarietal vineyard. Factoring in such variables as soil and microclimate, optimal ripeness is not achieved across all grape varieties.

Proponents of field blends strive to find that sweet spot, in which underripe berries contribute nerve and acidity, and overripe ones add complexity and body. Yet, while there are many high-quality field blends being made, this is one aspect of them that deserves further exploration.

Do field blend wines help environmental resilience?

Yes. Historically, field blend vineyards came about in part because farmers were hedging their bets against disease and adverse vintage conditions. This is still an important consideration for producers of field blends today.

David Gates of Ridge Vineyards notes that diversity in the vineyard fosters resilience because different varieties contribute different strengths.

So we should seek out field blends?

These wines tell the story of a unique vineyard, through a kaleidoscope of different grapes. This diversity can offer a wine of unexpected thrill and complexity, balance and regional character.

It’s a great one to add to your wine discovery list.

Marisa Finetti selects four field blends worth seeking out

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Cap Classique, South Africa’s signature sparkling wine, has plenty to offer wine lovers. Made in the same way as Champagne, with a secondary fermentation in bottle, Cap Classique costs a fraction of the price, with an array of styles to choose from.

Admittedly Cap Classique has a much shorter history than Champagne. It was first made at Simonsig in 1971 by the late Frans Malan, who dubbed his traditional-method brut sparkling wine Kaapse Vonkel – or Cape Sparkle.

At a time when most of the country’s fizz was cheap, sweet and carbonated, the sophisticated style of Kaapse Vonkel stood out. But it would be another decade until a second South African winery – Boschendal – also decided to make a dry traditional-method sparkler in the 1980s.

The style gained momentum gradually. As producers began to share knowledge and ideas, the name Méthode Cap Classique was adopted to identify their premium product. The Cap Classique Producers Association (CCPA) was founded in 1992.

Although Cap Classique only celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2021, it has been one of South Africa’s fastest-growing wine categories in recent years.

What is Cap Classique?

The CCPA has a series of guidelines for production of Cap Classique, which can be made anywhere in the Cape winelands. First, the wine must ferment on its lees in the same bottle that it will be sold in. Second, that period of lees ageing must be for a minimum of 12 months (though it is often longer for top wines).

Since the 2023 harvest whole-bunch pressing is mandatory. The CCPA also requires its members to use only the first 450 litres of juice from pressing 1,000kg of grapes to make their top expressions. That figure rises to 600 litres for simpler styles.

The main styles of Cap Classique are defined by their residual sugar levels. Brut must have below 12g per litre of residual sugar, Extra Brut below 6g/L and Brut Nature below 3g/L.

Perhaps surprisingly there are no legal restrictions on permitted grape varieties for Cap Classique. While the CCPA recommends the classic Champagne varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – other grapes including Chenin Blanc and Pinotage are used.

Names to know

Although Cap Classique can be made across South Africa, certain regions have become known for their quality. The hardened limestone soils of Robertson produce elegant Chardonnay-led Cap Classiques, assisted by cooling ocean breezes, funnelled by the Langeberg and Riviersonderend mountains.

Other names to look out for on labels are: Elgin, Darling, Durbanville, Overberg, Plettenberg Bay and Walker Bay. These cooler regions are a good source for the Pinot Noir used in Cap Classique blends.

While pioneering wineries Simonsig and Boschendal continue to make Cap Classique, they are no longer lone rangers. The CCPA has grown from just 14 founding members in 1992 to more than 100 today.

What differentiates them on a global stage? The minimum of 12 months lees ageing for Cap Classique positions it neatly between the nine-month minimum for French crémant or Spain’s Cava and the 15-month minimum for non-vintage Champagne.

Not as cheap as Prosecco, but cheaper than Champagne or English sparkling wine, Cap Classique is a style of fizz that hugely over-delivers for the price. If you want to explore the category, here are some good value recommendations chosen by the Decanter team…

Best Cap Classique: value picks

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When Ken Forrester took over the abandoned vineyard of Scholtzenhof in 1993, it was a change of lifestyle for a man who had spent the better part of three decades in hotel management.

Relocating his wife and young family, he renamed the estate Ken Forrester Vineyards and began the work of restoring the property, located to the west of the Helderberg mountain in Stellenbosch.

Among the lands attached to the Cape Dutch homestead were two old Chenin Blanc vineyards, one planted in 1970 and one in 1974, and the work began to rehabilitate them after years of neglect and turn their old vine fruit into wine.

By the time Nelson Mandela was elected in 1994, Chenin Blanc covered over 32,000 hectares of the Cape.

Planted extensively by the national co-operative winery, KWV, it had been the most important white grape for South Africa since the 1950s, mostly grown for distillation into Cape brandy.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for a retrospective of The FMC

The trendsetter

By 1994 many of the vineyards were mature and well-adapted to local conditions. Chenin became an important focus for experimentation and ambition in the years following the end of segregation.

In the hands of winemakers such as Eben Sadie, Chris Alheit and Chris and Andrea Mullineux it has been instrumental in building the reputation of the Cape for world-class wines.

But before any of those esteemed names, and before Swartland was seriously prospected for fine wine, there was Ken Forrester and the Chenin Blanc known as The FMC, a wine from Stellenbosch that can be credited with putting fine South African Chenin Blanc on the map.

Produced from 2000, The Forrester Meinert Chenin was a collaboration between Ken Forrester and winemaker Martin Meinert, who had previously worked at Simonsig and Vergelegen.

Aiming high

From the beginning, the goal was to make a high quality, attention-grabbing wine that could sell at a premium price.

‘I knew The FMC was good, but it was hard to convince people in those days that you could make a really good Chenin Blanc,’ Forrester recalls.

‘I looked at the price of the most expensive white wine in South Africa and said, “That’s my benchmark.” We went to the first Independent Winemakers Guild auction in 2000 in South Africa and we sold at that price, which was a wonderful validation of the wine.’

The FMC was squarely aimed at a premium market: fine wine buyers, collectors and sommeliers — in short, the people who appreciated the great, age-worthy white wines of France.

But it wasn’t inspired by those wines. Unlike the South African Chardonnays which looked towards Burgundy, Forrester says, ‘I never wanted to look or be like anybody or anything else. I wanted the wine to carve a path of its own. It was about maximum extract and maximum agility, balance and elegance at the same time.’

Twenty years down the line

In July, at The OWO at London’s Raffles Hotel, journalists and sommeliers assembled to taste through 20 years of this Cape icon.

Every wine was sourced from the farm, and each vintage poured from magnum accompanied by a range of exquisite dishes from Mauro’s Table.

Introducing the wines, Forrester described them as ‘my lifetime’s work,’ starting with 2020, which unfortunately wasn’t in perfect condition, and ending with the superb 2003.

The fruit sources and winemaking have barely changed. Before 2016 the fruit was sourced solely from the 1974 vineyard, which was planted as bush vines, with the trellised 1970 site only contributing fruit from the 2016 harvest onwards.

Each year The FMC is made with bunch selection in the vineyard across multiple picks, whole-bunch pressing, wild yeast fermentation and ageing in 400 litre French oak.

Some refinements have taken place over time. There’s less work with the lees than in the early days, giving a leaner, tighter aspect to the wine.

The time in barrel has also dropped since the earliest vintages, and the number of picks in the vineyard have increased from four in 2003 to eight in 2020, to target more precise ripeness in the bunches.

Sometimes there’s a little residual sugar, but it is often balanced by the acidity and integrated during bottle-ageing so that the wines feel dry, but rich, with some honey and mushroom flavours from botrytis.

Steering towards the future

As with all retrospectives, questions about the future direction of the wines and the farm are inevitable.

In May 2023 Shawn Mattyse, a born-and-bred South African, was officially appointed winemaker at Forrester Vineyards after nine years with the farm, and he is increasingly taking over the making of the wines.

‘He’s going to make some waves,’ Forrester says. ‘He’s got his hand on the tiller; I’m just the old codger who makes his life miserable from time to time.’

Whatever the coming decades bring for Forrester Vineyards, the future of the most important Chenin Blanc in modern Cape winemaking history isn’t in doubt.

‘The FMC is definitely an ongoing project. It will continue,’ Ken assures us.

Looking back at The FMC:

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There’s never been a better time for wine lovers to visit Cape Town in South Africa. Critical acclaim for the oldest New World wine region has kept on gaining momentum since renowned vineyard manager and viticultural consultant Rosa Kruger made her benchmark presentation of the Cape’s most exceptional old-vine wines at the 2013 London Masters of Wine seminar on old vines.

South Africa’s new generation of winemakers are embracing a forensic approach to site selection, better viticultural practices, greater restraint in the cellar and experimenting with more diverse grape varieties. As a result, the country’s wine scene is evolving into ‘one of the most exciting on the planet’ as Decanter contributor Tim Atkin MW wrote in his 2023 South Africa Special Report. In that same report 201 South African wines scored 95 points and above.

But South Africa’s strength – namely that its geographical diversity provides an intensely varied terroir – also makes it challenging to get to grips with its vinous character. Set aside a week or two, trawling farms and estates, and you’ll certainly experience manifold tasting experiences. But with 30 distinct districts and some 100 smaller wards sprawled over 800km across the country, you’ll only ever experience a fraction of what’s on offer.

Thankfully there are easier ways to tour – involving nothing more arduous than taking a seat and listening to the patter of a well-informed Cape Town sommelier as they pour a broad and well-curated selection of wines. With the value of every major foreign currency steadily rising relative to the rand, world-class wining and dining in this splendidly beautiful city is incredibly good value, particularly in winter, when just about every restaurant in town is running a special. Come summer, even fine dining is still a relative bargain, but tables may be hard to come by. It’s best to research and book online soon after you’ve purchased the airfare.

Here then are Cape Town’s best fine dining restaurants for unbiased wine pairings, informal bistros with great wine lists and dedicated wine bars selected for the excellence of their wines by the glass. The two Stellenbosch inclusions are worthy of the 45-minute cab ride. They are all part of what I suggest should be an integrated research trip. A flutter on a pretty sure fire return. Because it’s a generally accepted fact that South Africa’s wines are undervalued and underrated. Prices will inevitably rise as they are increasingly appreciated, not to mention a potential rally of the rand. See you at one of the following – soon.

Fine dining

Aubergine

Ask Eben Sadie – one of South Africa’s most venerated winemakers – which restaurant has the best wine list and he doesn’t hesitate. Aubergine opened in 1996, but chef-owner Harald Bresselschmidt had been collecting wines prior to that date. Today his restaurant has one of the most extensive, diverse wine collections in the city. No wonder Aubergine was the deserved recipient of the inaugural Star Wine List Grand Prix South Africa in 2022. Cuisine is relatively old-school; from a dining point of view it has been overtaken by any of the names below. But for many the pleasure is the cosy comfort of being shown to your table in a converted 19th century home and being guided by sommelier Ralph Reynolds through the treasure trove that is Bresselschmidt’s cellar.

Insider tip: Indicative of Bresselschmidt’s quirky curation, Aubergine has the full Fleur du Cap Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Collection 1986. These Cabernets were made from the same grapes and fermented the same way, but matured for 24 months in five different oak barrels: Nevers, Allier, Limousin, Spanish and North American. The sixth wine is a blend of those five.

39 Barnet Street, Gardens, +27 21 465 000

Dusk

Chefs Callan Austin and Darren Badenhorst and sommelier Bafana Zondo provide an 11-course menu paired with interesting wines sourced from across the Western Cape. Combinations include Wildeberg The Tea Leaf – a blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Gris and Marsanne from old vineyards planted in 1977 – matched with a trio of amuse-bouches; the delicate floral parmesan rye tuiles showcasing technical skill. Mosi Wine Tinashe Chenin Blanc is made from 38-year-old bush vines by Joseph Dhafana, a Zimbabwean refugee who only tasted his first wine on his 29th birthday. It’s paired with succulent line fish marinated in nasturtium miso, served on a tiny panisse (chickpea fritter) with salmon beurre blanc and roasted almond foam. It’s intimate, it’s fun, service is exceptional and the wine experience is worth the trip to Stellenbosch.

Insider tip: Indicative of Dusk’s playful irreverence is the Pandora’s Box pairing. Guests choose one of six boxes in the wine cellar, each containing its own unique wine pairing – a stretching test of sommelier versatility.

43 Plein Street, Stellenbosch, +27 21 023 4100

FYN

Alongside chefs Peter Tempelhoff and Ashley Moss, Jennifer Hugé is the formidable general manager at FYN, delivering service ‘the way the French intended’ – a well-choreographed dance. French-born Hugé is also at the helm of FYN’s wine cellar, now more than 1,200 bottles strong. She’s a firm proponent of South African wines and talks animatedly about the strides made in the last two decades. ‘More experimental winemaking, more naturally crafted wines, lighter styles that suit our style of food,’ she explains. This lightness – a kaiseki menu merging traditional Japanese culinary methods with South African ingredients – means you leave FYN happily sated but never overstuffed. The first standalone Relais & Châteaux restaurant in Africa, it’s an experience not to be missed.

Insider tip: You need to book months in advance for dinner. If you’ve left it too late, aim for the six-course lunch, which has more availability and only costs R1,375/£59pp. (The eight-course dinner is R1,975/£85pp.) There’s usually a smashing lunch offer in winter – currently R895/£39pp.

5th Floor, Speakers Corner, 37 Parliament Street, City Centre, +27 21 286 2733

La Colombe

Vying with FYN for best fine dining restaurant on the continent, La Colombe currently holds the crown, with the World’s 50 Best judges ranking La Colombe 49th in 2024. Expect extraordinary visual artistry from chef James Gaag. Every course is painstakingly paired by head sommelier Michelle Erasmus, who brings next-level dedication to her position. To keep abreast of the wine world, she runs daily 10.30am on-site tastings with winemakers and producers. She also never buys or orders the same wine twice outside of work – with a few exceptions! Erasmus explains: ‘We try to pair always from our own valley first, but also strive to accurately reflect the identity of individual wine regions in our selection, offering our guests snippets or detailed insights, something they’ll remember during their future wine adventures.’

Insider tip: The additional wine cellar experience, ordered as a supplement, is an exclusive tasting of a vintage auction wine. It will be paired with a dish specially developed for the wine and served in the cellar underneath the restaurant.

Silvermist Wine Estate, Main Road, Constantia Nek, +27 21 794 2390

Salsify

It’s South Africa versus the world (France in particular) at Salsify, with the wine list playing both sides, so to speak. The choice is between local or imported; the same cultivar is paired with each course, for the same cost, indicating the worth placed on South African wines here. Wine aside, you are in for a fantastic evening, seated in one of the oldest buildings in the Cape. Surrounded by Camps Bay’s leafy Glen, with stone pines fringing distant sea views, Salsify is perhaps the most atmospheric dining experience in the city – and the ever-evolving menu by chef-owner Ryan Cole is stellar. Come hungry!

Insider tip: As is the case with La Colombe and FYN, it’s best to book your table shortly after your airline ticket. In summer it’s well worth requesting a table in The Sea Room; in winter a table by the fireplace.

The Roundhouse, Roundhouse Road, Camps Bay, +27 21 010 6444

Bistro dining

Belthazar

When owner Ian Halfon opened Belthazar in 2003 he claimed it was ‘the biggest wine by the glass bar in the world’. Now with more than 250 available by the (Riedel) glass, it’s still a serious contender. Reopening in 2022 after a brief Covid-induced hiatus, Belthazar offers a respite from the Waterfront buzz with slick service and great steaks aged by its in-house master butcher. There are also decadent seafood platters and a range of lighter meals – I’d recommend the grilled calamari. The wine list is easy to navigate, with wines listed by varietal or blend, and region, vintage, style and local Platter rating provided for each one. With Table Mountain views and a shaded terrace, plan for a lazy afternoon.

Insider tip: It’s wonderful to find highly sought-after wines by the glass in the South African Icons section. The selection currently includes Waterford The Jem 2016, Kanonkop Black Label Pinotage 2017, De Trafford Elevation 393 2019, Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2012, Sadie Family Wines Treinspoor 2021 and Mullineux Syrah 2021.

Shop 154, Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town, +27 21 4213753

ëlgr

The name ëlgr – Old Norse for moose – is a nod to chef Jesper Nilsson’s Swedish heritage. It’s a marvellous restaurant choice, even if sommelier Le Roi van de Vyver hadn’t bagged some of South Africa’s most coveted allocation wines. The best are listed on his Sommelier’s Selection list, though even the standard wine list is anything but. For a wine pairing you have to order the Chef’s Choice Sharing Menu, which is very good value at R595/£26pp, with paired wines at R650/£28pp and premium paired wines at R1,045/£45pp. But cobbling together your own meal from the a la carte sharing plates menu is usually more delicious and fun. That’s particularly true if you enjoy vegetarian food, as more than half the menu is made up of dishes such as ‘Aubergine, Sumac, Yoghurt, Pinenuts, Mint, Cumin’; ‘Radicchio, Kale, Romesco, Almonds, Beetroot’; ‘Kohlrabi, Persimmon, Red Wine Soaked Kilimanjaro [a delicious local goat’s cheese], Pine Nut’. But there’s plenty for carnivores too, and while the pizza choices are usually limited to two, they’re two of the best you’ll find in the city.

Insider tip: Look out for the Sommelier’s Selection wines available by the glass – thank you, Corovin. Options include the possibility of ordering a vertical tasting of the 2018, 2020 and 2021 vintages of Alheit Vineyards Cartology.

75 Kloof Street, Gardens, Cape Town, +27 21 422 0384

Grub & Vine

British chef Matt Manning serves very refined bistro-style fare in this intimate candle-lit restaurant. You can order the two- or three-course menu du jour, with two to three options for each. But to experience the breadth of the wine list go all-in with the six-course tasting menu. Pairings can be chosen from either the ‘Culture House Wines’ – a range made specifically for Manning’s wine bar by various winemakers, which are several cuts above your usual house wine – or a selection of ‘Local Legends’. Meanwhile the ‘South Africa vs The World’ selection stacks two wines side-by-side per course. If you prefer to go off-piste, sommelier Keize Mumba will chart the course through Grub & Vine’s awarding-winning wine list. There’s a fantastic selection by the glass, featuring local cult classics as well as up-and-coming talents. Guests also have access to all glasses in the adjacent Culture Wine Bar (see below).

Insider tip: Meet The Makers, an intimate five-course dinner with some of the Cape’s top winemakers, held in a private room, is a regular event well worth looking into (details online). Manning has opened a sister branch of Grub & Vine in the Norval Foundation, Constantia, arguably the city’s top contemporary gallery for African art. Same menu and pairing; free weekly wine tastings on Thursday 6-8pm.

103 Bree Street, Cape Town City Centre, +27 21 216 0035

Judd’s Local

Relative to the other venues featured here, the selection of wines by the glass at Judd’s Local is limited. But the list is good. Describe the kind of wine you like, and your server will return with a couple of alternatives and pour sip-sized samplers until you’re happy with your final choice. Located in a Victorian terrace at the top of bustling Kloof Street, the atmosphere is laid back. Dishes are elevated comfort food; think lamb parcels with slow-braised shredded lamb baked in filo pastry, the richness cut with a tart tomato salad and tzatziki. The Judd’s – a proper brioche bun with a thick grass-fed beef patty basted in a Guinness glaze, topped with crispy bacon, rocket, homemade Guinness mayo and bacon jam – is a benchmark burger.

Insider tip: Get here every Tuesday from 6.30pm for free tastings, hosted by a different winery each week. Owner Bryan Judd is there most days, along with general manager Armandt Rossouw. Both are happy to talk wine – and there’s a wine shop in the bistro for take home bottles.

141 Kloof Street, Gardens, +27 64 527 1272

The Wine Glass

Only The Wine Glass offers an entire menu of horizontal wine flights. Each flight comprises six samples to showcase the Stellenbosch wine region, arranged according to varietal or blend, with a choice of two price points. Service is well organised for scale (and it gets busy in summer): your six glasses are placed on a numbered paper placemat with accompanying printed tasting notes for each flight. It’s a bit more corporate than the intimate wine bars listed below and has a narrower focus on the Cape’s most popular varietals. But it offers an inexpensive and efficient introduction to a far larger array of wines due to the flight menu. Plus there are 130 Stellenbosch wines available by the glass. The unfussy and hearty food is a bit hit and miss – the bobotie spring rolls being the former.

Insider tip: Note that there is also a branch of The Wine Glass in Hermanus offering 96 wines by the glass from the cool-climate Walker Bay region.

13 Ryneveld Street, Stellenbosch, +27 82 555 2332

2 Harbour Rd, Hermanus, +27 82 082 0007

Wine bars

Culture Wine Bar

Hats off to British chef-owner Matt Manning and his sommelier Keize Mumba for winning triple gold in the South Africa section of the 2023 Star Wine List awards: Sparkling Wine List of the Year, Best Medium-Sized List of the Year and overall Grand Prix South Africa. Culture is located on the second floor of a historic building in the heart of Bree Street’s buzzing restaurant scene. With Grub & Vine (see above) adjacent and jazz club Blue Room below, it’s the most sophisticated wine bar in town. It’s certainly the most comfortable too, with leather banquette booths, candles in wax-crusted bottles, yellowwood floors and easy listening music. Add in a great menu of small plates and this could easily be your destination for the night.

Insider tip: Every Wednesday 6-8pm is Vine Night, when a winemaker or wine ambassador visits every table, giving an overview while pouring a flight. You can find details of upcoming sessions online. Culture also has a satellite bar at the Time Out Market in the V&A Waterfront.

103 Bree Street, Cape Town City Centre, +27 21 216 0035

Furny’s Fine Wines & Taste Bar

If you only have time to visit one wine bar, Culture is for serious reconnaissance, but Furny’s is my favourite… A family-owned wine shop, wine bar and restaurant, located in a quaint little complex built into the milkwood forests that carpet the base of Chapman’s Peak, it’s unpretentious and welcoming. You’ll find hippies with their children or dogs seated here alongside tourists pink-cheeked from walking Long Beach. Opt for a flight of any four from over 50 wines available by the glass (R95/£4 for a standard and R180/£8 for a premium selection). Staff are encouraged to assist your choice according to wine style rather than colour or varietal. There are also food and wine pairings if you don’t want to think about what to order. Browse the wine shop for interesting bottles, some of which are long sold-out in the city centre wine boutiques.

Insider tip: There’s a complimentary wine tasting every Friday 4.30-6.30pm; booking for dinner afterwards is recommended. It’s worth noting that Limoncello, an excellent Italian restaurant with great pizzas, is located right next door. If neither is too busy, they will serve you a meal at Furny’s (which will provide cutlery) extending your menu options.

67 Beach Road, Chapman’s Peak, Noordhoek, +27 21 72 455 0184

Leo’s Wine Bar

It’s Max Bagels on Bree from 8am-4pm. But at 5pm every Monday to Saturday ‘Leo’s’ flickers across the signage in pink neon and the wines are lined up. These bottles are all made by lesser-known low-intervention winemakers. Matthew Freemantle, who has dabbled in winemaking himself, opened Leo’s at the end of 2019, white-knuckling his way through COVID-19 to create this popular after-work hangout for locals and wine-loving visitors. It’s small and intimate, making it easy to converse with your pourer – assuming you get there early enough to sit at the counter. If not, join the patrons on the pavement where there is additional seating (though it must be said these stools are less than comfortable).

Insider tip: In 2021 Freemantle and close friend Andrew Kai opened Tomson right next door to Leo’s, offering really good Cantonese-style street food. You can order from Tomson and eat at Leo’s – or vice versa – making this a wine bar experience with an excellent value, top meal. But do get here early to grab a comfortable seat!

Shop 28, De Oude Schuur, 120 Bree Street, Cape Town City Centre, +27 21 76 042 0224

Openwine

Rafael Paterniti and Marta Gobbo opened their wine bar on Wale Street in 2016, a year after Publik (see below) first set the stage for smaller boutique wineries to reach new audiences. Sharing a passion for live music – plus a lack of any kind of wine snobbery – has attracted a cool, predominantly young and very diverse crowd. Openwine gets particularly busy on Sunday evenings from 5pm when it hosts live jazz musicians, and the evening morphs into a funky jam session with local artists and poets pitching in. Paterniti eschews formality – ‘The wine list is on the shelf!’ he quips. But there are usually more than 100 wines to try by the glass, and what’s opened changes weekly. If there’s a particular bottle of interest, the staff will open anything – as long as you’re prepared to buy two glasses of it. According to Paterniti South African white blends are the ones to watch.

Insider tip: You know it’s summer when you drive down Wale Street on a Thursday evening and the pavement outside Openwine is packed. Openlive Thursdays start at 7pm but like the Sunday sessions there is no reservation or entry fee, so get here early if you want to bag a seat.

42 Wale Street, Cape Town City Centre, +27 79 944 2754

Publik Wine Bar

Cape Town’s oldest surviving neighbourhood wine bar attracts the trendiest patrons. It also encapsulates exactly what a wine bar should be: ‘To help people efficiently discover new wines, in an accessible and unpretentious way’. A short wine list – six reds, six whites, three bubblies – showcases new generation winemakers who meet the criteria: ‘Sustainable vineyards; independent; minimal intervention; organic, biodynamic or natural production’. No flights are served, but you can sample-sip a few wines before committing to a full glass. It’s a small space where people sit elbow to elbow, often spilling out onto the pavement. A one-minute stroll and you’re in the bustle of Kloof Street. But great plates are served here, including excellent local cheeses and freshly sliced charcuterie. Wednesdays are steak tartare nights.

Insider tip: There are no reservations and limited seating, so you need to get here early in summer. Opens 4pm on Monday to Friday and at 3pm on Saturday.

11D Kloofnek Road, Tamboerskloof, no phone

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Malu Lambert, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 1 Exceptional and 7 Outstanding.

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Panel tasting scores

43 wines tasted

Exceptional 1

Outstanding 7

Highly recommended 21

Recommended 14

Commended 0

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2017 vintage red wines made from a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, and produced in the Stellenbosch WO district and/or its wards

This tasting showed off the pedigree of Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch, as well as the nuances of its top wards. The quality was high, with about two-thirds of the wines scoring above 90 points.

Cabernet is the most-planted red grape in South Africa (9,110ha in 2023: SAWIS) and the majority of plantings are in Stellenbosch. The differences can be subtle, but each delineated area has its own discernible character. The Outstanding wines were a reflection of this.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting

Key to the region are the many diverse aspects and altitudes created by mountains. The climate here is Mediterranean/maritime. Some wards are closer to the ocean than others – for example, you can see the blue line of the Atlantic from the Helderberg.

Two of the Outstanding wines were from this easterly section. The best wines from here can present with an innate freshness and a fine tannin structure. ‘Powerful and weighty yet still with lift and balance,’ as Andy Howard MW put it.

Also in the east is Jonkershoek, which boasts a core of shale soils surrounded by granite. All of the judges agreed that the Neil Ellis, Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon was ‘fresh, fresh and fresh’ – a hallmark of the area.

The lofty Banghoek also delivered two of the top wines. In the north of Stellenbosch, the vineyards here go up to about 600m. There’s an elegance and perfume to its best offerings, the vines growing on light soils of sandstone and granite. ‘I love the purity,’ said Roger Jones.

In contrast, a wine from the more ‘muscular’ Simonsberg in the [even further] north also caught our attention. High altitudes here and the high diurnal temperature range and sunlight exposure can imbue ‘depth and freshness’, according to Jones.

Meanwhile Bottelary in the northwest (one Outstanding wine) is generally considered a ‘sunnier’ part of Stellenbosch, meaning the wines here can be fruit-forward and powerful.

See all the wines from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting

Greater elegance

‘I found the 2017 vintage very impressive and balanced,’ remarked Howard. ‘South African Cabernet wasn’t always as elegant as this. There was [previously] a bit too much oak, and a smoky character.’

An analysis of the wines proves his point: alcohols are moderate for most and the trend is to use less new oak. ‘This vintage is a level up,’ agreed Jones.

Before the drought hit in 2018, the 2017 vintage benefited from the drying conditions. There was very little disease pressure and Cabernet saw uniform ripening with an extended growing season.

Moderate temperatures and cool evenings in February preserved acidity and phenolic ripeness. Yields were lower than usual; however, this ensured greater concentration.

‘South Africa is putting New World Cabernet Sauvignon back onto the map,’ declared Jones. He added that along with Stellenbosch, Margaret River in Western Australia’s and Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand ‘are all pushing for elegance, fruit and restraint’.

There’s also qualitative value to consider. ‘The wines are excellent and are generally mid-priced,’ he said.

‘Although I am hesitant to compare…’ concluded Howard, ‘I would say fine Bordeaux are the nearest to Stellenbosch’s refined style. There’s plenty of interest and many of the 2017s can be cellared until 2035.’

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Malu Lambert is a widely published wine writer based in South Africa. A taster for Platter’s Guide and judge on various panels, she won Emerging Wine Writer of the Year at the 2019 Louis Roederer Wine Writers’ Awards.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge, ambassador and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.

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Abrie Beeslaar has been winemaker at the iconic Kanonkop Estate in Stellenbosch for 23 years. His achievements during this time included making South Africa’s first ever 100-point wine. He will be stepping back from Kanonkop in November to focus on his own label, Beeslaar Wines, which he founded with his wife in 2011. 

‘I’m leaving a great team behind at Kanonkop. The talent is there, the commitment, the love for the property and the brand – so that’s I think the most important thing. That’s also the same reason why we haven’t decided to appoint somebody outside the business; to keep that momentum going and keep that passion going. I think it was a positive decision.

‘It’s not that I said, “Listen, I want to go!” Because you don’t stay at a place for 23 years and not enjoy it. Kanonkop will always have a piece of my heart and I don’t think I will ever be not interested in what’s going on.

‘When I was young I wanted to do medicine and then I couldn’t get into medical school. They said go study agriculture for a year, then you can reapply. Then within my first year, I did a tasting course. I started to describe this wine and I lost myself a little. People were looking at me as if I was crazy. I realised if I could describe wine like this without any proper education, there must be something there. And that was the first time I really looked at winemaking as a career.

‘In South Africa we are all obsessed with fruit and it can be a bit negative to a certain extent, because as soon as people pick up that they’re drinking a South African wine there’s a certain association. I like to create a certain style that’s much more international – when you taste the wine you reckon it might be Burgundy, it doesn’t need to necessarily taste South African or even New World. I find that style to be respected much more widely through the world… you want to have the widest possible audience for your wine.

‘The environment that you’re in plays such a big role in enjoying a wine. We’ve had amazing times on the beach: we will cook crayfish right there on the beach with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc – and people will laugh if they hear me say Sauvignon Blanc because I don’t drink Sauvignon Blanc – but that just feels right for the occasion!

‘The reason for going is just that I needed to give myself room to grow my own wine. Kanonkop is becoming too big and is still growing aggressively so there wasn’t really room.

‘I love drinking the wines that we can’t produce in South Africa. The first thing that comes to mind is proper German Riesling. You know we can’t duplicate that!

‘Joy Division, the Pixies and that type of music was big in the years when I grew up and I still listen to it nowadays. When I drive my son to school and we want to get a bit worked up, we listen to Guns N’ Roses and AC/DC.

‘In my whole life at Kanonkop I have only worked with granite soils. So the expression of Pinotage [on granite] I knew exactly what it was. But then [at Beeslaar Wines] I started to work with a vineyard that had shale soils and with the shale, all of a sudden you had all this perfume and red fruit and beautiful expression of the varietal.

‘Pinotage and game go so well together. Especially if it’s a 10-year-old Pinotage, the black fruit has settled a little bit, it’s opening up, with some tomato cocktail notes coming out – that with some game is amazing. Kudu specifically I like and springbok we eat quite a bit of.

‘One of the biggest challenges we have in South Africa is that people still perceive South African wine as value for money. Before sanctions South Africa was much better aligned internationally price wise, but we got stuck for that amount of time: just selling locally, not having increasing prices, falling behind with the exchange rate. That’s really affected the positioning until today.

‘The main thing at Kanonkop is to keep the consistency of the style. Keep on refining but don’t change dramatically, just because you want to leave a thumbprint. One of the most important things when I started there was that they told me I didn’t have to win any competitions. So that allows you to make the wine you want to make – not what the market wants you to make.

‘At Beeslaar Wines I’ve got a long term relationship with the grower for the fruit. But I’m very involved with what’s going on in the vineyards. There’s a lot of new techniques that we are trying, especially to get the plants to get older. When I studied it was fierce with pruning and that had a negative effect on the longevity of the plant. So we’ve got some Italian consultants helping us to create a plant that can get older and also focus on what they call “live wood”. So it means that you have stronger shoots with more even bunches and consistency in your plant, which is fantastic.

‘From next year, I’ll probably do a second wine as well. It might be a lighter style Bordeaux blend, it might be a Cape Blend or it might be a straight Pinotage. I haven’t decided yet.’

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Contrary to popular belief – and if the 20 wines selected here are anything to go by – you can taste terroir through the lens of a blend. In South Africa’s case, white cuvées are the most transparent, with imaginative winemakers building a picture of place from a range of different grapes, sites and techniques.

For the tasting to make this selection, I called in white blends from across the country and ended up sampling more than 60 examples, most of which scored above 90 points.

Scroll down for notes and scores Malu’s favourite South African white blends

The main categories

South Africa’s white blends can be broadly divided into three categories. First, the Bordeaux-style Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends, made using traditional ‘protective’ techniques and ingredients, such as chilled grapes, anaerobic fermentation and cultured yeasts. These wines are steadily improving in quality but are sadly often overlooked, as consumers are more inclined towards straight Sauvignon Blanc.

The cooler regions of Constantia, Durbanville, Elgin and Elim all make superb renditions, as does the greater Stellenbosch region, from sites with moderating influences such as ocean breezes and higher altitudes.

Then there are the ‘Cape whites’, although there’s some controversy over how these are defined. Most postulate that Chenin Blanc – the nation’s most-planted grape (16,192 hectares in 2023, according to data from SAWIS, with Sauvignon Blanc second at 10,028ha) – should form the majority of the blend.

Premium examples often showcase other heritage grapes, too. Most of South Africa’s old vines are white, a happy hangover from the early days of local brandy production. Chenin, Colombard, Palomino, Semillon and Clairette Blanche were all originally planted for the spirits industry. In wines today, these grapes are often blended with white Rhône varieties that have found a home in the Cape’s Mediterranean climate and preponderance of granitic soils.

Overall excellence

There are South African winemakers who would rather not be prescribed to, and that brings us to the third category: the wildcards, such as field blends. Hemelrand Vine Garden is a good example. In 2010, Chris Alheit, co-owner and winemaker at Alheit Vineyards, and grower Hans Evenhuis created a vineyard in the marginal Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge region by interplanting Chardonnay, Roussanne, Verdelho, Chenin Blanc and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains.

‘The wine will naturally change every vintage,’ says Alheit. ‘I’m intrigued by the genetic evolution of the original cultivars that landed in the country. That’s what’s unique to South Africa.’

A common factor aligning the more niche bottlings is interesting, low-yielding vineyards. These vineyards may be small, but their stories are writ large, such as the multi-regional Rocking Horse blend made by John Seccombe at Thorne & Daughters.

‘I was loosely inspired by wines like Gérard Gauby’s Vieilles Vignes Blanc,’ he explains, referring to the traditional blend of old-vine Macabeu, Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay and other varieties from Roussillon in southwest France. ‘It’s a wine that struck me as having a sense of place while also being inimitable.’

The most successful wines of the tasting were largely Chenin-led, blended with a mix of heritage grapes and Rhône varieties. With many of these, in contrast to the Bordeaux-style blends, winemakers were more experimental – using natural ferments, skin contact and a wide mix of maturation vessels, such as amphorae, concrete and varying sizes of old oak.

The overall excellence of the wines made it tough to select just 20. However, my top wines reflect not only a range of terroirs and styles, but also the energy and dynamism of some of South Africa’s most forward-thinking producers.

Malu Lambert’s top 20 South African white blends

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Stellenbosch is in many ways the nerve centre of South African wine. The country’s largest and second-oldest wine region, it’s home to Stellenbosch University, where many of the country’s winemakers honed their craft. It’s the birthplace of the country’s signature Pinotage, where the country’s first wine route was established in the 1970s – and where many of South Africa’s most revered wines are made.

So it came as no great surprise when, after crunching the numbers following Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 judging in May, that a mini-galaxy of stellar performances for the region’s producers was revealed. In addition to 77 Silver and 17 Gold medals there were two Best in Show awards as well as a standout Value Gold for an unusual (in this part of the world, at least) grape variety.

Just 50 wines were awarded Best in Show this year, accounting for 0.28% of the total wines tasted. The two Stellenbosch wines (both 97 points) were of very different styles: one a red Bordeaux blend, the other a varietal Chardonnay, from two neighbouring wards – Simonsberg-Stellenbosch and Banghoek.

So, how important is terroir? ‘It’s crucial,’ said Regional Chair for South Africa, Fiona McDonald.

‘We’re seeing producers become very focussed on only making wines that are suited to their particular conditions and locale. Where two or three decades ago they were trying to be all things to all people, they are now sticking to their knitting – so to speak! And that’s why there’s a growing recognition for the fact that Stellenbosch and Cabernet Sauvignon work well. The same is true for Chardonnay. South Africa has form for both.’

The Cabernet connection

Stellenbosch’s reputation is based largely (along with Pinotage) on Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. About 20% of Stellenbosch’s vineyard area is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and about 12% to Merlot, and the region is frequently compared to Napa and Bordeaux – so it’s fitting that Best in Show winner Tokara, Reserve Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2021 is a Cab-dominant blend: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% Petit Verdot and the remainder Malbec.

‘Splendidly deep in colour and has sophisticated aromas that take the drinker well beyond blackcurrant towards plum, bramble and damson, with sumptuous incense spices lending a little exotic lustre,’ is how the panel described the Tokara blend, noting that, ‘the winemaking here puts the emphasis on drinkability with detail.’

Stuart Botha, who joined Tokara as winemaker in 2017 at the relatively young age of 32, describes Cabernet as ‘our focus red variety’. It comprises 65% of Tokara’s vineyard plantings. ‘Tokara is placed on the mid-slope of the Simonsberg mountain, the most important piece of topography in Stellenbosch,’ he said.

‘Here, on 400-million-year-old granitic soils, we planted various clone/rootstock combinations of Cabernet Sauvignon.’ The aim, Botha said, is ‘the expression of Cabernet that benefits from a unique terroir, but also leans towards a new world and bolder style. This stylistic goal supports the use of small-format French oak, with a 59% new-barrel component. That the wine effortlessly laps up and integrates this wood is testament to its power and pedigree.’

No fewer than nine of Stellenbosch’s 17 Gold medals were awarded to Cabernet or Cab-dominant blends. Among these were three from Stark-Condé Wines, including two from Jonkershoek Valley ward (Stark-Condé Three Pines Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (96 points) and Oude Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (95 points)), plus another wine from Delaire Graff for its Botmaskop 2021 (95 points) and from Ernie Els’ Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (95 points).

The Chardonnay card

Compared to Cabernet, Chardonnay is a relative newcomer to Stellenbosch – the oldest Chardonnay vines in the region were planted in the mid-1980s – but the quality is very high. The panel noted ‘just how happy this variety is in the Cape and particularly in Stellenbosch.’

Best in Show winner Delaire Graff Estate, Chardonnay, Banghoek, Stellenbosch 2022 impressed with its ‘combination of fresh, nectarine-and-peach fruit with understated creaminess’, said judges. ‘It’s vivid, sheeny and lively in the mouth: a beautifully crafted mixture of secondary complexities with primary charm.’

Winemaker Morné Very established the Estate’s winemaking team at Delaire Graff Estate over 15 years ago, after working in France, New Zealand and across South Africa. Banghoek’s maritime microclimate, he said, ‘moderates temperatures and creates an environment conducive to the production of elegant, nuanced wines. The unique terroir, with its combination of altitude, exposure and climate creates an ideal setting for wines of exceptional quality and character.’

Hand-selected fruit is whole-bunch pressed, fermented then matured in small French oak barrels for 10 months, resulting in a wine that Vrey describes as ‘multifaceted, with refinement and elegance’. Of the Best in Show win, he said, ‘It demonstrates that Stellenbosch Chardonnay can compete with the finest wines from renowned Chardonnay-producing regions such as California and Burgundy.’

Two other Stellenbosch Chardonnays won Gold: Bartinney’s Hourglass 2022 (95 points), also from Banghoek, and Oldenburg Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2023 (95 points).

The ‘good value’ equation

‘Simply put, Stellenbosch is the country’s premium wine-producing region,’ says Fiona McDonald – but as the DWWA results show, it’s also a region to look to for value.

All 17 Golds cost less than £50 a bottle and one was a Value Gold (less than £15 a bottle) for Spier’s Signature Collection Albariño 2023, described as having ‘charming Granny Smith and juicy stone fruit characters with a hallmark saline boost; chalky and mineral on the palate with a gorgeous mandarin twist on the finish.’ This wine also made it onto the Top 20 Value Selection – chosen by Co-Chairs after a second-round tasting of Value Golds to confirm the very best.

That ‘good-value’ perception ‘is noteworthy because it highlights that metric of overdelivering on quality at a particular price point,’ said McDonald, but she sounds a note of caution. ‘It’s the perennial battle South African producers fight: the perception that South African wines are good value or even ‘cheap’. Much of that statistic – that they overdeliver at under £50 a bottle – is because of the poor state of the South African rand. With the exchange rate currently around 23 to one, there’s a lot of proverbial ‘bang for your buck’.’

But things are changing. ‘We’re seeing prices rise substantially,’ McDonald added. ‘A lot of that is the result of smaller, non-land owning, boutique producers paying above-the-odds prices for select parcels of grapes – and those grapes are often old vines with yields of just a tonne or two.’

Stellenbosch is as multifaceted as the mountain ranges that hold the region in its surrounding embrace, with high quality across the range, from premium to excellent-value – for now at least. With a mosaic of aspects and soil types and a tightening focus on terroir and quality, there are rich pickings for wine lovers of all stripes.

DWWA 2024: Best of Stellenbosch

Delaire Graff Estate, Banghoek Chardonnay 2022

97 Best in Show

This is the eighth South African white to win a place in our Best In Show selection. Vin de Constance has featured twice and old-vine Chenin Blanc once – but all the other laureate winners have been Chardonnay, underlining just how happy this variety is in the Cape and particularly in Stellenbosch (it’s our third Stellenbosch Chardonnay winner). Green-gold in colour, this wine particularly impressed judges with its combination of fresh, nectarine-and-peach fruit with understated creaminess. It’s vivid, sheeny and lively in the mouth: a beautifully crafted mixture of secondary complexities with primary charm. This supremely adaptable wine would almost be as good without food as with, thanks to those comely summer fruits. No need, either, to cellar it if you don’t have that option, though it will certainly respond well to half-a-decade’s cool rest. Alcohol 13.5%

Tokara, Reserve Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

97 Best in Show

This intriguing Bordeaux blend from the Cape’s Stellenbosch (Cabernet with, in this case, a little Petit Verdot and Malbec but no Merlot) is splendidly deep in colour and has sophisticated aromas which take the drinker well beyond blackcurrant towards plum, bramble and damson, with sumptuous incense spices lending a little exotic lustre. It’s deep and shows complex fruits on the palate which engage and carry the wine engagingly through to the finish. A juicy acidity provides the principle balancing note, with supple supporting tannins. The winemaking here puts the emphasis on drinkability with detail; there’s no need to age this accessible, agile wine any further (though the quality of the raw materials will carry it through time, too). Alc 14.5%

Search all award-winning wines from Stellenbosch

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With 23 harvests at Kanonkop Estate under his belt, winemaker Abrie Beeslaar has become synonymous with the Stellenbosch estate. So it was no surprise that his decision to leave, announced in January this year, made the headlines.

‘It was, and still is, very difficult,’ Beeslaar told Decanter at the time, about his decision. Six months on, the groundwork has been more firmly laid for his succession at Kanonkop, where he is not being replaced by an outsider.

Instead the existing team at Kanonkop will continue the winemaking, with Francois Van Zyl stepping into the role of senior winemaker, alongside winemakers Christelle Van Niekerk and Ruan Van Schalkwyk. Suzaan Krige, daughter of Paul Krige, who owns Kanonkop with his brother Johann Krige, will also be joining the team as assistant winemaker.

‘I’m leaving a great team behind,’ said Beeslaar. ‘The talent is there, the commitment, the love for the property and the brand –so that’s I think the most important thing. That’s also the same reason why we haven’t decided to appoint somebody outside the business; to keep that momentum going and keep that passion going. I think it was a positive decision,’ he added.

Beeslaar will be officially stepping away from Kanonkop at the end of November. ‘By November most of the vineyards are pruned already, all of that work is done. November’s a good date,’ he explained.

But he will still be staying close to the winery in an ongoing consultancy role. ‘It’s not that I said, “Listen, I want to go!” Because you don’t stay at a place for 23 years and not enjoy it. Kanonkop will always have a piece of my heart and I don’t think I will ever be not interested in what’s going on,’ he said.

‘The reason for going is just that I needed to give myself room to grow my own wine,’ he continued. ‘Kanonkop is becoming too big and is still growing aggressively so there wasn’t really room.’ Under Beeslaar, production at Kanonkop increased from 300,000 bottles to three million.

Established in 2011, his personal project Beeslaar Wines is a smaller operation, currently focusing only on Stellenbosch Pinotage and Chardonnay. Beeslaar sources fruit from growers, using four plots for Chardonnay, but just one site for Pinotage. The latter represents a radical departure from his work at Kanonkop, as the vineyard is shale.

‘In my whole life I have only worked with granite soils. So the expression of Pinotage on [granite] I knew exactly what it was. But then with the shale, all of a sudden you had all this perfume and red fruit and beautiful expression of the varietal,’ he said.

There are currently 10 vintages of Beeslaar Pinotage in the market. But there are plans to extend the red range. ‘I’m starting a Bordeaux blend that will be released at the end of this year, beginning of next year. It’s 2022 vintage and has already been bottled,’ he said, adding that the new wine does not have a name yet.

‘Then from next year, I’ll probably do a second wine as well. It might be a lighter style Bordeaux blend, it might be a Cape Blend or it might be a straight Pinotage. I haven’t decided yet.’ Watch this space…

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Within the last three decades, South Africa’s wine industry has undergone a revitalisation, embracing innovation and exploration as key pillars of its growth. From the past era of grape production aimed at bulk and brandy, to the wines of today that stand with some of the best globally, South Africa’s white wines are at the forefront.

Chenin Blanc, one of the Cape’s headline varieties, has long been renowned in South Africa’s white wine scene. However, as evidenced by recent years’ Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) results, and echoing South Africa’s ongoing commitment to quality and development, there’s much more to explore.

Scroll down to discover 15 South African white wines from DWWA 2023

The diversity of white wines awarded top ratings at the competition continues to expand, ranging from world-class Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon, to Rhône-style and proprietary blends.

The range of regions these wines come from is widening, too. From cool-climate Elgin in the Cape South Coast – standing out for its exceptional expressions of Chardonnay – to hot, dry Western Cape’s Citrusdal Mountain – benefiting from altitude to deliver fresh and exemplary whites – South African wine producers are delivering noteworthy whites, with the likelihood of further expressions emerging in the future.

Below discover 15 greats from the 2023 competition, with more to seek out at awards.decanter.com

Savouring South Africa: A guide to great white wines

Elgin

Iona, Elgin Highlands Chardonnay 2021

Best in Show, 97 points

£22.99-£27.95 Bush Vines, Latitude, Thorne Wines, Vin Cognito, Winoship

Lean, shapely, intense: a cool waterfall of fruits sweep seamlessly over the tongue. Drinkability, refreshment and a unique regional style come together with aplomb, and the 11 months’ oak provide an aromatic backdrop. Alcohol 12.8%

Neil Ellis, Whitehall Chardonnay 2021

Platinum, 97 points

£27.95-£31.95 (2020) Cellar Door Wines, Cheers, South Downs Cellars

An enrapturing sea breeze freshness cascades over pure peach, zingy pineapple and lemon curd with a persistent tension of racy acidity. Youthful and spirited with a moreish, lemongrass-infused finish. Exceptional. Alc 13%

Lothian, Chardonnay 2021

Gold, 96 points

£26-£30 (2020) All About Wine, Corking Wines, Hic, The Wine Rooms Cambridge, WineTrust

Poised and focused with searing notes of salted lemon, tangy lime and Granny Smith apple, nuanced with textured smoky oak and a flinty mineral tension. Alc 13.5%

Paul Cluver, Seven Flags Chardonnay 2021

Gold, 95 points 

£58-£64 Christopher Piper, Frontier Fine Wines, Winoship

A flourish of white blossom, peach and mango dance on a creamy base of oatmeal and cashew oak, with a salty minerality and twist of lime cutting through. Alc 13.5%

Cape Town

Diemersdal, The Journal Sauvignon Blanc, Durbanville 2022

Platinum, 97 points

£27 Laithwaites

Beguiling aromas of elderflower, herbaceous verbena, white peach and apricot with a gorgeous, mouthcoatingly taut ruby grapefruit core and a fresh line of salty acidity. Incredibly well-defined and refreshing with a long, vivid finish. Alc 13.5%

Coastal Region

Bellingham, The Founders Series Freda 2021

Platinum, 97 points

bellinghamwines.com

Vivacious lime zest, green mango and apple encased in layers of fragrant herbs and courgette flowers, beautifully aligned with the creamy banana bread texture and nourishingly supportive oak. Luxurious and bewitching, with a cleansing saline finish. Alc 13.5%

Boschendal, Chenin Blanc 2022

Value Gold, 95 points

£9.75 Tesco

Honeyed sundried peach aromas with notes of nectarine, orange rind and ripe pear. Textured and creamy with a broad structure and a singing saline finish. Alc 13%

Escapades, Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Gold, 95 points

escapadewinery.com

Waxy aromas of lemon rind, ripe red apple, tangerine, lime oil and fresh stone fruit. Impeccably balanced with racy acidity and a creamy texture. Ageing beautifully. Alc 13.5%

Stellenbosch

Capensis, Silene Chardonnay 2021

Gold, 96 points

£28.50 (2020) Fareham Wine Cellar

Bursting with ripe peach, pear and pineapple, this has an expressive vanilla bean oak intensity and a lively tension from the lemon acidity. Long, herbaceous and fulfilling style. Alc 14%

Bartinney, Hourglass Chardonnay, Banghoek 2021

Gold, 95 points

£42.45-£44.60 Humble Grape, Port2Port

Simmering with fruit salad energy atop a mellow custard tart creaminess. Classy and vibrant with a joyous fluidity and an enriching savoury tone to the finish. Alc 13.5%

Rustenberg, Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2022

Value Gold, 95 points 

£14-£15 Frontier Fine Wine, Majestic, Selfridges, Vinvm

Enchanting clementine zest, grapefruit and green grass with a flinty focus and refined acidity cutting through the mellow creamy texture. Long, poised and impressive. Alc 13%

Tokara, Director’s Reserve 2020

Gold, 95 points

£24.50-£32 Alexander Hadleigh, Hedonism, Pull the Cork, The Wine Reserve, Vinvm

Alluring orange, grapefruit, kiwi fruit and nectarine lead into a full palate that seamlessly integrates savoury oak alongside full, mouthcoating fruit of an almost viscous intensity. Alc 13.5%

Citrusdal Mountain

Piekenierskloof, Grenache Blanc, Piekenierskloof 2022

Value Gold, 95 points

£12-£16 Cellar Door Wines, Stone Vine & Sun, The Fine Wine Co

Bewitching plump stone fruit, yellow apple, quince and ginger spice with a taut tang of acidity and a classy gravel note. Wonderfully harmonious and long. Alc 13%

Breedekloof

Quest, Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022

Gold, 95 points

dtkwines.com

Billowing with white blossom, crisp citrus and stone fruit, building momentum to a mouthcoatingly creamy palate engulfed in a subtle frame of baking spice and quince. Alc 12.5%

Western Cape

Nederburg, The Winemasters Chardonnay 2022

Value Gold, 95 points

£10.55-£12 Biltong St Marcus, Fareham Wine Cellar, ND John

Bright and vivacious with lush honeyed apples and a clean citrus crush lifted by steely acidity, with charming creamy cashew notes at the end. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2023 results 

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Soon after he bought his 2 hectare farm in the Polkadraai Hills, renowned South African winemaker Bruwer Raats got talking to another well-known producer on the Helderberg, widely considered one of Stellenbosch’s most prestigious sub-regions. His interlocutor was incredulous. ‘You’re kidding me, right? If the Simonsberg is the head of Stellenbosch and the Helderberg its heart, then the Polkadraai Hills are its arse.’

That conversation took place just 20 years ago. At the time, full-bodied reds were the dominant style in Stellenbosch, preferably based on or made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. South Africa was still in its ‘bigger is better’ phase, although new-wave winemakers were beginning to do other things.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Tim Atkin MW’s top 10 wines from the Polkadraai Hills

Raats saw the potential of the Polkadraai Hills. ‘You can’t make powerful wines on granite,’ he says, referring to the sub-region’s dominant soil type. ‘What I was after was purity, freshness and lower alcohol levels.’ If anything, the region’s poor reputation worked in his favour. ‘It was the cheapest agricultural land in Stellenbosch. I got it for a song.’

Even further ahead of the curve was Jacques Borman. In 1993, he was the distinguished winemaker at La Motte and looking to develop his own brand. The original idea was to buy a piece of land in Franschhoek, near his place of work, but he changed his mind when he tasted a Cabernet Sauvignon from five-year-old vines on the Reyneke farm in the Polkadraai Hills. The grapes were so good that Borman purchased a nearby property and wisely changed its name from the hard-to-pronounce Goedgelegen to Boschkloof.

Today, his son Reenen makes one of the world’s greatest Syrah wines, Epilogue, from that very site. Strictly speaking, Boschkloof is just outside the Polkadraai Hills ward, as it was defined in 2008 when the founder members established its borders, but it’s so close as to be cut from the same stylistic cloth. ‘If we were 500 metres further west, we’d be inside the boundary,’ says Reenen Borman. ‘It’s the same, but different, apparently.’ The good news is that Borman also makes a Syrah under the Sons of Sugarland label that falls within the boundaries of the Polkadraai Hills.

History old & new

Also in the early 1990s, Adrian Bührer, the comparatively new owner of the historic Saxenburg estate, took another brave decision. He planted 33ha of Syrah – thought to have been roughly 10% of South Africa’s entire plantings of Syrah at the time – because he saw the variety’s potential on granite soils in this comparatively cool corner of Stellenbosch. ‘People thought he was crazy,’ says his daughter Fiona. ‘But he planted according to the terroir he saw, not current winemaking trends.’

People have been farming grapes and other things in the Polkadraai Hills for centuries. Jozua Joubert and Danie Carinus, two of the region’s best growers at Karibib and Bluegum Grove respectively, are representatives of the third and sixth generations of their families; the aforementioned Saxenburg planted its first vines in 1707. But in another sense, this is a new and exciting area.

Polkadraai Hills at a glance

Location: West of the town of Stellenbosch, a series of mostly south-facing, undulating hills; False Bay, 14km away, is a significant cooling influence, especially in summer

Elevation: 120m-300m

Appellation: Received ward status in September 2006 – now one of eight officially recognised wards in Stellenbosch

Soils: Predominantly decomposed granite

Area under vine: 800ha (according to Vinpro), of which 140ha are farmed organically or biodynamically

Grape varieties: Mainly Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. Smaller plantings of Cinsault, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc

Producers: 18

Despite its modest size – just 380ha of Stellenbosch’s 12,198ha (SAWIS, 2022) – it’s a key part of the region’s renaissance; a counterpart to the dynamism of the Swartland Revolution at the turn of the millennium, when a group of young winemakers turned a cereal-focused rural backwater into one of the most exciting wine regions in South Africa.

Several of the Cape’s most celebrated winemakers are involved with projects here: Chris Alheit at Carinus Family Wines, Reenen Borman, Jean Smit of Damascene, Rudiger Gretschel at Reyneke, Lukas van Loggerenberg and Bruwer Raats. Throw in other, small projects such as Angus Paul, B Vintners, Bein, Craven and Illimis, and larger ones such as De Toren, Saxenburg and Zevenwacht, and you can understand why the ward is attracting such praise.

Another Cape superstar, Duncan Savage of Savage Wines, is establishing a very densely planted 2.5ha block of Syrah in the upper part of Joubert’s Karibib farm that will produce its first grapes this year. ‘It’s a phenomenal part of Stellenbosch,’ he says. ‘I can’t wait to see what this site gives me. We’ll ferment a demijohn or two and see where we are.’

Elemental exposure

What makes the Polkadraai Hills so special? The decomposed-granite soils for one, but also the cooler climate compared to most other parts of Stellenbosch. ‘We are definitely exposed to every type of element,’ Jozua Joubert told me, as we stood 300m up on a windy slope at the top of his property, looking down towards False Bay.

‘Every afternoon during the growing season, you can feel the southeaster wind pick up. We never go over 40°C in summer. Our winters are moderate, too.’ And then there’s the surrounding renosterveld and fynbos, South Africa’s equivalent of France’s garrigue, whose aromas distinguish some of the region’s best wines, especially its Syrahs.

The quality of the grapes is important, too, not just from the growers who sell to wineries, but from the larger estates that farm their own vineyards. De Toren is organically certified, while Reyneke, run by the charismatic Johan Reyneke, is among the world’s leading biodynamic producers.

In addition, the Polkadraai Hills are what Reyneke calls a ‘hub of all things regenerative and sustainable’. There is also, it must be said, an engaging camaraderie about this small area. I was privileged to do the first-ever group tasting from the Polkadraai Hills and the atmosphere was warm and mutually supportive.

The region is now established as one of Stellenbosch’s eight recognised wards, which is more than can be said for the Helderberg. ‘For all that stuff about being the heart of Stellenbosch, they can’t agree among themselves,’ laughs Bruwer Raats.

Know your vintages: Polkadraai Hills

2021: The closest recent Stellenbosch vintage to the mythical 2009 in terms of weather conditions. Good winter rains, moderate growing-season temperatures, long hang time. An outstanding year for both whites and reds. A Cape classic, highly collectible. Keep.

2019: A game of two halves. Very good for whites and early-ripening red varieties, particularly Cabernet Franc; less good for late-picked ones, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, because of heavy rains in late March. A vintage to drink selectively. Keep the reds.

2017: A brilliant Cape vintage, despite being produced in the middle of a five-year drought. The lack of water notwithstanding, temperatures remained below 30°C in the main. Balanced red wines with polished tannins. Whites are also ageing very well. A vintage to cellar.

2015: Regarded as one of the best vintages of the last decade, although the reds were generally better than the whites. Warmer than 2009, but benefited from the very wet 2014 winter. Reds with very good structure, purity and potential longevity. Drink now or keep.

2009: One of the great vintages in Stellenbosch. A wet winter led to good water reserves. The growing season was moderate, with no heat spikes. Diurnal variation was significant. Good colour in the reds, which have aged well, and acidity in both reds and whites. Drink now

Eight Polkadraai Hills names to know

Angus Paul

Born in South Africa but brought up in Scotland (hence a slight accent), Angus Paul came to Stellenbosch to study. The youngest winemaker in the Polkadraai Hills, he released his first reds and whites as recently as 2021. Working out of the communal Karibib Wine Craft cellar, in his core range he makes five understated, low-intervention wines (as well as a secondary range called Mesas), including one – the intriguingly named On a Flight of Furious Fancies Chenin Blanc – produced with Jozua Joubert’s Karibib grapes from a block planted in the 1980s. anguspaulwines.com

Carinus Family Vineyards

The Carinus family arrived in South Africa from Germany in 1809. Today, cousins Hugo and Danie Carinus are top-quality grape growers with farms in Devon Valley and the Swartland, as well as the Polkadraai Hills. As well as selling to other small winemakers, they produce a range under their own label. Their superb Heuwels Chenin Blanc is made for them by Chris Alheit, arguably the best exponent of the variety in South Africa. carinusvineyards.co.za

De Toren Private Cellar

De Toren is among the Polkadraai Hills’ most prestigious names, thanks in particular to Fusion V, its five-way Bordeaux blend. Using grapes from 22ha of organically certified vineyards, it’s modelled along the lines of a very smart Bordeaux château, blending grapes from 15 soil types. Traditionally among the later pickers in the ward, with corresponding levels of ripeness, the winery has shifted towards a more refined style since 2019 under Martin Fourie and Charles Williams. de-toren.com

Raats Family Wines

The man who has done more than anyone to establish the Polkadraai Hills as a ward of Stellenbosch, Bruwer Raats has also been a key figure in the promotion of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, as well as half of the team behind the icon red MR de Compostella. Alongside his own range (look out for the high-density planted Eden wines from his back garden), Raats makes three further Polkadraai Hills wines under the B(ruwer) Vintners label with his cousin Gavin Bruwer Slabbert. raats.co.za

Reyneke

Johan Reyneke grows some of the best grapes in South Africa, working alongside his beloved cows. He’s a self-styled ‘vine hugger’ who works with biodynamics on 70ha of Demeter-certified vineyards split across the 40ha family farm and adjacent 80ha Vinimark-owned estate, which is devoted entirely to growing grapes for the Reyneke brand (including animal pasture and biodiverse wilderness). Some of the vines date back to 1974. Ably assisted in the cellar by Barbara Melck and Rudiger Gretschel, Reyneke produces balanced, layered, intensely flavoured wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Syrah, as well as a Bordeaux blend called Cornerstone. Everything in the winery’s range is first class. reynekewines.co.za

Saga Vineyards

This newly launched umbrella brand currently includes the wines of Patatsfontein and Sons of Sugarland, and is a joint venture between winemaker Reenen Borman and two of his old college friends, Henk Kotze and Fritz Schoon. Borman also makes wine at Boschkloof, which is owned by his family and produces the Cape’s best Syrah from a vineyard just outside the Polkadraai Hills. Sons of Sugarland Syrah is wunderkind Reenen’s less expensive, unwooded expression from Jozua Joubert’s celebrated Karibib block. It makes a very interesting comparison with the other two wines from the same parcel, most notably his friend and former roommate Lukas Van Loggerenberg’s Graft. sagavineyards.co.za

Saxenburg Wine Estate

One of the biggest vineyard owners in the Polkadraai Hills, with 60ha under vine, Saxenburg is one the oldest properties in Stellenbosch. Located in a cooler part of the ward (the winery also makes an Elgin-style Sauvignon Blanc), Saxenburg specialises in Cabernet Sauvignon and especially Syrah, of which it was a bold pioneer. Vastly improved of late under second-generation owner Fiona Bührer and winemaker Brendan Smith, its Syrah Select is one of the best in the region. saxenburg.co.za

Van Loggerenberg Wines

Since his first vintage in 2016, Lukas van Loggerenberg has rapidly established himself as one of the most exciting Cape producers, making brilliant Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Only one of his 10-product range comes from Polkadraai Hills, but what a wine it is – the Graft Syrah hails from the same Karabib parcel that produces Patatsfontein’s Sons of Sugarland Syrah and most of the Stellenbosch Syrah by Damascene. Graft is a stunning expression of the grape that has rightly drawn positive comparisons with the best of the Rhône valley. vanloggerenbergwines.co.za

See notes and scores for Tim Atkin MW’s top 10 wines from the Polkadraai Hills

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