On April 17, wine lovers will raise a glass of full-bodied red in honour of Malbec’s remarkable rise to prominence. This popular grape was in danger of fading into obscurity in France, but it crossed the globe and reinvented itself as Argentina’s flagship variety. Malbec is now flourishing around the world, from California to China, while it continues to go from strength to strength in its Mendoza heartland.

Why April 17?

On April 17, 1853, President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento of Argentina hatched a plan to modernise the country’s wine industry. He hired French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget, who brought a series of European vine cuttings across the Andes. Pouget experimented with a bunch of French varieties, but it was Malbec that thrived in Argentina’s diverse terroirs.

In 2011, Wines of Argentina launched World Malbec Day to celebrate the anniversary of the grape’s reinvention. It’s a popular event in Argentina, but Malbec World Day has spread around the world, with a busy schedule of tastings and events.

From French châteaux to the Andean foothills

Malbec originated in the French region of Cahors in around 150 AD. It proved popular with Europe’s elites in the Middle Ages, especially with Eleanor of Aquitaine. However, the grape – known locally as Côt – faded in the ensuing centuries. A devastating frost in 1956 then wiped out around three-quarters of France’s Malbec vineyards.

On the other side of the world, Malbec was beginning to shine. In Mendoza’s sun-drenched, high-altitude vineyards, the grape found conditions it could only dream of in France: dry air, intense sunshine, dramatic day-to-night temperature swings and virtually no rot.

Malbec responded by producing deeply coloured wines with velvety tannins, ripe dark berry flavours and its signature floral lift. Today, Argentina is home to around 85% of the world’s Malbec plantings, and the variety’s expressions range from the rich, concentrated reds of Maipú’s older vines to the elegant, mineral-driven wines emerging from the cooler, higher reaches of the Uco Valley and Salta’s vertiginous vineyards.

Scroll down to discover top-scoring Malbec wines from DWWA 2025

A versatile variety

Malbec’s appeal lies in its versatility. The grape delivers approachable, fruit-forward wines at everyday price points, but it can also produce age-worthy wines that perfectly express the local terroir, rivalling the world’s finest reds. It takes beautifully to oak, developing notes of chocolate, vanilla and tobacco, and it also works well in blends.

Beyond Argentina, it continues to thrive in Cahors – where it is enjoying a renaissance – and Malbec is also gaining ground in Chile, Australia and Californian regions like Napa and Paso Robles. They’re even making high-quality Malbec in China’s Ningxia region.

This April 17, whether you opt for a bold Mendoza classic or a brooding Côt from Cahors, pull the cork and raise a glass to one of wine’s great reinventions. Few grapes have travelled so far and come back with such a good story to tell.

Argentina

Durigutti Family Winemakers, Proyecto Las Compuertas 5 Suelos, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Multitudes of cherries, blackberries, plums and blueberries entangled in a lavish sage and lavender fragrance. Silky smooth and finely textured with svelte tannins whilst retaining a vigour and verve which flows unswervingly to the finish line. Alcohol 13%

Etchart, Single Vineyard, Cafayate, Salta 2024
Platinum, 97 points
Archetypal high-altitude Malbec exuding all the classic hallmarks: plums, blackberries and cherries underpinned by a lively herbal core. Snappy and energising, a spicy balsamic character saunters over the palate and conjoins with a stony mineral note to end. Alc 14%

Finca Flichman, Microterroir Gravel & Stone, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021
Platinum, 97 points
Incomparable splendour and sophistication emanates with layer upon layer of violets, blueberries, liquorice and dark chocolate which infuse with the rapturous tannins and bracing beam of acidity. Ample and mouth-filling with a refined mineral length. Alc 14%

Domaine Bousquet, Finca Lalande Organic, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Brilliant blackberry and sweet cherry fruit with rippling graphite and savoury spice notes. Ripe tannin, zesty acidity and a very long finish maintain the bright focus to the last. Alc 14%

Finca Sophenia, E's Vino, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Rippling with succulent blueberry fruit and violet, floral perfume with an energising palate of plump fleshy tannins and zingy acidity, concluding with a balsamic twist. Alc 14%

Huichaira, Cielo Arriba, Jujuy 2022
Gold, 95 points
The epitome of a wine from incredibly high altitudes; layers of blackcurrant, sweet spicy herbs and florals are enmeshed in satin texture and tannins with breath-taking acidity to boot. Alc 14%

Majestic, Zuccardi Definition, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022
Value Gold, 95 points
Tenacious ripe blackberries, blueberries and cherries rumble over the savoury spice and smoky oak core. Firm and powerful with bold, grippy tannins and a peppery finale. Alc 14.5%

Marks & Spencer, Collection Susana, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Splendid blue fruit and violet perfume interweaves nicely with the plush tannins and densely structured palate, with a bite of mineral fresh acidity to finish. Alc 14%

Santa Julia, Family Reserve, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
Abundant red and blue fruits with hints of violet and mint. Richly structured with chalky tannins, cocoa notes to fill out the fruit and vivacious acidity: generous Mendoza classicism. Alc 13.5%

Viñalba, Mendoza 2024
Value Gold, 95 points
A buoyant parade of damsons, plums and cherries with a fresh herbal energy kept in check by the soothing acidity and softening tannins. Charm personified. Alc 13.5%

Chile

Viña Undurraga, Red Field Blend, Maule 2022
Gold, 95 points
Aromatic blackberry, violet petals and pink peppercorn notes provide interest and intrigue with a mouth-watering juiciness driving through the palate. Soothing, smooth and reassuringly long. Alc 14.5%

China

Mountain Wave, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2021
Gold, 96 points
Hugely concentrated damson florals, black cherries and plums with a bewitching clove and vanilla aspect. Stylish and plush with silky tannins and a lofty, lingering acidity. Superb! Alc 14%

France

Château de Haute-Serre, Grand, Cahors, Southwest France 2023
Platinum, 97 points
A spine-tingling drive of energy and allure: sweet damsons, red berries and fragrant spices permeate the impeccably structured palate, complete with sleek tannins and an inviting acidity. Attractive and beautifully fresh with a moreish finish. Alc 14%

Clos Triguedina, Cahors, Southwest France 2021
Gold, 95 points
Towering with intense black fruit, black pepper and sweet oak spice which unfolds over the velvety structure and confident tannins displaying great typicity and charisma. Alc 13%

United States

Clos du Val, Stags Leap District, California 2022
Gold, 95 points
A powerhouse of crushed blackberries, plums and blueberry vanilla compote with a slick smoky cedarwood persistence. Structured and bold with decisive tannins and a lively finish. Alc 15%

Search all DWWA 2025 results

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About Dr Laura Catena

Dr Laura Catena is a fourth-generation Argentine vintner, author and a physician, with a medical degree from Stanford University. As MD of family winery Catena Zapata and founder of Luca Wines, she has spearheaded Argentina’s rise on the international wine stage. She is founder of the Catena Institute, writes regularly on wine and health-related research and has won several awards, including an ‘Old Vine Hero Award’ from The Old Vine Conference.

Dr Catena will be hosting a lunch at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2026 with a special selection of wines, including from acclaimed South American 'grand cru' the Adrianna Vineyard.

Perfect pairings: 'Wine First'

Travel tips: From New York to Mendoza

Argentina's wine future

Meet Dr Laura Catena and taste a special selection of Catena Zapata wines at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York 2026 on 6 June.

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For many, ‘light South American reds’ will sound like an oxymoron. The continent is mostly associated with – and celebrated for – assertive reds with muscular tannins, plush fruit and considerable ageing potential.

And yet, the evolution and diversity of wines produced from red-skinned grapes across South America makes the case for looking beyond the lauded expressions of Malbec, Carmenère, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon.

While these have consolidated South America as a source of some of the world’s most exciting wines, the real excitement is perhaps elsewhere, in the rediscovery of grapes and terroirs that produce lighter shades of red.

Spoiled for choice

Tasting wines for this piece was an embarrassment of riches. We could easily have featured twice as many examples of equal quality and character.

To frame this selection I first had to answer the question my friend Nacho Campos (former sommelier extraordinaire now working for UK importer Les Caves de Pyrene) asked when I told him I was writing this piece: ‘But how light is a light red?’

The pursuit of levity, detail, purity and elegance – at the service of varietal and terroir expression – is now a major preoccupation among South American winemakers, reflected across their ranges, not least the Malbecs, Tannats and Cabernet Sauvignons.

But that would be another (interesting!) feature entirely.

Here we focus on truly light-bodied reds, not just a technical premise but also as an opportunity to emphasise the changing landscape (pun intended) of South American red wine production and its wider palette of red varieties.

Producers are rediscovering old vineyards and exploring their vines, engaging with the complex yet fascinating history of their countries and decolonising wine discourse – rightfully placing the local farming traditions of yore alongside the European-informed canon.

Refreshing complexity

Engaging with history in all its beautiful if troubled complexity has expanded South American producers’ wine lexicon and geographical reach – often to surprising extremes.

Featured here are wines from regions that range from the Atacama desert, in northern Chile, to the southern extremes of Patagonia by way of secluded corners of Mendoza (Lalande), San Juan (Calingasta) and the oceankissed Atlántida (Canelones, Uruguay).

Some of these wines do indeed have an aura of mysticism to them – evocative of a time lost and unburied.

This exploration of secluded terroirs goes hand in hand with the ongoing reappreciation of Criolla varieties (on whose revival Amanda Barnes MW reported for our September 2025 issue) and old vineyards bearing early plantings of European grapes that have since fallen into disfavour.

Did you know that there are centenary Cinsault vineyards growing on granite in Itata Valley?

Or that Garnacha can produce ethereal iterations of Mendoza?

That a spontaneous crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Listán Prieto resulted in a variety called Moscatel Tinto?

Or that Bastardo/Trousseau has a long history in Argentine Patagonia? Now you do.

Fridge door-ready

How does this all translate into drinking pleasure? Very well indeed.

History and technicalities notwithstanding, the lighter reds of South America are straightforwardly fun and interesting – a perfect reflection of the winemaking community and ebullient wine scene of which they’re a product.

If you want proof of the continent’s technical evolution, spectacular creativity, inspiring confidence – and historical reckoning – look no further, one refreshing sip at a time.

Make space in the fridge!

18 judiciously crafted South American reds:

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Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Eugenio Egorov and Roger Jones tasted 112 wines, with 10 Outstanding and 64 Highly recommended

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting scores

112 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 10

Highly recommended 64

Recommended 37

Commended 1

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, minimum 85% Cabernet Franc wines from single, designated vineyard sites anywhere in the southern hemisphere

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting

Expectations exceeded

There’s so much history associated with Cabernet Franc. The monks at Bourgueil abbey in the Loire valley began cultivating the grape in the 11th century. By the 18th century, it was renowned for producing exceptional wines in Bordeaux.

Fast forward to today and, following our tasting of 112 examples from the southern hemisphere, Eugenio Egorov could hardly contain his enthusiasm: ‘This tasting was a revelation; there were so many great wines.’

The statistics support his excitement. Ten wines were rated Outstanding and 64 wines Highly recommended – an impressive performance, especially for a variety that historically often played a supporting role in blends.

Roger Jones concurred: ‘In the past, Cabernet Franc was herbaceous, rustic and challenging. However, this new wave of styles from the southern hemisphere is exciting.’

Latin American renaissance

As illustrated by the number of submissions, South America has enthusiastically embraced the variety, with Argentina leading the way. In a country dominated by and best known for Malbec, Cabernet Franc is increasingly prized for its perfume, harmony and freshness.

‘Producers should follow the lead of those in New Zealand and South Africa, who travel frequently in search of knowledge,’ said Jones.

The results for the latter underline his point: of 13 entries, four were rated Outstanding and seven Highly recommended.

Cabernet Franc’s journey across the southern hemisphere has revealed its adaptability in the vineyard, versatility in the cellar and ability to make delicious, refreshing wines with complex, distinctive aromatic profiles.

The results of this tasting reveal that there has never been a better time to explore Cabernet Franc, a variety with a strong heritage and so much to offer.

What to eat with southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, by Fiona Beckett

When it comes to southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc, it’s best to put out of your mind the idea that it’s a variety that produces light, crunchy, herbaceous reds.

Examples from countries such as South Africa and Argentina are far more typically full-bodied, Bordeaux-style wines to drink with classic red meat dishes – from grilled butterflied lamb to beef or venison Wellington. (The latter not least because mushrooms are a good match with it, particularly with older vintages.) They should also be able to handle a touch of spice, even a lamb curry.

Drink them when you’ve bought a beautiful piece of beef, save it for friends who enjoy a generous red, treat the family to a bottle when you’re cooking a classic Sunday roast or a homemade steak or ox cheek pie – the joy of these Cab Francs is just how enjoyable they are, and how affordable.

With their ripe fruit and supple tannins, they’re also good wines to bring out with a cheeseboard, even taking washed rind cheeses and blue cheeses in their stride. They’re definitely food-friendly.

See all notes and scores from the southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc tasting

The judges

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, educator and consultant working around the world. Based in the UK since 1989, he was a director at some of the UK’s top distributors, qualifying in 2008 as the first Master of Wine from Brazil

Eugenio Egorov is wine director at Six Senses London hotel & spa. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014

Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions

Southern hemisphere Cabernet Franc panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

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One of my favourite features of 2025, included in our September issue, collected contributions from our South America experts on their favourite ‘hidden jewels’.

Their input – kaleidoscopic and heartfelt – revealed unexpected and lesser-known wines, places and people. It offered colourful snapshots of South America as a source not just of outstanding wines, but also of creative energy and positive entrepreneurial spirit.

These are the drivers behind the continent’s most exciting bottles, many of which remained overlooked and underestimated for a long time. It’s great to see collectors and investors finally catching up with the quality and ageability of South America’s best – represented in this Wines of the Year selection by yet another outstanding vintage of Seña, the 2023.

Meanwhile, I was mind-blown by what is surely another Chilean icon in the making: Piedra Sagrada. But it’s not just in the upper fine wine spheres that South America is making an indelible mark.

Our September issue also included one of Decanter’s most successful panel tastings to date – South American Premium Whites – headlined by idiosyncratic (and accessible) gems such as Carmen’s DO Florillón #6 Semillon.

All of the wines etched in my memory of 2025 tell beautiful stories. From Argentina, Cara Sur’s Parcela La Totora evokes the exciting revival of Criolla varieties, while Catena Zapata’s Birth of Cabernet shows how excellence stems from the careful observation of the role nature plays in chance occurrence.

This is the essence of wine: unique messages, travelling the world in beautiful bottles. At a time when so many of us are feeling like stranded castaways, you’d want to feel inspired by one of these South American missives.

Wines of the year 2025: South America

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Value South American reds: Panel tasting results

Originating in Bordeaux’s Médoc, Carmenère didn’t exactly move to Chile to seek its fortune, but a ‘happy accident’ led to the rise of the country’s flagship red grape.

Thought of, to a certain extent as a difficult variety – slow ripening and prone to disease – it was more or less abandoned in Bordeaux after phylloxera ravaged Europe’s vineyards in the late nineteenth century.

Fast forward to Chile in 1994 when a variety that had been largely forgotten re-emerged by chance rather than design. Vines previously believed to be Merlot were identified as Carmenère, thought to have been brought over unintentionally from France.

The realisation initially caused concern for the country’s winemaking reputation, but as producers learned how to extract the best from the grape, it became a celebrated point of difference.

The offspring of Cabernet Franc, Carmenère shares similarities with its half-siblings Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Good examples express the soft, fruit-driven elegance of the former with the herbaceous and cedar-spice notes of the latter.

It typically produces full-bodied wines with high tannins and red and black fruit characteristics and works well as a blending component (it’s often thrown into the mix with its relatives).

Outside of Chile Carmenère is grown in other parts of South America, China (where it is known as Cabernet Gernischt), Italy and by a few Bordeaux estates.

When it comes to pairing food with Carmenère, there are plenty of great options. Roasted or barbecued meats make a great match, as do tomato-based and spicy dishes.

Decanter’s Tastings Manager Javier Soto-Miranda, who comes from Santiago, also highlights the suitability of pairing Carmenère with traditional dishes: ‘I do love drinking a glass of Carmenère during Las Fiestas Patrias (the Chilean festival celebrated on 18 September) with a nice Chilean empanada or pastel de choclo (a kind of corn pie).’

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Smooth, creamy, with luscious black fruit, Bonarda is a kitten that just wants to be petted.

And there is no shortage of Bonarda kittens in Argentina: it’s the third-most planted grape variety in the country – the first is Malbec, the second Cereza (one of the historic Criolla varieties) – and one of Bonarda’s main, grower-appealing characteristics is its generous yields.

It’s especially the case in the warm, sunny vineyards of eastern Mendoza, where its many bunches can ripen to deliver that dose of creaminess and sweetness that are Bonarda’s trademark.

Scroll down to see Patricio Tapia’s pick of Argentina’s Bonardas

Opaque origins

Although Bonarda has been part of the Argentine wine landscape since the beginning of the last century, it wasn’t entirely clear where it came from or what it was.

Bodega Nieto Senetiner’s winemaker Roberto González (pictured, above), a Bonarda expert, explains: ‘In 2008, DNA studies were conducted and determined that Bonarda originates in Savoie and is [the same as] Douce Noir/Corbeau.’

González has been vinifying Bonarda at Nieto Senetiner since 1999 and is responsible for the first attempt at making a truly great Bonarda.

In 2000, the winery launched Edición Limitada (now called Las Tortugas Estate – see recommendations), a Bonarda that at the time was a giant in terms of ripeness and extraction, but has since been substantially refined and now even shows signs of freshness – a detail that’s uncommon in the grape.

Freshness in his Bonardas is what winemaker Alejandro Vigil, a partner in the El Enemigo winery, has been searching for.

Vigil has been studying Bonarda’s behaviour and experimenting with different soils in eastern Mendoza, all planted with very old Bonarda vines.

And from there, he’s developed a series of four single-vineyard bottlings that are among the best examples of the variety today.

‘The main challenge I face is getting the grapes to ripen without excessive alcohol, which would give them too much sweetness,’ says Vigil.

‘And I’ve found [better balance] in clay soils, which have better water retention. In sandy or very stony soils, what I get is peach jam.’

And nothing against peach jam, but what Vigil wants to demonstrate is that Bonarda can also be fresh and elegant; as is the case with one of these four single vineyards called El Mirador (see recommendations), which offers an expression of Bonarda with an unusual, firm tannic structure and freshness, rich in red fruits and herbs.

Reaching new heights

Sebastián Zuccardi, winemaker at the Zuccardi Uco Valley winery, has taken it a step further.

For Emma, the house’s top Bonarda (above), he uses vines planted in Altamira and San Pablo, cool, high-elevation areas where the variety should have problems. Does it?

‘The first versions of Emma came from the east, but in 2013 we decided to explore new areas in search of higher quality. And what we found was a different Bonarda,’ he explains.

‘The chalk in those soils gave them a firmer tannic structure, and the elevation gave them redder, fresher fruit. But in those cooler areas, like San Pablo, Bonarda takes much longer to ripen. In fact, it’s the last variety we harvest, and with low alcohol levels, sometimes at less than 12%.’

The new versions of Emma are Bonardas with sharp tannins, but they maintain that ripe, juicy, fruity side that is the hallmark of the grape and the reason why it’s so lovely to drink.

18 top-of-their-game Bonardas from Argentina:

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• Decanter’s Dream Destination: Entre Cielos, Mendoza, Argentina

Right in the heart of Vistalba’s wine route, Entre Cielos sits a stone’s throw from some of Argentina’s most revered wineries and offers the ideal place to unwind after a day of tasting.

Vineyard views, the towering Andes on the horizon, and imbibing a glass of chilled Torrontés by the serene pool are all part of Entre Cielos’ countryside charm.

Soak in a tub of Malbec

But its real distinction is the hammam – the first in Latin America and still the finest spa in Mendoza. If you want nothing more than to soothe tired muscles or revive parched skin after a day in the vineyards, the series of warm waters, steam chambers and local olive oil scrubs will leave you instantly renewed.

For those who like their wine inside and out, spa treatments use grape seeds as exfoliants – and even include a Malbec bath.

The hammam is an indulgence that fuses East and West, incorporating the rituals of Morocco with the ingredients and natural resources of Mendoza.

In September it was named Best Accommodation in Mendoza at the regional Great Wine Capitals Awards – the second time it has been crowned with that accolade – and it is easy to see why Entre Cielos’ appeal remains strong since first opening in 2009.

Try your hand at harvest

Mendoza’s wine regions are vast, so choosing the right base is essential. Entre Cielos offers the perfect balance: surrounded by vineyards, with several wineries within walking distance and the rest of Luján de Cuyo a short drive away. The Uco Valley is still about an hour by car, and Mendoza city under 30 minutes, but you’re also just minutes from leafy Chacras de Coria with its lively mix of restaurants and bars.

The estate’s vines are vinified by neighbouring Nieto Senetiner and contribute to the prized DOC Malbec – Luján de Cuyo is one of only two DOCs in Argentina. The vines weave their way through the property, inviting you to get up close and cosy; and each March guests can even join in the harvest and pick grapes alongside the team.

Sleep and sustenance

But for those who prefer to keep a cool distance from getting their hands dirty, perhaps the best way to appreciate the grapes is from above – while sleeping in one of the vineyard lofts. Alongside 15 rooms in the central hotel, which is set among the gardens and pool, nine lofts float above the vines on stilts. The Limited Edition Loft Suite even comes with a private jacuzzi above the vineyards, so you can soak in the stars above – and hear the rustle of the vines beneath (you might have to momentarily turn off the bubbles to hear the vines!).

At your doorstep lie some of Mendoza’s top tables, including four Michelin-star restaurants – Brindillas, Zonda, Riccitelli Bistró and Angélica Cocina – with two more not far away, as well as plenty of casual options.

Closer still is Entre Cielos’ own Nube restaurant, a sumptuous space serving fusion cuisine from local ingredients. Burrata with pistachio hummus; roasted sweetbreads with grape syrup and pickled pomegranate; and fillet steak with coffee and cauliflower purée are just a few of the imaginative culinary creations coming from Nube’s kitchen. At least once a week, the terrace comes alive with a traditional asado (barbecue) experience, where you’ll learn the secrets of Argentina’s cuts – and become savvy about deciphering your vacio from your entraña.

The wine list spans Argentina’s icons and off-the-beaten-path finds, with enough variety to keep you exploring for weeks. Paired with the glorious Mendoza sunshine and vineyard views, it’s all too easy to linger at Entre Cielos a little longer.

For further information, see the Entre Cielos website.

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Chile’s rich diversity of quality red wine styles was on full display at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2025, with a host of top medals for producers in many regions – including two highly coveted Best in Show accolades.

A deep-rooted vineyard heritage and wide variety of terroirs and microclimates in this long, narrow country, which nestles between the Pacific ocean and the Andes mountains, have provided the perfect foundation for a new generation of talented winemakers to flourish on the international stage.

Efforts to preserve and revitalise old-vine plantings in historic grape-growing regions can be seen in superbly balanced, earthy and juicy reds from varieties including Cinsault, País and Carignan. Carmenère, too, has thrived in Chile during a renaissance for the variety that began in the 1990s.

Scroll down to discover 14 top-scoring wines from Chile

Yet, modern Chilean reds also range from aromatic and fresh Pinot Noir in the cooler climate of Casablanca Valley to elegant Cabernet Sauvignon wines, not to mention exciting projects on the fringes of the Atacama desert in the north.

Such variety means wine lovers are spoilt for choice, but DWWA’s rigorous judging process offers a path to explore this vibrant landscape with confidence. Discover delicious, medal-winning Chilean reds on these pages, and find a perfect bottle for the dinner table.

Explore the full results from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Antiyal, Viñedo Escorial Carmenère, Maipo 2020

97 Best in Show

US$56-$80 AOC Selections, Pogo’s, Royal Wine Merchants

Carmenère is stepping back into the limelight after a century or more of eclipse. This Maipo example has been entirely concrete aged. You’ll

find lifted cherry-plum fruits on the nose, while the palate is deep and serious, and the tannins are there as much to provide flavour as texture. The fruits, too, step back from their primary aromatic focus and seem to grow a little deeper and sterner in the mouth. There are fresher notes, too, though the green tones that have dogged the variety in the past are almost completely absent here. This balanced, classically framed varietal red wine is ready to enjoy now, ideally with food. Alcohol 14.5%

Miguel Torres, La Causa del Itata Cinsault-País-Carignan, Secano Interior, Itata 2022

97 Best in Show

POA £ John E Fells

This is a blend of the traditional (though formerly despised) varieties grown in Chile’s historic regions: Cinsault and Carignan with País. Don’t expect a deeply coloured, black-purple wine: this is a light garnet red. The aromas are warm, earthy, rustic, with an apple-berry perfume behind the dry grass and brush; the flavours are bright, clean, open-pored yet with a sinewy finish that brings vivid yet broad acidity into partnership with firm, resolute tannins. It’s not hard to imagine that this was the way the best red wines tasted in previous centuries in Chile – quenching, satisfying wine for those who’ve worked physically hard all day. Which is to say that it needs, and will reward, informal

food partnerships. Alc 13.5%

Aconcagua

Errazuriz, Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

95 Value Gold

£12 Tesco, Waitrose

Ripe cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate and a lick of eucalyptus permeate the lively nose and palate, which has graphite tannins and a gorgeous black olive finish. Alc 13.5%

Atacama

JP Martin, De Cal Garnacha, Huasco Valley 2022

95 Gold

jpmartin.cl

Eccentric, complex and multidimensional, exuding red berry and smoked spice aromas, along with a bright, saline undertone. Velvety and fine-grained with a zingy, crisp acidity. Alc 12.5%

Cachapoal

San Pedro, Altair 2022

96 Gold

sanpedro.cl

Black cherries and plums complemented by a bright leafiness and an attractive spicy element. Structured and firm, with fine-grained tannins and youthful acidity. Alc 14%

Casablanca Valley

Terranoble, Algarrobo Pinot Noir 2024

96 Gold

terranoble.cl

Charming red plums, sour cherries and decadent florals billow over nose and palate. Crunchy cranberry acidity, silky tannins and a delightful seaweed tang. Alc 12.5%

Colchagua

Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Escudo Rojo Origine Carmenère 2024

97 Platinum

bpdr.com

Delightful plum, cherry and blackberry fruits pave the way to a chocolate richness, layered with tobacco and cigar box oak. Crunchy fruit on the palate with supple tannins and a lift of eucalyptus to finish. Alc 14%

Montes, Purple Angel Carmenère-Petit Verdot 2021

95 Gold

£78.99 Hedonism, North & South

Classy and hedonistic, with captivating aromas of ripe cherries, plums, chocolate and cassis liqueur, all bolstered by a superb oak frame and cigar box tannins. Alc 14.5%

Viña Casa Solís, La Piqueta Reserva Syrah 2024

95 Value Gold

POA £ Press Wine Services

Juicy blue plums and keen floral notes with a charge of peppery spice that envelopes the lovely, approachable structure and lively tannins. Filled with potential and excitement. Alc 13.5%

Maipo

Undurraga, Altazor, Pirque 2021

95 Gold

£63 Hallgarten Wines

Welcoming red berries and florals, bright acidity and fine, graphite tannins, along with an enigmatic, savoury umami character bubbling under the surface. Alc 14.3%

Maule

Miguel Torres, Los Inquietos 02 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

97 Platinum

£50 John E Fells

Abundant fruits of cherry, plum and blackberry with notes of eucalyptus. The polished, elegant structure, silky smooth tannins and pervading acidity reveal the potential of this effortlessly stylish Cabernet, while also emphasising the quality coming from the Maule region. Alc 14.5%

Longaví, Glup País 2023

96 Gold

longaviwines.cl

Enchanting spicy red fruits and lifted florals. A vibrant smoky tension cuts across the bracing acidity and judicious tannins. Great regional typicity. Alc 12.5%

Bouchon, Vigno Carignan 2022

95 Gold

£19 Molson Coors

Red cherries, raspberries and strawberries waft across the nose and infiltrate the energetic palate, which has milk chocolate tannins and a lovely floral grip to end. Compelling. Alc 14%

San Antonio

Cono Sur, Ocio Pinot Noir 2022

96 Gold

POA £ Villeneuve Wines

Alive with red cherry fruit and vibrant florals, delicate herbs lapping at the edges. Firm and serious on the palate with beautifully balanced pencil shaving tannins. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2025 award-winning wines

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We gathered together a strong contingent of people with detailed expertise and inside knowledge of the South American wine scene, and asked them for their up-to-date tips and on-the-ground advice about the regions, producers, wines and dining spots that deserve more attention for their uniqueness and character.

Each of our guest contributors interpreted the request differently, through the lens of their own personal and professional histories, in the end providing us with a fascinating mosaic of places, people and wines.

From Michelin-starred venues to remote areas where electricity is a luxury, from award-winning Semillons to sparkling Syrah, the following is a list full of surprises, shaped by authenticity, craftsmanship, laid-back sophistication and colourful elegance.

That’s possibly the essence of contemporary South America.

See our experts’ picks of the hidden jewels of South America

Alejandro Iglesias

Vistalba and Las Compuertas, Mendoza

Heritage, fine dining & high-altitude single malt

Just 30 minutes’ drive south from the centre of Mendoza, the neighbouring GI sub-regions of Vistalba and Las Compuertas are among Argentina’s most storied wine-growing areas.

Home to century-old Malbec vines and leafy, rural roads, the zone combines tradition with modern sophistication.

In recent years, this historic corner of Luján de Cuyo has gained renewed recognition: old-vine plots here are now fiercely sought after by leading producers and many of Argentina’s top names operate in the area – among them Cheval des Andes, Nieto Senetiner, Durigutti, Matías Riccitelli and Kaiken.

Wine tourism is thriving, supported by a number of high-end offerings.

Two winery restaurants, recognised by Michelin Guide, stand out: 5 Suelos Cocina de Finca at Durigutti Family Winemakers and Riccitelli Bistró (which has one Michelin star), both offering refined cuisine in vineyard settings.

Las Compuertas is also home to the Williams Casanegra Distillery, where Andes Highlands Single Malt Whisky is produced and matured at high elevation in oak casks.

With spectacular views of the Andes as a dramatic backdrop, Vistalba and Las Compuertas stand as a unique expression of Mendoza’s heritage, as well as its future.

Alistair Cooper MW

Chile: La Fuente Toscana

Migrant Italian-inspired fine dining in Ovalle

The past 10 to 15 years have seen a boom in Chile’s culinary scene, with Santiago unsurprisingly taking centre stage.

Yet for me, the most fun and welcoming restaurant outside Santiago is without doubt La Fuente Toscana in Ovalle, some 300km to the capital’s north – a perfect spot from which to discover the stunning regions of Limarí and Elqui.

Expect hearty and well-prepared Italian dishes alongside stunning seafood and shellfish from the local coast, which is famous in Chile for its abundance of high-quality produce.

The restaurant is the brainchild of the engaging and welcoming Juan José Juliá, a food and wine lover who previously worked in the agricultural sector.

While the food alone is worth the visit, La Fuente Toscana also has what I consider to be the best wine list in the whole of Chile – at extremely reasonable prices to boot.

When I visited earlier this year, this included international wines such as Gonon St-Joseph for less than £100.

Patricio Tapia

Los Cintis Valley, Bolivia

A whisper from the past

To visit Los Cintis Valley is to take a journey back in time.

The vineyards look more like forests, the vines tangled in the trees, three metres high, forcing the harvest to be carried out on ladders; the varieties bear strange names: Vischoqueña, Imporeña.

In Los Cintis, the only glimmer of technology seems to be the electricity.

A hidden corner in the middle of the Andes in the deep south of Bolivia, the valley sits at 2,300m-2,800m above sea level, 700km south of the capital La Paz.

The wines produced here are as strange as they are delicious, with unusual flavours that come from an ancient viticulture, a whisper from the distant past.

Successful producers beginning to emerge from Bolivia include Jardín Oculto, San Francisco de la Horca, Tierra Roja and Yokich.

The wines from Los Cintis represent arguably the most original side of South America’s wine scene today. And, once again, the future is rooted in the past.

Carla Bertellotti

Chile’s maverick producers

It’s time to spotlight Chile’s small, bold and passionate producers who are digging deep into their origins – honouring the heritage value of historical regions and rediscovering overlooked grape varieties – while swimming against the commercial tide.

These winemakers aren’t chasing trends or trying to reinvent Chile, they’re challenging both local and global drinking habits by championing hidden gems such as the old País vineyards of Itata.

Long dismissed, País is now proving its worth, yielding wines of elegance and soul.

Special praise goes to Vinos Masintín , whose stunning País from a small parcel in coastal Maule Valley is the finest I’ve tasted.

Equally inspiring is L’Entremetteuse by Fench expat Laurence Réal in Colchagua Valley – she’s an artisan producer who embraces authenticity, sustainability, fair trade and social responsibility, while allowing grapes the freedom to express themselves.

Differing in style, both producers create wines that stir the soul – and, ultimately, that’s what wine should do.

Valeria Gamper

Argentina’s world-class Semillons

Although Argentina is mostly known for its red wines – especially Malbec – the country’s whites are increasingly exciting.

Diversity is one of the country’s greatest strengths; however, there’s one grape that for me deserves special recognition for its history, potential and incredible stock of old vineyards: Semillon.

Although widely planted in Argentina in the past, its popularity declined – between 1968 and 2010, the cultivated area dropped steadily by 89.4%, from 5,486ha to the current 578ha, according to Argentina’s national viticulture institute INV.

The reasons for this dramatic decline are various, but primarily ‘a period of high-quality wine production in the 1950s and ’60s in Argentina was followed by an economy-driven shift towards high-volume table wine production into the 1970s and ’80s’, as Sebastián Zuccardi, winemaker at Bodega Zuccardi in La Consulta, explains.

‘A low market value for Semillon grapes and the variety’s susceptibility to rot in the vineyard, particularly botrytis, made it a prime candidate for being replaced by hard-pushed growers,’ adds Juanfa Suarez, head of nearby Finca Suarez.

Indeed, in the mid-1970s, Facundo Suárez Civit pulled up 80ha of vineyards, including Semillon, to replace them with orchards.

‘The Argentine preference for red wines likely contributed to the drop in Semillon’s popularity,’ says Juanfa. ‘Also, the later internationalisation of Argentinian wine, largely driven by Malbec and Chardonnay, pushed Semillon into the background.’

Renewed interest

But, in keeping with global generational shifts in winemaking, a renewed interest in Argentina in heritage vineyards with old vine stock, coupled with a recognition of Semillon’s freshness, character and ageing potential, is proving the catalyst for a revival.

Sebastián Zuccardi sees positive signs: ‘When the focus on quality returned, in the 1990s, the country concentrated heavily on red wines. At that point, Semillon ought to have continued its decline. But I’d say that about 15 years ago, we started to look at Semillon in a new way.

‘I’m planting [only] a few hectares myself, but for me, the fact that Semillon’s decline has levelled off indicates that something is happening.

‘It has to do with this revolution in white wines in Argentina. We have very old Semillon vines here – I’d even say pre-phylloxera – from massal selection, highly adapted to the place. That represents a great opportunity for Argentina.’

Today there are many exceptional examples to explore, including Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard (2022, £16 The Fat Pigeon Wine Company) from Río Negro in Patagonia, Zuccardi’s Finca Los Membrillos (2019, £90 Vintage Cellars) from Paraje Altamira and Michelini i Mufatto, Certezas (2021, £39.95 Corney & Barrow/$37.99 The Cellar d’Or) from El Peral in Tupungato.

But Semillon also often features as part of complex white blends, such as Susana Balbo’s Signature White Blend (2022, £19,95 Village Wines), Finca Suárez, Perico Blanco (2022, US$46.99 Houston Wines) and Luigi Bosca, De Sangre White Blend (2022, £19.50 Divine Fine Wines) – to name just a few.

Javier Soto-Miranda

Mujer Andina Wines, Chile

The young, family-owned and female-led project Mujer Andina (‘Andean Woman’) never ceases to amaze.

Founded in 2012, it continues to earn accolades and win over consumers thanks to precise winemaking and a clear interpretation of Chilean terroir.

A member of MOVI, an association of more than 35 small independent wine producers in Chile, Mujer Andina is led by co-founder and winemaker Andrea Jure and reflects her vision, taking inspiration from the fearless Chilean women who live and work in the Andes, with a special focus on environmental protection.

The project’s signature is a unique sparkling wine, Grand Levita Nature Rosé, made entirely from organically farmed Syrah grown in the Maipo valley.

A bright rosé, it shows pronounced minerality with subtle aromas of red berry and cherry fruits, and a floral nuance, with hints of toasted bread and brioche thanks to its ageing in French barrels.

Mujer Andina also produces still wines – including El Infaltable, a varietal Carmènere, and Kelüna, a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé – as well as an innovative gluten-free sparkling cocktail based on a zero-dosage sparkling wine, called Livianita de Sangre.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW

Brazil’s flourishing wine scene

Ambition, modern technology and substantial investments are the catalysts for a multitude of new vineyards and wineries appearing all over Brazil.

The country’s large landmass offers a huge combination of soils and microclimates that enable many grape varieties to flourish.

The border country between Minas Gerais and São Paulo states, to the north of São Paulo city, is an area of rolling hills and higher elevations of about 900m and up to 1,000m in parts.

With vineyards on both sides of the border, such as the area around the town of Espírito Santo do Pinhal on the São Paulo side, it’s possible to find world-class wines here.

By double pruning (that is, pruning once in winter, once in summer – a technique favoured to manipulate the vine’s growth cycle in southern Brazil’s sub-tropical climate), grapes are forced to reach maturity during winter (June to August), when there is less rainfall and cooler temperatures, achieving perfect ripeness, especially in vineyards planted with Syrah.

Rio Grande do Sul, the southernmost state in Brazil, bordering the northern reaches of Argentina and Uruguay, is where most of the nation’s vineyards are located and where a group of key family wineries, including Casa Valduga, Cave Geisse and Pizzato, are responsible for some of the most exciting wines.

These are well-established producers in the local market, yet they have stubbornly remained under the radar for most consumers outside Brazil and thoroughly deserve more international attention.

Florencia Gómez

James Turrell Light Museum at Bodega Colomé, Salta

A full sensorial experience in Argentina

Is it worth dedicating a whole day to a single winery? Absolutely.

Established in 2001 by wine-loving Swiss entrepreneur and art collector Donald Hess, Colomé is home to one of the world’s highest vineyards, at 3,111m, and promises a journey like no other.

The 115km road from Cafayate – three to four hours of slow, dusty switchbacks – winds through ochre hills dotted with cardón cacti before you reach the winery at 2,300m. The drive itself feels dreamlike.

The unexpected highlight is the James Turrell Light Museum, part of the Hess Art Collection – one of the world’s most important private contemporary art collections.

US artist Turrell – known for his work exploring the relationship between light and space – regularly wows visitors to installations and exhibitions of his works around the world, yet Colomé is the only place where a dedicated, permanent museum of Turrell’s work sits under one (adobe) roof.

Inside, nine immersive pieces sit quietly in the middle of the desert: a vast Skyspace (Turrell’s signature, minimalist architectural spaces, which are designed to frame and interact with the sky), colour‑shifting Ganzfeld rooms (spaces immersed in uniform fields of light that are designed to create sensory confusion), corridors where light seems liquid…

Minimalist yet intensely sensorial, they lead you from meditative hush to playful wonder, aligning with Andean blues, pinks and golds.

Colomé winemaker Thibaut Delmotte mirrors the art with altitude‑driven wines that are full of character, crowning a full‑sensory adventure you’ll want to share.

Adrianna Catena

L’Orange: a nourishing corner of Mendoza

One of my favourite places in Mendoza is L’Orange, a small-scale, artisanal winery run by my brother Ernesto Catena and sister-in-law Joanna Foster.

Located about half an hour south of Mendoza city centre by car, in Chacras de Coria district, it’s a serene, magical place – a secret garden with an orchard, small nursery, informal restaurant, winery and micro-batch ‘kombucheria’, where locally sourced yerba mate and green tea are used to produce a naturally fermented ‘pét-nat tea’ that completes its fermentation to less than 1% alcohol in the bottle.

The connecting thread is a philosophy that Jo likes to summarise as: living soils, living food, living drink (whether it be natural wine or kombucha).

The wines are produced using a variety of amphorae from France, Italy, Spain and Georgia, and the grapes sourced mostly from Ernesto and Joanna’s organic and biodynamic Demetercertified farm and vineyard in Vista Flores, a little further south, with other certified organic grapes from other producers.

Vinification is all natural without any adjustments, additions, filtering or fining.

Similarly, the food is either farm-to-table or locally sourced, always with an emphasis on agroecology.

Everything is precisely nurtured, and a long lunch at L’Orange has a way of restoring both body and soul.

Paz Levinson

Farm-to-table dining and high-altitude Cabernet Franc in Mendoza

If you’re visiting Mendoza, Sitio La Estocada, the family project of husband-and-wife team Matías Michelini and Cecilia Alvarez (now with second generation Paula, Stefano, Martina and Josefina already on board) is a mandatory stop.

The estate follows biodynamic practices and a holistic approach to farming, winemaking and hospitality.

The on-site restaurant, led by chef Enzo González and sommelier Daniela Ovejero Michelini, is one of the best places to dine in the Uco Valley. The attention to detail, the fresh produce grown on site and the impeccable service all make it a memorable and authentic experience.

And while in Argentina, make sure you explore the outstanding Cabernet Francs the country is producing. A good, unexpected place to start is Quebrada de Humahuaca, in the Jujuy province of northern Argentina.

A recent standout was Bodega Kindgard’s Copleras 2022 varietal bottling.

Produced from vines planted at about 2,200m, this is a wine full of aromatic intensity, with elegant floral and balsamic notes, and hints of pencil shavings and cedar box. A very characterful wine, made with clear intention and focus.

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A land of freedom and possibility as much today as it has been in the past, South America has long lured winemakers from other continents.

Seduced by dramatic landscapes, unique terroirs, abandoned old vineyards and unexpected winemaking traditions, foreign talent has found in South America’s wine regions a setting for projects that offer equal amounts of challenge and opportunity.

This influx of foreign talent played an important role in the impressive evolution and international visibility of South American wine in the second half of the 20th century.

But since the dawn of the new millennium, local talent has emerged as the real driver of development, innovation and creativity in the ever more vibrant South American wine scene.

Six special wines from South American winemakers plying their trade abroad listed below

Pastures new

Today, some of South America’s best – finding themselves with nothing left to prove at home – are reversing the tide.

Empowered by technical proficiency, entrepreneurial energy and international awareness, they have left their native countries to start exciting new projects in Europe, Australia and North America.

A combination of talent, serendipity and courage – with love and family as catalysts – is the common denominator of the stories of transcontinental success featured below…

Marcelo Retamal

Reta ES

From Chile to Spain

A trio of Spanish terroirs for Chile’s Reta

In 2015, Chilean winemaker Marcelo Retamal travelled to the Sierra de Francia in western Spain in search of roots – literally and figuratively.

‘I went to Spain with the idea of making wine where my family came from,’ explains Retamal, who goes by the name of Reta.

‘And when my wife and I visited in 2015, I thought the place was absolutely incredible – one of the most beautiful in the world, with wild vines growing amid native forest.’

That visit sparked the beginning of Reta ES, the European branch to Retamal’s eponymous Chilean wine label – now spanning three regions in Chile (Maule, Bío Bío and Limarí), and three in Spain (Sierra de Francia, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Rioja Alta).

His first commercial vintage in Spain was 2021. Today he produces just over 12,000 bottles annually from old vines of Rufete (in Sierra de Francia), Palomino (in Sanlúcar) and Garnacha (in Rioja Alta), with plans for more labels and a trebling of overall volume.

Starting out wasn’t easy. As a foreigner without a winery, he had to navigate unfamiliar cultural dynamics and logistical hurdles. ‘In each region, the people are different. It isn’t easy as a foreigner to adapt to each local reality.’

Best of both worlds

He has now found his groove, though, and splits his time evenly between Spain and Chile, following not just the harvests, but the summer. ‘I don’t like the cold or winter, so I follow the sun!’

For Reta, Spain offers a sense of optimism and community that he finds missing at times in Chile. ‘In Spain, even if things aren’t going well, people are positive. There’s a great village life – in the bars, you find producers, friends and wise elders.’

Yet there are challenges. Spain’s stringent denominación de origen regulations have limited his ability to use terms such as ‘Jerez’ or ‘Sanlúcar’ on his labels – even when the grapes come from historic sites.

He contrasts this with Chile’s looser framework and the freedom it affords.

Despite the contrasts, Retamal’s philosophy has remained consistent: interpret the humanised landscape. In Sanlúcar, he makes flor-aged Palomino without fortification; in Sierra de Francia, a Rufete-based field blend from vineyards dotted with cherry and fig trees.

‘Technique is just a means to express a place,’ he says. ‘And Spain, with its human scale, has let me return to wine measured in bottles, not cases.’ @retadechile

Amanda Barnes MW

Rodrigo Soto & Mai Errazuriz

Far Mountain

From Valparaíso in Chile to Moon Mountain, Sonoma, California, USA

An exploration of terroir and community

There’s an intense sophistication to Far Mountain’s wines, labels and winemaker, and a clear intent and strong features that run through all of the project’s elements.

It was with just such intent that Rodrigo Soto and his wife Mai Errazuriz founded Far Mountain in 2018, releasing their first wines the following year.

Born and educated in Chile, Soto started his career at Matetic in the year 2000, in Rosario Valley near the coast west of Santiago, where he was tasked with the pioneering implementation of biodynamic practices.

American viticulturist Alan York was brought in as a consultant at what would become a turning point in Soto’s career.

York introduced Soto to contacts and opportunities in California; Soto and Errazuriz soon headed north for a first stint in the US.

In 2012, they returned to Chile to start a family. But, six years later, an irresistible opportunity for Soto to head operations at Quintessa winery in St Helena lured them back to California.

Upon their return, the couple identified a number of what Soto describes as ‘underestimated vineyards’ and growers with whom they built a close-knit network. ‘Going back and finding those connections was a moment of epiphany,’ he explains.

Thus started Far Mountain, a project sourcing Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from selected partners and plots to produce wines that aim ‘to capture terroir and vintage more vividly’.

The particular focus for this project would be the unique salinity delivered by the vineyards of the Moon Mountain AVA in Sonoma.

Fresh perspective

Soon enough, Far Mountain became not just ‘a side, personal project but a matter of personal realisation’, according to Soto.

He highlights how, as an outsider, it is sometimes easier to identify the opportunities and potential of a place.

‘Every wine region and winemaking community can become very insular,’ the winemaker explains. ‘Moving around allows you to create openings, new connections and bring in new perspectives.’

Soto and Errazuriz indeed brought a fresh set of eyes, ‘unaware of the establishment and without preconceptions’, to Moon Mountain.

‘We don’t need to follow a script: we are writing our own. Creativity in wine is very important,’ he says, highlighting that it’s sometimes easier to be creative away from home.

While Errazuriz still retains her ‘day job’ at Paul Hobbs in Sebastopol, Soto is now solely dedicated to the family project.

Judging by the expressiveness and robust elegance of their wines, it won’t be too long before Errazuriz is able to take the plunge herself. farmountainwine.com

Ines Salpico

Gerardo Michelini & Andrea Mufatto

Michelini i Mufatto

From Mendoza in Argentina to Bierzo, Spain

Growing together in Spain’s rural northwest

‘We were looking for ways to grow and learn more about this marvellous world first-hand,’ explains Michelini. ‘We had always shared a dream to make wine in Europe – and specifically in Spain.’

That dream took shape in 2015 when they arrived – almost by coincidence – in Bierzo, a remote corner of northwestern Spain at the very edge of the Castilla y León region, bordering Galicia.

They were soon captivated by the region’s deep viticultural heritage and astonishing diversity of terroirs.

‘We found this culture with hundreds of years of history,’ says Michelini, ‘and were captivated by the incredible complexity you can achieve with just one single variety – from the changing orientation of the vineyard to the diverse soil types, ranging from slate and clays to calcareous soils.’

They began making wine alongside their son Manu Michelini, who was already active in their family winery in the Uco Valley in Mendoza.

The sensation of making wines in Spain felt immediately different to their experiences in Mendoza.

‘In Argentina we feel like conquerors – able to find new terroirs in higher lands and new places ideal for viticulture,’ Michelini explains. ‘But in Spain it is about discovering what already exists – what has already been done.’

Regional contrasts

The learning curve was not only technical but also cultural. The change in climate was also radical. ‘In Mendoza we have a desert and sunshine, in Bierzo we have shade and humidity,’ he says.

Since 2017, the family has maintained a second home and winery in Bierzo, where the emotional connection is familiar: the respect for old vines and the sense of community.

Living in Spain has also given them an unparalleled opportunity to taste widely, opening their palates and sharpening their perspective.

‘Spain has given us the chance to try so many different wines, an opportunity we didn’t have [with the restricted wine imports] in Argentina,’ adds Michelini, noting how important the experience has been to their personal and professional growth. ‘It gave us the chance to discover what we liked drinking and what wines we wanted to make.’

Their connection with Spain has grown so strong that Manu Michelini now lives there permanently.

In addition to working with the family in Bierzo, he has launched his own project in Rioja under the Dominio del Challao label.

While working at the family winery, in 2017 Manu took a trip east to Rioja Alavesa, where he was immediately captivated by the old vines and deep chalk soils – yet another corner of Spain with untapped potential, waiting to be rediscovered through fresh eyes. @michelini_i_mufatto

Amanda Barnes MW

See here for more wine recommendations from South American winemakers working overseas

Diego Alfredo Ribbert

Legado de Orniz

From Mendoza in Argentina to Toro, Spain

Exploring the untapped potential of Tinta de Toro

‘My trajectory from Mendoza to Toro has been a long, beautiful journey of personal and professional development and discovery,’ says Diego Ribbert. ‘And it’s still ongoing.’

Trained in agronomy with a specialisation in viticulture and oenology, Ribbert accumulated professional experience in Argentina and California before securing a job at Chandon Argentina.

He climbed the ranks at LVMH, the brand owner, eventually becoming estate manager at Terrazas de Los Andes.

Here he enjoyed what he describes as some of the most formative experiences of his career, adding business and commercial acumen to his technical background.

In 2008, when the luxury group bought Numanthia in Toro, in Spain’s northwestern Castilla y León region, Ribbert was sent to set the premium estate in motion under the new ownership.

There he met his now wife Enriqueta Celemín Amaro, who had been hired locally as an agronomist. Amaro had previously worked as an intern in Argentina, and the couple returned there for a spell, but the old vines of Toro had left an indelible mark on Ribbert.

The urge to explore the region’s heritage, and leverage Amaro’s status as the fourth generation of a family of growers, prompted their return and the launch of Legado de Orniz in 2010.

Continental shift

Years of intense work and ‘rock ’n’ roll’ – juggling consulting projects with the development of Legado de Orniz – followed.

In 2019, however, LVMH came calling again, with an offer Ribbert could not refuse, and the family headed back to Argentina where he took a chef de cave position at Chandon.

But the die had been cast and, two years ago, Ribbert and Amaro decided to return again to Toro to focus solely on Legado de Orniz.

It was a decision ‘to commit to our shared path of discovery,’ Ribbert explains, and to the development of a winemaking program that identifies an extraordinary untapped potential in Tinta de Toro – the local name for the Tempranillo variety.

Asked about the challenges of settling in Toro as an outsider (and one with an impressive CV), Ribbert says that it was important to come with an attitude of respect, attention – and wonder.

‘I spent four years living in the village [of San Román de Hornija], just getting to know the people, and understanding the history and traditions. And this is the essence of Legado de Orniz.’ legadodeorniz.com

Ines Salpico

Martin Moran

Mordrelle Wines

From Mendoza in Argentina to the Adelaide Hills, Australia

Science, tradition, courage – and family

Winemaker Martin Moran and Michelle Dreckow have salsa to thank for the existence of Mordrelle Wines – and of their three young sons. It was while dancing that Moran and his now wife met.

Moran – born in Mendoza, and educated as an agricultural engineer specialising in viticulture and oenology – had found himself drawn to Australia, where he worked vintages in Langhorne Creek, Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale.

Meeting Dreckow prompted his decision to settle in the Adelaide Hills and set in motion the events that led to the creation of Mordrelle – the name being a portmanteau of Moran, Dreckow and Michelle, reflecting the partnership between the winemaker and his wife and parents-in-law.

For their wedding, Moran had produced a small batch of traditional-method sparkling wine in his garage. Moran’s enthusiasm – and the quality of the wedding fizz – persuaded Dreckow’s parents to make some land available at their livestock farm for Mordrelle’s winery.

A juggling act

For a few years, Moran juggled the development of his nascent project with a full-time job as a viticultural researcher.

‘My scientific background plays a big part in the way I work,’ he explains.‘Both in Argentina and Australia there are aspects [of winemaking] that I like and others that I don’t subscribe to.’

He incorporates ‘Argentinian traditions, Australia’s more innovative outlook and my personal philosophy’ to create an expressive range of wines that has gained a faithful local following as well as high praise from Australia’s leading wine critics and press.

To Australia he also brought a very Argentinian love of asado, the traditional open-fire barbecue cooking – of which he is, judging by the success of the weekly events he holds, an enthusiastic master – not just as a meal but as a moment of connection and sharing.

These events have played an important role in establishing Mordrelle as a local meeting place, showing – like his wines – a different side of the Adelaide Hills: more colourful and expressive but always technically accomplished. mordrellewines.com.au

Ines Salpico

Alejandro Vigil & Adrianna Catena

El Reventón

From Mendoza in Argentina to Gredos, Spain

Unearthing viticultural relics in Gredos

For Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena, the Sierra de Gredos offered a journey to the past but with the dynamism of a modern movement.

The long-time head winemaker of Catena Zapata had already partnered with the fourth-generation winemaker and heiress of the influential Argentinian winery to launch their own venture, El Enemigo, in Mendoza in the late 2000s.

But a trip to Gredos inspired them to make wines beyond their native borders.

‘It felt like returning to the origins of viticulture,’ says Vigil, reflecting on that first trip that they took together into the mountainous region of central Spain, west of Madrid, where Garnacha vines often more than a century old are rooted in granitic soils and ancient viticultural tradition.

‘It was thanks to our friends at Comando G that the dream was born.’

Vigil and Catena partnered with winemaker Gearóid Lane, fondly known as el irlandes loco (‘the crazy Irishman’), and together – with the support of seasoned Gredos mavericks Dani Landi and Fer García of Comando G – they acquired a rare plot of old vines, of which 6.2ha are now planted and the oldest date back to 1920.

That vineyard, named La Reina, has since been complemented by a handful of other micro-parcels.

In 2022, they vinified their first vintage of Gredos Garnacha under the new label Bodega El Reventón.

A shared narrative

For Vigil, Gredos’ revival mirrors Mendoza’s own viticultural renaissance in sub-regions of the Uco Valley such as Gualtallary.

‘It has similarities in being an old region that’s being rediscovered by a new generation and under a new concept,’ he explains.

The wines, initially a series of five Garnachas, will soon be joined by a white wine made from Albillo, overseen by winemaker Lane.

Learning about the use of whole-bunch fermentation in the making of Garnacha has been the most impactful technical twist of the journey for Vigil – even influencing his approach to making Malbec back at home.

Though winemaking in Spain wasn’t inherently difficult, it demanded a return to basics.

‘The challenge was going back to “zero” – working in a new region, with very simple viticulture,’ reflects Vigil – the winery is fully off-grid, set up to use entirely renewable energy derived from 24 solar panels and battery storage, and the vineyards are managed organically and sustainably.

‘But it was always a beautiful challenge,’ Vigil adds. ‘There is no feeling quite like touching the grapes of those old vines with our own hands.’ bodegaelreventon.com

Amanda Barnes MW

Six wines from South American winemakers abroad

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Amanda Barnes MW, Florencia Gomez and Benjamin Gubbins tasted 150 wines, with 17 Outstanding and 99 Highly recommended

South American premium white: Panel tasting scores

150 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 17

Highly recommended 99

Recommended 31

Commended 3

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were requested to submit their dry white wines from any South American country and region, including all Geographical Indications, with a minimum retail price of £15 or US$20. Skin-fermented wines from white varieties were also welcome.

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our South American premium white panel tasting

While South America is still best known for its reds, this tasting proved just how exceptional the continent’s white wines have become.

What made the tasting so exciting was its wide scope, highlighting the remarkable diversity of styles, varieties and terroirs shaping the continent’s white wine scene.

Of the 17 Outstanding wines, seven were Chardonnay, reflecting growing refinement in the variety. As Flor Gomez noted, the best examples were ‘modern, without ever lapsing into excess’.

Another standout category was Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends, which scooped several top scores. ‘They were a real revelation,’ said Benjamin Gubbins, ‘with outstanding quality and character.’

White blends with Rhône and Criolla varieties also shone, as did several Uruguayan Albariños, which Gomez described as ‘full of varietal precision and charm, deserving of a spot on any serious seafood restaurant’s list’.

Beyond the varietal and regional spread, the tasting reflected impressive creativity in the cellar. More than a dozen of the wines showed some flor influence (biological ageing under a surface layer of yeasts), lending a saline edge and linear drive – a quality I think particularly benefits these sunny climates.

Others embraced long ageing in oak foudres or clay amphora. ‘It was a dynamic, wildly enjoyable flight that showed technical mastery and adventurous spirit,’ added Gomez.

Gubbins agreed, noting the relative absence of duds: ‘My overall impression was one of consistent quality and refinement – and no shortage of creativity!’

We were delighted by the combination of classics and wines with individuality and flair. There was not only breathtaking diversity, but also remarkable value for money.

As the high scores reflect, South America’s premium whites are definitely worth getting excited about.

What to eat with South American white wines, by Fiona Beckett

So many different styles of wine scored highly in this tasting that it’s impossible to suggest matches for them all, so let’s take a look at some of the less common ones.

Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon blends, for instance, might well be the ones to turn to with Peruvian-inspired cooking, which often blends Japanese and other Asian influences with local seafood and other indigenous ingredients.

Scallops would be a particularly good pairing. Albariño is also a reliable go-to with seafood (try it with moqueca, Brazil’s iconic seafood stew), while aromatic Torrontés comes in useful with ceviche (better, typically, than with citrussy whites such as Sauvignon, which can clash with the citrus in the marinade).

Wines that exhibit some flor influence generally develop an umami character that works well with Japanese food, while amphora-aged and other skin-contact wines could well be ones to sip with empanadas.

There’s so much creativity in these wines, you can afford to be experimental with the pairings.

See notes and scores for more high-scoring wines from our South American premium white tasting

South American premium white panel tasting results:

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Amanda Barnes MW is a wine writer, presenter and consultant. Author of the awarded South America Wine Guide (£35 southamericawineguide.com), she is a regular Decanter contributor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile

Florencia Gomez is the founder of London-based wine brand marketing agency Grand Crew Studio. A qualified and internationally experienced winemaker, she is also a DWWA judge across South American categories

Benjamin Gubbins is general manager at Vagabond Wines and heads its WSET education programmes in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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The Criolla revolution of South America is still in its infancy – despite these being the oldest varieties on the continent.

It was only in 2007 that the first commercial export of País (also known as Criolla Chica and Mission) wine came from Chile, and momentum has slowly built since.

When I first wrote about Criolla for Decanter in 2018 (October issue, for the collectors!), it was a scramble to find enough wines to even include tasting notes.

My editor generously allowed me to feature several wines not yet available internationally – it was still a nascent revival. Seven years on, the opposite is true: narrowing the list to just 15 wines was the real challenge.

Scroll down for a selection of criolla wines

Local roots

The Criolla renaissance is real – but its survival is far from guaranteed. Despite the renewed interest, these varieties are still disappearing at a rapid pace, unable to compete commercially with the consumer recognition and ready acceptance of Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Criolla varieties are South America’s native grape family.

While still largely absent from wine education and often overlooked as too niche, as I discovered during work for my Master of Wine thesis they make up more than 18% of Chile’s vineyards (according to the country’s national agricultural service SAG) and more than 30% of Argentina’s wine varieties (INV national viticulture institute), totalling more than 82,700ha – with at least 10,000ha more in production across Bolivia and Peru.

So, not quite as niche as some would suggest…

These varieties have always been big business for South America, and they built the foundations of the wine industry.

The early Spanish settlers principally brought Moscatel de Alejandría and Listán Prieto vines; and over a period of 500 years these crossed between themselves and evolved on the continent to form the Criolla family, a group of native varieties not planted anywhere else. Yet.

Research presented last year by Chile’s agricultural research institute INIA and Argentina’s INTA national institute of agricultural technology identified more than 100 distinct Criolla varieties in Chile and Argentina alone, and that is likely just the tip of the iceberg.

The Criolla varieties have long been valued for their high yields, but today they are also prized for their hardiness in the face of a changing climate – they are typically resistant to drought and disease, and climate-resilient. Not all are suited to fine wine, but many are proving their potential (see box).

País – the original

The three Criolla grapes that have driven the current quality revival are the red grape País and white grapes Torrontés and Moscatel de Alejandría.

País, also known as Criolla Chica in Argentina, Mission (US), Negra Criolla (Peru) and Misionera (Bolivia), is Spain’s Listán Prieto.

Alongside the internationally planted Moscatel de Alejandría (Muscat of Alexandria), it was among the first Vitis vinifera varieties to arrive in South America.

While there’s some debate about calling these Spanish imports ‘native’ or Criolla, to my mind their 500-year adaptation, selection and mutation on the continent justifies the label. Most winemakers agree.

With more than 10,300ha in 2022, País is Chile’s fifth most-planted variety. Argentina, Bolivia and Peru also have small but increasingly valued plantings.

País stands out for its deeper colour and firmer tannins compared with most pink or light red Criollas. (A recent crossing with Malbec, dubbed ‘Criolla #1’, may soon rival that claim, though.)

Handled with care – treated more like Pinot Noir than Cabernet Sauvignon – País nowadays produces wines that seduce with fine tannins, light body and distinctive notes of herbs, wildflowers and bramble fruit.

Know your Criollas: Five key varieties

País

Also known as: Criolla Chica, Mission, Listán Prieto Tastes like Wild herbs, red berries, florals and bramble.

Mostly produces: Medium-bodied reds

Main regions: Secano Interior Chile (Maule, Itata, Bío Bío), plus pockets in Argentina, Peru and Bolivia

Criolla Grande

Tastes like: Subtle notes of strawberries and cherry

Mostly produces: Light-bodied pinks and light reds

Main regions: Mendoza, San Juan

Torrontés Riojano

Tastes like: Jasmine, orange blossom, lychee, citrus

Mostly produces: Light-bodied whites

Main regions: Throughout Argentina

Pedro Gimenez

Also known as: Jiménez, Ximénez (but genetically different to Spain’s PX)

Tastes like: Subtle citrus, white flowers

Mostly produces: Light-bodied whites

Main regions: Mendoza, San Juan, Elqui

Moscatel de Alejandria

Also known as: Muscat of Alexandria

Tastes like: Aromatic and floral, although more savoury, earthy notes in Chile. Dried flowers, stone fruit

Mostly produces: Medium-bodied whites

Main regions: Secano Interior Chile, Peru, Bolivia

Local natives

These are already some of the most exciting reds in South America, which is no mean feat considering the variety has only been taken seriously for less than a decade.

Unlike País, Torrontés is genuinely native – a cross of Criolla Chica and Moscatel de Alejandría, it was born in Argentina (with some plantings beyond).

The name Torrontés stands for three different varieties: Torrontés Riojano, Sanjuanino and Mendocino.

Riojano is the most lionised, with 6,867ha in 2024 (according to INV – 80% of Argentina’s Torrontés) planted throughout Argentina’s wine regions. Its floral aromatics – jasmine, orange blossom, lychee – make it Argentina’s signature white.

Sanjuanino (15% of plantings) is increasingly used for skin-contact wines in San Juan – its lighter, more savoury aromatics and fuller body suit this style. Mendocino remains underwhelming, and scarce.

What Torrontés represents to Argentina, Moscatel de Alejandría is to Chile. Accounting for 3.8% of vineyards (some 5,280ha), it’s essential for the distillation of local spirit pisco and increasingly for wine.

In Itata and Bío Bío, producers such as De Martino, Miguel Torres and Roberto Henríquez are redefining the variety with savoury, structured whites – often aged in tinajas (locally made clay amphorae) and made with some skin contact.

Chile’s old-vine Moscatel often defies global expectations of the variety, and local massal selections (vines reproduced by taking cuttings from high-quality existing vine stock) are typically earthier, showing greater volume and acidity than fruity, light-bodied Moscatels found elsewhere.

Uniting nations

Criolla field blends are also common, especially in Criolla heartlands such as eastern Mendoza in Argentina and the Secano Interior of Chile.

In Peru, too, field blends of their famous pisco varieties (all Criolla) are more frequently being vinified as still wines, often with some skin contact, flor ageing or oxidative ageing.

In Bolivia’s ancient Cinti valley, vineyards are often co-planted not just with multiple grape varieties but with fruit trees and pink peppercorn trees (molle), which give a distinctive character and aromatic profile.

The revival of interest in these native varieties echoes movements happening around the world – from Georgia to Greece – and the Criolla wines of South America could become the continent’s most authentic voice. They offer a sense of place and heritage that is uniquely, and unmistakably, South American.

The 15 wines that follow represent the front line of that movement – a quality revolution that has been hard-fought but fast-paced. In another eight years, I suspect Criolla will be playing on an entirely new level…

[Sources: SAG annual report 2022; INV 2024]

You can pre-order Amanda Barnes MW’s forthcoming book (£35) on Criolla varieties at southamerica wineguide.com/criolla-book

A continent of flavours: Barnes’ pick of 15 Criolla wines to discover

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Of the many rum-producing countries around the globe, Cuba is among the most esteemed, known for its approachable, elegant spirits. Rum here dates back as early as the 1600s, but the real story arguably begins in 1862, when Spanish native Facundo Bacardí established a distillery in Santiago de Cuba. Meanwhile, the Arechabala family started a distillery in Cárdenas in 1878, leading to the creation of the Havana Club brand in the 1930s.

Prohibition in the US at that time gave Cuban rum a boost thanks to thirsty visiting Americans – not to mention the potential for trade in smuggled rum until the law was repealed in 1933. By then, the US had a taste for it, but the Cuban Revolution and the embargo on trade from 1962 put an end to that.

The Havana Club brand was nationalised. Bacardí meanwhile had already opened other distilleries outside Cuba, but the company was still based in Cuba. Its assets were confiscated and the family fled Cuba in exile. Today Bacardí rum is produced in Puerto Rico. 

In recent years, Cuban rums such as Ron Santiago de Cuba, Ron La Progresiva and Eminente have become available through agreements and partnerships with the Cuban government.

Cuban style

Typically, Cuban rum is made by combining characterful aguardiente spirit with more subtle, higher-strength redistillado, produced in column stills. After initial ageing in oak casks, these are filtered and sometimes aged further. Regulations for rum production in the country are rigorous – requiring that only molasses from Cuban-grown sugar cane is used, for example.

‘These practices uphold purity and consistency, which is why Cuban rum is often considered the benchmark for light, premium rum,’ says Tommy Cole, Europe brand ambassador for Ron Santiago de Cuba.

Regional differences

While there are relatively few distillers on the island, they produce distinct styles, depending on their location. The southeast, for example, home to Ron Santiago de Cuba, is humid and tropical, which ‘accelerates flavour development and lends the rums remarkable depth and maturity’, says Cole.

However, what unites rums from all over the country is their versatility. While many are perfectly suited to a neat serve, or over ice, they’re decidedly mixable, too. ‘Cuban rum’s lighter body and aromatic complexity make it ideal for classic rum cocktails where clarity and balance matter,’ says Cole. He highlights cocktails such as the Daiquiri or Mojito for lighter styles, or a Rum Manhattan for aged expressions. ‘The style lends itself to a variety of occasions – cocktails that remain complex without overwhelming the palate.’

One to try

Ron Santiago de Cuba Extra Añejo 11 Años

£35/70cl Waitrose Cellar

An ideal entry point into Cuban rum, equally suited to sipping or to mixing – try it in a Daiquiri – this opens with light brown sugar, vanilla and sticky toffee pudding aromas, leading to spicy stem ginger, rich orange and marzipan. Alcohol 40%

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Verona through a glass

Leader: Amy Wislocki, Magazine Editor

As part of my summer holiday in Italy’s beautiful Garda region, I spent one night in Verona before flying home. While packing for the trip I had remembered to grab a copy of our April 2025 issue, which features a guide to where to drink wine in Verona. I managed to visit six of the eight wine bars recommended by the author, Demet Güzey, while exploring the city on foot – including the April cover star, Osteria La Mandorla, which is mere steps away from Piazza Bra and the famous Arena di Verona. It was a fantastic experience that included a peek into the cellars at the historic Antica Bottega del Vino, a spritz made with the region’s recioto wine outside Caffè Monte Baldo and a glass of Prosecco col fondo at the tiny Tor-Tor. There is so much insider knowledge shared by our writers – I hope that our expert guides have helped you make the most of your travels, too. And if you haven’t yet left, head to our wine travel section.

Taste rare and exceptional wines at the Cellar Collection at Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London. Limited tickets available – book now

See what’s inside Decanter magazine September 2025

In focus

• Tales of the unexpected Ines Salpico introduces a selection of compelling wine stories from around South America, written by 10 experts
• Criolla: Stepping into the spotlight Amanda Barnes MW urges readers to discover this historic grape family in its myriad modern expressions
• Talent for adventure Ines Salpico and Amanda Barnes MW highlight six exciting winemaking projects by South Americans abroad
• My favourite Cornas vintages Matt Walls picks three years to enjoy now, and three to tuck away in the cellar
• Ted Lemon: 30 years of Littorai Ana Carolina Quintela meets a California legend at his Sonoma estate
• Vintage report: Margaret River Cassandra Charlick sings the praises of the 2023 Chardonnays and 2022 Cabernets in her second annual report
• Call of the vine England’s vineyards are overwhelmed by demand from volunteer pickers. Marianna Hunt finds out what drives them

Spirits

• Distilled Spirits news
• Spirit of Cuba Clinton Cawood introduces the distinctive and different styles of Cuban rum

Food & travel

• What to pair with Moroccan food Fiona Beckett on what to drink with tagine, pastilla and other local dishes
• Travel: Five days in Langhe Filippo Magnani puts together the perfect itinerary for visitors to Piedmont

Learning

• Books etc Reviewer Sophie Thorpe is impressed by The Cynic’s Guide to Wine
• Wine wisdom Expert advice, and ‘The ethical drinker’ meets Diana Snowden Seysses, sustainability icon

The wines of Istria

A sponsored supplement

With Istria’s array of DWWA medal-winning wines as a starting point, explore the grapes, soils and landscapes of this diverse Mediterranean wine region

Buying guide

• Editors’ picks Decanter staff share highlights from their recent tastings
• Panel tasting: South American premium white This eclectic tasting of 150 dry whites over £15 ($20) wowed our judges, who rated 17 Outstanding and 99 Highly recommended
• Panel tasting: US Grenache Held in the US, this tasting of 63 wines gave 4 Outstanding, 34 Highly recommended
• Weekday wines Decanter’s in-house tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink and priced at £30 or less
• Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress

Collecting & investing

• Marketwatch Auction news and new releases, plus SuperTuscans in focus

Regulars

• Writing this month Meet four of the authors from this month’s Decanter
• Uncorked News, inspiration & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column
• Guest column Dariusz Galasiński on the cultural significance of wine
• The Last Drop Celebrity bottles, ice cream and wine, and more…

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Nothing marks the end of summer like the school’s re-opening and the start of the annual September releases campaign.

This is the second tranche of international releases, or ‘Hors Bordeaux’, following the 50+ wines launched by négociants in March.

SCORE TABLE: All the Place de Bordeaux September releasesScroll down for Georgie’s ‘ultimate autumn case’

It’s no secret that the fine wine market is struggling at the moment, amid a backdrop of lingering US tariffs, a subdued Chinese market, and broader economic headwinds.

However, the 2025 campaign underscores the resilience, perseverance and prestige of La Place delivering a crafted – and increased – number of fine wines from around the world.

The autumn releases also present a joyous and fascinating moment to check in on both new and old vintages from some of the world’s most iconic and reputable estates. And this year’s cohort is a bounty of beautiful wines waiting to be explored.

The campaign, that technically kicked off on 28 August with Domaine de Baronarques, will run through to the end of September (with some extensions into October) and features more than 130 wines from 12 countries including: Italy, Spain, the US, Germany, Chile, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Hungary, South Africa and France.

The calendar of releases takes on a clearer structure than in previous years with the coming days seeing the release of starry names like Opus One (1 September), Masseto today (2 September), Almaviva (3 September), Solaia (4 September), and Penfolds Grange (8 September), alongside Bordeaux gems such as the historic re-releases from Latour (2012) and Palmer (2015).

The releases will be split by region giving each country the limelight – Australia, Spain, Italy, US, France then South America – with a dedicated Riesling week in October like last year.

New and exciting wines

Akin to last year’s flurry of German Rieslings entering La Place, this year is the first time wines from the Loire Valley will be included alongside other French bottlings. It’s an exciting development that seeks to not only present the best of France all in one accessible place but also offer more white wines satisfying current market trends and demand.

The number of wines due to be released may also give way to a potential dedicated ‘Loire week’ within the campaign.

Jean-Quentin Prats, CEO of Joanne Rare Wines which manages more than 100 ‘Hors Bordeaux’ wines, captures this strategy: ‘We want to focus on establishing what we already have however if there was one area we could increase, it was white.’

Indeed there are five new white wines on offer this autumn. ‘[There is an] increase in French whites, and one area is the Loire Valley where you have very high-quality products, old vines on amazing soils and great know-how. And there is a demand in the market for that,’ Prats added.

Alongside the Loire wines including; Domaine Delaporte (three cuvées from Sancerre), Domaine Sébastian Brunet (old-vine Chenin in Vouvray) and Luneau-Papin (biodynamic wine from Muscadet), are new wines from Adega Algueira (Cornamuse Godello from Ribeira Sacra), a sublime Chardonnay from Zuccardi (Gualtallary), the excellent House of Arras Late Disgorged Grand Vintage 2008 (Tasmania), an 18-year-old Riesling from Jim Barry (Clare Valley) and a red and white from Sonoma’s Flowers Winery.

Despite global challenges – declining wine consumption, tariff-driven price hikes, and shifting demand – La Place remains a dynamic stage for producers’ unwavering commitment to excellence and the increase in wines showcases that.

This campaign is a heartening reminder of the resilience of wineries and merchants striving to spotlight world-class wines (at a mixture of price points), in a turbulent market.

My highlights

Australia

There are several superlative wines in the mix this year starting with the 100-point Cloudburst Chardonnay from the 2023 vintage. It was tasted at the end of a 10-year-vertical, which will be coming to Decanter Premium this month, and showcases the very best of what owner and winemaker Will Berliner can achieve with his vineyard-come-garden. A sublime wine.

More white Australia gems come in the form of aged Tasmania sparkling House of Arras 2008 which was utterly delightful, Giaconda’s Chardonnay is another knockout by winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner and Jim Barry’s Florita Riesling 2015 is well worth seeking out.

For the reds, Penfolds Grange is absolutely top class as is Jim Barry’s The Armagh – exceptionally captivating and great quality.

Argentina

I completely fell in love with Sebastian Zuccardi’s Finca Canal Uco stopping just short of 100-points. It’s an amazingly fresh and focussed Malbec from high-altitude vineyards in Paraje Altamira. I’ve met Sebastian a few times in Bordeaux to taste through his ever-expanding range of wines and I adore his approach and sensitivity to the cuvées he creates.

The accolades continue for Argentina with a brilliant Cheval des Andes and fabulous Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard.

Austria

How lucky we are that Gerhard Kracher’s wines are now on the Place de Bordeaux. It’s a little tricky keeping up with the dozen or so Trockenbeerenauslese cuvées he produces (among lots of others) each year of which a selection are chosen to present to La Place.

This year there are five wines – numbered in order of sweetness – the denser a wine, the higher the number. If you haven’t tried these wines before don’t hesitate. They’re all excellent with numbers two, three and five standouts among the impressive range.

Chile

Ever since I visited Chile – and all of the La Place producers bar Vik in 2022 – I’ve been captivated by what’s being produced there.

Seeing the magnificent vineyard vistas and getting to know the viticulture and terroir helped me understand the efforts that are going on in the country to create world-class wines.

Seña this year is absolutely incredible – a must-buy if you can, but Almaviva and Santa Rita are also excellent. I also love the work Sebastian Labbé is doing at Viña Santa Rita wtih Casa Real. Such attention to detail is showcased in the wines.

France

The French contingent is strong and varied this year with everything from Champagne to Burgundy to Bordeaux as well as the Loire Valley providing plenty of enjoyment and value – particularly for two first timers.

Cuvée Eugenie, the Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Lebrun delights with richness and juiciness while the benchmark producer Domaine Luneau-Papin, with ninth generation Pierre-Marie and daughter-in-law Marie at the helm, have produced a lovely and very drinkable biodynamic Gula Ana 2023 for its first outing on La Place.

There are eight Champagnes being released this month spanning six different vintages giving fizz lovers plenty to get stuck into.

My personal favourite was Philipponnat’s mature Clos des Goisses 2000 which is in its peak drinking window, but Leclerc Briant’s organic Château d’Avize 2015 is also captivating, with amazing acidity.

Clos Lanson’s 2011 is accessible and easy to drink and sits well within the list of back vintages, all tasted together in July (2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007 and 2006). The vertical will be written up in a dedicated article on Decanter Premium later this month.

In Bordeaux, the new vintage of Château Cheval Blanc’s Le Petit Cheval Blanc is as good as it’s ever produced – even more evident after tasting back vintages to 2018 – another tasting that will appear on Decanter this month.

Always anticipated, Château d’Yquem’s off-dry ‘Y’ 2023 is stunning as is Château Rieussec’s 2023 vintage. Bordeaux’s sweet wines might not always get the limelight – and these are just two of the varied options coming from the lauded appellation – but it’s a great reminder of the enjoyment that these wines can bring whether you drink them young or old.

I tasted a 1975 – 50-year-old Rieussec at the estate last week and it was utterly delicious.

I have yet to taste Château Palmer’s 10-year-on release or Château Latour’s 2012.

Château d’Aussieres, the Languedoc estate from Lafite Rothschild, is packed full of flavour but silky and smooth with lots to like. Great drinkability and value.

Germany

I missed Germany entry onto La Place last year as I had just given birth, but there are some stunning wines that deserve greater visibility and appreciation.

Sweet, or even off-dry, wines don’t always have the best reputation, and can often be a hard sell ,but there’s something magical when sweetness and richness meet racy acidity, energy and vibrancy like several do in the list.

Heavyweights Ernst Loosen, Schloss Johannisberg, Steinmetz and Domäne Serrig are all represented this autumn.

I loved Ernie’s Riesling Auslese and Domäne Serrig’s Grosse Lage – both excellent quality and with interesting, historical stories behind them. Seek them out.

Italy

Most of the Italian wines were tasted by both myself and Decanter’s Italy editor James Button who came to Bordeaux for the tasting.

Standouts come in the form of Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta and Colore, both brilliant and worth getting hold of.

Antinori’s Solaia and Masseto’s grand vin deliver once again, both with 98 points and one of my favourite wines ever Allegrini’s Fieramonte is un-put-down-able.

I also tasted the new trio of impressive Caiarossa wines which offer great value as well as a mini-vertical of Gianni Mazzei’s Concerto which was extremely impressive. The new vintage doesn’t quite reach the heights of last year but there’s a wonderful signature to this wine with extreme drinkability.

Spain

Telmo Rodriguez’s Yjar (Rioja) and Matallana from Ribera del Duero are both worth trying to get hold of, as is the new complex and enjoyable wine from Adega Algueira – Cornamuse from Ribeira Sacra.

Despite the challengingly hot conditions, CVNE has produced a concentrated but balanced and finessed Real de Asúa Carromaza 2022.

USA

North American wines make up the bulk of the releases, many from the hot and dry 2022 vintage of which several were covered by Jonathan Cristaldi in his Napa Valley vintage 2022 report.

Highlights for me include the ever-brilliant Dalla Valle Vineyards Maya 2022 and an exceptional Quintessa 2022.

I also loved Luc Morlet’s slightly older 2018 vintage of Coeur de Vallée Cabernet Sauvignon and all three Verité wines from Sonoma.

The final La Place vertical to accompany this report will come in the form of 10 vintages of Inglenook’s Rubicon. I was lucky enough to attend a masterclass with winemaker Philippe Bascaules in July where we tasted vintages back to 2013.

This wine is really hitting its stride with a wonderful energetic quality to the wine despite the tough conditions.

Where value and interest lie

In a market favouring affordability, look to under £40 releases from Spain (Dolio) and southern Italy for everyday luxury as well as some of the German Rieslings which have incredible quality to price ratios. The wines from the Loire and Languedoc also provide excellent value.

Given the nature and prestige of some of these wines, prices can be on the very high side with the most expensive likely to top US$400-500. That said, if money were no object these would be my top 12 picks.

Which wines should you buy? My ultimate case of 12:

Ordered by style and score; sparkling, white, red, sweet.

House of Arras E.J. Carr 2008 (97-points): Vibrant Tasmanian fizz.

Philipponnat, Clos de Goisses LV Extra Brut 2000 (98-points): Mature and mouthwatering.

Cloudburst, Chardonnay 2023 (100-points): Sublime, vibrant, and complex.

Château d’Yquem, Ygrek 2023 (96-points): Fresh, succulent and moreish

Bibi Graetz, Colore 2023 (99-points): Nuanced and spectacular.

Jim Barry, The Armagh Shiraz 2022 (99-points): Bottled happiness.

Seña 2023 (99-points): Incredible Bordeaux-style blend.

Quintessa 2022 (99-points): Classy and energetic.

Zuccardi, Finca Canal Uco 2022 (99-points): Fresh, focused Malbec.

Dalla Valle Vineyards, Maya 2022 (98-points): Seductive and bold.

Kracher, Nummer 3 TBA 2022 (98-points): Exotic and zingy.

Dr Loosen, Riesling Auslese 2019 (98-points): Dense yet invigorating.

History of the releases

Beginning as a niche extension to Bordeaux’s en primeur system, the twice yearly ‘Hors Bordeaux’ releases have grown into a global fine wine powerhouse providing international producers access to premium markets via the region’s efficient distribution network.

Collectors can secure allocations at ex-cellar prices, often with ageing potential that drives secondary market value. These releases, many of which are actually back vintages, will test the market sentiment post a lacklustre Bordeaux 2024 en primeur campaign that failed to ignite serious enthusiasm despite some heavy discounts on 2023 release prices.

Generally a good indicator of enthusiasm is the appeal for Opus on the 1st of the month, this year releasing at a recommended UK onward selling price of £235 (8% down on the 2021 / 6% down on the 2019 according to Wine Lister.

It comes to the market below all recent back vintages. The consulting, data and analytics company said: ‘As one of September’s perennial best sellers, if any release has a chance of seeing demand in this difficult market, it’s Opus One.’

One courtier noted: ‘Everyone is waiting to see what the release prices for Opus and Almaviva will be – if they’re good for the market and people buy it will create a dynamic demand’.

It’s not just about price however, similar to the Bordeaux 2024s. There will be brands who have to decrease and some who will hold firm from strategy or lack of increase over the years. Let’s hope there’s some rebounding for this collection of wines.

Yet to be tasted

• Pym Rae, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley 2021
• Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, 2022
• Quintessa, Illumination, Sonoma County, 2024
• Flowers, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2023
• Château Palmer, Margaux 3éme Grand Cru Classe, 2015
• Château Latour, 1er Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 2012

Additional tasting notes for this report were done by Tina Gellie, James Button, Ines Salpico, Jonathan Cristaldi. In some instances there may be two tasting notes.

SCORE TABLE: All the Place de Bordeaux September releases:

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Argentina confirmed its standing as a vinous powerhouse of South America at the 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA). The country increased its top-tier medal count (those scoring 95 points or higher) by almost two-thirds compared to 2024, scooping seven Platinums – two Best in Show awards among them – and 37 Golds. Argentina also claimed 195 Silver medals this year.

Delving into the detail reveals compelling stories, such as that of Criolla. This family of grapes was brought to the Americas by the Spanish during the conquista and, for the first time since the DWWA’s inception, a 100% varietal Criolla received a Gold medal – Durigutti Family Winemakers, Proyecto Las Compuertas, Criolla Chica, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2024, created by bothers Héctor and Pablo Durigutti. Judges enjoyed its ‘enchanting fluidity of red berries, eucalyptus and mint’ and its ‘refreshing acidity, fine-grained tannins and smoky finish’.

Criolla varieties once accounted for about 90% of Argentina’s vineyards before they were sidelined in favour of ‘international’ varieties. Criolla Chica, also known as País in Chile, Mission in California and as Listán Prieto in its native Spain and elsewhere, is a pale-skinned red grape that has been cultivated in Argentina since the 17th century.

Plantings of Criolla Chica in Argentina had dwindled to about 360ha by 2018, but this variety, and Criolla grapes generally, seems ripe for a revival. Criolla Chica was granted quality status for red wines by Argentina’s Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura in August 2024.

‘Criolla is part of our country’s viticultural history’, says Héctor Durigutti. ‘For decades, it was pushed aside by a production model focused on volume and standardisation. Today it represents an extraordinary opportunity to speak of identity, biodiversity, and resilience.’

Two wines from the Durigutti brothers were also awarded Platinums – both also from the Las Compuertas GI of Mendoza in the foothills of the Andes. Durigutti Family Winemakers, Tinto del Pueblo Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo 2024 is a blend of 75% Malbec with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with an ‘abundance of plums, cherries and youthful violets’. Their Proyecto Las Compuertas Malbec 5 Suelos, Luján de Cuyo 2024 is made from heritage vines planted in 1914.

Héctor explains what the Las Compuertas project is all about: ‘Our aim has always been to interpret each place and express origin with authenticity. The Las Compuertas project is an extension of that philosophy, but with a deeper commitment: to preserve a unique viticultural heritage and to share it with the world through wines that speak of place, time, and culture. Today, we own 40ha that reflect the living history of Malbec, including century-old vines planted in the early 1900s. All our vineyards preserve ancient genetic material, including Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Charbono, Cordisco, Marsanne, Semillon and the distinctive Criolla Chica.’

Scroll down to explore Argentina’s top-awarded wines from DWWA 2025

Another story revealed by this year’s results is the continuing ‘rise’ of high-altitude vineyards. The two Best in Show wines both came from the cool, high-altitude Uco Valley zone of Gualtallary. Initially planted for sparkling wine back in 1992, Gualtallary is evidently a place to watch for top-rank reds.

Judges described Best in Show winner Bemberg Estate Wines, Pionero, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2022, the winery’s flagship, as ‘powerful and firm with nurturing acidity and a structure built for the long haul’.

Daniel Pi, Winemaking Director at Bemberg Estate Wines, says ‘Pionero was crafted as a tribute to Otto Bemberg, the family patriarch who came to Argentina from Germany in the mid-1800s. The idea behind the wine is to interpret the wine that Otto was probably drinking in those days … At that pre-phylloxera moment, Malbec was an important blending component in the red wines from the Right Bank, so we crafted a wine according to our humble interpretation: a Malbec-based blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to support the structure and longevity.’ The wine was aged in new 300-litre French oak barrels as well as concrete vats and oak foudres ‘to preserve the fruit character’.

Argentina’s other Best in Show was awarded to Bodega Rutini, Single Vineyard Malbec, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021 – a 100% Malbec with ‘head-turning’ fruit that judges described as ‘a slalom run in which the sweet cherries and berries of the aroma are joined by slightly sourer, wilder fruits like elder and sloe’.

Regional Chair for Argentina Paz Levinson said, ‘Uco Valley in general performed extremely well’, pointing out that Gualtallary ‘overperformed’, claiming six Golds. What makes the wines from this zone stand out? Daniel Pi says, ‘Our estate is located at the heart of Gualtallary, at almost 1,300m above sea level. Altitude is one of the drivers of the character of the area, located at the foothill of the main Andes, but there are other regions in Argentina with the same or higher altitude, but without the fine expression of Gualtallary.’

Levinson noted characteristic aromas in the wines from the region. ‘In Gualtallary and the Tupungato area, the aromas have a herbal component. When Malbec has this herbal component, it really shines. And they are very easy to make without oak, or using lighter oak, because they have the power and the tannins and the concentration, without needing to mature in oak for many months, or having to use new oak’.

This move away from oak-ageing, particularly for Malbec, is another important trend that Levinson singled out from this year’s results. ‘Of the 37 Argentinian wines awarded Gold or Platinum, 15 of them had no oak ageing; they were made using concrete or stainless steel, or they had no oak maturation – so that is a trend we are seeing, not just for everyday wines but for more “serious” wines.’

At Durigutti Family Estates, Héctor Durigutti uses a range of vessels for vinification. ‘Our aim is for each wine to express the vineyard – not the winemaker,’ he says. ‘In the winery we use diverse materials – uncoated concrete, large oak foudres, ceramic vessels and seasoned barrels, always seeking fruit purity and elegance and an honest reading of the terroir.’

Value was another key story for Argentina this year. Of the 37 Golds for Argentina, eight counted as Value Golds, including two that figured in the Top 30 Value Golds list – Domaine Bousquet, Finca Lalande Organic Malbec, Tupungato, Mendoza 2024; and Santa Julia, Family Reserve Malbec, Mendoza 2024. ‘

‘Argentinian wines are not the cheapest and not the most expensive, but they have a very good quality/price relation,’ Levinson confirms. For quality, variety, winemaking nous and sheer ‘interestingness’ – as well as for value – this South American powerhouse seems set to continue to excite.

DWWA 2025: Argentina’s top winners to try

Bemberg Estate Wines, Pionero, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2022

Best in Show, 97 points

What a story Gualtallary is telling us all. As we pointed out last year, this high-altitude zone of the Uco valley was initially planted in 1992 for sparkling wine, and was thought (back then) to be far too cool for reds. Fast forward 33 years, and it’s beginning to look like one of the very best of all Southern Hemisphere locations for deep, perfumed, structured red wines. Could it eventually prove a South American challenger to Napa? In three or four decades, we’ll know. It first appeared in our Best in Show selection in 2022; three short years later, we’re up to five appearances, including both of this year’s Argentinian winners. This wine is a blend rather than a pure Malbec: Cabernet Sauvignon provides 36 per cent with the 10 per cent balance from Cabernet Franc. It’s midnight black in colour, with ample refined aromatic warmth and a sense of fine-wine layering to the aromas, too. On the palate, the wine is wealthy and ample but not in the least heavy or clumsy, and it remains profoundly aromatic with a creamy blackcurrant lift. The tannins are graceful and fine-grained, and the fruit subsides in a flourish of resonant, cool-toned, swishly bitter-edged acidity. Almost the acidity of dark chocolate – but not quite, and no cocoa either: pure fruit to the fore all the way. Alcohol 14.5%

Rutini, Single Vineyard Malbec, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Best in Show, 97 points

Our second Gualtallary red this year is a pure Malbec from the cool 2021 vintage. It, too, is a very dark black-purple in colour, with disarmingly pure blackcurrant, black cherry and blackberry fruits just smoothed but not dominated by oak. That oak, by contrast, is barely visible on the palate at all, so dominant and head-turning is the fruit: a slalom run in which the sweet cherries and berries of the aroma are joined by slightly sourer, wilder fruits like elder and sloe. As that nuance suggests, the acidity is ample, ripe and supportive, working with the fine-milled tannins to keep the fruit well-trimmed and enduring. It’s four years old at present and still an infant, so much lies ahead: this would make a grand dinner-time bottle at any point over the next ten years. Alc 14%

Bemberg Estate Wines, La Linterna El Tomillo Estate Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Platinum, 97 points

A remarkable complexity of honeyed blossom, juicy mandarin and toasted hazelnuts which flutter and float over the elegant structure. Serious and stylish with an agile acidity and delicate flinty note which flows through to the end. Alc 13.5%

Bemberg Estate Wines, Pionero, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Platinum, 97 points

A mesmerising blend of ripe blackberries, blueberry pie and plum compote enmeshed in cocoa powder tannins and a lip-smacking leathery texture. Powerful and firm with nurturing acidity and a structure built for the long haul. Alc 14.5% 

Durigutti Family Winemakers, Proyecto Las Compuertas Malbec 5 Suelos, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2024

Platinum, 97 points

Multitudes of cherries, blackberries, plums and blueberries entangled in a lavish sage and lavender fragrance. Silky smooth and finely textured with svelte tannins whilst retaining a vigour and verve which flows unswervingly to the finish line. Alc 13%

Durigutti Family Winemakers, Tinto Del Pueblo Las Compuertas, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2024

Platinum, 97 points

An all-encompassing, tantalising display of abundance: plums, cherries and youthful violets with a vivid black olive and graphite savoury energy. Velvety and voluptuous with gossamer tannins and a salivating acidity leading to a moreish earthy finish. Alc 13.5%

Etchart, Single Vineyard Malbec, Cafayate, Salta 2024

Platinum, 97 points

Archetypal high-altitude Malbec exuding all the classic hallmarks: plums, blackberries and cherries underpinned by a lively herbal core. Snappy and energising, a spicy balsamic character saunters over the palate and conjoins with a stony mineral note to end. Alc 14%

Finca Flichman, Microterroir Gravel & Stone Malbec, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Platinum, 97 points

Incomparable splendour and sophistication emanates with layer upon layer of violets, blueberries, liquorice and dark chocolate which infuse with the rapturous tannins and bracing beam of acidity. Ample and mouth-filling with a refined mineral length. Alc 14%

Zuccardi, Regiones Cabernet Franc, Altamira, San Carlos, Mendoza 2023

Platinum, 97 points

Thrillingly fresh cherry and blueberry fruit garnished with a delectable mountain herb fragrance which undulates over the nervy seam of acidity and sublime harmony of tannins. A joy to savour, only improving sip by sip. Alc 14%

Search all DWWA 2025 results from Argentina 

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While wine has been made in Mexico since 1597, the 21st-century rise in homegrown labels cultivated in diverse terroir – from Baja California to Querétaro – has piqued Mexicans’ palates. Producers with the freedom to play around with varieties and styles have helped increase national consumption fivefold in the past 20 years, according to the Consejo Mexicano Vitivinícola (Mexican Viticultural Board). Today, four in every 10 bottles opened in Mexico are vino mexicano.

Chilangos (Mexico City’s residents) take eating and drinking seriously, and are equally enticed by suadero beef brisket tacos as by Michelin-recommended establishments following the guide’s 2024 launch. Boxed fruit juices or grape-flavour fizzy drinks usually accompany antojitos (street food snacks) such as tortas (pork, beef or chicken sandwiches) and tacos al pastor, but acclaimed wine lists drawing from world-class vintages and simultaneously spotlighting Mexican labels are found at both upscale and midscale restaurants in CDMX (as Mexico City is usually referred to).

While licorerías (off-licences) are the usual outposts for purchasing wine and spirits, the interest in wine has led to a flurry of dedicated wine stores (vinotecas) and bars opening. CDMX’s hippest neighbourhoods, Roma and Condesa, populated over the past three years by digital nomads happy to spend dollar salaries in Mexico, are where the wine scene is to be found. Low-intervention labels lead the charge, plus there’s buoyant interest in Mexican wines that are often better value than their neighbouring Californian counterparts. Throw into the mix the capital’s year-round temperate climate and it’s always a good time to crack open a bottle al fresco in CDMX – especially every 7 October when Mexican Wine Day is celebrated.

Mexico City wine shops: 10 of the best

Tierras de Uva

Fernando Lorente opened a wine store in Roma Norte three years ago – after 22 years in the import business – with the aim of offering a public face to his hospitality clients. Second-generation José shares his father’s passion for wine, bringing small, terroir-driven, mostly Spanish (but dabbling in French and Portuguese) organic and biodynamic producers to Mexico City’s wine lovers. Stand-outs gems include Conca del Riu Anoia sparkling wine aged for more than 100 months on the lees. At his cool-looking venue – that cellars about 500 labels and doubles up as a bar – José is often found cracking open bottles to serve by the glass at the small counter, creating a jovial ambience also fuelled by delectable Spanish charcuterie.

Sinaloa 74, Roma Norte

Loro Loco

This newcomer to CDMX’s scene opened in January 2025 and comes with a solid spirits pedigree: co-founder Ali Kurshat Altinsoy used to be global brand director for the unconventional Danish Empirical Spirits distillery. Loro Loco (crazy parrot) is a Mexican-focused off-licence packed with gems such as agave spirits, labels from Baja California wineries, sotol (a distillate made from the desert spoon shrub) and vermouth. The sleek décor invites sophisticated drinkers looking to sample carefully crafted produce from food and drink artisans, such as Cinco Sentidos mezcaleros, and hang out in style.

65 Mérida, Roma Norte | @lorolocomx

Charco at Comedor de los Milagros

A colourful storefront tucked inside Comedor de los Milagros, a buzzy Latin American food hall, Charco keeps its focus clear: only Latin American pours on offer. The venue is the brainchild of owner and vermouth producer Marcos Di Battista, who also co-runs Handshake Speakeasy, named world’s best bar by 50 Best in 2024. Charco not only stocks Charco’s own-name Blanc de Noir, made with Malbec cultivated in Hidalgo state, but also other small local producers such as the female-led Pouya winery based out of Guadalupe Valley, Baja California. Whether you perch yourself at the counter for a glass or buy a bottle to take away, be ready to drink Latin American.

Calle Medellín 22, Colonia Roma

Si Mon

With a focus on all-things Mexican – wine, tequila, mezcal and beer – and a cosy décor, Si Mon is both warm and welcoming. Friendly staff are happy to help with recommendations and open different by-the-glass options each day. With close to 200 labels – including an extensive natural wine section and a unicorn melipona (a stingless bee) sparkling wine, Si Mon showcases Mexico’s regional and stylistic diversity, from Valle de Guadalupe’s Sauvignon Blancs and Nebbiolos to buoyant Cabernets from Guanajuato. Find yourself a stool at the counter or window, or grab a table for a more private group gathering.

Zacatecas 126, Roma Norte | @vinos_simon

Plonk

One of Mexico City’s hippest wine bars, Plonk has picked up a slew of awards since opening in 2023. A female-led establishment, star sommelier Romina Argüelles is in charge of the wine selection while chef Flor Camorlinga oversees the menu. Camorlinga applies her Asian culinary techniques to Mexican ingredients to create small plates for sharing. Plonk attracts an international crowd after world wines made by small producers – think René Bouvier’s red Burgundy or skin contact Mtsvane Pheasant Tears from Kakheti (Georgia) – that flocks to the coveted counter seats. But there’s also great buzz at outside tables. Bottles are available either to drink in or take home.

Iztaccihuatl 52, Condesa | @plonk.mx

La Naval

One of CDMX’s longest established drinks retailer, La Naval has been selling world wines to a thirsty public since 1932. With almost 600 reds and 200 whites in its portfolio, you can pick up both Old and New World gems from one of the eight locations around the capital city. La Naval also supports Mexican labels, with 175 in the portfolio that illuminates Baja California and also showcases varieties from other regions such as Syrah from Coahuila and red blends from the Encinillas Valley in the state of Chihuahua.

Insurgentes Sur 373, Hipódromo

Rimessa

This cosy yet well-stocked vinoteca in the Hipódromo neighbourhood, follows the natural wine trend and stocks labels from around the world. Pass through the royal blue and shocking pink façade and ask the knowledgeable staff to guide you through the vintages. They are especially happy to talk up Mexican natural wine movement’s leaders, such as Valle de Guadalupe’s Radicante, Viñas del Tigre and Vinos Pijoan. Look out for regular tastings featuring Mexican vínicolas as well as Old World producers. Plonk’s Romina Argüelles is a friend of the house and sometimes lends her expertise to host a tasting.

Amsterdam 26, Hipódromo | @rimessavinos

Hugo

A stylish wine bar, Hugo holds strong hands in curvaceous design and natural hues, as well as Mexican and European low-intervention wines. Pull up a stool at the green bar and watch as flocks of the 140 labels, in particular skin contact wines, fly out to a die-hard natural wine-loving international clientele. As well as creating a decent by-the-glass and magnum selection, co-owners Isabel Castillo and Thierry Chouquet show equal love for the food menu. Order small plates for sharing: stand-out light bites are Cerignola olives or Sol Azul oysters, while tasty pork schnitzel and beef tongue make for heartier options.

Veracruz 38, Roma Norte

Masala y Maíz

Named for the spice mix and corn, Norma Listman and Saqib Keval bridge their respective Mexican and Indian heritages to give cultural significance to their venue. Their cuisine sets the pace in terms of design and esthetics – backed by an electrifying soundtrack – at their trendy Centro restaurant. Their sustainable approach applies to a wine list dedicated to global low-intervention labels – tantalisingly categorised as Naughty Bubbles, or Weird, Tasty and Sexy, and spanning hip regions such as Sicily and Jura – paired with hip creations such as goldenberry ceviche and Kuku poussin. Order Radical, the house wine, a Grenache and Chenin Blanc blend made in collaboration with Guadalupe Valley winemaker Silvana Pijoan. Bottles to take out are sold at discounted prices.

Calle Artículo 123 #116 local 2, Colonia Centro

NIV

Since opening in 2023, NIV has caused rather a sensation for inspiring wine lovers to imbibe in an analogue-forward ambience. Vinyls set the musical pace while flickering candles wedged into wax-laden green bottles illuminate this Condesa wine bar; bronze ice buckets are another alluring part of the decor. The focus is on small European producers but also nods to Mexican labels. The low-intervention philosophy means you should expect plenty of skin contact wines to be enjoyed with steak frites and beef carpaccio. NIV often doubles up as a contemporary art gallery, hosting exhibitions supporting local artists.

Atlixco 132, Condesa | @nivbar.mx

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Covering the austral section of South America, spanning the southernmost areas of Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is a region of extreme, diverse landscapes.

Strong winds and wide diurnal temperature ranges make it a challenging yet appealing place for viticulture – it’s certainly not for the faint of heart.

The region’s breathtaking terroirs yield both singular expressions of the countries’ more popular grapes and unlikely South American iterations of varieties mostly associated with classic cold-climate regions.

Without the sheltering effect of the Andes mountains, strong winds blow unhindered. Meanwhile, high latitudes expose the vines to intense UV radiation throughout the growing season’s long days.

These conditions tease grapes into producing thicker skins while developing diverse aromatic compounds, and the bitterly cold nights help to preserve acidity.

Put it all together and you have a winemaker’s dream – for those willing to embrace the challenge.

Scroll down for notes and scores of 12 polished wines from rugged Patagonia

Precocious complexity

Due to its trying natural conditions, as well as its remoteness, Patagonia is a geography in which viticulture at scale isn’t easily profitable – or, in some areas, even possible.

Hence the region draws winemakers with an appetite for the unique, the unusual and the hard-won.

The singular, world-class wines the region produces have made it one of South America’s most alluring.

But the attention it draws is in inverse proportion to its area under vine, representing less than 2% of Argentina’s vineyards (data for Chilean Patagonia aren’t available).

‘Many ask me whether I see a great future for Patagonia wines. My reply is: no,’ says Felipe Tosso, who, as chief winemaker at Ventisquero, has led the inception of Kosten, the Chilean group’s foray into Patagonia and, at 46.3°S, the world’s southernmost vineyard (at Chile Chico on the southern shore of Lake General Carrera, and right next to the border with Argentina).

‘There is a tiny – but fantastic – future: outstanding wines from small projects. In such dramatic terroir, the vines achieve a superior potential, even at a young age.’

Juan Pablo Murgia, of Otronia, concurs: ‘We see the balance of old vines in young plants. The way vines adapt to the Patagonian conditions is incredible.’

Preserving memory

Most of Patagonia’s vineyards are located in the Argentine provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén with 3,341ha split between the two. Further south, over and beyond the 45th parallel, the province of Chubut accounts for a mere 117ha.

Extreme viticulture notwithstanding, some of the biggest challenges of making wine in Patagonia are operational.

Far away from the main viticultural and commercial hubs, it’s not easy to consolidate resources or find skilled staff.

Many projects are, therefore, intriguing offshoots of established brands based in better-known regions – wines that reflect a desire to explore other realms of possibility, articulate a different oenologic vocabulary and acknowledge a more diverse past… and future.

For Matías Riccitelli, the maverick winemaker best known for his namesake project in Mendoza’s Luján de Cuyo, making wine in Patagonia emerged as a way to harness a unique and overlooked ‘climatic and patrimonial potential’.

As Mendoza established itself as Argentina’s wine-producing core and settlers stopped producing wine for self-consumption, the vineyards of northern Patagonia lost their appeal, resulting in a patchwork of old, ungrafted plots of myriad varieties.

Riccitelli sees his Patagonian range as part of an effort to preserve an important part of South American wine heritage, as well as a unique genetic diversity: ‘We have inimitable terroirs with a singular climate and incredible clonal diversity of different varieties (and also field blends) with a long – sometimes forgotten – history here. They produce wines with a particular expressiveness.’

Beyond known limits

Further south, in Chubut and Chilean Patagonia, winemakers are pushing the known limits of viticulture, planting in areas never before considered suitable for vines.

Murgia (pictured, above), head winemaker at Mendoza’s Bodega Argento, was forced to question his experience and learnings when leading the establishment of Otronia, a sibling project in Sarmiento, Chubut, at 45.6°S, more than 1,100km south of Patagonia’s northern edge.

‘I had to learn a new type of viticulture – of cold and winds,’ he says.

Since its first commercial vintage in 2017, Otronia has been consistently producing award-winning wines. Murgia unassumingly attributes the quality of the wines to the outstanding, if relatively meagre, fruit Patagonia yields.

‘Patagonia is synonymous with beauty and singularity, which translate into the unique character of the wines,’ he says.

‘This, along with the many challenges of wine production [in the region], means that there’s little sense producing anything but top wines.’

Tosso echoes this feeling and admits that succeeding in Patagonia immediately puts winemakers in a different league.

‘Making wine in such challenging conditions is hard and expensive. To see our efforts validated by the quality of the wines feels like a great achievement,’ he concludes.

Tosso likewise stresses the focus and self-assurance needed to grow grapes in Patagonia.

While he can plan for harvest with a degree of comfort for other Ventisquero wines, at Kosten, experience and planning only go so far: with frost always imminent, decisions need to be made quickly and determinedly – and often remotely.

Patagonia’s wines might be hard-won for producers and consumers alike, but, like the region’s landscapes, they afford experiences that are worth the willingness to embark on an unexpected, memorable journey.

Taste of the wild: A fascinating 12 from Patagonia

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The World Heritage-listed city of Cuzco (Cusco), high in the Peruvian Andes, is the former capital of the Incan empire, one of the most extraordinary civilisations in the Americas.

Modern Cuzco is a chaos of colour, mammoth stonework and terracotta roof tiles. The very existence of this populous city at 3,400m elevation, surrounded by the extreme Andes mountains, beggars belief. It’s no wonder that people have been drawn to Cuzco for centuries; the Killke, then the Incas, followed by the conquistadores and now droves of international tourists.

Cuzco is one of the most-visited cities in Peru; together with the surrounding Sacred Valley, it’s on the bucket list of most wanderlust travellers. The ancient citadel of Machu Picchu is most certainly one of the great highlights, but so are the temples and plazas of Pisaq (Pisac), the fortress town of Ollantaytambo, the salt mines of Maras and the ancient terraces of Moray.

Cuzco and the Sacred Valley have long been a palaeophile’s dream, but they are now also a destination for wine lovers and gourmands, offering some of the most authentic taste experiences in Peru.

A gourmand’s route through the Sacred Valley

Local ingredients

Following a boom in gourmet indigenous cuisine in Peru’s capital, the chefs of Lima have been taking regular pilgrimages to Cuzco to source native ingredients from the Andes. Through foraging with locals and building a deeper connection with the place, several exciting new gastronomy projects have unfurled within the Sacred Valley.

Relais & Chateaux’s Sol y Luna was the original luxury digs in the region, with 43 beautiful casitas. It was also one of the first to put haute cuisine on the menu. Under the direction of Diego Muñoz, one of Peru’s most celebrated chefs, the two restaurants here, Killa Wasi and Wayra, take inspiration from Peruvian classics but with an international twist; think fried cuy (guinea pig) and local lamb ragù, paired with South American wines.

A newcomer to the Sacred Valley is the beautifully restored Alqa Museum, whose restaurant is making waves with its ‘gastronomic laboratory’. It elevates local ingredients in a playful tasting menu, focused on one key ingredient per course and paired with Peruvian wines. The experience is best enjoyed in the gorgeous garden overlooking the incredible ruins of Ollantaytambo.

Tradition and research

But nothing can hold a candle to the intense investigation underway at Virgilio Martínez’s MIL restaurant and research centre. At 3,568m elevation, the location is breathtaking in both altitude and situation, located right next to the ancient terraced amphitheatre of Moray. The Incas used the different levels and microclimates of each terrace to test the suitability of different cultivations and crops at different altitudes in the Andes.

It is fitting that this ancient ‘greenhouse’ now sits beside the test kitchen of MIL, where Virgilio’s head chef Luis Valderrama Silva and his team take diners on a journey through the complex and inviting world of Andean ingredients, flavours and customs. Dishes like Corn Diversity, showing every part and possible texture of a cob of corn, are a work of art. Each course is paired with a beverage – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options — that take you far beyond the realm of Peruvian wines and into the mad world of beverage director Diego Vasquez Luqu. He and his team create ferments and drinks out of everything from cacao wine to carob kombucha.

The ultimate foodie experience is MIL’s Immersion menu, a five-hour experience that begins bright and early, foraging with locals for indigenous ingredients. Out here, in the wilderness of the mountain landscape, you can more fully grasp the achievement of cultivating tens of thousands of species of tubers, amaranths, grains and legumes that have enriched the world’s pantry today. To then taste the fruit of these centuries of labour within the tasting menu at MIL is a humbling experience.

The cherry on the cake for any gourmand visiting the Sacred Valley is taking the Belmond Hiram Bingham train to Machu Picchu. It cuts out the blisters and hiking boots usually required, and offers another once-in-a-lifetime experience along the way. There’s a certain Old World charm to travelling on a vintage train, with each private booth smartly adorned in white linen tablecloths and polished brass lamps. The view is New World in all its glory, of the majestic Andes mountains transitioning to the lush fringes of the Amazon jungle.

A constant soundtrack of live music keeps the journey upbeat and joyful, from Peruvian folk as you board, to pop and rock as you dance the night away on return – all aided by the free-flowing Pisco Sours, cocktails and Champagne from the train bar. The kitchen is led by renowned Peruvian chef Jorge Muñoz; brunch and dinner are traditional Peruvian fare paired with Peruvian wines. Only a train journey such as this could compete with the splendour of Machu Picchu.

My perfect day in Cuzco

Morning

My perfect morning definitely starts with a lie-in, to recover from the altitude or Sacred Valley sightseeing the day before. Exploring the streets of high-altitude Cuzco is breathtaking work, but this is a city best explored on foot, to enjoy the incredible pre-Columbian structures woven together with colonial architecture between narrow cobblestone streets. Start with a top-notch speciality coffee from Three Monkeys Cafe, then walk around the city, exploring the markets, plazas, churches, palaces and cathedral.

Afternoon

For lunch, it has to be Oqre, a secret oasis tucked away in a beautiful old monastery. Jorge Muñoz is the consultant chef, and the gyozas of adobo (spicy pork stew) are unmissable — order two plates, you won’t regret it! While away a couple hours in the peaceful inner sanctum of the Monasterio, where Quechua women do their crafts peacefully in the passageways.

If you’re still wandering around the city’s sights, grab a quick, healthy bite at Qura before continuing to explore. In the afternoon, head to the markets and galleries — Xapiri Ground in the artistic neighbourhood of San Blas, is a personal favourite.

Evening

Peruvian chef Pía León is one of the most exciting chefs to follow in Peru today. Her tasting menu at Mauka is a delightful way to explore the biodiversity of the Peruvian Andes through a procession of mouthwatering dishes; get there early to enjoy at least one of the fabulous pre-dinner cocktails. After dinner, it is just a couple blocks to Oculto, the best wine bar in town. A real hole-in-the-wall spot, Oculto champions the natural wines of Peru and Latin America in a low-key atmosphere, accompanied by some delicious bites (in the unlikely event that you are still hungry).

Wineries & drinks experiences

Some of the very first vines in Peru were planted near Cuzco, in a bid by the Spanish to conquer and settle at the heart of the Incan empire. Those vineyards didn’t last long in such a challenging environment, but a small handful of brave vignerons are now reviving Peru’s high-altitude wine industry with new vines and promising projects.

The most successful to date is Apu, a venture by Peruvian Fernando Gonzales-Lattini and his American wife Meg McFarland, in Curahuasi, around 50km (as the crow flies) from Machu Picchu. Making striking Sauvignon Blanc, characterful Sangiovese and small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, the wines reflect the extreme terroir, with vibrant acidity and intense fruit – they are quite unlike other wines. Visit by appointment, or taste the wines at the restaurants of husband-and-wife duo Virglio Martinez (MIL and Central) and Pía León (Mauka and Kjolle), who have snapped up almost the entire production.

What does grow here with ease and abundance are tubers. Peru is the birthplace of the potato, but also the oca. Multi-generational farmer Manuel Choqque has spent 15 years cultivating and selecting super-species of both tubers in the Sacred Valley, developing a fascinating drinks portfolio from them. A visit to his new tasting room and laboratory is mind-blowing — not only for the finesse and vinous quality of his oca wines (white, rosé, red and orange!) but also for opening your mind to the fascinating possibilities of tubers.

Another thirst-quenching stop in the Sacred Valley is the distillery and tasting room of Destilería Andina, founded by former New York lawyer Haresh Bhojwani and hotelier Joaquin Randall in the charming Incan settlement of Ollantaytambo. The spirits are produced from high-altitude Amazonian sugarcane with local herbs, flowers and bitters; they have quickly become some of the most sought-after spirits in Peru. Bhojwani and Randall also own Chuncho, a restaurant in town offering brilliant cocktails from the spirits. Sample Andean craft brews at Cervecería del Valle Sagrado, just a stone’s throw away.

How to get there / around

Direct flights from major European and US airports arrive in Lima. From there it’s an 80-minute flight to Cusco – or a 24-hour bus ride, but the winding mountain roads aren’t for the faint hearted. Within the Sacred Valley, hire a private taxi driver or take the train to Machu Picchu, with several town stops en route.

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In the rugged, windswept plains of Patagonia, where vineyards cling to the banks of the snaking Río Negro, an unlikely partnership has flourished.

Jean-Marc Roulot, a sixth-generation vigneron from Meursault in Burgundy, and Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, grandson of the visionary behind Tuscany’s legendary Sassicaia, came together in Argentina to craft world-class Chardonnay.

Their collaboration, rooted in friendship and a shared sense of adventure, blends centuries of tradition with a bold leap into the unknown.

Scroll down to see notes and scores of five exquisite Bodega Chacra Chardonnays

While their family legacies precede them – the mastery of Burgundy whites passed down to Jean-Marc and Piero’s inheritance of Tuscan innovation – this partnership brings a surprising twist: a commitment to making some of the world’s finest Chardonnay in the uncharted terroir of southern Argentina.

They make a compelling duo. Piero is an extrovert, brimming with Italian charisma and charm, while Jean-Marc is thoughtful and introspective, his responses shaped by decades of careful observation as a renowned stage and screen actor.

Yet, their differences complement one another, united by a shared hunger for discovery and an unwavering pursuit of perfection.

The story of how these two wine-world titans found themselves in Patagonia is as captivating as the wines themselves.

Forging a new friendship

Piero’s and Jean-Marc’s paths first crossed in the early 2000s. At the time, Piero was living in New York, immersed in its vibrant wine scene.

Having befriended many of the top sommeliers, he often joined them on buying trips to Burgundy. By then, Jean-Marc had already solidified his reputation as one of Burgundy’s most celebrated vignerons.

After taking over Domaine Roulot in 1989 following his father’s untimely death, he transformed it into one of Meursault’s most prestigious estates, renowned for its pure, expressive Chardonnays.

Unsurprisingly, Roulot’s wines were high on the wishlists of US sommeliers, and it wasn’t long before Piero and Jean-Marc formed a bond.

‘We became friends because of our shared family wine heritage and, of course, the common language,’ recalls Piero, a polyglot fluent in four languages.

While Jean-Marc was deeply rooted in Burgundy’s storied vineyards, Piero was forging a very different path. Eschewing the familiar comforts of Tuscany, he ventured to Patagonia, where he acquired an abandoned estate in the Río Negro valley.

It was a daring move, reviving old Pinot Noir vines in one of the world’s most remote winemaking regions – a gamble that didn’t go unnoticed by Jean-Marc.

‘When I tasted Piero’s Pinot Noir from Patagonia, I could see he was doing the opposite of what I expected from a Pinot Noir from South America,’ says Jean-Marc. ‘I trusted his focus from the start.’

See Amanda Barnes MW’s notes and scores for Bodega Chakra’s latest-release Pinot Noirs

A proposition

Their friendship took an unexpected turn over a wine-fuelled dinner with friends. When Piero casually mentioned his desire to produce Chardonnay at Chacra, Jean-Marc jokingly replied, ‘Why don’t you ask me?’

What began as a quip quickly became a serious proposition, spurred on by mutual friends encouraging them both to take the leap.

‘I wasn’t ready,’ Piero admits. ‘It was one thing having Jean-Marc visit Sassicaia, an already illustrious vineyard, but the idea of bringing someone of his calibre to Chacra was daunting. I felt an enormous responsibility. Were we good enough?’

Jean-Marc, on the other hand, was ready. Having already broken conventions in Burgundy, he was eager for a new challenge. Though deeply rooted in Meursault, he had begun to entertain the idea of making wine beyond his estate.

Offers from other regions, including Mâcon, had come his way, but none truly captured his imagination.

‘To make wine in Mâcon wasn’t an adventure – of course it would have been different, but it was too close to home. Patagonia, on the other hand, was something completely different. It was an adventure.’

By 2016, the project was underway. Chardonnay was grafted onto old Merlot rootstocks at the Mainqué estate and Jean-Marc officially joined the partnership. The following year, Bodega Chacra had its first vintage of Chardonnay.

On the edge of the world

The distance between Meursault and Mainqué spans 11,926km – and the two are worlds apart in winemaking realities.

Mainqué, nestled in the Río Negro valley, boasts a unique terroir of old vines and cool desert winds, offering an environment as untamed as it is promising for fine Chardonnay. But Patagonia’s isolation presents undeniable challenges.

‘In Beaune, you have everything you need at your fingertips,’ Jean-Marc notes. ‘In Mainqué, you have nothing – if the press breaks, the harvest stops.’

This reality became painfully clear during their first harvest together when the electricity cut out, bringing everything to a standstill. For Jean-Marc, who places meticulous importance on press techniques, it was nothing short of catastrophic.

‘He asked me when it was coming back. I said, “I have no idea, we just have to wait!”,’ Piero recalls with a nervous laugh. By the next harvest, Piero had a generator waiting for Jean-Marc’s arrival – a precaution that has since expanded to three generators on the estate.

Learning curve

It has been a learning curve for both winemakers, but one they’ve embraced as a journey of discovery, driven by their shared commitment to organic viticulture and a deep respect for the land.

‘Every year, we change something – brick by brick,’ Jean-Marc reflects, clearly relishing the challenge. ‘I think it takes at least 10 vintages to become comfortable. I couldn’t just copy and paste my Chardonnay programme from Burgundy, but with time, I have felt more confident with how to approach this terroir’s wines.’

Now, eight vintages in, the wines reflect Jean-Marc’s growing confidence in Patagonia, where he spends a month each year working closely with Piero and the team.

The Mainqué range offers vibrant, approachable wines with tangy salinity and verve, balanced with appealing, fresh fruit that makes them enjoyable now.

The Chacra line, on the other hand, is more complex, with powerful length and textural layers that hint at its ageing potential, teasing you for opening the bottle too soon.

The precision and purity already in the bottle are a remarkable testament to the evolving synergy between the winemakers.

A human adventure

For Piero, having Jean-Marc’s experienced palate at Chacra is invaluable. ‘The feedback he provides is irreplaceable,’ Piero says.

For Jean-Marc, Chacra has offered something equally profound – it has rekindled a connection to nature that he feels that Burgundy has lost. ‘In Chacra, nature is still working – you feel it,’ he says. ‘The light, the air, the animals. It’s a reminder of what we once had in Meursault. We need to learn to reconnect.’

The wines, too, reflect this special connection that both Jean-Marc and Piero feel with the rugged landscapes of Patagonia and with each other.

‘It’s rare to find a peer you can work with in this way,’ Piero reflects. ‘This partnership is about trust, friendship and laughter – a lot of laughter. It’s about the enrichment that comes from truly working together.’

Their unexpected partnership proves that great wine is not only a product of the land – it’s the result of shared dreams, respect and a touch of adventure. As Jean-Marc puts it, ‘It’s not just about the wine. It’s about the human adventure behind it.’

Patagonian partnership: The Chacra style in five Chardonnays

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The Michelin constellation shines ever more brightly in Argentina following the release of the country’s second report. The gastronomy guide, which included 25 new entries across categories – three new flagship stars, three Bib Gourmands, three green stars and 16 recommended – confirmed that Buenos Aires and Mendoza, the two regions covered by the guide, take sustainability and eco-responsibility seriously. The up-and-coming generation of chefs and sommeliers also proved their mettle.

Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guide, noted the inspectors had been enchanted by the local gastronomy scene. ‘They continue to discover that Argentina emphasises each establishment’s personality, signalling great professionalism, growing concern for eco-responsibility and renewing the value of Argentina’s best products,’ he said.

Excellence consolidated

The Michelin Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2025 was unveiled at an event held at Susana Balbo Wines, in Perdriel, Mendoza. A total of 80 venues – 56 in Buenos Aires and 24 in Mendoza – made the cut, boosted by the exciting line up of new entries.

All of the six restaurants awarded one Michelin star in 2024 breathed a sigh of relief s their names were announced again.

They were joined by three new one-starred establishments.

Known for its oyster bar and seafood-driven menu, Crizia, the Buenos Aires restaurant led by husband-and-wife team Gabriel Oggero and Geraldine Gastaldo, followed up 2024’s green star with a red one – a fortunate recognition as the venue celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

Oggero’s former head chef Juan Ventureyra attained the same honours in Mendoza at Riccitelli Bistró, at Matias Riccitelli Wines, in Las Compuertas.

Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, led by dynamic young duo Josefina Diana and Juan Manuel Feijoo, also upped its game with its own set of green and red stars. Alongside Casa Vigil, which also falls under the Catena umbrella, Angélica Cocina Maestra has taken the renowned winery’s haul to four stars, the most of any group.

The full list list of one-starred restaurants in Argentina is now as follows:

• Angélica Cocina Maestra at Catena Zapata, Mendoza
• Azafrán, Mendoza
• Brindillas, Mendoza
• Casa Vigil at Bodega El Enemigo, Mendoza
• Crizia, Buenos Aires
• Parrilla Don Julio, Buenos Aires
• Riccitelli Bistró, Mendoza
• Trescha, Buenos Aires
• Zonda Cocina de Paisaje at Bodega Lagarde, Mendoza

Lonely at the top

Meanwhile, Aramburu, located in Buenos Aire’s Recoleta neighbourhood, renewed its lonely two-star status. Chef Gonzalo Aramburu’s 18-course tasting experience impressed inspectors again with a combination of technical ability, dramatic presentation and outstanding ingredients.

Young age, mature talent

In the individual categories, young talent cleaned up and confirmed a bright future for the Argentine wine & dine scene. Nicolás Tykocki of Ácido was, at the tender age of 27, named Best Young Chef for his daring and skilful approach, merging international influences, including Korean, Lebanese, Turkish, Chinese and Spanish.

The sommelier duo Elena Cabrera and Leonel Castro Ortiz jointly received the Michelin Sommelier award for their enthusiastic work at one-star Trescha, underscoring Chef Tomás Treschanski’s ‘test kitchen’ philosophy..

Capital value

The coveted ‘great value’ Bib Gourmand nods continue to elude Mendoza establishments and were solely awarded in Buenos Aires. With the addition of Ácido, Ajo Negro and MN Santa Inés, the capital’s total Big Gourmand roster rose to 10.

MN Santa Inés, led by chef Jazmín Marturet, was a welcome surprise. Operating out of a former industrial bakery, in Buenos Aires’ offbeat Paternal neighbourhood, that Maruret renovated with her father, MN Santa Inés offering was singled out by inspectors ‘for its international and eclectic flavours’.

16 other venues, including a host of 2024 openings, were added to the guide’s ‘selected restaurants’ list. These include Ultramarinos, in a second Michlin nod for chef Maxi Rossi of Picarón fame; Michel Rolland Grill & Wine, a concept built around the cellar and tasted of the renowned oenology consultant; La Vid at Bodega Norton; and Martino Wines, at the eponymous winery in Mendoza. Osadía de Crear at Susana Balbo Wines added a green star to its guide entry.

The growth and diversity of this year’s edition attests to the vibrancy and evolution of the Argentine hospitality industry, consolidating its status – alongside fierce competition from some of its neighbours – as a culinary powerhouse.

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Valle de Guadalupe, a 90-minute drive south of San Diego, California, has winemaking roots in the 17th century and accounts for about 80% of Mexico’s total wine production. The region is still on the rise internationally. Today, the valley is home to more than 150 wineries.

One of its top names is tucked away amid vineyards and olive groves just off the dusty roads that lead through the heart of Valle de Guadalupe’s wine route.

Set against the dramatic desert landscape, with views of the Sierra Blanca mountain range, El Cielo, both a winery and luxury resort, boasts 95 modern villas and suites positioned around two reservoirs. The bucolic grounds are complete with a swimming pool and chapel with multiple gardens, all located in the middle of the estate’s vineyards.

Valle de Guadalupe

Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe is located on the Baja Peninsula, a blend of desert landscape and Pacific Ocean-cooled evenings has created a vinous sweet-spot where many varieties can be found. While the region has ancient roots dating to Spanish missionaries and an influx of Russian immigrants in the early 1990s, the fine wine revival of the Valle de Guadalupe dates to the early 2000s, as by the late 1990s there were only a handful of wineries still in business.

The revival has resulted in a very diverse set of offerings. There’s long been a love of bigger, more robust red wines of the 1980s Napa Valley or Rioja style and today, the region also hangs its hat on a developing natural wine culture and plenty of youthful experimenting, along with wines of a lighter, fresher style that pair perfectly with Mexican cuisine.

A drive through the valley shows old gnarled bush vines, many of which are Chenin Blanc, one of the earliest signature varieties of Valle de Guadalupe and a variety that sits among the top, most classic expressions now being made by some of the valley’s wineries.

A brilliant food culture

Mexico has one of the world’s greatest food cultures, in my opinion.

There are three Michelin-starred restaurants in the Valle de Guadalupe. El Cielo boasts two fantastic restaurants of its own, which specialise in a Baja-Yucatan fusion cuisine with a hyper-modern twist. Latitud 32, at the winery, is Michelin Guide-recommended, and Polaris, above the resort offices, offers delicious and fresh Mexican cuisine.

The Baja-Yucatan menu blends the two peninsulas brilliantly. It offers ample seafood offerings like the Mayan ceviche – a mix of octopus, white fish and shrimp, served with perfect citrus and habanero spiced freshness – to the shaved oysters with the traditional fresh and spicy Yucatan salsa, xnipec. Slow-roasted short ribs and pork belly tacos are cooked patiently and balanced with fresh regional sauces and salsas.

Polaris is tucked into the resort’s office building, with a rooftop balcony and delightfully fresh Mexican breakfasts, including delicious eggs with chilaquiles, and is a great way to start your day of wine tasting on a full stomach.

Accommodation

Each of El Cielo’s villas offers two types of accommodation, or you can rent out an entire villa.

Enjoy modern luxury in the junior suites, on the upper floors with a furnished terrace complete with views of the mountains, lake and vineyards.

The master suite takes up the spacious ground floor, with one bedroom, a whirlpool tub in the spacious modern bathroom and a dining room and living room big enough to entertain up to eight guests. There’s a furnished patio with a gas fireplace to watch the sunset, and the El Cielo team delivers s’mores kits each evening.

The wines

Owner Gustavo Ortega Joaquín had initially planned to open a small bed and breakfast in wine country, inspired by his travels in the Loire Valley. A visit to Mexico’s top wine region turned his plans on their head, and Ortega Joaquín found himself opening a winery first, in 2013.

The wines are among Mexico’s finest. Winemaker Jesús Rivera melds his considerable talents with a spare-no-expense approach in the cellar. The result speaks for itself: Rivera is crafting Mexican-made wines with a global appeal. From a traditional method sparkling Chardonnay to a brilliantly crafted Nebbiolo, the wines have great balance and refreshingly low abvs, making them ideally suited for food pairing.

The winery has a tasting room, wine bar and private cellar, and guests can enjoy barrel room tours and vineyard exploration and tasting via golf carts. They can create their own wines in a blending class or meet the vineyard’s raptors, which are part of its sustainability programme.

Arrangements can be made via concierge to visit the rest of the Valle de Guadalupe, most of it within an hour’s drive, or the seaside town of Ensenada, 20km away.

For further information, see the El Cielo, Valle de Guadalupe website.

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April 14th was the date chosen in Uruguay to celebrate Tannat, the country’s flagship grape variety. It was on that day, in 1984, that viticulturalist Pascual Harriague passed away; the annual celebration pays tribute to the Basque immigrant (b. 1819) that played a decisive role in the introduction and propagation of Tannat in the South American country that became its second – but arguably better – home .

Although best known as the raw material for Gascony’s flagship red wines, under the Madiran AOC (where regulations require that it comprises 60-80% of the vineyard area), Tannat is indeed thought to have its origins in the Basque Country rather than South West France.

During the flux of Spanish immigrants to South America in the 19th century, Basque settlers brought cuttings of the variety which thrived in Uruguay, delivering lighter, less muscular expression than its southern French counterparts.

Elegance revealed

As the name suggests, Tannat used to be defined by its tannin and pigment charge, with which winemakers historically struggled. The variety therefore earned a reputation for producing inky, powerful, rustic reds, with intense savouriness and spiciness (liquorice, cardamom, nutmeg, moca) over luscious black fruit. In South West France it is still often blended with Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, and benefits from at least five years in the cellar to tame its power.

Uruguay’s Atlantic-kissed iterations, on the other hand, revealed a finer, more detailed side of Tannat, with softer tannins and finer acid underpinning the black and ripe red fruit.

Not bound to tradition (or legislation) and more willing to experiment, Uruguayan producers took greater creative license with blends – Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah are regular companions – and winemaking techniques, expanding Tannat’s stylistic vocabulary. This in turn catalysed a reappreciation of Tannat’s potential in France, in the last decade of the 20th century.

Versatility discovered

In the dawn of the 21st century, winemakers on both sides of the Atlantic leveraged greater winemaking knowledge to rediscover and reinterpret Tannat with a lighter hand in the cellar.

Shorter macerations, less time in oak and different fermentation vessels helped to craft more refined Tannats across an exciting variety of styles – from vibrant pét-nats to truly fine reds.

Remaining true to its essence and identity, Madiran (along with neighbouring Saint-Mont) remains a source of intense, concentrated Tannat-based blends of pleasant rusticity and savoury intensity. But producers are also exploring more approachable glu-glu wines, not least by using carbonic maceration to produce soft, fruit-led styles.

Tannat remains Uruguay’s most-planted grape variety and it’s no doubt synonymous with the country’s winemaking history.

The exciting quality evolution the country has experienced in the last couple of decades has seen a steady and diverse output of Tannats, with nods both to new trends (with lower intervention wines of great energy and verve) and the traditional lineage of many of Uruguayan wineries (of which the Ripasso style below is a perfect example).

If you like red wine, there will be a Tannat for you. It’s a worthy journey of discovery. The terroir expressiveness and versatility of the variety make it a great way to learn about the different countries and regions where it grows. And a great way to assess the ability of producers – especially when the same winemaker has a go at different approaches and styles.

The wines below are a good starting point.

Tannat Day – different styles to try:

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Peter Richards MW, Ben Gubbins and Andrew Johnson tasted 137 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 26 Highly Recommended

Value South American reds: Panel tasting scores

137 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 26

Recommended 92

Commended 15

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their still, dry red wines from any region and classification in South America with a maximum retail price of £17/US$22

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from the value South American reds panel tasting

Sweeping generalisations are risky in a smorgasbord tasting, but after appraising 137 wines, the overall feeling among the judges was positive.

With more than 20% of the wines scoring 90 points or more, four Outstanding wines and 89% of the wines Recommended or higher, there’s clearly real value to be found in South American reds.

Chile delivered most (69) of the entries and also many of the highlights. As Ben Gubbins said: ‘At a price point where Chile has been pilloried for being identikit and boring, these wines were anything but. Within each variety, there was real diversity between regions, which was impressive.’

Pinot Noir and Syrah were highlights, especially those from coastal and southerly regions, which offered fresher, elegant styles.

‘Syrah was a real standout,’ commented Andrew Johnson, ‘and I liked the purity of many of the Pinots, which over-delivered for this price category. The future looks bright.’

Chilean Carmenère turned in a solid, if hardly thrilling performance and it was a similar story with the Cabernets, save for a couple of exceptional wines that allied perfume and structure with drinkability.

Divergent paths

For Johnson, too many Chilean Cabernets were ‘chunky and blocky’. Fresher styles of Carignan, Garnacha, Malbec and Cinsault impressed, though.

Gubbins identified two divergent streams of Argentine Malbec: ‘One was extracted and surprisingly tannic, the other was balanced, well crafted and intriguing.’

The best expressions delivered captivating aromatic complexity (floral, peppery, brooding fruit) with deft integration on the palate. These wines were, to quote Johnson, ‘beautiful’.

Uruguay sported modest numbers and results, the best a creditable Marselan and some characterful Tannat, for which Gubbins identified some ‘smart winemaking’.

Overall, there was much here not just to like, but also to excite. Winemakers managed to deliver characterful, charming wines at these prices, and the judges urged more of the same, singling out regions such as Patagonia and Itata.

‘Really promising,’ summed up Johnson.

What to eat with South American reds, by Fiona Beckett

This tasting covered a wide range of grape varieties and styles, so it’s hard to generalise in terms of food pairings, but there’s a common thread in the wines, which is bright, upfront fruit.

In food terms, that means they can handle bold flavours, a fair bit of spice and cuisines and styles of cooking where several dishes are served at the same time – at a barbecue, for instance.

There are, of course, characteristics of each type of wine that will lead you towards particular ingredients and types of dishes. For example, it’s hard to go wrong serving Pinot Noir with duck or – lightly chilled – with grilled salmon or tuna; Cabernet is a classic for a good burger or grilled portobello mushrooms; and Malbec is an obvious contender for steak and chips.

Or maybe break new ground with Carmenère and a lamb curry, especially if it includes coriander.

Value South American reds panel tasting results

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile. A well-known broadcaster and writer, he co-created and presents wine and travel series The Wild Side of Wine and is co-host of the awarded Wine Blast podcast

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

Andrew Johnson is managing director of wine merchant WoodWinters, also heading his own project Veiled Vineyards, which aims to unearth ‘hidden’ wines that might otherwise have missed out on reaching the market

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Popular South America wine articles

Argentina’s winemaking story is one of reinvention, passion and extraordinary diversity. While Malbec remains its global flagship, Argentina’s varied terroirs, high-elevation vineyards and innovative producers offer wines that push the boundaries of excellence.

Cabernet Franc, once an understated variety, now commands the spotlight in Argentina’s higher regions. The expressive aromas and poised structure of Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2024 top-50 Best in Show winner Altaluvia, below, exemplify the variety’s potential to redefine elegance. ‘Argentina is showing this grape like no other country does,’ says renowned sommelier and DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina, Paz Levinson.

Reds such as Bemberg’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Domaine Bousquet’s Organic Cabernet Sauvignon further highlight Argentina’s ability to craft world-class alternatives to Malbec.

Scroll down to discover DWWA 2024 awarded wines from Argentina

Argentina’s whites are equally compelling. Torrontés, with its heady floral aromas, continues to intrigue, while Chardonnay from elevated regions such as Gualtallary delivers balanced minerality.

Bemberg’s Platinum-winning El Tomillo Chardonnay 2021 is a mouthwatering example. Characteristic styles complete Argentina’s repertoire. Bonarda offers juicy charm, as seen in Colomé’s Lote Especial Bonarda 2023, while Patagonia’s cool-climate blends, such as Otronia’s Corte de Blancas 2021, add a fresh dimension.

‘Argentina is a land of diversity,’ Levinson concludes. Whether exploring Cabernet Franc, Bonarda or high-elevation Chardonnay, Argentina’s wines promise an adventure into terroir, creativity and boundless potential.

Discover DWWA-rated favourites beyond Malbec below, with more to be discovered at awards.decanter.com

Best in Show

Altaluvia, Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2019

Best in Show, 97 points

£30.95 The Vine Whisperer

This is the third Argentinian Cabernet Franc to win a DWWA Best in Show award, underscoring how well suited this variety can be for high-elevation Andean viticulture. It’s dark and warmly scented with loganberry and plum. Balanced and poised, with the fruit deft and singing – very much a tenor rather than a bass. More soft loganberry dominates the palate, with both tannins and acids in supportive rather than dominant roles. Alcohol 14.9%

Whites

Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No1 El Tomillo Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Platinum, 97 points

POA £ Top Selection

Striking Gualtallary character of luminous pear, apple and lime fruit cascading over a flinty, wet-stone mineral core. Alert and intense with a fine bead of succulent acidity and a very long, stylish finish. Alc 13.5%

Alta-Yarí, Gran Torrontés, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Gold, 95 points

bodegaaltayari.com

Oozing glorious tropical fruit and pomelo citrus with an undertow of honeyed florals that persist and entwine around the bustling acidity and creamy texture. Energetic and long. Alc 13.5%

Altaluvia, Riesling, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Gold, 95 points

£30.95 The Vine Whisperer

A delightful wealth of lime curd, blossom and honeyed white fruit bathed in a cleansing mineral freshness which steers toward a sizzling sea salt finish. Alc 13.3%

Otronia, 45 Rugientes Corte de Blancas, Sarmiento, Chubut, Patagonia 2021

Gold, 95 points

£32.99 92 or More, Liberty Wines

An exciting blend showing a breathtaking array of white blossom, ginger and white pepper with an enticing oiliness tempered by the pulsating acidity. Youthful and joyous. Alc 13%

Trapiche, Terroir Series Finca El Tomillo Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2022

Silver, 94 points

POA £ Enotria&Coe

Lovely lavender on the nose, some baking spices and appealing oak over generous pineapple and lime aromas. Round and fresh. Alc 14%

Reds

Bemberg, La Linterna Parcela No19 Las Mercedes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cafayate, Salta 2019

Platinum, 97 points

POA £ Top Selection

Sultry tones of pencil shaving, liquorice and crushed black pepper are engulfed by rapturous strawberry, blueberry and blackcurrant swirling across the plush tannins, fine acidity and silky texture. Softly evolved and remarkable. Alc 14%

Etchart, Single Vineyard Petit Verdot, Cafayate, Salta 2023

Gold, 96 points

bodegasetchart.com

Earthy, peppery notes enhanced by mesmerising ripe red fruits alongside appetising acidity and polished tannins, providing a unique fluidity and depth. Long and sustained. Alc 14%

Domaine Bousquet, Ameri Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2021

Gold, 95 points

POA £ Vintage Roots

Dense, tightly packed with quintessential blackcurrant, cherry and plum atop a lavish spectrum of smoky oak and tingling espresso. Fleshy and vivacious with sleek tannins. Alc 14.5%

Trivento, Golden Reserve Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2022

Gold, 95 points

£16 Concha y Toro UK

Varietal typicity with wonderful high-elevation concentration. Expressive lavender and thyme aromatics meld with red fruits and the granular tannic core keeps things fresh. Alc 14.5%

Finca Sophenia, Altosur Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2023

Silver, 94 points

£13.50-£13.99 Highbury Vintners, JN Wine, The Vintage Wine Merchants Antrim

Herbal nose with notes of blue fruit, forest floor, black tea leaves and black pepper. Muscular on the palate with tense tannins. Alc 14%

Luigi Bosca, De Sangre Red Blend, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2022

Silver, 94 points

luigibosca.com

Elegant and expressive with aromas of spices and tobacco leaves, full of ripe fruit. Very friendly structure, long and rich. Alc 14.3%

Colomé, Lote Especial Bonarda, Calchaquíes, Salta 2023

Silver, 93 points

£24.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Liberty Wines, NY Wines, Shelved Wine

Generous jammy fruit nuances on the nose, concentrated. Appealing, fine tannins, with fresh acidity supporting the fruit. Alc 14.5%

Kaiken, Obertura Cabernet Franc, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021

Silver, 93 points

£34.99 (2020) Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Dé Wine Co, Liberty Wines, North & South, Simpy Wines Direct, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm, Winedirect

Herbaceous nuances on the nose with well judged spicy oak and tobacco notes. Peppery and broad palate, with a long finish. Alc 14.5%

Search all DWWA 2024 award-winning wines

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Few winemakers have the opportunity to be pioneers in new regions and fewer still in regions of extreme terroirs, where textbook viticulture doesn’t apply. Perhaps none see such groundbreaking efforts yield world-class wines in less than a decade.

However, all of this is true of Juan Pablo Murgia, who, as head winemaker of the Avinea group, led the inception of its limit-defying Otronia project in Argentine Patagonia (see below).

But Murgia’s trajectory has been defined foremost by consistency and commitment rather than the exceptional opportunities he’s had – and that he has embraced with a calm, assertive focus.

Son of Mendoza

Born in Luján de Cuyo, in the heart of Mendoza, Murgia grew up among Malbec vines. The grandson and son of grape growers, he went on to study oenology and started his career at the local research outpost of the Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Agropecuaria.

After two seasons at different wineries, he joined Carlos Pulenta’s Bodega Vistalba, located in the town of the same name, staying for seven years.

While Murgia was there, the prolific entrepreneur Alejandro Bulgheroni became involved in the venture, taking a 50% stake to add to his growing portfolio of estates, which would eventually come to include properties in Argentina, Bordeaux, Italy, Napa and beyond.

The relationship with Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards (ABFV) flourished, and in 2010, Murgia became engaged in earnest in the development of its concerns in Argentina, under the umbrella of Grupo Avinea.

Its flagship projects – Bodega Argento (Mendoza), bought by Bulgheroni in 2012, and Otronia (Patagonia) – projected Murgia as a rising star on the Argentine wine scene.

Blank slate

When it changed ownership, Argento already existed as a volume brand. Murgia’s brief was to turn it into a fully fledged estate delivering organic-certified wines, working primarily with estate-owned fruit.

He oversaw the planting of vineyards in Alto Agrelo (232ha), Ugarteche (22ha), Altamira (21ha), Cruz de Piedra (12ha) and Carrizal (99ha).

During Murgia’s tenure – and under the guidance of winemaker Alberto Antonini, who consults across ABFV’s portfolio – Argento has become Argentina’s largest organic-certified producer.

The evolution of Murgia’s career overlaps with that of his relationship with Antonini, whom Murgia considers both his master and friend.

It’s easy to see a lineage: Murgia’s demeanour and approach echo Antonini’s matter-of-fact elegance, poised precision and relentless focus on terroir.

Yet Murgia has a personal attachment to his role that brings a cerebral viscerality to his words while also defining the stylistic thread that runs through his wines.

To the extreme

It was Otronia that forced Murgia to fully flex his viticultural muscles and to reconsider his classroom knowledge. The project’s inception happened alongside Argento’s, but it took longer for the vines to become fully productive, with the first wines released from the 2017 vintage.

Located on the shores of lake Musters in Sarmiento, in Chubut province, Patagonia, straddling parallel 45° 33’, the 52ha of vines grow on an extreme terroir defined by relentless winds, intense light and brutal temperature fluctuations.

‘[The border of] Patagonia is 1,000km from my home [in Mendoza]. Sarmiento is another 1,000km further,’ Murgia explains, giving context to what it means to work in the world’s southernmost wine sub-region.

‘It’s a singular landscape – almost untouched and extremely powerful.’

Two Juan Pablo Murgia wines to track down

Otronia, Chardonnay, Chubut, Patagonia, Argentina 2022 94pts

Focused and layered, with expressive smoky notes of flint and gunpowder over intense lemon zest, white grapefruit, crunchy pear and camomile notes. Juicy citrus drives an unctuous palate. A strong, assertive acid line held by a mineral backbone. Long, with lingering white grapefruit, wet stone and aniseed notes. Organic.

Argento, Single Block Block #1 Malbec, Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2021 94pts

Complex and characterful, with an alluring, fresh nose weaving together wet stone, petrichor, red cherry, plum, redcurrant, wild rocket and tomato leaf. Very pure fruit on the palate, supported by a beautiful tannic framework – fine and mineral yet muscular. The fleshy fruit fills the palate, held by a crunchy, textural grip. Long on the finish, with lingering tomato leaf and cherry pit notes. Organic.

Nature and nurture

Bulgheroni’s idea to explore (and push) the southern limit for viticulture came with good expectations. ‘But the team did not anticipate the qualitative level we’ve achieved,’ confesses Murgia. ‘The ambition was there – that’s why [at Otronia] we’ve taken precision viticulture and the concept of micro-terroir to the extreme.’

The vineyard is divided into 52 parcels, planted at high density with specific clonal and rootstock selections and harvested and vinified separately. ‘But for all our efforts and strict working philosophy – organic and now incorporating biodynamic practices – it’s also a function of the energy and magic of the place,’ Murgia concludes.

‘Respect for a place, precision viticulture and a superior terroir – that’s what makes special wines.’

There’s an interesting analogy here with Murgia himself, with his unassuming combination of technical expertise and visceral connection with the projects he’s involved in.

He evokes his childhood memories without losing sight of the inevitable technical demands of his work or taking any achievements for granted – and acknowledging the role others have had in shaping his opportunities and career.

At 41, with 20 (professional) harvests behind him, Murgia is a son of Mendoza, as a man as well as a winemaker. On the other hand, he has become the father of a new, unlikely terroir, whose Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and Merlots now regularly feature among South America’s best – not least in Decanter’s tastings.

A product of nature but also, no doubt, of knowledgeable nurture.

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Whether you’re looking to fête the start of 2025 in the utmost style or still planning this year’s calendar, we’ve pulled together some of the most decadent ways to celebrate the end of the winter season and beyond – because why should the party stop after New Year’s Eve?

If you’re still trying to find a gift for that family member whose wine collection has it all, we’ve got the perfect collector’s set from Bordeaux.

And what could be a more memorable experience for your gastronomic friends than a trip to Mendoza with legendary South American chef Francis Mallmann?

From cocktail pop-ups in chic ski cabins in Japan, to Champagne-fuelled dinner parties in three Michelin-starred restaurants and a new countryside chic hotel on Burgundy’s wine route, 2025 is gearing up to be a banner year for luxury.

Dine with iconic winemakers during a private tasting experience at three Michelin-starred Mirazur in the French Riviera

Housed in a glass-encased, 1930s rotunda watchtower perched over the Mediterranean on the French Riviera, chef Mauro Colagreco’s three-starred Mirazur is the definition of destination dining.

Surrounded by five hectares of permaculture and biodynamic gardens planted with more than 1,500 varieties – which includes 70 types of tomatoes alone – Mirazur has revived forgotten species while also introducing new ones.

The garden’s produce is the highlight of the plates during the carte blanche menu dubbed Univers, which looks to the movement of the planets and basics of biodynamics to guide the dishes.

This season, Mirazur wrapped up its first edition of exclusive winemaker dinners hosted in the private La Puerta space, where up to 15 guests dine table d’hôte-style at a communal table alongside the chef de cave or winemaker from lauded wine and Champagne houses.

This year’s standout lineup: Domaine Jacques Selosse, Artémis Domaines’ Bouchard Père et Fils and Domaine d’Eugénie, and Château d’Yquem, to name a few.

Watch Colagreco’s team in the open kitchen as they prep the nine-course tasting menu designed specifically around the latest and most iconic vintages from guest wineries.

The second edition will pop up throughout 2025 (dates yet to be announced).

Join chefs Francis Mallmann and award-winning pitmaster Aaron Franklin for a masterclass in Mendoza, Argentina

If you’re trying to decide what your first international trip of 2025 should be, we have the perfect pick to add to your calendar.

South America’s superstar chef Francis Mallmann is teaming up with award-winning chef Aaron Franklin, of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, for the five-day Smoke & Fire masterclass, taking place 12-16 February at The Vines Resort & Spa in Mendoza, Argentina.

Argentine asado meets traditional Texas barbecue as you learn the art of grilling and smoking alongside these masters in the Uco Valley.

Franklin, who is building a custom smoker for the special occasion, will cover everything from smoking techniques to perfecting his famous sauces and sides, while Mallmann will guide you through the art of cooking over open flames – with fireside chats, local boutique wines, and tango thrown in between.

The trip (not including airfare or transfers) starts at US$14,690 for members or US$34,020 for guests in a one-bedroom deluxe garden villa (single occupancy).

Indulge in decadent aprés-ski wine pairing dinners during The Little Nell’s Chefs & Somms Series in Aspen

Aspen’s The Little Nell, whose wine programme counts more than 20,000 bottles (led by wine director Chris Dunaway), is kicking off the new year with an impressive lineup of culinary creatives and world-renowned sommeliers during its Chefs & Somms Series, which coincides with ski season.

The mini world tour will bring everyone from Michelin-starred chef Egon Heiss of Castel Fragsburg to Australia’s first Master of Wine, Michael Hill Smith, and chef Mark Lundgaard of two-starred Kong Hans Kælder in Copenhagen, who will helm a special collaboration dinner with Krug x Flower on 15 February.

Reservations here

Journey through a bespoke Champagne tasting at L’Assiette Champenoise

Champagne Rendez-Vous’ Fiona Perrin has curated an immersive Champagne experience of esteemed growers and more under-the-radar gems to pair alongside an eight-course tasting menu at L’Assiette Champenoise near Reims, in the heart of Champagne.

From the six-seat chef’s table, glimpse into the kitchen and watch as three Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Lallement and his team prepare dishes designed around four cuvées from Champagne Rendez-Vous, with Perrin guiding the journey through her selection of exceptional bubbles.

Available for lunch or dinner with a one-night stay at L’Assiette Champenoise (reservations here); 595€ per person.

Step into the newly opened, crystal-draped Ducasse Baccarat in Paris

Celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse – one of only two chefs to hold 21 Michelin stars throughout his career – has joined forces with haute French fine crystal house Baccarat, transforming the historic hôtel particulier in Paris’ well-heeled 16th arrondissement into a combined artist residency, cultural centre and gastronomic culinary experience.

Each element of Maison Baccarat is designed to be immersive. From pieces of Baccarat’s heritage collection on display, to a ‘chapel of light’ installation by stained-glass artist Pierre Tatin, which will guide you to the Jérémie Attali-designed garden, debuting in 2025.

Another highlight: the Tuzla chandelier – composed of 157 lights and 9,000 crystal pendants – illuminating the main staircase (pictured).

As for the signature Alain Ducasse Baccarat restaurant, start with a cocktail by Margot Lecarpentier (the mastermind behind one of Paris’ top cocktail bars, Combat) at Bar Midi-Minuit, which is paired with four bites created by the restaurant’s gastronomic trio of chefs: Alain Ducasse, Christophe Saintagne and Robin Schroeder.

Then, make your way to the restaurant swathed in raw oak screens by sculptor Jean-Guillaume Mathiaut and Baccarat artisan-crafted blown crystal drops hanging from the fresco-painted ceiling.

The collection of impressive artwork extends to the upstairs tasting cellar, where you can sip wines selected by Groupe Ducasse’s head sommelier, Bernard Neveu, while admiring a canopy illustration by painter Gérard Garouste that expresses the four elements essential to the alchemy of crystal: water, earth, air and fire.

Sip craft cocktails at Niseko Confidential’s alpine-chic cabin in the Japanese ski village of Hirafu

Award-winning cocktail bar Tokyo Confidential is bringing a taste of the Japanese capital to the slopes this season with a winter pop-up dubbed Niseko Confidential, taking over an alpine cabin in the heart of Hirafu.

Tokyo Confidential’s eclectic art collection like retro Godzilla posters and a giant inflatable maneki-neko (the Japanese ‘fortune cat’) will brighten the traditional rustic interiors.

You can warm up with après-ski-inspired cocktails like the Gingerbread Old Fashioned (pictured), a blend of bourbon, gingerbread and bitters, or the Pumpkin Spiced Latte for Grown-Ups, a mix of autumn spiced tea, Cognac and cream.

Menus start at $261; reservations here.

Spend the night at Burgundy’s newest address, the plush Bellevigne

The first of Les Hôtels (Très) Particuliers’ properties to debut on the French wine routes, 37-room Bellevigne Bourgogne sits at the foot of a church tower in the wine village of Chambolle-Musigny in the Côte de Nuits, halfway between Beaune and Dijon.

Wine-inspired décor and antique furniture are scattered across the old manor home, where terraces perch over the garden, original wooden beams extend across high ceilings, and the design elegantly embraces countryside chic with canopied beds and claw-foot standing tubs.

In the tasting room and centuries-old vaulted cellars, you’ll find more than 1,000 wine references, including exclusive allocations and lesser-known producers.

A private lounge features a fresco highlighting Burgundy’s climates; terroir-themed fare is served in the oenophile library and out on the patio.

And the Tannin Spa offers everything from an outdoor pool, sauna and hammam to treatments featuring French organic line Absolution.

Visit Maison Ruinart’s experiential 4 Rue des Crayères in Reims

Champagne is known for its reservation-only policy when it comes to visits and tastings, but Maison Ruinart’s latest project, 4 Rue des Crayères, offers a first-of-its-kind sensory experience in Reims.

Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto, interior designer Gwenaël Nicolas and landscape artist Christophe Gautrand spent the past three years transforming the centuries-old Champagne house’s estate.

A sculpture garden championing local biodiversity encases the new stone-and-glass Nicolas Ruinart Pavilion, designed from natural, bio-sourced materials and constructed with the help of local artisans and skilled stonemasons.

‘Shape is important and the maison is very symmetrical, so I wanted to bring some kind of positive imperfection,’ said Fujimoto during the debut this fall.

‘The beautiful curvature creates a nice harmony and contrast with the existing maison’s [19th-century facades].’

At 4 Rue des Crayères, you can dine and drink at the Bar by Ruinart, which serves a selection of champagne cocktails designed by Maison Cravan, like the Royal Shiso with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and green shiso leaves, as well as a selection of Ruinart cuvées.

On the opposite side of the expansive, light-drenched space, pick up a bottle (or a few) at the boutique, which also features gorgeous housewares like candle holders made from vine cuttings.

‘The building, when you see it, is like a projection of Ruinart in the future—we’re creating a new history for Ruinart,’ said Nicolas.

‘We took elements like a carafe and created a sculpture of upside down bottles as a metaphor of how champagne comes from the past. Everyone was surprised, expecting to see a château, and instead you see a sculpture.’

Join We Are ONA’s new pop-up series for 2025

After a pop-up in a train station during Art Basel Paris, creative culinary studio We Are ONA returned last month in partnership with multidisciplinary artist, artistic director, architect and designer Alexandre de Betak.

Taking over a Haussmannian apartment under construction on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, overlooking the Tuileries Garden, the week-long pop-up (running from 10-16 December) offered a peek of what’s to come in the scaffolding-filled space.

At the helm of the cuisine for this edition: Alexis Bijaoui (pictured below), who cut his teeth at now-closed Relæ in Copenhagen and L’Arpège in Paris before co-founding L’Auberge de La Roche in the village of Valdeblore, in France’s Mercantour National Park.

Culinary pop-ups will continue throughout 2025 (dates yet to be announced).

Look out for future reservations here

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Vertical tastings are often a self-indulgent exercise through which producers try to assert the superiority, longevity and consistent quality of their wines.

However, sometimes an invitation to taste all produced vintages of a given label comes with the enticing challenging of revisiting its evolution, consider the missteps and give feedback on the direction and goals of the current winemaking team.

The latter was the case when the San Pedro team traveled from Chile to London for a tasting of all but one of the vintages of Altair so far released. A brave proposition, that showed the evolution of the wine, with the many questions, hesitations and changes of priorities along the way.

To a large extent, Altair’s journey mirrors that of Chilean fine wine as a whole: from a fascination with classical foreign paradigms to the recognition of a potential for difference and local identity – all backed by robust technical ability.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for all released vintages of Altair

From French love affair…

Altair started as a partnership between Cachapoal Valley’s Viña San Pedro and St-Émilion’s Château Dassault, with Pascal Chatonnet as consultant and Ana María Cumsille as on-site winemaker. The joint venture planted 70 hectares of Bordeaux varieties, as well as Syrah and Carménère, at the foot of the Andes hoping to craft a premium blend to complement both of the estate’s ranges.

Until then, San Pedro had focused on more marketable brands – not least the popular Gato Negro label – with all production based at the historical winery in Molina. It was there, in the heart of the Central Valley, that the company, founded in 1865 and now part of the prominent VSPT Wine Group, had had its sole home for the previous 150 years.

The joint venture, and the new plantings, crystallised the aim to expand and focus on premiumisation.

Since 2002, Viña San Pedro has had a dedicated facility for the production of its fine wine range – which, in addition to Altair, includes the Cabo de Hornos, Kankana de Elqui, Sideral and Tierras Moradas labels.

The first wines produced at the Cachapoal Andes winery hail from the 2003 vintage, which explains the decision not to include the first vintage of Altair (2002) in the vertical overview. The Altair brand has been fully owned by San Pedro since 2007, when Château Dassault abandoned the partnership, though with Chatonnet and Cumsille retained on the winemaking team.

… to Chilean self-awareness

Brand ownership and winemaking lineage are important to understand the evolution of Altair and were reflected in the proposed – and helpful – grouping of vintages that structured the tasting: ‘classical beginnings’, from 2002 to 2006; ‘forging identity’ (2007-2011); after skipping a vintage due to unfavourable growing conditions, the period between 2013 and 2017 was defined as one of ‘deepening the roots’; 2018 marked the beginning of the ‘evolution toward purity’ while the latest release (2021) was the dawn of a ‘consolidation era’.

This first stage is clearly informed by a Bordelais stylistic framework and Pascal Chatonnet’s background. The prolific consultant – who counts names such as Vega Sicilia, Château Cos d’Estournel, Château d’Issan and Numanthia as both current and former consulting engagements – shaped an elegant but unapologetic use of wood.

This has resulted in wines that are classical and, if old fashioned, have certainly withstood the test of time.

The phase that followed the dissolution of the partnership with Dassault, was pivotal. It marked the beginning of the pursuit of an identity unique to Altair and a true understanding of the local terroir. Deliberately reducing the use of oak allowed Chatonnet and Cumsille to more vividly explore the character of the fruit and vintage variation.

A different kind – and level – of nuance emerges as the duo experimented with different blends. The promise and potential of a truly Chilean fine wine emerges.

Missteps and regaining focus

With Gonzalo Castro and Marco Puyo at the helm as, respectively, head winemaker and technical director, Altair entered a new stage in 2013. During this period, San Pedro expanded its Cachapoal plantings and did extensive soil mapping. Greater knowledge of terroir was met, puzzlingly, with heavier-handed wood in the cellar – with uneven results.

But the careful study of soil and vineyard behaviour provided a good launchpad for the next winemaking leading duo. 2018, the first vintage of Altair with Gabriel Mustakis as head winemaker and Ignacio Diaz overseeing cellar operations, marked the beginning of the search for a new style, with more detail, better oak integration and a clear commitment to Cabernet Sauvignon.

There’s a clear intention to inscribe Altair among the great Cabernet’s of South America – an ambitious goal, considering the quality and history highlighted in Amanda Barne’s comprehensive overview.

Structural fine-tuning

Mustakis’ approach has clearly focused on improving wood integration and the enhancement of the tannic framework. For this, he deployed a variety of fermenting and ageing vessels and developed a more precise approach, with each plot vinified separately.

‘Concrete eggs, amphorae, foudres – vessels of different sizes, shapes, and materials for ageing allow us to adapt to the unique characteristics of the grapes at each vintage,’ he explains.

Although perhaps not yet at its full potential, the vertical showed a clear evolution, remarkable consistency and increasing technical precision. This translates into a particularly well-presented structure that supports the character of each vintage and the contribution of all the blending components ever more successfully.

Somehow, the story of Altair is also the story of how South American Cabernet Sauvignon – and Chilean in particular – carved its place on the international stage by asserting its uniqueness, rather than trying to emulate Bordeaux or North American role models.

‘It’s an opportunity to push the boundaries of what we can do with Chile’s unique terroirs,’ says Mustakis. ‘With over 20 vintages behind me, I feel a deep sense of responsibility not only to the [San Pedro] but also to the legacy of Chilean winemaking.’

San Pedro Altair – vintages 2003 to 2021 tasted and scored:

Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. 

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That Susana Balbo has been a pioneering force in Argentine (and South American) wine goes without saying.

Her talent as a winemaker, entrepreneurial spirit, resilience in the face of many challenges and the way in which she has reframed the possibilities for women in the wine industry make her one of the sector’s most respected names.

Which explains her worthy inclusion in Decanter’s Hall of Fame in 2024.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for Susana Balbo’s eight vintages of Signature White Blend

Landmark year

Serendipitously – and rather symbolically – the bestowment of Decanter’s lifetime achievement award coincided with the 25th anniversary of Balbo’s eponymous project, founded in 1999 as Dominio del Plata. Her winery and range now bear her name – appropriately, for hers are wines with a very personal imprint.

Beyond the Hall of Fame recognition, the quarter-century anniversary was marked by the release of a special library edition of Cabernet Sauvignon from the flagship Nosotros range.

However, rather than merely celebrating her achievements, Balbo used the landmark year to consider the evolution of one of her now best-known – and itself pioneering – wines, the Signature White Blend.

A vertical tasting of all vintages since the inaugural 2016 provided an opportunity to consider the wine’s evolution and potential, as well as its meaning for South American wine more broadly.

Indeed, if South America has now firmly established itself as a safe source of fine red wine – of consistent quality, expressiveness and collectability – the full potential for premium whites is yet to be fully unleashed. But a revolution is afoot, with Balbo’s Signature White Blend a strong step forward – for the path it has opened and questions it has raised.

Balbo herself recognises that the Signature White Blend is a work in progress; a journey of learning – as ever – and discovery that shows a humble recognition of work yet to be done.

Embracing the challenge

The genesis of a Bordeaux-inspired white blend was a visit by Tim Atkin MW to Balbo’s winery in Mendoza.

‘Chatting to Susana Balbo one day, I bemoaned the relative shortage of good white blends in Argentina,’ explains Atkin.

Wouldn’t there be potential to produce an age-worthy wine, Argentine in its essence, to rival the world’s best whites and match the country’s great reds? ‘So a week later, we sat down with a Sémillon from Mendel, a Sauvignon Blanc from Giuseppe Franceschini and her own Torrontés and played with some components for fun.’

Not one to shy away from a good challenge and always driven by great curiosity (creative as well as technical) Balbo set out to add the experiment to her aptly-named Signature range.

‘Little did I imagine that she would go ahead and make a wine based on our cuvée. Not only that, she improved on it,’ Atkin continues.

Queen of Torrontés – and much more

Having started her career in the cradle of Torrontés Riojano, in Cafayate (Salta), and often referred to as the ‘Queen’ of Argentina’s flagship white variety (see latest releases of her Signature Barrel Fermented and Late Harvest iterations for proof), Balbo was well placed to make the best of the variety’s aromatic and textural potential, alongside classical French counterparts.

Balbo says that blending is the winemaker’s greatest skill; the ability to produce something that is more than the sum of its parts. The signature White Blend indeed shows how Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon can work to each other’s benefit: the florality of Torrontés outlined by Sauvignon’s herbaceousness; the woolly weight of Sémillon (especially with some years in bottle) lifted by the aromatic vividness of its counterparts; the zesty scalpel of Sauvignon softened by the barrel-aged Torrontés and unctuous Sémillon.

‘Textural’ is a word often used to describe this wine. Texture is indeed central to the identity of the wine, a product of multiple, complementary factors. The Sémillon and Sauvignon grapes undergo pre-fermentative maceration; Sauvignon and Torrontés are fermented in oak, where they are kept on the lees for two months; the final blend ages for up to six months in barrel (60% of which new).

The subtle phenolic grip at the core of this wine is key to its medium-term development, showing particularly well in vintages 2018 to 2020.

Vintages 2016 and 2017, with the weighty, nutty depth of Sémillon emerging more vividly, suggest there’s great potential for this to become a wine designed to be drunk with even more time in bottle.

Leveraging further potential

Which left me wondering whether Balbo is treading too carefully. Could Torrontés be brought to the forefront, especially in vintages where Sauvigon Blanc tends to dominate the aromatic palette and the wine therefore seems a bit more removed from its place? Is there perhaps potential for more ageing in barrel?

Some vintages seem to suggest that the marrying of the blend and the textural potential would benefit from a bit more wood. And moving the dial into slightly more oxidative territory might add an interesting depth of field. If so, more extended macerations might add complexity without loss of elegance.

Such questions would not be asked, however, if the wine did not show, already, the character, poise and evolution potential of a great white. Atkin says that since its first vintage, the Signature White Blend ‘has gone on to become one of South America’s finest and most distinctive whites’.

‘The first one was good, of course, but since then she’s refined the blend and improved the quality. I’m proud to have inspired her to make something so good.’

Curiosity and anticipation is how we’ll wait to see how Balbo takes it further.

Susana Balbo Signature White Blend – all released vintages scored and tasted:

Wines in order of release, with latest release shown first. 

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Decanter’s expert writers and contributors awarded 95-points or more to almost 3,000 wines in the 12 months to October 2024.

While they have all appeared in the pages of Decanter magazine and online on Decanter Premium and in our decanter.com database, there were too many to reproduce here for a seasonal wrap-up.

So, in a somewhat unfair and very challenging task, we asked each of our Regional Editors to select just five wines from each of their key areas of expertise to highlight the bounty and diversity on offer across the world wine map.

Scroll down for notes and scores of the South American Wines of the Year 2024

The many wines tasted and producers met throughout 2024 confirmed that South America is – and will surely remain – the source of some of the world’s most exciting wines across various styles and prices.

Unique – in some cases extreme – terroirs and a growing pool of talented winemakers explain the phenomenon.

One of this year’s most exciting discoveries, Otronia’s Block I Pinot Noir, produced by Juan Pablo Murgia in Sarmiento, Patagonia, is a perfect example of this fortunate combination.

Another key factor is the productive synergy between generations.

Younger faces, armed with technical knowledge, instinct, personality and worldly awareness, alongside established names whose nothing-left-to-prove status allows them the freedom to take risks and question assumptions – not least about themselves – with confidence.

This cross-generational energy is reflected in producers Catena Zapata and Zuccardi’s enduring ability to deliver true modern classics that once again stood out among the September releases on the La Place de Bordeaux marketplace.

Likewise at PerSe, where Santi del Popolo has joined his father, the renowned viticulturist Edy del Popolo, and winemaker David Bonomi to produce some of the most elegant wines coming out of Mendoza at the moment.

The latter also reflects another important trend: smaller, low-intervention, personal projects (such as the eponymous venture of Francisco Beattig, of Viñedos Chadwick and Seña fame) where a group of talented winemakers are exploring micro-terroirs and reinterpreting tradition.

Quick links:

See further analysis and top-scoring wines of the following areas:

Bordeaux & Burgundy | Champagne, Rhône and regional France | Italy | Spain & Portugal | The US | Australia, New Zealand & South Africa | Rest of the World

Wines of the Year 2024: South America

Wines are listed white then red, in score order

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The seemingly endless drive down the driveway opens up to the expansive Clos Apalta vineyard, from which the eponymous flagship wine gets its name. It sits adjacent to its architecturally significant gravity flow winery that has graced the pages of countless magazines. And just above the vineyard, dotted about the steep mountainside are 10 ultra-spacious casitas and villas – the hallmark of the Clos Apalta experience.

Luxury lodgings

The four original casitas set the standard for luxury accommodation in the area, featuring large Balinese-style lodgings with local woods and other natural materials, shrouded by trees and wraparound verandas that allow for the utmost privacy. At the end of last year, six new villas were added.

Founded by Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle (yes, that Marnier), the 10 luxury lodgings are each large enough to accommodate entire families, and offer the utmost privacy.

Each villa or casita is named for one of the grape varieties grown in the vineyard, and a favourite is Sauvignon Blanc. Located mid-slope above the centre of the vineyard, it’s clad with floor-to-ceiling windows offering nearly 180º views that bring the outside in, and 148m² of living space. You’ll feel as if you’re living in the most opulent treehouse you’ve ever seen. The formal living room, with wood-panelled walls and millwork, is set off with its own door separating it from the rest of the villa. The bathroom is another story. Think: Turkish hammam with stone-tiled shower, and extra deep, stone soaking tub overlooking the nature reserve, where you can spot some of the local wildlife through the giant picture windows. Plush linens, bathrobes and luxe L’Occitane bath products add to the experience – and just outside the bathroom is your own personal plunge pool with lounge recliners.

A focus on local cuisine

The architecture and design of the Clos Apalta Residence has always been the initial draw, but from the beginning, the totality of the hospitality experience has been the focus, so the gastronomy programme is exactly what you’d expect from a member of the Relais & Châteaux group. The kitchen is helmed by Chef Leonel Diaz and most of the ingredients come from what’s grown on or can be sourced from very near to the property – hyperlocal cuisine – highlighting the flavourful tastes of Chile.

An expansive on-site garden supplies the kitchen with fresh veggies and herbs as well as flora that might be used as a garnish or complement to your dishes. The cuisine is colourful, flavourful, artfully prepared and Michelin level in every sense (the Michelin Guide doesn’t yet extend to Chile). Of course, none of this would matter if the wines were an afterthought. But as this is Clos Apalta, you can expect to taste some of the finest vintages and rarest of the Lapostolle portfolio served alongside your meals. And though lunch and dinner are served in the on-site restaurant, the extravagant breakfasts can be enjoyed in the comforts of your villa or casita if you so choose.

Activities aplenty

With lush environs and too-good-to-be-true views, it’s easy to think that wine, food and sleep are the only indulgences available to you, but that is far from the case. Taking part in a Pisco Sour masterclass, using Lapostolle Silver double distilled pisco, is certainly a treat. Cooking classes, horseback riding and guided hikes are also de rigueur.

There are tours of the winery itself, too, which is a kind of architectural feat that you don’t want to miss – you may even run into technical director Andrea León. But one of the best activities of all is stargazing: Chile has some of the clearest skies in the world so astronomy is taken seriously. Atop the roof of the iconic winery is a powerful telescope that is fitting to an end to a perfect evening, staring off into the galaxy, where you’ll likely wonder how you even got here in the first place.

For more information, visit the Clos Apalta website.

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The new range includes a Syrah and a Primitivo, which were created in partnership with Switzerland-based MM Winemaker. These limited-edition wines are on sale for €60 (£50) per bottle at the MM Winemaker site. Messi is often referred to as the GOAT (greatest of all time) after breaking all manner of records throughout his glittering career.

The 37-year-old forward has won the World Cup, two Copa América titles, four Champions League titles, 10 La Liga titles, two Ligue 1 titles and all manner of cup competitions.

He has also won the Ballon d’Or, the annual award given to the world’s best player, a record eight times.

Some football fans would argue that Pelé, Diego Maradona, Ronaldo Nazário, Cristiano Ronaldo, Zinedine Zidane or perhaps Johan Cruyff would be more deserving of the GOAT tag, but most pundits agree that Messi is the greatest ever to play the game.

Messi, who has worn the number 10 on the back of his shirt throughout his career, announced the limited-edition GOAT 10 wines on Instagram. He referred to them as ‘two premium wines with collectible bottles that you simply cannot miss’.

This is not his first foray into the winemaking world. Messi previously teamed up with MM Winemaker to launch the Lionel Collections, which included Pinot Grigio, Nero d’Avola, Grillo, Chardonnay, Primitivo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

MM Winemaker, which has close ties to Italy, said the collection ‘pays tribute to a true legend and combines exceptional quality with our rich winemaking heritage’.

Former Barcelona teammate Andrés Iniesta also spearheads his family’s winery in Spain, which is called Bodega Iniesta. David Silva, Andrea Pirlo, Gianluigi Buffon, Ronaldinho, Roberto Carlos, Andrea Barzagli and Franz Beckenbauer are just some of the other football stars with their own wine brands.

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Concha y Toro is the largest wine producer to join an initiative called the Bottle Weight Accord, which is designed to reduce the carbon footprint of wine packaging.

Participants commit to reducing the average weight of their 750ml still wine bottles to 420g or below by the end of 2026. That will significantly reduce their carbon gas emissions.

Valentina Lira, sustainability director at Concha y Toro, said: ‘We are confident that we are well on the way to the 420g average thanks to great efforts made by our product design, packaging, production, and sustainability teams to date.

‘This is just the first step for us as we look to continue reducing the weight of our bottles and incorporate new formats in the future.’

Five large retailers – Whole Foods, Lidl, The Wine Society, Alko in Finland and Systembolaget in Sweden – joined forces to study the average weights of wine bottles. They found that the average bottle of wine weighed 550g.

Dom de Ville, director of sustainability and social impact for The Wine Society, said: ‘Carbon emissions from glass bottles make up around 30% of our total emissions as a business, so reducing glass bottle weight is a key way that we can reach our goal of halving total emissions by 2032.’

That study inspired a British group called the Sustainable Wine Roundtable (SWR) to launch the Bottle Weight Accord initiative in autumn 2023.

It was initially supported by the retailers that funded the study, but signatories now include a wide range of wine business from across the entire supply chain.

However, Concha y Toro is the largest producer thus far to get involved. The Chilean company is the largest wine producer in South America and one of the 10 largest producers in the world.

Concha y Toro produces around 384 million bottles per year, with brands such as Casillero del Diablo from Chile, Trivento from Argentina and Bonterra in California.

Dr Peter Stanbury, director of research at the SWR, said: ‘South America is one of the regions which historically has seen some of the heavier wine bottles used, so it is great to see Concha y Toro, a major player in the region, take the lead in committing to a lightweighting standard.’

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The stellar reputation of South America’s premium red wines has been built on the region’s iconic varietal wines: Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, and Uruguayan Tannat.

Yet these wines are a relatively recent phenomenon, only really gathering pace in the 1980s when South American wineries – their sights set on export – joined the wave of varietally labelled wines emerging from the New World.

Prior to this shift in focus, South American winemakers had been more interested in producing European-style blends – and Bordeaux blends in particular. This was a reflection of the early French and other European influences on the local wine industry.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 premium South American red blends

Blending traditions

The first South American vineyards were planted by Spanish settlers and missionaries in the 1500s, but it was the wave of European immigration in the late 1800s and early 1900s that had the most significant impact on the development of the modern South American wine industry.

Many wineries were founded or advised by French vignerons, and mass immigration from wine-producing regions of Spain, Italy and France in particular ensured that European varieties and sensibilities took hold. European blends found a new home in South America.

Varietal Malbec, Cabernet, Carmenère and Tannat moved into starring roles on the world stage in the decades following the 1980s surge, and since then top winemakers have continued to evolve their premium blends behind the scenes.

The best Bordeaux-style blends are far from mere imitations of Bordeaux. South America’s winemakers are creative, blending in the local heroes Malbec, Carmenère and Tannat.

Other European varieties such as Syrah and Cabernet Franc are also adding refinement, with winemakers seeking to balance tradition and innovation.

Meanwhile, the emergence of new geographical indications (or GIs – delimited areas indicating the origin of a wine, which may be stated on labels), such as the sub-regional GIs of the high-elevation Uco Valley, is encouraging experimentation with new grape varieties, such as Rhône-style blends based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

The character of local terroirs and individual vintages is being given increasing weight, too; good vintages such as 2018, 2019 and 2021 have seen quality elevated to new heights.

Greater finesse

The line-up of premium South American red blends from which I made this selection included some truly world-class wines. Perhaps the most revealing aspect of the tasting was an evident stylistic shift towards greater finesse – these will always be wines of body and opulence, but they are increasingly elegant and vibrant, too.

And although these are wines built to last another decade – or longer – in the cellar, you’ll find that many are drinking beautifully already.

It’s no surprise that many of these wines are earning recognition in prestigious markets, including La Place de Bordeaux (since the 17th century used as a central distribution network for Bordeaux wines, but which in recent years has developed into a platform to sell elite wines from around the world).

Cheval des Andes became the first Argentinian wine to be sold through La Place in 2003.

Premium red blends have played the role of understudy in South America for decades, but they are steadily now moving into the spotlight – it’s time to take a fresh look.

Notes and scores for 18 top South American red blends

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Rio de Janeiro is Brazil’s first city of sun and fun, but São Paulo is its capital of dining and cocktails. Thanks to the melting pot of communities that migrated there from diverse corners of Europe and Asia, Brazil’s largest city will satisfy even the most demanding palates.

‘Sampa’, as it’s widely known, is a love-it-or-hate-it kind of metropolis, busy and fast-paced, whose 12 million paulistanos (residents) dance to their own beat. Getting around can be time consuming (many chief executives commute by helicopter; the city has the world’s largest helicopter fleet), but the intense traffic jams are offset by spontaneous samba gatherings on street corners, precious moments where Brazilians’ joviality hot-steps to life.

Once you have become accustomed to the hustle, the steep, leafy streets and never-ending avenues of skyscrapers daubed with enormous murals will begin to reveal their charms. The metro system and extensive bus network are both relatively straightforward to use; single tickets can be bought for the equivalent of less than £1, though fares for both can be paid using a rechargeable Bilehete Unico card. Car service apps are very economical.

Portuguese settlers gave the country its language and industries such as sugar cane, rubber and coffee production, but they aren’t unique in leaving their mark on São Paulo’s culinary scene. As home to about 660,000 people of Japanese descent – the largest such community outside the land of the rising sun – top-notch omakase, sushi counters and ramen bars (the revered noodle bowl is often written and pronounced by Brazilians as ‘lamen’) form a prominent part of the cityscape.

Fans of Japanese and Korean foods should browse the Liberdade and Bom Retiro neighbourhoods, respectively. Italian heritage is so dominant that taking part in paulistanos’ Sunday-night pizza ritual is non-negotiable. Lebanese, Syrian and West African food – the latter a culinary legacy of slavery – have also added threads to Sampa’s vibrant tapestry.

Starry kickstart

The city’s dining scene was recently given a boost by the relaunch of Brazil’s Michelin Guide in May; São Paulo establishments picked up 98 mentions, including three two-stars, 12 one-stars and 30 Bib Gourmands (‘offering exceptionally good food at moderate prices’, according to the Guide).

Thanks to this thriving gastronomic scene and a sophisticated dining public, you can drink as well as you eat. Wine lovers will be pleased to know that Brazilian winemakers are slowly but steadily growing in number, as is interest in sake and local rum-like distillate cachaça.

One of the city’s finest cellars is at Tuju, a newly minted two-star Michelin restaurant in Jardim Paulistano. Having shuttered the restaurant during the pandemic, chef Ivan Ralston returned with an ultra-seasonal menu, using locally sourced, emissions-light seasonal ingredients (guided by rainfall rather than temperature). Standout dishes in his Drought menu include hare with foie gras and cod with trout roe.

His wife Katherina Cordás developed Tuju’s research centre, which informs the menu; she also heads the front-of-house team. The 1,300 label-strong cellar is curated by rising-star sommelier Juliana Carani. The 12-course tasting menu can be paired with one of her three lists – World Classics, Discoveries and South America – or by the bottle. There are various vintage verticals available, including Château d’Yquem. Make sure to order award-winning bartender Rachel Louise’s take on an Espresso Martini, made with jackfruit.

Where to discover Brazilian wine and food

The Brazilian wine movement has come on in leaps and bounds in the last 15 years, as vintners have turned their hands to grape cultivation.

Southern regions Serra Gaúcha – home of Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil’s first appellation of origin – Monte Belo and the Campanha Gaúcha prairies have been steadily forging their own winemaking paths, with traditional-method sparkling wine and dry whites receiving the most acclaim. Winemakers’ enthusiasm for expressing terroir has been matched by local drinkers’ curiosity to try homegrown labels, which has in turn led to an increase in the number of enotecas (wine shops) and bars opening.

Try local wines with favourite Brazilian dishes such as feijoada, a hearty stew of pork, beef and beans, at Bib Gourmand-rated A Baianeira (@abaianeira) located in São Paulo’s MASP museum of art in Centro, or picanha steak at churrascaria A Figueira Rubaiyat in Jardins, under the branches of its majestic Bengal fig tree. Revered finger food torresmo (deep-fried pork belly) is a staple at any boteco (traditional bar), and it’s best enjoyed with a very cold lager.

For Brazilian wine souvenirs, try independent store and restaurant Enoteca Saint VinSaint in Vila Nova Conceição. Some wine bars double up as bistrots, such as Clos Elevado (@clos_winebar) in Consolação, and Huevos de Oro (@huevosdeorobar), a Jerez and Spanish specialist in Pinheiros, from the team behind Sede261 (see below).

There’s renewed interest in cachaça, Brazil’s sugar-cane spirit, most commonly consumed in Caipirinha cocktails. Order a cashew Caipi and a moqueca (seafood stew) at Mocotó in Vila Medeiros, whose bar lists at least 10 small-batch wines, or ask to taste Brazilian wood-aged cachaças at Jiquitaia in Paraíso. The restaurant is ably led by the Corrêa Bastos siblings – sommelier Nina curates the cocktail list and her brother Marcelo cooks traditional dishes such as chicken coxinhas.

Local talent

At Nelita (@nelita.restaurant), a contemporary Italian restaurant in Baixo Pinheiros, chef Tássia Magalhães leads an all-female kitchen staff, while sommelier Danyel Steinle champions Brazilian producers.

His 90-label list includes sparkling and natural wines from the regions of Serra Gaúcha, Monte Belo and Campanha Gaúcha in Brazil’s far south. ‘High quality has already been established,’ he says. ‘Labels that I particularly appreciate include Vinhas do Tempo’s Chardonnay, Arte da Vinha’s Francamente Franc and Era dos Ventos’ skin-contact Peverella.’ Later this year, the duo will open El Lita wine bar, right opposite Nelita.

Inspired by Italian cuisine and seamlessly blending it with São Paulo’s own culinary heritage, a fun and intelligent 15-course paired tasting menu awaits at Evvai in Pinheiros district; think scallop bombs, palm-heart linguine and coco-cauliflower for dessert. Talented young chef Luiz Filipe Souza’s talents go beyond the burners: he makes drawings of the dishes, so you get a small album of the illustrated menu to take home, and has devised small-measure cocktails to pair with his dishes.

Souza’s efforts saw Evvai upgraded from one to two Michelin stars earlier this year. The wine list managed by sommelier Marcello Fonseca surely contributed; the French-led list includes a healthy range of Brazilian labels from Don Abel, Leone di Venezia and Zanotto, among others.

Putting wine first

A wave of wine-forward, sommelier-run establishments are exciting paulistanos, who increasingly appreciate international wines as well as those from Brazilian producers.

Ripping up the rulebook is award-winning bar and wine shop Sede261 (@sede261) in Pinheiros, led by industry icons Cássia Campos and Daniela Bravin, whose relaxed approach has made it a firm favourite. With a rapidly changing list of around 50 wines, they set up folding chairs in the street and crack open that day’s selection, sometimes inviting chef friends to knock up some street food. Drinkers order by the glass or bottle from the tiny wooden bar before returning to the buoyant streetside festa.

Meanwhile, diners eating at Restaurante Cepa (@restaurante.cepa) put themselves in the capable hands of sommelier Gabrielli Fleming and her bountiful list of 300 natural wines, including Brazilian wines such as Era dos Ventos’ Trebbiano On the Rock.

‘It’s crazy to stock so many labels,’ she says, ‘but I love to share wines from around the world.’ Fleming’s ‘madness’ has paid off, as she has created a destination for natural-wine fans, first in far-flung Vila Gomes Cardim but recently re-opened in more easily accessible Pinheiros. There’s also high praise for chef Lucas Dante’s tasty small plates, such as braised squid and Wagyu tongue.

When it’s time to freshen the palate, São Paulo plays a strong suit in both cachaça and sake. Aizomê is a peaceful lunchtime omakase in Jardim Paulista that serves 50 junmai sakes in various-sized formats, while in Vila Mariana sake sommelier Yasmin Yonashiro shares her passion for Japan’s emblematic liquid culture at Jojo Ramen (@jojo_ramen).

My perfect day in São Paulo

Given the city’s sprawling nature, choose a neighbourhood and plan accordingly to best use your time; near the Pinheiros river, upscale Jardim Paulista and trendy Pinheiros are neighbouring districts, so it’s straightforward to traverse both. I suggest wearing sneakers to get to know Pinheiros or the historic Centro on foot.

Morning

In Centro, wake up with specialty coffee at hipster café Takkø (@takkocafesp). If you are in Pinheiros, Um Coffee Co has various outposts; enjoy your caffeine fix at the Rua Pais Leme branch before walking to Beco do Batman, a vibrant street renowned for its murals.

Lunch

I love the juxtaposition of calming Cora’s (@cora.sp) delicious seasonal dishes and its sixth-floor location alongside a clamorous highway in Centro. Another option is to refuel at Corrutela (@corrutela); this Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated restaurant is a stone’s throw from Beco do Batman and the wine list is constantly changing.

Evening

Two of my favourite bars for an aperitif with live music are the upscale Baretto, complete with piano player, and the Rosewood Hotels’ Rabo di Galo (see below) – named after the signature cachaça-based cocktail – which is known for its live samba bands.

Enjoy an evening glass of Casa Tés Sauvignon Blanc at Beverino Vinhos Naturais (@beverino. vinhos) before pigging out over dinner at legendary A Casa do Porco, where pork is served in a dazzling array of ways (they slow roast two whole free-range pigs a day). Or for something a bit more unusual, feast on lemongrass-flavoured ants from the unique Amazonian menu at D.O.M.. Or check out Charco’s (@charcorestaurante) Rio Grande do Sul-inspired flame-grilled fare, prepared by young gun Tuca Mezzomo.

I like to round off a night sipping a Brazilian Martinez at serious speakeasy The Liquor Store (@theliquorstore.sp), reservations required, or with a cachaça-forward Casulo cocktail at cool underground watering hole Bar dos Arcos.

How to get there

British Airways and LATAM/Virgin fly direct from London Heathrow daily, with flights taking about 11 hours to São Paulo-Guarulhos; from the US, direct flights depart from Miami, Orlando, New York and Washington DC daily. To reach Vale dos Vinhedos AO, fly to Porto Alegre then hire a car; it’s a two-hour drive to the valley.

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Andy Howard MW, Christine Allen and Eugenio Egorov tasted 131 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 71 Highly Recommended.

Sparkling wines of the Americas: Panel tasting scores

131 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 71

Recommended 55

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release sparkling wines from any recognised appellation in the Americas, north or south – vintage or non-vintage, of any colour white, rosé or red, and produced according to the traditional or ancestral methods (ie, respectively, secondary fermentation in bottle or a single fermentation in bottle.

The judging panel were impressed by the outright quality on show in this tasting, from areas as diverse as the Niagara Peninsula and Nova Scotia in Canada down to the southerly extremes of Patagonia. At the end, Eugenio Egorov enthused about ‘the rise of American sparkling wine – a New World of bubbles’.

He observed: ‘A quiet revolution is underway across the Americas, and the results are nothing short of impressive.’ Andy Howard MW agreed: ‘The quality came as a surprise, with fantastic balance and precision in the top-scoring wines.’

Scroll down to see the top results from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Six nation tasting

This six-nation tasting traversed Canada, the US, Brazil, Uruguay, Chile and Argentina. It was no great shock that many US wines did well, with the long-established Chandon performing strongly.

And no surprise, either, that the Racines Grand Reserve Chardonnay gained a score of 94, given the involvement of Rodolphe Péters (of Champagne Pierre Péters) and Etienne de Montille and Brian Sieve (Domaine de Montille in Burgundy).

What did bowl the panel over was the quantity and quality of wines from Canada. Of the 79 Canadian wines tasted, three were deemed Outstanding, 37 Highly recommended.

Availability may be a challenge in the UK, but those in North America should celebrate the quality on offer in their backyard.

Ultra-cool climate Nova Scotia performed well (with the highly distinctive hybrid L’Acadie Blanc grape displaying its benchmark acidity in one of Blomidon’s wines.

But it was Ontario that provided the greatest excitement.

Two Niagara estates took top honours, with York Vineyards a particular shock as its first releases were yet to hit the market (due July/August 2024) at the time of tasting. These wines show the potential of this region.

York Vineyards is currently the only estate in Ontario (and perhaps in Canada) known to be focusing entirely on traditional method sparkling wine; barrel fermentation/ maturation and extended lees ageing here have resulted in some excellent wines.

See all the wines from the sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting

Bright future

South America didn’t perform quite as strongly, perhaps a reflection of the market driven, sharper price limitations on producers in Chile, Uruguay and Brazil.

Many of the wines are Recommended (86-89pts), but fewer shone as brightly as those from the US and Canada.

The developing ‘frontier’ regions of Limarí (Chile) and Chubut (Argentinian Patagonia) did show great potential.

The Otronia estate in Chubut was a great discovery. In the extreme south of Argentina (45’33’’) where the climate is cold and hostile, the first vines were planted in 2010.

The results for such youthful wines are impressive – great focus, purity and energy.

Egorov summarised the potential for the sparkling wines of the Americas: ‘As the global demand for sparkling wine continues to rise, and prices in traditional regions like Champagne and Italy climb ever higher, American producers are stepping up to offer exciting alternatives with more accessible price-tags.’

He concluded: ‘The future of fizz is looking bright on this side of the Atlantic.’

Sparkling wines of the Americas panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Christine Allen is marketing director for distributor Maisons Marques et Domaines, particularly focusing on Old World regions, Champagne and sparkling wine. She has years of experience across sales, marketing and buying in the fine wine market, and is a DWWA judge.

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester.

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Pioneering Argentina-based winemaker Susana Balbo is the recipient of the prestigious Decanter Hall of Fame award for 2024, joining a roll-call of great names who have made outstanding contributions to the wine world.

Balbo has been instrumental in enhancing Argentina’s international reputation for top quality wines, and is known as the ‘Queen of Torrontés’ for her work with this grape variety.

Presiding over her eponymous Susana Balbo Wines today, she was the first female winemaker in South America. 

‘Susana Balbo didn’t just break the glass ceiling for women in South America, she completely shattered it, becoming a role model for generations to follow,’ writes Amanda Barnes in a special feature in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue. 

‘And regardless of her gender, she has masterfully achieved exceptional milestones – facing often unfathomable challenges along the way.’

Balbo had initially intended to study nuclear physics, but circumstances led her to winemaking and she finished top of the class, writes Barnes, who is author of the South America Wine Guide.

After beating 88 male applicants to secure a first job, at Michel Torino, Balbo moved to the remote mountain village of Cafayate and revolutionised the wines – personally transporting materials across the treacherous Andean pass when lorry drivers refused.

‘She was always challenging herself to move forward, and continues to drive forward today,’ said Mariano di Paolo, who worked with Balbo at Bodegas Esmeralda (now Catena Zapata) in the early 1990s. 

‘It is only when you are challenged in life that you can realise certain talents,’ Balbo told Barnes in an interview. ‘I believe things happen for a reason.’

While Balbo contributed greatly to premium white wines in Argentina, she is a big fan of reds and named Cabernet Sauvignon her favourite grape variety to work with – even above Malbec.

Alongside winemaking, she has been president and vice-president of trade body Wines of Argentina. She also served as a Congresswoman for Mendoza, and was chair of W20 (Women20) for the G20 summit in 2018.

Part of Balbo’s work is now to ensure that the family business can be handed over to her children, Ana and José, and the wider team, in order to continue to thrive. 

‘I feel very privileged to have grown up being taught by her that there are no limits to what you can do,’ said Ana, who manages tourism at the group’s winery, three restaurants and luxury hotel. 

‘But she also taught us to focus on others – if the community doesn’t grow around the winery, there is no point to it.’ 

Read Amanda Barnes’ full article on Hall of Fame 2024 award winner Susana Balbo

Pascaline Lepeltier: Decanter Rising Star 2024

Decanter has also announced that this year’s Rising Star award goes to Pascaline Lepeltier, the talented sommelier and author working to improve wine’s environmental and social impact. 

Lepeltier is the fourth recipient of the Rising Star award, which was created to recognise up-and-coming wine world talent.

She is already one of the world’s top sommeliers and has recently authored her first solo book, Mille Vignes, as Christina Rasmussen reports in a special feature article in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue.

The English translation, One Thousand Vines, is due to be released in the UK in October (£45, Mitchell Beazley). 

Decanter contributing editor Andrew Jefford said: ‘Mille Vignes is a wonderful compendium of knowledge – not only about wine but around wine, presented with encyclopaedic intent and academic refinement: she’s chased up every reference, every thread. 

‘Pascaline has given us the breadth of her own remarkable knowledge, in a spirit of generosity very typical of her. I find it a hugely enjoyable, exciting and original book on wine – a real achievement from an outstanding member of the global wine community.’

Lepeltier studied philosophy at Nantes University in France, but subsequently developed a fascination with wine after meeting Patrick Rigourd, the head wine merchant at Des Halles et des Gourmets, in Angers.

This led to a second Master’s degree, in hospitality management, and a sommelier diploma, alongside an internship at chef Jacques Thorel’s L’Auberge Bretonne.

‘Growing up, I didn’t go to restaurants with my parents; I discovered the world of gastronomy during my internship,’ Lepeltier told Rasmussen in Decanter magazine. 

‘I became fascinated by taste and the power of the palate, and really saw it as an anthropological study.’ 

Vineyard work with winemakers Mark Angeli, of Ferme de la Sansonnière, and Nicolas Joly helped to ignite Lepeltier’s passion for organics and biodynamics. 

Lepeltier devised one of the world’s most celebrated wine lists after becoming beverage director for Rouge Tomate in New York in 2009, writes Rasmussen.

She also went on to create the chëpìka label with winemaker Nathan Kendall, sourced from New York state’s historical hybrid varieties Delaware, Catawba and Concord.

Lepeltier was named Best Sommelier of France in 2018 and plans to compete in the International Sommelier Association’s (ASI) Best Sommelier of Europe, Africa & Middle East in November 2024, having come fourth in the ‘World’ contest last year.

Read the full article on Pascaline Lepeltier in Decanter magazine’s October 2024 issue 

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Susana Balbo is not a woman you easily forget. Visionary, pioneering, courageous, perseverant and strong are just a clutch of the adjectives regularly used to describe her. But if you meet Susana, it’s her silent command of a room and her steady, focused gaze that will stop you in your tracks.

Although elegant in appearance and petite in stature, Susana has a formidable presence. The tremendous respect she commands today, now in her late 60s, is both hard earned and hard fought.

This year’s recipient of our Decanter Hall of Fame Award, the latest in a roll-call of great names in the wine world, Susana Balbo didn’t just break the glass ceiling for women in South America, she completely shattered it, becoming a role model for generations to follow.

And regardless of her gender, she has masterfully achieved exceptional milestones – facing often unfathomable challenges along the way.

Scroll down to read more about Susana’s extraordinary career

Intuition for innovation

Susana’s winemaking story has an unlikely start. Although she was born in Argentina’s wine capital – the mountain city of Mendoza – her parents worked in textiles. Her aspiration as a young adult was to study nuclear physics; wine wasn’t part of the plan.

But fate intervened, in the way it often does, and the economic turmoil and political unrest of late-1970s Argentina scuppered her plans to study further afield. Instead, she signed up for the most science-driven course she could take locally: winemaking.

Although other women started the course with her, Susana was the lone female to make it to the end. Her perseverance set a new precedent – she became the first female winemaker in South America. She also graduated top of her class.

None of which made the reality of being Argentina’s only female winemaker any easier. To make things worse, the country was still in crisis and jobs were particularly hard to come by. She spent months experiencing rejection as she looked for work.

‘I was one of 89 applicants for Michel Torino,’ says Susana of the job she eventually pipped 88 men to the post for. ‘We spent three months interviewing. There were so many tests – even psychological ones!’

The owners picked Susana as their first choice, but not without warning her that women were either ‘very good, or very bad at their jobs – never in the middle’, as she recalls. She was given a trial period of one month in which to prove herself.

And prove herself she did. The then 25-year-old moved more than 1,000km from her home to the remote mountain village of Cafayate. After days travelling on winding mountain roads, she arrived at an outdated, decaying winery with no electricity and a cellar full of oxidised wines.

‘The wines tasted horrible!’ she says, recoiling in horror even now. ‘There were so many problems.’

Her smart, rebellious streak kicked in. She called the regulatory body and begged them not to visit her for three months. ‘I knew what I had to do, but 90% of the winemaking processes were forbidden. It was the only way I could save the wines!’

Using her aptitude for science and enthusiasm for technology, she salvaged the wines and put a plan in place to ensure the same mistakes would never be committed again.

She brought stainless steel tanks along the mountain roads and when truck drivers refused to ferry materials from Mendoza across the treacherous Andean pass, she learned how to modify her car and did it herself. Susana was unstoppable.

Although she revolutionised the red wines, it was her transformation of the region’s principal white grape that earned her the moniker ‘Queen of Torrontés’.

‘I didn’t have much choice – 70% of the vineyard was Torrontés!’ she says with a laugh. But in reality, Susana took what was an unloved variety, infamous for being bitter and bland, and chiselled it into a crisp, fragrant white wine – in the process making it a bona fide Argentinian icon.

Susana Balbo at a glance

Born: 9 April 1956, Mendoza

Studied: Winemaking at Don Bosco technical college (graduated 1981)

Wine career: Michel Torino (1981- 1989); Lovaglio Balbo (1990-1994); consultant winemaker (1995-2001); Martins Winery production director (1996-1998); Bodegas Esmeralda (1999-2002); Susana Balbo Wines, formerly Dominio del Plata (1999-today)

Political career: President of Wines of Argentina (2006-2008, 2008-2010, 2014-2015); WofA vice-president (2010-2012, 2012-2014); congresswoman for Mendoza (2015-2019); chair of Women20 Summit

Family: Two children, José Lovaglio (age 40) and Ana Lovaglio (38)

Interests: Reading, travelling, horse riding, time with her grandchildren

Up for the challenge

In the early days, she bucked the trend for carbon fining of white wines and carried out Argentina’s first experiment with enzymes – clarification enzymes used in the production of apple juice, as they were the only ones available – instead. ‘It was a big risk,’ she admits, ‘but it worked!’

Susana continues to transform and push the quality of Torrontés, notably planting it in the Uco Valley and ageing it in untoasted oak barrels for the top wines of her eponymous brand today.

‘Torrontés is just one example of her brilliant winemaking, and she has made the finest I have tasted,’ says Toby Morrhall, a UK wine buyer who began working with Susana in 1996. ‘Torrontés is sometimes excessively aromatic and not easy to drink. [But Susana achieves] beautiful essential oil-like aromas, as found in orange peel, without astringency.

This is a superb technical achievement that transcends the limitations of the Torrontés variety. She has a relentless thirst for the latest research and technology, and her ability and determination are transparently obvious.’

She has been at the forefront of Argentina’s new premium white wine movement and while she admits she has a special fondness and is ‘grateful to Torrontés, as it put me on the map’, Susana is actually far more of a red wine woman. Cabernet Sauvignon is her favourite grape variety to make – even above Argentina’s signature Malbec.

Why Cabernet? ‘I guess I like the challenge… There are many great Cabernet Sauvignons all over the world, whereas we have no competitors with Malbec.’ Never afraid to throw down the gauntlet, she adds: ‘I like to challenge myself to make a wine that can stand up to other wines of the world.’

Skills beyond the cellar

Susana’s tenacity and skill as a winemaker gained her prestigious winemaking posts in Argentina and as a consultant abroad. But she never stayed in her comfort zone for long, instead challenging herself to take on greater responsibility, venturing bravely into the business of wine and becoming one of Argentina’s first female winery founders.

What makes these achievements even more impressive are the hurdles she overcame to reach them. Her time in Salta ended in frustration and deprivation after the then-new owners ‘didn’t pay me a whole year of my salary’, which Susana says forced her to move back to Mendoza, babes in arms, to start again.

She experienced painful personal rejection when her parents founded a winery with her brother, leaving her out of the family business.

And Susana has had to pick up the pieces from her own two wineries – one with her first ex-husband, which went under after they were scammed in 1994 during Argentina’s period of hyperinflation; and subsequently having to buy out her second ex-husband when their differences became too great to work together, as a result of which she took on the winery single-handed. Put simply, Susana doesn’t give up.

‘I have had some traumatic experiences and challenges,’ she reflects. ‘But I am a positive person. It is only when you are challenged in life that you can realise certain talents. I believe things happen for a reason.’

This attitude and drive is what her closest colleagues recall. ‘Susana has always been a woman of strength and great confidence,’ affirms Mariano di Paolo, who worked with her at Bodegas Esmeralda (now Catena Zapata) in the early 1990s. ‘She was always challenging herself to move forward and continues to drive forward today.’

Susana herself attributes this drive to her great faith – as a devout Catholic. ‘My life has had its ups and downs, but my faith has driven me,’ she says. ‘I think God never gives you more challenges than you can handle. You should never surrender.’

Four women Susana admires

Mother Teresa

‘She’s a saint and gave everything to people who had absolutely nothing. The generosity and empathy she had for other people is incomparable.’

Indira Ghandi

‘When she needed to solve the problems she had, the United Nations left her alone to solve the problems – and she did.’

Jancis Robinson MW

‘She settled herself as an authority in the wine world.’

Helen Turley

‘She was the first to change the style of Zinfandel, and in some way I identify myself with her journey.’

Ambition for change

Another of her callings has been in the political arena – bringing change to the wine industry, for Argentina and for women. She campaigned hard to become the first female president of Wines of Argentina (WofA): ‘Nobody wanted to vote for me… The big wineries all tried to convince me not to do it. But I have never been afraid of what other people think about me.’

Instead, she went to the small growers, listened to their concerns and gained their trust. She won the presidency.

By the end of her term, she had left such an impression that she was voted in unanimously as president twice more.

In her time as president, Susana tripled membership, profoundly grew WofA’s international presence and, most importantly, helped to ‘sell Argentina’ – with a series of visionary marketing campaigns that not only showed the beauty of the wine regions, but the culture of Argentina: its tango, mountains and gastronomy.

‘We made Argentina exist as a category internationally!’

Helping to open eyes to Argentinian wine is clearly one of the greatest sources of pride for Susana, but her political ambitions didn’t stop there. From 2015, she served as congresswoman for Mendoza – following another hard-fought campaign.

She started with grand ambitions, but the stagnant, corrupt nature of the political arena saddened her: ‘I thought in politics I could do what we did with WofA, but I realised it was impossible – politicians only work for themselves.’

She did, however, at the request of then President Mauricio Macri, stay on to take on the role of chair of W20 (Women20), as part of the G20 Summit in 2018. ‘I was really proud of what we did in that time.’ It was one of the highlights of her life, she says, ‘to fight for women’s rights, without being a feminist’.

Securing the future

Susana’s desire to have an impact resonates at all levels. ‘Susana is a strong woman, as everyone knows,’ says Edy del Popolo, who has been working closely with her for more than a decade as general manager of Susana Balbo Wines, which employs more than 110 people today and produces two million bottles annually.

‘But along with her courage, she also has great sensitivity and is very generous. These are characteristics that many people don’t know about Susana. It perhaps feels like a contrast to her strength, but she takes care of her employees in a way you wouldn’t believe.’

Part of this care is now to hand the family businesses over to her children, Ana and José, as well as her trusted team, so the businesses can continue to thrive in the future.

‘She has always taught us that there is no shortcut, nor an easy path – that success is 99% sweat and 1% inspiration,’ says daughter Ana, who manages tourism at their winery, three restaurants and luxury hotel.

‘I feel very privileged to have grown up being taught by her that there are no limits to what you can do. But she also taught us to focus on others – if the community doesn’t grow around the winery, there is no point to it.’

It’s this tender side of the formidable Susana Balbo, a professional I’ve had the pleasure of interviewing several times over the past two decades, that radiates most vibrantly today. At peace enjoying her family and confident in her legacy.

Her gaze is still strong, her presence is still commanding, and Susana Balbo is utterly unforgettable. She is a true legend of South American wine, who did it her way.

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Malbec and Carmenère may have become South America’s most emblematic red varieties, but in keeping with the rest of the wine world, the most-planted wine grape is actually Cabernet Sauvignon. With 50,677ha of vines in Chile and Argentina alone (2022), according to government data, this Bordeaux variety has been the darling of the continent since its arrival some 180 years ago.

In the newly independent South American republics in the mid-19th century, the wealthy elites had a penchant for European fancies. It became a rite of passage to take a ‘Grand Tour’ around Europe, during which many developed a taste for the wines of Bordeaux.

This was the catalyst for developing the wine industries of Chile and Argentina – to recreate the sophisticated flavours experienced abroad. The native Criolla grapes growing at home were fine for jug wine and brandy, but didn’t come up to the standards of the colour and structure of the red wines of Bordeaux.

In a bid to get closer to the wines they so admired, a handful of wealthy vignerons started an import programme in the 1840s and 1850s – importing not only French vines but winemakers, too.

‘The French paradigm completely changed the style of wines here,’ says leading Chilean historian Pablo Lacoste, ‘and more and more people demanded these styles as time went by.’

22 great South American Cabernet Sauvignons listed below

All in the timing

The love affair with Bordeaux has run hot ever since. Although there’s a medley of international influences in South American wines today, it can be argued that Bordeaux has been the single most significant, bringing in knowledge, investment and vine material key to the development of South America’s Cabernet Sauvignon.

The timing of Cabernet Sauvignon’s arrival from France in the mid-1800s was fortuitous. Not long after the vines had crossed the Atlantic and been planted in South American soil, phylloxera swept across Europe, the pest devastating the vineyards of France, including those in Bordeaux. South America was suddenly a treasure trove of phylloxera-free European vine cuttings.

As such, Chile and Argentina’s massal selections – vines propagated by taking cuttings from the best existing stock of ‘mother vines’ on an estate – of Cabernet Sauvignon are living relics, offering great genetic diversity.

These are some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the world. Centenarian vines still producing wines can be found in Colchagua, Curicó and Maule in Chile, with the oldest believed to be the ungrafted vines of Neyen in Apalta, planted in 1889.

Meanwhile, in Argentina, many old vines can be found around the regions of Mendoza, but the oldest are believed to be held by Colomé in Salta in northern Argentina – at 2,300m, a field blend of ungrafted vines including Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with Malbec and other Bordeaux varieties, planted circa 1856.

Shaking off the past

Winemaking evolved with a Bordeaux accent, and Bordeaux blends emerged as ‘icon’ wines in the 1980s and ’90s, such as (Santa Rita) Casa Real, (Montes) Alpha M, (Errazuriz) Don Maximiliano, (Concha y Toro) Don Melchor and Almaviva from Chile, and Nicolás Catena Zapata and Cheval des Andes in Argentina. Wine styles also fluctuated with international tastes – South American Cabernets weren’t immune to the 2000s trend towards riper, heavily oaked wines.

Now, South American producers favour a more terroir-driven, local approach. In the vineyards, the hydric stress (aiming to reduce berry size and yields, to increase intensity of flavours) and major leaf plucking (to expose bunches to more sunlight and air) promoted by Bordeaux consultants in the 1990s are going out of vogue.

These techniques may have reaped benefits back in the rainier climate of France, but in the sunny, dry climates of Chile and Argentina, they can leave grapes raisinated and overripe.

Chilean winemaker Francisco Baettig, a key figure in developing the profile of luxury Chilean Cabernet, says: ‘The challenge now is preserving acidity and freshness, the juiciness of the fruit and elegance, with moderate alcohol. We’ve changed our viticulture to reflect that – we don’t stress the vines any more, and we harvest earlier.’

Winemakers are eschewing overt ripeness and concentration and aiming for balanced wines, with higher, more refreshing acidity, preferring a lighter hand in the cellar and less oak influence. This also means the Cabernet Sauvignon map has expanded to include cooler growing regions that produce fresher styles.

Coming of age

‘When I started as a winemaker, we were told that the Uco Valley was too cool for great Cabernet Sauvignon,’ says Juan Pablo Michelini, whose Altar Uco Cabernet eschews oak ageing in favour of concrete. ‘But we have had a revolution in our winemaking, and now I understand that we can make great Uco Cabernet when we seek elegance. It can be really interesting – not overly exuberant, nor austere; textural but not heavy.’

Contemporary styles of top South American Cabernet are focused and fresh, and although there are still many French hands and purse strings attached to the variety, this shows there’s an ever-increasing commitment to making wines that reflect South America’s own terroirs and winemaking journey. Cabernet Sauvignon from South America has finally come of age.

Top South American Cabernet terroirs

Cabernet Sauvignon is planted in each of South America’s wine countries, from the best known to Ecuador and Paraguay. But it’s not always a good fit. Although there are some promising regions in Uruguay and Brazil (in particular Rivera in the former and Campanha in the latter), the rainy and/or humid climates result in variable vintages.

Cabernet hasn’t made much of a dent in terms of quality wines in Peru or Bolivia, either. It’s in Chile and Argentina that Cabernet Sauvignon has thrived.

Chile

In Chile, Cabernet is king. Here it’s the most-planted variety – with some 37,000ha in the ground, according to SAG, the country’s agriculture and livestock service – and it produces superb wines. Cabernet Sauvignon put Chile on the fine-wine map.

At the heart of this great rise is the multitude of suitable Cabernet terroirs in the centre of the country. Just south of Santiago, Maipo has always been the undisputed heartland of Cabernet Sauvignon – largely influenced by its proximity to the wealth of the capital and within sight of many Bordeaux-obsessed vignerons.

The topography and climate of Maipo lend themselves to top-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The region’s vineyards follow the meandering paths of rivers that have brought stones and silt down from the Andes mountains, leaving terraces of river gravel similar to those seen in Bordeaux. With excellent drainage and access to water, these gravelly soils are ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives during the sunny, dry summers.

In the central part of Maipo, including the Isla de Maipo region, temperatures are more moderate and often cooler on average than in the rest of Maipo, offering gentle red-fruit expressions and softer tannins. The most celebrated terroirs are higher into the Andes foothills, where elevation increases the diurnal range – cooler nights and warmer days – leading to wines of structure and concentration, but also freshness.

Puente Alto, a sub-region of Alto (Upper) Maipo, is considered by many to be the holy grail of Chilean Cabernet terroirs. The three main properties there are arguably the country’s most famous: Viñedo Chadwick, Don Melchor and Almaviva.

However, there are also equally exciting and ageworthy expressions coming from the nearby sub-region of Pirque, as well as Buin, Peñalolén and the Santiago suburb of Macul. A hint of spearmint meddled with juicy cassis and an edgy minerality is typical of Cabernet from Alto Maipo.

There is also Cabernet Sauvignon aplenty to the north in Aconcagua and further south in Cachapoal and Colchagua. The warmer overall temperatures in the central Entre Cordilleras regions (between the eastern coastal mountains and the Andes to the west) make for riper, denser wines, which can often benefit from blending.

There are some notable varietal wines from the Andes regions, too, especially Colchagua’s Los Lingues. Here the higher altitude keeps the wines linear and refreshing, while retaining that trademark core of dense black fruit.

Even further south, Curicó and Maule are often overlooked, but there are some exceptional vines, from the ungrafted 122-year-old vineyard of Miguel Torres to Baettig’s Cabernet, grafted onto 100-year-old País vines half a century ago. The best wines here are nuanced and seductive.

Argentina

Over the Andes in Argentina, Cabernet Sauvignon became more popular in the 1990s but didn’t take off as Malbec did. There do, however, remain several Cabernet strongholds – the most notable being Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza. The Luján de Cuyo districts of Agrelo, Perdriel and Las Compuertas in particular are known for their rich, structured Cabernet wines.

An increasing number of premium Cabernet Sauvignons are coming out of the higher-elevation Uco Valley. Here, a fresher, spicier style is emerging, particularly from Gualtallary, at the valley’s northern end. The Cabernets that really trump the spice game though are those of Salta, in far northern Argentina, at even higher elevation.

These are the most peppery of all, as well as being heady with ripe fruit.

Benchmark Cab: the names to know and wines to seek out

Chile

Baettig

With his enviable flair for elegant Cabernet, Francisco Baettig has been reviving the overlooked region of Maule with a beautiful duo of Cabernet Sauvignons from his eponymous label. Grafted onto centenarian own-rooted vines of País, which provide wisdom and depth – as does this highly talented winemaker.

Carmen

Founded in 1850, Carmen is one of Chile’s oldest wineries and Cabernet has always been a strength. In recent vintages, Carmen Gold has been a star performer of Maipo, with a focus on fresher, floral expressions.

Concha y Toro, Don Melchor

Now celebrating its 35th vintage, Don Melchor is a well-established icon of Chile. For this wine, winemaker Enrique Tirado selects the cream of the Cabernet crop from Concha y Toro’s 12ha vineyard in Puente Alto. Terrunyo, a benchmark everyday Cabernet, comes from vineyards in nearby Pirque.

Cono Sur

Cono Sur is based in Colchagua, but Silencio, one of the top wines in the portfolio, comes from prime plots a little further north in Maipo Andes. The producer’s second label, 20 Barrels, includes a Cabernet Saivignon and is more widely available, particularly in the US, offering a more accessible glimpse into Cono Sur’s rich collection of Cabernet wines.

De Martino

From vineyards in the heart of Isla de Maipo, De Martino’s Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved from the riper style of the 2000s into a stripped-back, classy and understated style. Cuvée is the new icon, while La Cancha remains a classic.

Miguel Torres Chile, Manso de Velasco

One of the most prized vineyards that Spanish winemaking pioneer Miguel Torres discovered when establishing his Chilean outpost from 1979 (the vineyard was purchased in 1984). Winemaker Eduardo Jordán has now divided the ungrafted vineyard planted in 1902 in Curicó into terroir blocks – resulting in a top wine of greater finesse and precision.

San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos

One of the top wines of Viña San Pedro, Cabo de Hornos first came onto the premium scene in 1994. Gabriel Mustakis has been winemaker since 2018 and the most recent vintages are the most exciting, showing brightness and balance.

Santa Rita, Casa Real

Casa Real was one of the early ‘icon’ wines of Chile and has been one of the most admired since its first vintage in 1989. The majority of the fruit comes from old vines planted in the 1970s in Santa Rita’s Alto Jahuel vineyard.

Undurraga

Winemaker Rafael Urrejola makes wines all over Chile and has a special affinity with Cabernet Sauvignon. Top wine Altazor comes from 35-year-old vines in Pirque and has become increasingly refined over time. Terroir Hunter (TH) is one of the best-value Cabernets in Chile.

Viña Quebrada de Macul

A cult Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Chile, this boutique winery is one of the better-kept secrets of Macul. The hillside vineyard was planted in 1970 and French winemaker Jean Pascal Lacaze makes classic, ageworthy wines, including the flagship Domus Aurea and seductive second label Stella Aurea.

Viñedo Chadwick

When Eduardo Chadwick convinced his father to plant over his treasured polo field with vines in 1992, it was a risky move. But the gamble paid off, as this 15ha vineyard now produces one of Chile’s best, increasingly elegant and refined Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Argentina

Altar Uco

Juan Pablo Michelini has spent most of his winemaking life exploring the Uco Valley and Gualtallary. Altar Uco, launched in 2014 with Daniel Kokogian, is his passion project – these are understated yet vibrant wines, with evident mountain freshness.

Bemberg

This is the crème de la crème of the varied vineyard estates of the Bemberg family, owners of Argentina’s largest wine producer Grupo Peñaflor. Winemaker Daniel Pi has selected the best terroirs for each variety; the Cabernet from Cafayate embraces the spicy typicity of the north.

Casarena

Specialising in single-vineyard expressions from Luján de Cuyo, Casarena is refreshing in its vision. The Owen vineyard is an old-vine treasure – 20ha of parral-trained (on pergolas) Cabernet Sauvignon that’s more than 90 years old.

Susana Balbo Wines

Known as the Queen of Torrontés, Susana Balbo is also a long-time disciple of Cabernet Sauvignon. Her winery remains in Luján de Cuyo, but the wines have gradually transitioned to the Uco Valley and to spicier, more nimble, livelier reds.

Viña Cobos

One of Argentina’s first flying winemakers, Paul Hobbs has long been a believer in Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon; although his successes with Malbec and Chardonnay have perhaps obscured that. Nevertheless, he remains one of the top producers in Agrelo, making ageworthy wines.

And the wines… Amanda Barnes reviews 22 benchmark South American Cabernets:

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‘When it comes to Vitis vinifera genetic diversity, the New World could save the Old World.’ This dramatic statement was made in 2023 by Dr Etienne Neethling, a South Africa-born viticulture researcher now working in France.

This view may be surprising, considering the country that’s home to the largest number of native vinifera grape varieties is Italy. But in general, there has been a dramatic reduction in genetic diversity within many of the ‘noble’ grape varieties over the last century.

Today it’s rare to find a commercial vineyard with more than three or four clones of a variety such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

The situation is different in the wine-growing nations generally still referred to as the New World. Argentina, in particular, has remained a sort of Galapagos Island for same-variety Vitis vinifera genetic diversity – for Malbec and a few other varieties.

This is partly due to its economic and political isolation throughout the second half of the 20th century. But it is also because Argentina has continued to plant vines ungrafted, by massal selection – propagating new vines by taking cuttings from the best-quality vine stock – while most of the world moved to grafted clones.

According to Argentina’s national institute for viticulture INV (Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura), about 89% of Argentina’s vineyards are ungrafted and massal-selected; indeed there could be more than 150,000 hectares of ungrafted, massal plantings in Argentina, according to anecdotal evidence from researchers.

If true, this would make Argentina the country with the largest area of ungrafted, massal vineyards in the world.

While France and Italy have begun efforts to preserve massal selections – in some cases even ungrafted massals – even combined they have fewer plantings than Argentina. There are also old vineyards with ungrafted massals in Chile, South Africa, Greece, the Canary Islands, Portugal, Australia, the US and more – but there is no official registry of their surface area.

Grapevine propagation: key terms

Variety: A variation within a species, either naturally (through genetic mutations, natural selection or geographic isolation), or by human design (through long-term selection and propagation). For example, Cabernet Sauvignon is a variety of the species Vitis vinifera.

Clone: A specific iteration of a variety that is vegetatively propagated (through layering or grafting) because of its desirable traits (better taste, disease-resistance, etc) in a given environment. Genetically, clones are identical to the mother vine. 

Clonal selection: A method of vine propagation in which individual grapevines with desirable traits are selected and multiplied by vegetative propagation. A clonally selected vineyard will contain genetically identical vine material. 

Massal selection: A method of vine propagation in which cuttings are taken from a selection of best-performing vines and multiplied through vegetative propagation. A massal-selected vineyard will contain genetically diverse vine material.

Attack of the clones

How did Argentina come to hold so many ungrafted, massal vines? Until the early 2000s, little genetic material entered the country from abroad. In fact, many of the vines planted in Argentina are the descendants of vines imported from France (via Chile) during the 19th century, before the phylloxera bug pest spread out from northern America to devastate vineyards across Europe and eventually the world over.

It was only Argentina’s emergence as a major wine exporter during the 21st century – which prompted the arrival of foreign investors and flying winemakers, coming in from other countries as consultants – that resulted in the importation of modern clones (see above).

I became aware of the dominance of clonal plantings outside Argentina in the early 2000s, due to a chance encounter with Aubert de Villaine of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti at the Naples Wine Auction in Florida. I mentioned that I had been making Luca Pinot Noir in Mendoza since 1999.

He politely enquired: ‘Have you planted the Dijon clones?’ I proudly rattled off: 115, 777, 667, Pommard… He replied that his vineyards were planted with massal selections of Pinot Noir and not with Dijon clones.

Now, massal selection: that was something I could really talk about! It had been our family’s method of planting since my Italian great-grandfather grew his first vines in Mendoza in 1902. What followed was one of the most crucial conversations of my life.

When he heard that we had hundreds of thousands of hectares of massal vineyards in Argentina, de Villaine convinced me that this was extremely special. He wished that he could have massal Pinot Noir vineyards in Burgundy, like we have for Malbec in Argentina.

Natural selection

So how did this situation arise? It started like many other human endeavours, with people trying to improve on nature. Selection of the most productive crops for farming dates back to Neolithic times when early humans transitioned from hunting and gathering to farming.

Plants and seeds were selected with desirable traits such as higher yields, better taste or disease resistance.

Possibly as far back as 10,000 years ago, grape cultivation used massal selections. By the late 1800s, after the initial damage of the phylloxera crisis, American and European viticulturists saved their winemaking regions by grafting Vitis vinifera varieties onto the phylloxera-resistant rootstocks of American vine species.

Grafting required significant technical expertise. The art of massal propagation – whereby a year’s pruning materials would be planted in pots and used to create a new vineyard – was substituted by vine nurseries and a more controlled form of propagation.

In this setting, it made sense to reproduce just a few select clones – qualitative clones that would all ripen at a similar time – of leading varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

From the mid-20th century, planting by massal selection was mostly abandoned and the popular ENTAV clones (standing for Etablissement National Technique pour l’Amelioration de la Viticulture, ENTAV is the globally used French agency set up to identify and administer approved vine clones), including the Pinot Noir Dijon clones, became the symbol of the highest-quality vineyards in the world.

Lack of diversity

After the identification of vineyard viruses around this time, institutions such as FPS (Foundation Plant Services) in the US and INRA (named INRAE since a 2020 merger) in France developed certification programs for single-variety clones.

Virus testing and virus-cleaning of plant material is a complex and expensive endeavour, and it made economic sense to undertake these procedures only for the best clones of each variety. Sadly, virus-infected plant material was often discarded, which means that we have already lost much of the diversity for noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

At the same time, government research institutions around the world began to collect and identify individual cuttings of Vitis vinifera varieties to preserve in regional vine nurseries, taking precautions to keep them free of viruses.

I often refer to these government nurseries as ‘plant zoos’ because the diverse genetic material is preserved in small quantities – maybe six plants per genotype (that is, a particular genetic iteration of a grape variety).

In summary, the ‘clonal era’ of this last century has resulted in the world’s commercial vineyards being planted with a reduced population of individual clones, as opposed to what we have in Argentina – namely thousands of hectares of genetically diverse, ungrafted massal vineyards.

Such a viticultural environment is not without its challenges. In Argentina, threats to production from nematodes and water scarcity may compel producers to replant with virus-free clones and rootstocks. So how can these precious, genetically diverse vineyards and the traditional method of planting by massal selection be preserved?

A special case

Studies by the Catena Institute of Wine have shown that Argentina’s ungrafted, massal Malbec vineyards are special. Their yields are on average 75% lower than those produced by the ubiquitous Côt clones commercially available outside Argentina.

Grown in special places like our Adrianna Vineyard at 1,450m elevation in Gualtallary Monasterio, massal Malbec produces an ageworthy, floral, dark wine, with mineral notes and a unique combination of both rough and silky tannins.

In 1995, the Catena Institute of Wine undertook a selection of 133 Malbec cuttings – 120 from our own Angélica Vineyard (planted in 1924) and 13 from public collections at INTA (Argentina’s national institute of agricultural technology) and the Faculty for Agrarian Sciences – which we have studied and reproduced. We have found that yields can vary by as much as 10 times between the most and least productive Malbec cuttings.

Sugar ripeness in grapes at harvest time can vary by 4° Brix, which could mean a monumental two-point difference in the final alcohol level of the wine made. Veraison time (the onset of ripening, when colour begins to change in black grapes) can differ by up to eight days for two different cuttings in the same terroir.

In difficult vintages, our genetically diverse massal plantings are the most resilient, because a spring frost will result in less damage to vines if they are at different stages of ripening. So it is no surprise that our best Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda wines come from ungrafted, massal vineyards.

Research, current and feature

Other areas of study include the impact of viruses on grafted versus ungrafted vineyards. We’re also considering flavour profile, quality and ageability of wines from massal and clonal vineyards in different terroirs, and researching the epigenetic response (how internal or external stimuli affect genetic response) of vine cuttings to high-altitude terroir.

Our massal vineyard cuttings are unique in both their pre-phylloxera status and in their epigenetic adaptations to our high-altitude climate. It’s also important to consider the wider implications of preserving intra-varietal genetic diversity in the face of climate change – this includes the feasibility of ungrafted vineyards to cope with water scarcity.

Our plans for the future include the Nicolás Catena Viñedo Supersónico. In this isolated, virus-free vine nursery we are preserving genetically diverse selections of Malbec, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Criollas, as well as some specific clones of these and other varieties.

Viejito de Rivadavia Vineyard is another isolated site where we preserve massal selections from old vines rescued from vineyards that are being replanted or pulled out because the land is being sold for housing (sadly, this is an increasingly frequent situation).

This vineyard is purposely not virus-free. As a scientist I am convinced that within the next decade, virus testing and cleaning will become much less expensive; therefore our current priority is to preserve the largest amount of genetically diverse vines rather than clean material.

Finally, we are collaborating with the district of Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, on the 100-year-old vineyards project. Luján de Cuyo boasts the largest concentration of centenarian vines in Argentina, with 150 vineyards covering approximately 1,000ha, according to the INV institute for viticulture.

Together with local researchers, we are working to preserve massal selections of Malbec from these old vineyards that are at significant risk of disappearing. We sign an affidavit with all vineyard owners who are providing us with vine material, stating that if a future generation of their family wants to plant a vineyard, we will provide the cuttings for them.

On becoming a vine doctor

As a young woman studying science, I felt that the best way to help the world using science would be by becoming a medical doctor – which I did, specifically an Accident & Emergency doctor, a profession which I practised for 27 years in the US while at the same time working at the Catena family winery in Argentina.

Today, I am committed to helping to preserve the nature that surrounds us, which includes genetically diverse vineyards that are more resilient to climate change. In this way, I am convinced that I can continue to help people, as a vintner.

It’s my belief that wine in moderation can make our lives more joyful and interesting, and perhaps help alleviate the current loneliness epidemic, by encouraging joyful companionship at the table.

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The path that leads to Leonardo Erazo’s winery is narrow and slippery. The mud is thick from rain that has not stopped for almost a week, and the pine forests on both sides barely let in the light.

I should have listened to Erazo when he told me to rent a 4×4 – instead I’m inching across the mud in a sedan. Fortunately, it manages to reach the end of the road, where the pine trees suddenly give way to a spectacular view.

I can see the slopes of the round, green peaks of the coastal mountain range, about 4km away, dropping down into the Pacific Ocean.

Tasting notes for eight of Erazo’s must-try wines below

This place is called Cobquecura. It has no viticultural tradition to speak of, but it is close to the southern Chilean DO region of Itata, 500km south of Santiago, where vines have been cultivated for 500 years.

Itata’s vines fell into neglect when Chile’s Central Valley rose to vinous prominence from the mid-20th century, but they’ve undergone a renaissance in recent decades, with forward-looking producers such as Erazo rescuing this rich heritage of old, dry-farmed vineyards.

Today, a growing number of vintners work small vineyards of ancient País, Moscatel or Cinsault vines in Itata.

After the fires

The rain has stopped falling for a moment and the sky allows timid rays of winter sun to sneak through the dense layers of clouds. Erazo, 45 years old, is waiting for me among the vines. He wears a thick sleeveless vest, shorts and working boots. He smiles with his usual warmth.

We haven’t seen each other for a couple of years, since just before Itata was devastated by the 2023 fires that destroyed, according to USDA Foreign Agriculture Service reports, about 440,000ha of land (mostly pine forests), killed 26 people and destroyed houses, wineries and an unknown number of old vineyards.

Fortunately, the fire did not reach Erazo’s property in Cobquecura, but it did destroy four of his six hectares in the Guarilihue area of Itata – the heart of the valley and the source of his best Cinsault wines.

‘It was very fast. In a matter of hours there was nothing left. Fortunately, the winery was not damaged, although the flames came close,’ he remembers.

Erazo is slowly recovering from the disaster, trying to revive his 6ha of burned vines in Guarilihue, while rearing his 4ha of new vines at home in Cobquecura.

He planted the latter in 2020 – all to white varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Albariño, Riesling and Chardonnay – and they are just now producing their first wines, which are not yet on the market.

These are fresh and refreshing white wines, marked by the cold breezes of the Pacific ocean. ‘I tried to make reds, like País or Pinot Noir, but they didn’t work, he explains. ‘It is too cold here. Maybe if the soil held more water they could ripen, but the stone soil doesn’t retain anything.’

The journey so far

After graduating as a winemaker and working briefly for Chilean wineries such as Pérez Cruz and Via Wines, Erazo decided to travel the world. He made wines in Priorat, Catalonia; Sonoma, California; Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand; and also in South Africa.

From 2012 to 2020 he was the winemaker at Altos Las Hormigas in Mendoza. Seduced by the rich heritage of old vineyards, he decided to settle permanently around Itata.

‘In 2010, while working as a viticulture professor at the University of Concepción, I was able to get to know the valley more closely and also made my first Cinsault wines,’ he says.

Cinsault seems to be what attracted Erazo to Itata, but instead of starting a new life in the region’s interior, where plenty of old Cinsault vines exists, he moved west to Cobquecura, on the coast north of Concepción.

Erazo lives with his wife Zjos and their four children – Emilia, Esteban, Matías and six-month-old Teresa – in their ocean-facing home, next to the winery and large warehouse, built of recycled materials.

‘There is another energy here, the energy of the Pacific. And there is much more to do,’ he says, smiling. ‘It’s a place without history, without vineyards – we don’t know what we’re doing, it’s all trial and error. And that is the challenge.

The sense of Cinsault

Erazo produces about 60,000 bottles from Itata vines, from his own vineyards as well as those he rents and others from which he purchases fruit. He works mostly with Cinsault, but also País, Moscatel, Semillon and Carignan.

‘Some have told me I should plant Gamay or Trousseau, but I don’t agree. Cinsault is already here, it has already acclimatised – it just needs to be polished,’ he says.

He has been committed to the variety since he made his first Cinsault in 2013, under the Rogue Vine brand, a joint project with his friend Justin Decker, a Californian who settled in the area.

Cinsault is not easy to work with. Until De Martino winery rescued it for the market in 2010 (with its Viejas Tinajas label), it was considered an unimportant variety that produced uninteresting wine.

In Chile it is still known as la cargadora (‘the loader’) because of its tendency to produce too many bunches. But De Martino paved the way for others to follow, offering juicy, refreshing reds ideal for relieving the heat of summer.

Some, like Erazo, decided to take Cinsault to an even higher level. ‘We have heard so much rubbish about this variety that it is difficult to forget, but like most grapes, if it is planted in the right places and cared for it can produce great reds,’ he assures.

From his first trials he realised that Cinsault was very sensitive to soil type and that its bad reputation could be partly attributed to being planted in an unsuitable terroir.

‘One of the things I learned first was that if Cinsault is grown in soils with too much clay, without stones, it produces a bland wine, without grip or bones,’ he explains.

Wines under the A los Viñateros Bravos label come from partner vineyards, small plots spread across the slopes of the Guarilihue mountains. Wines under the Leonardo Erazo label (featuring a drawing of an owl on the label) are sourced from parcels that Erazo owns or manages himself, some no bigger than a few rows.

Talking terroir

Erazo divides the terroir of the Guarilihue region in Burgundian terms for his own reference. The A Los Viñateros Bravos’ Granítico and Pipeño labels (see tasting notes, p54) equate to ‘village’ wines, from soils with a higher proportion of clay.

The Leonardo Erazo ‘premier crus’ (such as Las Curvas, La Ruptura, Hombre en Llamas and El Tunel) come from soils where rock predominates over clay; and for the Leonardo Erazo ‘grand cru’ Amigo Piedra, the soils are rockier still.

All in all, Erazo makes about 35 wines, spread across different markets. Some don’t even go to market, but are simply tests of a few hundred bottles that he makes for fun.

‘Commercially, it may not be the best option to make so many different wines, but it is the way I interpret the diversity of Itata,’ he smiles. ‘I couldn’t make vineyard blends. I don’t see the point.’

Altogether this is a portfolio of delicious wines. Juicy, tense whites; mouthwatering País; and especially the charming, profound Cinsault reds. These tiny patches of semi-forgotten old bush vines, rescued by committed vignerons like Erazo, are producing Chile’s most characterful wines.

Alternative Chile: Erazo style, eight to try from Itata

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Dror Nativ MW, Ben Gubbins and Andy Howard MW tasted 52 wines, with 4 Outstanding and 19 Highly Recommended.

South American Merlot: Panel tasting scores

52 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 4

Highly recommended 19

Recommended 25

Commended 3

Fair 1

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still red wines labelled as single-varietal Merlot, from any recognised appellation in South America and consisting of a minimum 85% Merlot

Merlot rarely gets the limelight. This is particularly true of Merlot from South America, where signature regional varieties – Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, Uruguayan Tannat – dominate. Merlot is often overlooked, or blended with other varieties.

However, this panel tasting of 52 wines demonstrated that Merlot has the capability to surprise and delight, particularly when sourced from the continent’s cooler regions.

While Tannat accounts for more than a quarter of plantings in Uruguay, Merlot at 615 hectares accounts for about 10%, the third most-planted (INAVI, 2023). Of the six Uruguayan Merlots tasted, the three Highly recommended wines all hail from Maldonado, where cool Atlantic breezes seem to work their magic on this variety.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the South American Merlot panel tasting

The powerhouse

Argentina may be known as a Malbec powerhouse, yet five of the 11 Argentinian Merlots tasted were rated 90-points or more. Two Outstanding wines emerged from the cool south of Patagonia.

Ben Gubbins noted that the Merlots from this region showed a distinct blue-fruit profile. Riccitelli Old Vines Merlot from the Patagonia sub-region of Río Negro stood out for its likeness to cool-climate Syrah, showing beautiful aromas of violets and crushed black pepper. The Otronia 45 Rugientes comes from Patagonia’s wild and windswept Chubut sub-region; its racy acidity and refined style breaks the Merlot mould.

Not unexpectedly, Chile dominated the tasting. At 10,651ha, Merlot is the third most-planted variety here (8.3% of plantings, according to SAG data for 2022), after Cabernet Sauvignon (28.8%) and Sauvignon Blanc (11.2%). The country fared well, with 43% of the 35 Chilean wines scoring 90pts or above.

Two Outstanding Chilean Merlots were uncovered. Cousiño Macul’s Jardín de Macul was celebrated for its combination of hedonistic opulence and ageworthy concentration, dubbed by Andy Howard MW ‘a fine advert for Maipo Andes’ in the inland east of the region.

The Bournet Lapostolle family’s Cuvée Alexandre also impressed the judges with its structure and ageability.

See all the wines from the South American Merlot panel tasting

Cellarworthy

In fact, the capacity of Chilean Merlot to age, alongside its remarkable value, was what most astonished the panel. Gubbins noted: ‘There is definitely something to be said about the ageability of these wines.’ And Howard agreed: ‘I think you can keep them longer than you might suspect.’

Eleven of the Chilean wines tasted were from the 2018-2020 vintages and more than half scored 90pts and above. Incredibly, at the time of tasting, seven were available at less than £15 a bottle: an impressive, and rare, ratio of value to ageworthiness.

South American Merlot may be less fashionable, but in terms of drinkability, ageability and value, it compares very favourably to Merlots from more established regions around the world.

South American Merlot panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Dror Nativ MW is a wine buyer for major retailer Marks & Spencer, responsible for South America as well as Bordeaux, Burgundy, England, Champagne and sparkling wine. Having begun his career in the hospitality sector, he has also worked in varying roles at Hayward Bros, Spar and Sainsbury’s.

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013.

Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.

Related articles

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• Amanda Barnes: My top 10 South American wines of 2023
• South America’s new flying winemakers plus 12 wines to try

Inside the September 2024 issue of Decanter magazine:

FEATURES

• South America’s great Cabernets The continent’s wine heritage owes much to this popular red grape, as Amanda Barnes reports
• Massal vineyards in Argentina Dr Laura Catena on a unique genetic resource with global significance
• Carmenère in Chile The surprise discovery that sparked a vinous love affair. By Amanda Barnes
• Interview: Leo Erazo The Chilean magician speaks to Patricio Tapia
• Ten reasons to discover Uruguay This little-visited gem has much to offer the travelling wine lover, according to Amanda Barnes
• Vintage report: Napa Cabernet 2021 Jonathan Cristaldi selects 60 top Cab Sauv-based wines from an already legendary Napa vintage
• Roussanne around the world Get to grips with this ‘baffling’ white grape variety, with Matt Walls
• Ribera del Duero This northwest Spanish region is increasingly using the past as a roadmap for its own future, reports Ines Salpico
• Malvasia: a buyer’s guide Caroline Gilby MW unpicks the complex and confusing world of the myriad grape varieties known as Malvasia
• Field blends Marisa Finetti on the joys of mixed-grape vineyards

LEARNING

• Wine wisdom Including our new monthly column on sustainable wine, ‘The ethical drinker’

SPIRITS

• Distilled Spirits and cocktail insights – plus five of the best vodkas for an espresso Martini
• Clear contenders Colourless tequilas are enjoying their day in the sun, reports Clinton Cawood

GOOD LIVING

• Perfect pairing: Fig anchoïade A fruity take on a Provençal classic
• Travel: Provence by train & bike The south of France offers the best ingredients for a low-impact holiday, writes Ben Bernheim
• Travel: São Paulo wine lover’s guide The wine scene in Brazil’s most populous city is flourishing, reveals Sorrel Moseley-Williams

BUYING GUIDE

• Editors’ picks Tasting highlights
• Panel tasting: Sparkling wines of the Americas Our experts found plenty of quality and variety in a wide-ranging bubbly deep dive
• Panel tasting: South American Merlot Still a great choice for excellent-value and fruit-filled reds, including four Outstanding
• Expert’s choice: South America’s premium red blends Alejandro Iglesias recommends 18 blended wines from a continent better known for its single-varietals
• Weekday wines 25 top wines under £20, chosen by the Decanter team
• Weekend wines Priced £20-£50, seven standout buys to impress

COLLECTORS

• Marketwatch investment news Auction news; La Place de Bordeaux; Golden Vines 2024

REGULARS

• Meet the experts Decanter’s authors
• Uncorked News, views & more
• Andrew Jefford’s column The changing face of the Sherry world
• Guest column Melody Wong on life as a female sommelier
• Wine to 5: Ron Scott Wine-industry chief technical officer, at the cutting edge of AI in wine

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