Badrutt's Palace Hotel in St Moritz: Not just for winter...

A warm breeze wafts through the dense forest below carrying the scent of stone pines and wildflowers. Meadows burst with colour as butterflies flit among the gentians and edelweiss. Hiking, mountain-biking, river-rafting and horse-riding is the order of the day here.

This is not The Alps that most visitors are familiar with, but one that is increasingly sought – the fresh mountain air and lush scenery a welcome respite from the baking beaches of southern Europe. Hello, summer in St Moritz.

Sure, the ski season is still the main draw. In fact, Badrutt’s Palace Hotel and its legendary founder Casper Badrutt put the year-round holiday-in-the-mountains on the map for tourists back in 1896, when it first opened 130 years ago.

Arguably Switzerland’s showiest winter resort, boasting a visitors’ book packed with famous guests, from regulars such as Alfred Hitchcock, to King Charles and Elizabeth Taylor, hotel bookings are also buoyant in the summer months.

How to get there

The two-hour drive from nearest airport, Milan Malpensa, is worth the trip alone as it skirts majestic Lake Como before climbing the foothills into the Alps proper via the Maloja Pass, with its thrilling hairpin bends.

That said, 80% of the hotel’s guests prefer to fly in by private jet, landing on one of the world’s highest, oldest runways just three miles from Badrutt’s Palace.

With an altitude of 1,850m (6,053 feet), the hotel sits on the edge of St Moritz Lake in the scenic Engadine Valley, a turreted Gothic Revival landmark oozing glamour and old-world charm, yet with plenty of stylish, contemporary accents to broaden its appeal, including a vast state-of-the-art spa with a panoramic view to beat them all.

Inside Badrutt's Palace Hotel

Its lobby, the baronial Grand Hall, dubbed ‘the living room of St Moritz’, plays host to guests who vie for the best seats in front of the huge picture window that perfectly frames the lake and mountains beyond.

There, they sip morning coffee, glug Champagne throughout the day (chosen from 80 different producers), and down cocktails in the evening, before enjoying supper there, or in one of its 10 other restaurants that cleverly balance fine dining with casual.

Badrutt's Palace offers 163 rooms, including 47 suites. The accommodation ranges from elegant, traditional rooms and suites in the historic main building (think antiques, chandeliers and large marble bathrooms) to more contemporary rooms and suites in the Serlas Wing, which opened in 2025. The hotel guests rub shoulders with equally moneyed St Moritz residents, among them the Heineken family, Ikea founder Ingvar Kamprad and fashion titan Maurizio Gucci.

Dining at Badrutt's Palace

Among the dishes to be enjoyed are:

• Yellowtail sashimi jalapeño at La Coupole from celebrated Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa;
• Truffle and Champagne-laced cheese fondue at coveted mountainside eatery Paradiso;
• Tableside-prepared pressed duck at smart dining spot Le Relais;
• Crisp pizza with shaved fresh truffles at the hotel's hottest tables at Heuboden;
• Wildly popular butter chicken in Le Grand Hall itself from chef Jatinder Kumar.

After dinner

And when you’re done dining, there’s the hotel’s nightclub to slink into, King’s Social, with a menu overseen by top British chef Jason Atherton; and cigars to puff on in the hotel’s storied Renaissance Bar, where mixologist Matteo Oddo is currently shaking up a range of cocktails using a stash of forgotten wines and spirits (mostly ports, whiskies, brandies and vermouths) found behind a false wall in the cellar.

Palace Side-Sledge, anyone? It’s a riff on a Sidecar, made with 1960 vintage Cognac and Grand Marnier, yours for £132.

A treasure-filled wine cellar

And talking of the cellar, a candlelit tour is a popular activity for wine-savvy guests, who are guided around by ebullient head sommelier Cristina Iuculano as she points out its oldest, rarest bottles, including 1900 Château Lafite, and reveals her latest finds, before leading a tasting with canapes to match in the cosy sheepskin-decked Krug Stübli.

Yup, Badrutt’s Palace is a Krug ambassador, with large format bottles among the biggest sellers on the 1900-label list, the shelves groaning with some 35,000 bottles.

'It’s the third largest wine list in Switzerland. Our guests know what they want, and what they’re talking about,' declares Iuculano, who will also organise private excursions to renowned Swiss winemakers, chosen from the 60 or so producers she trumpets on her list.

Summer picnic

Another popular wine-themed activity is the hotel’s summer picnic on Corviglia Mountain, looming above the town.

So, armed with a picnic backpack laden with locally sourced ingredients – ours including coveted local cheese Engadiner Bergkäse, bread from famous baker Eigenbroetler and a bottle of Pinot Noir from one of Iuculano’s favourite Swiss producers, Donatsch, in nearby Bündner Herrschaft (about an hour and half from St Moritz), we hit the meadow on the upper slopes as a Golden Eagle soars high above, trying to forget that it’s our last day.

It’s a scene few can rival. Jagged peaks rise like immense shards of ice above the valley, sharpening the light and stretching the shadows.

In their lee, rows of vineyards wrap around fairytale villages whose views fall gently towards the slow waters of the River Rhine.

Graubünden feels like a closely guarded secret, far from city sprawl, yet it lies little more than an hour’s journey from Zürich.

At the warm northern gateway to the canton sits the Bündner Herrschaft, centred on the villages of Maienfeld, Malans, Jenins and Fläsch.

With roughly 400 hectares under vine, it’s compact in scale yet concentrated in rare talent.

The scenery is inseparable from mythology: the region has long been a corridor of commerce and ideas moving along the Rhine, and it was here that Johanna Spyri found inspiration for her tale of the mountain girl, Heidi.

The same luminous slopes that shape ‘Heidiland’ now frame a patchwork of vineyard estates growing 50 different grape varieties.

Viticulture dates back more than a millennium, though the mood today is decidedly contemporary.

Here, Pinot Noir dominates, accounting for more than 70% of production.

Known locally as Blauburgunder, it has become the region’s most articulate voice, capable of remarkable character and graceful ageing.

Altitude plays a defining role: vineyards are typically between 500 and 600 metres above sea level. Here, consistently warm summers meet cool alpine nights, preserving tension and freshness.

‘Burgundy of Switzerland’

A mosaic of schist, gravel and lime-rich soils adds further refinement. The moniker ‘Burgundy of Switzerland’ is often evoked, though the connection is philosophical rather than imitative.

As Mathilde Hug Pédeutour of Weingut Wegelin explains: ‘It’s not the climate that creates the link, but the small winemaking villages and the way we work the parcels, often less than three hectares.’

It brings Burgundian respect for precision and place.

While altitude preserves structure, the Föhn wind brings a unique signature.

Known locally as traubenkocher, or ‘grape cooker’, it funnels warm, dry air down from the Alps, clearing the skies and accelerating ripening.

It dries the bunches, curbs disease, extends harvest windows and intensifies fruit character while leaving the wines with a distinctly mineral backbone.

A contemplative glass

Pinot may be the queen of Herrschaft but its king is Completer. First recorded in Malans in 1321, the name derives from completorium (compline), the monks' final prayer of the day, after which a silent glass of wine was permitted.

By the late 20th century, the variety had all but vanished, its story saved only through a handful of tenacious local growers.

Today it covers approximately 10 hectares and is widely believed to descend from a single surviving vine in Malans.

In the glass, Completer is textured with notes of quince, green apple and mirabelle, with a gentle, savoury edge. Its racy acidity promises long ageing, held together by mountain freshness.

The producers redefining Swiss wine

Modern Graubünden wine owes much to the restless vision of Thomas Donatsch.

A pioneer who challenged convention, he helped redefine Swiss wine through bold experimentation, new plantings such as Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc and an uncompromising pursuit of quality.

Following his death in 2024, the estate continued under his son, Martin, the wines still balancing tradition with forward momentum.

Tastings at the family’s historic Zum Ochsen tavern offer insights into the Herrschaft’s past and future combined.

Elsewhere in Malans, Weingut Fromm reflects a story that stretches across continents.

The family helped shape modern New Zealand wine before returning to Graubünden, bringing global perspective back to alpine roots.

Today Marco Fromm crafts elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from steep village slopes.

Their restored 17th-century guesthouse allows visitors to linger longer.

Weingut Wegelin, meanwhile, marks a younger chapter in the Herrschaft. Since 2019, Rafael and Mathilde Hug have farmed the estate’s 10 hectares biodynamically, focusing on single-vineyard expression.

Their Chardonnays – particularly from the Bothmarhalde site, the canton’s highest at over 700 metres – are precise, personal and quietly progressive.

In Jenins, Christian and Francisca Obrecht, Demeter-certified since 2017, pursue a bold yet harmonious approach aligned closely with terroir.

Their on-site bottle dispenser allows for an efficient snapshot of their craft. The Adank family and Daniel and Martha of Weingut Gantenbein deepen the picture, each offering distinct readings of Pinot shaped by the same narrow valley.

In such a small landscape, nuance is everything.

Walking the Bündner Herrschaft

To appreciate the Bündner Herrschaft fully, it helps to move at walking pace.

Gentle wine trails link the four villages, threading through vines and orchards with constant views of the Rhine’s ‘golden valley’.

Every May, the Weinpromenade (‘wine walk’) transforms this quiet landscape into revelry, with dozens of producers exhibiting their wines along an easy path before the day closes with a communal dinner, music and generous pours.

Food and wine remain inseparable companions. Alter Torkel in Jenins commands sweeping Alpine views while championing a fiercely local wine list.

For something more rustic, Stall 247 in Maienfeld turns a former cow shed into a welcoming bar where regional bottles meet simple plates and easy conversation.

Nearby, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz offers five-star comfort alongside serious cellar selections.

Wine has been a constant thread through Graubünden’s long history, yet only recently has its reputation begun to travel beyond its borders.

Here, mountains and light collide, and the daily negotiation between man and nature leaves a signature that feels distinctly regal yet subtly audacious.

Six wines from the 'Burgundy of Switzerland'

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Swiss grape geneticist and author José Vouillamoz was in London in November to host a tasting during which he explained the origins of Syrah, how it arrived in his home country and why it works so well there.

The six exceptional bottles he opened could convert even the most stalwart Rhône-lover.

The origins of Syrah

To start with, we went back, all the way back – to the origins of the Syrah grape.

Vouillamoz says the first known document that mentions the variety comes from the Rhône Valley and dates to 1781.

But where does Syrah come from originally? He dispelled a number of common myths (it’s from Syracuse in Sicily, or Shiraz in Iran…) by explaining the grape’s genetic parentage.

It originated from a spontaneous crossing of Mondeuse Blanche (from Savoie) and Dureza (from the Ardèche). This makes Syrah a child of the Northern Rhône, and, as it happens, ‘a great-grandchild of Pinot,’ says Vouillamoz.

Dureza is likely named after its tough skin (dur means ‘hard’ or ‘tough’ in French). Though nearly extinct today, it has been recently replanted and vinified pure by a handful of inquisitive Rhône vignerons such as Yves Cuilleron and Pascal Jamet.

‘It’s extremely spicy,’ says Vouillamoz, ‘so we understand where the spice of Syrah comes from’.

Mondeuse Blanche has also nearly disappeared; perhaps because it rarely makes exciting wines by itself. But thanks to this variety, we get to enjoy not only Syrah but also Viognier, with whom it also shares a parent-offspring relationship.

From France to Switzerland

Syrah was introduced to Switzerland by an agricultural engineer named Dr Henry Wuilloud (1884-1963).

He visited Maison Jaboulet Vercherre in Tain l’Hermitage in 1921, and took cuttings back with him to his viticultural research station in the Valais.

His first vintage was 1925, which means Switzerland has now been making Syrah for exactly 100 years. (To provide a global perspective, this is not quite as long as Australia or South Africa, but around the same length of time as California, and much longer than New Zealand.)

The Valais is located in the southwest of the country and it’s the largest of the country’s six wine regions.

Today there are 215ha of Syrah in Switzerland, and the Valais is home to 80% of it. Despite its 100-year history, most Syrah vineyards are fairly recent; in 1991, there were only 19ha.

The average age of Swiss Syrah vines today is 23 years, and only 1% of plantings are over 50 years old.

Cool conditions

There are several reasons why Syrah thrives in the Valais. It’s sunny, windy and dry, with just 650mm of rain on average per year.

Soils are varied, but there are large outcrops of granite, schist and gneiss – Syrah-friendly soils also found in Côte-Rôtie and Saint-Joseph.

Alexandre Delétraz of Cave des Amandiers says: ‘We have perfect conditions for Syrah.’

He points to the high elevation vineyards (450m to 650m), which provide fresh conditions that favour high-toned floral and spice aromas. Days are warm but nights are cold – an important factor in producing aromatic wines.

Gilles Besse of Domaine Jean-René Germanier also underlines the long gap between véraison and harvest, typically 60 to 65 days.

He says this relatively extended period produces wines with elegance, ripe tannins and moderate alcohol.

‘We can wait until it’s ripe,’ he says. ‘In November, you still have green leaves, the vineyards are still working.’

Perfume and spice

The Valais is a cool climate extension of the Northern Rhône – and that’s exactly how their Syrahs taste: perfumed, spicy, weightless, graceful.

An appealing aromatic marker of Swiss Syrah is the prevalence of peppercorns, whether black, white or pink.

They don’t have the grip and heft of Cornas, nor the structure and might of Hermitage; they bring to mind Côte-Rôtie in a cool vintage.

The wines we tasted were far from uniform in style though; there is a range of different expressions, all from light to medium in body.

My only gripes are commercial. Firstly, the wines are quite expensive; those we tasted were the same price as decent Côte-Rôtie.

Given their quality, that’s not unreasonable. But it might feel like a barrier for those who haven’t tried the wines before.

Secondly, the Swiss only export 1% of their wines, making them hard to find – but all the wines we tasted are available somewhere in UK retail.

The best option of course is to visit Switzerland – which, on the back of this eye-opening tasting, is something I intend to as soon as possible.

After getting to know the Southern and Northern Rhône, the Eastern Rhône feels like a tantalising new frontier.

Matt’s pick of Swiss Syrah

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Swiss wine is one of the wine world’s greatest hidden secrets.

This discreet and exclusive country only has about 15,000ha planted to vineyards, according to the national wine body Swiss Wine Promotion, producing around 0.4% of the global total.

Despite the country’s tiny size, there is incredible diversity in its soils, landscapes and grape varieties, creating notable differences among its wines. Its highest vineyard sites are perched above 1,100m.

See Robin Kick MW’s selection of Switzerland’s finest red and white wines

Vertiginous variety

Chiselled into steep hillsides, they provide sun-kissed, well-drained patches of land perfect for grape growing. Lakeside vineyards are bathed in gentle breezes, offering unique microclimates.

The country’s vineyards are spread across six wine regions.

Valais is the largest and is home to the highest concentration of the country’s indigenous grape varieties.

Vaud, the second largest, encompasses most of the vineyards along Lake Geneva’s shores.

The other regions are: Geneva, known for its experimental spirit; Ticino, the heart of Swiss Merlot; Three Lakes, which includes lake Neuchâtel, is a top area for Pinot Noir; and finally Deutschschweiz, a region that encompasses several German-speaking cantons, including Graubünden, Zurich, Schaffhausen and Thurgau.

Great grape diversity

Swiss Wine Promotion notes 168 grape varieties currently registered by the national Federal Statistical Office for use in the canton-based AOC system, although fewer than 100 are planted on an area of at least 2ha.

Many varieties are indigenous, and at more than 3,400ha Chasselas (called Fendant in Valais) is its most planted white grape.

Though it can be shy when young, exceptional versions from top terroirs are capable of ageing for many years, revealing notable complexity.

Chasselas is the variety to pair with sumptuous cheese fondues, but its food-friendly style makes it capable of accompanying many other dishes, such as lake fish and seafood.

Over the past 15 years or so, Petite Arvine has been winning over aficionados’ hearts and palates with its crisp acidity, peachy core and saline finish.

But there are so many other varieties worth seeking out: Räuschling, Humagne Blanche and Amigne, as well as Heida (aka Païen or Savagnin) to name a few.

Beguiling reds

Reds can be beguiling, too. Cornalin, whose origins are not entirely defined but are thought to lie in neighbouring Aosta in northern Italy, has taken on its own deep, vinous personality in Valais.

Well-known international varieties such as Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot can also produce world-class results.

Less constrained by the traditions that define many of its neighbours, Switzerland approaches wine with pragmatism and a spirit of innovation.

Agroscope, the country’s trailblazing research institute, has introduced pioneering grape crossings over the years, such as Gamaret, Garanoir, Diolinoir and Doral, alongside resilient Piwi varieties such as Divico – crafted with ecological sustainability in mind.

While less than 2% of Swiss wine leaves the country, its rare gems are increasingly making their way onto international shelves – especially in the UK, US and Asia – while also garnering more attention thanks to the accolades they’ve received from competitions such as the Decanter World Wine Awards.

There has never been a better moment to discover the singular charm of Switzerland’s wines.

Breath of mountain air: 18 Swiss wines to try

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After two decades of passionate leadership, renowned winemaker Caroline Frey has announced her decision to withdraw from directing the family’s prestigious French properties.

Frey will refocus on her Swiss vineyard holdings and has helped to ensure a seamless transition at the family’s French wine estates, with her sister, Delphine, taking on greater management responsibilities.

The announcement comes after a recent health challenge that prompted deep reflection on her work-life balance and priorities.

In an emotional statement shared with the industry, Frey explained: ‘After 20 years of passionate commitment to Château La Lagune, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle Hermitage, and Château Corton C., life recently forced me to take a sudden and difficult pause.’

An emotional reorientation

‘This challenging time led me to reflect deeply on my choices, my balance, and my priorities. Today, with much emotion, I have decided to refocus on my Swiss vineyards, and to step back – without ever truly stepping away – from the beloved estates I have carried for so long.’

Frey’s decision follows a period of illness that, while resolved without lasting effects, carries a risk of recurrence if she does not reduce her pace.

She emphasised that this is not a farewell but a reorientation, allowing her to nurture her passion in Switzerland with the same dedication that has defined her career.

The Frey family’s strength underpins this transition. Caroline highlighted the enduring role of her father, Jean-Jacques Frey, founder of the family group, whose vision and commitment form the bedrock of their success.

‘His presence today is more precious than ever,’ she noted.

Stepping into the spotlight is Caroline’s sister, Delphine Frey, who has been increasingly involved in the estates’ management alongside their father. Delphine’s role, initially focused on communication, has expanded to oversee strategic direction and operations.

In her own words: ‘I am truly delighted today to take care of these family estates and to carry on what my sister has built with passion. These are estates rich with history, supported by outstanding teams who bring remarkable energy and momentum. Exciting projects lie ahead!’

Ensuring continuity with experienced teams

The experienced teams at each estate, long collaborators with Caroline, are well-equipped to maintain continuity during this period.

A new head winemaker is expected to be announced by the end of August or early September, with the selection guided by a commitment to excellence and respect for the terroirs.

‘There will be no rupture – only a carefully considered continuity, in both spirit and quality,’ said Caroline.

Caroline Frey’s legacy in French wine is profound. Since the family acquired Paul Jaboulet Aîné in 2006, she has spearheaded a shift to biodynamic farming across the properties, earning accolades for sustainable practices and exceptional quality.

Château La Lagune, purchased in 2004, achieved organic certification under her guidance, while Château Corton C. in Burgundy and the Rhône holdings, including the creation of Domaine de la Chapelle in 2023, have seen renewed prestige.

Her honours include the Insigne de Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite in 2017 and the Amorim Biodiversity Award in 2021.

As Frey turns her attention to Switzerland, the French estates remain in capable family hands, promising ongoing innovation and fidelity to their storied terroirs.

This chapter, as Caroline poetically puts it, ‘is not an end, but a continuation. A story written differently, yet always with love, dedication, and respect.’

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Switzerland’s Canton of Vaud – about the same size as the Rhône department in France or Gloucestershire in the UK – has it all for the eclectic traveller. Montreux, home of the world’s most famous jazz festival; Lausanne, the global Olympic Capital; Vallée de Joux, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, oozy Vacherin de Mont d’Or cheese, Swiss Riviera glamour…

And let’s not forget about the wine. Vaud is Switzerland’s second-largest wine-growing region, producing a quarter of the country’s wine from its six sub-regions. One of these is not only in the heart of the action, but its dramatic beauty, between Alps and lake, catapults it to the top of the Vaudois travel bucket list.

The Lavaux – the largest contiguous wine region in Switzerland – comprises about 800ha of vineyard terraces on the south-facing mountain slopes above Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) which stretch for 30km from the eastern outskirts of Lausanne to the Château de Chillon, just beyond Montreux.

The region was given UNESCO World Heritage status in 2007, to recognise and protect its significance as a centuries-long living cultural landscape – stone terraces that still stand today can be traced back to the 11th century, when Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries owned the land.

Today there are more than 10,000 of these terraces – some so narrow they only protect a single row of vines. If laid end to end, they would stretch more than 400km.

Villages and vines

While 14 villages comprise the Lavaux appellation, Dézaley and Calamin are the two designated grand crus. Dézaley – where the monks began their terraces – is one of Switzerland’s most famous vineyards, rising from Lac Léman at gradients of up to 100% (a 45° slope).

In addition to providing a breathtaking backdrop for photos, the lake plays a key role in the vineyard too. While not the Med, the Swiss Riviera enjoys a mild climate and the lake moderates temperatures further, as well as reflecting sunlight back on to the vines. This, combined with the heat retained by the stone walls, means the grapes enjoy an even ripening throughout the growing season.

Chasselas represents about 60% of all plantings here, and more than 90% of white grapes. Most wineries have one or more reds from Pinot Noir, Gamay or the twin crossings of Gamay and Reichensteiner called Gamaret and Garanoir, but Chasselas is undoubtedly the star.

It’s a grape that can show many sides to its personality, depending on the individual terroir (in Lavaux, soils range from marl, sandstone, clay, moraine and more), and how it is handled, both in the vineyard and winery.

Resulting wines can be anything from simple, fruity quaffers to more complex, weighty styles, and through the gamut of leesy, creamy barrel-fermented and aged examples. On the palate, expect moderate alcohol, bright acidity, flinty notes and pithy apricot and citrus blossom flavours that develop truffle and nougat tones with age.

Exploring the terraces

Walking is the best way to experience Lavaux’s historic terraces, vertiginous slopes and jaw-dropping scenery of vines, Alps and lake. The Lavaux World Heritage Association has two guided walking tours to book between May and October – a 3km, 2.5-hour ‘heritage hike’ on Saturday mornings and a shorter, more relaxed stroll on Sundays (from CHF20/£18 per person).

The Montreux Riviera tourist office, meanwhile, has mapped out a 2km walk between Epesses and Chexbres along which you can scan QR codes on panels along the way to get anecdotes, history and details on wines available from each vineyard you pass. Or to plan your own path, it has 40 walking, hiking, running and cycling routes across the Riviera region; the best one for the Lavaux vineyard terraces is Route 113, a 11.3km trail from St-Saphorin to Lutry.

If that feels too much exertion, soak up the majestic vistas from one of the two wheeled trains that cross the terraces. The green and yellow Lavaux Express runs two loops: one around Lutry and Grandvaux; the other encompassing the vineyards of Cully, Epesses and Dézaley (CHF17). The white Lavaux Panoramic, meanwhile, runs between Chexbres, St-Saphorin and Chardonne (CHF16). There are also several tours available to book on each train, including themed and seasonal excursions incorporating winery visits and tastings.

Between the many photo opportunities, find time for a few winery visits. This is a patchwork region of small growers, some of whom only work a handful of vines each, passed down through the generations. While it is advisable to book ahead, you’ll feel more like you’re dropping to sit on a friend’s patio for a drink and a chat than being given a slick spiel.

Winery visits

Opposite Grandvaux train station is Domaine Croix Dupleix, run by third-generation winemaker Maude Vogel. While she works with 14 varieties, her passion is showcasing the different Lavaux terroirs through 10 Chasselas cuvées – the pinnacle being the Argile Dézaley Grand Cru.

Louis Bovard in Cully is synonymous with Chasselas – not least in being a perennial medallist at the Decanter World Wine Awards; the Ilex cuvée from Calamin Grand Cru is delicious. Louis-Philippe Bovard, the 10th generation custodian of the family name and estate, is so determined to raise the variety’s profile as serious and ageworthy, he created the World Conservatory of Chasselas, researching 19 variants of the grape.

La Maison Massy is now run by fourth-generation brothers Gregory and Benjamin. Try their Clos du Boux, from a 1.7ha walled vineyard next to the grand 1630-built Massy residence of the same name at the top of Epesses village. Or the Chemin de Fer cuvée, from vines grown right next to the train line at the bottom of the Grand Cru Dézaley slope, making harvest time even more precarious than usual.

Also in Epesses village is Blaise Duboux. This 5ha estate has been in the Duboux family for more than 500 years, with Blaise the 17th generation winemaker. The wines are certified organic, but farmed biodynamically, the Les Murets, from a parcel in Villette, is savoury and complex.

Not far from Chexbres station is Domaine Bovy, a family estate since 1779, but dating from the 16th century. Before a tasting on the veranda (the St-Saphorin Vielles Vignes is the pick of the five Chasselas), visit the cellar to see the oak foudres which, since the 1940s, have been painted with images of the Bovy family and tableaux of Lavaux life.

Lavaux wine festivals

While a visit to Lavaux is memorable at any time of year, try to coincide your trip with one of the region’s many wine festivals.

On the first Saturday of May each year (3 May 2025), some two dozen winemakers in Epesses and Calamin join together to showcase the new vintage at Epesses Nouveau. And on the last Saturday (31 May 2025), Chardonne holds its annual Wine Market, where you can taste and buy wine from producers across Lavaux.

As part of Vaud Open Cellars, which sees more than 250 winemakers across the canton welcome visitors for tours and tastings over the Pentecost weekend each year, 89 wineries from Lavaux are participating in 2025 (7-8 June). The two-day tickets (CHF40 each) include a tasting glass, free transport across the entire canton as well as a CHF20 discount off one six-bottle purchase.

But the event not to miss is the annual three-day Lutry Harvest Festival, held on the last weekend of September (26-28 September 2025). Running since 1947, it is one of the biggest events in French-speaking Switzerland, celebrating the rich winemaking heritage of the Lavaux region in a colourful procession of floats, costumes, music and of course cellar-door tastings and street bars.

My perfect day Lavaux

Morning

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast on the terrace at Les Trois Couronnes then head to Vevey train station. Take the 30-minute scenic journey to Grandvaux, changing at Puidoux, and visit winemaker Maude Vogel at her family domaine, Les Croix Dupleix, opposite the station, for a late-morning tasting on the patio. Head to Maison Lavaux in time for its 1pm opening for an audio tour on the history and living cultural landscape of Lavaux’s UNESCO World Heritage listed vineyards.

Lunch and afternoon

Minutes away is Tout un Monde, for its inventive lunch menu, inspired by a global cuisine each month. Take your time wandering back the 5.5km through the vineyards, including the grands crus of Calamin and Dézaley, along Route de la Corniche – there are plenty of photo opportunities of the beautiful terraces stretching down to Lac Léman. You could stop at Le Deck for refreshments and more amazing views or continue to Domaine Bovy for a tour of the family’s historic cellars and a wine tasting on the picturesque verandah. Chexbres station is just up the road for your return train to Vevey.

Evening

After all that sightseeing, unwind in the spa at Les Trois Couronnes before sprucing up and splashing out for the gastronomic tasting menu and wine pairings at Emotions par Guy Ravet in the swish Grand Hotel du Lac, a five-minute stroll away.

Your Vaud address book

Accommodation

Hotel des Trois Couronnes, Vevey

A grande dame of the Swiss Riviera since 1842, this luxurious spa hotel offers 71 rooms, half of which face the lake and Alps, and panoramic terrace dining from two restaurants, one serving Mediterranean-Alpine fusion and the other Japanese Kaiseki.

Le Baron Tavernier, Chexbres

A salt-water spa hotel at the centre of the Lavaux vineyards, with incredible views down the terraces to Lac Léman and the mountains beyond from the 25 rooms and panoramic restaurant-bar The Deck – a favourite local hangout.

Hotel des Voyageurs Boutique, Lausanne

Central but in a quiet pedestrian zone, this family-run hotel is a convenient base both to explore the city and escape to the vineyards. As its name suggests, Restaurant-Brasserie Le Vaudois, four-minutes’ walk away, has an extensive range of local wines.

Restaurants

Ze Fork, Vevey

On the promenade, overlooking the lake’s 8m fork totem. Local beef is the specialty but there are lots of fish and veggie options, à la carte or in the five-course tasting menu. Good cocktails and Swiss wine list too. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9am-12am.

Tout un Monde, Grandvaux

Set in a 13th century church, with vineyard and lake views. There’s a Lavaux-only wine list, a classic å la carte and inventive tasting menu, plus a monthly-changing lunch menu inspired by a different global cuisine. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 11.30am-11pm.

Deli Social, Lausanne

Stylish, communal lunch counter, shop and experimental space. Enjoy excellent coffee and a weekly changing menu of homemade pastries, sandwiches and small plates, with a focus on local, seasonal and sustainable products. Open daily, 8/9/10am-3/4/5pm.

Things to do

Maison Lavaux, Grandvaux

Wine geeks, art lovers and children will all get something from this audio tour of the living cultural landscape of Lavaux’s UNESCO World Heritage listed vineyards, spanning the ice age to present day. The vast animated mural is amazing. Open Wednesday-Sunday, 1-5pm from CHF10 per person.

Train up to Rochers-de-Naye

A picturesque 55-minute cogwheel train ride ascending 1,600m from Montreux to the Rochers-de-Naye summit at 2,042m. Spectacular views of the Swiss and French Alps, plus alpine gardens, hiking trails and eateries. Runs year round; trains depart hourly. CHF72.80 return per person.

Walking tours

Book a guided tour of Montreux and Vevey through the Montreux Riviera tourism office to find out about famous residents Charlie Chaplin and Freddie Mercury, and explore Chillon Castle. In Lausanne, follow the tourist office’s Panoramic Stroll to take in the city’s highlights.

How to get there

SwissAir flies to Geneva from hundreds of cities worldwide. From there, you can take a direct 70-minute train to Vevey. Lausanne is closer, for those wanting a city, rather than a Riviera break, or you could stay in the heart of the Lavaux vineyards – Grandvaux, Chexbres, Cully or Puidoux being the villages with the best amenities. Switzerland Tourism’s Swiss Travel Pass entitles you to unlimited travel by train, bus or boat for 3, 4, 6, 8 or 15 consecutive days (from £233 per person).

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For time well spent beyond the bustling banks of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), head to the Vallée de Joux – birthplace of Swiss horology – a pretty 50km drive or two-hour train journey from Lausanne in the canton of Vaud.

Numerous luxury watchmakers call the valley home, including Audemars Piguet, which opened the Hôtel des Horlogers next to its headquarters in the village of Le Brassus in June 2022.

The hotel’s architects designed it to be entirely wheelchair accessible, sustainable and low energy, using locally sourced natural and biodegradable materials. Ultra-modern interconnecting ramps, boxed in with glass, follow the valley’s topography, zigzagging down the slope and allowing each of the 38 rooms and 12 suites to have unencumbered views of wild flower meadows and Risoud forest.

Connected with the valley

You feel part of the valley inside, too, with driftwood hanging from the reception ceiling, wall hangings depicting outlines and contours of Jura mountain peaks, and huge lamps in the Bar des Horlogers, Brasserie Le Gogant and private dining room La Table des Horlogers representing the undersides of mushrooms.

Your immersion in the local landscape and terroir extends to the menu, too. Here, chef Emmanuel Renaut (whose Flocons de Sel restaurant in Megève, across the French border in Haute-Savoie, holds three Michelin stars) works only with regional farmers, supplementing this with homegrown produce from the kitchen gardens as well as foraging for herbs, flowers, mushrooms and other edible plants.

Foraged botanicals and extracts also make their way into teas and treatments in the bijou spa, which offers two treatment rooms plus a sauna, hammam and sensory shower. Guests can take home their own valley botanicals too: wooden pencils in each room have a tip filled with thyme seeds, ready to plant.

Getting out and about

While the hotel has a small but high-tech fitness room, for those wanting to get a sweat on outside, there are myriad walking, hiking and biking trails in the Swiss Jura Mountains, or water sports on nearby Lac de Joux. In winter, the hotel is ski in-ski out and can arrange your equipment hire.

If you love cheese, make sure you visit the village of Les Charbonnières, just a few train stops away (or a 15-minute drive) – home to the Vacherin Mont-d’Or museum, dedicated to this famous AOP-designated soft cow’s milk cheese packaged in a round spruce box.

Even better, time your trip to coincide with the annual Désalpes in mid September, when the cows – adorned with bells and floral hats – are brought down in procession from their alpine pastures, before 6,000 festival visitors jostle to taste the first cheese of the new season.

The Canton of Vaud has six wine regions, and Hôtel des Horlogers is an easy 30km drive from the largest – La Côte – and a convenient stop on the way to or from Geneva airport. Home to half the Vaud’s vineyards, it’s a picturesque region of castles and rolling hillside slopes above Lac Léman, concentrated between the charming lakeside towns of Nyon and Morges.

In the mainly family-run wineries, the white grape Chasselas (aka Fendant) is king – a perfect match for Vacherin Mont-d’Or – with key La Côte subregions to look out for on labels including Mont-sur-Rolle, Féchy and Vufflens-le-Château.

Sustainable principles

As with its food (and with an eye on food miles), the hotel champions Swiss wines, with an emphasis on those from local Vaudois vineyards. The bar, too, is stocked entirely with Swiss spirits, including a syrup distilled from buds of local Risoud fir trees that is used instead of cassis in its signature Kir Sapin cocktail. (You can enjoy one free if you reuse your towels or decline the turn-down service.)

Further in keeping with its sustainability credentials, water is sourced from a spring in the valley and bottled in Le Brassus, and the hotel is paper and plastic free. Which means you order everything digitally via tablets – from your cocktails, to your dinner, and even the kind of pillow you want: such as hard, soft or infused with lavender.

For a hotel owned by a luxury watchmaker, you’d be hard-pressed to make that connection. There’s a small library at the entrance and some bookshelf seating-stairs with various tomes on modern and historic timekeeping, but nothing that shouts Audemars Piguet. It’s clearly a conscious (and welcome) decision, but there’s no escaping the fact that this connection is what draws most guests to the Hôtel des Horlogers.

Birthplace of Swiss horology

If you are an AP fan, then you’ll know you need to book well in advance to visit the Audemars Piguet museum and atelier (a few doors down from the hotel and designed by the same architect), as you will a visit to Blancpain, which also has its HQ in Le Brassus.

If you have – or want – more time on your hands (or wrist), in nearby Le Sentier, you can visit the Jaeger-LeCoultre atelier and the interactive Vallée de Joux watch museum, which details the history of this birthplace of Swiss horology.

Rates per night, including breakfast, start from £320 (Valley Guest Room) to £1,022 for the Forest Suite Romantic Lovers package, which includes two hour-long massages and two of the hotel’s signature cocktails.

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A new record was announced by Switzerland-based merchant ARVI after it sold the 27-litre bottle of Bibi Graetz Colore 2016 for 100,000 Swiss francs (£87,104). 

It’s the most expensive bottle of Italian wine ever sold, said the retailer on its Instagram account.

No details were given about the buyer of the wine, which contains the equivalent of 36 standard 75cl bottles.

Bibi Graetz founded his eponymous winery in 2000, in Fiesole near to Florence in Tuscany, and has since risen to become one of Italy’s most celebrated cult producers. 

The label of this large-format bottle of Colore is intended to depict the emotions of the 2016 vintage, said ARVI, a leading merchant for fine and rare wines in Switzerland.

It added the bottle label was created by Graetz himself, who grew up in a house of collectors and artists, to mark the winery’s decision to join La Place de Bordeaux global distribution system.

It said the 27-litre bottle’s case is also made from the wood of the barrique used to age the wine, with a stainless steel lid featuring Bibi Graetz’s signature.

Colore is a flagship wine for Bibi Graetz and Decanter’s regional editor for Italy, James Button, gave 98 points to Colore 2021 after tasting it in the UK last year, coinciding with its release via Bordeaux négociants.

‘Colore 2021 is incredibly energetic, with ripe red and black fruit aromas and a balsamic waft leading to a fleshy palate showcasing sweet and sapid raspberry, cherry and pomegranate,’ he wrote. It is sourced from old Sangiovese vines across several specific sites in Tuscany.

Testamatta, another key wine in the Bibi Graetz range, is produced from vines aged between 35 and 50 years.

Last year, the winery also released three limited-edition ‘Balocchi di Colore’ wines – showcasing the Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino varieties that have contributed to Colore since the wine was first created.

In June 2024, UK merchant Berry Bros & Rudd announced an exclusive partnership with Bibi Graetz, and subsequently offered the producer’s first Cabernet Franc wine. Only 1,200 bottles of 2021-vintage Balocchi No.7, Cabernet Franc – from Olmo in Fiesole – have been made, said the merchant.

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Zürich is a wine-obsessed city with an innovative approach to production and consumption. On its eponymous lake, experiments in maturation take place within specially designed buoys, while the medieval guild house-turned-restaurant Zunfthaus zur Waag has an outdoor fountain that spurts wine (sadly, mostly reserved for weddings).

On Lake Zürich’s sunnier side, the hills are braided with vines – including Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Räuschling – but only a fraction of wine is exported. It’s the same story for the rest of Switzerland, with only top winemakers such as Domaine Donatsch, Studach, and Gantenbein having some bottles escaping to cellars beyond the sky-scraping Alps. The Swiss love their wines and so will you (especially if you’re partial to Pinot Noir).

While Switzerland’s largest city is best known for its financial centre, it’s also a cosmopolitan metropolis with areas — such as Langstrasse and Europaallee — that recall hipster pockets of Berlin or Stockholm. Whether you’re intent on exploring the city’s best cellars in its cobblestoned Old Town or popping into a natural wine boutique while wandering the art deco streets, Zürich has you covered.

Five top spots for wine lovers

Wystube Isebähnli

The heart of Zürich hospitality resides in the Wystube Isebähnli — a creaking wood-clad corridor of a restaurant on the edge of the Old Town. In 2008, this 200-year-old former wine bar was taken over by Yücel Ersan, who has established it as a destination for the in-the-know gourmand. Its stainless-steel mousehole of a kitchen plays host to guest chefs serving up frequently changing tasting menus. And while the French-inflected cuisine is exquisite, it’s the wine list — spread across several 800-year-old cellars in the vicinity — that is Yücel and his sommelier sister Ebru’s true passion. At the restaurant, you’ll be given a list that’s short and to the point, offering wines from their collection that are at their absolute peak. If you’d like to explore deeper, ask for the full wine list in advance. Isebähnli has a focus on rarities with vintage depth from Bordeaux (1910-2020), Burgundy (1959-2021), Piedmont (1990-2018), Tuscany (1982-2020), Rioja & Ribera del Duero (1954-2019) and California (1994-2018). As the pair knows most of the Swiss winemakers personally, this is also the place to dive deep into the national wine scene.

Carlton Restaurant

Down a quiet lane off the shopping mecca of the Bahnhofstrasse, the Carlton inhabits the lower levels of a revamped Belle Epoque hotel. Its Art Deco interior is the ideal setting for monthly Gatsby parties that run late into the night and take advantage of its superb cuisine and 900-strong list. With a focus on Swiss and French (particularly Bordeaux) producers, you’ll find tantalising selections from Domaine Romanée-Conti as well as New World treasures such as Californian cult winery Sine Qua Non, among many others. On the à la carte, crowd pleasers such as Wiener schnitzel and beef wellington dominate, while chef Philipp Heering’s creativity is expressed in dishes such as the tangy and sweet strawberry gazpacho with basil and chilli, or the sea bass with salted lemon and avocado. For the full Heering, opt for Carlton’s five-course tasting menu with wine pairings (225 CHF per person).

Gamper Bar

The Gamper Bar’s tall windows and red leather banquettes upholster a corner of the trendy Langstrasse area with a hint of Spain thrown in. The bar is attached to a restaurant of the same name and this popular pairing is the brainchild of owner and chef Marius Frehner, formerly of three-Michelin-star El Celler de Can Roca. His staunchly sustainable outlook has created a 100-strong wine selection heavily weighted towards organic and natural wine from Europe. It also features a Champagne list, ideal for cutting through the richness of small plates such as oysters or burrata with smoky lardo and caramelised fennel seeds. However, should you wish for something more substantial, you can try for a table next door and discover Frehner’s ‘Surprise Menu’ of vegetable-forward courses.

Landolt Winery

The Landolt ancestor who began making wine in the early 1800s, so the story goes, had been preparing for a life of the cloth. When he discovered how profitable wine could be, he ditched theology and built up what would become the largest wine-grower in the city. Using six of Zürich’s 13 available urban hectares, the winery is best known for its Schiterberger Himmelsleiterli Pinot Noir grown on its original terroir – the steepest hill in the Zürich canton. The Landolt Weine Vinotheque showcases its 30-strong range, which includes popular Swiss white Räuschling, as well as wine produced through the unusual Austrian technique of Gemischter Satz (traditional field blend). If you’d like to see the vines after a tasting, it’s fifteen minutes on foot from the shop to the closest Riesling plantings. Alternatively, book in for one of Landolt’s five-hour guided wine hikes through the city (129 CHF per person).

Hotel B2

With its tell-tale chimney marking it out beside Google’s Zürich HQ, Hotel B2 inhabits the industrial shell of what was once one of the largest breweries in Zürich. Today, however, the focus has switched to wine thanks to the family of oenophiles that bought it in 2012. This is why the hotel’s centrepiece, like a sophisticated student fantasy, is its 20-shelf-high wine library containing 33,000 books (not all about wine, unfortunately). The wine list – more focused than the bookshelves – is curated by local wine hero and TV personality Beat Caduff, with everything sourced from within a 250km radius. Plenty of Italian and German wines make an appearance while travelling the least distance is a selection of Swiss winemaker Erich Meier’s 2021 Pinot Noirs. Rarities, predominantly Burgundian and Piedmontese, are enticingly displayed in a glass cabinet. Adjoining the hotel is a sizeable spa with a rooftop pool (half-price entrance for hotel guests), while in the stylish suites you’ll find a copy of wine journal Schweizerische Weinzeitung.

Things to do

If you’re an outdoorsy person, Zürich’s charms are instantly decipherable. Lace up your hiking boots and walk the forested pathways of the Uetliberg or seek solace from the summer heat in the limpid waters of Lake Zürich and its many lidos.

A lively burst of food-focused festivals is on offer (check dates before travel). Food Zürich has its hub of food stalls, bars and cooking demos located in trendy Europaallee. Accompanying this is an itinerary of both paid and free activities that in the past have included things such as multi-day sourdough workshops and free drop-in wine tastings.

Back at the lake, wine festival Expovina sees an armada of boats host walk-on wine tastings, with workshops held throughout the city.

How to get there

Zürich Airport is half an hour by public transport from the city centre. You can access 160 weekly flights from the UK to Zürich through Swiss Air. Upon arrival, purchase a Zürich Card and benefit from unlimited second-class travel on all public transport across the city as well as a host of other benefits.

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Located in southwest Switzerland, Verbier is best known as a luxury skiing destination – but there’s much more on offer than its famous après-ski. Indulgent restaurants with incredible wine lists, plus dazzling vineyards, make it an under-the-radar destination for wine lovers.

Get to know Verbier

At 1,500m altitude, the Swiss village of Verbier can be found in the northern part of the Val de Bagnes area, on the east side of the valley, facing the Grand Combin massif.

As with many ski villages, summers in Verbier are cool, and winters rarely rise above 1°C.

Verbier’s history stretches far beyond 1946, when its first ski lift was installed. The ruins of its castle denote an ancient history that is not even documented in local archives. Remains of a moat and crumbling churches provide a contrast against the picturesque wooden chalets and luxury boutiques.

Must-visit destinations for wine lovers in and around Verbier:

67 Pall Mall Verbier

Much of the frozen road from Geneva to Verbier is lined with vines. Intimate chalets can be glimpsed here and there – the perfect place for bon vivants to curl up with a glass of something decadent. It’s little wonder why London-based private members club 67 Pall Mall picked Verbier as its Swiss outpost.

67 Pall Mall Verbier first opened its doors in 2021, jetting Lucy Meza Ortega from its London club to be the new location’s head sommelier. Boasting 1,700 different wines, and 350 cuvées by the glass, the club has the biggest international wine list in Verbier. Non-members can also enjoy 58 wines by the glass in the downstairs wine bar.

While there’s certainly no shortage of mature classic wines to satisfy the distinguished palate (such as the 1989 Clos du Marquis St-Julien, which seduces the nose and reverberates on the palate), there is also a decided focus on Swiss wines. Try an incredibly fresh Syrah from the nearby region of Valais, or a sensational sparkling Chasselas. Ortega’s king-size wine list – and the expertise with which she navigates it for her guests – is truly impressive. But if you’d rather get high off your own supply, there’s a multitude of storage options for collectors to enjoy their own wines.

Rue de Médran 15, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland

Hôtel de Verbier

Situated in the very heart of the Place Centrale, the long history of Hôtel de Verbier is tied up with the history of Verbier itself. Built in 1947, it is the oldest family-owned hotel still in operation and is an ideal place to base yourself during your visit. Rooms are decorated with natural textures of stone and wood, with views of the Grand Combin massif. Plus, a downstairs gym and spa will ensure your legs get some well-deserved rest after a day on the slopes.

The hotel’s La Nonna restaurant serves as the breakfast eatery as well as the evening restaurant, boasting a rather delicious wine list. As you’d expect from the name, La Nonna’s wine list champions a range of Italian wines, but also offers a variety of Swiss wines, too.

Place Centrale 2, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland

Domaine La Colombe

Although Verbier itself has few vines of its own, an hour and a half drive will get you to Féchy, a village nestled in the appellation of La Côte. As it may have become apparent, the Swiss are huge fans of their own wines. In fact, 98% of Swiss wine is drunk within the borders, meaning only 2% is exported elsewhere.

Located on the hills that sweep down towards Lake Geneva, Domaine La Colombe welcomes guests for tasting experiences in its rustic tasting room. Whether you’d like simply an introduction to Swiss wines, or you’d prefer to get nerdy about single-vineyard expressions, there’s something to suit every palate. My advice? Ask nicely for an extra generous pour of the Marchandes Grand Cru and make some room in your bag for it – you’re going to fall in love. Check online for opening times.

Route du Monastère 1, 1173 Féchy, Switzerland

Chez Dany

A fantastic view reveals itself as you walk out of the piny forest and up towards the wooden chalet of Chez Dany, perched at the top of a mountain piste (accessed via a short ski, or a perilous walk). The sunset from Chez Dany is truly arresting, best enjoyed with garlicky snails, croûte jambon and a glass of Laurent-Perrier’s La Cuvée.

Hameau de Clambin 10, 1936 Verbier, Switzerland

Verbier: helpful hints

As Verbier is a ski resort, there are many businesses that choose to open only during the ski season, which normally runs from around late November to late April.

However, as its summer cultural programme expands, Verbier is becoming a village that can be enjoyed year-round. As the snow melts, you’re met with a dazzling green landscape, dotted with colourful wildflowers.

For those looking to stop at wineries, keep in mind that harvest peaks in October, so an impromptu visit may be more welcome earlier in the year. Additionally, many establishments are likely to be closed in the off-season, so make sure you check online before visiting.

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Sadly, the excellence of Swiss wines is unbeknown to many, mainly because less than 2% of the country’s wine is ever exported. Swiss wine’s lack of fame is not a question mark on its quality but rather because it is produced mainly for, and consumed happily by, the Swiss themselves. If you want to relish the Swiss nectar, you’ll likely have to fly there. And that’s precisely what I did.

While Switzerland has six wine regions, I decided to explore Geneva, the third largest wine-producing canton in the country, with more than 30 different grape varieties cultivated on one twentieth of its territory. And the best way to discover the wine trail of the Genevan countryside by yourself is on an e-bike.

Starting from the birthplace of the World Wide Web

Catching a tram from Geneva central station at 8:30am, I reached Meyrin in less than 20 minutes, where Gideon, my guide from ebiketour, was waiting.

‘The site where you are standing right now is where the World Wide Web was invented in 1989’, said Gideon as he explained about CERN, the European Organisation for Nuclear Research, before briefing me about the bike route.

‘Today we will be cycling 12 miles (20km) in the countryside of Geneva, guarded by Salève mountain in the south and Jura mountains in the north’, he continued, ‘and you’ll come across many vineyards, valleys and villages during your three-hour bike ride.’

The journey through bucolic landscapes

Wearing a fluorescent vest and helmet, I was ready to devour the beauty of the Swiss wines and countryside. We rode for an hour, mainly on a flat serpentine road immersing ourselves in Geneva’s wine trail while appreciating the countryside’s rural heritage. As I pedalled deep into the valley, I noticed the grape harvest season was almost over, and the lush vineyards had changed from vibrant and rich chlorophyll greens into the deep warm oranges, vivid yellows and golden browns of autumn.

At a roundabout, I saw grape harvesters singing and dancing to traditional Swiss songs in a trailer while sipping their Chasselas and Gamay. Sensing my curiosity, Gideon explained that grape harvest season heralds celebratory wine festivals in autumn. This was one tiny display of the mega festivities that unfold throughout the alpine nation, the biggest of which is a three-day festival held in Neuchâtel at the end of September. Another prominent festival is ‘Fête des Vignerons’, the Winegrowers’ Festival held (supposedly) once in a generation at Vevey since 1797.

Inhaling the crisp alpine air and soaking in the beauty all around, I forgot whether I was in Switzerland or France as all the signs, village nomenclature and even building architecture were quintessentially French. Silently cruising on the trafficless road, we crossed the villages of Bourdigny Dessous, Bourdigny-Dessus and Choully of the Satigny municipality before arriving at our first pit stop – Domaine Les Perrières.

Domaine Les Perrières – Peissy

The handbrakes came into action as soon as we reached the cellar of Domaine Les Perrières, an award-winning winery tucked away in the picturesque village of Peissy opposite the iconic bell tower of a thousand-year-old chapel. Tracing its origins back to 1794, the Les Perrières winery is today run by the eighth generation of the Rochaix family.

The molassic and clay soils and the region’s mild climate contribute to the estate’s fruit-forward wines made using 17 different grape varieties, said commercial director Frederic Rochaix. The incredibly aromatic Sauvignon Blanc and the indigenous Swiss variety Gamaret were my highlights. The apple juices were equally delicious.

Re-energized, we continued our journey. The landscape wore several outfits on the way – from beautiful sunflower meadows to golden vineries to giant cedars. We passed through hilltop hamlets of La Tuilière, Essertines and Malval before stopping at another family-run winery in the region.

Domaine du Centaure – Dardagny

They say the best view comes after the hardest climb; in my case, the treat was the wine. After trudging an uphill road, we reached Domaine du Centaure in the wine-growing village of Dardagny. We were welcomed with a broad range of wines to try, while learning about the significant role played by the Ramu family in the history of the Swiss wine industry since pre-1602.

The neutral, easy-to-drink Les Danaïdes Chasselas and the classy, supple Cuisse de Jupiter were certainly memorable for me. We also had the pleasure of exploring the food pairing potential of Swiss wine.

After enjoying a sensory wine-tasting journey, it was time to bid goodbye – but with an aim to return soon.

The cycle route

The short and primarily flat 12 miles (20 km) ride from Meyrin to Satigny, which I took, was a relatively easy route for cyclists of all abilities, according to Gideon. There are innumerable country cellars and farm shops along the way for people to casually stop by.

Although Geneva is just a stone’s throw away, oenophiles can sleep at hotels and B&Bs in Meyrin, Satigny, Russin or Dardagny. Domaine de Châteauvieux in Satigny is renowned for its idyllic setting in a vineyard and its two-star Michelin restaurant.

Practical tips

How to book: For a bike tour with wine tasting, contact ebiketour. For wine tasting only, contact the wineries direct (see above).

Best time to visit: March to October, when the weather is mild and dry. A particularly good time is late July to early August when vineyards are in full bloom.

Itinerary add-ons: CERN, Allondon Nature Reserve and Verbois dam.

Other wine tastings: Domaine Dugerdil, Cave de Stephane Gros and many more.

Restaurants: Domaine de Châteauvieux, Café de Peney and Vignoble Doré.

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Geneva doesn’t always get the credit it deserves. It’s often used as a first port-of-call on a ski holiday, but with a swan-dotted, marbled blue-green lake – one of the cleanest in Europe; epic views of the Jura mountains and Mont-Blanc; and a quaint cobblestoned old town, this charmingly international city of Michelin stars and hyper-local wine should be more than just a quick pitstop.

Like its neighbours, Switzerland produces great wine. But unlike its neighbours, that wine is rarely exported, making the country – and each of its cantons – exciting for oenophiles and approachable for novices. ‘Only around 2% of Swiss wines ever leave Switzerland,’ says Mikaël Grou, chief sommelier at Beau-Rivage Genève, a historic hotel with one of the largest wine cellars in Geneva, dating back to 1865. ‘It’s even rarer to find the wines of Geneva exported outside the canton because in the other cantons they prefer to drink their local wines.’

Out of the country’s six wine-growing regions, the canton of Geneva is the third largest and is surprisingly diverse.

‘The most produced grapes in Geneva are Chasselas for white and Gamay for red. Historically, those are the easy-drinking wines,’ says Grou.

While Gamay and Chasselas remain the most popular with the locals, especially the older population, ‘international’ varieties like Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Merlot are also now commonly grown in Geneva, as are the ‘newer’ Swiss varieties.

‘In the 1970s, the Swiss started thinking about creating grapes resistant to disease, and they created Gamaret and Garanoir,’ says Grou, both crosses of Gamay and Reichensteiner but with their own distinctive characteristics.

The Swiss tend to drink their wine young (Grou attributes this to historical low-quality production, which changed in the 2000s when entry-level competition from countries like Italy and Spain forced improvements), so it’s not common to find bottles in shops or on menus more than a few years old.

‘There is no cheap Swiss wine, but it’s rare to find hugely expensive Swiss wine,’ says Grou, citing a range of roughly £13 to £37 per bottle. Interestingly, there is no major mark-ups in restaurants because producers essentially keep the price the same for everyone.

‘You will more or less pay the same as in a restaurant, which is something very particular for Switzerland. Maximum, there will be a 20 per cent difference,’ says Grou.

Where To Try Genevan Wine:

Le Caveau de Bacchus

Le Caveau De Bacchus has three wine boutiques in Switzerland; however, its Genevan location is the most extensive with a separate spirits shop; a chic wine bar with over 40 wines by the glass; and labyrinthine, stone cellar packed with Swiss, French, Italian and Spanish finds. Le Caveau de Bacchus’ sommelier consultant Emmanuel Depreux recommends picking up a bottle of the slightly smoky, fruit-forward Garanoir Cuvée Albertine from the nearby women-led Domaine de la Vigne Blanche.

Le Blanc Valet

There’s no shortage of wine bars in Geneva. New to the scene is Le Blanc Valet, a warm and lively pick for Swiss and French wines. There are about ten wines available by the glass, but they change every two weeks, so it’s best to ask for recommendations. While you’re working your way through the multipage wine list, dig into hardy sharing plates of duck confit parmentier and bubbly tartiflette, and end the night with an aromatic prune eau de vie from Distillerie Morard Le Bry in the hills above Montreux.

Les Perrières Cave & Domaine

As one of Switzerland’s largest estates with over 100 hectares, the award-winning Les Perrières has been in the Rochaix family for eight generations. ‘We say we produce vin de cepage, wines that are true to the grape,’ says Frédéric Rochaix of the 17 wines on offer at the postcard-perfect laurel- and wisteria-fringed estate in the village of Peissy. Les Millerands Chasselas de Peissy is a true-to-character, approachable Chasselas with notes of pear and white flowers (pair this with gruyère and vacherin, the two cheeses commonly found in fondue in Geneva), but for something special try the Coteau de Peissy 1er Cru, an interesting blend of Viognier and Pinot Blanc. ‘No French winery would make this blend,’ says Rochaix.

Domaine De La Planta

Spearheaded by twin brothers Frédéric and Jean-David Gaillard, Domaine De La Planta is a midsize winery with 12 hectares and 29 wines. Grab a bottle of their oak-aged Lili Garanoir (‘a favourite of Michelin-starred restaurants,’ according to Jean-David), and go for a picnic among the vines.

Beau-Rivage & Le Chat-Botté

With sensational lake views and an elegant, old-world aesthetic, the antique-filled Beau-Rivage is not only one of the oldest and most luxurious hotels in Geneva, it is also the place to stay for wine-lovers thanks to its dizzyingly impressive wine list and candle-lit wine cellar, the largest of any hotel. It is linked to their Michelin-starred restaurant Le Chat-Botté by the impressive Chef Dominique Gauthier, a master of regional products like pike—pulled right from the lake—and perfumed honey from his own hives. Start the night with a cellar tasting with Grou before heading upstairs for dinner. Grou’s recommendation: pair Gauthier’s rich and juicy pork belly with a Gamaret from Domaine des Balisiers for ‘a bit of vivacity and a bit of tannins.’ The hotel also hosts special wine dinners throughout the year featuring different winemakers and estates from around Switzerland and the world.

Baghera Wines

Launched by two Christie’s alums, the prestigious Baghera Wines is best known as a fine wine auction house with over £81 million in sales since its inception in 2015. Recently, the outfit expanded to include an exclusive boutique and an even-more-exclusive private members club (with just 20 members), housed within Beau-Rivage. While you can’t get into the club without an invite, swing by the bijou boutique for a peek at the rare wines, including some hard-to-find aged Swiss bottles like a 2005 Comtesse Eldegarde Cabernet Franc.

The Details:

Geneva Airport is only 20 minutes from the city centre. There are over 160 weekly flights from the UK via Swiss Air, with fares starting at £54. Semi-private aviation company Aero has also recently started to fly to Geneva from London Farnborough. Travellers can book seats on an ultra-luxe bespoke 16-seat Aero aircraft with rates starting at £1,200.

The famous Swiss efficiency and precision applies to the Swiss Travel System: Pick up a complimentary Geneva Transport Card at your hotel, which grants free city transport including rides on the Mouettes Genevoises, the canary-yellow ferry boats. For more information on Switzerland and Geneva visit the national and local tourism sites.

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Who wouldn’t want to spend a weekend in one of the most beautiful viticultural regions of the world, where vineyards, lakes, mountains and urban culture meet? Vaud makes for an unforgettable trip, and visitors will want to return to again and again.

Friday

Arrive at Geneva Airport. Hiring a car is recommended but not absolutely necessary, as all of the destinations mentioned here can be easily reached via train and some walking. But keep in mind that timings between destinations will generally be slightly longer.

Though vineyards will be visible shortly after leaving the airport, Lavaux will take approximately one hour to reach if there is not much congestion, but traffic can be heavy in this area during peak times. Train travel would also take one hour.

Arrive at Auberge de la Gare in Grandvaux. This charming hotel is next to Grandvaux train station, on the upper tracks that run along the top of Lavaux (most Vaud destinations are accessed via the lower tracks by the lakeside). There is parking, a lovely view and an excellent restaurant, known for its steak tartare and its fresh perch fished directly from the lake.

If travelling by train, stay at Hotel Lavaux or Auberge du Raisin which are close to the lower train track system, making it easier to get to the various destinations via rail.

Saturday

Take the train from Grandvaux or Cully to Lausanne. Take a walking tour to discover more about this ancient city that is also home to the International Olympic Committee. Lausanne is a ‘layer cake’ city built on steep slopes, meaning there are three levels to it. The metro, a sophisticated funicular system, will help to navigate the city’s steep hills.

In the historic city centre, visit Durig chocolate shop, offering artisan organic chocolates, and La Ferme Vaudoise, which sells local delicacies including meats, cheeses and other farm products. Don’t forget to visit the trendy Flon district, named after the city’s river.

For lunch try the atmospheric Restaurant Vieux-Lausanne or Café du Grütli, both of which are in the historic centre. In game season, Vieux-Lausanne serves a delicious spit-roasted wild boar, while Café du Grütli makes one of the region’s tastiest cheese fondues and steamed omble chevalier (Arctic char) fished from the lake. Both feature well-chosen wine lists with an excellent selection from Switzerland and beyond.

Return to Lutry and take the hour-long Lavaux Express, a tourist ‘train’ that twists through Lavaux’s dramatic vineyard trails. The season runs from 3 April – 3 November. Lutry is a quaint village and worthy of some discovery of its own.

A seven-minute drive from Lutry will take you to Frères Dubois in Cully, one of the region’s best wine producers. Its Dézaley Grand Cru Chasselas are some of the most ageworthy wines in the region. With advance booking, the estate can arrange a tasting of its older vintages, dating back to 1971. But its newer releases are some of the best in the region as well.

Book a table for dinner in St-Saphorin at Auberge de l’Onde, which offers beautifully refined Swiss cuisine. You may be served there by Vaud’s most revered sommelier, Jérôme Aké Béda, GaultMillau’s Swiss Sommelier of the Year 2015. Wine critic Robert Parker famously dined here incognito in May 2011 and was reportedly spellbound by Aké Béda’s talent and his Swiss wine suggestions. The auberge also offers a brasserie for a more relaxed setting.

Sunday

Start your day at 10.30am with a tasting at Lavaux Vinorama in Rivaz. Switzerland relaxes on Sunday and many establishments are closed, but not Vinorama. It lists 300 different Lavaux wines; an excellent way of discovering the various villages and producers. Do not miss the film Une Année Vigneronne, which charts the work of a grower-vintner over the seasons. If you think it’s too early in the day to taste, Vinorama is also an excellent place to buy bottles to bring back home.

From Rivaz, drive 30 minutes to Aigle (or travel by train – the journey time is the same). Visit the medieval fortress Château d’Aigle, an imposing structure that was once used as one of the country’s worst prisons. Today, it houses an impressive wine museum.

Eat lunch across the cobblestoned street at La Pinte du Paradis. Try a glass of Mon Vin, a delicious and unique Chasselas fermented in amphora from Cave Borloz, a tiny 2.5ha domaine in Aigle.

Returning to Geneva airport from Aigle takes just over an hour by car or around one hour 30 minutes by train.

Your Vaud address book

Accommodation

Agora Swiss Night by Fassbind, Lausanne

A quaint yet modern version of a Swiss chalet, located close to both the train and metro stations. Comfortable, calm and good value.

Auberge du Raisin, Lavaux

A quaint, traditional Swiss hotel and restaurant located close to the lake in Cully. Lots of wooden panels, a fireplace and a cosy country feel. The restaurant serves refined cuisine.

Domaine du Burignon, Lavaux

One of the five wine estates owned by the City of Lausanne. Located within the St-Saphorin vineyards. A perfect place to wake up to a lake view. Good for couples and families with older children. Two suites and one apartment.

Hotel Lavaux, Cully

A newly renovated, modern hotel in Cully facing the lake. Ideally located for vineyard visits in the Lavaux. Restaurant on site.

Restaurants

Ta Cave Lausanne, Lausanne

An informal wine bar that serves delicious Swiss salumi and smoked meats, cheeses and other nibbles. A great place for a glass and a snack. Wines from Switzerland and further afield.

Auberge de Rivaz, Lavaux

A quaint hotel/restaurant with glorious views of the Alps and Lake Geneva. The chef Thierry Bréhonnet previously worked at the Auberge de l’Onde before moving here last October. Known for its delicious updated brasserie classics.

Robin Kick MW is a wine consultant, educator and judge based in Switzerland. She formerly worked at Christie’s in Los Angeles and as a buyer at Goedhuis & Co in London.

Over three weeks this summer, Vevey in Switzerland will be transformed into a stage. The Fête des Vignerons will be coming to town. But this is not any ordinary fete. This one happens only once in a generation.

While Vevey might not be considered a modest town in stature (it is the home of Nestlé HQ), it is modest in size. Nevertheless, its population of just under 17,600 people will welcome up to 400,000 visitors over the course of the 25-day Fête des Vignerons 2019 celebration, this July and August.

In order to carry off this tremendous feat, 1,000 volunteer organisers and 5,500 performers will join forces. There will be a colossal arena built in Vevey’s historic market square, which can seat 20,000 spectators, the equivalent of The O2 in London. All will be overseen by the Confrérie des Vignerons.

The history

In the Middle Ages and up until the 19th century, the vineyards in Lavaux and Chablais were owned by the bourgeoisie and the Bernois authorities during their occupation (1536-1798). They did not work their own land but hired vigneron-tâcherons (wine-growers) to manage their vineyards for them. Since the landowners could not be on site all of the time, an organisation was created that oversaw the work: the Confrérie des Vignerons. This is still the main role of the Confrérie today.

Over time, the Confrérie realised that better work was achieved when skilled wine-growers were rewarded. In the beginning, this celebration was fairly low-key but over time, the proceedings grew into something far more elaborate and the Fête des Vignerons was born.

The first Fête took place in 1797, followed by 1819, 1833, 1851, 1865, 1889, 1905, 1927, 1955, 1977, 1999 and now 2019. Gaps between celebrations varied between 14-32 years, depending on world events and wars. Today, the gap between Fêtes ranges from 20-25 years, with the date – always an odd-numbered year – decided by the council members of the Confrérie des Vignerons.

Plan your visit: Vevey Fête des Vignerons 2019

• Fête des Vignerons 2019 will take place from 18 July to 11 August 2019

• Ticket prices start at CHF79. Some tickets will be available to buy on the day

• Demand for hotels in Vevey will be high, but there are many options. The town is well placed on the Swiss rail system. Geneva is an hour away; Sion, the ancient capital city of Valais, is 50 minutes away, and Lausanne just 15 minutes away. Driving is not recommended due to limited parking.

• The show will last for around 2.5 hours, without an intermission

• For details and to buy tickets, visit www.fetedesvignerons.ch. To buy a full package, visit www.hotelfevi19.ch. For accommodation only, visit www.booking.com/region/ch/lake-geneva.en-gb.html.

The event

Each Fête over the years has been unique, though recent editions have followed a similar programme. The first day features the coronation and awards ceremony for the top wine-growers, followed by a spectacular show. The same show will then be performed daily (or nightly, depending on the date). This year, the lead dramatist and director of the Fête is Daniele Finzi Pasca, a Swiss native from Ticino. He has previously choreographed monumental shows such as the closing ceremonies of both the Turin and Sochi Winter Olympics, as well as Cirque du Soleil performances and operas in London, Naples and St Petersburg.

Pasca will tell the story of the vineyard worker and the vines throughout the growing season, as viewed through the eyes of a child and her grandfather who is in the midst of harvest. With a fantastical approach, similar to the surrealism of Alice in Wonderland, objects will come to life and spectators will be transported to a magical world surrounded by music and visual effects. But the show will also demonstrate the challenges, and solitude, faced by vineyard workers.

During the performance, spectators will also experience an enchanting choral rendition of Ranz des Vaches (also called Kühreihen or Lyoba), a celebrated folk tune that was played by Swiss herdsmen with Alpine horns as they led their cows to and from pasture. many Swiss people view this melody as their honorary anthem; indeed such is their connection to it that it is said people will weep if it is played when they are far from their homeland.

Outside the main performance, food and drink stands, children’s activities and other entertainment will be on offer around the centre of town. Each day a different Swiss canton will be the guest of these festivities, focusing on their own regional culture and gastronomic fare. These extra activities will be free of charge to access.

The Fête des Vignerons is a singular, once in a generation event – full of culture, music and wine. the perfect reason for any wine lover to visit.

Wine events to be held around Vaud in 2019

3-8 April Divinum, Morges

A wine exhibition in the picturesque lakeside village of Morges, featuring more than 1,200 wines to taste, from all over Switzerland and beyond.

8-9 June Caves Ouvertes Vaud (Vaud Open Cellars)

More than 300 wine producers in Vaud open their cellars for tastings. Many will feature food by Michelin-starred chefs and other special activities.

27–29 September Fête des Vendanges, Lutry

A weekend of concert performances, open cellars at local wineries, and family-friendly events including a guided walking tour for families, through the vineyards.

Robin Kick MW is a wine consultant, educator and judge based in Switzerland. She formerly worked at Christie’s in Los Angeles and as a buyer at Goedhuis & Co in London.

Geneva or Zurich may be better-known place names in Switzerland, but the Canton of Vaud (one of the country’s 26 federal states) rides on their coat-tails. At its core lie Nestlé, Switzerland’s second-largest company; the ‘Olympic City’ of Lausanne; and Montreux, home to arguably the greatest jazz festival in the world. But around its buzz, there is also calmness and beauty. The vineyards that blanket the slopes in front of Lake Geneva confirm that this is not just a region of industry, but of significant agriculture as well.

Vaud produces one quarter of all Swiss wine and is its second-largest wine region. Its vineyards frame most of the northern half of Lake Geneva (known locally as Lac Léman). But its size is not its main feature: it is also one of Switzerland’s most beautiful regions. Lavaux, its viticultural core, features thousands of south-facing stone terraces. Bathed in balmy breezes and fanned by lakeside palm trees, these terraced vineyards were recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. They were chiselled into its slopes starting in the 12th century by Cistercian monks. Over time, the network of terraces grew, and today there are more than 10,000 stone walls extending across 400km of the region.

Chasselas, the king

The sheer viticultural diversity is remarkable, as there are a total of 55 grape varieties planted. While these include grapes borrowed from France, Germany and elsewhere, as well as crossings, hybrids and several native species, the region’s grande dame is Chasselas. Indigenous to the area, this variety makes up 92% of white plantings as well as 60% of total plantings in Vaud. So dominant is Chasselas that the region’s second most important white variety, the international Chardonnay, totals only 1% of all plantings.

Chasselas is unexpectedly multifaceted. Sometimes gently spicy, round and occasionally waxy like Pinot Grigio, with notes of orchard fruit and citrus like Chardonnay, it feels familiar yet different.

Catherine Cruchon of Domaine Henri Cruchon in Morges further illuminates: ‘Chasselas has a unique profile because, to my knowledge, all other grape varieties are built on at least two of the three components: alcohol, acidity and aromatics. Chasselas is not strong in any one of these, yet it can produce remarkable wines. Moreover because it is a neutral grape, it is an excellent transmitter of terroir. If you take the time to get to know it, you will discover a nuanced spectrum of textures and structures. There’s no other variety like it.’

With plantings of Chasselas so widespread, it can reveal various expressions depending on clones, soil, microclimate and winemaking. For example, in La Côte, the sub-region between Geneva and Lausanne, the vineyards are set back from the lake and are planted on undulating hillsides, similar-looking to those in Burgundy. This area generally produces softer-structured, more delicate wines with slightly lower alcohols due to deeper soils and less sun exposure.

Lavaux’s dramatic south-facing, terraced slopes have poorer soils with less earth, and profit from the sun being reflected from the lake, helping with ripeness. Its wines tend to be fuller, but also more mineral and ageworthy. Its two jewels – Dézaley (54ha) and Calamin (16ha) – are Vaud’s only grand cru single vineyards. They sit nestled one above the other and give a yin and yang experience of Chasselas – Dézaley offering density and power, while Calamin is all lace and refinement.

The semi-mountainous Chablais, meanwhile, links Lavaux and neighbouring Valais – the driest of Switzerland’s wine regions. Though Chablais’ vineyards are farthest from the lake, the warm foehn wind travels through the valley, concentrating the grapes. Its wines tend to be broad, nicely concentrated and moderately powerful, with stony undertones.

Despite regional variations, winemaker influence cannot be underestimated. Traditionally, Chasselas was made to suit Swiss tastes – with riper fruit, lower acidity, a touch of residual sugar and a little carbon dioxide to give some lift. However, change is in the air and Chasselas is becoming fresher, tauter and drier: a welcome move for those who are used to crisp, mineral-driven whites.

Adventures in red

It’s not all Chasselas though, with red varieties making up 34% of the Vaud’s vineyards. The four most-planted varieties are Pinot Noir, Gamay – including Plant Robert, a rare, ancient Gamay biotype that is fleshier, darker and more compact in texture – Gamaret and Garanoir, two siblings that are crosses between Gamay and Reichensteiner, itself a white-skinned German crossing. The latter pair were created in 1970 by Agroscope, Switzerland’s renowned agricultural research facility, as varieties with greater natural resistance to fungal diseases than Gamay, as well as deeper colour.

While many of the region’s reds are blended to complement one another, some excellent examples can be found as varietal wines in their own right. Both Plant Robert and Gamaret are particular successes and are worth seeking out. Plant Robert even has its own society of wine producers, who originally came together to rescue the biotype from near extinction.

Today, Vaud produces some of the most exciting wines in Switzerland. Despite the high quality, surprisingly only 1%-2% of Swiss wine is exported. Yet the more one tastes, the more it becomes apparent why the Swiss would keep these treasures for themselves. From its terroir-driven Chasselas to its fresh, often surprisingly fleshy reds, these are clearly wines worth discovering, be it here in Switzerland, or in any market where they can be tracked down.

Robin Kick MW is a wine consultant, educator and judge based in Switzerland. She formerly worked at Christie’s in Los Angeles and as a buyer at Goedhuis & Co in London.

Its wines may be little known beyond its borders, but Switzerland boasts a wealth of characterful viticultural areas and many native grapes. Robin Kick MW introduces four key varieties and recommends 10 excellent wines to try...

Few wine lovers are fully aware of the viticultural beauty of Switzerland. The country of Alpine peaks, countless lakes, velvet green pastures and even palm trees boasts some of the world’s most dramatic and breathtaking vineyard vistas.

Scroll down for Robin Kick MW’s top 10 Alpine wines

The country’s wines are also little known: only about 1% of production is exported, as most bottles are consumed within Swiss borders. For an industry of mostly smaller domaines with modest volumes, high labour and land costs, along with a thirsty domestic clientele, exporting has never been easy. But the Swiss are proud of their own wines and rightly so; there are some beautiful and highly individual styles to discover, and not all will break or even fracture the bank.Unlike other European countries, Switzerland is something of a mini United Nations, being home to German, French, Italian and Romansch-speaking nationals. But its most important viticultural areas lie in Suisse Romande, Switzerland’s French-speaking hub, where 80% of the country’s wines are produced in its largest wine regions.This intricate and diverse zone includes the regions of Valais, Vaud and Geneva. Within it are plantings of some of Switzerland’s most exciting indigenous varieties, including Chasselas, Heida/Païen and Petite Arvine. The varying styles that can be produced from these grapes create a cornucopia of personalities and experiences for wine lovers to enjoy.

Swiss wine: the facts

Vineyard area 14,800ha (about 24% of Bordeaux vineyard surface area)

Grapes More than 250 varieties planted, 21 indigenous

Production Equal amounts of red and white with a smattering of rosé (95% of wines AP)

Exports 1% of wines produced

Wine consumption Fourth highest in the world per capita (40 litres vs 24 litres in the UK in 2014)

Sources: www.swisswine.ch, www.oiv.int

Petite Arvine

The greatest indigenous white grape of the Valais is Petite Arvine. Also simply known as Arvine, in historical texts it is mentioned as far back as 1602. Although Petite Arvine can be found in other Swiss regions, an impressive 99.5% of the country’s total plantings are located in the Valais.

Petite Arvine’s wines hit a high note with pronounced acidity, a sleek mouthfeel with notes of peach, citrus fruits, fennel seed and a saline touch. Because of these appealing attributes, it has an increasingly passionate following. But the Valais region is neither simple nor small, so its wines can vary significantly in style.

A highly mountainous area, the Valais boasts a dramatic range of vineyard altitudes. Plantings along its valley floor range from 400m-500m above sea level, while its most elevated and ancient, 800-year-old south-facing terraces can go as high as 1,100m, some at gradients up to 70°, even steeper than Côte-Rôtie in France’s Rhône Valley.

Its most renowned vineyards include Combe d’Enfer in Fully, a steep and chiselled mountain-hollow, and the Petite Arvine grand cru vineyard in Chamoson. Both make taut, mineral and concentrated wines. Some exceptional examples of these unique vineyard plots are produced by Henri Valloton in Fully and Didier Joris in Chamoson.

Mike Favre of René Favre & Fils, another top producer in Chamoson, points out that winemaking also plays an important role in the final style of the wines. ‘The original Swiss style is to ferment and age Petite Arvine in stainless steel, keeping the purity of the fruit,’ he explains. ‘But a number of years ago we were asked by our English importer if we could produce a white wine fermented in French barrels, like Burgundy. We decided to try it and our Petite Arvine became a totally different wine, but it turned out well. However, we only use our oldest vines from our grand cru Chamoson vineyard, because it has the concentration and minerality to balance out the oak,’ he adds. Today, a number of other producers have followed suit.

However, dry wines are not Petite Arvine’s only success. It can also be used to make gorgeous late-harvest dessert wines – along the lines of Sauternes but generally showing more lift and energy than their Bordeaux counterparts. Anyone who has tasted one of Marie-Thérèse Chappaz’s mind-blowing Grain Noble bottlings will agree.

Heida/Païen

Providing some stiff competition for Switzerland’s starlet variety Petite Arvine, Heida is the same grape as Savagnin Blanc, the pride of France’s Jura region. Heida is a close competitor in terms of popularity, and though its wines tend to hit a lower octave, with slightly softer acidity and a rounder mouthfeel, they can be notably vibrant.

While not indigenous to the Valais, Heida has a long history here, dating at least as far back as 1586 in the high-altitude vineyards of the Visperterminen, a village in the upper Valais. As such, the Valais is the only Swiss region allowed to call it by its its ancient Swiss name, Heida (or Païen in French). But it can also be found in Vaud.

Wherever it is grown, high altitude is an important factor for Heida. Jean-Daniel Suardet of Château Maison Blanche, one of the few estates that grows the grape in the Chablais area of Vaud explains: ‘Heida is a variety that needs altitude or cooler areas to grow successfully. Potential alcohol levels can rise very quickly while acidity plummets, so it must be watched vigilantly before harvest.’

This can be felt in some of Heida’s wines, which can embody a weightier, honeyed style with some bitterness on the finish. But this is a variety with incredible biodiversity, enabling it to wear many masks in terms of its flavour profile, texture and body. So there are many Heidas that have notable freshness and display notes such as pineapple, zesty ginger, citrus fruit and spice. Quite fitting for such a seductive wine. And like Petite Arvine, it can also make exemplary sweet wines.

For those looking for a leaner, more chiselled version, talented winemaker Frédéric Dumoulin at Cave l’Orpailleur is worth seeking out, as is Domaine du Chapitre owned by Provins, Switzerland’s largest wine producer who makes impressive quality wines from both its cooperative side and its own estates.

Chasselas

Though the name Chasselas features on a map of France’s Burgundy – as do the villages of Chardonnay and Gamay – research shows that the Chasselas grape (aka Fendant in the Valais) does indeed have Helvetian roots.

Though it is one of Switzerland’s greatest vinous treasures, it is also one of its most misunderstood, due to distinct variations in quality and style. Much of this variation has to do with winemaking, but regional differences and clonal variations have pronounced influences.

A traditional Swiss style tends to show riper fruit flavours of orchard fruits and citrus, with lowish acidity, pronounced spice, a dab of residual sugar and a gentle spritz. But recent vintages show that winemakers are starting to produce a different style as tastes evolve.

Some are picking earlier than before and even blocking the malolactic fermentation to maintain higher acidity levels. As Benjamin Massy of Domaine Luc Massy in Lavaux explains: ‘Though we do carry out a complete malolactic fermentation, we really like wines that are fresh, dry and still with good delineation and minerality.’ Flavours are more discreet, focusing more on citrus and almonds.

But the style can also change depending on topography, soil and climate. Emilienne Hutin of Domaine des Hutins, who produces one of Geneva’s top Chasselas from her family’s premier cru Bertholier vineyard, explains that in Geneva and La Côte (the first western sub-region of the Vaud), the hills are more rolling without the same drainage as Lavaux’s terraced vineyards or the dryness of the Valais. ‘There is more humidity and our wines tend to be a little softer and more open from a young age,’ she says.

Lavaux is the Vaud’s greatest sub-region. An area of natural beauty, its terraced vineyards were classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007. Lavaux is also home to the only grand cru Chasselas vineyards, Dézaley and Calamin, respectively producing the country’s most powerful and ageworthy Chasselas, and arguably its most mineral and lacy.

Chasselas also demonstrates extensive biodiversity. According to Dr José Vouillamoz, Switzerland’s renowned grape geneticist, more than 300 clones of one biotype alone have been discovered. At Louis Bovard’s Chasselas Conservatory in Rivaz, visitors can compare 19 of these clones, all grown on his estate, and taste five of the main ones planted in the Vaud. The differences can be striking.

All in all, Switzerland has so much to offer wine lovers, particularly those who seek out the unique and the lesser known. With its diversity in indigenous varieties, climate, soil types, altitudes, viticulture and winemaking, passionate Swiss producers are able to create distinctive wines with true character and class. Hopefully more of these gems will be found on dining tables around the world.

After all, some of the world’s most enjoyable creations are Swiss, including chocolate, cheese and watches. Why not wine?

Cornalin

Originating in the Valle d’Aosta in northwest Italy, the red grape Cornalin has found a natural home in the Valais and is considered by some to be the region’s greatest red variety – even though it only accounts for 3% of plantings due to its challenging nature in the vineyard. Also known as Rouge du Pays, it has the ability to produce refined or structured wines with dark, liquorice-tinged fruit. Excellent producers to look for include Denis Mercier, Maurice Zufferey and JR Germanier, who produces one of the region’s most complex and powerful examples.

Scroll down for Robin Kick MW’s top 10 Alpine wines

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Vaud wineries to visit near Lake Geneva

Most of Switzerland's small landmass may be covered by mountains, but it's still home to thousands of growers who have maintained a resolutely Swiss identity through the grape varieties that they cultivate, reports Jane Anson from a recent trip.

Schwierigkeita. The word means trouble, hassle, difficulty.

It pretty accurately sums up the challenges that most Swiss winemakers face in a country that is two-thirds Alps and yet still needs to use irrigation because even though the peaks are snow-capped year-round, the height of the mountains forms a protective barrier against rainfall.

Standing at the bottom of another hillside in the country’s largest wine region of the Valais hammers this home. Cut into neat terraces soaring away in front of you are a series of dry stone supporting walls. The first dates back to 1000AD, with the most recent from 1800.

‘It took a full 800 years to build these terraces slowly and painstakingly up that hill,’ say Dominique Rouvinez. ‘That’s how difficult it was to get everything in place.’

Directly in front of us is a hand-painted sign, aimed at wine tourists and put in place by the Rouvinez family at their Cellier de Cion tasting room (a joint venture between the Rouvinez-owned Bonvin and Varone Vins). It warns of steep drops, the need to wear strong walking boots and to be aware of the potential danger of falling over cliffs. This is quite clearly not your average winery visit.

But then nothing is average about Swiss wine. This is a place where 95% of wines are bottled as an AOC, making the focus on quality clear. And yet the Valais is made up of 22,000 smallholders working 80,000 plots of vines at an average of 1,100m in altitude on slopes that regularly reach gradients of 70% and where helicopters are routinely used to take the grapes off to the winery during harvest.

And all of those plots add up to just under 12,000 acres of vines – just a little less than the Saint Emilion appellation in Bordeaux that counts somewhere between 700 and 800 winemakers.

Most of the vines belong to locals who have inherited a few rows outside their kitchen windows, and who almost invariably earn their livelihoods from entirely different careers. The grapes from these so-called ‘Sunday winemakers’ are either sent to a local cooperative cellar or make their way to one of around 300 producers who are bottling wine across the Haut Valais (the absence of inheritance taxes helps keep this system possible).

Every year the famously careful Swiss functionaries painstakingly record who owns what, and who plants which grapes, recording up to 5,000 changes annually.

Even the grapes are unusual, with the plantings increasingly spread across indigenous varieties such as Petite Arvine (the local name for Arvine), Fendant (Chasselas), Heida, Cornalin, Humagne Rouge, along with Pinot Noir and Syrah.

All this makes a rather cheerful difference from the majority of the wine world. Just a few weeks ago Paul Hobbs suggested at the Masters of Wine conference in Spain that Argentina’s future lay with Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘the international benchmark for all the great reds of the world’.

If that’s the case, Swiss winemakers seem to say, the rest of the world can go whistle. There is a small but significant amount of Merlot here, but almost no Cabernet Sauvignon. This was a conscious choice. Local grapes were at 3% of the mix in 1990 and are at 40% today, following a push by the regional viticulture institute to rescue rare varieties and increase genetic diversity.

Even Alain Raynaud, the Bordelais consultant who I travelled to the Valais with, sees the value in Switzerland maintaining its point of difference through embracing its own varieties of grapes, although his suggestion is to meet the world half way through blends, as found in the Bonvin Cuvée 1858 bottling, and the excellent Stricto Senso from Varone Vins.

‘Even using the indigenous varieties,’ says Raynaud, ‘blending can bring out the best of the flavours, as can a small amount of barrel ageing, because traditionally the Swiss varieties are unoaked’.

This is not just a Bordeaux upstart coming in and waving oak barrels around. The Rouvinez family was the first to create a blended oaked wine in the 1980s with Le Tourmetin and its success not only revolutionised the area but gave the family the finances to now own over 100ha of vineyard (split across a number of small estates measuring from less than an acre to 15 hectares in size because, well, because this is Switzerland where precision is a given).

Perhaps this is the way to give Swiss wines a little higher visibility.

To date, beyond icons such as Marie-Thérèse Chappaz, Swiss wines are mainly famous for being impossible to find outside of the country’s borders, exporting something like 1% of production.

There is a desire to change that – it’s hard not to see the newly-introduced (since 2010) Grand Cru system, for example, as being aimed squarely at an international audience. And the quality of the wines that the Rouvinez family is making certainly deserves a wider audience.

But let’s hope they don’t go too far. The world needs more wine that is unashamedly and absolutely of itself.

Wine to Try

Varone Vins Stricto Sensu 2013

Just 3,000 bottles are made of this blend of Syrah, Cornalin and Humagne. Certainly suggests to me that indigenous Swiss grapes can work well in blends. It won a gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards and I can see why. Touches of liquorice and dried herbs, with black cherry and redcurrant fruits that are intense but delicate. Great freshness and the whole thing shows excellent grip and development in the glass. This has a long ageing of 24 months in barrel, and another 12 months in bottle. Waves of flavour just keep on coming, but nothing is shouting – a perfect example of a wine that asks you to sit still and listen. Great stuff. 94/100 points.

Charles Bonvin Cuvée 1858 Blanc AOC Valais 2013

Switzerland is best known for its white wine, and this is a great example of why (although it can be found in both red and white versions). This sees full oak barrel vinification and is a blend of Petit Arvine, Heida and Amigne. Beautiful citrus and apricot notes, great focus and sense of energy, and it exudes both structure and ageing potential. The Heida and Amigne give freshness to the rich saffron, quince and almost petrol-edged Petite Arvine. I would decant this for an hour or so, and get it in front of a plate of food. Alain Reynaud is consultant. 93/100.

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Everything to know about Lake Geneva wine

The Lake Geneva Region is distinguished by its devotion to Chasselas. The region’s prodigious diversity of soils and terroirs – the product of glaciers, rivers and mountains – gives variety and complexity to what can justifiably be called Switzerland’s signature grape.

Lake Geneva wine: The climate

The climate is greatly influenced by the lake, which creates ideal conditions for vine-growing and winemaking.

In Lavaux, the most celebrated sub-region between Lausanne and Vevey, they talk of the vineyards being bathed in three suns: firstly the direct sunlight, then the reflected rays from the lake and, finally, the heat absorbed by the extensive network of stone walls, which return their warmth to the vineyards during the night.

Lake Geneva wine: The grapes

White varieties

While Chasselas takes the lion’s share of wine production in volume terms, other white wine varieties are increasingly found.

These include Viognier, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, often designated spécialités to distinguish them from the pre-eminent grape.

Classic Chasselas is light (hovering around the 12% mark) with fugitive floral aromas and a slight prickle from the (naturally present) CO2 in the bottle, which gives it a lift and makes it an appealing aperitif wine.

This style of Chasselas – usually a domaine’s entry-level wine – is best drunk within a year of bottling, preferably on one of the many terraces overlooking the lake, possibly accompanying a plate of filets de perches, Switzerland’s favourite dish of fried lake-fish fillets.

More ‘serious’ and structured wines with the ability to age up to 20 years come from the greatest terroirs of the central Lavaux region.

• Vaud wineries to visit near Lake Geneva

• Lake Geneva restaurants: Dine like a local

• Lake Geneva hotels: Where to stay

Red varieties

Red wines are by no means forgotten, with Gamay and Pinot Noir leading the pack.

The over-productive, less interesting clones planted a generation ago are gradually being replaced by selections better suited to the terroir and climate, and winemakers are learning to work with – and, perhaps more importantly, without – oak.

The result has been a noteworthy increase in the quality of the region’s reds, which regularly win plaudits and prizes in prestigious local competitions, such as the annual Grand Prix du Vin Suisse, or international contests like the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Look out, too, for Gamaret and Garanoir, two siblings created by the Swiss Viticultural Research Station (now at Changins), each of them a Gamay Noir x Reichensteiner cross and approved for planting in the 1990s.

Gamaret is valued for its resistance to rot, good colour, supple tannins and relatively low alcohol, while Garanoir ripens earlier, is also resistant to rot with more fruity, spicy qualities and higher alcohol than its sibling.

Although sometimes vinified separately, they are most often blended, either together, or paired variously with Gamay, Pinot Noir, Merlot or Cabernet Franc (the latter two are also found as single varietals).

Visiting the region

This is a warmly hospitable region with a mix of old-established, but young-at-heart growers and a younger generation who travel and taste widely, and are not afraid to experiment with new varieties and new production methods.

Most wine-growers are multilingual, love to practise their English and relish the relative novelty of introducing their wines to visitors from abroad.

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Lake Geneva hotels: Where to stay

L’Auberge du Raisin, Cully

A 10-room hotel in the centre of the lovely village of Cully owned by the Gauer family of hoteliers, groaning with old-world charm.

There’s a traditional, wood-panelled restaurant and a cosy cellar serving raclette during autumn and winter.

The Auberge almost backs onto the quayside from where boats depart. www.aubergeduraisin.ch

Travel tip: Ask about the local transport card – it’s given out free by all hotels. For the Swiss Travel Pass, make sure you buy before your arrival, from outside the country.

Hôtel des Voyageurs, Lausanne

A small, atmospheric hotel in an artfully modernised Art Nouveau building, which won’t break the bank.

It’s in the heart of the old town, close to the metro and within walking distance of the city’s many excellent wine bars (try Yatus) and eating spots, such as the buzzy Brasserie Montbenon. www.voyageurs.ch

Villa Lavaux, Grandvaux

Classy, 4-star boutique B&B on the edge of the village set in the midst of the vineyards, hosted by a charming Belgian/American couple.

Cows graze in the field below the house and it will take your jaw a day to recover from the views from the terrace round to Lausanne and out across the shimmering lake to distant Mont Blanc. www.villalavaux.ch

Auberge de la Gare, Grandvaux

A small (five-room) jewel of a hotel (pictured top) perched on a little balcony above the lake, owned and run by Raymonde and Philippe Delessert.

The restaurant is known for miles around for its delicious, seasonally inspired, fairly priced food.

As the name suggests, it really is the village’s station hotel and the train stops right outside. www.aubergegrandvaux.ch

This first appeared as part of an article in the August 2017 issue of Decanter magazine, out now.

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The best part about visiting the Lake Geneva wine region is that distances are short – from Nyon to Aigle it’s barely 100 kilometres, or one hour speeding along the motorway or using the excellent train service…

How to get there and how to get around

By car, train or plane to Geneva.

The vineyards start just outside the city and end at Bex, about 1.5 hours along the lake.

Switzerland has one of the most efficient and best integrated public transport services in the world, so using the train, PostBuses and boats to get around within the region is a viable (and restful) option.

The Swiss Travel Pass (buy before arrival from outside the country) gives free, unlimited, travel on all public transport. Ask about the local transport card, too – it’s given out free by all hotels.

La Côte

Starting at the western end, La Côte, stretching from close to Geneva around to Morges, is the biggest and most bucolic part. Vineyard holdings are larger here and vines rub shoulders with apple and pear trees.

 Les Frères Dutruy

First up in Founex is Les Frères Dutruy, which offers visits on weekdays to the original property in the village and on Saturdays to the modern winery close by. Julien Dutruy is an irrepressible guide to the domaine’s wines and a good example of Switzerland’s younger generation of well-travelled winemakers, with two-year stints in Bordeaux and Burgundy under his belt.

Unusually for La Côte – a region majoring in Chasselas – the Dutruys’ main plantings are of Gamay, Pinot Noir and Gamaret.

Domaine de la Maison Blanche

Further round the lake at Mont-sur-Rolle, jovial winemaker Yves de Mestral’s Domaine de la Maison Blanche sits on a gentle elevation overlooking the lake, surrounded by vines. If the weather is fine, tastings take place in the garden; it’s just the place to start testing Chasselas’ oft-quoted ability to faithfully reflect the terroir in which it is grown, as seen through the lens of de Mestral’s different cuvées of the same grape from various plots (plus a sparkling wine).

Lavaux

The central part, the Lavaux region, extends from Lausanne round to Vevey. This is home to some of Switzerland’s most venerated vineyards, originally terraced and planted in the Middle Ages by Cistercian monks and to this day responsible for some of the most elegant and ageworthy Chasselas.

Domaine Chappuis

There’s a huge concentration of talented wine-growers here (helpfully indicated by small brown signposts), among them Domaine Chappuis in Rivaz, a family-run estate established in 1335 – Christophe Chappuis belongs to the 22nd generation to make wine here.

You can sign up for the ‘Lavaux Experience’, which involves a morning in the vineyard where he explains the tasks of the season followed by a tasting, lunch and three bottles to take home; or simply settle down in the cosy tasting room and work your way through his range of superb Chasselas and stunning red blends.

If you run out of time, or just fail to secure an appointment with one or other wine-growers, Vinorama, a wine bar-cum-shop in Rivaz will come to the rescue (see ‘Dine like a local’). The brainchild of Christophe Chappuis’s father Vincent, it gathers wines from around 150 vignerons in Lavaux all under one roof. The visit starts with a short video, which explains the winemaker’s year, then you can taste from the weekly-changing offer of open wines and/or buy a bottle to go.

Blaise Duboux

Up the hill in the village of Epesses, biodynamic grower Blaise Duboux is another master of Chasselas and a firm believer in its ability to age (‘when you age Chasselas from a prime site, it gets dressed up and becomes a jacket-and-tie wine!’). He’s also an ardent defender of Plant Robez (aka Plant Robert), a Gamay clone thought to have arrived long ago from Burgundy, which took root here, then all but disappeared in the 1960s and was resuscitated in 2002 by Duboux and a band of believers.

Chablais

The final piece in the lakeside vineyard puzzle is the Chablais region, spread out along the right bank of the Rhône between the Château de Chillon and Bex, on the threshold of neighbouring Valais.

Badoux

Badoux, established in Aigle by Henri Badoux in 1908 and now part of the Schenk group, is famous for its best-selling Chasselas, Aigle Les Murailles, whose iconic label, painted by Frédéric Rouge in 1918 and unchanged ever since, shows the green lizard that basks in the estate’s steep shale/gravel terraces above the town. It’s their bread-and-butter wine, whose huge sales allow oenologist Daniel Dufaux to have fun with small cuvées of other whites (Viognier, Pinot Gris), reds (Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc) and even an orange wine from Chasselas named Hommage; many of these can be tasted in the newly created wine bar and shop adjoining the winery.

This article first appeared in the August 2017 issue of Decanter magazine, out now.

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Jérôme Aké-Béda, Sommelier and maître d’hôtel, Auberge de l’Onde, Saint-Saphorin, recommends:

Restaurant Là-Haut, Chardonne

‘A new restaurant, opened six months ago by young Mathieu Bruno, who was a chef de partie with us for a while and has now struck out on his own with his Québécoise wife, Milène. He cooks creative, seasonal cuisine and his wine list includes many of my favourites with a handful by the glass (such as Pierre Fonjallaz’s Dézaley Réserve) – plus there’s a gorgeous view from up there (hence ‘là-haut’), high above the vineyards.’ http://restaurant-la-haut.ch

Lavaux Vinorama, Rivaz

‘This wine bar and shop offers more than 290 labels (red and white) from around 150 different vignerons. Every week there are eight different Chasselas from various growers and terroirs to taste, and every two weeks a fresh selection of eight red wines and four ‘specialities’, such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Viognier or Chardonnay.’ www.lavaux-vinorama.ch

Blaise Duboux, Organic-biodynamic wine grower in Epesses, Lavaux, recommends:

Les 11 Terres, Epesses

‘A wine bar and shop right here on our main street belonging to 11 wine growers in the village (myself included) and designed as a showcase for our wines. It’s open from 3pm until 7.30pm (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays during the winter and spring), and a bit longer at the weekend. You can drop in, have a (Riedel) glass of wine and a planchette (board) of organic cheeses, cured cold meats or smoked duck breast from a local farmer. Check the website to see which of the 60-odd wines in stock are offered by the glass that week.’ www.11terres.ch

Auberge du Vigneron, Epesses

‘I also have a soft spot for our village auberge, just along the street from 11 Terres. It’s run by a young couple, Laurent and Estelle Frutig, who serve food that is simple and good, with bistro-type dishes chalked up on a blackboard (typical Vaudois smoked sausage with lentils, lake fish with frites, beef tartare, crème brûlée with pistachios…), accompanied by a good selection of local wines by the glass.’ www.aubergeduvigneron.ch

Joelle Nebbe-Mornod, Swiss-born owner of Alpine Wines, a major importer of Swiss wines to the UK, recommends:

Restaurant La Pêcherie, La Plage, Allaman

‘Whenever I’m in the Lake Geneva Region I have to have my fix of delicious filets de perches [perch fillets from the lake, served with frites and tartar sauce]! Every Vaudois has strong opinions on who does the best, but this unpretentious little lakeside place in Allaman is one of my favourites. There is other fish on the menu, too – such as char, whitefish and pike – and the restaurant is right on the water, so the view is fabulous and the fish couldn’t be fresher. There’s a short wine list, mainly from La Côte.’ www.la-pecherie-allaman.ch (pictured top)

Hôtel de la Gare, Lucens

‘This is a hotel-restaurant I love to visit when on a wine-buying trip in Canton of Vaud. Owned and run by Pierrick and Jane-Lise Suter, it offers good food and an outstanding Swiss wine list, which (unusually for Switzerland, where people are very faithful to their local wines) covers the whole country. (The 2017 Gault Millau Switzerland guide ranks it among the 10 best lists in the country.) It’s a bit off the beaten track, but has simple rooms so you can drink and not drive – or, as it’s by the station, if you time it right, you can return to Lausanne by train.’ www.hoteldelagarelucens.ch

Brice Gaue, Manager, Auberge du Raisin in Cully and member of the Gauer hotel dynasty, recommends:

Le 3C at Hotel Les Trois Couronnes, Vevey

‘The Hotel des Trois Couronnes in Vevey has a Michelin-starred restaurant, which I like, too, but for a glass of Calamin [Chasselas from the smallest Lavaux appellation] and some mezze or a plate of pasta or vegetable tajine, combined with uninterrupted lakeside views from the huge terrace, Le 3C Brasserie is very hard to beat.’ www.hoteltroiscouronnes.ch

Caveau Corto, Grandvaux

‘One of my favourite places for meeting up with friends over a glass of Calamin [the most local Chasselas appellation] is Caveau Corto in Grandvaux, named in honour of the legendary character Corto Maltese, whose story was illustrated by Hugo Pratt, a resident for many years in the village. Open at weekends from April to November, it has spectacular terraces with views down onto the vineyards and across the lake. It’s jointly owned by 12 Grandvaux winegrowers, who each take a turn to staff the place and feature their wines for that weekend, along with simple plates of food.’ www.caveaucorto.ch

Raymond Paccot, Oenologist at Domaine La Colombe in Féchy, La Côte, recommends:

Restaurant Le Cerf and Brasserie La Fleur de Sel, Cossonay

‘We’re great gourmets (and gourmands!) in our household and it’s tough to limit myself to choosing just two places, but this is one of my favourites. Chef Carlo Crisci does terrifically inventive food – I bet he’d go down a storm in London if he ever decided to set up there! For a simpler, more accessible menu that gives you a sense of the chef’s creativity, there’s also the brasserie [with a Michelin red bib]. The wine list is faithful to the local crus (including some of ours!) – it’s a great way to discover new wines when visiting an area.’ www.lecerf-carlocrisci.ch

Nomade, Lausanne

‘A restaurant, wine bar and shop in the lively Flon area of Lausanne’s old town, where you can have a full meal, or just the plat du jour or a plate of tapas – always packed, great atmosphere and some interesting wines by the glass are on offer.’ http://restaurantnomade.ch

This article first appeared in a sponsored guide in the August 2017 issue of Decanter magazine, out now.

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A new device that claims to soften tannins in young wine by exposing the juice to ultraviolet light could also help increase the number of wines available for vegans, according to winemakers taking part in early trials.

A Swiss company claims to be offering winemakers a new weapon against harsh tannins and underripe wines.

Some winemakers also believe that the firm’s namesake gadget, Vino Flux, could make it easier to produce vegan wines.

Vino Flux is trialling its namesake device with 150 Australian wineries, and it claims that its UV light rays will soften tannins and speed up the maturation process.

Exposing wine to ultraviolet light can be detrimental to colour, tannin and ageing potential.

But Vino Flux distributor Aldo Bratovic said the Swiss firm had found a way to target red wine tannins by using specific wavelengths in the UV range, without affecting the fruit profile.

Julian Langworthy, winemaker at Deeps Woods Estate in Margaret River and who trialled the new device with Bratovic on Cabernet wines, said that he noticed a clear difference in the treated wines.

‘This technology is exciting for the industry, especially if you need help with wines that have experienced a bad vintage or are from a challenging site,’ Langworthy said.

Flametree Wines winemaker Julian Scott also attended a Margaret River demonstration.

‘We trialled the 2016 reds and found the treatment had little impact on the wine aroma and colour. The treated wine had softened tannins and was less dry – and there was a sweet spot in the treatment process,’ he said.

Not a magic bullet

Winemakers were cautious to endorse Vino Flux as a catch-all, quick fix.

‘The tannins had been polymerised, possibly through the action of UV light energy,’ said Scott.

‘The tannin condensing process is an alternative to fining which inadvertently strips flavour. It’s potentially another tool to assist in making great wines, but it will not replace high fruit quality or good winemaking practices.’

Vegan wines

Juniper Estate winemaker Mark Messenger said, ‘There are other ways to produce similar results with wines to get softer tannins, but if you are a vegan this technology eliminates the need for animal-based protein fining agents so it’s an attractive option for that market.’

Bratovic said that larger wine companies might benefit most.

‘Softening the tannin profile of a young red wine enables it to be released sooner, which is good for cashflow and makes the wine more attractive to consumers.’

He added, ‘Vino Flux works well on ‘problem child’ wines; a wine that has not responded to conventional protein fining and no amount of trial work makes a difference.’

The product remains subject to approval for commercial use in Australia.

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An auction of nearly 1,500 wines from Burgundy's exclusive Domaine de la Romanée-Conti estate has been overshadowed by concerns raised over the authenticity of a small number of wines sourced for the sale.

Baghera Wines removed ‘five or six lots’ before its Geneva auction over the weekend, according to a report by The Independent newspaper, which quoted Baghera director Michael Ganne directly.

Concerns were raised on the WineBerserkers.com forum by Don Cornwell, a US-based lawyer who has repeatedly voiced fears over counterfeit wines at auctions and who has gained a reputation as something of a fake wine investigator.

Baghera did not immediately respond to Cornwell’s concerns when contacted by Decanter.com. A spokesperson for the auction house said an official statement would likely be released on Tuesday (24 May).

Baghera was reported to be investigating the authenticity of several wines initially sourced for the auction. Ganne told the Independent that a sale would not stand for any wine lot found to be doubtful.

The auction itself fetched around 4.2m Swiss francs (US$4m) over the weekend, with more than 250 lots of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) joining top Bordeaux and Champagne.

‘The first part of the Master Cellar sale will be dedicated to one of the finest collections of ever brought together, giving this event an extraordinary and historic character,’ said Baghera in its pre-auction catalogue.

‘The 266 lots of DRC represent a total of 1,407 bottles, magnums and jeroboams of

grands crus, produced by the Domaine between 1952 and 2011.’

Caroline Frey, of the Frey family that owns Château La Lagune in Bordeaux and Paul Jaboulet Aîné in Rhône, has bought a 'secret garden' vineyard in Switzerland.

Caroline Frey, an oenologist who runs La Lagune and who’s family also own Château Corton C – formerly Corton André – has bought a small parcel of land in Switzerland’s Valais region.

Describing it as her ‘secret garden’, she told Decanter.com that she wants to make late harvest Petite Arvine on the 2,000 square metre patch of land.

‘I have been thinking about this since 2002, when I graduated from the Bordeaux University of Oenology, and I would like to offer [professor] Denis Dubourdieu a case of the best Petite Arvine. I have always liked this grape,’ she said.

‘I like the Valais landscape and on the strength of doing my running in this area, I found a tiny parcel that suits me perfectly,’ she said.

• SEE: Decanter wine travel guide to Valais

The parcel is situated in the town of Fully, in the west of the region, the only place with granite soil in the Valais, near the parcels of Thérèse Chappaz, Benoit Dorsaz and Jean-Michel Dorsaz. ‘Ever since I started making wine in Hermitage, I have liked granite soil, and I want to produce a late harvest of Petite Arvine on this parcel,’ Frey said.

The vineyard was a mix of Pinot Noir and Chasselas when acquired by Frey, who is now moving over to Petite Arvine grapes and intends to follow biodynamic principles.

The first wines are expected to be ready in 2018.

• See Decanter’s score and tasting note for La Lagune 2015

Swiss Police report that Benoit Violier, recently ranked as the world's best chef, has been found dead in his home in an apparent suicide case.

Forty-four-year-old Benoit Violier, of the three Michelin stars Restaurant l’Hotel de Ville in Crissier, near to Lausanne, was found dead at his home on Sunday 31 January.

Violier was named the world’s best chef by France-based ‘La Liste’ in 2015 – a global guide to restaurants published by the French foreign ministry.

The news sent shockwaves through the culinary world, with many chefs swiftly paying tribute to Violier on social media. News of Violier’s death also came 24 hours before the latest Michelin Guide was due to be announced in Paris.

Swiss police in the Vaud province said in a brief statement that Violier was already dead when they arrived at his home late afternoon on Sunday.

Police added that it appeared as if Violier shot himself.

However, the official cause of death will have to be confirmed by an inquiry. Police asked that the privacy of Violier’s family be respected.

Violier succeeded Philippe Rochat at l’Hotel de Ville in Crissier in 2012. He had trained in Paris with some of the most renowned chefs, including Joel Robuchon and Benoit Guichard.

Rochat was believed to be something of a mentor to Violier, promoting him at l’Hotel de Ville after arriving at the restaurant in the late 1990s. Rochat himself died last year after a cycling accident in Switzerland.

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Swiss winemaker Dominique Giroud has been cleared of illegally topping up tens of thousands of bottles of AOC St Saphorin with unapproved wine.

Swiss officials in the canton of Vaud said they found no evidence that Giroud had bulked up St Saphorin appellation wines with unapproved Fendant wine.

The ruling ends five years of suspicion surrounding 100,000 bottles of Giroud’s wine. In 2009, an unnamed winemaker from Vaud filed a criminal complaint of wine fraud against Giroud, who is based in the canton of Valais. The complaint was dropped two years later, but authorities continued to investigate.

‘The contents of the bottles met the relevant legislation,’ officials said, according to a statement released by Giroud’s spokesperson, Marc Comina.

‘The case is now closed. Dominique Giroud is innocent,’ said Giroud’s lawyer, Yannis Sakkas.

It marks particularly welcome news for Giroud after he was convicted of tax fraud, also in the canton of Vaud, in July this year.

Giroud has had a turbulent relationship with Swiss media, which dubbed the allegations against him as the ‘Giroud affair’.

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Written by Chris Mercer

A rare wine grape dubbed 'Casanova' because of its role in parenting so many of the world's leading varieties is one step further from extinction thanks to Swiss volunteers and a leading scientist.

Image credit: Wikipedia / Dr Joachim Schmid / Martin Bahmann

Once shunned, Gouais Blanc (pictured) earned new respect 15 years ago when a study showed it was the mother grape of many varieties, including Chardonnay and Gamay.

But, only a handful of vineyards worldwide include Gouais Blanc grapes. One of those, at 800m in Switzerland’s Haut-Valais area, was recently saved from being grubbed up by a community project part-led by Dr Jose Vouillamoz, the renowned grape geneticist and co-author of Wine Grapes.

‘My friend, the winemaker Josef-Marie Chanton heard [about the vineyard’s imminent demise] in 2010 and he immediately contacted me,’ Vouillamoz said during a seminar on forgotten grapes at the 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland.

‘Together we decided to create an association to rescue and purchase this historical vineyard. It took us a few weeks to gather 33 people willing to pay their share to purchase the vineyard,’ says Vouillamoz. ‘But it took us two to three years to raise the public funds for the renovation.’

The 0.2ha vineyard, resting on a 60% to 70% incline, has a dozen rare varieties and was Christened VinEsch, in honour of a nearby hamlet. Since 2011, bands of volunteers from across Switzerland have spent weekends rebuilding the dry stone walls that support the vineyard’s 27 terraces.

‘Haut-Valais is the only place on Earth where Gouais Blanc has been continuously cultivated since the Middle Ages,’ Vouillamoz said.

‘In France it has been banned many times in all regions and there only remains one vineyard in Marin in the Haute-Savoie.’

Gouais Blanc, which has also been known as a ‘peasant grape’ in France, can produce wine with a crisp acidity, but it is high yielding and particularly susceptible to botrytis.

(Editing by Chris Mercer)

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Written by Susanna Forbes

Swiss winemaker Dominique Giroud has been convicted of tax fraud, but his spokesperson said the verdict 'does not come as a surprise'.

Giroud was found guilty by a court in the Swiss canton of Vaud late last week. He was accused of providing false figures on his company, Giroud Vins, to tax authorities between 2005 and 2009.

The court fined him CHF300 per day for 180 days, which totals CHF54,000 (£35,000, $60,000), but suspended the fine for two years.

Giroud’s spokesperson, Marc Comina, said, ‘Dominique Giroud accepts the decision and will not appeal’.

He said the winemaker has already paid ‘significant sums’ to cover the outstanding money owed to tax authorities.

In his only interview given on the tax issue, to L’Agefi last month, Giroud expressed his ‘sincere regret’, Comina said.

He added that Giroud believes media coverage of his affairs has been excessive and that the winemaker plans to seek damages. He did not name specific publications.

Separately, Giroud remains under investigation by police in Geneva for alleged spying, alongside a computer hacker, a private detective and a fourth person who was working for Switzerland‘s secret service.

Swiss media outlets have been following the story closely for several months, in a saga they have nicknamed the ‘Giroud Affair’.

Written by Chris Mercer

Decanter talks to sommelier Stefano Petta about Swiss wines and lessons he's learned over his career. As published in Decanter's January 2013 issue.

Stefano Petta is sommelier at Hotel Schweizerhof Bern, Bahnhofplatz 11 3001 Bern, Switzerland Tel: +41 (0)31 326 80 80; schweizerhof-bern.ch

What’s your earliest wine memory?

A Valpolicella Classico, out of my grandfather’s glass, at the age of six.

What was the wine that got you serious about wine?

Bibi Graetz’s Testamatta from Tuscany. It’s a very powerful Sangiovese with incredible density. It was the first time I tasted perfection – I can still remember it. The label is also unique – Bibi is the artist.

Since then, what’s the best wine you’ve ever drunk?

Domaine Olivier Bernstein’s Les Champeaux 1er cru from Gevrey-Chambertin.

What’s the funniest thing that’s happened on the job?

A very confident customer wanted to impress. He ordered Roero Arneis from Piedmont. I brought the bottle and he started laughing at me: ‘…and why are you serving the red wine in an ice bucket?’ He was very embarrassed to discover it was a white wine that he had ordered.

… and your biggest faux pas?

While decanting a Château Montrose 2001 over a candle, the label caught fire.

Have you ever served anyone famous?

The F1 World Champion Michael Schumacher. I served him 1993 Roederer Cristal Champagne as an aperitif.

What’s the hardest food and wine match?

Blue lobster ravioli. I chose white Châteauneuf-du-Pape: very elegant, to marry the power of the lobster.

What’s the most annoying customer habit?

People who won’t try new things.

What do you buy for yourself?

Swiss wines. A favourite producer is Gantenbein in Fläsch. I was one of the lucky few to get some of Thomas Studach’s Completer – from some of the oldest vines in Europe. Also Clerc Bamert’s Sonnenrain Scheurebe.

What’s the most valuable wine lesson you’ve learned?

Having wine without food just for the love of it. It widens your horizons and keeps your palate fit.

Written by Decanter

Swiss wine producer Dominique Giroud is due to appear in court on spying charges in the next few days, alongside a computer hacker, a private detective and a fourth person belonging to Switzerland's secret service.

Giroud sponsored several sports clubs, including Geneve-Servette Hockey Club. Image credit: Giroud Vins

Giroud and three others were arrested in the Swiss Canton of Geneva last week on suspicion of spying on journalists by hacking into their computers.

Authorities did not name the other individuals, apart from identifying one as a computer hacker and another as a private detective. In an increasingly bizarre tale, officials also said Giroud hired a member of Switzerland’s intelligence service – who is believed to be the fourth person in custody.

All four face a charge of hacking and an initial court hearing to outline the full charge against them will held in the next few days, a spokesperson for the Geneva prosecutor’s office told Decanter.com. He would not give a precise date for the hearing.

He added that all four are being held in isolation due to fears of collusion. ‘We don’t want them to have any contact with each other,’ he said.

Separately, Giroud is also facing fraud charges in the neighbouring Swiss Canton of Vaud, the spokesperson confirmed. He is accused of marketing falsely labelled wine.

The accounts of Giroud’s wine business, Giroud Vins SA, have been under investigation in Switzerland since 2011.

Earlier this year, Giroud tried to get a court order in his native Canton of Valais to block Swiss media outlet RTS from screening two documentaries that included information on his tax affairs, according to the Valais prosecutor’s office.

Swiss media has reported that Giroud hired a private detective due to concerns that information about his wine firm was being leaked to the press.

However, today (18 June), Swiss newspaper Le Temps reported that the private detective had double-crossed Giroud by also handing over information to journalists.

Swiss weekly paper Le Matin Dimanche quoted one wine industry source who called Giroud ‘Scarface’ – a reference to the 1980s film focused on a mafia boss played by Al Pacino.

Written by Chris Mercer

Find out about our Decanter World Wine Awards 2014 Piedmont & Switzerland judging panel with biographies of the Regional Chair Paolo Basso plus Arvid Rosengren, Bruno Besa, Claire Thevenot MS, Daniele Cernilli, David Round MW, Emilio Del Fante, Emily O’Hare, Ezio De Bernardi, Igor Sotric, Laurent Richet MS, Luigi Buonanno and Matt Walls.

Regional chair: Paolo Basso

In 2013, Swiss-Italian Paolo Basso was named Best Sommelier of the World, one of just five sommeliers who hold both European and World titles. He started his wine career as a sommelier in Switzerland and gained professional experience with a leading Swiss-based wine trader, where he focused on Burgundy and Bordeaux. Basso runs his own wine consultancy, Paolo Basso Wine, and is a familiar name on the sommelier competition circuit. He has won many awards, including Best Sommelier of Switzerland 1997 and Best Sommelier of Europe 2010.

Judges

Arvid Rosengren

Arvid Rosengren is the wine director of restaurant group Copenhangen Concepts, which owns and runs eight restaurants along three concept lines: MASH (steakhouse), Umami (Japanese/French fusion) and Le Sommelier (French brasserie). Joining the company in June 2011, Rosengren was previously the head sommelier at two of the group’s restaurants in Copenhagen, and prior to that worked in Stockholm at Restaurant Le Rouge, and spent a few months in the UK at the Hotel du Vin in Birmingham in 2008. Winning many awards on the sommelier competition circuit, Rosengren was named Best Sommelier of Sweden 2010 and last year became the Best Sommelier of Europe 2013, going on to compete in the Best Sommelier of the World semi-finals in Tokyo. Rosengren also teaches at sommelier schools in Scandinavia and writes for publications, including Livets Goda, and publishes his own blog at arvidrosengren.com.

Bruno Besa

Originally from Friuli, Bruno Besa has been living in London since 1986. After almost 20 years working in hotels and restaurants, he founded Astrum Wine Cellars in 2001, along with long term friends and former colleagues Max Folli and Stefano Benato from Stafano Cavallini Restaurant at the Halkin hotel in Belgravia. Bruno is currently managing director of the company, representing around 50 wineries and distilleries from Italy and Central Europe.

Claire Thevenot MS

Claire Thevenot MS is a French-born adopted Londoner. She studied catering and hospitality management and then took a sommelier degree from Tain l’Hermitage (France). After graduating Thevenot worked at a number of three star Michelin restaurants in France, Germany and Switzerland, including Bernard Loiseau and Restaurant Im Schiffchen Jean Claude Bourgueil. In 2002, Thevenot moved to London with work for the Hotel du Vin Group, quickly being promoted to Head Sommelier at the Hotel du Vin Winchester. In 2006 Thevenot become a Master Sommelier, the same year she was named UK Sommelier of the Year. Thevenot currently works for Enotria where she looks after prestige accounts and assists the buying team find new French growers. Her passion is for German Riesling, particularly, although she is also true to her French roots and the wines of Burgundy and the Rhône.

Daniele Cernilli

Daniele Cernilli was born in Rome and graduated with a masters in philosophy. In 1979 he began his career in the wine trade at Vini & Liquori, a monthly magazine, before going on to co-found what would become the annual Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia in 1987. Cernilli has held various editorial positions, including editor-at-large of Gambero Rosso magazine and Wine Travel Food, and in 1988 he was named editor-in-chief of Vini d’Italia (also published in English as Italian Wines), where he directed the tastings of wines entered from all over Italy – from a few hundred in the first edition to over 18,000 in the 2010 edition. In 1999, Cernilli started writing for Rai Sat/Gambero Rosso Channel and, in 2009, he was made editor-in-chief of the programme. Cernilli has consulted for the Associazione Italiana Sommelier and the Worldwide Sommelier Association, and is currently working on his own Italian and English web magazine, DoctorWine.it. In 2013 he began cooperating with ONAV (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori di Vino), Spirito di Vino, Sette (weekly of the Italian leading newspaper Corriere della Sera) and Pagina99 (weekly magazine for art & culture).

David Round MW

David Round MW joined the wine trade in 1991, working on the shop floor in Fortnum & Mason’s Wine Department. In 1994 he moved to Berry Bros & Rudd to help set up their Duty Free Wine Shop at Heathrow’s Terminal 3, and soon transferred to the Buying Department. Round passed his MW in 1999 and became fine wine manager at Direct Wines the following year. In 2003 Round moved to Bancroft Wines (formerly H&H Bancroft) where he was joint buying and marketing director. In 2009 Round joined Jascots Wine Merchants as director of purchasing, PR and marketing, leaving in late 2013 to help run a family business and set up his own wine consultancy.

Emilio Del Fante

Emilio Del Fante is a career maître d’hôtel. He entered the hospitality industry in 1970 upon graduating with a diploma federale di maître d`hôtel from Switzerland and has worked in a number of positions related to the profession ever since. Between 1974 and 1986, Del Fante worked seasonally between the 5 star Palace Luzern and the Hotel Seehof Davos, first as chef de rang and then as maitre d’hotel, with occasional work/study breaks in the UK and a year long stint aboard the Royal Viking Star. For the next six years, Del Fante was maitre d’hotel and head sommelier at the one Michelin star Santabbondio Restorante (Martin Dalsass). Del Fante has been the maitre d’hotel and head sommelier for the Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola in Lugano since 1995, was named Best Sommelier of Switzerland 2001 and he received his professional sommelier diploma from the Italian Association of Sommeliers in 2003.

Emily O’Hare

Emily O’Hare is the head sommelier, wine buyer and WSET tutor at London’s River Café, where she has worked for almost seven years. She also writes about Italian wine for various publications and sits on the judging panels for Decanter. In May 2012 O’Hare won the Harpers Wines & Spirits Sommelier of the Year Award, and in her spare time she runs a women’s tasting group Women, Know Your Wine! and also The London Wine Sessions, a bi-annual wine festival which includes talks and tastings, music and food.

Ezio De Bernardi

Ezio De Bernardi is the sales manager at Valsangiacomo Vini in Mendrisio in his native Switzerland, where he has worked since 2003. De Bernardi was introduced to the world of wine in 1994 when he went to Beaune to take a CIVB course in viticulture, oenology and wine tasting. In 1996, De Bernardi moved to Milan to take the AIS Diploma and that same year was named Best Sommelier of Switzerland. After completing his diploma, De Bernardi worked as a sommelier and maître d’hotel for a number of restaurants in France, the UK and Germany. While in the UK, De Bernardi was admitted to the Institute of Masters of Wine. De Bernardi is a regular taster at Brussels’ International Taste & Quality Institute (ITQI) and has judged at Starwine in Philadelphia. Since 1999 he has been a member of the board of the Swiss Sommelier Association (ASSP) responsible for sommelier competitions. His most recent achievement was in 2010 when he placed 3rd at the ‘Concours Europe Degustation Vins par equipe’ organised by La Revue du Vin de France.

Igor Sotric

After graduating with a degree in microbiology, Igor Sotric moved to the UK and entered the wine industry 18 years ago. Qualified to WSET diploma level, he is head sommelier and wine buyer at China Tang at the Dorchester, and has prior experience with Asian restaurants, including Cocoon and the St Martins Lane Hotel. Sotric also acts as consultant to several restaurants, and since 2009 he has been making his own Chardonnay in Goriska Brda, Slovenia, with his friend Marijan Simcic.

Laurent Richet MS

Laurent Richet MS was born in the Loire Valley and attended Saumur’s catering college, where he graduated as a sommelier. He headed south shortly after to work for some of the finest establishments on the Côte d’Azur including La Reserve de Beaulieu, in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and Hotel de Paris in Monaco. Richet then moved to the UK to continue his profession at the Celtic Manor Resort in South Wales, before heading to Florida to work with Virginia Philip MS, and take the Court of Master Sommelies introductory course. Returning to the UK, Richel joined Hotel TerraVina in the New Forest. Richet currently works for Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham, and in 2010 he won the Gastronomy Team of the Year competition, in addition to passing his Master Sommelier examinations and gaining the Crew Cup.

Luigi Buonanno

Luigi Buonanno has worked in the catering industry since the age of 15. While living in Rome, Buonanno had the opportunity to work in fine dining restaurants, where he discovered the role of sommelier, at which point he left University to take a sommelier diploma. Following this, he did a masters in sensorial analysis, considered to be the highest related degree achievable in Italy. In 2007 Buonanno moved to London, where he worked for Prism restaurant before moving to Caravaggio, re-writing Caravaggio’s wine list, and subsequently the lists for the eight other restaurants in the Etrusca Group. Buonanno was then promoted to group sommelier and wine buyer, and since 2011 he has been collaborating with Daniele Cernilli on doctorwine.it, where he writes reviews about mainly non-Italian wines available in the UK.

Matt Walls

Matt Walls is a freelance wine writer and consultant. He contributes regular articles to Decanter, timatkin.com, Harpers Wine & Spirit and Imbibe. He won Best Newcomer at the 2013 Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards for Drink Me, his first book on wine. He publishes a popular wine blog, www.mattwalls.co.uk, for which he was shortlisted for International Wine & Spirit Competition Blogger of the Year in both 2012 and 2013. When not writing, Walls advises restaurants on wine lists, hosts tastings, judges wine competitions and edits The London Wine Guide iPhone app. Previously he was Fine Wines Manager at Mentzendorff and he set up, managed and bought wines for the flagship store of The Sampler.

Written by John Abbott

Hear from our Switzerland Regional Chair Paolo Basso on which wines to buy, which wines to leave on the shelf and what to keep an eye on from this year's Decanter World Wine Awards....

Swiss wines are only now appearing on the international market, but as some of the Europe’s most ancient vineyards they are full of history and tradition. Set in Central Europe, in the middle of the Alps, Swiss vineyards benefit from special climatic conditions produced by lakes, rivers, rocky mountains and valleys with favourable winds, that result in quality vines. Pinot Noir and Chasselas are the most cultivated varieties, but there are several native vines such as Petite Arvine and Cornalin that are just waiting to be discovered and more widely appreciated.

What should we buy from here?

Chasselas wines from the Lake Geneva area are not to be missed and are wonderful paired with sushi or cheese. Also to be discovered are the alpine reds of Valais in the upper Rhône valley such as Cornalin and Humagne – though this year it was a Cabernet Franc from this region that took our red Trophy. The indigenous whites of Païen and Amigne are also worth seeking out, and respectively responsible f or our still white and sweet white Trophies. Unique delights!

What should we leave on the shelf?

Too many uninteresting dry Sylvaners are still being produced when sweet ones could give far greater results. The production of sparkling wines is still in its early

What should we keep an eye on?

Definitely discover the reds from Ticino, Switzerland’s Italianspeaking southern region. Generally based on Merlot, the wines are international in style – with, consequently, a probable global interest – but the production is rather small (from 1,000ha of vines country wide) and the resulting wines, while good, have not yet been marketed well. Nevertheless, it is worth seeking these out, as well as tasting red blends containing a minority of Merlot where the latter fleshes out other grapes with greater complexity and backbone. These wines are rich and structured with a great elegance, and have the advantage that they can be enjoyed immediately and can age well over five to 10 years.

Written by Decanter

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Swiss Sweet Over £15 went to Jean-René Germanier, Mitis Amigne de Vétroz Réserve, Valais 2011 (14.5%)

Tasted against:

• No other Golds in this category

Profile:

Amigne is a grape indigenous to Switzerland and Gilles Besse, fourth-generation winemaker of Jean-René Germanier, says that all 40 hectares of the variety planted in the world are in the Valais, with 30ha of that in his local village of Vétroz. The slate soils here have a neutral character, and the vines lay on south-facing, terraced slopes of between 500m and 700m altitude.

Jean-René Germanier was founded at the end of the 19th century by Besse’s great-grandfather Urban Germanier. In the 1940s, Urban’s three sons continued the family tradition as well as introducing an eau de vie from the Williams pear which swiftly became the main focus of the business. That was until Besse’s uncle, Jean-René Germanier took over in the 1980s with a mission to produce quality wines.

Besse, who previously dreamed of being a musician and had played in several bands as a saxophonist, joined him in 1989, bringing a passion for technology and a desire to experiment with oak-aged wines.

This Trophy-winner was initially only produced as a still wine, with the first vintage in 1991. Since 1997 it has also been made in this late-harvest style. The noble, rot-infected grapes are picked in December with a residual sugar level of 125g/l. The wine then spends two years on its lees in new barrels. In 2011, just 8,000 bottles were produced.

Written by Decanter

This year's Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Swiss Red Over £15 Gregor Kuonen, Grandmaître Cabernet Franc, Valais 2012 (13.6%)

Tasted against:

• No other Golds in this category

Profile:

This is a producer whose wines are in high demand – more than 90% are sold directly to private clients in Switzerland, and every year is a sell-out of all 700,000 bottles. ‘We want to show the world that Swiss wines can be high quality,’ says Giuseppe Santoro, part of the team at Gregor Kuonen. ‘But the reason Switzerland doesn’t export its finest wines is that there isn’t enough production – the Swiss drink it all!’

Under Gregor Kuonen, who started the winery in 1979, only six wines were made, but his sons François and Charles have increased this to more than 60.

Larissa joined the team in 2009 after studying oenology in Changins. She did several internships in cellars around Europe, though she credits her father as being a major influence in her winemaking style – ‘It’s a kind of art; a passion,’ she says.

In the microclimate of the Valais, the summers are dry and hot with temperatures nudging 35°C; the winters are cold and marked by heavy snowfall. Kuonen’s winery is in a valley, protected by 4,000m-high mountains, and the vines are terraced on the mountain slopes.

This Trophy-winner is 100% Cabernet Franc, and 15,000 bottles were made.

Written by Decanter

From impossibly picturesque and steep vineyards, the wines from this Alpine canton are booming in quality, discovers Sue Style. And are perfect to enjoy with raclette, see our Valais travel guide here - first published in the Decanter January 2014 issue.

Valais Fact File:

Planted area 4,976 hectares

Grape varieties Pinot Noir, Chasselas, Gamay, (Petite) Arvine, Cornalin, Humagne Rouge, Sylvaner, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Savagnin Blanc (aka Heida or Païen)

Production in 2012, 380,000 hectolitres

Main soil types limestone, granite, schist, loess

Quick links:

• My perfect day in the Valais
• Valais: where to stay, eat, shop and relax

The Valais, Switzerland’s southernmost, sunbaked, Alpine canton through which the fledgling Rhône flows, has always been a bit of a law unto itself. In Swiss terms it came late to the Confederation, joining only in 1815 (the core cantons got started in 1291). And although by now fairly firmly woven into the richly textured patchwork that is Switzerland today, it still manages to feel like another world.

Viticulture has deep roots down here. Wine is a way of life, and almost everyone owns and tends a parcel or two of vines. For many of them, known as les vignerons du samedi, grape-growing is just a Saturday hobby. But the past 20 years have seen huge changes, a consolidation of tiny, fragmented holdings and a steady ramping up of quality.

If your thrills in the region have been limited thus far to black runs down to Verbier or Zermatt, and the only Valaisan wine to have passed your lips is a jug of après-ski Fendant, get ready for a different kind of white-knuckle ride.

Chandra Kurt, Zurich-based wine writer and Valais specialist, likens a wine trip here to a treasure hunt: everywhere you go you will unearth growers who are polishing up little-known gems like Petite Arvine, Cornalin, Humagne and Heida and/or giving new lustre to old-established varieties (Chasselas/Fendant is king here) or classic blends like Dôle, an often undistinguished Pinot Noir- Gamay blend.

At the lower end of the valley in Martigny, Gérald Besse (besse.ch) works 18ha of vines from 14 different grape varieties. A good approach is to parkin town and walk the vineyard trail designed by daughter (and winemaker) Sarah, which follows the Besse vineyards along steeply stacked terraces buttressed by an impressive array of dry stone walls. By the time you reach the cellar door, you’ll have some idea of the particular challenges of winemaking around here and be ready to taste a lip-smacking Petite Arvine or a lively Gamay.

Vertiginous vineyards

If you thought the Besse vineyards were steep, then step across to Fully, raise your eyes to the mountain that rears up behind Marie-Thérèse Chappaz’s property (chappaz.ch) and marvel that anyone could ever consider planting and working vines here. The domaine is biodynamic, yields are restricted both by geography and by choice, and the wines – which are measured out by the drop to faithful followers – sell out at a dismaying pace. To be sure of an allocation, try and attend one of the tastings scheduled throughout April and May, informal gatherings around wildflower-decked trestle tables, where Chappaz describes in lyrical language her range of whites and reds, both single varietals and blends.

Heading east up the valley, the cantonal road runs parallel with both the motorway and the silver-greenish-grey ribbon of the Rhône. The show-stopping scenery – dramatic mountain peaks to right and left, many of them topping the 4,000m mark, and wave upon wave of vineyards surfing steeply at their feet – is the same, but the non- motorway option is more leisurely and leads you through some of the Valais’ most celebrated vineyard villages.

Schedule a stop in St-Pierre-de-Clages, where Simon Maye & Fils (simonmaye.ch) have quietly established themselves over decades as one of the region’s premier growers. Always ahead of the curve, they started bottling all their own wine back in the mid-1970s, a rarity in the Valais at the time. Today they make around 20 different wines, ranging from terroir-driven Chasselas to an outstanding, highly prized Syrah Vieilles Vignes.

Almost next door in Chamoson is Didier Joris (didierjoris.ch) and visits to his tiny domaine are by appointment only. This uniquely Valaisan wine personality is a flying winemaker and as likely to be dispensing wine wisdom in Spain as tending his own 3ha of vines here in Switzerland. Regard any visit as a fabulously enriching tasting exercise – with trenchantly expressed views on the world of wine thrown in. Revel in Joris’ remarkable Syrahs and swallow your disappointment if others (notably the country’s top restaurants) have beaten you to the draw.

Dramatic views – and wines

In Flanthey, on the way up to Crans-Montana, Cave La Romaine (cavelaromaine.ch) has just opened a spectacular wine cellar for visitors, a cross between a church, an amphitheatre, a terraced vineyard (the barriques are arranged on various levels) and a grand stage. Upstairs in the state-of- the-art tasting room, you’ll have your work cut out to give proper attention to the wines (the Cornalin and Humagne Rouge grapes are the stars here) on account of the spectacularly distracting views up the valley.

Sierre, at the heart of the Valais, is home to Robert Taramarcaz, one of the new generation of young winemakers who has recently returned to the family fold at Domaine des Muses (domainedesmuses.ch) after spells in Burgundy and New Zealand. His range of thrillingly original wines (whites from the north-facing left bank of the Rhône for maximum freshness, reds from the right bank for maximum ripeness) are prized alike by Swiss wine cognoscenti and by global wine critics.

By the time you reach Visp in the upper reaches of the valley, it’s easy to see why an 1876 British traveller described the region as ‘fearsomely wild’. Here Chanton Weine (chanton.ch) practises extreme wine growing at its most challenging best.

The reputation of this 8ha family winery rests on its tireless championing of rarities like Gwass – described by Dr José Vouillamoz, joint author of the award-winning reference work Wine Grapes, as the ‘Casanova of the vine world’, since, with the help of Pinot (and other varieties), it has spawned almost all the worthwhile wine grapes extant today – as well as the exotically named Lafnetscha, Himbertscha and Rèze. Take a parting sip of its Heida, a prized golden drop grown 800m up on the vertiginous slopes of Visperterminen.

How to get there

During winter, the Eurostar from London links up with the TGV via Lille to serve main stations in the Valais like Martigny, Visp and Brig. Or you can fly to Geneva then go by car or train along Lake Geneva to the Valais.

Written by Sue Style

Next page

From impossibly picturesque and steep vineyards, the wines from this Alpine canton are booming in quality, discovers Sue Style. And are perfect to enjoy with raclette, see our Valais travel guide here - first published in the Decanter January 2014 issue.

My perfect day in the Valais

Morning

After breakfast at Castel de Daval, schedule a visit to star producer Robert Taramarcaz at Domaine des Muses. Afterwards, leave the car at Sierre station, hop on the train (a three-minute journey) to Salgesch and walk back to Sierre along the vineyard trail (about two hours), which finishes up at Oenothèque (wine bar and shop) at Château de Villa where you can taste the best of the Valais.

Lunch

Either grab a bite at Oenothèque, or go for the famous raclette tasting menu at Château de Villa’s cosy, wood-panelled restaurant next door: the raclette meister juggles with five grills and five wheels of alp cheese, each from a different alp, sizzled in turn, scraped (raclé) onto a plate and served with potatoes, pickles and air-dried meats. Or for more creative/modern fare and a stunning wine list, try L’Atelier Gourmand, the brasserie side of Didier de Courten’s upmarket restaurant (near the train station).

Afternoon

Take the road up towards Crans- Montana to Cave la Romaine,a new domaine with an impressive cellar, ambitious wines and superb tasting room with panoramic views to the upper valley.

Evening/overnight

From here it’s about 25 minutes’ drive to Savièse/Chandolin, a dramatically sited south-facing village with views of vineyards and snow- capped peaks high above Sion on the road up to the Col du Sanetsch. Settle down for dinner and overnight at La Grande Maison, once the home of a local family, now converted into a simple but classy B&B.

Next page Previous page

From impossibly picturesque and steep vineyards, the wines from this Alpine canton are booming in quality, discovers Sue Style. And are perfect to enjoy with raclette, see our Valais travel guide here - first published in the Decanter January 2014 issue.

Valais: Where to stay, shop, eat and relax

Hotels

Maya Guesthouse, Nax

Unique, warmly welcoming, eight-bedroom ecohotel on a sunny plateau above Sion, built from straw bales, wood, glass and stone. Dine seated on chairs from recycled wine barrel staves at the huge communal oak refectory table, as the sun sinks behind the Alps across the valley. maya-guesthouse.ch

La Grande Maison, Savièse/ Chandolin

Imposing sunflower-yellow village house built in 1812, and transformed five years ago into a stylish, quirky B&B. Mediterranean- French-Swiss food is served in the atmospheric barrel-vaulted dining room in winter, andon the terrace(s) in summer. lagrandemaison.ch

LeCrans Hotel & Spa, Plans Mayens/Crans-Montana

Understated luxury at this 14-room, chalet-style hotel. Restaurant with stellar wine list, wine bar and a table d’hôte in the kitchen where you can dine while watching chef Pierre Crepaud and his brigade in action. lecrans.com

Castel de Daval, Sierre

Delicious, turreted, red-shuttered B&B in the vineyards above Sierre owned by wine growers Monique and Bertrand Caloz- Evequoz. A glass of house wine is offered on arrival and you can taste the domaine’s full range next door. collinededaval.ch

Restaurants

Les Alpes, Orsières

The wow factor is guaranteed at this outstanding table close to Verbier. Good- looking, big-flavoured food from chef Samuel Destaing, with spotlight on a different Valais producer every month, whose wines are offered by the glass. lesalpes.jimdo.com

Château de Villa, Sierre

Cosy, wood-panelled restaurant inside the 16th-century château serving typical Valaisan specialities (terrific raclette tasting menu and fondue) and a good range of local wines. chateaudevilla.ch

Restaurant Didier de Courten, Sierre

Star chef Didier de Courten combines a gourmet restaurant, the Atelier Gourmand brasserie and L’Ampelos wine bar under one roof at the Hotel Terminus, close to the station. Classy food at every level and excellent wine selection, big on the Valais. hotel-terminus.ch

Shopping

Oenothèque, Sierre

Some 600 wines from 102 different local domaines are offered for sampling and purchase, with wines from four producers showcased each week and available by the glass – a crash course in the Valais’ finest. chateaudevilla.ch

Salon Vinea, Sierre

Every year in early September, Vinea, a Swiss-wide association that stages wine competitions and publishes an annual guide, hosts the Salon des Vins Suisses. This wine fair offers a great opportunity to wander the streets of the old town browsing the full range of Swiss wines. vinea.ch

Marché de la Vieille Ville, Sion

Locavore heaven at Sion’s farmers’ market every Friday morning in the old town, come rain or come shine: vegetables, fruit, raclette and alp cheeses, air-dried meats, sausages, bread baked in portable wood-fired ovens, picnic provisions and take-home treats.

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Stephen Brook reports back from the first UK showing of 'icon' Swiss wine Electus, made by Provins.

Very little Swiss wine is exported, so for most of us it’s an unexplored territory.

As a regular visitor I have been particularly impressed by wines from the Valais, which is rich in indigenous varieties. Now the largest producer in that region, Provins, has created a project to create an ‘icon’ wine from around 4 hectares of the 1000 it owns.

Called Electus, it’s mostly composed of local varieties such as Humagne and Cornalin, the remainder being Bordeaux varieties and Syrah.

Aged entirely in new oak, it’s an ambitious project, and to launch the wine Provins organised a blind tasting of the 2010 vintage in which Electus was sampled alongside eleven prestigious wines such as Léoville-Lascases, Angélus, Cos d’Estournel, Sassicaia, and Ornellaia.

I put the wine in 7th equal place, noting its toasty black-fruits aromas, its sleek texture and ripe tannins, and long balanced finish; but there was a slight lack of depth. When all tasters’ scores were totted up, it emerged in 4th equal place, an honourable result.

The wine is destined for the export market, and – here’s the bad news – the approximate retail price will be around £200 per bottle.

The wine’s quality and the bold pricing may make the impact Provins hope for, but it’s not certain that the wine world is ready for another pricy ‘icon’ brand from a little known country.

Stephen Brook

Written by Stephen Brook

Swiss-born Donald Hess has managed to combine his twin passions for wine and art, acquiring both at a rapid rate

Donald Hess didn’t so much turn water into wine as turn from water to wine. As a young man of 20 he inherited a Swiss brewery and a hotel in Morocco. While retaining those interests for some years, he also developed the mineral water brand Valser Wasser that dominated the Swiss market and made his fortune.

Today, he still owns hotels, but has also acquired seven wineries, notably the Hess Collection in Napa Valley and Peter Lehmann in Barossa, both producing many hundreds of thousands of cases. He seems at ease with himself, a large, trim man in his seventies, still maintaining a punishing schedule.

His first and most lasting venture into the wine business was accidental. ‘Perrier had become very successful in the US, and I wanted to break into that market too. So in the 1970s I visited several mineral springs in the US, but never found anything suitable. While in Napa I tasted some local wines – a Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and Beaulieu’s Georges de Latour Reserve – and was amazed by their quality. So I decided to buy a Californian vineyard. My business managers were horrified, but I spent seven weeks travelling up and down the state, speaking to vineyard workers and managers so I could learn about soils and microclimates. Then, in 1978, I bought 900 acres on Mount Veeder in Napa – though only 20 acres were planted to vines.’

At first, Hess simply wanted to grow and sell grapes, but before long he was producing wines. ‘I looked for premises, and found the old Christian Brothers winery on Mount Veeder. Only after I bought it did I realise how vast the place was. I ended up with far more space than I could possibly use, so I decided to fill the surplus areas with my art collection. It was also a way to attract visitors, who were pretty unlikely to come up to Mount Veeder otherwise.’

The visitors’ centre and art gallery opened in 1989 and, since then, Hess has opened two more galleries to house his collections, at Colomé in Salta, Argentina and Glen Carlou, in Paarl, South Africa. ‘My father had no interest in art, as he always said nature could do a better job. But from the early 1960s I had visited dealers and learned how to appreciate art, and began to collect it, starting with Swiss artists. I have always bought from artists before they became well known. That meant I could buy their work relatively cheaply. Remember that great artists were producing great art when they were young and unknown, too.’

Hess was soon acquiring wineries in other parts of the world. ‘I wanted to produce more than just Cabernet and Chardonnay. So I looked for the ideal places to grow other varieties that I liked. For Semillon and Shiraz that meant Australia, and for Malbec that meant Argentina. The difficulty was that whereas in the past most wines were mediocre and the best stood out, by the 1980s and 1990s good wines were in the majority. That’s positive, but it was difficult for consumers to differentiate. I thought about buying in Mendoza, but realised that while I might eventually make wines as fine as those from Catena and Norton, I doubted I could do better. I was also looking for cooler climates, as I was wary of the heat spikes of California or South Africa that can complicate the maturation process.

‘In Argentina that meant looking at the north. I liked the feel of Salta and Cafayate, and toured the areas for three weeks.

I heard about the old winery from 1831 at Colomé and managed to try some wines from there. They were very concentrated, but a rough diamond. I visited the winery but it wasn’t for sale. Next year I tried again. No deal. So I bought and planted land nearby at Payogasta, at 2,500 metres, then to the north I planted Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir at Altura Maxima – the world’s highest vineyards at 3,100 metres. I bought Colomé in 2001.

‘What attracted me to these high sites was that daytime temperatures never rose above 33˚C, and nights were very cool. At such elevation the grapes develop thick skins and produce high polyphenols. I knew that all this made for a good story, and this got people talking and helped with marketing them.’

New World focus

Colomé is also a biodynamic vineyard. Decades earlier an impoverished artist had refused to sell his work to Hess on the grounds that, as a brewer, he was polluting the earth. Puzzled, Hess persuaded him to expand. ‘We often met to discuss his principles, and that’s what made me aware of the importance of organic practices. I sold my shares in chemical companies and introduced green policies in my own businesses. Colomé is certified biodynamic, Hess Collection in Napa is sustainable, and when Glen Carlou goes into profit, I’ll convert it to organic farming. Peter Lehmann is more difficult, as we buy from 150 growers. But its famous Stonewell Shiraz will be organic.’

Since he had grown up in Switzerland, it seems odd that Hess has never bought vineyards in Europe. But he has come close. ‘I almost bought Château Ausone [in St-Emilion]. [Previous co-owner] Mme Dubois-Challon wanted an assurance that I would change nothing. I said I’d respect the traditions of the estate, but that if I needed to make changes to improve the wine, I would. She wouldn’t sell to me. But what put me off in Europe was that it was very hard to buy more than 50 hectares. Any estates of that size in Europe were prohibitively expensive; land in the New World was far cheaper. Also, California or Australia give more consistent vintages than Europe.’

I wonder how closely involved he is in stylistic and blending decisions at his various wineries. ‘Primarily in thinking about where specific varieties will grow best,’ he says. ‘I look for hot regions where the nights are cool and where, if possible, there is some maritime influence. I’m a great believer in terroir and microclimate, and the last thing I want to do is produce international-style wines. I seek out and employ the smartest young guys I can find to run my wineries and hotels. And Randle Johnson, who was with me from the start as winemaker in Napa, now keeps an eye on many of the other wineries, too, and supervises the blending, though I choose the final blend.’

And how have Napa wines changed in the 30 years he’s been producing there? ‘Mostly in terms of oak,’ he says. ‘In the 1970s and 1980s the wines were far too woody – oak juice, basically. Today wines seem to have less oak, but more fruit and elegance.’

World tours

With wineries on four continents, it’s astonishing he has time to run them, as well as his hotels and art museums. Hess shrugs. ‘I start very early, but always finish by 5pm. Three times a year I do a world tour to visit all my wineries and vineyards, so that gives me more chances to look at art and add to my collection.’

For now, Hess is focusing on adding to his collection of wineries, Argentina’s Bodegas Muñoz being his latest acquisition. Based, like Colomé, in Salta, Muñoz has a less extreme location on the northern outskirts of the region’s wine capital of Cafayate, where it is planted with 20ha of Malbec, Torrontes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Muñoz will be renamed Bodegas Amalaya – after the second label of Colome, which will now be made in the new acquisition’s winery. Another day – another Hess winery.

Written by Stephen Brook

The wines of Valtellina, produced at altitude near the Swiss border, are well worth seeking out for their elegant, perfumed character, says STEPHEN BROOK after a visit to the region.

In 1991 a delegation of growers from Valtellina, an Alpine valley just south of St Moritz and the Swiss frontier, came to London. They presented their wines, which struck me as very good, then went home and were never seen again. This is a shame, since the wines of Valtellina have a unique and very attractive personality. They are planted on south- and east-facing slopes along the 45km width of a valley formed by the exuberant River Adda as it flows towards Lake Como. Orchards line the valley floor, chestnut groves blanket the higher inclines, and vines cover the slopes between 350 and 700m. Summers are hot and the growing season is prolonged, with many growers not harvesting their finest grapes until November or even December. Italian bureaucrats have endeavoured to complicate matters, but there are essentially three groups of wines: basic Valtellina, with a maximum yield of 65 hl/ha (hectolitres per hectare); Valtellina Superiore, from better sites with lower yields; and four sub-zones, widely agreed to produce the best wines – Sassella, Inferno, Grumello and Valgella.

Arturo Pelizzatti Perego believes that Sassella is the best of the lot, but opinions vary. All four are steep, rugged sites with excellent exposure to the sun and Sassella, in particular, resembles a quilt that has been unpicked and reassembled. For some wineries, such as Rainoldi, the top wine is often a Valtellina Superiore aged in new oak, while the traditional Riserva style, which requires long ageing in large neutral casks, is reserved for the Grumello or other subzones. Although there are only 20 producers, there are 2,000 growers and the average holding is a mere 0.3ha. It seems hard to believe, but these smallholdings are divided into 200,000 parcels. However, when you see the vineyards, with their patchwork of tiny terraces, that seems plausible after all. Most of the hobby growers are contracted to sell their grapes to the larger producers, so that wineries such as Negri and Triacca will each buy fruit from over 200 growers. ‘Our main problem,’ says the veteran winemaker Claudio Introini, who now works for the Sertoli Salis estate, ‘is that the average age of proprietors is 65. Their children have no interest in maintaining the vineyards, so the future is uncertain. The youngsters prefer to work in the cities or Switzerland and don’t want to spend their weekends pruning vines. There used to be 3,200ha here two centuries ago. Now we’re down to just over 800.’

The dominant grape variety by far is Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca. Some white wine is also produced, but it’s mostly for local consumption and doesn’t reach great heights. Since Valtellina was ruled by the Swiss canton of Grisons from 1512 to 1797, the traditions of the valley are more Swiss than Italian, and the wines are totally different from, say, the Barolos and Barbarescos of Piedmont.

‘In Piedmont,’ explains Casimiro Maule, who runs the Nino Negri estate, ‘the soils are deep, giving rich powerful wines. Our soils are very thin and our wines are more perfumed, elegant, and lighter-bodied.’ Elegance is certainly the hallmark of the Valtellina wines. Many of the vineyards are around 60 years old, so yields are low, between 30 and 40hl/ha for the top wines, and the wines concentrated. They have the fairly high acidity of many Italian reds and this helps them age easily, although they can also give pleasure in their youth. Moreover, that natural acidity gives them freshness, making them an ideal partner for the rich local food. A great Barolo can overwhelm, even at the table, but Valtellina never fatigues the palate, even though in the best vintages alcohol levels can be quite high. The wines also wear their tannins lightly.

https://www.decanter.com/learn/vintage-guides/piedmont-vintage-guide/

Despite their relative isolation, Valtellina growers are no oenological sluggards. Some, such as Pelizzatti, don’t like barriques, but most do age all or part of their top wines in small French barriques. This can contribute greater complexity and length. Negri’s 1995 Riserva comes in two versions: one aged in large neutral botti (which I prefer), the other in barrique. Nonetheless, the concentration of the top wines allows them to absorb even new oak effortlessly. Negri has been around for over a century, but has not been slow to make vineyard improvements. Traditionally the vines are planted down the slope, but Maule has planted horizontal terraces, allowing limited mechanisation and giving better exposure to sunshine. ‘Our labour costs,’ says Maule, ‘are four times the average for Italian vineyards, but we can’t get the same prices for our wines as our friends in Piedmont, so mechanisation helps us to control our costs.’ Domenico Triacca, the most innovative of the Valtellina growers, agrees, and has converted 13ha of vineyards to horizontal planting. ‘I have doubled the density, which gives more concentrated wines, but at the same time I can reduce the hours required to cultivate one hectare from 1,200 to 700,’ he says. Triacca has pioneered clonal selection in Valtellina, identifying 213 variants of Nebbiolo in his vineyards and whittling them down to four. He also severs the cordons in October, leaving the bunches starved of nutrition, to dry out on the vine for five or six weeks. From these, he makes a wine called Prestigio.

https://www.decanter.com/wine/grape-varieties/nebbiolo/

For most growers (except the wilful Arturo Pelizzatti), the most prized wine is Sfursat or Sforzato. This is a passito wine made, like Amarone in Valpolicella, by laying healthy bunches of grapes in a well-ventilated attic for three months. They are then pressed and vinified, resulting in an intense wine with around 14.5? alcohol. Many top examples, such as Negri’s Cinque Stelle and Rainoldi’s Ca’ Rizzieri, are aged in new barriques. It’s not hard to recommend good Valtellina producers. Negri, of course, for its Riserva, the Grumello Sassorosso, the oaked Sfursat Cinque Stelle, plus the unoaked version. Rainoldi’s wines are effortlessly good, my favourites being the Sfursat and the elegant Crespino. The Sertoli Salis family once supplied the Hapsburgs with wines, but Dr Cesare Sertoli Salis only resumed production in 1989. As well as the Sfursat, the Valtellina Superiore Corte della Meridiana, partly made with dried bunches, is delicious, too. Triacca’s Prestigio is too oaky for me, but the Sfursat and the Riserva are outstanding. Sandro Fay’s normal bottlings are a touch dull, but his top wines, such as the Valgella Ca’ Morei, are excellent. Good, too, are the wines from Nera, its sister label, Caven, and Pelizzatti Perego.

These wines, with their fragrance of cherries, roses and almonds, and their silky textures and sleek flavours, are well worth seeking out, especially since all vintages since 1997 have been very good to excellent. Tasting a delicious 1991 Grumello from Pelizzatti, I scribbled: ‘Smells remarkably like Pinot Noir’. The head of the growers’ association turned to me as I was doing so and murmured, ‘Is like Burgundy, no?’ I showed him the note I had just made and he whooped, for we all know there are few higher compliments than ‘Burgundian’. v Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor.