By the time the Continental Congress formally approved the Declaration of Independence on 4 July 1776, winemaking in North America already had a relatively long and uneven history.

The earliest attempts date back to the early decades of European settlement and involved experiments with native grape species.

Typically characterised by high acidity, lower sugar levels, and distinctive flavour profiles, these native grapes produced wines markedly different from their European counterparts, prompting repeated (and often unsuccessful) attempts to establish plantings of Vitis vinifera imported from the Old World.

One of the most notable of such attempts was undertaken by Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States and passionate wine enthusiast, who planted European grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at his Monticello estate in Virginia.

Despite more than three decades of stubborn experimentation, Jefferson never succeeded in producing a reliable vintage from these vines.

Vitis vinifera’s failures in North America were long attributed to factors such as unfavourable climate, soil conditions, or poor vineyard practices, but a far more significant element at play was likely the presence of phylloxera.

This microscopic root-feeding pest native to North America that would later decimate European vineyards once inadvertently introduced there in the 19th century.

More substantial viticultural progress came with the arrival of Franciscan missionaries in the American southwest, who cultivated the Mission grape, a variety imported from Spain – via Mexico – and later identified as Listán Prieto.

This grape became the foundation of California’s early wine industry, demonstrating the region’s capacity for sustained viticulture.

Indeed, while wine production expanded across the United States, it was California that laid the groundwork for what would become the epicentre of American winemaking, driven in large part by European immigrants bringing both technical expertise and commercial ambition.

Among them were Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian who established Buena Vista in Sonoma in 1857, and German immigrant Charles Krug who founded his namesake winery in Napa Valley in 1861.

Prohibition: Time for a reset

As Europe grappled with the devastation of phylloxera towards the end of the 19th century, the United States was laying the groundwork for a constitutional alcohol ban.

Nationwide prohibition officially began in January 1920. Its impact on American wine was immediate and severe.

Most commercial wineries ceased operations altogether, bringing what had so far been a growing and increasingly ambitious industry to an abrupt halt.

Wine production, however, did not disappear entirely. Wineries such as Beaulieu Vineyard and Beringer were able to survive the dry years by producing sacramental wine for religious institutions.

At the same time, a legal loophole created a parallel informal economy centred around domestic winemaking, particularly in immigrant-heavy urban areas like New York, Chicago, and Boston.

By the time Prohibition was repealed in December 1933, only a small fraction of America’s wineries were still operational.

The industry’s entire commercial infrastructure – vineyards, distribution networks, oenological expertise, and consumer culture – had to be rebuilt almost from scratch.

California Chablis, jug wine and post-Prohibition rebirth

For much of post-Prohibition America, wine was primarily an inexpensive intoxicant, often sweet, and produced in ‘Port’ or ‘Sherry’-style expressions that bore little resemblance to their Old World counterparts.

Yet, beneath these high mass-market volumes, some producers began investing seriously in quality and in the long-term potential of American wine.

One of the most transformative moments came in 1938 with the arrival of Russian-born winemaker André Tchelistcheff at Napa’s Beaulieu Vineyard.

Widely regarded as one of the founding architects of modern Californian wine, Tchelistcheff introduced a new level of scientific rigour and technical precision to viticulture and winemaking, drawing heavily on European high standards while adapting practices to Californian conditions.

Through direct mentorship and broader industry influence, Tchelistcheff helped shape a new generation of winemakers, including figures such as Robert Mondavi, Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich of Grgich Hills, who would play defining roles in the rise of modern American wine.

Robert Mondavi, in particular, proved instrumental in reshaping the narrative surrounding Californian wine.

Rather than relying on (then common) European-inspired names such as ‘California Chablis’ or ‘Napa Burgundy’, he championed varietal labelling, placing grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay front and centre.

Mondavi also promoted wine as part of a broader cultural lifestyle connected to gastronomy, music, art, and conviviality, helping (re)position it as an aspirational product rather than a merely functional one.

By the 1970s, the United States was producing wines capable of competing with the world’s finest.

British wine merchant Steven Spurrier was sufficiently convinced of such progress that, in 1976, he organised a blind tasting in Paris pitting leading Californian wines against some of France’s most prestigious labels.

The outcome of what would become known as the Judgment of Paris stunned the audience, the jury, and the industry as a whole: Californian wines triumphed in both the white and red categories, defeating celebrated Burgundies and Bordeaux.

The tasting marked a watershed moment for American wine, securing its place on the global fine wine map and fundamentally altering international perceptions of what the country was capable of bottling.

Napa Cab and The Critics

In the years that followed this landmark moment, Californian winemaking increasingly shifted towards a style defined by power, ripeness, and opulence, producing wines marked by intense fruit concentration, elevated alcohol levels, deep extraction, and generous use of new French oak.

This evolution was strongly shaped by the rise of influential critic Robert Parker Jr, who tended to favour this bold, ripe stylistic approach, rewarding it with higher marks in his influential 100-point scoring system.

This philosophy gradually spread beyond California, in a phenomenon referred to, sometimes critically, as Parkerisation.

From Bordeaux to Tuscany and Rioja, producers increasingly embraced riper fruit, softer tannins, later harvesting, and more assertive oak regimes.

They often sought input from influential international consultants such as Michel Rolland, in pursuit of the high critic scores they felt could elevate reputation, demand, and revenues almost overnight.

As the 20th century drew to a close, the United States had entered an entirely new phase of its wine history.

No longer a country merely striving to prove its legitimacy to the global wine establishment, it had become one of the principal forces shaping its direction, aesthetics, and economic dynamics.

A multi-layered landscape

Modern American wine is a remarkably nuanced landscape, one that mirrors the equally complex history of the country itself and the multitude of cultures, migrations, and traditions that shaped its social fabric.

California continues to dominate both production volume and the premium sector, but has become far more stylistically diverse than the blockbuster Cabernet stereotype often associated with it.

Powerful Napa Cab still occupies a central place in the state’s identity, yet California today produces an extraordinary range of styles, from refined coastal Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Mediterranean varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Vermentino.

Zinfandel (arguably America’s most emblematic grape) is also being reinterpreted in more nuanced and site-specific ways.

Meanwhile, fellow West Coast states have, over the past few decades, firmly joined the race for quality wine production.

Oregon has established itself as a leading cool-climate region, particularly for elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while Washington State has earned acclaim for structured Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhône varieties, and vibrant Riesling.

On the East Coast, New York’s Finger Lakes region has steadily built a reputation for refined, high-acid, cool-climate wines, particularly Riesling and Cabernet Franc.

Centuries after Thomas Jefferson’s failed experiments, Virginia has also finally found its winemaking identity, acclaimed for Cabernet Franc and Viognier, grapes well suited to the state’s humid continental climate (though producers are successfully working across a wide range of styles and varieties).

Beyond these, quality wine is produced in almost every American state, from the Mediterranean varieties of Texas to the cool, fresh, and unexpectedly refined whites of Michigan.

Across the country, winemakers now express a striking diversity of approaches and philosophies, with an increasing emphasis on regional identity over homogenised stylistic consistency.

The story of American wine may have begun as a matter of trial and – significant – error, but in the span of a semiquincentennial it has morphed into a deliberate, confident, and increasingly self-assured expression of place, as diverse and expansive as the country itself.

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There’s a restless, electric energy in Texas wine right now. From the Hill Country’s rolling vineyards to the wind-swept Texas High Plains, there’s a sense of discovery, grit, and confidence that reminds me of Napa in the 1990s.

The Texas Hill Country recently ranked among the nation’s fastest-growing wine regions in the US.

Texas wines won 295 medals at the 2024 SF Chronicle Wine Competition (second only to California) – and investment in wineries, hospitality, and tourism is booming.

While states like Virginia, Michigan, New York, and Idaho are also growing, Texas’s scale, pace, and rising profile set it apart as the strongest challenger to established US wine regions.

See 14 of the best wines from Texas below. Subscribe to Premium today for full access

A growing wine scene

With eight AVAs currently, three new Texas AVAs – Llano Uplift, Dell Valley, and Hickory Sands – have applications pending with the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), but the bureaucratic process is holding up their approvals.

Essential improvements in labelling laws have helped define what’s in the bottle. Today, any wine labelled with a Texas county, AVA, or single-vineyard designation must be made from 100% Texas-grown grapes.

For would-be producers, the only statewide license currently available is the Texas Winery (G) Permit, which allows a licensee to produce, bottle, and label wine; sell it at the winery; self-distribute within the state; ship directly to Texas consumers; and participate in tastings or events – regardless of whether the wine is made from Texas-grown grapes or imported juice.

Of the 872 active Winery (G) Permits, the Texas Department of Agriculture estimates that there are approximately 500 actual wineries statewide, with booming direct-to-consumer sales, supporting over 136,000 jobs statewide.

Texas produces about 3.28 million gallons (12.4 million litres) of wine annually – just 0.4% of U.S. output – but ranks second nationally in wine’s economic impact at $24.39 billion, thanks to its large population and strong in-state consumption.

Texans consume roughly 62 million gallons (234 million litres) of wine each year, most of which is imported from outside the state; yet, nearly all Texas-made wine is sold within its borders.

Wine tourism saw 2.64 million winery visits in Texas last year – and an estimated $685 million in annual visitor spending.

The Texas Hill Country, centred around Fredericksburg, has emerged as the state’s tourism hub, supported by upscale restaurants, new infrastructure, and a spate of new luxury hotels like the tranquil Albert Hotel, or the forthcoming Waldorf Astoria, and a Kimpton hotel project on the west side of Fredericksburg.

‘We get many visitors from Texas’s major cities, along with travellers from across the country and even abroad, drawn by Fredericksburg’s charming small-town, German vibe,’ says Nikhila Narra Davis, owner of Kalasi Cellars.

John Rivenburgh, owner of Rivenburgh Wine and Kerrville Hills Winery and president of Texas Wine Growers, credits the surge in tourism to major quality gains. ‘If you put brand and region aside, these wines can compete on a larger stage,’ he says, ‘even the most discerning wine consumer would be impressed with what we’re making today.’

Slow and steady

Chris Brundrett, co-founder and CEO of William Chris Wine Company, sees Texas’s wine legacy through the eyes of up-and-coming winemakers.

‘The next generation continues to reach up and grab the next rung on the ladder over and over in terms of farming techniques, winemaking, and DTC (direct-to-consumer) experiences,’ he says.

‘We value quality over quantity,’ says Nikhila Davis, whose Texas High Plains-based Narra Vineyards is a key source for several Hill Country estates.

‘We manage our vineyards to produce outstanding fruit rather than maximise yields.’ (Kalasi was also the first Texas winery to adopt optical sorting technology.)

Robert Clay Vineyards proprietor Dan McLaughlin is among the first Texan wineries to implement an allocation-only approach. He says: ‘We’re not expanding production to chase demand. We’re limiting sales to protect our 100% estate-bottled wines.’

And after 45 years of growing grapes in Texas, Dan Gatlin of Inwood Estates Vineyards believes his work in championing low yields to boost polyphenols will help Texas rival top global bottles.”

The road ahead for Texas wine

Dave Bryant, co-founder of The Texas Wine Auction, throws his support behind, ‘the people who do the work – owner-operator vignerons with heart and soul instead of dollars.’

Bryant is among the state’s biggest optimists. He sees huge growth potential, and while Texas is behind in broad winemaking guidance, that too is changing.

One example of top-tier talent pouring into Texas is Napa winemaker Jean Hoefliger of JH Consulting, whose work with William Chris has been, in Bryant’s words, ‘invaluable.’

He sees Hoefliger’s influence as part of a broader trend – experienced voices helping to shape the next generation of Texas winemakers.

William Chris owner Chris Brundrett has been pivotal in advancing Texas wine, notably bringing in Champagne-trained winemaker Seth Urbanek to elevate their sparkling programme – a category poised for growth in the coming years.

For all the momentum, stronger advocacy is needed in restaurants and wine shops. And as local consumption grows and production meets demand, Texas can develop consistent wholesale programs not only nationwide but also for export markets.

Eyeing global opportunities, Claire Richardson, Uplift winemaker and founder of Explore Oeno, cautions that overemphasising ‘Texas wine’ risks alienating potential drinkers before they can engage with the quality and character of the wines.

‘We need a mindset shift toward positioning Texas confidently alongside other world-class regions,’ she urges.

‘Our greatest challenge,’ says Dan Gatlin, ‘will be to convince our Texas industry to conform to global quality standards instead of common overproduction.’

Quality perspective: 2025 harvest at a glance

The Hill Country experienced good rains after bloom, with moderate temperatures throughout spring and early summer. ‘It’s very rare in this area to have no days over 100 until mid July,’ says William Chris winemaker Tony Offill. Heavy rains in late June and early July led to increased humidity, which impacted spray schedules and picking decisions.

Late ripening varieties like Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon ‘fared far better than mid-season Malbec and Syrah,’ he noted. ‘I expect the wines from 2025 will be similar to 2024 – density and richness, approachable young, capable of gaining complexity if aged.’

Dan Gatlin’s son, Spencer, winemaker for his family’s Inwood Estates Vineyards, is bullish about Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo for both 2024 and 2025 vintages. ‘The quality rivals the best of what we’ve seen in the past,’ he says.

Grape acids ‘held on better, and ripening was a little slower,’ notes Claire Richardson. ‘But some vineyards, like those in Mason, saw thirty inches or more of rain, while other Hill Country sites were completely swept away by the devastating floods in July. Some areas were fortunate to remain untouched.”

Everyone agrees that harvest challenges pale in comparison to the flash floods in central Texas. ‘It’s an event that will always be linked to the 2025 vintage for our community,’ Offill says sombrely.

Rivenburgh, who co-owns a vineyard in Hunt with the Johnson family of Houston, saw it destroyed by Kerr County floods on 3 July 2025. Despite the loss, he remains optimistic: ‘I’ve been fortunate to help many growers and winemakers get their start, planting vineyards that have gone on to produce award-winning wine and embody Texas hospitality.

‘My plan over the next few years is to continue that advocacy and work with our legislature to promote Texas agriculture and the qualities that make Texas-grown wine world-class.’

For Bryant: ‘It’s still the wild west,’ and ‘no one owns the high end or the mass market. Like Napa in the 1990s, Texas is full of big stories, drama, and generational change, and it’s on the cusp of something great.’

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The fourth annual Texas Wine Auction Foundation kicked off its 2025 festivities on 25 April at the newly opened luxury Albert Hotel in downtown Fredericksburg, Texas, with a live taping of the Texas-based television programme Texas Music Scene. The event featured four Texas country music artists in an intimate night of storytelling and songwriting.

It was a distinctly Texan way to saddle up for a weekend dedicated to raising funds in support of charitable causes within the Texas Hill Country winemaking community – one of the fastest-growing wine regions in the United States. Amid a steady influx of luxury resorts and a proliferation of new wineries, the region’s restaurant and hospitality scene is thriving.

Between the Friday night launch and the main auction held on Saturday 26 April at the expansive Arch Ray Resort just outside Fredericksburg, a total of 21 live auction items and 65 silent lots brought in just over $233,000 – the highest amount raised in a single year since the auction was founded in 2022 by partners Dave Bryant, Valerie Elkins and Chris Brundrett. In four years, the auction has raised over $1m.

The top lot featured an experiential trip to Brooks Wine in Oregon and William Chris Vineyards in Hye, Texas – both wineries named on the 2024 Top 100 World’s Best Vineyards list – which sold for $15,000.

A 15-litre blended bottle, crafted by 19 different wineries to benefit student-led education and research initiatives, was produced by William Chris winemaker Tony Offill and consultant winemaker Jean Hoefliger (known for his work with AXR, The Debate and Alpha Omega). The bottle sold for $11,000.

Another highlight included the sale of a half-barrel of wine, which came with a custom blending session, dinner, and personalised labelling through William Chris Vineyards. It also fetched $11,000.

‘The Texas industry has grown significantly over the past five to seven years, and launching the auction was a way for us to collaborate across the wine industry and give back to our community,’ said co-founder Valerie Elkins. ‘Recognising that both our local area and the wider state of Texas lack sufficient mental health resources, we began fundraising to support programmes that offer easier access to care, including individual and group counselling, virtual and in-person educational seminars and mindset coaching aimed at helping individuals achieve both personal and professional goals.’

The Texas Wine Auction Foundation also supports sustainability and industry advancement through initiatives such as Grafted – a personal and professional development programme for women working in wine.

‘Backing these efforts not only strengthens our community but also fosters the growth and success of the industry itself,’ said co-founder Dave Bryant. ‘Our next step is to expand our impact, supporting students at the middle and high school levels through mental health programmes.’

Chris Brundrett, also a co-founder and owner of William Chris Vineyards – considered one of Texas’s most formidable producers – expressed hope for growing attendance in future years. ‘This event offers supporters of Texas wine a forum to celebrate our growers and winemakers, while also introducing many new people to what Texas wine is all about.’

Brundrett and Elkins are also partners in Texas Wine Growers, a non-profit organisation and members of the Wine Origins Alliance. The group is committed to increasing consumer awareness around what constitutes a truly Texas-made wine, supporting those who produce ‘real Texas wine’ made from ‘100% Texas grown’ grapes.

Currently, the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) allows wines labelled as ‘Texas’ to include up to 25% fruit from outside the state, provided that at least 75% of the blend is Texas-grown. By contrast, California and Oregon require 100% in-state fruit for regional labelling; any wine using fruit from multiple states must be labelled ‘American’.

In 2021, the Texas state legislature passed the Texas Wine Labelling Law, intended to clarify and tighten definitions of ‘Texas-made’ wine. The law introduced stricter requirements for wines utilising AVA, county, state, or vineyard designations.

‘We want Texas to be recognised for producing high-quality wines and to be named among the premier wine regions in the United States,’ said Brundrett, who has been a leading voice in the movement to mandate 100% Texas-grown grapes for any wine bearing the Texas label. ‘We talk about this at the auction and will continue to do so because educating the public about what we’re doing in Texas is essential to our continued growth.’

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There’s much more to the Texas panhandle than oil derricks, row crops and windswept landscapes peppered with rolling tumbleweeds, particularly when it comes to wine.

The aptly named 41,214km2 panhandle of Texas was a result of the Compromise of 1850 wherein the state’s disputed land claims were resolved. The region is home to the Texas High Plains AVA.

Of the eight official AVAs in the Lone Star State, the scenic, central Texas Hill Country AVA claims the most attention for wine tourism, with the highest concentration of wineries and tasting rooms. Still, with more than two-thirds of the state’s vineyards, the High Plains is arguably the heart of Texas viticulture.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 10 wines from the Texas High Plains AVA

It’s also considered the birthplace of the modern Texas wine industry. In the late 1960s, researchers from Texas Tech University, Robert Reed and Clinton ‘Doc’ McPherson, planted an experimental vineyard in Lubbock, the region’s primary city.

Its success would later lead to the founding of Llano Estacado Winery in 1976, which remains one of the largest producers in the state. It wasn’t until 1993 that the region would earn official AVA status. Home to more than 80% of the state’s grape output, it is the primary source of fruit for Texas wine producers.

Though the region spans 109,000ha west from Lubbock to the New Mexico border, the High Plains has an estimated 2,000ha under vine. Most vineyards are farmed by long-time agricultural families who have historically grown row crops such as cotton, soy and peanuts – another distinguishing factor for the region.

Many of these farmers grew up never having had a glass of wine. But they knew how to farm. Over the past few decades, severe droughts have pushed many families to seek more drought-tolerant crops. Fortunately, with the rise of Texas winemaking, many producers convinced farmers to begin planting grapes.

‘The majority of the growers in this region come from generational farm families who have worked the fields with hoes in their hands as well as with extremely precise mechanised agriculture for decades,’ says Katy Jane Seaton of the family-owned Farmhouse Vineyards, which manages more than 40ha of vineyards.

‘We’ve taken that knowledge and passion for the land and applied it to wine growing as part of a way to keep future generations in the industry.’

Soils and climate

The region’s unique location is atop the Llano Estacado, a mesa that rises steeply from the northern portion of Hill Country. Spanning more than 60,000km2, the Llano Estacado is one North America’s largest tablelands.

However, the terrain looks flat, with neither a rise or grove of trees for kilometres, the elevations throughout the Llano Estacado range between 900m and 1,400m. By comparison, the Texas Hill Country is 350m to 700m.

Spanish for ‘Staked Plains,’ the area received its name for its vastness. Early 17th-century explorers were often disoriented by its emptiness and would stake the ground to help navigate a straight line.

The landscape is generally flat, arid and desolate, with a perpetual wind that kicks up sandy dust from the alkaline-rich caliche that cover a subsoil high in calcium. The soils are deep with almost universally red, iron-rich sands, sandy and clay loams, and a hard-pan crust of calcium-rich caliche outcroppings throughout.

During the growing season, temperatures swing between more than 37°C during the day and below 15°C at night, affording grapes sufficient cooling for ripening.

While wind and a relatively dry growing season help mitigate disease pressure for vineyards, the most significant challenges include late spring frosts, early fall freezes and the threat of hail from thunderstorms.

Still, the High Plains yields some of the best grapes in the state.

‘In the High Plains, you get the warm Texas sun, but the cooler nights allow the grapes to slow down for ripening. It helps create a different richness in the wines,’ says Ron Yates, who has grown grapes in the Hill Country for over a decade.

Yates also sources many of his grapes from High Plains for his two labels, Ron Yates Winery and Spicewood Vineyards.

The grapes

When McPherson and Reed originally planted their experimental vineyard in 1968, they started with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and a handful of other French varieties. McPherson felt the soils and the growing environment was similar to the warmer areas of Italy.

At the time, Bordeaux and Burgundian varieties were the most marketable in the US. For the next few decades, this is what early Texas producers planted. But it was McPherson’s son, Kim McPherson, who took a strong interest in warm climate varieties from the Rhône Valley.

Others felt Tempranillo and Italian varieties such as Montepulciano, Vermentino, and Aglianico were best suited for Texas. As a result, the past 15 years have seen a proliferation of warm-climate plantings.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and other Bordeaux varieties still have a strong presence. Still, new plantings of these have dwindled in favour of grape varieties from the warmer growing regions of France, Spain, Italy and Portugal. In particular, some of the most promising include Picpoul Blanc, Cinsault, Albariño, Sangiovese and Montepulciano.

‘What’s great about Texas is we have no rules regarding what we can plant, which has allowed us to try new things,’ says Yates. ‘There has been a lot of room for experimentation with different grape varieties and blends. That’s not something you can do in the Old World, but it’s something we’re taking advantage of.’

‘We’re still young in our winemaking history, so we have time to figure out what works best. That makes making wine here so much fun; the sky is the limit.’

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As the fifth-largest wine-producing state in the US, Texas is home to more than 400 wineries and eight designated AVAs. Its wine industry contributes $13bn to the Lone Star State’s economy.

Spanish missionaries are credited with planting the first vines in the 1650s near the modern-day city of El Paso. However, the tourist hub of the rising Texas wine scene is undeniably the charming Texas Hill Country AVA, which sprawls in a loose triangle from Austin to Fredericksburg down to San Antonio.

From upscale tasting rooms to casual dog-friendly stops, featuring panoramic decks overlooking vineyards, live music, homemade pizzas and more, winery day trips promise a little bit of everything all packaged in legendary Texas hospitality.

While Texas Hill Country is the industry’s well-known tourist face, 80% of the state’s grapes (about 1,500ha) are grown in the 3.2 million ha expanse of the High Plains AVA surrounding the west Texas city of Lubbock. Today more than 75 different grape varieties grow in High Plains thanks to its continental climate, significant diurnal shifts and elevations ranging from about 900m to 1200m.

By contrast, scenic Texas Hill Country accounts for 18% of the state’s wine grape production with about 400ha under vine. It is home to the state’s most visited wineries and tasting rooms.

Texas Hill Country: wineries to visit

Duchman Family Winery

Situated about 50km southwest of Austin, Duchman (pronounced ‘Dukeman’) is a family-owned winery committed to producing wines with 100% Texas fruit. It has grown to become one one of the largest producers of 100% Texas wine in the state.

Duchman specialises in Italian varieties like Aglianico, Dolcetto, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Vermentino but Roussanne and Viognier are recent additions to the portfolio, with winemaker Dave Reilly sourcing most of the fruit from the Texas High Plains AVA.

Guests are welcome to enjoy tastings in the impressive Tuscan-inspired winery or at outdoor seating and picnic tables within the gorgeously sprawling 16ha of grounds. Texas hospitality shines bright with plenty of food options to accompany the various wine tasting formats, from homemade pizzas and charcuterie boards to truffle and parmesan fries.

• Wine to try: The bright, supple lines of the 2019 Viognier or the nimble elegance of the recently released 2016 Aglianico.
• Address: 11308 FM150 West, Driftwood, TX 78619
• Open: Monday 12pm-6pm, Friday & Saturday 12pm-8pm; all other days 12pm-7pm
• Contact: Call (512) 858 1470 or email info@duchmanwines.com for reservations (walk-ins welcome on weekdays).

Spicewood Vineyards

Decidedly dog-friendly, Spicewood Vineyards offers high hospitality with a super chill vibe. A 35-minute drive from Austin, the winery – boasting 13ha of beautiful grounds including estate vines, outdoor patio seating and event centre options – is family-owned and run by Ron Yates.

Working with a dozen grape varieties, Yates creates everything from a Grenache-based Pét Nat and estate-grown sparkling Semillon, to a gutsy GSM blend and structured Syrah. But it is Spicewood’s Tempranillo that is a showstopper. After time in Spain, Yates returned with an appreciation of what it takes to grow great Tempranillo, and believed Texas Hill Country was more than capable.

A former musician and lawyer, Yates is hands-on in all aspects of the business – he might even be the one serving in the tasting room. Spicewood showcases two tasting options of six wines each: $15 for the regular tasting or $30 for all-estate wines. Charcuterie boards are available, or visitors can bring a picnic from nearby Opie’s BBQ (see below).

• Wine to try: The velvety-textured 2017 Estate Tempranillo or the 2017 Battle of Toro, a bold blend of Tempranillo with Touriga Nacional.
• Address: 1419 Burnet County Road 409, Spicewood, TX 78669
• Open: Daily 11am-6pm
• Contact: Call (830) 693-5328. Reservations not required, but please give advance notice of parties of four or more.

Pedernales Cellars

Established in 2006 by Texan siblings Julie and David Kuhlken, Pedernales Cellars was a natural offshoot from the family’s Kuhlken Vineyards, planted in 1995. David is the winemaker and Julie runs the operations, marketing and tasting room. They have about 7ha of estate vineyards and source 75% of their fruit from the Texas High Plains AVA.

Located off Highway 290, just 20 minutes’ drive southeast of Fredericksburg, Pedernales offers panoramic hill country views and exceptional tasting and tour opportunities for day trippers. Visit the winery and cellar and try some barrel samples ($60) or make an appointment for the reserve tasting ($35), which highlights the winery’s reds – including a selection of limited library wines and exclusive wine club offerings.

Tempranillo is the heart of the Pedernales Cellars’ wine program, with vivid appearances in single-varietal bottlings to red blends as well as Port-style fortified wines.

• Wine to try: The 2018 Tempranillo Reserve, a gutsy blend of Hill Country and High Plains fruit. Or the vibrantly rich 2018 Viognier.
• Address: 2916 Upper Albert Rd, Stonewall, TX 78671
• Open: Monday to Thursday 10am-5pm, Friday & Saturday 10am- 6pm; Sunday 12pm-5pm
• Contact: Reservations required on Saturdays via the online booking form.

Bending Branch Winery

Bending Branch is the Tannat house of Texas. This red variety, normally seen in Uruguay and Madiran in Southwest France, is created in multiple styles here, from still and sparkling rosé to various blends and single-vineyard Tannats.

With a keen interest in the health benefits of red wine, physician-turned-winemaker Robert Young founded Bending Branch in 2007. Young focused on Tannat as his signature grape, thanks in part to its high levels of phenolic compounds like procyanidins, shown to contribute to cardiovascular health.

Young uses cryomaceration to increase tannin levels as well as thermovinification to remove pyrazines and extract phenolic compounds, while also reducing fermentation times to five days instead of the traditional 10 to 15 days. The result is a Tannat of great density, body and robust fruit character plus well-integrated tannins.

• Wine to try: The 2018 Tallent Vineyards Tannat for its tight-knit tannins and ripe black fruit character wrapped in peppery spice.
• Address: 142 Lindner Branch Trail, Comfort, TX 78013
• Open: Daily 12pm-6pm
• Contact: Call (830) 995-2948 or email info@bendingbranchwinery.com for reservations.

William Chris Vineyards

William Chris is an elegant and hospitable family-owned winery established on an historic pioneer farm settlement in the town of Hye. It offers a diverse portfolio of wines all made with 100% Texas-grown fruit, including red Bordeaux and Rhône varieties plus Tempranillo and Sangiovese, as well as Roussanne and Marsanne.

Visitors can experience older library wines in the luxurious Members Tasting Room, or enjoy wines al fresco under the cosy covered pavilion just steps away from the vineyards. Weekdays draw fewer crowds and more reservation options, but you’ll need to book well in advance to enjoy weekend tastings and their hallmark live music sessions.

The food-pairing options at William Chris are top notch too, boasting everything from gourmet picnics, snack plates and delectable charcuterie boards to seasonal culinary creations.

• Wine to try: The 2018 Bingham Vineyards Mourvèdre for its full-bodied aromas and flavours of spice, ripe cherry and dark chocolate.
• Address: 10352 US Highway 290, Hye, TX 78635
• Open: Sunday to Wednesday 11am-5pm, Thursday to Saturday 10am-6pm
• Contact: Reservations required via (830) 998 7654 or info@williamchriswines.com

Texas Hill Country: where to eat and drink

Texas is home to a booming food, wine and craft beer scene. In addition to ample culinary options at Duchman and William Chris wineries (see above), there are plenty of chef-driven ventures along the Hill Country wine trails.

Cabernet Grill

Tucked into the Cotton Gin Village B&B, this Fredericksburg favourite showcases an all-Texas wine list with more than 40 producers represented by 190 wines. The engaging menu is locally inspired too, with classic Angus beef alongside Texas Gulf Shrimp and quail as well as fried Castelvetrano olives, cheesy grits and Mexican street corn.

• Address: Cotton Gin Village, 2805 South State Highway 16, Fredericksburg, TX 78624
• Open: Tuesday to Thursday 5pm-8:30pm, Friday & Saturday 5pm-9pm

Hill & Vine

A must-stop on the Hill Country wine trail, this charming, eclectic venue focuses on Texas wines, beers and ciders. Serving happy hour drinks, Hill & Vine’s retro VW bus – Das Bar Bus – pays tribute to Fredericksburg’s German influences, and the spacious outdoor seating welcomes live music on weekends. Across the street is Hill & Vine’s Sunday Supply – a quick stop for fantastic coffee, freshly baked pastries and light lunches of salads and sandwiches to go.

• Address: 210 South Adams St, Fredericksburg, TX 78624
• Open: Monday to Friday 11am-9pm; Saturday & Sunday brunch 9am-3pm, Saturday dinner 4pm-9pm

Opie’s BBQ

From the big metal barn-like building, welcoming wisps of mesquite-spiced smoke and the sprawling pit cookers, Opie’s is exactly what you picture an authentic Texas Barbecue joint to be. A stop at Opie’s requires some serious choices. Will it be a tub of tater tot casserole, traditional pinto beans and onions, spicy creamed corn, turkey breast, smoked brisket or maybe sweet and spicy baby back ribs? Or will you brace yourself for the unforgettable heat-meets-sweet jalapeno cheese sausage served with a side of bacon-seasoned green beans? The options are endless and the food is divine.

• Address: 9504 East State Highway 71, Spicewood, TX 78669
• Open: Monday to Thursday 11am-4pm, Friday to Sunday 11am-7pm

Tillie’s

Tucked into the Camp Lucy luxury resort in Dripping Springs, Tillie’s teams with innovative, seasonally inspired dishes. Both indoor and outdoor seating options bring plenty of beauty and historic intrigue: owners Whit and Kim Hanks have adorned the restaurant and resort accommodations with antiques from France, Vietnam, Ecuador among others. Perhaps the most remarkable being an exquisite, reconstructed Vietnamese town hall building that serves as the frame for Tillie’s private dining room, Mr Kiem’s. Recent menu highlights include spicy roasted brussels sprouts, shrimp and grits and cowboy ribeye.

• Address: Camp Lucy, 3509 Creek Rd, Dripping Springs, TX 78620
• Open: Wednesday to Sunday 5pm-9pm

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Texas is the second largest US state. For perspective, it’s about 20% larger than France, and has roughly 200 wineries and eight official AVAs (Bell Mountain, Escondido Valley, Fredericksburg, Mesilla Valley, Texas Davis Mountains, Texas High Plains, Texas Hill Country and Texoma).

See also: travel guides for Idaho, Colorado, North Carolina and Michigan

Despite its impressive size, winemaking is chiefly concentrated in two distinct areas: Texas Hill Country and High Plains. Most of the state’s grapes are cultivated in High Plains, while most of the tourism and consumption takes place in Texas Hill Country.

Spend a minute in the High Plains AVA and you’ll appreciate why – dominated by semi-arid, windy conditions, it’s a high-elevation, vastly flat region of roughly 3.2m hectares in west Texas.

Andrew Sides, winemaker for Lost Draw Cellars, describes it as ‘ideal for winemaking but not for the faint of heart’. The area has rich, sandy loam soils – primarily ancient seabed, underneath which is a deep limestone bed that imparts an intriguing minerality to the wines.

The High Plains may be the state’s primary growing region, but it’s the scenic charms of Texas Hill Country that draw the crowds.

The climate here is more moderate, and the soils are more on a granite uplift. Concentrated around the town of Fredericksburg (which is equidistant from San Antonio and Austin), Hill Country enjoys a lingering Germanic influence as many Germans settled here in the mid-1800s.

It is also the home of former president Lyndon Johnson and known for its profusion of bluebonnet wildflowers in the spring.

Warmer-climate varieties such as Viognier and Tempranillo thrive in both High Plains and Hill Country. You’ll also find Sangiovese, Roussanne, Mourvèdre and some Tannat.

Where to visit

At William Chris Vineyards, 32km east of Fredericksburg, a glass-walled tasting room looks out over the vineyards. Order a picnic lunch if you want to enjoy wines al fresco, or consider a seat inside for the Library Tasting experience that features an in-depth look at the range and breadth of its terroirs and vintages.

The Signature Series of wines at Pedernales Cellars, back towards Fredericksburg, features delicious single-barrel expressions, best enjoyed in the tasting room with views over the Pedernales river valley.

Becker Vineyards has a long history of winemaking in Hill Country (former first lady Ladybird Johnson was a fan of its Chardonnay). Book a tour and reserve library tasting paired with cheeses for the best experience, and if you visit in the spring you’ll enjoy the full bloom of its fields of wildflowers and lavender plants.

Another worthy stop is at Bingham Family Vineyards. It scooped five awards at the 2021 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition – including gold for its Dugout 2018 Bordeaux blend.

The charming courtyard at Lost Draw Cellars in Fredericksburg is a big draw for live music at weekends, and a glass or two of its Reserve Roussanne (2018). Book a wine and charcuterie tasting if you want some light bites.

Texas wine travel guide: where to stay & eat

The universal favourite for overnight stays is Hoffman Haus, a luxury bed-and-breakfast well situated in the heart of Hill Country.

Outlot 201 Guest Houses, an 8km drive from Fredericksburg’s historic Main Street, offers three guest houses designed in keeping with the area’s traditional ‘Sunday Haus’ style homes. Each one has a pantry stocked with homemade banana bread, fresh fruit and drinks.

For a boutique hotel experience, the Trueheart Hotel offers 13 rooms furnished in a colourful and playful style. Or for something quirkier, consider the adults-only 1940s aviation-centric Hangar Hotel.

You’ll have your pick of places to eat and drink in Fredericksburg, but a dish of goose and truffle ravioli with mixed farm greens, wine reduction sauce and pecans at Otto’s German Bistro tops the list for a dose of the region’s Hessian history.

Cabernet Grill is popular with locals, and has one of the largest selections of Texas wines in the state – a great place to taste options not on the Hill Country tasting trail.

Stacy Slinkard’s top 10 Texas wines:

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Seek out Austin's top wine bars on your next trip to Texas, thanks to Ray Isle, Decanter.com stateside expert and current executive wine editor of Food & Wine.

Wine Belly

Off-beat and appealingly priced choices (Carignane from CA up-and-comer Broc Cellars for $48) are balanced with more familiar names (Vieux Telegraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape for $68, a steal) at this south Austin tapas-and-wine destination. The food nods to Spain but borrows from everywhere (the not-exactly-Iberian chicken liver mousse is a must-get), the vibe is Austin laid-back-cool, even down to the grace notes on the menu (“Buy the Kitchen a Beer — $1”), and on Sundays and Mondays a selection of bottles are offered at half-price.

Austinwinebelly.com; 519 W Oltorf St., Austin, TX 78704, 512-487-1569

June’s All Day

Master Sommelier June Rodil oversees wine for the entire McGuire Moorman restaurant group, but her eponymous new wine bar on South Congress Avenue, June’s, probably qualifies as the venue closest to her heart. June’s list is basically a frequently changing snapshot of its namesake’s favorite pours—recently choices included Austrian star Roland Moric’s Supernatural Hausmarke white, an unlikely blend of Grüner, Chardonnay, and Riesling and sommelier fave Hervé Souhaut’s fragrant Ardeche Gamay. The menu is a happy hodge-podge of influences; particularly good are the bone marrow Bolognese on house-made tajarin and the crunchy, irresistible fried chicken sandwich.

Junesallday.com; 1722 South Congress, 512-416-1722

Bufalina

Is Bufalina a pizza joint? A wine bar? Ask any wine pro in town and they’ll probably say the latter—at the very least they all tend to congregate at this East Austin destination to drink up the primarily French and Italian selections on the surprisingly deep list. Pizza places don’t tend to offer cult champagnes like Jacques Selosse’s Grand Cru, Blanc de blancs, initial or multiple vintages of Allemand Cornas, but don’t tell that to owner Steven Dilley, who goes right on putting them on his list. Nor does it hurt that Bufalina’s pizzas are fantastic, too.

Bufalinapizza.com; 1519 E Cesar Chavez Street, Austin, TX 78702

Lenoir Wine Garden

The backyard “wine garden” at Lenoir doesn’t have the deepest list in Austin by any means—it’s actually quite short, with only two choices each for sparkling, white, rosé and red. But it’s impeccably chosen, changes frequently, and the pleasure of sitting outside on a nice night under the spreading live oaks is inarguable. Order some crunchy cornmeal hush puppies or a few of the daily tacos (goat with roasted tomato salsa, recently), a bottle of Aglianico from California vineyard guru Steve Matthiasson, settle in at one of the long picnic tables, start talking to your neighbor—that’s about as Austin as it gets.

Lenoirrestaurant.com; 1807 South First, Austin

Wink Wine Bar

Whether you consider this petite space a waiting area for the acclaimed restaurant Wink next door, or a no-reservations, stand-alone destination, either way Wink’s casual bar is one of the best places for wine lovers in Austin. One reason: over 50 different by-the-glass selections at all times, ranging from familiar names like Greg La Follette’s sleek North Coast California Chardonnay to esoterica such as a 2013 Vino z Czech Riesling from Moravia ($11 a glass). Conveniently, the restaurant’s regular menu—from small dishes like Hamachi sashimi with breakfast radishes to entrees such as rabbit risotto with kohlrabi greens and shiitakes—is also available in the bar.

Winkrestaurant.com; 1014 North Lamar Blvd. Ste. E, Austin, TX 78703

The Driskill Bar

The Driskill Bar isn’t technically a wine bar, but it is the most storied (and certainly one of the most beautiful) places to get a glass of wine in Austin. Located on the mezzanine floor of the Driskill Hotel downtown—built in 1886 by a cattle baron, who eventually lost ownership of the place in a poker game—the look is elegantly, classically Texas. Think cowhide couches, lots of dark wood, pressed tin ceiling, imposing longhorn steer head above the fireplace, and no lack of customers in cowboy boots. But the key aspect for wine lovers is that if you ask (and if you don’t feel like drinking a Driskill Julep) you can order wine off the more formal Driskill Grill’s extensive list. It leans traditional, with plenty of Bordeaux and Burgundy, and also great choices like Bodegas Muga’s 2005 Prado Enea Gran Reserva for $142 and Andrew Will’s Two Blondes Vineyard red blend for $164. Or bring a group and go big on a magnum of ’01 Chave Hermitage for $850. You’re in Texas, after all.

driskillhotel.com; 604 Brazos St, Austin, TX 78701

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More than 500 counterfeits of the some of the world's finest wines have been crushed at a Texas waste disposal site almost exactly two years after their maker, Rudy Kurniawan, was convicted of wine fraud in a US court. See photos of the destruction below.

A Container of smashed bottles bearing some of the wine world’s most renowned names, including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Château Pétrus, was all that remained of more than 500 of the Rudy Kurniawan counterfeit wines destroyed by US Marshals late last week.

It is almost two years to the day since Kurniawan was convicted of making and selling copycat versions of fine and rare wines, as well as of fraudulently attempting to obtain a $3m loan.

He produced counterfeit wines at his Los Angeles for several years in an elaborate operation that involved concocting blends in his kitchen sink and printing off fake labels on his computer.

See photos below of several Kurniawan wines being destroyed.

At the demolition in Texas, bottles of counterfeit wine were lined up to be crushed by a crane.

After being pulverised, glass will go to be recycled, while the liquid contents of the bottles is set to be used as compost, US Marshals said.

Around 5,000 bottles authenticated as genuine and found in Kurniawan’s private cellar were this month being auctioned by US Marshals.

‘Every thing that’s being destroyed here today has been deemed either counterfeit, that it was part of his scheme, or that had no sale value,’ said Jason Martinez, assistant program manager for the US Marshals Asset Forfeiture Division. His comments were reported on Kvue.com in an article cited by US Marshals on its own website.

At the time of Kurniawan’s conviction, it was believed that some of his counterfeit wine remained unaccounted for.

In mid-2014, he was sentenced to 10 years in prison and ordered to re-pay $28.4m to victims. His lawyers have continued to appeal against the conviction and argued that their client was penniless.

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Only one person out of 70 Master Sommelier candidates from around the United States passed the most recent exam that took place last week in Dallas, Texas.

Iowa native Nick Hetzel who is currently the sommelier for Sage at Aria Resort and Casino in Las Vegas was the only applicant to achieve the prestigious MS title.

The result has raised concerns that, in light of the recent attention the Court of Master Sommeliers has received as a result of the movie ‘Somm’ and the tests’ rising popularity, it has become increasingly difficult to pass.

Kenny Koda, who has taken the exam every year since 2006, noticed what he calls, a ‘change in regimen’.

Speaking to Decanter.com, Koda said: ‘There used to be a bank of questions, and as those got passed around the test became predictable.’

Now, he says ‘candidates are expected to show that they can not only memorise things but explain why the wines from certain regions taste the way they do.’

Koda, who sells wine for a high-end producer in Napa Valley, added ‘it’s harder for guys like me who aren’t working the floor.’

Shayn Bjornholm, the examination director for the American chapter of the Court said; ‘Certainly, it is getting more and more difficult, but not because we are trying to make it more difficult.’

Bjornholm points to a combination of a rapidly evolving wine world and more — and younger —experts than ever before; adding; ‘We have the same standards but the whole world is blowing up.’

Dozens of Master Sommeliers, many who are running wine programs and visiting wine regions, are involved with writing the exams, which in Bjornholm’s assessment, keeps the test ‘fresh, relevant’ and ‘grounded in what is important.’ He says the recent failure of all but one examinee has given the Court ‘no pause whatsoever.’

‘We think the questions are fair. They are difficult, but we are happy with the level of difficulty we have established.’

Rachael Lowe, a 34-year-old Wine Director for two restaurants in Chicago, whose failed attempt in Dallas was her third since 2011, agrees, calling it difficult but fair.

‘It’s stuff you should know. It’s pretty well rounded’, she said.

The pass rate fluctuates year to year, hovering around 10% between 2001 and 2013. In 2005, 26% of candidates passed, but in 2010, only 3 passed out of 84, rivaling the poor performance in Dallas for a 10-year low.

In the four decades since the first exam, 202 candidates have earned the burgundy pin of the Master Sommelier.

Written by Courtney Humiston

A new study released this week by researchers at the University of Texas suggests that areas suitable for viticulture will decrease between 25% and 73% in major wine producing regions by 2050 – directly impacting countless fine wine regions across the globe.

The study, published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, is the first to combine impact of global warming on wine regions with wider environmental concerns – through things such as increased irrigation creating potential freshwater conservation issues.

‘Vineyards have long-lasting effects on habitat quality and may significantly impact freshwater resources,’ reads the study, going on to look at potential impact using 17 climate models to estimate changes in suitability for viticulture.

By 2050, the study suggests that suitable grape growing areas in Mediterranean Europe could drop by 68%, and in parts of Australia by 73%. Existing premium wine-growing regions in Chile – Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua – will be equally hard hit as the strain on the water resources in the country is already high, with 95% of the area currently used for vine growing already under water stress, the highest of any of the Mediterranean-climate wine-growing region. Maipo Valley is expected to see 20% less rainfall by 2050. New Zealand’s suitable area, in contrast, will more than double by 2050, as will parts of northern Europe.

In North America, areas due to become more suitable for wine growing include existing national parks such as Yellowstone, or Yukon Territory in Canada, leading to potential conservation issues. Equally in China, some of the land likely to become most suitable for high-quality viticulture over the next few decades is currently in the same mountains that provide habitat for the giant panda. ‘Future conservation efforts need to incorporate consideration of viticulture,’ say the study’s authors.

The study also looks at suggested adaptation measures such as vine orientation and trellising practices that can greatly reduce water demands. Philippe Bascaules, director at Francis Ford Coppola’s Inglenook in Napa has been looking into various canopy management programmes to lower the sugar levels in the grapes. In 2012 he also held off irrigating until the end of growing season rather than the more usual period of July. ‘Long-term irrigation is not sustainable, and ideally we would like to stop it altogether. But so far we have found that smaller amounts of water at the end of the season helped keep the grapes from over-concentrating and so meant lower alcohol in the final wine’, Bascaules told Decanter.com. ‘It’s an experiment right now, seeing which parameters work best’.

Written by Jane Anson